Messages in AquaticLife group. Page 1 of 1.

Group: AquaticLife Message: 16194 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Please Help!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16195 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16196 From: harry perry Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!/Ken
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16197 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16198 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16199 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16200 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16201 From: Patrick Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16202 From: Patrick Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16203 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16204 From: shailendra Indulkar Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Artificial sea water : m rosenbergii hatchery
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16205 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: Artificial sea water : m rosenbergii hatchery
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16206 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16207 From: wendie Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16208 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16209 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16210 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16211 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16212 From: Russell Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: my goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16213 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/3/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16214 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/3/2006
Subject: Re: my goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16215 From: Treston Tyrues Date: 1/3/2006
Subject: Re: my goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16216 From: Subodh Chand Date: 1/3/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1082
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16217 From: amit mhamane Date: 1/4/2006
Subject: Re: Happy New Year
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16219 From: Karen Date: 1/4/2006
Subject: New to group, brackish aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16220 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/4/2006
Subject: Re: New to group, brackish aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16221 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16222 From: paul helms Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16223 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16224 From: Chris Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: New to group, brackish aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16225 From: Chris Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16226 From: Chris Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: New to group, brackish aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16227 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: New to group, brackish aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16228 From: Karen Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Brackish Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16229 From: KttmfC Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Saltwater fish only
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16231 From: Tara Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16233 From: Patrick Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16234 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16235 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: What IS 0EM Software And Why D0 You Care?/Luis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16236 From: Laura Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16237 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16238 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16239 From: Patrick Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16240 From: Laura Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16241 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16242 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16243 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16244 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16245 From: Evita Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16246 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16247 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16248 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/7/2006
Subject: Re: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16249 From: rosette55@webtv.net Date: 1/7/2006
Subject: Re: Chysicthys Aratus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16250 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/7/2006
Subject: Re: Chysicthys Aratus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16251 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/7/2006
Subject: Re: Chysicthys Aratus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16252 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 1/8/2006
Subject: Angel tank mates?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16253 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/8/2006
Subject: Re: Angel tank mates?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16254 From: KttmfC Date: 1/8/2006
Subject: trying again...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16255 From: Kevin Date: 1/8/2006
Subject: Re: trying again...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16256 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16257 From: Karen Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16258 From: Ivan White (Aqua-Hobbyist) Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16259 From: Karen Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16260 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Molly question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16261 From: John Gonzalez Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16262 From: wendie Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: Molly question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16263 From: wendie Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16264 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: Molly question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16265 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16266 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16267 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: Molly question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16268 From: Ivan White (Aqua-Hobbyist) Date: 1/10/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16269 From: RUFUS BARR Date: 1/10/2006
Subject: Seagrass seeds
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16270 From: Sean McQuilken Date: 1/10/2006
Subject: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16271 From: DiOhio Date: 1/10/2006
Subject: strange Clown Knife behavior question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16272 From: Karen Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16273 From: Patrick Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16274 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16275 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Angelfish needs help! Urgent!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16276 From: muskie4817 Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Swordtail problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16277 From: tydrake Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish needs help! Urgent!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16278 From: mariuxi0212 Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: wanted: mr. krabs aqua figure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16279 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: My Angelfish is gone. (Was Re: Angelfish needs help! Urgent!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16280 From: Karen Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Cycling the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16281 From: Justin M. Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16282 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16283 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Fish Identity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16284 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16285 From: wendie Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16286 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Identity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16287 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Identity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16288 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16289 From: Pat Jellison Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16290 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Identity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16291 From: wantvws Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16292 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Inside Filter 4 W, 500 liters per hour, Altmann, if I recall it cor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16293 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16294 From: scott johnston Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16295 From: wendie Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16296 From: wantvws Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16297 From: harry perry Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: question/Wendie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16298 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Identity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16299 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16300 From: wantvws Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16301 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16302 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Aquarium Canopy Info Desired
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16303 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Canopy Info Desired
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16304 From: harry perry Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Canopy Info Desired/L & D Moore
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16305 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16306 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Fish Caught in Net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16307 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Caught in Net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16308 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Caught in Net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16309 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Caught in Net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16310 From: wantvws Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Canopy Info Desired
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16311 From: John Hawley Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Winter Fish Kill at Arboretum Won’t Chill Spirit
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16312 From: Karen Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Water purification/Thanks for the input
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16313 From: Andreas Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Water purification/Thanks for the input
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16314 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Water purification/Thanks for the input
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16315 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Winter Fish Kill at Arboretum Won’t Chill Spiri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16316 From: DiOhio Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Winter Fish Kill at Arboretum Won’t Chill
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16317 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Winter Fish Ki ll at Arboretum Won’t Chill
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16318 From: DiOhio Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Winter Fish Ki ll at Arboretum Wonââ,¬â"¢t
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16319 From: harry perry Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: Winter Fish Ki ll /frozen ponds.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16320 From: DiOhio Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: Winter Fish Ki ll /frozen ponds.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16321 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: Winter Fish Ki ll /frozen ponds.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16322 From: tydrake Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16323 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16324 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16325 From: scott johnston Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: small bottom feeders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16326 From: harry perry Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders/Scott
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16327 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16328 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16329 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16330 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16331 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders/Scott
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16332 From: Ivan White (Aqua-Hobbyist) Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders/Scott
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16333 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16334 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16335 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16336 From: Kevin Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16337 From: tydrake Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16338 From: Patrick Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16339 From: Patrick Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16340 From: Patrick Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16341 From: tydrake Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16342 From: tydrake Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16343 From: tydrake Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16344 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16345 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16346 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16347 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16348 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16349 From: Patrick Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: puffer problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16350 From: Cydne Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Water fleas or Daphnia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16351 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: necessary or ideal thickness of glassplates that serve to build an
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16352 From: tydrake Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Weird parasite
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16353 From: Tiger Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Hi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16354 From: Tiger Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: thank you
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16355 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Inside Filter 4 W, 500 liters per hour, Altmann, if I recall it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16356 From: historyfan92 Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16357 From: Steve Sears Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16358 From: ljns27 Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Wanted: Breeders or Infor on the Christmas Fulu
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16359 From: mur57891@aol.com Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16360 From: flecker69 Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16361 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Weird parasite
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16362 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16363 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16364 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Wanted: Breeders or Infor on the Christmas Fulu
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16365 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: necessary or ideal thickness of glassplates that serve to build
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16366 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16367 From: Ivan White (Aqua-Hobbyist) Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16368 From: Treston Tyrues Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16369 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16370 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Weird parasite
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16371 From: Patrick Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16372 From: red-eye Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16374 From: Patrick Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16376 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16377 From: Amalthea X Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16378 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: necessary or ideal thickness of glassplates that serve to build
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16379 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Thanks, I found the calculator
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16380 From: aclaar877 Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Red Temple Help--Discus Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16381 From: Andreas Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Monocirrhus polyacanthus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16382 From: deborahgd14 Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16383 From: tydrake Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Need some help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16384 From: Julie Roughley Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16385 From: rosette55@webtv.net Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: plastic plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16386 From: kristopher helsing Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16387 From: kristopher helsing Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Need some help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16388 From: wantvws Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Filters?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16389 From: Laura Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16390 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Red Temple Help--Discus Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16391 From: tydrake Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Need some help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16392 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Filters?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16393 From: Laura Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16394 From: Cydne Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Sorry!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16396 From: Patrick Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sorry!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16397 From: Patrick Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16398 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16399 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16400 From: red-eye Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16401 From: George Kawalauskas Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16402 From: deborahgd14 Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16403 From: deborahgd14 Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16404 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16405 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16406 From: harry perry Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Red Ludwigia/ An unfortunate situation./ A moderator's view.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16407 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: OT: Rules of Behavior
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16408 From: Patrick Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: OT: Rules of Behavior
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16409 From: Kevin Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Gouramis, Plants, & Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16410 From: Ty Drake Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: Gouramis, Plants, & Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16412 From: Karen Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Going Broke
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16413 From: Joe Golesh Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: Filters?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16414 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16415 From: fish_guru2001 Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: hello fish friends,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16416 From: wantvws Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: Filters?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16417 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: Going Broke
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16418 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Acriflavine and waterplant death and Guppy Infertility
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16419 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Re: Gouramis, Plants, & Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16420 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: CO2 - Fertilizer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16421 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Whale in Thames - London
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16422 From: harry perry Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Re: CO2 - Fertilizer/Thomas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16423 From: lowjack989 Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: driftwood selection help need
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16424 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Re: driftwood selection help need
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16425 From: Deirdre Marr Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Loss of Feather Duster Head?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16426 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/22/2006
Subject: Re: driftwood selection help need
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16427 From: Rob Dobson Date: 1/22/2006
Subject: Introduction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16428 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/22/2006
Subject: Tetra's Swimming Tilted to the Side
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16429 From: hank voss Date: 1/22/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra's Swimming Tilted to the Side
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16430 From: A J Myers Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: driftwood selection help need
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16431 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Danios are coldwater fish??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16432 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: Danios are coldwater fish??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16433 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: Danios are coldwater fish??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16434 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: Danios are coldwater fish??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16435 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra's Swimming Tilted to the Side
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16436 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: driftwood selection help need
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16437 From: lowjack989 Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: driftwood contiued
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16438 From: feather2night867 Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Newbie saying Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16439 From: lowjack989 Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: amazon sword plant in dire straits
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16440 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/24/2006
Subject: Re: amazon sword plant in dire straits
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16441 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 1/24/2006
Subject: Re: Danios are coldwater fish??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16442 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/24/2006
Subject: Re: amazon sword plant in dire straits
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16443 From: fishyfishy95 Date: 1/25/2006
Subject: Adopted a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16444 From: kristopher helsing Date: 1/25/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16445 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/25/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16446 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/25/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16447 From: Treston Tyrues Date: 1/25/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16448 From: fishyfishy95 Date: 1/26/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16449 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/26/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16450 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/26/2006
Subject: CNN.com - Scientists discover world's smallest fish - Jan 26, 2006
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16451 From: Philp Bob Andrew Dick Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: new to marine and ruining little lives...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16452 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16453 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: Take II
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16454 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16455 From: Sandra Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: Re: new to marine and ruining little lives...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16456 From: clarkmariposo25@aol.com Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: Re: Whale in Thames - London
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16457 From: Sandy Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: new to marine and ruining little lives...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16458 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Take II
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16459 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Take II
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16460 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Take II
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16461 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Whale in Thames - London
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16462 From: Sandra Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: new to marine and ruining little lives...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16463 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: new to marine and ruining little lives...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16464 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Take II
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16465 From: wantvws Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Help! Sealer question!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16466 From: hank voss Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help! Sealer question!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16467 From: kristopher helsing Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help! Sealer question!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16468 From: Sandy Date: 1/29/2006
Subject: Re: new to marine and ruining little lives...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16469 From: DIWA WINKU Date: 1/31/2006
Subject: DIY Ca Reaktor Substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16470 From: DIWA WINKU Date: 1/31/2006
Subject: MUD system
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16471 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/31/2006
Subject: Re: MUD system
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16472 From: wantvws Date: 1/31/2006
Subject: Heater comments?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16473 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/1/2006
Subject: Re: Heater comments?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16474 From: red-eye Date: 2/1/2006
Subject: Re: Heater comments?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16475 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 2/1/2006
Subject: Re: Heater comments?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16476 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/1/2006
Subject: Reply
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16477 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/2/2006
Subject: Re: Heater comments?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16478 From: Robbie Lawson Date: 2/2/2006
Subject: Re: Heater comments?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16479 From: harry perry Date: 2/3/2006
Subject: Cichlid fans.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16480 From: harry perry Date: 2/3/2006
Subject: Cichlid fans. The correct link.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16481 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 2/3/2006
Subject: Re: Cichlid fans. The correct link.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16482 From: DIWA WINKU Date: 2/3/2006
Subject: Re: MUD system
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16483 From: Roy Difuntorum Date: 2/4/2006
Subject: Re: my pet shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16484 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 2/4/2006
Subject: Jebo Heaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16485 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/4/2006
Subject: Re: my pet shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16486 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Color variations w/ lighting?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16487 From: Jerry Young Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16488 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16489 From: Jerry Young Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16490 From: Jerry Young Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16491 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Color variations w/ lighting?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16492 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16493 From: Ivan White (Aqua-Hobbyist) Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16494 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Color variations w/ lighting?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16495 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Color variations w/ lighting?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16496 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 2/6/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16497 From: wantvws Date: 2/6/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16498 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 2/6/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16499 From: Aranel Date: 2/6/2006
Subject: lonely goldfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16500 From: tigerfizh� Date: 2/6/2006
Subject: BREEDING ZEBRA DANIOS :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16501 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/7/2006
Subject: Re: lonely goldfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16502 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/8/2006
Subject: ADA Aqua Soil - Amazonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16503 From: fish_guru2001 Date: 2/8/2006
Subject: my favorite fish forum
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16504 From: Joe Beaudry Date: 2/11/2006
Subject: Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16505 From: Sandy Date: 2/11/2006
Subject: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16506 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/12/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16507 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/12/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16508 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/12/2006
Subject: Subject: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Shane
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16509 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/12/2006
Subject: Re: Subject: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Shane
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16510 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/13/2006
Subject: Crooked Swimmer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16511 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/13/2006
Subject: Re: Crooked Swimmer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16512 From: kristopher helsing Date: 2/13/2006
Subject: Re: Crooked Swimmer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16513 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/13/2006
Subject: Whoa! More fish swimming crooked
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16514 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16515 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16516 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16517 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16518 From: harry perry Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16519 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16520 From: MIke Schornak Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Whoa! More fish swimming crooked
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16521 From: dragonman_999 Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Beginning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16522 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16523 From: Richard Troon Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Fluval vs Sump
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16524 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16525 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Pale Firemouth, Dead Eheim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16526 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16527 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16528 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16529 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16530 From: grimwulff Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16531 From: DIWA WINKU Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Pale Firemouth, Dead Eheim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16532 From: dragonman_999 Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: goldfish stress
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16533 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: goldfish stress
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16534 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16535 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16536 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16537 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16538 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16539 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16540 From: MIke Schornak Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: goldfish stress
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16541 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16542 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16543 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16544 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16545 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16546 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16547 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16548 From: Sandra Kay Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16549 From: Sandra Kay Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: gourmi started out thread
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16550 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16551 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16552 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16553 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16554 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16555 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16556 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/18/2006
Subject: Re: gourmi started out thread
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16557 From: fiddlenero Date: 2/18/2006
Subject: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16558 From: payumo_pwu Date: 2/18/2006
Subject: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16559 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/18/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16560 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 2/18/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16561 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16562 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16563 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: gourmi started out thread
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16564 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16565 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16566 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: gourmi started out thread
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16567 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Infected Feeers/Bacterial disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16568 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: Infected Feeders/Bacterial disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16569 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Infected Feeders/Bacterial disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16570 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Dying of clay based substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16571 From: Jerry Young Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16572 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16573 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16574 From: Leslie Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16575 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16576 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16577 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: salt bath formula for fw fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16578 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: salt bath formula for fw fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16579 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16580 From: Leslie Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16581 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: salt bath formula for fw fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16582 From: jerry young Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Deseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16583 From: fiddlenero Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16584 From: fiddlenero Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16585 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16586 From: fiddlenero Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16587 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16588 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16589 From: hank voss Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16590 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16591 From: raleighaquariumsociety Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Raleigh Aquarium Society Workshop - THIS WEEKEND!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16592 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16593 From: }<)))*> Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Deseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16594 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Deseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16595 From: }<)))*> Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Deseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16596 From: Patrick Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Deseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16597 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16598 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/22/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16599 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/22/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16600 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/22/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16601 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 2/22/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16602 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/22/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16603 From: bigter4 Date: 2/23/2006
Subject: Filter issue ( whisper)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16604 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: Can damaged snail shells heal?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16605 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: will bullheads eat smaller fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16606 From: MIke Schornak Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: Re: Filter issue ( whisper)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16607 From: harry perry Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: Re: Filter issue ( whisper)/All my tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16608 From: wendie Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: Re: Filter issue ( whisper)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16609 From: KCronan@aol.com Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: Re: Can damaged snail shells heal?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16610 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/25/2006
Subject: Re: Deseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16611 From: Steve Martinez Date: 2/25/2006
Subject: Hello and HELP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16612 From: Philip Baird Date: 2/26/2006
Subject: Re: Hello and HELP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16613 From: Steve Martinez Date: 2/26/2006
Subject: Re: Hello and HELP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16614 From: Steve Martinez Date: 2/27/2006
Subject: Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16615 From: dvgorelov Date: 2/27/2006
Subject: Any advice on community tank, please?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16616 From: harry perry Date: 2/27/2006
Subject: Look at this little gem.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16617 From: harry perry Date: 2/27/2006
Subject: Re: Look at this little gem./Sorry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16618 From: harryfisherman Date: 2/28/2006
Subject: Photos added.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16619 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/28/2006
Subject: Re: Photos added.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16620 From: bigter4 Date: 3/1/2006
Subject: Re: Filter issue ( whisper)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16621 From: bigter4 Date: 3/1/2006
Subject: Re: Filter issue ( whisper)/All my tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16622 From: Steve Martinez Date: 3/2/2006
Subject: acurel f question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16623 From: shailendra Indulkar Date: 3/4/2006
Subject: Albino fish breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16624 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/4/2006
Subject: Aquarium Water vs. Water in the Wild
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16625 From: hank voss Date: 3/4/2006
Subject: Re: Albino fish breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16626 From: hank voss Date: 3/4/2006
Subject: Re: Albino fish breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16627 From: Sandy Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: tropical tank ph question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16628 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: Re: tropical tank ph question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16629 From: Sandy Kay Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: tropical tank ph question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16630 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16631 From: Sandy Kay Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results ~ sorry for being long from Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16632 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results ~ sorry for being long from Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16633 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Kuli Loach
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16634 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Wood suitable for canopy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16635 From: hank voss Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Re: Wood suitable for canopy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16636 From: Phil Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Re: Any advice on community tank, please?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16637 From: Allison Kulp Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: greetings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16638 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Re: Kuli Loach
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16639 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Re: Wood suitable for canopy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16640 From: Dmitry V Gorelov Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Re: Any advice on community tank, please?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16641 From: Sandy Kay Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: aquatic member ph test results ~ sorry for being long from Sandy re
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16642 From: Beth Brownell Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: I am at odds with this.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16643 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: I am at odds with this.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16644 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: Kuli Loach
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16645 From: supamii Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: blue-green slime algae!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16646 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: I am at odds with this.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16647 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: Kuli Loach
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16648 From: kristopher helsing Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16649 From: Patrick Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16650 From: Captain Dudedude Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Help me!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16651 From: supamii Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16652 From: supamii Date: 3/8/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16653 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 3/8/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16654 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 3/8/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16655 From: kristopher helsing Date: 3/8/2006
Subject: Re: Help me!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16656 From: supamii Date: 3/8/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16657 From: Captain Dudedude Date: 3/9/2006
Subject: Re: Help me!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16658 From: hank voss Date: 3/9/2006
Subject: Re: Help me!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16659 From: Sandy Kay Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16660 From: hank voss Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16661 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16662 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16663 From: Sandra Kay Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16664 From: Brian Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: cleaning a used tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16665 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning a used tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16666 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning a used tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16667 From: Steve Martinez Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: Cloudy aglae water ...HELP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16668 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning a used tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16669 From: heather norton Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning a used tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16670 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: OT: Diamondback Terrapin Survey
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16671 From: J G Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: sick (?) Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16675 From: Brian Date: 3/12/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning a used tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16676 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 3/12/2006
Subject: Re: THIS IS THE REAL HIM?/To Ahmad
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16677 From: Steve Martinez Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Can any member give me some help?????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16678 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16679 From: Dmitry V Gorelov Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16680 From: Steve Martinez Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16681 From: Dmitry V Gorelov Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16682 From: Steve Martinez Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16683 From: harry perry Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????/Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16684 From: Dmitry V Gorelov Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16685 From: cody adams Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: hello everyone
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16686 From: kristopher helsing Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: hello everyone
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16687 From: Brian Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: one more cleaning question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16688 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16689 From: Dmitry V Gorelov Date: 3/14/2006
Subject: Re: one more cleaning question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16690 From: cody adams Date: 3/14/2006
Subject: a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16691 From: Saphire Draco Date: 3/15/2006
Subject: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16692 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 3/16/2006
Subject: Re: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16693 From: Ash Date: 3/16/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1147
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16694 From: Alesha-Animal and Anime lover! Date: 3/18/2006
Subject: New Here!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16695 From: harry perry Date: 3/18/2006
Subject: A true story
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16696 From: kevin shaw Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16697 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16698 From: harry perry Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story/Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16699 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story/Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16700 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story/Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16701 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story/Happy Clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16702 From: Gregg Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: New member in DFW,TX
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16703 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Tetras Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16704 From: SuNnY Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16705 From: hank voss Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16706 From: cody adams Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16707 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: Re: A true story
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16708 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16709 From: dawnmvo Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: I've got something goin on????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16710 From: harry perry Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: Re: A true story/Valeen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16711 From: paul whitby Date: 3/22/2006
Subject: hello all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16712 From: Ro Date: 3/22/2006
Subject: trip to brazil & peru
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16713 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/23/2006
Subject: Re: hello all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16714 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/23/2006
Subject: Re: trip to brazil & peru
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16715 From: paul Date: 3/23/2006
Subject: Re: hello all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16716 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/23/2006
Subject: Re: trip to brazil & peru
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16717 From: paul whitby Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16718 From: harry perry Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars/Feeding monsters.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16719 From: paul Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars/Feeding monsters.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16720 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16721 From: paul whitby Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Pix posted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16722 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Hello Re: Oscars/Feeding monsters.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16723 From: paul Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16724 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16725 From: paul Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16726 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16727 From: paul Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16728 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16729 From: paul Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16730 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16731 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16732 From: wagtail65 Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: UPDATE: Livebearer & Guppy Mega-Event April 28-30
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16733 From: alexr1229 Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: New tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16734 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Pix posted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16735 From: clarkmariposo25@aol.com Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: aquatic Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16736 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16737 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: New tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16738 From: paul whitby Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: wow...Its Jaws.!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16739 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/25/2006
Subject: Re: New tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16740 From: paul whitby Date: 3/25/2006
Subject: New Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16741 From: 42 Date: 3/27/2006
Subject: Re: New member in DFW,TX
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16742 From: 42 Date: 3/27/2006
Subject: Re: New member in DFW,TX
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16743 From: Julie Roughley Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Discus Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16744 From: kristopher helsing Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Re: Discus Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16745 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Re: New member in DFW,TX
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16746 From: fiddlenero Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Reliable web resources/books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16747 From: Julie Roughley Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Re: Discus Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16748 From: steve Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16749 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Re: Reliable web resources/books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16750 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 3/31/2006
Subject: Re: Reliable web resources/books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16751 From: kwtrkbldr Date: 3/31/2006
Subject: Looking for Puget Sound Information
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16752 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/31/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for Puget Sound Information
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16753 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/1/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for Puget Sound Information
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16754 From: kwtrkbldr Date: 4/1/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for Puget Sound Information
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16755 From: Daniel Date: 4/2/2006
Subject: Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16756 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/2/2006
Subject: aquatic member ph test results~Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16757 From: fiddlenero Date: 4/3/2006
Subject: Re: Reliable web resources/books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16758 From: fiddlenero Date: 4/3/2006
Subject: Re: Reliable web resources/books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16759 From: Ivan Chester Canoy Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16760 From: earl martin santos Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16761 From: Gianluca Polgar Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: mudskippers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16762 From: Jerry Young Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16763 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Feeding earthworms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16764 From: Kurt Johnston Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: New Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16765 From: J29MM@aOL.COM Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding earthworms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16766 From: jerry young Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Barbs and Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16767 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding earthworms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16768 From: paul Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding earthworms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16769 From: Paolo Wilfred Payumo Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16770 From: paul whitby Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Freshwater Moray ell
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16771 From: earl martin santos Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16772 From: stormyeyedbabe Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding earthworms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16773 From: Jerry Young Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16774 From: paul whitby Date: 4/8/2006
Subject: New pic upload
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16775 From: Andreas Date: 4/8/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater Moray ell
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16776 From: paul Date: 4/8/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater Moray ell
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16777 From: Phil Date: 4/8/2006
Subject: Firemouths!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16778 From: shailendra Indulkar Date: 4/8/2006
Subject: Re: Albino fish breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16779 From: paul whitby Date: 4/9/2006
Subject: New pic upload
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16780 From: Scott Vaughn Date: 4/9/2006
Subject: albino fish breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16781 From: bigter4 Date: 4/10/2006
Subject: Just a sad story for all to read and learn from
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16782 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/10/2006
Subject: Re: Just a sad story for all to read and learn from
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16783 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 4/10/2006
Subject: Re: Just a sad story for all to read and learn from
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16784 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 4/10/2006
Subject: Finally decided what to do with...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16786 From: paul whitby Date: 4/11/2006
Subject: George..!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16787 From: paul whitby Date: 4/11/2006
Subject: Walking cats(Clarias batrachus)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16788 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/16/2006
Subject: Starting a canister filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16789 From: cody adams Date: 4/16/2006
Subject: finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16790 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 4/16/2006
Subject: Re: finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory f...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16791 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/16/2006
Subject: Re: finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory f...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16792 From: cody adams Date: 4/17/2006
Subject: Re: finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory f...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16793 From: Jenny & Wayne Date: 4/17/2006
Subject: Att: Edmonton AB members
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16794 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/17/2006
Subject: Re: finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory f...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16795 From: cody adams Date: 4/17/2006
Subject: info on dwarf cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16796 From: kristopher helsing Date: 4/18/2006
Subject: Re: info on dwarf cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16797 From: cody adams Date: 4/18/2006
Subject: Re: info on dwarf cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16798 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Blood parrots laid eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16799 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16800 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16801 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16802 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16803 From: cody adams Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: info on green terrors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16804 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16805 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16806 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16807 From: Amalthea X Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16808 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16809 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16810 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16811 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16812 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16813 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Egg setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16814 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16815 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Egg setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16816 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Egg setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16817 From: Amalthea X Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16818 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16819 From: paul Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16820 From: leonard stewart Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16821 From: Trevor Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16822 From: Trevor Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16823 From: Trevor Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16824 From: Trevor Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: Blood parrots laid eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16825 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16826 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16827 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16828 From: cody adams Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: a question about drift wood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16829 From: Daniel Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: a question about drift wood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16830 From: leonard stewart Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: a question about drift wood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16831 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: a question about drift wood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16832 From: llrdhsktr Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16833 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16834 From: harry perry Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom/Other options./Steve.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16835 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: Re: Re harry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16836 From: Karen Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: HELP--brown problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16837 From: james bruce moat Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: krazyzeke
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16838 From: Ash Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1174
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16839 From: Ash Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1174
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16840 From: paul whitby Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Walking cats( Clarias batrachus ) are mateing.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16841 From: Andreas Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Re: Walking cats( Clarias batrachus ) are mateing.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16842 From: cody adams Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: info on blue jack dempseys
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16843 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Re: info on blue jack dempseys
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16844 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Hermit Crab?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16845 From: kristopher helsing Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16846 From: kristopher helsing Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Re: info on blue jack dempseys
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16847 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16848 From: DIWA WINKU Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16849 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16850 From: Thomas W. Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16851 From: ryfraph13 Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16852 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Odd Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16853 From: dragonman_999 Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Gill Problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16854 From: 42 Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Odd Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16855 From: cody adams Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16856 From: 42 Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16857 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: dojos and goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16858 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16859 From: cody adams Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16860 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Traira: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16861 From: 42 Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16862 From: cody adams Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16863 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16864 From: cody adams Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16865 From: cody adams Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16866 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16867 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16868 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Utricularia as a fry hiding place
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16869 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: Utricularia as a fry hiding place
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16870 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Help w/ Uv Sterilizer decision
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16871 From: Charity Thornhill Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: New here.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16872 From: paul Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: New here.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16873 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/26/2006
Subject: Re: Utricularia as a fry hiding place
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16874 From: kristopher helsing Date: 4/26/2006
Subject: Re: Help w/ Uv Sterilizer decision
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16875 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 4/26/2006
Subject: Re: New here.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16876 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 4/26/2006
Subject: Re: New here.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16877 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/27/2006
Subject: Re: New here.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16878 From: paul whitby Date: 4/27/2006
Subject: Black Hair Algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16879 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Adding some driftwood...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16880 From: kb1dva Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Help -
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16881 From: hank voss Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16882 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16883 From: hank voss Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16884 From: Patrick Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16885 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16886 From: deborahgd14 Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16887 From: cody adams Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16888 From: Donna Ransome Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16889 From: hank voss Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16890 From: cody adams Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16891 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16892 From: cody adams Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16893 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16894 From: hank voss Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16895 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16896 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16897 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16898 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16899 From: Trevor Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16900 From: Trevor Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16901 From: Trevor Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16902 From: paul whitby Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Black Hair Algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16903 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16904 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16905 From: chris topher Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: Black Hair Algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16906 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: 150 gallon, what filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16907 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: 150 gallon, what filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16908 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16909 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: info on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16910 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16911 From: hank voss Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16912 From: hank voss Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16913 From: Dragon Hunter Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Bicher
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16914 From: magdalena jones Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: 150 gallon, what filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16915 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16916 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16917 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16918 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16919 From: Elisabeth Agnello Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: does anyone have koi fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16920 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: 150 gallon, what filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16921 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16922 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: does anyone have koi fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16923 From: hank voss Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16924 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16925 From: kristopher helsing Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: Bicher
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16926 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16927 From: anne carrera Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: Bicher
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16928 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: question about flea bombs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16929 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16930 From: paul Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: Black Hair Algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16931 From: hank voss Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: question about flea bombs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16932 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bicher
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16933 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16934 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16935 From: Paolo Wilfred Payumo Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Black Hair Algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16936 From: Paolo Wilfred Payumo Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: does anyone have koi fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16937 From: Trevor Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: does anyone have koi fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16938 From: Trevor Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: 150 gallon, what filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16939 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16940 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16941 From: hank voss Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16942 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16943 From: hank voss Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16944 From: magdalena jones Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: 150 gallon, what filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16945 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16946 From: wendie Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16947 From: hank voss Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16948 From: wendie Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16949 From: muskie4817 Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Betta question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16950 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16951 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16952 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16953 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Lowest temperature for livebearer fry: Utricularia as a fry hiding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16954 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Lowest temperature for livebearer fry: Utricularia as a fry...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16955 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Lowest temperature for livebearer fry: Utricularia as a fry...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16956 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Artificial selection in Aquarium Habitats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16957 From: J29MM@aOL.COM Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Wanted: killifish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16958 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Wanted: killifish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16959 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Artificial selection in Aquarium Habitats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16960 From: blackbimmer1972 Date: 5/3/2006
Subject: Stocking Ideas for 44 Gal Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16961 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/3/2006
Subject: Re: Stocking Ideas for 44 Gal Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16962 From: steve Date: 5/4/2006
Subject: microbubbles in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16963 From: dragon6435@aol.com Date: 5/5/2006
Subject: St. Louis members-Fish for sale
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16964 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/6/2006
Subject: Eggs are covered in fungus!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16965 From: hank voss Date: 5/7/2006
Subject: Re: Eggs are covered in fungus!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16966 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/7/2006
Subject: Re: Eggs are covered in fungus!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16967 From: K Date: 5/8/2006
Subject: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16968 From: Chris Date: 5/8/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16969 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/8/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16970 From: K Date: 5/8/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16971 From: K Date: 5/8/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16972 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16973 From: K Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16974 From: K Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16975 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16976 From: K Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16977 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16978 From: K Date: 5/10/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16979 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/10/2006
Subject: 50 gal bow front value question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16980 From: humbottom Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: fish...of course
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16981 From: cciglan Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16982 From: cciglan Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Further to: Fire bellied toads and golfish question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16983 From: steve Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Re: 50 gal bow front value question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16984 From: angaturama07 Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Re: 50 gal bow front value question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16985 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Re: fish...of course
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16986 From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: New file uploaded to AquaticLife
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16987 From: cody adams Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: right dimension tank for cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16988 From: cody adams Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: right dimension tank for cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16989 From: cody adams Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: employment in the aquatic world
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16990 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16991 From: hank voss Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Re: right dimension tank for cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16992 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 5/13/2006
Subject: Re: right dimension tank for cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16993 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/13/2006
Subject: Re: right dimension tank for cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16994 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/13/2006
Subject: 3 in 1 Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16995 From: cody adams Date: 5/14/2006
Subject: question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16996 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/14/2006
Subject: Re: question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16997 From: KttmfC Date: 5/14/2006
Subject: Angelfish question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16998 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 5/15/2006
Subject: Question about my new 150 gallon tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16999 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/15/2006
Subject: Re: Question about my new 150 gallon tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17000 From: 42 Date: 5/15/2006
Subject: Re: Question about my new 150 gallon tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17001 From: 42 Date: 5/15/2006
Subject: Re: question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17002 From: Evita Date: 5/16/2006
Subject: Re: Question about my new 150 gallon tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17003 From: bigter4 Date: 5/16/2006
Subject: Re: Just a sad story for all to read and learn from
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17004 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/16/2006
Subject: Odd swimming betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17005 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/16/2006
Subject: Rocks & pH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17006 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 5/19/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17007 From: steve Date: 5/19/2006
Subject: my red line shark or rose line shark or puntius denisonii
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17008 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/19/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17009 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 5/19/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17010 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17011 From: Beth Brownell Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: How long does Angelfishes live for?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17012 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: Re: How long does Angelfishes live for?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17013 From: jim Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: Re: 3 in 1 Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17014 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17015 From: KttmfC Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: fish seeking home
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17016 From: blackbimmer1972 Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: African Dwarf Frog
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17017 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: what's wrong with my severum?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17018 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with my severum?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17019 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Fast cycle question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17020 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with my severum?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17021 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Magdalena: FW: Gerard...a disease for you to check out
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17022 From: Bev Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Help Please Unidentified Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17023 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Re: Help Please Unidentified Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17024 From: supamii Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fast cycle question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17025 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fast cycle question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17026 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fast cycle question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17027 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: pictus catfish vs. cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17028 From: hank voss Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: pictus catfish vs. cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17029 From: Andrew Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: How long does Angelfishes live for?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17030 From: G�rard Gagnon Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: Help Please Unidentified Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17031 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: new member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17032 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Water Change and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17033 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17034 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17035 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Specific Filter Recommendation for Fish and Amphibs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17036 From: kristopher helsing Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Re: Specific Filter Recommendation for Fish and Amphibs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17037 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17038 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Re: Specific Filter Recommendation for Fish and Amphibs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17039 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/26/2006
Subject: Algae covered gravel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17040 From: aclaar877 Date: 5/26/2006
Subject: Tetra Eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17041 From: hank voss Date: 5/26/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17042 From: aclaar877 Date: 5/26/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17043 From: hank voss Date: 5/26/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17044 From: thedakotawinds Date: 5/27/2006
Subject: Grass=Najas Guadlapensis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17045 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/27/2006
Subject: Canister filter help needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17046 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/27/2006
Subject: Re: Canister filter help needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17047 From: Ash Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1203
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17048 From: Evita Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1203
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17049 From: wantvws Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Protein skimmer advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17050 From: wantvws Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Intial tank set-up....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17051 From: Evita Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17052 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17053 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17054 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17055 From: aclaar877 Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17056 From: hank voss Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17057 From: Evita Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17058 From: wantvws Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17059 From: wantvws Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17060 From: aclaar877 Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17061 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17062 From: hank voss Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17063 From: Ash Date: 5/29/2006
Subject: Courting Oscars?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17064 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 5/29/2006
Subject: my new 150 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17065 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/29/2006
Subject: Re: my new 150 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17066 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/29/2006
Subject: Re: Courting Oscars?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17067 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/29/2006
Subject: Re: my new 150 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17068 From: Ash Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1205
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17069 From: hank voss Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1205
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17070 From: aclaar877 Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1205
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17071 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Plant Care and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17072 From: red-eye Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Plant Care and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17073 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Plant Care and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17074 From: red-eye Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Plant Care and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17075 From: Ash Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1206
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17076 From: Ash Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1206
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17077 From: chris topher Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17078 From: jim Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17079 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1202
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17080 From: EshMedicMom163@aol.com Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Intro
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17081 From: web_geni_88 Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17082 From: ebayario Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Choosing the light.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17083 From: Jessica Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: HELP - planaria
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17084 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1206
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17085 From: Dmitry Gorelov Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1202
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17086 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1202
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17087 From: hank voss Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17088 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: New tank & pictus cat question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17089 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: New tank & pictus cat question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17090 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: New tank & pictus cat question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17091 From: Evita Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17092 From: snerticus Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17093 From: Ash Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17094 From: Ash Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17095 From: Ash Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17096 From: edel Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: RIYUKEN FISH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17097 From: Evita Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17098 From: snerticus Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17099 From: snerticus Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17100 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17101 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17102 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17103 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Question about filter media
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17104 From: snerticus Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: HELP - planaria
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17105 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Plant Care and Death
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17106 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Is there any way?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17107 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17108 From: Ash Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17109 From: Ash Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17110 From: Ash Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17111 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17112 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17113 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17114 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17115 From: Evita Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17116 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17117 From: Ash Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1209
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17118 From: Ash Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1209
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17119 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17120 From: Cory Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: New to your group - betta/white ring?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17121 From: obrendie Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: How hot can the tank get ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17122 From: rhayneslcsw Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: New Member with a white worm Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17123 From: Evita Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1209
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17124 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Bigger Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17125 From: rjtroon Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Clown Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17126 From: rjtroon Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Red Line Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17127 From: steve Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Red Line Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17128 From: steve Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Clown Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17129 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: New to your group - betta/white ring?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17130 From: wendie Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Clown Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17131 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17132 From: wendie Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Bigger Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17133 From: llrdhsktr Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Old starting anew
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17134 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: New to your group - betta/white ring?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17135 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Clown Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17136 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Red Line Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17137 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: New to your group - betta/white ring?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17138 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: How hot can the tank get ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17139 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: New Member with a white worm Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17140 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17141 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: Old starting anew
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17142 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: Red Line Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17143 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: New Member with a white worm Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17144 From: snerticus Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: New Member with a white worm Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17145 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17146 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17147 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: New to your group - betta/white ring?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17148 From: hank voss Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17149 From: Evita Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17150 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17151 From: Sandra Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: new fish group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17152 From: Sandra Date: 6/6/2006
Subject: new list your groups group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17153 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/6/2006
Subject: Thinking about live plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17154 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 6/6/2006
Subject: Re: Thinking about live plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17155 From: hank voss Date: 6/6/2006
Subject: Re: Thinking about live plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17156 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: Thinking about live plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17157 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17158 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: can I add a flowerhorn?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17159 From: supamii Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Bloody Cyano - Explanation?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17160 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: can I add a flowerhorn?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17161 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody Cyano - Explanation?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17162 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: can I add a flowerhorn?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17163 From: magdalena jones Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: can I add a flowerhorn?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17164 From: magdalena jones Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: can I add a flowerhorn?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17165 From: supamii Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody Cyano - Explanation?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17166 From: lilmicnbac Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Lobster Art- speaks to me!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17167 From: Judy R Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: Thinking about live plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17168 From: sean bond madrazo Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: hello all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17169 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: Thinking about live plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17170 From: Ash Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1215
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17171 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: A light for live plants or too much?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17172 From: red-eye Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: A light for live plants or too much?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17173 From: aclaar877 Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: A light for live plants or too much?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17174 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1215
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17175 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody Cyano - Explanation?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17176 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Black algae? Fungus?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17177 From: sharporigional Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: I need HELP fixing the PH in my tropical fish aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17178 From: nebula331@yahoo.com Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Fish may avoid "sexual harassment," researchers say
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17179 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: I need HELP fixing the PH in my tropical fish aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17180 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: I need HELP fixing the PH in my tropical fish aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17181 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Tired of digging cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17182 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: Tired of digging cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17183 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: what's wrong with their eyes?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17184 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with their eyes?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17185 From: magdalena jones Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with their eyes?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17186 From: Ann Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with their eyes?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17187 From: cody adams Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: can I add a flowerhorn?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17188 From: tommy thompson Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: I need HELP fixing the PH in my tropical fish aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17189 From: magdalena jones Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with their eyes?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17190 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: Changed everything in my tank, the white worms are back
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17191 From: thesydmonster Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: What to add?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17192 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: Re: What to add?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17193 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: WalMart Puffer?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17194 From: thesydmonster Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: Re: WalMart Puffer?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17195 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: WalMart Puffer?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17196 From: bali-center Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: The Bigest Life Tropical Marine FIsh Company
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17197 From: micheal03us Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17198 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: WalMart Puffer?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17199 From: daniel_roachus Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: What to add?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17200 From: J29MM@aOL.COM Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: What to add?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17201 From: kristopher helsing Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: WalMart Puffer?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17202 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17203 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Silk plants in aquariums?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17204 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: OT: Worm Affecting Yahoo Users
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17205 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: Silk plants in aquariums?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17206 From: Wee Border Collie Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: new to the list
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17207 From: chris topher Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17208 From: Karen Millett Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17209 From: Karen Millett Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17211 From: chris topher Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17212 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17213 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17214 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank/ Shims
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17215 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17216 From: threekidzcrazy2004 Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Homemade filter for pond fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17217 From: mitzizot Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Planted tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17218 From: MitziZot@aol.com Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Hi,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17219 From: Keri Kimball Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Help Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17220 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17221 From: Jerry Young Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hi,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17222 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17223 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17224 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Planted tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17225 From: Terry Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re automatic feeders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17226 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17227 From: hank voss Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17228 From: MitziZot@aol.com Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17229 From: hank voss Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17230 From: Evita Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17231 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17232 From: chris topher Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17233 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17234 From: aclaar877 Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Garden Peat OK for Aquarium Use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17235 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17236 From: hank voss Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Garden Peat OK for Aquarium Use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17237 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17238 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17239 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17240 From: Kevin Batey Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Garden Peat OK for Aquarium Use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17241 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17242 From: Karen Millett Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17243 From: mitzizot Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17244 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Xpost-- UGF question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17245 From: eastbroadtop2000 Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Fish illness.....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17246 From: Len Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Algea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17247 From: MitziZot@aol.com Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17248 From: Karen Millett Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Algea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17249 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17250 From: Ash Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1221
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17251 From: aclaar877 Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Algea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17252 From: leonard stewart Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Algea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17253 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Xpost-- UGF question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17254 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Fish illness.....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17255 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Fish illness.....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17256 From: hank voss Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Fish illness.....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17257 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Algea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17258 From: Dawn Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Hi My Name Is Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17259 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17260 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17261 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1221
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17262 From: yan_ederson13 Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: Buon giorno
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17263 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17264 From: harry perry Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: Re: Buon giorno/yan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17265 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: new Yahoo! Groups email (was - Re: Unlevel tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17266 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17267 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/18/2006
Subject: Newly arrived angel is sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17268 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: Re: Newly arrived angel is sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17269 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: locked mouth?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17270 From: james bruce moat Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: Re: locked mouth?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17271 From: kepat2000 Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: snails in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17272 From: harry perry Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: Re: snails in tank/Live plants????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17273 From: shefy7 Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: new salt tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17274 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 6/20/2006
Subject: Re: snails in tank/Live plants????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17275 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/20/2006
Subject: Re: Newly arrived angel is sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17276 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/20/2006
Subject: Re: Newly arrived angel is sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17277 From: snerticus Date: 6/20/2006
Subject: Re: snails in tank/Live plants????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17278 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: Vacation prep/backup air pumps
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17279 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: Re: Vacation prep/backup air pumps
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17280 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: HELP! Angel is dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17281 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: Re: HELP! Angel is dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17282 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17283 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: my fish are dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17284 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17285 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17286 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17287 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17288 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Will Clout kill my bacteria?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17289 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17290 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: my upside down catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17291 From: Leslie Hennis Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17292 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17293 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: snails in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17294 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Now it's my pictus cat!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17295 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17296 From: Dawn Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Good Morning All
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17297 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Parasite meds, which to use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17298 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite meds, which to use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17299 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite meds, which to use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17300 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Furan-2 vs Bacterial Colony
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17301 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Good Morning All
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17302 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Furan-2 vs Bacterial Colony
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17303 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite meds, which to use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17304 From: supamii Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Stem-plants / Stargrass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17305 From: feather2night867 Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Question re: Paradise fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17306 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Tank Mate for Oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17307 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tank Mate for Oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17308 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: my upside down catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17309 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Furan-2 vs Bacterial Colony
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17310 From: shefy7 Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: tanks almost ready :) blue spotted ray...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17311 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tank Mate for Oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17312 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Mixing meds?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17313 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tank Mate for Oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17314 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Mixing meds?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17315 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Furan-2 vs Bacterial Colony
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17316 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Stem-plants / Stargrass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17317 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Mixing meds?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17318 From: shefy gupta Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Stem-plants / Stargrass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17319 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Fin Rot
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17320 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tank Mate for Oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17321 From: MIke Schornak Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: tanks almost ready :) blue spotted ray...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17322 From: MIke Schornak Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fin Rot
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17323 From: shefy gupta Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: tanks almost ready :) blue spotted ray...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17324 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Stem-plants / Stargrass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17325 From: Dawn Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Hi Karen!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17326 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Maracyn-Two...Immediate help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17327 From: harry perry Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Maracyn-Two...Immediate help/Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17328 From: Lisa Humphreys Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Help! Weird Chemical Reaction in my tank. I need insight
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17329 From: Karen Millett Date: 6/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hi Karen!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17330 From: momofholly2002 Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: Fin Rot ? HELP please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17331 From: Amalthea X Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fin Rot ? HELP please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17332 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fin Rot ? HELP please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17333 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fin Rot ? HELP please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17334 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fin Rot ? HELP please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17335 From: big_george_lake Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: "billroute"?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17336 From: clocknut44@aol.com Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: newbe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17337 From: Ed Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: new member and question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17338 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: Re: "billroute"?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17339 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: Re: "billroute"?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17340 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17341 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17342 From: Brian Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17343 From: Ed Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17344 From: Ed Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17345 From: Ed Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17346 From: Steve Page Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: New Here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17347 From: Steve Page Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Also
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17348 From: Ed Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: Steve and my ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17349 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: Steve and my ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17350 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17351 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: "billroute"?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17352 From: Kevin Batey Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17353 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17354 From: Steve Page Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: 55 Gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17355 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17356 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: Steve and my ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17357 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: New Here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17358 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: Also
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17359 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: 55 Gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17360 From: Steve Page Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17361 From: EARLdaPEARL Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Worm like swinmmers in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17362 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: Also
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17363 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Re: Worm like swinmmers in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17364 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Re: Steve and my ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17365 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Re: Also
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17366 From: Steve Page Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Re: Also
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17367 From: dragonman_999 Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Pop Eye?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17368 From: Paul Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Community or Semi-Aggressive Fish Tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17369 From: mitzizot Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: Pop Eye?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17370 From: Steve Page Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: New Here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17371 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: Community or Semi-Aggressive Fish Tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17372 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: New Here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17373 From: Ed Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17374 From: ROBERT ZANUSSI Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: Also
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17375 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: Also
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17376 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Transport
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17377 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17378 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: Pop Eye?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17379 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: New Here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17380 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17381 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17382 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17383 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17384 From: mitzizot Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17385 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17386 From: Judy R Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17387 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17388 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: African Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17389 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: 90 gallon cleanout.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17390 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: Re: 90 gallon cleanout.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17391 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: African Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17392 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: African Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17393 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: African Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17394 From: Ed Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Live plants and ammonia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17395 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17396 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17397 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17398 From: Ed Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17399 From: Ed Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17400 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17401 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Adding air bubbles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17402 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17403 From: micheal03us Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: white clouds
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17404 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Adding air bubbles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17405 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Adding air bubbles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17406 From: Jannine Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17407 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: white clouds
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17408 From: Karen Millett Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: white clouds
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17409 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17410 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17411 From: Neener Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17412 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: white clouds
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17413 From: Ivan White (Prairie Spirit) Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Hornwort Floating Grass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17414 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: New baby clown loach-how long float it?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17415 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: New baby clown loach-how long float it?/Correct temp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17416 From: saeid4040 Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Call for Papers: Special Issue of IJEES on "Stream Ecology and Low
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17417 From: Cory Walter Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17418 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17419 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17420 From: Ed Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17421 From: Cory Walter Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17422 From: Cory Walter Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17423 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17424 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17425 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17426 From: Cory Walter Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17427 From: Aaron Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Breeding Ghost Shrimp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17428 From: DJ Matera Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: gourami help/puffer help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17429 From: yan_ederson13 Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: gourami help/puffer help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17430 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: gourami help/puffer help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17431 From: rhayneslcsw Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: gourami help/puffer help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17432 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: gourami help/puffer help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17433 From: blackbimmer1972 Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: Disease Prevention
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17434 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: shipping snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17435 From: dylanwinter2001 Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: rookie question on shrimps
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17436 From: Rebecca Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: African Clawed Frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17437 From: Aaron Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: Re: African Clawed Frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17438 From: Aaron Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: Re: African Clawed Frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17439 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: Oscars(Vertical swimming)HELP!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17440 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: Re: Oscars(Vertical swimming)HELP!!!!!(Read cause)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17441 From: Evita Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: Re: African Clawed Frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17442 From: Evita Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: Re: African Clawed Frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17443 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: Re: Oscars(Vertical swimming)HELP!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17444 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: Hi all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17445 From: momofholly2002 Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: Question about when to add fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17446 From: supamii Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: cooling fan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17447 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: Question about when to add fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17448 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Equalibrium(verticle swimming)Swim Bladder disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17449 From: Pat Jellison Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: African Clawed Frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17450 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: adding salt to freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17451 From: harry perry Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: A question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17452 From: harry perry Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: adding salt to freshwater/Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17453 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: cooling fan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17454 From: tourmaline54 Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17455 From: Evita Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17456 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17457 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Tank pH & meds
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17458 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: cooling fan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17459 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17460 From: Evita Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17461 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17462 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: Tank pH & meds
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17463 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17464 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Fish Disease and Cure [WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer he
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17465 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Tap water purifier
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17466 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Disease and Cure [WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17467 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water purifier
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17468 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer help]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17469 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Disease and Cure [WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17470 From: Evita Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17471 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17472 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Dont' know what's wrong w/lethargic clown loach laying on side
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17473 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: adding salt to freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17474 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Dont' know what's wrong w/lethargic clown loach laying on side
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17475 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Hi all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17476 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17477 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17478 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17479 From: Leslie Hennis Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17480 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17481 From: shefy7 Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Anyone want to buy 2 baby marble catsharks? bay area,CA?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17482 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17483 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type salt?Which med?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17484 From: kb1dva Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17485 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17486 From: DJ Matera Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: baby fish food for sale!!! cheap!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17487 From: Aaron Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17488 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Dont' know what's wrong w/lethargic clown loach laying on side
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17489 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Dont' know what's wrong w/lethargic clown loach laying on s...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17490 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type salt?Which med?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17491 From: Jenn Phillips Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Question about when to add fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17492 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type salt?Which med?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17493 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: cooling fan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17494 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: cooling fan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17495 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: Question about when to add fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17496 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type salt?Which med?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17497 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: How much salt to add to 10 gal?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17498 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: How much salt to add to 10 gal?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17499 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type salt?Which med?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17500 From: DJ Matera Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: baby fish food for sale!!! cheap!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17501 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Lethargic CL on side,etc/Salt/If not ich, what?/Plastic "tank"ok?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17502 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Changing tank dynamics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17503 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Giant Danios w/ dropsy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17504 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: salt in freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17505 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: Giant Danios w/ dropsy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17506 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17507 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17508 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17509 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: sexing Angelifish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17510 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17511 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: Lethargic CL on side,etc/Salt/If not ich, what?/Plastic "tank"o
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17512 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: sexing Angelifish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17513 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: Lethargic CL on side,etc/Salt/If not ich, what?/Plastic "tank"ok?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17514 From: Mark Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: DVAGA Meeting and Anubias Design Open House
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17515 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: Re: sexing Angelifish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17516 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: Re: Giant Danios w/ dropsy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17517 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lethargic CL on side,etc/Salt/If not ich, what?/Plastic "tank"o
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17518 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: Lethargic CL on side,etc/Correction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17519 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: 2 questions: feeding frogs to fish & cleaning water stains
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17520 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: sexing Angelifish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17521 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: 2 questions: feeding frogs to fish & cleaning water stains
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17522 From: Beth Brownell Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Adding Guppies to a 55 gallon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17523 From: Nicolas J. Munro Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Problems with fish 'skin' falling off.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17524 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: Problems with fish 'skin' falling off.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17525 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: sexing Angelifish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17526 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: Adding Guppies to a 55 gallon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17527 From: Nicolas J. Munro Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: Problems with fish 'skin' falling off.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17528 From: Nicolas J. Munro Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: Adding Guppies to a 55 gallon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17529 From: Holly Nelson Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: looking for loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17530 From: beachcuriosity Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: just getting started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17531 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: just getting started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17532 From: harry perry Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: just getting started/ Start here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17533 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: OT: Check it Out for The Free
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17534 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: 2 questions: feeding frogs to fish & cleaning water stains
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17535 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: sexing Angelifish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17536 From: Karen Millett Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: looking for loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17537 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17538 From: Leslie Hennis Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17539 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Elephant nose & whiptail catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17540 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose & whiptail catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17541 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Candied Parrots
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17542 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17543 From: wantvws Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Protein skimmer question....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17544 From: steve Date: 7/16/2006
Subject: just got my first angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17545 From: akdsl1 Date: 7/16/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17546 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/16/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better & better!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17547 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/16/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17548 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17549 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17550 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose & farlowella.. :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17551 From: yan_ederson13 Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: i want my fish thrive back afain
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17552 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17553 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose & farlowella.. :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17554 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: White worm dancing in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17555 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17556 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17557 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17558 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17559 From: Regina Haynes Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17560 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17561 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17562 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17563 From: snerticus Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17564 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Will Clowns eat mealworms and peas?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17565 From: Regina Haynes Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17566 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17567 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17568 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17569 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: In tank water quality monitors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17570 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17571 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17572 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17573 From: harry perry Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question/Hydra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17574 From: Regina Haynes Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17575 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17576 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: just getting started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17577 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17578 From: Yannis Kouzounias Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17579 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Hagen product not always safe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17580 From: llrdhsktr Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17581 From: Evita Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17582 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: What plant is this ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17583 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: What plant is this ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17584 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17585 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17586 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17587 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17588 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17589 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: What plant is this ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17590 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17591 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?/Sinker??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17592 From: Evita Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?/Sinker??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17593 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: In tank water quality monitors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17594 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: In tank water quality monitors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17595 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17596 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17597 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17598 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: In tank water quality monitors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17599 From: Evita Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17600 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17601 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17602 From: Cory Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Baby Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17603 From: Regina Haynes Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17604 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Eclipse 6 gallon acryllic aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17605 From: gracefullnature Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Crossocheilus latius
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17606 From: Chris Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17607 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17608 From: Amalthea X Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17609 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17610 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: In tank water quality monitors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17611 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17612 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17613 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17614 From: Evita Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17615 From: Mark Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17616 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!/Turtle in w/fish??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17617 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17618 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17619 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse 6 gallon acryllic aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17620 From: Evita Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!/Turtle in w/fish??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17621 From: Evita Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17622 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse 6 gallon acryllic aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17623 From: Evita Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17624 From: taginmom@aol.com Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17625 From: Aaron Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17626 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: Angels w/ red fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17627 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17628 From: Mark Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17629 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: Turtle in w/fish?? What kind??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17630 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: Re: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17631 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Molly Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17632 From: taginmom@aol.com Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17633 From: Aaron Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17634 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17635 From: Holly Nelson Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Turtle in w/fish?? What kind??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17636 From: Evita Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Turtle in w/fish?? What kind?? Photo of baby Patrick the slider
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17637 From: Evita Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Turtle in w/fish?? What kind?? Photo, Patrick at about 1 year o
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17638 From: Evita Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Turtle in w/fish?? What kind?? Photo of baby Patrick the slider
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17639 From: Mark Denaro Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17640 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17641 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17642 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17643 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17644 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17645 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17646 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17647 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17648 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17649 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: re; ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17650 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: re; ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17651 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17652 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17653 From: Anton Montilla Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17654 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17655 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17656 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17657 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17658 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17659 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17660 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17661 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17662 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17663 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17664 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17665 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17666 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17667 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17668 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17669 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17670 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17671 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17672 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17673 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17674 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17675 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17676 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17677 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Elephant nose diet success & zapping question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17678 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17679 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich/Farlowella
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17680 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17681 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17682 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17683 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich/Farlowella
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17684 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17685 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17686 From: wendie Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17687 From: Holly Nelson Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re; books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17688 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17689 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17690 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17691 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17692 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: re Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17693 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: starter fish and quarantine tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17694 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish and quarantine tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17695 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish and quarantine tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17696 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17697 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17698 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17699 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17700 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17701 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish and quarantine tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17702 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17703 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish and quarantine tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17704 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17705 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17706 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17707 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17708 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17709 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17710 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17711 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17712 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17713 From: gamingasia Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Poor water quality.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17714 From: taginmom@aol.com Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: The Lighthouse Fish Store
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17715 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Poor water quality.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17716 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Who are you ?????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17717 From: wendie Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17718 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17719 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17720 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17721 From: wendie Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: The Lighthouse Fish Store
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17722 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Poor water quality.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17723 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: The Lighthouse Fish Store
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17724 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17725 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17726 From: Jonathan Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17727 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17728 From: Jonathan Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17729 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17730 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17731 From: Jonathan Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17732 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17733 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Giant Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17734 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Giant Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17735 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17736 From: Jonathan Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17737 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17738 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17739 From: micheal03us Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: zebra danio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17740 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17741 From: taginmom@aol.com Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17742 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17743 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17744 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17745 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17746 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17747 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17748 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish and quarantine tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17749 From: Karen Millett Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17750 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17751 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17752 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17753 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17754 From: Karen Millett Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17755 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17756 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17757 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: re' starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17758 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: re' starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17759 From: John Sychua Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17760 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17761 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17762 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17763 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17764 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17765 From: MIke Schornak Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17766 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17767 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17768 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: My web site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17769 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17770 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17771 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17772 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17773 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17774 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Quarantine Tank Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17775 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Quarantine Tank Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17776 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17777 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17778 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17779 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17780 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17781 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17782 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17783 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17784 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Testing methods
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17785 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Testing methods
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17786 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17787 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Testing methods
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17788 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Testing methods
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17789 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17790 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17791 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17792 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17793 From: marty nyb Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17794 From: Rick Rattie Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: greetings and saluations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17795 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17796 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17797 From: wendie Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17798 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17799 From: wendie Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17800 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17801 From: wendie Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17802 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17803 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Losing my cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17804 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17805 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Canadian Clubs [WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17806 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Canadian Clubs [WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LF
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17807 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17808 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17809 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Losing my cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17810 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17811 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Testing methods
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17812 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Testing methods
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17813 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17814 From: Mark Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17815 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17816 From: chris topher Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17817 From: harry perry Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet/Notice the posts length.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17818 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17819 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17820 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17821 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17822 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17823 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17824 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17825 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17826 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17827 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17828 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17829 From: chris topher Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17830 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17831 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17832 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17833 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17834 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17835 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17836 From: shewolf6873 Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: help with fire bellied newt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17837 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17838 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17839 From: chris topher Date: 7/31/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17840 From: harry perry Date: 7/31/2006
Subject: An experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17841 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: [UniQuaria] An experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17842 From: chris topher Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: An experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17843 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: what to do with green algea water?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17844 From: bunnycareshi Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Toilet that features live aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17845 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Farlowella Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17846 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: Farlowella Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17847 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: what to do with green algea water?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17848 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: Farlowella Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17849 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17850 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17851 From: Ken & Julie Tobiassen Date: 8/2/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17852 From: Ken & Julie Tobiassen Date: 8/2/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17853 From: Matt Date: 8/2/2006
Subject: Nitrite spike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17854 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17855 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17856 From: Matt Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17857 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17858 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: random fishy question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17859 From: angel Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: yellow water question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17860 From: Kevin Batey Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17861 From: angel Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17862 From: Kevin Batey Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17863 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17864 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17865 From: Robb Rouse Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Bow front and corner unit tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17866 From: Matt Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17867 From: bri_ann225 Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Brand New Here With a Question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17868 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Bow front and corner unit tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17869 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Brand New Here With a Question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17870 From: Sandra Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Gold goumaries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17871 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Brand New Here With a Question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17872 From: Evita Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Bow front and corner unit tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17873 From: sunshynehs Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17874 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17875 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17876 From: Ann Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Brand New Here With a Question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17877 From: Ann Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Brand New Here With a Question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17878 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Bow front and corner unit tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17879 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17880 From: Ken & Julie Tobiassen Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17881 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: After the Fawlowella it's now the Sturisoma
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17882 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: random fishy question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17883 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17884 From: meooooooow1965 Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Question about aquarium size
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17885 From: wendie Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Question about aquarium size
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17886 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Question about aquarium size
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17887 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Question about aquarium size
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17888 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17889 From: southernbelle79_63877 Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Aquatic Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17890 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquatic Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17891 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17892 From: Karen Millett Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Re: power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17893 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Re: Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17894 From: faubeth Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Thank you!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17895 From: harry perry Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Babies?/ Angels on the way.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17896 From: leedodd2006 Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Garden Ponds
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17897 From: Mark Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17898 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: size of aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17899 From: wendie Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: size of aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17900 From: Sandra willber Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries(ThankS)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17901 From: chris topher Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries(ThankS)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17902 From: Evita Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Thank you!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17903 From: Sandra willber Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17904 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17905 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Garden Ponds
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17906 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: size of aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17907 From: wendie Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Thank you!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17908 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries(ThankS)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17909 From: Evita Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17910 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17911 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17912 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17913 From: Cory Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17914 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: 3 Questions w/ pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17915 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: 3 Questions w/ pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17916 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17917 From: Mark Denaro Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: size of aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17918 From: sunshynehs Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Babies?/ Angels on the way.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17919 From: chris topher Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Babies?/ Angels on the way.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17920 From: Leslie Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Will this light work?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17921 From: Leslie Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Will this light work?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17922 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Will this light work?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17923 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Will this light work?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17924 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Will this light work?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17925 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: re power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17926 From: Cory Walter Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: re power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17927 From: harry perry Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Peroxide????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17928 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Peroxide????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17929 From: Aaron Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Substrate ?'s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17930 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: Substrate ?'s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17931 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: Substrate ?'s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17932 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: : [AquaticLife] re power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17933 From: Sandra willber Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Gold goumaries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17934 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: : [AquaticLife] re power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17935 From: Cory Walter Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: : [AquaticLife] re power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17936 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: : [AquaticLife] re power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17937 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: : [AquaticLife] re power failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17938 From: harry perry Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: Peroxide????/Nim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17939 From: littlenloud Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: new here -- need help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17940 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: new here -- need help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17941 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17942 From: littlenloud Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: new here -- need help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17943 From: Aaron Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: Substrate ?'s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17944 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: Substrate ?'s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17945 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: hmmmm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17946 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: hmmmm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17947 From: sunshynehs Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17948 From: Leslie Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: White stuff: worm? poop?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17949 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Angelfish Gang Attack
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17950 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish Gang Attack
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17951 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17952 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17953 From: Rebecca Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Flicking/Flashing Platies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17954 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17955 From: deborahgd14 Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Flicking/Flashing Platies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17956 From: deborahgd14 Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish Gang Attack
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17957 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish Gang Attack
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17958 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17959 From: Leslie Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17960 From: Aaron Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: What kind of Crawdad is this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17961 From: angel Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: My oscar is crazy LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17962 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17963 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: My oscar is crazy LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17964 From: snerticus Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17965 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: My oscar is crazy LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17966 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries:Tank dynamics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17967 From: littlenloud Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17968 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17969 From: Annie Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Nitrites HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17970 From: littlenloud Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17971 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrites HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17972 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17973 From: Aaron Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17974 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17975 From: littlenloud Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17976 From: Aaron Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17977 From: littlenloud Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17978 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17979 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17980 From: chris topher Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17981 From: Aaron Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: lfs and Aqurium Societys (was - Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17982 From: Aaron Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17983 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17984 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17985 From: chris topher Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17986 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17987 From: habskahuna Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17988 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17989 From: chris topher Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17990 From: chris topher Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17991 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17992 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17993 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17994 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17995 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: any crustacean owners here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17996 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17997 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17998 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17999 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18000 From: chris topher Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18002 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18003 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18004 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Arg! Why do have aquariums!?!? :-/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18005 From: Aaron Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: any crustacean owners here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18006 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: [Norton AntiSpam] [AquaticLife] Re: any crustacean owners here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18007 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [AquaticLife] Re: any crustacean owners here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18008 From: Mel Bowman Date: 8/13/2006
Subject: angelicus loach
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18009 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: angelicus loach
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18010 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18011 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18012 From: Darlene Charlson Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18013 From: Johnmackle Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Help with identifying a creature.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18014 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: Help with identifying a creature.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18015 From: Joseph Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: for the person with the pic identification
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18016 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: Help with identifying a creature.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18017 From: Mel Bowman Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: angelicus loach
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18018 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Clown knife fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18019 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18020 From: Johnmackle Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: for the person with the pic identification
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18021 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Mbuna Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18022 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Mbuna Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18023 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18024 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18025 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Mbuna Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18026 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18027 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18028 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Mbuna Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18029 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Mbuna Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18030 From: chris topher Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18031 From: stevenshapson Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18032 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18033 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18034 From: Billie Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18035 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18036 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18037 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Were is the fish variety ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18038 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18039 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18040 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18041 From: Billie Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18042 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18043 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18044 From: big_george_lake Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18045 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18046 From: chris topher Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18047 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18048 From: Mark Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?/Pond Deicers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18049 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?/Pond Deicers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18050 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18051 From: aclaar877 Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Tetras Spawn; No Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18052 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18053 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18054 From: hank voss Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Spawn; No Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18055 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18056 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18057 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Spawn; No Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18058 From: aclaar877 Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Spawn; No Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18059 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Question for those who maintain other aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18060 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Anyone from Arkansas?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18061 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Question for those who maintain other aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18062 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Spawn; No Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18063 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18064 From: big_george_lake Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18065 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18066 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Help with Clown Knife Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18067 From: rick linboom Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18068 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18069 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Help with Clown Knife Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18070 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Help with Clown Knife Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18071 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18072 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18073 From: aclaar877 Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: what to do with green algea water?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18074 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18075 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18076 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Help with Clown Knife Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18077 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18078 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Help with Clown Knife Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18079 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18080 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18081 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18082 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18083 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Low mortality rate,Black Mollies.//carnivorous Plecostamus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18084 From: Mark Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18085 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18086 From: hank voss Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18087 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18088 From: hank voss Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18089 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: My recent trip...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18090 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18091 From: M A C Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: gambusia tadpole question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18092 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18093 From: hank voss Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18094 From: chris topher Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: gambusia tadpole question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18095 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18096 From: M A C Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: gambusia tadpole question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18097 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18098 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: My recent trip...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18099 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18100 From: chris topher Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: gambusia tadpole question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18101 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Help with Clown Knife Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18102 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18103 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18104 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18105 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18106 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18107 From: Margo Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Sturgeon and new member!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18108 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18109 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Update: Crack in the glass & driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18110 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18111 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18112 From: recklessdisregard Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Using Snails to Combat Algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18113 From: harry perry Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae/reckless
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18114 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: bettas question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18115 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18116 From: rick linboom Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18117 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18118 From: Cory Walter Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: bettas question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18119 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18120 From: Hope Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18121 From: Leslie Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18122 From: littlenloud Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: update on oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18123 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18124 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18125 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: bettas question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18126 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18127 From: Mark Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18128 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18129 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18130 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18131 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18132 From: chris topher Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18133 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: RE what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18134 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: RE what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18135 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: RE what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18136 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Problem to know the concentration of malachite in the products avai
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18137 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18138 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: RE what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18139 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18140 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18141 From: sskmajd Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: turning off filter overnight?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18142 From: hank voss Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Problem to know the concentration of malachite in the products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18143 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: turning off filter overnight?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18144 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Problem to know the concentration of malachite in the products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18145 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18146 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Problem to know the concentration of malachite in the products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18147 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18148 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: turning off filter overnight?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18149 From: wendie Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: turning off filter overnight?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18150 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18151 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18152 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18153 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18154 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18155 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18156 From: Keri Kimball Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18157 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18158 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18159 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: UGF was questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18160 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: UGF was questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18161 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: UGF was questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18162 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18163 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18164 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18165 From: Evita Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: turning off filter overnight?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18166 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18167 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18168 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: More aquarium fun from Monterey
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18169 From: Hope Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18170 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18171 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18172 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18173 From: dragonman_999 Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18174 From: sfcrabman Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: Common carp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18175 From: Ann Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: backgrounds on tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18176 From: michelle276597 Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Neon Tetras with "white blob" on mouth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18177 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: backgrounds on tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18178 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18179 From: sriram21 Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Treatment for Electric Blue Jack Depmsey (EBJD)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18180 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Problem with a Pacu
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18181 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Royal Pleco questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18182 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: Treatment for Electric Blue Jack Depmsey (EBJD)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18183 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18184 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18185 From: Rebecca Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18186 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18187 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18188 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18189 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18190 From: chris topher Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18191 From: harry perry Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!/Rebecca
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18192 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18193 From: Annie Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: AQUARIUM ACCESSORIES!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18194 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18195 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18196 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18197 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: bettas question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18198 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18199 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18200 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18201 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18202 From: raliegh11 Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Digi Mate 3 in 1 Temperature/ Specific Gravity / Salinity Meter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18203 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18204 From: Judy R Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with a Pacu
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18205 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with a Pacu
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18206 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18207 From: Mel Bowman Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: stretched out male molly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18208 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18209 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18210 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: bettas question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18211 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a Pacu)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18212 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: stretched out male molly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18213 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: What to do with this fish eater ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18214 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: What to do with this fish eater ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18215 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18216 From: harry perry Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: What to do with this fish eater ?/Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18217 From: emtfirefly Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Giant Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18218 From: emtfirefly Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: In Search of Giant Gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18219 From: wendie Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: What to do with this fish eater ?/Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18220 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18221 From: Rebecca Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18222 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: What to do with this fish eater ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18223 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: What to do with this fish eater ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18224 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18225 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18226 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Neon Tetras with "white blob" on mouth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18227 From: snerticus Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18228 From: snerticus Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18229 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18230 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18231 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18232 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18233 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18234 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18235 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18236 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18237 From: Kevin Batey Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18238 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18239 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18240 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18241 From: angel Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18242 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18243 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Putting new items in a tank..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18244 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18245 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Snails..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18246 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18247 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Snails..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18248 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18249 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18250 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18251 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18252 From: momofholly2002 Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Koi Herpes Virus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18253 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18254 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18255 From: snerticus Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18256 From: snerticus Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18257 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18258 From: Judy R Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: In Search of Giant Gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18259 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18260 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18261 From: Rebecca Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18262 From: Gal Hever Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: New to group...new business
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18263 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18264 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18265 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18266 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18267 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18268 From: snerticus Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18269 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18270 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18271 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with a Pacu, solve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18272 From: edel Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: GOLDFISH AND SMELL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18273 From: edel Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: goldfish smell
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18274 From: snerticus Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: goldfish smell
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18275 From: snerticus Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a Pacu)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18276 From: Rebecca Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: GOLDFISH AND SMELL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18277 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Books Available
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18278 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18279 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18280 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Books Available
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18281 From: Gal Hever Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: New to group...new business
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18283 From: edel gonzalez Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: GOLDFISH AND SMELL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18284 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Birthday Reminder
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18285 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18286 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Eclipse systems!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18288 From: Darlene Charlson Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse systems!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18289 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: GOLDFISH AND SMELL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18290 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse systems!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18291 From: AquaticLife Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: AquaticLife is Now on MySpace!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18292 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18293 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18294 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18295 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18296 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18298 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with a Pacu, solve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18299 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18300 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18301 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18302 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18303 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18304 From: incantashia Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18305 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18306 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18307 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18309 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18310 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18311 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18312 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: backgrounds on tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18313 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: backgrounds on tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18314 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Treatment for Electric Blue Jack Depmsey (EBJD)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18315 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18316 From: Betty Lou Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18317 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18318 From: harry perry Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.Betty Lou
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18319 From: Ann Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: backgrounds on tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18320 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Algae Eater WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18321 From: Annie Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Babies live with no filter?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18322 From: harry perry Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!/Strange things in my ta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18323 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18324 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18325 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18326 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: backgrounds on tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18327 From: Betty Lou Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18328 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Babies live with no filter?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18329 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18330 From: Will Griffin Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web Sites
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18331 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18332 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18333 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18334 From: Betty Lou Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18335 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18336 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18337 From: wendie Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18338 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18339 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18340 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18341 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18342 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18343 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18344 From: Betty Lou Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18345 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18346 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18347 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: OT: FW: - ASIH LIST SERVER - CHYTRID FOUND IN LAB ANIMALS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18348 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18349 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18350 From: Betty Lou Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18352 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18353 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18354 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18355 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18356 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Birthday Reminder
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18357 From: Aaron Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: FREE 100 gallon SW tank complete with fish (Burlingame, CA)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18358 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18359 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Birthday Reminder
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18360 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18361 From: Paul Sternitzke Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: FREE 100 gallon SW tank complete with fish (Burlingame, CA)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18362 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18363 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18364 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18365 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18366 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18367 From: angel_kittys_mom Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Hi! Newbie Intro and Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18368 From: l.nave@comcast.net Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18369 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Birthday Reminder
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18370 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Hi! Newbie Intro and Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18371 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18372 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18373 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18374 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18375 From: Aaron Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: FREE 100 gallon SW tank complete with fish (Burlingame, CA)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18376 From: Darlene Charlson Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18377 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18378 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18379 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18380 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18381 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18382 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18383 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18384 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18385 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18386 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18387 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18388 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18389 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18390 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Bully Goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18391 From: banjo0421 Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Native Fish, Fish tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18392 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Red Tree Sponge..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18393 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: Bully Goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18394 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Aquariophily
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18395 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife] New
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18396 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18397 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: Aquariophily
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18398 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18399 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18400 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18401 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18402 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18403 From: harry perry Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18404 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18405 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18406 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Bully Goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18407 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18408 From: Judy R Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18409 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18410 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18411 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18412 From: cgvs Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Golden Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18413 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18414 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Golden Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18415 From: Jerry Young Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?And Other Problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18416 From: cgvs Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Golden Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18417 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?And Other Problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18418 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18419 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18420 From: cgvs Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: gudgeons
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18421 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18422 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18423 From: Kevin Batey Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18424 From: Shiru Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18425 From: rick linboom Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18426 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18427 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18428 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18429 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18430 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18431 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18432 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18433 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18434 From: Jennifer Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18435 From: Rebecca Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18436 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18437 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18438 From: yan_ederson13 Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: refreshing water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18439 From: Keri Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: Help Puffer Fish (Figure eight)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18440 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: Re: Help Puffer Fish (Figure eight)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18441 From: Aaron Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: [SVAS] Silicon Valley Aquarium Society Meeting This Saturday, Sept.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18442 From: mytiel123 Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18443 From: AquaticLife Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: San Francisco Aquarium Society (SFAS) Annual Fish Auction 8 PM Toni
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18444 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18445 From: mytiel123 Date: 9/2/2006
Subject: tank testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18446 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Common Names Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18447 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18448 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: L Numbers and Other Codes (Long Post)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18449 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Some More West Coast Photography
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18450 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18451 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18452 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18453 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18454 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Aquarium Society Listings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18455 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18456 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Society Listings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18457 From: Aaron Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Society Listings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18458 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18459 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18460 From: aclaar877 Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18461 From: monsterdealz Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18462 From: harry perry Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question/monsterdealz?? a name would be nice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18463 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18464 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18465 From: wendie Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18466 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18467 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18468 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18469 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18470 From: wendie Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18471 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18472 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18473 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18474 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18475 From: mytiel123 Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18476 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18477 From: jules27au Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Guppie Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18478 From: mytiel123 Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: a question from a new member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18479 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Guppie Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18480 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Guppie Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18481 From: Bill McCusker Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18482 From: Bill McCusker Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18483 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Guppie Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18484 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting for Neon Tetras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18485 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18486 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18487 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18488 From: Jennifer Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Water change
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18489 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18490 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18491 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Pop eye & septicemia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18492 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pop eye & septicemia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18493 From: Jennifer Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18494 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: compatibility with mollies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18495 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18496 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18497 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Water change
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18498 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pop eye & septicemia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18499 From: Hope Livingston Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Pink Tip Anemone question....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18500 From: Jennifer Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18501 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18502 From: chris topher Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18503 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pink Tip Anemone question....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18504 From: monsterdealz Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18505 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: compatibility with mollies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18506 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18507 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18508 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Water change
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18509 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18510 From: Hope Livingston Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pink Tip Anemone question....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18511 From: harry perry Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18512 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pink Tip Anemone question....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18513 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18514 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pink Tip Anemone question....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18515 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18516 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18517 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18518 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18519 From: harry perry Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18520 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18521 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18522 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18523 From: Hope Livingston Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18524 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18525 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Bioballs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18526 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18527 From: chris topher Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18528 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18529 From: chris topher Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18530 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18531 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Bioballs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18532 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18533 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18534 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18535 From: chris topher Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18536 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18537 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18538 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18539 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: buying plants in bulk for cheap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18540 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18541 From: chris topher Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: buying plants in bulk for cheap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18542 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18543 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18544 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: What do silver dollars eat?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18545 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Bioballs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18546 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18547 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18548 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18549 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18550 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18551 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18552 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: buying plants in bulk for cheap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18553 From: llrdhsktr Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18554 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18555 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: BTW
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18556 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18557 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18558 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18559 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18560 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18561 From: Hope Livingston Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Thank you..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18562 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18563 From: jfazio Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: aquarium newbie guppy q
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18564 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18565 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Julidochromis transcriptus (was ~ RE: [AquaticLife] Water change)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18566 From: harry perry Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18567 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18568 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18569 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18570 From: harry perry Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18571 From: harry perry Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18572 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: buying plants in bulk for cheap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18573 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray/Harry and whomever else
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18574 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: All/Harry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18575 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18576 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18577 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18578 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18579 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18580 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: What do silver dollars eat?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18581 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18582 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Julidochromis transcriptus (was ~ RE: [AquaticLife] Water chang
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18583 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18584 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18585 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18586 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18587 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18588 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray/Harry and whomever else
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18589 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18590 From: harry perry Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe/again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18591 From: Hussam Mousa Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Maintaining proper tempreture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18592 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: What do silver dollars eat?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18593 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray/Harry and whomever else
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18594 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18595 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18596 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18597 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18598 From: snerticus Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18599 From: chris topher Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18600 From: chris topher Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18601 From: Keri Kimball Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Guppie Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18602 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18603 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18604 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18605 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18606 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe/again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18607 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Joseph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18608 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Joseph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18609 From: chris topher Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18610 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Joseph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18611 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Joseph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18612 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Joseph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18613 From: aclaar877 Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Live Plants - St. Louis area
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18614 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Maintaining proper tempreture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18615 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18616 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe/again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18617 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18618 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18619 From: Frank Still Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: New To Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18620 From: Frank Still Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Best light to show off Tetra colors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18621 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18622 From: hank voss Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Best light to show off Tetra colors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18623 From: hank voss Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Best light to show off Tetra colors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18624 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: New To Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18625 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Best light to show off Tetra colors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18626 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18627 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18628 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Bacterial treatment, which one?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18629 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18630 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18631 From: hank voss Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Best light to show off Tetra colors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18632 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18633 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18634 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18635 From: harry perry Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18636 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Bloody stools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18637 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody stools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18638 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18639 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18640 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody stools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18641 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18642 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18643 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18644 From: deborahgd14 Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18645 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18646 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody stools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18647 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18648 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18649 From: harry perry Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish/Steve and Sissy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18650 From: harry perry Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras/as usual, thank you to all.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18651 From: harry perry Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: hydra, another option.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18652 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18653 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18654 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18655 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18656 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18657 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18658 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18659 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18660 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18661 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18662 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody stools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18663 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18664 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18665 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18666 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18667 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18668 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18669 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18670 From: harry perry Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online,/Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18671 From: harry perry Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option. Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18672 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18673 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18674 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18675 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18676 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18677 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18678 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18679 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18680 From: hank voss Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18681 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18682 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18683 From: hank voss Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18684 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18685 From: hank voss Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18686 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18687 From: chris topher Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18688 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18689 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18690 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras: salt concentrations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18691 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18692 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18693 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18694 From: hank voss Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18695 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18696 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18697 From: harry perry Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: bbs and hydra/some research/ to all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18698 From: habskahuna Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18699 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18700 From: hank voss Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydra/some research/ to all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18701 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydra/some research/ to all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18702 From: harry perry Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydra/some research/ to all/My theory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18703 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18704 From: Andreas Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18705 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18706 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18707 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Goldfish symptoms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18708 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18709 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18710 From: chris topher Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18711 From: chris topher Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18712 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish symptoms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18713 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish symptoms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18714 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18715 From: fishing_reich Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: New Member Intro
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18716 From: chris topher Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18717 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish symptoms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18718 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish symptoms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18719 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish symptoms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18720 From: Judy R Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18721 From: rjtroon Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: What do silver dollars eat?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18722 From: cody adams Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: please someone help me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18723 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18724 From: snerticus Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18725 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18726 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18727 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18728 From: Actually, people do call me snert Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18729 From: Actually, people do call me snert Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18730 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18731 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18732 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Holes in the fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18733 From: drhyperlaur Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: hi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18734 From: Cory Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18735 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish Symptoms - from Nancy T.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18736 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish Symptoms - from Nancy T.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18737 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18738 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18739 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18740 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18741 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18742 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18743 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18744 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18745 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18746 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18747 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18748 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18749 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18750 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Holes in the fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18751 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18752 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18753 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18754 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18755 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18756 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18757 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18758 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18759 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: hi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18760 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18761 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18762 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: YouTube - Bulletproof Server and Goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18763 From: Judy R Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18764 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18765 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18766 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18767 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Holes in the fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18768 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18769 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18770 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18771 From: chris topher Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18772 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Holes in the fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18773 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Holes in the fins
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18774 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18775 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18776 From: chris topher Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18777 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18778 From: Kevin Batey Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18779 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18780 From: chris topher Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18781 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18782 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18783 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18784 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18785 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18786 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18787 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18788 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18789 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18790 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18791 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18792 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18793 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?/Frank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18794 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18795 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18796 From: angel Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: help with my tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18797 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?/Frank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18798 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18799 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18800 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18801 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18802 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18803 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18804 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18805 From: Jennifer Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Trained
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18806 From: Andrew Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Purigen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18807 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18808 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?/Frank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18809 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18810 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: To Heat or Not to Heat
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18811 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18812 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18813 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18814 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18815 From: chris topher Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18816 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18817 From: snerticus Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: Purigen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18818 From: chris topher Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18819 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18820 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18821 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18822 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18823 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18824 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18825 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: Purigen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18826 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18827 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18828 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: taking pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18829 From: Avin Deen Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Aquarists in Penang/Malaysia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18830 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18831 From: aclaar877 Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: taking pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18832 From: sunshine_141_1999 Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: OSCURS AND MORGRUNDA GOBY
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18833 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18834 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: taking pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18835 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Tiger Nerite Snail (Neritina natalensis)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18836 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Betta's caudrin (sic) fin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18837 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Nerite Snail (Neritina natalensis)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18838 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Betta's caudrin (sic) fin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18839 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Nerite Snail (Neritina natalensis)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18840 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Hexamita? Ulcers?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18841 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Betta's caudrin (sic) fin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18842 From: Jaclyn Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18843 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18844 From: Jaclyn Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18845 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18846 From: Jaclyn Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18847 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18848 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Betta's caudrin (sic) fin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18849 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Betta's caudrin (sic) fin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18850 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18851 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18852 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: mollies and guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18853 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: mollies and guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18854 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: mollies and guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18855 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: hmmmm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18856 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: mollies and guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18857 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: hmmmm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18858 From: Betty Lou Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Pregnant Guppy - When to Quarentine
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18859 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: hmmmm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18860 From: harry perry Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: hmmmm I agree with Steve.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18861 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: mollies and guppies - updated info for your consideration
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18862 From: sina_56k Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: sorry to interrup but ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18863 From: Jennifer Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18864 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18865 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18866 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18867 From: Jennifer Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Aquarium Decor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18868 From: whjordan83 Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18869 From: sina_56k Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Decor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18870 From: Jennifer Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: New addition
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18871 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Pregnant Guppy - When to Quarentine
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18872 From: Jennifer Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: New addition
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18873 From: Jennifer Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Not good I think?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18874 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: mollies and guppies - updated info for your consideration
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18875 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: sorry to interrup but ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18876 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18877 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Decor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18878 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Pregnant Guppy - When to Quarentine
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18879 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Not good I think?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18880 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Not good I think?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18881 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: sorry to interrup but ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18882 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18883 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Not good I think?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18884 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Not good I think?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18885 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Decor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18886 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Fish hanging around the filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18887 From: Betty Lou Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Gendering a Platy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18888 From: Rich Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Gendering a Platy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18889 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Fish hanging around the filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18890 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Norwalk Aquarium Society 50th Annual Show & Auction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18891 From: Jennifer Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Second Post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18892 From: Jennifer Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Amonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18893 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Second Post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18894 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Amonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18895 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Gendering a Platy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18896 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Amonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18897 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Second Post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18898 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Ghost knife fish recovered
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18899 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Fish hanging around the filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18900 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost knife fish recovered
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18901 From: Jannine Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Companians for danios and barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18902 From: Cory Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18903 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18904 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18905 From: Keri Kimball Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18906 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18907 From: Betty Lou Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Gendering a Platy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18908 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18909 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18910 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18911 From: chris topher Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18912 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18913 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18914 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18915 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18916 From: sskmajd Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: sick dwarf gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18917 From: sskmajd Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: New aquarium with cloudy water and brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18918 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18919 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18920 From: kissinmera Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Texas Cichlids Mating?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18921 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18922 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18923 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18924 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18925 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Texas Cichlids Mating?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18926 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18927 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18928 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18929 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18930 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18931 From: Rich Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Texas Cichlids Mating?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18932 From: Rich Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Texas Cichlids Mating?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18933 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Tap water readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18934 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Confused
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18935 From: harry perry Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Confused/Chemicals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18936 From: chris topher Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18937 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18938 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18939 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Confused/Chemicals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18940 From: Dawn Kaiser Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18941 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18942 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18943 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Confused
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18944 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18945 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18946 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18947 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18948 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18949 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18950 From: micheal03us Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Dropsy???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18951 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18952 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18953 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Fish age & illnesses
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18954 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Tap water readings the next day
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18955 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings the next day
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18956 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings the next day
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18957 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Dropsy???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18958 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Home page
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18959 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: guppy having problems?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18960 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Need a plan?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18961 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18962 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18963 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Home page
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18964 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18965 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18966 From: chris topher Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18967 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18968 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18969 From: chris topher Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18970 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18971 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18972 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18973 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18974 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18975 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18976 From: Kevin Batey Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18977 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Correction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18978 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18979 From: chris topher Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18980 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18981 From: chris topher Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18982 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18983 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18984 From: hank voss Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18985 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18986 From: Karen Millett Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Dropsy???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18987 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18988 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Dropsy???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18989 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18990 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18991 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18992 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18993 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18994 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: New aquarium with cloudy water and brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18995 From: harry perry Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18996 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18997 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18998 From: harry perry Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Dropsy???/micheal03us
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18999 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Stressed angels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19000 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Stressed angels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19001 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19002 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings the next day
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19003 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19004 From: Karen Millett Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Dropsy???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19005 From: hank voss Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19006 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19007 From: harry perry Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer/Madness!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19008 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Fish age & illnesses
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19009 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Fish age & illnesses
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19010 From: harry perry Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Fish age & illnesses/The best we can do./Leslie and all.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19011 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Home page
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19012 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19013 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: GPS coordinates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19014 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer/Madness!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19015 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19016 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: GPS coordinates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19017 From: Nicole Muench Seidel Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: OT--Autism Walk: 1 in 166 children have Autism
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19018 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Correction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19019 From: harry perry Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: OT--Autism Walk/Nicole/OT post./Please read.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19020 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19021 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: GPS coordinates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19022 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: GPS coordinates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19023 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19024 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19025 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer/Madness!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19026 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19027 From: chris topher Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19028 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer/Seahorses
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19029 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: GPS coordinates/Rob
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19030 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: GPS coordinates/Rob
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19031 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19032 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19033 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19034 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19035 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19036 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19037 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19038 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19039 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19040 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????/Where's Plato?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19041 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19042 From: Jennifer Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????/Where's Plato?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19043 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????/Where's Plato?/again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19044 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Plecos , your opinion please.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19045 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????/Where's Plato?/again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19046 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos , your opinion please.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19047 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fishies dad????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19048 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fishies dad????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19049 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19050 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19051 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19052 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19053 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19054 From: Clubsprint Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: New member Hello/Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19055 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19056 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Updates to the Photography Museum...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19057 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19058 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19059 From: thedakotawinds Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: South Dakota: Blue Blushing Angels and a Beautiful Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19060 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19061 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19062 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19063 From: toolfan1987 Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Sand broke my filter!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19064 From: Dawn Kaiser Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19065 From: sskmajd Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New aquarium with cloudy water and brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19066 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19067 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19068 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19069 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19070 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19071 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19072 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: Sand broke my filter!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19073 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19074 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19075 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New aquarium with cloudy water and brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19076 From: harry perry Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: Fishies dad????/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19077 From: Clubsprint Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19078 From: Clubsprint Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19079 From: Clubsprint Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19080 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19081 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19082 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19083 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19084 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19085 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19086 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19087 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Fire Mouth problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19088 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fire Mouth problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19089 From: Jannine Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19090 From: magdalena jones Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fire Mouth problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19091 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: School tank, STARTING OVER
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19092 From: Jennifer Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Completed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19093 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19094 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Salt dehydration question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19095 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19096 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: School tank, STARTING OVER
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19097 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19098 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: School tank, STARTING OVER
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19099 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19100 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: School tank, STARTING OVER
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19101 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19102 From: jules27au Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Guppie Breeding Part 2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19103 From: its a secret Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: silver dollars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19104 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19105 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: Guppie Breeding Part 2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19106 From: Jennifer Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: My fishes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19107 From: snerticus Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19108 From: hank voss Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: My fishes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19109 From: wendie Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Moving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19110 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19111 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19112 From: Tracie Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19113 From: Rich Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19114 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19115 From: snerticus Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: New pics on my website...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19116 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19117 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19118 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Firemouth w/ parasite eggs?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19119 From: Jennifer Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Sad
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19120 From: jasondanielrobert Date: 9/28/2006
Subject: Problem with aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19121 From: Paul Sternitzke Date: 9/28/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19122 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/28/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19123 From: harry perry Date: 9/28/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium/To JP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19124 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/28/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19125 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19126 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: My fishes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19127 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19128 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: Sad
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19129 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: build your own aquariums?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19130 From: hank voss Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: build your own aquariums?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19131 From: Patrick Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19132 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: build your own aquariums?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19133 From: chris topher Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19134 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: build your own aquariums?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19135 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19136 From: Dmitry Gorelov Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19137 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: build your own aquariums?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19138 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19139 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: plan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19140 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19141 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19142 From: harry perry Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: plan/Test it./Jeannie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19143 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19144 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19145 From: habskahuna Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Angelfish fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19146 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: round bellies!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19147 From: chris topher Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19148 From: habskahuna Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Angelfish fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19149 From: jane parry Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19150 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: build your own aquariums?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19151 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: plan/Test it./Jeannie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19152 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19153 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19154 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: plan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19155 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19156 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19157 From: habskahuna Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19158 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19159 From: Linda Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Odyssea CSF 4 exterior filter maintenance Ques.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19160 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19161 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19162 From: jane parry Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19163 From: Patrick Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19164 From: chris topher Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19165 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19166 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19167 From: dragonman_999 Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: bump
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19168 From: jane parry Date: 10/3/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19169 From: Jennifer Date: 10/3/2006
Subject: The Big Move
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19170 From: Patrick Date: 10/3/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19171 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/3/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19172 From: supamii Date: 10/3/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19173 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/4/2006
Subject: Re: The Big Move
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19174 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/4/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19175 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 10/4/2006
Subject: Re: The Big Move
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19177 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA 5 MINIT LAGI
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19178 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA 5 MINIT LAGI
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19179 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA 5 MINIT LAGI
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19180 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA 5 MINIT LAGI
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19181 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19182 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19183 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19184 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19185 From: Patrick Date: 10/6/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19186 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19187 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/6/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19188 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19189 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/7/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19190 From: Aaron Date: 10/7/2006
Subject: Newt / Salamander?'s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19191 From: harry perry Date: 10/7/2006
Subject: Re: Newt / Salamander?'s/Aaron
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19192 From: rhayneslcsw Date: 10/7/2006
Subject: Bumps on Oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19193 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Bumps on Oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19194 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: A blue angelfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19195 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19196 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19197 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19198 From: Chris Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19199 From: Donna Ransome Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19200 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19201 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19202 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19203 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19204 From: Al Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Comet Goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19205 From: Saphire Draco Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19206 From: snerticus Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19207 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: Comet Goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19208 From: ftuitele Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Someone please help me with the setup of my new tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19209 From: Patrick Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19210 From: jane parry Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: Someone please help me with the setup of my new tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19211 From: jane parry Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: Comet Goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19212 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: Someone please help me with the setup of my new tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19213 From: Chris Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19214 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19215 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/10/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish-Some "?"s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19216 From: Chris Date: 10/10/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19217 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/10/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish-Some "?"s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19218 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 10/10/2006
Subject: self priming pump suggestions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19219 From: valorie erickson Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: intro.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19220 From: Linda Hodgens Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Re: self priming pump suggestions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19221 From: J Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Betta Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19222 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19223 From: deborahgd14 Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Angels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19225 From: duretteg Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19226 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19227 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19228 From: AquaticLife Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Re: Angels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19229 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19230 From: wendie Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19231 From: deborahgd14 Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Angels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19232 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19233 From: Rich Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19234 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Sexing angels?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19235 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Hexamita
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19236 From: wendie Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19237 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sexing angels?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19238 From: Jannine Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19239 From: wendie Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19240 From: Bill Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19241 From: wendie Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19242 From: Kevin H. Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19243 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19244 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19245 From: deborahgd14 Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19246 From: jjudy1957 Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19247 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19248 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19249 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19250 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19251 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Goldfish safe plants (was - Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19252 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19253 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish safe plants (was - Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19254 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19255 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19256 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Questions on Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19257 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish safe plants (was - Re: Abused classrm fish-Given t...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19258 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Angels fins are being nipped
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19259 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Questions on Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19260 From: Pat Jellison Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top? (source for
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19261 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Nipping suspects picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19262 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19263 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Questions on Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19264 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Angels fins are being nipped
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19265 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Classrm g/fish-freecycle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19266 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Questions on Bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19267 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19268 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19269 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: 10 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19270 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19271 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19272 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19273 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Hope Cinde is OK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19274 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19275 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Hope Cinde is OK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19276 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Hexamita
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19277 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Hope Cinde is OK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19278 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: 10 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19279 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19280 From: Clubsprint Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Compatible fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19281 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Elephant nose eating angel fins?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19282 From: duretteg Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Buying on Line
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19283 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose eating angel fins?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19284 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Compatible fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19285 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Evil Elephant Nose
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19286 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Evil Elephant Nose
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19287 From: Andreas Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Evil Elephant Nose
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19288 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose eating angel fins?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19289 From: Leslie Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose eating angel fins?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19290 From: Clubsprint Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Compatible fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19291 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: Evil Elephant Nose
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19292 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose eating angel fins?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19293 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: Compatible fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19294 From: J Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19295 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19296 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19297 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19298 From: Rob Renfro Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: ewwwww swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19299 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19300 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19301 From: Donna Ransome Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19302 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19303 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19304 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Fish Cross Impassable Barrier
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19305 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19306 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19307 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19308 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19309 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19310 From: Gaines Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Middle TN Group Buy (great deals on fish)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19311 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19312 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: BioSpira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19313 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Planted tank w/ cichlids?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19314 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Re: Planted tank w/ cichlids?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19315 From: wendie Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Re: BioSpira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19316 From: scottboyle9903 Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Growing Plants with a UGF
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19317 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Growing Plants with a UGF
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19318 From: Tony Donatelli Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: petwink.com?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19319 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Planted tank w/ cichlids?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19320 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Growing Plants with a UGF
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19321 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Fish ID & Plant gunk
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19322 From: hank voss Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19323 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19324 From: hank voss Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19325 From: Aaron Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19326 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19327 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19328 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Growing Plants with a UGF
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19329 From: hank voss Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19331 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/20/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk/Joseph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19332 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/20/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19333 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/20/2006
Subject: Ick spots?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19334 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/21/2006
Subject: Re: Ick spots?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19335 From: hank voss Date: 10/21/2006
Subject: Re: Ick spots?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19336 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/21/2006
Subject: Bosemani Rainbows at WalMart
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19337 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/22/2006
Subject: bio spira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19338 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/22/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19339 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/22/2006
Subject: Cory Cats & Pictus?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19340 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19341 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19342 From: wendie Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19343 From: snerticus Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19344 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19345 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira/ammonia readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19346 From: wendie Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19347 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira/ammonia readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19348 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira/ammonia readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19349 From: reynorbm100 Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira/ammonia readings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19350 From: plantlady Angie Date: 10/24/2006
Subject: Hi, I am Angie, i just joined
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19351 From: Imus Date: 10/24/2006
Subject: 20 gal tank with wood stand and extras for sale 50.00
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19352 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hi, I am Angie, i just joined
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19353 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hi, I am Angie, i just joined
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19354 From: Wayne Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hi, I am Angie, i just joined
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19355 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: Oniline plant source on eBay...FANTASTIC
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19356 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: plants/fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19357 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: added the bio spira
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19358 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19359 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19360 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19361 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19362 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: siphon tools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19363 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: I purchased lights... now ?'s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19364 From: reskie@cogeco.ca Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Injured cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19365 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Hi All and Welcome Angie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19366 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19367 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19368 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: Injured cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19369 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19370 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19371 From: AquaticLife Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19372 From: hank voss Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19373 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19374 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19375 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19376 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19377 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19378 From: Kenneth Ongsansoy Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Hi guys!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19379 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19380 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19381 From: Donna Ransome Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19382 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Mini Aquarium, USB Or Batteries
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19383 From: momofholly2002 Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: HELP PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19384 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19385 From: momofholly2002 Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19386 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19387 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19388 From: momofholly2002 Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19389 From: AquaticLife Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Important Message About Bouncing Memberships - THIS COULD BE YOU!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19390 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Plant care for Jungle Val
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19391 From: David Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Designer Aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19392 From: Aaron Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: Designer Aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19393 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19394 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: Important Message About Bouncing Memberships - THIS COULD BE YO
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19395 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: Plant care for Jungle Val
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19396 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19397 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Plant care for Jungle Val
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19398 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Plant care for Jungle Val
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19399 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Plant care for Jungle Val
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19400 From: snerticus Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Plants with high pH requirements
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19401 From: Patricia M Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Injured cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19402 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Plants with high pH requirements
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19403 From: momofholly2002 Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19404 From: fyyr.rm Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19405 From: capetown60 Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: 30 gal tank lightsI
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19406 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: 30 gal tank lightsI
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19407 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19408 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: 30 gal tank lightsI
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19409 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19410 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19411 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Plant care for Jungle Val
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19412 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19413 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19414 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: 30 gal tank lightsI
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19415 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19416 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19417 From: snerticus Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Plants with high pH requirements
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19418 From: snerticus Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19419 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19420 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19421 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19422 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19423 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19424 From: Rick Rattie Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: 75 Gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19425 From: hank voss Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19426 From: hank voss Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19427 From: fyyr.rm Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19428 From: Melissa Laing Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19429 From: Leslie Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19430 From: Leslie Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19431 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19432 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Cory Cats/ Pure Oxygen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19433 From: hank voss Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19434 From: hank voss Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19435 From: Cory Walter Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19436 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19437 From: Chad Plum Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19438 From: hank voss Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19439 From: Patricia M Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19440 From: Ash Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Plants in Sand?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19441 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Plants in Sand?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19442 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Plants in Sand?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19443 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Plants in Sand?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19444 From: Tammy Schilling Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Shallow water plants, plants with turtles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19445 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Plants in Sand?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19446 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Shallow water plants, plants with turtles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19447 From: hank voss Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Shallow water plants, plants with turtles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19448 From: fyyr.rm Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19449 From: hank voss Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19450 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Plants in Sand?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19451 From: Melissa Laing Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19452 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Catfish: most hardy varieties? I have a tough-as-nails banjo heade
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19453 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Shallow water plants, plants with turtles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19454 From: la_rmarquezjr Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Newbie here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19455 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19456 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Parasite dip
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19457 From: Subodh Chand Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: What is this fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19458 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Hi All, and welcome to the group Rod!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19459 From: hank voss Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19460 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19461 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19462 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19463 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19464 From: Chris Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19465 From: AquaticLife Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Important Message About Bouncing Memberships - THIS COULD BE YO
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19466 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19467 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: new plants and driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19468 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19469 From: micheal03us Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: swim bladder disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19470 From: alleycat0352 Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puffer.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19471 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19472 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19473 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19474 From: Subodh Chand Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19475 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19476 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19477 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19478 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Catfish: most hardy varieties? I have a tough-as-nails banjo h
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19479 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19480 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19481 From: Christine Fogu Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Live Plant Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19482 From: Christine Fogu Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19483 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish? Man Made
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19484 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish? Man Made
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19485 From: clubsprint Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Acidity help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19486 From: Karen Millett Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19487 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puff
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19488 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19489 From: Joe Saucedo Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puff
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19490 From: Joe Saucedo Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19491 From: chris topher Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Live Plant Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19492 From: snerticus Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19493 From: Jannine Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Blue Mystery Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19494 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19495 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19496 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19497 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19498 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Blue Mystery Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19499 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Apple snails for sale: Minneapolis, MN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19500 From: Rick Rattie Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: snail eaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19501 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: White Seam Pleco
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19502 From: Clubsprint Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19503 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19504 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19505 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19506 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19507 From: snerticus Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Blue Mystery Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19508 From: snerticus Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Blue Mystery Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19509 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19510 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19511 From: Clubsprint Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19512 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Good Morning All
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19513 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19514 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19515 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puff
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19516 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19517 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: Apple snails for sale: Minneapolis, MN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19518 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19519 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19520 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19521 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19522 From: taryn frankenfurter Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19523 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19524 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puff
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19525 From: Joe Saucedo Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puff
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19526 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19527 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19528 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19529 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19530 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19531 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19532 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19533 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19534 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: OT/Keri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19535 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19536 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19537 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19538 From: bunnycareshi Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19539 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19540 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19541 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Mouth fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19542 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Apple snails for sale: Minneapolis, MN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19543 From: cory Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: salt water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19544 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19545 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Mouth fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19546 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19547 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19548 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19549 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19550 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19551 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Cycling with bottled ammonia-read here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19552 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Mouth fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19553 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19554 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Mouth fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19555 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19556 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19557 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: bottled ammonia to use for cycling
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19558 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19559 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19560 From: Cory Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19561 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19562 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19563 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19564 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Mouth fungus/Joseph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19565 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Mouth fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19566 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19567 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19568 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19569 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19570 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19571 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19572 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19573 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Java Moss & Hydrophila wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19574 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19575 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19576 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19577 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19578 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19579 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss & Hydrophila wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19580 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19581 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss & Hygrophila wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19582 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19583 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19584 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19585 From: Cory Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Skippy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19586 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19587 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19588 From: Kevin Batey Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19589 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19590 From: tommy thompson Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss & Hydrophila wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19591 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss & Hydrophila wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19592 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19593 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19594 From: momofholly2002 Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19595 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19596 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19597 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19598 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19599 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19600 From: momofholly2002 Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19601 From: Pam Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19602 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19603 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19604 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19605 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19606 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19607 From: Nedra Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19608 From: Andreas Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: PH probe and light bulb replacement
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19609 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: PH probe and light bulb replacement
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19610 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19611 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19612 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19613 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19614 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: PH probe and light bulb replacement
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19615 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19616 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19617 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: PH probe and light bulb replacement
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19618 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19619 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19620 From: Rob Renfro Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19621 From: hank voss Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19622 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19623 From: snerticus Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19624 From: Cory Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Ick Question I Should Know the Answer To
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19625 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: Ick Question I Should Know the Answer To
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19626 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19627 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: Ick Question I Should Know the Answer To
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19628 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19629 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19630 From: Nedra Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19631 From: hank voss Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19632 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19633 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: brown algae has invaded!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19634 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19635 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19636 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19637 From: alleycat0352 Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19638 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19639 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19640 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19641 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19642 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19643 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: brown algae has invaded!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19644 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19645 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19646 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19647 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19648 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19649 From: Nedra Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for an
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19650 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19651 From: hank voss Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for an
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19652 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks/ thin glass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19653 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19654 From: Nedra Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Thanks again everyone
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19655 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19656 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks/ thin glass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19657 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19658 From: Nedra Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19659 From: Farscape Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19660 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19661 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19662 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19663 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Borneo Suckers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19664 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks/ thin glass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19665 From: cory Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: salt water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19666 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19667 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19668 From: wendie Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19669 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19670 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19671 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19672 From: wendie Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19673 From: cory Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: brown algae has invaded!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19674 From: snerticus Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for an
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19675 From: cory Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19676 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Java Moss Background
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19677 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss Background
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19678 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19679 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19680 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19681 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19682 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19683 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss Background
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19684 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19685 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19686 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19687 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19688 From: jules27au Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Breeding Neons & Silver Dollars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19689 From: David Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19690 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19691 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19692 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: I'm back and sooo happy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19693 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19694 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19695 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19696 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19697 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19698 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19699 From: millweem2000 Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Undergravel Filter Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19700 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19701 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19702 From: Cory Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Thank You Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19703 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19704 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19705 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19706 From: Nedra Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Thanks Steve, that was really interesting!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19707 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19708 From: Nedra Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- also li
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19709 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19710 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19711 From: Nedra Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19712 From: Nedra Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19713 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Tetracycline & Jungle Fungus Clear
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19714 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19715 From: Loki Wolf Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: java wall, goldie salt, and a general hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19716 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Tetracycline & Jungle Fungus Clear
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19717 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19718 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19719 From: Nedra Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19720 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19721 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19722 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19723 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19724 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19725 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19726 From: hank voss Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19727 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19728 From: hank voss Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19729 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19730 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19731 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19732 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19733 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19734 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19735 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19736 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19737 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: java wall, goldie salt, and a general hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19738 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19739 From: hank voss Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19740 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19741 From: hank voss Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19742 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19743 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19744 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19745 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19746 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19747 From: Rodrigo Jr. Marquez Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19748 From: hank voss Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19749 From: hank voss Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19750 From: - the one behind the masks - the playwri Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: java wall, goldie salt, and a general hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19751 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19752 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19753 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19754 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19755 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19756 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19757 From: hank voss Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19758 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19759 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19760 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19761 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19762 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19763 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19764 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19765 From: raliegh11 Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Salinity Meter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19766 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/16/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19767 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/16/2006
Subject: Nitrates are low
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19768 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/16/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrates are low
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19769 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/16/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19770 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/16/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19771 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19772 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19773 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Saltwater Tank Setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19774 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank Setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19775 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19776 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank Setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19777 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank Setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19778 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19779 From: fyyr.rm Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Platys and Cherry barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19780 From: Rob Renfro Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: Platys and Cherry barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19781 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: Platys and Cherry barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19782 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: white stuff????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19783 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: white stuff????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19784 From: semih ovat Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: Platys and Cherry barbs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19785 From: Leslie Date: 11/19/2006
Subject: White stuff on the mouth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19786 From: thedakotawinds Date: 11/19/2006
Subject: Gold honey dwarf gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19787 From: WILLIAM E CARLSON Date: 11/19/2006
Subject: Re: Gold honey dwarf gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19789 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/19/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19790 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/19/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19791 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19792 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Angel Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19793 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: Angel Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19794 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: Angel Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19795 From: Jennifer Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Hello all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19796 From: danielkaudern Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: White stuff on the mouth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19797 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: White stuff on the mouth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19798 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19799 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19800 From: Andrew Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Just accepted invitation to join this group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19801 From: Leslie Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: Angel Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19802 From: Mel Bowman Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19803 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19804 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19805 From: jacquieber4@juno.com Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19806 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19807 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19808 From: joe mihalich Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19809 From: vicky Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: NEW MEMBER
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19810 From: AquaticLife Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Just accepted invitation to join this group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19811 From: Will Griffin Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19812 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19813 From: Will Griffin Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Angel Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19814 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: NEW MEMBER
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19815 From: ronno971 Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19816 From: Andreas Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: KH Co2 and GH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19817 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19818 From: glass_etch Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19819 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Controlling phosphates???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19820 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19821 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19822 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19823 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19824 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Controlling phosphates???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19825 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19826 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19827 From: Rodrigo Jr. Marquez Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19828 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Good Morning All, and Welcome To Our New Members!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19829 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19830 From: Beth Brownell Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Puffy mouths on two Angelfishes.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19831 From: Beth Brownell Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19832 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19833 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19834 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Controlling phosphates???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19835 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19836 From: Mel Bowman Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19837 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Puffy mouths on two Angelfishes.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19838 From: wendie Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19839 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: my albino cory laid eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19840 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19841 From: Aaron Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: The Greater Chicago Cichlid Association's Swap Meet is this Sunday!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19842 From: Beth Brownell Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Puffy mouths on two Angelfishes.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19843 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19844 From: n9010d Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: my albino cory laid eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19845 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Another Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19846 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: my albino cory laid eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19848 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Another Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19849 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: my albino cory laid eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19850 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19851 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Re: Controlling phosphates???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19852 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19853 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Cloudy Stinky water going away - Thanks!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19854 From: Mel Bowman Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19855 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Stinky water going away - Thanks!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19856 From: Beth Brownell Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Re: Puffy mouths on two Angelfishes.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19857 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Silver feces in goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19858 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/24/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19859 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/24/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19860 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/24/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19861 From: nicolebitan17 Date: 11/24/2006
Subject: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19862 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/24/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19863 From: M G Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19864 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19865 From: Hope Livingston Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Things dying..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19866 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19867 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19868 From: annja_1966 Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19869 From: Joe Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19870 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19871 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19872 From: Bri Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19873 From: Hope Livingston Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19874 From: Hope Livingston Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19875 From: litchfield_tim Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Flush the Damsel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19876 From: Bri Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19877 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Flush the Damsel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19878 From: litchfield_tim Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Sorry I didn't mean flush them in a toilet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19879 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Clown loach!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19880 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19881 From: Hope Livingston Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Flush the Damsel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19882 From: Heather Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Clown loach!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19883 From: momofholly2002 Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Salt & Ich ????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19884 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt & Ich ????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19885 From: momofholly2002 Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Salt & ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19886 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt & ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19887 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt & ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19888 From: Angel Collis Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt & Ich ????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19889 From: Beth Brownell Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: I think my heater broke on me.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19890 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: I think my heater broke on me.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19891 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: I think my heater broke on me.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19892 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: I think my heater broke on me.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19893 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: Flush the Damsel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19894 From: Angel Phillips Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19895 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19896 From: Angel Phillips Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19897 From: Angel Phillips Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19898 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19899 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19900 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19901 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19902 From: farzinafshar Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19903 From: Angel Phillips Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19904 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19905 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19906 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19907 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: ICH!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19908 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: dragon Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19909 From: Matheo Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: WANTED: Genyochromis mento (lake Malawi cichlid)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19910 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: My case of ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19911 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19912 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: WANTED: Genyochromis mento (lake Malawi cichlid)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19913 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19914 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: dragon Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19915 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19916 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19917 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: ICH!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19918 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19919 From: donhelms@cox.net Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: "Missing" Dragon Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19920 From: farzin afshar Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19921 From: farzin afshar Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19922 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: dragon Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19923 From: Leslie Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19924 From: Leslie Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19925 From: joe mihalich Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: "Missing" Dragon Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19926 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19927 From: Mel Bowman Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19928 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: dragon Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19929 From: Tammy Howard Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: New to group and wanted to introduce myself
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19930 From: Karen Millett Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19931 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19932 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19933 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19934 From: Aaron Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19935 From: Aaron Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: New to group and wanted to introduce myself
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19936 From: habskahuna Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Angelfish problem?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19937 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19938 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19939 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19940 From: Nicole Tan Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19941 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19942 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Fwd: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19943 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19944 From: hank voss Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19945 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19946 From: Nedra Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: I have little worm like creatures floating and wiggling in my quar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19947 From: DanK1961@aol.com Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19948 From: Cory Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19949 From: joe mihalich Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19950 From: joe mihalich Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19951 From: DanK1961@aol.com Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19952 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19953 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Cloudy water back - SIGH...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19954 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19955 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19956 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19957 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19958 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19959 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19960 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19961 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water back - SIGH...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19962 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19963 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19964 From: dblacktroy Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Tankmates for arowana
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19965 From: DanK1961@aol.com Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Tankmates for arowana
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19966 From: Cory Walter Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19967 From: n9010d Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19968 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19969 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19970 From: FR�D�RIC OUELLET Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19971 From: Mel Bowman Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19972 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19973 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19974 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19975 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19976 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19977 From: litchfield_tim Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19978 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19979 From: Sam Tamura Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19980 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19981 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19982 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Tankmates for arowana
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19983 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19984 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19985 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19986 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19987 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19988 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19989 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19990 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19991 From: Melissa Laing Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19992 From: Sam Tamura Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19993 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19994 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19995 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19996 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19997 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19998 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19999 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20000 From: Karen Millett Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20001 From: hank voss Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20002 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20003 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20004 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20005 From: wcnida Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20006 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20007 From: duretteg Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Tiger Oscar Problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20008 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Oscar Problem/Glenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20009 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20010 From: Jackie Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Oscar Problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20011 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Oscar Problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20012 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Oscar Problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20013 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20014 From: hank voss Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Oscar Problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20015 From: Andreas Date: 12/5/2006
Subject: fish upside down anything I can do?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20016 From: ronno971 Date: 12/5/2006
Subject: Re: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20017 From: Mel Bowman Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20018 From: joe mihalich Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20019 From: joe mihalich Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20020 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20021 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20022 From: Allison Kulp Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20023 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20024 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20025 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/7/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20026 From: Angelia Moore Date: 12/7/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20027 From: Mel Bowman Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20028 From: Betty Lou Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Guppies - fin biting by female or platy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20029 From: Allison Kulp Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Dwarf Gourami concern
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20030 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20031 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20032 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20033 From: deborahgd14 Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20034 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Cory breeding question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20035 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Re: Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20036 From: husmousa Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Scooter Blenny swimming funny and not eating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20037 From: lindsay_aquariumofthebay Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Breakfast with Santa at Aquarium of the Bay
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20038 From: AquaticLife Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Re: Breakfast with Santa at Aquarium of the Bay
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20039 From: Melissa Laing Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Re: Cory breeding question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20040 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/10/2006
Subject: Moving & Acclimating fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20041 From: Allison Kulp Date: 12/10/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20042 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: PH in tank higher than tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20043 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20044 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20045 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20046 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20047 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20048 From: its a secret Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: a very large aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20049 From: its a secret Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: one more question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20050 From: Allison Kulp Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20051 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20052 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20053 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20054 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20055 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20056 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20057 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20058 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20059 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20060 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20061 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20062 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20063 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20064 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20065 From: Cory Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20066 From: Cory Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Got the chia pet answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20067 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20068 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20069 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20070 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20071 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20072 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20073 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20074 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20075 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20076 From: Cory Walter Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20077 From: Cory Walter Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20078 From: chris topher Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20079 From: chris topher Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20080 From: dwand4kids Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20081 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20082 From: jane parry Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20083 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20084 From: joe t Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: a very large aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20085 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20086 From: Mel Bowman Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20087 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20088 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20089 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20090 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20091 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20092 From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: New poll for AquaticLife
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20093 From: AquaticLife Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Not so New poll for AquaticLife
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20094 From: usnavyplanecaptain Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20095 From: Sam Tamura Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20096 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20097 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20098 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank/Plus tear down due to
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20099 From: Allison Kulp Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourai concern
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20100 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Anyone interested in a barnacle for their aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20101 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/14/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone interested in a barnacle for their aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20102 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Genetically defunct fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20103 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20104 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20105 From: joe mihalich Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20106 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20107 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20108 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20109 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20110 From: Nedra Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank/Plus tear down due to
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20111 From: Nedra Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20112 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Angel eggs??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20113 From: anne carrera Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20114 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20115 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20116 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20117 From: Heather Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Guppies are turning into to zombies!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20118 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Guppies are turning into to zombies!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20119 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20120 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20121 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20122 From: Linda Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: anchor worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20123 From: Heather Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Guppies are turning into to zombies!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20124 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20125 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20126 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20127 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20128 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/17/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20129 From: Linda Hodgens Date: 12/17/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20130 From: Bharath Tonse Date: 12/17/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20131 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/17/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20133 From: iowakoi Date: 12/17/2006
Subject: High ammonia level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20134 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20135 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20136 From: lynne_laverty Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20137 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20138 From: Linda Hodgens Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20139 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20140 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20141 From: Nedra Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20142 From: Nedra Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20143 From: Joe Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20144 From: Joe Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20145 From: Nedra Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20146 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20147 From: lynne_laverty Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20148 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20149 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20150 From: Joe Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20151 From: Joe Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20152 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20153 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: To rid of a CAE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20154 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20155 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Clown?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20156 From: Lynne Laverty Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20157 From: Lynne Laverty Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20158 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20159 From: Linda Hodgens Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Clown?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20160 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20161 From: Joe Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20162 From: iowakoi Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: update on high ammoina level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20163 From: Melissa Laing Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: To rid of a CAE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20164 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: To rid of a CAE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20165 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20166 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20167 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20168 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20169 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20170 From: Farscape Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20171 From: Farscape Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: To rid of a CAE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20172 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20173 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: To rid of a CAE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20174 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20175 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20176 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20177 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20178 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20179 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20180 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20181 From: Lynne Laverty Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20182 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20183 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20184 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20185 From: its a secret Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: how breed Silver Dollars?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20186 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20187 From: Nedra Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Thanks for the Pleco advise.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20188 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: needing a new lid only question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20189 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20190 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: needing a new lid only question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20191 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: needing a new lid only question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20192 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20193 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20194 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: needing a new lid only question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20195 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Just a Quick Note
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20196 From: Tiffany Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: mystery snail with mystery illness
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20197 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: mystery snail with mystery illness
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20198 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: mystery snail with mystery illness
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20199 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: needing a new lid only question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20200 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20201 From: kimberly Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they told
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20202 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20203 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20204 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20205 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20206 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20207 From: Teresa Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Strange things living in my aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20208 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 12/23/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20209 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/23/2006
Subject: Re: Strange things living in my aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20210 From: steve@familyszabo.com Date: 12/23/2006
Subject: A card from Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20211 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/23/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20212 From: Aaron Date: 12/23/2006
Subject: Re: A card from Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20213 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 12/24/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20214 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/24/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20215 From: Rich Date: 12/24/2006
Subject: MERRY CHRISTMAS TO EVERONE!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20216 From: Tiffany Date: 12/27/2006
Subject: what is this fish called??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20217 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/27/2006
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20218 From: dwand4kids Date: 12/27/2006
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20219 From: joe mihalich Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20220 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: How much is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20221 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: Re: How much is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20222 From: dwand4kids Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20223 From: marian81660 Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: A treatment for fin rot
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20224 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20225 From: marjoriesseedling Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: DENNERLE GROWING SYSTEM - ANY FANS?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20226 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: Re: How much is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20227 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 12/29/2006
Subject: Re: A treatment for fin rot
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20228 From: jim Date: 12/29/2006
Subject: Re: Strange things living in my aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20229 From: lohanso Date: 12/30/2006
Subject: Hi Everybody
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20230 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/30/2006
Subject: Re: How much is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20231 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/30/2006
Subject: Re: How much is too much
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20232 From: lynne_laverty Date: 12/30/2006
Subject: Which protein skimmer?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20233 From: Rich Date: 12/31/2006
Subject: HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!!!!!!



Group: AquaticLife Message: 16194 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Please Help!!!!!
Hi Guys,

I need help with several issues as, last night, 85% of my 75 gallon tank died. I've had the tank cycling around a month and, according to water tests done by pet smart, by #'s were fine. I just ran tests myself with Fresh Water Master Test Kit and my #'s actually look ugly. According to these tests results, which contradict a test result from the store my results are (if I read this correctly)

Ph level 7.2
Nitrite .25-.50 mg/l
Nitrate 5 mg/l
Ammonmia 2.0 mg/l.

So, obviously these #'s are awful (except the ph is fine). First, I live in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Can someone recommend a good LFS with knowledge people...right now I have used a pet smart, pet supermarket, and one LFS, and frankly, they are all idiots. For example, I wanted to purcahse one fish and they said it was peaceful. Looked it up, ummmm hell no.

Okay, so I had a few fish in the tank for afew days ( 2 cory's, 2 glass cat fish, 6 mollies, and 7 neon tetras) and really they were doing okay with, I assume, the numbers my tests generated today. However, yesterday I added a beautuiful gold nugget pleco, 4 black neon tetra's, some amazon sword plants, combada plants, and a 4 blood fin tetras. I woke up this morning and, everything, but the 2 cory's, 2 dalmation mollies, and 2 blood fin tetra's were all dead.

Obviously, I am not going to add anything until this tank stablizes. Can someone recommend anything?

PLEASE HELP!

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16195 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
In a message dated 1/1/2006 3:31:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, Iksnip@...
writes:

<<<I need help with several issues as, last night, 85% of my 75 gallon tank
died. I've had the tank cycling around a month and, according to water tests
done by pet smart, by #'s were fine. I just ran tests myself with Fresh
Water Master Test Kit and my #'s actually look ugly. According to these tests
results, which contradict a test result from the store my results are (if I
read this correctly)

Ph level 7.2
Nitrite .25-.50 mg/l
Nitrate 5 mg/l
Ammonmia 2.0 mg/l.>>>



Sorry about your losses. With a month under its belt, your tank was probably
a little better than halfway through its cycle. PetSmart, and most stores
like it, only test water with the test strips, which tend to be pretty
inaccurate -- and often *quite* inaccurate when the store uses past date stuff. Most
fish aren't going to live long when popped into a tank with those numbers, so
what happened is not unexpected. Keep testing the water and perform water
changes to keep the fish you still have healthy and allow the tank to complete
its cycle. Only then, when your ammonia and nitrite are both consistently at
0, can you consider slowly adding more fish.

When did you add the original fish? You mentioned you had them for a few
days. How long has the tank had fish in it?

One thing you've obviously learned already is to research fish before
buying. Too many fish stores of various types are too involved with selling fish
than educating their patrons. IMO, a well educated, happy customer is more
likely to come back repeatedly to spend more money rather than the person who is
unhappy because they dump some money into trying, have major losses and give
up. Go figure.

Vicky


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16196 From: harry perry Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!/Ken
Go to www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php I hope this helps.

Harry

Iksnip@... wrote: Hi Guys,

I need help with several issues as, last night, 85% of my 75 gallon tank died. I've had the tank cycling around a month and, according to water tests done by pet smart, by #'s were fine. I just ran tests myself with Fresh Water Master Test Kit and my #'s actually look ugly. According to these tests results, which contradict a test result from the store my results are (if I read this correctly)

Ph level 7.2
Nitrite .25-.50 mg/l
Nitrate 5 mg/l
Ammonmia 2.0 mg/l.

So, obviously these #'s are awful (except the ph is fine). First, I live in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Can someone recommend a good LFS with knowledge people...right now I have used a pet smart, pet supermarket, and one LFS, and frankly, they are all idiots. For example, I wanted to purcahse one fish and they said it was peaceful. Looked it up, ummmm hell no.

Okay, so I had a few fish in the tank for afew days ( 2 cory's, 2 glass cat fish, 6 mollies, and 7 neon tetras) and really they were doing okay with, I assume, the numbers my tests generated today. However, yesterday I added a beautuiful gold nugget pleco, 4 black neon tetra's, some amazon sword plants, combada plants, and a 4 blood fin tetras. I woke up this morning and, everything, but the 2 cory's, 2 dalmation mollies, and 2 blood fin tetra's were all dead.

Obviously, I am not going to add anything until this tank stablizes. Can someone recommend anything?

PLEASE HELP!

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16197 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Hey Vicky,

thanks for your feedback. I had the first batch on fish in the tank for a matter of days (perhaps 5) before i added the second batch and the tank expired. I can't say for sure exactly how long I have been cycling the tank but, again, it has been a few weeks.

your right about pet smart using those strips. Basically, looked, said it was good, and moved on. Total morons! Basically, just gotta let this cycle continue and go from there I guess.

thanks

Ken

-----Original Message-----
From: seleya8@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 16:00:00 EST
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Please Help!!!!!



In a message dated 1/1/2006 3:31:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, Iksnip@...
writes:

<<<I need help with several issues as, last night, 85% of my 75 gallon tank
died. I've had the tank cycling around a month and, according to water tests
done by pet smart, by #'s were fine. I just ran tests myself with Fresh
Water Master Test Kit and my #'s actually look ugly. According to these tests
results, which contradict a test result from the store my results are (if I
read this correctly)

Ph level 7.2
Nitrite .25-.50 mg/l
Nitrate 5 mg/l
Ammonmia 2.0 mg/l.>>>



Sorry about your losses. With a month under its belt, your tank was probably
a little better than halfway through its cycle. PetSmart, and most stores
like it, only test water with the test strips, which tend to be pretty
inaccurate -- and often *quite* inaccurate when the store uses past date stuff.
Most
fish aren't going to live long when popped into a tank with those numbers, so
what happened is not unexpected. Keep testing the water and perform water
changes to keep the fish you still have healthy and allow the tank to complete
its cycle. Only then, when your ammonia and nitrite are both consistently at
0, can you consider slowly adding more fish.

When did you add the original fish? You mentioned you had them for a few
days. How long has the tank had fish in it?

One thing you've obviously learned already is to research fish before
buying. Too many fish stores of various types are too involved with selling fish

than educating their patrons. IMO, a well educated, happy customer is more
likely to come back repeatedly to spend more money rather than the person who
is
unhappy because they dump some money into trying, have major losses and give
up. Go figure.

Vicky


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16198 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
In a message dated 1/1/2006 4:16:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, Iksnip@...
writes:

<<<thanks for your feedback. I had the first batch on fish in the tank for
a matter of days (perhaps 5) before i added the second batch and the tank
expired. I can't say for sure exactly how long I have been cycling the tank
but, again, it has been a few weeks.>>>




Unless you did something to help the cycle along before they were added,
your cycle didn't start until those first fish were added. Harry provided a link
explaining cycling which should explain it thoroughly. (and a lot better
than I could)




<<<your right about pet smart using those strips. Basically, looked, said
it was good, and moved on. Total morons! Basically, just gotta let this cycle
continue and go from there I guess.>>>


Yup, just keep testing your water, change water as needed and plan what
you're going to add when the cycle is done (the fun part). Be sure to add any
additional fish a couple at a time, not a bunch at once, so the biological
filter can keep up. Those test strips are all but useless imo -- they're only good
to pick up larger anomalies. In the grand scheme of things, the reagent
tests (dropper tests) aren't scientifically accurate either, but they're
sufficient for our general use. ;-)

Vicky


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16199 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Vicky,

Why do you claim the test strips are inaccurate? They are used in labs all
the time. They have a longer shelf life than reagents. While they may not
tell you that your water is actually pH 7.15, they will register a 7.2 and
that is the kind of accuracy you will get with the reagent based kits.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of seleya8@...
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 4:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Please Help!!!!!


In a message dated 1/1/2006 3:31:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Iksnip@...
writes:

<<<I need help with several issues as, last night, 85% of my 75 gallon tank

died. I've had the tank cycling around a month and, according to water
tests
done by pet smart, by #'s were fine. I just ran tests myself with Fresh
Water Master Test Kit and my #'s actually look ugly. According to these
tests
results, which contradict a test result from the store my results are (if I

read this correctly)

Ph level 7.2
Nitrite .25-.50 mg/l
Nitrate 5 mg/l
Ammonmia 2.0 mg/l.>>>



Sorry about your losses. With a month under its belt, your tank was
probably
a little better than halfway through its cycle. PetSmart, and most stores
like it, only test water with the test strips, which tend to be pretty
inaccurate -- and often *quite* inaccurate when the store uses past date
stuff. Most
fish aren't going to live long when popped into a tank with those numbers,
so
what happened is not unexpected. Keep testing the water and perform water
changes to keep the fish you still have healthy and allow the tank to
complete
its cycle. Only then, when your ammonia and nitrite are both consistently
at
0, can you consider slowly adding more fish.

When did you add the original fish? You mentioned you had them for a few
days. How long has the tank had fish in it?

One thing you've obviously learned already is to research fish before
buying. Too many fish stores of various types are too involved with selling
fish
than educating their patrons. IMO, a well educated, happy customer is more
likely to come back repeatedly to spend more money rather than the person
who is
unhappy because they dump some money into trying, have major losses and
give
up. Go figure.

Vicky


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16200 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Ken,

The water sample you brought to PetSmart may have tested as they said. You
do not indicated doing the tests yourself prior to adding the new fish and
plants to the tank, only after the disaster. Had you done the tests prior to
the store doing them, they could have confirmed your readings.

Now, let's step back and take a look at your situation. You set up a new 75
gallon tank. Unless you added ammonia yourself, the tank did not start to
cycle until you added your first fish. There are, basically two schools of
thought regarding tank cycling. One is to use fish, and gradually increase
the population thus creating a series of mini-cycles as the bacterial
colonies grow to process the load in the tank. The other is known as
fishless cycling where ammonia is added to the tank instead of fish. Enough
ammonia is added to bring the level to 5.0 ppm Ammonia is added everyday
until it is processed by the bacteria. Then you add fish.

When you added your first fish, you started the tank's cycle. Your ammonia
level started to increase, and would have peaked at a certain point. At that
time the nitrites would be spiking. Once the nitrites reached 0.0 ppm, your
cycle would have been complete. Then you could start adding fish gradually,
watching your ammonia and nitrite levels as you do so. Once they settle
down, you can add a few more fish and so on, until you reach the stocking
level you wish or the limit of the tank.

I'd suggest that who ever took the tests of your water sample had a more
liberal view of what is OK than what may be warranted. The only OK for
ammonia is 0.0. However, not having your tests as a comparison, we will not
know. From now on, do the testing yourself, and make sure your reagents are
not out of date. If an expiration date is not listed, assume they are and
get test kits that do have an expiration date. When your ammonia and
nitrites are both 0 and stay that way for a few days, consider adding a few
more fish. You should note a rise in your ammonia followed by a rise in your
nitrites. They should not be great. When things zero out again, and stay
that way, a few more fish would be in order.

I've no idea of what may be a good shop in your area, but
http://www.planet-pets.com/shopsflofl.htm should give you a start. You'll
need to determine the good ones yourself. Also
http://www.angelshatchery.com/ looks to be pretty good, but it specializes
in koi and African cichlids, however, they might be able to recommend a good
general store for you.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Iksnip@...
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 3:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Please Help!!!!!

Hi Guys,

I need help with several issues as, last night, 85% of my 75 gallon tank
died. I've had the tank cycling around a month and, according to water
tests done by pet smart, by #'s were fine. I just ran tests myself with
Fresh Water Master Test Kit and my #'s actually look ugly. According to
these tests results, which contradict a test result from the store my
results are (if I read this correctly)

Ph level 7.2
Nitrite .25-.50 mg/l
Nitrate 5 mg/l
Ammonmia 2.0 mg/l.

So, obviously these #'s are awful (except the ph is fine). First, I live in
Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Can someone recommend a good LFS with knowledge
people...right now I have used a pet smart, pet supermarket, and one LFS,
and frankly, they are all idiots. For example, I wanted to purcahse one
fish and they said it was peaceful. Looked it up, ummmm hell no.

Okay, so I had a few fish in the tank for afew days ( 2 cory's, 2 glass cat
fish, 6 mollies, and 7 neon tetras) and really they were doing okay with, I
assume, the numbers my tests generated today. However, yesterday I added a
beautuiful gold nugget pleco, 4 black neon tetra's, some amazon sword
plants, combada plants, and a 4 blood fin tetras. I woke up this morning
and, everything, but the 2 cory's, 2 dalmation mollies, and 2 blood fin
tetra's were all dead.

Obviously, I am not going to add anything until this tank stablizes. Can
someone recommend anything?

PLEASE HELP!

Ken
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16201 From: Patrick Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Something makes me doubt that real scientists use aquarium-grade test
strips, and if they do, I highly doubt they keep them like the folks at the
fish store, out in the open and exposed to the elements. :)

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

Vicky,

Why do you claim the test strips are inaccurate? They are used in labs all
the time. They have a longer shelf life than reagents. While they may not
tell you that your water is actually pH 7.15, they will register a 7.2 and
that is the kind of accuracy you will get with the reagent based kits.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16202 From: Patrick Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Nitrates at 5ppm mean that your tank is almost done with the initial cycle,
so that is good. The high ammonia and nitrite readings mean that you aren't
quite there yet. Do a 50% water change, test every other day, and change
again when ammonia hits 2 again. And don't add any more fish for a few
weeks.

Patrick
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariumdebates


----- Original Message -----
From: <Iksnip@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 2:30 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Please Help!!!!!


Hi Guys,

I need help with several issues as, last night, 85% of my 75 gallon tank
died. I've had the tank cycling around a month and, according to water
tests done by pet smart, by #'s were fine. I just ran tests myself with
Fresh Water Master Test Kit and my #'s actually look ugly. According to
these tests results, which contradict a test result from the store my
results are (if I read this correctly)

Ph level 7.2
Nitrite .25-.50 mg/l
Nitrate 5 mg/l
Ammonmia 2.0 mg/l.

So, obviously these #'s are awful (except the ph is fine). First, I live in
Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Can someone recommend a good LFS with knowledge
people...right now I have used a pet smart, pet supermarket, and one LFS,
and frankly, they are all idiots. For example, I wanted to purcahse one
fish and they said it was peaceful. Looked it up, ummmm hell no.

Okay, so I had a few fish in the tank for afew days ( 2 cory's, 2 glass cat
fish, 6 mollies, and 7 neon tetras) and really they were doing okay with, I
assume, the numbers my tests generated today. However, yesterday I added a
beautuiful gold nugget pleco, 4 black neon tetra's, some amazon sword
plants, combada plants, and a 4 blood fin tetras. I woke up this morning
and, everything, but the 2 cory's, 2 dalmation mollies, and 2 blood fin
tetra's were all dead.

Obviously, I am not going to add anything until this tank stablizes. Can
someone recommend anything?

PLEASE HELP!

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16203 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/1/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help!!!!!
Patrick,

The same suppliers make the same strips for both lab and aquarist use. (And
I am not talking about the old pH tapes.)

True, the scientists may have slightly different storage procedures <g>.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patrick
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 10:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Please Help!!!!!

Something makes me doubt that real scientists use aquarium-grade test
strips, and if they do, I highly doubt they keep them like the folks at the
fish store, out in the open and exposed to the elements. :)

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

Vicky,

Why do you claim the test strips are inaccurate? They are used in labs all
the time. They have a longer shelf life than reagents. While they may not
tell you that your water is actually pH 7.15, they will register a 7.2 and
that is the kind of accuracy you will get with the reagent based kits.

\\Steve//



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16204 From: shailendra Indulkar Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Artificial sea water : m rosenbergii hatchery
G r e e t i n g s


Hello,

I am looking formula and references on Artificial Sea Water

for m.rosenbergii hatchery

Any clues please?

ManyThanks,
indulkarshailu@...
Nigeria
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16205 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: Artificial sea water : m rosenbergii hatchery
Have you Googled "artificial seawater"? First hit gives one formula. Third
hit also gives a formula.

Rather than mixing it yourself, you may wish to purchase commercial mixes,
which will probably work out to be less expensive and more reliable than
making your own mix.

Since it appears that these freshwater prawn need only brackish water, you
may be able to get away with using Epsom salts to make the water. You would
need to experiment with this approach, though, as it may be lacking in a
needed component.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of shailendra Indulkar
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 5:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Artificial sea water : m rosenbergii hatchery

G r e e t i n g s


Hello,

I am looking formula and references on Artificial Sea Water

for m.rosenbergii hatchery

Any clues please?

ManyThanks,
indulkarshailu@...
Nigeria





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16206 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Again, but this time they didn't eat them.
I checked on them this and found four of the eggs turned white.
Is that good or bad?
If it is good, I have at least four hatchlings coming whenever
they hatch.
The rest of the eggs are not valid as they made no changes overnight.
I think it is the dad or the mom who is standing guard over them,
fanning them with fresh water.
They are keeping the other Angelfishes away from the nest.
I will later on today see about getting a picture of the pair to
show them off and maybe get a shot of where the nest is.

Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16207 From: wendie Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
It's been a long time since I've raised Angels but if I remember correctly
the white
eggs mean a fungus. The eggs should remain clear and eventually you will
see
development inside the eggs. Watching Mom and Dad take care of the eggs and
babies is a joy. Mine would actually take them on a tour of the tank and
show them
off. They'd wash them. Stick them back on the leaf at night... it was
really a show
to behold.
Wendie
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Beth Brownell
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 10:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.


Again, but this time they didn't eat them.
I checked on them this and found four of the eggs turned white.
Is that good or bad?
If it is good, I have at least four hatchlings coming whenever
they hatch.
The rest of the eggs are not valid as they made no changes overnight.
I think it is the dad or the mom who is standing guard over them,
fanning them with fresh water.
They are keeping the other Angelfishes away from the nest.
I will later on today see about getting a picture of the pair to
show them off and maybe get a shot of where the nest is.

Beth





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16208 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Beth,

The white eggs are no good. The white indicates that. They were either not
fertilized or they have fungused. You can probably expect that they will be
removed by the fish in a short while. This does not always occur, and they
can be removed with an eyedropper.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Beth Brownell
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 10:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.

Again, but this time they didn't eat them.
I checked on them this and found four of the eggs turned white.
Is that good or bad?
If it is good, I have at least four hatchlings coming whenever
they hatch.
The rest of the eggs are not valid as they made no changes overnight.
I think it is the dad or the mom who is standing guard over them,
fanning them with fresh water.
They are keeping the other Angelfishes away from the nest.
I will later on today see about getting a picture of the pair to
show them off and maybe get a shot of where the nest is.

Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16209 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Turning white means they have died or were infertile/not
fertilized in time...so...no...not good. They should pick
those off eventually. The key is not to overly disturb
the Angels as they could freak out and eat all the eggs.

Eric

On Mon, 02 Jan 2006 15:07:42 -0000
"Beth Brownell" <spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
> Again, but this time they didn't eat them.
> I checked on them this and found four of the eggs turned
>white.
> Is that good or bad?
> If it is good, I have at least four hatchlings coming
>whenever
> they hatch.
> The rest of the eggs are not valid as they made no
>changes overnight.
> I think it is the dad or the mom who is standing guard
>over them,
> fanning them with fresh water.
> They are keeping the other Angelfishes away from the
>nest.
> I will later on today see about getting a picture of the
>pair to
> show them off and maybe get a shot of where the nest is.
>
> Beth
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
>replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
>.·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that
>is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of
>the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
>subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
>.·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
>Terms of Service.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16210 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Well, I took six pictures of my mating pair and posted them on my
gallery page: http://desert.f-realm.com/gal/index.php?category=30
They are the last six pictures on the screen.
I hope to have at least, now that I know that the white eggs are
not valid fishes, a dozen hatchlings to come.
Anyways, what a way to start off the new year with some new
hatchlings. :)

Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16211 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
Well, all the eggs turned white so no new hatchlings for this month.

Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16212 From: Russell Date: 1/2/2006
Subject: my goldfish
my goldfish stays near the bottom of the tank. shell come up to eat
and go back doen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16213 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/3/2006
Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.
That’s sad Beth.



It probably means that none of the eggs were fertilized. Hope for the next
time. I have never had success with the eggs surviving in a community tank
so if you really do want them to breed again and get the fry growing, it
would be a good idea to setup a breeding tank for the parents alone.



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Beth Brownell
Sent: 02 January 2006 23:31
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last night.



Well, all the eggs turned white so no new hatchlings for this month.

Beth






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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charest+romania&w3=San+francisco+bay+area&w4=United+kingdom&w5=South+africa&
c=5&s=102&.sig=qkPFMHlXyRFUGeMMnP5r6Q> francisco bay area


United
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=United+kingdom&w1=Biology&w2=Bucharest+
romania&w3=San+francisco+bay+area&w4=United+kingdom&w5=South+africa&c=5&s=10
2&.sig=H3b2Q3LLNK6sakdMEZccgA> kingdom

South
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=South+africa&w1=Biology&w2=Bucharest+ro
mania&w3=San+francisco+bay+area&w4=United+kingdom&w5=South+africa&c=5&s=102&
.sig=fIKGg6IuoEuXo8z6-BELaw> africa





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16214 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/3/2006
Subject: Re: my goldfish
Russel,



What temperature are you keeping them at? At cold temperatures (10-14 C),
they will tend to behave this way as their metabolism is very slow.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Russell
Sent: 03 January 2006 00:14
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] my goldfish



my goldfish stays near the bottom of the tank. shell come up to eat
and go back doen





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16215 From: Treston Tyrues Date: 1/3/2006
Subject: Re: my goldfish
ABOUT 71 DEGREES.BUT U DONT HAVE TO WORRY IT DIED THIS MORNING

Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@...> wrote: Russel,



What temperature are you keeping them at? At cold temperatures (10-14 C),
they will tend to behave this way as their metabolism is very slow.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Russell
Sent: 03 January 2006 00:14
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] my goldfish



my goldfish stays near the bottom of the tank. shell come up to eat
and go back doen





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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16216 From: Subodh Chand Date: 1/3/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1082
It is rather difficult to raise angel fish. But the
process is very interesting. Firstly as suggested, you
should have a seperate tank for the angel pair. Keep
some vertical smooth surfaces like slate or even
plants like amazons large vallisnaria etc, which they
will clean and lay the eggs. Once they lay the eggs,
the male fish will stand next to them and keep fanning
the water over them. It would even pick up some of
them that keep falling down and stick them back. This
goes on and soon you will see the little fish on the
leaves still sticking with the tails wagging. At this
stage the adults should be removed asthey could eat
them up.
Next is the difficult part as they have to be fed. You
could check with the others what to feed them as I
have failed mostly after this part. They do not get
enough to eat or eat too much and gradually die. I
live in India where micro food is not available.
Daphnia just hatched fromeggs is supposed to be good.
Subodh

> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 23:30:34 -0000
> From: "Beth Brownell"
> <spencer_creek_studios@...>
> Subject: Re: My Angelfishes have laid eggs last
> night.
>
> Well, all the eggs turned white so no new hatchlings
> for this month.
>
> Beth
>




__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about.
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dsl.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16217 From: amit mhamane Date: 1/4/2006
Subject: Re: Happy New Year
Thank's may u too have a jubiliant year of 2006
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16219 From: Karen Date: 1/4/2006
Subject: New to group, brackish aquarium
hello, I want to set up a 55 gal aquarium as a brackish water tank for
Monos and scats. I have a lot of questions. Can anyone recommend a
book? Or what is the best temp? How many could I keep in this size
tank? How about mangrove plants are they safe with the fish? thanks,
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16220 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/4/2006
Subject: Re: New to group, brackish aquarium
"Brackish Aquariums" is the only book I know that is explicitly about
brackish tanks. The author is Michael Gos, I believe. It is a TFH KW book,
and, most likely, out of print. You'll have to haunt used book stores to
find it (and possibly other gems). You could also ask on the Aquatic books
list here on Yahoo!, though it is usually pretty quiet or the Aquarium Hobby
Historical Society, again on Yahoo!, if anyone has a copy they would like to
sell you. There are a number of other books that cover brackish tanks in
passing, but usually, the information is not enough.

You are probably looking at temperatures in the upper 70"s to low 80's for
any of the commonly available brackish fish.

Scats will grow to 10-15" as adults, so you are looking at one scat, or,
with monos growing to 9.5", you may be able to keep two. These are as
adults. You may keep more when they are younger, but you'll need to know
what you are going to do with them as they grow older and larger. There are
a number of other fish that will live in brackish water--mollies are one,
and there are a number of other livebearers that you can keep in brackish
environs. There are a number of goby species that require brackish waters,
and some real oddballs in the way of mudskippers and _Anableps_ spp. There
are even some killifish that require brackish water.

Mangroves will do well in brackish water. It is one of their natural
habitats, and there are many fish that live among the roots.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Karen
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 9:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to group, brackish aquarium

hello, I want to set up a 55 gal aquarium as a brackish water tank for
Monos and scats. I have a lot of questions. Can anyone recommend a
book? Or what is the best temp? How many could I keep in this size
tank? How about mangrove plants are they safe with the fish? thanks,
Karen







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16221 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
1.) Food:

Food for commercial fish breeders (Tilapia etc.) is many times
cheaper than ornamental fish food.

Does it really pay to buy those tiny ornamental fish food packages
with their almost homeopathic doses and their medicine-like prices,
or could one buy for instance a 25 kg sack of commercial fish food?

(I talked with a semi-professional ornamental fish breeder: He does
precisely this: He always buys food for non-ornamental fish!)

2.) Aquarium design:

I learnt to design the Aquarium, as if it were a "waterscape"
(landscape would sound somewhat absurd). That is the design should
transmit the feeling that the aquarium is a natural, although
artificial, ecosystem.

Now I restarted aquarism more in a freestyle way.

So my actual 20 Gal tank is subdivided in a natural place, where I
put some pebbles from a local river, a cleaning place, where I left
nothing on the ground and where water currents accumulate debris
which I then clean, and a "photosynthesis place" where I put a
Valisneria and a Elodea in a clay pot, there is also a guppy baby
hiding place, where I put lots of floating plants (Salvinia and that
stuff).

But the aquarium does not look natural at all. It is just functional.

Is there any stream in aquarium design which promotes such thinking?

3.) Guppies: Are guppies viviparous or ovoviviparous? Until what age
can they be cannibalized by their own species? (I think only in the
very first few hours or day or so?)

best wishes from Brazil, Thomas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16222 From: paul helms Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
guppies can be cannibalized as long as they fit in
the other fishes mouth.

--- Thomas Schlemmermeyer <evolthomas@...> wrote:

>
> 1.) Food:
>
> Food for commercial fish breeders (Tilapia etc.) is
> many times
> cheaper than ornamental fish food.
>
> Does it really pay to buy those tiny ornamental fish
> food packages
> with their almost homeopathic doses and their
> medicine-like prices,
> or could one buy for instance a 25 kg sack of
> commercial fish food?
>
> (I talked with a semi-professional ornamental fish
> breeder: He does
> precisely this: He always buys food for
> non-ornamental fish!)
>
> 2.) Aquarium design:
>
> I learnt to design the Aquarium, as if it were a
> "waterscape"
> (landscape would sound somewhat absurd). That is the
> design should
> transmit the feeling that the aquarium is a natural,
> although
> artificial, ecosystem.
>
> Now I restarted aquarism more in a freestyle way.
>
> So my actual 20 Gal tank is subdivided in a natural
> place, where I
> put some pebbles from a local river, a cleaning
> place, where I left
> nothing on the ground and where water currents
> accumulate debris
> which I then clean, and a "photosynthesis place"
> where I put a
> Valisneria and a Elodea in a clay pot, there is also
> a guppy baby
> hiding place, where I put lots of floating plants
> (Salvinia and that
> stuff).
>
> But the aquarium does not look natural at all. It is
> just functional.
>
> Is there any stream in aquarium design which
> promotes such thinking?
>
> 3.) Guppies: Are guppies viviparous or
> ovoviviparous? Until what age
> can they be cannibalized by their own species? (I
> think only in the
> very first few hours or day or so?)
>
> best wishes from Brazil, Thomas
>
>
>
>




__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about.
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16223 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
Thomas,

Buying food in bulk makes sense, if you are going to use it fairly quickly.
As soon as you open the package, a slow deterioration sets it (it will also
go stale while sealed--but open it goes faster). If you buy a pound of
flake, and it lasts you two years--that is way too much food to be buying,
and your fishes health will also show it. On the other hand, if you finish
it off in 2 months, then you probably have the right amount. Buying in bulk
may not save you money.

As far as aquascaping goes ("waterscaping"), check out the AGA site for
planted tanks ( http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/ ). You can wander about
the site, but to get to the pictures quickly, click on Aquascaping Contest.
You'll see pictures of the tank, a plant list for the tank, a diagram of the
tank, a description of the tank (size, fish, etc.) and comments from the
judges. There are a number of books out covering the topic and many sites
giving good, bad, and/or mediocre advice on the web. It takes some talent to
do a tank well, and practice may help (but not according to those who know
my tanks <g>).

I don't recall, off the top of my head which type of livebearer the guppy
is--I'd need to look it up--but, I'd tend to go with viviparous. Adults will
cannibalize the young, given the opportunity, as will other fish, and the
other fish may even eat the adult guppies.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Thomas Schlemmermeyer
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 11:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies


1.) Food:

Food for commercial fish breeders (Tilapia etc.) is many times
cheaper than ornamental fish food.

Does it really pay to buy those tiny ornamental fish food packages
with their almost homeopathic doses and their medicine-like prices,
or could one buy for instance a 25 kg sack of commercial fish food?

(I talked with a semi-professional ornamental fish breeder: He does
precisely this: He always buys food for non-ornamental fish!)

2.) Aquarium design:

I learnt to design the Aquarium, as if it were a "waterscape"
(landscape would sound somewhat absurd). That is the design should
transmit the feeling that the aquarium is a natural, although
artificial, ecosystem.

Now I restarted aquarism more in a freestyle way.

So my actual 20 Gal tank is subdivided in a natural place, where I
put some pebbles from a local river, a cleaning place, where I left
nothing on the ground and where water currents accumulate debris
which I then clean, and a "photosynthesis place" where I put a
Valisneria and a Elodea in a clay pot, there is also a guppy baby
hiding place, where I put lots of floating plants (Salvinia and that
stuff).

But the aquarium does not look natural at all. It is just functional.

Is there any stream in aquarium design which promotes such thinking?

3.) Guppies: Are guppies viviparous or ovoviviparous? Until what age
can they be cannibalized by their own species? (I think only in the
very first few hours or day or so?)

best wishes from Brazil, Thomas





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16224 From: Chris Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: New to group, brackish aquarium
That book is available 2nd hand on Amazon (and there is a photo so
you can more easily recognise it if you're in 'real' shops) at:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0876665199/qid=1136511195/sr=8-
5/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i5_xgl14/002-7897316-0995204?
n=507846&s=books&v=glance

I also have a copy if you have any questions, although I don't think
I want to part with it! :)

I love monos and scats. I've never kept them, but having worked in a
few aquarium stores I feel like I have. They are from northern
Australia (and probably elsewhere, but these guys are local to me)
and there are several other fish that can handle brackish waters. A
good site or book on Australian freshwater fish will help you out
with this.

As a side note, Australia has alot of fish classed as "freshwater" by
most authors because they spend some of their life cycle in
freshwater. In many cases though, they are quite able to spend their
entire lifetime in brackish water.

Anyway - one of the fish I can recommend is the archer fish (Toxotes
jaculator) - you may have heard of it - it has a groove in the roof
of it's mouth and by closing it's mouth it is able to squirt water
from the surface so as to shoot down prey which may be flying past or
located on overhanging plants.

In my opinion, the archer fish has to be *the* most entertaining fish
I've ever owned. In the aquarium though it doesn't have much
opportunity for shooting down prey (unless you really build something
special for them). The ones I've kept have, however, jumped out of
the water (albeit hitting the glass lids) to catch live flies that
I've put in the tank.

There are some animations of archer fish here:
http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_pages/brackish_water/archer_fish.h
tm

That page mentions there are 6 recognised species but I believe this
is currently being revised to either 7 or 8. Either way, Toxotes
jaculator is the one you'll most likely encounter in the aquarium
industry.

Monos, scats and archer fish are all quite robust, strong fish. They
will eat little fish.

Chris.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@l...> wrote:
>
> "Brackish Aquariums" is the only book I know that is explicitly
about
> brackish tanks. The author is Michael Gos, I believe. It is a TFH
KW book,
> and, most likely, out of print. You'll have to haunt used book
stores to
> find it (and possibly other gems). You could also ask on the
Aquatic books
> list here on Yahoo!, though it is usually pretty quiet or the
Aquarium Hobby
> Historical Society, again on Yahoo!, if anyone has a copy they
would like to
> sell you. There are a number of other books that cover brackish
tanks in
> passing, but usually, the information is not enough.
>
> You are probably looking at temperatures in the upper 70"s to low
80's for
> any of the commonly available brackish fish.
>
> Scats will grow to 10-15" as adults, so you are looking at one
scat, or,
> with monos growing to 9.5", you may be able to keep two. These are
as
> adults. You may keep more when they are younger, but you'll need to
know
> what you are going to do with them as they grow older and larger.
There are
> a number of other fish that will live in brackish water--mollies
are one,
> and there are a number of other livebearers that you can keep in
brackish
> environs. There are a number of goby species that require brackish
waters,
> and some real oddballs in the way of mudskippers and _Anableps_
spp. There
> are even some killifish that require brackish water.
>
> Mangroves will do well in brackish water. It is one of their natural
> habitats, and there are many fish that live among the roots.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Karen
> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 9:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New to group, brackish aquarium
>
> hello, I want to set up a 55 gal aquarium as a brackish water tank
for
> Monos and scats. I have a lot of questions. Can anyone recommend
a
> book? Or what is the best temp? How many could I keep in this size
> tank? How about mangrove plants are they safe with the fish?
thanks,
> Karen
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16225 From: Chris Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
Hello again Thomas.

This site lists Family Poeciliidae as ovoviviparous (eggs hatch
internally to the female resulting in live young being born):

http://habitatnews.nus.edu.sg/guidebooks/freshfish/text/224.htm

and this site lists Poeciliidae as viviparous (that is, true live
young, no egg at any stage):

http://www.praphan.com/farm/

Fishbase (www.fishbase.org) actually lists egg diameter for Poecilia
reticulata at 1.7mm which supports the ovoviviparous view (at:
http://www.fishbase.org/Reproduction/FishEggMorphologySummary.cfm?
&GenusName=Poecilia&SpeciesName=reticulata&stockcode=3424)

The type species for the Poecilia genus is "Poecilia vivipara"
(http://www.fishbase.org/Eschmeyer/GeneraSummary.cfm?ID=Poecilia) -
but this doesn't imply anything about P. reticulata.

I cannot find a definite statement on the fishbase site however as to
whether P. reticulata is viviparous or ovoviviparous - but either way
live young are born.

Regarding the question of young being eaten, as mentioned, if they
fit in the adults' mouths, they can be eaten. The best way to avoid
this is to have a large amount of plants which have fine leaves.
Elodea is great
(*http://www.ecy.wa.gov/programs/wq/plants/native/elodea.html).

Forget "breeder boxes" which only stress both the mother and young.

I think the reputation for "only the first few hours" is because when
they young are first born, they sometimes do not move for a few
minutes and people think that once they start swimming they won't get
eaten. Generally this is true, but fine-leaved plants are your best
bet.

Regarding tank design then - my personal opinion is it doesn't really
matter how the tank looks to you, the only thing I would place
importance on is being "humane" to the fish. Many shops have
completely bare tanks - just glass - and argue that the fish do not
spend long there before being sold, which is absolute rubbish, and
even if true I still think this environment would stress most fish.

If the purpose of a tank is for display, make it look beautiful. If
it's for breeding or research, make it functional, but give
consideration to fish being stressed in sparse tanks. Have potted
plants if you want a bare bottom tank (no gravel) for example.

Regarding food - it's already been mentioned - buy bulk to save
money, but the food deteriorates over time. A great option if you're
breeding guppies (and I think you are) is to put some containers of
water outside, maybe even with a potted water plant in each. within a
few weeks you will have insects breeding in there (eg mosquitoes,
etc). I wouldn't transfer any water from there into your tanks (ie
filter the water through a net or cloth to separate the bugs), but
certainly I'd feed the larvae to the fish. If you have to be really
strict about introducing pests, then freeze the larvae for a few days
first. Once you get a routine going you've got quick easy access to
great fish food.

Chat again soon!

Chris.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas Schlemmermeyer"
<evolthomas@y...> wrote:
>
>
> 1.) Food:
>
> Food for commercial fish breeders (Tilapia etc.) is many times
> cheaper than ornamental fish food.
>
> Does it really pay to buy those tiny ornamental fish food packages
> with their almost homeopathic doses and their medicine-like prices,
> or could one buy for instance a 25 kg sack of commercial fish food?
>
> (I talked with a semi-professional ornamental fish breeder: He does
> precisely this: He always buys food for non-ornamental fish!)
>
> 2.) Aquarium design:
>
> I learnt to design the Aquarium, as if it were a "waterscape"
> (landscape would sound somewhat absurd). That is the design should
> transmit the feeling that the aquarium is a natural, although
> artificial, ecosystem.
>
> Now I restarted aquarism more in a freestyle way.
>
> So my actual 20 Gal tank is subdivided in a natural place, where I
> put some pebbles from a local river, a cleaning place, where I left
> nothing on the ground and where water currents accumulate debris
> which I then clean, and a "photosynthesis place" where I put a
> Valisneria and a Elodea in a clay pot, there is also a guppy baby
> hiding place, where I put lots of floating plants (Salvinia and
that
> stuff).
>
> But the aquarium does not look natural at all. It is just
functional.
>
> Is there any stream in aquarium design which promotes such thinking?
>
> 3.) Guppies: Are guppies viviparous or ovoviviparous? Until what
age
> can they be cannibalized by their own species? (I think only in the
> very first few hours or day or so?)
>
> best wishes from Brazil, Thomas
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16226 From: Chris Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: New to group, brackish aquarium
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@l...> wrote:
> Scats will grow to 10-15" as adults, so you are looking at one scat,
or,
> with monos growing to 9.5", you may be able to keep two. These are as
> adults. You may keep more when they are younger, but you'll need to
know
> what you are going to do with them as they grow older and larger.


If I've got my numbers right, I'd have a different opinion on this.
Can you confirm that 55gal = 5'x18"x14"? which here in Sydney you'd
call a standard 5 foot tank of about 210 litres. Again, I haven't kept
these fish, but I don't see why you couldn't keep 6 to 12 fish (mixed
species of monos and scats) in a 5 foot tank like this? Is there a
particular reason you suggest only 1 or 2 fish?

Thanks,

Chris.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16227 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/5/2006
Subject: Re: New to group, brackish aquarium
Chris,

Simply put, bioload and turning ability. A 55 gallon here in the states is
48" l x 12.5" w x 21" h. A 15" fish will have a problem turning in a 12"
diameter circle. Both monos and scats are deep bodied fish. Both have
relatively meaty diets--lots of protein, lots of ammonia. Quite often you
see them smaller than the lengths I've quoted, but they do get to be that
size, if they have the proper care and growing room. You can start off with
several, but as they grow, you'll need to cull or get a larger tank for
them. If you want several fish in the tank, there are many other good
options for brackish fish that do not grow as large.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 10:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to group, brackish aquarium

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@l...> wrote:
> Scats will grow to 10-15" as adults, so you are looking at one scat,
or,
> with monos growing to 9.5", you may be able to keep two. These are as
> adults. You may keep more when they are younger, but you'll need to
know
> what you are going to do with them as they grow older and larger.


If I've got my numbers right, I'd have a different opinion on this.
Can you confirm that 55gal = 5'x18"x14"? which here in Sydney you'd
call a standard 5 foot tank of about 210 litres. Again, I haven't kept
these fish, but I don't see why you couldn't keep 6 to 12 fish (mixed
species of monos and scats) in a 5 foot tank like this? Is there a
particular reason you suggest only 1 or 2 fish?

Thanks,

Chris.





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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16228 From: Karen Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Brackish Aquarium
Hello and thank you for the replies to my post. I am going to look
for that book. After doing some research on the web I think I am
going to look at a 75 gal tank instead of a 55. I really wanted two
Monos and 2 scats and I don't want to have to get rid of them because
they get to large. I am a filtration freak and run a cannister and a
wet dry along with a protein skimmer. I was going to "start" the tank
with mollies before I got the fish I really wanted because the local
pet store will take them back when I don't want them any more. I am
going to look at the archer fish too sounds like a fun fish. Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16229 From: KttmfC Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Saltwater fish only
I am planning on a saltwater fish only tank... my question is about 2
things, protein skimmer and lighting. Would the fish only require the
same lighting as a reef? and do i need a skimmer? what are the
advantages and disacdvantages please anyone. Ive done the reef thing
and loved it but it got costly for the type of corals i wanted to keep
so... any help would be awesome.

thanks
Kris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16231 From: Tara Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: guppies
Hi! I have a 29 gallon tank and just bought 2 female guppies today.
About 2 hours after getting them home, one of them had 3 babies. The
other guppy is pregnant but not sure when she will have the babies.
Can someone tell me how long they are pregnant? Thank you!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16233 From: Patrick Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Forever. :)

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

Hi! I have a 29 gallon tank and just bought 2 female guppies today.
About 2 hours after getting them home, one of them had 3 babies. The
other guppy is pregnant but not sure when she will have the babies.
Can someone tell me how long they are pregnant? Thank you!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16234 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
sometimes guppys seem to pregnant all there lives :-) A lot of Livebearers
( guppies especially ) can get pregnant over and over again without a male
being present in the tank. I once had a female guppy have 4 spawnings in a 10
gallon tank without a male ever being present....

I think the gestation period is 40 days ( I know I'm wrong ) usually when the
gravid spot is all the way to the back and the belly looks like its ready to
POP, you are close usually a day or two from birth.

just wait your 29 gallon tank will be full in 6 months of guppies.

Robert Renfro
NE Indiana
http://midwestcichlid.com

In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:39:36 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
fad51@... writes:


> Hi! I have a 29 gallon tank and just bought 2 female guppies today.
> About 2 hours after getting them home, one of them had 3 babies. The
> other guppy is pregnant but not sure when she will have the babies.
> Can someone tell me how long they are pregnant? Thank you!
>









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16235 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: What IS 0EM Software And Why D0 You Care?/Luis
WAY TO GO HARRY ....a moderator who moderates...
& Fast on the Ban button :-)

I like it.............. keep up the good work

Robert Renfro
NE Indiana
http://midwestcichlid.com


In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:59:17 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
harryfisherman@... writes:


> This group is not your marketplace. You have been banned from this group.
>
> Harry a moderator.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16236 From: Laura Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Call me ignorant....but HOW does a female get pregnant without a male in
sight??? That doesnt make sense to me....unless you are saying that
sarcastically and I didnt catch it?
Laura



If you give up when it's winter, you will miss the promise of your spring,
the beauty of your summer, and the fulfillment of your fall.


-------Original Message-------

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Date: 01/06/06 21:12:24
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppies

sometimes guppys seem to pregnant all there lives :-) A lot of Livebearers

( guppies especially ) can get pregnant over and over again without a male
being present in the tank. I once had a female guppy have 4 spawnings in a
10
gallon tank without a male ever being present....

I think the gestation period is 40 days ( I know I'm wrong ) usually when
the
gravid spot is all the way to the back and the belly looks like its ready to

POP, you are close usually a day or two from birth.

just wait your 29 gallon tank will be full in 6 months of guppies.

Robert Renfro
NE Indiana
http://midwestcichlid.com

In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:39:36 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
fad51@... writes:


> Hi! I have a 29 gallon tank and just bought 2 female guppies today.
> About 2 hours after getting them home, one of them had 3 babies. The
> other guppy is pregnant but not sure when she will have the babies.
> Can someone tell me how long they are pregnant? Thank you!
>









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16237 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
without knowing how to say this nicely .. I'll just say it.

Females Hold sperm inside them to be used for fertalization. sometimes in the
wild a female can go a long time before running into a male, so they have
adapted at storing it and using it later.


Robert Renfro
NE Indiana
http://midwestcichlid.com


In a message dated 1/6/2006 10:15:31 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
llmdolphin@... writes:


> Call me ignorant....but HOW does a female get pregnant without a male in
> sight??? That doesnt make sense to me....unless you are saying that
> sarcastically and I didnt catch it?
>
> Laura






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16238 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
In a message dated 1/6/2006 10:15:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
llmdolphin@... writes:

<<<Call me ignorant....but HOW does a female get pregnant without a male in
sight??? That doesnt make sense to me....unless you are saying that
sarcastically and I didnt catch it?>>>


No, a male is in the equation, but he can go away and the female will have
enough of his sperm stored up to have subsequent litters. She can get bred, he
can be removed, she will have her first litter in 60ish days, then another,
and another and another..... I believe around 6ish litters without being
inseminated again. Of course, this can wreak havoc with a breeding program. ;-)

Vicky







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16239 From: Patrick Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Nope, they can store the genetic material in their bodies for months after
their last encounter with a male, allowing them to make new guppies every
month or 40 days. Same is true for many of the other popular livebearers.

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

Call me ignorant....but HOW does a female get pregnant without a male in
sight??? That doesnt make sense to me....unless you are saying that
sarcastically and I didnt catch it?
Laura
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16240 From: Laura Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Pretty cool adaptation...thanks for the education

laura



If you give up when it's winter, you will miss the promise of your spring,
the beauty of your summer, and the fulfillment of your fall.


-------Original Message-------

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Date: 01/06/06 21:18:49
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppies

without knowing how to say this nicely .. I'll just say it.

Females Hold sperm inside them to be used for fertalization. sometimes in
the
wild a female can go a long time before running into a male, so they have
adapted at storing it and using it later.


Robert Renfro
NE Indiana
http://midwestcichlid.com


In a message dated 1/6/2006 10:15:31 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
llmdolphin@... writes:


> Call me ignorant....but HOW does a female get pregnant without a male in
> sight??? That doesnt make sense to me....unless you are saying that
> sarcastically and I didnt catch it?
>
> Laura






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16241 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
lol...seems like it...but it sure keeps my angels happy *grin*

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patrick
Sent: Friday, 06 January 2006 20:48
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppies


Forever. :)

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

Hi! I have a 29 gallon tank and just bought 2 female guppies today.
About 2 hours after getting them home, one of them had 3 babies. The
other guppy is pregnant but not sure when she will have the babies.
Can someone tell me how long they are pregnant? Thank you!




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16242 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
wooohoo...little Jesus fish *snicker* Seriously...some critters can
reproduce asexually...some will also change sex if one sex is either missing
or rare. This is just guesses. it could also be that they were already
pregnant when you bought them...

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Laura
Sent: Friday, 06 January 2006 21:13
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppies


Call me ignorant....but HOW does a female get pregnant without a male in
sight??? That doesnt make sense to me....unless you are saying that
sarcastically and I didnt catch it?
Laura



If you give up when it's winter, you will miss the promise of your spring,
the beauty of your summer, and the fulfillment of your fall.


-------Original Message-------

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Date: 01/06/06 21:12:24
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppies

sometimes guppys seem to pregnant all there lives :-) A lot of Livebearers

( guppies especially ) can get pregnant over and over again without a male
being present in the tank. I once had a female guppy have 4 spawnings in a
10
gallon tank without a male ever being present....

I think the gestation period is 40 days ( I know I'm wrong ) usually when
the
gravid spot is all the way to the back and the belly looks like its ready to

POP, you are close usually a day or two from birth.

just wait your 29 gallon tank will be full in 6 months of guppies.

Robert Renfro
NE Indiana
http://midwestcichlid.com

In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:39:36 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
fad51@... writes:


> Hi! I have a 29 gallon tank and just bought 2 female guppies today.
> About 2 hours after getting them home, one of them had 3 babies. The
> other guppy is pregnant but not sure when she will have the babies.
> Can someone tell me how long they are pregnant? Thank you!
>









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16243 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
cool...didn't know that. Cats do that too...they can also have kittens from
multiple males. Animals sure are interesting little critters hehehe

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patrick
Sent: Friday, 06 January 2006 21:20
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppies


Nope, they can store the genetic material in their bodies for months after
their last encounter with a male, allowing them to make new guppies every
month or 40 days. Same is true for many of the other popular livebearers.

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

Call me ignorant....but HOW does a female get pregnant without a male in
sight??? That doesnt make sense to me....unless you are saying that
sarcastically and I didnt catch it?
Laura



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16244 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
In a message dated 1/6/2006 10:43:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
woad@... writes:

<<<cool...didn't know that. Cats do that too...they can also have kittens
from
multiple males. Animals sure are interesting little critters hehehe>>>


Cats have a different mechanism than guppies. LOL As with any animal which
has multiple offspring at the same time, they can certainly be inseminated by
more than one male during a heat, but they don't store more semen for later.
;-)





This is a pretty cool adaptation many livebearers share. =)

Vicky


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16245 From: Evita Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Although very rare so can a person in the case when two eggs are dropped and she has more than one partner. Evita

seleya8@... wrote:
In a message dated 1/6/2006 10:43:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
woad@... writes:

<<<cool...didn't know that. Cats do that too...they can also have kittens
from
multiple males. Animals sure are interesting little critters hehehe>>>


Cats have a different mechanism than guppies. LOL As with any animal which
has multiple offspring at the same time, they can certainly be inseminated by
more than one male during a heat, but they don't store more semen for later.
;-)





This is a pretty cool adaptation many livebearers share. =)

Vicky


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16246 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Gestation in the guppy is approximately 28 days. This can vary with
temperature and the availability of food.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Tara
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 11:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] guppies

Hi! I have a 29 gallon tank and just bought 2 female guppies today.
About 2 hours after getting them home, one of them had 3 babies. The
other guppy is pregnant but not sure when she will have the babies.
Can someone tell me how long they are pregnant? Thank you!







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16247 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/6/2006
Subject: Re: guppies
Since Immaculate Conception has yet to be proven in guppies, the female, at
some point has had contact with a male. Guppies, and some other fish, have
the ability to store sperm until it can be used. I have read, but never
tested, that guppies can retain sperm for up to six months, meaning that ,
approximately, they can have up to six broods without seeing another male.
I'm sure there are factors that affect the length of time a female can
remain impregnated, but do not know for sure.

Serious breeders will remove males to another tank when the fry become
sexable to prevent unauthorized breeding.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Laura
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppies

Call me ignorant....but HOW does a female get pregnant without a male in
sight??? That doesnt make sense to me....unless you are saying that
sarcastically and I didnt catch it? Laura If you give up when it's
winter, you will miss the promise of your spring, the beauty of your
summer, and the fulfillment of your fall. -------Original Message-------
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Date: 01/06/06 21:12:24 To:
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppies sometimes
guppys seem to pregnant all there lives :-) A lot of Livebearers
( guppies especially ) can get pregnant over and over again without a male
being present in the tank. I once had a female guppy have 4 spawnings in a
10 gallon tank without a male ever being present.... I think the gestation
period is 40 days ( I know I'm wrong ) usually when
the gravid spot is all the way to the back and the belly looks like its
ready to
POP, you are close usually a day or two from birth. just wait your 29
gallon tank will be full in 6 months of guppies. Robert Renfro NE Indiana
http://midwestcichlid.com In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:39:36 PM US Eastern
Standard Time, fad51@... writes: > Hi! I have a 29 gallon tank
and just bought 2 female guppies today. > About 2 hours after getting them
home, one of them had 3 babies. The > other guppy is pregnant but not sure
when she will have the babies. > Can someone tell me how long they are
pregnant? Thank you! > [Non-text portions of this message have
been removed] Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
replying, thanks. ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
.·´¯`·..><((((º> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is
NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter. SPONSORED LINKS
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16248 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/7/2006
Subject: Re: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
But this kind of "mouth-fitness" seems to be a sort of dynamic one.

I have now three guppies, perhaps one week old, and sometimes they
swim right in front of the nose of the adults, without getting eaten.
Of course they swim away, when the adults try to eat them. But the
adults do not try to do this with very much effort.

But immediately after birth, the guppies are a sort of direct fresh
food, much more appreciated.

Oh, I see, there are now so many Guppy messages, I will try to read
them all...

best wishes, Thomas

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, paul helms <wtfmorlok@y...> wrote:
>
> guppies can be cannibalized as long as they fit in
> the other fishes mouth.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16249 From: rosette55@webtv.net Date: 1/7/2006
Subject: Re: Chysicthys Aratus
labelled this way in LFS, also called gold aluminum cat. tried to google
it and got no matches. can anyone tell me something about this fish?
thanks, samantha
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16250 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/7/2006
Subject: Re: Chysicthys Aratus
In a message dated 1/7/2006 11:18:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rosette55@... writes:

<<<labelled this way in LFS, also called gold aluminum cat. tried to google
it and got no matches. can anyone tell me something about this fish?>>>


Try Chrysichthys auratus. ;-)

Vicky








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16251 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/7/2006
Subject: Re: Chysicthys Aratus
Perhaps you mean _Chrysichthys auratus_? I don't see much in the way of
keeping this fish in aquaria, but there are a number of scientific papers
about various aspects of the fish.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rosette55@...
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 11:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Chysicthys Aratus

labelled this way in LFS, also called gold aluminum cat. tried to google
it and got no matches. can anyone tell me something about this fish?
thanks, samantha



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16252 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 1/8/2006
Subject: Angel tank mates?
I have someone wanting to give me two medium sized angel fish.

I have a 10 gal. with 3 small tetras, a beta and a cory cat. A 75 with
3 blood parrots, 2 giant danios, 1 large minnow of some sort, 1 large
firemouth, 1 small firemouth and 2 pictus cats.
Would either of these tanks work for the angels? I don't think they
will but I though I should ask first as I know nothing about angel fish.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16253 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/8/2006
Subject: Re: Angel tank mates?
The 10 will be too small for angels. I don't know about the 75, I don't have
any experience with those fish. Are these angels a pair or simply two? That
would also be a factor.

Vicky


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16254 From: KttmfC Date: 1/8/2006
Subject: trying again...
<):)im gonna try this again.... does anyone have any info on setting up a fish only saltwater tank? just basic stuff like what i have to use and what is ecommended but not required... thanks!8-}

Kris



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16255 From: Kevin Date: 1/8/2006
Subject: Re: trying again...
Fish-only saltwater tanks are alot like freshwater tanks, only with salt. You don't
necessarily have to have a protein skimmer like you do with a reef tank. I believe (don't
quote me on this) that you can use activated carbon with a fish-only tank, but never with a
reef tank. You could probably use an Eclipse hood/filter if you wanted.

When dealing with freshwater tanks, I always recommend live plants to help remove
nitrates from the water. Likewise, with fish-only saltwater tanks, I recommend the
addition of some macroalgae for the same reason. Prolific species like Halimeda &
Caulerpa are excellent for this purpose (just make sure Caulerpa is legal in your area). In
reef tanks these algae would soon smother corals, but thats not a concern in a fish-only
setup. Just make sure you have sufficient lighting.

Although its fish-only, I would recommend the addition of afew snails to eat algae off of
the glass. If you ever feel like trying a few other inverts, take it from me - mushroom
anemones are extremely hardy.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "KttmfC" <punk3r12@y...> wrote:
>
>
> <):)im gonna try this again.... does anyone have any info on setting up a fish only
saltwater tank? just basic stuff like what i have to use and what is ecommended but not
required... thanks!8-}
>
> Kris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16256 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: A few questions on food, aquarium design, and Guppies
I think this suggestion of breeding mosquito larvae in open tanks is an
environmental crime in Brazilian cities due to Dengue vectors?

But I will inform myself if there are any particular Brazilian methods
that avoid these particular dangers and prohibitions,

> few weeks you will have insects breeding in there (eg mosquitoes,
> etc). I wouldn't transfer any water from there into your tanks (ie
> filter the water through a net or cloth to separate the bugs), but
> certainly I'd feed the larvae to the fish. If you have to be really
> strict about introducing pests, then freeze the larvae for a few days
> first. Once you get a routine going you've got quick easy access to
> great fish food.
>
> Chat again soon!
>
> Chris.

best wishes and thanks for your answer, Thomas


>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16257 From: Karen Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: distilled water
Our city water is so bad I am thinking about buying distilled water to
fill my new tank. Do I have to "reconstitute" it in any way to make
it suitable for fish? Also would like to hear from anyone who has
ordered through Flying Fish. They have the fish I want but I have
never had them flown in before so wondering how well they do. Thanks,
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16258 From: Ivan White (Aqua-Hobbyist) Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Greetinsgs to you,

I am not too sure I would use distilled water, but filtered water. Distilled water is pretty empty, but filtered water will filter out the bad stuff. There should be a store there somewhere as there is where I live where you can buy filtered water from a machine, it is not expensive. Most machines give you a choice, filtered, where it filters out chlorine and heavy metals or distilled where it basically filters out everything. Now this is what I have been told from another person, I have never used distilled water.

Have fun now,

Ivan
Aqua-Hobbyist@...



----- Original Message -----
From: Karen
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 8:22 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] distilled water


Our city water is so bad I am thinking about buying distilled water to
fill my new tank. Do I have to "reconstitute" it in any way to make
it suitable for fish? Also would like to hear from anyone who has
ordered through Flying Fish. They have the fish I want but I have
never had them flown in before so wondering how well they do. Thanks,
Karen





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16259 From: Karen Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
-Hi, Thanks, I guess that is what I really meant. However some
people have told me that the water at groceries stores isn't really
all that "pure". I guess I could call deep rock and see if they will
sell water from their plant. I know it is RO. Karen-- In
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Ivan White \(Aqua-Hobbyist\)" <Aqua-
Hobbyist@a...> wrote:
>
> Greetinsgs to you,
>
> I am not too sure I would use distilled water, but filtered water.
Distilled water is pretty empty, but filtered water will filter out
the bad stuff. There should be a store there somewhere as there is
where I live where you can buy filtered water from a machine, it is
not expensive. Most machines give you a choice, filtered, where it
filters out chlorine and heavy metals or distilled where it basically
filters out everything. Now this is what I have been told from
another person, I have never used distilled water.
>
> Have fun now,
>
> Ivan
> Aqua-Hobbyist@a...
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Karen
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 8:22 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] distilled water
>
>
> Our city water is so bad I am thinking about buying distilled
water to
> fill my new tank. Do I have to "reconstitute" it in any way to
make
> it suitable for fish? Also would like to hear from anyone who
has
> ordered through Flying Fish. They have the fish I want but I
have
> never had them flown in before so wondering how well they do.
Thanks,
> Karen
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16260 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Molly question
I have a pregnant molly again and need to transfer her. The problem is that
I have two babies in the 2 gallon that I need to put into my 50. I don't
know if they are big enough to survive. They are about and inch long.
Thoughts?

Cynthia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16261 From: John Gonzalez Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Karen,
I use Distilled water from a local water delivery
service. I've had no problems with it. Once it's all
gone I normally go to a Rite-Aid by my place & get RO
water from a water dispenser. Hopefully they do a good
maintenance on their filters. So far so good. I have
no problems using that water supply.
-John

--- Karen <retroyello@...> wrote:

> -Hi, Thanks, I guess that is what I really meant.
> However some
> people have told me that the water at groceries
> stores isn't really
> all that "pure". I guess I could call deep rock and
> see if they will
> sell water from their plant. I know it is RO.
> Karen-- In
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Ivan White
> \(Aqua-Hobbyist\)" <Aqua-
> Hobbyist@a...> wrote:
> >
> > Greetinsgs to you,
> >
> > I am not too sure I would use distilled water, but
> filtered water.
> Distilled water is pretty empty, but filtered water
> will filter out
> the bad stuff. There should be a store there
> somewhere as there is
> where I live where you can buy filtered water from a
> machine, it is
> not expensive. Most machines give you a choice,
> filtered, where it
> filters out chlorine and heavy metals or distilled
> where it basically
> filters out everything. Now this is what I have
> been told from
> another person, I have never used distilled water.
> >
> > Have fun now,
> >
> > Ivan
> > Aqua-Hobbyist@a...
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Karen
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 8:22 AM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] distilled water
> >
> >
> > Our city water is so bad I am thinking about
> buying distilled
> water to
> > fill my new tank. Do I have to "reconstitute"
> it in any way to
> make
> > it suitable for fish? Also would like to hear
> from anyone who
> has
> > ordered through Flying Fish. They have the fish
> I want but I
> have
> > never had them flown in before so wondering how
> well they do.
> Thanks,
> > Karen
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
> when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all
> TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of
> the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject
> (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>




__________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16262 From: wendie Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: Molly question
What's in the 50? Any floating plants?
Wendie
Subject: [AquaticLife] Molly question


I have a pregnant molly again and need to transfer her. The problem is
that
I have two babies in the 2 gallon that I need to put into my 50. I don't
know if they are big enough to survive. They are about and inch long.
Thoughts?

Cynthia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16263 From: wendie Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Bottled water is okay but not distilled water.
Wendie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16264 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: Molly question
No floating, but tons of all kinds of others. They have doubled in size
since birth and they look too big to fit it any of the fishes mouths. I
have a big blue gourami, a large clown loach, some tetras, a bunch of other
mollies and some kuli loaches

Thanks so much!

Cynthia

http://babyitems.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=bag
----- Original Message -----
From: "wendie" <wendieo@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 2:16 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Molly question


What's in the 50? Any floating plants?
Wendie
Subject: [AquaticLife] Molly question


I have a pregnant molly again and need to transfer her. The problem is
that
I have two babies in the 2 gallon that I need to put into my 50. I don't
know if they are big enough to survive. They are about and inch long.
Thoughts?

Cynthia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16265 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Karen,

Yes, you will need to add the needed minerals and salts to the water. I do have some recipes for doing so, but, they are not on this computer. I'll see if I can find them when I get home, if they have not hit the bit heap in the ether.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Karen
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:22 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] distilled water

Our city water is so bad I am thinking about buying distilled water to fill my new tank. Do I have to "reconstitute" it in any way to make it suitable for fish? Also would like to hear from anyone who has ordered through Flying Fish. They have the fish I want but I have never had them flown in before so wondering how well they do. Thanks, Karen





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <- <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16266 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Karen
What are the bad parts of the water?
Is it just bad to the taste or does it have some other aspect that makes it unsuitable for your fish?

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Karen <retroyello@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 14:22:09 -0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] distilled water


Our city water is so bad I am thinking about buying distilled water to
fill my new tank. Do I have to "reconstitute" it in any way to make
it suitable for fish? Also would like to hear from anyone who has
ordered through Flying Fish. They have the fish I want but I have
never had them flown in before so wondering how well they do. Thanks,
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16267 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/9/2006
Subject: Re: Molly question
I'd keep an eye on the gourami, but you will probably be OK.

\\Steve//

> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Fred and Cynthia
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 3:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Molly question
>
> No floating, but tons of all kinds of others. They have
> doubled in size
> since birth and they look too big to fit it any of the fishes
> mouths. I
> have a big blue gourami, a large clown loach, some tetras, a
> bunch of other
> mollies and some kuli loaches
>
> Thanks so much!
>
> Cynthia
>
> http://babyitems.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName
> =album01&id=bag
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "wendie" <wendieo@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 2:16 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Molly question
>
>
> What's in the 50? Any floating plants?
> Wendie
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Molly question
>
>
> I have a pregnant molly again and need to transfer her.
> The problem is
> that
> I have two babies in the 2 gallon that I need to put into
> my 50. I don't
> know if they are big enough to survive. They are about and
> inch long.
> Thoughts?
>
> Cynthia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16268 From: Ivan White (Aqua-Hobbyist) Date: 1/10/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Hi,

Well there could be many bad things about some kinds of water depending on where the water came from. Heavy metals are not good, water that is too hard or too soft may not be good for some fish. chlorine is not good, some kinds of artesian well water is no good as that is what we have on farms in south dakota. Floride is not good, but not sure how it affects fish. So if your concerned about it, you should purchase filtered water, not distilled. There are many things about water that cold be harmful to fish, again, depending on where it comes from as not all water is the same. Quinine water is never good, smells like eggs as artesian water does and it is loaded with heavy chemicals, good for humans maybe, not good for fish.

There are many fish and marine products on the market that can take care of some of these things and help and I use them myself. Many of the these products such as black water extract help make the water like the south american fishes habitat.

Take care now

Ivan
Aqua-Hobbyist@...
----- Original Message -----
From: Deenerz@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] distilled water


Karen
What are the bad parts of the water?
Is it just bad to the taste or does it have some other aspect that makes it unsuitable for your fish?

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Karen <retroyello@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 14:22:09 -0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] distilled water


Our city water is so bad I am thinking about buying distilled water to
fill my new tank. Do I have to "reconstitute" it in any way to make
it suitable for fish? Also would like to hear from anyone who has
ordered through Flying Fish. They have the fish I want but I have
never had them flown in before so wondering how well they do. Thanks,
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16269 From: RUFUS BARR Date: 1/10/2006
Subject: Seagrass seeds
I'm trying to find seeds and more info on germination of seagrasses
(specifically Enhalus, Thalassia, and Halophila). Enhalus sometimes
called "sea fruit" is commonly washed up on beaches (or so I've been
told). If during collecting you should happen to find any, please
contact me.
I'm going to try germination and mariculture in closed system, land
locked, and on a students budget.

Gary Todd "Rufus" Barr
730 CR315
Rockdale, TX 76567
512-446-7931
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16270 From: Sean McQuilken Date: 1/10/2006
Subject: New Member
I recently joined the group. My primary interests in fish keeping is
breeding, however recently I have discovered a couple other aspects I
enjoy, working with planted tanks and photography of my tanks. I look
foward to discussing my interets with others. I currently have about 5
tanks setup. They contain everything from neon tetras to a large
adult, male convict cichlid.

Sean
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16271 From: DiOhio Date: 1/10/2006
Subject: strange Clown Knife behavior question
Hey group. Just wondering if anyone has ever heard of this strange behavior by a Clown Knife or by any fish for that matter.

First to give you some background, she is a Clown Knife of about 5 years old. I keep her in a 130 gal. aquarium with a 24" Irridescent Shark. She is about 20" long and she has dropped eggs 3 times that I know of since I bought her as a baby. She mainly eats live feeder goldfish but occasionaly I'll give her Hikari carnivore pellets for a change.

The strange behavior is every time I drop in the sinking carnivore pellets she immediately goes over to the pile of pellets and "marks" them. It looks like she is actually sticking out her egg tube and rubs it directly on the pellets as she passes over them. She does it every time. Sometimes she eats the pellets and sometimes she doesn't.

Anyone ever hear of this behavior before? Is she marking her food?

Diane

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16272 From: Karen Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Hi everyone and thanks for the responses. From what I understand
from our water company: chemicals have been added to the water to
make it unwise to use in fish tanks. Can't be more specific than
that I'm afraid. Since I will be taking some time to get this tank
set up I am checking into the water delivery companies. Might just
have it delivered every two weeks and use the "reconstitute". I have
seen several commercially advertised but if you have a better recipe
I would like to have it. I have been trying to find African Scats
but with no success so far. If anyone hears of a source I would love
to hear about. I did get a 75 gallon tank so eventually hope it will
house 2 to 3 each of Mono Sebae and either the African or green
scats. I have some other questions about cycling the tank but this
is getting long so I will stop for now. Karen--- In
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@l...> wrote:
>
> Karen,
>
> Yes, you will need to add the needed minerals and salts to the
water. I do have some recipes for doing so, but, they are not on this
computer. I'll see if I can find them when I get home, if they have
not hit the bit heap in the ether.
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16273 From: Patrick Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
The chemicals are EASILY removed with chlor out, stress coat, prime, aqua
safe, etc. There is no need to buy water unless your local water does not
meet EPA standards. In that case, send a sample to the EPA and your city
will go broke fixing the problem and paying fines. :)

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

Hi everyone and thanks for the responses. From what I understand
from our water company: chemicals have been added to the water to
make it unwise to use in fish tanks. Can't be more specific than
that I'm afraid. Since I will be taking some time to get this tank
set up I am checking into the water delivery companies. Might just
have it delivered every two weeks and use the "reconstitute". I have
seen several commercially advertised but if you have a better recipe
I would like to have it. I have been trying to find African Scats
but with no success so far. If anyone hears of a source I would love
to hear about. I did get a 75 gallon tank so eventually hope it will
house 2 to 3 each of Mono Sebae and either the African or green
scats. I have some other questions about cycling the tank but this
is getting long so I will stop for now. Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16274 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Karen,
read Patrick's post. I would bet it is probably just Chloramine and can
easily be dealt with with an over the counter water treatment like Prime or
Amquel. Have your local water company send you a letter with all the values for
the water and post it here and I think you will be probably not have to go
through the hassle of bottled water.
I understand you not wanting to jeopardise your fish, but Chloramine and
chlorine are in most if not all major water municipalities. My previous home
had some of the highest quality water in the nation and I had to treat for
Chloramine and chlorine with Amquel.
Mike

In a message dated 1/11/2006 5:34:36 AM Pacific Standard Time,
retroyello@... writes:

Hi everyone and thanks for the responses. From what I understand
from our water company: chemicals have been added to the water to
make it unwise to use in fish tanks. Can't be more specific than
that I'm afraid. Since I will be taking some time to get this tank
set up I am checking into the water delivery companies. Might just
have it delivered every two weeks and use the "reconstitute". I have
seen several commercially advertised but if you have a better recipe
I would like to have it. I have been trying to find African Scats
but with no success so far. If anyone hears of a source I would love
to hear about. I did get a 75 gallon tank so eventually hope it will
house 2 to 3 each of Mono Sebae and either the African or green
scats. I have some other questions about cycling the tank but this
is getting long so I will stop for now. Karen--- In





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16275 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Angelfish needs help! Urgent!
My Angelfish is at the bottom of the tank barely swimming and when he
swims to the top of the tank, he is struggling to stay up there.
His mouth is open and he looks like he's gasping for air but he's not.
I have placed three drops of homeopathic rescue remedy into the water
near to where he is at to help him.

I am not sure what is wrong with my Angelfish.

Please help.

Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16276 From: muskie4817 Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Swordtail problem
I have a male swordtail that seems to be having a problem. He has
been hanging out at the top of the tank all day by the power filter.
He has been fine until today. Everyone else in the tank is swimming
fine. The water temp is 76-78 degrees. The ph is right around 6.8 -
7.0. Nitrates, nitrites and ammonia are good. Any ideas?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16277 From: tydrake Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish needs help! Urgent!
Hi,

Does it have something to do with ammonia? maybe you should check it and change the water?

Don't know if this helps at all,
----- Original Message -----
From: Beth Brownell
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 10:03 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Angelfish needs help! Urgent!


My Angelfish is at the bottom of the tank barely swimming and when he
swims to the top of the tank, he is struggling to stay up there.
His mouth is open and he looks like he's gasping for air but he's not.
I have placed three drops of homeopathic rescue remedy into the water
near to where he is at to help him.

I am not sure what is wrong with my Angelfish.

Please help.

Beth






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16278 From: mariuxi0212 Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: wanted: mr. krabs aqua figure
hi, i'm setting up my fishing tank with spongebob's characters. If
anybody has mr. krabs, I'll take him.

thanks!

Mariuxi Flores
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16279 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: My Angelfish is gone. (Was Re: Angelfish needs help! Urgent!)
My Angelfish that was in trouble, died just a few minutes ago.
He was the only one who was acting this way and I just changed the
water three days ago and I will plan on doing a 20% water change
tomorrow since he passed on.
The other Angelfish are looking around for the missing member of the
group and swimming where he was before he died.
Now all I have in the tank is the breeding pairs, a pale red tetra of
unknown breed, a pair of red finned silver or white fish breed
unknown and my pleco.

Beth
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Brownell"
<spencer_creek_studios@y...> wrote:
>
> My Angelfish is at the bottom of the tank barely swimming and when
> he swims to the top of the tank, he is struggling to stay up there.
> His mouth is open and he looks like he's gasping for air but he's
> not.
> I have placed three drops of homeopathic rescue remedy into the
> water near to where he is at to help him.
>
> I am not sure what is wrong with my Angelfish.
>
> Please help.
>
> Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16280 From: Karen Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Cycling the tank
Hi, More questions! I hope you all don't get tired of this. I read
an article on cycling the tank without using guinea pig fish. It
stated that you could just add a few drops of ammonia to the water
daily and it would cycle the same as if you had fish in it. Has
anyone done this? Also I am wondering if the bacteria are affected by
changes in PH and salinity? If I do use mollies or some such fish to
cycle the tank should I start off with one and then add more. If so
how many do I put in and how often? What SG would you suggest for the
Monos and Scats as adults? As I said lots of questions but Thank you
for your responses so far. Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16281 From: Justin M. Date: 1/11/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
At 03:59 AM 12/01/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi, More questions! I hope you all don't get tired of this. I read
>an article on cycling the tank without using guinea pig fish. It
>stated that you could just add a few drops of ammonia to the water
>daily and it would cycle the same as if you had fish in it. Has
>anyone done this?

I have three tanks; one I cycled with fish, the other two were
fishless cycles. I used the ammonia drop method for both fishless cycles,
and it worked like a charm. It takes patience though; both my tanks took
five weeks to cycle this way. But IMO that's a lot better than subjecting
fish to the nasties in an uncycled tank.


>Also I am wondering if the bacteria are affected by
>changes in PH and salinity?


I do not believe so.

JM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16282 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
Karen,

You need to add enough ammonia to measure 5 ppm on your test kit, then
maintain that level as the cycle progresses. Once you are adding ammonia
everyday, and the readings are showing 0 ppm the next, your nitrites should
be in the spike and receding, once the nitrites reach 0, you are ready to
start adding fish.

As for your specific gravity, there is no need to maintain a certain level.
Brackish water fish are adapted to live at many levels of specific gravity,
most from fresh water to marine water. When I have had brackish tanks in the
past, most fish did better when the specific gravity was varied.

\\Steve//

> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Karen
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 11:00 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Cycling the tank
>
> Hi, More questions! I hope you all don't get tired of this. I read
> an article on cycling the tank without using guinea pig fish. It
> stated that you could just add a few drops of ammonia to the water
> daily and it would cycle the same as if you had fish in it. Has
> anyone done this? Also I am wondering if the bacteria are
> affected by
> changes in PH and salinity? If I do use mollies or some such fish to
> cycle the tank should I start off with one and then add more. If so
> how many do I put in and how often? What SG would you
> suggest for the
> Monos and Scats as adults? As I said lots of questions but Thank you
> for your responses so far. Karen
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the
> original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject
> (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16283 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Fish Identity
I have a couple of Gourami that I can't seem to identify. THE LFS I got
them from had them listed as Honey Gourami, but I know this isn't the case
as they are at least twice the size of my honey gourami. I love their
personality. First pair of fish I ever bought that I can hand feed right
off the bat. Very friendly.

Their coloring is a burnt red. They are a little shorter (top to bottom)
than a dwarf gourami, but about the same length, roughly 2 inches.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16284 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
Use BioSpira. It cycles within 24 hours and you can then add fish and
no fish are put through the ringer. 36 hours + is reccommended for
adding the fish after the BioSpira. But it beats 5+ weeks. =)
Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Karen
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cycling the tank


Hi, More questions! I hope you all don't get tired of this. I read
an article on cycling the tank without using guinea pig fish. It
stated that you could just add a few drops of ammonia to the water
daily and it would cycle the same as if you had fish in it. Has
anyone done this? Also I am wondering if the bacteria are affected by
changes in PH and salinity? If I do use mollies or some such fish to
cycle the tank should I start off with one and then add more. If so
how many do I put in and how often? What SG would you suggest for the
Monos and Scats as adults? As I said lots of questions but Thank you
for your responses so far. Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16285 From: wendie Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
I've used it both with fish in the tank - dummy me removed too many fish and
plants at once and upset everything - and with new tanks. I usually add
the fish the next day and haven't had a problem. I've also added it within
6 or 7 hours before adding fish without a problem and I'm keeping sensitive
loaches. I've cycled about 7 tanks with it. I also buy extra and keep it
on hand as it's good for six months.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 11:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cycling the tank


Use BioSpira. It cycles within 24 hours and you can then add fish and
no fish are put through the ringer. 36 hours + is reccommended for
adding the fish after the BioSpira. But it beats 5+ weeks. =)
Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Karen
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cycling the tank


Hi, More questions! I hope you all don't get tired of this. I read
an article on cycling the tank without using guinea pig fish. It
stated that you could just add a few drops of ammonia to the water
daily and it would cycle the same as if you had fish in it. Has
anyone done this? Also I am wondering if the bacteria are affected by
changes in PH and salinity? If I do use mollies or some such fish to
cycle the tank should I start off with one and then add more. If so
how many do I put in and how often? What SG would you suggest for the
Monos and Scats as adults? As I said lots of questions but Thank you
for your responses so far. Karen





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

a.. Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.


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--



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16286 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Identity
can you post a picture of them?

--- The Dragon Hunter
<dragon.hunter@...> wrote:

> I have a couple of Gourami that I can't seem to
> identify. THE LFS I got
> them from had them listed as Honey Gourami, but I
> know this isn't the case
> as they are at least twice the size of my honey
> gourami. I love their
> personality. First pair of fish I ever bought that
> I can hand feed right
> off the bat. Very friendly.
>
> Their coloring is a burnt red. They are a little
> shorter (top to bottom)
> than a dwarf gourami, but about the same length,
> roughly 2 inches.
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16287 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Identity
As soon as I get home that will be no problem.

-Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: "Valeen Gonzalez" <valeendgonzalez@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Fish Identity


> can you post a picture of them?
>
> --- The Dragon Hunter
> <dragon.hunter@...> wrote:
>
> > I have a couple of Gourami that I can't seem to
> > identify. THE LFS I got
> > them from had them listed as Honey Gourami, but I
> > know this isn't the case
> > as they are at least twice the size of my honey
> > gourami. I love their
> > personality. First pair of fish I ever bought that
> > I can hand feed right
> > off the bat. Very friendly.
> >
> > Their coloring is a burnt red. They are a little
> > shorter (top to bottom)
> > than a dwarf gourami, but about the same length,
> > roughly 2 inches.
> >
> >
>
>
> Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
> valeendgonzalez@...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16288 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
not sure if this is exactly the way you're supposed to
cycle, but i have never cycled any of my tanks (fresh
or salt) with fish. it seems cruel to the fish &
unnecessary since you can simply add something else to
culture the amonia. in salt, a lot of people use a
piece of raw shrimp thrown in, or simply let the tank
sit with water, live rock & sand for at least 4 weeks.
in fresh, i've always just filled with water & gravel
& let sit for the same - 4 weeks or so.

--- Karen <retroyello@...> wrote:

> Hi, More questions! I hope you all don't get tired
> of this. I read
> an article on cycling the tank without using guinea
> pig fish. It
> stated that you could just add a few drops of
> ammonia to the water
> daily and it would cycle the same as if you had fish
> in it. Has
> anyone done this? Also I am wondering if the
> bacteria are affected by
> changes in PH and salinity? If I do use mollies or
> some such fish to
> cycle the tank should I start off with one and then
> add more. If so
> how many do I put in and how often? What SG would
> you suggest for the
> Monos and Scats as adults? As I said lots of
> questions but Thank you
> for your responses so far. Karen
>
>
>
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16289 From: Pat Jellison Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Cycling the tank
Another thing you can do is jump-start the cycle by adding a few of
handfuls of gravel and a few plants or rocks from an established,
healthy tank. I've done this for years and I never see an ammonia or
nitrite spike.

Very best fishes,
Pat J
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16290 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Identity
Probably one of the varieties of dwarf gouramis. Hard to say without a
better description or a picture.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 11:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish Identity

I have a couple of Gourami that I can't seem to identify. THE LFS I got
them from had them listed as Honey Gourami, but I know this isn't the case
as they are at least twice the size of my honey gourami. I love their
personality. First pair of fish I ever bought that I can hand feed right
off the bat. Very friendly.

Their coloring is a burnt red. They are a little shorter (top to bottom)
than a dwarf gourami, but about the same length, roughly 2 inches.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16291 From: wantvws Date: 1/12/2006
Subject: Lighting question
Hi...I'm looking at a 72" compact flourescent light fixture (384w-4x96w) for a new 210
gallon setup. Initially it will be fish only. It is manufactured by Odyssea....is it a decent
fixture? I am new to this...I posted a lot about 8 months ago when I first got this aquarium,
and still have not set it up, but I am getting close. I also have some filtration questions,
but I'll save those for later.
Thanks!!!!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16292 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Inside Filter 4 W, 500 liters per hour, Altmann, if I recall it cor
Hello, in my already described approximately 20 Gal (70 liters) tank,
I installed an inside filter by, if I recall it correctly, Altmann.

It is a 4 W machine that moves 500 liters of water, per hour.

Now, as I also already outlined previously, here in Brazil, problem is
not so much heating but rather cooling of water (at least during
summer).

How much does the internal filter machine contribute to water heat up,
due to engine heat?

It seems to me, that it does contribute significantly, but I would like
to get opinions.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16293 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
i have 2 odyssea pc lights & both work great. one is a
65w & the other is a 130w.

what do you plan on having under these lights? this is
for a sw tank i take it?

--- wantvws <rml1963@...> wrote:

> Hi...I'm looking at a 72" compact flourescent light
> fixture (384w-4x96w) for a new 210
> gallon setup. Initially it will be fish only. It is
> manufactured by Odyssea....is it a decent
> fixture? I am new to this...I posted a lot about 8
> months ago when I first got this aquarium,
> and still have not set it up, but I am getting
> close. I also have some filtration questions,
> but I'll save those for later.
> Thanks!!!!
> Robbie
>
>
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16294 From: scott johnston Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: question
hello all been along time since i have posted anything on here but i
have a question for you all. how can you fingure out how big a tank
will be with out seeing it but knowing how many gallons it is im
wanting a 125 gallon tank but need to know the dementions of one fist
does anyone have any ideas?? thank you for your time all.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16295 From: wendie Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: question
Hi,
Here's a handy site. The measurements and weights are for glass tanks so
acrylic will weigh less.

http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/tipsandtables/l/bltanksize.htm

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of scott johnston
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 2:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] question


hello all been along time since i have posted anything on here but i
have a question for you all. how can you fingure out how big a tank
will be with out seeing it but knowing how many gallons it is im
wanting a 125 gallon tank but need to know the dementions of one fist
does anyone have any ideas?? thank you for your time all.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16296 From: wantvws Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Yeah...it'll be a saltwater fish-only tank to begin with, but I would like to eventually put
some invertabrates and plants in, too. Is a 72", 384w fixture enough for this tank?
Thanks!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16297 From: harry perry Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: question/Wendie
Thank you. Folks like you make these groups work.

Harry a moderator.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: Hi,
Here's a handy site. The measurements and weights are for glass tanks so
acrylic will weigh less.

http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/tipsandtables/l/bltanksize.htm

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of scott johnston
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 2:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] question


hello all been along time since i have posted anything on here but i
have a question for you all. how can you fingure out how big a tank
will be with out seeing it but knowing how many gallons it is im
wanting a 125 gallon tank but need to know the dementions of one fist
does anyone have any ideas?? thank you for your time all.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16298 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Identity
Darn it. Forgot to UL the pics last night. Will get them up tonight.
Thanks in advance yall. :D

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 11:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish Identity

I have a couple of Gourami that I can't seem to identify. THE LFS I got
them from had them listed as Honey Gourami, but I know this isn't the case
as they are at least twice the size of my honey gourami. I love their
personality. First pair of fish I ever bought that I can hand feed right
off the bat. Very friendly.

Their coloring is a burnt red. They are a little shorter (top to bottom)
than a dwarf gourami, but about the same length, roughly 2 inches.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16299 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
you probably already said, but how many gallons is
your tank? for fish only you don't have to have higher
lighting. once you start putting in coral though, then
you'll need to adjust your lighting depending upon the
kind of coral you want to keep. sps coral, certain
tridacnid clams & certain lps i think, need pretty
intense lighting.

some lps & softies (mushrooms, zoos, leathers, etc.)
don't require the really intense lighting.

i myself keep softies & lps in my tank under pc
lighting. i have some mushrooms, sun corals (don't
need intense, or any, lighting), frogspawn, gorgonian,
palythoas, zoanthids & 1 torch.

--- wantvws <rml1963@...> wrote:

> Yeah...it'll be a saltwater fish-only tank to begin
> with, but I would like to eventually put
> some invertabrates and plants in, too. Is a 72",
> 384w fixture enough for this tank?
> Thanks!
> Robbie
>
>
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16300 From: wantvws Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
It's 210 gallons, and I am going to start off with fish only. When you
say that some coral need really intense light, are you referring to
metal halides? Or, can I just get more powerful flourescents? With the
size of this fixture and the price, I could probably add another one
just like it if I need more light in the future, right?
Thanks for your help!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16301 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
i did mean metal halides when i said more intense. but
it's not a hard & fast rule that you have to get
halides.

my lighting is on the low end that's why i only have
softies & lower light lps corals.

i think softies do well with something around
3-4w/gallon or so. so you can calculate your tank
gallon size (& take into consideration the height of
your tank) when deciding on your lights.

but for fish only pc lighting is definitely fine. you
could even have standar fluorescent lighting and be ok
for fish only.

--- wantvws <rml1963@...> wrote:

> It's 210 gallons, and I am going to start off with
> fish only. When you
> say that some coral need really intense light, are
> you referring to
> metal halides? Or, can I just get more powerful
> flourescents? With the
> size of this fixture and the price, I could probably
> add another one
> just like it if I need more light in the future,
> right?
> Thanks for your help!
> Robbie
>
>
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16302 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Aquarium Canopy Info Desired
I am having a canopy built for our aquarium. I have a few friends who
are in the woodworking hobby and have offered to do it. I just need to
know if there is anything I should ask them to pay extra attention to.
I worry about mildew, how do I prevent it? Lighting, the ease of
changing, how to mount? Evaporation, will a wooden canopy help or
should I add something in addition to it?

Any info is greatly appreciated. I want to get this right, the first
time. =)

Thanks,
~Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16303 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Canopy Info Desired
You will probably want a good marine finish on the inside of the hood. If
you are going to build lighting into it, first research reflectors,
fixtures, switches, and ballasts so they can be designed into the canopy.
You'll also want it designed for easy access to the tank for mundane tasks
such as feeding, water changes, etc.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 10:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium Canopy Info Desired

I am having a canopy built for our aquarium. I have a few friends who
are in the woodworking hobby and have offered to do it. I just need to
know if there is anything I should ask them to pay extra attention to.
I worry about mildew, how do I prevent it? Lighting, the ease of
changing, how to mount? Evaporation, will a wooden canopy help or
should I add something in addition to it?

Any info is greatly appreciated. I want to get this right, the first
time. =)

Thanks,
~Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16304 From: harry perry Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Canopy Info Desired/L & D Moore
I would make a wooden hood out of marine plywood and seal it with wood preservative. I did this with the deck in my boat. It's still strong after 20 years.

Harry

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: You will probably want a good marine finish on the inside of the hood. If
you are going to build lighting into it, first research reflectors,
fixtures, switches, and ballasts so they can be designed into the canopy.
You'll also want it designed for easy access to the tank for mundane tasks
such as feeding, water changes, etc.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 10:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium Canopy Info Desired

I am having a canopy built for our aquarium. I have a few friends who
are in the woodworking hobby and have offered to do it. I just need to
know if there is anything I should ask them to pay extra attention to.
I worry about mildew, how do I prevent it? Lighting, the ease of
changing, how to mount? Evaporation, will a wooden canopy help or
should I add something in addition to it?

Any info is greatly appreciated. I want to get this right, the first
time. =)

Thanks,
~Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16305 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Metal halides also produce a lot of heat...which is something else you need
to consider when choosing lights. You don;t want to boil your fish and
plants ;-)

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Valeen Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, 13 January 2006 18:25
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Lighting question


i did mean metal halides when i said more intense. but
it's not a hard & fast rule that you have to get
halides.

my lighting is on the low end that's why i only have
softies & lower light lps corals.

i think softies do well with something around
3-4w/gallon or so. so you can calculate your tank
gallon size (& take into consideration the height of
your tank) when deciding on your lights.

but for fish only pc lighting is definitely fine. you
could even have standar fluorescent lighting and be ok
for fish only.

--- wantvws <rml1963@...> wrote:

> It's 210 gallons, and I am going to start off with
> fish only. When you
> say that some coral need really intense light, are
> you referring to
> metal halides? Or, can I just get more powerful
> flourescents? With the
> size of this fixture and the price, I could probably
> add another one
> just like it if I need more light in the future,
> right?
> Thanks for your help!
> Robbie
>
>
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



_____

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<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife> " on the web.


* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16306 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Fish Caught in Net
Twice when releasing netted fish into their new aquarium I have had a fish
get a fin caught. The fish were able to wiggle their way loose after a few
seconds. There is no visible damage to the fin.



What can I do to prevent?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16307 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Caught in Net
Possibly changing the size of the netting might eliminate that problem. If
the net is fine (small mess), get one with a larger mesh. If your present net
is too coarse where the ends of the fins are pushing through between the mesh,
get a much finer net that will not allow this.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16308 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Caught in Net
OOPS! Sorry I made a "mess" of things -- should read "mesh".


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16309 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Caught in Net
Just use the net to maneuver the fish into another container, such as a
plastic bag, plastic filter box, or glass jar. Any container will do if the
transfer is "in house", but if the fish is being moved to another location,
then the plastic bag may be best.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 7:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish Caught in Net

Twice when releasing netted fish into their new aquarium I have had a fish
get a fin caught. The fish were able to wiggle their way loose after a few
seconds. There is no visible damage to the fin.



What can I do to prevent?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16310 From: wantvws Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Canopy Info Desired
Hi Leslie...I am also a woodworker, but a newbie to the aquarium world. I had planned on
building a canopy for my tank, and my plan was to basicly make a big box that sat on the
top frame out of whatever (oak, maple, walnut, cherry, etc). I was going to put panels that
slid out on the front for feeding access, etc, and leave openings in the back for heaters,
filters, etc. I was not going to put a top on it, but instead strips of evenly spaced wood
(kinda like a pallet?) to allow ventilation but also give me a place to attach my light
fixtures. I would imagine as long as there is some kind of sealer (polyurethane, marine
varnish, gel varnish...), you don't have to worry about what kind of wood you use...it
should be fine. You can also use moldings to dress it up a bit, so it does not look like a big
box, but more like a piece of furniture.
I've rambled enough.
Robbie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16311 From: John Hawley Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Winter Fish Kill at Arboretum Won’t Chill Spirit
For increasing numbers of children they are as likely to see nature
on their television or the Internet as in a natural setting. Yet,
community parks such as Iowa's Dubuque Arboretum and Botanical
Gardens have been especially nice for parents there seeking safe
first-hand flora and fauna experiences for their children. Hand
feeding the koi in the Japanese garden pond had been a popular
activity until an equipment failure during the first week of 2006
resulted in the loss of over 300 of their watery pets.

Jack Frick, an arboretum volunteer was interviewed by KCRG-TV9 where
he confided that looking at the pond now is ''almost too much to
bare'' as it is like ''staring at a grave-yard.'' No longer do
clapping hands bring forth a school of friendly fish foraging for
feed. The founder of the Japanese garden pond died in October. More
hand wringing than clapping now occurs as arboretum staff tries to
garner the technical and financial resources to restock and maintain
the koi pond.

Did the equipment failure alone cause the fish kill? Was the pond
overstocked? Did the surface freezing over cause the calamity? Those
are some of the questions Jackie Allsup, an Associated Koi Clubs of
America, Koi Health Advisor living in Iowa is qualified to answer
said KHA Program Director Spike Cover. Such expertise can be found
throughout the country along with contact information for other
regional experts at http://www.akca.org/kht/graduate.htm, according
to Cover.

The Dubuque Arboretum and Botanical Gardens is funded completely by
donations and operated by volunteers. In that spirit of volunteerism
a swell of public support rose from koi-keepers around the country
after the news spread of the Dubuque disaster. Calls of support
quickly rolled into the arboretum after stories from area media hit
the Internet (a few reports: http://www.woi-tv.com/Global/story.asp?
S=4326201&nav=1LFX; http://www.kcci.com/news/5887191/detail.html;
http://desmoinesregister.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?
AID=/20060106/NEWS08/60106004/1001/NEWS08)

Message board forums came alive with the conversations of how to
help. ''I emailed the Arboretum last night,'' wrote, Tony Quitoriano
of the KOI-UNIT club in Northern California on the Koi-Bito Magazine
forum. ''I would think the local club would be seeking to help since
they live in that neck of the woods.... Anyway, if these guys need
fish they need to setup a quarantine tank process for the fish they
get and they need to winter these fish indoors then release the fish
in spring....'' Allsup is also a member of the Eastern Iowa Pond
Society that will host a club meeting in February that Frick will
attend in part to assess and brainstorm over future plans for the
Japanese garden pond.

''I already emailed the Dubuque Arboretum to let them know that we
are more than willing to help them out by donating some koi for them
to replenish the fish as requested,'' Dinh Nguyen of the Santa Clara
Valley Koi & Watergarden Club wrote. ''It seems like we would like to
know a little bit more in details to understand the cause that killed
them. With a large pond frozen over surface without water pump for
just several days, it's difficult to understand the oxygen is the
guilty party to the loss of 300 koi?'' Allsup reported that there
were also hundreds of sunfish occupying the pond that contributed to
rapidly reducing required oxygen supplies after the pump failed.

''Many of us have had pumps go out, so this is something that could
happen to any of us,'' Greg Bickal of Toddville, Iowa wrote
(www.bickal.com). ''The Blank Park Zoo in Des Moines has a mud pond
with some 500+ large koi and they keep a hole open with a large
airstone. I think they would run into problems pretty fast if it quit
also. Ponds here are covered in ice from Mid-late November to Mid
March. That's at least 4 months. Water temp is below 50 for 6 months.
Those are extreme conditions for koi to endure.''

As the freezes thaw, the warm hearted, congenial communications, and
cooperation of these volunteers will no doubt blossom with Spring
smiles of many Iowa children as they once more experience nature
first hand at the Dubuque Arboretum and Botanical Garden Japanese
style koi pond.

http://www.koicluboftheair.org
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16312 From: Karen Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Water purification/Thanks for the input
Hello, I would like to know if ultra violet units, in a properly
cycling tank, are useful? I have been checking into RO units and I
can get a "bare bones" for about the same price as the uv. Or should
you have both? I found the BioSpira and thanks for the suggestion. I
am slowly but surely getting everything together to get this tank set
up. I'm still trying to find a source for the coral base rock that
won't cost me an arm and a knee to buy. Of course I always think I
have to have everything but I want to have these fish for as long as
possible so want to make it as "fish friendly" as possible. Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16313 From: Andreas Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Water purification/Thanks for the input
I sa RO is more important, UV will keep down some algae and kill some bad
organisms. ro controls algael by reducing nutrients left over in the water.
you should add back some RO right to add back some hardness, or you water
will be very soft and very volatile (due to low buffering)

Andreas


On 1/14/06, Karen <retroyello@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, I would like to know if ultra violet units, in a properly
> cycling tank, are useful? I have been checking into RO units and I
> can get a "bare bones" for about the same price as the uv. Or should
> you have both? I found the BioSpira and thanks for the suggestion. I
> am slowly but surely getting everything together to get this tank set
> up. I'm still trying to find a source for the coral base rock that
> won't cost me an arm and a knee to buy. Of course I always think I
> have to have everything but I want to have these fish for as long as
> possible so want to make it as "fish friendly" as possible. Karen
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
> ------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> - Visit your group "AquaticLife<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife>"
> on the web.
>
> - To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com<AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
> - Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16314 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2006
Subject: Re: Water purification/Thanks for the input
UV units are generally used for algae control and also can be used to help
kill some spores and bacteria. I really do not see them as useful in home
freshwater aquaria, and they are generally used in ponds, mostly for algal
control. They will not remove harmful r excessive molecules from the water
as RO filtration does.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Karen
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 9:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water purification/Thanks for the input

Hello, I would like to know if ultra violet units, in a properly
cycling tank, are useful? I have been checking into RO units and I
can get a "bare bones" for about the same price as the uv. Or should
you have both? I found the BioSpira and thanks for the suggestion. I
am slowly but surely getting everything together to get this tank set
up. I'm still trying to find a source for the coral base rock that
won't cost me an arm and a knee to buy. Of course I always think I
have to have everything but I want to have these fish for as long as
possible so want to make it as "fish friendly" as possible. Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16315 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Winter Fish Kill at Arboretum Won’t Chill Spiri
John, That really is terribly sad news. It appears that possibly several
factors could have contributed to this calamity, I guess we won't know yet for
sure if it were overcrowding without first knowing how large the pond is.
Generally, what often happens in a fish kill when a pond completely freezes over
is not so much a lack of oxygen but a build up of noxious gases (hydrogen and
methane) from decaying matter, such as rotting plant matter and/or excess food
on the bottom, which poisons the fish. It does puzzle me as to why the fish
were still being fed in such cold water that would freeze over with the lack of
turbulance from a pump, even if they were being fed more easily digestable
foods such as wheat germ. In water that cold, Koi should not be fed as, if they
do eat at those extreme temperatures (most times they won't), the food will
only rot in their stomachs. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16316 From: DiOhio Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Winter Fish Kill at Arboretum Won’t Chill
This is so sad to hear. I will agree with Ray in that it was most likely
the noxious gasses being trapped by the ice that caused their death. What
really puzzles me though, is with so many valuable Koi, why didn't they have
someone who at least knew about wintering ponds? I mean they just stood and
watched the ice covered pond, for days, even after they got the pump going
again. Why didn't someone break a hole in the ice right away !? It really
leaves me feeling quite angry.
Diane

----- Original Message -----
From: sevenspringss@...

John, That really is terribly sad news. It appears that possibly several
factors could have contributed to this calamity, I guess we won't know yet
for
sure if it were overcrowding without first knowing how large the pond is.
Generally, what often happens in a fish kill when a pond completely freezes
over
is not so much a lack of oxygen but a build up of noxious gases (hydrogen
and
methane) from decaying matter, such as rotting plant matter and/or excess
food
on the bottom, which poisons the fish. It does puzzle me as to why the fish
were still being fed in such cold water that would freeze over with the lack
of
turbulance from a pump, even if they were being fed more easily digestable
foods such as wheat germ. In water that cold, Koi should not be fed as, if
they
do eat at those extreme temperatures (most times they won't), the food will
only rot in their stomachs. Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16317 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Winter Fish Ki ll at Arboretum Won’t Chill
Diane, I know exactly what you're saying and agree with you 100%, but for
those out there with ponds (that might freeze over), I'd just like to add that a
hole in the ice should never be "broken" (unless its really thin), as the
concussion can kill the fish. Best to keep pouring boiling water in one spot to
melt a hole, if it becomes frozen over. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16318 From: DiOhio Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Winter Fish Ki ll at Arboretum Wonââ,¬â"¢t
Excellent point Ray, and I should have mentioned that in my post. I will
say though that in my early ponding days I had used a hammer to break ice (I
was in a panic when I discovered that the floating styrefoam had frozen
solid while we were away for Christmas) with no harm done to the fish, so
I'm not sure how much of a concussion they can handle but it's risky and
shouldn't be done.
Diane

----- Original Message -----
From: sevenspringss@...

Diane, I know exactly what you're saying and agree with you 100%, but for
those out there with ponds (that might freeze over), I'd just like to add
that a
hole in the ice should never be "broken" (unless its really thin), as the
concussion can kill the fish. Best to keep pouring boiling water in one
spot to
melt a hole, if it becomes frozen over. Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16319 From: harry perry Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: Winter Fish Ki ll /frozen ponds.
A submersible pump would keep the water "open".

Harry
DiOhio <diohio@...> wrote: Excellent point Ray, and I should have mentioned that in my post. I will
say though that in my early ponding days I had used a hammer to break ice (I
was in a panic when I discovered that the floating styrefoam had frozen
solid while we were away for Christmas) with no harm done to the fish, so
I'm not sure how much of a concussion they can handle but it's risky and
shouldn't be done.
Diane

----- Original Message -----
From: sevenspringss@...

Diane, I know exactly what you're saying and agree with you 100%, but for
those out there with ponds (that might freeze over), I'd just like to add
that a
hole in the ice should never be "broken" (unless its really thin), as the
concussion can kill the fish. Best to keep pouring boiling water in one
spot to
melt a hole, if it becomes frozen over. Ray




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16320 From: DiOhio Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: Winter Fish Ki ll /frozen ponds.
That's what I use now with no problems at all but I had to learn the hard
way.
Diane


----- Original Message -----
From: harry perry

A submersible pump would keep the water "open".

Harry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16321 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: Winter Fish Ki ll /frozen ponds.
Harry, Definitely, but in the case of the original post, the pump failed, as
you may have read. This is what started their die out, when their pond then
froze over. A large airstone (With large air pump -- Alita, for example) will
also do the same thing. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16322 From: tydrake Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: URGENT
I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank. I have to move it along with everything else to our new house. any advice!!!! I also am worried on where to put my fish when we get there because the tank will not be instantly set up!! and will they die because the six week ammonia cycle will have to start again!?

I need advice!
Please help
email l- lordsion@...
Ty,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16323 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
How far is the move?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16324 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Use BioSpira to cycle the tank. You can add your fish within 24 hours
of adding the BioSpira.
And, someone has asked about the length of the move, it's too far...I
personally would find the fish family members a new loving home and
start over once settled. Or, you could have someone ship them to you
once you get the tank set up.
Just a thought.
Leslie

Have kids stuff? Need kids stuff? Zainy Zebra Consignment!
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Cabot Freecycle: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Freecycle_Cabot_Area/


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of tydrake
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 6:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] URGENT


I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my
tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank.
I have to move it along with everything else to our new house. any
advice!!!! I also am worried on where to put my fish when we get there
because the tank will not be instantly set up!! and will they die
because the six week ammonia cycle will have to start again!?

I need advice!
Please help
email l- lordsion@...
Ty,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16325 From: scott johnston Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: small bottom feeders
hello all got another question for ya,what type of fish can i get to
help clean up the bottom of the tank like and alge eater of some sort
that will not get to big cause the tank it needs to go in is only 5
gallons or smaller can ya give me some ideas?? thank you for your time.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16326 From: harry perry Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders/Scott
There aren't any. 5 gallons is too small for any fish.

Harry

scott johnston <scott_johnston75@...> wrote: hello all got another question for ya,what type of fish can i get to
help clean up the bottom of the tank like and alge eater of some sort
that will not get to big cause the tank it needs to go in is only 5
gallons or smaller can ya give me some ideas?? thank you for your time.





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16327 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Ty,

Someone else already asked the distance you are going to move. This is an
important part of the equation, because the distance and time of the move
will dictate how you do the move, and what will need to be done at the other
end. A short move probably means you can save the need to cycle the tank
again. A longer move may mean you would need a period of adjustment for the
cycle to restart, and a very long move may mean it is better to find a new
local home for the fish, though it is possible to move cross country with
fish (and I know people who have done it).

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of tydrake
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 7:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] URGENT

I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my
tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank. I
have to move it along with everything else to our new house. any advice!!!!
I also am worried on where to put my fish when we get there because the tank
will not be instantly set up!! and will they die because the six week
ammonia cycle will have to start again!?

I need advice!
Please help
email l- lordsion@...
Ty,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16328 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
I see you are in Australia the au on end of email address. With you being in
the middle of summer now will also have a role to play on how you are going
to move the tank and fish.
What is the forcast for the move, and how long is the move? can you setup a
temp Container at the end of the move to place the fish in. 5 gallon Tote or
something?
Your water Now and the water at the new location will probally be diffrent.
Diffrent hardness, diffrent Ph... etc might want to check these before hand.
more info is needed for us to help you :-)
What kind of cichlids and How big ?


Robert Renfro
NE Indiana
http://midwestcichlid.com



In a message dated 1/15/2006 7:40:54 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
lordsion@... writes:


>
> I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my
> tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank. I have
> to move it along with everything else to our new house. any advice!!!! I also
> am worried on where to put my fish when we get there because the tank will
> not be instantly set up!! and will they die because the six week ammonia cycle
> will have to start again!?
>
> I need advice!
> Please help
> email l- lordsion@...
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16329 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/15/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders
Scott,

More information is needed. What do you already have in the tank? A five
gallon tank is a small tank and will not support many fish at all. It is
also a high maintenance tank, again because it is small.

Also, you will not have a bottom feeder and an algae eater all rolled up
into one. Since you are going to be doing frequent maintenance, you probably
would find a bottom feeder of more interest.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scott johnston
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] small bottom feeders

hello all got another question for ya,what type of fish can i get to
help clean up the bottom of the tank like and alge eater of some sort
that will not get to big cause the tank it needs to go in is only 5
gallons or smaller can ya give me some ideas?? thank you for your time.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16330 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Ty,

Much of your moving depends on how far you are moving.
How long is the travel time?

As for the fish if it is a one day drive away you can put them in a bucket
with holes in the lids. Of course that depends on how big the cichlids are
and how territorial. You may need one bucket per fish. You could or should
bring some treated water from home if you are travelling by car. And get some
dechlorinator/ chloramine remover, you are going to need it at the new place
anyway. Depending on how long you are travelling you could also look into
a battery powered air pump.

Or skip the buckets and get the appropriate sized bags from your local fish
store. Double bag them. Big bags, more water more oxygen.

Either way you should consider NOT feeding them a few (3-4) DAYS before you
travel. Shippers do this all the time and a healthy fish will be just fine.
Reason to stop feeding is to cut down on ammonia from their waste.


As far as starting a new cycle it depends on what filter you are using and
again how far is the move. Many times you can keep the filter media wet and
much of the bacteria will stay alive.
I did that the last three times I moved but they were only half day moves.

If you are using a moving van or shipping company you might try packing the
tank on a small wooden pallet and surround the tank with thick styrofoam
sheeting. Clearly mark it as FRAGILE GLASS INSIDE! DO NOT TOP STACK!, or
words to that effect. If you move it yourself you can omit the note :) I pack
blankets and mattresses around a tank when I am moving my own stuff.

AS others have mentioned you can always have the fish shipped to you by a
local fish store or a friend perhaps.

When you get them to their new home the local water may be very different
from where you did live so take a good while getting them acclimated.
Good luck.

Mike


In a message dated 1/15/2006 4:40:54 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lordsion@... writes:

I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my
tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank. I have
to move it along with everything else to our new house. any advice!!!! I also
am worried on where to put my fish when we get there because the tank will
not be instantly set up!! and will they die because the six week ammonia cycle
will have to start again!?

I need advice!
Please help
email l- lordsion@...
Ty,






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16331 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders/Scott
What do you want to keep in your 5 gallon tank?

You could get a snail.
Research snails before you get one though. Some can take over any size tank.

Mike

In a message dated 1/15/2006 6:06:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
harryfisherman@... writes:

There aren't any. 5 gallons is too small for any fish.

Harry

scott johnston <scott_johnston75@...> wrote: hello all got
another question for ya,what type of fish can i get to
help clean up the bottom of the tank like and alge eater of some sort
that will not get to big cause the tank it needs to go in is only 5
gallons or smaller can ya give me some ideas?? thank you for your time.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16332 From: Ivan White (Aqua-Hobbyist) Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders/Scott
yes and not only take over, ravvage your beuaitufl plants as they did mine. I purchased some mystery snails and they recked havoc on my lovely plants, they were not suppose to eat plants, but I found that not to be true. He can also get a pygmy catfish which is very small, smaller than a beta. Actually any small corydoras will do. I have endlers in my 6 gallon and they are doing very very well.

Ivan
aqua-hobbyist@...
----- Original Message -----
From: Deenerz@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 4:46 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] small bottom feeders/Scott



What do you want to keep in your 5 gallon tank?

You could get a snail.
Research snails before you get one though. Some can take over any size tank.

Mike

In a message dated 1/15/2006 6:06:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
harryfisherman@... writes:

There aren't any. 5 gallons is too small for any fish.

Harry

scott johnston <scott_johnston75@...> wrote: hello all got
another question for ya,what type of fish can i get to
help clean up the bottom of the tank like and alge eater of some sort
that will not get to big cause the tank it needs to go in is only 5
gallons or smaller can ya give me some ideas?? thank you for your time.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16333 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
You need to bring half the water too. I moved 8 hours with my 50 gallon and
none died. I kept half the water and had the fish store pack them
individually in bags. It worked! The tank was the first thing I set up
when we got to our new house

Good luck!

Cynthia


http://babyitems.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=bag
----- Original Message -----
From: <Deenerz@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <lordsion@...>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 3:21 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT



Ty,

Much of your moving depends on how far you are moving.
How long is the travel time?

As for the fish if it is a one day drive away you can put them in a bucket
with holes in the lids. Of course that depends on how big the cichlids are
and how territorial. You may need one bucket per fish. You could or
should
bring some treated water from home if you are travelling by car. And get
some
dechlorinator/ chloramine remover, you are going to need it at the new
place
anyway. Depending on how long you are travelling you could also look
into
a battery powered air pump.

Or skip the buckets and get the appropriate sized bags from your local fish
store. Double bag them. Big bags, more water more oxygen.

Either way you should consider NOT feeding them a few (3-4) DAYS before you
travel. Shippers do this all the time and a healthy fish will be just
fine.
Reason to stop feeding is to cut down on ammonia from their waste.


As far as starting a new cycle it depends on what filter you are using and
again how far is the move. Many times you can keep the filter media wet
and
much of the bacteria will stay alive.
I did that the last three times I moved but they were only half day moves.

If you are using a moving van or shipping company you might try packing the
tank on a small wooden pallet and surround the tank with thick styrofoam
sheeting. Clearly mark it as FRAGILE GLASS INSIDE! DO NOT TOP STACK!,
or
words to that effect. If you move it yourself you can omit the note :) I
pack
blankets and mattresses around a tank when I am moving my own stuff.

AS others have mentioned you can always have the fish shipped to you by a
local fish store or a friend perhaps.

When you get them to their new home the local water may be very different
from where you did live so take a good while getting them acclimated.
Good luck.

Mike


In a message dated 1/15/2006 4:40:54 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lordsion@... writes:

I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my
tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank. I
have
to move it along with everything else to our new house. any advice!!!! I
also
am worried on where to put my fish when we get there because the tank will
not be instantly set up!! and will they die because the six week ammonia
cycle
will have to start again!?

I need advice!
Please help
email l- lordsion@...
Ty,






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16334 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
i will be late


http://babyitems.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=bag
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred and Cynthia" <fcouellet@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT


> You need to bring half the water too. I moved 8 hours with my 50 gallon
> and
> none died. I kept half the water and had the fish store pack them
> individually in bags. It worked! The tank was the first thing I set up
> when we got to our new house
>
> Good luck!
>
> Cynthia
>
>
> http://babyitems.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=bag
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Deenerz@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Cc: <lordsion@...>
> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 3:21 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT
>
>
>
> Ty,
>
> Much of your moving depends on how far you are moving.
> How long is the travel time?
>
> As for the fish if it is a one day drive away you can put them in a bucket
> with holes in the lids. Of course that depends on how big the cichlids
> are
> and how territorial. You may need one bucket per fish. You could or
> should
> bring some treated water from home if you are travelling by car. And get
> some
> dechlorinator/ chloramine remover, you are going to need it at the new
> place
> anyway. Depending on how long you are travelling you could also look
> into
> a battery powered air pump.
>
> Or skip the buckets and get the appropriate sized bags from your local
> fish
> store. Double bag them. Big bags, more water more oxygen.
>
> Either way you should consider NOT feeding them a few (3-4) DAYS before
> you
> travel. Shippers do this all the time and a healthy fish will be just
> fine.
> Reason to stop feeding is to cut down on ammonia from their waste.
>
>
> As far as starting a new cycle it depends on what filter you are using and
> again how far is the move. Many times you can keep the filter media wet
> and
> much of the bacteria will stay alive.
> I did that the last three times I moved but they were only half day
> moves.
>
> If you are using a moving van or shipping company you might try packing
> the
> tank on a small wooden pallet and surround the tank with thick styrofoam
> sheeting. Clearly mark it as FRAGILE GLASS INSIDE! DO NOT TOP STACK!,
> or
> words to that effect. If you move it yourself you can omit the note :)
> I
> pack
> blankets and mattresses around a tank when I am moving my own stuff.
>
> AS others have mentioned you can always have the fish shipped to you by a
> local fish store or a friend perhaps.
>
> When you get them to their new home the local water may be very different
> from where you did live so take a good while getting them acclimated.
> Good luck.
>
> Mike
>
>
> In a message dated 1/15/2006 4:40:54 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> lordsion@... writes:
>
> I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my
> tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank.
> I
> have
> to move it along with everything else to our new house. any advice!!!! I
> also
> am worried on where to put my fish when we get there because the tank
> will
> not be instantly set up!! and will they die because the six week ammonia
> cycle
> will have to start again!?
>
> I need advice!
> Please help
> email l- lordsion@...
> Ty,
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16335 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Help!! A couple months ago I got some male guppies for my females, and what do you know, now I have a tank full of guppies! (Of course, I knew this would happen!)

They are all wild type guppies. The males are beautiful and the females are most definitely breeders! I don't want to give them to a pet store because I know they will not be properly cared for. I prefer them to go to a home where they will be pets rather than feeders. I guess you could breed babies as feeders if you want.

Anyway, if you are interested, please email me off list! They are from or decended from the guppies at a greenhouse pond, so if I don't hear back from anyone I will most likely return some of them to the pond.

Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16336 From: Kevin Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders
Ghost shrimp make excellent scavengers, and they stay small. Snails are good too, but
they reproduce rapidly, so you have to be diligent about removing excess snails. The best
snail for this is the Malaysian Livebearing Snail (Trumpet Snail), as they stay small, don't
eat live plants, and spend daylight hours crawling through the gravel eating detritus.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "scott johnston" <scott_johnston75@y...> wrote:
>
> hello all got another question for ya,what type of fish can i get to
> help clean up the bottom of the tank like and alge eater of some sort
> that will not get to big cause the tank it needs to go in is only 5
> gallons or smaller can ya give me some ideas?? thank you for your time.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16337 From: tydrake Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
I am problem moving half an hour away.
But it will properly be 2 hours before I have a chance to set up the tank again from when I last pulled it apart to get ready to move. and I am moving in a local area to where I already live so the water should be OK. I have a canister external filter that is very big it takes 18oo litres of water an hour and it is well set up in the terms of bacteria so I will leave some water in the canister and just put the lid on and hope that it doesn't tip over. So when I set up the tank any recommendations on how I should go about it? because it will not be biological set up. I will try to bring as much water from the tank to the new house as I can. Last time I moved I didn't have the canister and just set up the tank with tap water and treated it because I wasn't able to bring about 200 litres of water from the tank to the present house so I learnt the hard way and about half of may fish died, but they where community fish back then and where small. I Will have to move the tank (4 ft Approx and higher than normal : thick glass) and my glass heater, 20 Kilograms of rocks and glass lids, ornaments ( large wood piece) fish of course and filter alongside chemicals and other nick knacks but I will just put most of it in a box.

Thanks for the reply's so far!



From: Fred and Cynthia
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:43 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT


You need to bring half the water too. I moved 8 hours with my 50 gallon and
none died. I kept half the water and had the fish store pack them
individually in bags. It worked! The tank was the first thing I set up
when we got to our new house

Good luck!

Cynthia


http://babyitems.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=bag
----- Original Message -----
From: <Deenerz@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <lordsion@...>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 3:21 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT



Ty,

Much of your moving depends on how far you are moving.
How long is the travel time?

As for the fish if it is a one day drive away you can put them in a bucket
with holes in the lids. Of course that depends on how big the cichlids are
and how territorial. You may need one bucket per fish. You could or
should
bring some treated water from home if you are travelling by car. And get
some
dechlorinator/ chloramine remover, you are going to need it at the new
place
anyway. Depending on how long you are travelling you could also look
into
a battery powered air pump.

Or skip the buckets and get the appropriate sized bags from your local fish
store. Double bag them. Big bags, more water more oxygen.

Either way you should consider NOT feeding them a few (3-4) DAYS before you
travel. Shippers do this all the time and a healthy fish will be just
fine.
Reason to stop feeding is to cut down on ammonia from their waste.


As far as starting a new cycle it depends on what filter you are using and
again how far is the move. Many times you can keep the filter media wet
and
much of the bacteria will stay alive.
I did that the last three times I moved but they were only half day moves.

If you are using a moving van or shipping company you might try packing the
tank on a small wooden pallet and surround the tank with thick styrofoam
sheeting. Clearly mark it as FRAGILE GLASS INSIDE! DO NOT TOP STACK!,
or
words to that effect. If you move it yourself you can omit the note :) I
pack
blankets and mattresses around a tank when I am moving my own stuff.

AS others have mentioned you can always have the fish shipped to you by a
local fish store or a friend perhaps.

When you get them to their new home the local water may be very different
from where you did live so take a good while getting them acclimated.
Good luck.

Mike


In a message dated 1/15/2006 4:40:54 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lordsion@... writes:

I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my
tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank. I
have
to move it along with everything else to our new house. any advice!!!! I
also
am worried on where to put my fish when we get there because the tank will
not be instantly set up!! and will they die because the six week ammonia
cycle
will have to start again!?

I need advice!
Please help
email l- lordsion@...
Ty,












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a.. Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

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------------------------------------------------------------------------------



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16338 From: Patrick Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Keep the gravel and filter pads wet and don't worry about the water. Only
keep 5-10 gallons of the water at the most. Water has no real significant
level of nitrospira bacteria living in it, they grow in the gravel and
filter. If those two things stay wet, your tank will only have a minicyle.
If they dry out, you will have a full 1-month cycle. I only said to keep 5
gallons because 1-2 gallon will keep the gravel and filter wet, while the
rest will be enough to move the fish.

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

I am problem moving half an hour away.
But it will properly be 2 hours before I have a chance to set up the tank
again from when I last pulled it apart to get ready to move. and I am moving
in a local area to where I already live so the water should be OK. I have a
canister external filter that is very big it takes 18oo litres of water an
hour and it is well set up in the terms of bacteria so I will leave some
water in the canister and just put the lid on and hope that it doesn't tip
over. So when I set up the tank any recommendations on how I should go about
it? because it will not be biological set up. I will try to bring as much
water from the tank to the new house as I can. Last time I moved I didn't
have the canister and just set up the tank with tap water and treated it
because I wasn't able to bring about 200 litres of water from the tank to
the present house so I learnt the hard way and about half of may fish died,
but they where community fish back then and where small. I Will have to move
the tank (4 ft Approx and higher than normal : thick glass) and my glass
heater, 20 Kilograms of rocks and glass lids, ornaments ( large wood piece)
fish of course and filter alongside chemicals and other nick knacks but I
will just put most of it in a box.

Thanks for the reply's so far!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16339 From: Patrick Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Keep the gravel and filter pads wet and don't worry about the water. Only
keep 20-40L of the water at the most. Water has no real significant
level of nitrospira bacteria living in it, they grow in the gravel and
filter. If those two things stay wet, your tank will only have a minicyle.
If they dry out, you will have a full 1-month initial cycle. I only said to
keep 5
gallons because 4-10L will keep the gravel and filter wet, while the
rest will be enough to move the fish.

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

I am problem moving half an hour away.
But it will properly be 2 hours before I have a chance to set up the tank
again from when I last pulled it apart to get ready to move. and I am moving
in a local area to where I already live so the water should be OK. I have a
canister external filter that is very big it takes 18oo litres of water an
hour and it is well set up in the terms of bacteria so I will leave some
water in the canister and just put the lid on and hope that it doesn't tip
over. So when I set up the tank any recommendations on how I should go about
it? because it will not be biological set up. I will try to bring as much
water from the tank to the new house as I can. Last time I moved I didn't
have the canister and just set up the tank with tap water and treated it
because I wasn't able to bring about 200 litres of water from the tank to
the present house so I learnt the hard way and about half of may fish died,
but they where community fish back then and where small. I Will have to move
the tank (4 ft Approx and higher than normal : thick glass) and my glass
heater, 20 Kilograms of rocks and glass lids, ornaments ( large wood piece)
fish of course and filter alongside chemicals and other nick knacks but I
will just put most of it in a box.

Thanks for the reply's so far!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16340 From: Patrick Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Keep the gravel and filter pads wet and don't worry about the water. Only
keep 20-40L of the water at the most. Water has no real significant
level of nitrospira bacteria living in it, they grow in the gravel and
filter. If those two things stay wet, your tank will only have a minicyle.
If they dry out, you will have a full 1-month initial cycle. I only said to
keep 5
gallons because 4-10L will keep the gravel and filter wet, while the
rest will be enough to move the fish.

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

I am problem moving half an hour away.
But it will properly be 2 hours before I have a chance to set up the tank
again from when I last pulled it apart to get ready to move. and I am moving
in a local area to where I already live so the water should be OK. I have a
canister external filter that is very big it takes 18oo litres of water an
hour and it is well set up in the terms of bacteria so I will leave some
water in the canister and just put the lid on and hope that it doesn't tip
over. So when I set up the tank any recommendations on how I should go about
it? because it will not be biological set up. I will try to bring as much
water from the tank to the new house as I can. Last time I moved I didn't
have the canister and just set up the tank with tap water and treated it
because I wasn't able to bring about 200 litres of water from the tank to
the present house so I learnt the hard way and about half of may fish died,
but they where community fish back then and where small. I Will have to move
the tank (4 ft Approx and higher than normal : thick glass) and my glass
heater, 20 Kilograms of rocks and glass lids, ornaments ( large wood piece)
fish of course and filter alongside chemicals and other nick knacks but I
will just put most of it in a box.

Thanks for the reply's so far!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16341 From: tydrake Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: URGENT
Hi FortWayneFish@...

the cichlids are about 6 cm in length each and I have three of them. I am moving about half an hour away to about one hour away. the temperature will be properly about 25 - 30 degrees C on the day but I am unsure because we move on the weekend in about 2 and a half weeks from now.
The tank holds about 200 litres. I have a external biological filter that puts 1800 litres an hour in and out of it. In terms of bacteria it is established well. From the time I set the tank up to get ready to move: removing water ect: and from the time I set it up again it will properly be 2 hours before it is set up properly with the fish. I live on the east coast in New South Wales about half way from Sydney to the border going into Queensland. I live near the beach (Practically ever one does it is to hot inland )and where I am moving will be the same so there is always a cool breeze so I think the fish will not get to hot in their bags. but I am also thinking of putting them in a bucket? since the area will move to is still local I expect the water quality to be the same.
Any advice?

Bye
Ty,
From: FortWayneFish@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT


I see you are in Australia the au on end of email address. With you being in
the middle of summer now will also have a role to play on how you are going
to move the tank and fish.
What is the forcast for the move, and how long is the move? can you setup a
temp Container at the end of the move to place the fish in. 5 gallon Tote or
something?
Your water Now and the water at the new location will probally be diffrent.
Diffrent hardness, diffrent Ph... etc might want to check these before hand.
more info is needed for us to help you :-)
What kind of cichlids and How big ?


Robert Renfro
NE Indiana
http://midwestcichlid.com



In a message dated 1/15/2006 7:40:54 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
lordsion@... writes:


>
> I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my
> tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank. I have
> to move it along with everything else to our new house. any advice!!!! I also
> am worried on where to put my fish when we get there because the tank will
> not be instantly set up!! and will they die because the six week ammonia cycle
> will have to start again!?
>
> I need advice!
> Please help
> email l- lordsion@...
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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a.. Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16342 From: tydrake Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
I live about half an hour away from where I am moving.
Thanks for the reply!
----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:32 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] URGENT


Use BioSpira to cycle the tank. You can add your fish within 24 hours
of adding the BioSpira.
And, someone has asked about the length of the move, it's too far...I
personally would find the fish family members a new loving home and
start over once settled. Or, you could have someone ship them to you
once you get the tank set up.
Just a thought.
Leslie

Have kids stuff? Need kids stuff? Zainy Zebra Consignment!
www.ZainyZebra.com

Cabot Garage Sale: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/

Little Rock Garage Sale: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LRgarageSale/

Cabot Freecycle: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Freecycle_Cabot_Area/


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of tydrake
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 6:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] URGENT


I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my
tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank.
I have to move it along with everything else to our new house. any
advice!!!! I also am worried on where to put my fish when we get there
because the tank will not be instantly set up!! and will they die
because the six week ammonia cycle will have to start again!?

I need advice!
Please help
email l- lordsion@...
Ty,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16343 From: tydrake Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
About half an hour away.
Thanks fro the reply!
----- Original Message -----
From: seleya8@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT


How far is the move?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16344 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Emily, what country,city etc do you live in?
Cyd

Emily Tenczar <bababanana@...> wrote:
Help!! A couple months ago I got some male guppies for my females, and what do you know, now I have a tank full of guppies! (Of course, I knew this would happen!)

They are all wild type guppies. The males are beautiful and the females are most definitely breeders! I don't want to give them to a pet store because I know they will not be properly cared for. I prefer them to go to a home where they will be pets rather than feeders. I guess you could breed babies as feeders if you want.

Anyway, if you are interested, please email me off list! They are from or decended from the guppies at a greenhouse pond, so if I don't hear back from anyone I will most likely return some of them to the pond.

Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16345 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Emily, what country,city etc do you live in?
Cyd

Emily Tenczar <bababanana@...> wrote:
Help!! A couple months ago I got some male guppies for my females, and what do you know, now I have a tank full of guppies! (Of course, I knew this would happen!)

They are all wild type guppies. The males are beautiful and the females are most definitely breeders! I don't want to give them to a pet store because I know they will not be properly cared for. I prefer them to go to a home where they will be pets rather than feeders. I guess you could breed babies as feeders if you want.

Anyway, if you are interested, please email me off list! They are from or decended from the guppies at a greenhouse pond, so if I don't hear back from anyone I will most likely return some of them to the pond.

Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16346 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Sorry, I did not notice the title line saying Minneapolis. Wish I could get some of your wonderful guppies, but I reside in Washington State.

Emily, what country,city etc do you live in?
Cyd

Emily Tenczar <bababanana@...> wrote:
Help!! A couple months ago I got some male guppies for my females, and what do you know, now I have a tank full of guppies! (Of course, I knew this would happen!)

They are all wild type guppies. The males are beautiful and the females are most definitely breeders! I don't want to give them to a pet store because I know they will not be properly cared for. I prefer them to go to a home where they will be pets rather than feeders. I guess you could breed babies as feeders if you want.

Anyway, if you are interested, please email me off list! They are from or decended from the guppies at a greenhouse pond, so if I don't hear back from anyone I will most likely return some of them to the pond.

Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16347 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders
i have some tiny panda cories that clean the bottom of my tank. i think, but could be wrong, that they stay small enough to live their lives in a 5 gallon.

scott johnston <scott_johnston75@...> wrote: hello all got another question for ya,what type of fish can i get to
help clean up the bottom of the tank like and alge eater of some sort
that will not get to big cause the tank it needs to go in is only 5
gallons or smaller can ya give me some ideas?? thank you for your time.





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16348 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Ty,

With a half hour move, and maybe 4 hours total before the tank is set up
again, you are not in bad shape. As has already been mentioned, keep the
gravel wet and water in your canister filter, and you should not need to
worry about a cycle when the tank is set up again. You might want to cover
the gravel with some plastic to help retain the moisture.

Your bucket idea may work well, but be sure the bucket(s) are covered so the
fish don't make a suicide move as you are on your way to the new location
(Well, you see, officer, the fish jumped out of the bucket and I reached to
catch it, and . . ."). Add a small piece of polyfilter, or a squirt or so of
Amquel or your favorite ammonia negator to help control the ammonia in the
relatively small amount of water the fish will be in. Also, stop feeding the
fish a few days before the move, which will also reduce ammonia production
from the fish and the fish will be better off for it.

About your moving the water, remember that water weighs 8.4 pounds per
gallon US, and it seems like you have about 50 gallons of it to move, so you
are looking at 2 containers, at minimum, to move the water itself. So long
as the pH and hardness of the water are close to what you have at your
current location. It will be no worse than bringing the fish home from the
store.

When you get to your new place, and are ready to set up again, be sure the
stand is level prior to placing the tank on it. Set up all the equipment and
add the water. If you brought the water with you, you are OK. If you are
adding it out of the tap, run both hot and cold water to reach the ambient
temperature so you do not need to wait for the water to warm--add your water
conditioner, and test the water. Start your filter. If everything looks
alright, take the fish out and add them to the tank. Dispose of the water
they were in.

Keep a close eye on things for the next few days.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of tydrake
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 5:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT

I am problem moving half an hour away.
But it will properly be 2 hours before I have a chance to set up the tank
again from when I last pulled it apart to get ready to move. and I am moving
in a local area to where I already live so the water should be OK. I have a
canister external filter that is very big it takes 18oo litres of water an
hour and it is well set up in the terms of bacteria so I will leave some
water in the canister and just put the lid on and hope that it doesn't tip
over. So when I set up the tank any recommendations on how I should go about
it? because it will not be biological set up. I will try to bring as much
water from the tank to the new house as I can. Last time I moved I didn't
have the canister and just set up the tank with tap water and treated it
because I wasn't able to bring about 200 litres of water from the tank to
the present house so I learnt the hard way and about half of may fish died,
but they where community fish back then and where small. I Will have to move
the tank (4 ft Approx and higher than normal : thick glass) and my glass
heater, 20 Kilograms of rocks and glass lids, ornaments ( large wood piece)
fish of course and filter alongside chemicals and other nick knacks but I
will just put most of it in a box.

Thanks for the reply's so far!



From: Fred and Cynthia
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:43 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT


You need to bring half the water too. I moved 8 hours with my 50 gallon
and
none died. I kept half the water and had the fish store pack them
individually in bags. It worked! The tank was the first thing I set up
when we got to our new house

Good luck!

Cynthia



http://babyitems.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=ba
g
----- Original Message -----
From: <Deenerz@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <lordsion@...>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 3:21 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT



Ty,

Much of your moving depends on how far you are moving.
How long is the travel time?

As for the fish if it is a one day drive away you can put them in a bucket
with holes in the lids. Of course that depends on how big the cichlids
are
and how territorial. You may need one bucket per fish. You could or
should
bring some treated water from home if you are travelling by car. And get

some
dechlorinator/ chloramine remover, you are going to need it at the new
place
anyway. Depending on how long you are travelling you could also look
into
a battery powered air pump.

Or skip the buckets and get the appropriate sized bags from your local
fish
store. Double bag them. Big bags, more water more oxygen.

Either way you should consider NOT feeding them a few (3-4) DAYS before
you
travel. Shippers do this all the time and a healthy fish will be just
fine.
Reason to stop feeding is to cut down on ammonia from their waste.


As far as starting a new cycle it depends on what filter you are using and
again how far is the move. Many times you can keep the filter media wet
and
much of the bacteria will stay alive.
I did that the last three times I moved but they were only half day
moves.

If you are using a moving van or shipping company you might try packing
the
tank on a small wooden pallet and surround the tank with thick styrofoam
sheeting. Clearly mark it as FRAGILE GLASS INSIDE! DO NOT TOP STACK!,

or
words to that effect. If you move it yourself you can omit the note :)
I
pack
blankets and mattresses around a tank when I am moving my own stuff.

AS others have mentioned you can always have the fish shipped to you by a
local fish store or a friend perhaps.

When you get them to their new home the local water may be very different
from where you did live so take a good while getting them acclimated.
Good luck.

Mike


In a message dated 1/15/2006 4:40:54 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lordsion@... writes:

I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my
tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank.
I
have
to move it along with everything else to our new house. any advice!!!! I
also
am worried on where to put my fish when we get there because the tank
will
not be instantly set up!! and will they die because the six week ammonia
cycle
will have to start again!?

I need advice!
Please help
email l- lordsion@...
Ty,












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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16349 From: Patrick Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: puffer problems
Puff Fishy is having some problems. She stays head-down in the gravel a lot. Sometimes she comes up and swims around, and she eats well, but then she goes back to the gravel. The water has been in the low 70's the last few days because the heater hasn't been working right. It started about the same time. Now it is warm again, but no change. Any ideas? I have been doing weekly water changes, and there are empty snail shells everywhere, so he has been eating that plus shrimp last night and bloodworms the night before. Any ideas?

Patrick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16350 From: Cydne Date: 1/16/2006
Subject: Water fleas or Daphnia?
Hey everybody! Got a mystery here. My power went out for about 12
hours on New Year's Day. About three days later, I noticed I have a
brood/batch/group(whatever you want to call it)of teensy critters,
bugs or insects, they are so tiny I can't tell which. I thought maybe
they could be Daphnia, but when I did some research, it did not
describe their behavior as the same as what these little critters do.
What these little bugs are doing is pretty much staying on top of my
water sprites and enjoying my lights, jumping around just like fleas,
skating across the top of the water, so tiny they don't even break the
water tension. My fish seem to check them out every once in awhile,
but I don't think the fish consider them food. I suspect that some
type of insect egg in their flake food hatched during the non-
filtering of my tank for that 12 hour period, what do you guys think?

Cyd
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16351 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: necessary or ideal thickness of glassplates that serve to build an
Hello,

My aproximately 20 gallons tank (70 liters) measures 70 cm X 35 cm X
35 cm.

As I have no experience in Aquarium building the whole job was done
by a local aquarium builder, he opted to choose 6 mm Glassplates.

Is this OK, or is it rather exagerated?

My childhood dream always was to have an Aquarium that is rather
broad, instead of being high, or being elongated.

So the Aquarium of my dreams might measure, perhaps, some 120 cm
length, 90 cm depth, and only 35 cm Height.

What Glassplates would be necessary to construct such a broad, but
flat dream aquarium?

(In this Aquarium I would put a lot of very few, fast growing water
plant species, preferrably Elodea and Ceratophyllum, and wasn´t there
Riccia as well? And only one single livebearer species, either
Gambusia affinis [If residence in any country where this species is
already introduced] or Poecilia reticulata [If residence in any
country where this species is already introduced or unlikely to be
introduced], for instance)

But the focus of this question are the glassplates. How can I know
their ideal or necessary thickness?

best wishes from Brazil,

Thomas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16352 From: tydrake Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Weird parasite
Hi,

I sometimes notice weird small long white worm things in my tank? They are extremely thin: a millimetre thin by 2 centimetre long perhaps, and they never seem to go away even when I cleaned out the tank and added parasite killer in it any idea? My fish also seem to suddenly speed all-around the tank and shaking there fins as if there is something inside there fins bothering them any idea? And one certain fish seems to stay on the bottom of the tank just lying there all-day, I've noticed it fins are starting to go brown? By the way it is not dead - LOL.


Any ideas,
Ty

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16353 From: Tiger Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Hi
Hi,

I sometimes notice weird small long white worm things in my tank? They
are extremely thin: a millimetre thin by 2 centimetre long perhaps,
and they never seem to go away even when I cleaned out the tank and
added parasite killer in it any idea? My fish also seem to suddenly
speed all-around the tank and shaking there fins as if there is
something inside there fins bothering them any idea? And one certain
fish seems to stay on the bottom of the tank just lying there all-day,
I've noticed it fins are starting to go brown? By the way it is not
dead - LOL.


Any ideas,
Ty
lordsion@...
http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/In-The-Zone/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16354 From: Tiger Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: thank you
Hi Thanks for the help and advice for when i move, i will use the
infomation wisely,

Thanks,
Ty
lordsion@...

http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/In-The-Zone/

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/happycomputers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16355 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Inside Filter 4 W, 500 liters per hour, Altmann, if I recall it
if it only uses 4 watts, assuming 120 volts. a.c., it can't be contributing
any more than a tiny amount of heat, not enough to make a difference in any
tank.
-----
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16356 From: historyfan92 Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Red Ludwigia
Hello I just joined this group. I have a question about plastic
aquarium plants. I have a 10 gallon aquarium with all green plastic
plants but want to add some color. There is a plastic plant
called 'red ludwigia' I would like to get as it is colorful.
Does this plant exist in nature or based on a live aquarium plant? I
want my tank to be as natural-looking as possible.

Jon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16357 From: Steve Sears Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders
Sure you could have both rolled into one, go with shrimp.

Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16358 From: ljns27 Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Wanted: Breeders or Infor on the Christmas Fulu
Hello all. I am looking for information on the Christmas Fulu also
known as the Haplochromis (Xystichromis) Phytophagus. I would like to
find a private breeder of them. I have one male, and I nedd a few of
the females to start breeding my own. I know some things of the
Christmas Fulu, although I find the info from other breeders to be
more accurate than the research I can find readily available to me.
Any help I would appreciate it. Thanks.
LJNS27
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16359 From: mur57891@aol.com Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: New Member
Hello I just joined or became a member of the Aquatic Life yahoo group. How
can I start posting messages to the Internet group site?
Jon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16360 From: flecker69 Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: oscars
Anyone aquainted with the breathing habbits of these carnivores{oscars}
please send info..........
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16361 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Weird parasite
You need to do more water changes. I had this in my five gallon so I
started to do them weekly and they are gone now.

Cynthia

http://babyitems.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=bag
----- Original Message -----
From: "tydrake" <lordsion@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 6:00 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Weird parasite


Hi,

I sometimes notice weird small long white worm things in my tank? They are
extremely thin: a millimetre thin by 2 centimetre long perhaps, and they
never seem to go away even when I cleaned out the tank and added parasite
killer in it any idea? My fish also seem to suddenly speed all-around the
tank and shaking there fins as if there is something inside there fins
bothering them any idea? And one certain fish seems to stay on the bottom of
the tank just lying there all-day, I've noticed it fins are starting to go
brown? By the way it is not dead - LOL.


Any ideas,
Ty

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16362 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
Not the best time for shipping either :)
Emily

Cydne McCown <cydthekid50@...> wrote:
Sorry, I did not notice the title line saying Minneapolis. Wish I could get some of your wonderful guppies, but I reside in Washington State.

Emily, what country,city etc do you live in?
Cyd

Emily Tenczar <bababanana@...> wrote:
Help!! A couple months ago I got some male guppies for my females, and what do you know, now I have a tank full of guppies! (Of course, I knew this would happen!)

They are all wild type guppies. The males are beautiful and the females are most definitely breeders! I don't want to give them to a pet store because I know they will not be properly cared for. I prefer them to go to a home where they will be pets rather than feeders. I guess you could breed babies as feeders if you want.

Anyway, if you are interested, please email me off list! They are from or decended from the guppies at a greenhouse pond, so if I don't hear back from anyone I will most likely return some of them to the pond.

Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16363 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
alright, start saving lots of gallon water bottles and get some 5 gal. buckets. Save as much of the water as possible. If possible, drain the water but don't remove the substrate. Put the fish in a bucket during the move. When you set up the tank again, replace the water that you saved. Turn on the filters, and let the water clear before adding the fish. If you have to remove the substrate, don't rinse it or throw it away. Using the same substrate and water will conserve the bacteria. Don't feed for a day or too if you notice ammonia or nitrite spikes.
Emily

tydrake <lordsion@...> wrote:
I am moving in two weeks and really really need advice on how to move my tank? It contains three large cichlids and is a 4 foot thick glass tank. I have to move it along with everything else to our new house. any advice!!!! I also am worried on where to put my fish when we get there because the tank will not be instantly set up!! and will they die because the six week ammonia cycle will have to start again!?

I need advice!
Please help
email l- lordsion@...
Ty,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16364 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Wanted: Breeders or Infor on the Christmas Fulu
Hello LJNS27

Check Mainly Cichlids/Jim Ellenberger. http://www.mainlycichlids.com/Fish_List.html
He has some in stock right. Not sure if he bred this batch but he does breed Victorians.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: ljns27 <ljns27@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 19:35:29 -0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] Wanted: Breeders or Infor on the Christmas Fulu


Hello all. I am looking for information on the Christmas Fulu also
known as the Haplochromis (Xystichromis) Phytophagus. I would like to
find a private breeder of them. I have one male, and I nedd a few of
the females to start breeding my own. I know some things of the
Christmas Fulu, although I find the info from other breeders to be
more accurate than the research I can find readily available to me.
Any help I would appreciate it. Thanks.
LJNS27








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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16365 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: necessary or ideal thickness of glassplates that serve to build
Thomas,
Try Garf.org
They have a tank building calculator that lets you make calculations for all glass tanks, all acrylic tanks, or tanks made of wood and glass, or acrylic and wood.
You will have to convert to inches and then back to centimeters.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer <evolthomas@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:52:14 -0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] necessary or ideal thickness of glassplates that serve to build an aquarium



Hello,

My aproximately 20 gallons tank (70 liters) measures 70 cm X 35 cm X
35 cm.

As I have no experience in Aquarium building the whole job was done
by a local aquarium builder, he opted to choose 6 mm Glassplates.

Is this OK, or is it rather exagerated?

My childhood dream always was to have an Aquarium that is rather
broad, instead of being high, or being elongated.

So the Aquarium of my dreams might measure, perhaps, some 120 cm
length, 90 cm depth, and only 35 cm Height.

What Glassplates would be necessary to construct such a broad, but
flat dream aquarium?

(In this Aquarium I would put a lot of very few, fast growing water
plant species, preferrably Elodea and Ceratophyllum, and wasn´t there
Riccia as well? And only one single livebearer species, either
Gambusia affinis [If residence in any country where this species is
already introduced] or Poecilia reticulata [If residence in any
country where this species is already introduced or unlikely to be
introduced], for instance)

But the focus of this question are the glassplates. How can I know
their ideal or necessary thickness?

best wishes from Brazil,

Thomas





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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16366 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: New Member
You just did it Jon.
Welcome.

-----Original Message-----
From: mur57891@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 19:33:56 EST
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Member


Hello I just joined or became a member of the Aquatic Life yahoo group. How
can I start posting messages to the Internet group site?
Jon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16367 From: Ivan White (Aqua-Hobbyist) Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: New Member
Welcome to the club Jon, I hope you have fun here, this is a nice club.

Ivan
aqua-hobbyist@...
----- Original Message -----
From: Deenerz@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New Member


You just did it Jon.
Welcome.

-----Original Message-----
From: mur57891@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 19:33:56 EST
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Member


Hello I just joined or became a member of the Aquatic Life yahoo group. How
can I start posting messages to the Internet group site?
Jon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.20/232 - Release Date: 1/17/2006



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16368 From: Treston Tyrues Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone in Minneapolis? Free guppies available for adoption!!
umm yes i live in enterprise,al

Emily Tenczar <bababanana@...> wrote: Not the best time for shipping either :)
Emily

Cydne McCown <cydthekid50@...> wrote:
Sorry, I did not notice the title line saying Minneapolis. Wish I could get some of your wonderful guppies, but I reside in Washington State.

Emily, what country,city etc do you live in?
Cyd

Emily Tenczar <bababanana@...> wrote:
Help!! A couple months ago I got some male guppies for my females, and what do you know, now I have a tank full of guppies! (Of course, I knew this would happen!)

They are all wild type guppies. The males are beautiful and the females are most definitely breeders! I don't want to give them to a pet store because I know they will not be properly cared for. I prefer them to go to a home where they will be pets rather than feeders. I guess you could breed babies as feeders if you want.

Anyway, if you are interested, please email me off list! They are from or decended from the guppies at a greenhouse pond, so if I don't hear back from anyone I will most likely return some of them to the pond.

Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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---------------------------------
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---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos – Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16369 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Okay, I'll bite. Stupid question here I guess. If you want a natural looking tank, why don't you get some live plants? Your fish will thank you.
Cyd

historyfan92 <mur57891@...> wrote:
Hello I just joined this group. I have a question about plastic
aquarium plants. I have a 10 gallon aquarium with all green plastic
plants but want to add some color. There is a plastic plant
called 'red ludwigia' I would like to get as it is colorful.
Does this plant exist in nature or based on a live aquarium plant? I
want my tank to be as natural-looking as possible.

Jon







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16370 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Weird parasite
Sounds like you are describing glass worms to me, which are not parasitic. But the same conditions that allow them to appear in your tank could be causing problems with your fish.
Cyd

tydrake <lordsion@...> wrote:
Hi,

I sometimes notice weird small long white worm things in my tank? They are extremely thin: a millimetre thin by 2 centimetre long perhaps, and they never seem to go away even when I cleaned out the tank and added parasite killer in it any idea? My fish also seem to suddenly speed all-around the tank and shaking there fins as if there is something inside there fins bothering them any idea? And one certain fish seems to stay on the bottom of the tank just lying there all-day, I've noticed it fins are starting to go brown? By the way it is not dead - LOL.


Any ideas,
Ty

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16371 From: Patrick Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
What is going on with the strange obsession with saving the water? It has
been explained several times why there is no need to save it all.

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

alright, start saving lots of gallon water bottles and get some 5 gal.
buckets. Save as much of the water as possible. If possible, drain the water
but don't remove the substrate. Put the fish in a bucket during the move.
When you set up the tank again, replace the water that you saved. Turn on
the filters, and let the water clear before adding the fish. If you have to
remove the substrate, don't rinse it or throw it away. Using the same
substrate and water will conserve the bacteria. Don't feed for a day or too
if you notice ammonia or nitrite spikes.
Emily
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16372 From: red-eye Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
LOL... I second that. As for red ludwigia let goggle do the research :-)
This is what I came up with http://tinyurl.com/eyv7m
I also have this in my tank - not plastic but the rel thing. Fake plants I
have found are good for on thing - recycling
regards,
red-eye

At 07:16 PM 1/17/2006, you wrote:
>Okay, I'll bite. Stupid question here I guess. If you want a natural
>looking tank, why don't you get some live plants? Your fish will thank you.
> Cyd
>
>historyfan92 <mur57891@...> wrote:
> Hello I just joined this group. I have a question about plastic
>aquarium plants. I have a 10 gallon aquarium with all green plastic
>plants but want to add some color. There is a plastic plant
>called 'red ludwigia' I would like to get as it is colorful.
>Does this plant exist in nature or based on a live aquarium plant? I
>want my tank to be as natural-looking as possible.
>
>Jon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
>·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
>PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
>the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
>SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
><º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
>We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Yahoo! Photos
> Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,
> whatever.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
>·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
>PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
>the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
>SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
><º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
>We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16374 From: Patrick Date: 1/17/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Well, that was a waste of our group. You asked a question and got an answer
with opinions. Then you decided to leave? Plastic plants are looked down
upon by many aquarists because they contribute very little to the biological
system. It would be much better to get real plants if you want a natural
look. You just can't have plastic and natural in the same sentence. But
again, that is our opinion. You should give people a chance. Eventually,
somebody would probably come along and defend you and we could all agree to
disagree and you could go buy one of those plastic plants and have fun. But
instead I am here telling you, who has probably already left the group, that
our opinions of plastic plants are no reason to go and leave the group. You
never know, somebody that likes plastic might be inspired to come out and
admit it to the group because of you, but not if you leave the group. :)

Patrick



----- Original Message -----


Wow what a way to welcome a new member. Looks like some ignorant souls
here. Time to unsubscribe to this useless group.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16376 From: Fred and Cynthia Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: URGENT
Probably because we are all different! :)

I found saving the water was important because the water here is totally
different and I would have stressed them right out. I kept half and used
half of the new and it worked well for me!

Cynthia

http://babyitems.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=bag
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick" <patrickmn@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] URGENT


What is going on with the strange obsession with saving the water? It has
been explained several times why there is no need to save it all.

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

alright, start saving lots of gallon water bottles and get some 5 gal.
buckets. Save as much of the water as possible. If possible, drain the water
but don't remove the substrate. Put the fish in a bucket during the move.
When you set up the tank again, replace the water that you saved. Turn on
the filters, and let the water clear before adding the fish. If you have to
remove the substrate, don't rinse it or throw it away. Using the same
substrate and water will conserve the bacteria. Don't feed for a day or too
if you notice ammonia or nitrite spikes.
Emily



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16377 From: Amalthea X Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Honestly, new people shouldn't have to wait around to be defended.
That's ridiculous. Maybe you could have given the pros and cons of
each and explained them a bit, including care of the live plant
instead of just mocking them. This group is supposed to help people
to help their fish. Not make fun of them for their ignorance,
particularly when they've come here as a cure for that ignorance.
Amalthea

On Jan 18, 2006, at 1:16 AM, Patrick wrote:

> Well, that was a waste of our group. You asked a question and got
> an answer
> with opinions. Then you decided to leave? Plastic plants are
> looked down
> upon by many aquarists because they contribute very little to the
> biological
> system. It would be much better to get real plants if you want a
> natural
> look. You just can't have plastic and natural in the same
> sentence. But
> again, that is our opinion. You should give people a chance.
> Eventually,
> somebody would probably come along and defend you and we could all
> agree to
> disagree and you could go buy one of those plastic plants and have
> fun. But
> instead I am here telling you, who has probably already left the
> group, that
> our opinions of plastic plants are no reason to go and leave the
> group. You
> never know, somebody that likes plastic might be inspired to come
> out and
> admit it to the group because of you, but not if you leave the
> group. :)
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> Wow what a way to welcome a new member. Looks like some ignorant
> souls
> here. Time to unsubscribe to this useless group.
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·
> ´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
> United kingdom South africa
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16378 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: necessary or ideal thickness of glassplates that serve to build
Can you indicate the exact option where the calculator is?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@a... wrote:
>
> Thomas,
> Try Garf.org
> They have a tank building calculator that lets you make
calculations for all glass tanks, all acrylic tanks, or tanks made of
wood and glass, or acrylic and wood.
> You will have to convert to inches and then back to centimeters.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer <evolthomas@y...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:52:14 -0000
> Subject: [AquaticLife] necessary or ideal thickness of glassplates
that serve to build an aquarium
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> My aproximately 20 gallons tank (70 liters) measures 70 cm X 35 cm
X
> 35 cm.
>
> As I have no experience in Aquarium building the whole job was done
> by a local aquarium builder, he opted to choose 6 mm Glassplates.
>
> Is this OK, or is it rather exagerated?
>
> My childhood dream always was to have an Aquarium that is rather
> broad, instead of being high, or being elongated.
>
> So the Aquarium of my dreams might measure, perhaps, some 120 cm
> length, 90 cm depth, and only 35 cm Height.
>
> What Glassplates would be necessary to construct such a broad, but
> flat dream aquarium?
>
> (In this Aquarium I would put a lot of very few, fast growing water
> plant species, preferrably Elodea and Ceratophyllum, and wasn´t
there
> Riccia as well? And only one single livebearer species, either
> Gambusia affinis [If residence in any country where this species is
> already introduced] or Poecilia reticulata [If residence in any
> country where this species is already introduced or unlikely to be
> introduced], for instance)
>
> But the focus of this question are the glassplates. How can I know
> their ideal or necessary thickness?
>
> best wishes from Brazil,
>
> Thomas
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the
> reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE ->
> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16379 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Thanks, I found the calculator
Hello, now I found the calculator,

for my particular 20 Gallons tank, they recommend 0,635 cm. That is
pretty close to the 0,6 cm I got.

I will reuse this pretty tool!


best wishes, Thomas


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas Schlemmermeyer"
<evolthomas@y...> wrote:
>
>
> Can you indicate the exact option where the calculator is?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@a... wrote:
> >
> > Thomas,
> > Try Garf.org
> > They have a tank building calculator that lets you make
> calculations for all glass tanks, all acrylic tanks, or tanks made
of
> wood and glass, or acrylic and wood.
> > You will have to convert to inches and then back to centimeters.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer <evolthomas@y...>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:52:14 -0000
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] necessary or ideal thickness of
glassplates
> that serve to build an aquarium
> >
> >
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > My aproximately 20 gallons tank (70 liters) measures 70 cm X 35
cm
> X
> > 35 cm.
> >
> > As I have no experience in Aquarium building the whole job was
done
> > by a local aquarium builder, he opted to choose 6 mm Glassplates.
> >
> > Is this OK, or is it rather exagerated?
> >
> > My childhood dream always was to have an Aquarium that is rather
> > broad, instead of being high, or being elongated.
> >
> > So the Aquarium of my dreams might measure, perhaps, some 120 cm
> > length, 90 cm depth, and only 35 cm Height.
> >
> > What Glassplates would be necessary to construct such a broad,
but
> > flat dream aquarium?
> >
> > (In this Aquarium I would put a lot of very few, fast growing
water
> > plant species, preferrably Elodea and Ceratophyllum, and wasn´t
> there
> > Riccia as well? And only one single livebearer species, either
> > Gambusia affinis [If residence in any country where this species
is
> > already introduced] or Poecilia reticulata [If residence in any
> > country where this species is already introduced or unlikely to
be
> > introduced], for instance)
> >
> > But the focus of this question are the glassplates. How can I
know
> > their ideal or necessary thickness?
> >
> > best wishes from Brazil,
> >
> > Thomas
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the
> > reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE ->
> > i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16380 From: aclaar877 Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Red Temple Help--Discus Tank
All plants in my planted discus tank are doing fine, with the
exception of some red temple (alternathera reneickii). I have crypts,
swords, vals, ammania gracillis, aponogetons, and most of them pearl
by the end of the day. The tops of the red temple are slowly growing,
but leaves quickly get cuts and holes in them and look terrible. They
are directly under 6700K CF bulbs, in fluorite, with regular dosing of
traces, iron, P, and K. Nitrates are around 6-7 ppm. Has anyone here
successfully brought these plants back to life after looking thin and
sickly, especially in a discus tank kept at around 86 degrees?

The same plant is doing fine in a 55g under a 6700K T5 strip with
similar fertilization. Some cyanobacteria is developing on it, so P
may be getting high. Only differences between the tanks is the
temperature (77 vs 86), and the discus tank is 2-3 degrees of gH
softer.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16381 From: Andreas Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Monocirrhus polyacanthus
Or South american leaf fish

has anyone seen any? I am in the market for some and am having a hard time
LFS is no help

Andreas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16382 From: deborahgd14 Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Angel fish
Hello All: I am so excited!! My two angels were sexed as two
females. Well, today I saw them hanging around a sword plant and were
acting very agressive towards others. Come to find out, I have angel
eggs on the sword plant. I don't know what to do with the rest of the
fish. I have two plecos, red tail shark, clown loaches and many
tetras. Will they eat the eggs or fry? This was an unexpected
surprise. So exciting. Deborah D
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16383 From: tydrake Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Need some help!
my jewel forest cichlid is looking a bit upset lately. It stays on the bottom of the tank and does nothing. when I feed it he swims up to the top and eats his food then goes to the bottom again. he has been doing it for 2 weeks and dose not swim around the tank like he use to. He just stays on the bottom, usually inside a fake log, and does nothing. I have noticed that he is starting to turn brown on the fins.

Any ideas of what might be wrong with him?

Any thing would be nice :)
Bye
http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/In-The-Zone/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16384 From: Julie Roughley Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: small bottom feeders
Hi Everyone,

I have goldfish that live very happily with a catfish & the algae is no longer a problem, maybe when he grows to be 30cm (1 foot), it may be a different story!



Kevin <kevin-moseley@...> wrote:
Ghost shrimp make excellent scavengers, and they stay small. Snails are good too, but
they reproduce rapidly, so you have to be diligent about removing excess snails. The best
snail for this is the Malaysian Livebearing Snail (Trumpet Snail), as they stay small, don't
eat live plants, and spend daylight hours crawling through the gravel eating detritus.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "scott johnston" <scott_johnston75@y...> wrote:
>
> hello all got another question for ya,what type of fish can i get to
> help clean up the bottom of the tank like and alge eater of some sort
> that will not get to big cause the tank it needs to go in is only 5
> gallons or smaller can ya give me some ideas?? thank you for your time.
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16385 From: rosette55@webtv.net Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: plastic plants
maybe i am wrong but there are some types of fish and snails that will
uproot/eat/kill live plants. we don't even know what kind of setup the
guy had. maybe he had to use plastic.... samantha
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16386 From: kristopher helsing Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Angel fish
Just a shot in the dark here... but if youve only got the 2 angelfish then your water chemistry is great... but the eggs will be best suited for fish food without a male in the tank. Fish will still lay eggs without the male but they arent fertilized..... remember back in 5th grade when they gave you a class on where babys come from... hehe just kidding and sorry for being a smartass if you have a male in there. If thy are on a leaf you should have a small tank with the same water in it asd that tank and remove the eggs by moving the leav( in my opinion. however be ready with very small food for them or your going to have a heck of a time raising fry.

Kris

deborahgd14 <deborahgd14@...> wrote:
Hello All: I am so excited!! My two angels were sexed as two
females. Well, today I saw them hanging around a sword plant and were
acting very agressive towards others. Come to find out, I have angel
eggs on the sword plant. I don't know what to do with the rest of the
fish. I have two plecos, red tail shark, clown loaches and many
tetras. Will they eat the eggs or fry? This was an unexpected
surprise. So exciting. Deborah D







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS


Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


---------------------------------






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16387 From: kristopher helsing Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Need some help!
are you sure its not a she who has laid eggs and is now guarding them? they spawn in the substrate,

Kris

tydrake <lordsion@...> wrote:
my jewel forest cichlid is looking a bit upset lately. It stays on the bottom of the tank and does nothing. when I feed it he swims up to the top and eats his food then goes to the bottom again. he has been doing it for 2 weeks and dose not swim around the tank like he use to. He just stays on the bottom, usually inside a fake log, and does nothing. I have noticed that he is starting to turn brown on the fins.

Any ideas of what might be wrong with him?

Any thing would be nice :)
Bye
http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/In-The-Zone/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16388 From: wantvws Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Filters?
I'm setting up a 210 gallon fish only saltwater tank (still!) and I am
debating on the filtration. I'm currently looking at 2 Fluval 404
canister filters, 2 Marineland Magnum 350's, or 2 Aquaclear 110's. Is
one setup better than the others? The only one I have seen in action
is the Fluval and I really like the fact that it is quiet. Thanks in
advance!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16389 From: Laura Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
I dont think it was the opinion that made them mad....it was the way it was
given, which was really quite judgmental. Just as you prefer live plants
others prefer artificial. It doesnt make one better than the other. They
didnt ask which was better or ask an opinion on which would be better. They
asked how to make them "LOOK" more natural. It was a new person and the
people who answered were very rude and didnt answer the question at all...
only told them how they would use real plants and not the artificial. I
think the person knows that real would look more real....DUH....the question
was what type to use to "LOOK" more real....those who are dead set against
artificial were to quick to jump the gun and NOT help the new person one bit
except to make them feel not welcome....

Soo...it wasnt that opinion but the rudeness in which it was given....

Thats what I think anyway...
Laura




If you give up when it's winter, you will miss the promise of your spring,
the beauty of your summer, and the fulfillment of your fall.


-------Original Message-------

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Date: 01/18/06 00:20:51
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Red Ludwigia

Well, that was a waste of our group. You asked a question and got an answer

with opinions. Then you decided to leave? Plastic plants are looked down
upon by many aquarists because they contribute very little to the biological

system. It would be much better to get real plants if you want a natural
look. You just can't have plastic and natural in the same sentence. But
again, that is our opinion. You should give people a chance. Eventually,
somebody would probably come along and defend you and we could all agree to
disagree and you could go buy one of those plastic plants and have fun. But

instead I am here telling you, who has probably already left the group, that

our opinions of plastic plants are no reason to go and leave the group. You

never know, somebody that likes plastic might be inspired to come out and
admit it to the group because of you, but not if you leave the group. :)

Patrick



----- Original Message -----


Wow what a way to welcome a new member. Looks like some ignorant souls
here. Time to unsubscribe to this useless group.




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
United kingdom South africa



YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16390 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Red Temple Help--Discus Tank
I'm not aware of the requirements of this plant, but I think you pretty much
may have found the problem. You posted that the other tank is 9 degrees
cooler. The discus tank may just be too warm for the plant. Try moving it to
the other tank and see if the plant improves.

Another thing is that the water may be a bit on the soft side for the plant,
but I think the temperature may be the clincher here, since the plant is
trying to grow, and not being very successful at it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of aclaar877
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 11:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Red Temple Help--Discus Tank

All plants in my planted discus tank are doing fine, with the
exception of some red temple (alternathera reneickii). I have crypts,
swords, vals, ammania gracillis, aponogetons, and most of them pearl
by the end of the day. The tops of the red temple are slowly growing,
but leaves quickly get cuts and holes in them and look terrible. They
are directly under 6700K CF bulbs, in fluorite, with regular dosing of
traces, iron, P, and K. Nitrates are around 6-7 ppm. Has anyone here
successfully brought these plants back to life after looking thin and
sickly, especially in a discus tank kept at around 86 degrees?

The same plant is doing fine in a 55g under a 6700K T5 strip with
similar fertilization. Some cyanobacteria is developing on it, so P
may be getting high. Only differences between the tanks is the
temperature (77 vs 86), and the discus tank is 2-3 degrees of gH
softer.





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16391 From: tydrake Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Need some help!
there is no other fish to breed with! I have had he/she a year. I have two other fish which are totally different breeds and are a mating pair that are exactly the same size and shape. they wouldn't mate with a small old jewel.

Thanks anyway,
Ty,
----- Original Message -----
From: kristopher helsing
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Need some help!


are you sure its not a she who has laid eggs and is now guarding them? they spawn in the substrate,

Kris

tydrake <lordsion@...> wrote:
my jewel forest cichlid is looking a bit upset lately. It stays on the bottom of the tank and does nothing. when I feed it he swims up to the top and eats his food then goes to the bottom again. he has been doing it for 2 weeks and dose not swim around the tank like he use to. He just stays on the bottom, usually inside a fake log, and does nothing. I have noticed that he is starting to turn brown on the fins.

Any ideas of what might be wrong with him?

Any thing would be nice :)
Bye
http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/In-The-Zone/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16392 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Filters?
Well, I have no idea about saltwater tanks, BUT when I consider filtration for a tank, I think about the conditions I want and the type of fish I will have in the tank and their requirements. Right now, I have twice the filtration power recommended for my Amazon tank because the fish I keep in it require alot of movement and super filtered water, and my plants love it too. Maybe with saltwater tanks, it's different.

Cyd

wantvws <rml1963@...> wrote:
I'm setting up a 210 gallon fish only saltwater tank (still!) and I am
debating on the filtration. I'm currently looking at 2 Fluval 404
canister filters, 2 Marineland Magnum 350's, or 2 Aquaclear 110's. Is
one setup better than the others? The only one I have seen in action
is the Fluval and I really like the fact that it is quiet. Thanks in
advance!
Robbie









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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16393 From: Laura Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Patrick said....
"You just can't have plastic and natural in the same sentence."

This may be true but that is not what the person was asking....they said
they wanted a "natural LOOK".....whole different meaning....and that you CAN
have with artificial....its a LOOK not the real thing....

Laura




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16394 From: Cydne Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Sorry!
Okay, I will fall on my sword here and say I was being rude to the new
guy. So I think I will just leave so the group will have better luck
with new people. I think I must be too old and crusty to give certain
people the kid glove treatment, and I don't feel like being a lurker.

Cyd
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16396 From: Patrick Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sorry!
No, leave the group and join me in my new life as a Canadian!

Patrick

----- Original Message -----
Okay, I will fall on my sword here and say I was being rude to the new
guy. So I think I will just leave so the group will have better luck
with new people. I think I must be too old and crusty to give certain
people the kid glove treatment, and I don't feel like being a lurker.

Cyd
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16397 From: Patrick Date: 1/18/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Nobody got the point of my message. Everyone that replied to my message
were much worse than those who caused the poor feller to feel unwelcome.
Everyone picked my post apart looking at all the things I said that seemed
rude, but somehow missed that the message was in support of people who
prefer plastic plants being able to remain members of this group without
feeling too bad. Y'all seem a little boring. Maybe I should leave the
group and become a Canadian!

Patrick


This post was not meant to be any more serious than the one everybody seemed
to hate. I don't get made, I cry like a little baby.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16398 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
A Lot has been said.



I personally think that it was no ones fault that the poor new comer left
the group. Yes, some harsh words were spoken but if the person really came
to learn something from the group then his attitude would have been
different towards it.



You meet someone who washes his gravel every month with normal tap water and
your first reaction would be "OH My God, what in the crazy world are you
doing? Get your things straight man and start thinking". I dint find it nice
to include some regularly used harsh phrases but even with that, what are
the chances that the person will take an offence to it? Moreover, what are
the chances that he really wants to learn why you mean that?



If he wants to help himself, he will ask for help, else he can keep living
with plastics and forget the real thing. I am just a bit surprised if he
dint have plastic floating fish in the tank with the kind of attitude he
showed.



Not that I am against plastic decor, I myself have had that but it's the
attitude that was taken against a genuine advice that was give in a slightly
harsh tone. Maybe he was one of those kids who dialled 911 when scolded by
his parents :-s



Lets put an end to a baseless argument and try to be a little more polite to
a new comer ;)



Nim











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16399 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
A Lot has been said.



I personally think that it was no ones fault that the poor new comer left
the group. Yes, some harsh words were spoken but if the person really came
to learn something from the group then his attitude would have been
different towards it.



You meet someone who washes his gravel every month with normal tap water and
your first reaction would be "OH My God, what in the crazy world are you
doing? Get your things straight man and start thinking". I dint find it nice
to include some regularly used harsh phrases but even with that, what are
the chances that the person will take an offence to it? Moreover, what are
the chances that he really wants to learn why you mean that?



If he wants to help himself, he will ask for help, else he can keep living
with plastics and forget the real thing. I am just a bit surprised if he
dint have plastic floating fish in the tank with the kind of attitude he
showed.



Not that I am against plastic decor, I myself have had that but it's the
attitude that was taken against a genuine advice that was give in a slightly
harsh tone. Maybe he was one of those kids who dialled 911 when scolded by
his parents :-s



Lets put an end to a baseless argument and try to be a little more polite to
a new comer ;)



Nim





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16400 From: red-eye Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
Yes a lot has been said....more than the topic deserves
However everyone needs to remember that Email lacks emotion. I do not
believe anyone including myself said anything that was "harsh". If folks
don't like the way individuals are replying then maybe they should
moderated every post or better yet designate a few "polite" individuals to
answer instead. I hope you get my point. Bottom line this is ridiculous in
my humble opinion.
regards,
red-eye




At 02:02 AM 1/19/2006, you wrote:
>A Lot has been said.
>
>
>
>I personally think that it was no ones fault that the poor new comer left
>the group. Yes, some harsh words were spoken but if the person really came
>to learn something from the group then his attitude would have been
>different towards it.
>
>
>
>You meet someone who washes his gravel every month with normal tap water and
>your first reaction would be "OH My God, what in the crazy world are you
>doing? Get your things straight man and start thinking". I dint find it nice
>to include some regularly used harsh phrases but even with that, what are
>the chances that the person will take an offence to it? Moreover, what are
>the chances that he really wants to learn why you mean that?
>
>
>
>If he wants to help himself, he will ask for help, else he can keep living
>with plastics and forget the real thing. I am just a bit surprised if he
>dint have plastic floating fish in the tank with the kind of attitude he
>showed.
>
>
>
>Not that I am against plastic decor, I myself have had that but it's the
>attitude that was taken against a genuine advice that was give in a slightly
>harsh tone. Maybe he was one of those kids who dialled 911 when scolded by
>his parents :-s
>
>
>
>Lets put an end to a baseless argument and try to be a little more polite to
>a new comer ;)
>
>
>
>Nim
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
>·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
>PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
>the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
>SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
><º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
>We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16401 From: George Kawalauskas Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
I just joined the news letter but all I have heard is
rules of etiquette. Good bye

--- Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@...> wrote:

> A Lot has been said.
>
>
>
> I personally think that it was no ones fault that
> the poor new comer left
> the group. Yes, some harsh words were spoken but if
> the person really came
> to learn something from the group then his attitude
> would have been
> different towards it.
>
>
>
> You meet someone who washes his gravel every month
> with normal tap water and
> your first reaction would be "OH My God, what in the
> crazy world are you
> doing? Get your things straight man and start
> thinking". I dint find it nice
> to include some regularly used harsh phrases but
> even with that, what are
> the chances that the person will take an offence to
> it? Moreover, what are
> the chances that he really wants to learn why you
> mean that?
>
>
>
> If he wants to help himself, he will ask for help,
> else he can keep living
> with plastics and forget the real thing. I am just a
> bit surprised if he
> dint have plastic floating fish in the tank with the
> kind of attitude he
> showed.
>
>
>
> Not that I am against plastic decor, I myself have
> had that but it's the
> attitude that was taken against a genuine advice
> that was give in a slightly
> harsh tone. Maybe he was one of those kids who
> dialled 911 when scolded by
> his parents :-s
>
>
>
> Lets put an end to a baseless argument and try to be
> a little more polite to
> a new comer ;)
>
>
>
> Nim
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


George Kawalauskas

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16402 From: deborahgd14 Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Angel fish
The angels ate them. I am setting up another tank for them and see
what happens. I'm thrilled to have witnessed a spawning. Deborah D

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kristopher helsing
<punk3r12@y...> wrote:
>
> Just a shot in the dark here... but if youve only got the 2
angelfish then your water chemistry is great... but the eggs will be
best suited for fish food without a male in the tank. Fish will
still lay eggs without the male but they arent fertilized.....
remember back in 5th grade when they gave you a class on where babys
come from... hehe just kidding and sorry for being a smartass if you
have a male in there. If thy are on a leaf you should have a small
tank with the same water in it asd that tank and remove the eggs by
moving the leav( in my opinion. however be ready with very small
food for them or your going to have a heck of a time raising fry.
>
> Kris
>
> deborahgd14 <deborahgd14@y...> wrote:
> Hello All: I am so excited!! My two angels were sexed as two
> females. Well, today I saw them hanging around a sword plant and
were
> acting very agressive towards others. Come to find out, I have
angel
> eggs on the sword plant. I don't know what to do with the rest of
the
> fish. I have two plecos, red tail shark, clown loaches and many
> tetras. Will they eat the eggs or fry? This was an unexpected
> surprise. So exciting. Deborah D
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Photos
> Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events,
holidays, whatever.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16403 From: deborahgd14 Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Angel fish
The angels ate them. I am setting up another tank for them and see
what happens. I'm thrilled to have witnessed a spawning. Deborah D

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kristopher helsing
<punk3r12@y...> wrote:
>
> Just a shot in the dark here... but if youve only got the 2
angelfish then your water chemistry is great... but the eggs will be
best suited for fish food without a male in the tank. Fish will
still lay eggs without the male but they arent fertilized.....
remember back in 5th grade when they gave you a class on where babys
come from... hehe just kidding and sorry for being a smartass if you
have a male in there. If thy are on a leaf you should have a small
tank with the same water in it asd that tank and remove the eggs by
moving the leav( in my opinion. however be ready with very small
food for them or your going to have a heck of a time raising fry.
>
> Kris
>
> deborahgd14 <deborahgd14@y...> wrote:
> Hello All: I am so excited!! My two angels were sexed as two
> females. Well, today I saw them hanging around a sword plant and
were
> acting very agressive towards others. Come to find out, I have
angel
> eggs on the sword plant. I don't know what to do with the rest of
the
> fish. I have two plecos, red tail shark, clown loaches and many
> tetras. Will they eat the eggs or fry? This was an unexpected
> surprise. So exciting. Deborah D
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Photos
> Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events,
holidays, whatever.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16404 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
If you have not left yet ask a question or post something.
We don't always spend time discussing the finer points of etiquette.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: George Kawalauskas <kawalaug@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 10:51:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Red Ludwigia


I just joined the news letter but all I have heard is
rules of etiquette. Good bye


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16405 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/19/2006
Subject: Re: Red Ludwigia
He has left Mike.



I would appreciate this topic to be closed now as its pointless to argue on
this front. I think that humans are slightly more intelligent then animals
so they will not follow a pattern taken by a couple.



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: 19 January 2006 22:17
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Red Ludwigia



If you have not left yet ask a question or post something.
We don't always spend time discussing the finer points of etiquette.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: George Kawalauskas <kawalaug@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 10:51:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Red Ludwigia


I just joined the news letter but all I have heard is
rules of etiquette. Good bye


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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2&.sig=H3b2Q3LLNK6sakdMEZccgA> kingdom

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mania&w3=San+francisco+bay+area&w4=United+kingdom&w5=South+africa&c=5&s=102&
.sig=fIKGg6IuoEuXo8z6-BELaw> africa





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16406 From: harry perry Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Red Ludwigia/ An unfortunate situation./ A moderator's view.
I don't see where anyone is to blame for this. This is a public forum, folks will voice their opinion. Personally I like my plastic plants. They go well with my plastic fish and also with my diver and the bubbling treasure chest. Cuts down on water changes and fish food.

I didn't read anything that was exceptionally rude. What I read was an opinion and an overly sensitive response.

This group is all about keeping fish. Some folks are passionate about there way of doing things. It doesn't mean that they're right and everyone else is wrong. It just means that their opinion is different from someone else's.

It's time to move on. Let's get back to our main obsession. Keeping fish.

Harry



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16407 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: OT: Rules of Behavior
In light of the recent discussion of Live vs. Plastic and who was rude to
who (personally, I don't think any one was rude, but that is another story)
I present these following rules of behavior so that we may better understand
the actions and reactions of some people.

The rules for being an Internet pill, reprinted here in their entirety,
courtesy of the Pills of the American Internet Neighborhood Society (PAINS):

RULES FOR TROLLS AND PILLS

WHEREAS, 95 percent of all the e-mail received by critics and columnists is
civil, friendly or respectfully constructive;

but WHEREAS, this is the Internet age, and we're all anonymous and can avoid
making eye contact forever;

and WHEREAS, there's so much information overload, a little heat and drama
on your part may be necessary just to be heard above the din;

and WHEREAS, many of those who fire off potshots are missing out on some of
the best techniques for effective snippiness;

THEREFORE let us now post the rules for membership in the Pills of the
American Internet Neighborhood Society.

1. Use the strongest language possible. Calling names is always effective,
and four-letter words show that you mean
business.

2. Having a violent opinion of something doesn't require you to actually try
it yourself. After all, plenty of people
heatedly object to books they haven't read or movies they haven't seen.
Heck, you can imagine perfectly well if
something is any good.

3. If it's a positive review that you didn't like, call the reviewer a
"fanboy." Do not entertain the notion that the
product, service, show, movie, book or restaurant might, in fact, be good.
Instead, assume that the reviewer has received payment from the reviewee.
Work in the word "shill" if possible.

4. If it's a negative review, call the reviewer a "basher" and describe the
review as a "hatchet job." Accuse him of
being paid off by the reviewee's *rival*.

5. If it's a mixed review, ignore the passages that balance the argument.
Pretend that the entire review is all positive or all negative. Refer to it
either as a "rave" or a "slam."

6. If you find a sentence early in the article that rubs you the wrong way,
you are by no means obligated to finish
reading. Stop right where you are--express your anger while it's still good
and hot! What are the odds that the writer is going to say anything else
relevant to your point later in the piece, anyway?

7. If the writer responds to your e-mail with evidence that you're wrong
(for example, by citing a paragraph that you overlooked), disappear without
responding. This is the anonymous Internet; slipping away without
consequence or civility is your privilege.

8. Trolling is making a deliberately inflammatory remark, one that you know
perfectly well is baloney, just to get a rise out of other people. Trolling
is an art. Trolling works just fine for an audience of one (say, a
journalist), but of
course the real fun is trolling on public bulletin boards where you can get
dozens of people screaming at you
simultaneously. Comments on religion, politics or Mac-vs.-Windows are always
good bets. The talented troll sits back to enjoy the fireworks with a smirk,
and never, ever responds to the responses.

9. Don't let generalities slip by. Don't tolerate simplifications for the
sake of a non-technical audience. Ignore conditional words like "generally,"
"usually" and "most." If you read a sentence that says, for example, "The
VisionPhone is among the first consumer videophones," cite the reviewer's
ignorance and laziness for failing to mention the prototype developed by
AT&T for the 1964 World's Fair. Send copies of your note to the
publication's publisher and, if possible, its advertisers.

And there you have it: the nine habits of highly effective pills. After all:
if you're going to be a miserable
curmudgeon, you may as well do it up right!

\\Steve//
"It is much easier to suggest solutions when you don't know too
much about the problem." - Malcolm Forbes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16408 From: Patrick Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: OT: Rules of Behavior
They look a lot like the rules for the debate group. :)

Patrick
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariumdebates


----- Original Message -----

In light of the recent discussion of Live vs. Plastic and who was rude to
who (personally, I don't think any one was rude, but that is another story)
I present these following rules of behavior so that we may better understand
the actions and reactions of some people.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16409 From: Kevin Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Gouramis, Plants, & Snails
I have heard before that blue gouramis will eat small snails. Has anyone actually seen this
with their own eyes? Also, I have heard that gouramis will rip up live plants. Is this true? I
kept gouramis when I was a kid, but back then I used plastic plants.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16410 From: Ty Drake Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: Gouramis, Plants, & Snails
Depends what ones you get i think (
http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/In-The-Zone/) small ones won't but the
giant goramui will :)

Thanks,
Ty,

On 1/21/06, Kevin <kevin-moseley@...> wrote:
>
> I have heard before that blue gouramis will eat small snails. Has anyone
> actually seen this
> with their own eyes? Also, I have heard that gouramis will rip up live
> plants. Is this true? I
> kept gouramis when I was a kid, but back then I used plastic plants.
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
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> romania<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Bucharest+romania&w1=Biology&w2=Bucharest+romania&w3=San+francisco+bay+area&w4=United+kingdom&w5=South+africa&c=5&s=102&.sig=8oLzFc4GWawQ8V-74Hx4_A> San
> francisco bay area<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=San+francisco+bay+area&w1=Biology&w2=Bucharest+romania&w3=San+francisco+bay+area&w4=United+kingdom&w5=South+africa&c=5&s=102&.sig=qkPFMHlXyRFUGeMMnP5r6Q> United
> kingdom<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=United+kingdom&w1=Biology&w2=Bucharest+romania&w3=San+francisco+bay+area&w4=United+kingdom&w5=South+africa&c=5&s=102&.sig=H3b2Q3LLNK6sakdMEZccgA> South
> africa<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=South+africa&w1=Biology&w2=Bucharest+romania&w3=San+francisco+bay+area&w4=United+kingdom&w5=South+africa&c=5&s=102&.sig=fIKGg6IuoEuXo8z6-BELaw>
> ------------------------------
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>
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>
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> ------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16412 From: Karen Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Going Broke
Okay, I've bought an RO unit and a UV and Prime. So hopefully that
will take care of the chloramine problem in our water. NOW: I read
that Kent Sea Salt will take care of "reconstituting" the water so
that I don't have to add anything else. Have you found this to be
true and do all the sea salt mixes do this or is it just unique to the
Kent salt? Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16413 From: Joe Golesh Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: Filters?
No contest as far I am concerned. Go for a wet/dry filter system with
surface extraction. The best filter system you can get.

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "wantvws" <rml1963@n...> wrote:
>
> I'm setting up a 210 gallon fish only saltwater tank (still!) and I
am
> debating on the filtration. I'm currently looking at 2 Fluval 404
> canister filters, 2 Marineland Magnum 350's, or 2 Aquaclear 110's.
Is
> one setup better than the others? The only one I have seen in action
> is the Fluval and I really like the fact that it is quiet. Thanks in
> advance!
> Robbie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16414 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: distilled water
Ty,
I will say this as nice as I can.
You are spamming the group with your OT post of a fan club.
Perhaps this is not the place for this.
Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Ty Drake <lordsion@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 07:48:02 +1100
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: distilled water


http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/In-The-Zone/


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16415 From: fish_guru2001 Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: hello fish friends,
hello fish friends,

hello everyone,

i just wanted to tell you about this new site, this site is for all
pets. exotics of all kinds! i found pets for sale i didn't know you
could have for a pet. i thought that was kool
the web site is at http://petworldforum.com

you cna chat with me on messenger

fish guru
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16416 From: wantvws Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: Filters?
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Golesh" <j_sgolesh@h...> wrote:
>
> No contest as far I am concerned. Go for a wet/dry filter system with
> surface extraction. The best filter system you can get.


Thanks! I was shying away from the hang-on filters...any particular
brand or model you (or anyone) can recommend?
Thanks again!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16417 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/20/2006
Subject: Re: Going Broke
Any marine mix should give you good water for the tank.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Karen
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 4:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Going Broke

Okay, I've bought an RO unit and a UV and Prime. So hopefully that
will take care of the chloramine problem in our water. NOW: I read
that Kent Sea Salt will take care of "reconstituting" the water so
that I don't have to add anything else. Have you found this to be
true and do all the sea salt mixes do this or is it just unique to the
Kent salt? Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16418 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Acriflavine and waterplant death and Guppy Infertility
Hello, I would like to know

whether Acriflavine

really can kill water plants such as Elodea, and whether it can cause
Guppy infertility?

Thanks, Thomas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16419 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Re: Gouramis, Plants, & Snails
We had blue gourami's for a while. What we noticed is that when we had
ONE gourami, it was peaceable and gentle, ate small snails but left our
large ornamental one alone. When we had TWO gouramis of any type, they
were constantly fighting each other and picking on the other fish. Not
sure if it is the same for everyone, but it is what we noticed in our
tanks.

Never had any problem with them ripping up plants, but they do seem to
like lurking under floating plants, so maybe provide them with some
floaters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16420 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: CO2 - Fertilizer
Hello,

I have read that, to make those Riccia-plants really grow well, one
might do well in fertilizing with CO2, even if only
through "amateurish means".

What does this mean?

should one put in some bottle a CO2 producing fermentation process
(alcoholic fermentation ?) and guide the CO2 through a flexible tube
into the aquarium?

I have in my 20 Gallons tank only very few Guppies, that probably do
not produce much CO2, and the water quite turbulent due to my 4 W
inside Filter, probably driving out gases quickly.

In that case such amateurish CO2 methods make sense?

best wishes, Thomas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16421 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Whale in Thames - London
Very sad that it could not be saved :-( despite mammoth efforts.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16422 From: harry perry Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Re: CO2 - Fertilizer/Thomas
The 2 main ingredients for plant growth is light and food. Co2 can be substituted by using flourish excel.

Harry

Thomas Schlemmermeyer <evolthomas@...> wrote:
Hello,

I have read that, to make those Riccia-plants really grow well, one
might do well in fertilizing with CO2, even if only
through "amateurish means".

What does this mean?

should one put in some bottle a CO2 producing fermentation process
(alcoholic fermentation ?) and guide the CO2 through a flexible tube
into the aquarium?

I have in my 20 Gallons tank only very few Guppies, that probably do
not produce much CO2, and the water quite turbulent due to my 4 W
inside Filter, probably driving out gases quickly.

In that case such amateurish CO2 methods make sense?

best wishes, Thomas







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16423 From: lowjack989 Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: driftwood selection help need
Hello everyone I'm begining a new fresh water planted tank and I was
looking for some advice on which types of wood are the best for
attachingplants with no adverse effect to water quality any help would
be greatly appreciated, i have just prep some petrified Tulip Poplar
would this be acceptable for my fauna to attach and thrive
Thank You,
Cichfreak
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16424 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Re: driftwood selection help need
Any thing you find in a shop should be OK. If you are collecting your own,
then you'll need to clean an d sterilize it prior to adding it to your tank.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of lowjack989
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 8:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] driftwood selection help need

Hello everyone I'm begining a new fresh water planted tank and I was
looking for some advice on which types of wood are the best for
attachingplants with no adverse effect to water quality any help would
be greatly appreciated, i have just prep some petrified Tulip Poplar
would this be acceptable for my fauna to attach and thrive
Thank You,
Cichfreak
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16425 From: Deirdre Marr Date: 1/21/2006
Subject: Loss of Feather Duster Head?
Hello All,

I came home from a movie tonight and saw that one of my feather dusters had 'lost' his/
her feathery head!

What does this mean? Should I remove the head from the tank? I tried to find info. on the
internet but it was conflicting, one site said the head loss was due to stress but another
site said the loss of the feathers was normal moulting.

Any help/information would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thank you!

Deirdre Marr
Dallas, TX
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16426 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/22/2006
Subject: Re: driftwood selection help need
Cichfreak, Petrified wood such as your Tulip Poplar is mineralized wood,
whereby there is no actual wood remaining, but instead the minerals that have
permeated the wood's cells and have formed the same shape and structure as the
original wood. Very decorative, but unless this was sold through a LFS, it
could contain minerals harmful to your fish. Even then, I would test it first
with an expendable fish, unless the fish store certifies that its safe. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16427 From: Rob Dobson Date: 1/22/2006
Subject: Introduction
Hi, My name is Rob and i have been keeping Tropical freshwater fish on and off for 13 years. At the current time i have 6 fish tanks housing the following: Tank 1 - Community, lots of loaches & tetras plus vaious other fishTank 2 - Malawi Cichlids - all Mbuna, no open water fishTank 3 - Geophagus surinamensis Tank 4 - GuppiesTank 5 - A few plantsTank 6 - Empty at the current time At some point I will probably bring another tank online, however I'm trying to keep the number of tanks i have to a mangeable level at the moment. Cheers, Rob


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16428 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/22/2006
Subject: Tetra's Swimming Tilted to the Side
Four Buenos Aires Tetras, swimming swiftly and skillfully but often on a 45
degree angle to the side. This morning all four are impacted, last week I
did notice that one occasionally tilted to the side when drifting on the
current, but only rarely. How to treat, and will it effect their Synodontis
Petricola tank mates? Having lurked on the list for a year, I know complete
information is the first request, so here it is!



History:

The Tetras are my cycle fish and I intend to keep them in my
quarantine/hospital tank when not otherwise occupied to maintain the
bio-filter in that tank. Two Tetras were purchased 11/20/2005 and put into
the 10 gallon quarantine tank. Experienced the expected ammonia and nitrite
spikes during the next 30 days. On 12/12/2005 readings were ammonia=0,
nitrite=0, nitrate=20. I added two more Tetras. Since then weekly 30%
water changes keep the nitrates under 40, usually they hover around 20. I
have had zero ammonia and nitrite readings in that tank ever since. I've
got a Millennium 3000 Wet-Dry filter on that tank (it's huge, but it won't
work with the background in the 38). I change the filter cartridges
monthly.



I used material from the 10 gallon to seed bacteria when setting up the 38
gallon on 12/20/2005 with the ultimate goal of a mbuna tank. Into the 38
went substrate, and used filter cartridges from the 10. I also put one
container of canister filter media into the 10 for a period of time so the
bacteria could grow there too; this went into an Eheim Ecco canister filter
for the 38 gallon tank, rated for 60 gallons.



I was away over the holidays, so left the 4 Tetras in the 10 and maintained
the biofilter in the 38 artificially using pure ammonia; the reading was
kept at .25 while the tank was vacant. The biofilter appeared to be well
established.I never had a nitrite reading, and the nitrate readings were at
.25 within two days of start-up. On 12/29/2005 I added three Synodontis
Petricola to the 38. Nitrates gradually climbed to 10ppm on 1/8/2006 and
have stayed at 10 since then.



On 01/13/2006 the Tetras were moved to the 38 gallon tank to make room for a
group of newly acquired mbunas who now occupy the quarantine tank.



Today's readings (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, no strips):

Temp 79-80

pH 8.0

Ammonia 0

Nitrite 0

Nitrate 10

GH 10



I have well water, so no chlorine issues. The water is pH=7.8 and GH=5 out
of the tap. The substrate and rockwork raised tank water to pH=8.0 and
GH=10 without treatment. I add a pinch of Epsom salts to new water during
water changes so it matches the tank water. I have asked several LFS about
testing for iron.they do not carry the test kits and advised this was not
necessary in this area, even for well water.



Thanks for your help!









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16429 From: hank voss Date: 1/22/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra's Swimming Tilted to the Side
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@o...>
wrote:
>
> Four Buenos Aires Tetras, swimming swiftly and skillfully but
often on a 45
> degree angle to the side. This morning all four are impacted, la
>
>

Donna:


If your tetras are only swimming that way occasionaly there is
no problem tetras (espc. males) do this quite often it is a display
thing to them to see whos boss of the territory or are getting
ready to spawn If they are swimming like that all the time you
mighthave a problem and i dont think meds will help.

Regards Hank





>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16430 From: A J Myers Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: driftwood selection help need
I have a large selection of driftwood that I would like to put in my
tank also. What is the best way to sterilize it? Thanks

*A J*
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16431 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Danios are coldwater fish??
I thought that zebra danios were tropical fish, but someone just told me that they can be raised as cold water fish. So now I'm confused. What is the best way to keep them??
Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16432 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: Danios are coldwater fish??
They are cooler water tropical fish. Their ideal temperature is between 21C
to 25C.

They can be raised as cold water because they can survive at temperatures as
low as 16-18C which is too low for more tropical fish and perfectly suitable
for Cold water fish. Its not that 16C is the best temperature for them but
if kept at 21/22, you can even keep cold water fish at that temperatures
comfortably.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Emily Tenczar
Sent: 23 January 2006 16:45
To: AquaticLife; Freshwater Aquariums; UniQuaria
Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios are coldwater fish??



I thought that zebra danios were tropical fish, but someone just told me
that they can be raised as cold water fish. So now I'm confused. What is the
best way to keep them??
Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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San
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United
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2&.sig=H3b2Q3LLNK6sakdMEZccgA> kingdom

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.sig=fIKGg6IuoEuXo8z6-BELaw> africa





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16433 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: Danios are coldwater fish??
they can be raised in cooler water than most tropicals, but are not "cold
water fish" in the sense that some (but not all) goldfish are. mid 60's to
low 70's are just fine for danios
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emily Tenczar" <bababanana@...>
To: "AquaticLife" <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>; "Freshwater Aquariums"
<freshwateraquariums@yahoogroups.com>; "UniQuaria"
<UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 11:44 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios are coldwater fish??


I thought that zebra danios were tropical fish, but someone just told me
that they can be raised as cold water fish. So now I'm confused. What is the
best way to keep them??
Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16434 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: Danios are coldwater fish??
I currently have my danios residing in a guppy tank at about 75F. Would it be better to lower the temp, or move the danios to the unheated fathead tank?
Emily

Kevin E Boyle <kvnbyl@...> wrote:
they can be raised in cooler water than most tropicals, but are not "cold
water fish" in the sense that some (but not all) goldfish are. mid 60's to
low 70's are just fine for danios
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emily Tenczar" <bababanana@...>
To: "AquaticLife" <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>; "Freshwater Aquariums"
<freshwateraquariums@yahoogroups.com>; "UniQuaria"
<UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 11:44 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios are coldwater fish??


I thought that zebra danios were tropical fish, but someone just told me
that they can be raised as cold water fish. So now I'm confused. What is the
best way to keep them??
Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16435 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra's Swimming Tilted to the Side
Weird, they seem to swim upright when the tank lights are on, but in the am
before the tank lights come on, they are swimming on their sides.



They also seem a little beat up.scales missing or some kind of patchiness,
no fin damage. Related? (There are more rocks in this tank.)



I've been researching Neon Tetra Disease, but the swimming problems
associated with that seem due to deformity. I see no deformity.



I'd love to help the tetras, and I really don't want anything to happen to
the Petricolas!



_____

From: Donna Ransome [mailto:djransome@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 11:02 AM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: Tetra's Swimming Tilted to the Side



Four Buenos Aires Tetras, swimming swiftly and skillfully but often on a 45
degree angle to the side. This morning all four are impacted, last week I
did notice that one occasionally tilted to the side when drifting on the
current, but only rarely. How to treat, and will it effect their Synodontis
Petricola tank mates? Having lurked on the list for a year, I know complete
information is the first request, so here it is!



History:

The Tetras are my cycle fish and I intend to keep them in my
quarantine/hospital tank when not otherwise occupied to maintain the
bio-filter in that tank. Two Tetras were purchased 11/20/2005 and put into
the 10 gallon quarantine tank. Experienced the expected ammonia and nitrite
spikes during the next 30 days. On 12/12/2005 readings were ammonia=0,
nitrite=0, nitrate=20. I added two more Tetras. Since then weekly 30%
water changes keep the nitrates under 40, usually they hover around 20. I
have had zero ammonia and nitrite readings in that tank ever since. I've
got a Millennium 3000 Wet-Dry filter on that tank (it's huge, but it won't
work with the background in the 38). I change the filter cartridges
monthly.



I used material from the 10 gallon to seed bacteria when setting up the 38
gallon on 12/20/2005 with the ultimate goal of a mbuna tank. Into the 38
went substrate, and used filter cartridges from the 10. I also put one
container of canister filter media into the 10 for a period of time so the
bacteria could grow there too; this went into an Eheim Ecco canister filter
for the 38 gallon tank, rated for 60 gallons.



I was away over the holidays, so left the 4 Tetras in the 10 and maintained
the biofilter in the 38 artificially using pure ammonia; the reading was
kept at .25 while the tank was vacant. The biofilter appeared to be well
established.I never had a nitrite reading, and the nitrate readings were at
.25 within two days of start-up. On 12/29/2005 I added three Synodontis
Petricola to the 38. Nitrates gradually climbed to 10ppm on 1/8/2006 and
have stayed at 10 since then.



On 01/13/2006 the Tetras were moved to the 38 gallon tank to make room for a
group of newly acquired mbunas who now occupy the quarantine tank.



Today's readings (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, no strips):

Temp 79-80

pH 8.0

Ammonia 0

Nitrite 0

Nitrate 10

GH 10



I have well water, so no chlorine issues. The water is pH=7.8 and GH=5 out
of the tap. The substrate and rockwork raised tank water to pH=8.0 and
GH=10 without treatment. I add a pinch of Epsom salts to new water during
water changes so it matches the tank water. I have asked several LFS about
testing for iron.they do not carry the test kits and advised this was not
necessary in this area, even for well water.



Thanks for your help!









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16436 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Re: driftwood selection help need
Soak in water to which bleach has been added for a couple of days. Then let
it dry and rinse, rinse, rinse to remove all traces of the bleach. You want
to use a plain bleach, not one with various things added to it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of A J Myers
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 9:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: driftwood selection help need

I have a large selection of driftwood that I would like to put in my
tank also. What is the best way to sterilize it? Thanks

*A J*
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16437 From: lowjack989 Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: driftwood contiued
Thanks for the advice on the wood everyone, if I could query the group
further with some breeding advice on C. Frontosa's. First of all is my
ph of 8.3 s.u. acceptable for breeding or should I up the ph to say 9.0
s.u.my water parameters are as follows ph 8.5 s.u. , Alka.520 mg/l TDS
675 mg/l my decor consists of a 16 lbs. coral base rock and I'm using
seachems marine buffer for my water and amquel+, for water detox....any
suggestions on water additives or method and what age should expect
them to be ready ...sorry for being so long winded but I many question
regarding the safty and well being of my fish. thanx again for all
input everyone

Chichfreak
P.S.
I have prep these piece i have collected and am now looking for
suggestions in regards to attachment to slate bottom and I have
attached some Java Fern its looking nice I will soon post some pix to
sohow the progress from the advice recieved
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16438 From: feather2night867 Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: Newbie saying Hello
Have a few different wet friends to say the least, have several tanks
ranging from a 75 - 2 1/2, mostly cichlids (dwarfs to the a few big
guys), few catfish and plecos, leporinus, orandas, telescope
butterfly, lionhead, I think that covers everyone, might of missed
someone, oh the large red tail shark. Of course bettas, a few of them
around the house, and a small saltwater tank my son uses for a night
light. And there are lots of other misc animals, that walk on hooves,
paws, fly, crawl around the house also. But enjoy my fish that is for
sure, just got my first fry from one pair of red jewels, they are
doing great. Feather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16439 From: lowjack989 Date: 1/23/2006
Subject: amazon sword plant in dire straits
Hello everyone, I have an amazon sword plant thatis yellowing and
showing no signs of improvement i have a poor substrate it being of the
crushed quartz vareity I believe addind to my plant failing health and
the quartz is all I have right now is it feasible to use yard dirt or
potting soil in the situation, I have been adding supplements to the
water they are as follows flourish excel, iron, and nitrogen, the tank
is a 10 gallon betta tank 1.9 watts per gallon just messing around
experimenting small before I start my new 29 gallon community planted
tank up and my new marineland 75 gallon C.Frontosa species tank I ujust
purchased so any and all advice in regards to these subjects will truly
be appreciated

thanx
Chicfreak

P.S.
what types of small chiclids make for a good 25 gallon tall community
tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16440 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/24/2006
Subject: Re: amazon sword plant in dire straits
Depends on what's in your yard dirt. I have found a way to aid plants
in poor substrate by using coffe filters (unbleached are best) you
tuck in some rinsed peat moss, laterite, and sand or vermiculite and
mebbe a fertilizer tab, tie it with a string that will decompose
rapidly, and tuck that in right beside the plant under the gravel. The
coffee filter keeps it from oozing out and clouding the water, and the
plant roots can access it easily. You can also use the water-based
fertilizers.

As for the second question, in my experience, cichlids only do well
with other cichlids...but my experience is rather limited
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16441 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 1/24/2006
Subject: Re: Danios are coldwater fish??
they are better where they are. they will do just fine at 75F. they can
tolerate lower temps, but that doesn't necessarily mean they have to have
them, and they are definitely better there than in an unheated tank
(goldfish and tropicals don't mix well)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emily Tenczar" <bababanana@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Danios are coldwater fish??


I currently have my danios residing in a guppy tank at about 75F. Would it
be better to lower the temp, or move the danios to the unheated fathead
tank?
Emily

Kevin E Boyle <kvnbyl@...> wrote:
they can be raised in cooler water than most tropicals, but are not "cold
water fish" in the sense that some (but not all) goldfish are. mid 60's to
low 70's are just fine for danios
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emily Tenczar" <bababanana@...>
To: "AquaticLife" <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>; "Freshwater Aquariums"
<freshwateraquariums@yahoogroups.com>; "UniQuaria"
<UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 11:44 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios are coldwater fish??


I thought that zebra danios were tropical fish, but someone just told me
that they can be raised as cold water fish. So now I'm confused. What is the
best way to keep them??
Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16442 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/24/2006
Subject: Re: amazon sword plant in dire straits
Amazon sword plants have a life cycle. Depending on the type you have, it is possible it is getting ready to put forth young new shoots, which cause the older larger leaves to get pretty beat up and yellowed looking. Some swords plants will put out a long "shoot" and several young plants will develop off of it. Other swords will just produce younger growth at the base. If the root system still looks good, give it some time.
Cyd

lowjack989 <lowjack989@...> wrote:
Hello everyone, I have an amazon sword plant thatis yellowing and
showing no signs of improvement i have a poor substrate it being of the
crushed quartz vareity I believe addind to my plant failing health and
the quartz is all I have right now is it feasible to use yard dirt or
potting soil in the situation, I have been adding supplements to the
water they are as follows flourish excel, iron, and nitrogen, the tank
is a 10 gallon betta tank 1.9 watts per gallon just messing around
experimenting small before I start my new 29 gallon community planted
tank up and my new marineland 75 gallon C.Frontosa species tank I ujust
purchased so any and all advice in regards to these subjects will truly
be appreciated

thanx
Chicfreak

P.S.
what types of small chiclids make for a good 25 gallon tall community
tank









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16443 From: fishyfishy95 Date: 1/25/2006
Subject: Adopted a tank
Well, I've just adopted another 30g tank from yet another co-worker
who was moving cross country and didn't want to stress her fish. She
has 3 cichlids, but didn't know what they were. I have found some
photos on websites that look similar to the fish she has. Would
someone please identify them for me?

Thanks!

Fish 1: http://www.worldcichlids.com/gallerys/gallery3/pics/BLUEY.JPG
(bascially, hers looks like this one, blue with darker blue/black
stripes)

Fish 2: http://www.worldcichlids.com/fishprofiles/m.auratus.html
(okay, it looks like this fish, but are there othere that look similar)

Fish 3: http://www.worldcichlids.com/gallerys/gallery1/pics/FISH15.JPG
(her fish is much smaller, than this)

Finally, is there any other information you can give me on the care of
the fish - she fed them some generic cichlid food, but from what I've
read so far they have a long digestive track and some may need special
food. Also, will these guys (or girls - who knows?) get along - and
how big will they get. As you can see, I'm very new to these kinds of
fish, so any information will be much appreciated!

Thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16444 From: kristopher helsing Date: 1/25/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
i think johanni and auratus... they are fairly agressive mbuna type cichlids... look up mbuna cichlids on a search engine. youll get good details.

Kris

fishyfishy95 <aves@...> wrote:
Well, I've just adopted another 30g tank from yet another co-worker
who was moving cross country and didn't want to stress her fish. She
has 3 cichlids, but didn't know what they were. I have found some
photos on websites that look similar to the fish she has. Would
someone please identify them for me?

Thanks!

Fish 1: http://www.worldcichlids.com/gallerys/gallery3/pics/BLUEY.JPG
(bascially, hers looks like this one, blue with darker blue/black
stripes)

Fish 2: http://www.worldcichlids.com/fishprofiles/m.auratus.html
(okay, it looks like this fish, but are there othere that look similar)

Fish 3: http://www.worldcichlids.com/gallerys/gallery1/pics/FISH15.JPG
(her fish is much smaller, than this)

Finally, is there any other information you can give me on the care of
the fish - she fed them some generic cichlid food, but from what I've
read so far they have a long digestive track and some may need special
food. Also, will these guys (or girls - who knows?) get along - and
how big will they get. As you can see, I'm very new to these kinds of
fish, so any information will be much appreciated!

Thanks!








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16445 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 1/25/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
A 30g tank with a Melanochromis, a Pseudotropheus and a Nimbochromis
livingstonii looks very unstable at first. Most melanochromis species look
very similar but if it is yellow, it’s a female and that is a very good
thing as females are not as aggressive as the males.

The Pseudotropheus if with darker bands sounds more like a Pseudotropheus
mbamba or elongates – longpelvic. If it’s a male, it could cause problem to
others and by the sounds of it, it does look like a male. As long as you
don’t mix another male mbuna with it, it will be fine in such a small tank.

Nimbochromis livingstonii is fairly peaceful as compared to the pother 2 (I
said in comparison, it is still included in the class of one of the most
aggressive fish). It can out grow the tank but then again if you are not
adding any fish in there, they should be fine.

Personally, I would not dare to add anything else in this tank except plecs
or synodontis catfish. All 3 of these are designed to kill and will kill
anything that cannot fend for itself and they don’t care about the size.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kristopher helsing
Sent: 25 January 2006 22:03
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Adopted a tank



i think johanni and auratus... they are fairly agressive mbuna type
cichlids... look up mbuna cichlids on a search engine. youll get good
details.

Kris

fishyfishy95 <aves@...> wrote:
Well, I've just adopted another 30g tank from yet another co-worker
who was moving cross country and didn't want to stress her fish. She
has 3 cichlids, but didn't know what they were. I have found some
photos on websites that look similar to the fish she has. Would
someone please identify them for me?

Thanks!

Fish 1: http://www.worldcichlids.com/gallerys/gallery3/pics/BLUEY.JPG
(bascially, hers looks like this one, blue with darker blue/black
stripes)

Fish 2: http://www.worldcichlids.com/fishprofiles/m.auratus.html
(okay, it looks like this fish, but are there othere that look similar)

Fish 3: http://www.worldcichlids.com/gallerys/gallery1/pics/FISH15.JPG
(her fish is much smaller, than this)

Finally, is there any other information you can give me on the care of
the fish - she fed them some generic cichlid food, but from what I've
read so far they have a long digestive track and some may need special
food. Also, will these guys (or girls - who knows?) get along - and
how big will they get. As you can see, I'm very new to these kinds of
fish, so any information will be much appreciated!

Thanks!








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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San
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2&.sig=H3b2Q3LLNK6sakdMEZccgA> kingdom

South
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16446 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/25/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
i have some juvies like in the 1st picture. i've been
told they are blue zebras. i keep them in a tank with
some yellow labs. aggressive, but i guess not as
aggressive as some cichlids. i feed them spirulina
flakes right now because the cichlid pellets i bought
them are too big. when they get big enough i will
start feeding them the hikari cichlid pellets.

--- fishyfishy95 <aves@...> wrote:

> Well, I've just adopted another 30g tank from yet
> another co-worker
> who was moving cross country and didn't want to
> stress her fish. She
> has 3 cichlids, but didn't know what they were. I
> have found some
> photos on websites that look similar to the fish she
> has. Would
> someone please identify them for me?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Fish 1:
>
http://www.worldcichlids.com/gallerys/gallery3/pics/BLUEY.JPG
>
> (bascially, hers looks like this one, blue with
> darker blue/black
> stripes)
>
> Fish 2:
>
http://www.worldcichlids.com/fishprofiles/m.auratus.html
>
> (okay, it looks like this fish, but are there othere
> that look similar)
>
> Fish 3:
>
http://www.worldcichlids.com/gallerys/gallery1/pics/FISH15.JPG
> (her fish is much smaller, than this)
>
> Finally, is there any other information you can give
> me on the care of
> the fish - she fed them some generic cichlid food,
> but from what I've
> read so far they have a long digestive track and
> some may need special
> food. Also, will these guys (or girls - who knows?)
> get along - and
> how big will they get. As you can see, I'm very new
> to these kinds of
> fish, so any information will be much appreciated!
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16447 From: Treston Tyrues Date: 1/25/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
HI

I WAS WONDERING DO U KNOW OF A TANK I WOULD BE ABLE TO ADOPT

fishyfishy95 <aves@...> wrote:
Well, I've just adopted another 30g tank from yet another co-worker
who was moving cross country and didn't want to stress her fish. She
has 3 cichlids, but didn't know what they were. I have found some
photos on websites that look similar to the fish she has. Would
someone please identify them for me?

Thanks!

Fish 1: http://www.worldcichlids.com/gallerys/gallery3/pics/BLUEY.JPG
(bascially, hers looks like this one, blue with darker blue/black
stripes)

Fish 2: http://www.worldcichlids.com/fishprofiles/m.auratus.html
(okay, it looks like this fish, but are there othere that look similar)

Fish 3: http://www.worldcichlids.com/gallerys/gallery1/pics/FISH15.JPG
(her fish is much smaller, than this)

Finally, is there any other information you can give me on the care of
the fish - she fed them some generic cichlid food, but from what I've
read so far they have a long digestive track and some may need special
food. Also, will these guys (or girls - who knows?) get along - and
how big will they get. As you can see, I'm very new to these kinds of
fish, so any information will be much appreciated!

Thanks!








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16448 From: fishyfishy95 Date: 1/26/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
Thanks for all your help in identifying the fish. So far, everyone
seems to be peaceful - but that may be because they are still
relatively small and able to "claim" a space of their own. Once
again, this just goes to show you how irresponsible people can be
when getting fish, and in my co-worker's case, how irresponsible it
is to purchase fish from major retail stores (the big W, in her
case). It's unfortunate that these places are even allowed to sell
fish, and in some cases even birds and small rodents. Here in the
U.S. I would say that we have become a disposable society, with
little thought or care for the animals, especially when these
animals are so accessible that you can purchase one on a whim when
going ot the grocery store to buy bread.

Sorry for the rant. I sure wish there was something I could do to
prevent animals being sold like this.

Oh, and as for adopting this tank, I don't do this for a living, or
know of any organized effort to adopt out unwanted tanks - I just
happened to be working with some people who were moving and didn't
want to deal with the hassle of moving their tank across county.
Their initial solution to the problem - flush the fish (it just
burns me to even think about this!)

Finally, I've had some good insight into what the fish may be - as
soon as I can, I'll try to get some photos up so that you all can
see what they look like. I'm now concerned about their potential
aggressiveness, potential adult size, and if I should be thinking
about getting a larger tank (which I really can't afford to do) or
else finding someone who would be interested in taking one of the
fish.

Now that I'm all riled up, let me just mention another pet-peeve:
ink-dyed fish. Agh! What were they thinking!?!

Anyway, thanks for the information, and sorry about the rants!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16449 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 1/26/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
You have: (1) Metriaclima zebra, (2) Melanochromis auratus and (3)
Nimbochromis livingstonii, in that order. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16450 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/26/2006
Subject: CNN.com - Scientists discover world's smallest fish - Jan 26, 2006
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16451 From: Philp Bob Andrew Dick Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: new to marine and ruining little lives...
I am in dire need of major help here guys... This could be long and
drawn out, please bare with me...

29g, 2 aquaclear 50 hob filters (200 gph each), 1 air stone, 1 150
watt heater, FOWLS

29 g that was a cycled high brackish (.015) housing 2 very small
figure 8 puffers, 2 very small green spot puffers. The tank had a
black sand bed which 1 month ago I added live aggrogite. This made
the bed 2 1/2- 3 inches deep... I began slowly (over a couple of
weeks) increasing salinity (.002 per 3 days). I found a small
valentini puffer (for only $8!) and added him to the mix...
I lost a figure 8, got weak, pulled to intake, (in middle of the
night) and had ripped open, was there for up to 8 hours. When I woke
and found it I pulled it and did a 50% wc. Later that day I lost the
other figure 8. (This is now a week and a half ago) I then set up an
emergency hospital with a 10g I had just gotten home. I set it to the
same salinity and temp (.021, 82) and bagged up my 3 remaining fish.
I floated these guys for 1 hour and set them free... This tank I
placed 1 of my aquaclear 50's on which had been cycled on 29 g prior
to this eppisode (lightly rinsed off left over food but not enough to
destroy the good stuff).
I had test done on 29g: amonia= 3.0, nitrite= 3.3, nitrate= 135, ph=
8.1
I then did a 75% wc and had retested: amonia= 2.8, nitrite= 3.0,
nitrate= 133, ph= 8.1
Another round at 75%: am= 2.0, nit= 3.0, nit= 130, ph= 8.0

I this time stir all the bed, turning it over looking closely for
anything left behind... Nothing. Break down the last filter, rinse it
thuroghly... 95% wc: am=2.0, nit= 3.3, nit= 130, ph=7.9
Test water being used for wc: am= 0.0, nit= 0.0, nit= 0, ph= 8.1
All this and maintaning sg of .021

During testing of main tank I loose 1 gsp. Notice that other has
cloudy poped eye which i assumed to be popeye. Valentini still
looking beautiful (owned for 3 day at this point) although realise i
have yet to see it eat, thinking it is nocturnal and is still shy and
now probobly stressed, I go on. I purchase myracine 2 and begin
treating hospital.
Being that this tank was not properly cycled (did not have choice)
and my other tank is going nuts on me, I am wc every other day at
50%, and vacuming food every feeding.

The gsp was looking better for a few days till 2 days ago, (except
for having stopped eatting himself for this duration of just under a
week), he began bumping into everything, bitting everything in his
face (glass, fingers, airline... not fish or food) and getting stuck
to intake. Sadly he died last night... I was unfortunate enough to
watch but was able to pull him as soon as it happend.

Now, the few remaining problems... The valentini since today has been
very dark, swiming around less, not even paying any mind to my being
in the room (which he had begun a few days ago). Do I have any hope
for him?

My 29 is now in process of a new fishless cycle, which will be a
while befor anyone can live there again.
What happend in this tank??? Why would peremiters go off the wall so
bad like that?? No food decaying, nothing dead in sand (unless it was
the sand), which leads to... Was my bed a factor in this?

I am down to 1 last fish and don't wanna go out like this... If you
have any ideas,please help.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16452 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
> HI
>
> I WAS WONDERING DO U KNOW OF A TANK I WOULD BE ABLE TO ADOPT

Check with your local schools, petsmart, and veterinarians. Those are
the first people contacted when someone decides to get rid of their
tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16453 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: Take II
Okay, well, our first bettas are all grown up and moved out into little
tanks of their own, except for one with a bit of stunted growth that we
got fond of. He's our pet in the big community tank, now. So, we have
two new breeders in our 30 gallon tank. She's a cambodian yellow
female, and he's a cambodian bronze male..all light bodied, with just a
bit of irridescent blue and yellow along the borders of his tail. I'm
hoping for great things from these two. Interestingly enough, she
seems to be helping him maintain the bubble nest. He chases her off
most of the time, but when he wants to eat, he goes to her area, she
goes to the bubble nest, and then when he's done eating, he chases her
off again. No real damage done, he just flares and darts around her
till she leaves. Interesting, no? I think I'm going to try to leave
at least the male in with the babies while they mature. There should
be plenty of infusoria in the heavily planted tank, and we've got brine
shrimp eggs ready to hatch. I've finally come upon the ideal solution
to keep babies from being sucked up in the filter tube. I take the
filters out of the tank to change them out, then use the old filter
around the tube. Plenty of infusoria for teh babies to eat there, and
it diffuses the suction greatly.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16454 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: Re: Adopted a tank
if you live in an area that craigslist services, try
them.

--- cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
wrote:

>
> > HI
> >
> > I WAS WONDERING DO U KNOW OF A TANK I WOULD
> BE ABLE TO ADOPT
>
> Check with your local schools, petsmart, and
> veterinarians. Those are
> the first people contacted when someone decides to
> get rid of their
> tank.
>
>
>
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16455 From: Sandra Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: Re: new to marine and ruining little lives...
Hi Philip,

I can just answer one of your questions - the mayor problem - for
sure. Doing a 50% waterchange every second day (or daily) to lower
the ammonia (which is way too high), nitrite and nitrate (also way
to high) doesnt really help you or your fish in the long run, as
your tank is still in the "cycle" stage and needs to be left without
fish for a few weeks so the bacteria can settle in and the high
toxic situation in your tank and lower itself. You won´t get there
changing the water every few days for 50% (of course you are doing
that cause you already have fish in there which would not survive
any longer if you left your water like that), so, as your fish are
dying, i would recommend you to leave your tank settle for a few
weeks before thinking of adding new ones and only then, when your
water tests 0 for ammonia (very important) and nitrite. I know the
temptation of adding new beautiful fishes to your tank, but your
tank 29g is WAY to small to handle such a huge bio load ( i have a
180g ! and currently only 5 fishes swimming in there). The valentini
puffer is not exactly easy in handeling either (from own experience)
and those unstable parameter won´t help a bit. We all have had to
learn from our mistakes in this hobby, unfortunatelly its always the
fishes lives that pay for it.

(your salinity and temperature are good by the way) I also wanted to
add that you most probably will need a skimmer help you eliminating
the bio load or a wet/dry filter. As it doesnt disapear by itself,
rather accumulate and cause huge damage.

I am sure you will get answer for all your other questions here,

Hang in there, this hobby can cause mayor headache at the beginning!




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Philp Bob Andrew Dick"
<luckybob611@y...> wrote:
>
> I am in dire need of major help here guys... This could be long
and
> drawn out, please bare with me...
>
> 29g, 2 aquaclear 50 hob filters (200 gph each), 1 air stone, 1 150
> watt heater, FOWLS
>
> 29 g that was a cycled high brackish (.015) housing 2 very small
> figure 8 puffers, 2 very small green spot puffers. The tank had a
> black sand bed which 1 month ago I added live aggrogite. This made
> the bed 2 1/2- 3 inches deep... I began slowly (over a couple of
> weeks) increasing salinity (.002 per 3 days). I found a small
> valentini puffer (for only $8!) and added him to the mix...
> I lost a figure 8, got weak, pulled to intake, (in middle of the
> night) and had ripped open, was there for up to 8 hours. When I
woke
> and found it I pulled it and did a 50% wc. Later that day I lost
the
> other figure 8. (This is now a week and a half ago) I then set up
an
> emergency hospital with a 10g I had just gotten home. I set it to
the
> same salinity and temp (.021, 82) and bagged up my 3 remaining
fish.
> I floated these guys for 1 hour and set them free... This tank I
> placed 1 of my aquaclear 50's on which had been cycled on 29 g
prior
> to this eppisode (lightly rinsed off left over food but not enough
to
> destroy the good stuff).
> I had test done on 29g: amonia= 3.0, nitrite= 3.3, nitrate= 135,
ph=
> 8.1
> I then did a 75% wc and had retested: amonia= 2.8, nitrite= 3.0,
> nitrate= 133, ph= 8.1
> Another round at 75%: am= 2.0, nit= 3.0, nit= 130, ph= 8.0
>
> I this time stir all the bed, turning it over looking closely for
> anything left behind... Nothing. Break down the last filter, rinse
it
> thuroghly... 95% wc: am=2.0, nit= 3.3, nit= 130, ph=7.9
> Test water being used for wc: am= 0.0, nit= 0.0, nit= 0, ph= 8.1
> All this and maintaning sg of .021
>
> During testing of main tank I loose 1 gsp. Notice that other has
> cloudy poped eye which i assumed to be popeye. Valentini still
> looking beautiful (owned for 3 day at this point) although realise
i
> have yet to see it eat, thinking it is nocturnal and is still shy
and
> now probobly stressed, I go on. I purchase myracine 2 and begin
> treating hospital.
> Being that this tank was not properly cycled (did not have choice)
> and my other tank is going nuts on me, I am wc every other day at
> 50%, and vacuming food every feeding.
>
> The gsp was looking better for a few days till 2 days ago, (except
> for having stopped eatting himself for this duration of just under
a
> week), he began bumping into everything, bitting everything in his
> face (glass, fingers, airline... not fish or food) and getting
stuck
> to intake. Sadly he died last night... I was unfortunate enough to
> watch but was able to pull him as soon as it happend.
>
> Now, the few remaining problems... The valentini since today has
been
> very dark, swiming around less, not even paying any mind to my
being
> in the room (which he had begun a few days ago). Do I have any
hope
> for him?
>
> My 29 is now in process of a new fishless cycle, which will be a
> while befor anyone can live there again.
> What happend in this tank??? Why would peremiters go off the wall
so
> bad like that?? No food decaying, nothing dead in sand (unless it
was
> the sand), which leads to... Was my bed a factor in this?
>
> I am down to 1 last fish and don't wanna go out like this... If
you
> have any ideas,please help.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16456 From: clarkmariposo25@aol.com Date: 1/27/2006
Subject: Re: Whale in Thames - London
It was sad-very, at least they tried though.

Robyn


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16457 From: Sandy Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: new to marine and ruining little lives...
He said there are no fish in the tank that is cycling... The hospital tank is what he is changing the water in... This makes your response irrelivent

Sandra <sandra_friedwagner@...> wrote: Hi Philip,

I can just answer one of your questions - the mayor problem - for
sure. Doing a 50% waterchange every second day (or daily) to lower
the ammonia (which is way too high), nitrite and nitrate (also way
to high) doesnt really help you or your fish in the long run, as
your tank is still in the "cycle" stage and needs to be left without
fish for a few weeks so the bacteria can settle in and the high
toxic situation in your tank and lower itself. You won´t get there
changing the water every few days for 50% (of course you are doing
that cause you already have fish in there which would not survive
any longer if you left your water like that), so, as your fish are
dying, i would recommend you to leave your tank settle for a few
weeks before thinking of adding new ones and only then, when your
water tests 0 for ammonia (very important) and nitrite. I know the
temptation of adding new beautiful fishes to your tank, but your
tank 29g is WAY to small to handle such a huge bio load ( i have a
180g ! and currently only 5 fishes swimming in there). The valentini
puffer is not exactly easy in handeling either (from own experience)
and those unstable parameter won´t help a bit. We all have had to
learn from our mistakes in this hobby, unfortunatelly its always the
fishes lives that pay for it.

(your salinity and temperature are good by the way) I also wanted to
add that you most probably will need a skimmer help you eliminating
the bio load or a wet/dry filter. As it doesnt disapear by itself,
rather accumulate and cause huge damage.

I am sure you will get answer for all your other questions here,

Hang in there, this hobby can cause mayor headache at the beginning!




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Philp Bob Andrew Dick"
<luckybob611@y...> wrote:
>
> I am in dire need of major help here guys... This could be long
and
> drawn out, please bare with me...
>
> 29g, 2 aquaclear 50 hob filters (200 gph each), 1 air stone, 1 150
> watt heater, FOWLS
>
> 29 g that was a cycled high brackish (.015) housing 2 very small
> figure 8 puffers, 2 very small green spot puffers. The tank had a
> black sand bed which 1 month ago I added live aggrogite. This made
> the bed 2 1/2- 3 inches deep... I began slowly (over a couple of
> weeks) increasing salinity (.002 per 3 days). I found a small
> valentini puffer (for only $8!) and added him to the mix...
> I lost a figure 8, got weak, pulled to intake, (in middle of the
> night) and had ripped open, was there for up to 8 hours. When I
woke
> and found it I pulled it and did a 50% wc. Later that day I lost
the
> other figure 8. (This is now a week and a half ago) I then set up
an
> emergency hospital with a 10g I had just gotten home. I set it to
the
> same salinity and temp (.021, 82) and bagged up my 3 remaining
fish.
> I floated these guys for 1 hour and set them free... This tank I
> placed 1 of my aquaclear 50's on which had been cycled on 29 g
prior
> to this eppisode (lightly rinsed off left over food but not enough
to
> destroy the good stuff).
> I had test done on 29g: amonia= 3.0, nitrite= 3.3, nitrate= 135,
ph=
> 8.1
> I then did a 75% wc and had retested: amonia= 2.8, nitrite= 3.0,
> nitrate= 133, ph= 8.1
> Another round at 75%: am= 2.0, nit= 3.0, nit= 130, ph= 8.0
>
> I this time stir all the bed, turning it over looking closely for
> anything left behind... Nothing. Break down the last filter, rinse
it
> thuroghly... 95% wc: am=2.0, nit= 3.3, nit= 130, ph=7.9
> Test water being used for wc: am= 0.0, nit= 0.0, nit= 0, ph= 8.1
> All this and maintaning sg of .021
>
> During testing of main tank I loose 1 gsp. Notice that other has
> cloudy poped eye which i assumed to be popeye. Valentini still
> looking beautiful (owned for 3 day at this point) although realise
i
> have yet to see it eat, thinking it is nocturnal and is still shy
and
> now probobly stressed, I go on. I purchase myracine 2 and begin
> treating hospital.
> Being that this tank was not properly cycled (did not have choice)
> and my other tank is going nuts on me, I am wc every other day at
> 50%, and vacuming food every feeding.
>
> The gsp was looking better for a few days till 2 days ago, (except
> for having stopped eatting himself for this duration of just under
a
> week), he began bumping into everything, bitting everything in his
> face (glass, fingers, airline... not fish or food) and getting
stuck
> to intake. Sadly he died last night... I was unfortunate enough to
> watch but was able to pull him as soon as it happend.
>
> Now, the few remaining problems... The valentini since today has
been
> very dark, swiming around less, not even paying any mind to my
being
> in the room (which he had begun a few days ago). Do I have any
hope
> for him?
>
> My 29 is now in process of a new fishless cycle, which will be a
> while befor anyone can live there again.
> What happend in this tank??? Why would peremiters go off the wall
so
> bad like that?? No food decaying, nothing dead in sand (unless it
was
> the sand), which leads to... Was my bed a factor in this?
>
> I am down to 1 last fish and don't wanna go out like this... If
you
> have any ideas,please help.
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

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---------------------------------






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16458 From: Cydne McCown Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Take II
That putting the old filter around the uptake is a GREAT idea! Similar to what I would do when my Angelfish wigglers would become free swimmers, I would slide a cylindrical sponge filter over the uptake. And you are right about heavily planted tanks providing microscopic food for the babies too. Now you have me thinking about putting up a betta tank too! hmmmmmm.........
Cyd

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
Okay, well, our first bettas are all grown up and moved out into little
tanks of their own, except for one with a bit of stunted growth that we
got fond of. He's our pet in the big community tank, now. So, we have
two new breeders in our 30 gallon tank. She's a cambodian yellow
female, and he's a cambodian bronze male..all light bodied, with just a
bit of irridescent blue and yellow along the borders of his tail. I'm
hoping for great things from these two. Interestingly enough, she
seems to be helping him maintain the bubble nest. He chases her off
most of the time, but when he wants to eat, he goes to her area, she
goes to the bubble nest, and then when he's done eating, he chases her
off again. No real damage done, he just flares and darts around her
till she leaves. Interesting, no? I think I'm going to try to leave
at least the male in with the babies while they mature. There should
be plenty of infusoria in the heavily planted tank, and we've got brine
shrimp eggs ready to hatch. I've finally come upon the ideal solution
to keep babies from being sucked up in the filter tube. I take the
filters out of the tank to change them out, then use the old filter
around the tube. Plenty of infusoria for teh babies to eat there, and
it diffuses the suction greatly.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS


Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


---------------------------------






---------------------------------

What are the most popular cars? Find out at Yahoo! Autos

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16459 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Take II
A side note just reading things, when my lifalli spawned in a community aquarium. Had just gottem them barely a week after they spawned in one of the community cichlid houses. Couldn't move them, and didn't want to be chasing the others around to move others into a different tank. So I tried the " put the old filter around the uptake", it works really good. Feather

Cydne McCown <cydthekid50@...> wrote: That putting the old filter around the uptake is a GREAT idea! Similar to what I would do when my Angelfish wigglers would become free swimmers, I would slide a cylindrical sponge filter over the uptake. And you are right about heavily planted tanks providing microscopic food for the babies too. Now you have me thinking about putting up a betta tank too! hmmmmmm.........
Cyd

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
Okay, well, our first bettas are all grown up and moved out into little
tanks of their own, except for one with a bit of stunted growth that we
got fond of. He's our pet in the big community tank, now. So, we have
two new breeders in our 30 gallon tank. She's a cambodian yellow
female, and he's a cambodian bronze male..all light bodied, with just a
bit of irridescent blue and yellow along the borders of his tail. I'm
hoping for great things from these two. Interestingly enough, she
seems to be helping him maintain the bubble nest. He chases her off
most of the time, but when he wants to eat, he goes to her area, she
goes to the bubble nest, and then when he's done eating, he chases her
off again. No real damage done, he just flares and darts around her
till she leaves. Interesting, no? I think I'm going to try to leave
at least the male in with the babies while they mature. There should
be plenty of infusoria in the heavily planted tank, and we've got brine
shrimp eggs ready to hatch. I've finally come upon the ideal solution
to keep babies from being sucked up in the filter tube. I take the
filters out of the tank to change them out, then use the old filter
around the tube. Plenty of infusoria for teh babies to eat there, and
it diffuses the suction greatly.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16460 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Take II
Thanks for the feedback, I was hoping I wasn't headed for trouble that
way :D I had run out of old stockings to put on the tank, and that
only worked so-so the last time, anyway. I went ahead and removed the
female today, as he was getting really aggressive with her. Huge
bubble nest. I haven't actually SEEN them mate, but I cannot imagine
it hasn't happened by now. :P If it turns out to be a bust, I'll just
try again later.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16461 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Whale in Thames - London
Yeah, and though sad, it gave people who ordinarily would never SEE a
whale that brief touch of something extrordinary. People need to
actually contact nature to love it, i think.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16462 From: Sandra Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: new to marine and ruining little lives...
He said that the hospital tank was not properly cicled but he didnt
have a choice but to put them in. The other fish were in his 29g
main tank which had died - however where the fish had been or are
now, this doesnt make my response irrelevant because the fact that
he has such a huge bio load in such a small tank (29g) without a
skimmer or a wet/dry filter could be an explanation of the high
toxic situation of his tank besides the fact that it might still be
cycling which is disturbed by all the frequent water changes, this
is an answer to his question why the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate doesnt
improve and i gave him an answer to it!

sandra


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Sandy <wassergottin@y...> wrote:
>
> He said there are no fish in the tank that is cycling... The
hospital tank is what he is changing the water in... This makes your
response irrelivent
>
> Sandra <sandra_friedwagner@h...> wrote: Hi Philip,
>
> I can just answer one of your questions - the mayor problem - for
> sure. Doing a 50% waterchange every second day (or daily) to lower
> the ammonia (which is way too high), nitrite and nitrate (also way
> to high) doesnt really help you or your fish in the long run, as
> your tank is still in the "cycle" stage and needs to be left
without
> fish for a few weeks so the bacteria can settle in and the high
> toxic situation in your tank and lower itself. You won´t get there
> changing the water every few days for 50% (of course you are doing
> that cause you already have fish in there which would not survive
> any longer if you left your water like that), so, as your fish are
> dying, i would recommend you to leave your tank settle for a few
> weeks before thinking of adding new ones and only then, when your
> water tests 0 for ammonia (very important) and nitrite. I know the
> temptation of adding new beautiful fishes to your tank, but your
> tank 29g is WAY to small to handle such a huge bio load ( i have a
> 180g ! and currently only 5 fishes swimming in there). The
valentini
> puffer is not exactly easy in handeling either (from own
experience)
> and those unstable parameter won´t help a bit. We all have had to
> learn from our mistakes in this hobby, unfortunatelly its always
the
> fishes lives that pay for it.
>
> (your salinity and temperature are good by the way) I also wanted
to
> add that you most probably will need a skimmer help you
eliminating
> the bio load or a wet/dry filter. As it doesnt disapear by itself,
> rather accumulate and cause huge damage.
>
> I am sure you will get answer for all your other questions here,
>
> Hang in there, this hobby can cause mayor headache at the
beginning!
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Philp Bob Andrew Dick"
> <luckybob611@y...> wrote:
> >
> > I am in dire need of major help here guys... This could be long
> and
> > drawn out, please bare with me...
> >
> > 29g, 2 aquaclear 50 hob filters (200 gph each), 1 air stone, 1
150
> > watt heater, FOWLS
> >
> > 29 g that was a cycled high brackish (.015) housing 2 very small
> > figure 8 puffers, 2 very small green spot puffers. The tank had
a
> > black sand bed which 1 month ago I added live aggrogite. This
made
> > the bed 2 1/2- 3 inches deep... I began slowly (over a couple of
> > weeks) increasing salinity (.002 per 3 days). I found a small
> > valentini puffer (for only $8!) and added him to the mix...
> > I lost a figure 8, got weak, pulled to intake, (in middle of the
> > night) and had ripped open, was there for up to 8 hours. When I
> woke
> > and found it I pulled it and did a 50% wc. Later that day I lost
> the
> > other figure 8. (This is now a week and a half ago) I then set
up
> an
> > emergency hospital with a 10g I had just gotten home. I set it
to
> the
> > same salinity and temp (.021, 82) and bagged up my 3 remaining
> fish.
> > I floated these guys for 1 hour and set them free... This tank I
> > placed 1 of my aquaclear 50's on which had been cycled on 29 g
> prior
> > to this eppisode (lightly rinsed off left over food but not
enough
> to
> > destroy the good stuff).
> > I had test done on 29g: amonia= 3.0, nitrite= 3.3, nitrate= 135,
> ph=
> > 8.1
> > I then did a 75% wc and had retested: amonia= 2.8, nitrite= 3.0,
> > nitrate= 133, ph= 8.1
> > Another round at 75%: am= 2.0, nit= 3.0, nit= 130, ph= 8.0
> >
> > I this time stir all the bed, turning it over looking closely
for
> > anything left behind... Nothing. Break down the last filter,
rinse
> it
> > thuroghly... 95% wc: am=2.0, nit= 3.3, nit= 130, ph=7.9
> > Test water being used for wc: am= 0.0, nit= 0.0, nit= 0, ph= 8.1
> > All this and maintaning sg of .021
> >
> > During testing of main tank I loose 1 gsp. Notice that other has
> > cloudy poped eye which i assumed to be popeye. Valentini still
> > looking beautiful (owned for 3 day at this point) although
realise
> i
> > have yet to see it eat, thinking it is nocturnal and is still
shy
> and
> > now probobly stressed, I go on. I purchase myracine 2 and begin
> > treating hospital.
> > Being that this tank was not properly cycled (did not have
choice)
> > and my other tank is going nuts on me, I am wc every other day
at
> > 50%, and vacuming food every feeding.
> >
> > The gsp was looking better for a few days till 2 days ago,
(except
> > for having stopped eatting himself for this duration of just
under
> a
> > week), he began bumping into everything, bitting everything in
his
> > face (glass, fingers, airline... not fish or food) and getting
> stuck
> > to intake. Sadly he died last night... I was unfortunate enough
to
> > watch but was able to pull him as soon as it happend.
> >
> > Now, the few remaining problems... The valentini since today has
> been
> > very dark, swiming around less, not even paying any mind to my
> being
> > in the room (which he had begun a few days ago). Do I have any
> hope
> > for him?
> >
> > My 29 is now in process of a new fishless cycle, which will be a
> > while befor anyone can live there again.
> > What happend in this tank??? Why would peremiters go off the
wall
> so
> > bad like that?? No food decaying, nothing dead in sand (unless
it
> was
> > the sand), which leads to... Was my bed a factor in this?
> >
> > I am down to 1 last fish and don't wanna go out like this... If
> you
> > have any ideas,please help.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
United kingdom South africa
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
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>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16463 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: new to marine and ruining little lives...
I don't think so...that 50% water change is bound to upset any tank,
hospital or cycling. BUT I could be wrong.

> He said there are no fish in the tank that is cycling... The hospital
tank is what he is changing the water in... This makes your response
irrelivent
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16464 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Take II
The other thing I tried and worked well was: got some sponges that I cut a hole down the center of, slide them over the uptake. This was a suggestion from LFS owner, was at a time didn't think some ot the fish were old enough to spawn, silly me they were. Another surprise a while back from the kids. Feather

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: Thanks for the feedback, I was hoping I wasn't headed for trouble that
way :D I had run out of old stockings to put on the tank, and that
only worked so-so the last time, anyway. I went ahead and removed the
female today, as he was getting really aggressive with her. Huge
bubble nest. I haven't actually SEEN them mate, but I cannot imagine
it hasn't happened by now. :P If it turns out to be a bust, I'll just
try again later.





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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---------------------------------






SHANNON LINGENFELTER


---------------------------------

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16465 From: wantvws Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Help! Sealer question!!
I am literally in the middle of resealing the last corner of my 210
gallon aquarium, and I read the instructions on the sealer (DAP
Aquarium Sealant, bought at the Home Depot) and it says "not for use
in aquariums over 30 gallons or more than 18" in depth"?????. Mine is
24" deep, FYI. Am I screwed? Or will it make a difference? I only did
the inside of the aquarium (not the joints) and only did the uprights,
because they were the only part that was bad.
Please tell me that I do not have to do this again.
Thanks in advance!!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16466 From: hank voss Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help! Sealer question!!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "wantvws" <rml1963@n...> wrote:
>
> Aquarium Sealant, bought at the Home Depot) and it says "not for use
> in aquariums over 30 gallons or more than 18" in depth"
>


Robbie:
You should be ok to go ahead sealing.That caution is more
making a tank from scratch,just make sure to clean the glass with a
solvent to remove any residue of the old cement.
Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16467 From: kristopher helsing Date: 1/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help! Sealer question!!
also they will only back up the product to that limit... after that THEY just want to take no chances.

hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote: --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "wantvws" <rml1963@n...> wrote:
>
> Aquarium Sealant, bought at the Home Depot) and it says "not for use
> in aquariums over 30 gallons or more than 18" in depth"
>


Robbie:
You should be ok to go ahead sealing.That caution is more
making a tank from scratch,just make sure to clean the glass with a
solvent to remove any residue of the old cement.
Regards Hank





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16468 From: Sandy Date: 1/29/2006
Subject: Re: new to marine and ruining little lives...
Well... The fish is now housed at a store and he is starting over so... AGAIN

Sandra <sandra_friedwagner@...> wrote: He said that the hospital tank was not properly cicled but he didnt
have a choice but to put them in. The other fish were in his 29g
main tank which had died - however where the fish had been or are
now, this doesnt make my response irrelevant because the fact that
he has such a huge bio load in such a small tank (29g) without a
skimmer or a wet/dry filter could be an explanation of the high
toxic situation of his tank besides the fact that it might still be
cycling which is disturbed by all the frequent water changes, this
is an answer to his question why the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate doesnt
improve and i gave him an answer to it!

sandra


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Sandy <wassergottin@y...> wrote:
>
> He said there are no fish in the tank that is cycling... The
hospital tank is what he is changing the water in... This makes your
response irrelivent
>
> Sandra <sandra_friedwagner@h...> wrote: Hi Philip,
>
> I can just answer one of your questions - the mayor problem - for
> sure. Doing a 50% waterchange every second day (or daily) to lower
> the ammonia (which is way too high), nitrite and nitrate (also way
> to high) doesnt really help you or your fish in the long run, as
> your tank is still in the "cycle" stage and needs to be left
without
> fish for a few weeks so the bacteria can settle in and the high
> toxic situation in your tank and lower itself. You won´t get there
> changing the water every few days for 50% (of course you are doing
> that cause you already have fish in there which would not survive
> any longer if you left your water like that), so, as your fish are
> dying, i would recommend you to leave your tank settle for a few
> weeks before thinking of adding new ones and only then, when your
> water tests 0 for ammonia (very important) and nitrite. I know the
> temptation of adding new beautiful fishes to your tank, but your
> tank 29g is WAY to small to handle such a huge bio load ( i have a
> 180g ! and currently only 5 fishes swimming in there). The
valentini
> puffer is not exactly easy in handeling either (from own
experience)
> and those unstable parameter won´t help a bit. We all have had to
> learn from our mistakes in this hobby, unfortunatelly its always
the
> fishes lives that pay for it.
>
> (your salinity and temperature are good by the way) I also wanted
to
> add that you most probably will need a skimmer help you
eliminating
> the bio load or a wet/dry filter. As it doesnt disapear by itself,
> rather accumulate and cause huge damage.
>
> I am sure you will get answer for all your other questions here,
>
> Hang in there, this hobby can cause mayor headache at the
beginning!
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Philp Bob Andrew Dick"
> <luckybob611@y...> wrote:
> >
> > I am in dire need of major help here guys... This could be long
> and
> > drawn out, please bare with me...
> >
> > 29g, 2 aquaclear 50 hob filters (200 gph each), 1 air stone, 1
150
> > watt heater, FOWLS
> >
> > 29 g that was a cycled high brackish (.015) housing 2 very small
> > figure 8 puffers, 2 very small green spot puffers. The tank had
a
> > black sand bed which 1 month ago I added live aggrogite. This
made
> > the bed 2 1/2- 3 inches deep... I began slowly (over a couple of
> > weeks) increasing salinity (.002 per 3 days). I found a small
> > valentini puffer (for only $8!) and added him to the mix...
> > I lost a figure 8, got weak, pulled to intake, (in middle of the
> > night) and had ripped open, was there for up to 8 hours. When I
> woke
> > and found it I pulled it and did a 50% wc. Later that day I lost
> the
> > other figure 8. (This is now a week and a half ago) I then set
up
> an
> > emergency hospital with a 10g I had just gotten home. I set it
to
> the
> > same salinity and temp (.021, 82) and bagged up my 3 remaining
> fish.
> > I floated these guys for 1 hour and set them free... This tank I
> > placed 1 of my aquaclear 50's on which had been cycled on 29 g
> prior
> > to this eppisode (lightly rinsed off left over food but not
enough
> to
> > destroy the good stuff).
> > I had test done on 29g: amonia= 3.0, nitrite= 3.3, nitrate= 135,
> ph=
> > 8.1
> > I then did a 75% wc and had retested: amonia= 2.8, nitrite= 3.0,
> > nitrate= 133, ph= 8.1
> > Another round at 75%: am= 2.0, nit= 3.0, nit= 130, ph= 8.0
> >
> > I this time stir all the bed, turning it over looking closely
for
> > anything left behind... Nothing. Break down the last filter,
rinse
> it
> > thuroghly... 95% wc: am=2.0, nit= 3.3, nit= 130, ph=7.9
> > Test water being used for wc: am= 0.0, nit= 0.0, nit= 0, ph= 8.1
> > All this and maintaning sg of .021
> >
> > During testing of main tank I loose 1 gsp. Notice that other has
> > cloudy poped eye which i assumed to be popeye. Valentini still
> > looking beautiful (owned for 3 day at this point) although
realise
> i
> > have yet to see it eat, thinking it is nocturnal and is still
shy
> and
> > now probobly stressed, I go on. I purchase myracine 2 and begin
> > treating hospital.
> > Being that this tank was not properly cycled (did not have
choice)
> > and my other tank is going nuts on me, I am wc every other day
at
> > 50%, and vacuming food every feeding.
> >
> > The gsp was looking better for a few days till 2 days ago,
(except
> > for having stopped eatting himself for this duration of just
under
> a
> > week), he began bumping into everything, bitting everything in
his
> > face (glass, fingers, airline... not fish or food) and getting
> stuck
> > to intake. Sadly he died last night... I was unfortunate enough
to
> > watch but was able to pull him as soon as it happend.
> >
> > Now, the few remaining problems... The valentini since today has
> been
> > very dark, swiming around less, not even paying any mind to my
> being
> > in the room (which he had begun a few days ago). Do I have any
> hope
> > for him?
> >
> > My 29 is now in process of a new fishless cycle, which will be a
> > while befor anyone can live there again.
> > What happend in this tank??? Why would peremiters go off the
wall
> so
> > bad like that?? No food decaying, nothing dead in sand (unless
it
> was
> > the sand), which leads to... Was my bed a factor in this?
> >
> > I am down to 1 last fish and don't wanna go out like this... If
> you
> > have any ideas,please help.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
United kingdom South africa
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
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>
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16469 From: DIWA WINKU Date: 1/31/2006
Subject: DIY Ca Reaktor Substrate
helo,
I have done experiment makin Ca Substrae for Ca Reacktor.
but I have a problem for testing the Ksp, and solubility in water as aTOP-UP water.



wong banten

www.o-fish.com


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16470 From: DIWA WINKU Date: 1/31/2006
Subject: MUD system
Halo all,
I'm from INDONESIA..............

Anyone have experience in MUD filtration system in Marine Aquariium?
I have 2 years Aq with NO Skimmer ,and Ca Reacktor.
I also use seagrass as VEGETATION filter.
result,....0 P,0 No2, 0No3.
interesting ?.........try MUD filtration system........CHEAP,NATURE, and works!!


wong banten

www.o-fish.com



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16471 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/31/2006
Subject: Re: MUD system
I'v never heard of such a thing...for an indoor tank, anyway. Tell us
more?


> Anyone have experience in MUD filtration system in Marine Aquariium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16472 From: wantvws Date: 1/31/2006
Subject: Heater comments?
Hello....any recommendations on size/brand of heaters for a 210 gallon
saltwater fish only setup? The aquarium is going to be in a room that
is usually 72°-75° F year-round (heat and AC). I initially thought 2
300w heater....any particular brand to stay away from?
Thanks in advance!!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16473 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/1/2006
Subject: Re: Heater comments?
I'm no expert on what heater you should get, but I am an expert on
WEIRD accidents, so whatever brand you get, make sure it is fully
immersible.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16474 From: red-eye Date: 2/1/2006
Subject: Re: Heater comments?
I have been running the same Ebojaggers non stop, for more than 15 years!
red-eye






At 06:09 AM 2/1/2006, you wrote:
>I'm no expert on what heater you should get, but I am an expert on
>WEIRD accidents, so whatever brand you get, make sure it is fully
>immersible.
>
>
>
>
>
>Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
>·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
>PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
>the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
>SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
><º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
>We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16475 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 2/1/2006
Subject: Re: Heater comments?
----- Original Message -----
From: "wantvws" <rml1963@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:33 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heater comments?


Hello....any recommendations on size/brand of heaters for a 210 gallon
saltwater fish only setup? The aquarium is going to be in a room that
is usually 72°-75° F year-round (heat and AC). I initially thought 2
300w heater....any particular brand to stay away from?
Thanks in advance!!
Robbie





i think a good controller would be the way to go, ranco makes a good one, as
does aqualogic, there is a model that will control heater and chiller, and
reduce your dependence on the heaters thermostat
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16476 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/1/2006
Subject: Reply
<http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>



I am a new member and I understand that all new member emails are filtered
prior to posting. I am not here to cause any problems and have found other
fish groups to be very informative. I also own a very small business that
manufactures holiday decorations for fish tanks. No one else does this and
I wanted to submit my information to you for your review. If you allow it
to be posted thank you and if not I understand and look forward to being an
active member in the future. Here is our generic email information for your
review.



Tank <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/> Trinkets is proud to introduce the
first line of holiday decorations for fish/reptile tanks.



Our products are handmade and painted in the USA and provide a new and
unique opportunity for you to once again make your fish/reptile tank the
conversation piece of your home or office.



Traditionally you have not been able to decorate your fish tanks for each
holiday and this will allow you to do so. We have a full line of holiday
themed products that will fit all sizes of fish/reptile tanks. Please visit
our website, www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/> , and fish
around.



Please feel free to contact us with any questions at our website by clicking
on the more info button or calling us at (818) 974-4454. Tanks a lot for
your consideration and have a swimmingly fine day.





Shane Hoggard



shane@...

www.tanktrinkets.com

(818) 974-4454 Mobile





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16477 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/2/2006
Subject: Re: Heater comments?
How much warmer are you going to keep the tank than the room? If you are
looking to keep the tank at 75^o F, then you only need to cope with a
maximum of 3^o difference which takes a lot less than if you want or need
the tank to be 80^o F which means a maximum 8^o difference.

It is a smart thing to consider at least two heaters. That way, if they are
sized right a failure of one heater does not mean you will be making
bouillabaisse or you give yourself a chance to replace a heater without the
temperature falling too far from the desired temperature.

\\Steve//

----- Original Message -----
From: "wantvws" <rml1963@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:33 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heater comments?


Hello....any recommendations on size/brand of heaters for a 210 gallon
saltwater fish only setup? The aquarium is going to be in a room that
is usually 72°-75° F year-round (heat and AC). I initially thought 2
300w heater....any particular brand to stay away from?
Thanks in advance!!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16478 From: Robbie Lawson Date: 2/2/2006
Subject: Re: Heater comments?
Steve Szabo wrote:

> How much warmer are you going to keep the tank than the room? If you are
> looking to keep the tank at 75^o F, then you only need to cope with a
> maximum of 3^o difference which takes a lot less than if you want or need
> the tank to be 80^o F which means a maximum 8^o difference.
>
> It is a smart thing to consider at least two heaters. That way, if
> they are
> sized right a failure of one heater does not mean you will be making
> bouillabaisse or you give yourself a chance to replace a heater
> without the
> temperature falling too far from the desired temperature.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "wantvws" <rml1963@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:33 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Heater comments?
>
>
> Hello....any recommendations on size/brand of heaters for a 210 gallon
> saltwater fish only setup? The aquarium is going to be in a room that
> is usually 72°-75° F year-round (heat and AC). I initially thought 2
> 300w heater....any particular brand to stay away from?
> Thanks in advance!!
> Robbie
>
>
> Thanks for all of the advice...I guess the tank will be kept around
> 78° (?) so I'm looking at a maximum change of 6°.....will 2 300w
> heaters be enough? Any particular brand I should keep away from?

Thanks so much !
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16479 From: harry perry Date: 2/3/2006
Subject: Cichlid fans.
Turn on your sound and enjoy. www.fishaholics.org/movies/lakefish_002.wmv

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16480 From: harry perry Date: 2/3/2006
Subject: Cichlid fans. The correct link.
www.fishaholics.org/movies/lakefis_0002.wmv.

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16481 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 2/3/2006
Subject: Re: Cichlid fans. The correct link.
Try this one instead. At least it worked for me

www.fishaholics.org/movies/lakefish_0002.wmv

Rob


At 02:18 PM 2/3/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>www.fishaholics.org/movies/lakefish_0002.wmv.
>
>Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
>---------------------------------
>Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16482 From: DIWA WINKU Date: 2/3/2006
Subject: Re: MUD system
For Indoor and outdoor.
it's very simple and easy, just put the MUD on the SUMP and layer with sand and plated with sea grass.
and you can decor ur sump like aquascaping in fresh water. I put seahorse,....so i have 2 tank 1 is main tank,...and 1 for aquascaping in line with sump.
and u can show ur sump also,...and beauty

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
I'v never heard of such a thing...for an indoor tank, anyway. Tell us
more?


> Anyone have experience in MUD filtration system in Marine Aquariium?

<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16483 From: Roy Difuntorum Date: 2/4/2006
Subject: Re: my pet shark
can anybody help me here? i have a black fresh water shark which i
don't know what species it belongs. i don't even know how it is
scientifically called. it's easily agitated everytime for some reason i
sure would like to know. i wanna know more about my pet. it was my
dad's. he left it after he passed away. the male pair died during an
accident while the tank is being cleaned. wish i know more about this
one. :) tnx

--roy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16484 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 2/4/2006
Subject: Jebo Heaters
Forgive the cross post but I figured this would get the most replies,
either on list or off, makes no difference to me.

I am looking for a new heater or two and found I can get a great deal on a
Jebo heater. I have found the company website and they manufacture/sell a
lot of aquarium equipment.

Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with them. I know lots of
people swear by Jagar, but for the price of one of those, I can get 3
Jebos, so even if they only last 1/3 as long, I am no further ahead or behind.

Thanks groupies and groupettes

Rob
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16485 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/4/2006
Subject: Re: my pet shark
Probably _Labeo chrysophekadion_. Will grow to more than 35" total length in
the wild, smaller in aquaria. Check out at
http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/profiles/503.htm or
http://www.aquariacentral.com/species/db.cgi?db=fresh&uid=default&ID=0538&vi
ew_records=1 (in case this link wraps, use this one
http://tinyurl.com/br6ut).

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Roy Difuntorum
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 3:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] re: my pet shark

can anybody help me here? i have a black fresh water shark which i
don't know what species it belongs. i don't even know how it is
scientifically called. it's easily agitated everytime for some reason i
sure would like to know. i wanna know more about my pet. it was my
dad's. he left it after he passed away. the male pair died during an
accident while the tank is being cleaned. wish i know more about this
one. :) tnx

--roy








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16486 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Color variations w/ lighting?
My fish are really brilliantly colored,but when I turn the light on they
pale after an hour or so. The orange ones turn whitish pink, the
firemouths bellies whiten or pink up (one of them pales completely).

I don't know what type of light is in there now, it came with the set
up.

Does this make a difference or is it rather the time of day? We mainly
turn the light on in the evening as there is tons of natural light near
the tank.
(However I just turned the light on now at 7:20 and they are all
brilliant. Usually by this time with the light on, they have paled.)

Thanks for any info.

Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16487 From: Jerry Young Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
What is the website? I want to get some info about that brand and their products. Thanks!

Rob Zanussi <rzanussi@...> wrote: Forgive the cross post but I figured this would get the most replies,
either on list or off, makes no difference to me.

I am looking for a new heater or two and found I can get a great deal on a
Jebo heater. I have found the company website and they manufacture/sell a
lot of aquarium equipment.

Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with them. I know lots of
people swear by Jagar, but for the price of one of those, I can get 3
Jebos, so even if they only last 1/3 as long, I am no further ahead or behind.

Thanks groupies and groupettes

Rob





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16488 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Here you go

http://www.jeboaquarium.com/


At 05:50 PM 2/5/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>What is the website? I want to get some info about that brand and their
products. Thanks!
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16489 From: Jerry Young Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
Thanks man

Rob Zanussi <rzanussi@...> wrote: Here you go

http://www.jeboaquarium.com/


At 05:50 PM 2/5/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>What is the website? I want to get some info about that brand and their
products. Thanks!
>
>





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16490 From: Jerry Young Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
I use to own a jebo external filter with power head. In my own opinion, they work just as well as other more expensive brands with just one problem. Being made in China, like many products that come from my mother country (I am a pure Chinese born and raised in the Philippines), it has an 'expiration date'. I noticed a decrease in the power in the flow of water less than a year after I start using and threw it in out a few months later because it stopped working. The petshop owners said it can't be fixed and told me to buy a new one.
My advise to you is this: If you want to economize(because China made products are really a LOT CHEAPER), maybe you should consider getting a spare heater in case it conks out on you in the middle of winter and you end up with a tank full of frozen fish.

Rob Zanussi <rzanussi@...> wrote:
Forgive the cross post but I figured this would get the most replies,
either on list or off, makes no difference to me.

I am looking for a new heater or two and found I can get a great deal on a
Jebo heater. I have found the company website and they manufacture/sell a
lot of aquarium equipment.

Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with them. I know lots of
people swear by Jagar, but for the price of one of those, I can get 3
Jebos, so even if they only last 1/3 as long, I am no further ahead or behind.

Thanks groupies and groupettes

Rob





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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---------------------------------





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16491 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Color variations w/ lighting?
It may be the light you are providing. The coloration of fish is for
camouflage, identification, and breeding. Your light may be sufficiently
bright to cause the fish to wash out (the paling). If you do not have
sufficient cover to help break up the light, this will happen. It may also
happen if there is not enough cover for the fish provided by rocks,
driftwood, plants, or other aquascaping techniques.

Your focus, in the original message, was on your lighting. However, you have
told us nothing about the rest of your set up. If you give us a bit more in
the way of information on your fish and aquascaping, it would be easier for
us to make suggestions.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 8:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Color variations w/ lighting?

My fish are really brilliantly colored,but when I turn the light on they
pale after an hour or so. The orange ones turn whitish pink, the
firemouths bellies whiten or pink up (one of them pales completely).

I don't know what type of light is in there now, it came with the set
up.

Does this make a difference or is it rather the time of day? We mainly
turn the light on in the evening as there is tons of natural light near
the tank.
(However I just turned the light on now at 7:20 and they are all
brilliant. Usually by this time with the light on, they have paled.)

Thanks for any info.

Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16492 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
i don't know if this helps but i have jebo (odyssea) pc lights on all my 4 saltwater reef tanks & 3 of their skimmers & they all work very well. not sure if the heaters are comparable, but i like the brand from my experiences with it.

Jerry Young <jerry_jla@...> wrote: I use to own a jebo external filter with power head. In my own opinion, they work just as well as other more expensive brands with just one problem. Being made in China, like many products that come from my mother country (I am a pure Chinese born and raised in the Philippines), it has an 'expiration date'. I noticed a decrease in the power in the flow of water less than a year after I start using and threw it in out a few months later because it stopped working. The petshop owners said it can't be fixed and told me to buy a new one.
My advise to you is this: If you want to economize(because China made products are really a LOT CHEAPER), maybe you should consider getting a spare heater in case it conks out on you in the middle of winter and you end up with a tank full of frozen fish.

Rob Zanussi <rzanussi@...> wrote:
Forgive the cross post but I figured this would get the most replies,
either on list or off, makes no difference to me.

I am looking for a new heater or two and found I can get a great deal on a
Jebo heater. I have found the company website and they manufacture/sell a
lot of aquarium equipment.

Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with them. I know lots of
people swear by Jagar, but for the price of one of those, I can get 3
Jebos, so even if they only last 1/3 as long, I am no further ahead or behind.

Thanks groupies and groupettes

Rob





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

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---------------------------------





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16493 From: Ivan White (Aqua-Hobbyist) Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
HI,

I was going to buy some odyssea products and wrote them twice about their products, they never answered me and there business practices are as far as I am concerned miserable at best. Now I would not buy anything from them.

Just my opinion of course,

Ivan
aqua-hobbyist@...
----- Original Message -----
From: Valeen Gonzalez
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Jebo Heaters


i don't know if this helps but i have jebo (odyssea) pc lights on all my 4 saltwater reef tanks & 3 of their skimmers & they all work very well. not sure if the heaters are comparable, but i like the brand from my experiences with it.

Jerry Young <jerry_jla@...> wrote: I use to own a jebo external filter with power head. In my own opinion, they work just as well as other more expensive brands with just one problem. Being made in China, like many products that come from my mother country (I am a pure Chinese born and raised in the Philippines), it has an 'expiration date'. I noticed a decrease in the power in the flow of water less than a year after I start using and threw it in out a few months later because it stopped working. The petshop owners said it can't be fixed and told me to buy a new one.
My advise to you is this: If you want to economize(because China made products are really a LOT CHEAPER), maybe you should consider getting a spare heater in case it conks out on you in the middle of winter and you end up with a tank full of frozen fish.

Rob Zanussi <rzanussi@...> wrote:
Forgive the cross post but I figured this would get the most replies,
either on list or off, makes no difference to me.

I am looking for a new heater or two and found I can get a great deal on a
Jebo heater. I have found the company website and they manufacture/sell a
lot of aquarium equipment.

Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with them. I know lots of
people swear by Jagar, but for the price of one of those, I can get 3
Jebos, so even if they only last 1/3 as long, I am no further ahead or behind.

Thanks groupies and groupettes

Rob





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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---------------------------------
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---------------------------------





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS


Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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---------------------------------





Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links









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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.2/251 - Release Date: 2/4/2006



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16494 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Color variations w/ lighting?
There isn't much if any aquascaping. Every time I tried that, the blood
parrots & firemouth tore it apart and everyone then became very
territorial & aggressive.
You can see a picture of the tank (if I didn't remove it) under the
blood parrots album. If it isn't there, I will post another tomorrow.
The light is direct on the water, there isn't a cover underneath it.
Looks like I might be getting one. I've been meaning to get plexi cut
as there are some small spaces that the current "covering" does not
reach. The fish can't get out of the small spaces (well never say
never, but not likely) but it does cause evaporation more quickly than I
would like.

~Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 8:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Color variations w/ lighting?


It may be the light you are providing. The coloration of fish is for
camouflage, identification, and breeding. Your light may be sufficiently
bright to cause the fish to wash out (the paling). If you do not have
sufficient cover to help break up the light, this will happen. It may
also happen if there is not enough cover for the fish provided by rocks,
driftwood, plants, or other aquascaping techniques.

Your focus, in the original message, was on your lighting. However, you
have told us nothing about the rest of your set up. If you give us a bit
more in the way of information on your fish and aquascaping, it would be
easier for us to make suggestions.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16495 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/5/2006
Subject: Re: Color variations w/ lighting?
I remember the tank. You'll need to get some driftwood and rockwork in there
to give them some territorial markings and cover. If this does not do the
job, they you will probably need to diffuse the light somehow. If you get
one of those plastic light covers for the ceiling where fluorescent lights
are installed, you may be able to cut it down to the size you need to fit
your light fixture. If you are lucky, you may be able to fit it right in the
fixture, but, most likely, you'll need to place it under the light fixture.
If the light lifts out of the hood, you are that much ahead of the game
since you would only need to cut it to fit the opening. If the light is not
removable, you'll need to cut it to fit under the hood, and be held in place
with the hood, silicone sealant (made for aquariums), or some other sort of
attachment.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 11:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Color variations w/ lighting?

There isn't much if any aquascaping. Every time I tried that, the blood
parrots & firemouth tore it apart and everyone then became very
territorial & aggressive.
You can see a picture of the tank (if I didn't remove it) under the
blood parrots album. If it isn't there, I will post another tomorrow.
The light is direct on the water, there isn't a cover underneath it.
Looks like I might be getting one. I've been meaning to get plexi cut
as there are some small spaces that the current "covering" does not
reach. The fish can't get out of the small spaces (well never say
never, but not likely) but it does cause evaporation more quickly than I
would like.

~Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 8:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Color variations w/ lighting?


It may be the light you are providing. The coloration of fish is for
camouflage, identification, and breeding. Your light may be sufficiently
bright to cause the fish to wash out (the paling). If you do not have
sufficient cover to help break up the light, this will happen. It may
also happen if there is not enough cover for the fish provided by rocks,
driftwood, plants, or other aquascaping techniques.

Your focus, in the original message, was on your lighting. However, you
have told us nothing about the rest of your set up. If you give us a bit
more in the way of information on your fish and aquascaping, it would be
easier for us to make suggestions.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16496 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 2/6/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
when it comes to heaters, buy the best. (you only have to lose a tank full
of synodontis petricola fry once to learn this, as i did)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valeen Gonzalez" <valeendgonzalez@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Jebo Heaters


i don't know if this helps but i have jebo (odyssea) pc lights on all my 4
saltwater reef tanks & 3 of their skimmers & they all work very well. not
sure if the heaters are comparable, but i like the brand from my experiences
with it.

Jerry Young <jerry_jla@...> wrote: I use to own a jebo external
filter with power head. In my own opinion, they work just as well as other
more expensive brands with just one problem. Being made in China, like many
products that come from my mother country (I am a pure Chinese born and
raised in the Philippines), it has an 'expiration date'. I noticed a
decrease in the power in the flow of water less than a year after I start
using and threw it in out a few months later because it stopped working. The
petshop owners said it can't be fixed and told me to buy a new one.
My advise to you is this: If you want to economize(because China made
products are really a LOT CHEAPER), maybe you should consider getting a
spare heater in case it conks out on you in the middle of winter and you end
up with a tank full of frozen fish.

Rob Zanussi <rzanussi@...> wrote:
Forgive the cross post but I figured this would get the most replies,
either on list or off, makes no difference to me.

I am looking for a new heater or two and found I can get a great deal on a
Jebo heater. I have found the company website and they manufacture/sell a
lot of aquarium equipment.

Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with them. I know lots of
people swear by Jagar, but for the price of one of those, I can get 3
Jebos, so even if they only last 1/3 as long, I am no further ahead or
behind.

Thanks groupies and groupettes

Rob





---------------------------------





---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16497 From: wantvws Date: 2/6/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin E Boyle" <kvnbyl@...> wrote:
>
> when it comes to heaters, buy the best. (you only have to lose a
tank full
> of synodontis petricola fry once to learn this, as i did)

Any particular brands that are the best? Is Marineland decent?
Thanks!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16498 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 2/6/2006
Subject: Re: Jebo Heaters
i would have to go with jaegers. i have a couple that are 10 yrs old and
still work
----- Original Message -----
From: "wantvws" <rml1963@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 5:57 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Jebo Heaters


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin E Boyle" <kvnbyl@...> wrote:
>
> when it comes to heaters, buy the best. (you only have to lose a
tank full
> of synodontis petricola fry once to learn this, as i did)

Any particular brands that are the best? Is Marineland decent?
Thanks!
Robbie





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16499 From: Aranel Date: 2/6/2006
Subject: lonely goldfish?
Hi everyone. It's been a looong time since I've asked any questions, and
I'm not sure how important this one is, but it's been nagging at me for
a while.

I have a 2 1/2 inch fantail calico goldfish living in a 29 gallon tall
unheated tank. He's the only goldfish, but there are six cory cats
sharing the tank with him. There is one 29 gallon filter, and two
fifteen gallon filters running on it. It's got small gravel in the
middle of the tank with sand around the edges for the cories to root
around in, lots of artificial plants, and a small air stone in one corner.

So, I've had this goldfish for about two years (I got him when was very
tiny.) and one thing that's always bothered me is that he seems, well,
lonely. Even though the water quality was always perfect and I feed him
many different types of food (a couple of different brands of flakes,
blood worms, tubifex worms, lettuce, cucumbers, zucchini, algae
wafflers, and sometimes peas...) he just sat around and seemed bored. I
thought about getting him a friend, but the only place to get fish in my
area is at Wal-Mart and they don't alway look great. In fact, when I got
him, he had to stay in the hospital tank for a couple of months to get
rid of a bad case of ick and fin rot.

So when I can't find any sign of disease, I moved some of my cory cats
in with him and he really took to them. They're pretty active all the
time, and now he is too, but he's still always at the bottom of the
tank. The only difference is that now he's moving around with them. All
of the other goldfish I've ever had stayed pretty much around in the
middle of the tank. Does he just like the bottom? I'm hesitant to get
another goldfish because I don't want to over crowd this tank, and I
have no room for any more big tanks. He's still pretty small, but I want
him to have loads of room to grow and flourish.

I guess what I'm really asking, should I just leave it alone? He does
seem to really love those cory cats, and it's pretty cute to see him and
the biggest one sitting head to head with the little ones all gathered
around. Also, I've never seen anyone keep cories with goldfish before,
will it be all right to keep them together? I've had them that way for
over a year, but I just want to make sure.

-Ara
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16500 From: tigerfizh� Date: 2/6/2006
Subject: BREEDING ZEBRA DANIOS :)
hi everyone!! :)

are you one of those who breeds zebra danios?

can you help me? whats the easiest and fastest way to prepare for breeding of zebra danios? :)

thanks so much for your interest and reply .

tigerfizh



---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16501 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/7/2006
Subject: Re: lonely goldfish?
Ara,

I'd not say that a goldfish gets lonely. I would say that they can get
bored, though. I'd also be concerned that he is resting at the bottom of the
tank most times. One thing that also concerns me, and may be part of the
problem is the amount of water flow you have going through your tank. It may
just be too much for the goldfish to handle, and his bottom resting is a
result of this. Remove the two 15 gallon filters and just use the 29 gallon
filter. You should be fine. If the fellow gets up and moving, you have
resolved the problem.

Another thing I might do is to move things around in the tank every so
often. You do not have to do it wholesale, maybe just a couple of your
plastic plants just to keep his curiosity up.

The diet you are feeding sounds good, just don't overdo it.

Goldfish are temperate water fish. Cores are tropical water fish. The two
should not be mixed. Generally the goldfish would prefer cooler
temperatures, the cories higher. Also, the two are subject to different
diseases and have different immunities. Something that might not faze your
goldfish may devastate your cory population and the same holds the other way
around. The two should not be mixed, but people do it all the time with
rarely a problem.

Your goldfish probably has about an other 31/2" to grow. When that happens,
the twenty-nine will be his and his alone. If you want to get him a buddy,
then you'd be looking at 55 gallon tank, at least, somewhere down the road
for the two of them.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Aranel
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 12:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] lonely goldfish?

Hi everyone. It's been a looong time since I've asked any questions, and
I'm not sure how important this one is, but it's been nagging at me for
a while.

I have a 2 1/2 inch fantail calico goldfish living in a 29 gallon tall
unheated tank. He's the only goldfish, but there are six cory cats
sharing the tank with him. There is one 29 gallon filter, and two
fifteen gallon filters running on it. It's got small gravel in the
middle of the tank with sand around the edges for the cories to root
around in, lots of artificial plants, and a small air stone in one corner.

So, I've had this goldfish for about two years (I got him when was very
tiny.) and one thing that's always bothered me is that he seems, well,
lonely. Even though the water quality was always perfect and I feed him
many different types of food (a couple of different brands of flakes,
blood worms, tubifex worms, lettuce, cucumbers, zucchini, algae
wafflers, and sometimes peas...) he just sat around and seemed bored. I
thought about getting him a friend, but the only place to get fish in my
area is at Wal-Mart and they don't alway look great. In fact, when I got
him, he had to stay in the hospital tank for a couple of months to get
rid of a bad case of ick and fin rot.

So when I can't find any sign of disease, I moved some of my cory cats
in with him and he really took to them. They're pretty active all the
time, and now he is too, but he's still always at the bottom of the
tank. The only difference is that now he's moving around with them. All
of the other goldfish I've ever had stayed pretty much around in the
middle of the tank. Does he just like the bottom? I'm hesitant to get
another goldfish because I don't want to over crowd this tank, and I
have no room for any more big tanks. He's still pretty small, but I want
him to have loads of room to grow and flourish.

I guess what I'm really asking, should I just leave it alone? He does
seem to really love those cory cats, and it's pretty cute to see him and
the biggest one sitting head to head with the little ones all gathered
around. Also, I've never seen anyone keep cories with goldfish before,
will it be all right to keep them together? I've had them that way for
over a year, but I just want to make sure.

-Ara
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16502 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/8/2006
Subject: ADA Aqua Soil - Amazonia
I had never really heard about this until now and what puzzles me is that I
am unable to find any good information regarding this substrate. Is it like
other soil based stuff (Latarite, Top Soil, Loam, tetra aquatic compost
etc.) That has to be topped with gravel or sand or is this the one that can
be mixed with ADA Power sand and used as a normal substrate?



Can any one point me to some links?



Thanks,

Nim





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16503 From: fish_guru2001 Date: 2/8/2006
Subject: my favorite fish forum
my favorite fish forum


hello aqua friends,

its me again, i was just wondering what you thought about this new pet
forum?
http://petworldforum.com

i am on messenger if you wan tot chat
fish guru
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16504 From: Joe Beaudry Date: 2/11/2006
Subject: Newbie
Howdy Folks!
I just wanted to take this opportunity to introduce myslef. My name is
Joe and I live in Bastrop, Texas which is near Austin. Anyone in this
group in my neck of the woods?
I have no fish for I am still in the research phase. I don't want to
kill my fish when I do get my setup so I am picking any and all sources
of information I can.
Thanks
Joe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16505 From: Sandy Date: 2/11/2006
Subject: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Hi,
I have a powder blue gourmi who has a place on his side he has been rubbing against. It doesn't look cottony or infected but the skin is scraped you can see that and maybe a little reddened it doesn't really look that bad. I would hate to lose him. Occasionally I have seen him rub it so could be a parasite.

What I don't know is there anything I can put in there without destroying my good bacteria? I've added a small amount of aquarium salt and the temp is 80. I just don't know about medications and have always felt it better not to use.

Thank you for any advice you might have, Sandy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16506 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/12/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie
Welcome to the group Joe. I am originally from Texas, Plano, but live in
Los Angeles now. You will love the group and learn a ton while having some
fun. Do you know what type of tank you want to set up?



Shane

www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joe Beaudry
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 3:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie



Howdy Folks!
I just wanted to take this opportunity to introduce myslef. My name is
Joe and I live in Bastrop, Texas which is near Austin. Anyone in this
group in my neck of the woods?
I have no fish for I am still in the research phase. I don't want to
kill my fish when I do get my setup so I am picking any and all sources
of information I can.
Thanks
Joe







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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South
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mania&w3=San+francisco+bay+area&w4=United+kingdom&w5=South+africa&c=5&s=102&
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16507 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/12/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Those fish are beautiful. Do you have any pictures of the area that we
could view? They may help some in determining what is going on with you
fish.



Shane

www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 10:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gourmi? spelling not sure



Hi,
I have a powder blue gourmi who has a place on his side he has been
rubbing against. It doesn't look cottony or infected but the skin is scraped
you can see that and maybe a little reddened it doesn't really look that
bad. I would hate to lose him. Occasionally I have seen him rub it so could
be a parasite.

What I don't know is there anything I can put in there without destroying
my good bacteria? I've added a small amount of aquarium salt and the temp is
80. I just don't know about medications and have always felt it better not
to use.

Thank you for any advice you might have, Sandy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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romania&w3=San+francisco+bay+area&w4=United+kingdom&w5=South+africa&c=5&s=10
2&.sig=H3b2Q3LLNK6sakdMEZccgA> kingdom

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16508 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/12/2006
Subject: Subject: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Shane
That is a good idea. I have a digital camera, haven't tried taking a picture
of a fish in a tank. Will try that. If I get one, do I sent it as an
attachment? Thanks for your message, Sandy



Subject: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure

Those fish are beautiful. Do you have any pictures of the area that we
could view? They may help some in determining what is going on with you
fish.



Shane

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16509 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/12/2006
Subject: Re: Subject: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Shane
You can send it as an attachment or put it into the group picture section.



Shane

www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 12:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Subject: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Shane



That is a good idea. I have a digital camera, haven't tried taking a picture
of a fish in a tank. Will try that. If I get one, do I sent it as an
attachment? Thanks for your message, Sandy



Subject: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure

Those fish are beautiful. Do you have any pictures of the area that we
could view? They may help some in determining what is going on with you
fish.



Shane

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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ist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+king
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iology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=S
outh+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=HPM_nDJbj1M7rAx3MGd2cg> kingdom

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16510 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/13/2006
Subject: Crooked Swimmer
I have a firemouth that is swimming crooked. He tilts to his right
almost constantly. This has been going on now for at least 4 days and
he is not straightening up at all. In fact I think it is worse. He
eats and swims fine so far. Anything I should watch out for or treat?
Everyone else in the tank is great.
Thanks,
Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16511 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/13/2006
Subject: Re: Crooked Swimmer
I have had this problem before and one of two things has happened in my
experience. One they turn it around and are fine and two well you do not
want to know that answer. I wish I had more advice for you.



Shane

www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 8:16 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Crooked Swimmer



I have a firemouth that is swimming crooked. He tilts to his right
almost constantly. This has been going on now for at least 4 days and
he is not straightening up at all. In fact I think it is worse. He
eats and swims fine so far. Anything I should watch out for or treat?
Everyone else in the tank is great.
Thanks,
Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16512 From: kristopher helsing Date: 2/13/2006
Subject: Re: Crooked Swimmer
id guess internal parasite..... check it out.

Tank Trinkets <shane@...> wrote: I have had this problem before and one of two things has happened in my
experience. One they turn it around and are fine and two well you do not
want to know that answer. I wish I had more advice for you.



Shane

www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 8:16 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Crooked Swimmer



I have a firemouth that is swimming crooked. He tilts to his right
almost constantly. This has been going on now for at least 4 days and
he is not straightening up at all. In fact I think it is worse. He
eats and swims fine so far. Anything I should watch out for or treat?
Everyone else in the tank is great.
Thanks,
Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16513 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/13/2006
Subject: Whoa! More fish swimming crooked
OK this sucks.
Now my two kissing gouramis are very much swimming on their side.
Almost completely flipped.
Please tell me what might be causing this. I fed an antiparisitc food
tonight. I'll keep them hungry tomorrow then feed it again tomorrow
night IF that will help. ANY experience/ideas welcomed! Please?
Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16514 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
I am so upset. When I wrote about the gourmi that was true about him. The
tank was fine everyone was eating and healthy at that time. The gourmi was
even starting to come up and take food from my fingers at the top of the
water.

I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water changes by putting the
water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and NovAqua+ water conditioner
I even called the company and they said to make sure there is plenty of
filter movement when adding. I do this and everything else. I even leave the
water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just water from our regular
line it is not water softener either. Our water here is supposed to be
decent.

Anyway, I make a water change every week or week and a half. Everything was
fine for a good couple months and then it happened again. I did all the
above as usual and the water smelled and seem fine. The fish too. Then I
looked no more than an hour later and the fish were acting up and their was
a bad odor in the water. So probably the bacteria bed was destroyed. They
were hanging at the top and by next day, fins were showing white cottony ick
on their fin and some their eyes are white. I've tried doing water changes,
add salt, up the temp it has been at 80 before this anyway. Some are
starting to look better but they are stressed and probably will not live
long.

And just this morning, of course I found the gourmi dead. I knew he would be
he was already stressed. The place on his side before this was just like a
scrape on his skin, not very large. Well of course after this happens he was
already stressed and couldn't make it. It made me sad he was getting to be a
pet.

If I can't figure out what I am doing wrong or what is happening, I don't
see what else to do but quit. This seems to happen every 2 or 3 months. I
get new fish in there and they are so pretty and healthy and then this
happens. I just can't keep doing this to the fish. BTW, it is a 10 gallon
tank with a bio wheel filter. It works really well the smell was right, no
eggy odor and until this whatever happens.

I also have only all live plants. They do very well and will suffer some but
usually come out of it as the water good bacteria builds back up.

Does anyone know anything I can do to make this stop. Hopefully I won't get
bombarded with being stupid about keeping a tank, I know I am somewhat. But
the one thing I can say is that I know for several months it does fine.
Using the same everything. And then bam, it does this again. The tank has
been going for a good year now.

Thank you in advance, Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16515 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Sandy,

Sorry to hear about your loss and its not really your fault there but you
have been advised incorrectly I think. Amquel+ IMO is not something very
useful for water changes as it works against the way bacteria are supposed
to work.

You have a biowheel filter that alone is capable of handling large bacterial
colonies.. its probably just the Amquel+ that's playing havoc with it.

Even if it was not Amquel, I would suggest the first thing to do is to
change the water conditioner you use. Try using Stress Coat or Seachem Prime
or something similar that does not bind ammonia and is more trusted then the
others.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: 14 February 2006 14:14
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure



I am so upset. When I wrote about the gourmi that was true about him. The
tank was fine everyone was eating and healthy at that time. The gourmi was
even starting to come up and take food from my fingers at the top of the
water.

I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water changes by putting the
water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and NovAqua+ water conditioner
I even called the company and they said to make sure there is plenty of
filter movement when adding. I do this and everything else. I even leave the
water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just water from our regular
line it is not water softener either. Our water here is supposed to be
decent.

Anyway, I make a water change every week or week and a half. Everything was
fine for a good couple months and then it happened again. I did all the
above as usual and the water smelled and seem fine. The fish too. Then I
looked no more than an hour later and the fish were acting up and their was
a bad odor in the water. So probably the bacteria bed was destroyed. They
were hanging at the top and by next day, fins were showing white cottony ick
on their fin and some their eyes are white. I've tried doing water changes,
add salt, up the temp it has been at 80 before this anyway. Some are
starting to look better but they are stressed and probably will not live
long.

And just this morning, of course I found the gourmi dead. I knew he would be
he was already stressed. The place on his side before this was just like a
scrape on his skin, not very large. Well of course after this happens he was
already stressed and couldn't make it. It made me sad he was getting to be a
pet.

If I can't figure out what I am doing wrong or what is happening, I don't
see what else to do but quit. This seems to happen every 2 or 3 months. I
get new fish in there and they are so pretty and healthy and then this
happens. I just can't keep doing this to the fish. BTW, it is a 10 gallon
tank with a bio wheel filter. It works really well the smell was right, no
eggy odor and until this whatever happens.

I also have only all live plants. They do very well and will suffer some but
usually come out of it as the water good bacteria builds back up.

Does anyone know anything I can do to make this stop. Hopefully I won't get
bombarded with being stupid about keeping a tank, I know I am somewhat. But
the one thing I can say is that I know for several months it does fine.
Using the same everything. And then bam, it does this again. The tank has
been going for a good year now.

Thank you in advance, Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16516 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Sandy, While I'm not saying definitely that this is your problem,
you might want to start by changing your de-chloramine. Recently,
Kordon re-formulated their Amquel (which is now called Amquel+) and
many people are having trouble with it. I'm not trying to knock
Kordon as they're a fine company which puts out great products, but
it seems you need to be more careful with Amquel+. While there are
general directions for its use, the amount of chloramines in your
water (which can vary from season to season) really dictates hoiw
much Amquel+ is safe to use, as its very easy to overdose this stuff,
as has apparently been happening with some hobbyists. I'd recommend
going to another product such as Ammo Lock. Best of luck, Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sandy Kay" <knightwriter101@...>
wrote:
>
> I am so upset. When I wrote about the gourmi that was true about
him. The
> tank was fine everyone was eating and healthy at that time. The
gourmi was
> even starting to come up and take food from my fingers at the top
of the
> water.
>
> I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water changes by
putting the
> water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and NovAqua+ water
conditioner
> I even called the company and they said to make sure there is
plenty of
> filter movement when adding. I do this and everything else. I even
leave the
> water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just water from our
regular
> line it is not water softener either. Our water here is supposed to
be
> decent.
>
> Anyway, I make a water change every week or week and a half.
Everything was
> fine for a good couple months and then it happened again. I did all
the
> above as usual and the water smelled and seem fine. The fish too.
Then I
> looked no more than an hour later and the fish were acting up and
their was
> a bad odor in the water. So probably the bacteria bed was
destroyed. They
> were hanging at the top and by next day, fins were showing white
cottony ick
> on their fin and some their eyes are white. I've tried doing water
changes,
> add salt, up the temp it has been at 80 before this anyway. Some are
> starting to look better but they are stressed and probably will not
live
> long.
>
> And just this morning, of course I found the gourmi dead. I knew he
would be
> he was already stressed. The place on his side before this was just
like a
> scrape on his skin, not very large. Well of course after this
happens he was
> already stressed and couldn't make it. It made me sad he was
getting to be a
> pet.
>
> If I can't figure out what I am doing wrong or what is happening, I
don't
> see what else to do but quit. This seems to happen every 2 or 3
months. I
> get new fish in there and they are so pretty and healthy and then
this
> happens. I just can't keep doing this to the fish. BTW, it is a 10
gallon
> tank with a bio wheel filter. It works really well the smell was
right, no
> eggy odor and until this whatever happens.
>
> I also have only all live plants. They do very well and will suffer
some but
> usually come out of it as the water good bacteria builds back up.
>
> Does anyone know anything I can do to make this stop. Hopefully I
won't get
> bombarded with being stupid about keeping a tank, I know I am
somewhat. But
> the one thing I can say is that I know for several months it does
fine.
> Using the same everything. And then bam, it does this again. The
tank has
> been going for a good year now.
>
> Thank you in advance, Sandy
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16517 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Sandy,

I'm with Nim on the water conditioner. Simple is better & amquel isn't
simple. It interferes with what would happen naturally.

Also, your tank is a 10 gallon. What other fish are in there?
I'm sorry about your gourami.

Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 8:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure


I am so upset. When I wrote about the gourmi that was true about him.
The tank was fine everyone was eating and healthy at that time. The
gourmi was even starting to come up and take food from my fingers at the
top of the water.



I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water changes by putting
the water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and NovAqua+ water
conditioner I even called the company and they said to make sure there
is plenty of filter movement when adding. I do this and everything else.
I even leave the water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just
water from our regular line it is not water softener either. Our water
here is supposed to be decent.



Anyway, I make a water change every week or week and a half. Everything
was fine for a good couple months and then it happened again. I did all
the above as usual and the water smelled and seem fine. The fish too.
Then I looked no more than an hour later and the fish were acting up and
their was a bad odor in the water. So probably the bacteria bed was
destroyed. They were hanging at the top and by next day, fins were
showing white cottony ick on their fin and some their eyes are white.
I've tried doing water changes, add salt, up the temp it has been at 80
before this anyway. Some are starting to look better but they are
stressed and probably will not live long.



And just this morning, of course I found the gourmi dead. I knew he
would be he was already stressed. The place on his side before this was
just like a scrape on his skin, not very large. Well of course after
this happens he was already stressed and couldn't make it. It made me
sad he was getting to be a pet.



If I can't figure out what I am doing wrong or what is happening, I
don't see what else to do but quit. This seems to happen every 2 or 3
months. I get new fish in there and they are so pretty and healthy and
then this happens. I just can't keep doing this to the fish. BTW, it is
a 10 gallon tank with a bio wheel filter. It works really well the smell
was right, no eggy odor and until this whatever happens.



I also have only all live plants. They do very well and will suffer some
but usually come out of it as the water good bacteria builds back up.



Does anyone know anything I can do to make this stop. Hopefully I won't
get bombarded with being stupid about keeping a tank, I know I am
somewhat. But the one thing I can say is that I know for several months
it does fine. Using the same everything. And then bam, it does this
again. The tank has been going for a good year now.



Thank you in advance, Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16518 From: harry perry Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner.
I've been using Stress Coat and Stress Zyne for years and have never had a problem. Sorry to hear about your fish.

Harry

Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@...> wrote: Sandy,

Sorry to hear about your loss and its not really your fault there but you
have been advised incorrectly I think. Amquel+ IMO is not something very
useful for water changes as it works against the way bacteria are supposed
to work.

You have a biowheel filter that alone is capable of handling large bacterial
colonies.. its probably just the Amquel+ that's playing havoc with it.

Even if it was not Amquel, I would suggest the first thing to do is to
change the water conditioner you use. Try using Stress Coat or Seachem Prime
or something similar that does not bind ammonia and is more trusted then the
others.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: 14 February 2006 14:14
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure



I am so upset. When I wrote about the gourmi that was true about him. The
tank was fine everyone was eating and healthy at that time. The gourmi was
even starting to come up and take food from my fingers at the top of the
water.

I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water changes by putting the
water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and NovAqua+ water conditioner
I even called the company and they said to make sure there is plenty of
filter movement when adding. I do this and everything else. I even leave the
water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just water from our regular
line it is not water softener either. Our water here is supposed to be
decent.

Anyway, I make a water change every week or week and a half. Everything was
fine for a good couple months and then it happened again. I did all the
above as usual and the water smelled and seem fine. The fish too. Then I
looked no more than an hour later and the fish were acting up and their was
a bad odor in the water. So probably the bacteria bed was destroyed. They
were hanging at the top and by next day, fins were showing white cottony ick
on their fin and some their eyes are white. I've tried doing water changes,
add salt, up the temp it has been at 80 before this anyway. Some are
starting to look better but they are stressed and probably will not live
long.

And just this morning, of course I found the gourmi dead. I knew he would be
he was already stressed. The place on his side before this was just like a
scrape on his skin, not very large. Well of course after this happens he was
already stressed and couldn't make it. It made me sad he was getting to be a
pet.

If I can't figure out what I am doing wrong or what is happening, I don't
see what else to do but quit. This seems to happen every 2 or 3 months. I
get new fish in there and they are so pretty and healthy and then this
happens. I just can't keep doing this to the fish. BTW, it is a 10 gallon
tank with a bio wheel filter. It works really well the smell was right, no
eggy odor and until this whatever happens.

I also have only all live plants. They do very well and will suffer some but
usually come out of it as the water good bacteria builds back up.

Does anyone know anything I can do to make this stop. Hopefully I won't get
bombarded with being stupid about keeping a tank, I know I am somewhat. But
the one thing I can say is that I know for several months it does fine.
Using the same everything. And then bam, it does this again. The tank has
been going for a good year now.

Thank you in advance, Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16519 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner.
i've used prime and novaqua+ in the past with no
problems. right now i'm using stress coat with no
problems.

--- harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:

> I've been using Stress Coat and Stress Zyne for
> years and have never had a problem. Sorry to hear
> about your fish.
>
> Harry
>
> Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@...> wrote:
> Sandy,
>
> Sorry to hear about your loss and its not really
> your fault there but you
> have been advised incorrectly I think. Amquel+ IMO
> is not something very
> useful for water changes as it works against the
> way bacteria are supposed
> to work.
>
> You have a biowheel filter that alone is capable of
> handling large bacterial
> colonies.. its probably just the Amquel+ that's
> playing havoc with it.
>
> Even if it was not Amquel, I would suggest the
> first thing to do is to
> change the water conditioner you use. Try using
> Stress Coat or Seachem Prime
> or something similar that does not bind ammonia and
> is more trusted then the
> others.
>
> Nim
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Sandy Kay
> Sent: 14 February 2006 14:14
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not
> sure
>
>
>
> I am so upset. When I wrote about the gourmi that
> was true about him. The
> tank was fine everyone was eating and healthy at
> that time. The gourmi was
> even starting to come up and take food from my
> fingers at the top of the
> water.
>
> I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water
> changes by putting the
> water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and
> NovAqua+ water conditioner
> I even called the company and they said to make
> sure there is plenty of
> filter movement when adding. I do this and
> everything else. I even leave the
> water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just
> water from our regular
> line it is not water softener either. Our water
> here is supposed to be
> decent.
>
> Anyway, I make a water change every week or week
> and a half. Everything was
> fine for a good couple months and then it happened
> again. I did all the
> above as usual and the water smelled and seem fine.
> The fish too. Then I
> looked no more than an hour later and the fish were
> acting up and their was
> a bad odor in the water. So probably the bacteria
> bed was destroyed. They
> were hanging at the top and by next day, fins were
> showing white cottony ick
> on their fin and some their eyes are white. I've
> tried doing water changes,
> add salt, up the temp it has been at 80 before this
> anyway. Some are
> starting to look better but they are stressed and
> probably will not live
> long.
>
> And just this morning, of course I found the gourmi
> dead. I knew he would be
> he was already stressed. The place on his side
> before this was just like a
> scrape on his skin, not very large. Well of course
> after this happens he was
> already stressed and couldn't make it. It made me
> sad he was getting to be a
> pet.
>
> If I can't figure out what I am doing wrong or what
> is happening, I don't
> see what else to do but quit. This seems to happen
> every 2 or 3 months. I
> get new fish in there and they are so pretty and
> healthy and then this
> happens. I just can't keep doing this to the fish.
> BTW, it is a 10 gallon
> tank with a bio wheel filter. It works really well
> the smell was right, no
> eggy odor and until this whatever happens.
>
> I also have only all live plants. They do very well
> and will suffer some but
> usually come out of it as the water good bacteria
> builds back up.
>
> Does anyone know anything I can do to make this
> stop. Hopefully I won't get
> bombarded with being stupid about keeping a tank, I
> know I am somewhat. But
> the one thing I can say is that I know for several
> months it does fine.
> Using the same everything. And then bam, it does
> this again. The tank has
> been going for a good year now.
>
> Thank you in advance, Sandy
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
> when replying, thanks.
> 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:>
> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. ,
> .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
>
>
>
>
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>
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Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16520 From: MIke Schornak Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Whoa! More fish swimming crooked
One of my goldfish was having the same problem that you describe and I fed it a blood worm and the next day it was fine. I hope that helps a little.

Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16521 From: dragonman_999 Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Beginning
I am not a big time pro on fish or aquatic animals, or really even
a "big hobbiest" although I someday hope to be. I need advice on
starting an aquarium, preferrably 90 gallons to 150 gallons. I do have
some goldfish and newts, as well as a turtle, 4 snakes, 2 dogs, and a
horse. I would really appreciate any advice on fish, aquariums, or
whatever.

Thanks
Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16522 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
Nim,

What Amquel does is not remove the ammonia, as it appears you think, but it
makes the ammonia non-toxic to fish, yet leaves it available for the
bacteria to utilize. I'd trust Amquel over the others you mention, and any
other products meant to neutralize ammonia.

I haven't really been following this thread, but it may be that there is a
problem with the water, but until Sandy can provide us with measurements of
his tap water pre-water conditioners, we can only speculate. One thing I can
say right off is that if Amquel is being used, there is no need to use
Novaqua as well. Once we know what the water is to start, then we would need
to know what the water is like in the tank. Sandy seems to be using sense of
smell for a measuring stick, and if that is the standard, I'd probably not
want to drink any water around that house. Water can contain a lot of stuff
that does not have an odor, and some of those things could drop you in far
less time than the fish took to succumb to the problem, if it was a water
quality problem.

If we can point a finger to a water parameter, we can resolve the issue. If
all parameters are within reasonable limits, then we can start looking for
another causative factor.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 9:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure

Sandy,

Sorry to hear about your loss and its not really your fault there but you
have been advised incorrectly I think. Amquel+ IMO is not something very
useful for water changes as it works against the way bacteria are supposed
to work.

You have a biowheel filter that alone is capable of handling large bacterial
colonies.. its probably just the Amquel+ that's playing havoc with it.

Even if it was not Amquel, I would suggest the first thing to do is to
change the water conditioner you use. Try using Stress Coat or Seachem Prime
or something similar that does not bind ammonia and is more trusted then the
others.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: 14 February 2006 14:14
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure



I am so upset. When I wrote about the gourmi that was true about him. The
tank was fine everyone was eating and healthy at that time. The gourmi was
even starting to come up and take food from my fingers at the top of the
water.

I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water changes by putting the
water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and NovAqua+ water conditioner
I even called the company and they said to make sure there is plenty of
filter movement when adding. I do this and everything else. I even leave the
water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just water from our regular
line it is not water softener either. Our water here is supposed to be
decent.

Anyway, I make a water change every week or week and a half. Everything was
fine for a good couple months and then it happened again. I did all the
above as usual and the water smelled and seem fine. The fish too. Then I
looked no more than an hour later and the fish were acting up and their was
a bad odor in the water. So probably the bacteria bed was destroyed. They
were hanging at the top and by next day, fins were showing white cottony ick
on their fin and some their eyes are white. I've tried doing water changes,
add salt, up the temp it has been at 80 before this anyway. Some are
starting to look better but they are stressed and probably will not live
long.

And just this morning, of course I found the gourmi dead. I knew he would be
he was already stressed. The place on his side before this was just like a
scrape on his skin, not very large. Well of course after this happens he was
already stressed and couldn't make it. It made me sad he was getting to be a
pet.

If I can't figure out what I am doing wrong or what is happening, I don't
see what else to do but quit. This seems to happen every 2 or 3 months. I
get new fish in there and they are so pretty and healthy and then this
happens. I just can't keep doing this to the fish. BTW, it is a 10 gallon
tank with a bio wheel filter. It works really well the smell was right, no
eggy odor and until this whatever happens.

I also have only all live plants. They do very well and will suffer some but
usually come out of it as the water good bacteria builds back up.

Does anyone know anything I can do to make this stop. Hopefully I won't get
bombarded with being stupid about keeping a tank, I know I am somewhat. But
the one thing I can say is that I know for several months it does fine.
Using the same everything. And then bam, it does this again. The tank has
been going for a good year now.

Thank you in advance, Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16523 From: Richard Troon Date: 2/14/2006
Subject: Fluval vs Sump
Hi:

I'm about to buy a new 125 gallon tank. I'm debating
about whether to install a sump system or use a Fluval
filter system. If I choose the latter, I'm debating
between two of the "old style" Fluvals (such as the
304) or the new, just-on-the-market system (I think
it's something like an x505---it comes in a yellow
box!). Any info on pros/cons of these options and
opinions on which to choose?

RJ

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16524 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
You are using both? Is there a reason you need to use both? I am not
saying that they are a cause of any harm in your tank but it seems like overkill
to use both at the same time. Personally the Amquel + has a smell that makes
me ill, but I do use regular Amquel. I also use the NovAqua + w/water
conditioner which I really like. BUt I only use one product at a time on water
changes. I just did a 40 percent water chang in a 55 gallon and added the
NovAqua plus right before I added the water, as I do most of the time. So far no
sick fish.

In a message dated 2/14/2006 6:15:21 AM Pacific Standard Time,
knightwriter101@... writes:


I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water changes by putting the
water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and NovAqua+ water conditioner
I even called the company and they said to make sure there is plenty of
filter movement when adding. I do this and everything else. I even leave the
water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just water from our regular
line it is not water softener either. Our water here is supposed to be
decent.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16525 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Pale Firemouth, Dead Eheim
Good grief. Now my large firemouth is almost white. He swims and eats
fine, he's just VERY pale. So is the smaller one.

My Eheim went off two days ago. But I still have bio wheel, penguin,
and I assume that will do that job. The bio wheel is for a maximum of
75 gallons and that is what I have. Could the pale be from a little
stress due to the eheim going out? I know this is less filtration but
it should be adequate.
I can't get the eheim fixed until March. Should I buy another filter
for the back in the meantime?

Ugh. =) Please let me know. I don't want to risk my fishies.

Thanks,
Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16526 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy
Thank you for so many replies. I kept my original message with this reply so
it wouldn't get confusing. I hope it is not too long. The great thing is
several people online told me to use these two products, Amquel, but
obviously something is wrong. I love the fish tank and want to keep it
going.

Am I understanding right to use stress coat and stress zyme and that is all
and if I am doing everything right the tank should run right. I don't need
to use anything to remove ammonia from the tap water before adding to tank.
What about chloramines? Thank you all again, Sandy


Subject: RE: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure

Sandy,

Sorry to hear about your loss and its not really your fault there but you
have been advised incorrectly I think. Amquel+ IMO is not something very
useful for water changes as it works against the way bacteria are supposed
to work.

You have a biowheel filter that alone is capable of handling large bacterial
colonies.. its probably just the Amquel+ that's playing havoc with it.

Even if it was not Amquel, I would suggest the first thing to do is to
change the water conditioner you use. Try using Stress Coat or Seachem Prime
or something similar that does not bind ammonia and is more trusted then the
others.

Nim

_____





I am so upset. When I wrote about the gourmi that was true about him. The
tank was fine everyone was eating and healthy at that time. The gourmi was
even starting to come up and take food from my fingers at the top of the
water.

I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water changes by putting the
water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and NovAqua+ water conditioner
I even called the company and they said to make sure there is plenty of
filter movement when adding. I do this and everything else. I even leave the
water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just water from our regular
line it is not water softener either. Our water here is supposed to be
decent.

Anyway, I make a water change every week or week and a half. Everything was
fine for a good couple months and then it happened again. I did all the
above as usual and the water smelled and seem fine. The fish too. Then I
looked no more than an hour later and the fish were acting up and their was
a bad odor in the water. So probably the bacteria bed was destroyed. They
were hanging at the top and by next day, fins were showing white cottony ick
on their fin and some their eyes are white. I've tried doing water changes,
add salt, up the temp it has been at 80 before this anyway. Some are
starting to look better but they are stressed and probably will not live
long.

And just this morning, of course I found the gourmi dead. I knew he would be
he was already stressed. The place on his side before this was just like a
scrape on his skin, not very large. Well of course after this happens he was
already stressed and couldn't make it. It made me sad he was getting to be a
pet.

If I can't figure out what I am doing wrong or what is happening, I don't
see what else to do but quit. This seems to happen every 2 or 3 months. I
get new fish in there and they are so pretty and healthy and then this
happens. I just can't keep doing this to the fish. BTW, it is a 10 gallon
tank with a bio wheel filter. It works really well the smell was right, no
eggy odor and until this whatever happens.

I also have only all live plants. They do very well and will suffer some but
usually come out of it as the water good bacteria builds back up.

Does anyone know anything I can do to make this stop. Hopefully I won't get
bombarded with being stupid about keeping a tank, I know I am somewhat. But
the one thing I can say is that I know for several months it does fine.
Using the same everything. And then bam, it does this again. The tank has
been going for a good year now.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16527 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy
Sandy,



Stresscoat will detoxify Chloramines as well but this is of concern only if
your water supplier treats water with chloramines. Find out from them.



Bacteria develop in the tank that can handle ammonia better then any ammonia
removing or detoxifying product.



I would use only 1 chemical in the tank and that is a water conditioner like
Stresscoat or Seachem Prime or Tetra Aqua safe etc. that does not claim to
detoxify or remove ammonia. DO not use multiple products as they may in
certain occasions act against each other. what ever you use, use only one. I
vote Seachem Prime as its much more economical to use and also treats for
chloramines. stresscoat is brilliant but in the long run works out to be a
bit more expensive.. stresszyme is an enzyme that helps create a friendly
environment for the beneficial bacteria and also aids in disintegrating the
waste for bacteria to consume (in basic non technical words).



Use stresszyme for a couple of months from now if you change your water
conditioner as it will help settle the tan quicker.



Nim













_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: 15 February 2006 13:40
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy



Thank you for so many replies. I kept my original message with this reply so
it wouldn't get confusing. I hope it is not too long. The great thing is
several people online told me to use these two products, Amquel, but
obviously something is wrong. I love the fish tank and want to keep it
going.

Am I understanding right to use stress coat and stress zyme and that is all
and if I am doing everything right the tank should run right. I don't need
to use anything to remove ammonia from the tap water before adding to tank.
What about chloramines? Thank you all again, Sandy






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16528 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure
I agree Steve that Amquel etc. do detoxify Ammonia rather then remove it but
this detoxified ammonia (that is converted into Ammonium salts) can revert
back to ammonia in case of severe PH swings. I am myself not sure that I
will rely on chemicals to bind ammonia into non toxic ammonium. Bacteria may
use it up eventually but I think bacteria in reality uses up Basic ammonical
nitrogen and not the ionic form. I may be wrong on this but if this is so,
then we are just gaining time before a disaster that converts the already
converted ammonium ions back to ammonia to occur.



What happened to Sandy was that his/her (unsure) tank suddenly started to
give bad smell just a couple of hours after a water change. The only thing I
could think of (other then an outside chemical intoxicating the water) was
that for some reason there was too much ammonia or there were a lot of
anaerobic processes in the sand (which is also very likely .. probably more
likely then ammonia) were released and that let out various gasses that the
fish should have come across like Hydrogen sulphide (H2S) etc.



Question is what could be blamed here? It was not a very old tank that the
gravel could have developed such anaerobic processes such that could poison
the fish but then again it could very well have.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: 15 February 2006 00:47
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure



Nim,

What Amquel does is not remove the ammonia, as it appears you think, but it
makes the ammonia non-toxic to fish, yet leaves it available for the
bacteria to utilize. I'd trust Amquel over the others you mention, and any
other products meant to neutralize ammonia.

I haven't really been following this thread, but it may be that there is a
problem with the water, but until Sandy can provide us with measurements of
his tap water pre-water conditioners, we can only speculate. One thing I can
say right off is that if Amquel is being used, there is no need to use
Novaqua as well. Once we know what the water is to start, then we would need
to know what the water is like in the tank. Sandy seems to be using sense of
smell for a measuring stick, and if that is the standard, I'd probably not
want to drink any water around that house. Water can contain a lot of stuff
that does not have an odor, and some of those things could drop you in far
less time than the fish took to succumb to the problem, if it was a water
quality problem.

If we can point a finger to a water parameter, we can resolve the issue. If
all parameters are within reasonable limits, then we can start looking for
another causative factor.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 9:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure

Sandy,

Sorry to hear about your loss and its not really your fault there but you
have been advised incorrectly I think. Amquel+ IMO is not something very
useful for water changes as it works against the way bacteria are supposed
to work.

You have a biowheel filter that alone is capable of handling large bacterial
colonies.. its probably just the Amquel+ that's playing havoc with it.

Even if it was not Amquel, I would suggest the first thing to do is to
change the water conditioner you use. Try using Stress Coat or Seachem Prime
or something similar that does not bind ammonia and is more trusted then the
others.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: 14 February 2006 14:14
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure



I am so upset. When I wrote about the gourmi that was true about him. The
tank was fine everyone was eating and healthy at that time. The gourmi was
even starting to come up and take food from my fingers at the top of the
water.

I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water changes by putting the
water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and NovAqua+ water conditioner
I even called the company and they said to make sure there is plenty of
filter movement when adding. I do this and everything else. I even leave the
water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just water from our regular
line it is not water softener either. Our water here is supposed to be
decent.

Anyway, I make a water change every week or week and a half. Everything was
fine for a good couple months and then it happened again. I did all the
above as usual and the water smelled and seem fine. The fish too. Then I
looked no more than an hour later and the fish were acting up and their was
a bad odor in the water. So probably the bacteria bed was destroyed. They
were hanging at the top and by next day, fins were showing white cottony ick
on their fin and some their eyes are white. I've tried doing water changes,
add salt, up the temp it has been at 80 before this anyway. Some are
starting to look better but they are stressed and probably will not live
long.

And just this morning, of course I found the gourmi dead. I knew he would be
he was already stressed. The place on his side before this was just like a
scrape on his skin, not very large. Well of course after this happens he was
already stressed and couldn't make it. It made me sad he was getting to be a
pet.

If I can't figure out what I am doing wrong or what is happening, I don't
see what else to do but quit. This seems to happen every 2 or 3 months. I
get new fish in there and they are so pretty and healthy and then this
happens. I just can't keep doing this to the fish. BTW, it is a 10 gallon
tank with a bio wheel filter. It works really well the smell was right, no
eggy odor and until this whatever happens.

I also have only all live plants. They do very well and will suffer some but
usually come out of it as the water good bacteria builds back up.

Does anyone know anything I can do to make this stop. Hopefully I won't get
bombarded with being stupid about keeping a tank, I know I am somewhat. But
the one thing I can say is that I know for several months it does fine.
Using the same everything. And then bam, it does this again. The tank has
been going for a good year now.

Thank you in advance, Sandy



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16529 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy
Sandy,

Another thing that occurred to me was that if the water smelt very bad
within a couple of hours.. it could indicate a lot of mulm or gasses
released by the gravel?? Could this have happened?

When you do water changes, do you vacuum the gravel as well?

Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: 15 February 2006 14:34
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy



Sandy,



Stresscoat will detoxify Chloramines as well but this is of concern only if
your water supplier treats water with chloramines. Find out from them.



Bacteria develop in the tank that can handle ammonia better then any ammonia
removing or detoxifying product.



I would use only 1 chemical in the tank and that is a water conditioner like
Stresscoat or Seachem Prime or Tetra Aqua safe etc. that does not claim to
detoxify or remove ammonia. DO not use multiple products as they may in
certain occasions act against each other. what ever you use, use only one. I
vote Seachem Prime as its much more economical to use and also treats for
chloramines. stresscoat is brilliant but in the long run works out to be a
bit more expensive.. stresszyme is an enzyme that helps create a friendly
environment for the beneficial bacteria and also aids in disintegrating the
waste for bacteria to consume (in basic non technical words).



Use stresszyme for a couple of months from now if you change your water
conditioner as it will help settle the tan quicker.



Nim













_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: 15 February 2006 13:40
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy



Thank you for so many replies. I kept my original message with this reply so
it wouldn't get confusing. I hope it is not too long. The great thing is
several people online told me to use these two products, Amquel, but
obviously something is wrong. I love the fish tank and want to keep it
going.

Am I understanding right to use stress coat and stress zyme and that is all
and if I am doing everything right the tank should run right. I don't need
to use anything to remove ammonia from the tap water before adding to tank.
What about chloramines? Thank you all again, Sandy






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16530 From: grimwulff Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner.
Sandy how often are you feeding your fish?
any signs of red streaks running through fins(bright blood vessels)?
if overfeeding this could cause the ammonia levels to rise very high at a
certain point this causes the pH to drop which inturn can cause the ammonia
to be temp. neutralized until a water change raises the pH rereleasing the
ammonia. this could also be the cause of your odors (sulfur dioxide).
fish are mostly opportunity feeders, meaning they will eat as often as
there is food available, this being much more than they need to survive and
thrive. if feeding flake food (average community fish) I would recommend
1-2 small flakes per quarter size fish every other day, flake food swells to
3 times its original size when it hits the fishes stomach (try and imagine
the size of your fishes stomach). overeaten food passes through the fish
mostly undigested and turns almost directly to ammonia.

Companions of Grimwulff
Gary Todd "Rufus" Barr - Owner
730 CR315
Rockdale, TX 76567
512-446-7931
www.grimwulff.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16531 From: DIWA WINKU Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Pale Firemouth, Dead Eheim
use biological bakteria, for water treatmen.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: Good grief. Now my large firemouth is almost white. He swims and eats
fine, he's just VERY pale. So is the smaller one.

My Eheim went off two days ago. But I still have bio wheel, penguin,
and I assume that will do that job. The bio wheel is for a maximum of
75 gallons and that is what I have. Could the pale be from a little
stress due to the eheim going out? I know this is less filtration but
it should be adequate.
I can't get the eheim fixed until March. Should I buy another filter
for the back in the meantime?

Ugh. =) Please let me know. I don't want to risk my fishies.

Thanks,
Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16532 From: dragonman_999 Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: goldfish stress
I just moved my goldfish to a ten gallon aquarium to get them away
from the comets (I have two goldfish which were in an aquarium with 5
comets, and the goldfish are a decent size for a ten gallon) to remove
stress but the are showing signs of more stress. If I understand right
the goldfish get red lines in their tails if they're stress and one of
the two has those. What can I do to reduce it? Unfortunatly I have to
keep them in a high traffic area because I have no where else to put
them. I am totally stumped on this one.

Thanks
Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16533 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: goldfish stress
Red lines in their tails is more likely ammonia poisoning. Was the new tank
cycled? Typically, goldfish require a minimum of 10 gallons apiece and 20
gallons minimum for just one. Have you checked your water for ammonia, nitrites
and nitrates?

I have found my goldfish actually love to be somewhere busy -- they're
constantly hamming it up and begging from anyone who'll listen.

Vicky


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16534 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy
Sandy,

Amquel will neutralize both ammonia and chlorine. It can be used when
chloramines are present as it breaks the bond between the chlorine and
ammonia, then neutralizes both. If one looks at the data sheets for both
products in the Kordon section of the Novalek site, they are a bit
misleading. The fellow who invented both, John Farrell Kuhns (JFK), has
explained to me how they both work, though the details are a bit fuzzy in my
memory now. They can be used in conjunction with each other, if needed, as
Novaqua will also help the fish produce a healthier slime coat, useful for
new additions to your collection. I do not know anything of the Plus
versions of these products, and have not communicated with JFK about them.

Still, we know very little of your tank prior to and during the episode you
describe. You have not posted anything about the water parameters that I
have seen, which could be crucial elements in determining what happened. You
mentioned an odor to the water when things started heading south in the
tank, but do not describe the odor, which could be another big clue. You
mentioned live plants, and the gourami in a 10 gallon tank. You mention
other fish, but nothing about them. To me, the water temperature seems a bit
high for normal fish keeping, but there may be a reason you have for it. The
"cottony ick" you describe on their fins and maybe the eyes is not ich. It
is a fungus and was able to get a foothold once the fish became stressed. It
may well have been on the fish prior to the disaster, and given the right
combination it can grow quite rapidly.

At the very least, we should know the fish that were in your aquarium, and
their sizes, the pH, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite reading of the water,
before and during the episode, and exactly what was done prior to the
episode. The odor you smelled is also important as is the water temperature,
which you have given to us, along with the tank size. Without this
information, there will be a lot of conjecture, and the answers arrived at
may not fit your situation. You need to help us a bit before we can help
you.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 8:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure ~ Sandy

Thank you for so many replies. I kept my original message with this reply so
it wouldn't get confusing. I hope it is not too long. The great thing is
several people online told me to use these two products, Amquel, but
obviously something is wrong. I love the fish tank and want to keep it
going. Am I understanding right to use stress coat and stress zyme and that
is all
and if I am doing everything right the tank should run right. I don't need
to use anything to remove ammonia from the tap water before adding to tank.
What about chloramines? Thank you all again, Sandy Subject: RE: RE:
Gourmi? spelling not sure Sandy, Sorry to hear about your loss and its
not really your fault there but you have been advised incorrectly I think.
Amquel+ IMO is not something very useful for water changes as it works
against the way bacteria are supposed to work. You have a biowheel filter
that alone is capable of handling large bacterial colonies.. its probably
just the Amquel+ that's playing havoc with it. Even if it was not Amquel,
I would suggest the first thing to do is to change the water conditioner you
use. Try using Stress Coat or Seachem Prime or something similar that does
not bind ammonia and is more trusted then the others. Nim _____
I am so upset. When I wrote about the gourmi that was true about him. The
tank was fine everyone was eating and healthy at that time. The gourmi was
even starting to come up and take food from my fingers at the top of the
water. I don't know why this happens to me. I do my water changes by
putting the water in two 1 gallon jugs and adding AmQuel+ and NovAqua+ water
conditioner I even called the company and they said to make sure there is
plenty of filter movement when adding. I do this and everything else. I even
leave the water out overnight. It is not bottled water, just water from our
regular line it is not water softener either. Our water here is supposed to
be decent. Anyway, I make a water change every week or week and a half.
Everything was fine for a good couple months and then it happened again. I
did all the above as usual and the water smelled and seem fine. The fish
too. Then I looked no more than an hour later and the fish were acting up
and their was a bad odor in the water. So probably the bacteria bed was
destroyed. They were hanging at the top and by next day, fins were showing
white cottony ick on their fin and some their eyes are white. I've tried
doing water changes, add salt, up the temp it has been at 80 before this
anyway. Some are starting to look better but they are stressed and probably
will not live long. And just this morning, of course I found the gourmi
dead. I knew he would be he was already stressed. The place on his side
before this was just like a scrape on his skin, not very large. Well of
course after this happens he was already stressed and couldn't make it. It
made me sad he was getting to be a pet. If I can't figure out what I am
doing wrong or what is happening, I don't see what else to do but quit. This
seems to happen every 2 or 3 months. I get new fish in there and they are so
pretty and healthy and then this happens. I just can't keep doing this to
the fish. BTW, it is a 10 gallon tank with a bio wheel filter. It works
really well the smell was right, no eggy odor and until this whatever
happens. I also have only all live plants. They do very well and will
suffer some but usually come out of it as the water good bacteria builds
back up. Does anyone know anything I can do to make this stop. Hopefully I
won't get bombarded with being stupid about keeping a tank, I know I am
somewhat. But the one thing I can say is that I know for several months it
does fine. Using the same everything. And then bam, it does this again. The
tank has been going for a good year now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16535 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
I use a Mardel test kit. Results are:
ammonia 0.50
Nitrate 20
Nitrite 0
Total Hardness 250
Total Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity 0
pH below 6.4

The pH looks way off. Ammonia a little high. Nitrite looks good, rest I am
not sure how to interpret.

The reason I talk about odor is when I started using Amquel I like someone
said, noticed the smell of it. The first time I used it, the tank a small
amount of time later I thought smelled the same way. I called the company to
ask questions. They said the smell didn't hurt anything or make a difference
to the water. Said they would send another bottle to me as others had
complained of same bad smell of Amquel and they had made a new one to have a
more pleasant odor. While I talked to them, this person said he was the
owner of the company. He said Novaqua was also a good product to use with
the Amquel. I asked if okay to use both and he said yes, there were good
conditioners in the Novaqua to use along with Amquel would be a good plan to
follow. I did this for another 2 or 3 months until this happened.

I am not sure if the ammonia gives an accurate reading when using Amquel.
The pH also does not look right I know it is higher than that.

I also do not know what to do from here. I am ready to hang it up. If you
can give me any more instruction, I would certainly learn from it.

Also thank you so much for all your response. You have been great in trying
to help.

Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16536 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
I forgot to answer a question asked. I do use a gravel cleaner each time. I cannot clean every area every time. I have several live plants and a piece of fake looking driftwood. No plastic plants. Is this right. Is there a correct way I am not doing? You should use a gravel cleaner each time, is that right? Thanks again, Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16537 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Sandy,



I cannot comment on the Ammonia reading as I have heard people mention that
with Amquel, many test kits give incorrect reading. I am not sure if Mardel
is one of those.



PH seems very low compared to total hardness which is very high. This is
very off as usually GH goes hand in hand with KH and which works with the
PH.

It is also very clear that the company you talked to just wants to sell the
product for money rather then benefit the consumer. As others have said that
you don't need to use Novaqua and Amquel together but you had been advised
the other way.



I still suggest you change your water conditioner, do a large water change
and use activated carbon in the filter for 4 weeks and then see how things
proceed.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: 16 February 2006 06:16
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/
~ response from Sandy



I use a Mardel test kit. Results are:
ammonia 0.50
Nitrate 20
Nitrite 0
Total Hardness 250
Total Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity 0
pH below 6.4

The pH looks way off. Ammonia a little high. Nitrite looks good, rest I am
not sure how to interpret.

The reason I talk about odor is when I started using Amquel I like someone
said, noticed the smell of it. The first time I used it, the tank a small
amount of time later I thought smelled the same way. I called the company to
ask questions. They said the smell didn't hurt anything or make a difference
to the water. Said they would send another bottle to me as others had
complained of same bad smell of Amquel and they had made a new one to have a
more pleasant odor. While I talked to them, this person said he was the
owner of the company. He said Novaqua was also a good product to use with
the Amquel. I asked if okay to use both and he said yes, there were good
conditioners in the Novaqua to use along with Amquel would be a good plan to
follow. I did this for another 2 or 3 months until this happened.

I am not sure if the ammonia gives an accurate reading when using Amquel.
The pH also does not look right I know it is higher than that.

I also do not know what to do from here. I am ready to hang it up. If you
can give me any more instruction, I would certainly learn from it.

Also thank you so much for all your response. You have been great in trying
to help.

Sandy





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16538 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 2/15/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
That's fine. What you are doing is correct :-) With Plants I myself cannot
do a gravel vac of the entire gravel but if you do a little bit, it helps.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: 16 February 2006 07:05
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/
~ response from Sandy cleaning gravel



I forgot to answer a question asked. I do use a gravel cleaner each time. I
cannot clean every area every time. I have several live plants and a piece
of fake looking driftwood. No plastic plants. Is this right. Is there a
correct way I am not doing? You should use a gravel cleaner each time, is
that right? Thanks again, Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16539 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Hi again,

Here is more information I forgot to send. I had 1 gourmi, 5 neon tetras, 2
guppies, 3 small rosy tetras, 1 small algae eater, 2 upside down catfish.
The gourmi died, 2 neons died, 1 upside down cat died. I was sick about the
upside cat, they had been in there since the tank was set up, a year ago.
They are neat fish.

The tank now is getting better, that bad odor is gone, all the fish that are
left look pretty good. They are weakened and if this happens again know they
will probably die. One rosy tetra has a balloon looking thing over one eye.
The rest look pretty normal.

Thanks so much again, Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16540 From: MIke Schornak Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: goldfish stress
When I get home I will check it out. I haven't done that yet. Thanks for the help, and my fish thank you as well.

Thanks
Mike

seleya8@... wrote:
Red lines in their tails is more likely ammonia poisoning. Was the new tank
cycled? Typically, goldfish require a minimum of 10 gallons apiece and 20
gallons minimum for just one. Have you checked your water for ammonia, nitrites
and nitrates?

I have found my goldfish actually love to be somewhere busy -- they're
constantly hamming it up and begging from anyone who'll listen.

Vicky


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16541 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: huge mistake
So I Have been in and out of town a lot this past year and even more so the
past few months.. being that I clean my tank on a rush manor.. if I have two
days back in town I try and do it right away so that I can make sure all is
well with the fish... so being this I changed the water and cleaned the tank 9
days ago... after doing this I neglected to re plug in the heater.. I got
back early this am and just now at 4pm noticed the tank temp at 64° not good but
everything is alive.. I have tetras big snails, cories hatchet fish and I
know im forgetting some but anyhow you get the idea.. so I put the temp up to
68° and I think ill go and raise it more later I just hope they all live I
guess they were kinda hibernating.. Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16542 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
I have always heard that you should slowly raise the temp 2-4 degrees per
day and to use the whole day to protect against stress, ich, etc.



Shane

www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 4:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] huge mistake



So I Have been in and out of town a lot this past year and even more so the

past few months.. being that I clean my tank on a rush manor.. if I have two

days back in town I try and do it right away so that I can make sure all is
well with the fish... so being this I changed the water and cleaned the
tank 9
days ago... after doing this I neglected to re plug in the heater.. I got
back early this am and just now at 4pm noticed the tank temp at 64° not
good but
everything is alive.. I have tetras big snails, cories hatchet fish and I
know im forgetting some but anyhow you get the idea.. so I put the temp up
to
68° and I think ill go and raise it more later I just hope they all live I
guess they were kinda hibernating.. Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16543 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
yea I know that when dealing with ich but maybe ill do that just in case as
well and up the temp again tom.. so far they all seem fine Shannon

I have always heard that you should slowly raise the temp 2-4 degrees per
day and to use the whole day to protect against stress, ich, etc.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16544 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Hi Shannon, Sorry to hear about your heater being unplugged 9 days
ago and not being plugged back in until this morning. I know I don't
have to tell you to keep an eye out for Ich. If you do see any, you
know what to do -- we went through this last year. I have never
heard of raising the temperature no more than 2 o per day. I have
found it perfectly safe when things like this happen, to raise the
temperature slowly but surely as you have been doing In fact,
that's exactly what I did one time when I received a shipment of fish
from Europe that the airlines put in their refrigerator because the
box said Live Tropical Fish - PERISHABLE! The water was between 55 o
and 60 o and they all appeared dead. I gradually brought them up to
72 o that same night and all of them revived, without even getting
Ich.
\
I'd suggest continuing to raise the temperature and adding salt. The
salt may kill off some of the latent Ich spores that are always in
the water, before they get a chance to find a fish host, but more
importantly, the salt will promote an increase in the production of
body slime which will help ward off any Ich spores that may try to
get a foothold in your fishes' skin. Best Regards, Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
> So I Have been in and out of town a lot this past year and even
more so the
> past few months.. being that I clean my tank on a rush manor.. if I
have two
> days back in town I try and do it right away so that I can make
sure all is
> well with the fish... so being this I changed the water and
cleaned the tank 9
> days ago... after doing this I neglected to re plug in the
heater.. I got
> back early this am and just now at 4pm noticed the tank temp at
64° not good but
> everything is alive.. I have tetras big snails, cories hatchet
fish and I
> know im forgetting some but anyhow you get the idea.. so I put the
temp up to
> 68° and I think ill go and raise it more later I just hope they
all live I
> guess they were kinda hibernating.. Shannon
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16545 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
thanks ray I think ill do that salt thing they water is low so it will be
very easy to do that ill keep you posted.. thanks again.. Shannon

Hi Shannon, Sorry to hear about your heater being unplugged 9 days
ago and not being plugged back in until this morning. I know I don't
have to tell you to keep an eye out for Ich. If you do see any, you
know what to do -- we went through this last year. I have never
heard of raising the temperature no more than 2 o per day. I have
found it perfectly safe when things like this happen, to raise the
temperature slowly but surely as you have been doing In fact,
that's exactly what I did one time when I received a shipment of fish
from Europe that the airlines put in their refrigerator because the
box said Live Tropical Fish - PERISHABLE! The water was between 55 o
and 60 o and they all appeared dead. I gradually brought them up to
72 o that same night and all of them revived, without even getting
Ich.
\
I'd suggest continuing to raise the temperature and adding salt. The
salt may kill off some of the latent Ich spores that are always in
the water, before they get a chance to find a fish host, but more
importantly, the salt will promote an increase in the production of
body slime which will help ward off any Ich spores that may try to
get a foothold in your fishes' skin. Best Regards, Ray





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16546 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Shannon, Since you have Corys, you know you can't add too much salt. Add
about the same as you did last year -- about 1 tbs per 5 gallons. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16547 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/16/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
oh yea I know.. I have a zebra botia too and 2 large snails so I have to be
careful all around.. I usually put in about 1 tbs each water change but now im
adding it in slowly I didn't notice any spots but ill keep an eye out..
thanks so much Shannon

Shannon, Since you have Corys, you know you can't add too much salt. Add
about the same as you did last year -- about 1 tbs per 5 gallons. Ray






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16548 From: Sandra Kay Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner.
I have never seem red streaks running through their fins ever. But
good advice to remember about feeding them. Thank you.
Sandy


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "grimwulff" <grimwulff@...> wrote:
>
> Sandy how often are you feeding your fish?
> any signs of red streaks running through fins(bright blood vessels)?
> if overfeeding this could cause the ammonia levels to rise very high
at a > Companions of Grimwulff
> Gary Todd "Rufus" Barr - Owner
> 730 CR315
> Rockdale, TX 76567
> 512-446-7931
> www.grimwulff.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16549 From: Sandra Kay Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: gourmi started out thread
Thanks for all your advice. So I am going to change the water
conditioners I use. Which is the best one and should I use another in
combination with it. I have live plants, is it okay to add a plant
food liquid for them. Are there any other things I should be doing
that I am not.

Did my readings of the tank look way off. I did not know how to
interpret some of them. What do you think it told about the tank?

Thank you again so much, Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16550 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
That is an amazing story Raymond. How are the fish this morning Shannon?



Shane

www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 9:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: huge mistake



Hi Shannon, Sorry to hear about your heater being unplugged 9 days
ago and not being plugged back in until this morning. I know I don't
have to tell you to keep an eye out for Ich. If you do see any, you
know what to do -- we went through this last year. I have never
heard of raising the temperature no more than 2 o per day. I have
found it perfectly safe when things like this happen, to raise the
temperature slowly but surely as you have been doing In fact,
that's exactly what I did one time when I received a shipment of fish
from Europe that the airlines put in their refrigerator because the
box said Live Tropical Fish - PERISHABLE! The water was between 55 o
and 60 o and they all appeared dead. I gradually brought them up to
72 o that same night and all of them revived, without even getting
Ich.
\
I'd suggest continuing to raise the temperature and adding salt. The
salt may kill off some of the latent Ich spores that are always in
the water, before they get a chance to find a fish host, but more
importantly, the salt will promote an increase in the production of
body slime which will help ward off any Ich spores that may try to
get a foothold in your fishes' skin. Best Regards, Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
> So I Have been in and out of town a lot this past year and even
more so the
> past few months.. being that I clean my tank on a rush manor.. if I
have two
> days back in town I try and do it right away so that I can make
sure all is
> well with the fish... so being this I changed the water and
cleaned the tank 9
> days ago... after doing this I neglected to re plug in the
heater.. I got
> back early this am and just now at 4pm noticed the tank temp at
64° not good but
> everything is alive.. I have tetras big snails, cories hatchet
fish and I
> know im forgetting some but anyhow you get the idea.. so I put the
temp up to
> 68° and I think ill go and raise it more later I just hope they
all live I
> guess they were kinda hibernating.. Shannon
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16551 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
well all seems fine I have added the salt and I only put the temp at 70 °
yesterday but it rose to 74 somehow on its own.. which my house temp is 64 so
not sure about that.. maybe my heater is off.. so I just raised it the last
degree and ill see when I get home no signs of anything right now.. ill keep my
fingers crossed.. thanks Shannon

That is an amazing story Raymond. How are the fish this morning Shannon?



Shane





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16552 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
You may have passed the high risk point by now. Please keep us updated and
thanks.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 7:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: huge mistake




well all seems fine I have added the salt and I only put the temp at 70 °
yesterday but it rose to 74 somehow on its own.. which my house temp is 64
so
not sure about that.. maybe my heater is off.. so I just raised it the last

degree and ill see when I get home no signs of anything right now.. ill keep
my
fingers crossed.. thanks Shannon

That is an amazing story Raymond. How are the fish this morning Shannon?



Shane





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16553 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Sandy,

I do not know what type of test kit Mardel provides, and w not able to look
it up as it appears their SOA name server is hosed. I did find a mention of
strips elsewhere on the 'Net. As someone else mentioned, a certain type of
test kit does not provide an accurate reading. Here is the text from the
Amquel data sheet:
"AmQuel may affect the dyes in certain types of cotton fabrics. This happens
for the same reason that Ammonia test kits using the Nessler reagents do not
work with AmQuel or AmQuel+. These products reduce the coloring agents used
in the Nessler reaction test kits, and apparently in a very small selection
of cotton based fabrics."
So, if you are not using test strips, make sure that the kit you use does
not use the Nessler reagents.

The amount of ammonia you mention should not terribly affect the fish in a
short term situation. It is not good, but it can be livable, so long as it
clears up fairly quickly. You really want the ammonia to be 0 ppm. With the
alkalinity/buffering measure being 0, I am not surprised that you have a low
pH. Pretty much this means that there is nothing in the water to hold the pH
as a certain level.

The data sheet on AmQuel Plus does mention an odor to the product. Says it
is nothing to worry about. I'd really be surprised if you actually talked
with Dr. Rofen on the phone when you called Kordon. Probably someone who is
feeling a little too big for his britches was on the phone with you. Dr.
Rofen has been around since at least the 1950's, and founded a number of
companies, which, with others, have been all combined under the Novalek
name.

I'd switch to the AmQuel (not Plus) considering the buffering capacity of
your water.

I'll expand more replying directly to your other posts.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 1:16 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/
~ response from Sandy

I use a Mardel test kit. Results are: ammonia 0.50 Nitrate 20 Nitrite 0
Total Hardness 250 Total Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity 0 pH below 6.4 The
pH looks way off. Ammonia a little high. Nitrite looks good, rest I am
not sure how to interpret. The reason I talk about odor is when I started
using Amquel I like someone
said, noticed the smell of it. The first time I used it, the tank a small
amount of time later I thought smelled the same way. I called the company to
ask questions. They said the smell didn't hurt anything or make a difference
to the water. Said they would send another bottle to me as others had
complained of same bad smell of Amquel and they had made a new one to have a
more pleasant odor. While I talked to them, this person said he was the
owner of the company. He said Novaqua was also a good product to use with
the Amquel. I asked if okay to use both and he said yes, there were good
conditioners in the Novaqua to use along with Amquel would be a good plan to
follow. I did this for another 2 or 3 months until this happened. I am not
sure if the ammonia gives an accurate reading when using Amquel.
The pH also does not look right I know it is higher than that. I also do
not know what to do from here. I am ready to hang it up. If you
can give me any more instruction, I would certainly learn from it. Also
thank you so much for all your response. You have been great in trying
to help. Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16554 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Sandy,

With the pH you mentioned in your previous post, the gourami, and tetras
should have been OK. The guppies like a higher pH as do the upside down
catfish, if they are _Synodontis_ sp. Don't know what the algae eater is so
I can't comment on that one. There are a number of species sold as algae
eaters, and not all have the same requirements for water quality.

One thing that does stand out, however, is that your tank was (still is)
over crowded. You don't say what species your gourami was, so I cannot
comment on that, but the smallest gourami goes near 2" and is deep bodied.
Even if you follow the old saw of 1 inch of fish per gallon, your tank is
over crowded, and that rule has been proven wrong again and again. More than
length goes into the calculation (notice I mentioned the deep body of a
gourami?). The remaining tetra would be enough for a tank of this size. And
you may also be able to add a small cat, perhaps, to the tank for some
balance.

The rosy tetra probably has a condition known as pop-eye. This will mot
likely cure itself so long as the water conditions become better.

What probably happened is that you suffered a pH crash in your tank, where
the pH dropped rapidly, and with the fish already stressed by the load in
the tank were pushed over the edge.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 12:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/
~ response from Sandy

Hi again, Here is more information I forgot to send. I had 1 gourmi, 5 neon
tetras, 2
guppies, 3 small rosy tetras, 1 small algae eater, 2 upside down catfish.
The gourmi died, 2 neons died, 1 upside down cat died. I was sick about the
upside cat, they had been in there since the tank was set up, a year ago.
They are neat fish. The tank now is getting better, that bad odor is
gone, all the fish that are
left look pretty good. They are weakened and if this happens again know they
will probably die. One rosy tetra has a balloon looking thing over one eye.
The rest look pretty normal. Thanks so much again, Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16555 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/17/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
I always clean a portion of the gravel when doing a water change. Generally
1/4 to 1/3 the gravel bed. Try to avoid being too vigorous around the plants
so you do not disturb the roots.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 2:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/
~ response from Sandy cleaning gravel

I forgot to answer a question asked. I do use a gravel cleaner each time. I
cannot clean every area every time. I have several live plants and a piece
of fake looking driftwood. No plastic plants. Is this right. Is there a
correct way I am not doing? You should use a gravel cleaner each time, is
that right? Thanks again, Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16556 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/18/2006
Subject: Re: gourmi started out thread
The best, so far as I am concerned are AmQuel and Novaqua, when used as
directed.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandra Kay
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 7:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] gourmi started out thread

Thanks for all your advice. So I am going to change the water
conditioners I use. Which is the best one and should I use another in
combination with it. I have live plants, is it okay to add a plant
food liquid for them. Are there any other things I should be doing
that I am not.

Did my readings of the tank look way off. I did not know how to
interpret some of them. What do you think it told about the tank?

Thank you again so much, Sandy





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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16557 From: fiddlenero Date: 2/18/2006
Subject: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
I started an aquarium less than two months ago (end of December).
My choices have been largely driven by the pet store's recommendations
about fish compatibilities.

I started with one White Cloud Minnow, one Threadfin Rainbow and two
Red Blonde Guppies.

After the aquarium stabilized, I added four new fishes last week: one
Silver Molly, one Penguin Tetra, one Yellow Double Swordtail Guppy and
one Blue Betta Fish.

Two disturbing developments are being observed in the last 2-3 days.

1) The pet shop claimed that the penguin tetra is well-baheved but I
find it to be aggressive, specially during feeding time. It harasses
the smaller fishes (the 3 guppies, and the rainbow).

2) Something disturbing happened in the last one hour. I fed the
fishes and checked that everyone was fine. Then I checked them a short
while ago, and find that one Red Blond Guppy is dying. Its entire tail
and part of its side fins are missing and it cannot control and orient
its body now. It seems that the tail and fins might have been bitten
off...

I don't think this guppy had any infection to its tails and fins. I
check my fishes regularly with a lens.

Is it possible that any other fish would have attacked and miamed this
fish? The Penguin Tetra?

Felling very saddemned at the developments and hence any suguidance or
feedback from anyone will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Subh
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16558 From: payumo_pwu Date: 2/18/2006
Subject: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Does anyone knwo where to buy affordable aqua/pond fish? (koi, ryukin
etc) near Antipolo/Cainta/ Marikina? Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16559 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/18/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Both tetras and white cloud mountain fish are schooling fish and need to be
kept in groups for the most success with them. While tetras, as a whole, are
no tthought of as aggressive fish, there are fish in this group that are
aggressive. I've never kept the penguin tetra, but I would suspect that
without compatriots is showing some aggressiveness toward the other fish.
Individual fish can also exhibit behaviors that are not the norm for their
species as well, showing greater or lesser aggressiveness.

Also, guppies can be quite aggressive, particularly amoung themselves.
Guppies are usually kept as pairs or as reverse trios--two females to one
male. Males can harrass females to death.

I don't know why you are buying fish singly rather than in pairs or groups.
I've seen the listings in shops about compatiblilities, and sometimes wonder
where they got them from. You should probably do some reading. Get a good
book, like the Baensch Aquarium Atlas, Volume 1. Google fish you might be
interested in keeping and see what various sites have to say about them. As
you have just done, ask on thi list and others about specific fish and how
they can be best kept.

With the information on hand, it would be difficult to come to a conclusion
about the damage done to the guppy. I'd lean toward the other male guppy,
but is sounds like a lot of damge to occur within an hour without any help.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of fiddlenero
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 3:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...



I started an aquarium less than two months ago (end of December).
My choices have been largely driven by the pet store's recommendations
about fish compatibilities.

I started with one White Cloud Minnow, one Threadfin Rainbow and two
Red Blonde Guppies.

After the aquarium stabilized, I added four new fishes last week: one
Silver Molly, one Penguin Tetra, one Yellow Double Swordtail Guppy and
one Blue Betta Fish.

Two disturbing developments are being observed in the last 2-3 days.

1) The pet shop claimed that the penguin tetra is well-baheved but I
find it to be aggressive, specially during feeding time. It harasses
the smaller fishes (the 3 guppies, and the rainbow).

2) Something disturbing happened in the last one hour. I fed the
fishes and checked that everyone was fine. Then I checked them a short
while ago, and find that one Red Blond Guppy is dying. Its entire tail
and part of its side fins are missing and it cannot control and orient
its body now. It seems that the tail and fins might have been bitten
off...

I don't think this guppy had any infection to its tails and fins. I
check my fishes regularly with a lens.

Is it possible that any other fish would have attacked and miamed this
fish? The Penguin Tetra?

Felling very saddemned at the developments and hence any suguidance or
feedback from anyone will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Subh
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16560 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 2/18/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
In a message dated 2/18/2006 3:58:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
fiddlenero@... writes:

<<<I started with one White Cloud Minnow, one Threadfin Rainbow and two
Red Blonde Guppies.

After the aquarium stabilized, I added four new fishes last week: one
Silver Molly, one Penguin Tetra, one Yellow Double Swordtail Guppy and
one Blue Betta Fish.

Two disturbing developments are being observed in the last 2-3 days.

1) The pet shop claimed that the penguin tetra is well-baheved but I
find it to be aggressive, specially during feeding time. It harasses
the smaller fishes (the 3 guppies, and the rainbow).>>>


Some tetras can be quite aggressive while others are very peaceful. I've not
kept penguins, so cannot comment on their typical behavior but as Steve
mentioned, they prefer to be kept in groups.

<<<2) Something disturbing happened in the last one hour. I fed the
fishes and checked that everyone was fine. Then I checked them a short
while ago, and find that one Red Blond Guppy is dying. Its entire tail
and part of its side fins are missing and it cannot control and orient
its body now. It seems that the tail and fins might have been bitten
off...>>>





I would more imagine the betta might be the culprit -- they're usually
pretty awful tankmates for gups. Those flowing fins are like waving a red flag at
a bull. And they most assuredly can cause that much damage in very little
time. The stocking suggestions you've received from the fish store thus far
leave a great deal to be desired.

What size is this tank?

Vicky


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16561 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
I am using test strips and they are not what you say below.

I am confused what alkalinity/buffering is and what it means that there is
nothing in the water to hold the pH as a certain level. What do you do when
the water it like this to fix it? Thank you again.




So, if you are not using test strips, make sure that the kit you use does
not use the Nessler reagents.

The amount of ammonia you mention should not terribly affect the fish in a
short term situation. It is not good, but it can be livable, so long as it
clears up fairly quickly. You really want the ammonia to be 0 ppm. With the
alkalinity/buffering measure being 0, I am not surprised that you have a low
pH. Pretty much this means that there is nothing in the water to hold the pH
as a certain level.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16562 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Are there things to cause pH to drop rapidly. What do you do when the pH
runs on the low side. I still do not understand why it was so low. Sandy




What probably happened is that you suffered a pH crash in your tank, where
the pH dropped rapidly, and with the fish already stressed by the load in
the tank were pushed over the edge.

\\Steve//

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16563 From: Sandy Kay Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: gourmi started out thread
I only see Amquel+ around here to purchase. I am confused what to use. You
say to use them, others say they don't like these and use stress zyme and
some other names.

I guess it will be my decision now. I do want to say thank you Steve for
your advice. Also thank you to everyone else for your help.

Sandy




From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
Subject: RE: gourmi started out thread

The best, so far as I am concerned are AmQuel and Novaqua, when used as
directed.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16564 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
Sandra,

Here is a link to an understandable text definition of alkalinity:
http://msucares.com/pubs/infosheets/is1334.htm.

The suggestion is to use limestone to boost alkalinity. There are products
on the market for this, known generically as kalkawasser, which is German
and roughly translates as limewater.

However, before you go to this end, I'd suggest testing your tap water. I
fit is a municipal supply (i.e. you don't have your own well), it is not
likely it has such a low alkalinity--such would be too damaging to the
system. If this is true--the incoming water has an acceptable amount of
alkalinity, you will need to determine where the alkalinity is being lost.
One thing that may happen is the water people are boosting the pH without
boosting alkalinity. Measure the pH along with the alkalinity of the
incoming water. Allow your sample to sit for 24 hours and remeasure. Note
any differences. If the initial measurement of alkalinity is low, you may
not a drop in pH over the period of standing of the water prior to the
second test.

Get a water report from your water company. They should be distributing one
each year to every one of their customers. If you are not directly paying
for the water, you probably don't receive one and have to ask for it. It may
also be available online. Keep in mind that you may have a water company
that is not municipally owned, but is private, but a good place to start is
with your locality's governmental web site (I put it this way, because I
don't know where you live and what governmental unit structure is being
used).

So, if your measurements are OK, and they roughly match that of your water
supplier, the next step is to check your water after the water conditioner
has been added. Wait a few hours (if your water is stable out of the tap)
after adding the conditioner and then measure the pH and alkalinity of the
water. If you note a difference from what was started with, the conditioner
is the culprit. You should then try another conditioner and test that as
well.

If the culprit is not the conditioner, then there is something in your tank
that is neutralizing the alkalinity. It could be a decorative piece, the
gravel or something else. It could even be the biological process itself.
When pH is adjusted, in a downward direction, it is possible to "break the
buffer". What this means is that the adjustments made are able to overcome
the buffering capacity of the water and you suffer a pH crash. This is one
of the reasons I always recommend that a person does not mess with the
chemistry of the water to make it livable for the fish they wish to keep,
they should keep the fish that like the water the person has.

What you should do in this case is to do a massive water change, between 75
and 90%, remove all but enough water to cover the fish in the tank. Measure
the alkalinity and pH of the incoming water, and measure again after adding
it to the tank. Then measure at lest once a day until a pattern is
established. If the water starts on a downward path, you are heading for
trouble again, and need to determine how to rectify this. If I recall, I
thought that your tank was a bit over crowded. This could lead to problems
such as you are having. Set up another tank and move some of the fish over
to it. See if this takes care of the problem. If you are overcrowded, this
will ease the biological load and the process should start to reverse
itself, with help from the water changes. However, you may still have a
problem with the alkalinity dropping, then there is something in the
aquarium that is causing it, such as the aforementioned decoration, gravel,
etc. It would take some detective work to figure that out.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 4:42 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~
response from Sandy ~ Steve

I am using test strips and they are not what you say below. I am confused
what alkalinity/buffering is and what it means that there is
nothing in the water to hold the pH as a certain level. What do you do when
the water it like this to fix it? Thank you again. So, if you are not
using test strips, make sure that the kit you use does not use the Nessler
reagents. The amount of ammonia you mention should not terribly affect the
fish in a short term situation. It is not good, but it can be livable, so
long as it clears up fairly quickly. You really want the ammonia to be 0
ppm. With the alkalinity/buffering measure being 0, I am not surprised that
you have a low pH. Pretty much this means that there is nothing in the water
to hold the pH as a certain level.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16565 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~ response from Sa
See my previous reply to you where this is touched upon.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 4:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Gourmi? spelling not sure/water conditioner/ ~
response from Sandy ~ Steve

Are there things to cause pH to drop rapidly. What do you do when the pH
runs on the low side. I still do not understand why it was so low. Sandy
What probably happened is that you suffered a pH crash in your tank, where
the pH dropped rapidly, and with the fish already stressed by the load in
the tank were pushed over the edge. \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16566 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: gourmi started out thread
Sandy,

Just did a quick Google on AmQuel, and it seems to be readily available at
online outlets.

I've used AmQuel for about 20 years. At that time there was nothing else
that did what AmQuel does, though some claimed to do so. I have met and
spoken with the inventor of AmQuel, and also participated in some projects
with him. He is a water chemist who keeps fish. He also owns his own company
now and does sell a lot of fish and related stuff. I'd call him an
acquaintance, as I have not spoken with him in several years (but that could
change tomorrow). (I have mentioned this relationship many times previously
in various messages.) I tend to stick with products I know work. From what I
am given to understand, the changes to AmQuel to produce AmQuel Plus were
made by Novalek and not the inventor of AmQuel.

Check out the data sheets on the various products to see what they have to
say. To find those on AmQuel go to http://www.novalek.com/kordon.htm, you'll
need to search for the others.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 4:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: gourmi started out thread

I only see Amquel+ around here to purchase. I am confused what to use. You
say to use them, others say they don't like these and use stress zyme and
some other names. I guess it will be my decision now. I do want to say
thank you Steve for
your advice. Also thank you to everyone else for your help. Sandy From:
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> Subject: RE: gourmi started out thread
The best, so far as I am concerned are AmQuel and Novaqua, when used as
directed.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16567 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Infected Feeers/Bacterial disease
I bought some feeders, rosies, and put some in both my 75 and 10 gal.
The 6 in the 75 were eaten quickly and the remaining 7 were in the 10.
Within 36 hours 4 of the ones in the 10 were dead at the filter.
NOW my male betta is ill on the bottom, not breathing or swimming well.
One of my tetras appears to have "wounds" on his gills, open red sores.
I'm thinking bacterial...does this sound right?

One of the feeders had open wounds on his back, red streaked sores.

Everyone in the 75 appear to be well but I still fed them medicated
anti-bacterial pellets this morning.
I also fed this to the 10 gal along with a furan treatment.

I am fairly certain the betta will not make it through this, but what
about the others? 1 unknown type of white tetra and 2 cory cats (1
baby) is all.

Please give me any info if you think this is something other than
bacterial and if it is then how to treat.

(I checked water conditions once the dead fish were removed and all was
fine. Should I re-check?)

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16568 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Re: Infected Feeders/Bacterial disease
Should have read "Infected Feeders"


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 2:32 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Infected Feeers/Bacterial disease


I bought some feeders, rosies, and put some in both my 75 and 10 gal.
The 6 in the 75 were eaten quickly and the remaining 7 were in the 10.
Within 36 hours 4 of the ones in the 10 were dead at the filter. NOW my
male betta is ill on the bottom, not breathing or swimming well. One of
my tetras appears to have "wounds" on his gills, open red sores. I'm
thinking bacterial...does this sound right?

One of the feeders had open wounds on his back, red streaked sores.

Everyone in the 75 appear to be well but I still fed them medicated
anti-bacterial pellets this morning. I also fed this to the 10 gal along
with a furan treatment.

I am fairly certain the betta will not make it through this, but what
about the others? 1 unknown type of white tetra and 2 cory cats (1
baby) is all.

Please give me any info if you think this is something other than
bacterial and if it is then how to treat.

(I checked water conditions once the dead fish were removed and all was
fine. Should I re-check?)

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16569 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Infected Feeders/Bacterial disease
OK now the tetra is swimming like crazy against the full length of the
glass, like he's scratching...parasites?
Argh...



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 2:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Infected Feeders/Bacterial disease


Should have read "Infected Feeders"


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 2:32 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Infected Feeers/Bacterial disease


I bought some feeders, rosies, and put some in both my 75 and 10 gal.
The 6 in the 75 were eaten quickly and the remaining 7 were in the 10.
Within 36 hours 4 of the ones in the 10 were dead at the filter. NOW my
male betta is ill on the bottom, not breathing or swimming well. One of
my tetras appears to have "wounds" on his gills, open red sores. I'm
thinking bacterial...does this sound right?

One of the feeders had open wounds on his back, red streaked sores.

Everyone in the 75 appear to be well but I still fed them medicated
anti-bacterial pellets this morning. I also fed this to the 10 gal along
with a furan treatment.

I am fairly certain the betta will not make it through this, but what
about the others? 1 unknown type of white tetra and 2 cory cats (1
baby) is all.

Please give me any info if you think this is something other than
bacterial and if it is then how to treat.

(I checked water conditions once the dead fish were removed and all was
fine. Should I re-check?)

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16570 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 2/19/2006
Subject: Dying of clay based substrate
Forgive the cross post and what may be construed (or what actually is) a
stupid question but can substrate be dyed? I looked at the price of
Flourite, Eco-complete etc and with the size of the tanks I am doing it
will cost me more than the tanks cost to use them. There is another product
that has been recommended (Profile) however I don't like the colour. I am
wondering if I can use a food dye to get it to the colour I want. I figure
if the dyes are safe to eat, they must be safe for the enviroment and fish.
The only glitch that I can see is I am not sure if the dye will lock itself
to the substrate or will later bleed out.

thanks

Rob
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16571 From: Jerry Young Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Its nice to know there's a fellow Filipino in this group. Kamusta po?

payumo_pwu <payumo_pwu@...> wrote: Does anyone knwo where to buy affordable aqua/pond fish? (koi, ryukin
etc) near Antipolo/Cainta/ Marikina? Thanks







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16572 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
My betta is laying on the bottom, labored breathing and his mouth is
white. I t 's not fuzzy white, just white.
Help? !

(Water conditions test perfectly.)
(10 gal. w/ male betta, 2 cory cats, 1 tetra.)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16573 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Sounds like mouth fungus -- it doesn't have to be "fuzzy", its really a
bacteria infection so will not have that "cottony" growth. With his
described condition, I wouldn't give too much hope, although there's
always some hope as long as he's alive. I'd try salt (1 tbs per 5 gal.
to start) and a good medication effective against mouth fungus. Ray
\ --
- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
>
> My betta is laying on the bottom, labored breathing and his mouth is
> white. I t 's not fuzzy white, just white.
> Help? !
>
> (Water conditions test perfectly.)
> (10 gal. w/ male betta, 2 cory cats, 1 tetra.)
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16574 From: Leslie Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
I added the salt and jungle fungus tabs. I notice now that there is
also white on one side of him. Still fungus?

And what could have caused this?

I added feeder fish 4 days ago then this started. Could they have
been the carriers?

I hate buying feeders. I have half a mind to start breeding them
myself but it seems like a lot of work.

Thanks,
Leslie


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like mouth fungus -- it doesn't have to be "fuzzy", its really a
> bacteria infection so will not have that "cottony" growth. With his
> described condition, I wouldn't give too much hope, although there's
> always some hope as long as he's alive. I'd try salt (1 tbs per 5 gal.
> to start) and a good medication effective against mouth fungus. Ray
> \ --
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16575 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Leslie, Note, this is not a fungus (even though it is called "mouth
fungus"). It is a bacteria infection, and with it now being on the
side of the fish is diagnosed as Columnaris, which will affect both
the mouth and the body. This disease is fast acting and must be
treated ASAP, as it also attacks the gill membranes, which is why
he's breathing heavily. Treat with Furan II. If you can't find it,
treat with Kanacyn (Kanamycin) -- and SALT. Potassium Permanganate
(by Kordon - I believe) is also effective, but don't mix
medications. It most likely came in with the feeder fish. That is
why it is always best to quarantine and treat (as necessary) feeder
fish before adding them to your tank, as they can introduce disease.
Next time isolate your feeder fish first. Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I added the salt and jungle fungus tabs. I notice now that there is
> also white on one side of him. Still fungus?
>
> And what could have caused this?
>
> I added feeder fish 4 days ago then this started. Could they have
> been the carriers?
>
> I hate buying feeders. I have half a mind to start breeding them
> myself but it seems like a lot of work.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Sounds like mouth fungus -- it doesn't have to be "fuzzy", its
really a
> > bacteria infection so will not have that "cottony" growth. With
his
> > described condition, I wouldn't give too much hope, although
there's
> > always some hope as long as he's alive. I'd try salt (1 tbs per
5 gal.
> > to start) and a good medication effective against mouth fungus.
Ray
> >
\
--
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16576 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
Shannon, Just now caught this post; missed it earlier. My fish are
doing fine this morning, thanks, but I was talking about what
happened to some of my fish a number of years ago. They all did well
after they revived -- didn't even get sick. Haven't seen anything
more on yours so I presume all is well, I hope. Regards, Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
>
> well all seems fine I have added the salt and I only put the temp
at 70 °
> yesterday but it rose to 74 somehow on its own.. which my house
temp is 64 so
> not sure about that.. maybe my heater is off.. so I just raised it
the last
> degree and ill see when I get home no signs of anything right now..
ill keep my
> fingers crossed.. thanks Shannon
>
> That is an amazing story Raymond. How are the fish this morning
Shannon?
>
>
>
> Shane
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16577 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: salt bath formula for fw fish?
hi all,

wondering if anyone can give me the salt bath formula
for fw fish. 1 of my bettas jumped the tank divider so
now both are suffering from an extreme amount of torn,
raggedy fins. i've salt bathed bettas in the past but
i cannot remember the formula. i have aquarium salt
for my reef tanks, so if someone could give me the
formula using aquarium salt, it would be much
appreciated!

tia.

Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16578 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: salt bath formula for fw fish?
Hi Val, The use of only Stress-Coat or a similar product is often
used in this case. If you prefer to give him a salt bath, there are
several different formulas, depending how long you keep the fish in
there. In general, you can use 2 tbs (6 tsp) of salt per gallon,
with the fish being in the bath for up to 30 minutes. Or, you could
use 8 tsp. salt per gal. for 10 - 20 minutes. In either case, take
the fish out of the bath and put the fish back in his regular tank if
you see him start to tire (roll over) or jump out. Afterwards, add
Stress Coat to the tank, or 1 tbs salt per 5 gallons to help promote
body slime. Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Valeen Gonzalez
<valeendgonzalez@...> wrote:
>
> hi all,
>
> wondering if anyone can give me the salt bath formula
> for fw fish. 1 of my bettas jumped the tank divider so
> now both are suffering from an extreme amount of torn,
> raggedy fins. i've salt bathed bettas in the past but
> i cannot remember the formula. i have aquarium salt
> for my reef tanks, so if someone could give me the
> formula using aquarium salt, it would be much
> appreciated!
>
> tia.
>
> Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
> valeendgonzalez@...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16579 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: huge mistake
I am amazed all is well with them too..I wonder if it is due to the fact I
was keeping the temp about 74.. my heater seems to like that number best lol if
I raise it at all it seems to go to about 79 I just cant keep it at a steady
number other than 74 lol.. Shannon:

Shannon, Just now caught this post; missed it earlier. My fish are
doing fine this morning, thanks, but I was talking about what
happened to some of my fish a number of years ago. They all did well
after they revived -- didn't even get sick. Haven't seen anything
more on yours so I presume all is well, I hope. Regards, Ray






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16580 From: Leslie Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Crud.
Well I treated with furan-2 yesterday afternoon. Meds are already
mixed.
The spots on his sides are much worse this evening and his swimming is
very difficult. He swims sideways. Should I just end this for him?
I think it's inevitable regarding the outcome and I hate to watch him
suffer. We've had for years.
He still is trying to get to the side each time he sees me at the tank.
So far the tank has jungle fungus tabs, furan II & salt.

Leslie


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Leslie, Note, this is not a fungus (even though it is called "mouth
> fungus"). It is a bacteria infection, and with it now being on the
> side of the fish is diagnosed as Columnaris, which will affect both
> the mouth and the body. This disease is fast acting and must be
> treated ASAP, as it also attacks the gill membranes, which is why
> he's breathing heavily. Treat with Furan II. If you can't find it,
> treat with Kanacyn (Kanamycin) -- and SALT. Potassium Permanganate
> (by Kordon - I believe) is also effective, but don't mix
> medications. It most likely came in with the feeder fish. That is
> why it is always best to quarantine and treat (as necessary) feeder
> fish before adding them to your tank, as they can introduce disease.
> Next time isolate your feeder fish first. Ray
> \
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I added the salt and jungle fungus tabs. I notice now that there is
> > also white on one side of him. Still fungus?
> >
> > And what could have caused this?
> >
> > I added feeder fish 4 days ago then this started. Could they have
> > been the carriers?
> >
> > I hate buying feeders. I have half a mind to start breeding them
> > myself but it seems like a lot of work.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Sounds like mouth fungus -- it doesn't have to be "fuzzy", its
> really a
> > > bacteria infection so will not have that "cottony" growth. With
> his
> > > described condition, I wouldn't give too much hope, although
> there's
> > > always some hope as long as he's alive. I'd try salt (1 tbs per
> 5 gal.
> > > to start) and a good medication effective against mouth fungus.
> Ray
> > >
> \
> --
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16581 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: salt bath formula for fw fish?
hey, thanks ray! i have stress coat - i use it as a tap conditioner. so i'll start using it in their tank.

i think i'll try the salt bath formula you mentioned. i know they can handle it because i've given them baths before when they previously jumped their divider. darn fish

thanks,
valeen

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
Hi Val, The use of only Stress-Coat or a similar product is often
used in this case. If you prefer to give him a salt bath, there are
several different formulas, depending how long you keep the fish in
there. In general, you can use 2 tbs (6 tsp) of salt per gallon,
with the fish being in the bath for up to 30 minutes. Or, you could
use 8 tsp. salt per gal. for 10 - 20 minutes. In either case, take
the fish out of the bath and put the fish back in his regular tank if
you see him start to tire (roll over) or jump out. Afterwards, add
Stress Coat to the tank, or 1 tbs salt per 5 gallons to help promote
body slime. Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Valeen Gonzalez
<valeendgonzalez@...> wrote:
>
> hi all,
>
> wondering if anyone can give me the salt bath formula
> for fw fish. 1 of my bettas jumped the tank divider so
> now both are suffering from an extreme amount of torn,
> raggedy fins. i've salt bathed bettas in the past but
> i cannot remember the formula. i have aquarium salt
> for my reef tanks, so if someone could give me the
> formula using aquarium salt, it would be much
> appreciated!
>
> tia.
>
> Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
> valeendgonzalez@...
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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---------------------------------





Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16582 From: jerry young Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Deseases
I noticed that many of my neon tetras are infected with the incurable
neon tetra desease. Please advise me how to prevent this. Whats the
cause?

And I noticed that my peppered corydoras are often being infected with
fungus. One had a severe case that almost ate away his head. I gave
him a salt bath treatment that caused him to become sluggish and it
eventually died after a few days. I know this was a stupid thing to do
since catfish are intollerant of salt but I was getting desperate and
the treatment lasted only 5 minutes or so. Last Sunday I saw another
peppered cory infected, can somebody help me with this? I quickly
added some medication for fungus and when I checked this morning it
seems to be getting better. But why is it that only the peppered corys
are affected. I have pandas, sterbas, albino and bronze corys along
with other tetras and some dwarf cichlids and they're fine.

How can I prevent these deseases? Thanks!

-Jerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16583 From: fiddlenero Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, seleya8@... wrote:

> Some tetras can be quite aggressive while others are very peaceful.
I've not
> kept penguins, so cannot comment on their typical behavior but as
Steve
> mentioned, they prefer to be kept in groups.

Yes, I am realizing that... I think I have the liberty of adding a few
more fishes in my 20-gallon tank, and i will try to match up the
existing fishes with their own types.

> I would more imagine the betta might be the culprit -- they're usually
> pretty awful tankmates for gups. Those flowing fins are like waving
a red flag at
> a bull. And they most assuredly can cause that much damage in very
little
> time. The stocking suggestions you've received from the fish store
thus far
> leave a great deal to be desired.

You are right, I am learning it the hard way.
In the meantime, I have moved the betta to a small 1.5 gallon tank of
its own. Things are under better control now.

> What size is this tank?

20 gallons.

Thanks Vicky, for your feedback...

Subh
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16584 From: fiddlenero Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Thanks Steve, for the very good feedback and suggestions.

Now I believe the damage to the guppy was done by the betta... The
betta probably mistook the flowing tail of this guppy to be that of
another male betta and attacked it. I don't think it was the other
male guppy... the two guppies seemed to be getting alog very well for
the last two months. I think I was wrong to suspect the tetra, which
though slightly aggressive during feeding times, is largely harmless.

I have moved the betta to a small independent tank of its own... seems
well adjusted there.

I think I got bad suggestions from the pet store regarding the
stocking of my fishes and hence have individual members of each type.
In hindsight, that seems like a stupid mistake. Since I have a 20
gallon tank, I will try to add a couple of more minnows and tetras.
(After removing the betta and accounting for the dead guppy, I now
have just 6 fishes in the 20 gallon tank).

Thanks for your suggestions.

Subh

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Both tetras and white cloud mountain fish are schooling fish and
need to be
> kept in groups for the most success with them. While tetras, as a
whole, are
> no tthought of as aggressive fish, there are fish in this group that are
> aggressive. I've never kept the penguin tetra, but I would suspect that
> without compatriots is showing some aggressiveness toward the other
fish.
> Individual fish can also exhibit behaviors that are not the norm for
their
> species as well, showing greater or lesser aggressiveness.
>
> Also, guppies can be quite aggressive, particularly amoung themselves.
> Guppies are usually kept as pairs or as reverse trios--two females
to one
> male. Males can harrass females to death.
>
> I don't know why you are buying fish singly rather than in pairs or
groups.
> I've seen the listings in shops about compatiblilities, and
sometimes wonder
> where they got them from. You should probably do some reading. Get a
good
> book, like the Baensch Aquarium Atlas, Volume 1. Google fish you
might be
> interested in keeping and see what various sites have to say about
them. As
> you have just done, ask on thi list and others about specific fish
and how
> they can be best kept.
>
> With the information on hand, it would be difficult to come to a
conclusion
> about the damage done to the guppy. I'd lean toward the other male
guppy,
> but is sounds like a lot of damge to occur within an hour without
any help.
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16585 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Aggression in bettas is generally conspecific. What this means is that
bettas will only be aggressive toward other bettas. And, this is not a hard
and fast rule. If you raise bettas together from the egg stage,
aggressiveness I males is greatly reduced, not eliminated, but reduced,
between those males raised together. (A case where, one might say, that
familiarity breeds non-contempt.) While I'd not rule out the betta, I'd not
rule him in either. It may have been more than one fish doing the dirty deed
as well.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of fiddlenero
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 10:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...


Thanks Steve, for the very good feedback and suggestions.

Now I believe the damage to the guppy was done by the betta... The
betta probably mistook the flowing tail of this guppy to be that of
another male betta and attacked it. I don't think it was the other
male guppy... the two guppies seemed to be getting alog very well for
the last two months. I think I was wrong to suspect the tetra, which
though slightly aggressive during feeding times, is largely harmless.

I have moved the betta to a small independent tank of its own... seems
well adjusted there.

I think I got bad suggestions from the pet store regarding the
stocking of my fishes and hence have individual members of each type.
In hindsight, that seems like a stupid mistake. Since I have a 20
gallon tank, I will try to add a couple of more minnows and tetras.
(After removing the betta and accounting for the dead guppy, I now
have just 6 fishes in the 20 gallon tank).

Thanks for your suggestions.

Subh

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Both tetras and white cloud mountain fish are schooling fish and
need to be
> kept in groups for the most success with them. While tetras, as a
whole, are
> no tthought of as aggressive fish, there are fish in this group that are
> aggressive. I've never kept the penguin tetra, but I would suspect that
> without compatriots is showing some aggressiveness toward the other
fish.
> Individual fish can also exhibit behaviors that are not the norm for
their
> species as well, showing greater or lesser aggressiveness.
>
> Also, guppies can be quite aggressive, particularly amoung themselves.
> Guppies are usually kept as pairs or as reverse trios--two females
to one
> male. Males can harrass females to death.
>
> I don't know why you are buying fish singly rather than in pairs or
groups.
> I've seen the listings in shops about compatiblilities, and
sometimes wonder
> where they got them from. You should probably do some reading. Get a
good
> book, like the Baensch Aquarium Atlas, Volume 1. Google fish you
might be
> interested in keeping and see what various sites have to say about
them. As
> you have just done, ask on thi list and others about specific fish
and how
> they can be best kept.
>
> With the information on hand, it would be difficult to come to a
conclusion
> about the damage done to the guppy. I'd lean toward the other male
guppy,
> but is sounds like a lot of damge to occur within an hour without
any help.
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16586 From: fiddlenero Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
Yes, that (bettas are aggressive towards fellow male bettas only) was
what I had gathered by reading about bettas before I added it to my
tank. Since my other fishes are largely easy going fishes, I thought
betta will get along fine. It seemed so for the first 4 days - betta
was always in its own world and was quite a bit shy... Always hiding
behind the plants or the rock.

I think the betta's attack on the guppy was an accident... It mistook
the fan-like tail of the guppy for another male betta.

Yes, it is possible that the dirty deed might also have been due to
the penguin tetra or the silver molly, both of which act slightly
territorial. But somehow the betta appears the obvious culprit. And it
happened fast, within a time window of 45 minutes.

Anyway, the betta seems content in the new small tank I got for it.

Thanks.

Subh

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Aggression in bettas is generally conspecific. What this means is that
> bettas will only be aggressive toward other bettas. And, this is not
a hard
> and fast rule. If you raise bettas together from the egg stage,
> aggressiveness I males is greatly reduced, not eliminated, but reduced,
> between those males raised together. (A case where, one might say, that
> familiarity breeds non-contempt.) While I'd not rule out the betta,
I'd not
> rule him in either. It may have been more than one fish doing the
dirty deed
> as well.
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16587 From: seleya8@aol.com Date: 2/20/2006
Subject: Re: Penguin Tetra and Dying Guppy...
In a message dated 2/20/2006 10:34:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
steve@... writes:

<<<Aggression in bettas is generally conspecific.>>>

While this is true, bettas' determination of what is exactly "conspecific"
often includes male guppies in tanks which house both. Betta splendens are
pretty notorious for not tolerating fish with flowing fins, especially ones of
similar size. There are certainly exceptions to the rule -- some splendens
being more laid back. Strictly speaking of my own experience, I cannot count how
many people I know who have learned this the hard way only to never lose
another fish the same way once the two species were separated.

Vicky




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16588 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
For you to have had him for years is pretty good in itself. Many
Bettas don't make it that long. The average lifespan for a Betta is
between 2 & 3 years; usually falling right in the middle at about 2
1/2 years. As such, he has lived a good long life for a Betta and it
may be time to put him down, even though its not always easy to do.
Being that old, his immune system may be weak just from age, not
unlike people when they get older, so he may not be able to respond
to medication. I have read reports of Bettas living for 5 years but
I find that extremely difficult to believe although again, like
people, there will always be an ocassional one living beyond the
timespan normally seen. I seldom have recommended this route and do
so reluctantly -- if anyone else on the Forum has a better
recommendation, with further hopes for survival, please feel free to
post. Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Crud.
> Well I treated with furan-2 yesterday afternoon. Meds are already
> mixed.
> The spots on his sides are much worse this evening and his swimming
is
> very difficult. He swims sideways. Should I just end this for
him?
> I think it's inevitable regarding the outcome and I hate to watch
him
> suffer. We've had for years.
> He still is trying to get to the side each time he sees me at the
tank.
> So far the tank has jungle fungus tabs, furan II & salt.
>
> Leslie
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Leslie, Note, this is not a fungus (even though it is
called "mouth
> > fungus"). It is a bacteria infection, and with it now being on
the
> > side of the fish is diagnosed as Columnaris, which will affect
both
> > the mouth and the body. This disease is fast acting and must be
> > treated ASAP, as it also attacks the gill membranes, which is why
> > he's breathing heavily. Treat with Furan II. If you can't find
it,
> > treat with Kanacyn (Kanamycin) -- and SALT. Potassium
Permanganate
> > (by Kordon - I believe) is also effective, but don't mix
> > medications. It most likely came in with the feeder fish. That
is
> > why it is always best to quarantine and treat (as necessary)
feeder
> > fish before adding them to your tank, as they can introduce
disease.
> > Next time isolate your feeder fish first. Ray
> >
\
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I added the salt and jungle fungus tabs. I notice now that
there is
> > > also white on one side of him. Still fungus?
> > >
> > > And what could have caused this?
> > >
> > > I added feeder fish 4 days ago then this started. Could they
have
> > > been the carriers?
> > >
> > > I hate buying feeders. I have half a mind to start breeding
them
> > > myself but it seems like a lot of work.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Leslie
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Sounds like mouth fungus -- it doesn't have to be "fuzzy",
its
> > really a
> > > > bacteria infection so will not have that "cottony" growth.
With
> > his
> > > > described condition, I wouldn't give too much hope, although
> > there's
> > > > always some hope as long as he's alive. I'd try salt (1 tbs
per
> > 5 gal.
> > > > to start) and a good medication effective against mouth
fungus.
> > Ray
> > > >
> >
\
> > --
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16589 From: hank voss Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: As such, he has lived a good long life for a Betta and it
may be time to put him down, even though its not always easy to do.

Hey Ray:
Im old and my imune system is not as good as it was --- so it it time for me to be put down? Hank









--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Crud.
> Well I treated with furan-2 yesterday afternoon. Meds are already
> mixed.
> The spots on his sides are much worse this evening and his swimming
is
> very difficult. He swims sideways. Should I just end this for
him?
> I think it's inevitable regarding the outcome and I hate to watch
him
> suffer. We've had for years.
> He still is trying to get to the side each time he sees me at the
tank.
> So far the tank has jungle fungus tabs, furan II & salt.
>
> Leslie
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Leslie, Note, this is not a fungus (even though it is
called "mouth
> > fungus"). It is a bacteria infection, and with it now being on
the
> > side of the fish is diagnosed as Columnaris, which will affect
both
> > the mouth and the body. This disease is fast acting and must be
> > treated ASAP, as it also attacks the gill membranes, which is why
> > he's breathing heavily. Treat with Furan II. If you can't find
it,
> > treat with Kanacyn (Kanamycin) -- and SALT. Potassium
Permanganate
> > (by Kordon - I believe) is also effective, but don't mix
> > medications. It most likely came in with the feeder fish. That
is
> > why it is always best to quarantine and treat (as necessary)
feeder
> > fish before adding them to your tank, as they can introduce
disease.
> > Next time isolate your feeder fish first. Ray
> >
\
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I added the salt and jungle fungus tabs. I notice now that
there is
> > > also white on one side of him. Still fungus?
> > >
> > > And what could have caused this?
> > >
> > > I added feeder fish 4 days ago then this started. Could they
have
> > > been the carriers?
> > >
> > > I hate buying feeders. I have half a mind to start breeding
them
> > > myself but it seems like a lot of work.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Leslie
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Sounds like mouth fungus -- it doesn't have to be "fuzzy",
its
> > really a
> > > > bacteria infection so will not have that "cottony" growth.
With
> > his
> > > > described condition, I wouldn't give too much hope, although
> > there's
> > > > always some hope as long as he's alive. I'd try salt (1 tbs
per
> > 5 gal.
> > > > to start) and a good medication effective against mouth
fungus.
> > Ray
> > > >
> >
\
> > --
> > >
> >
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16590 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Betta w/ white mouth...help!
Hank, Only if you have a bad case of mouth fungus and your lungs are
so terribly infected by Columnaris that you're not getting any better
with medications and are only suffering as a result. Is you side
turning white from Columnaris as well, and are you laying on the
floor unable to get up? Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: As such, he has
lived a good long life for a Betta and it
> may be time to put him down, even though its not always easy to
do.
>
> Hey Ray:
> Im old and my imune system is not as good as it was ---
so it it time for me to be put down? Hank
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > Crud.
> > Well I treated with furan-2 yesterday afternoon. Meds are already
> > mixed.
> > The spots on his sides are much worse this evening and his
swimming
> is
> > very difficult. He swims sideways. Should I just end this for
> him?
> > I think it's inevitable regarding the outcome and I hate to watch
> him
> > suffer. We've had for years.
> > He still is trying to get to the side each time he sees me at the
> tank.
> > So far the tank has jungle fungus tabs, furan II & salt.
> >
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Leslie, Note, this is not a fungus (even though it is
> called "mouth
> > > fungus"). It is a bacteria infection, and with it now being on
> the
> > > side of the fish is diagnosed as Columnaris, which will affect
> both
> > > the mouth and the body. This disease is fast acting and must
be
> > > treated ASAP, as it also attacks the gill membranes, which is
why
> > > he's breathing heavily. Treat with Furan II. If you can't
find
> it,
> > > treat with Kanacyn (Kanamycin) -- and SALT. Potassium
> Permanganate
> > > (by Kordon - I believe) is also effective, but don't mix
> > > medications. It most likely came in with the feeder fish.
That
> is
> > > why it is always best to quarantine and treat (as necessary)
> feeder
> > > fish before adding them to your tank, as they can introduce
> disease.
> > > Next time isolate your feeder fish first. Ray
> > >
>
\
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I added the salt and jungle fungus tabs. I notice now that
> there is
> > > > also white on one side of him. Still fungus?
> > > >
> > > > And what could have caused this?
> > > >
> > > > I added feeder fish 4 days ago then this started. Could they
> have
> > > > been the carriers?
> > > >
> > > > I hate buying feeders. I have half a mind to start breeding
> them
> > > > myself but it seems like a lot of work.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Leslie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > > > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Sounds like mouth fungus -- it doesn't have to be "fuzzy",
> its
> > > really a
> > > > > bacteria infection so will not have that "cottony" growth.
> With
> > > his
> > > > > described condition, I wouldn't give too much hope,
although
> > > there's
> > > > > always some hope as long as he's alive. I'd try salt (1
tbs
> per
> > > 5 gal.
> > > > > to start) and a good medication effective against mouth
> fungus.
> > > Ray
> > > > >
> > >
>
\
> > > --
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
United kingdom South africa
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Mail
> Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16591 From: raleighaquariumsociety Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Raleigh Aquarium Society Workshop - THIS WEEKEND!!!
Just wanted to let everyone know of the Raleigh Aquarium Society
Workshop this weekend. Check out details at
www.raleighaquariumsociety.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16592 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
The betta is swimming today and eating. But the white is still very
present, even more so today.

Also, my concern is parasites. There is something dangling off of his
mouth. I at first thought it to be the growth coming off as he gets
better but today it's another and very straight and dangly, and dark.

Should I treat for parasites as well or could this just be the floaties
coming off?

Thanks,
Leslie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16593 From: }<)))*> Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Deseases
Neon Tetra Disease is a genetic illness...
It's not curable and almost impossible to prevent...
These fish are born with it...
It just doesn't show up until they get stressed out...
Since your corys are getting fungi it's probably the condition of your water...
Have you had it tested?
And I suggest finding a new store to buy your neons at...
Where ever you're buying them have an infected strain


jerry young <jerry_jla@...> wrote:
I noticed that many of my neon tetras are infected with the incurable
neon tetra desease.
Please advise me how to prevent this.
Whats the cause?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16594 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Deseases
"Neon Tetra Disease is a genetic illness...", Source please.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of }<)))*>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 1:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Deseases

Neon Tetra Disease is a genetic illness...
It's not curable and almost impossible to prevent...
These fish are born with it...
It just doesn't show up until they get stressed out...
Since your corys are getting fungi it's probably the condition of your
water...
Have you had it tested?
And I suggest finding a new store to buy your neons at...
Where ever you're buying them have an infected strain


jerry young <jerry_jla@...> wrote:
I noticed that many of my neon tetras are infected with the incurable
neon tetra desease.
Please advise me how to prevent this.
Whats the cause?




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16595 From: }<)))*> Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Deseases
Fish breeder... The parasite is transmited when they spawn... You can get them from one strain and they all show symptoms when unders stress... Get them from another strain and none will show symptoms... Test it out... However... To the person that initially asked NTD question... There is also a "false neon disease" which has the same symptoms and is curable and is bacterial not parasitic... http://www.fishbase.org/Diseases/DiseasesSummary2.cfm?discode=728

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: "Neon Tetra Disease is a genetic illness...", Source please.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of }<)))*>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 1:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Deseases

Neon Tetra Disease is a genetic illness...
It's not curable and almost impossible to prevent...
These fish are born with it...
It just doesn't show up until they get stressed out...
Since your corys are getting fungi it's probably the condition of your
water...
Have you had it tested?
And I suggest finding a new store to buy your neons at...
Where ever you're buying them have an infected strain


jerry young <jerry_jla@...> wrote:
I noticed that many of my neon tetras are infected with the incurable
neon tetra desease.
Please advise me how to prevent this.
Whats the cause?




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16596 From: Patrick Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Deseases
AIDS is also spread from parent to child, but is not genetic. I read once
that the bacteria that causes NTD was found, and antibiotics have proven to
be partially effective for treatment. This is the first I have heard of a
second NTD. It must be a new discovery...

Patrick

----- Original Message -----

Fish breeder... The parasite is transmited when they spawn... You can get
them from one strain and they all show symptoms when unders stress... Get
them from another strain and none will show symptoms... Test it out...
However... To the person that initially asked NTD question... There is also
a "false neon disease" which has the same symptoms and is curable and is
bacterial not parasitic...
http://www.fishbase.org/Diseases/DiseasesSummary2.cfm?discode=728
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16597 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Glad to hear he is swimming and eating today. Going by your
description of him yesterday, the outcome seemed inevitable as you
said, and he wasn't responding to the medication of choice that you
had already treated him with the day before. Not actually seeing the
fish myself, but going by your resignation of not continuing his
suffering it did seem to be the best thing for him at the time if he
were that bad off. Its not the purpose of this Forum to advise such
recommendations, but no hobbyist likes to see a fish suffer, and only
you could be the best judge of that. If however, the white is
spreading it may just be a matter of time; you haven't said just how
many years you've had him. A sign of improvement might be if his
breathing is better. While again, I can't see the fish (unless you
want to post a pic), I would not be too concerned with parasites as
it sounds like the piece dangling off his mouth might in fact be part
of the skin of his lip, damaged from the mouth fungus bacteria. This
fast moving bacteria can eat away the whole mouth area if not caught
in time. If you've decided on trying to save him, which it now
appears you have, make sure you have no carbon it the filter to
enable the medication to be as effective as it possibly can and keep
a careful watch. I'm not familiar with "floaties" so cannot comment
on that. For any better diagnosis, a photo would be needed.
Anything else would be speculation, although the distinct possibility
of mouth damage is real. Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> The betta is swimming today and eating. But the white is still very
> present, even more so today.
>
> Also, my concern is parasites. There is something dangling off of
his
> mouth. I at first thought it to be the growth coming off as he gets
> better but today it's another and very straight and dangly, and
dark.
>
> Should I treat for parasites as well or could this just be the
floaties
> coming off?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16598 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/22/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Ray,
When I wrote "floaties," I had you in mind. =)

I did almost put the guy down. I absolutely did not think he would make
it through that night. But he did so I am glad I gave him that chance.
We have had him about 2 years now. He's always been sickly.

The white in his mouth is still very present, as is that on his side
that appears to be coming out of his gills.
I don't think I could get a good picture of this. The water is green
with treatment and he hovers agains the back of the tank with the
infected side away from me. I will play with the camera today though
and see what I can get. It has an underwater setting that has worked
well on my other tank.

I appreciate your honesty regarding putting him down. I shared your
opinion and still do if he looks as though he will not get through this.


I might post pictures later. Thanks again.

Leslie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 11:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?


Glad to hear he is swimming and eating today. Going by your
description of him yesterday, the outcome seemed inevitable as you
said, and he wasn't responding to the medication of choice that you
had already treated him with the day before. Not actually seeing the
fish myself, but going by your resignation of not continuing his
suffering it did seem to be the best thing for him at the time if he
were that bad off. Its not the purpose of this Forum to advise such
recommendations, but no hobbyist likes to see a fish suffer, and only
you could be the best judge of that. If however, the white is
spreading it may just be a matter of time; you haven't said just how
many years you've had him. A sign of improvement might be if his
breathing is better. While again, I can't see the fish (unless you
want to post a pic), I would not be too concerned with parasites as
it sounds like the piece dangling off his mouth might in fact be part
of the skin of his lip, damaged from the mouth fungus bacteria. This
fast moving bacteria can eat away the whole mouth area if not caught
in time. If you've decided on trying to save him, which it now
appears you have, make sure you have no carbon it the filter to
enable the medication to be as effective as it possibly can and keep
a careful watch. I'm not familiar with "floaties" so cannot comment
on that. For any better diagnosis, a photo would be needed.
Anything else would be speculation, although the distinct possibility
of mouth damage is real. Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> The betta is swimming today and eating. But the white is still very
> present, even more so today.
>
> Also, my concern is parasites. There is something dangling off of
his
> mouth. I at first thought it to be the growth coming off as he gets
> better but today it's another and very straight and dangly, and
dark.
>
> Should I treat for parasites as well or could this just be the
floaties
> coming off?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16599 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/22/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Leslie, I gather then that this (floaties) is a compliment ??
(lol). That still doesn't tell me anything as I'm not exactly sure
what you mean. Two years is not really a terribly long time for a
Betta; hope at least that his breathing has improved. While usually
not recommended (especially with other types of medications), you
could try increasing the dosage of the Furan II, which you need to
administer every other day anyway and which would not be harmful. It
often offers some benefit, as usually some of the medication is
neutralized from any organics in the tank. It this stage, it doesn't
appear as if there's too much to lose anyway and is certainly worth a
try, since it can't hurt. Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
> When I wrote "floaties," I had you in mind. =)
>
> I did almost put the guy down. I absolutely did not think he would
make
> it through that night. But he did so I am glad I gave him that
chance.
> We have had him about 2 years now. He's always been sickly.
>
> The white in his mouth is still very present, as is that on his
side
> that appears to be coming out of his gills.
> I don't think I could get a good picture of this. The water is
green
> with treatment and he hovers agains the back of the tank with the
> infected side away from me. I will play with the camera today
though
> and see what I can get. It has an underwater setting that has
worked
> well on my other tank.
>
> I appreciate your honesty regarding putting him down. I shared your
> opinion and still do if he looks as though he will not get through
this.
>
>
> I might post pictures later. Thanks again.
>
> Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
> _____
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>
> * Visit your group "AquaticLife
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife> " on the web.
>
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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subject=Unsubscribe>
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> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
>
> _____
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16600 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/22/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
By "floaties" I think I was talking about the stuff hanging on his
mouth...it's stuck to his mouth and floating upward like a helium
balloon would in your hand.
And I thought of you because it was such a vague description and
completely not technical, I know you just love that type of thing as you
alway make a reference to stuff like that in quotes, just as you did
"floaties." =) A rounded compliment, yes.

My camera doesn't like the batteries I put in it so I can't get a
picture. I will add some more furan but it says to do a 25% water
change after the second day, should I do that first then add more?

Thanks again.
Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 1:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?


Leslie, I gather then that this (floaties) is a compliment ??
(lol). That still doesn't tell me anything as I'm not exactly sure
what you mean. Two years is not really a terribly long time for a
Betta; hope at least that his breathing has improved. While usually
not recommended (especially with other types of medications), you
could try increasing the dosage of the Furan II, which you need to
administer every other day anyway and which would not be harmful. It
often offers some benefit, as usually some of the medication is
neutralized from any organics in the tank. It this stage, it doesn't
appear as if there's too much to lose anyway and is certainly worth a
try, since it can't hurt. Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
> When I wrote "floaties," I had you in mind. =)
>
> I did almost put the guy down. I absolutely did not think he would
make
> it through that night. But he did so I am glad I gave him that
chance.
> We have had him about 2 years now. He's always been sickly.
>
> The white in his mouth is still very present, as is that on his
side
> that appears to be coming out of his gills.
> I don't think I could get a good picture of this. The water is
green
> with treatment and he hovers agains the back of the tank with the
> infected side away from me. I will play with the camera today
though
> and see what I can get. It has an underwater setting that has
worked
> well on my other tank.
>
> I appreciate your honesty regarding putting him down. I shared your
> opinion and still do if he looks as though he will not get through
this.
>
>
> I might post pictures later. Thanks again.
>
> Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
> _____
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>
> * Visit your group "AquaticLife
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife> " on the web.
>
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?
subject=Unsubscribe>
>
>
> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
>
> _____
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16601 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 2/22/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Yes, do the 25% water change first, as recommended -- Although I remember the
directions recommending a water change, I wasn't sure at what point in the
treatment it should be done. Is he breathing any better? Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16602 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 2/22/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?
Yes he is breathing better. I forgot to mention that in my last
reponse.
I don't think his breathing is at all labored right now. =)
Leslie

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sevenspringss@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 1:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Bettas white mouth...parasite?



Yes, do the 25% water change first, as recommended -- Although I
remember the
directions recommending a water change, I wasn't sure at what point in
the
treatment it should be done. Is he breathing any better? Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16603 From: bigter4 Date: 2/23/2006
Subject: Filter issue ( whisper)
Hello Gang, sorry I have been away so long...been busy at work. OKAY
new problem that I need advice. I believe that the Tetra Whisper filter
is on its way out. Water has not been in the best shape lately. Levels
are fine.. no changes or sickness, just the filter is not doing its
job. NOW... I have the filter for a 10-15 gal tank in this one ( this
one is a 15 gal) Would it ba bad to put a bigger filter , like one for
20 gal and up in there? I have also had some issues with the motor
strating back up after a power outage or when I turn it off for water
changes.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16604 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: Can damaged snail shells heal?
Several weeks ago I removed the ugf from my snail tank and replaced it with a filter than hangs on the side. At some point I overfed the snails, the water got nasty, etc. and I had to replace most of the water. That being said, I did something horrible wrong and the whole system was goofed up and has to re-cycle now.

Some of the snails have areas on the surface of their shells that seem to be deteriorating. I'm wondering what could be causing this:

1. The snails constantly eat algae off one another. Can this damage the shells?

2. Could this be from low levels of nitrite in the water? The tank is almost cycled again, and I expect to see the nitrites gone soon.

3. Is it a calcium deficiancy? The ph is slightly alkaline, and I have calcium supplement powder, but it can cloud the water if I add even a small bit too much. I feed them algae disks and sometimes spinach which both have calcium. how much do they need? I also have crushed shells and coral in the tank.

4. The snails seem to be okay and are reproducing like crazy, and I am wondering if their shells can heal and if there is anything in particular I should do.

Thanks!
Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16605 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: will bullheads eat smaller fish?
I have a 55 gal planted tank with 2 comets, 2 bluegills, and 2 bullheads. One of the bullheads is very small (a baby) and the other was larger to start with, but suddenly had a growth spurt and is now several inches (it is probably at least 4-5 times larger than the baby). The bullheads are very docile and enjoy each other's company (the little one always hangs around the big one), but I am worried that the bigger one might eventually eat the little one. Are bullheads known to do this, or are they more scavengers than predators?
Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16606 From: MIke Schornak Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: Re: Filter issue ( whisper)
I'm certainly no expert but I have a 15-20 gallon filter in a 10 gallon tank and I have no problems. That's just me but I'm sure others have good advice.

Mike

bigter4 <bigter4@...> wrote:
Hello Gang, sorry I have been away so long...been busy at work. OKAY
new problem that I need advice. I believe that the Tetra Whisper filter
is on its way out. Water has not been in the best shape lately. Levels
are fine.. no changes or sickness, just the filter is not doing its
job. NOW... I have the filter for a 10-15 gal tank in this one ( this
one is a 15 gal) Would it ba bad to put a bigger filter , like one for
20 gal and up in there? I have also had some issues with the motor
strating back up after a power outage or when I turn it off for water
changes.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16607 From: harry perry Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: Re: Filter issue ( whisper)/All my tanks
I use Whispers in all my tanks. I also overfilter all my tanks. What I do is clean the filter and use a baby bottle brush to clean out the impeller chamber and also clean the impeller itself. It's a simple magnetic system.

Harry

MIke Schornak <dragonman_999@...> wrote: I'm certainly no expert but I have a 15-20 gallon filter in a 10 gallon tank and I have no problems. That's just me but I'm sure others have good advice.

Mike

bigter4 <bigter4@...> wrote:
Hello Gang, sorry I have been away so long...been busy at work. OKAY
new problem that I need advice. I believe that the Tetra Whisper filter
is on its way out. Water has not been in the best shape lately. Levels
are fine.. no changes or sickness, just the filter is not doing its
job. NOW... I have the filter for a 10-15 gal tank in this one ( this
one is a 15 gal) Would it ba bad to put a bigger filter , like one for
20 gal and up in there? I have also had some issues with the motor
strating back up after a power outage or when I turn it off for water
changes.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16608 From: wendie Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: Re: Filter issue ( whisper)
Actually for some types of fish it's better to have a slightly stronger
filter in the tank.
I have mine slightly stronger than necessary.
Wendie
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of MIke Schornak
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 6:52 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Filter issue ( whisper)


I'm certainly no expert but I have a 15-20 gallon filter in a 10 gallon
tank and I have no problems. That's just me but I'm sure others have good
advice.

Mike

bigter4 <bigter4@...> wrote:
Hello Gang, sorry I have been away so long...been busy at work. OKAY
new problem that I need advice. I believe that the Tetra Whisper filter
is on its way out. Water has not been in the best shape lately. Levels
are fine.. no changes or sickness, just the filter is not doing its
job. NOW... I have the filter for a 10-15 gal tank in this one ( this
one is a 15 gal) Would it ba bad to put a bigger filter , like one for
20 gal and up in there? I have also had some issues with the motor
strating back up after a power outage or when I turn it off for water
changes.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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kingdom South africa

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16609 From: KCronan@aol.com Date: 2/24/2006
Subject: Re: Can damaged snail shells heal?
Emily, I don't know what kind of snails you have but this website,
_www.applesnail.net_ (http://www.applesnail.net) , is great and my answer some of your
questions.
Deanna in GA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16610 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/25/2006
Subject: Re: Deseases
Finally had a chance to look this up. Neon tetra disease is not genetic in
nature, it is caused by an organism known as _Pleistophora
hyphessobryconis_. This little critter is a Microsporidea, and there is no
known cure for fit in fishes. It affects other fish as well as neons, but
neons are the fish in which it was discovered and is often fatal. Other fish
in which the critter has been found include other tetras, barbs, angelfish
and rasboras. You can try to limit the disease by removing affected fish,
especially before they are found dying and/or cannibalized. Cleaning of the
gravel helps to remove any spores that may have collected. Transmission of
the disease depends upon the pathogen spores being ingested by the new host.
Some success in the prevention of the disease has been note when using an
ultraviolet light at 35,000 microwatts per square centimeter on a continuous
basis. To prevent spread of the disease, any equipment that has come into
contact with the infected system or fishes needs to be disinfected with
sodium hypochlorite or other disinfectant agents. The above comes from
Aquariology Master Volume, The Science of Fish Health Management, Edited by
Dr. John B. Graztek and Janice R. Matthews, published by Tetra Press, 1992.
I Also found similar information in a fish disease book published by TFH,
but don't have it on hand to give the details, however I believe the title
we Textbook of Fish Health.

For those of you who may be interested, Aquariology was published and is
available either in the master volume cited above, or in several separate
volumes covering the various topics in the master volume.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of }<)))*>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 1:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Deseases

Neon Tetra Disease is a genetic illness...
It's not curable and almost impossible to prevent...
These fish are born with it...
It just doesn't show up until they get stressed out...
Since your corys are getting fungi it's probably the condition of your
water...
Have you had it tested?
And I suggest finding a new store to buy your neons at...
Where ever you're buying them have an infected strain


jerry young <jerry_jla@...> wrote:
I noticed that many of my neon tetras are infected with the incurable
neon tetra desease.
Please advise me how to prevent this.
Whats the cause?




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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16611 From: Steve Martinez Date: 2/25/2006
Subject: Hello and HELP
Hello Group

I am a new member and happy to be a fellow fish lover. I do have a
problem and I was hoping that someone could help. I recently moved up
from a 30 gallon fresh water tank to a 55 gallon fresh water tank.
After I filled up the 55 gallon tank the water was crystal clear. But
as the days went on the water kept getting cloudy. I have put in live
bacteria into the water as well as testing the ph levels....making
sure it was around 7.0 - 7.2. I even put in stree zyme. Now all of a
sudden my tank has this green cloudy glow to it. I was reading that it
might be alge. Is there anyway to get the alge gone without hurting
the fish?? The fish that are in the tank are 2 pleco's (which are
approx 8 inches long) 1 balla shark (which is about 8 inces long) and
about 5 really small fish. What can I do to get my tank clear again
and enjoyable. Please help

Thanks
Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16612 From: Philip Baird Date: 2/26/2006
Subject: Re: Hello and HELP
You are right on what it is.
The algea bloom is caused by phosphares wich come from the feeding.
To remove the phosphate, you will need to do water changes,
and check your filter to ensure that there is not alot of food waste.
I would start the w.c's at 50% the first time then smaller (about 25%) thereafter.
Double check your feeding...
Only feed what can be consumed in 5 minutes.
Also check what you are feeding.
All foods will have phosphates, try to find the food with the least.
Lightting can slso play a factor.
Try running the light no more than 12 hours, best to keep it under 10.
A timer will help keep this in order.


Steve Martinez <sdm1969@...> wrote: Hello Group

I am a new member and happy to be a fellow fish lover. I do have a
problem and I was hoping that someone could help. I recently moved up
from a 30 gallon fresh water tank to a 55 gallon fresh water tank.
After I filled up the 55 gallon tank the water was crystal clear. But
as the days went on the water kept getting cloudy. I have put in live
bacteria into the water as well as testing the ph levels....making
sure it was around 7.0 - 7.2. I even put in stree zyme. Now all of a
sudden my tank has this green cloudy glow to it. I was reading that it
might be alge. Is there anyway to get the alge gone without hurting
the fish?? The fish that are in the tank are 2 pleco's (which are
approx 8 inches long) 1 balla shark (which is about 8 inces long) and
about 5 really small fish. What can I do to get my tank clear again
and enjoyable. Please help

Thanks
Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16613 From: Steve Martinez Date: 2/26/2006
Subject: Re: Hello and HELP
Thank you for the advise

Steve

--- Philip Baird <luckybob611@...> wrote:

> You are right on what it is.
> The algea bloom is caused by phosphares wich come from the feeding.
> To remove the phosphate, you will need to do water changes,
> and check your filter to ensure that there is not alot of food waste.
> I would start the w.c's at 50% the first time then smaller (about 25%) thereafter.
> Double check your feeding...
> Only feed what can be consumed in 5 minutes.
> Also check what you are feeding.
> All foods will have phosphates, try to find the food with the least.
> Lightting can slso play a factor.
> Try running the light no more than 12 hours, best to keep it under 10.
> A timer will help keep this in order.
>
>
> Steve Martinez <sdm1969@...> wrote: Hello Group
>
> I am a new member and happy to be a fellow fish lover. I do have a
> problem and I was hoping that someone could help. I recently moved up
> from a 30 gallon fresh water tank to a 55 gallon fresh water tank.
> After I filled up the 55 gallon tank the water was crystal clear. But
> as the days went on the water kept getting cloudy. I have put in live
> bacteria into the water as well as testing the ph levels....making
> sure it was around 7.0 - 7.2. I even put in stree zyme. Now all of a
> sudden my tank has this green cloudy glow to it. I was reading that it
> might be alge. Is there anyway to get the alge gone without hurting
> the fish?? The fish that are in the tank are 2 pleco's (which are
> approx 8 inches long) 1 balla shark (which is about 8 inces long) and
> about 5 really small fish. What can I do to get my tank clear again
> and enjoyable. Please help
>
> Thanks
> Steve
>
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16614 From: Steve Martinez Date: 2/27/2006
Subject: Question
Has anyone ever used a product called Acurel F in the fish tanks???

I would like more info on this product if anyone knows anything about
it.

Thanks

Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16615 From: dvgorelov Date: 2/27/2006
Subject: Any advice on community tank, please?
Hello to all!

In Oct-Nov 05 I have started a 29G community tank. Right now I have
there 4 Pristella Tetras, 2 mistery snails, some MTS and live plants
(1 banana plant, 1 Cryptocorine, 1 Anubias, some Ludvigia, Hornwort
and Elodea).

I would like to have some small docile cichlids there along with some
other tetras (may be Cardinals?) and catfishes (some dwarf Corys?). I
was thinking about Cupid cichlids (Biotodoma cupido), Kribensis
(Pelvichromis pulcher) or Bolivian rams (M. altispinosa).

Could you give your oppinion on those three cichlids and their
compartibility with tetras, corys, etc? Or may be somebody had a good
experience with other nice dwarf (or just small) cichlids suitable
for the CT I am trying to build -- could you share your experience
here?

The setup I have besides the standard 29G 30" long glass tank itself
includes:
-Eheim Classic 2213 (says is good for upto 66G);
-150W Termo-Tech (Penn-Plax) heater;
-single 2xT5 tubes Coralife 65W fro FW and + regular single T12 with
6500K tube, on for ~9-10 hours;
-med-smmall (3-4mm) gravel, 3-4 small rocks, some driftwood;
-air pump (not used regularly);

Thanks
Dmitry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16616 From: harry perry Date: 2/27/2006
Subject: Look at this little gem.
Harry


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16617 From: harry perry Date: 2/27/2006
Subject: Re: Look at this little gem./Sorry
I fogot no attachments.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
Harry


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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16618 From: harryfisherman Date: 2/28/2006
Subject: Photos added.
I added an album called Harry's fish. In it is a picture of a pygmy
sunfish.

Harry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16619 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/28/2006
Subject: Re: Photos added.
Harry,
That little guy is really cute. Hadn't seen of them before.
Feather

harryfisherman <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
I added an album called Harry's fish. In it is a picture of a pygmy
sunfish.

Harry







---------------------------------





SHANNON LINGENFELTER


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16620 From: bigter4 Date: 3/1/2006
Subject: Re: Filter issue ( whisper)
-
thx mike


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, MIke Schornak <dragonman_999@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm certainly no expert but I have a 15-20 gallon filter in a 10
gallon tank and I have no problems. That's just me but I'm sure
others have good advice.
>
> Mike
>
> bigter4 <bigter4@...> wrote:
> Hello Gang, sorry I have been away so long...been busy at work.
OKAY
> new problem that I need advice. I believe that the Tetra Whisper
filter
> is on its way out. Water has not been in the best shape lately.
Levels
> are fine.. no changes or sickness, just the filter is not doing its
> job. NOW... I have the filter for a 10-15 gal tank in this one (
this
> one is a 15 gal) Would it ba bad to put a bigger filter , like one
for
> 20 gal and up in there? I have also had some issues with the motor
> strating back up after a power outage or when I turn it off for
water
> changes.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
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> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16621 From: bigter4 Date: 3/1/2006
Subject: Re: Filter issue ( whisper)/All my tanks
Good call with the toothbrush! I will try that. perhaps it is just
clogging.-


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> I use Whispers in all my tanks. I also overfilter all my tanks.
What I do is clean the filter and use a baby bottle brush to clean
out the impeller chamber and also clean the impeller itself. It's a
simple magnetic system.
>
> Harry
>
> MIke Schornak <dragonman_999@...> wrote: I'm certainly no
expert but I have a 15-20 gallon filter in a 10 gallon tank and I
have no problems. That's just me but I'm sure others have good advice.
>
> Mike
>
> bigter4 <bigter4@...> wrote:
> Hello Gang, sorry I have been away so long...been busy at work.
OKAY
> new problem that I need advice. I believe that the Tetra Whisper
filter
> is on its way out. Water has not been in the best shape lately.
Levels
> are fine.. no changes or sickness, just the filter is not doing
its
> job. NOW... I have the filter for a 10-15 gal tank in this one (
this
> one is a 15 gal) Would it ba bad to put a bigger filter , like one
for
> 20 gal and up in there? I have also had some issues with the motor
> strating back up after a power outage or when I turn it off for
water
> changes.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ���`�.��.><
((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�>
�.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�
((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�
((((><���`�.��.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
United kingdom South africa
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
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>
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> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
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> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
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>
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16622 From: Steve Martinez Date: 3/2/2006
Subject: acurel f question
Has anyone ever used a product called Acurel F in the fish tanks???

I would like more info on this product if anyone knows anything about
it.

Thanks

Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16623 From: shailendra Indulkar Date: 3/4/2006
Subject: Albino fish breeding
Hello,
A picture added in photo section of our group
wish to understand its breeding techniques.
ManyThanks,
indulkarshailu@...
India
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16624 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/4/2006
Subject: Aquarium Water vs. Water in the Wild
I'd like to start what I hope will be an interesting discussion about water.
This is sparked by an interesting article in the recent issue of "Copeia"
(2005, No. 4), "{Relationships Between Habitat Characteristics and Fish
Assemblages in Small Streams of Central Amazonia", by Fernando P. Mendonça,
William E. Magnusson, and Jansen Zuanon.

Those of you who have been around here a while may know that I read quite
widely, often delving into scientific publications, though I make no
pretense of being a scientist. "Copeia" is published four times a year by
the American Society of Ichthyologists and Herpetologists, and publishes
articles describing new species of fish, amphibians, and reptiles, as well
as studies based on these groups. The particular article referenced above is
a study that was carried out in Brazil, near the city of Manaus in a reserve
of 10,000 ha of non-flooded forest. That is about 36 square miles. Part of
the area drains into the Rio Negro and the other part drains into the
Amazon. The drainages are divided by a ridge that wanders through the
preserve.

We are not going to be talking about the study per se, but some of the water
parameters mentioned in the study and the fishes found to be living in the
study area.

The first thing I'd like to mention, that will, perhaps have some relevance
to the topic at hand is the flow of the various streams. The flow rate
varied considerably dependant on the portion of the stream being sampled.
Water flow was fast in some places and slow in others. The waters did not
have much in the way of suspended particles, but the stream beds were
variable, some portions covered with litter and other portions of rocky or
sandy composition. Sand and coarse litter made up the largest proportion of
the stream beds. The water was highly saturated in oxygen ranging from
5.45-9.42 mg/l. Water temperature ranged from 21.4^o C (70.52^o F) to 25.8^o
C (78.44^o F). It is important to consider water temperature in relation to
oxygen saturation because when water is warmer, it is less able to hold
oxygen. There are other factors as well that affect the ability of water to
hold oxygen. For some charts demonstrating the ability of water to hold
oxygen under certain circumstances see
http://water.usgs.gov/owq/FieldManual/Chapter6/6.2.4.pdf.

I bring this up because oxygen is not a normally measured parameter when one
is discussing water quality, and it is only measured as a last resort, if at
all. However, the amount of available oxygen in the water is of great
importance to living organisms in our aquariums. If there is not enough
oxygen, our fish are in trouble, as well may be other organisms living in
the tank. Different fish have different requirements. For example, fish that
are found in rapidly moving water (sucker mouthed catfish can serve as an
example) require higher amounts of available oxygen than do fish that reside
in more slowly moving water, or in lakes and ponds (gouramis can serve as an
example here). While a tank that is fine for the catfish is also fine for
the gouramis, so far as oxygen saturation is concerned, the gouramis will be
able to live with far less dissolved oxygen than the catfish, and a tank
suitable for the gouramis may not be suitable for a sucker mouthed catfish.

It would then behoove us to study the fish and their origins prior to
combining them with an eye toward oxygen requirements. Most tanks, however,
should have enough dissolved oxygen to keep most fish, and most people do
not see this as a consideration when choosing inhabitants for the tank. Keep
in mind, still using the above example, that sucker mouthed catfish are not
found in the same habitats as are gouramis. Thus, if I wish to keep a tank
that is heavy on gouramis, I would need to look at other species of catfish
if that is a mental requirement for my tank.

Now, let's get to the meat of the matter here. pH in these waters were found
to measure between 3.7 and 4.8. I can hear some of your gasps from here as
you read that last tidbit. This is not the first time I have read of such
low pH ranges in conjunction with the natural habitats of the fish we keep.
Quite often pH measurements, when mentioned, of the waters where fish are
found are quite lower than our expectations would lead us to believe are
safe for keeping fishes. Quite often we hear of people who are quite worried
when the pH of their tank falls much below 6.8-7.2. It would seem that this
concern is quite unwarranted, and the pH ranges stated in most hobbyist
literature is inaccurate and/or misleading. While there are fish that
require a higher pH, many livebearers, for instance, for many of the inland
South American fish that are found in many of our tanks, do not require a
very high pH to do well.

However, we are on the horns of a dilemma, because if we lower our pH to
match natural waters in the area from which our fish come, placing a fish
fresh from the LFS into this water will almost certainly backfire on us,
because the fish have been acclimated to a higher pH and placing them
directly into a lower pH can lead to pH shock and possibly death of the new
fish. They need to be acclimated to a lower pH as the current inhabitants of
the tank have been. This would mean an establishment of another tank to hold
new arrivals in (remember, we are supposed to be quarantining new fish any
way), and slowly lowering the pH in the holding tank until it approaches or
reaches the pH of the main tank.

What does this mean for us? Maybe nothing, maybe a whole lot. Fish are
fairly adaptable creatures. However that adaptation to water parameters we
keep them in vs. what they see in the wild may be enough so the fish just
survives, and does nothing more than that. Providing water parameters that
are closer to that they fish find in the wild may mean more colorful fish,
longer lived fish, fish that are more apt to breed, especially for those of
us who are interested in that aspect, and healthier fish.

The authors of this study collected a total of 49 species of fish during
their work. Not all of those were fish that are kept by aquarists, but some
are. One of the species found was _Callichthys callicthys_. This fish can be
found in the hobby albeit it is not one of the most popular fishes. Looking
this fish up in Fishbase (http://www.fishbase.org), a widely accepted
authoritative reference work, and we see the fish listed as being found in
waters with a pH range of 5.8-8.3. If you remember, at the start of this
piece, it was stated that the researchers found the pH to be between 3.7 and
4.8. Even if we are to presume that the fish was found in an area that
measured pH 4.8, that is much lower than the stated lowest pH in Fishbase.
Without going though the 40+ references listed, and perhaps those that the
references themselves relied upon, it is impossible to determine where this
pH range came from and how it was measured. The report cited here does not
list the pH of the locality where the fish was found so, it cannot be stated
with any accuracy in what pH the fish was found.

(I hope the format holds in a readable form.)

Other fishes found that may be found in your LFS include:
_Carnegiella strigata_ Marbled hatchetfish Higher pH
stated in Fishbase
_Batrochoglanis raninus_ was _Pseudopimelodus raninus_ Higher pH
stated in Fishbase
_Hypselecara coryphaenoides_ Higher pH
stated in Fishbase
_Crenicichla lenticulata_ Higher pH
stated in Fishbase
_Rineloricaria heteroptera_ Higher pH
stated in Fishbase
_Steatogenys duidae_ No pH given
_Sternopygus macrurus_ Longtail knifefish Higher pH stated in
Fishbase
_Pyrrhulina cf. laeta_ maybe Halfbanded pyrrhulina Higher pH
stated in Fishbase*
_Copella nigrofasciata_ Higher pH stated in
Fishbase
_Apistogramma_ sp. Higher pH
stated in Fishbase**
_Nannostomus marginatus_ Dwarf pencilfish Higher pH
stated in Fishbase
_Aequidens pallidus_ Doublespot acara Much higher
pH stated in Fishbase
_Symbranchus_ sp. ***
_Ancistrus aff. hoplogenys_ Much higher
pH stated in Fishbase****
_Crenuchus spilurus_ Sailfin tetra Higher pH
stated in Fishbase
_Erythrinus erythrinus_ Higher pH stated in
Fishbase
_Pyrrhulina cf. brevis_ Higher pH
stated in Fishbase*
_Rivulus compressus_ No pH given.
_Poecilocharax weitzmani_ Black morpho tetra Higher pH
stated in Fishbase
_Callichthys callichthys_ Cascarudo Higher pH
stated in Fisbase


*Listing from Fishbase is for _Pyrrhulina laeta_ Halfbanded pyrrhulina. The
cf. in the name given means that the fish is like the particular species
mentioned, but may be a different species. Also _Pyrrhulina cf. brevis_.
**This is an unidentified Apisto. In readings of Apistos in the wild, a much
lower pH is mentioned than in the literature otherwise. Looking through the
listings of Apistos in Fishbase, I noted pH ranges that are sometimes much
higher than I have seen in those articles. In my own experience in keeping
Apistos, I have generally found a lower pH is necessary to keep them in good
shape, and have kept them successfully kept them on a pH of 5 or lower.
***All listings of this species in Fishbase show it as being a
freshwater/brackish fish. No pH was given for any of the listed species.
Generally fish that are listed as freshwater/brackish need to spend some
time in one or the other. An example may be a fish that breeds in brackish
water, but spends much of its life in freshwater. I've listed it here to
spur those of you who may have one of these eels to do further research on
the particular species you have to better determine its needs. One the
whole, I'd say that the fish is listed as being found in much higher pH tan
it was in this study.
****Listed since the aff. Infers a relationship to the named species.

It can be noted that many of the references listed on the page of the fish
description are commonly used by hobbyists.

Another comment worth noting is the time of the year that the readings in
the study were taken--during the dry season, where pH may be expected to
lower from what they would be at the end of the rainy season.

Anyone have any comments or additions?

\\Steve//
"It is much easier to suggest solutions when you don't know too
much about the problem." - Malcolm Forbes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16625 From: hank voss Date: 3/4/2006
Subject: Re: Albino fish breeding
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "shailendra Indulkar"
<indulkarshailu@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> A picture added in photo section of our group
> wish to understand its breeding techniques.
> ManyThanks,
> indulkarshailu@...
> India
>
From the picture its hard to tell what it is but it looks like a
blind cave fish (Astyanax mexicanus) a side shot would be better.A
easy fish to breed Females are larger than males.Females in good
shape look like they swallowed a marble they usually always are full
of eggs.Males are very flat bellied.They are avid egg eaters though
and produce a large ammount of eggs at a spawning.
I used to breed mine over a bed of marbles so they could not get
at the eggs but you could use screening or corse pebbles.Place
female in tank and next day put in 1-2 males they usually spawn
within 24 hrs.If not change some of the water and that usually
triggers them to spawn. Temp.around 76F.You will get a large amount
os unfertilized eggs but dont worry you still will have many
young.Eggs will hatch around 36 hrs. Feed young infusoria or
something like liqidfry for egglayers they grow pretty fast.Watch
out for the few larger fry(which always occur)because they will
probably start eating their brothers ans sisters.After 3-4 days fed
brine shrimp from here on in their growth is rapid.You can easally
get 200 fry.Caution these fish are fin nippers.I hope this is some
help to you.If you need more info.post again.

Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16626 From: hank voss Date: 3/4/2006
Subject: Re: Albino fish breeding
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "shailendra Indulkar"
<indulkarshailu@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> A picture added in photo section of our group
> wish to understand its breeding techniques.
> ManyThanks,
> indulkarshailu@...
> India
>
PS:
Blind Caves are very prone to get "ich"

Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16627 From: Sandy Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: tropical tank ph question
I wrote in a few weeks back about problems with my 10 gallon freshwater tank. I now have tested the water from the tap before adding. Everything looks good and the ph and alkalinity look in the middle range.

I made a 20% water change and after that did the test on the water. Everything looks pretty good, the ammonia was a small amount above okay. But the ph and alkalinity were way down almost below the low.

The question I hoped to ask is should I add ph up to the tank. I know I have read it is best to leave it and work with what can live in rather than change. The only thing is that I wonder if there is a problem. I am not sure if I ever asked this question on this list. When I first started the tank over a year ago. I did not realize at the time that using water from a water softener was not something to do. After finding that out, I started using water from the regular tap. I have been doing that for about 2 or 3 months now. Could the tank still be trying to adjust from that mistake I made?

I do also add a small amount of aquarium salt to the tank each time. I also now am using only novaqua and no ammoqel plus unless needed.

Thank you again for your generous help, Sandy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16628 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: Re: tropical tank ph question
Sandy,

First, let's get some numbers from those tests you have done. OK doesn't
really man anything.

Second, refresh me on the fish you have in that tank. I can recall the
gourami, and I think something about barbs or tetras, but I'm not sure.

Also, let me refer you to the post I made yesterday around noon, titled
Aquarium Water vs. Water in the Wild.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 10:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tropical tank ph question

I wrote in a few weeks back about problems with my 10 gallon freshwater
tank. I now have tested the water from the tap before adding. Everything
looks good and the ph and alkalinity look in the middle range.

I made a 20% water change and after that did the test on the water.
Everything looks pretty good, the ammonia was a small amount above okay. But
the ph and alkalinity were way down almost below the low.

The question I hoped to ask is should I add ph up to the tank. I know I
have read it is best to leave it and work with what can live in rather than
change. The only thing is that I wonder if there is a problem. I am not sure
if I ever asked this question on this list. When I first started the tank
over a year ago. I did not realize at the time that using water from a water
softener was not something to do. After finding that out, I started using
water from the regular tap. I have been doing that for about 2 or 3 months
now. Could the tank still be trying to adjust from that mistake I made?

I do also add a small amount of aquarium salt to the tank each time. I
also now am using only novaqua and no ammoqel plus unless needed.

Thank you again for your generous help, Sandy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16629 From: Sandy Kay Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: tropical tank ph question
Steve, I answered your reply to this message to your email address. Thank
you, Sandy



Sandy,

First, let's get some numbers from those tests you have done. OK doesn't
really man anything.

Second, refresh me on the fish you have in that tank. I can recall the
gourami, and I think something about barbs or tetras, but I'm not sure.




Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 11:38:48 -0500
From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
Subject: RE: tropical tank ph question

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16630 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results
I am also replying this to the list, because I think that everyone should
see this discussion. It may help them as well.

Alkalinity has two meanings. We speak of the alkalinity of the water when it
has a pH above 7.0. Also, alkalinity refers to the buffering capacity of the
water, which is very different from pH. It is the second we should be
concerned about here. If water has an alkalinity of 0, it is very unstable
so far as pH is concerned. It would not take much of a change to cause the
pH to crash. If your water out of the tap is measuring 0 alkalinity, I'd be
worried about the state of the piping in your home, particularly if they are
metal pipes, though the water people are probably adding chemicals to
prevent their pipes from corroding.

I'm not sure how to cure this, and I am in the process of rearranging my
library so I'm not even sure of the location of the reference that could
tell me off hand. I hope someone can chime in here to fill you I on this.

With the ammonia and nitrite readings, it looks as though your tank is still
cycling, or the biomass is overloading the bacterial population that
processes nitrogenous wastes. You are going to need to get this stabilized
before you can even think about adding anything to the tank, though I would
not advise it even after the stabilization. The guppy you have would be
happier in water of a higher pH since their range includes waters that have
higher pH and also brackish waters. The upsidedown cat is probably
_Synodontis nigriventris_ and hails from the Congo (Zaire) where waters are
considerably more soft and of lower pH than those of Lake Tanganyika, where
other species of _Synodontis_ can be found. This is important to note, since
many people presume all African fishes prefer hard alkaline water, based on
reports of the African cichlids from the rift lakes of Africa. Much of the
water in Africa is not of the hard and alkaline variety, but softer and
lower in pH, much like the habitat of many South American fish.

I'd say that you are pushing the limits of your tank for population. Your
upsidedown cat will reach near 4", if it is the fish I think it is. You
don't tell us what kind of fish your algae eater is, so one can presume a
larger size for that one as well. When full grown, the neons should go to
about 1.5 inches and the tiger barbs (not barb tetras) will go about 3.25
inches (plus, they are a deeper bodied fish). Even if you were to follow the
old saw of 1 inch of fish per gallon of water, you are already overcrowded,
and that rule usually leads to over crowding in and of itself.

If you want more fish, get another, larger tank. If you want more fish and
only have room for one tank, get the biggest tank you can find that will fit
into the space you have. The larger the tank, the more likely it is to
absorb any missteps on your part. It will also be able to support more fish.
As alluded to in a prior sentence, it is more stable, both in maintaining a
water temperature, as well as maintaining other water parameters. Hang onto
the 10, though, it will come in handy as a quarantine tank for new or sick
fish.

I am glad that you found the message "Aquarium Water vs. Water in the Wild"
useful. I hope others will read it and comment on it as well. I do think it
is a subject that should be explored more.

\\Steve//


________________________________

From: Sandy Kay [mailto:knightwriter101@...]
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 12:51 PM
To: steve@...
Subject: aquatic member ph test results


the alkalinity was 0, the nitrite was 0.5, the ammonia was
0.25, the ph is 6.4, the hardness was 125, the nitrate is 20.

I hope this is the information you want. I have 3 neon tetras, 3
tiger barb tetras, 1 algae eater, 1 female guppy, 1 upside down cat. When
things get back to normal, I want to add 1 gourmi. Do you think this is all
I should have in a 10 gallon tank?

I sent you another email thank you for the article on water. It was
excellent. I still want to read again.

The tap water alkalinity was in the ideal range, the ph was mid
range, there was no ammonia.

Thank you very much for your help, Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16631 From: Sandy Kay Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results ~ sorry for being long from Sandy
The alkalinity reading for our tap water is 120 using the Mardel Test kit.
The ph is 7.2 and the hardness is 120.

I do have a 55 gallon and used to have it going. But I do not have a place
to set it up in our larger new house yet. So hense the reason for having a
10. It is all the room I have and I love a fish tank going.

I do not know a lot about pipes and water. So really appreciate your helping
me out. I am learning many new things.

Evidently I was trying to keep too many fish so that will have to change. I
am still not sure what to do with the ph problem.

Should I add ph plus as the Mardel test kit recommends? It also says to add
buffer up, not sure if I should do that either.

I think maybe where some of the problem started is at the start. I did not
know water going through a water softener you were not supposed to use. I
did use if for a few months before realizing the mistake I had made. So now
am using the tap water with the readings I mentioned for about 2 or 3 months
What I wonder is if the tank has not been able to rebound from the soft
water. I do make a 20% water change every week or week and a half.

Sandy

-------Original Message-------

From: Steve Szabo
Date: 03/05/06 13:38:10
To: 'Sandy Kay'; Aquatic Life
Subject: RE: aquatic member ph test results

I am also replying this to the list, because I think that everyone should
see this discussion. It may help them as well.

Alkalinity has two meanings. We speak of the alkalinity of the water when it
has a pH above 7.0. Also, alkalinity refers to the buffering capacity of the
water, which is very different from pH. It is the second we should be
concerned about here. If water has an alkalinity of 0, it is very unstable
so far as pH is concerned. It would not take much of a change to cause the
pH to crash. If your water out of the tap is measuring 0 alkalinity, I'd be
worried about the state of the piping in your home, particularly if they are
metal pipes, though the water people are probably adding chemicals to
prevent their pipes from corroding.

I'm not sure how to cure this, and I am in the process of rearranging my
library so I'm not even sure of the location of the reference that could
tell me off hand. I hope someone can chime in here to fill you I on this.

With the ammonia and nitrite readings, it looks as though your tank is still
cycling, or the biomass is overloading the bacterial population that
processes nitrogenous wastes. You are going to need to get this stabilized
before you can even think about adding anything to the tank, though I would
not advise it even after the stabilization. The guppy you have would be
happier in water of a higher pH since their range includes waters that have
higher pH and also brackish waters. The upsidedown cat is probably
_Synodontis nigriventris_ and hails from the Congo (Zaire) where waters are
considerably more soft and of lower pH than those of Lake Tanganyika, where
other species of _Synodontis_ can be found. This is important to note, since
many people presume all African fishes prefer hard alkaline water, based on
reports of the African cichlids from the rift lakes of Africa. Much of the
water in Africa is not of the hard and alkaline variety, but softer and
lower in pH, much like the habitat of many South American fish.

I'd say that you are pushing the limits of your tank for population. Your
upsidedown cat will reach near 4", if it is the fish I think it is. You
don't tell us what kind of fish your algae eater is, so one can presume a
larger size for that one as well. When full grown, the neons should go to
about 1.5 inches and the tiger barbs (not barb tetras) will go about 3.25
inches (plus, they are a deeper bodied fish). Even if you were to follow the
old saw of 1 inch of fish per gallon of water, you are already overcrowded,
and that rule usually leads to over crowding in and of itself.

If you want more fish, get another, larger tank. If you want more fish and
only have room for one tank, get the biggest tank you can find that will fit
into the space you have. The larger the tank, the more likely it is to
absorb any missteps on your part. It will also be able to support more fish.
As alluded to in a prior sentence, it is more stable, both in maintaining a
water temperature, as well as maintaining other water parameters. Hang onto
the 10, though, it will come in handy as a quarantine tank for new or sick
fish.

\\Steve//


________________________________

From: Sandy Kay [mailto:knightwriter101@...]
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 12:51 PM
To: steve@...
Subject: aquatic member ph test results


the alkalinity was 0, the nitrite was 0.5, the ammonia was
0.25, the ph is 6.4, the hardness was 125, the nitrate is 20.

I hope this is the information you want. I have 3 neon tetras, 3
tiger barb tetras, 1 algae eater, 1 female guppy, 1 upside down cat. When
things get back to normal, I want to add 1 gourmi. Do you think this is all
I should have in a 10 gallon tank?

I sent you another email thank you for the article on water. It was
excellent. I still want to read again.

The tap water alkalinity was in the ideal range, the ph was mid
range, there was no ammonia.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16632 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/5/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results ~ sorry for being long from Sandy
Sandy,

Much better alkalinity reading out of the tap.

Let' see, looking back, I see your current tank pH is 6.4. Out of the tap it
is 7.2. Measured in the tank, the alkalinity is 0 and out of the tap it is
120.

We now need to get the water back into shape (this is one reason why it is
so dangerous to mess with water chemistry). We have a 0.8 difference in the
pH, so we should work on this, then the other will come into line as well, I
would suspect. I am thinking that if you do water changes daily of about 1
gallon per change, we should start to see things get back into line before
too long. Do not add any conditioner to the water except one that acts only
on the chlorine/chloramine that is in your water supply. Check your pH each
day prior to the water change. We would hope to see it rising after a day or
two of water changes. Once the pH starts to rise, check the alkalinity, it
should be rising also.

We are going to be doing a balancing act here for a while, as we don't want
the pH to come up too rapidly, as this may adversely affect the fish. That
is why we are going to be checking the pH daily prior to doing the water
change. If it rises more than 0.1 in a day, don't change the water that day,
but wait and check the pH the next day. If it remains the same for two days,
we have pretty much started winning the battle, and you can slow down on the
water changes and the tank should stabilize.

The fish should survive with the higher pH, even though they would prefer
another level. The pH of your tank will probably remain lower than that
coming from the tap, but that is to be expected. It is caused by the
biological processes happening in the tank. Once things have stabilized, do
a 20% water change each week.

You may also wish to start looking at fish that enjoy a higher pH than the
fish you have for when the time comes to move to a larger tank, or there is
room in your current tank.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: aquatic member ph test results ~ sorry for being
long from Sandy

The alkalinity reading for our tap water is 120 using the Mardel Test kit.
The ph is 7.2 and the hardness is 120. I do have a 55 gallon and used to
have it going. But I do not have a place
to set it up in our larger new house yet. So hense the reason for having a
10. It is all the room I have and I love a fish tank going. I do not know
a lot about pipes and water. So really appreciate your helping
me out. I am learning many new things. Evidently I was trying to keep too
many fish so that will have to change. I
am still not sure what to do with the ph problem. Should I add ph plus as
the Mardel test kit recommends? It also says to add
buffer up, not sure if I should do that either. I think maybe where some of
the problem started is at the start. I did not
know water going through a water softener you were not supposed to use. I
did use if for a few months before realizing the mistake I had made. So now
am using the tap water with the readings I mentioned for about 2 or 3 months
What I wonder is if the tank has not been able to rebound from the soft
water. I do make a 20% water change every week or week and a half. Sandy
-------Original Message------- From: Steve Szabo Date: 03/05/06 13:38:10
To: 'Sandy Kay'; Aquatic Life Subject: RE: aquatic member ph test results
I am also replying this to the list, because I think that everyone should
see this discussion. It may help them as well. Alkalinity has two
meanings. We speak of the alkalinity of the water when it has a pH above
7.0. Also, alkalinity refers to the buffering capacity of the water, which
is very different from pH. It is the second we should be concerned about
here. If water has an alkalinity of 0, it is very unstable so far as pH is
concerned. It would not take much of a change to cause the pH to crash. If
your water out of the tap is measuring 0 alkalinity, I'd be worried about
the state of the piping in your home, particularly if they are metal pipes,
though the water people are probably adding chemicals to prevent their pipes
from corroding. I'm not sure how to cure this, and I am in the process of
rearranging my library so I'm not even sure of the location of the reference
that could tell me off hand. I hope someone can chime in here to fill you I
on this. With the ammonia and nitrite readings, it looks as though your
tank is still cycling, or the biomass is overloading the bacterial
population that processes nitrogenous wastes. You are going to need to get
this stabilized before you can even think about adding anything to the tank,
though I would not advise it even after the stabilization. The guppy you
have would be happier in water of a higher pH since their range includes
waters that have higher pH and also brackish waters. The upsidedown cat is
probably _Synodontis nigriventris_ and hails from the Congo (Zaire) where
waters are considerably more soft and of lower pH than those of Lake
Tanganyika, where other species of _Synodontis_ can be found. This is
important to note, since many people presume all African fishes prefer hard
alkaline water, based on reports of the African cichlids from the rift lakes
of Africa. Much of the water in Africa is not of the hard and alkaline
variety, but softer and lower in pH, much like the habitat of many South
American fish. I'd say that you are pushing the limits of your tank for
population. Your upsidedown cat will reach near 4", if it is the fish I
think it is. You don't tell us what kind of fish your algae eater is, so one
can presume a larger size for that one as well. When full grown, the neons
should go to about 1.5 inches and the tiger barbs (not barb tetras) will go
about 3.25 inches (plus, they are a deeper bodied fish). Even if you were to
follow the old saw of 1 inch of fish per gallon of water, you are already
overcrowded, and that rule usually leads to over crowding in and of itself.
If you want more fish, get another, larger tank. If you want more fish and
only have room for one tank, get the biggest tank you can find that will fit
into the space you have. The larger the tank, the more likely it is to
absorb any missteps on your part. It will also be able to support more fish.
As alluded to in a prior sentence, it is more stable, both in maintaining a
water temperature, as well as maintaining other water parameters. Hang onto
the 10, though, it will come in handy as a quarantine tank for new or sick
fish. \\Steve// ________________________________ From: Sandy Kay
[mailto:knightwriter101@...] Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 12:51 PM
To: steve@... Subject: aquatic member ph test results the
alkalinity was 0, the nitrite was 0.5, the ammonia was 0.25, the ph is 6.4,
the hardness was 125, the nitrate is 20. I hope this is the information
you want. I have 3 neon tetras, 3 tiger barb tetras, 1 algae eater, 1 female
guppy, 1 upside down cat. When things get back to normal, I want to add 1
gourmi. Do you think this is all I should have in a 10 gallon tank? I
sent you another email thank you for the article on water. It was excellent.
I still want to read again. The tap water alkalinity was in the ideal
range, the ph was mid range, there was no ammonia.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16633 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Kuli Loach
Hello all

As I was putting some babies in a net in my 50 gallon, one of my kuli
loaches got out of the tank. (no idea how) We put him back in as soon as we
saw him on the floor, but he is not well today. Anything I can do or is he
going to die?

Cynthia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16634 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Wood suitable for canopy
Sorry for the x post but I thought I'd get as many opinions as I could.

For a reason that is too long to go into here I have to fabricate a frame
for the canopy for my 77 gal tank. This frame will be exposed to
condensation from the tank. I have bought a waterproof paint, water based
if you can believe that, but I am still worried about some leaching from
frame into the tank due to the heavy humidity there. Is there any
particular wood that I should avoid using? I am leaning toward Douglas fir
as its cheap, light and easy to work with.

Any opinions or suggestions?

Thanks all

Rob
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16635 From: hank voss Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Re: Wood suitable for canopy
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Rob Zanussi <rzanussi@...> wrote:
>

>
> For a reason that is too long to go into here I have to fabricate
a frame
> for the canopy for my 77 gal tank. This frame will be exposed to
> condensation
>
> Rob
>
Rob:
In the past i made some water storage vats out of plywood and
painted them with marine polyurethane which worked very well they
were in use for around 15 yrs. without any leaks or peeling. For the
first coat i thinned down the polyurethane so it really soaked into
the wood then did 2-3 normal coats lightly sanding between coats you
can use clear or satin types which ever you like best.Since they
came out with water based poly. ive been using that to seal old
slate bottom tanks this product seems to work out also but ive only
used it for the 2-3 yrs so its still under test.I use the same prep
as for the wood.
Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16636 From: Phil Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Re: Any advice on community tank, please?
hey! some apistos would work well.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16637 From: Allison Kulp Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: greetings
Namaste.
I've worked with bettas for three years or so, still have one that's
four years old, but this gave me some idea about where to purchase
stock - such as places that do practice good fishkeeping, and not to
let the pretty but sickly ones capture my heart. I had a beautiful
clear ghost or xray betta who lasted two whole weeks or the betta who
gave herself brain damage when trapped between two big rocks for a
weekend - she had seizures worse than me.
I have also learned some LFS stores shove shyer fish together so as
those who try to hide by burrowing under their tankmates or against
the filter get dead or traumatized pretty quick. I think the best one
was a store where in two visits I saw ich infect an entire wall of
fish, a puffer fish labeled as a moray eel with several tankmates,
more dead than live fish in several tanks including big old koi, and
someone dumping out at least twenty dead mollies they'd gotten out of
one tank out so as to use the same dipper to scoop out a gourami
without even giving it a quick rinse. Poor fish ;(
I've been doing goldfish and some peaceful aquarium fish for a few
months. In my freshwater heated tank I have some snails who magically
appeared from the plants. They have dark cowrie style shells with gold
spots and dark bodies. I'd like to know what they are, and how I can
get other odd snail types. I like snails, I'll admit it.
I want to set up a small tiger barb tank, with three green and three
yellow, along with my upside down catfish. Would this be feasible? I
have tons of plants and some decorations with ledges for it. Would any
other larger catfish, like a pictus, do better? Could I do a barb and
catfish tank? Currently, I have a tank with 2 immature corys, 1
immature pictus, 1 immature upside down catfish, 2 dwarf gourami and
6 zebra danios. The pictus and upside down catfish hide in the ledges
and decorations. I'm probably doing something very bad, but everyone
seems content, and the catfish seem more active and less terrified
than they were at the LFS. The levels are all a-ok, I was once a
medical technician, so I know a bit about chemistry and equilibrium.
Also, I did some of the stocking according to books that say these
fish will be at the top, these at the bottom, etc, and also they won't
do this - everyone mixes around the tank.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated - Al.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16638 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Re: Kuli Loach
Probably not at this time. However, if you were to post how, exactly, he is
not well, perhaps we can give you some suggestions.

Many fish that take the "leap of faith" do survive, though it can be a bit
of a rough road for them. Many do not.

In the mean time, you may want to put something in the tank that will
promote the production of the slime coat that all fish have. Novaqua and
Polyaqua come to mind, but there are others claiming to do the same. This
will not harm your other fish.

If a fish looked savable to me, I'd have placed him in a separate tank, by
himself, and then treated as above, and do what ever else may have been
required to help him along. Since you placed him in that tank that had other
fish, or so I am presumptuous enough to think, we will need to tread
carefully with any cures he may need. Also, since it is a kuhli loach, he is
liable to disappear, behind something or into the substrate, which will make
keeping an eye on him pretty difficult. You may not know if he survived for
months or years until he shows his whiskered snout again.

Wish you and your fish well.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 4:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Kuli Loach


Hello all

As I was putting some babies in a net in my 50 gallon, one of my kuli
loaches got out of the tank. (no idea how) We put him back in as soon as we

saw him on the floor, but he is not well today. Anything I can do or is he
going to die?

Cynthia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16639 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Re: Wood suitable for canopy
Use what you want. Just use a good marine grade coating--paint, varnish,
etc.--on it, and you should be good to go with it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rob Zanussi
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 6:07 PM
To: AngieandAndrewsAquatics@...; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com;
UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Wood suitable for canopy

Sorry for the x post but I thought I'd get as many opinions as I could.

For a reason that is too long to go into here I have to fabricate a frame
for the canopy for my 77 gal tank. This frame will be exposed to
condensation from the tank. I have bought a waterproof paint, water based
if you can believe that, but I am still worried about some leaching from
frame into the tank due to the heavy humidity there. Is there any
particular wood that I should avoid using? I am leaning toward Douglas fir
as its cheap, light and easy to work with.

Any opinions or suggestions?

Thanks all

Rob
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16640 From: Dmitry V Gorelov Date: 3/6/2006
Subject: Re: Any advice on community tank, please?
Thanks for advice, Phil! Will look into...

Phil writes:

> hey! some apistos would work well.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16641 From: Sandy Kay Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: aquatic member ph test results ~ sorry for being long from Sandy re
Hi Steve,

Thank you so much for helping me out. I am going to do the changes you
recommend below. Will get back when something happens or changes. May be a
few days.

Sandy






From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
Subject: RE: RE: aquatic member ph test results ~ sorry for being long from
Sandy

Sandy,

Much better alkalinity reading out of the tap.

Let' see, looking back, I see your current tank pH is 6.4. Out of the tap it
is 7.2. Measured in the tank, the alkalinity is 0 and out of the tap it is
120.

We now need to get the water back into shape (this is one reason why it is
so dangerous to mess with water chemistry). We have a 0.8 difference in the
pH, so we should work on this, then the other will come into line as well, I
would suspect. I am thinking that if you do water changes daily of about 1
gallon per change, we should start to see things get back into line before
too long. Do not add any conditioner to the water except one that acts only
on the chlorine/chloramine that is in your water supply. Check your pH each
day prior to the water change. We would hope to see it rising after a day or
two of water changes. Once the pH starts to rise, check the alkalinity, it
should be rising also.

We are going to be doing a balancing act here for a while, as we don't want
the pH to come up too rapidly, as this may adversely affect the fish. That
is why we are going to be checking the pH daily prior to doing the water
change. If it rises more than 0.1 in a day, don't change the water that day,
but wait and check the pH the next day. If it remains the same for two days,
we have pretty much started winning the battle, and you can slow down on the
water changes and the tank should stabilize.

The fish should survive with the higher pH, even though they would prefer
another level. The pH of your tank will probably remain lower than that
coming from the tap, but that is to be expected. It is caused by the
biological processes happening in the tank. Once things have stabilized, do
a 20% water change each week.

You may also wish to start looking at fish that enjoy a higher pH than the
fish you have for when the time comes to move to a larger tank, or there is
room in your current tank.

\\Steve//

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16642 From: Beth Brownell Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: I am at odds with this.
The decision to get another fish tank.
It would mean number three for me.
I am wondering if I should get another one or not.
I have one tank that has over ten fish in it and it is a 29 gallon tank.
I was thinking about getting another 29 gallon tank set up.
And the place I was thinking of putting it was in the kitchen where it
would be seen when we are cooking or entertaining people in the kitchen.
I plan on using a 60 gallon filter for the tank and putting about five
of my fishes from my 29 gallon tank in it plus another compy.

Should I get another tank or just sacrifice five Angelfishes to the
grave? They are doing okay in the 29 gallon tank. But I want them to be
able to spread their wings out. I know five to a tank is overcrowding
but I wasn't sure if they would make it from their breeder to my place
so I ordered ten and all survived the trip.

Beth Brownell
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16643 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: I am at odds with this.
Beth,
I am bad on that one, my poor husband, got the plans almost done for him to cut the boards to make another rack so I can add more tanks. Course at the stage where I need to think about getting a 100g rubbermaid water trough to move the catfish into since they are starting to out grow the tank they are in.
We have a tank in the diningroom (36g square) which has been great, since no TV during dinner it becomes the entertainment over conversation, and when everyone is done with dinner seems we all sit around still discussing the days activities, so for us the tank in the diningroom has been quite beneficial. Course the fish are beggars, so we always save them uncooked veggies so they can eat with us.
Shannon
Beth Brownell <spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
The decision to get another fish tank.
It would mean number three for me.
I am wondering if I should get another one or not.
I have one tank that has over ten fish in it and it is a 29 gallon tank.
I was thinking about getting another 29 gallon tank set up.
And the place I was thinking of putting it was in the kitchen where it
would be seen when we are cooking or entertaining people in the kitchen.
I plan on using a 60 gallon filter for the tank and putting about five
of my fishes from my 29 gallon tank in it plus another compy.

Should I get another tank or just sacrifice five Angelfishes to the
grave? They are doing okay in the 29 gallon tank. But I want them to be
able to spread their wings out. I know five to a tank is overcrowding
but I wasn't sure if they would make it from their breeder to my place
so I ordered ten and all survived the trip.

Beth Brownell











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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16644 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: Kuli Loach
He died. :(

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 10:42 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Kuli Loach


Probably not at this time. However, if you were to post how, exactly, he is
not well, perhaps we can give you some suggestions.

Many fish that take the "leap of faith" do survive, though it can be a bit
of a rough road for them. Many do not.

In the mean time, you may want to put something in the tank that will
promote the production of the slime coat that all fish have. Novaqua and
Polyaqua come to mind, but there are others claiming to do the same. This
will not harm your other fish.

If a fish looked savable to me, I'd have placed him in a separate tank, by
himself, and then treated as above, and do what ever else may have been
required to help him along. Since you placed him in that tank that had other
fish, or so I am presumptuous enough to think, we will need to tread
carefully with any cures he may need. Also, since it is a kuhli loach, he is
liable to disappear, behind something or into the substrate, which will make
keeping an eye on him pretty difficult. You may not know if he survived for
months or years until he shows his whiskered snout again.

Wish you and your fish well.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 4:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Kuli Loach


Hello all

As I was putting some babies in a net in my 50 gallon, one of my kuli
loaches got out of the tank. (no idea how) We put him back in as soon as we

saw him on the floor, but he is not well today. Anything I can do or is he
going to die?

Cynthia




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16645 From: supamii Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: blue-green slime algae!!!
i have whats sometimes refered to as cyanobacteria- ive read that
mainly poor water quality or dissolved organics are to blame but i do
partial water changes every 1.5 weeks and there are no dead leaves in
the tank (although there were... i took them out)

i prefer not to dump chemicals in the tank so does anyone know the
exact source of this? (15 gal tank with 1 angel, 5 pristellas, 6
hengel rasboras and a small pleco )

anyone with experience with slime algae please help out!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16646 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: I am at odds with this.
Well, the kitchen is a tough place to have a tank. You would be surprised at
the amount of grease that can collect on the water's surface. Beefing up the
filtration may help. When I had a tank in the kitchen--was running out of
places to put tanks in an apartment--it required more maintenance than the
other tanks.

However having said that, I take it you are going to use the tank for
angels. If that is the case, you might want to have a tank like the 37
gallon from All-Glass Aquarium. It has the same footprint as a 29, but is 22
inches tall rather than 18. If you have a good line of angels, they can get
to 8" SL and the height from the tip of the anal to the tip of the dorsal
could reach to 12". In order for the angels to develop this type of finnage,
or a finnage in proportion to their adult length, they do need a deep tank.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Beth Brownell
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 6:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I am at odds with this.

The decision to get another fish tank.
It would mean number three for me.
I am wondering if I should get another one or not.
I have one tank that has over ten fish in it and it is a 29 gallon tank.
I was thinking about getting another 29 gallon tank set up.
And the place I was thinking of putting it was in the kitchen where it
would be seen when we are cooking or entertaining people in the kitchen.
I plan on using a 60 gallon filter for the tank and putting about five
of my fishes from my 29 gallon tank in it plus another compy.

Should I get another tank or just sacrifice five Angelfishes to the
grave? They are doing okay in the 29 gallon tank. But I want them to be
able to spread their wings out. I know five to a tank is overcrowding
but I wasn't sure if they would make it from their breeder to my place
so I ordered ten and all survived the trip.

Beth Brownell







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16647 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: Kuli Loach
Ahhh, too bad. Sometimes they make it sometimes they don't.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 7:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Kuli Loach

He died. :(

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 10:42 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Kuli Loach


Probably not at this time. However, if you were to post how, exactly, he is
not well, perhaps we can give you some suggestions.

Many fish that take the "leap of faith" do survive, though it can be a bit
of a rough road for them. Many do not.

In the mean time, you may want to put something in the tank that will
promote the production of the slime coat that all fish have. Novaqua and
Polyaqua come to mind, but there are others claiming to do the same. This
will not harm your other fish.

If a fish looked savable to me, I'd have placed him in a separate tank, by
himself, and then treated as above, and do what ever else may have been
required to help him along. Since you placed him in that tank that had other
fish, or so I am presumptuous enough to think, we will need to tread
carefully with any cures he may need. Also, since it is a kuhli loach, he is
liable to disappear, behind something or into the substrate, which will make
keeping an eye on him pretty difficult. You may not know if he survived for
months or years until he shows his whiskered snout again.

Wish you and your fish well.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 4:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Kuli Loach


Hello all

As I was putting some babies in a net in my 50 gallon, one of my kuli
loaches got out of the tank. (no idea how) We put him back in as soon as we

saw him on the floor, but he is not well today. Anything I can do or is he
going to die?

Cynthia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16648 From: kristopher helsing Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
how much do you feed them??? starve them for a couple days... they will be ok... trust me! i thought it would be bad...... it works great. I skipped a few feedings and spaced them... the algea slowly went away... i also upped the co2 ... my tank happens to be planted...

Kris

supamii <supamii@...> wrote:
i have whats sometimes refered to as cyanobacteria- ive read that
mainly poor water quality or dissolved organics are to blame but i do
partial water changes every 1.5 weeks and there are no dead leaves in
the tank (although there were... i took them out)

i prefer not to dump chemicals in the tank so does anyone know the
exact source of this? (15 gal tank with 1 angel, 5 pristellas, 6
hengel rasboras and a small pleco )

anyone with experience with slime algae please help out!





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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---------------------------------





---------------------------------
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PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16649 From: Patrick Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
You will need to use antibiotics to remove the bacterial slime. It is not
algae, so normal algae treatments won't do it. You might be able to scrape
it out.

Patrick
----- Original Message -----

i have whats sometimes refered to as cyanobacteria- ive read that
mainly poor water quality or dissolved organics are to blame but i do
partial water changes every 1.5 weeks and there are no dead leaves in
the tank (although there were... i took them out)

i prefer not to dump chemicals in the tank so does anyone know the
exact source of this? (15 gal tank with 1 angel, 5 pristellas, 6
hengel rasboras and a small pleco )

anyone with experience with slime algae please help out!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16650 From: Captain Dudedude Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Help me!!
I think my fish is dying! She lays on the bottom of the tank breathing, she has been like
this all day. Is there anything I can do?!

Please help,
Brian
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16651 From: supamii Date: 3/7/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
a characteristic of blue-green slime algae is that it is very easy to
remove. unfortunately it grows very rapidly given optimal conditions.
i noted earlier that i prefered not to add any anti-biotics or
chemicals since i dont want to bother with the biological filters and
such.

has anyone else had experience with successfully removing this slime
algae??

whats the source of this outrageous growth?

i have of course a medium-planted tank.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patrick" <patrickmn@...> wrote:
>
> You will need to use antibiotics to remove the bacterial slime. It
is not
> algae, so normal algae treatments won't do it. You might be able to
scrape
> it out.
>
> Patrick
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> i have whats sometimes refered to as cyanobacteria- ive read that
> mainly poor water quality or dissolved organics are to blame but i do
> partial water changes every 1.5 weeks and there are no dead leaves in
> the tank (although there were... i took them out)
>
> i prefer not to dump chemicals in the tank so does anyone know the
> exact source of this? (15 gal tank with 1 angel, 5 pristellas, 6
> hengel rasboras and a small pleco )
>
> anyone with experience with slime algae please help out!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16652 From: supamii Date: 3/8/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
i feed my fishes once a day and they average about 1-2 flakes per
fish... i feel like i am starving them at times- so it seems unlikely
that overfeeding would be the culprit.

i too have a planted tank, its a medium-planted with less demanding
plants like java ferns and swords- but i still have a basic co2 system
set up.

btw, my lights are on about 11 hours a day with the timer.

sooo, help! anyone else with similar troubles with slime algae as i
do? help!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kristopher helsing <punk3r12@...>
wrote:
>
> how much do you feed them??? starve them for a couple days... they
will be ok... trust me! i thought it would be bad...... it works
great. I skipped a few feedings and spaced them... the algea slowly
went away... i also upped the co2 ... my tank happens to be planted...
>
> Kris
>
> supamii <supamii@...> wrote:
> i have whats sometimes refered to as cyanobacteria- ive read that
> mainly poor water quality or dissolved organics are to blame but i do
> partial water changes every 1.5 weeks and there are no dead leaves in
> the tank (although there were... i took them out)
>
> i prefer not to dump chemicals in the tank so does anyone know the
> exact source of this? (15 gal tank with 1 angel, 5 pristellas, 6
> hengel rasboras and a small pleco )
>
> anyone with experience with slime algae please help out!
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
United kingdom South africa
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Brings words and photos together (easily) with
> PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16653 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 3/8/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
It sounds like you have too much phosphorus in your water . You need
to find out how much phosphorus is in your water and try to remove
it. One thing might be with the plant food that you use on your
aquatic plants. Depending on the types of plants you might want to
cut down on the time that the light is on in your tank. YOu might
also consider putting more plants in the tank to outcompete the
algae for the avaliable plant foods and light.`


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "supamii" <supamii@...> wrote:
>
> i feed my fishes once a day and they average about 1-2 flakes per
> fish... i feel like i am starving them at times- so it seems
unlikely
> that overfeeding would be the culprit.
>
> i too have a planted tank, its a medium-planted with less demanding
> plants like java ferns and swords- but i still have a basic co2
system
> set up.
>
> btw, my lights are on about 11 hours a day with the timer.
>
> sooo, help! anyone else with similar troubles with slime algae as
i
> do? help!
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kristopher helsing <punk3r12@>
> wrote:
> >
> > how much do you feed them??? starve them for a couple days...
they
> will be ok... trust me! i thought it would be bad...... it works
> great. I skipped a few feedings and spaced them... the algea slowly
> went away... i also upped the co2 ... my tank happens to be
planted...
> >
> > Kris
> >
> > supamii <supamii@> wrote:
> > i have whats sometimes refered to as cyanobacteria- ive read
that
> > mainly poor water quality or dissolved organics are to blame but
i do
> > partial water changes every 1.5 weeks and there are no dead
leaves in
> > the tank (although there were... i took them out)
> >
> > i prefer not to dump chemicals in the tank so does anyone know
the
> > exact source of this? (15 gal tank with 1 angel, 5 pristellas, 6
> > hengel rasboras and a small pleco )
> >
> > anyone with experience with slime algae please help out!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message
> MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> >
> >
> >
> > SPONSORED LINKS
> > Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
> United kingdom South africa
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> > ---------------------------------
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> Service.
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> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16654 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 3/8/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
i don't know if it works for freshwater tanks but in
saltwater many people use something called
chemi-clean.

--- Patrick <patrickmn@...> wrote:

> You will need to use antibiotics to remove the
> bacterial slime. It is not
> algae, so normal algae treatments won't do it. You
> might be able to scrape
> it out.
>
> Patrick
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> i have whats sometimes refered to as cyanobacteria-
> ive read that
> mainly poor water quality or dissolved organics are
> to blame but i do
> partial water changes every 1.5 weeks and there are
> no dead leaves in
> the tank (although there were... i took them out)
>
> i prefer not to dump chemicals in the tank so does
> anyone know the
> exact source of this? (15 gal tank with 1 angel, 5
> pristellas, 6
> hengel rasboras and a small pleco )
>
> anyone with experience with slime algae please help
> out!
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16655 From: kristopher helsing Date: 3/8/2006
Subject: Re: Help me!!
water perameters... what kind of fish would be helpful in assessing the situation..

Captain Dudedude <brianskywalker@...> wrote: I think my fish is dying! She lays on the bottom of the tank breathing, she has been like
this all day. Is there anything I can do?!

Please help,
Brian









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16656 From: supamii Date: 3/8/2006
Subject: Re: blue-green slime algae!!!
so youre saying slime-algae is due to phosphorus? perhaps you have a
link to an article about slime algae which involves high levels of
phosphorous?

anyway-
im quite mindful of the amount of plant food that is added. i add a
very small amount of plant food once a week or so to ensure that there
is some iron and potassium for the plants- otherwise they would not
be able to intake all the other nutrients in the water.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dreammaker2623"
<dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
>
> It sounds like you have too much phosphorus in your water . You need
> to find out how much phosphorus is in your water and try to remove
> it. One thing might be with the plant food that you use on your
> aquatic plants. Depending on the types of plants you might want to
> cut down on the time that the light is on in your tank. YOu might
> also consider putting more plants in the tank to outcompete the
> algae for the avaliable plant foods and light.`
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "supamii" <supamii@> wrote:
> >
> > i feed my fishes once a day and they average about 1-2 flakes per
> > fish... i feel like i am starving them at times- so it seems
> unlikely
> > that overfeeding would be the culprit.
> >
> > i too have a planted tank, its a medium-planted with less demanding
> > plants like java ferns and swords- but i still have a basic co2
> system
> > set up.
> >
> > btw, my lights are on about 11 hours a day with the timer.
> >
> > sooo, help! anyone else with similar troubles with slime algae as
> i
> > do? help!
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kristopher helsing <punk3r12@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > how much do you feed them??? starve them for a couple days...
> they
> > will be ok... trust me! i thought it would be bad...... it works
> > great. I skipped a few feedings and spaced them... the algea slowly
> > went away... i also upped the co2 ... my tank happens to be
> planted...
> > >
> > > Kris
> > >
> > > supamii <supamii@> wrote:
> > > i have whats sometimes refered to as cyanobacteria- ive read
> that
> > > mainly poor water quality or dissolved organics are to blame but
> i do
> > > partial water changes every 1.5 weeks and there are no dead
> leaves in
> > > the tank (although there were... i took them out)
> > >
> > > i prefer not to dump chemicals in the tank so does anyone know
> the
> > > exact source of this? (15 gal tank with 1 angel, 5 pristellas, 6
> > > hengel rasboras and a small pleco )
> > >
> > > anyone with experience with slime algae please help out!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message
> > MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > SPONSORED LINKS
> > > Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
> > United kingdom South africa
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
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> > > Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> > Service.
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> > > Brings words and photos together (easily) with
> > > PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
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>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16657 From: Captain Dudedude Date: 3/9/2006
Subject: Re: Help me!!
I think they are trout.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kristopher helsing <punk3r12@...> wrote:
>
> water perameters... what kind of fish would be helpful in assessing the situation..
>
> Captain Dudedude <brianskywalker@...> wrote: I think my fish is dying! She lays on the
bottom of the tank breathing, she has been like
> this all day. Is there anything I can do?!
>
> Please help,
> Brian
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply &
if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South
africa
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16658 From: hank voss Date: 3/9/2006
Subject: Re: Help me!!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Captain Dudedude"
<brianskywalker@...> wrote:
>
> I think they are trout.
==================== ===========================

If they are trout they do not do well in aquariums unless you
can give them coolwater/
Hank








> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kristopher helsing <punk3r12@>
wrote:
> >
> > water perameters... what kind of fish would be helpful in
assessing the situation..
> >
> > Captain Dudedude <brianskywalker@> wrote: I think my fish is
dying! She lays on the
> bottom of the tank breathing, she has been like
> > this all day. Is there anything I can do?!
> >
> > Please help,
> > Brian
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply &
> if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new
> subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> >
> >
> >
> > SPONSORED LINKS
> > Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
United kingdom South
> africa
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> >
> >
> > Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16659 From: Sandy Kay Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
Hi,

I've done the 1 gallon water change as you suggested for 3 days now. I
thought it would be good to send the readings again. Alkalinity 0, nitrite 0
ph 6.4, hardness 120, nitrate 20 with the mardel test kit.

The ph may be a tad higher but not much. Do you know how long it will take
to see it go up. Will it take a few weeks. What should it would read when it
is right. I know it can vary. Just am not sure where it should be in the
range of. I do have all live plants. They are starting to grow out now.

The fish seem pretty healthy. The temperature is 80 degrees. I know that is
a little high. Since it is cold at night and I turn the light off, I have
had it up higher to help with ick and the fish being messed up with the
water. Is that okay?

Thanks so much for any help, Sandy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16660 From: hank voss Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sandy Kay"
<knightwriter101@...> wrote


SANDY:
You write that you have live plants and they are doing
well,and the fish seem healthy why are tou trying to change the
water conditions? If everything is ok with the tank you are better
off leaving things alone rather thantrying to change the water
chemistry to what the books tell you what they should be.Fish are
very adaptable. Its like the old saying (if it aint broke dont fix
it).

Best Hank











I do have all live plants. They are starting to grow out now.
>
> The fish seem pretty healthy. The temperature is 80 degrees. I
know that is
> a little high. Since it is cold at night and I turn the light off,
I have
> had it up higher to help with ick and the fish being messed up
with the
> water. Is that okay?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16661 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
Hank,

She had a pH crash and lost a number of fish a few weeks ago. We are trying
to get her alkalinity up and her water more in line with what is coming out
of the tap.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 6:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sandy Kay"
<knightwriter101@...> wrote


SANDY:
You write that you have live plants and they are doing
well,and the fish seem healthy why are tou trying to change the
water conditions? If everything is ok with the tank you are better
off leaving things alone rather thantrying to change the water
chemistry to what the books tell you what they should be.Fish are
very adaptable. Its like the old saying (if it aint broke dont fix
it).

Best Hank











I do have all live plants. They are starting to grow out now.
>
> The fish seem pretty healthy. The temperature is 80 degrees. I
know that is
> a little high. Since it is cold at night and I turn the light off,
I have
> had it up higher to help with ick and the fish being messed up
with the
> water. Is that okay?
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16662 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
Sandy,

Stay the course. You mentioned your nitrite is now 0, which is good. I would
be willing to think that your ammonia has also gone down to 0 or close to
it, by now. I'm not real concerned that the alkalinity has not yet started
to rise. I don't know how sensitive your kit is, so we need to take a wait
and see attitude here. Continue as you have been. Glad to hear that the fish
and plants are responding. They may be liking the water changes <g>.

Until the alkalinity starts to go upward, we are not likely to see much in
the way of the pH rising.

When the heater kicks in, and is running, turn it down just enough to turn
off the indicator light. Do this every few days until you get the
temperature down to a more comfortable level for everyone. Probably around
75-76^0 F. At the rate the temperature will come down, you should not have
to worry about ich setting in. It will be a slow comfortable drop in
temperature for everyone.

"Maybe this world is another planet's hell."
Aldous Huxley

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandy Kay
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 4:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] aquatic member ph test results~ Steve

Hi, I've done the 1 gallon water change as you suggested for 3 days now. I
thought it would be good to send the readings again. Alkalinity 0, nitrite 0
ph 6.4, hardness 120, nitrate 20 with the mardel test kit. The ph may be a
tad higher but not much. Do you know how long it will take
to see it go up. Will it take a few weeks. What should it would read when it
is right. I know it can vary. Just am not sure where it should be in the
range of. I do have all live plants. They are starting to grow out now. The
fish seem pretty healthy. The temperature is 80 degrees. I know that is
a little high. Since it is cold at night and I turn the light off, I have
had it up higher to help with ick and the fish being messed up with the
water. Is that okay? Thanks so much for any help, Sandy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16663 From: Sandra Kay Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
Steve,
Thank you for explaining what I am trying to do with my tank. You
said it better than I could have. I sincerely appreciate your help
and will continue with what you say to do. I'll reply back in another
week or so. I am so glad to be receiving good help.
Sandy



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Sandy,
>
> Stay the course. You mentioned your nitrite is now 0, which is
good. I would
> be willing to think that your ammonia has also gone down to 0 or
close to
> it, by now. I'm not real concerned that the alkalinity has not yet
started
> to rise. I don't know how sensitive your kit is, so we need to take
a wait
> and see attitude here. Continue as you have been. Glad to hear that
the fish
> and plants are responding. They may be liking the water changes <g>.
>
> Until the alkalinity starts to go upward, we are not likely to see
much in
> the way of the pH rising.
>
> When the heater kicks in, and is running, turn it down just enough
to turn
> off the indicator light. Do this every few days until you get the
> temperature down to a more comfortable level for everyone. Probably
around
> 75-76^0 F. At the rate the temperature will come down, you should
not have
> to worry about ich setting in. It will be a slow comfortable drop in
> temperature for everyone.
>
> "Maybe this world is another planet's hell."
> Aldous Huxley
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Sandy Kay
> Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 4:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
>
> Hi, I've done the 1 gallon water change as you suggested for 3
days now. I
> thought it would be good to send the readings again. Alkalinity 0,
nitrite 0
> ph 6.4, hardness 120, nitrate 20 with the mardel test kit. The ph
may be a
> tad higher but not much. Do you know how long it will take
> to see it go up. Will it take a few weeks. What should it would
read when it
> is right. I know it can vary. Just am not sure where it should be
in the
> range of. I do have all live plants. They are starting to grow out
now. The
> fish seem pretty healthy. The temperature is 80 degrees. I know
that is
> a little high. Since it is cold at night and I turn the light off,
I have
> had it up higher to help with ick and the fish being messed up with
the
> water. Is that okay? Thanks so much for any help, Sandy
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16664 From: Brian Date: 3/10/2006
Subject: cleaning a used tank
I just got an 80 gallon tank today it is a used tank, it is covered in
brown algae and the rocks were clumped together with a brown slime it
was a mess. I moved the fish in to a clean tank and mixed the water 50/
50 clean new water and old tank waterto prevent shock to the fish, but
I want to clean the tank and get it up and running. Should I soak the
gravel in a bleach solution or salt water as for the tank I am going to
let it dry then take a scraper to it and peal the algae off the glass
to start then wash with a mild bleach solution and rense 7 or 8 times.
Any advice would be appreciated.



Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16665 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning a used tank
The tank is empty now right ???

FOR A GLASS TANK-( rememebr this is just how I'd do it )

Drain, move to location you can use bleach. Fill to 1/2 way mark throw in a
Cup of bleach
40 gallons water/ 1 cup of bleach SHOULD not be to excessive.. I'd probally
throw 2 cups of bleach myself.

stir the gravel a couple times allowing the gravel to be mixed. wash down
the walls of the tank above and below the water line... You'll notice most of
the stuff should come off.
Once your satisfied you can't wash anymore Drain tank...... I like removing
all the gravel and throwing in a bucket at this time. You'll need to rinse the
gravel 4 or 5 times before putting it back in.

Look at the tank, still some spots that need work?

I like pouring vinegar and a pinch of salt on a washcloth and washing the
stubborn spots. With alittle elbow grease most spots will come clean. re
To rinse gravel I like throwing a waterhose in the bucket and allowing to
over fill for an hour. Every 10 minutes stirring it with a stick, broom handle,
etc.

When you do fill your tank back up use a water conditioner to remove chlorine
and chloramines. remember your tank is Now sterile You will have to go
through the CYCLE again... 1 fish 2 fish let sit, 3 fish 4 fish let sit... will take
awhile to get the tank fully stocked.

FOR AN ACRYLIC tank - someone else will have to give advice

Rob Renfro
NE Indiana

Proud member of
www.ftas.net,
www.midwestcichlid.com
www.goodeids.com



In a message dated 3/11/2006 2:10:48 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
brian_herfel@... writes:
I just got an 80 gallon tank today it is a used tank, it is covered in
brown algae and the rocks were clumped together with a brown slime it
was a mess. I moved the fish in to a clean tank and mixed the water 50/
50 clean new water and old tank waterto prevent shock to the fish, but
I want to clean the tank and get it up and running. Should I soak the
gravel in a bleach solution or salt water as for the tank I am going to
let it dry then take a scraper to it and peal the algae off the glass
to start then wash with a mild bleach solution and rense 7 or 8 times.
Any advice would be appreciated.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16666 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning a used tank
I like your plan, but don't let the tank dry out. Wash it with the same kind
of solution you are using for the gravel and rocks and scrape or wipe the
algae off the glass--try wiping first, then scraping if there are any
stubborn spots.

As for the choice between the bleach or salt solution, I don't think it
really matters. Both will perform a disinfecting function. Bleach is
probably more efficient, but any remaining salt in the tank will not harm
the new inhabitants of the tank.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Brian
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 3:44 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] cleaning a used tank

I just got an 80 gallon tank today it is a used tank, it is covered in
brown algae and the rocks were clumped together with a brown slime it
was a mess. I moved the fish in to a clean tank and mixed the water 50/
50 clean new water and old tank waterto prevent shock to the fish, but
I want to clean the tank and get it up and running. Should I soak the
gravel in a bleach solution or salt water as for the tank I am going to
let it dry then take a scraper to it and peal the algae off the glass
to start then wash with a mild bleach solution and rense 7 or 8 times.
Any advice would be appreciated.



Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16667 From: Steve Martinez Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: Cloudy aglae water ...HELP
Hey Guys

I have a little problem ...I think..

I have a 55 gallon tank and it is stocked with 2 pleco's, a balla
shark and 7 small other tetras. My problem is that the tank will not
get uncloudy and there is a gleen algae at the bottom of the tank. I
have tested the ph and it is at between 7.0 - 7.2. I tested my
nitrate/nitrite levels and my nitrate level is 0 but my nitrite level
is 3.0 ( which it says is stress ) how do I get the nitrite levels
down?? The temp of the tank is 75 degrees. I am currently using
Cycle once a week and stress coat when there is a water change. I
have been doing 20% water changes once a day to get rid of the cloudy
water and the algae...should I be doing this. Can anyone give me some
advise please.

Thanks very much
Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16668 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning a used tank
Brian, Your plan looks well thought out. Would just like to add
what I do in cleaning out and preparing a previously used glass tank
to be set up again for new occupants, for your consideration. I set
the tank somewhere where I know I can flush it thoroughly without any
problems, like in the driveway (on old plywood if you'd prefer,
although not really necessary). Making sure its level, I then fill
it to the brim and add 1/4 cup of bleach per 25 gallons, and leave it
sit for at least 20 to 30 minutes (longer, if you have the time).
This should kill most pathogens associated with fish diseases, which
you want to ensure if the source of the tank is unknown. Filling it
only half-way will not guarantee you're exposing all possible
pathogens to this more complete procedure. You can scrape the sides
of the algae either before or after the soak. Afterwards, its a good
idea to use a nylon scrubby pad on the sides to ensure they're free
of all such traces. After draining, I wipe the uppermost top of the
innside of the tank, including the frame/trim, with straight bleach
using rubber gloves -- this takes care of any other possible
pathogens that could not be killed for any lack of filling the tank
to the very topmost areas that may have escaped exposure to the
bleach solution. Drain and rinse thoroughly and you have a sterile
tank. Your gravel is probably best cleaned in buckets (w/bleach
solution), and afterwards can be thoroughly rinsed of all bleach and
residue by forcing your hose down into the gravel, letting the dirty
water continually overflow the bucket until it is clear. Ray -- ---
In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <brian_herfel@...> wrote:
>
> I just got an 80 gallon tank today it is a used tank, it is covered
in
> brown algae and the rocks were clumped together with a brown slime
it
> was a mess. I moved the fish in to a clean tank and mixed the water
50/
> 50 clean new water and old tank waterto prevent shock to the fish,
but
> I want to clean the tank and get it up and running. Should I soak
the
> gravel in a bleach solution or salt water as for the tank I am
going to
> let it dry then take a scraper to it and peal the algae off the
glass
> to start then wash with a mild bleach solution and rense 7 or 8
times.
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16669 From: heather norton Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning a used tank
Q:cleaning a used tank that is filthy
I just got an 80 gallon tank today it is a used tank, it is covered in brown algae and the rocks were clumped together with a brown slime it was a mess. I moved the fish in to a clean tank and mixed the water 50/ 50 clean new water and old tank water to prevent shock to the fish, but I want to clean the tank and get it up and running. Should I soak the gravel in a bleach solution or salt water as for the tank I am going to let it dry then take a scraper to it and peal the algae off the glass to start then wash with a mild bleach solution and rinse 7 or 8 times.
Any advice would be appreciated.

A: If I got a tank needing cleaning of any kind I use a fifty ,fifty solution of sea salt and baking soda it has done wonders for me ,bleach is dangerous and I don't feel it is all gone when you restart the tank As far as the gravel is concerned you may be best to save yourself some heartache and funds by starting with new gravel because it doesn't sound to healthy to me anyway
Heather Norton

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16670 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: OT: Diamondback Terrapin Survey
I am a member of ASIH (American Society of Ichthyologists and
Herpetologists), mainly to get their publication Copeia. The other day I
received in the mail a postcard which I am including the text below.

I know that this is pretty much way off topic for the lists I am sending
this to, but I also know that there are a certain number of the list members
who actually get out and into areas where the diamondbacks can be found. If
you are one of those people, why not help out with this survey?

INFORMATION NEEDED ON DIAMONDBACK TERRAPINS

If you have ever seen terrapins in the wild, please fill out an on-line
survey about the current and past status and range of the diamondback
terrapin (_Malaclemys terrapin_). Also please spread the news of this survey
to any other appropriate person. The survey is at
www.people.hofstra.edu/terrapin, or you can request a paper version for the
address below. Historically the diamondback terrapin has been reported in
salt marshes and mangrove swamps from Cape Cod, MA to Corpus Christi, TX.
They are perhaps most commonly seen basking or crossing roads to nest. Your
help is greatly appreciated.

Dr. Russell Burke
Department of Biology
Hofstra University
Hempstead, NY 11549
516 463 5521
biorlb@...

\\Steve//
"It is much easier to suggest solutions when you don't know too
much about the problem." - Malcolm Forbes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16671 From: J G Date: 3/11/2006
Subject: sick (?) Betta
Hey guys... just wondering if any of you can shed
some light on a slight
problem I seem to have...

I have 3 male betas, in a divided tank. It's the
screen divisors that Pet
Co has to set up sections for baby fish, etc. So the
water can move between
sections but the fish cant. I haven't had any
problems with them other than
the occasional boarder patrol, trying to look bigger &
badder than their
neighbor. Other than the time I accidentally hit the
divider separating 2
of the fish, moving it back enough for the middle one
to sneak into the one
end where the two had a little rumble going on till I
caught them &
separated them & fixed the divider.

One the one who thus far has stayed in his own
section, I noticed a small
white patch on his "back" a little before the
body/tail switch. If he were
a car, I'd say someone just scratched the paint job.
That area was kind of
bulged to. I tried to get a good pic of it, but I
guess I'm no
photographer, so... forget that. When I first noticed
it I thought it might
be a fungus, so I dropped one of my anti-fungal
tablets into his section.
He seemed alright, not acting strange or anything.

Friday I went to collect the fish to get them ready to
come home for spring
break... I noticed these light brown-ish bubbles over
his eyes... I know
some breeds of goldfish have something similar to them
- but his isn't as
puffy as the goldfish kind.

The other 2 don't have these bubbles, or white spots
(though its not as
visible right now). They're all in the same tank, so
the water would be
equally as bad for all of them. Only difference in
the sections is a heater
in the center section (to diffuse the heat to the 2
neighboring sections
faster). They all seem to be swimming around like
normal.

Anyone with any ideas of what's wrong, how to treat
it, etc?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. They're all in
their own cups right
now so if its communicable, the damage is done...


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16675 From: Brian Date: 3/12/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning a used tank
Thanks for all the advice. I am in no hurry to get the tank set up so I
am using bleach on it then will rinse it good drain it then fill it and
let it stand for a week or so to age the water and get rid of excess
clorean. this tank will be replacing a 35 gallon tank that I have
runing now so when I have the new tank in place I will empty the 35
gallon tank into it to give it a jump start for cycling. I will let you
know how it goes when I get it all clean.



thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16676 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 3/12/2006
Subject: Re: THIS IS THE REAL HIM?/To Ahmad
Member has been Banned, I apologize for this error
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16677 From: Steve Martinez Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Can any member give me some help?????
Hey Guys

I have a little problem ...I think..

I have a 55 gallon tank and it is stocked with 2 pleco's, a balla
shark and 7 small other tetras. My problem is that the tank will not
get uncloudy and there is a gleen algae at the bottom of the tank. I
have tested the ph and it is at between 7.0 - 7.2. I tested my
nitrate/nitrite levels and my nitrate level is 0 but my nitrite level
is 3.0 ( which it says is stress ) how do I get the nitrite levels
down?? The temp of the tank is 75 degrees. I am currently using
Cycle once a week and stress coat when there is a water change. I
have been doing 20% water changes once a day to get rid of the cloudy
water and the algae...should I be doing this. Can anyone give me some
advise please.

Thanks very much
Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16678 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
We used an algae product that is for ponds. It binds the algae together so
that the filter can pick it up. I just followed the directions, then waited
a few hours to do a water change. Worked for me! Try your local pet store

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Martinez" <sdm1969@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 6:21 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Can any member give me some help?????


Hey Guys

I have a little problem ...I think..

I have a 55 gallon tank and it is stocked with 2 pleco's, a balla
shark and 7 small other tetras. My problem is that the tank will not
get uncloudy and there is a gleen algae at the bottom of the tank. I
have tested the ph and it is at between 7.0 - 7.2. I tested my
nitrate/nitrite levels and my nitrate level is 0 but my nitrite level
is 3.0 ( which it says is stress ) how do I get the nitrite levels
down?? The temp of the tank is 75 degrees. I am currently using
Cycle once a week and stress coat when there is a water change. I
have been doing 20% water changes once a day to get rid of the cloudy
water and the algae...should I be doing this. Can anyone give me some
advise please.

Thanks very much
Steve






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16679 From: Dmitry V Gorelov Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Hi Steve,
There are more experienced guys then me here -- they will probably responde
also. How old is your tank? IMHO it seems that your tank is not fully cycled
yet. Take a look at http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-cycling.html for instance.
There is a ton of nice pages about it -- I do not have them handy at the
moment.
Good luck,
Dmitry

Steve Martinez writes:

> Hey Guys
>
> I have a little problem ...I think..
>
> I have a 55 gallon tank and it is stocked with 2 pleco's, a balla
> shark and 7 small other tetras. My problem is that the tank will not
> get uncloudy and there is a gleen algae at the bottom of the tank. I
> have tested the ph and it is at between 7.0 - 7.2. I tested my
> nitrate/nitrite levels and my nitrate level is 0 but my nitrite level
> is 3.0 ( which it says is stress ) how do I get the nitrite levels
> down?? The temp of the tank is 75 degrees. I am currently using
> Cycle once a week and stress coat when there is a water change. I
> have been doing 20% water changes once a day to get rid of the cloudy
> water and the algae...should I be doing this. Can anyone give me some
> advise please.
>
> Thanks very much
> Steve
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16680 From: Steve Martinez Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Demitry

My tank is about 1 month old

Steve

--- Dmitry V Gorelov <gorelov@...> wrote:

> Hi Steve,
> There are more experienced guys then me here -- they will probably responde
> also. How old is your tank? IMHO it seems that your tank is not fully cycled
> yet. Take a look at http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-cycling.html for instance.
> There is a ton of nice pages about it -- I do not have them handy at the
> moment.
> Good luck,
> Dmitry
>
> Steve Martinez writes:
>
> > Hey Guys
> >
> > I have a little problem ...I think..
> >
> > I have a 55 gallon tank and it is stocked with 2 pleco's, a balla
> > shark and 7 small other tetras. My problem is that the tank will not
> > get uncloudy and there is a gleen algae at the bottom of the tank. I
> > have tested the ph and it is at between 7.0 - 7.2. I tested my
> > nitrate/nitrite levels and my nitrate level is 0 but my nitrite level
> > is 3.0 ( which it says is stress ) how do I get the nitrite levels
> > down?? The temp of the tank is 75 degrees. I am currently using
> > Cycle once a week and stress coat when there is a water change. I
> > have been doing 20% water changes once a day to get rid of the cloudy
> > water and the algae...should I be doing this. Can anyone give me some
> > advise please.
> >
> > Thanks very much
> > Steve
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if
> CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re:
> old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16681 From: Dmitry V Gorelov Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Steve,
It looks more and more like your tank did not finish it's initial cycling
yet. The cycling is slowed down buy the water changes (that you should
definitely do, otherwise your fish can get hurt by ammonia and nitrite).
After the tank will finish cycling (2-3 more months? may be earlier?) the
cloudiness in the water will disappear (it is actually the bacteria
blooming).

I guess you should keep doing you daily WC. I use only the "Prime" for the
dechlorination, but you might be better of with what you are using right now
-- definitely with the Stress Coat, I think. I am not familiar with the
Cycle Once -- somebody might give you better information on this one.
Good luck,
Dmitry

Steve Martinez writes:

> Demitry
>
> My tank is about 1 month old
>
> Steve
>
> --- Dmitry V Gorelov <gorelov@...> wrote:
>
>> Hi Steve,
>> There are more experienced guys then me here -- they will probably responde
>> also. How old is your tank? IMHO it seems that your tank is not fully cycled
>> yet. Take a look at http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-cycling.html for instance.
>> There is a ton of nice pages about it -- I do not have them handy at the
>> moment.
>> Good luck,
>> Dmitry
>>
>> Steve Martinez writes:
>>
>> > Hey Guys
>> >
>> > I have a little problem ...I think..
>> >
>> > I have a 55 gallon tank and it is stocked with 2 pleco's, a balla
>> > shark and 7 small other tetras. My problem is that the tank will not
>> > get uncloudy and there is a gleen algae at the bottom of the tank. I
>> > have tested the ph and it is at between 7.0 - 7.2. I tested my
>> > nitrate/nitrite levels and my nitrate level is 0 but my nitrite level
>> > is 3.0 ( which it says is stress ) how do I get the nitrite levels
>> > down?? The temp of the tank is 75 degrees. I am currently using
>> > Cycle once a week and stress coat when there is a water change. I
>> > have been doing 20% water changes once a day to get rid of the cloudy
>> > water and the algae...should I be doing this. Can anyone give me some
>> > advise please.
>> >
>> > Thanks very much
>> > Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16682 From: Steve Martinez Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Dmitry

Thanks for the advise.. I will continue doing that water changes. How much longer should I do the
water changes for?

Steve

--- Dmitry V Gorelov <gorelov@...> wrote:

> Steve,
> It looks more and more like your tank did not finish it's initial cycling
> yet. The cycling is slowed down buy the water changes (that you should
> definitely do, otherwise your fish can get hurt by ammonia and nitrite).
> After the tank will finish cycling (2-3 more months? may be earlier?) the
> cloudiness in the water will disappear (it is actually the bacteria
> blooming).
>
> I guess you should keep doing you daily WC. I use only the "Prime" for the
> dechlorination, but you might be better of with what you are using right now
> -- definitely with the Stress Coat, I think. I am not familiar with the
> Cycle Once -- somebody might give you better information on this one.
> Good luck,
> Dmitry
>
> Steve Martinez writes:
>
> > Demitry
> >
> > My tank is about 1 month old
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > --- Dmitry V Gorelov <gorelov@...> wrote:
> >
> >> Hi Steve,
> >> There are more experienced guys then me here -- they will probably responde
> >> also. How old is your tank? IMHO it seems that your tank is not fully cycled
> >> yet. Take a look at http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-cycling.html for instance.
> >> There is a ton of nice pages about it -- I do not have them handy at the
> >> moment.
> >> Good luck,
> >> Dmitry
> >>
> >> Steve Martinez writes:
> >>
> >> > Hey Guys
> >> >
> >> > I have a little problem ...I think..
> >> >
> >> > I have a 55 gallon tank and it is stocked with 2 pleco's, a balla
> >> > shark and 7 small other tetras. My problem is that the tank will not
> >> > get uncloudy and there is a gleen algae at the bottom of the tank. I
> >> > have tested the ph and it is at between 7.0 - 7.2. I tested my
> >> > nitrate/nitrite levels and my nitrate level is 0 but my nitrite level
> >> > is 3.0 ( which it says is stress ) how do I get the nitrite levels
> >> > down?? The temp of the tank is 75 degrees. I am currently using
> >> > Cycle once a week and stress coat when there is a water change. I
> >> > have been doing 20% water changes once a day to get rid of the cloudy
> >> > water and the algae...should I be doing this. Can anyone give me some
> >> > advise please.
> >> >
> >> > Thanks very much
> >> > Steve
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16683 From: harry perry Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????/Steve
I would stop the chemicals alltogether and only do a water change once a week. Sounds like the tank is trying to cycle. Let it be for a week. It also sounds like a case of overfeeding. Once a day or everyother day is fine.

Harry

Steve Martinez <sdm1969@...> wrote: Hey Guys

I have a little problem ...I think..

I have a 55 gallon tank and it is stocked with 2 pleco's, a balla
shark and 7 small other tetras. My problem is that the tank will not
get uncloudy and there is a gleen algae at the bottom of the tank. I
have tested the ph and it is at between 7.0 - 7.2. I tested my
nitrate/nitrite levels and my nitrate level is 0 but my nitrite level
is 3.0 ( which it says is stress ) how do I get the nitrite levels
down?? The temp of the tank is 75 degrees. I am currently using
Cycle once a week and stress coat when there is a water change. I
have been doing 20% water changes once a day to get rid of the cloudy
water and the algae...should I be doing this. Can anyone give me some
advise please.

Thanks very much
Steve






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16684 From: Dmitry V Gorelov Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
Steve,
I think you should do the WC untill the nitrite reading will fall to zero
just to prevent you fish from poisoning.
Dmitry


Steve Martinez writes:

> Dmitry
>
> Thanks for the advise.. I will continue doing that water changes. How much longer should I do the
> water changes for?
>
> Steve
>
> --- Dmitry V Gorelov <gorelov@...> wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>> It looks more and more like your tank did not finish it's initial cycling
>> yet. The cycling is slowed down buy the water changes (that you should
>> definitely do, otherwise your fish can get hurt by ammonia and nitrite).
>> After the tank will finish cycling (2-3 more months? may be earlier?) the
>> cloudiness in the water will disappear (it is actually the bacteria
>> blooming).
>>
>> I guess you should keep doing you daily WC. I use only the "Prime" for the
>> dechlorination, but you might be better of with what you are using right now
>> -- definitely with the Stress Coat, I think. I am not familiar with the
>> Cycle Once -- somebody might give you better information on this one.
>> Good luck,
>> Dmitry
>>
>> Steve Martinez writes:
>>
>> > Demitry
>> >
>> > My tank is about 1 month old
>> >
>> > Steve
>> >
>> > --- Dmitry V Gorelov <gorelov@...> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hi Steve,
>> >> There are more experienced guys then me here -- they will probably responde
>> >> also. How old is your tank? IMHO it seems that your tank is not fully cycled
>> >> yet. Take a look at http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-cycling.html for instance.
>> >> There is a ton of nice pages about it -- I do not have them handy at the
>> >> moment.
>> >> Good luck,
>> >> Dmitry
>> >>
>> >> Steve Martinez writes:
>> >>
>> >> > Hey Guys
>> >> >
>> >> > I have a little problem ...I think..
>> >> >
>> >> > I have a 55 gallon tank and it is stocked with 2 pleco's, a balla
>> >> > shark and 7 small other tetras. My problem is that the tank will not
>> >> > get uncloudy and there is a gleen algae at the bottom of the tank. I
>> >> > have tested the ph and it is at between 7.0 - 7.2. I tested my
>> >> > nitrate/nitrite levels and my nitrate level is 0 but my nitrite level
>> >> > is 3.0 ( which it says is stress ) how do I get the nitrite levels
>> >> > down?? The temp of the tank is 75 degrees. I am currently using
>> >> > Cycle once a week and stress coat when there is a water change. I
>> >> > have been doing 20% water changes once a day to get rid of the cloudy
>> >> > water and the algae...should I be doing this. Can anyone give me some
>> >> > advise please.
>> >> >
>> >> > Thanks very much
>> >> > Steve
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16685 From: cody adams Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: hello everyone
I have a question i have a 55 gallon tank and i am not sure what to put
in it , i have a 125 gallon to that i will set up later but right now i
am worried about the 55 gallon any suggestions , i was thinking about
bucktooth tetras any suggestions from anyone , i want aggressive fish ,
i have had over the years , jaguars, doviis, red devils, red terrors,
green terrors, buterkofi, jack dempseys , flower horns, and texas
cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16686 From: kristopher helsing Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: hello everyone
Personally i love Bichirs! they are bad ass..

cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: I have a question i have a 55 gallon tank and i am not sure what to put
in it , i have a 125 gallon to that i will set up later but right now i
am worried about the 55 gallon any suggestions , i was thinking about
bucktooth tetras any suggestions from anyone , i want aggressive fish ,
i have had over the years , jaguars, doviis, red devils, red terrors,
green terrors, buterkofi, jack dempseys , flower horns, and texas
cichlids






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16687 From: Brian Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: one more cleaning question
The tank I got had a nice piece of wood in it and I would like to put
it back in the tank. However I need to clean it before I do. How
should I go about cleaning it? If I use bleach I am worried it will
bleach the wood and the bleach will soak in to the wood, should I use
see salt water if so how strong?


Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16688 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 3/13/2006
Subject: Re: Can any member give me some help?????
add some plants. Something may have knocked the beneficial bacterium out of
whack...let it cycle again. Also, what how much you are feeding them...you
may be overloading the system with excess food causing the imbalance The
water changes could also be impeding the re-cycling. As long as the fish
seem healthy...you may be fine.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Martinez
Sent: Monday, 13 March 2006 05:22
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Can any member give me some help?????


Hey Guys

I have a little problem ...I think..

I have a 55 gallon tank and it is stocked with 2 pleco's, a balla
shark and 7 small other tetras. My problem is that the tank will not
get uncloudy and there is a gleen algae at the bottom of the tank. I
have tested the ph and it is at between 7.0 - 7.2. I tested my
nitrate/nitrite levels and my nitrate level is 0 but my nitrite level
is 3.0 ( which it says is stress ) how do I get the nitrite levels
down?? The temp of the tank is 75 degrees. I am currently using
Cycle once a week and stress coat when there is a water change. I
have been doing 20% water changes once a day to get rid of the cloudy
water and the algae...should I be doing this. Can anyone give me some
advise please.

Thanks very much
Steve






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16689 From: Dmitry V Gorelov Date: 3/14/2006
Subject: Re: one more cleaning question
Hi Brian,
I've soaked/washed mine in the bleach (probably a bit too strong solution)
and then soaked in a bucket of water (used hot one from the tub) with fair
amount of declorinator (like 5x times normal) for a week. The piece of wood
came out white as a bone, but in a month or so in the tank it darkened back
to what it used to be. I did not use see salt -- I think it is doable, just
a bit more time soaking would be needed, but this is just a guess.
Good luck,
Dmitry


Brian writes:

> The tank I got had a nice piece of wood in it and I would like to put
> it back in the tank. However I need to clean it before I do. How
> should I go about cleaning it? If I use bleach I am worried it will
> bleach the wood and the bleach will soak in to the wood, should I use
> see salt water if so how strong?
>
>
> Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16690 From: cody adams Date: 3/14/2006
Subject: a question
so in ur opinion whats is the most aggressive cichlids
. as far as me i have yet had any of mine reach full
maturity but in my 55 gallon at set up before i moved
i had a pair of jaguars and a pair of red devils ,
jewel cichlids and green terrors, at first the
jauguars ruled the tank especially the biggest one,
but i went over seas for two months and when i came
back the big jaugar got killed and eaten , i do not
know how i think my room mate did not feed then , but
after the big one died the big red devil took over the
tank. then when i had my other 125 gallon tank , my
buterkofi ruled over about 4 red devils, two doviis ,
a jack , two flower horns and a flordia gar which was
left alone but the red devil would challenge him and
the doviis were not big enough yet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16691 From: Saphire Draco Date: 3/15/2006
Subject: New member
Hi,

My name is Jennifer and I'm the owner of four
freshwater tanks. Largest is a 30 gallon tall
livebearing tank, the second is a 20 gallon tank that
is waiting for a new group of fish to call it home,
the third is a 15 gallon tall that is a female betta
tank and the last is a ten gallon used for breeding.

I have currently, three male betta, 2 female, around
10 to 12 platy, two silver molly and six green
corries.

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16692 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 3/16/2006
Subject: Re: New member
Welcome to the group Jennifer. It sounds like you have a nice set up there.
Enjoy the group you will certainly learn a lot here. Take care and have a
great day.



Shane

www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Saphire Draco
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 10:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New member



Hi,

My name is Jennifer and I'm the owner of four
freshwater tanks. Largest is a 30 gallon tall
livebearing tank, the second is a 20 gallon tank that
is waiting for a new group of fish to call it home,
the third is a 15 gallon tall that is a female betta
tank and the last is a ten gallon used for breeding.

I have currently, three male betta, 2 female, around
10 to 12 platy, two silver molly and six green
corries.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




_____

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16693 From: Ash Date: 3/16/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1147
my oscars are particularly agressive...

----- Original Message -----
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 05:20:47 -0000
From: "cody adams" <cornbread_05@...>
Subject: a question

so in ur opinion whats is the most aggressive cichlids
. as far as me i have yet had any of mine reach full
maturity but in my 55 gallon at set up before i moved
i had a pair of jaguars and a pair of red devils ,
jewel cichlids and green terrors, at first the
jauguars ruled the tank especially the biggest one,
but i went over seas for two months and when i came
back the big jaugar got killed and eaten , i do not
know how i think my room mate did not feed then , but
after the big one died the big red devil took over the
tank. then when i had my other 125 gallon tank , my
buterkofi ruled over about 4 red devils, two doviis ,
a jack , two flower horns and a flordia gar which was
left alone but the red devil would challenge him and
the doviis were not big enough yet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16694 From: Alesha-Animal and Anime lover! Date: 3/18/2006
Subject: New Here!
Hello,my name is Alesha. And,I'm new here! I have 3 fish,2 guppies,and
1 pleco. And,1 snail. I might be getting a betta,soon,also. And,I will
be getting more guppies,for the Male.


Thank you for letting me join.



Love,
Alesha.- betta lover
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16695 From: harry perry Date: 3/18/2006
Subject: A true story
We all know that fish aren't capable of emotion, or are they?

This is a true story, it really happened.

A 30 gal. community tank mostly gouramis.

I noticed my powder blue was in trouble. No outward signs and a hundred options of what was going on inside.I decided to let nature take it's course.

I noticed a dwarf gourami in close contact to the blue. At first I thought the dwarf was going to take advantage of the situation by showing an aggressive behavior.That wasn't the case.

The dwarf was actually pinning the blue against the glass to hold it upright. I chased the dwarf away because I thought it was an aggressive behavior. The blue turned on it's side and the dwarf came back to upright it.

The blue eventually expired. I found the fish in my heavily planted take because the dwarf was hovering above the body.

We all know this isn't suppose to happen, but it did.

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16696 From: kevin shaw Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story
WOW ..

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: We all know that fish aren't capable of emotion, or are they?

This is a true story, it really happened.

A 30 gal. community tank mostly gouramis.

I noticed my powder blue was in trouble. No outward signs and a hundred options of what was going on inside. I decided to let nature take it's course.

I noticed a dwarf gourami in close contact to the blue. At first I thought the dwarf was going to take advantage of the situation by showing an aggressive behavior. That wasn't the case.

The dwarf was actually pinning the blue against the glass to hold it upright. I chased the dwarf away because I thought it was an aggressive behavior. The blue turned on it's side and the dwarf came back to upright it.

The blue eventually expired. I found the fish in my heavily planted take because the dwarf was hovering above the body.

We all know this isn't suppose to happen, but it did.

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Travel
Find great deals to the top 10 hottest destinations!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16697 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story
Amazing!!!
Have always been a firm believer that fish have "emotions" "comradery""bad fin days" etc...
Bought a pair of adult Kribs a while back, they had come out of a large community tank at a LFS, got them home set up in their own tank. Well after watching them for a few days, they looked really "depressed" so went to the guru's shop to talk to him, he wasn't in but the young guy who works for him was. Was telling him they were depressed, he of course firmly believes I'm crazy fish don't get depressed. I continue to tell him I know my fish they are not happy. So finally after a few minutes of debating the "fish have emotions" and what can I put in with them, get some ruby tetras (spelling/name) Get the tetras home, acclimated, released, wouldn't you know it, they were just happy as clams to have friends!!

Shannon

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
We all know that fish aren't capable of emotion, or are they?

This is a true story, it really happened.

A 30 gal. community tank mostly gouramis.

I noticed my powder blue was in trouble. No outward signs and a hundred options of what was going on inside.I decided to let nature take it's course.

I noticed a dwarf gourami in close contact to the blue. At first I thought the dwarf was going to take advantage of the situation by showing an aggressive behavior.That wasn't the case.

The dwarf was actually pinning the blue against the glass to hold it upright. I chased the dwarf away because I thought it was an aggressive behavior. The blue turned on it's side and the dwarf came back to upright it.

The blue eventually expired. I found the fish in my heavily planted take because the dwarf was hovering above the body.

We all know this isn't suppose to happen, but it did.

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Travel
Find great deals to the top 10 hottest destinations!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16698 From: harry perry Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story/Shannon
How do you know if a clam is happy??????

Harry

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote: Amazing!!!
Have always been a firm believer that fish have "emotions" "comradery""bad fin days" etc...
Bought a pair of adult Kribs a while back, they had come out of a large community tank at a LFS, got them home set up in their own tank. Well after watching them for a few days, they looked really "depressed" so went to the guru's shop to talk to him, he wasn't in but the young guy who works for him was. Was telling him they were depressed, he of course firmly believes I'm crazy fish don't get depressed. I continue to tell him I know my fish they are not happy. So finally after a few minutes of debating the "fish have emotions" and what can I put in with them, get some ruby tetras (spelling/name) Get the tetras home, acclimated, released, wouldn't you know it, they were just happy as clams to have friends!!

Shannon

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
We all know that fish aren't capable of emotion, or are they?

This is a true story, it really happened.

A 30 gal. community tank mostly gouramis.

I noticed my powder blue was in trouble. No outward signs and a hundred options of what was going on inside.I decided to let nature take it's course.

I noticed a dwarf gourami in close contact to the blue. At first I thought the dwarf was going to take advantage of the situation by showing an aggressive behavior.That wasn't the case.

The dwarf was actually pinning the blue against the glass to hold it upright. I chased the dwarf away because I thought it was an aggressive behavior. The blue turned on it's side and the dwarf came back to upright it.

The blue eventually expired. I found the fish in my heavily planted take because the dwarf was hovering above the body.

We all know this isn't suppose to happen, but it did.

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Travel
Find great deals to the top 10 hottest destinations!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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---------------------------------
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---------------------------------





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16699 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story/Shannon
Harry,
Lol good point, not like they have alot of social interaction. How about happy as happy can be a Krib with company to hang with in their krib

Shannon

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
How do you know if a clam is happy??????

Harry

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote: Amazing!!!
Have always been a firm believer that fish have "emotions" "comradery""bad fin days" etc...
Bought a pair of adult Kribs a while back, they had come out of a large community tank at a LFS, got them home set up in their own tank. Well after watching them for a few days, they looked really "depressed" so went to the guru's shop to talk to him, he wasn't in but the young guy who works for him was. Was telling him they were depressed, he of course firmly believes I'm crazy fish don't get depressed. I continue to tell him I know my fish they are not happy. So finally after a few minutes of debating the "fish have emotions" and what can I put in with them, get some ruby tetras (spelling/name) Get the tetras home, acclimated, released, wouldn't you know it, they were just happy as clams to have friends!!

Shannon

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
We all know that fish aren't capable of emotion, or are they?

This is a true story, it really happened.

A 30 gal. community tank mostly gouramis.

I noticed my powder blue was in trouble. No outward signs and a hundred options of what was going on inside.I decided to let nature take it's course.

I noticed a dwarf gourami in close contact to the blue. At first I thought the dwarf was going to take advantage of the situation by showing an aggressive behavior.That wasn't the case.

The dwarf was actually pinning the blue against the glass to hold it upright. I chased the dwarf away because I thought it was an aggressive behavior. The blue turned on it's side and the dwarf came back to upright it.

The blue eventually expired. I found the fish in my heavily planted take because the dwarf was hovering above the body.

We all know this isn't suppose to happen, but it did.

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Travel
Find great deals to the top 10 hottest destinations!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16700 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story/Shannon
Not trying to negate fish emotion or intelligence but the tetras act as
dither fish and swim about the tank and make the other fish feel secure. This
allows them to come out of hiding or sulking and move about the tank.

I have used this method with cichlids that tend to hide until the dither
fish are introduced.
Mike

In a message dated 3/19/2006 7:44:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,

So finally after a few minutes of debating the "fish have emotions" and what
can I put in with them, get some ruby tetras (spelling/name) Get the tetras
home, acclimated, released, wouldn't you know it, they were just happy as
clams to have friends!!

Shannon






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16701 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: A true story/Happy Clams
Yep. When I had my danios out, my other fish became bored and
aggressive. I put the danions back in and they were again fine and out
as usual.
Oh, and my fish do get depressed, happy, etc... =) Right now they are
all happy as "clams." I think they say clams are happy because it looks
like they are smiling with that giant "smiling" space between top and
bottom shell.
Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 12:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] A true story/Shannon



Not trying to negate fish emotion or intelligence but the tetras act as

dither fish and swim about the tank and make the other fish feel secure.
This
allows them to come out of hiding or sulking and move about the tank.

I have used this method with cichlids that tend to hide until the dither

fish are introduced.
Mike

In a message dated 3/19/2006 7:44:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,

So finally after a few minutes of debating the "fish have emotions" and
what
can I put in with them, get some ruby tetras (spelling/name) Get the
tetras
home, acclimated, released, wouldn't you know it, they were just happy
as
clams to have friends!!

Shannon






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16702 From: Gregg Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: New member in DFW,TX
Hello all

My name is Gregg and I am in Cleburne, south of Ft.Worth,TX. Any other members in the DFW,Ft.Worth area?


Thanks,
Gregg


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16703 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Tetras Breeding
Hi All,

I saw a very young Black Neon Tetra, about a week or 2 old in the
tank today while I was cleaning.

Tetras lay eggs right?

I've had livebears before, but that got out of control, especially
those guppies. This new tetra was a real suprise. There is a male
Betta in the tank, I put him in the breeding net to keep him
isolated so he won't eat the baby.

Does anybody have experience with breeding tetras?
How many eggs vs fry are there?
What do the eggs look like?

There are about 15 Regular Neons and 5 or 6 Adult Black Neons. Its a
55 gallon with lots of Hornwort, driftwood and Java Moss several
inches thick - that's where the fry was hiding.

Do the regular Neons breed in captivity also?

Any info is helpful.

Thanks,
Aaron
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16704 From: SuNnY Date: 3/19/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Breeding
HI Aaron,

Congratulations ! This is the first time i have heard Neons breeding in Captivity. I had earlie read that they dont do so and are cought in the wild only.

Do keep us posted and If you could post a few photos of your tank that would be appreciated.....

Cheers.....SuNnY !


"Aaron R. Martin" <anonymous122899@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I saw a very young Black Neon Tetra, about a week or 2 old in the
tank today while I was cleaning.

Tetras lay eggs right?

I've had livebears before, but that got out of control, especially
those guppies. This new tetra was a real suprise. There is a male
Betta in the tank, I put him in the breeding net to keep him
isolated so he won't eat the baby.

Does anybody have experience with breeding tetras?
How many eggs vs fry are there?
What do the eggs look like?

There are about 15 Regular Neons and 5 or 6 Adult Black Neons. Its a
55 gallon with lots of Hornwort, driftwood and Java Moss several
inches thick - that's where the fry was hiding.

Do the regular Neons breed in captivity also?

Any info is helpful.

Thanks,
Aaron






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16705 From: hank voss Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Breeding
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron R. Martin"
<anonymous122899@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I saw a very young Black Neon Tetra, about a week or 2 old in the
> tank today while I was cleaning.
> Does anybody have experience with breeding tetras?
> How many eggs vs fry are there?
> What do the eggs look like?
> Do the regular Neons breed in captivity also?

================= ================= =============

Aaron:
Yes tetras are eeg layers. Depending on the age and size of
the fish will determine the amount of eggs they produce.The eggs
usually dont survive in a comm. tank because all the other fish
including the parents eat them.The only reason that one survived
was that you had a lot of plants esp.Java moss in there.Thats where
he found food and safety.The eggs are like small clear pinheads
usually attached to the plants and usually hatch around 36 hrs.The
amount of eggs will vary from species to species,50 to several
hundred.Survival rate also varies from fish to fish( black neons on
the high end and neons onthe lower end).The fry ned infusoria for
their first food which they got within the java moss.
Most tetras prefer soft acid water but will also bred in mod.
hard water.Regular neons eggs have a rather poor survival rate,i
myself would get about a 25%-50% hatch the fry are very smallAll reg
neons are not tank raised because theyare imported in such large
numbers from S Amer. and the far east at low cost,it just not worth
the effort to raise them,except for fun.Congratulations for even
raising one in a comm. tank.If you need more info. post again.

Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16706 From: cody adams Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: hello
can anybody tell me anything about red terrors ? how big they get and
how aggressive they are . and there coloring and i am talking about a
true red terror.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16707 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: Re: A true story
harry, that's a cool story. both fish were males i
take it?

--- harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:

> We all know that fish aren't capable of emotion, or
> are they?
>
> This is a true story, it really happened.
>
> A 30 gal. community tank mostly gouramis.
>
> I noticed my powder blue was in trouble. No outward
> signs and a hundred options of what was going on
> inside.I decided to let nature take it's course.
>
> I noticed a dwarf gourami in close contact to the
> blue. At first I thought the dwarf was going to take
> advantage of the situation by showing an aggressive
> behavior.That wasn't the case.
>
> The dwarf was actually pinning the blue against the
> glass to hold it upright. I chased the dwarf away
> because I thought it was an aggressive behavior. The
> blue turned on it's side and the dwarf came back to
> upright it.
>
> The blue eventually expired. I found the fish in my
> heavily planted take because the dwarf was hovering
> above the body.
>
> We all know this isn't suppose to happen, but it
> did.
>
> Harry
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Travel
> Find great deals to the top 10 hottest
> destinations!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16708 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Breeding
Given the right conditions, it is rather easy to breed neons. The economics
of it, however, dictate that most neons are wild caught.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of SuNnY
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 2:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Tetras Breeding

HI Aaron,

Congratulations ! This is the first time i have heard Neons breeding in
Captivity. I had earlie read that they dont do so and are cought in the wild
only.

Do keep us posted and If you could post a few photos of your tank that
would be appreciated.....

Cheers.....SuNnY !


"Aaron R. Martin" <anonymous122899@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I saw a very young Black Neon Tetra, about a week or 2 old in the
tank today while I was cleaning.

Tetras lay eggs right?

I've had livebears before, but that got out of control, especially
those guppies. This new tetra was a real suprise. There is a male
Betta in the tank, I put him in the breeding net to keep him
isolated so he won't eat the baby.

Does anybody have experience with breeding tetras?
How many eggs vs fry are there?
What do the eggs look like?

There are about 15 Regular Neons and 5 or 6 Adult Black Neons. Its a
55 gallon with lots of Hornwort, driftwood and Java Moss several
inches thick - that's where the fry was hiding.

Do the regular Neons breed in captivity also?

Any info is helpful.

Thanks,
Aaron






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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kingdom South africa

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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16709 From: dawnmvo Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: I've got something goin on????
Hey

I have one fish with some white stuff on his fin, and one of the
others with it on his fin, eye and lip. I can't see it on any of the
others...yet. Any idea what this could be??
I have some Melafix here I could put in but the expiry on it is 05
07. Not sure which is the year and month.
Or if I should be even giving Melafix???

Thanks
Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16710 From: harry perry Date: 3/20/2006
Subject: Re: A true story/Valeen
Yes they were.

Valeen Gonzalez <valeendgonzalez@...> wrote: harry, that's a cool story. both fish were males i
take it?

--- harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:

> We all know that fish aren't capable of emotion, or
> are they?
>
> This is a true story, it really happened.
>
> A 30 gal. community tank mostly gouramis.
>
> I noticed my powder blue was in trouble. No outward
> signs and a hundred options of what was going on
> inside.I decided to let nature take it's course.
>
> I noticed a dwarf gourami in close contact to the
> blue. At first I thought the dwarf was going to take
> advantage of the situation by showing an aggressive
> behavior.That wasn't the case.
>
> The dwarf was actually pinning the blue against the
> glass to hold it upright. I chased the dwarf away
> because I thought it was an aggressive behavior. The
> blue turned on it's side and the dwarf came back to
> upright it.
>
> The blue eventually expired. I found the fish in my
> heavily planted take because the dwarf was hovering
> above the body.
>
> We all know this isn't suppose to happen, but it
> did.
>
> Harry
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Travel
> Find great deals to the top 10 hottest
> destinations!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

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---------------------------------





Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16711 From: paul whitby Date: 3/22/2006
Subject: hello all
Hi..
Iv just joined this group , Ill post some pix of my set up when i
figure out how to stop my pix from looking all Blurred..!!
TTFN
Paul ( Essex UK )
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16712 From: Ro Date: 3/22/2006
Subject: trip to brazil & peru
Hi, mi wife and I are interested in taking a collecting trip to brazil
and Peru and I would like to know if any of you know of a group that
we could join or the laws and requirements to bring the fish back to
the US… Thank you for the info…
Rodrigo
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16713 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/23/2006
Subject: Re: hello all
Paul,

I believe if you search the archives here, you will find a thread or two
about photography of fish in the tank. It is not the easiest trick in the
book to do. Pretty much, focus on one spot in the tank, and wait for the
fish to enter the focus area, then take your picture. There are a number of
tricks to prevent flashback (the glare from the flash coming off the glass
of the tank). You can take good photos, you just need to learn patience.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of paul whitby
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 11:22 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] hello all

Hi..
Iv just joined this group , Ill post some pix of my set up when i
figure out how to stop my pix from looking all Blurred..!!
TTFN
Paul ( Essex UK )







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16714 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/23/2006
Subject: Re: trip to brazil & peru
Check out this web site: http://www.amazon-ecotours.com/expeditions.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ro
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 1:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] trip to brazil & peru

Hi, mi wife and I are interested in taking a collecting trip to brazil
and Peru and I would like to know if any of you know of a group that
we could join or the laws and requirements to bring the fish back to
the US… Thank you for the info…
Rodrigo









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16715 From: paul Date: 3/23/2006
Subject: Re: hello all
Thanks for the info Steve....
Iv got a few pix now but they wont up-load to the group ...i keep getting a yahoo error..
Ill keep trying ...
Thanks
Paul.


Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Paul,

I believe if you search the archives here, you will find a thread or two
about photography of fish in the tank. It is not the easiest trick in the
book to do. Pretty much, focus on one spot in the tank, and wait for the
fish to enter the focus area, then take your picture. There are a number of
tricks to prevent flashback (the glare from the flash coming off the glass
of the tank). You can take good photos, you just need to learn patience.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of paul whitby
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 11:22 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] hello all

Hi..
Iv just joined this group , Ill post some pix of my set up when i
figure out how to stop my pix from looking all Blurred..!!
TTFN
Paul ( Essex UK )







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16716 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/23/2006
Subject: Re: trip to brazil & peru
Rodrigo,
I believe their is a small Yahoo group for collecting expeditions, you might
ask their to see if anyone has information.
The best groups I know of to ask questions on collecting is the
_sacsg@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:sacsg@yahoogroups.com) many members have gone
collecting, some are authors in the fish hobby and cichlid hobby.

My local aquarium society has a lot of guest speakers and one of them had
been collecting in Brazil in the last couple years and mentioned that exporting
fish from Brazil is very difficult right now. Brazil has made it very
difficult for hobbyist collectors to export, people with University credentials
(Biologists, etc.) have a better chance of getting permits to export.
I think another option is to collect the fish and have one of the fish
collecting exporting business export the fish for you (for a fee of course).

Please let us know where you go and how your trip was.

Mike




To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] trip to brazil & peru

Hi, mi wife and I are interested in taking a collecting trip to brazil
and Peru and I would like to know if any of you know of a group that
we could join or the laws and requirements to bring the fish back to
the US… Thank you for the info…
Rodrigo







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16717 From: paul whitby Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Hello Re: Oscars
Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times a
day witch seams a bit too much.
Thanks
Paul.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16718 From: harry perry Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars/Feeding monsters.
Try feeder gold fish. I hope you realize that when they are full grown at approx. 12" they will require approx. 80 gals. per fish. Per a Google search. Good luck with your monsters I can't afford them.

Harry

paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote: Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times a
day witch seams a bit too much.
Thanks
Paul.






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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16719 From: paul Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars/Feeding monsters.
Thanks for the info Harry....Ill get some Gold fish today....As for there size , thats ok as iv put them in my 6x2x2 foot tank together with my 2 walking cats.
Again thanks for your help.
Paul

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
Try feeder gold fish. I hope you realize that when they are full grown at approx. 12" they will require approx. 80 gals. per fish. Per a Google search. Good luck with your monsters I can't afford them.

Harry

paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote: Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times a
day witch seams a bit too much.
Thanks
Paul.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16720 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Hello Re: Oscars
Paul, Not sure what you mean by "nothing is working very well".
Working to do what? What are you attempting to do with the food
concerning the Oscars, or what do you expect the Oscars to be doing
with the food? Are you attempting to condition them up sufficiently
for breeding? Is it that they just aren't eating at all? Is it that
you're trying to get them to grow
faster?
\
If they are eating and you're trying to put more size on them
faster, the first thing to keep in mind is to have them housed in as
large a tank as you can swing right now. You also baven't indicated
how many Oscars you have. For two 6" Oscars, a 50 gallon tank at
this time would not be too small; to be upgraded as they increase in
size, or a larger tank now if you have many more of them.
\
Feeding them (or any other juvenile fish) 3 times a day, or up to 5
times, is not to much if you want maximum growth out of them. While
you should be doing large and frequent water changes even right now,
which is imperitive to their growth, you will need to increase that
schedule if you increase their feeding. If you're not keeping up
with frequent water changes right now, that may be part of your
problem if you are not seeing much growth.
\
Getting right down to the food, unless you can afford it, I would not
suggest feeding them goldfish even though that will add growth to
them. With Oscars, once they get to like a particular food, they
become partial to it so much so that they may refuse most other foods
offered them, and you willhave little choice other than to continue
feeding them goldfish (and sometimes nothing else, depending upon how
finicky they may become). There are many other foods you can give
them which will put on growth (and be a more balanced diet); which
should be varied. Nothing wrong with what you are already feeding
them added to several other good foods. You can try a variety and
proper size of some Cichlid growth pellets as well as frozen (thawed)
mysis shrimp and nightcrawlers, cut in half if need be (or
earthworms). A word of caution about feeder goldfish -- if you do
attempt feeding this food, quarantine them first before feeding them
to your Oscars. There have been more than just a few Oscars sickened
(or lost) by feeding them diseased goldfish. Regards, Ray
>
> Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
> Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
> They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times
a
> day witch seams a bit too much.
> Thanks
> Paul.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16721 From: paul whitby Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Pix posted
Hi all.. Iv just posted a pic of one of my Red Oscars..
Its under Paul's pix.
Hope u like as it took me 2 days to get a "OK" pic..!!
Im no David Bailey..lol
Thanks
Paul
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16722 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Hello Re: Oscars/Feeding monsters.
Hi again Paul, I hadn't seen this post until now, but putting the
Oscars in what appears to be about a 180 gallon tank is a wise
decision. While I don't know anything about your water changing
schedule, or frequncy thereof, I can only advise you to keep up with
the water changes; you should soon start to see a difference in their
size. Ray
\
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, paul <paul633uk@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info Harry....Ill get some Gold fish today....As for
there size , thats ok as iv put them in my 6x2x2 foot tank together
with my 2 walking cats.
> Again thanks for your help.
> Paul
>
> harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
> Try feeder gold fish. I hope you realize that when they are full
grown at approx. 12" they will require approx. 80 gals. per fish. Per
a Google search. Good luck with your monsters I can't afford them.
>
> Harry
>
> paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote: Can anyone tell me the best
food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
> Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
> They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times
a
> day witch seams a bit too much.
> Thanks
> Paul.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ���`�.��.><
((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�>
�.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�
((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�
((((><���`�.��.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
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romania San francisco bay
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africa
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>
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((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
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message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16723 From: paul Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Thanks Ray..top chap..
Iv taken in what u say....and as im writing this thay now feeding well on stick food.!
I just got a bit concerned when they did'nt feed for a day , As my Walking cats eat faster then Piranha..!
These are the first oscars iv had in over 15 years of fish keeping so its a big learning curve.
I was given these ( 6in Reds ) by a friend that had to re-house them fast... There in ok condition apart from some old "jewelling" Scars..!

Thanks again for the info you have given me.
Paul .

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
Paul, Not sure what you mean by "nothing is working very well".
Working to do what? What are you attempting to do with the food
concerning the Oscars, or what do you expect the Oscars to be doing
with the food? Are you attempting to condition them up sufficiently
for breeding? Is it that they just aren't eating at all? Is it that
you're trying to get them to grow
faster?
\
If they are eating and you're trying to put more size on them
faster, the first thing to keep in mind is to have them housed in as
large a tank as you can swing right now. You also baven't indicated
how many Oscars you have. For two 6" Oscars, a 50 gallon tank at
this time would not be too small; to be upgraded as they increase in
size, or a larger tank now if you have many more of them.
\
Feeding them (or any other juvenile fish) 3 times a day, or up to 5
times, is not to much if you want maximum growth out of them. While
you should be doing large and frequent water changes even right now,
which is imperitive to their growth, you will need to increase that
schedule if you increase their feeding. If you're not keeping up
with frequent water changes right now, that may be part of your
problem if you are not seeing much growth.
\
Getting right down to the food, unless you can afford it, I would not
suggest feeding them goldfish even though that will add growth to
them. With Oscars, once they get to like a particular food, they
become partial to it so much so that they may refuse most other foods
offered them, and you willhave little choice other than to continue
feeding them goldfish (and sometimes nothing else, depending upon how
finicky they may become). There are many other foods you can give
them which will put on growth (and be a more balanced diet); which
should be varied. Nothing wrong with what you are already feeding
them added to several other good foods. You can try a variety and
proper size of some Cichlid growth pellets as well as frozen (thawed)
mysis shrimp and nightcrawlers, cut in half if need be (or
earthworms). A word of caution about feeder goldfish -- if you do
attempt feeding this food, quarantine them first before feeding them
to your Oscars. There have been more than just a few Oscars sickened
(or lost) by feeding them diseased goldfish. Regards, Ray
>
> Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
> Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
> They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times
a
> day witch seams a bit too much.
> Thanks
> Paul.
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16724 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Paul,
When I had my oscars (traded them in due to not having enough space to breed the pairs that had formed (3) out of 7 fish) but they were fed 3-4 times a day. Gave them cichlid sticks, once or twice a month feeder fish (no goldfish), crickets, mealworms, earthworms, bugs, cichlid pellets, brine shrimp, krill, just about anything and everything they would eat. Didn't ever measure them before I traded them all in, but they touched nose to tail across the inside of a 5gallon bucket.
With my experience (no expert) the fresher the water the better their appetite was, every 2 days I would change at least 15% of the tank, kept them happy, on food, begging and doing all the fun stuff dogs trapped in fish body's do.

Shannon

paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times a
day witch seams a bit too much.
Thanks
Paul.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16725 From: paul Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Thanks for the info Shannon....
Over the past hour or so they have started taking Cichlid sticks and Blood worm..
I was given these fish by a friend that had to find a home quick ... My normal fish are Walking cats and thay eat anyting very fast , so i was a bit consernd when my Oscars did'nt feed for 2 days..!
But now all is fine ... As for water changes i do a 20% change every week on my 6x2x2foot tank so they should be happy ... The only thing now is to cheer up my cats as there no longer " King of the tank"..lol
Thanks again
Paul.

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
Paul,
When I had my oscars (traded them in due to not having enough space to breed the pairs that had formed (3) out of 7 fish) but they were fed 3-4 times a day. Gave them cichlid sticks, once or twice a month feeder fish (no goldfish), crickets, mealworms, earthworms, bugs, cichlid pellets, brine shrimp, krill, just about anything and everything they would eat. Didn't ever measure them before I traded them all in, but they touched nose to tail across the inside of a 5gallon bucket.
With my experience (no expert) the fresher the water the better their appetite was, every 2 days I would change at least 15% of the tank, kept them happy, on food, begging and doing all the fun stuff dogs trapped in fish body's do.

Shannon

paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times a
day witch seams a bit too much.
Thanks
Paul.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16726 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Paul,
funny how the addition of a new fish the attitudes of others get offended LOL know that happens around here on occasion. Forgot to add did feed a variety of frozen foods also.
The cats never had that type, have a big boy albino channel, red tail amazon, mystus, driftwoods (they are my pot bellied pigs of my wet world) and a shovel nose still just a little baby (got to get some pics of him to have him identified all I know about him is he is a shovel nose but not like any I've seen pics of).
Good luck with you Oscars, oh the reason I said that I hadn't fed goldfish to mine was told by a few different people that too many can lead to "hole in the head disease" and they were a tad "pudgy" should give them smaller/quick feeders so they had to work to catch it for excercise LOL

Shannon

paul <paul633uk@...> wrote:
Thanks for the info Shannon....
Over the past hour or so they have started taking Cichlid sticks and Blood worm..
I was given these fish by a friend that had to find a home quick ... My normal fish are Walking cats and thay eat anyting very fast , so i was a bit consernd when my Oscars did'nt feed for 2 days..!
But now all is fine ... As for water changes i do a 20% change every week on my 6x2x2foot tank so they should be happy ... The only thing now is to cheer up my cats as there no longer " King of the tank"..lol
Thanks again
Paul.

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
Paul,
When I had my oscars (traded them in due to not having enough space to breed the pairs that had formed (3) out of 7 fish) but they were fed 3-4 times a day. Gave them cichlid sticks, once or twice a month feeder fish (no goldfish), crickets, mealworms, earthworms, bugs, cichlid pellets, brine shrimp, krill, just about anything and everything they would eat. Didn't ever measure them before I traded them all in, but they touched nose to tail across the inside of a 5gallon bucket.
With my experience (no expert) the fresher the water the better their appetite was, every 2 days I would change at least 15% of the tank, kept them happy, on food, begging and doing all the fun stuff dogs trapped in fish body's do.

Shannon

paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times a
day witch seams a bit too much.
Thanks
Paul.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16727 From: paul Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
hi ..thanks for the info , iv heard of " Hole in the head " sounds very nasty...
They look all happy now ( even though they are sad looking.. lol ) they have just had a good helping of blood worm ..so im happy now ( it dont take much )..

Paul..

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
Paul,
funny how the addition of a new fish the attitudes of others get offended LOL know that happens around here on occasion. Forgot to add did feed a variety of frozen foods also.
The cats never had that type, have a big boy albino channel, red tail amazon, mystus, driftwoods (they are my pot bellied pigs of my wet world) and a shovel nose still just a little baby (got to get some pics of him to have him identified all I know about him is he is a shovel nose but not like any I've seen pics of).
Good luck with you Oscars, oh the reason I said that I hadn't fed goldfish to mine was told by a few different people that too many can lead to "hole in the head disease" and they were a tad "pudgy" should give them smaller/quick feeders so they had to work to catch it for excercise LOL

Shannon

paul <paul633uk@...> wrote:
Thanks for the info Shannon....
Over the past hour or so they have started taking Cichlid sticks and Blood worm..
I was given these fish by a friend that had to find a home quick ... My normal fish are Walking cats and thay eat anyting very fast , so i was a bit consernd when my Oscars did'nt feed for 2 days..!
But now all is fine ... As for water changes i do a 20% change every week on my 6x2x2foot tank so they should be happy ... The only thing now is to cheer up my cats as there no longer " King of the tank"..lol
Thanks again
Paul.

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
Paul,
When I had my oscars (traded them in due to not having enough space to breed the pairs that had formed (3) out of 7 fish) but they were fed 3-4 times a day. Gave them cichlid sticks, once or twice a month feeder fish (no goldfish), crickets, mealworms, earthworms, bugs, cichlid pellets, brine shrimp, krill, just about anything and everything they would eat. Didn't ever measure them before I traded them all in, but they touched nose to tail across the inside of a 5gallon bucket.
With my experience (no expert) the fresher the water the better their appetite was, every 2 days I would change at least 15% of the tank, kept them happy, on food, begging and doing all the fun stuff dogs trapped in fish body's do.

Shannon

paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times a
day witch seams a bit too much.
Thanks
Paul.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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---------------------------------
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16728 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
I would definetly do some research on your new Oscars. I highly recommend
www.oscarfish.com they have a bunch of Oscar nuts over there who like Helping
people take the best care of there Oscars as possible.


Rob Renfro
NE Indiana

Proud member of
www.ftas.net,
www.midwestcichlid.com
www.goodeids.com


In a message dated 3/24/2006 10:21:03 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
paul633uk@... writes:
hi ..thanks for the info , iv heard of " Hole in the head " sounds very
nasty...
They look all happy now ( even though they are sad looking.. lol ) they
have just had a good helping of blood worm ..so im happy now ( it dont take much
)..

Paul..







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16729 From: paul Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Thanks Rob..
I will take a look at that site.
Paul.

FortWayneFish@... wrote:
I would definetly do some research on your new Oscars. I highly recommend
www.oscarfish.com they have a bunch of Oscar nuts over there who like Helping
people take the best care of there Oscars as possible.


Rob Renfro
NE Indiana

Proud member of
www.ftas.net,
www.midwestcichlid.com
www.goodeids.com


In a message dated 3/24/2006 10:21:03 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
paul633uk@... writes:
hi ..thanks for the info , iv heard of " Hole in the head " sounds very
nasty...
They look all happy now ( even though they are sad looking.. lol ) they
have just had a good helping of blood worm ..so im happy now ( it dont take much
)..

Paul..







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16730 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
Paul,
Your welcome, like I say "not an expert" just what worked for me with experience.
Can relate to "easy to make happy" for good entertainment I'll move some rocks around in one of the tanks, just to watch them explore. Or make them some kind of new decoration just to see what they'll do, think the funnest one was a tunnel, you'd thought they were drag racing the way they were almost taking turns flying through it.
Good luck with you Oscars, they are a fun soon to be large fishLOL

Shannon

paul <paul633uk@...> wrote:
hi ..thanks for the info , iv heard of " Hole in the head " sounds very nasty...
They look all happy now ( even though they are sad looking.. lol ) they have just had a good helping of blood worm ..so im happy now ( it dont take much )..

Paul..

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
Paul,
funny how the addition of a new fish the attitudes of others get offended LOL know that happens around here on occasion. Forgot to add did feed a variety of frozen foods also.
The cats never had that type, have a big boy albino channel, red tail amazon, mystus, driftwoods (they are my pot bellied pigs of my wet world) and a shovel nose still just a little baby (got to get some pics of him to have him identified all I know about him is he is a shovel nose but not like any I've seen pics of).
Good luck with you Oscars, oh the reason I said that I hadn't fed goldfish to mine was told by a few different people that too many can lead to "hole in the head disease" and they were a tad "pudgy" should give them smaller/quick feeders so they had to work to catch it for excercise LOL

Shannon

paul <paul633uk@...> wrote:
Thanks for the info Shannon....
Over the past hour or so they have started taking Cichlid sticks and Blood worm..
I was given these fish by a friend that had to find a home quick ... My normal fish are Walking cats and thay eat anyting very fast , so i was a bit consernd when my Oscars did'nt feed for 2 days..!
But now all is fine ... As for water changes i do a 20% change every week on my 6x2x2foot tank so they should be happy ... The only thing now is to cheer up my cats as there no longer " King of the tank"..lol
Thanks again
Paul.

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
Paul,
When I had my oscars (traded them in due to not having enough space to breed the pairs that had formed (3) out of 7 fish) but they were fed 3-4 times a day. Gave them cichlid sticks, once or twice a month feeder fish (no goldfish), crickets, mealworms, earthworms, bugs, cichlid pellets, brine shrimp, krill, just about anything and everything they would eat. Didn't ever measure them before I traded them all in, but they touched nose to tail across the inside of a 5gallon bucket.
With my experience (no expert) the fresher the water the better their appetite was, every 2 days I would change at least 15% of the tank, kept them happy, on food, begging and doing all the fun stuff dogs trapped in fish body's do.

Shannon

paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times a
day witch seams a bit too much.
Thanks
Paul.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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---------------------------------
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16731 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hello Re: Oscars
We had a friend that use to have 2 oscars. I use to give them live "grub" worms when I would find one hiding a piece of would after spitting it... they loved it!
MM & MP, '73
Tricia, KG6PNC

A 2 sites for fun

http://www.neopets.com/refer.phtml?username=trycya

http://www.gopetslive.com/inviter/?Trycya


----- Original Message -----
From: paul whitby
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 12:45 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello Re: Oscars


Can anyone tell me the best food to give my Oscars..Iv tried
Prawn/Lance fish/Cichlid sticks , But nothing is working very well.
They are very big aprox 6in long,Iv been told to feed them 3 times a
day witch seams a bit too much.
Thanks
Paul.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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United kingdom South africa


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16732 From: wagtail65 Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: UPDATE: Livebearer & Guppy Mega-Event April 28-30
Hi, folks. Here's the latest update for the April 28-30 Convention of
the American Livebearer Association at the East Hanover, NJ Ramada
Conference Center. This has become the most talk-about aquarium event
in 2006, and the Program is included in the April issue of Tropical
Fish Hobbyist Magazine. The Convention is open to the public and all
are welcome! Go to www.livebearers.org for brochure and registration.

SCHEDULE UPDATE:

Friday-April 28
8:00 am: NYC & NY Aquarium Tour boarding
4:30 pm: NYC & NY Aquarium Tour returns
6:00 pm: Convention-Show Registration opens. Vendor/Show Exposition
Room opens
8:00-9:00 pm: Ted Coletti (NJ): "Planted Aquariums & Water Gardens
for Livebearers"
9:30-10:30 pm: Jim Langhammer (MI): "What is a Livebearer" (you'd be
surprised!)
10:00 pm: Registration & Vendor/Show Exposition Rooms close.
Hospitality Room opens

Saturday-April 29
9:00 am: Convention-Show Registration opens. Vendor/Show Exposition
Room opens
9:00-10:00 am: Rich Serva (OH): "Xiphophorus: The Sword Carrier's
Tale"
10:30-11:30 pm: Kees de Jong (Netherlands): "Collecting Livebearers"
Lunch Break: Closed ALA Board Meeting
1:30-2:30 pm: Bob Larsen (NJ): "Guppies Then & Now"
2:30 pm: Convention-Show Registration closes
3:00 pm: Judging—Show Area roped off
3:00-4:00 pm: Dr. Bruce Turner (VA): "Livebearers as Exciting Systems
for Evolutionary Analysis"
4:00 pm: Closed ALA Board Meeting
6:00 pm: Hospitality Room Opens. Vendor/Show Exposition Room closes
7:00 pm: Banquet in the Wardley's Banquet Hall
8:00 pm: ALA Awards Presentation
9:00 pm: Wardley's Banquet Speaker – Lee Finley (RI): "Where are all
the Livebearers?"
After Banquet: Hospitality Room opens

Sunday April 30
9:00 am: Vendor/Show Exposition Room opens
10:00 am: Auction Registration and viewing of fish begins
12:00 pm: Super Auction Begins. (Seller/ALA split = 70/30 for ALA
auction)

Our speaker programs are sponsored by Wardley's and take place in the
Wardley's Lecture Hall


LIVEBEARERS, LIVEBEARERS, & MORE LIVEBEARERS:

This year we are serving up 2 fish shows (IFGA guppy and ALA
livebearer) featuring 100 shows classes and 700+ fish. Enter a fish –
you'd be surprised how often a first timer takes home a plaque! With
record attendance, this also means more hobbyists than ever selling
fish out of their rooms, and bringing fish to the Sunday auction.
Come to our auction if you can't make the whole weekend.
- RARE FISH are being brought for the auction by the ALA
- CZECH-BRED LIVEBEARERS with collection data are trying to be
imported by Adam's Pet Safari (www.adamspetsafari.com) and will be
for sale in the Vendor Area
- SHOW & AUCTION RULES NOW AVAILABLE at www.livebearers.org. If you
are entering the ALA show, try to bring your own mini tank. If you
need one, make sure to indicate that on the registration form and we
will provide one. The IFGA show will supply bowls for all entries.
- ALA SHOW TO FEATURE 3-TIER RACK SYSTEM…Courtesy of our friends at
the North Jersey Aquarium Society. Check them out at www.njas.net and
don't miss one of the most unique and largest auctions in the country
May 7th in the Meadowlands, NJ.
- ROOM SALES: Anyone wishing to sell livestock or dry goods from
their room must register with the ALA. Doing so entitles you to
advertise your wares on our Large Bulletin Board, as well as on your
hotel room door. The fee for this privilege is only $5, and the
proceeds are donated directly to the Vern Parish Fund. We also hope
you join in a Convention tradition and provide some of your leftover
livestock and wares for our Sunday auction.


AND FOR YOUR FAMILY:

Right on site or across the street is a multi-plex theatre, bowling,
Target, and Chuck-E-Cheeze. A few blocks away is Funplex indoor
amusement park (www.funplex.com) and Anchor Golfland. A few miles
away is the exclusive Short Hills Mall, and Florham Park roller
skating rink. The Morris Museum and Arboretum are minutes away, and
American Revolution historic sites abound. Liberty State park with
ferries to the Statue and Ellis Island is 29 miles away.
- The Ramada will be offering free continental breakfast to
attendees, and they have started an in-room Spa / Massage Service.
Book your rooms by April 21st and make sure you ask for the special
$89 "American Livebearer Rate" (973-386-5622).


GIANT VENDOR-SHOW EXPO ROOM:

in our 85' x 40' Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine Exposition Hall. We
are spotlighting a mix of local and national businesses including:
Hikari, Adam's Pet Safari (fish and plants), Jhemco Fishroom Supply
House, The Fish Factory (books), Finley Aquatic Books, T.F.H.
Publications, Eastern Aquatics Blackworms, Kingfish Services
featuring products from Tetra, All-Glass Aquarium, Aquarium Flake,
Aquarium Technologies, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Discus Hans, Python,
San Francisco Bay Brands, Diskus Brief & Cichlid News! WOW!
- WELCOME ENDLER's LIVEBEARER ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA…with a display
at the Convention. Stop by and find out more about the hottest fish
in the hobby!
- GAMBUSIA POSTER PRESENTATION…by NELA's own Michael Ronayne with
some live specimens. Learn the controversy of Gambusia introductions
and hybridizations, as well as acclimations to winter temperatures,
here in New Jersey over the past century.
- "FRESHWATER FISHES OF MEXICO"…the long-awaited book from Robert
Rush Miller is being offered at a special price to Convention
attendees only while supplies last from The Fish Factory. Only $60.00
($10 from that amount will be donated to the Vern Parish Fund). Limit
1 per registrant. Contact Mike Schadle at mjschadle@... to
reserve your copy.
- NEED BLACKWORMS? Pre-order yours from our vendor, Eastern Aquatics,
by April 19th and get special Convention pricing: 1/4 lb @ $6, 1/2lb
@ $11 , 3/4lb @ $16 , 1lb @ $20 , 2lbs @ $19ea , 3 lbs @ $18ea , 4
lbs @ $17ea, 5 lbs @ $16ea, 6 lbs @ $15ea. Email:
easternaquatics@... or leave a message at 717-898-7224 .


GOODIE BAGS FOR ALL REGISTERED ATTENDEES:

Courtesy of our friends at Hikari, these nice blue cloth bags feature
painted fish and samples of various foods and water conditioners,
show program, and a complimentary copy of the April TFH!


NEW YORK TOURS FILLING UP – REGISTER NOW:

- NYC TOUR: On Friday morning, relax in comfort as our chartered
luxury tour bus takes you under the mighty Hudson River into exciting
Times Square! Once there, a charming Tour Coach will take you on a
critically-acclaimed narrated 2-Hour sightseeing tour of Midtown and
Downtown Manhattan, with stops along the way! This charter has been
called the "best New York tour" by several newspapers and travel
authorities. After the tour, you'll have a few hours to lunch and
explore the Big Apple before we return to New Jersey in our
comfortable luxury charter!
- CONEY ISLAND AQUARIUM WITH DR. PAUL LOISELLE: If Manhattan is not
your bag, stay on the bus to travel across the East River Brooklyn's
famed Coney Island and New York Aquarium. There you'll meet the
legendary Dr. Paul Loiselle! Grab a bite and enjoy the famous
Boardwalk until we return to Times Square and then back to the hotel
in our comfortable luxury charter!


MISSOURI SOCIETY CHALLENGES OTHER CLUBS:

to match their $100 donation to the ALA's Vern Parish Scholarship
Fund. Take the MASI Challenge and do a good thing! You gonna let some
Show-Me Staters show you up?


WELCOME BRISTOL ENGLAND AQUARIUM SOCIETY MEMBERS:

be sure to welcome a dozen of the UK's finest livebearer hobbyists to
our country!


WE ARE PROUD TO ANNOUNCE TROPICAL FISH HOBBYIST MAGAZINE…

as the Official Magazine of ALA 2006. Stop by and say hello to the
best magazine in the hobby in both our TFH Exposition and Hospitality
rooms.


THANK YOU Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine, T.F.H. Publications,
Wardley's, Marineland, Perfecto, Ocean Nutrition, Kent Marine, Tetra,
All-Glass Aquarium, Aquarium Flake, Aquarium Technologies, Aquarium
Pharmaceuticals, Discus Hans, Python, San Francisco Bay Brands,
Diskus Brief & Cichlid News for your donations to our Sunday auction
and weekend raffles! Support these companies, folks. They support our
hobby!


Need more info? Download our registration brochure and show and
auction rules at www.livebearers.org. Hope to see you there!

- Ted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16733 From: alexr1229 Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: New tank
Hello I am new to this group. I have just purchased a new tank and want
to transdfer my exsiting tank into this new one. The old tank is 29
gallon and the new one is 75 gallons. I was just wonder what the steps
are for doing something like this. I am just a little confused. When I
got my first tank I had to have it set up for a week or so before I
even put fish into it. I have been told to put my substrate from my
smaller tank into the larger tank and to use my old filter until the
tank has cycled. when do I make these transfers before or after please
help.
Also if you have an suggestions as to what other equipment I will need
or should use please let me know. The only things that I have so far
are the tank, stand, and hood. I am not in rush but I want to get this
process started so please help me out. I am still kind of new at this
stuff even though I have had my other tank for about four or so years
now. It was easy with that tank it always tested good and my fish are
healthly. I want to get this process started so please give me any and
all the advice you so feel inclined to.

Thank you
Alex
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16734 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: Pix posted
Hi Paul,

Cograts, your photo made it to the home page

have agreat weekend,
Aaron


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "paul whitby" <paul633uk@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all.. Iv just posted a pic of one of my Red Oscars..
> Its under Paul's pix.
> Hope u like as it took me 2 days to get a "OK" pic..!!
> Im no David Bailey..lol
> Thanks
> Paul
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16735 From: clarkmariposo25@aol.com Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: aquatic Plants
Does anyone know how to keep alive plants alive after receiving them in the
mail? I ordered some plants online and received the other day. I put some of
them into my fish tanks, but have too many leftover and want to keep the rest
that I didn't use fresh any ideas?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16736 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: aquatic Plants
just a guess, I would put them in a container with enough water to
cover them and leave outside in the sun during the day so they can get
some light,

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, clarkmariposo25@... wrote:
>
> Does anyone know how to keep alive plants alive after receiving them
in the
> mail? I ordered some plants online and received the other day. I put
some of
> them into my fish tanks, but have too many leftover and want to keep
the rest
> that I didn't use fresh any ideas?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16737 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: Re: New tank
Yes, that is correct, You should put old gravel and filter sponge into the new tank. It might take a couple weeks to cycle. What you can do is add a couple of small fish or a goldfish to start, and watch the levels carefully. Check ammonia/nitrite regularily. Once they reach zero you will get a rise in the nitrate levels. At this time, your tank is cycled and you can add a few more fish, but add them gradually over a period of time. If you add them all at once, even after the tank is cycled, it may have to re-cycle.
Emily

alexr1229 <alexr1229@...> wrote:
Hello I am new to this group. I have just purchased a new tank and want
to transdfer my exsiting tank into this new one. The old tank is 29
gallon and the new one is 75 gallons. I was just wonder what the steps
are for doing something like this. I am just a little confused. When I
got my first tank I had to have it set up for a week or so before I
even put fish into it. I have been told to put my substrate from my
smaller tank into the larger tank and to use my old filter until the
tank has cycled. when do I make these transfers before or after please
help.
Also if you have an suggestions as to what other equipment I will need
or should use please let me know. The only things that I have so far
are the tank, stand, and hood. I am not in rush but I want to get this
process started so please help me out. I am still kind of new at this
stuff even though I have had my other tank for about four or so years
now. It was easy with that tank it always tested good and my fish are
healthly. I want to get this process started so please give me any and
all the advice you so feel inclined to.

Thank you
Alex







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16738 From: paul whitby Date: 3/24/2006
Subject: wow...Its Jaws.!
Hi all .
My fish on the home page ..wow...Jaws your a star , Have another block
of worms .
Thanks
Paul oh...and Jaws
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16739 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/25/2006
Subject: Re: New tank
I am a newbie, but I did this and had no cycle at all. If all the “good”
bacteria survive the move, why wouldn’t they take care of the ammonia and
nitrite immediately?



I cycled a 10 gallon with fish and 2 inches of substrate on the bottom. I
had the ammonia spike, then the nitrite spike, all was zero after about a
month. I waited one more month, then set up a 38 gallon tank with new
substrate on the bottom (the 38 required more substrate than the 10). Then
I transferred ½ of the substrate from the 10 into the 38 and gently
sprinkled it on top like a thin layer of topsoil in a garden. The remaining
½ of the substrate stayed in the 10, giving me a cycled quarantine/hospital
tank as a backup.



I changed the 2 dirty (and bacteria-rich) cartridges from the 10-gallon tank
filter, and I leaned the dirty cartridges up against rocks in the 38 gallon
tank. I left them in there for about a month.



I never had ammonia or nitrite in the 38-gallon tank, and the nitrates just
continued to climb (within safe levels). I interpreted this to mean the
bacteria had survived the transfer and continued to convert ammonia and
nitrite into nitrate. Fish were added December 29 and all is well!



As for other equipment, I have a power filter on the 10 and a canister
filter on the 38…the power filter is too noisy, I recommend a canister as
they are sooo silent!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Emily Tenczar
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 11:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New tank



Yes, that is correct, You should put old gravel and filter sponge into the
new tank. It might take a couple weeks to cycle. What you can do is add a
couple of small fish or a goldfish to start, and watch the levels carefully.
Check ammonia/nitrite regularily. Once they reach zero you will get a rise
in the nitrate levels. At this time, your tank is cycled and you can add a
few more fish, but add them gradually over a period of time. If you add them
all at once, even after the tank is cycled, it may have to re-cycle.
Emily

alexr1229 <alexr1229@...> wrote:
Hello I am new to this group. I have just purchased a new tank and want
to transdfer my exsiting tank into this new one. The old tank is 29
gallon and the new one is 75 gallons. I was just wonder what the steps
are for doing something like this. I am just a little confused. When I
got my first tank I had to have it set up for a week or so before I
even put fish into it. I have been told to put my substrate from my
smaller tank into the larger tank and to use my old filter until the
tank has cycled. when do I make these transfers before or after please
help.
Also if you have an suggestions as to what other equipment I will need
or should use please let me know. The only things that I have so far
are the tank, stand, and hood. I am not in rush but I want to get this
process started so please help me out. I am still kind of new at this
stuff even though I have had my other tank for about four or so years
now. It was easy with that tank it always tested good and my fish are
healthly. I want to get this process started so please give me any and
all the advice you so feel inclined to.

Thank you
Alex







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United
kingdom South africa

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16740 From: paul whitby Date: 3/25/2006
Subject: New Filter
hi all.
Iv just instaled a new Fluval Biolife filter...All i can say about it
is WOW..My water now looks polished.!
With an out put of 490 lph/108 gph and a wet/dry trickle filter and a
very good powerhead pump and room for your heater and Biomax ceramic
media.
All for £39.00..!

I also use a PenPlex 400 Canaster filter that is 4 years old now but
has never let me down..ok its a pig to prime but it works very well.

So if you after a good internal filter , take a look at the Fluval
Biolife.

Thanks
Paul.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16741 From: 42 Date: 3/27/2006
Subject: Re: New member in DFW,TX
I live in Dallas

Gregg <gregg@...> wrote: Hello all

My name is Gregg and I am in Cleburne, south of Ft.Worth,TX. Any other members in the DFW,Ft.Worth area?


Thanks,
Gregg


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16742 From: 42 Date: 3/27/2006
Subject: Re: New member in DFW,TX
Gregg <gregg@...> wrote: Hello all

My name is Gregg and I am in Cleburne, south of Ft.Worth,TX. Any other members in the DFW,Ft.Worth area?


Thanks,
Gregg


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16743 From: Julie Roughley Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Discus Fish
Hi Everyone,

I am finally upgrading from a cold water tank with regular goldfish to a tropical tank.

A friend suggested that two discus fish or a single oscar fish would be easy & unfussy to look after.. are they pulling my leg?

Cheers

Jules




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16744 From: kristopher helsing Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Re: Discus Fish
what size tank and what is your dedication to the tank??

Julie Roughley <jules27au@...> wrote: Hi Everyone,

I am finally upgrading from a cold water tank with regular goldfish to a tropical tank.

A friend suggested that two discus fish or a single oscar fish would be easy & unfussy to look after.. are they pulling my leg?

Cheers

Jules




SPONSORED LINKS
Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

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---------------------------------





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16745 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Re: New member in DFW,TX
I grew up in Plano but live in Los Angeles now.



Shane

www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of 42
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 10:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New member in DFW,TX



I live in Dallas

Gregg <gregg@...> wrote: Hello all

My name is Gregg and I am in Cleburne, south of Ft.Worth,TX. Any other
members in the DFW,Ft.Worth area?


Thanks,
Gregg


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16746 From: fiddlenero Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Reliable web resources/books
Hello everyone,

Being new to this aquarium hobby, I am constantly on the lookout of
more information to expand my knowledge base. I am specifically
interested in the following categories of info:

1) what species of fishes are mutually compatible with each other
(so that I can select my fishes accordingly)?

2) best grooming and taking care info (eg. temp, pH, food, ambience,
etc.) for various fishes.

However I find that internet resources can be confusing and
contradictory. For example, one website recommended that I can
choose barbs to go along with tetras, whereas according to another
website this is a strict no-no... Hence I am conflicted and confused.

Given the vast experience of many members of this forum, I will
greatly appreciate if anyone can recommend me some of the RELIABLE
websites regarding selection of fishes as well as their grooming and
care. Are there any good books that are definite keeps?

Thanks, and regards,
Subh
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16747 From: Julie Roughley Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Re: Discus Fish
Hi There,

My tank is 50cm deep & 40cm across (hexagonal design), having around 100 litres of water.

Happy to put in 2/3 hours a week.

Cheers

Julie

kristopher helsing <punk3r12@...> wrote:
what size tank and what is your dedication to the tank??

Julie Roughley <jules27au@...> wrote: Hi Everyone,

I am finally upgrading from a cold water tank with regular goldfish to a tropical tank.

A friend suggested that two discus fish or a single oscar fish would be easy & unfussy to look after.. are they pulling my leg?

Cheers

Jules




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16748 From: steve Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank
You will, of course need to get a larger filter for the larger
aquarium. You might just run it with two smaller size filters
permanently, and get a new filter for the old tank.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I am a newbie, but I did this and had no cycle at all. If all
the "good"
> bacteria survive the move, why wouldn't they take care of the
ammonia and
> nitrite immediately?
>
....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16749 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/28/2006
Subject: Re: Reliable web resources/books
Subh,

Well, fish compatibility can be tricky. Sometimes what works for me will not
work for you. This can be caused in a subtle difference in the tank setup
and/or the "personality" of the fish involved. Best thing to do is to decide
on a fish, and then look for fish that are claimed to be good companions.

You should probably get yourself a good book first. While there are a lot of
good sites and lists out on the Internet, there are a goodly number of bad
ones. You'll need a base of knowledge to help you decide which is which. The
book I recommend for most novices is the Baensch Aquarium Atlas. It runs
about $40, but is worth every penny. It will walk you through setting up a
tank, and it covers both fish and plants that you are likely to see in the
trade. The descriptions are pretty complete, and they do a pretty honest job
of stating if the fish is suited to be housed with other fish.

You can probably find a used copy for much less than a new copy.

As you go along, do not hesitate to ask questions here. This list has a way
of weeding out mis-information, and conceding when differences of opinion
are viable.


\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of fiddlenero
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 2:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Reliable web resources/books


Hello everyone,

Being new to this aquarium hobby, I am constantly on the lookout of
more information to expand my knowledge base. I am specifically
interested in the following categories of info:

1) what species of fishes are mutually compatible with each other
(so that I can select my fishes accordingly)?

2) best grooming and taking care info (eg. temp, pH, food, ambience,
etc.) for various fishes.

However I find that internet resources can be confusing and
contradictory. For example, one website recommended that I can
choose barbs to go along with tetras, whereas according to another
website this is a strict no-no... Hence I am conflicted and confused.

Given the vast experience of many members of this forum, I will
greatly appreciate if anyone can recommend me some of the RELIABLE
websites regarding selection of fishes as well as their grooming and
care. Are there any good books that are definite keeps?

Thanks, and regards,
Subh
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16750 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 3/31/2006
Subject: Re: Reliable web resources/books
Fish compatibility depends also to a large degree on aquarium size,
aquarium design, and number of hiding places.

If the tank is large enough you may for instance keep Southamerican
Cichlids together with small tetras and some rather large piranhas,

I already have seen this in a public tank,

Thomas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16751 From: kwtrkbldr Date: 3/31/2006
Subject: Looking for Puget Sound Information
I heard there was a group in the Puget Sound area that could give me
information on setting up a saltwater tank for cold water species. If
anyone has any information, please contact me.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16752 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/31/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for Puget Sound Information
I know this may sound crazy, but I grew up in that area. Have you tried the aquarium there at Pt Defiance, they used to have a couple people just to help with SW and FW fish questions, set up of tanks, needs etc... Been a few years (LOL) but if not they should be able to refer you somewhere to a group up there.

kwtrkbldr <terryleeallen1@...> wrote: I heard there was a group in the Puget Sound area that could give me
information on setting up a saltwater tank for cold water species. If
anyone has any information, please contact me.











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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16753 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/1/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for Puget Sound Information
Try the Puget Sound Aquarium Society.

http://www.thepsas.org/


\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kwtrkbldr
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 5:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for Puget Sound Information

I heard there was a group in the Puget Sound area that could give me
information on setting up a saltwater tank for cold water species. If
anyone has any information, please contact me.







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16754 From: kwtrkbldr Date: 4/1/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for Puget Sound Information
Thanks for the idea, don't know why I didn't think of them or the
Seattle aquarium.I worked on a boat that taught marine science to
middle school for several years. I ran an otter trawl net, then
helped the marine bioligist explain to the kids what we found.There
is an amazing amount of interesting species available in the sound
that are not found in your average pet store. Thanks again.--- In
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...>
wrote:
>
> I know this may sound crazy, but I grew up in that area. Have you
tried the aquarium there at Pt Defiance, they used to have a couple
people just to help with SW and FW fish questions, set up of tanks,
needs etc... Been a few years (LOL) but if not they should be able to
refer you somewhere to a group up there.
>
> kwtrkbldr <terryleeallen1@...> wrote: I heard there was a group in
the Puget Sound area that could give me
> information on setting up a saltwater tank for cold water species.
If
> anyone has any information, please contact me.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area
United kingdom South africa
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> SHANNON LINGENFELTER
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16755 From: Daniel Date: 4/2/2006
Subject: Plants
I was wondering does anyone have any Heminathus callitrichoides to
give away or sale?I saw it on a website an would love to have some.
Thanks
Daniel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16756 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/2/2006
Subject: aquatic member ph test results~Sandy
Sandy,

Haven't heard from you in a few weeks. How are things going with that tank?
Any improvement?


\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sandra Kay
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 10:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: aquatic member ph test results~ Steve

Steve,
Thank you for explaining what I am trying to do with my tank. You
said it better than I could have. I sincerely appreciate your help
and will continue with what you say to do. I'll reply back in another
week or so. I am so glad to be receiving good help.
Sandy



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Sandy,
>
> Stay the course. You mentioned your nitrite is now 0, which is
good. I would
> be willing to think that your ammonia has also gone down to 0 or
close to
> it, by now. I'm not real concerned that the alkalinity has not yet
started
> to rise. I don't know how sensitive your kit is, so we need to take
a wait
> and see attitude here. Continue as you have been. Glad to hear that
the fish
> and plants are responding. They may be liking the water changes <g>.
>
> Until the alkalinity starts to go upward, we are not likely to see
much in
> the way of the pH rising.
>
> When the heater kicks in, and is running, turn it down just enough
to turn
> off the indicator light. Do this every few days until you get the
> temperature down to a more comfortable level for everyone. Probably
around
> 75-76^0 F. At the rate the temperature will come down, you should
not have
> to worry about ich setting in. It will be a slow comfortable drop in
> temperature for everyone.
>
> "Maybe this world is another planet's hell."
> Aldous Huxley
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Sandy Kay
> Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 4:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] aquatic member ph test results~ Steve
>
> Hi, I've done the 1 gallon water change as you suggested for 3
days now. I
> thought it would be good to send the readings again. Alkalinity 0,
nitrite 0
> ph 6.4, hardness 120, nitrate 20 with the mardel test kit. The ph
may be a
> tad higher but not much. Do you know how long it will take
> to see it go up. Will it take a few weeks. What should it would
read when it
> is right. I know it can vary. Just am not sure where it should be
in the
> range of. I do have all live plants. They are starting to grow out
now. The
> fish seem pretty healthy. The temperature is 80 degrees. I know
that is
> a little high. Since it is cold at night and I turn the light off,
I have
> had it up higher to help with ick and the fish being messed up with
the
> water. Is that okay? Thanks so much for any help, Sandy
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16757 From: fiddlenero Date: 4/3/2006
Subject: Re: Reliable web resources/books
Hello Steve,

Thanks for your informative mail. (And apologies for my delayed
response for unavoidable reasons).

We had exchanged a few emails about six weeks ago, and you had given
me some useful tips.

I started this wonderful hobby three months ago. However, due to bad
advice from my pet store "advisor" (and my blindly following his
advice), my intial tank has a poorly planned collection of fishes.
It is a 20 gallon tank with six fishes: 1 rainbow, 2 guppies, 1
tetra, 1 minnow and 1 molly. (The molly is turning out to be a
bully).

I am planning to get a new 50 gallon tank and this time I want to
plan my fish collection more systematically and scientifically. My
starting point is Threadfin Rainbow. The one in my original 20G tank
is so playful, fearless and seductive that I am completely enamoured
by it! So I am going to start with 3-4 threadfin rainbows and build
my community around these by selecting compatible fishes.

Thanks for the suggestion of Baensch Aquarium Atlas. I have already
ordered it from Amazon. I was also told that Axelrod's book is good.

Thanks for your tips.

-- Subh

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Subh,
>
> Well, fish compatibility can be tricky. Sometimes what works for
me will not
> work for you. This can be caused in a subtle difference in the
tank setup
> and/or the "personality" of the fish involved. Best thing to do is
to decide
> on a fish, and then look for fish that are claimed to be good
companions.
>
> You should probably get yourself a good book first. While there
are a lot of
> good sites and lists out on the Internet, there are a goodly
number of bad
> ones. You'll need a base of knowledge to help you decide which is
which. The
> book I recommend for most novices is the Baensch Aquarium Atlas.
It runs
> about $40, but is worth every penny. It will walk you through
setting up a
> tank, and it covers both fish and plants that you are likely to
see in the
> trade. The descriptions are pretty complete, and they do a pretty
honest job
> of stating if the fish is suited to be housed with other fish.
>
> You can probably find a used copy for much less than a new copy.
>
> As you go along, do not hesitate to ask questions here. This list
has a way
> of weeding out mis-information, and conceding when differences of
opinion
> are viable.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16758 From: fiddlenero Date: 4/3/2006
Subject: Re: Reliable web resources/books
Hello Thomas,

I have a 20G tank with an improperly planned collection of 6 fishes:
1 rainbow, 1 minnow, 1 molly, 1 tetra, and 2 guppies...

I am getting a second 50G tank and want a more proper collection
this time. I will start with 3 odd threadfin rainbows and want to
build my fish community around these three.

Thanks,
Subh

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas Schlemmermeyer"
<evolthomas@...> wrote:
>
>
> Fish compatibility depends also to a large degree on aquarium
size,
> aquarium design, and number of hiding places.
>
> If the tank is large enough you may for instance keep
Southamerican
> Cichlids together with small tetras and some rather large piranhas,
>
> I already have seen this in a public tank,
>
> Thomas
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16759 From: Ivan Chester Canoy Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
im from manila too! the main branch of bioresearch in sucat, paranaque is the biggest koi dealer in the philippines.. aside from kois they have lots of flowerhorns and has a giant arapaima in their gigantic aquarium!

Jerry Young <jerry_jla@...> wrote: Its nice to know there's a fellow Filipino in this group. Kamusta po?

payumo_pwu <payumo_pwu@...> wrote: Does anyone knwo where to buy affordable aqua/pond fish? (koi, ryukin
etc) near Antipolo/Cainta/ Marikina? Thanks







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16760 From: earl martin santos Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
hi. im just a flowerhorn and arowana fanatic.. im form manila as well.. whats the address there in bioresearch sucat?

Ivan Chester Canoy <chestercanoy@...> wrote: im from manila too! the main branch of bioresearch in sucat, paranaque is the biggest koi dealer in the philippines.. aside from kois they have lots of flowerhorns and has a giant arapaima in their gigantic aquarium!

Jerry Young <jerry_jla@...> wrote: Its nice to know there's a fellow Filipino in this group. Kamusta po?

payumo_pwu <payumo_pwu@...> wrote: Does anyone knwo where to buy affordable aqua/pond fish? (koi, ryukin
etc) near Antipolo/Cainta/ Marikina? Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16761 From: Gianluca Polgar Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: mudskippers
Dear members,

I'm desperately looking for specimens of mudskippers ( www.themudskipper.org ).

They are present along West African coasts and in all the
Indo-Pacific region, from East Africa to Samoa Island.

Could anyone who live in one of these countries help me?

Thank you in advance for any kind of help :-)

Gianluca

O___!||||__/////__
{__)_\

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16762 From: Jerry Young Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Coming from South Super Highway its after Manila Memorial, then Kraft. Where in Manila are you guys? I'm in Timog Quezon City. I have a 48" long planted tank with a vast assortment of tetras.

earl martin santos <earl_at_pearl@...> wrote: hi. im just a flowerhorn and arowana fanatic.. im form manila as well.. whats the address there in bioresearch sucat?

Ivan Chester Canoy <chestercanoy@...> wrote: im from manila too! the main branch of bioresearch in sucat, paranaque is the biggest koi dealer in the philippines.. aside from kois they have lots of flowerhorns and has a giant arapaima in their gigantic aquarium!

Jerry Young <jerry_jla@...> wrote: Its nice to know there's a fellow Filipino in this group. Kamusta po?

payumo_pwu <payumo_pwu@...> wrote: Does anyone knwo where to buy affordable aqua/pond fish? (koi, ryukin
etc) near Antipolo/Cainta/ Marikina? Thanks






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16763 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Feeding earthworms?
Can you feed big fish earthworms? If yes, should you shorten them
before letting them into the tank?
L


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16764 From: Kurt Johnston Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: New Group
The Aquarium Club of Lancaster County would like to invite all the
members of this group to join our NEW Yahoo discussion group on the
internet at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aclancastercounty/.

This group is open to all club members, members of other clubs and to
aquarium hobbyists around the world. Please join us for great
discussions, to share ideas, photos and news from all aspects of the
world of aquarium hobbyists.

Thank you and we hope to see you soon!

Kurt Johnston
Program V.P.
Aquarium Club of Lancaster County
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16765 From: J29MM@aOL.COM Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding earthworms?
I have fed all my fish earthworms, including my guppies, they love em'! I
shorten them for the smaller fish... I have even fed them to my salt water lion
fish...mmm chow chow--







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16766 From: jerry young Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Barbs and Tetras
Any body has any experience(s) keeping tiger barbs with small tetras
(neons, cardinals, glowlights)? Will the little guys be safe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16767 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 4/6/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding earthworms?
Mine love worms, the little guy goes out in the flowerbeds just to catch them and other bugs for the fish. Gets his step stool and little baggie of goodies, they all line up just waiting to see what he has brought them LOL

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: Can you feed big fish earthworms? If yes, should you shorten them
before letting them into the tank?
L


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16768 From: paul Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding earthworms?
Hi..

Well i feed earthworms to my Oscars and walking cat fish with out any problems.
I have been told that u ment to blanch them in milk first ..! But i cant see why.
All i do is wash them first in a cup of tank water .
Thanks
Paul.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
Can you feed big fish earthworms? If yes, should you shorten them
before letting them into the tank?
L


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16769 From: Paolo Wilfred Payumo Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
Uy, d pala ako nagiisang noypi dito!. Well I'm definitely glad that I'm not all alone heehee. Anyway just recently developed interest with fish. I'm looking for a place to buy cheap ryukins(totoong ryukin talaga na mataas ang hump, hindi fantail na binabrand lang na ryukin) pati butterfly kois.Kung my alam kayo, paki sabi naman.

cheers!

Jerry Young <jerry_jla@...> wrote:
Coming from South Super Highway its after Manila Memorial, then Kraft. Where in Manila are you guys? I'm in Timog Quezon City. I have a 48" long planted tank with a vast assortment of tetras.

earl martin santos <earl_at_pearl@...> wrote: hi. im just a flowerhorn and arowana fanatic.. im form manila as well.. whats the address there in bioresearch sucat?

Ivan Chester Canoy <chestercanoy@...> wrote: im from manila too! the main branch of bioresearch in sucat, paranaque is the biggest koi dealer in the philippines.. aside from kois they have lots of flowerhorns and has a giant arapaima in their gigantic aquarium!

Jerry Young <jerry_jla@...> wrote: Its nice to know there's a fellow Filipino in this group. Kamusta po?

payumo_pwu <payumo_pwu@...> wrote: Does anyone knwo where to buy affordable aqua/pond fish? (koi, ryukin
etc) near Antipolo/Cainta/ Marikina? Thanks






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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---------------------------------
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---------------------------------





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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---------------------------------





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16770 From: paul whitby Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Freshwater Moray ell
Hi all..
Anyone give me any info on a Freshwater moray.?
Iv just picked on up from a new shop near me..for £9.00.
She/he is very long 14 inch.
The shope keeper knew nothing about it...so over to you guys.
Thanks
Paul
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16771 From: earl martin santos Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
sa mga noypi dito, punta kayo www.palhs.com... load of info about the world of fishkeeping!!!

:):):)

Paolo Wilfred Payumo <payumo_pwu@...> wrote: Uy, d pala ako nagiisang noypi dito!. Well I'm definitely glad that I'm not all alone heehee. Anyway just recently developed interest with fish. I'm looking for a place to buy cheap ryukins(totoong ryukin talaga na mataas ang hump, hindi fantail na binabrand lang na ryukin) pati butterfly kois.Kung my alam kayo, paki sabi naman.

cheers!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16772 From: stormyeyedbabe Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding earthworms?
I've always fed earthworms to my tropical fish...we feed earthworms to
our reef fish too, they eat them up and we've never had a problem :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16773 From: Jerry Young Date: 4/7/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone from Manila Philippines?
You can try Heavenly Fish. My office mate got some beautiful goldfish there for as low as 50php. Its along retiro near Biak na Bato Quezon City. Look for Carlo or Bernadette. Tel # 4166179

Paolo Wilfred Payumo <payumo_pwu@...> wrote: Uy, d pala ako nagiisang noypi dito!. Well I'm definitely glad that I'm not all alone heehee. Anyway just recently developed interest with fish. I'm looking for a place to buy cheap ryukins(totoong ryukin talaga na mataas ang hump, hindi fantail na binabrand lang na ryukin) pati butterfly kois.Kung my alam kayo, paki sabi naman.

cheers!

Jerry Young <jerry_jla@...> wrote:
Coming from South Super Highway its after Manila Memorial, then Kraft. Where in Manila are you guys? I'm in Timog Quezon City. I have a 48" long planted tank with a vast assortment of tetras.

earl martin santos <earl_at_pearl@...> wrote: hi. im just a flowerhorn and arowana fanatic.. im form manila as well.. whats the address there in bioresearch sucat?

Ivan Chester Canoy <chestercanoy@...> wrote: im from manila too! the main branch of bioresearch in sucat, paranaque is the biggest koi dealer in the philippines.. aside from kois they have lots of flowerhorns and has a giant arapaima in their gigantic aquarium!

Jerry Young <jerry_jla@...> wrote: Its nice to know there's a fellow Filipino in this group. Kamusta po?

payumo_pwu <payumo_pwu@...> wrote: Does anyone knwo where to buy affordable aqua/pond fish? (koi, ryukin
etc) near Antipolo/Cainta/ Marikina? Thanks






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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---------------------------------





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Marine biologist Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16774 From: paul whitby Date: 4/8/2006
Subject: New pic upload
hi all..
Iv just put another pic in my folder "Paul's pix".
Of my walking cats George & Dave .
Thanks
Paul.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16775 From: Andreas Date: 4/8/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater Moray ell
I don't think there is a fresh water moray eel. there are a bunch of eels
that migrated upriver from saltwarer and are now fresih water. they have
different names and some have different needs, i recommend you google images
of fresh water eels to ID yours and then go from there..

Andreas

in general they like soft substarte to burrow in

On 4/7/06, paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all..
> Anyone give me any info on a Freshwater moray.?
> Iv just picked on up from a new shop near me..for £9.00.
> She/he is very long 14 inch.
> The shope keeper knew nothing about it...so over to you guys.
> Thanks
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
> ------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> - Visit your group "AquaticLife<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife>"
> on the web.
>
> - To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com<AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
> - Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16776 From: paul Date: 4/8/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater Moray ell
hi ..thanks for the info.
All the best
paul.

Andreas <andreas1120@...> wrote:
I don't think there is a fresh water moray eel. there are a bunch of eels
that migrated upriver from saltwarer and are now fresih water. they have
different names and some have different needs, i recommend you google images
of fresh water eels to ID yours and then go from there..

Andreas

in general they like soft substarte to burrow in

On 4/7/06, paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all..
> Anyone give me any info on a Freshwater moray.?
> Iv just picked on up from a new shop near me..for £9.00.
> She/he is very long 14 inch.
> The shope keeper knew nothing about it...so over to you guys.
> Thanks
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
> ------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> - Visit your group "AquaticLife<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife>"
> on the web.
>
> - To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com<AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
> - Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16777 From: Phil Date: 4/8/2006
Subject: Firemouths!!
Hey mates! I got 6 firemouths from 2 different stores a couple of
months ago. One is a little bigger than the rest. I'm trying to breed
them. Any tips on how to tell a male from a female???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16778 From: shailendra Indulkar Date: 4/8/2006
Subject: Re: Albino fish breeding
Hello,
The side view picture is also loaded in photo section of our group
One problem i face is the get disturbed when kids touch the tank and
then will swim widely and some times also injured themselves
what could be done?what do the like ?diet?
manyThanks


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "shailendra Indulkar"
> <indulkarshailu@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> > A picture added in photo section of our group
> > wish to understand its breeding techniques.
> > ManyThanks,
> > indulkarshailu@
> > India
> >
> PS:
> Blind Caves are very prone to get "ich"
>
> Hank
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16779 From: paul whitby Date: 4/9/2006
Subject: New pic upload
Hi all ..
Just put another pic in my folder..My Ell ( Ugly sod ).
He/She is eating well , lance fish and prawn.
Thanks
Paul.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16780 From: Scott Vaughn Date: 4/9/2006
Subject: albino fish breeding
One problem i face is the get disturbed when kids touch the tank and
then will swim widely and some times also injured themselves
what could be done?

Obviously, don't allow the children to touch the tank.

pat vaughn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16781 From: bigter4 Date: 4/10/2006
Subject: Just a sad story for all to read and learn from
Hello All, we here is my story. just before last wknd I wsas watching
my fish and i noticed something. ( now this is an established, not
overstcked tank with all levels perfect) i looked at my one Bala shark
and he had a cloudy eye. I thought this was strange and was not sure
what it was. I went to research this to see if he was sick or perhaps
after 3 or more yrs the eyes get like this. ( bala man was about 3 yrs
old) The next day the other shark had it as well. Weh I cam home from
work with the answer... POPEYE.. It was too late. Both sharks were
dead. I did the water change, and medicated the tank. that night 3
others dided and the next day evetone was dead except 3 fish. So far
the tank is doing better but i lost almost everyone. This is just a
lesson to payu attn too . I have never had any issues in this tank
bedsides ICk a few yrs back. No one new was added and I have done
nothing different. I guess im just trying to say is pay attn. Maybe if
i noticed this eye the day before my tank would still be alive. - Terry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16782 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/10/2006
Subject: Re: Just a sad story for all to read and learn from
What would cause that? There has to be some way to prevent such a
thing. That terrifies me.
Ack!
~Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bigter4
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 2:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Just a sad story for all to read and learn from


Hello All, we here is my story. just before last wknd I wsas watching
my fish and i noticed something.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16783 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 4/10/2006
Subject: Re: Just a sad story for all to read and learn from
that is indeed horrific I fear that something like that will happen when I
go away on my long trips... I try and educated my mom who watches my tank for
me but in general she just doesn't have the best sight and has so much to do
rather than gaze over my tank for hours a day... but she has got better and
such and im lucky to have someone period but im thinking I need to create a
symptom list for her to watch out for now.. Shannon

Hello All, we here is my story. just before last wknd I wsas watching
my fish and i noticed something. ( now this is an established, not
overstcked tank with all levels perfect) i looked at my one Bala shark
and he had a cloudy eye. I thought this was strange and was not sure
what it was. I went to research this to see if he was sick or perhaps
after 3 or more yrs the eyes get like this. ( bala man was about 3 yrs
old) The next day the other shark had it as well. Weh I cam home from
work with the answer... POPEYE.. It was too late. Both sharks were
dead. I did the water change, and medicated the tank. that night 3
others dided and the next day evetone was dead except 3 fish. So far
the tank is doing better but i lost almost everyone. This is just a
lesson to payu attn too . I have never had any issues in this tank
bedsides ICk a few yrs back. No one new was added and I have done
nothing different. I guess im just trying to say is pay attn. Maybe if
i noticed this eye the day before my tank would still be alive. - Terry






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16784 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 4/10/2006
Subject: Finally decided what to do with...
Well I finally decided what to do with my 29 gal tank that was overrun (can
just barely see the gravel) with snails. I have tried loaches, but never
seem to have much luck with them living more than 1 hr... even with tank
conditions exceptional. So I decided that since I already had my live
bearer tank running just for fun to get 4 gold fish (2 fantails, and 2
ryu... something or others) they are small right now so hopefully the 29 gal
will work for a bit until I can get another 55 gal. Also learned that
goldfish and snails cannot cohabitate. They have picked clean 1/3 to 1/2 of
the snail pop in less than 24 hrs!!! Wish I would have known this sooner
could have saved alot of money spent on the loaches.
MM & MP, '73
Tricia, KG6PNC

A 2 sites for fun

http://www.neopets.com/refer.phtml?username=trycya

http://www.gopetslive.com/inviter/?Trycya

Already have a Neopets account, interested in trying out one of the premium
accounts? Ask me for a referral and include your Neopets username ONLY and
I will Neomail you a referral.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16786 From: paul whitby Date: 4/11/2006
Subject: George..!!
Hi all... iv just seen George, My walking catfish (Clarias batrachus)
Your a star.( Have another Lance fish )
Thanks for putting him on the home page.
Paul....
Oh and can anyone tell me of some Oscar Proof plants..If there is such
a thing...At the mo i have only Bogwood and rocks.
Again thanks
Paul.. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16787 From: paul whitby Date: 4/11/2006
Subject: Walking cats(Clarias batrachus)
Hi all.
Anyone have any idea how old walking cats have to be until they "Get-
it-on"... Mine are only 3 months old but are Very..Very Close.!...they
spend most of the day doing "Figure eights" and zooming around the
tank. ( thats,when there not Eating ..lol )
Thanks
Paul.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16788 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/16/2006
Subject: Starting a canister filter
I have an Eheim that hasn't worked for about 2 months. The 75 gal tank
has been filtered by an Emperor for right at 75 gals.
I'm about to restart the Eheim but was wondering if it will make any
changes to the tank. The eheim will obviously re-establish itself but
will it affect the water conditions? Should I expect a small cycle even
though the bio-wheel is still going?
Or will it be fine and not affect the water, just let it establish
itself on the existing conditions?

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16789 From: cody adams Date: 4/16/2006
Subject: finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory fish
i have recently moved back to connecticut and the local fish stores are
lacking variety of fish and the have little if any of the fish i am
looking for.I am looking for cichlids such as red devils, green
terrors, jaguar cichlids, red terrors , dovii, jack dempesys , texas
cichlids, and gars , flowerhorns. can anybody tell me some some good
online site to purchase cichlids from with a good selections and also
buying piranahas.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16790 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 4/16/2006
Subject: Re: finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory f...
I recieved this same message on 6 of the other fish groups I belong too. why
not ask one forum and wait for a response instead of cross posting to a
bunch of groups?


Try http://www.tangeldupincichlids.com/ Jeff Rapps is by far probally the
best Known Importer and breeder of tankbusters in the USA, possibly the world.

Rob Renfro
NE Indiana

Proud member of
http://www.ftas.net/
http://www.midwestcichlid.com/
http://www.goodeids.com/

In a message dated 4/16/2006 8:50:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cornbread_05@... writes:
i have recently moved back to connecticut and the local fish stores are
lacking variety of fish and the have little if any of the fish i am
looking for.I am looking for cichlids such as red devils, green
terrors, jaguar cichlids, red terrors , dovii, jack dempesys , texas
cichlids, and gars , flowerhorns. can anybody tell me some some good
online site to purchase cichlids from with a good selections and also
buying piranahas.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16791 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/16/2006
Subject: Re: finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory f...
Try _WWW.Aquabid.com_ (http://www.Aquabid.com)
You should be able to find all of that there at one time or another. I
think I saw people selling the dreaded flowerhorn as well.

Mike


In a message dated 4/16/2006 5:50:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cornbread_05@... writes:

i have recently moved back to connecticut and the local fish stores are
lacking variety of fish and the have little if any of the fish i am
looking for.I am looking for cichlids such as red devils, green
terrors, jaguar cichlids, red terrors , dovii, jack dempesys , texas
cichlids, and gars , flowerhorns. can anybody tell me some some good
online site to purchase cichlids from with a good selections and also
buying piranahas.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16792 From: cody adams Date: 4/17/2006
Subject: Re: finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory f...
whats wrong with the flowerhorn

--- Deenerz@... wrote:

>
> Try _WWW.Aquabid.com_ (http://www.Aquabid.com)
> You should be able to find all of that there at one
> time or another. I
> think I saw people selling the dreaded flowerhorn as
> well.
>
> Mike
>
>
> In a message dated 4/16/2006 5:50:18 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> cornbread_05@... writes:
>
> i have recently moved back to connecticut and the
> local fish stores are
> lacking variety of fish and the have little if any
> of the fish i am
> looking for.I am looking for cichlids such as red
> devils, green
> terrors, jaguar cichlids, red terrors , dovii, jack
> dempesys , texas
> cichlids, and gars , flowerhorns. can anybody tell
> me some some good
> online site to purchase cichlids from with a good
> selections and also
> buying piranahas.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16793 From: Jenny & Wayne Date: 4/17/2006
Subject: Att: Edmonton AB members
Hello everybody

Sorry we haven't replied or written any posts for some time now, but our
luck has changed [:((]

It happened yesterday. We had just finished cleaning the glass tops for
our Oceanic tank. Our tank is 6 feet long and the glass tops come in two
sections of about 36 wide inches each. Each section contains two pieces
of glass, plastic center hinge and adjustable plastic back section.
Anyhow just as we were finishing the task, a 36" front section of one of
the tops (the one with the drilled handle) decided to crack, leaving me
holding two broken pieces of plate glass. Ask us if we were impressed.

We have been out and about everywhere today trying to locate a
replcement top. NO LUCK....

To make a long story short we need the good members of this group to
help us in locating a buisness in the Edmonton area that can supply us
with a new top.

*NOTE* (WE have not approached any local glass shops yet).

We have contacted other tank suppliers, (pet stores, etc.) but found
that the glass tops for the brands they sell are either to small or to
big for the openings on our Oceanic tank. We were wondering if there is
any other supplier for Oceanic within the City of Champions.

We searched the web and all they show are stores in Red Deer and
Calgary..

The size of the broken section is approx: 35 1/4" X 6" X 1/4"

The size of the complete two piece section is 35 14" X 17 3/4"
(including plastic expansion at the back)

Thanks Jenny & Wayne



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16794 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/17/2006
Subject: Re: finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory f...
What's wrong is they are Hybrids.

There are thousands of different kinds of cichlids available to us and I think it is a shame to muddy the genetic waters of any cichlids. The flowerhorn craze is falling off and I hope it dies completely. It has sparked others to hybridize other cichlids and the problem with hybrids is their fry look similar to other pure strains until they grow up. Last year a store near me had some other hybrid and the offspring looked like baby oscars. Some unsuspecting new fish keeper may buy them and then breed one with a normal oscar and sell or give away the offspring as oscars, but they would really be a hybrid.

I have no room in my tanks for hybrids and it bothers me that I may buy a fish thinking it is pure strain and I get a mutt fish which is worthless. I want to watch a regular strain of fish breed and raise their fry into juveniles and then adults. If I get a mixed fish they will not be raising fish the way they would in the wild because they are a frankenfish created in a fish keepers tank.

Many people raise cichlids because they want to watch the breeding behavior of a certain fish. I have some African shelldwellers breeding right now and it is fascinating watching them breed and raise their young in their shells. Now if I somehow got them to breed with a mouthbrooder the offspring may no longer raise babies in shells. Or if I bred a mouth brooder with a fish that raised its young in a cave, now the offspring may no longer brood in the parents mouth. These fish are now useless to the people that wanted them for those qualities.

In China apparently they went nuts over the markings on the fish because some of them had markings that looked like lucky characters or symbols to them. The market for a single fish reached the thousands. People in the U.S. started breeding them thinking they would gain the same amount of value for a fish. And just like the beginning of any good pyramid or Ponzi scam it started great and then crashed. Now the fish are basically worthless and the fry get sold off as feeders or for less than a buck a piece retail.

Another bad result in Asia with the Flowerhorn was many of the Discus breeders dropped their discus breeding and bred flowerhorns and now the bottom fell out of that market and now they essentially have to start over on their discus breeding and it takes a while to start from scratch. It really hurt a lot of people in that industry.

The Aquarium societies I belong to also do not allow hybrids at their bowl shows, in their auctions, and do not give breeder award points for them either. Most people that get into them get out of them once they try to sell a couple batches of offspring.


Caveat Emptor.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: cody adams <cornbread_05@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 11:54:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] finding good websites to buy cichlids and other predatory f...


whats wrong with the flowerhorn

--- Deenerz@... wrote:

>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16795 From: cody adams Date: 4/17/2006
Subject: info on dwarf cichlids
can anybody give me some names and info about some dwarf aggressive
cichlids that can hold they own such as convicts, and jewel cichlids, i
have had jewel cichlids and i had had them with south american cichlids
such as dovii, jaugar and red devil and rule the tank, i have also had
convicts in with red terrors and they ruled the tank. so i am looking
for dwarf cichlids of that nature.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16796 From: kristopher helsing Date: 4/18/2006
Subject: Re: info on dwarf cichlids
Those mentioned arent dwarf cichlids..... look up dwarf cichlids.... they are less aggressive and much smaller than the jewel and convict..

cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: can anybody give me some names and info about some dwarf aggressive
cichlids that can hold they own such as convicts, and jewel cichlids, i
have had jewel cichlids and i had had them with south american cichlids
such as dovii, jaugar and red devil and rule the tank, i have also had
convicts in with red terrors and they ruled the tank. so i am looking
for dwarf cichlids of that nature.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16797 From: cody adams Date: 4/18/2006
Subject: Re: info on dwarf cichlids
well any ciclid that is aggressive thats doesn't get
that big

--- kristopher helsing <punk3r12@...> wrote:

> Those mentioned arent dwarf cichlids..... look up
> dwarf cichlids.... they are less aggressive and much
> smaller than the jewel and convict..
>
> cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: can
> anybody give me some names and info about some dwarf
> aggressive
> cichlids that can hold they own such as convicts,
> and jewel cichlids, i
> have had jewel cichlids and i had had them with
> south american cichlids
> such as dovii, jaugar and red devil and rule the
> tank, i have also had
> convicts in with red terrors and they ruled the
> tank. so i am looking
> for dwarf cichlids of that nature.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
>
>
>
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> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16798 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Blood parrots laid eggs
There are eggs all over a rock in the aquarium. Two blood parrots are
gaurding it pretty heavily. Should I isolate the parrots or eggs or
both or should I just let them be eaten as they will likely not hatch
anyway. I would like to give them at least a chance just in case.
Anyone know how long it would it would be if some were to in fact hatch?

~Leslie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16799 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
I read my last post and it was pretty hard to understand. I guess I
need another cup of coffee to fully wake up.

What I want to know is should I isolate the eggs along with "mom" and
"dad" or should I just isolate the eggs w/ one parent?
I know that the odds of one of these hatching is rare, but I would like
to at least give them a chance, just in case. =) With that said, how
long would it be before they were to hatch.

Also, most eggs are grayish clear in color. However there are a few
that are bright solid white. What does the difference in coloring mean?

Other tanks occupants are pictus cats, fire mouths, giant danios and
kissing gouramis. All of which I know will munch on the eggs if I don't
quickly protect them.

There is a pic of the eggs under the blood parrots album, it's the first
picture. (Aquaticlife is the group with the pic....Uniquaria doesn't
have the photo album open.)

Thanks,
Leslie

Cabot Women's Club! http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16800 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Leslie, Although the fish are hybreds, some of this type of fish are turning
out to be somewhat fertile so there's still a chance these eggs could hatch.
If your goal is to try to hatch and raise them, you can't isolate the eggs
with either one parent or both if you're thinking of moving them. The
disturbance will cause them to eat the eggs. You will either have to keep the
parents and eggs in the tank they're now in, and remove all the other fish, or you
will have to remove just the rock with the eggs to another tank by themselves
(if possible, replace that rock with one very similar if you have one) with an
airstone near them. They should hatch in three days if they're fertile. If
they're not fertile, you'll know by this time tomorrow -- they'll all be white.


The clear eggs are fertile and at this point still possibly fertilized,
whereas the opaque white ones are definitely no good. To help ensure that fungus
doesn't start (with the bad eggs) and spread to all the eggs, you should use
acriflavin (its the major ingredient in Aquarium Pharmaceutical's "Fungus
Cure"), regardless of which tank the eggs are in. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16801 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Thanks Ray.
I do have straight acriflavine. (I have acquired quite the medicine
cabinet for aquariums!) Should I treat the tank now, remove the carbon,
etc...? I hate this stuff, it turns the tank orange.

I think I might move all the other fish into a friends tank. She has an
empty 30 gal that's running with only 1 cichlid and she said I could
place the others in there. She's selling the setup for $75, stand and
all.

I also saw a 100 gal. w/ stand, filters, etc... for $250. If that stand
hadn't been black I would have bought it!

Thanks for the info. If you think of anything else, please let me know.
=)

Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16802 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Yes, treat the tank as soon as you can. Don't have to tell you, the stuff
stains, be careful. Remove the carbon from the filter. When you bring your
other fish to your friend's house, make sure to check the pH and acclimate your
fish if necessary. This may all be for nothing, as the pair might well be
infertile, but there's only one way to find out (well, two ways, if you just want
to pull the eggs out). Ray.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16803 From: cody adams Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: info on green terrors
i went to www.aquascapeonline.com and the have green terror wild from
Ecuador , can anyone tell me if these are true green terrors
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16804 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
If I pull the eggs out...then what do I with them? I have a 10 gal
community tank but I think the tank occupants would munch on the eggs.
I am interested though. It might be easier than removing all the other
fish. I just wouldn't want to upset mom and dad fish. Is that
possible?
~Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sevenspringss@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 3:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic


Yes, treat the tank as soon as you can. Don't have to tell you, the
stuff
stains, be careful. Remove the carbon from the filter. When you bring
your
other fish to your friend's house, make sure to check the pH and
acclimate your
fish if necessary. This may all be for nothing, as the pair might well
be
infertile, but there's only one way to find out (well, two ways, if you
just want
to pull the eggs out). Ray.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16805 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/19/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
You would have to put the eggs in a tank by themselves (no fish). If you put
the eggs in a tank with fish it would be like serving up caviar (no joke).
You then need an airstone near them and acriflavin in the water (and a heater
-- 80 o). Yes it might upset the parents a little. That's the idea of putting
a very similar rock back in place of the one (with the eggs) that you're
removing. They still may notice that the eggs are gone but will blame the other
fish rather than each other. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16806 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
What is an acriflavin? It's my first time to hear that word. Dunno if it is
a medicine or something else. Also what does that do and where could I find
one?



THANKS,
RAYMOND TREMOR
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16807 From: Amalthea X Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Depending on what type of other fish you have in there, you may be
able to leave them. When blood parrots DO have fry, they protect them
pretty aggressively for at least the first few days. Once they're
hatched, you can carefully remove them with a syphon and put them in
another tank.
Amalthea
On Apr 19, 2006, at 10:41 PM, Leslie & Dane Moore wrote:

> If I pull the eggs out...then what do I with them? I have a 10 gal
> community tank but I think the tank occupants would munch on the eggs.
> I am interested though. It might be easier than removing all the
> other
> fish. I just wouldn't want to upset mom and dad fish. Is that
> possible?
> ~Leslie
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of sevenspringss@...
> Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 3:51 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
>
>
> Yes, treat the tank as soon as you can. Don't have to tell you, the
> stuff
> stains, be careful. Remove the carbon from the filter. When you
> bring
> your
> other fish to your friend's house, make sure to check the pH and
> acclimate your
> fish if necessary. This may all be for nothing, as the pair might
> well
> be
> infertile, but there's only one way to find out (well, two ways, if
> you
> just want
> to pull the eggs out). Ray.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16808 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Acriflavin is a dye medication for fish, similar to Methylene Blue and
Malachite Green. It kills many rod bacilli (type of bacteria) and fungi and is
especially effective against the type of fungus that attacks infertile fish eggs
and spreads to fertile ones, killing them once it gets a foothold. Some brands
of fish medications offer it under that name, but if you otherwise can't find
it, it can be found more easily as "Fungus Cure" -- a liquid dye medication
produced by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16809 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Much easier to pull the eggs than to try and syphon all the fry afterwards,
and you can't leave the fry in there with other fish (even though the parents
will try to defend them), as they will get picked off a few at a time; the
reason this wasn't first suggested.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16810 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
I'm taking out my 10 gal tank occupants and moving them to a friends
house this morning.
I'll then place the egg rock into the 10 gal and treat w/ acriflavin
immediately. I should have all of this done by 11 this morning so
hopefully I will catch them in time to not have the fungus spread to
anymore eggs.
Wouldn't that be wild if some actually hatched. We shall see.
Thanks so much! And as always, if you think of anything else I should
know, please tell me. =)
Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sevenspringss@...
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 8:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic


Much easier to pull the eggs than to try and syphon all the fry
afterwards,
and you can't leave the fry in there with other fish (even though the
parents
will try to defend them), as they will get picked off a few at a time;
the
reason this wasn't first suggested.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16811 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Best if you use all clean water (dechlorinated) -- of the right pH and
temperature -- rather than the old water that's in the ten now. Just keep a bare
bottom -- no gravel -- it will make things a lot easier when cleaning off the
bottom of the tank, which you'll need to do in keeping after the fry. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16812 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
Can I put tap water into it and use the dechlorinator treatement? Or
should I buy water to fill it?



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sevenspringss@...
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 9:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic


Best if you use all clean water (dechlorinated) -- of the right pH and
temperature -- rather than the old water that's in the ten now. Just
keep a bare
bottom -- no gravel -- it will make things a lot easier when cleaning
off the
bottom of the tank, which you'll need to do in keeping after the fry.
Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16813 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Egg setup
OK.
I've cleaned out the 10 of all gravel and gave it a rinse. I've added a
new biowheel but placed the old media into it for the beneficials. Is
that OK?
I added new water which is pH great w/ a dechlorinator. I guess that's
acceptable...?
Now...how do I get this rock out of this tank without disturbing the
eggs and ticking off the parents. I'm going to get bit. Which is
understandable. But still I don't want to knock off the eggs.
~L




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16814 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
You can use tap water, at the right temperature, if you use dechlorinator or
chloramine remover with it.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16815 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Egg setup
You won't be able to use the biofilter, unless you can figure a way to
prevent the fry from getting drawn up into it. You really don't need a filter at
this stage, but you can add a sponge filter (air-operated) later in the week,
which will be fine. Their bioload is almost nonexistant and will very gradually
build as they grow.

They may well try to bite you so be prepared -- don't drop the rock if that
happens. They really don't have teeth as you think of teeth; they have tiny
little teeth like rough sandpaper in their lips and can't really hurt you, its
just the surprise of it. Try using a net to keep in between them and the rock
and put your other hand underneath the rock. Don't remove it too fast unless
you really need to, as you can knock some of the eggs off. Just watch you
don't crush any eggs with your fingers. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16816 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Egg setup
I had done just that before I read this. I put a very large net into
the tank near the rock and it was quickly and pretty fiercely attacked
by dad. So I put him and the little lady parrot into the net. I did
scoop the rock but unfortunately I got about 5-8 eggs under a finger and
they were smooshed. I put another rock in it's place and it is now
being closely gaurded...so sad!

I put a netting on the filter intake so I don't think any fry can get
through. Let me know if you think otherwise and I will just take the
whole thing off since it isn't needed.

About three days to hatch? If that is right then I should know if these
will hatch by tonight or in the morning. We shall see. =)

Leslie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sevenspringss@...
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 12:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Egg setup


You won't be able to use the biofilter, unless you can figure a way to
prevent the fry from getting drawn up into it. You really don't need a
filter at
this stage, but you can add a sponge filter (air-operated) later in the
week,
which will be fine. Their bioload is almost nonexistant and will very
gradually
build as they grow.

They may well try to bite you so be prepared -- don't drop the rock if
that
happens. They really don't have teeth as you think of teeth; they have
tiny
little teeth like rough sandpaper in their lips and can't really hurt
you, its
just the surprise of it. Try using a net to keep in between them and
the rock
and put your other hand underneath the rock. Don't remove it too fast
unless
you really need to, as you can knock some of the eggs off. Just watch
you
don't crush any eggs with your fingers. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16817 From: Amalthea X Date: 4/20/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
I find you don't need or want to save all of the fry, and they're
less delicate than the eggs. I've done it before with fine results.
Amalthea
On Apr 20, 2006, at 9:23 AM, sevenspringss@... wrote:

> Much easier to pull the eggs than to try and syphon all the fry
> afterwards,
> and you can't leave the fry in there with other fish (even though
> the parents
> will try to defend them), as they will get picked off a few at a
> time; the
> reason this wasn't first suggested.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·
> ´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16818 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: green algae bloom
here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a algae
problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes the tank
was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again able to
see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again and it
did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should do
about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects itself
but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not overfeed
the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can eat.
The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the light
is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should I do
to stop this problem

Help

Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16819 From: paul Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
try to keep your lights on for 10 hours ... ie off all day but put them on at night ...
Im in South East UK..and dont use any lights until around 2pm..then turn them off at around 1130pm.. Give it a try ... also Sun light could be a factor ... if you tank is direct sun light try to cover it with a blacket while your lights are off .. this will also help your plants to grow .
Hope this helps.
Paul.


Steve Martinez <sdm1969@...> wrote:
here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a algae
problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes the tank
was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again able to
see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again and it
did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should do
about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects itself
but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not overfeed
the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can eat.
The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the light
is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should I do
to stop this problem

Help

Steve







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16820 From: leonard stewart Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
HI Steve
Just a quick question is the tank in direct sunlight or indirect sunlight.
I had a tank that i could not keep clean because it did get to much sun once i move it problem was solved.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16821 From: Trevor Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
What kind of lighting do you use and for how long?

- Trevor

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Martinez" <sdm1969@...> wrote:
>
> here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
> established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a algae
> problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
> called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes the tank
> was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again able to
> see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
> again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again and it
> did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should do
> about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects itself
> but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not overfeed
> the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can eat.
> The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the light
> is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should I do
> to stop this problem
>
> Help
>
> Steve
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16822 From: Trevor Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Unless you're trying to grow plants (or algae :D ), the lighting is
really for you, not the fish. You could simply turn the lights on when
you're feeding or watching the fish and keep them off otherwise, and
the fish won't mind (assuming that the room isn't completely dark
otherwise).

- Trevor

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, paul <paul633uk@...> wrote:
>
> try to keep your lights on for 10 hours ... ie off all day but put
them on at night ...
> Im in South East UK..and dont use any lights until around
2pm..then turn them off at around 1130pm.. Give it a try ... also Sun
light could be a factor ... if you tank is direct sun light try to
cover it with a blacket while your lights are off .. this will also
help your plants to grow .
> Hope this helps.
> Paul.
>
>
> Steve Martinez <sdm1969@...> wrote:
> here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
> established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a algae
> problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
> called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes the tank
> was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again able to
> see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
> again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again and it
> did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should do
> about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects itself
> but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not overfeed
> the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can eat.
> The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the light
> is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should I do
> to stop this problem
>
> Help
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
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francisco bay area United kingdom South africa
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
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Service.
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>
>
>
> Send instant messages to your online friends
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16823 From: Trevor Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: Blood Parrots eggs w/ pic
There was a letter in TFH magazine recently where someone was asking
about Blood Parrots. The answer mentioned that it was rumored that
some people had managed to breed them, but they had never seen photos
to prove it. If they do hatch, you may want to consider sending some
pictures in. :)

- Trevor

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, sevenspringss@... wrote:
>
> Leslie, Although the fish are hybreds, some of this type of fish
are turning
> out to be somewhat fertile so there's still a chance these eggs
could hatch.
> If your goal is to try to hatch and raise them, you can't isolate
the eggs
> with either one parent or both if you're thinking of moving them. The
> disturbance will cause them to eat the eggs. You will either have
to keep the
> parents and eggs in the tank they're now in, and remove all the
other fish, or you
> will have to remove just the rock with the eggs to another tank by
themselves
> (if possible, replace that rock with one very similar if you have
one) with an
> airstone near them. They should hatch in three days if they're
fertile. If
> they're not fertile, you'll know by this time tomorrow -- they'll
all be white.
>
>
> The clear eggs are fertile and at this point still possibly fertilized,
> whereas the opaque white ones are definitely no good. To help
ensure that fungus
> doesn't start (with the bad eggs) and spread to all the eggs, you
should use
> acriflavin (its the major ingredient in Aquarium Pharmaceutical's
"Fungus
> Cure"), regardless of which tank the eggs are in. Ray
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16824 From: Trevor Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: Blood parrots laid eggs
One of the things cichlids are famous for is their parental abilities.
They'll probably be fine if you just leave them alone, assuming the
eggs hatch.

I have a Midas that occasionally lays eggs, even though she's the only
one of her kind in the tank. She guards them faithfully for a few days
before giving up, at which point they disappear. But the other fish
(including some aggressive ones) have learned to leave them alone! :)

- Trevor

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> There are eggs all over a rock in the aquarium. Two blood parrots are
> gaurding it pretty heavily. Should I isolate the parrots or eggs or
> both or should I just let them be eaten as they will likely not hatch
> anyway. I would like to give them at least a chance just in case.
> Anyone know how long it would it would be if some were to in fact hatch?
>
> ~Leslie
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16825 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Leonard..

No it is not in direct sunlight ...the window is about 8 feet away and it is placed along a back
wall..even when the sunlight comes in the window ..it is not anywhere near it

Thanks
Steve

--- leonard stewart <dhmicop@...> wrote:

> HI Steve
> Just a quick question is the tank in direct sunlight or indirect sunlight.
> I had a tank that i could not keep clean because it did get to much sun once i move it problem
> was solved.
>
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16826 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Trevor

I used the light kit that came with the tank, 15 watt lamps...two of them. I usually leave the
lights on for about 12-14 hours and off all night long..

Thanks
Steve

--- Trevor <trevor@...> wrote:

> What kind of lighting do you use and for how long?
>
> - Trevor
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Martinez" <sdm1969@...> wrote:
> >
> > here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
> > established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a algae
> > problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
> > called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes the tank
> > was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again able to
> > see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
> > again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again and it
> > did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should do
> > about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects itself
> > but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not overfeed
> > the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can eat.
> > The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the light
> > is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should I do
> > to stop this problem
> >
> > Help
> >
> > Steve
> >
>
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16827 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Trevor..

I am not growing any plants at all.. I just would love to have a clear tank ..lol

Is there anyway to get rid of the algae??

Steve
--- Trevor <trevor@...> wrote:

> Unless you're trying to grow plants (or algae :D ), the lighting is
> really for you, not the fish. You could simply turn the lights on when
> you're feeding or watching the fish and keep them off otherwise, and
> the fish won't mind (assuming that the room isn't completely dark
> otherwise).
>
> - Trevor
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, paul <paul633uk@...> wrote:
> >
> > try to keep your lights on for 10 hours ... ie off all day but put
> them on at night ...
> > Im in South East UK..and dont use any lights until around
> 2pm..then turn them off at around 1130pm.. Give it a try ... also Sun
> light could be a factor ... if you tank is direct sun light try to
> cover it with a blacket while your lights are off .. this will also
> help your plants to grow .
> > Hope this helps.
> > Paul.
> >
> >
> > Steve Martinez <sdm1969@...> wrote:
> > here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
> > established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a algae
> > problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
> > called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes the tank
> > was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again able to
> > see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
> > again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again and it
> > did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should do
> > about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects itself
> > but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not overfeed
> > the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can eat.
> > The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the light
> > is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should I do
> > to stop this problem
> >
> > Help
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> >
> >
> >
> > SPONSORED LINKS
> > Marine biologist Biology Bucharest romania San
> francisco bay area United kingdom South africa
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> >
> >
> > Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Send instant messages to your online friends
> http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16828 From: cody adams Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: a question about drift wood
yes i have a piece of driftwood and it will not sink for nothing , i
was told to let it soak for weeks and i have , and it will not sink.
what is the best way to go about this is it possible to glue shells
and rocks to get to get it to sink, does anyone has any ideas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16829 From: Daniel Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: a question about drift wood
If it is on a piece of slate then barrie it under your gravel and put some
heavier rocks on top of both sides of the slate sticking out .If not then
you might need to tie it to a rock with some string or fishing line untill
all the air in the wood exscapes which took serveral weeks one time I need
to sink a piece of driftwood.
Daniel

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cody adams
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 5:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] a question about drift wood


yes i have a piece of driftwood and it will not sink for nothing , i
was told to let it soak for weeks and i have , and it will not sink.
what is the best way to go about this is it possible to glue shells
and rocks to get to get it to sink, does anyone has any ideas






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16830 From: leonard stewart Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: a question about drift wood
I have a piece of drift wood in the back ofmy tank and i have screwsin the wood and suction cups are on the screws and it is attached to the glass.

cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: yes i have a piece of driftwood and it will not sink for nothing , i
was told to let it soak for weeks and i have , and it will not sink.
what is the best way to go about this is it possible to glue shells
and rocks to get to get it to sink, does anyone has any ideas






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16831 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: a question about drift wood
I have a piece that I have had for 2 years and it is still floating...

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cody adams
Sent: Friday, 21 April 2006 16:12
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] a question about drift wood


yes i have a piece of driftwood and it will not sink for nothing , i
was told to let it soak for weeks and i have , and it will not sink.
what is the best way to go about this is it possible to glue shells
and rocks to get to get it to sink, does anyone has any ideas






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16832 From: llrdhsktr Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
UV sterilizer will kill algae in the water and keep it from
reblooming. I've had mine for years and haven't had an algae bloom
since.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Martinez" <sdm1969@...>
wrote:
>
> here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
> established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a
algae
> problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
> called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes the
tank
> was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again able
to
> see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
> again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again and
it
> did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should
do
> about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects
itself
> but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not
overfeed
> the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can
eat.
> The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the
light
> is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should I
do
> to stop this problem
>
> Help
>
> Steve
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16833 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/21/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
where can I get one of those???

--- llrdhsktr <llrdhsktr@...> wrote:

> UV sterilizer will kill algae in the water and keep it from
> reblooming. I've had mine for years and haven't had an algae bloom
> since.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Martinez" <sdm1969@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
> > established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a
> algae
> > problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
> > called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes the
> tank
> > was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again able
> to
> > see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
> > again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again and
> it
> > did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should
> do
> > about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects
> itself
> > but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not
> overfeed
> > the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can
> eat.
> > The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the
> light
> > is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should I
> do
> > to stop this problem
> >
> > Help
> >
> > Steve
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16834 From: harry perry Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom/Other options./Steve.
It's normal to have an algae bloom about the time yours occurred, in a new tank. There are a lot of things going on in a tank. Chemicals added to a tank to take care of a problem makes it harder to figure out how to solve a problem.

If you used Algae Destroyer obviously you don't have live plants. Live plants could help you a lot.

Frequent water changes could make the problem worse. The nitrogen cycle is in a constant state of change.

Algae is a one celled plant. As a plant it needs food and light. Put your lights on a timer($5.00) at Walmart, for 12 hours a day.7 to 7 works for me.

The strategy is this; excess nutrients allows algae to exist.Excess nutrients are; fish waste, fish food, light. You need to eliminate the excess nutrients and the algae will go away. If you don't balance the tank no matter what you do the algae will keep coming back.

You didn't say how the tank was set up. Substrate, how many fish, what kind etc. this would help us help you.

Harry

llrdhsktr <llrdhsktr@...> wrote: UV sterilizer will kill algae in the water and keep it from
reblooming. I've had mine for years and haven't had an algae bloom
since.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Martinez" <sdm1969@...>
wrote:
>
> here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
> established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a
algae
> problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
> called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes the
tank
> was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again able
to
> see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
> again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again and
it
> did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should
do
> about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects
itself
> but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not
overfeed
> the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can
eat.
> The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the
light
> is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should I
do
> to stop this problem
>
> Help
>
> Steve
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16835 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: Re: Re harry
Harry

I have two plecos..each about 8-10 inches long, a balla shark that is about 8 inches long and 7
small tetras. That is all I have in the tank. Why will live plants help the algae problem??
Also what is the best way to get the tank balanced...Kinda new at this..

Thanks
Steve
--- harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:

> It's normal to have an algae bloom about the time yours occurred, in a new tank. There are a lot
> of things going on in a tank. Chemicals added to a tank to take care of a problem makes it
> harder to figure out how to solve a problem.
>
> If you used Algae Destroyer obviously you don't have live plants. Live plants could help you a
> lot.
>
> Frequent water changes could make the problem worse. The nitrogen cycle is in a constant state
> of change.
>
> Algae is a one celled plant. As a plant it needs food and light. Put your lights on a
> timer($5.00) at Walmart, for 12 hours a day.7 to 7 works for me.
>
> The strategy is this; excess nutrients allows algae to exist.Excess nutrients are; fish waste,
> fish food, light. You need to eliminate the excess nutrients and the algae will go away. If you
> don't balance the tank no matter what you do the algae will keep coming back.
>
> You didn't say how the tank was set up. Substrate, how many fish, what kind etc. this would help
> us help you.
>
> Harry
>
> llrdhsktr <llrdhsktr@...> wrote: UV sterilizer will kill algae in the water and keep it
> from
> reblooming. I've had mine for years and haven't had an algae bloom
> since.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Martinez" <sdm1969@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
> > established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a
> algae
> > problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
> > called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes the
> tank
> > was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again able
> to
> > see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
> > again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again and
> it
> > did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should
> do
> > about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects
> itself
> > but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not
> overfeed
> > the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can
> eat.
> > The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the
> light
> > is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should I
> do
> > to stop this problem
> >
> > Help
> >
> > Steve
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�>
> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if
> CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re:
> old subject)" <-
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> .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16836 From: Karen Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: HELP--brown problem
Hi, My sand and live rock are turning brown. What am I doing wrong?
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16837 From: james bruce moat Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: krazyzeke
i am looking for a lady that used to be a member and may still be . her
first name was KIM . her handle was crazy zeke or krazzeke . i may have
the spelling wrong . but if someone happens across a person who,s name
maybe close to that , could you pass along this message for me
please.she used to have pond fish and some tanks . we talked a lot and
i would like to hear from her again. thankyouto anyone who may be of
asistance in this matter . she was from around the seatale area i
believe.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16838 From: Ash Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1174
ive heard that you need to boil the driftwood for a few hours in slightly
salty water to get it to sink

----- Original Message -----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cody adams
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 5:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] a question about drift wood


yes i have a piece of driftwood and it will not sink for nothing , i
was told to let it soak for weeks and i have , and it will not sink.
what is the best way to go about this is it possible to glue shells
and rocks to get to get it to sink, does anyone has any ideas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16839 From: Ash Date: 4/22/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1174
there will be more competition for nutrients = less algae.

----- Original Message -----
Message 15
From: "Steve Martinez" sdm1969@...
Date: Sat Apr 22, 2006 7:24am(PDT)
Subject: Re: Re harry

Why will live plants help the algae problem??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16840 From: paul whitby Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Walking cats( Clarias batrachus ) are mateing.
Hi all.
Has anyone else got these Catfish..? if so what happens next.? sorry
to sound a bit thick but i have no idea what to do .. The female is
busy digging in the stones and Geroge is very aggressive to all other
fish that come close to the " Nest.? " .
Has anyone breed these befour.? ..they spend hours doing "Figure 8ts"

My Plac got a good beating and my 8" Oscars had to go to another tank
cos they were getting beat-up..!!

Hope you can help.
Paul.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16841 From: Andreas Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Re: Walking cats( Clarias batrachus ) are mateing.
It is very common for mating fish to become very aggresive. Often they kill
other tank mates in order to "secure" the eggs.

YOu need to seperate them one way or another.

Andreas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16842 From: cody adams Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: info on blue jack dempseys
yes i recently purchased a blue jack from the LFS and the guy there
told me u can breed two blue jack together and some of the off spring
will be blue jacks and some will be regular jack dempseys , but i read
an article on the internet that u have to breed a blue jack dempsey
with a regular jack dempsey to get blue jacks. Can anybody give me some
insight on this , and also what is the different between blue jack and
regular jacks ? Is it just the color of the cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16843 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Re: info on blue jack dempseys
with a little effort on your end you can find a lot of info on the subject
yourself.
goto www.google.com and insert blue jack dempsey you will come up with over
100,000 hits on the subject:


the below was cut and pasted from
http://www.tropicalresources.net/phpBB2/fish_profiles_octofaciatus_blue.php


Common name: Blue Dempsey, Electric Blue Dempsey


Scientific name: Archocentrus octofaciatus, var. blue

Origin: Veracruz, Mexico to Honduras (aquarium accidental discovery by Hector
Luzardo)

Adult Length: 8 to 10 inches

Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallon

Sexing: Difficult without vent examination

Breeding: See below

Diet Requirements: Not a picky eater...typical carnivore faire will do just
fine. Cichlid pellets, earthworms, beefheart, feeder fish, etc...

General Information: Easily labeled as one of the most beautiful freshwater
fish in the hobby, not much scientific data is available for the Blue Dempsey
also commonly called the Electric Blue Dempsey. As a result, internet "hearsay"
including falsehoods have spread and become prevalent beliefs. One of these
falsehoods is the belief that this fish is a hybrid which is not true. Electric
Blue Dempseys are a natural occurring variant of the Jack Dempsey, a popular
aquarium fish from Central America. The fact is that the variant was not
recognized and developed until recent years after being accidently discovered in an
aquarium by Hector Luzardo. It is thought that the species was missed
previously due to early breeders of Jack Dempseys considered the smaller "blueish"
fry to be runts and were generally culled from their spawns. What is known now
is that the blue variant fish grows somewhat smaller than the regular Dempsey
and while still a territorial cichlid, they are less agressive than the other.


The principle reason that Electric Blue Dempseys are not widely available on
the market, and that prices remain high for the species ($30-$60), is due to
the fact that breeding Jack Dempseys to achieve Blue Dempseys is a tricky
proposition. Two blues bred together will not produce a full blue offspring. To
achieve full blue offspring, you must first start with a blue male and breed him
with a regular color female Jack Dempsey. The offspring that this pair creates
will appear as regular Jack Dempseys, but the difference is that they will
carry the blue gene. This group of fish must now be grown out to the size where
a female can be determined and selected and bred back to the original blue
male. The offspring of this pairing will produce an indeterminant number of true
blue variant fish. Obviously a project like this is not for the faint of heart
and will require enormous growout type of facilities.


the below was cut and pasted from

http://www.tropicalresources.net/phpBB2/fish_profiles_octofaciatus_blue.php


In a message dated 4/23/2006 5:57:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cornbread_05@... writes:
yes i recently purchased a blue jack from the LFS and the guy there
told me u can breed two blue jack together and some of the off spring
will be blue jacks and some will be regular jack dempseys , but i read
an article on the internet that u have to breed a blue jack dempsey
with a regular jack dempsey to get blue jacks. Can anybody give me some
insight on this , and also what is the different between blue jack and
regular jacks ? Is it just the color of the cichlid


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16844 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Hermit Crab?!
Are Hermit Crabs Aquatic? I mean do they live in water w/ my fish in
the tank? I thought they were land animals. My brother just gave me 1
for reasons unkown, maybe he thought they go in the tank. What do I
put it in/feed it?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16845 From: kristopher helsing Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
what kind of hermit... big or little... if you have a pic it would help greatly.... some are land but saltwater have hermits too...

"Aaron R. Martin" <anonymous122899@...> wrote: Are Hermit Crabs Aquatic? I mean do they live in water w/ my fish in
the tank? I thought they were land animals. My brother just gave me 1
for reasons unkown, maybe he thought they go in the tank. What do I
put it in/feed it?






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16846 From: kristopher helsing Date: 4/23/2006
Subject: Re: info on blue jack dempseys
Do your OWN research... never trust the LFS!!!!!!

cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: yes i recently purchased a blue jack from the LFS and the guy there
told me u can breed two blue jack together and some of the off spring
will be blue jacks and some will be regular jack dempseys , but i read
an article on the internet that u have to breed a blue jack dempsey
with a regular jack dempsey to get blue jacks. Can anybody give me some
insight on this , and also what is the different between blue jack and
regular jacks ? Is it just the color of the cichlid





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Marine biologist Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS


Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

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---------------------------------





---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16847 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
they are land animals. They need warm sand and humid climate - they need to
be bathed once a week. You put declorinated water in a dish and put them in
upside down. Once they flip over, put them in a container with paper towels
to dry before putting them back in the home. They are fed food from the
store (crushed) as well as shredded carrot and raisins. They need fresh
declorinated water daily as well as some things to climb on in the home.

If you have any more questions, feel free!

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron R. Martin" <anonymous122899@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 12:23 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hermit Crab?!


Are Hermit Crabs Aquatic? I mean do they live in water w/ my fish in
the tank? I thought they were land animals. My brother just gave me 1
for reasons unkown, maybe he thought they go in the tank. What do I
put it in/feed it?






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16848 From: DIWA WINKU Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
No, THEY are AMPHIBIAN!!
They act like a scavanger, but if you put in REEF tank,they will attack your TurboSnail and STEAL the SHELL.
You put them in fresh water,..........u KILL them

Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...> wrote:
they are land animals. They need warm sand and humid climate - they need to
be bathed once a week. You put declorinated water in a dish and put them in
upside down. Once they flip over, put them in a container with paper towels
to dry before putting them back in the home. They are fed food from the
store (crushed) as well as shredded carrot and raisins. They need fresh
declorinated water daily as well as some things to climb on in the home.

If you have any more questions, feel free!

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron R. Martin" <anonymous122899@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 12:23 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hermit Crab?!


Are Hermit Crabs Aquatic? I mean do they live in water w/ my fish in
the tank? I thought they were land animals. My brother just gave me 1
for reasons unkown, maybe he thought they go in the tank. What do I
put it in/feed it?






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16849 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
There are literally hundreds of species of Hermit Crabs, some terrestrial,
but most are entirely aquatic (marine). You will need to find out which type
you have. If its aquatic, you can keep it with your salt water fish (provided
they are big enough) if this is what you have. You can feed it tid-bits of
fish, shrimp, crab or clam. If you can find small clams, they will open them.
They will even eat left-over flake food that you might be feeding to your
fish. They also like algae. Be prepared to supply him with an ever-increasing
size of an assortment of empty gastropod shells as he'll need a new larger one
about once a month as he continually grows. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16850 From: Thomas W. Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
Mr, Martin
There only two of hermit crabs that I know of. The Marine hermit and
the land hermit. We had both. The marine hermit come in many colors.
They can grow I guess to about a inch or two. They can live on basic
foods. They can not however live in a fresh water tank. My brother has
four in his five gallon hex tank. With five dwarf seahorses and a
pipefish. He also has in there an horsecrab.
As for the land hermits ours died the first week. I think it was to
cold for them. I have been told that they as easy to keep as marine
hermits. That will eat most anything. The food we got for ours was
rather cheap. I think the biggest issue for ours was the temperature.
Almost forgot they a wet sponge. The sponges for them are easy to
find. The last thing will be needed are extra empty shells. You might
have better luck then we did.

Thanks
Tommybill44

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron R. Martin"
<anonymous122899@...> wrote:
>
> Are Hermit Crabs Aquatic? I mean do they live in water w/ my fish in
> the tank? I thought they were land animals. My brother just gave me
1
> for reasons unkown, maybe he thought they go in the tank. What do I
> put it in/feed it?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16851 From: ryfraph13 Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hermit Crab?!
Good News is the little thing is still alive. I will be taking it to
the LFS as soon as they open. I put it in an empty 15 gallon tank
with a flower vase full of hot water wrapped w/ a damp towel and put
a heater into the water on high. There is visible moisture on the
tank walls, so much that I can barely see in, so thats good becuase
it means its warm enough and has plenty of humidity. I
googled "hermit crabs" and the first site I went to said minimum
temp of 72 and minimum of 70% humidity. The cats are fascinated by
our over night guest, all of them have been staring at the tank all
night. My brother got the thing at the Stockton Asparagus Festival,
I
guess the way the traveling carnivals give goldfish as a "prize". It
seems so irresponsible that they give away living creatures with not
even as much as an info sheet on how to care for it.

Thanks for the help.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron R. Martin"
<anonymous122899@...> wrote:
>
> Are Hermit Crabs Aquatic? I mean do they live in water w/ my fish
in
> the tank? I thought they were land animals. My brother just gave
me 1
> for reasons unkown, maybe he thought they go in the tank. What do
I
> put it in/feed it?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16852 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Odd Question
I'm going to be redoing a few things with my home office and was wondering
if the average wooden file cabinate could support a 29 gallon aquarium? One
will fit from the measurements I took, but am wondering about the weight.

Thanks in advance for yalls's replies!

-Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16853 From: dragonman_999 Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Gill Problem
My goldfish appears to not be using one gill and the other gill is
almost constantly and spastically in use! Anybody have any clue to
what this is and if possible some advice? Please respond ASAP.

Thanks
Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16854 From: 42 Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: Odd Question
It should work... I've used bed side table before and file cabinets are much more sturdy

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: I'm going to be redoing a few things with my home office and was wondering
if the average wooden file cabinate could support a 29 gallon aquarium? One
will fit from the measurements I took, but am wondering about the weight.

Thanks in advance for yalls's replies!

-Steve



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16855 From: cody adams Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: wolf fish
has anybody kept or knows anything about the wolf fish i seen one at a
local pet store and i am really thinking about getting one, I have read
up on it , but i would to here some info from someone who has some
experience with this fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16856 From: 42 Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/Tanks/mytank10.htm
http://www.aquariacentral.com/fishinfo/fresh/wolffish.shtml
http://forums.waterwolves.com/index.php?showtopic=88536
http://www.riverwonders.com/catalog/i12.html

cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote:
has anybody kept or knows anything about the wolf fish i seen one at a
local pet store and i am really thinking about getting one, I have read
up on it , but i would to here some info from someone who has some
experience with this fish








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



---------------------------------
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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16857 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: dojos and goldfish
When I bought my 4 goldfish at petsmart they had dojos in with them. I am
wondering is that a good combo? I thought dojos were "scaleless" and more
apt to be extremely sensitive to the water conditions caused by the goldfish
waste factories. I have been thinking of getting a couple to add, may even
consider getting a couple to go in my livebearer/cory cat tank as well. Any
tips on this situation would be appreciated.
MM & MP, '73
Tricia, KG6PNC

A 2 sites for fun

http://www.neopets.com/refer.phtml?username=trycya

http://www.gopetslive.com/inviter/?Trycya

Already have a Neopets account, interested in trying out one of the premium
accounts? Ask me for a referral and include your Neopets username ONLY and
I will Neomail you a referral.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16858 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Why not get an African Tiger Fish?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16859 From: cody adams Date: 4/24/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
can u tell me about the African Tiger Fish, there is
little to no information about on the internet

--- sevenspringss@... wrote:

> Why not get an African Tiger Fish?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16860 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Traira: wolf fish
I think the Brazilian name is "Traira". Although it is a very
voracious fish, anglers are still more voracious and use to eat them
after fishing.

http://www.pesca.com.br/mundodapesca/peixe/doce/traira.htm

best wishes, Thomas Mundo Novo, Brazil.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cody adams" <cornbread_05@...>
wrote:
>
> has anybody kept or knows anything about the wolf fish i seen one
at a
> local pet store and i am really thinking about getting one, I have
read
> up on it , but i would to here some info from someone who has some
> experience with this fish
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16861 From: 42 Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
That's because African Tiger Fish is another name for Wolf Fish

cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: can u tell me about the African Tiger Fish, there is
little to no information about on the internet

--- sevenspringss@... wrote:

> Why not get an African Tiger Fish?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16862 From: cody adams Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
they are different fish but they are in the same
family

--- 42 <wassergottin@...> wrote:

> That's because African Tiger Fish is another name
> for Wolf Fish
>
> cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: can u
> tell me about the African Tiger Fish, there is
> little to no information about on the internet
>
> --- sevenspringss@... wrote:
>
> > Why not get an African Tiger Fish?
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
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>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
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> romania San francisco bay area United kingdom
> South africa
>
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16863 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
So wolf fish is a generalized word for voracious large characins

(like on

http://www.aquariacentral.com/fishinfo/fresh/atigerf.shtml)

except perhaps for Piranhas?

Thomas - Mundo Novo - Brazil.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, 42 <wassergottin@...> wrote:
>
> That's because African Tiger Fish is another name for Wolf Fish
>
> cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: can u tell me about the
African Tiger Fish, there is
> little to no information about on the internet
>
> --- sevenspringss@... wrote:
>
> > Why not get an African Tiger Fish?
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Marine biologist Biology Bucharest romania San
francisco bay area United kingdom South africa
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
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> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC
and save big.
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16864 From: cody adams Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Hydrocynus Vittatus is the african tiger fish , and
the Hoplias malabaricus is the wolf fish

--- 42 <wassergottin@...> wrote:

> That's because African Tiger Fish is another name
> for Wolf Fish
>
> cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: can u
> tell me about the African Tiger Fish, there is
> little to no information about on the internet
>
> --- sevenspringss@... wrote:
>
> > Why not get an African Tiger Fish?
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Marine biologist Biology Bucharest
> romania San francisco bay area United kingdom
> South africa
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
> Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones
> from your PC and save big.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16865 From: cody adams Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Hydrocynus Vittatus is the african tiger fish , and
the Hoplias malabaricus is the wolf fish
--- Thomas Schlemmermeyer <evolthomas@...> wrote:

> So wolf fish is a generalized word for voracious
> large characins
>
> (like on
>
>
http://www.aquariacentral.com/fishinfo/fresh/atigerf.shtml)
>
> except perhaps for Piranhas?
>
> Thomas - Mundo Novo - Brazil.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, 42
> <wassergottin@...> wrote:
> >
> > That's because African Tiger Fish is another name
> for Wolf Fish
> >
> > cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: can u tell
> me about the
> African Tiger Fish, there is
> > little to no information about on the internet
> >
> > --- sevenspringss@... wrote:
> >
> > > Why not get an African Tiger Fish?
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
> when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of
> the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject
> (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> >
> >
> >
> > SPONSORED LINKS
> > Marine biologist Biology Bucharest
> romania San
> francisco bay area United kingdom South africa
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> >
> >
> > Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
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> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
> Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular
> phones from your PC
> and save big.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16866 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Found a couple of pics here of the African Tiger Fish.

http://www.jjphoto.dk/fish_archive/warm_freshwater/hydrocynus_vittatus.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: "cody adams" <cornbread_05@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: wolf fish


> Hydrocynus Vittatus is the african tiger fish , and
> the Hoplias malabaricus is the wolf fish
> --- Thomas Schlemmermeyer <evolthomas@...> wrote:
>
>> So wolf fish is a generalized word for voracious
>> large characins
>>
>> (like on
>>
>>
> http://www.aquariacentral.com/fishinfo/fresh/atigerf.shtml)
>>
>> except perhaps for Piranhas?
>>
>> Thomas - Mundo Novo - Brazil.
>>
>>
>> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, 42
>> <wassergottin@...> wrote:
>> >
>> > That's because African Tiger Fish is another name
>> for Wolf Fish
>> >
>> > cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: can u tell
>> me about the
>> African Tiger Fish, there is
>> > little to no information about on the internet
>> >
>> > --- sevenspringss@... wrote:
>> >
>> > > Why not get an African Tiger Fish?
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
>> > > removed]
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> > __________________________________________________
>> > Do You Yahoo!?
>> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
>> protection around
>> > http://mail.yahoo.com
>> >
>> >
>> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
>> when replying,
>> thanks.
>> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
>> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
>> ((((º>
>> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
>> that is NOT
>> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of
>> the original
>> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject
>> (was re: old
>> subject)" <-
>> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
>> .·´¯`·..<º
>> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
>> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
>> matter.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > SPONSORED LINKS
>> > Marine biologist Biology Bucharest
>> romania San
>> francisco bay area United kingdom South africa
>> >
>> > ---------------------------------
>> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>> >
>> >
>> > Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>> >
>> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
>> to:
>> > AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> >
>> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
>> Yahoo! Terms of
>> Service.
>> >
>> >
>> > ---------------------------------
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums
>> >
>> >
>> > ---------------------------------
>> > New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular
>> phones from your PC
>> and save big.
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
>> removed]
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16867 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: wolf fish
Found a couple of the Wolf Fish with tank and care specs.

http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/Fishindx/tigrfish.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: "The Dragon Hunter" <dragon.hunter@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: wolf fish


> Found a couple of pics here of the African Tiger Fish.
>
> http://www.jjphoto.dk/fish_archive/warm_freshwater/hydrocynus_vittatus.htm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cody adams" <cornbread_05@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 10:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: wolf fish
>
>
>> Hydrocynus Vittatus is the african tiger fish , and
>> the Hoplias malabaricus is the wolf fish
>> --- Thomas Schlemmermeyer <evolthomas@...> wrote:
>>
>>> So wolf fish is a generalized word for voracious
>>> large characins
>>>
>>> (like on
>>>
>>>
>> http://www.aquariacentral.com/fishinfo/fresh/atigerf.shtml)
>>>
>>> except perhaps for Piranhas?
>>>
>>> Thomas - Mundo Novo - Brazil.
>>>
>>>
>>> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, 42
>>> <wassergottin@...> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > That's because African Tiger Fish is another name
>>> for Wolf Fish
>>> >
>>> > cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: can u tell
>>> me about the
>>> African Tiger Fish, there is
>>> > little to no information about on the internet
>>> >
>>> > --- sevenspringss@... wrote:
>>> >
>>> > > Why not get an African Tiger Fish?
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
>>> > > removed]
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > __________________________________________________
>>> > Do You Yahoo!?
>>> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
>>> protection around
>>> > http://mail.yahoo.com
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
>>> when replying,
>>> thanks.
>>> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
>>> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
>>> ((((º>
>>> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
>>> that is NOT
>>> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of
>>> the original
>>> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject
>>> (was re: old
>>> subject)" <-
>>> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
>>> .·´¯`·..<º
>>> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
>>> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
>>> matter.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > SPONSORED LINKS
>>> > Marine biologist Biology Bucharest
>>> romania San
>>> francisco bay area United kingdom South africa
>>> >
>>> > ---------------------------------
>>> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.
>>> >
>>> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
>>> to:
>>> > AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>> >
>>> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
>>> Yahoo! Terms of
>>> Service.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > ---------------------------------
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > ---------------------------------
>>> > New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular
>>> phones from your PC
>>> and save big.
>>> >
>>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
>>> removed]
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
>> protection around
>> http://mail.yahoo.com
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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>>
>>
>> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
>> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
>> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
>> to
>> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
>> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
>> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
>> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16868 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Utricularia as a fry hiding place
I would like to know if the carnivorous plant Utricularia can be used
as a hiding place for fish fry, of if the fry may get eaten by
Utricularia ? (They are livebearers, the fish.)

Thomas - Mundo Novo, Brazil.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16869 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: Utricularia as a fry hiding place
Thomas, Yes, there have been reports documented to the effect that
Bladderwort can trap fish fry, especially the smaller egglayer fry. I
don't believe any of the 20 or so species of Utricularia are capable of
trapping most larger livebearer fry, especially the more popular (in
the trade) U. minor, which can only trap smaller fry of Betta size, but
some of the species growing larger utricles (catching bladders) may be
able to trap guppy fry. These may include U.neottiodes, U. stellaris
and U. flexuosa, all found in your area (Brazil). Ray
\

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas Schlemmermeyer"
<evolthomas@...> wrote:
>
>
> I would like to know if the carnivorous plant Utricularia can be used
> as a hiding place for fish fry, of if the fry may get eaten by
> Utricularia ? (They are livebearers, the fish.)
>
> Thomas - Mundo Novo, Brazil.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16870 From: Steve Martinez Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Help w/ Uv Sterilizer decision
Hey Group

I need some advise ...I am looking into buying a UV Steralizer for my
fish tank. My tank size is 55 Gal. Does anyone have any
recommendations of which one I should buy and where to buy it. I have
looked at a few but to be honest I am new to this and I would like to
get it right. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Thanks
Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16871 From: Charity Thornhill Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: New here.
My name is Charity, I have a freshwater aquarium with platies, an
angelfish, and a bristlenose algae eater. I've searched high and low
for a group that I could join so that I could get assistance and give
advice when I need it.

I've have had my 55 gallon aquarium for 3 years; before that I had a
30 gallon.

I look forward to getting to know everybody and thanks for letting me
join this group!
Charity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16872 From: paul Date: 4/25/2006
Subject: Re: New here.
Hi there..and welcome.
We are a good bunch here , Many are very experanced in fish keeping.
and will always give good advice.
All the best
Paul.

Charity Thornhill <charity_j_thornhill@...> wrote:
My name is Charity, I have a freshwater aquarium with platies, an
angelfish, and a bristlenose algae eater. I've searched high and low
for a group that I could join so that I could get assistance and give
advice when I need it.

I've have had my 55 gallon aquarium for 3 years; before that I had a
30 gallon.

I look forward to getting to know everybody and thanks for letting me
join this group!
Charity







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16873 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/26/2006
Subject: Re: Utricularia as a fry hiding place
Thanks for the hints.The livebearers would be simple ornamental
Guppies and pretty large ornamental Xiphophorous hybrids.

The Utricularia is Tropical and Brazilian, I will let identify it.

Are there any good keys?

Thomas


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Thomas, Yes, there have been reports documented to the effect
that
> Bladderwort can trap fish fry, especially the smaller egglayer
fry. I
> don't believe any of the 20 or so species of Utricularia are
capable of
> trapping most larger livebearer fry, especially the more popular
(in
> the trade) U. minor, which can only trap smaller fry of Betta
size, but
> some of the species growing larger utricles (catching bladders)
may be
> able to trap guppy fry. These may include U.neottiodes, U.
stellaris
> and U. flexuosa, all found in your area (Brazil).
Ray
> \
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas Schlemmermeyer"
> <evolthomas@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I would like to know if the carnivorous plant Utricularia can be
used
> > as a hiding place for fish fry, of if the fry may get eaten by
> > Utricularia ? (They are livebearers, the fish.)
> >
> > Thomas - Mundo Novo, Brazil.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16874 From: kristopher helsing Date: 4/26/2006
Subject: Re: Help w/ Uv Sterilizer decision
what kind of tank... also i would reccomend that you get one which exposes the water to the UV for a longer period of time..... lets say if its a higher gph pumping it then get somthing with twist style... if its slower..... the typical would be ok..... but this all depends on your application according to what ive read.

Steve Martinez <sdm1969@...> wrote: Hey Group

I need some advise ...I am looking into buying a UV Steralizer for my
fish tank. My tank size is 55 Gal. Does anyone have any
recommendations of which one I should buy and where to buy it. I have
looked at a few but to be honest I am new to this and I would like to
get it right. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Thanks
Steve





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16875 From: Tank Trinkets Date: 4/26/2006
Subject: Re: New here.
Welcome to the group Charity and I am pretty sure whatever questions you
have someone in this group will know the answers. Take care and have a
great day.



Shane

www.tanktrinkets.com <http://www.tanktrinkets.com/>





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Charity Thornhill
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 9:52 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: New here.



My name is Charity, I have a freshwater aquarium with platies, an
angelfish, and a bristlenose algae eater. I've searched high and low
for a group that I could join so that I could get assistance and give
advice when I need it.

I've have had my 55 gallon aquarium for 3 years; before that I had a
30 gallon.

I look forward to getting to know everybody and thanks for letting me
join this group!
Charity







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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Marine
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iology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=S
outh+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=HPM_nDJbj1M7rAx3MGd2cg> kingdom

South
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16876 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 4/26/2006
Subject: Re: New here.
Welcome Charity, this is a great group with alot of really nice people.

Shannon

Charity Thornhill <charity_j_thornhill@...> wrote:
My name is Charity, I have a freshwater aquarium with platies, an
angelfish, and a bristlenose algae eater. I've searched high and low
for a group that I could join so that I could get assistance and give
advice when I need it.

I've have had my 55 gallon aquarium for 3 years; before that I had a
30 gallon.

I look forward to getting to know everybody and thanks for letting me
join this group!
Charity







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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---------------------------------
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Visit your group "AquaticLife" on the web.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16877 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/27/2006
Subject: Re: New here.
Hello, my name is thomas,

some 26 - 22 years ago, I had a 30 gallons tank with Pelvicachromis
pulcher (very nice mating and subsequent parents´ care observations),
Pterophyllum scalare (actually this fish is too big for a 30 gallons
tank, but one female survived nevertheless and as she had no male
partner, she always deposited the eggs alone on a leaf exerting
parental care until the eggs got destroyed anyway); by luck I also
got a mating pair of Ancistrus, and these fish always reproduced
themselves in a magnificent and rather obscure manner (not revealing
many details of their life history). Among the livebearers I managed
to breed in a non-professional way, there are guppies (Poecilia
reticulata) and the Jamaica-Livebearers (Limia melanogaster). And I
also reproduced with success Trichogaster leeri.

Then when I was 19 years old or so, I had many other things to do and
I gave up fish keeping.

Platies I never came to try out.

But now I am starting again in a rather ludicrous manner. I am
keeping small Guppies (in a 20 Gallons tank), and large Xiphophoros-
Hybrids (I think they are neither platies nor swordtails, but rather
a wild mixture between the two species) in a some 130 gallons tank or
so.

At the same time I am keeping interesting water plants, such as
tropical Myriophyllum, Utricularia, Elodea and Salvinia sp.

As I am meanwhile a biologist with Ph-d., what attracts me most in
these ludicrous, still rather undefined expeditions between pet-shops
and evolutionary biology is the question of

phenotypic plasticity,

that is the question how members of the same species, and even of the
same genotype, may present different phenotypes, or put in a non-
academic way, how members of the same species, and even of the same
genotype, may look so differently according to variations in growth,
food, tank etc.

In fish, unfortunately it is not possible to get identical genotypes
in a non-academic way, but the fry of the same parents are at least
very strong related in genetic terms. Only gynogenetic fish, such as
the all female Amazon mollies (Poecilia formosa) would allow for the
study of identical or almost identical genotypes, but this again is a
rather academic topic.

But waterplants that are obtained through vegetative reproduction
(reproduction without flowers, by simple budding) constitute perfect
clones with identical genotypes, allowing the observation of
phenotypic plasticity.

this is my welcome somewhere on the halfway between pet-shop and
science,

best wishes, Thomas Schlemmermeyer - Mundo Novo - Brazil.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Charity Thornhill"
<charity_j_thornhill@...> wrote:
>
> My name is Charity, I have a freshwater aquarium with platies, an
> angelfish, and a bristlenose algae eater. I've searched high and
low
> for a group that I could join so that I could get assistance and
give
> advice when I need it.
>
> I've have had my 55 gallon aquarium for 3 years; before that I had
a
> 30 gallon.
>
> I look forward to getting to know everybody and thanks for letting
me
> join this group!
> Charity
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16878 From: paul whitby Date: 4/27/2006
Subject: Black Hair Algie
Hello all.
Over the past few weeks iv been putting plants into my 180G tank..but
iv found some black "Hairs" growing on my pots/ rocks etc.!..Iv not
seen this before until i started putting Real plants in.!

Is this Black Hair ok.??
Thakns
Paul.
OH ps.. i feed my plants ever 2 weeks...lights are on 10hours a
day.2x30 watt aqua glow..water change 10% per week with RO Water.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16879 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Adding some driftwood...
I have a few pieces of drift wood that I want to put back into the tank.
They have each been in the tank before but they have been out for about
a year. The last time I put a piece in, it grew white all over so I
removed it.
What do I need to do to get this stuff ready other than soak it in
water?

Thanks,
Leslie (and a lot of thankful tropical fish.)




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16880 From: kb1dva Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Help -
My Oscars have white spots on them - I don't have a clue what's wrong, or
how to fix it Emily



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16881 From: hank voss Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kb1dva" <vze3pd7a@...> wrote:
>
> My Oscars have white spots on them - I don't have a clue what's
wrong, or
> how to fix it Emily

-----------------------------

Emily:
Your oscars have " ich " its like you getting a cold. If you
have a spare tank put tjem in there and raise the temp. to around
80F and go to your LFS and get medicine for ich your local store can
give you the proper meds. If no spare tank youll have to treat the
main tank. Be sure to take out any carbon in your filter as it will
remove the meds.The oscars probably got chilled somehow if your
other fish are in good condition they should not catch it.

Regards Hank










>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16882 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
A good Ich medication is Quick Cure, which is effective and yet easy on the
fish. Ask for that. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16883 From: hank voss Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kb1dva" <vze3pd7a@...> wrote:
>
> My Oscars have white spots on them - I don't have a clue what's
wrong, or
> how to fix it Emily
>
>

HI:
If you use the Quick cure as Ray suggested be careful as a lot of
tetras are sensitive to it.

Hank






>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16884 From: Patrick Date: 4/28/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
How big is the tank? What are the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels? Can you
give a more detailed description of what is on the fish? If it looks like
salt, it is ich. If it does not look like salt, then it is not ich.

I do not suggest using anything but salt (1 teaspoon per 5 gallons) and to
raise the heat to no less than 86°F for at least a week. The salt aids gill
functioning while the temperature is up, while the temperature kills every
ich parasite in the tank.

Patrick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16885 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
If its Ich, make that 1 tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons (at 86 o), until 3
days after you see no more signs of the Ich. Could take a week (or less, if
its very mild), or possibly 10 days. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16886 From: deborahgd14 Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
Stick with what Ray says and get the temp. up to 86. I have tried
meds and the heat method seems to work the best. Deborah D

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kb1dva" <vze3pd7a@...> wrote:
>
> My Oscars have white spots on them - I don't have a clue what's
wrong, or
> how to fix it Emily
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16887 From: cody adams Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: a question out of curiousity
I am not sure where everyones from but i am from connecticut in the
north east of the usa. I was wondering has anyone keep fish native to
where the stay out of the lakes, rivers, brooks, ponds and streams. Are
there any that are aggressive and can be compatible with central and
south american cichlids , i have read that types of bass are closley
linked to cichlids , does anyone have any insight about keeping fish
native to where there from. Species such as bass , perch, pike,
different species of catfish and whatever else may be native to your
particular region.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16888 From: Donna Ransome Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
I have read that native fishes in this part of the world need cold water
with high oxygen content that is nearly impossible to duplicate in the
aquarium and not compatible with any other aquarium fish. Also that they
get too large…the only one mentioned as even possible is the Pumpkin Seed
Sunny (?) which is still a very large fish at maturity for an aquarium.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cody adams
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 4:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] a question out of curiousity



I am not sure where everyones from but i am from connecticut in the
north east of the usa. I was wondering has anyone keep fish native to
where the stay out of the lakes, rivers, brooks, ponds and streams. Are
there any that are aggressive and can be compatible with central and
south american cichlids , i have read that types of bass are closley
linked to cichlids , does anyone have any insight about keeping fish
native to where there from. Species such as bass , perch, pike,
different species of catfish and whatever else may be native to your
particular region.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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Marine
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area

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iology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=S
outh+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=HPM_nDJbj1M7rAx3MGd2cg> kingdom

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16889 From: hank voss Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cody adams" <cornbread_05@...>
wrote:
>
> I am not sure where everyones from but i am from connecticut in the
> north east of the usa. I was wondering has anyone keep fish native
to
> where the stay out of the lakes, rivers, brooks, ponds and streams.
Are
==================================================

Cody:
The northern native fish require cooler cooler water conditions.
You can keep them for a while but they usually start to waste away You
can keep sunfish and most darters also some of the dace but they still
require cooler water than the tropicals

Regards Hank







> there any that are aggressive and can be compatible with central and
> south american cichlids , i have read that types of bass are closley
> linked to cichlids , does anyone have any insight about keeping fish
> native to where there from. Species such as bass , perch, pike,
> different species of catfish and whatever else may be native to
your
> particular region.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16890 From: cody adams Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
what u mean by waste away and what are darter and dace

--- hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote:

> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cody adams"
> <cornbread_05@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I am not sure where everyones from but i am from
> connecticut in the
> > north east of the usa. I was wondering has anyone
> keep fish native
> to
> > where the stay out of the lakes, rivers, brooks,
> ponds and streams.
> Are
> ==================================================
>
> Cody:
> The northern native fish require cooler cooler
> water conditions.
> You can keep them for a while but they usually start
> to waste away You
> can keep sunfish and most darters also some of the
> dace but they still
> require cooler water than the tropicals
>
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > there any that are aggressive and can be
> compatible with central and
> > south american cichlids , i have read that types
> of bass are closley
> > linked to cichlids , does anyone have any insight
> about keeping fish
> > native to where there from. Species such as bass ,
> perch, pike,
> > different species of catfish and whatever else
> may be native to
> your
> > particular region.
> >
>
>
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16891 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Native coldwater fish are a little bit difficult to keep if they are
from cold water, as it is much more difficult to cool water
temperature down than to heat water temperature up.

However, some guys may be living in tropical regions such as it is the
case with me.

Even in Tropical regions it is more difficult to keep native fish than
to keep aquarium bred fish.

I tried, for example, once to keep a Tropical Native livebearer
(together with a student of mine), but we did not succed in doing so,
I suppose we failed because these fish did not eat the flake food we
offered, and then all the flakes caused a water deterioration.
Unfortunately, I do not have time nor possibility, to run for live
food.

So, I guess on another occasion I will try to keep this particular
livebearer once again, being however more careful with the food doses
and I will also vary the flakes, trying out several brands.

I am, for instance, always astonished about the high flake consumption
rates obtained by ornamental, aquarium bred guppies (Poecilia
reticulata). It seems to me that during many aquarium generations some
strains of this species were transformed into true flake-eating
machines. I don´t even know why professional breeders spent so much
time, effort, and money in breeding Artemia for them, at least my
guppies always eat flake food right from the first day of life, and I
am now trying to select strains for even more voracious flake eating
in the juvenile phase.

Perhaps, wild livebearer species or other native species could be
customized to flake eating in a short period of time as well?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cody adams" <cornbread_05@...>
wrote:
>
> I am not sure where everyones from but i am from connecticut in the
> north east of the usa. I was wondering has anyone keep fish native
to
> where the stay out of the lakes, rivers, brooks, ponds and streams.
Are
> there any that are aggressive and can be compatible with central and
> south american cichlids , i have read that types of bass are closley
> linked to cichlids , does anyone have any insight about keeping fish
> native to where there from. Species such as bass , perch, pike,
> different species of catfish and whatever else may be native to
your
> particular region.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16892 From: cody adams Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
qhats the name of this fish u guys were trying to
raise

--- Thomas Schlemmermeyer <evolthomas@...> wrote:

>
> Native coldwater fish are a little bit difficult to
> keep if they are
> from cold water, as it is much more difficult to
> cool water
> temperature down than to heat water temperature up.
>
> However, some guys may be living in tropical regions
> such as it is the
> case with me.
>
> Even in Tropical regions it is more difficult to
> keep native fish than
> to keep aquarium bred fish.
>
> I tried, for example, once to keep a Tropical Native
> livebearer
> (together with a student of mine), but we did not
> succed in doing so,
> I suppose we failed because these fish did not eat
> the flake food we
> offered, and then all the flakes caused a water
> deterioration.
> Unfortunately, I do not have time nor possibility,
> to run for live
> food.
>
> So, I guess on another occasion I will try to keep
> this particular
> livebearer once again, being however more careful
> with the food doses
> and I will also vary the flakes, trying out several
> brands.
>
> I am, for instance, always astonished about the high
> flake consumption
> rates obtained by ornamental, aquarium bred guppies
> (Poecilia
> reticulata). It seems to me that during many
> aquarium generations some
> strains of this species were transformed into true
> flake-eating
> machines. I don´t even know why professional
> breeders spent so much
> time, effort, and money in breeding Artemia for
> them, at least my
> guppies always eat flake food right from the first
> day of life, and I
> am now trying to select strains for even more
> voracious flake eating
> in the juvenile phase.
>
> Perhaps, wild livebearer species or other native
> species could be
> customized to flake eating in a short period of time
> as well?
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cody adams"
> <cornbread_05@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I am not sure where everyones from but i am from
> connecticut in the
> > north east of the usa. I was wondering has anyone
> keep fish native
> to
> > where the stay out of the lakes, rivers, brooks,
> ponds and streams.
> Are
> > there any that are aggressive and can be
> compatible with central and
> > south american cichlids , i have read that types
> of bass are closley
> > linked to cichlids , does anyone have any insight
> about keeping fish
> > native to where there from. Species such as bass ,
> perch, pike,
> > different species of catfish and whatever else
> may be native to
> your
> > particular region.
> >
>
>
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16893 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 4/29/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
I live in minneapolis, MN. I have a couple of large aquariums in which I
keep native fish and goldfish. In the 55 gal I have two comets, 2 bluegill
sunfish and a bullhead (the bluegills and bullhead are from a lfs that sells
gamefish). In the 39 gal I have two fancy goldfish, 2 fatheads (the 3rd died
recently) and a baby bullhead - I moved the baby to the smaller tank after
the other bullhead all the sudden had a growth spurt and got a big old
mouth...I was worried :)

I've had the native fish for less than a year and I hope they don't start
wasting away like someone mentioned. For now they seem to be doing really
well, and I'm not planning on adding anymore fish to their aquariums, so
with lots of live plants and regular water changes hopefully it will be a
little while before they outgrow (because then, I will be in trouble!)

They all feed readily on goldfish flakes, bloodworms, sinking pellets, etc.
The bullheads like to hide either at the bottom of the tank or under a leaf,
but the bluegills are very interactive. The comets must have taught them how
to beg; the larger bluegill is an aggressive eater and will bite fingers
than enter the tank :) The fatheads are from a bait store. I would not
recommend getting pet fish from a bait store; most of them died but the ones
that are left have been healthy long enough that I'm confident they won't
spread anything to the other fish.

I posted some pics on my lj; the 2nd-5th pics are my two coldwater tanks:
http://avic-litee.livejournal.com/53121.html

Oh yeah.....it gets really hot in the summer and the AC at my boyfriend's
house doesn't always work. I got a couple of mini-fans to blow across the
top of the tank (only used them on the 55 so far) and it does actually cool
the water a bit. I am very careful to position them in such a way that they
can not fall into the tank.

Emily


On 4/29/06, cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote:
>
> I am not sure where everyones from but i am from connecticut in the
> north east of the usa. I was wondering has anyone keep fish native to
> where the stay out of the lakes, rivers, brooks, ponds and streams. Are
> there any that are aggressive and can be compatible with central and
> south american cichlids , i have read that types of bass are closley
> linked to cichlids , does anyone have any insight about keeping fish
> native to where there from. Species such as bass , perch, pike,
> different species of catfish and whatever else may be native to your
> particular region.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16894 From: hank voss Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, cody adams <cornbread_05@...>
wrote:
>
> what u mean by waste away and what are darter and dace
=========================================================

Cody:
When i say wasteing away they become slimmer and slimmer to
the point of being hollowed bellied.If you Google image search you
can see some pict. of them.Sunfish,darters,bullhead cats usually
adapt well to tank conditions some of the dace do not do so well
though.The fish above will eat most food types while the ones that
waste away need different types (live).Its not impossible to keep
them but it requires a lot of work on your part.In most states its
against the law to collect natives without a license.


Regards Hank











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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16895 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
I wonder if that's what happened to some of my fatheads...maybe they were
not getting a balanced diet.
Emily


On 4/30/06, hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, cody adams <cornbread_05@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > what u mean by waste away and what are darter and dace
> =========================================================
>
> Cody:
> When i say wasteing away they become slimmer and slimmer to
> the point of being hollowed bellied.If you Google image search you
> can see some pict. of them.Sunfish,darters,bullhead cats usually
> adapt well to tank conditions some of the dace do not do so well
> though.The fish above will eat most food types while the ones that
> waste away need different types (live).Its not impossible to keep
> them but it requires a lot of work on your part.In most states its
> against the law to collect natives without a license.
>
>
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16896 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Yes, Bass (Micropterus) are related to Cichlids, being in the same Order
(Percomorphi), even if somewhat distantly so. One problem with trying to keep
them both together is their different temperature requirements. Then too,
various states have different laws pertaining to keeping gamefish, especially
since there may be minimum size limits. You can occassionally get around the
temperature thing by keeping it at a happy medium enjoyed by both species. My
Tiger Muskellunge gets along great with my Alligator Gar and my M. salmoides gets
along fine with the Apistogrammas.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16897 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Under aquarium keepers, its vernacular name is Speckled Mosquitofish,
sometimes referred to also as a One-Spot-Livebearer, or even dusky
Millions Fish.

Probably several distinct biological species circulate under these
vernacular names. We do not reveal the scientific name of our species,
as the name has not even been published so far. But a specialist
already described the species and he does know which one it is.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote:
>
> qhats the name of this fish u guys were trying to
> raise
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16898 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: Help -
Emily, No doubt you have already started on a cure for your Oscar by now,
but actually there are two ways to approach the treatment of Ich. To treat
larger, hardier (those that will take medication with less stress), a faster
method is to raise the temperature up to 80 o, as Hank suggested, so that the Ich
is exposed to the medication at a faster rate. This will somewhat increase
the fish's metabolism as well, while upping his immune system to ward off
secondary infections at this time by other pathogens. The other method of
increasing the temperature to at least 86 o, as Patrick first suggested, does not
include the use of medications, which is especially more stress-free particularly
for those species less tolerant of some of these medications. Most tropical
fish can tolerate the higher temperature for the time needed to effect a cure,
even if there is some stress involved; it is hardly ever life-threatening. It
is highly recommended to increase your aeration during this period of
increased temperature, to allow for faster exchange of gases at the water's surface
ensuring for as high an oxygen content of the water at that temperature as can
be possible, with a faster release of carbon dioxide to the air. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16899 From: Trevor Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
What kind of filtration are you using?

- Trevor

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Steve Martinez <sdm1969@...> wrote:
>
> Trevor..
>
> I am not growing any plants at all.. I just would love to have a
clear tank ..lol
>
> Is there anyway to get rid of the algae??
>
> Steve
> --- Trevor <trevor@...> wrote:
>
> > Unless you're trying to grow plants (or algae :D ), the lighting is
> > really for you, not the fish. You could simply turn the lights on when
> > you're feeding or watching the fish and keep them off otherwise, and
> > the fish won't mind (assuming that the room isn't completely dark
> > otherwise).
> >
> > - Trevor
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, paul <paul633uk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > try to keep your lights on for 10 hours ... ie off all day but put
> > them on at night ...
> > > Im in South East UK..and dont use any lights until around
> > 2pm..then turn them off at around 1130pm.. Give it a try ... also Sun
> > light could be a factor ... if you tank is direct sun light try to
> > cover it with a blacket while your lights are off .. this will also
> > help your plants to grow .
> > > Hope this helps.
> > > Paul.
> > >
> > >
> > > Steve Martinez <sdm1969@> wrote:
> > > here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
> > > established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a
algae
> > > problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
> > > called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes
the tank
> > > was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again
able to
> > > see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
> > > again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again
and it
> > > did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should do
> > > about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects itself
> > > but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not
overfeed
> > > the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can
eat.
> > > The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the
light
> > > is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should
I do
> > > to stop this problem
> > >
> > > Help
> > >
> > > Steve
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
.·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> > MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16900 From: Trevor Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
You can definitely cut down on the amount of time the lights are on.

- Trevor

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Steve Martinez <sdm1969@...> wrote:
>
> Trevor
>
> I used the light kit that came with the tank, 15 watt lamps...two of
them. I usually leave the
> lights on for about 12-14 hours and off all night long..
>
> Thanks
> Steve
>
> --- Trevor <trevor@...> wrote:
>
> > What kind of lighting do you use and for how long?
> >
> > - Trevor
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Martinez" <sdm1969@> wrote:
> > >
> > > here we go again... I have a 55 gallon tank and it has been
> > > established for about 2 months now. I have lately been having a
algae
> > > problem. It is definately a aggae bloom. I bought a product
> > > called "Algae destroyer" It worked great....within 30 minutes
the tank
> > > was crystal clear. Everyone was very happy that we were again
able to
> > > see the fish. BUT. Slowly the tank became cloudy again. Now it is
> > > again looking like pea soup. I added the Algae distroyer again
and it
> > > did absoultely nothing..at all. I was reccommended that I should do
> > > about a 20% water change everyday until the problem corrects itself
> > > but after a week of water changes it was not helped. I do not
overfeed
> > > the fish at all..usually only once a day and only what they can
eat.
> > > The only thing that I have read that I don't follow is that the
light
> > > is on for most of the day but off during the night. What should
I do
> > > to stop this problem
> > >
> > > Help
> > >
> > > Steve
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16901 From: Trevor Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
There are many native North American fish that are small enough to
keep and that don't require a chiller to keep the water cold. All that
is required in many states to capture them is a fishing license. There
is a good book on the subject called North American Native Fishes for
the Home Aquarium, by David M. Schleser. (Unfortunately, though, it
appears to be quite rare - it looks like a used copy starts at $49.75
( http://www.bestwebbuys.com/0764103679 ). And to think I got mine
from the bargain table at Borders for a couple of bucks!)

- Trevor

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> I have read that native fishes in this part of the world need cold water
> with high oxygen content that is nearly impossible to duplicate in the
> aquarium and not compatible with any other aquarium fish. Also that
they
> get too large…the only one mentioned as even possible is the Pumpkin
Seed
> Sunny (?) which is still a very large fish at maturity for an aquarium.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of cody adams
> Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 4:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] a question out of curiousity
>
>
>
> I am not sure where everyones from but i am from connecticut in the
> north east of the usa. I was wondering has anyone keep fish native to
> where the stay out of the lakes, rivers, brooks, ponds and streams. Are
> there any that are aggressive and can be compatible with central and
> south american cichlids , i have read that types of bass are closley
> linked to cichlids , does anyone have any insight about keeping fish
> native to where there from. Species such as bass , perch, pike,
> different species of catfish and whatever else may be native to your
> particular region.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
>
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16902 From: paul whitby Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Black Hair Algie
Any ideas..? iv got this black hair type algie on my rocks/pots etc...
This has only started since i started putting real plans in.
Thanks.
paul..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16903 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
oh ok thank you

--- sevenspringss@... wrote:

> Yes, Bass (Micropterus) are related to Cichlids,
> being in the same Order
> (Percomorphi), even if somewhat distantly so. One
> problem with trying to keep
> them both together is their different temperature
> requirements. Then too,
> various states have different laws pertaining to
> keeping gamefish, especially
> since there may be minimum size limits. You can
> occassionally get around the
> temperature thing by keeping it at a happy medium
> enjoyed by both species. My
> Tiger Muskellunge gets along great with my Alligator
> Gar and my M. salmoides gets
> along fine with the Apistogrammas.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16904 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
whats a bull head

--- Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote:

> I live in minneapolis, MN. I have a couple of large
> aquariums in which I
> keep native fish and goldfish. In the 55 gal I have
> two comets, 2 bluegill
> sunfish and a bullhead (the bluegills and bullhead
> are from a lfs that sells
> gamefish). In the 39 gal I have two fancy goldfish,
> 2 fatheads (the 3rd died
> recently) and a baby bullhead - I moved the baby to
> the smaller tank after
> the other bullhead all the sudden had a growth spurt
> and got a big old
> mouth...I was worried :)
>
> I've had the native fish for less than a year and I
> hope they don't start
> wasting away like someone mentioned. For now they
> seem to be doing really
> well, and I'm not planning on adding anymore fish to
> their aquariums, so
> with lots of live plants and regular water changes
> hopefully it will be a
> little while before they outgrow (because then, I
> will be in trouble!)
>
> They all feed readily on goldfish flakes,
> bloodworms, sinking pellets, etc.
> The bullheads like to hide either at the bottom of
> the tank or under a leaf,
> but the bluegills are very interactive. The comets
> must have taught them how
> to beg; the larger bluegill is an aggressive eater
> and will bite fingers
> than enter the tank :) The fatheads are from a bait
> store. I would not
> recommend getting pet fish from a bait store; most
> of them died but the ones
> that are left have been healthy long enough that I'm
> confident they won't
> spread anything to the other fish.
>
> I posted some pics on my lj; the 2nd-5th pics are my
> two coldwater tanks:
> http://avic-litee.livejournal.com/53121.html
>
> Oh yeah.....it gets really hot in the summer and the
> AC at my boyfriend's
> house doesn't always work. I got a couple of
> mini-fans to blow across the
> top of the tank (only used them on the 55 so far)
> and it does actually cool
> the water a bit. I am very careful to position them
> in such a way that they
> can not fall into the tank.
>
> Emily
>
>
> On 4/29/06, cody adams <cornbread_05@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I am not sure where everyones from but i am from
> connecticut in the
> > north east of the usa. I was wondering has anyone
> keep fish native to
> > where the stay out of the lakes, rivers, brooks,
> ponds and streams. Are
> > there any that are aggressive and can be
> compatible with central and
> > south american cichlids , i have read that types
> of bass are closley
> > linked to cichlids , does anyone have any insight
> about keeping fish
> > native to where there from. Species such as bass ,
> perch, pike,
> > different species of catfish and whatever else
> may be native to your
> > particular region.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
> when replying, thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)"
> <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16905 From: chris topher Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: Black Hair Algie
spores might have come with the plants, palnted tanks
often do well in keeping algae controlled, competition
for nutrients and such...

had problems with blue grean algae recently and it was
suggested that i use peroxide to control it, worked
like a charm...

noticed hair algae in another tank, used the peroxide
again with success, no harm came to the fish or
plants...

suggestion was 1oz per 10 gallons, i used about half
that...

woody

--- paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote:

> Any ideas..? iv got this black hair type algie on my
> rocks/pots etc...
> This has only started since i started putting real
> plans in.
> Thanks.
> paul..
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16906 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: 150 gallon, what filters
I just bought a 150 gallon fresh water tank and I'm shopping around
for a filter/pump.
the measurment of the tank is 72"Lx20"Wx25.5"H
What is the best filter to use?
This is the one I'm looking at right now:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd==1&item=w62127087 thanks
magdalena
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16907 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: 150 gallon, what filters
~> questioning statement~
If you where going to keep a couple hundred neon teras in a semi planted tank
you might get away with minimal filteration, bigger fish and more fish equal
bigger waste loads.
I think the choice would depend on how you are going to use the tank .
Fish of choice and what do you want the over all look of the tank to be.

If this is going to be a show tank viewable by not only yourself, your
family but by others as well maybe a couple canister filters tucked underneath
would be your best solution.

If you don't mind a hang on back filteration a couple Aquaclear 500's would
be a good choice. For any tank over 75 gallons I'd personally suggest at LEAST
2 filters, incase one of the filters go down the tank will still have some
sort of filteration. Makes it easier when cleaning filters also to have one
viable filter while the other is down for cleaning.

Canister filters are great for larger tanks and hide more or less unnoticable
in a lot of tanks but they cost some $$ while other filters like Hang on back
filters work great, cost less money BUT look ugly in most situations.

By the way the EBAY link has been removed, so if the deal sounded way to good
it probally was....

Rob Renfro
NE Indiana

Proud member of
www.fishforums.com( sunday night Auctions 7pm EDT-10pmEDT )
www.midwestcichlid.com





In a message dated 4/30/2006 2:57:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
eandtuta1924@... writes:
I just bought a 150 gallon fresh water tank and I'm shopping around
for a filter/pump.
the measurment of the tank is 72"Lx20"Wx25.5"H
What is the best filter to use?
This is the one I'm looking at right now:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd==1&item=w62127087 thanks
magdalena







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16908 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: green algae bloom
Steve, The fact that you are not growing plants is 85% of your problem.
Algae grows on nutrients (with the help of light, for photosynthesis). Any fish
food you are adding to the tank will eventually be converted into nutrients
(nitrates) for the algae, after first being broken down from fish waste into
ammonia, then nitrites (then finally nitrates). Live plants use up these
nutrients and make it difficult, if not impossible for algae to out-compete them
depending both on the quantity of plants and the amount of light. The algae will
soon cease to exist or will not be able to get a foot-hold in the beginning if
properly planned. Without plants, about the only way you are going to
eliminate algae is to keep the lighting at an absolute minimum and keep up with a
very frequent regimen of large water changes to remove the excess nutrients.
Depending upon your tap water, this may not even be enough to stop algae, as
with some tap waters containing nutrients favorable to algae, the frequent water
changing can sometimes create algae blooms and be counterproductive to what
you are trying to achieve. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16909 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: info on aquariums
does anybody know of any type of place to get a particular large
aquarium and get for a cheap price , a particular guy told me i could
get a 300 gallon lobster tank from a farmers supply store or something
of that nature does anyone have any ideas what he talking about or any
place to get a tank for a good price . the largetst tank i have is a
125 gallon and with tank , stand , heater , and lid it came up to like
800 dollars or more . so i am just looking for ideas where to find
aquariums for cheap or ideas of things to use as an aquarium , when i
was in highschool i had a teacher who turned a refrigator into an
aquarium so can anybody give me some ideas or information and just
plain help.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16910 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Amway is one of the best know farmers supply markets, widespread throughout
many of the more rural towns at least in the Northeast; this may be what he was
talking about. Don't know if they have lobster tanks or not -- you'd have
to contact them.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16911 From: hank voss Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, cody adams <cornbread_05@...>
wrote:
>
> whats a bull head
>

Hi:
Its a catfish comes in yellow, black and brown and will eat
anything that fits in its mouth and is tough as nails.


PS
Will get to several pounds in weight.
Regards Hank












> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
> > when replying, thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> > ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> > that is NOT important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> > message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)"
> > <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> > .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> > matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16912 From: hank voss Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cody adams" <cornbread_05@...>
wrote:
>
> does anybody know of any type of place to get a particular large
> aquarium and get for a cheap price , a particular guy told me i
could
> get a 300 gallon lobster tank from a farmers supply store or
something
> of that nature does anyone have any ideas what he talking about or
any
> place
========================================================

Cody:
Do you want a fish tank or just something that holds water? If
its a tank and your not in a rush check the want ads every once in a
while there are some good deals there I still use refridgerator
liners for storage,also made storage tanks out of marine plywood.
If its not for looks anything that holds water will work ive
seen quite large fiberglass vats but they are quite expensive.

Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16913 From: Dragon Hunter Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Bicher
I have a bicher that I've had to seperate out. He's currently in a 10 for
now while his new home is being prepared. (To good a fish to return,
already very friendly towards me even if not to my gouramis in my 60).

Was wondering what fish are safe with him and vice versa. Thanks in
advance!

-Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16914 From: magdalena jones Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: 150 gallon, what filters
Hi and thanks for your reply! I love this group.

I have a pair of blood parrots and 5 other south american cichlids in a 55 gallon now and I'm upgrading to the bigger tank so I can let them grow and add more fish.
I just have hanging on the back filters now. I haven't found hanging filters strong enough for that large tank though, but I'm gonna look for those Aquaclear 500's you talked about.

The filter on Ebay is stil there, do you that's a good one?

thanks again for your quick respons

Magdalena
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16915 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
what are fiber glass vabs and what do u mean by
storage tanks, what is marine ply wood and
refrigarator liner

--- hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote:

> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cody adams"
> <cornbread_05@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > does anybody know of any type of place to get a
> particular large
> > aquarium and get for a cheap price , a particular
> guy told me i
> could
> > get a 300 gallon lobster tank from a farmers
> supply store or
> something
> > of that nature does anyone have any ideas what he
> talking about or
> any
> > place
>
========================================================
>
> Cody:
> Do you want a fish tank or just something that
> holds water? If
> its a tank and your not in a rush check the want ads
> every once in a
> while there are some good deals there I still use
> refridgerator
> liners for storage,also made storage tanks out of
> marine plywood.
> If its not for looks anything that holds water
> will work ive
> seen quite large fiberglass vats but they are quite
> expensive.
>
> Hank
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16916 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
how big do they get

--- hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote:

> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, cody adams
> <cornbread_05@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > whats a bull head
> >
>
> Hi:
> Its a catfish comes in yellow, black and brown
> and will eat
> anything that fits in its mouth and is tough as
> nails.
>
>
> PS
> Will get to several pounds in weight.
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below
> it
> > > when replying, thanks.
> > > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> > > ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all
> TEXT
> > > that is NOT important to
> > > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the
> original
> > > message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
> subject)"
> > > <-
> > > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> > > .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> > > matter.
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16917 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
thank you

--- sevenspringss@... wrote:

> Amway is one of the best know farmers supply
> markets, widespread throughout
> many of the more rural towns at least in the
> Northeast; this may be what he was
> talking about. Don't know if they have lobster
> tanks or not -- you'd have
> to contact them.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16918 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
You probably meant to say Agway. Amway is a totally different company.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of sevenspringss@...
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 5:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] info on aquariums

Amway is one of the best know farmers supply markets, widespread throughout
many of the more rural towns at least in the Northeast; this may be what he
was talking about. Don't know if they have lobster tanks or not -- you'd
have to contact them.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16919 From: Elisabeth Agnello Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: does anyone have koi fish
if anyone in this group have koi fish please email me at
iwishiwassaracalloway@... and tell me about waht you have to do
if you want to own this beauties of fish. tell if you can get them
under 1,000 dollars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16920 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: 150 gallon, what filters
I think you should use an Eheim filter. And I think you should give
your current tank away for free to a very good friend. =)
~Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of eandtuta1924
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 12:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] 150 gallon, what filters


I just bought a 150 gallon fresh water tank and I'm shopping around
for a filter/pump.
the measurment of the tank is 72"Lx20"Wx25.5"H
What is the best filter to use?
This is the one I'm looking at right now:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd==1&item=w62127087>
&rd==1&item=w62127087 thanks
magdalena









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16921 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
yeah thats what i think he mant but the do not sell it
up there i looked

--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

> You probably meant to say Agway. Amway is a totally
> different company.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of sevenspringss@...
> Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 5:36 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] info on aquariums
>
> Amway is one of the best know farmers supply
> markets, widespread throughout
> many of the more rural towns at least in the
> Northeast; this may be what he
> was talking about. Don't know if they have lobster
> tanks or not -- you'd
> have to contact them.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16922 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: does anyone have koi fish
Koi can, indeed, be beautiful fish. Young fish can be had quite
inexpensively, especially before their pattern has stabilized. Koi should
not be kept in an aquarium. They are pond fish, and can grow quite large.
I've seen older koi in the 30-36" range. I do know some people who will
house them indoors during the winter, depending on the severity of the local
climate, in structures they have built that mimic the ponds outdoors. This
means you need a relatively large, cool area available to do this. Like
their cousins, they are "dirty" fish, in that they generate a lot of waste
and ammonia, and this must be accounted for in the pond's or indoor
housing's planning and building to ensure you have enough water flow and
filtration.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Elisabeth Agnello
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 7:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] does anyone have koi fish

if anyone in this group have koi fish please email me at
iwishiwassaracalloway@... and tell me about waht you have to do if you
want to own this beauties of fish. tell if you can get them under 1,000
dollars








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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16923 From: hank voss Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, cody adams <cornbread_05@...>
wrote:
>
> what are fiber glass vabs and what do u mean by
> storage tanks, what is marine ply wood and
> refrigarator liner
>

Cody:
Fiberglass vats are square or retangular containers that can be
used for a varity of uses whatever use you want them for.The ones i
looked at held 200 gal. and up but were expensive.Storage vats are
used to store aged water or rain water.
Refridgerator liners were used by a lot of us old time
breeders to store water they are the inside shell of fridges the old
types were excellant for this purpose because they were enameled
inside. All you did was plug up the bolt holes and you had 40-60
vat.And they were freeyou cant beat that price.
Marine plywood is plywood with a stronger waterproof glue
made for very damp cond.s
Ive seen bullheads around 12 in., how big they can get i
would have to check up on that.









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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16924 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
Thank you Steve! Yes, that's exactly what I meant-- Agway. Just couldn't
think of the name of those farmers outlets at the moment. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16925 From: kristopher helsing Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: Bicher
how big is he.... ive had good luck with firemouths.... right now my 2 babys are in with baby firemouths and tigerbarbs.... the older ones i did have were in with 2 hujeta gars and 3 red jewel cichlids.... it was a good tank. only problem was that the gars liked to jump out and the rest of the fish didnt make the move.... i still havent pin pointed why... but nonethe less thats the advice i can give... good luck!

Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: I have a bicher that I've had to seperate out. He's currently in a 10 for
now while his new home is being prepared. (To good a fish to return,
already very friendly towards me even if not to my gouramis in my 60).

Was wondering what fish are safe with him and vice versa. Thanks in
advance!

-Steve




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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16926 From: cody adams Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: info on aquariums
wow i am not really trying to build nothing difficult
because i am not exactly tim the tool man taylor

--- hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote:

> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, cody adams
> <cornbread_05@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > what are fiber glass vabs and what do u mean by
> > storage tanks, what is marine ply wood and
> > refrigarator liner
> >
>
> Cody:
> Fiberglass vats are square or retangular
> containers that can be
> used for a varity of uses whatever use you want them
> for.The ones i
> looked at held 200 gal. and up but were
> expensive.Storage vats are
> used to store aged water or rain water.
> Refridgerator liners were used by a lot of us
> old time
> breeders to store water they are the inside shell of
> fridges the old
> types were excellant for this purpose because they
> were enameled
> inside. All you did was plug up the bolt holes and
> you had 40-60
> vat.And they were freeyou cant beat that price.
> Marine plywood is plywood with a stronger
> waterproof glue
> made for very damp cond.s
> Ive seen bullheads around 12 in., how big
> they can get i
> would have to check up on that.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16927 From: anne carrera Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: Bicher
A lot of choices depends on the species of the bichir and how agressive it is -Anne

Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: I have a bicher that I've had to seperate out. He's currently in a 10 for
now while his new home is being prepared. (To good a fish to return,
already very friendly towards me even if not to my gouramis in my 60).

Was wondering what fish are safe with him and vice versa. Thanks in
advance!

-Steve




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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16928 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: question about flea bombs
Ok so I guess I need to bomb the house.. I did research and found out that I
should do all the rooms cause the fleas will try and find the place that
isn't done AKA my room with all the tanks and then ill have the problem I am
trying to rid.. so I know I have heard about turning off the filter wrapping the
tank in plastic wrap and covering with towels.. how long can I leave the
fliter off in my tank... thanks Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16929 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
You have a tiger? Cool! My dad has always talked about getting a pet muskie.
The hybrids are really beautiful too--I think they have the best of both
species. How large is the fish and the tank? How many other fish? Is the gar
much bigger? I've seen my share of ferocious muskies and northern pikes, and
I can't imagine one "getting along" with another fish....especially anything
with northern pike in its blood. Those things will eat anything!
Emily

On 4/30/06, sevenspringss@... <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Yes, Bass (Micropterus) are related to Cichlids, being in the same Order
> (Percomorphi), even if somewhat distantly so. One problem with trying to
> keep
> them both together is their different temperature requirements. Then too,
> various states have different laws pertaining to keeping gamefish,
> especially
> since there may be minimum size limits. You can occassionally get around
> the
> temperature thing by keeping it at a happy medium enjoyed by both
> species. My
> Tiger Muskellunge gets along great with my Alligator Gar and my M.
> salmoides gets
> along fine with the Apistogrammas.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16930 From: paul Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: Black Hair Algie
thanks for the info mate....
ill give it a try.
Paul.

chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
spores might have come with the plants, palnted tanks
often do well in keeping algae controlled, competition
for nutrients and such...

had problems with blue grean algae recently and it was
suggested that i use peroxide to control it, worked
like a charm...

noticed hair algae in another tank, used the peroxide
again with success, no harm came to the fish or
plants...

suggestion was 1oz per 10 gallons, i used about half
that...

woody

--- paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote:

> Any ideas..? iv got this black hair type algie on my
> rocks/pots etc...
> This has only started since i started putting real
> plans in.
> Thanks.
> paul..
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16931 From: hank voss Date: 4/30/2006
Subject: Re: question about flea bombs
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
> Ok so I guess I need to bomb the house... so I know I have heard
about turning off the filter wrapping the
> tank in plastic wrap and covering with towels.. how long can I
leave the
> fliter off in my tank... thanks Shannon
>
> ========================
Hi:
Make sure the tanks are sealed air tight.If you have a canister
filter you can leave it running since its a closed system The safest
way is to remove everything on top of the tank and seal it with
plastic and tape.If your tank is not over crowded you can leave the
filter off for many days with no problems.Those bombs are quite
toxic to fish. Good luck/

Hank












> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16932 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bicher
Welp, lessee, In the tank he's in now, he has taken out some platies and
cherri barbs (no big since they were only there for my blue crayfish.) Odd
thing is is in the 60, he would go after my gouramies and leave the neon
tetras alone. He's about three and a half inches in length right now.

He never killed any of the gouramies, but did manage to injure a full grown
moonlight by grabbing it from the bottom. The moonlight has since fully
recovered (just some bruising for a bit where the bicher's mouth was, but
that has since gone away).

-Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16933 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Driftwood browned my water
I had some driftwood in my tank for quite some time...water was clear no
problems. I took it out because my fish became very territorial with
their hiding spaces and it became a highly aggressive tank. So now a
year later I put the wood back in and set it up more carefully with
regards to hiding spots. But now my water is brown. I didn't think the
wood would leak after being in the tank for so long but I was very
wrong.

My question is will this brown get darker...should I remove the woods or
if I don't mind the color is it safe to stay? It is rather ugly today,
much darker than it was yesterday.

Thank you much.... Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16934 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
If it is still leaching tannins (which it sounds like it is), yes, the water
will get darker. You may need to accept a certain amount of this as long as
you don't mind; it is safe. However, it will drop the pH into the acid range
which, depending upon what species of fish you have, is usually not actually
detrimental, but presents problems when you do water changes as the pH will then
be "bounced" (which is not good for the fish). Try soaking the driftwood in a
bucket or a utility sink in the laundry room for several weeks, changing out
the water every few days. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16935 From: Paolo Wilfred Payumo Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Black Hair Algie
Just place your tank to a space with more natural light. Though 180G is pretty much hard to move.

cheers

paul whitby <paul633uk@...> wrote:
Hello all.
Over the past few weeks iv been putting plants into my 180G tank..but
iv found some black "Hairs" growing on my pots/ rocks etc.!..Iv not
seen this before until i started putting Real plants in.!

Is this Black Hair ok.??
Thakns
Paul.
OH ps.. i feed my plants ever 2 weeks...lights are on 10hours a
day.2x30 watt aqua glow..water change 10% per week with RO Water.





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16936 From: Paolo Wilfred Payumo Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: does anyone have koi fish
This type of fish can't be placed on a tank. You have to purchased (or have one build) a pond. You can also mixed it with different goldfish types (even slower breeds). Just keep an eye when feeding them.

cheers.

Elisabeth Agnello <iwishiwassaracalloway@...> wrote:
if anyone in this group have koi fish please email me at
iwishiwassaracalloway@... and tell me about waht you have to do
if you want to own this beauties of fish. tell if you can get them
under 1,000 dollars








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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16937 From: Trevor Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: does anyone have koi fish
If you have a big enough tank, you could keep them in it. :D A pond is
the usual place to raise them, though. I have 2 juvenile koi in my
pond that cost me about $3 each, so you can definitely get them for
under $1,000. :D

- Trevor

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Paolo Wilfred Payumo
<payumo_pwu@...> wrote:
>
> This type of fish can't be placed on a tank. You have to purchased
(or have one build) a pond. You can also mixed it with different
goldfish types (even slower breeds). Just keep an eye when feeding them.
>
> cheers.
>
> Elisabeth Agnello <iwishiwassaracalloway@...> wrote:
> if anyone in this group have koi fish please email me at
> iwishiwassaracalloway@... and tell me about waht you have to do
> if you want to own this beauties of fish. tell if you can get them
> under 1,000 dollars
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Marine biologist Biology Bucharest romania San
francisco bay area United kingdom South africa
>
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>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
>
> ---------------------------------
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16938 From: Trevor Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: 150 gallon, what filters
I had a 150 gallon tank with similar fish for several years. I just
used a single Rena Filstar XP3 canister filter, which you can get for
around $95 - $99 at stores like http://drsfostersmith.com and
http://www.bigalsonline.com

I'm still using the same filter on my 80 gallon tank (which replaced
the 150 gallon when it decided to spring a leak and cause a flood) now.

- Trevor

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, magdalena jones <eandtuta1924@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi and thanks for your reply! I love this group.
>
> I have a pair of blood parrots and 5 other south american cichlids
in a 55 gallon now and I'm upgrading to the bigger tank so I can let
them grow and add more fish.
> I just have hanging on the back filters now. I haven't found
hanging filters strong enough for that large tank though, but I'm
gonna look for those Aquaclear 500's you talked about.
>
> The filter on Ebay is stil there, do you that's a good one?
>
> thanks again for your quick respons
>
> Magdalena
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16939 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Hi Ray,
I took the wood out. I'm not willing to deal with pH problems right
now.
I figured out where I went wrong. When I acquired this tank there was
driftwood in it already, had been for years. As I was taking the
supplies that went with it, I snagged a piece of wood that had not been
in there...so I am assuming that this piece is my tannin leaker. I just
wish I knew which piece it was so I could add the other two. I have a
guess but of course can't be sure. So they are now all 3 soaking in a
huge bucket in the middle of my kitchen.
Is there any way to tell which one is oozing the tannins? I guess I
could seperate each and see which water turns, but I don't have 3
buckets that size. Is there another way to tell?
Thanks,
Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sevenspringss@...
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 11:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Driftwood browned my water


If it is still leaching tannins (which it sounds like it is), yes, the
water
will get darker. You may need to accept a certain amount of this as long
as
you don't mind; it is safe. However, it will drop the pH into the acid
range
which, depending upon what species of fish you have, is usually not
actually
detrimental, but presents problems when you do water changes as the pH
will then
be "bounced" (which is not good for the fish). Try soaking the
driftwood in a
bucket or a utility sink in the laundry room for several weeks, changing
out
the water every few days. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16940 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Well, I can give you one suggestion, leave one in the tank, one in the
bucket and put one in ur bathtub. Surely a soaking overnite will reveal the
culprit.

Rob


At 03:25 PM 5/1/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Ray,
>I took the wood out. I'm not willing to deal with pH problems right
>now.
>I figured out where I went wrong. When I acquired this tank there was
>driftwood in it already, had been for years. As I was taking the
>supplies that went with it, I snagged a piece of wood that had not been
>in there...so I am assuming that this piece is my tannin leaker. I just
>wish I knew which piece it was so I could add the other two. I have a
>guess but of course can't be sure. So they are now all 3 soaking in a
>huge bucket in the middle of my kitchen.
>Is there any way to tell which one is oozing the tannins? I guess I
>could seperate each and see which water turns, but I don't have 3
>buckets that size. Is there another way to tell?
>Thanks,
>Leslie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16941 From: hank voss Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> I took the wood out. I'm not willing to deal with pH problems
right
> now.
> I figured out where I went wrong. When I acquired this tank there
was
> driftwood in it already, had been for years. As I was taking the
> supplies that went with it, I snagged a piece of wood that had not
been
> in there...so I am assuming that this piece is my tannin leaker.
I just
> wish I knew which piece it was so I could add the other two. I
have a
> guess but of course can't be sure.

==============================

You will have to one at a time to find out which one it is.Hot
water speeds up the leaching process.

Hank







>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
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important
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> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16942 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Hank...
If I get a big pot of boiling water and submerge the wood, how long
would it take for the water to brown if in fact the right wood is in
there?
L

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 3:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Driftwood browned my water


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> I took the wood out. I'm not willing to deal with pH problems
right
> now.
> I figured out where I went wrong. When I acquired this tank there
was
> driftwood in it already, had been for years. As I was taking the
> supplies that went with it, I snagged a piece of wood that had not
been
> in there...so I am assuming that this piece is my tannin leaker.
I just
> wish I knew which piece it was so I could add the other two. I
have a
> guess but of course can't be sure.

==============================

You will have to one at a time to find out which one it is.Hot
water speeds up the leaching process.

Hank







>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16943 From: hank voss Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> I took the wood out. I'm not willing to deal with pH problems
right
> now.
> I figured out where I went wrong. When I acquired this tank there
was
> driftwood in it already, had been for years. As I was taking the
> supplies that went with it, I snagged a piece of wood that had not
been
> in there...so I am assuming that this piece is my tannin leaker.
I just
> wish I knew which piece it was so I could add the other two. I
have a
> guess but of course can't be sure.

==============================

You will have to one at a time to find out which one it is.Hot
water speeds up the leaching process.

Hank







>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Marine
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16944 From: magdalena jones Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: 150 gallon, what filters
thanks Trevor, I'll look in to those filter!

Trevor <trevor@...> wrote: I had a 150 gallon tank with similar fish for several years. I just
used a single Rena Filstar XP3 canister filter, which you can get for
around $95 - $99 at stores like http://drsfostersmith.com and
http://www.bigalsonline.com

I'm still using the same filter on my 80 gallon tank (which replaced
the 150 gallon when it decided to spring a leak and cause a flood) now.

- Trevor

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, magdalena jones <eandtuta1924@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi and thanks for your reply! I love this group.
>
> I have a pair of blood parrots and 5 other south american cichlids
in a 55 gallon now and I'm upgrading to the bigger tank so I can let
them grow and add more fish.
> I just have hanging on the back filters now. I haven't found
hanging filters strong enough for that large tank though, but I'm
gonna look for those Aquaclear 500's you talked about.
>
> The filter on Ebay is stil there, do you that's a good one?
>
> thanks again for your quick respons
>
> Magdalena
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16945 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
I'm actually not asking how long as in a time but rather would that work
at all? Duh....Sorry.
Lots going on today...my mind is way too spread out!
Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Driftwood browned my water


Hank...
If I get a big pot of boiling water and submerge the wood, how long
would it take for the water to brown if in fact the right wood is in
there?
L




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16946 From: wendie Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
You need to soak it in clean water for a couple of weeks. Change the water
daily until it remains clear.
Wendie
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Driftwood browned my water


Hank...
If I get a big pot of boiling water and submerge the wood, how long
would it take for the water to brown if in fact the right wood is in
there?
L

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 3:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Driftwood browned my water


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> I took the wood out. I'm not willing to deal with pH problems
right
> now.
> I figured out where I went wrong. When I acquired this tank there
was
> driftwood in it already, had been for years. As I was taking the
> supplies that went with it, I snagged a piece of wood that had not
been
> in there...so I am assuming that this piece is my tannin leaker.
I just
> wish I knew which piece it was so I could add the other two. I
have a
> guess but of course can't be sure.

==============================

You will have to one at a time to find out which one it is.Hot
water speeds up the leaching process.

Hank







>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16947 From: hank voss Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I'm actually not asking how long as in a time but rather would
that work
> at all? Duh....Sorry.
> Lots going on today...my mind is way too spread out!
> Leslie
====================================

Leslie:
Boiling water will speed up the leaching process even faster

Hank

>
>
> Hank...
> If I get a big pot of boiling water and submerge the wood, how long
> would it take for the water to brown if in fact the right wood is
in
> there?
> L
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16948 From: wendie Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
Boiling will take care of any bacteria or fungus in the wood. Plain soaking
for a couple of weeks
will cut down on the staining of the water. Some wood will continue to
stain the water regardless of
what you do. What type of wood is it?
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Driftwood browned my water


I'm actually not asking how long as in a time but rather would that work
at all? Duh....Sorry.
Lots going on today...my mind is way too spread out!
Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Driftwood browned my water


Hank...
If I get a big pot of boiling water and submerge the wood, how long
would it take for the water to brown if in fact the right wood is in
there?
L




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16949 From: muskie4817 Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Betta question
I currently own a 45 gallon tank with a few swordtails (1 male and 2
female plus a couple little ones), 2 dwarf male gouramis, 3 australian
rainbows and 2 corys and a pleco. I was thinking of getting a male
Betta but wanted to make sure it would be ok with this grouping.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16950 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/1/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
If the leaching of tannins is not very rapid, you can probably stay ahead of
the curve by doing more frequent water changes.

The tendency for any tank is to turn acidic as time goes on. Water changes
is only one way of maintaining pH.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Driftwood browned my water

Hi Ray,
I took the wood out. I'm not willing to deal with pH problems right now.
I figured out where I went wrong. When I acquired this tank there was
driftwood in it already, had been for years. As I was taking the supplies
that went with it, I snagged a piece of wood that had not been in there...so
I am assuming that this piece is my tannin leaker. I just wish I knew which
piece it was so I could add the other two. I have a guess but of course
can't be sure. So they are now all 3 soaking in a huge bucket in the middle
of my kitchen.
Is there any way to tell which one is oozing the tannins? I guess I could
seperate each and see which water turns, but I don't have 3 buckets that
size. Is there another way to tell?
Thanks,
Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sevenspringss@...
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 11:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Driftwood browned my water


If it is still leaching tannins (which it sounds like it is), yes, the water
will get darker. You may need to accept a certain amount of this as long as
you don't mind; it is safe. However, it will drop the pH into the acid
range which, depending upon what species of fish you have, is usually not
actually detrimental, but presents problems when you do water changes as the
pH will then be "bounced" (which is not good for the fish). Try soaking the
driftwood in a bucket or a utility sink in the laundry room for several
weeks, changing out the water every few days. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16951 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
If you want to dry them for a day, the one with the tannins should be much
darker in color (when not wet).


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16952 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Driftwood browned my water
That's if they're all the same type of wood.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16953 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Lowest temperature for livebearer fry: Utricularia as a fry hiding
Hello, I am still quite enchanted with my Utricularia. A specialist
compared it with some pictures (which told nothing to me, they were
all very similar) and then she came to the veredict: It may be

Utricularia foliosa.

Yes, I hope my Xiphophorus fry won´t get eaten (they are still larger
than guppy fry).

The guppy fry are in another tank.

But what would be the lowest tolerable temperature for livebearer fry
(those mentioned above)?


best wishes, Thomas, Mundo Novo, Brazil.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Thomas, Yes, there have been reports documented to the effect that
> Bladderwort can trap fish fry, especially the smaller egglayer
fry. I
> don't believe any of the 20 or so species of Utricularia are
capable of
> trapping most larger livebearer fry, especially the more popular
(in
> the trade) U. minor, which can only trap smaller fry of Betta size,
but
> some of the species growing larger utricles (catching bladders) may
be
> able to trap guppy fry. These may include U.neottiodes, U.
stellaris
> and U. flexuosa, all found in your area (Brazil).
Ray
> \
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16954 From: sevenspringss@wmconnect.com Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Lowest temperature for livebearer fry: Utricularia as a fry...
Unless you are talking about wild specimens, I would not try to keep them
below 72o F. (22o C); 70o F an absolute minimum. Many Xiphopherus are found in
mountain streams, X.helleri (Swordtail) being one of them, and can tolerate 64o
C (18o C). X. maculatus (Platy) is found in lowland streams -- 68o F being
its low temperature limit. Wild Guppies can tolerate 60o F (15.5 o C). Tank
raised and developed strains of all these fish are less tolerant of these low
extremes and to attempt to try to keep them in these extreme conditions is
only inviting disaster. Ray


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16955 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Lowest temperature for livebearer fry: Utricularia as a fry...
OK, I should install a heater. I think these nights water
temperatures may go down to 14 degrees Celsius or so (early in the
morning). During the day it heats up to 23 degrees Celsius or so. So
for, no disaster has happened but I´ll take care, installing a heater.

Thanks!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, sevenspringss@... wrote:
>
> Unless you are talking about wild specimens, I would not try to
keep them
> below 72o F. (22o C); 70o F an absolute minimum. Many Xiphopherus
are found in
> mountain streams, X.helleri (Swordtail) being one of them, and can
tolerate 64o
> C (18o C). X. maculatus (Platy) is found in lowland streams --
68o F being
> its low temperature limit. Wild Guppies can tolerate 60o F (15.5 o
C). Tank
> raised and developed strains of all these fish are less tolerant of
these low
> extremes and to attempt to try to keep them in these extreme
conditions is
> only inviting disaster. Ray
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16956 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Artificial selection in Aquarium Habitats
Hello,

Several of the postings and their answers already showed to me, the
40 years old biologist, who had an aquarium when he was a 14 to 19
years old teenager, several interesting topics from the point of view
of biological science.

What I would like to highlight and to debate is the question
of "ARTIFICIAL SELECTION":

Many guys start their aquarium as "naturalists", but the more I
ponder about this hobby, the more I am getting a "artificialist".

Several examples of artificial selection in species formerly from the
wild, now in the aquarium, were already mentioned:

Many aquarium fish specimen eat fish food flakes right from the first
day, whereas individuals caught in the wild do not accept flakes so
readily.

Some species that occur in the wild in extreme water conditions, may
get customized to normal, "hard" water (Wild guppies for instance are
said to occur in very "soft", and slightly "acid" natural systems,
whereas under aquarium conditions, they may reproduce also in "hard",
slightly "alcaline" water)

As it has been mentioned in the previous message, even the range of
prefered temperatures is object of artificial selection, in the sense
that many aquarium livebearers are more sensitive to cold
temperatures than native livebearers are.

"Artificial selection" is a major theme in biology, which helps to
highlight, for instance, Fisher´s "Fundamental theoreme of natural
selection".

Hence, I wonder, has science already crossed this borderline to
aquarium fish lovers, and are there any studies on "Artificial
selection" with aquarium fish strains?

Thanks very much for hints on this,

best wishes, Thomas - Mundo Novo, MS, Brazil.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16957 From: J29MM@aOL.COM Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Wanted: killifish
Anyone have any killifish for sale they would be willing to ship to
Colorado?




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16958 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Wanted: killifish
Check with J.C. right now he is in the process of getting ready to move but you can email him at hillbillynursery@... Should be getting some from him this week and I live out here in OR.
Shannon

J29MM@... wrote:


Anyone have any killifish for sale they would be willing to ship to
Colorado?




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 16959 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/2/2006
Subject: Re: Artificial selection in Aquarium Habitats
I don't know of any studies, as such, concerning "artificial selection" in
aquarium fish. However, this type of thing also happens in the plant
world--many of our garden plants are hybrids of one sort or another, much of
the fruit and vegetables we eat are hybrids and selectively bred for yield,
survivability of transport, etc. Some of it is well understood--limited
number of genes governing limited traits, and some not so well
understood--look at iris hybridizing--with multiple genes governing a trait,
genes affecting more than one trait, etc.

One of the big problems, not much talked about here or anywhere, is the lack
of assurance that one has when purchasing fish that they are getting a
pure-bred fish and not one that has the ancestry of another species in its
past. This is one of the reasons why wild caught fish are highly prized,
especially among advanced hobbyists.

In your career as a biologist, you probably have better and more access to
the journals than I, an ordinary hobbyist with a different career path, do.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Thomas Schlemmermeyer
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 6:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Artificial selection in Aquarium Habitats

Hello,

Several of the postings and their answers already showed to me, the
40 years old biologist, who had an aquarium when he was a 14 to 19
years old teenager, several interesting topics from the point of view
of biological science.

What I would like to highlight and to debate is the question
of "ARTIFICIAL SELECTION":

Many guys start their aquarium as "naturalists", but the more I
ponder about this hobby, the more I am getting a "artificialist".

Several examples of artificial selection in species formerly from the
wild, now in the aquarium, were already mentioned:

Many aquarium fish specimen eat fish food flakes right from the first
day, whereas individuals caught in the wild do not accept flakes so
readily.

Some species that occur in the wild in extreme water conditions, may
get customized to normal, "hard" water (Wild guppies for instance are
said to occur in very "soft", and slightly "acid" natural systems,
whereas under aquarium conditions, they may reproduce also in "hard",
slightly "alcaline" water)

As it has been mentioned in the previous message, even the range of
prefered temperatures is object of artificial selection, in the sense
that many aquarium livebearers are more sensitive to cold
temperatures than native livebearers are.

"Artificial selection" is a major theme in biology, which helps to
highlight, for instance, Fisher´s "Fundamental theoreme of natural
selection".

Hence, I wonder, has science already crossed this borderline to
aquarium fish lovers, and are there any studies on "Artificial
selection" with aquarium fish strains?

Thanks very much for hints on this,

best wishes, Thomas - Mundo Novo, MS, Brazil.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16960 From: blackbimmer1972 Date: 5/3/2006
Subject: Stocking Ideas for 44 Gal Tank
Hey folks, I'm new to the group and excited about getting started with
freshwater fishkeeping. I'm in the process of buying a 44 gallon
pentagonal tank. This'll be my first aquarium, and I'd really
appreciate some ideas about what kinds of fish to stock community-wise.

Here are my parameters so far. I think I'd enjoy a male betta as kind
of a "centerpiece fish," but is that really suitable for a community
environment? Also, I think I'd like a few bigger fish as opposed to a
lot of smaller fish. Finally of course, I'd like the whole look to be
as pretty and colorful as possible. Not sure if I'll do any live
plants at this point. With that in mind, I'd appreciate any and all
suggestions you may be able to offer. Thanks in
advance.

- Chris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16961 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/3/2006
Subject: Re: Stocking Ideas for 44 Gal Tank
Chris,

Welcome to the list.

I'd say that the first thing you should do, after reading this, is to go out
and get yourself a good book. I'd recommend the Baensch Aquarium Atlas,
Volume 1. This book will go through setting up a tank and give you some
information on aspects of keeping fish. It has a decent plant
section--should you decide to go that way, and it has fairly accurate fish
descriptions along with their behaviors.

Go through the fish section, once you have read the first part of the book
about setting up the tank, and check out the fish. Make a note of those
you've seen in the local fish stores, because you'll want to pay particular
attention to those fish in the book. Then you can read about those you have
an interest and see if they would make a good fit. You'll want to pay
attention to temperature ranges, and get fish that have overlapping ranges.
Pay attention to pH requirements, and look at fish within the same pH range.


You'll probably come up with more than one list this way. Then go through
the lists on their own and weed them down to fish you are truly interested
in keeping. Once you have done this pick a list you like--then you'll
probably have to cut it in have, at lest, so the fish will fit in your tank
<g>. You'll probably want to stay away from some of those fish that are
considered to be "beginner" fish as they are not really for beginners. While
they may survive, to have them in tip top shape will take more knowledge
and work than you have or are prepared to give, Mollies are a good example
here. Also watch for fish that are labeled aggressive. They may only be
aggressive in certain situations, or they could be just outright terrors.
There are also fish that are not normally labeled as being aggressive, but
they are. Gouramis come to mind here.

Don't be afraid to ask questions here and elsewhere. You'll find that
opinions and experiences vary.

It is good that you are getting a mid-sized tank to start out. That tank
will give you some room for error, and, believe me, you'll have some error.
But people are here that can help.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of blackbimmer1972
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 1:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Stocking Ideas for 44 Gal Tank

Hey folks, I'm new to the group and excited about getting started with
freshwater fishkeeping. I'm in the process of buying a 44 gallon
pentagonal tank. This'll be my first aquarium, and I'd really
appreciate some ideas about what kinds of fish to stock community-wise.

Here are my parameters so far. I think I'd enjoy a male betta as kind
of a "centerpiece fish," but is that really suitable for a community
environment? Also, I think I'd like a few bigger fish as opposed to a
lot of smaller fish. Finally of course, I'd like the whole look to be
as pretty and colorful as possible. Not sure if I'll do any live
plants at this point. With that in mind, I'd appreciate any and all
suggestions you may be able to offer. Thanks in
advance.

- Chris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16962 From: steve Date: 5/4/2006
Subject: microbubbles in tank
anyone know what to do about microbubbles in my tank
i have a refugium setup under my 90 gallon tank with a protein skimmer
in the refugium with 2 pumps 1 for the skimmer and 1 for return and on
the skimmer pump i have 1/4 inch tube for the venturi off 1 of the 3
inputs to the pump i got the full setup from catalina aquariums
sump/refugium setup that is here is the site to see the set up if
anyone can help me out thanks

http://www.catalinaaquarium.com/product_info.php?
cPath=90&products_id=1315

thanks again

steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16963 From: dragon6435@aol.com Date: 5/5/2006
Subject: St. Louis members-Fish for sale
Anybody here in St. Louis that might be interested in a few discus? I'll be moving in about a month and I'm trying to pare back a little. I have a pair I want to keep but the rest could use some new homes. I also have quite a few livebearers (sword and platy varietals) too, if interested. Darned things breed better than rabbits. You can send off list if you're interested. I'm in the downtown area.

Linda



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16964 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/6/2006
Subject: Eggs are covered in fungus!
My blood parrots again laid eggs all over a rock. I didn't take it out
this time since I know they are infertile. But now two days later they
are white clumps of fuzz and I KNOW that can hurt them...what do I do?
I can't/don't want to treat the whole tank for fungus but I suppose I
will if I must.
PLEASE let me know quickly.
Thanks!
Leslie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16965 From: hank voss Date: 5/7/2006
Subject: Re: Eggs are covered in fungus!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> My blood parrots again laid eggs all over a rock. I didn't take
it out
> this time since I know they are infertile. But now two days later
they
> are white clumps of fuzz and I KNOW that can hurt them...what do I
do?
=====================================
Leslie:
The eggs have fungused and will dissapear eventually being
consumed by the fungus,you dont have to worry its not transferable
to the fish just unsightly.
Hank




>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16966 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/7/2006
Subject: Re: Eggs are covered in fungus!
That is good to know. Thank you. =)
Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2006 8:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Eggs are covered in fungus!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> My blood parrots again laid eggs all over a rock. I didn't take
it out
> this time since I know they are infertile. But now two days later
they
> are white clumps of fuzz and I KNOW that can hurt them...what do I
do?
=====================================
Leslie:
The eggs have fungused and will dissapear eventually being
consumed by the fungus,you dont have to worry its not transferable
to the fish just unsightly.
Hank




>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16967 From: K Date: 5/8/2006
Subject: Koi problem???
After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added three Koi.
Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and then to
very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with Koi, is
it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16968 From: Chris Date: 5/8/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
How large is the tank, how many koi, how soon did it get cloudy and
what type of filtration have you got?

Chris.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, K <kbeck4@...> wrote:
>
> After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added three
Koi.
> Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and
then to
> very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with
Koi, is
> it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
> their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16969 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/8/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
In addition to what Chris asks (and I know that you said three koi), what
size are they? What did you do to start the nitrogen cycle in that tank,
other than letting it sit?

It is not unusual for a new tank to get cloudy within several weeks of being
started and adding fish. Once you get past this point, you should be OK
until the fish grow too large for the tank, which will happen fairly quickly
with koi, if they are properly maintained. Koi will grow very large, which
is why they are kept in ponds rather than tanks.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of K
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???

After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added three Koi.
Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and then to
very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with Koi, is
it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16970 From: K Date: 5/8/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
29/30 gallon tank, 3, I think it was within a day or two (maybe three at
most), just a regular filter for a tank.


Chris wrote:
> How large is the tank, how many koi, how soon did it get cloudy and
> what type of filtration have you got?
>
> Chris.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, K <kbeck4@...> wrote:
> >
> > After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added three
> Koi.
> > Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and
> then to
> > very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with
> Koi, is
> > it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
> > their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
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> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Marine+biologist&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=GsrYYajCSz1j-rLVbGfzJQ>
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>
> San francisco bay area
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=San+francisco+bay+area&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=kxKEEDwyByHRbNnZILE_dQ>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16971 From: K Date: 5/8/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Like I mention my aunt and uncle have koi (three also) and they have had
them in a tank (smaller than mine) for years and they haven't really
grown that much. They tend to put them in a pond when the weather gets
warm, which I cannot do.

I do not think I have ever did a nitrogen cycle ever... The tank was set
up for a few days before I added the fish. They are medium size I guess,
do not ask me what they are in inches, because I do not know.



Steve Szabo wrote:
> In addition to what Chris asks (and I know that you said three koi), what
> size are they? What did you do to start the nitrogen cycle in that tank,
> other than letting it sit?
>
> It is not unusual for a new tank to get cloudy within several weeks of
> being
> started and adding fish. Once you get past this point, you should be OK
> until the fish grow too large for the tank, which will happen fairly
> quickly
> with koi, if they are properly maintained. Koi will grow very large, which
> is why they are kept in ponds rather than tanks.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of K
> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:02 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
>
> After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added three Koi.
> Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and then to
> very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with Koi, is
> it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
> their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Marine biologist
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Marine+biologist&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=GsrYYajCSz1j-rLVbGfzJQ>
> Biology
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> Bucharest romania
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>
> San francisco bay area
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> United kingdom
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=United+kingdom&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=HPM_nDJbj1M7rAx3MGd2cg>
> South africa
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=South+africa&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=MBXb0fWSCz1Yq1V6P7BEkw>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> * Visit your group "AquaticLife
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>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16972 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
A medium koi, to me, would be on about 12-15" long. I am thinking that yours
are not quite that large.

You are experiencing a bacterial bloom now. Koi are "dirty" fish, producing
a lot of ammonia and solid wastes. All of a sudden, you have added a heavy
load to your tank. Bacteria are now multiplying like crazy to take care of
it. If you were to measure your ammonia, you'll probably find it to be
fairly high right now. It takes 6-8 weeks to cycle a tank. If you search the
archives, you will find a lot of information hear about the nitrogen cycle.

Your aunt and uncle's fish are not showing typical koi growth. This could be
due to several factors, but they are likely not very happy fish.

You might wish to do a search on koi to gather more information. My first
hit on Google was this site --http://www.vcnet.com/koi_net/ -- Koi.net. It
is a start.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of K
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 11:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???

Like I mention my aunt and uncle have koi (three also) and they have had
them in a tank (smaller than mine) for years and they haven't really
grown that much. They tend to put them in a pond when the weather gets
warm, which I cannot do.

I do not think I have ever did a nitrogen cycle ever... The tank was set
up for a few days before I added the fish. They are medium size I guess,
do not ask me what they are in inches, because I do not know.



Steve Szabo wrote:
> In addition to what Chris asks (and I know that you said three koi), what
> size are they? What did you do to start the nitrogen cycle in that tank,
> other than letting it sit?
>
> It is not unusual for a new tank to get cloudy within several weeks of
> being
> started and adding fish. Once you get past this point, you should be OK
> until the fish grow too large for the tank, which will happen fairly
> quickly
> with koi, if they are properly maintained. Koi will grow very large, which
> is why they are kept in ponds rather than tanks.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of K
> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:02 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
>
> After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added three Koi.
> Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and then to
> very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with Koi, is
> it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
> their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16973 From: K Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Then probably small to very small. I just eyed them with a ruler and
they look to be around 2 to 3 inches.

I have added fish earlier than this before and had no problem, but like
you just mention they are dirty fish... I did a water test just last
night and everything is normal from what the test said.

I haven't seen them lately, but the last time I saw my aunt and uncle
koi they were quite happy. I am not sure what size they were when they
put them in the tank...

Steve Szabo wrote:
> A medium koi, to me, would be on about 12-15" long. I am thinking that
> yours
> are not quite that large.
>
> You are experiencing a bacterial bloom now. Koi are "dirty" fish,
> producing
> a lot of ammonia and solid wastes. All of a sudden, you have added a heavy
> load to your tank. Bacteria are now multiplying like crazy to take care of
> it. If you were to measure your ammonia, you'll probably find it to be
> fairly high right now. It takes 6-8 weeks to cycle a tank. If you
> search the
> archives, you will find a lot of information hear about the nitrogen
> cycle.
>
> Your aunt and uncle's fish are not showing typical koi growth. This
> could be
> due to several factors, but they are likely not very happy fish.
>
> You might wish to do a search on koi to gather more information. My first
> hit on Google was this site --http://www.vcnet.com/koi_net/ -- Koi.net. It
> is a start.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of K
> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 11:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
>
> Like I mention my aunt and uncle have koi (three also) and they have had
> them in a tank (smaller than mine) for years and they haven't really
> grown that much. They tend to put them in a pond when the weather gets
> warm, which I cannot do.
>
> I do not think I have ever did a nitrogen cycle ever... The tank was set
> up for a few days before I added the fish. They are medium size I guess,
> do not ask me what they are in inches, because I do not know.
>
>
>
> Steve Szabo wrote:
> > In addition to what Chris asks (and I know that you said three koi),
> what
> > size are they? What did you do to start the nitrogen cycle in that tank,
> > other than letting it sit?
> >
> > It is not unusual for a new tank to get cloudy within several weeks of
> > being
> > started and adding fish. Once you get past this point, you should be OK
> > until the fish grow too large for the tank, which will happen fairly
> > quickly
> > with koi, if they are properly maintained. Koi will grow very large,
> which
> > is why they are kept in ponds rather than tanks.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of K
> > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:02 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
> >
> > After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added three Koi.
> > Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and then to
> > very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with Koi, is
> > it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
> > their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Marine biologist
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Marine+biologist&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=GsrYYajCSz1j-rLVbGfzJQ>
> Biology
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Biology&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=kCXM3ecd_hIhYxEUWyOFHw>
> Bucharest romania
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Bucharest+romania&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=vmb2ug9CWB9kL66YwGMKxw>
>
> San francisco bay area
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=San+francisco+bay+area&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=kxKEEDwyByHRbNnZILE_dQ>
> United kingdom
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=United+kingdom&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=HPM_nDJbj1M7rAx3MGd2cg>
> South africa
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=South+africa&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=MBXb0fWSCz1Yq1V6P7BEkw>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> * Visit your group "AquaticLife
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife>" on the web.
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16974 From: K Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
Last night I got a new filter, because we didn't think the other filter
was working right. The water is clearing up. I may do a water change
later today. Thanx Chris and Steve for the help.


Quick questions, how often do you need to change the water with Koi. I
have had other fish before and I changed the water every two to four
weeks (mostly 4 weeks)? How hard are they to take care of? Because I am
going to be leaving them with someone for a few months and want to make
sure they will be ok.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16975 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
No test gives "normal" as a result. Other than litmus paper, a number is
given. Those numbers are important. When you post to this list, or any other
list, results from a test, you should give those numbers along with the test
you have done. That way, those who are reading can give you advice,
especially if there are a series of numbers from the same test taken at
different times. The numbers can establish a trend, good or bad, that can
then be addresses.

A well cared for koi will reach in excess of 36". There are very few tanks
available for fish of that size. If you can get back issues of "Aquarium
Fish Magazine", look for issues with the columns and articles by Steve
Meyer. That should give you a pretty good education about koi.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of K
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 10:03 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???

Then probably small to very small. I just eyed them with a ruler and
they look to be around 2 to 3 inches.

I have added fish earlier than this before and had no problem, but like
you just mention they are dirty fish... I did a water test just last
night and everything is normal from what the test said.

I haven't seen them lately, but the last time I saw my aunt and uncle
koi they were quite happy. I am not sure what size they were when they
put them in the tank...

Steve Szabo wrote:
> A medium koi, to me, would be on about 12-15" long. I am thinking that
> yours
> are not quite that large.
>
> You are experiencing a bacterial bloom now. Koi are "dirty" fish,
> producing
> a lot of ammonia and solid wastes. All of a sudden, you have added a heavy
> load to your tank. Bacteria are now multiplying like crazy to take care of
> it. If you were to measure your ammonia, you'll probably find it to be
> fairly high right now. It takes 6-8 weeks to cycle a tank. If you
> search the
> archives, you will find a lot of information hear about the nitrogen
> cycle.
>
> Your aunt and uncle's fish are not showing typical koi growth. This
> could be
> due to several factors, but they are likely not very happy fish.
>
> You might wish to do a search on koi to gather more information. My first
> hit on Google was this site --http://www.vcnet.com/koi_net/ -- Koi.net. It
> is a start.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of K
> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 11:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
>
> Like I mention my aunt and uncle have koi (three also) and they have had
> them in a tank (smaller than mine) for years and they haven't really
> grown that much. They tend to put them in a pond when the weather gets
> warm, which I cannot do.
>
> I do not think I have ever did a nitrogen cycle ever... The tank was set
> up for a few days before I added the fish. They are medium size I guess,
> do not ask me what they are in inches, because I do not know.
>
>
>
> Steve Szabo wrote:
> > In addition to what Chris asks (and I know that you said three koi),
> what
> > size are they? What did you do to start the nitrogen cycle in that tank,
> > other than letting it sit?
> >
> > It is not unusual for a new tank to get cloudy within several weeks of
> > being
> > started and adding fish. Once you get past this point, you should be OK
> > until the fish grow too large for the tank, which will happen fairly
> > quickly
> > with koi, if they are properly maintained. Koi will grow very large,
> which
> > is why they are kept in ponds rather than tanks.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of K
> > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:02 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
> >
> > After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added three Koi.
> > Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and then to
> > very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with Koi, is
> > it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
> > their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16976 From: K Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
I wasn't saying the actual test said normal. I was saying the reading
the tests gave were normal. It is a water stick test.

I do not have the money to go out and get certain test or equipment, nor
do I have the space. I live in an apartment, I am sure they would not be
happy with setting up a pond on a deck. If I was on a ground floor with
access to the outdoors, they may think/say something else. Even though I
wouldn't want to put the fish outdoors at an apartment, who knows what
they put in the grass and/or plants. Also, more of a chance probably of
someone stealing the fish or doing something to them.

If the fish get too big for the tank, I will deal with that when it
comes. Who knows maybe I will have a house then, which would be nice.


Steve Szabo wrote:
> No test gives "normal" as a result. Other than litmus paper, a number is
> given. Those numbers are important. When you post to this list, or any
> other
> list, results from a test, you should give those numbers along with
> the test
> you have done. That way, those who are reading can give you advice,
> especially if there are a series of numbers from the same test taken at
> different times. The numbers can establish a trend, good or bad, that can
> then be addresses.
>
> A well cared for koi will reach in excess of 36". There are very few tanks
> available for fish of that size. If you can get back issues of "Aquarium
> Fish Magazine", look for issues with the columns and articles by Steve
> Meyer. That should give you a pretty good education about koi.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of K
> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 10:03 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
>
> Then probably small to very small. I just eyed them with a ruler and
> they look to be around 2 to 3 inches.
>
> I have added fish earlier than this before and had no problem, but like
> you just mention they are dirty fish... I did a water test just last
> night and everything is normal from what the test said.
>
> I haven't seen them lately, but the last time I saw my aunt and uncle
> koi they were quite happy. I am not sure what size they were when they
> put them in the tank...
>
> Steve Szabo wrote:
> > A medium koi, to me, would be on about 12-15" long. I am thinking that
> > yours
> > are not quite that large.
> >
> > You are experiencing a bacterial bloom now. Koi are "dirty" fish,
> > producing
> > a lot of ammonia and solid wastes. All of a sudden, you have added a
> heavy
> > load to your tank. Bacteria are now multiplying like crazy to take
> care of
> > it. If you were to measure your ammonia, you'll probably find it to be
> > fairly high right now. It takes 6-8 weeks to cycle a tank. If you
> > search the
> > archives, you will find a lot of information hear about the nitrogen
> > cycle.
> >
> > Your aunt and uncle's fish are not showing typical koi growth. This
> > could be
> > due to several factors, but they are likely not very happy fish.
> >
> > You might wish to do a search on koi to gather more information. My
> first
> > hit on Google was this site --http://www.vcnet.com/koi_net/ --
> Koi.net. It
> > is a start.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of K
> > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 11:11 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
> >
> > Like I mention my aunt and uncle have koi (three also) and they have had
> > them in a tank (smaller than mine) for years and they haven't really
> > grown that much. They tend to put them in a pond when the weather gets
> > warm, which I cannot do.
> >
> > I do not think I have ever did a nitrogen cycle ever... The tank was set
> > up for a few days before I added the fish. They are medium size I guess,
> > do not ask me what they are in inches, because I do not know.
> >
> >
> >
> > Steve Szabo wrote:
> > > In addition to what Chris asks (and I know that you said three koi),
> > what
> > > size are they? What did you do to start the nitrogen cycle in that
> tank,
> > > other than letting it sit?
> > >
> > > It is not unusual for a new tank to get cloudy within several weeks of
> > > being
> > > started and adding fish. Once you get past this point, you should
> be OK
> > > until the fish grow too large for the tank, which will happen fairly
> > > quickly
> > > with koi, if they are properly maintained. Koi will grow very large,
> > which
> > > is why they are kept in ponds rather than tanks.
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > Behalf Of K
> > > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:02 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
> > >
> > > After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added three Koi.
> > > Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and
> then to
> > > very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with
> Koi, is
> > > it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
> > > their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Marine biologist
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Marine+biologist&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=GsrYYajCSz1j-rLVbGfzJQ>
> Biology
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Biology&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=kCXM3ecd_hIhYxEUWyOFHw>
> Bucharest romania
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Bucharest+romania&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=vmb2ug9CWB9kL66YwGMKxw>
>
> San francisco bay area
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=San+francisco+bay+area&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=kxKEEDwyByHRbNnZILE_dQ>
> United kingdom
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=United+kingdom&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=HPM_nDJbj1M7rAx3MGd2cg>
> South africa
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=South+africa&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=MBXb0fWSCz1Yq1V6P7BEkw>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> * Visit your group "AquaticLife
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife>" on the web.
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16977 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/9/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
I just went online looking for test kits, and one of the best will set me
back less than $40 and includes:
# Ammonia Test (salicylate), Freshwater
# Ammonia Test (salicylate), Saltwater
# Nitrite
# Low Range Nitrate
# Low Range pH - measures 5.5-7.5
# High Range pH (freshwater only) measures 6.5-9.5 -->
# High Range (Marine & Fresh) pH measures 7.8-8.6

Even taking into account the replacement reagents, that is only a bit more
expensive than the strips I saw online, and for some tests, less expensive.
I like the AquaTru by Kordon (the one above, because of the vials that they
have, makes the color matching incredibly easy. You can find other test kit
combos for less. Good strips are that--good, but they test for a very
limited range. I have used strips in the past, and would use them in the
field, but for home use, I'd go with a high quality reagent test kit over
the same strip.

If you want to save money, look into making your own food for your fish.
Don't skimp on test kits, water conditioners, heaters (not applicable with
your koi), and filtration.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of K
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 11:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???

I wasn't saying the actual test said normal. I was saying the reading
the tests gave were normal. It is a water stick test.

I do not have the money to go out and get certain test or equipment, nor
do I have the space. I live in an apartment, I am sure they would not be
happy with setting up a pond on a deck. If I was on a ground floor with
access to the outdoors, they may think/say something else. Even though I
wouldn't want to put the fish outdoors at an apartment, who knows what
they put in the grass and/or plants. Also, more of a chance probably of
someone stealing the fish or doing something to them.

If the fish get too big for the tank, I will deal with that when it
comes. Who knows maybe I will have a house then, which would be nice.


Steve Szabo wrote:
> No test gives "normal" as a result. Other than litmus paper, a number is
> given. Those numbers are important. When you post to this list, or any
> other
> list, results from a test, you should give those numbers along with
> the test
> you have done. That way, those who are reading can give you advice,
> especially if there are a series of numbers from the same test taken at
> different times. The numbers can establish a trend, good or bad, that can
> then be addresses.
>
> A well cared for koi will reach in excess of 36". There are very few tanks
> available for fish of that size. If you can get back issues of "Aquarium
> Fish Magazine", look for issues with the columns and articles by Steve
> Meyer. That should give you a pretty good education about koi.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of K
> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 10:03 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
>
> Then probably small to very small. I just eyed them with a ruler and
> they look to be around 2 to 3 inches.
>
> I have added fish earlier than this before and had no problem, but like
> you just mention they are dirty fish... I did a water test just last
> night and everything is normal from what the test said.
>
> I haven't seen them lately, but the last time I saw my aunt and uncle
> koi they were quite happy. I am not sure what size they were when they
> put them in the tank...
>
> Steve Szabo wrote:
> > A medium koi, to me, would be on about 12-15" long. I am thinking that
> > yours
> > are not quite that large.
> >
> > You are experiencing a bacterial bloom now. Koi are "dirty" fish,
> > producing
> > a lot of ammonia and solid wastes. All of a sudden, you have added a
> heavy
> > load to your tank. Bacteria are now multiplying like crazy to take
> care of
> > it. If you were to measure your ammonia, you'll probably find it to be
> > fairly high right now. It takes 6-8 weeks to cycle a tank. If you
> > search the
> > archives, you will find a lot of information hear about the nitrogen
> > cycle.
> >
> > Your aunt and uncle's fish are not showing typical koi growth. This
> > could be
> > due to several factors, but they are likely not very happy fish.
> >
> > You might wish to do a search on koi to gather more information. My
> first
> > hit on Google was this site --http://www.vcnet.com/koi_net/ --
> Koi.net. It
> > is a start.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of K
> > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 11:11 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
> >
> > Like I mention my aunt and uncle have koi (three also) and they have had
> > them in a tank (smaller than mine) for years and they haven't really
> > grown that much. They tend to put them in a pond when the weather gets
> > warm, which I cannot do.
> >
> > I do not think I have ever did a nitrogen cycle ever... The tank was set
> > up for a few days before I added the fish. They are medium size I guess,
> > do not ask me what they are in inches, because I do not know.
> >
> >
> >
> > Steve Szabo wrote:
> > > In addition to what Chris asks (and I know that you said three koi),
> > what
> > > size are they? What did you do to start the nitrogen cycle in that
> tank,
> > > other than letting it sit?
> > >
> > > It is not unusual for a new tank to get cloudy within several weeks of
> > > being
> > > started and adding fish. Once you get past this point, you should
> be OK
> > > until the fish grow too large for the tank, which will happen fairly
> > > quickly
> > > with koi, if they are properly maintained. Koi will grow very large,
> > which
> > > is why they are kept in ponds rather than tanks.
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > Behalf Of K
> > > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:02 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
> > >
> > > After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added three Koi.
> > > Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and
> then to
> > > very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with
> Koi, is
> > > it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
> > > their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16978 From: K Date: 5/10/2006
Subject: Re: Koi problem???
I didn't pick up the test I have, someone else did. I usually do not use
them at all.

I can look into that test you mention, but it sound to high price for me
right now.

Steve Szabo wrote:
> I just went online looking for test kits, and one of the best will set me
> back less than $40 and includes:
> # Ammonia Test (salicylate), Freshwater
> # Ammonia Test (salicylate), Saltwater
> # Nitrite
> # Low Range Nitrate
> # Low Range pH - measures 5.5-7.5
> # High Range pH (freshwater only) measures 6.5-9.5 -->
> # High Range (Marine & Fresh) pH measures 7.8-8.6
>
> Even taking into account the replacement reagents, that is only a bit more
> expensive than the strips I saw online, and for some tests, less
> expensive.
> I like the AquaTru by Kordon (the one above, because of the vials that
> they
> have, makes the color matching incredibly easy. You can find other
> test kit
> combos for less. Good strips are that--good, but they test for a very
> limited range. I have used strips in the past, and would use them in the
> field, but for home use, I'd go with a high quality reagent test kit over
> the same strip.
>
> If you want to save money, look into making your own food for your fish.
> Don't skimp on test kits, water conditioners, heaters (not applicable with
> your koi), and filtration.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of K
> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 11:10 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
>
> I wasn't saying the actual test said normal. I was saying the reading
> the tests gave were normal. It is a water stick test.
>
> I do not have the money to go out and get certain test or equipment, nor
> do I have the space. I live in an apartment, I am sure they would not be
> happy with setting up a pond on a deck. If I was on a ground floor with
> access to the outdoors, they may think/say something else. Even though I
> wouldn't want to put the fish outdoors at an apartment, who knows what
> they put in the grass and/or plants. Also, more of a chance probably of
> someone stealing the fish or doing something to them.
>
> If the fish get too big for the tank, I will deal with that when it
> comes. Who knows maybe I will have a house then, which would be nice.
>
>
> Steve Szabo wrote:
> > No test gives "normal" as a result. Other than litmus paper, a number is
> > given. Those numbers are important. When you post to this list, or any
> > other
> > list, results from a test, you should give those numbers along with
> > the test
> > you have done. That way, those who are reading can give you advice,
> > especially if there are a series of numbers from the same test taken at
> > different times. The numbers can establish a trend, good or bad,
> that can
> > then be addresses.
> >
> > A well cared for koi will reach in excess of 36". There are very few
> tanks
> > available for fish of that size. If you can get back issues of "Aquarium
> > Fish Magazine", look for issues with the columns and articles by Steve
> > Meyer. That should give you a pretty good education about koi.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of K
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 10:03 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
> >
> > Then probably small to very small. I just eyed them with a ruler and
> > they look to be around 2 to 3 inches.
> >
> > I have added fish earlier than this before and had no problem, but like
> > you just mention they are dirty fish... I did a water test just last
> > night and everything is normal from what the test said.
> >
> > I haven't seen them lately, but the last time I saw my aunt and uncle
> > koi they were quite happy. I am not sure what size they were when they
> > put them in the tank...
> >
> > Steve Szabo wrote:
> > > A medium koi, to me, would be on about 12-15" long. I am thinking that
> > > yours
> > > are not quite that large.
> > >
> > > You are experiencing a bacterial bloom now. Koi are "dirty" fish,
> > > producing
> > > a lot of ammonia and solid wastes. All of a sudden, you have added a
> > heavy
> > > load to your tank. Bacteria are now multiplying like crazy to take
> > care of
> > > it. If you were to measure your ammonia, you'll probably find it to be
> > > fairly high right now. It takes 6-8 weeks to cycle a tank. If you
> > > search the
> > > archives, you will find a lot of information hear about the nitrogen
> > > cycle.
> > >
> > > Your aunt and uncle's fish are not showing typical koi growth. This
> > > could be
> > > due to several factors, but they are likely not very happy fish.
> > >
> > > You might wish to do a search on koi to gather more information. My
> > first
> > > hit on Google was this site --http://www.vcnet.com/koi_net/ --
> > Koi.net. It
> > > is a start.
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > Behalf Of K
> > > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 11:11 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
> > >
> > > Like I mention my aunt and uncle have koi (three also) and they
> have had
> > > them in a tank (smaller than mine) for years and they haven't really
> > > grown that much. They tend to put them in a pond when the weather gets
> > > warm, which I cannot do.
> > >
> > > I do not think I have ever did a nitrogen cycle ever... The tank
> was set
> > > up for a few days before I added the fish. They are medium size I
> guess,
> > > do not ask me what they are in inches, because I do not know.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Steve Szabo wrote:
> > > > In addition to what Chris asks (and I know that you said three koi),
> > > what
> > > > size are they? What did you do to start the nitrogen cycle in that
> > tank,
> > > > other than letting it sit?
> > > >
> > > > It is not unusual for a new tank to get cloudy within several
> weeks of
> > > > being
> > > > started and adding fish. Once you get past this point, you should
> > be OK
> > > > until the fish grow too large for the tank, which will happen fairly
> > > > quickly
> > > > with koi, if they are properly maintained. Koi will grow very large,
> > > which
> > > > is why they are kept in ponds rather than tanks.
> > > >
> > > > \\Steve//
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > > Behalf Of K
> > > > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:02 PM
> > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi problem???
> > > >
> > > > After I set up the tank and let it run for a while, I added
> three Koi.
> > > > Not long after I got the Koi the tank started getting cloudy and
> > then to
> > > > very cloudy. I never had Koi before, is this problem normal with
> > Koi, is
> > > > it my filter or is it something else? My aunt and uncle have Koi and
> > > > their tank is clear and I do not remember it ever getting cloudy.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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>
>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16979 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/10/2006
Subject: 50 gal bow front value question
I'm about to go look at a 50 gal. bow front w/ stand. It has under
gravel filter and a penguin HOB along w/ gravel.
He's asking $125. He said the hood is cracked at the hinges and needs
new glass but it does have the light. Otherwise in great shape.

Assuming it is in great shape...is this a good deal?
I know that sounds indecisive but something is unsettling. I think I
hate not have an intact hood. So with that in consideration, is it a
good deal despite the broken hood?
I have just had such headaches with the 75 gal hood being broken. They
aren't easy to replace without dropping $100 which defeats the purpose
of buying used in my opinion.

Thanks,
Leslie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16980 From: humbottom Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: fish...of course
is it possible to order fish online...

specifically i am looking for brichardi and lelupi...

cant seem to find them locally

thnx...

woody
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16981 From: cciglan Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfish?
Hello, Hello!

I have been scouring the net for hours and just found your group:YAHOO!! I really mean it!
YAHOO!!
I hope someone can answer my question re: 2 firebellied toads in a 5 and one half gallon
(tallish) tank with one (biggish) goldfish. I plan to use undergravel filtration PLUS compact
3in1 internal filtration contraption (biological, chemical, mechanical thingie. Both the fish
and the toads like life a bit on the cool side. The toads are excellent climbers, and i can
silicone branches in place with live vining plants wrapped around them: pretty creative when
it comes to using available space WELL. My only concern is regards the toxicity of the toads:
I have had this goldfish for years now and would prefer NOT to kill the poor thing. I am
willing to do weekly (partial but big) water changes. Let's say: one third of the tank is water
(plaudarium-style with islands for the toads) and the remainder is more 'arboreal" with
vineing plants and cork-wood branches aplenty. Can it work?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16982 From: cciglan Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Further to: Fire bellied toads and golfish question...
Or, alternatively:

i also have a banjo-headed catfish which i could put with the toads instead of the goldfish. It
appears these fish actually prefer cooler waters as compared with cory's and loaches (room
temp). Would this be a better or worse fit?

Any and all suggestions gratefully received. I have faith in you lot!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16983 From: steve Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Re: 50 gal bow front value question
Sounds to me like you'd be spending at leat $300.00 for that kind of
setup if you bought new. I'm not sure where anybody would have to
spend $100.00 for a hood at though. When mine break, I get some sheet
glass cut at the hardware store, and order in... maybe ten dollars in
plastic parts from the pet store if necessary.

Maybe you're talking about those huge wood or plastic things they put
on top of some aquariums to hide the lights and such. I think those
are crap to begin with, but to each his own.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16984 From: angaturama07 Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Re: 50 gal bow front value question
I'd say it is a good deal. I just bought myself a (new) 46 gal
bowfront and lid. The tank was on sale for $120, the glass hinged
hood was $45, and i spent $20 on gravel. I had a filter waiting that
a friend of mine had given me as a gift, but it would have cost me
another $40 if I'd had to buy it. You oughta consider taking the
deal if you have the money, and replace the lid if you need to. With
all of that equipment in the deal, it is pretty good!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I'm about to go look at a 50 gal. bow front w/ stand. It has under
> gravel filter and a penguin HOB along w/ gravel.
> He's asking $125. He said the hood is cracked at the hinges and
needs
> new glass but it does have the light. Otherwise in great shape.
>
> Assuming it is in great shape...is this a good deal?
> I know that sounds indecisive but something is unsettling. I
think I
> hate not have an intact hood. So with that in consideration, is
it a
> good deal despite the broken hood?
> I have just had such headaches with the 75 gal hood being broken.
They
> aren't easy to replace without dropping $100 which defeats the
purpose
> of buying used in my opinion.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16985 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Re: fish...of course
Yes,
I just bought some on ebay last night.
I have also bought them on Aquabid.com

www.neptuneaquatics.com may have both of those.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: humbottom <humbottom@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 10 May 2006 01:24:17 -0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] fish...of course


is it possible to order fish online...

specifically i am looking for brichardi and lelupi...

cant seem to find them locally

thnx...

woody









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16986 From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: New file uploaded to AquaticLife
Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the AquaticLife
group.

File : /MOTHER.doc
Uploaded by : harryfisherman <harryfisherman@...>
Description : Happy Mother's Day

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files/MOTHER.doc

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

harryfisherman <harryfisherman@...>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16987 From: cody adams Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: right dimension tank for cichlids
can anybody help me . what tank is better for cichlids such as central
and south american cichlids. i know tall are for good for like discus
fish and angel fish i think but what about long tanks and wide tanks
and of squared tanks what dimensions is better for cichlids such as
jacks , juagars, green terrors, and red devils,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16988 From: cody adams Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: right dimension tank for cichlids
can anybody help me . what tank is better for cichlids such as central
and south american cichlids. i know tall are for good for like discus
fish and angel fish i think but what about long tanks and wide tanks
and of squared tanks what dimensions is better for cichlids such as
jacks , juagars, green terrors, and red devils,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16989 From: cody adams Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: employment in the aquatic world
I am 24 years olds , am i really into fish , i like raising them,
breeding them , and watching them. I am also into to other aquatic
species of animal I am really trying to get into an occupations thats
related to the these interests, That i can make a living off of, does
anybody out there have any suggestions, about any jobs related to what
i like to do , even if it reguires going to college for.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16990 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
I don't know anything about the toads, but the goldfish certainly needs a
tank larger than a 5.5 gallon tank. An adult goldfish requires a 29-30
gallon tank for itself. If you want to do a paludarium type tank, you'll
need at least a 55, and possible larger, to support the one goldfish.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cciglan
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 5:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1
big goldfish?

Hello, Hello!

I have been scouring the net for hours and just found your group:YAHOO!! I
really mean it!
YAHOO!!
I hope someone can answer my question re: 2 firebellied toads in a 5 and one
half gallon
(tallish) tank with one (biggish) goldfish. I plan to use undergravel
filtration PLUS compact
3in1 internal filtration contraption (biological, chemical, mechanical
thingie. Both the fish
and the toads like life a bit on the cool side. The toads are excellent
climbers, and i can
silicone branches in place with live vining plants wrapped around them:
pretty creative when
it comes to using available space WELL. My only concern is regards the
toxicity of the toads:
I have had this goldfish for years now and would prefer NOT to kill the poor
thing. I am
willing to do weekly (partial but big) water changes. Let's say: one third
of the tank is water
(plaudarium-style with islands for the toads) and the remainder is more
'arboreal" with
vineing plants and cork-wood branches aplenty. Can it work?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16991 From: hank voss Date: 5/12/2006
Subject: Re: right dimension tank for cichlids
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cody adams" <cornbread_05@...>
wrote:
>
> can anybody help me . what tank is better for cichlids such as
central
> and south american cichlids. i know tall are for good for like
discus
> fish and angel fish i think but what about long tanks and wide tanks
> and of squared tanks what dimensions is better for cichlids such as
> jacks , juagars, green terrors, and red devils,
>
==================
Cody:
With the fish you state you will need tanks with as much
surface area as possible that is "BIG BIG TANKS".
Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16992 From: Thomas Schlemmermeyer Date: 5/13/2006
Subject: Re: right dimension tank for cichlids
I remember having read a book particularly on the rearing of
Apistogramma (a South-American genus of very small cichlids). If you
put enough hiding places under rocks, stones etc., and if you put the
rocks, stones etc. in the tank in a way that the rocks don´t destroy
the tank,

well then a 10 Gallons tank may do for these "Mini-cichlids".

Thomas


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cody adams" <cornbread_05@...>
wrote:
>
> can anybody help me . what tank is better for cichlids such as
central
> and south american cichlids. i know tall are for good for like discus
> fish and angel fish i think but what about long tanks and wide tanks
> and of squared tanks what dimensions is better for cichlids such as
> jacks , juagars, green terrors, and red devils,
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16993 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/13/2006
Subject: Re: right dimension tank for cichlids
Log on to www.cichlid-forum.com <http://www.cichlid-forum.com/> and check
out Library, Quick Reference, Cookie Cutter Set-ups for 10 gallon aquariums.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Thomas Schlemmermeyer
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 10:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: right dimension tank for cichlids




I remember having read a book particularly on the rearing of
Apistogramma (a South-American genus of very small cichlids). If you
put enough hiding places under rocks, stones etc., and if you put the
rocks, stones etc. in the tank in a way that the rocks don´t destroy
the tank,

well then a 10 Gallons tank may do for these "Mini-cichlids".

Thomas


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cody adams" <cornbread_05@...>
wrote:
>
> can anybody help me . what tank is better for cichlids such as
central
> and south american cichlids. i know tall are for good for like discus
> fish and angel fish i think but what about long tanks and wide tanks
> and of squared tanks what dimensions is better for cichlids such as
> jacks , juagars, green terrors, and red devils,
>







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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16994 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/13/2006
Subject: 3 in 1 Lighting question
I want a new 3 in 1 light for this bow front I just purchased. It will
house angels other compatible community fish.
I can't seem to find a decent "deal" on any of them that don't have
several spots of poor feedback or red flags.
I'm hoping someone here can point me to a reputable person or online
store to where I can purchase one from.
Also, should I be looking for any specific type of daylight bulbs? I
won't be planting any live plants in here. I just want what's best for
the fish.

One more thought: Does anyone know where there is a volume calculator
for bow front aquariums?

Thanks,
Leslie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16995 From: cody adams Date: 5/14/2006
Subject: question
what are sump tanks and what are the used for
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16996 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/14/2006
Subject: Re: question
When used, they are generally found in marine setups. They serve as a
reservoir of water along with, but not always, some extra filtration. An
outgrowth of this is the refugarium, to which plants and animals have been
added which serve specific purposes in conditioning water--the plants taking
up nitrates and producing oxygen, Animals to do various tasks.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cody adams
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 8:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] question

what are sump tanks and what are the used for







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16997 From: KttmfC Date: 5/14/2006
Subject: Angelfish question...
I had a Discus and a Kris die on me about a month ago i believe due to
holen in the head.... they got white between the eyes then pop eye
then death...... well knowing this now my angel seems to have small
tumors on its upper and bottom lips in the left side... almost like
little bumps at the tips. Does anyone know what may have caused this
since im trying to rule out hole in the head for this beauty.... thanks

Kris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16998 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 5/15/2006
Subject: Question about my new 150 gallon tank.
Hi all!
I just got my 150 gallon tank and it's just beautiful. I have some
questions though.
It has been used as a salt water tank and has some salt remains
inside. What should I clean it with? I will have South American
cichlids in it. Will any marine salt remains hurt the fish?
Also, I'm shopping around for a hose to fill up water with, what
material should I look for? I've heard before that rubber is the best
but when I looked at the warnings on them it said they might contain
led. Any ideas what to look for?
One last question, when I've looked for gravel options for cichlids, a
lot of people recomend layers of bigger gravel, regular gravel and
even sand. What are your experiances? The fish are such diggers and re-
decoraters so I can't see how layers of different gravel would work.
Thanks for bearing with all my questions and have a wonderful day!!
Magdalena
Group: AquaticLife Message: 16999 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/15/2006
Subject: Re: Question about my new 150 gallon tank.
If it were African cichlids, I'd say not to worry. However, if you are going
to be keeping South Americans that are partial to soft acidic waters (not
all are), then use water and elbow grease to remove the salt. You will
probably need to do it several times. An alternate means would be to fill it
up with water, let it sit for a few days and check the water for pH and
hardness, then compare against your normal water supply. There may not be
enough slat in there to make it worthwhile to try and remove it. If the
difference is not much or less, empty the tank and set it up. If there is a
big difference, empty the tank and dry it out with absorbent
material--towels or paper towels. This will get the salt that is now in
suspension, and drying the tank manually, rather than air drying, will help
to remove some of the salt still adhered to the tank glass. Then repeat as
needed.

As for a hose, look for one labeled to be used for potable water. You may
need to look at a place that sells supplies for RV use.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of eandtuta1924
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 8:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about my new 150 gallon tank.

Hi all!
I just got my 150 gallon tank and it's just beautiful. I have some
questions though.
It has been used as a salt water tank and has some salt remains
inside. What should I clean it with? I will have South American
cichlids in it. Will any marine salt remains hurt the fish?
Also, I'm shopping around for a hose to fill up water with, what
material should I look for? I've heard before that rubber is the best
but when I looked at the warnings on them it said they might contain
led. Any ideas what to look for?
One last question, when I've looked for gravel options for cichlids, a
lot of people recomend layers of bigger gravel, regular gravel and
even sand. What are your experiances? The fish are such diggers and re-
decoraters so I can't see how layers of different gravel would work.
Thanks for bearing with all my questions and have a wonderful day!!
Magdalena







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17000 From: 42 Date: 5/15/2006
Subject: Re: Question about my new 150 gallon tank.
Vinigar is safe to clean tanks with... People actually add a little salt to fresh water for stress... A little salt never hurt... Wal-Mart sells hoses that are a siphon and fill combo for like $25... Use gravel that is not small enough to get lodged in their mouths... They can choke

eandtuta1924 <eandtuta1924@...> wrote: Hi all!
I just got my 150 gallon tank and it's just beautiful. I have some
questions though.
It has been used as a salt water tank and has some salt remains
inside. What should I clean it with? I will have South American
cichlids in it. Will any marine salt remains hurt the fish?
Also, I'm shopping around for a hose to fill up water with, what
material should I look for? I've heard before that rubber is the best
but when I looked at the warnings on them it said they might contain
led. Any ideas what to look for?
One last question, when I've looked for gravel options for cichlids, a
lot of people recomend layers of bigger gravel, regular gravel and
even sand. What are your experiances? The fish are such diggers and re-
decoraters so I can't see how layers of different gravel would work.
Thanks for bearing with all my questions and have a wonderful day!!
Magdalena






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17001 From: 42 Date: 5/15/2006
Subject: Re: question
A sump is a type of small habitat for benificial bacteria to grow to filter saltwater tanks... Can be made out of a 10 gallon aquarium or as large as a metal horse water trouth... They contain things like live sand and live rock... Some people would rather have the live rock in a sump rather than a tank when running fish only and need the extra filtration along with the rock in their tank for a reef being inverts are very sensitive to water quality...

cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: what are sump tanks and what are the used for






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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17002 From: Evita Date: 5/16/2006
Subject: Re: Question about my new 150 gallon tank.
Magdalena, I just wanted to say congrads on the new tank. I am going this morning to get my new used 55 gal tank this morning myself. It is the largest I have ever had. I can't imagine a 155 gal. I can't wait to see some photos. Evita




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17003 From: bigter4 Date: 5/16/2006
Subject: Re: Just a sad story for all to read and learn from
Hi Shannon, Soory it took so long for me to get back to you
My daughter was just born, so i have been really busy. Well, the
cloud eye is gone and a few survived. After a few weeks I got some
new fish and all seems better. I was just so horrible to watch
happen - Terry



>
> that is indeed horrific I fear that something like that will happen
when I
> go away on my long trips... I try and educated my mom who watches
my tank for
> me but in general she just doesn't have the best sight and has so
much to do
> rather than gaze over my tank for hours a day... but she has got
better and
> such and im lucky to have someone period but im thinking I need to
create a
> symptom list for her to watch out for now.. Shannon
>
> Hello All, we here is my story. just before last wknd I wsas
watching
> my fish and i noticed something. ( now this is an established, not
> overstcked tank with all levels perfect) i looked at my one Bala
shark
> and he had a cloudy eye. I thought this was strange and was not
sure
> what it was. I went to research this to see if he was sick or
perhaps
> after 3 or more yrs the eyes get like this. ( bala man was about 3
yrs
> old) The next day the other shark had it as well. Weh I cam home
from
> work with the answer... POPEYE.. It was too late. Both sharks were
> dead. I did the water change, and medicated the tank. that night 3
> others dided and the next day evetone was dead except 3 fish. So
far
> the tank is doing better but i lost almost everyone. This is just
a
> lesson to payu attn too . I have never had any issues in this tank
> bedsides ICk a few yrs back. No one new was added and I have done
> nothing different. I guess im just trying to say is pay attn.
Maybe if
> i noticed this eye the day before my tank would still be alive. -
Terry
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17004 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/16/2006
Subject: Odd swimming betta
My son has this betta that has gone through hell and back. He is the
one that had the fungus coming out of his gills. Before we cured of
that ailment, he had previously aquired horrible popeye. He's come
through all his trials but after his last battle he just sits on the
bottom of the tank. Only coming up when he eats or needs to take a
breath. He absolutely never swims around anymore and he is so so so
skinny, almost paper thin.
When he does swim to the top, it is a SAD sight as he is struggling so
hard.

WHAT could this be and is it treatable?

Thanks,
Leslie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17005 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/16/2006
Subject: Rocks & pH
Do river rocks change a pH level? Driftwood softens and I think I
remember that certain rocks hardens.
I ask because the driftwood softened my tank down to 6.5 and my fish
didn't take to it well. Now I have buffered it back to 7.0 (which is
our tap condition as well) but I know they could stand it another tenth
or so higher.
~Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17006 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 5/19/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
Thanks, Steve. I already gave up on the idea.
Goldfish is not as big as you appear to think: he is
blissfully happy all alone in the 5.5 tank. the toads
have a 10 gallon all to themselves. I kicked them
outside on my balcony: the tank is actually heated at
one end (I live in Calgary, Alberta and it is entirely
normal to still get snow here); they have live plants
in there and almost a foot of spaghnum moss (with a
layer of coconut bark below and gravel below that) to
play and burrow in plus a sizable swimming pool and...
My animals live WAY better than I do.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17007 From: steve Date: 5/19/2006
Subject: my red line shark or rose line shark or puntius denisonii
or whatever you want to call it i found it at a pet supplies plus for
only 15.99 WOW i never seen them that cheap actually i got 2 of them
but 1 died on the way home good thing for pet supplies plus has a 7
day warranty on their fish but hell i haven t seen them at any other
fish stores for less then 40 bucks and as much as 60 bucks i will post
of pic of him in the pics department
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17008 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/19/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
Goldfish have a tendency to grow. I do not know what type you have, but the
comets and the like (normal fish shaped body) will grow to at least twelve
inches. The types with a more compressed body that is ball shaped will still
equal that length in body mass. The recommendation for an adult fish is 30
gallons per fish. As your goldfish grows, you will need to increase the size
of the tank to accommodate the increase in size and the increase of waste
production by the fish. Did I mention that goldfish are "dirty" fish,
creating a lot of waste and ammonia for the filters to take care of? With
any goldfish of more than an inch or so, you should be doing daily water
changes in the 5.5 gallon tank to help accommodate the wastes produced.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Christa Ciglan
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 2:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and
1 big goldfish?

Thanks, Steve. I already gave up on the idea.
Goldfish is not as big as you appear to think: he is
blissfully happy all alone in the 5.5 tank. the toads
have a 10 gallon all to themselves. I kicked them
outside on my balcony: the tank is actually heated at
one end (I live in Calgary, Alberta and it is entirely
normal to still get snow here); they have live plants
in there and almost a foot of spaghnum moss (with a
layer of coconut bark below and gravel below that) to
play and burrow in plus a sizable swimming pool and...
My animals live WAY better than I do.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17009 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 5/19/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
Hello Steve,

I know these goldfish are incredibly "poopy". Holy,
moly, this fish's accomodations are going to be larger
than my own in "Apartment-Land" (my native habitat).
I will need to rent a separate studio for him. He is
tough as nails, and of the "ball-shaped' variety. I
have had him for 3 years; how long do these fish
live???

Thanks,
Christa
--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:


---------------------------------
Goldfish have a tendency to grow. I do not know what
type you have, but the
comets and the like (normal fish shaped body) will
grow to at least twelve
inches. The types with a more compressed body that is
ball shaped will still
equal that length in body mass. The recommendation for
an adult fish is 30
gallons per fish. As your goldfish grows, you will
need to increase the size
of the tank to accommodate the increase in size and
the increase of waste
production by the fish. Did I mention that goldfish
are "dirty" fish,
creating a lot of waste and ammonia for the filters to
take care of? With
any goldfish of more than an inch or so, you should be
doing daily water
changes in the 5.5 gallon tank to help accommodate the
wastes produced.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Christa Ciglan
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 2:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Community Tank Viability: 2
firebellied toads and
1 big goldfish?

Thanks, Steve. I already gave up on the idea.
Goldfish is not as big as you appear to think: he is
blissfully happy all alone in the 5.5 tank. the toads
have a 10 gallon all to themselves. I kicked them
outside on my balcony: the tank is actually heated at
one end (I live in Calgary, Alberta and it is entirely
normal to still get snow here); they have live plants
in there and almost a foot of spaghnum moss (with a
layer of coconut bark below and gravel below that) to
play and burrow in plus a sizable swimming pool and...
My animals live WAY better than I do.




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
replying, thanks.
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, .·´¯`·..><((((º>
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17010 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
With proper care, upwards of 20-25 years or longer.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Christa Ciglan
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 1:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and
1 big goldfish?

Hello Steve,

I know these goldfish are incredibly "poopy". Holy,
moly, this fish's accomodations are going to be larger
than my own in "Apartment-Land" (my native habitat).
I will need to rent a separate studio for him. He is
tough as nails, and of the "ball-shaped' variety. I
have had him for 3 years; how long do these fish
live???

Thanks,
Christa
--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:


---------------------------------
Goldfish have a tendency to grow. I do not know what
type you have, but the
comets and the like (normal fish shaped body) will
grow to at least twelve
inches. The types with a more compressed body that is
ball shaped will still
equal that length in body mass. The recommendation for
an adult fish is 30
gallons per fish. As your goldfish grows, you will
need to increase the size
of the tank to accommodate the increase in size and
the increase of waste
production by the fish. Did I mention that goldfish
are "dirty" fish,
creating a lot of waste and ammonia for the filters to
take care of? With
any goldfish of more than an inch or so, you should be
doing daily water
changes in the 5.5 gallon tank to help accommodate the
wastes produced.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Christa Ciglan
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 2:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Community Tank Viability: 2
firebellied toads and
1 big goldfish?

Thanks, Steve. I already gave up on the idea.
Goldfish is not as big as you appear to think: he is
blissfully happy all alone in the 5.5 tank. the toads
have a 10 gallon all to themselves. I kicked them
outside on my balcony: the tank is actually heated at
one end (I live in Calgary, Alberta and it is entirely
normal to still get snow here); they have live plants
in there and almost a foot of spaghnum moss (with a
layer of coconut bark below and gravel below that) to
play and burrow in plus a sizable swimming pool and...
My animals live WAY better than I do.




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, .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that
is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC
of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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.·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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biologist Biology
Bucharest romania

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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17011 From: Beth Brownell Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: How long does Angelfishes live for?
I have six Angelfishes living in my 55 gallon tank and
another seven living in my 30 gallon tank.

I had two Angelfishes die one of a breathing problem,
had to mercy kill him and another die in an ornament
got stuck in it.

But how long do they live for?

Thanks,
Beth Brownell
Camdenton, MO

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17012 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: Re: How long does Angelfishes live for?
I can't locate my reference right now (someone decided that the house needs
a makeover and moved a bunch of my fish books to who knows where), but 10-12
years sticks in my mind.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Beth Brownell
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 8:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How long does Angelfishes live for?

I have six Angelfishes living in my 55 gallon tank and
another seven living in my 30 gallon tank.

I had two Angelfishes die one of a breathing problem,
had to mercy kill him and another die in an ornament
got stuck in it.

But how long do they live for?

Thanks,
Beth Brownell
Camdenton, MO

__________________________________________________
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17013 From: jim Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: Re: 3 in 1 Lighting question
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I want a new 3 in 1 light for this bow front I just purchased. It
will house angels other compatible community fish.
> I can't seem to find a decent "deal" on any of them
> I'm hoping someone here can point me to a reputable person or
online store to where I can purchase one
> Also, should I be looking for any specific type of daylight
bulbs? I won't be planting any live plants in here. I just want
what's best for the fish.
> One more thought: Does anyone know where there is a volume
calculator for bow front aquariums?

> Thanks,
> Leslie

--- be more specific,,3-in-1 light? just what is on your mind?
--- for a fish only tank , almost any lamp would do as long as you
can see the fish
--- "bigalsonline" e-store has some good prices,, you have to pay
shipping though
--- any LFS in your area dealing used equipment? replace the bulb
and you are good as new
,,,,,,,,,,,,,regards,,,Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17014 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: Re: Community Tank Viability: 2 firebellied toads and 1 big goldfis
Thanks again Steve,

I am utterly AMAZED. I'll be needing to put him in my
will!

--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:


---------------------------------
With proper care, upwards of 20-25 years or longer.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Christa Ciglan
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 1:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Community Tank Viability: 2
firebellied toads and
1 big goldfish?

Hello Steve,

I know these goldfish are incredibly "poopy". Holy,
moly, this fish's accomodations are going to be larger
than my own in "Apartment-Land" (my native habitat).
I will need to rent a separate studio for him. He is
tough as nails, and of the "ball-shaped' variety. I
have had him for 3 years; how long do these fish
live???

Thanks,
Christa
--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:


---------------------------------
Goldfish have a tendency to grow. I do not know what
type you have, but the
comets and the like (normal fish shaped body) will
grow to at least twelve
inches. The types with a more compressed body that is
ball shaped will still
equal that length in body mass. The recommendation for
an adult fish is 30
gallons per fish. As your goldfish grows, you will
need to increase the size
of the tank to accommodate the increase in size and
the increase of waste
production by the fish. Did I mention that goldfish
are "dirty" fish,
creating a lot of waste and ammonia for the filters to
take care of? With
any goldfish of more than an inch or so, you should be
doing daily water
changes in the 5.5 gallon tank to help accommodate the
wastes produced.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Christa Ciglan
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 2:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Community Tank Viability: 2
firebellied toads and
1 big goldfish?

Thanks, Steve. I already gave up on the idea.
Goldfish is not as big as you appear to think: he is
blissfully happy all alone in the 5.5 tank. the toads
have a 10 gallon all to themselves. I kicked them
outside on my balcony: the tank is actually heated at
one end (I live in Calgary, Alberta and it is entirely
normal to still get snow here); they have live plants
in there and almost a foot of spaghnum moss (with a
layer of coconut bark below and gravel below that) to
play and burrow in plus a sizable swimming pool and...
My animals live WAY better than I do.




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸.
, .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that
is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC
of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
.·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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biologist Biology
Bucharest romania

San francisco bay area
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South africa


---------------------------------
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---------------------------------




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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
replying, thanks.
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, .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that
is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
.·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸.
, .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that
is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC
of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
.·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
Marine
biologist Biology
Bucharest romania

San francisco bay area
United kingdom
South africa


---------------------------------
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---------------------------------




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17015 From: KttmfC Date: 5/20/2006
Subject: fish seeking home
im tryiong to sell community fish so if your in the san diego area...
ill hook ya up!!! let me know
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17016 From: blackbimmer1972 Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: African Dwarf Frog
Hey gang, I have an African dwarf frog who scurries about my 44 gallon
tank among a community of pretty active fish. I'm concerned that the
other fish may be beating him to the punch as far as grabbing all the
available food. He's been okay for about a week now since I first got
stocked him, so I assume he's managing to eat something. I'm just
curious if anyone has experience with these little guys and if there
are any special conditions for feeding dwarf frogs in a community
tank. Thanks.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17017 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: what's wrong with my severum?
My gold severum has some nasty wound on it's left cheek and i wonder
if any of you know what it is and how to treat it. the fish eats
normal and acts normal.
I have a picture of the fish in the album 55 gallon tank by eandtuta.
Please help me!
Magdalena
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17018 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with my severum?
Do you have other fish in the tank? Could it be a wound from fighting?

Maybe a parasite?

If it were mine the first thing I would do would be a large water change and treat the water with a slime coat enhancer, something like NovAqua +. There are other brands of course.

After that I don't know what to tell you.
Aggresion?
parasite?
poor water quality?

-----Original Message-----
From: eandtuta1924 <eandtuta1924@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 22 May 2006 17:31:05 -0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] what's wrong with my severum?


My gold severum has some nasty wound on it's left cheek and i wonder
if any of you know what it is and how to treat it. the fish eats
normal and acts normal.
I have a picture of the fish in the album 55 gallon tank by eandtuta.
Please help me!
Magdalena


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17019 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Fast cycle question
If I take an existing bio-wheel off my double filter and use it on a
single wheel filter, is that an instant cycle for the filters tank? I
think yes but need to be sure.
ALSO...If I add a new bio-wheel to the then empty wheel chamber, will
that tank need to go through a mini cycle in order to esatblish the new
wheel?

One more thing, does adding gravel from an established tank to a new
tank help the cycle along?

Thanks!
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17020 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with my severum?
I think it looks parasitic or bacterial. I don't think it's a wound of
any kind though, unless you have a very destructive pleco that sucked on
his face for a while. =)
L

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 4:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] what's wrong with my severum?



Do you have other fish in the tank? Could it be a wound from fighting?

Maybe a parasite?

If it were mine the first thing I would do would be a large water change
and treat the water with a slime coat enhancer, something like NovAqua
+. There are other brands of course.

After that I don't know what to tell you.
Aggresion?
parasite?
poor water quality?

-----Original Message-----
From: eandtuta1924 <eandtuta1924@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 22 May 2006 17:31:05 -0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] what's wrong with my severum?


My gold severum has some nasty wound on it's left cheek and i wonder
if any of you know what it is and how to treat it. the fish eats
normal and acts normal.
I have a picture of the fish in the album 55 gallon tank by eandtuta.
Please help me!
Magdalena


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17021 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Magdalena: FW: Gerard...a disease for you to check out
I asked another group about your fish disease. I don't know if he
looked at the picture in this group or not but this is what he said with
my description.
L


<<pimple type puss spots and then a red side around the spots.>>

Sounds like Epistyles. Usually occurs due to poor environmental
conditions. Best "treatment" is to vastly improve the environment:
gravel clean, water change, filter change.

Frank


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17022 From: Bev Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Help Please Unidentified Cichlid
I was given a Cichlid but have not been able to find out what he is.
It is about 4 inches long and thick bodied. It is pink with dark eyes.
It also has a slight hump on its head and pale spots on his elongated
fins and tail. If anyone has any idea what he is please let me know
and I will look at pictures of suggested breeds and see if I can
identify it. Thanks for your time.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17023 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 5/22/2006
Subject: Re: Help Please Unidentified Cichlid
A Red Devil?

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/RedDevil.php



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bev
Sent: 23 May 2006 04:54
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help Please Unidentified Cichlid



I was given a Cichlid but have not been able to find out what he is.
It is about 4 inches long and thick bodied. It is pink with dark eyes.
It also has a slight hump on its head and pale spots on his elongated
fins and tail. If anyone has any idea what he is please let me know
and I will look at pictures of suggested breeds and see if I can
identify it. Thanks for your time.





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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ist&w2=Biology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+king
dom&w6=South+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=kxKEEDwyByHRbNnZILE_dQ> francisco bay
area

United
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=United+kingdom&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=B
iology&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=S
outh+africa&c=6&s=124&.sig=HPM_nDJbj1M7rAx3MGd2cg> kingdom

South
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=South+africa&w1=Marine+biologist&w2=Bio
logy&w3=Bucharest+romania&w4=San+francisco+bay+area&w5=United+kingdom&w6=Sou
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17024 From: supamii Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fast cycle question
Technically the used bio-wheel should help your tank cycle faster -
but I'm not sure how well it will get the job done.

I'm quite confident that the gravel will be effective in helping the
organisms spread - just add a source of ammonia to get things going -

As for the new wheel being added to your double wheel - I've heard
that water does not contain as much beneficial bacteria as the gravel
would - but left on there long enough, I'm sure some bacteria is bound
to grow!

G'luck.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> If I take an existing bio-wheel off my double filter and use it on a
> single wheel filter, is that an instant cycle for the filters tank? I
> think yes but need to be sure.
> ALSO...If I add a new bio-wheel to the then empty wheel chamber, will
> that tank need to go through a mini cycle in order to esatblish the new
> wheel?
>
> One more thing, does adding gravel from an established tank to a new
> tank help the cycle along?
>
> Thanks!
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17025 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fast cycle question
Used (dirty) filter material, and used (dirty gravel) are the primary
growing media for beneficial bacteria. The transfer of both or either to a
new tank introduces healthy, growing bacteria instantly. As long as there
is ammonia for the transferred bacteria to eat, your tank is cycled
instantly. I don’t know if bio-wheel filters also have cartridges.



My experience: I cycled a 10 gallon tank in the old-fashioned, 8 week way.
By design, I used twice as much substrate in the 10 gallon than I wanted to
end up with in the 10 gallon. When it was time to change the filter
cartridges I removed the dirty 10G ones and put them into my 38 gallon
tank…just laid them inside the tank among the rocks for a week. I also put
half the used 10G substrate on top of the new substrate in my 38 gallon
tank.



The 10 gallon tank and the 38 gallon tank had almost the same fish load
initially, so the biofilter was able to handle all ammonia and nitrite
immediately. There was never an ammonia or nitrite reading in the 38 gallon
tank.



If you are using another substrate in the new tank, I have also heard you
can place the dirty material in bags for easy subsequent removal.



Good luck!!

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of supamii
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 5:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fast cycle question



Technically the used bio-wheel should help your tank cycle faster -
but I'm not sure how well it will get the job done.

I'm quite confident that the gravel will be effective in helping the
organisms spread - just add a source of ammonia to get things going -

As for the new wheel being added to your double wheel - I've heard
that water does not contain as much beneficial bacteria as the gravel
would - but left on there long enough, I'm sure some bacteria is bound
to grow!

G'luck.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> If I take an existing bio-wheel off my double filter and use it on a
> single wheel filter, is that an instant cycle for the filters tank? I
> think yes but need to be sure.
> ALSO...If I add a new bio-wheel to the then empty wheel chamber, will
> that tank need to go through a mini cycle in order to esatblish the new
> wheel?
>
> One more thing, does adding gravel from an established tank to a new
> tank help the cycle along?
>
> Thanks!
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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_____



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17026 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fast cycle question
Thanks for that. About 1/4 of the gravel in here was transferred from
the running tank. I also floated a used foam pad that was in the
running tanks filter for several days.
As of now all tests are at 0 w/ nitrates at only 5. That's low so I'm
watching it closely and will test again tonight. Ammonia was still 0
this morning. So far so good.
~Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 10:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Fast cycle question



Used (dirty) filter material, and used (dirty gravel) are the primary
growing media for beneficial bacteria. The transfer of both or either
to a
new tank introduces healthy, growing bacteria instantly. As long as
there
is ammonia for the transferred bacteria to eat, your tank is cycled
instantly. I don't know if bio-wheel filters also have cartridges.



My experience: I cycled a 10 gallon tank in the old-fashioned, 8 week
way.
By design, I used twice as much substrate in the 10 gallon than I wanted
to
end up with in the 10 gallon. When it was time to change the filter
cartridges I removed the dirty 10G ones and put them into my 38 gallon
tank.just laid them inside the tank among the rocks for a week. I also
put
half the used 10G substrate on top of the new substrate in my 38 gallon
tank.



The 10 gallon tank and the 38 gallon tank had almost the same fish load
initially, so the biofilter was able to handle all ammonia and nitrite
immediately. There was never an ammonia or nitrite reading in the 38
gallon
tank.



If you are using another substrate in the new tank, I have also heard
you
can place the dirty material in bags for easy subsequent removal.



Good luck!!

_____




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17027 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: pictus catfish vs. cory cats
Are the two compatible? I have a pictus in a 46 bow front and am about
to add some cories. I know pictus will sometimes eat other fish which
is why I ask.
Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17028 From: hank voss Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: pictus catfish vs. cory cats
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Are the two compatible? I have a pictus in a 46 bow front and am
about
> to add some cories. I know pictus will sometimes eat other fish
which
> is why I ask.
> Thanks,

====If the pistus can get it in its mouth it will usually try to eat
it!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17029 From: Andrew Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: How long does Angelfishes live for?
I have two angel fish in my 75 gallon community tank that are six
years old.

Andy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17030 From: G�rard Gagnon Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: Re: Help Please Unidentified Cichlid
This picture have the good name Amphilophus Labiatum ( Dr. Axerold Atals of
fresh water aquarium fishes 10-th ed. Page 493) you should not rely only on
the color look at the gravel at bottom of picture look a little bit red
also, probably a right light.



Gerard

------------------------------------

A Red Devil?

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/RedDevil.php



Nim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17031 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 5/24/2006
Subject: new member
hi , just joind your group my name is holly and I am from Australia
at the moment I have a 4ft tank set up and have been going through the
cycling stage I lost the adult guppies and some platties though they have
left me a nice batch of babies that are now an inch long
fish : 12guppies ,8 platy ,3 mollies all babies , 2 angels , 2 cory , 1
bristle nosed cat and a variety of plants
3 , 4ft tube lights that I leave on for 12 hours a day
I would like some idea as to the fish stocking rate for a planted tank this
size
and what other kinds of algae eating fish could be added to what I already
have
thanking you
holly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17032 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Water Change and Death
A quick update to my problem. So I wrote yesterday that I was gone for a
few months and when I returned the person apt watching never did the necessary
water changes. So there was no water change for approximately four months.
The fish seemed okay (2 deaths) but the neon tetras, albino cory's cardinal
tetras and glo lights were fine. Anyway, the numbers were normal (temp 78, ph
7.4, ammonia 0-.25, good nitrite and nitrate numbers. I did a 60% water
change yesterday and changed the filters. Well an hour later, the ammonia
spiked to 2.0 (I used tap water I always use) and when I woke up this morning tank
was dead.

Was it a mistake to do such a significant water change after 4 months or
should I have left things alone since my #'s looked good? As a result, I am
breakin down the tank, buying a new filter, and starting over again from scratch.

Ken



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17033 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
Ken,

The fish acclimated to the water conditions slowly. I think Your massive
60% waterchange probally threw your tank and the fish into Shock.
In Hind sight maybe a couple smaller 5% waterchanges would have been better
so your ammonia spikes could have been smaller and the fish and tank could
have acclimated better.
Problem with tearing it all down and starting over is Just that you will be
starting over
The tank its self doesn't need to be torn down either, Just a good cleaning
is in order.I don't see a need for a new filter truthfully. The old filter
should still have good bacteria in it, try and keep it viable so your next cycle
won't be so long.

Sorry to hear about your loses.. Loosing a Whole tank really is terrible and
take it from me can be downright depressing.


rob renfro
Indiana



In a message dated 5/25/2006 9:43:53 AM Central Daylight Time, Iksnip@...
writes:


>
>
> A quick update to my problem. So I wrote yesterday that I was gone for a
> few months and when I returned the person apt watching never did the
> necessary
> water changes. So there was no water change for approximately four months.
>
> The fish seemed okay (2 deaths) but the neon tetras, albino cory's cardinal
>
> tetras and glo lights were fine. Anyway, the numbers were normal (temp 78,
> ph
> 7.4, ammonia 0-.25, good nitrite and nitrate numbers. I did a 60% water
> change yesterday and changed the filters. Well an hour later, the ammonia
> spiked to 2.0 (I used tap water I always use) and when I woke up this
> morning tank
> was dead.
>
> Was it a mistake to do such a significant water change after 4 months or
> should I have left things alone since my #'s looked good? As a result, I
> am
> breakin down the tank, buying a new filter, and starting over again from
> scratch.
>
> Ken
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17034 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
Ken, As long as the parameters of the new (tap) water was the same
or similar as that of the tank water (temperature, pH, ammonia, etc.)
when you changed it, there should not have been any "shock" of any
sort to the fish, no matter how old the tank water was. The obvious
reason for your massive fish kill was of course the high ammonia
reading (not "shock"), which you must have been somewhat aware of
yourself since you indicate it spiked to 2.0, effectively telling us
this was out of the ordinary (which it was, or why else would you
have said it "spiked"?)

While you could have done several smaller water changes, the one
large water change did not kill your fish -- UNLESS -- you originally
read your pH wrong (just one possibility). Otherwise, we should
concentrate our efforts on how and why the ammonia spiked to 2.0 in a
matter of one hour; extremely unusual.

First factor under suspicion is the tap water -- did you check the
ammonia level of it at any time or especially when you came up with a
reading of 2.0 in your tank? While its noted that you changed out
the filter material, effectively throwing away the ammonia converting
bacteria and rendering the filter basically useless as a biological
filter for some time, this in itself should not cause the ammonia to
spike in an hour's time, even though it will cause the ammonia to
rise. How did you add the new water? Did you use buckets? If so,
what were the buckets last used for? What, if anything did you use
to eliminate the chloramines in the tap water? Depending on what was
used, you well may have released the ammonia (from the chloramines)
in the tap water into the aquarium without actually eliminating
them. For such a sudden and drastic rise in the ammonia, this seems
to possibly be the more probable scenario. In this case, really no
need to break down the tank and/or buy a new filter if this is the
case, you just need to be more careful. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Iksnip@... wrote:
>
>
> A quick update to my problem. So I wrote yesterday that I was
gone for a
> few months and when I returned the person apt watching never did
the necessary
> water changes. So there was no water change for approximately
four months.
> The fish seemed okay (2 deaths) but the neon tetras, albino cory's
cardinal
> tetras and glo lights were fine. Anyway, the numbers were normal
(temp 78, ph
> 7.4, ammonia 0-.25, good nitrite and nitrate numbers. I did a 60%
water
> change yesterday and changed the filters. Well an hour later, the
ammonia
> spiked to 2.0 (I used tap water I always use) and when I woke up
this morning tank
> was dead.
>
> Was it a mistake to do such a significant water change after 4
months or
> should I have left things alone since my #'s looked good? As a
result, I am
> breakin down the tank, buying a new filter, and starting over again
from scratch.
>
> Ken
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17035 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Specific Filter Recommendation for Fish and Amphibs
Hi Guys,

I currently have a 75 gallon tank that I am intending to house with fish
(approximately 45 gallons) and leave the other 35 gallons open air space to
house various amphibians. Taking aside issues relating to species that can
coexist with each other, I was curious what type of filtration is recommended and
also if one could actually recommend a specific filter. I've tried the
Emporer 280 and 400 but I get grinding sounds if the tank is not completely
fillled so that is out.

Is an underground filter better? or is there a specific filter type that
can descend into the water actually but not be an underground filter?

any help is appreciated!

Ken



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17036 From: kristopher helsing Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Re: Specific Filter Recommendation for Fish and Amphibs
I would recommend an Eheim canister filter or maybe a fluval... i love mine.

Iksnip@... wrote:
Hi Guys,

I currently have a 75 gallon tank that I am intending to house with fish
(approximately 45 gallons) and leave the other 35 gallons open air space to
house various amphibians. Taking aside issues relating to species that can
coexist with each other, I was curious what type of filtration is recommended and
also if one could actually recommend a specific filter. I've tried the
Emporer 280 and 400 but I get grinding sounds if the tank is not completely
fillled so that is out.

Is an underground filter better? or is there a specific filter type that
can descend into the water actually but not be an underground filter?

any help is appreciated!

Ken



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17037 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
Sorry I did not note your message yesterday.

Here is what I would done should I had been in your position. First, if the
water level was low, I would have added water to bring the level back to
normal. After the water had circulated for a period, I would have made a
small water change, perhaps not the 5% that Rob mentions, but enough to
bring the water down about an inch or so, and replace that water with fresh,
conditioned water. I'd continue to do the same every day or two watching my
numbers and the fish. In addition to the tests you did, I'd do a hardness
test. The hardness would have risen over the period you were gone, and
getting the hardness back to "normal" would be an indicator of how far I had
come in regaining control of the processes occurring in the tank.

You don't really need to break down the tank, now, just take care of it like
you are cycling the tank, which is what you are doing. If you do wish to
break down the tank, to give it a good cleaning (and I might do the same)
you do not need a new filter, unless, of course, you have your heart set on
one <g>. If the current filter has served you well, then keep it and use it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Iksnip@...
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 10:42 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water Change and Death


A quick update to my problem. So I wrote yesterday that I was gone for a
few months and when I returned the person apt watching never did the
necessary
water changes. So there was no water change for approximately four months.

The fish seemed okay (2 deaths) but the neon tetras, albino cory's cardinal

tetras and glo lights were fine. Anyway, the numbers were normal (temp 78,
ph
7.4, ammonia 0-.25, good nitrite and nitrate numbers. I did a 60% water
change yesterday and changed the filters. Well an hour later, the ammonia
spiked to 2.0 (I used tap water I always use) and when I woke up this
morning tank
was dead.

Was it a mistake to do such a significant water change after 4 months or
should I have left things alone since my #'s looked good? As a result, I
am
breakin down the tank, buying a new filter, and starting over again from
scratch.

Ken
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17038 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/25/2006
Subject: Re: Specific Filter Recommendation for Fish and Amphibs
For a tank that size, you should probably make an investment in a canister
filter. I like the Ehiem brand, but they can be a bit pricey. You can set
the return to make a stream running through your land mass.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Iksnip@...
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 4:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Specific Filter Recommendation for Fish and Amphibs


Hi Guys,

I currently have a 75 gallon tank that I am intending to house with fish
(approximately 45 gallons) and leave the other 35 gallons open air space to

house various amphibians. Taking aside issues relating to species that can

coexist with each other, I was curious what type of filtration is
recommended and
also if one could actually recommend a specific filter. I've tried the
Emporer 280 and 400 but I get grinding sounds if the tank is not completely

fillled so that is out.

Is an underground filter better? or is there a specific filter type that
can descend into the water actually but not be an underground filter?

any help is appreciated!

Ken



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17039 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/26/2006
Subject: Algae covered gravel
I am revamping my daughters school tank. It's been neglected and is
covered in algae.
One of my main questions is the gravel, it's covered in algae. Can I
clean this or would I be better off getting new? I'm thinking if I have
to get new, I will just go into the playground and grab buckets of that
gravel. I think might be easier to clean and sift out than this
attached algae.

I was thinking I might let a couple of kissing gouramis have an algae
feast over the summer and see if they help in that, along w/ a
plecostomus as well.
I just need to get this algae gone or minimized and I can take care of
the rest. I just haven't had to deal w/ this amount of it before.

What other fish like to eat algae? I'll put whatever I can in there
during the summer months.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17040 From: aclaar877 Date: 5/26/2006
Subject: Tetra Eggs
I am currently trying to breed some glowlight tetras, and have done
everything recommended by the many articles written on the subject.
My question is, are glowlight's eggs visible after they spawn? My
female is slimmer today after a night in the 5G breeding tank with two
males, but I don't see eggs. Are they hard to distinguish from the
peat and gravel residue that can settle on the bottom of a bare-
bottomed tank? I don't want to use bright lights or remove the egg
crate grid just yet. Just how small are the eggs?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17041 From: hank voss Date: 5/26/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aclaar877" <aclaar877@...> wrote:
>
> I am currently trying to breed some glowlight tetras, and have done
> everything recommended by the many articles written on the subject.
> My question is, are glowlight's eggs visible after they spawn?

Yes,they are quite small if you used plants for a spawning medium
use a droplight of flashlight from the rear of the tank.They will look
like clear mini pin heads attached to the plants.

My
> female is slimmer today after a night in the 5G breeding tank with
two
> males, but I don't see eggs. Are they hard to distinguish from the
> peat and gravel residue that can settle on the bottom of a bare-
> bottomed tank?

If you have peat or gravel residue on the bottom you will not see
them as they will blend in with the medium. Using a light will not
harm the eggs i would lift the egg crate to check for eggs.The parents
are egg eaters.
P.S. If you get young youll have to feed them infusoris then bs.


Regards Hank



I don't want to use bright lights or remove the egg
> crate grid just yet. Just how small are the eggs?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17042 From: aclaar877 Date: 5/26/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
If it's true algae, and not a blue-green "carpet" of cyanobacteria,
then a siamese algae eater will take care of it. They are worth the
money and trip to get them, even if you have to try a few stores to
find them. Next time I set up a tank that's the only algae eater
I'm going to bother to get.

Is the tank planted? If not, you can just keep the lights off for
several days, and the algae will all die. It's up to you whether or
not you want new stuff from the playground, but SAEs or darkness
will take care of the algae. Water changes are another thing--they
should happen on a regular basis. Many times phosphates and
nitrates will build up if the water isn't changed regularly, and can
contribute to algae problems.


Andy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I am revamping my daughters school tank. It's been neglected and
is
> covered in algae.
> One of my main questions is the gravel, it's covered in algae.
Can I
> clean this or would I be better off getting new? I'm thinking if
I have
> to get new, I will just go into the playground and grab buckets of
that
> gravel. I think might be easier to clean and sift out than this
> attached algae.
>
> I was thinking I might let a couple of kissing gouramis have an
algae
> feast over the summer and see if they help in that, along w/ a
> plecostomus as well.
> I just need to get this algae gone or minimized and I can take
care of
> the rest. I just haven't had to deal w/ this amount of it before.
>
> What other fish like to eat algae? I'll put whatever I can in
there
> during the summer months.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17043 From: hank voss Date: 5/26/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aclaar877" <aclaar877@...> wrote:
>
> I am currently trying to breed some glowlight tetras, and have done
> everything recommended by the many articles written on the subject.
> My question is, are glowlight's eggs visible after they spawn?

Yes,they are quite small if you used plants for a spawning medium
use a droplight of flashlight from the rear of the tank.They will look
like clear mini pin heads attached to the plants.

My
> female is slimmer today after a night in the 5G breeding tank with
two
> males, but I don't see eggs. Are they hard to distinguish from the
> peat and gravel residue that can settle on the bottom of a bare-
> bottomed tank?

If you have peat or gravel residue on the bottom you will not see
them as they will blend in with the medium. Using a light will not
harm the eggs i would lift the egg crate to check for eggs.The parents
are egg eaters.
P.S. If you get young youll have to feed them infusoris then bs.


Regards Hank



I don't want to use bright lights or remove the egg
> crate grid just yet. Just how small are the eggs?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17044 From: thedakotawinds Date: 5/27/2006
Subject: Grass=Najas Guadlapensis
Hi all,

I have some Naja's Guadlapensis (Guppy Grass) that I would like to
exchange for some Tropical Hornwort and Valisneria.

If anyone is interested, please let me know,

Ivan
South Dakota
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17045 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/27/2006
Subject: Canister filter help needed
We are re-hooking up our Eheim today. It's been sitting wet for over a
month now. We ran hot water through it but I'm afraid to run it into
the tank just yet as I think I should take another stab at cleaning it.
How should I do that?
And is it OK to just start it up again? There is another filter on the
tank that's well established...this won't have an adverse affect will
it?

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17046 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/27/2006
Subject: Re: Canister filter help needed
I'd probably empty it of water and change the media--filter floss-- in it
after rinsing it out real well. If you have the ceramic media in there as
well, just rinse it thoroughly. If there are bacteria still viable in the
filter, this is where they will be, so use tank water for the rinse on it.
If the canister is grungy, wipe it out with a paper towel or cloth. Use a
long bottle brush on the tubes to clean them, if necessary, then put it all
together again, and put on the tank.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 6:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Canister filter help needed

We are re-hooking up our Eheim today. It's been sitting wet for over a
month now. We ran hot water through it but I'm afraid to run it into
the tank just yet as I think I should take another stab at cleaning it.
How should I do that?
And is it OK to just start it up again? There is another filter on the
tank that's well established...this won't have an adverse affect will
it?

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17047 From: Ash Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1203
why dont you use a gravel cleaning siphon hose?

----- Original Message -----
Message 1
From: "Leslie & Dane Moore" 5moores@...
Date: Fri May 26, 2006 6:36am(PDT)
Subject: Algae covered gravel

I am revamping my daughters school tank. It's been neglected and is
covered in algae.
One of my main questions is the gravel, it's covered in algae. Can I
clean this or would I be better off getting new? I'm thinking if I have
to get new, I will just go into the playground and grab buckets of that
gravel. I think might be easier to clean and sift out than this
attached algae.

I was thinking I might let a couple of kissing gouramis have an algae
feast over the summer and see if they help in that, along w/ a
plecostomus as well.
I just need to get this algae gone or minimized and I can take care of
the rest. I just haven't had to deal w/ this amount of it before.

What other fish like to eat algae? I'll put whatever I can in there
during the summer months.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17048 From: Evita Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1203
That's a great idea. You could stur it up a bit and then use the hose. I do that when my gravel gets a bit green. Evita

Ash <ash_nug@...> wrote: why dont you use a gravel cleaning siphon hose?



---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17049 From: wantvws Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Protein skimmer advice
Hi...does anyone know anything about Jebo protein skimmers? I am
looking at one for the initial setup of my 210 gallon tank, and they
seem to be reasonably priced, but I know nothing about the quality.
If you don't recommend this brand, which ones do you recommend?
Thanks in advance!!!!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17050 From: wantvws Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Intial tank set-up....
One other thing....I am setting up my 210 gallon fish only tank, and I
am wondering about the back of the tank. I do not want to be able to
look through and see the hoses, cords, etc., but I also do not want to
put up a vinyl ocean scene. Someone suggested painting the back
glass...has anyone done this? What color?
Thanks again!!!!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17051 From: Evita Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Robbie, WOW! Now that is a tank! Have you considered doing a loose canvas piece and then putting it on the back? I say this because once painted always painted and the same look forever. I can imagine painting on the back of such a beautiful as well as exspensive tank. I do alot of painting and I love the freedom of loose canvas for murals as well being they can be changed and moved. I have one of those cheesey back drops now just because my new-used tank came with one. I would love seeing some photo's of yours all set up. Also have you considered a shimmery blue color of regular wrapping paper. You know the tin-foil kind. That would be pretty, easy and changeable. I love the freedom to change colors with my moods. I have a dark blue back drop on my 29 gal. Evita

wantvws <rml1963@...> wrote: One other thing....I am setting up my 210 gallon fish only tank, and I
am wondering about the back of the tank. I do not want to be able to
look through and see the hoses, cords, etc., but I also do not want to
put up a vinyl ocean scene. Someone suggested painting the back
glass...has anyone done this? What color?
Thanks again!!!!
Robbie





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17052 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Usually, one paints the back glass a black, blue or green color.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of wantvws
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 7:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Intial tank set-up....

One other thing....I am setting up my 210 gallon fish only tank, and I
am wondering about the back of the tank. I do not want to be able to
look through and see the hoses, cords, etc., but I also do not want to
put up a vinyl ocean scene. Someone suggested painting the back
glass...has anyone done this? What color?
Thanks again!!!!
Robbie






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17053 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
I did the custom thing for some of my tanks, didn't want the standard issue for the tanks in the livingroom. What I did was, got poster board (going to use rolled paper next time), painted the design background using "apple barrel colors" course mixed colors as needed to get the desired color (can get little bottles really reasonable at Walmart plus was using them to paint my flower pots). When I got the poster board the ones used for the tank in the window were lighter in color on the back so they would be somewhat reflective, so after all the painting was done and dried, on a couple put a top coat of "clear glitter" so when the lights are on kind of gives the tank a cascading look. Let them dry again, then for a sealant used a product by Krylon "triple thick crystal clear glaze", sprayed 2-3 coats on each side and then let them dry over night. Only had a few dollars in each one, something different and of course fun to do, after the animals
(finned/hooved/feathered/furred) and fish art/crafts is a passion of mine. Now a couple of years later they are still holding up well, through water being splashed on them from residents water changes etc... kind of fun to do seeing as you can paint a theme to match you decorations, house decor, etc.... or even to show off the colors of the finned residents more. Even painted a couple backgrounds for 10's that are in my bedroom to match the room colors.
Just an idea, and easy to change the background if you want a change and not alot of work so to speak. Allows for lots of freedom of orginality also.

Feather

Evita <evitabug@...> wrote:
Robbie, WOW! Now that is a tank! Have you considered doing a loose canvas piece and then putting it on the back? I say this because once painted always painted and the same look forever. I can imagine painting on the back of such a beautiful as well as exspensive tank. I do alot of painting and I love the freedom of loose canvas for murals as well being they can be changed and moved. I have one of those cheesey back drops now just because my new-used tank came with one. I would love seeing some photo's of yours all set up. Also have you considered a shimmery blue color of regular wrapping paper. You know the tin-foil kind. That would be pretty, easy and changeable. I love the freedom to change colors with my moods. I have a dark blue back drop on my 29 gal. Evita

wantvws <rml1963@...> wrote: One other thing....I am setting up my 210 gallon fish only tank, and I
am wondering about the back of the tank. I do not want to be able to
look through and see the hoses, cords, etc., but I also do not want to
put up a vinyl ocean scene. Someone suggested painting the back
glass...has anyone done this? What color?
Thanks again!!!!
Robbie





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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---------------------------------
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---------------------------------





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



SPONSORED LINKS
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---------------------------------
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---------------------------------





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17054 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
we bought an aquarium picture for the back of our tank
the picture has aquarium rocks and plants on it
we have carried the theme through into the tank with real rocks and plants
It makes the tank seem to have much more depth than it realy has
just another idea
holly


>From: "wantvws" <rml1963@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Intial tank set-up....
>Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 11:45:42 -0000
>
>One other thing....I am setting up my 210 gallon fish only tank, and I
>am wondering about the back of the tank. I do not want to be able to
>look through and see the hoses, cords, etc., but I also do not want to
>put up a vinyl ocean scene. Someone suggested painting the back
>glass...has anyone done this? What color?
>Thanks again!!!!
>Robbie
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Send 1c txt to other Telstra Pre-Paid Plus mobiles. Join now
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17055 From: aclaar877 Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
Hank, thanks.

Turns out I did have some eggs, and noticed a few fry this morning.
Can't find them this afternoon, but it's at least comforting to know
the preparation and spawning techniques actually work. I'll get the
grid and mops out of there and see what I can find. That and get
some green water started...

AC

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aclaar877" <aclaar877@> wrote:
> >
> > I am currently trying to breed some glowlight tetras, and have
done
> > everything recommended by the many articles written on the
subject.
> > My question is, are glowlight's eggs visible after they spawn?
>
> Yes,they are quite small if you used plants for a spawning
medium
> use a droplight of flashlight from the rear of the tank.They will
look
> like clear mini pin heads attached to the plants.
>
> My
> > female is slimmer today after a night in the 5G breeding tank
with
> two
> > males, but I don't see eggs. Are they hard to distinguish from
the
> > peat and gravel residue that can settle on the bottom of a bare-
> > bottomed tank?
>
> If you have peat or gravel residue on the bottom you will not see
> them as they will blend in with the medium. Using a light will not
> harm the eggs i would lift the egg crate to check for eggs.The
parents
> are egg eaters.
> P.S. If you get young youll have to feed them infusoris then bs.
>
>
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
> I don't want to use bright lights or remove the egg
> > crate grid just yet. Just how small are the eggs?
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17056 From: hank voss Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aclaar877" <aclaar877@...>
wrote:
>
> Hank, thanks.
>
> Turns out I did have some eggs, and noticed a few fry this
morning.
==========================
Hi:
Congratulation your a dad!!!They will probably be on the bottom
and and edges of the tank.You will probably lose most of them
because you have to have the green water or infusoria ready by the
time the eggs hatch,they start feeding as soon as they become free
swimming.At least you know that you can do it.

Good luck Hank





> Can't find them this afternoon, but it's at least comforting to
know
> the preparation and spawning techniques actually work. I'll get
the
> grid and mops out of there and see what I can find. That and get
> some green water started...
>
> AC
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aclaar877" <aclaar877@>
wrote:
> > >
> > > I am currently trying to breed some glowlight tetras, and have
> done
> > > everything recommended by the many articles written on the
> subject.
> > > My question is, are glowlight's eggs visible after they spawn?
> >
> > Yes,they are quite small if you used plants for a spawning
> medium
> > use a droplight of flashlight from the rear of the tank.They
will
> look
> > like clear mini pin heads attached to the plants.
> >
> > My
> > > female is slimmer today after a night in the 5G breeding tank
> with
> > two
> > > males, but I don't see eggs. Are they hard to distinguish
from
> the
> > > peat and gravel residue that can settle on the bottom of a
bare-
> > > bottomed tank?
> >
> > If you have peat or gravel residue on the bottom you will not
see
> > them as they will blend in with the medium. Using a light will
not
> > harm the eggs i would lift the egg crate to check for eggs.The
> parents
> > are egg eaters.
> > P.S. If you get young youll have to feed them infusoris then bs.
> >
> >
> > Regards Hank
> >
> >
> >
> > I don't want to use bright lights or remove the egg
> > > crate grid just yet. Just how small are the eggs?
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17057 From: Evita Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Shannon, That sounds nice but you have got to try the loose canvas. It last forever and doesn't tare. All you do is prime it with white paint and let dry and then you can use acrylics on it. I love adding metallic colors in here and there, like the silver's and golds. It dries great in 14 hours and you can cut it to fit any size. Cost of nothing depending on if you have any old sheets lying around. You don't have to seal it if you don't want too either, unless you do it on wood or metal. If you want to change it just roll it up and store it. You could make several different ones for the seasons even. The themes can go as far as imagination can take a person. Just for fun you could even paint a ice and snow banked creek to go behind the tank in the winter using the cool, cold, blue colors. Evita

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote: I did the custom thing for some of my tanks, didn't want the standard issue for the tanks in the livingroom. What I did was, got poster board (going to use rolled paper next time), painted the design background using "apple barrel colors" course mixed colors as needed to get the desired color (can get little bottles really reasonable at Walmart plus was using them to paint my flower pots). When I got the poster board the ones used for the tank in the window were lighter in color on the back so they would be somewhat reflective, so after all the painting was done and dried, on a couple put a top coat of "clear glitter" so when the lights are on kind of gives the tank a cascading look. Let them dry again, then for a sealant used a product by Krylon "triple thick crystal clear glaze", sprayed 2-3 coats on each side and then let them dry over night. Only had a few dollars in each one, something different and of course fun
to do, after the animals
(finned/hooved/feathered/furred) and fish art/crafts is a passion of mine. Now a couple of years later they are still holding up well, through water being splashed on them from residents water changes etc... kind of fun to do seeing as you can paint a theme to match you decorations, house decor, etc.... or even to show off the colors of the finned residents more. Even painted a couple backgrounds for 10's that are in my bedroom to match the room colors.
Just an idea, and easy to change the background if you want a change and not alot of work so to speak. Allows for lots of freedom of orginality also.

Feather



---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17058 From: wantvws Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Thanks for the idea...do you have any pictures of what you've done? It
sounds like a way cool idea....
Thanks again!
Robbie
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> I did the custom thing for some of my tanks, didn't want the
standard issue for the tanks in the livingroom. What I did was, got
poster board (going to use rolled paper next time), painted the design
background using "apple barrel colors" course mixed colors as needed
to get the desired color (can get little bottles really reasonable at
Walmart plus was using them to paint my flower pots). When I got the
poster board the ones used for the tank in the window were lighter in
color on the back so they would be somewhat reflective, so after all
the painting was done and dried, on a couple put a top coat of "clear
glitter" so when the lights are on kind of gives the tank a cascading
look. Let them dry again, then for a sealant used a product by Krylon
"triple thick crystal clear glaze", sprayed 2-3 coats on each side and
then let them dry over night. Only had a few dollars in each one,
something different and of course fun to do, after the animals
> (finned/hooved/feathered/furred) and fish art/crafts is a passion
of mine. Now a couple of years later they are still holding up well,
through water being splashed on them from residents water changes
etc... kind of fun to do seeing as you can paint a theme to match you
decorations, house decor, etc.... or even to show off the colors of
the finned residents more. Even painted a couple backgrounds for 10's
that are in my bedroom to match the room colors.
> Just an idea, and easy to change the background if you want a
change and not alot of work so to speak. Allows for lots of freedom of
orginality also.
>
> Feather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17059 From: wantvws Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Thanks everyone for the ideas....there are many that I never would
have thought of.
Anyone have any pictures of what they have used?
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17060 From: aclaar877 Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
Actually, I have a planted tank that I've been fighting green water
on for about a month. I figure I can get a jar of it, put it in the
sun, and have it get really green by Wednesday. I also might throw
some plant clippings in there.

Question--I have a very nasty bucket of tank water w/lettuce and
broccoli that I've had outside for a week, trying to get mosquito
larvae. I live on the fourth floor, so no luck yet. Is this safe
for fry to feed on? It's got the film on top, rotting lettuce,
absolutely filthy.

AC

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aclaar877" <aclaar877@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hank, thanks.
> >
> > Turns out I did have some eggs, and noticed a few fry this
> morning.
> ==========================
> Hi:
> Congratulation your a dad!!!They will probably be on the bottom
> and and edges of the tank.You will probably lose most of them
> because you have to have the green water or infusoria ready by the
> time the eggs hatch,they start feeding as soon as they become free
> swimming.At least you know that you can do it.
>
> Good luck Hank
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17061 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Intial tank set-up....
Soon as the camera batteries are charged up LOL I'll post some new pics showing the whole background. Actually just changed around the residents and filtration system in one of the 55's looks pretty cool, quite a change from the bigger residents, now dwarfs run the bottom and angels (dime to fifty cent piece bodies) the top 1/2.

Feather

wantvws <rml1963@...> wrote:
Thanks everyone for the ideas....there are many that I never would
have thought of.
Anyone have any pictures of what they have used?
Robbie



Marine biologist Biology Bucharest romania San francisco bay area United kingdom South africa

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17062 From: hank voss Date: 5/28/2006
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aclaar877" <aclaar877@...>
wrote:
>
> Actually, I have a planted tank that I've been fighting green
water
> on for about a month. I figure I can get a jar of it, put it in
the
> sun, and have it get really green by Wednesday. I also might
throw
> some plant clippings in there.
=======================
Wed. will be to late putit in now.They have to be fed as
soon as they become free swimming.

> Question--I have a very nasty bucket of tank water w/lettuce and
> broccoli that I've had outside for a week, trying to get mosquito
> larvae. I live on the fourth floor, so no luck yet. Is this safe
> for fry to feed on? It's got the film on top, rotting lettuce,
> absolutely filthy.
> =====================
It should be safe,to see if you have infusorisa in it use
flashlight from behind the jar you should see like a fog below the
water surface that should be the infusoria the best way to get out
of the jar is with a turkey baster,once you break the surface film
you wont beleive the smell.If you really want to raise them you
better start hatching bbs now they will be ready for it in 2-3
days. Depends on where you live as to be able to get mos. lar.and
infus. now outdoors as they are temp. dependant.

Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17063 From: Ash Date: 5/29/2006
Subject: Courting Oscars?
About 5 mins ago i witnessed my 2 oscars locking lips and flairing their
gills at each other.
now im not convinced that they are fighting, as they have never botherd each
other since i got them (and they were a great deal smaller back then), also,
they dont appear to be hurting each other.
my quesiton is basically,
are they engaged in a mating ritual?
and does this confirm that they are indeed male and female?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17064 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 5/29/2006
Subject: my new 150 gallon tank
Hi everyone and happy holiday
Yesterday after having two strong men over we managed to put the giant
tank together me and my husband.
I filled it up and treated the tank with stess coat and stress zyme.
then I did a water test and saw the Ph was a little off so I treated
the water with Proper Ph 7.0. Before I added that the water seemed
fine. But after the Ph stuff the tank clouded up and now the morning
after it still looks very milky.
What can I do, will it clear up by itself?
I had planned to add some of my cichlids tomorrow but now I don't know.
Thanks in advance
Magdalena
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17065 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/29/2006
Subject: Re: my new 150 gallon tank
Magdelena, By the pH being "a little off", just how "off" was it? It
may not have been that much different from what you are trying to
adjust it to, to even bother attempting. You don't need the pH to be
exactly 7.0. For less stress on the fish, its really a lot easier to
have your tank water match (or be close to) you tap water, when you do
yor water changes, unless you are going to breed these Cichlids you're
getting, and have water storage space to adjust your pH before doing
each water change.

It sounds possibly like your carbonates are precipitating out, with
your water turning milky. Depending upon your hardness, you may get
this result when adding chemicals to decrease your pH as they will also
be trying to reduce your alkalinity. Unless your water (pH) is way
off from neutral, I would suggest leaving it where it is, even if it
means draining and refilling the tank. Weren't you planning on cycling
the tank first before adding these Cichlids? You will need to
establish ammonia and nitrite converting bacteria in this aquarium, for
the nitrogen cycle before adding fish. This takes on the average of
six weeks, unless you plan on using BioSpira. BTW; what type of
Cichlids are they? Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "eandtuta1924" <eandtuta1924@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi everyone and happy holiday
> Yesterday after having two strong men over we managed to put the
giant
> tank together me and my husband.
> I filled it up and treated the tank with stess coat and stress zyme.
> then I did a water test and saw the Ph was a little off so I treated
> the water with Proper Ph 7.0. Before I added that the water seemed
> fine. But after the Ph stuff the tank clouded up and now the morning
> after it still looks very milky.
> What can I do, will it clear up by itself?
> I had planned to add some of my cichlids tomorrow but now I don't
know.
> Thanks in advance
> Magdalena
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17066 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/29/2006
Subject: Re: Courting Oscars?
Ash, Doesn't matter that they never bothered each other when they
were smaller, their behavior changes as they reach maturity. They
may well be engaging in a "mating ritual", as this is one of the
possible behavioral aspects they may engage in at that time, but then
again, this does not necessarily confirm that they are a male and a
female. This behavior is also shown, as they mature, when
establishing territories and they may well be two males. This may be
further borne out as two unrelated male Cichlids (Oscar and Jaguar,
for instance) try to establish territories; they will act the same,
and of course they are not about trying to pair up with each other.
The one fact that you indicate they are not hurting each other gives
hope and more of a possibility that they may be a pair. Time will
tell, and it may be short -- keep an eye on them just in case you
need to separate them. If its a pair, and they "accept" each other
after this "contest", you've got it made, in which case they should
settle down and start cleaning an area in which to lay eggs. Lots
of luck. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Ash" <ash_nug@...> wrote:
>
> About 5 mins ago i witnessed my 2 oscars locking lips and flairing
their
> gills at each other.
> now im not convinced that they are fighting, as they have never
botherd each
> other since i got them (and they were a great deal smaller back
then), also,
> they dont appear to be hurting each other.
> my quesiton is basically,
> are they engaged in a mating ritual?
> and does this confirm that they are indeed male and female?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17067 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/29/2006
Subject: Re: my new 150 gallon tank
Magdalena.
Unless you are planning on breeding fish it is better to just get them
slowly acclimated to your existing pH. Your water supply will probably have a
buffer in it from the local municipal water supply and will try and bounce back
to that. You will probably be in a constant war with your pH with every
water change, trying to buffer it to a desired level. Better to just get the
fish used to it as the changing of the pH with each water change is what will do
the most harm to them.



In a message dated 5/29/2006 6:45:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
eandtuta1924@... writes:

Hi everyone and happy holiday
Yesterday after having two strong men over we managed to put the giant
tank together me and my husband.
I filled it up and treated the tank with stess coat and stress zyme.
then I did a water test and saw the Ph was a little off so I treated
the water with Proper Ph 7.0. Before I added that the water seemed
fine. But after the Ph stuff the tank clouded up and now the morning
after it still looks very milky.
What can I do, will it clear up by itself?
I had planned to add some of my cichlids tomorrow but now I don't know.
Thanks in advance
Magdalena





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17068 From: Ash Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1205
in my understanding, mosquitos require still water.
ive never heard anything about copius amounts of rotting lettuce.
a single leaf or sprinkle of dirt would be enough to sustain a microbial
environment.

----- Original Message -----
Message 10
From: "aclaar877" aclaar877@...
Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:20pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry

Actually, I have a planted tank that I've been fighting green water
on for about a month. I figure I can get a jar of it, put it in the
sun, and have it get really green by Wednesday. I also might throw
some plant clippings in there.

Question--I have a very nasty bucket of tank water w/lettuce and
broccoli that I've had outside for a week, trying to get mosquito
larvae. I live on the fourth floor, so no luck yet. Is this safe
for fry to feed on? It's got the film on top, rotting lettuce,
absolutely filthy.

AC
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17069 From: hank voss Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1205
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Ash" <ash_nug@...> wrote:
>
> in my understanding, mosquitos require still water.
> ive never heard anything about copius amounts of rotting lettuce.
> a single leaf or sprinkle of dirt would be enough to sustain a
microbial
> environment.
> =====================
Your right all you need is a bucket of water and in time youll
have mos.larvae why aclaar dud it that way he will have to answer
that. The fact that he used lettuce gave him a ready supply of
infusoria for the glowlite fry.
Hank



> ----- Original Message -----
> Message 10
> From: "aclaar877" aclaar877@...
> Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:20pm(PDT)
> Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
>
> Actually, I have a planted tank that I've been fighting green water
> on for about a month. I figure I can get a jar of it, put it in
the
> sun, and have it get really green by Wednesday. I also might throw
> some plant clippings in there.
>
> Question--I have a very nasty bucket of tank water w/lettuce and
> broccoli that I've had outside for a week, trying to get mosquito
> larvae. I live on the fourth floor, so no luck yet. Is this safe
> for fry to feed on? It's got the film on top, rotting lettuce,
> absolutely filthy.
>
> AC
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17070 From: aclaar877 Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1205
Right, they require water--my lettuce is in a bucket of old aquarium
water, rotting profusely. In Texas I had great results by throwing
a broccoli stump in there, so I guess that's why I still use
vegetation. Now I live on the fourth floor in the city, and
unfortunately can't attract any mosquitos on my balcony, even with
the most putrid stagnant filth. I guess that will be one benefit of
moving to a regular house with trees around--ample live food during
the warm weather months.


AC

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Ash" <ash_nug@...> wrote:
>
> in my understanding, mosquitos require still water.
> ive never heard anything about copius amounts of rotting lettuce.
> a single leaf or sprinkle of dirt would be enough to sustain a
microbial
> environment.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Message 10
> From: "aclaar877" aclaar877@...
> Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:20pm(PDT)
> Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
>
> Actually, I have a planted tank that I've been fighting green water
> on for about a month. I figure I can get a jar of it, put it in
the
> sun, and have it get really green by Wednesday. I also might throw
> some plant clippings in there.
>
> Question--I have a very nasty bucket of tank water w/lettuce and
> broccoli that I've had outside for a week, trying to get mosquito
> larvae. I live on the fourth floor, so no luck yet. Is this safe
> for fry to feed on? It's got the film on top, rotting lettuce,
> absolutely filthy.
>
> AC
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17071 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Plant Care and Death
Hi Guys,

I am starting a 75 gallon tank that ultimately will house both fish and
certain amphibians. Within the tank I have several Amazon Sword Plants and
Jungle Vallisneria. I also have some Comboda (sp) plants I believe also.

I am currently using the Repti Glow 5.0 which provides UVA at 30% UVB at
5%. I was told this was great for each of my needs. The plants are housed in
a white sand substrate and I am using one (per directions) of those plant
nutritional liquid suplemments that stores sell. I am in my office and dont
have the bottle in front of me.

Still, my plants continue to grow brown and die. What am I missing/doing
wrong?

thanks

Ken



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17072 From: red-eye Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Plant Care and Death
either light - water changes_- carbon - fertilizer in substrate - or a
liquid plant supplement
I use flourish excel and accompanying products by the same company.
I assume your tank has cycled and that the sand is not like a fine white
beach sand. I use Monterey Sand, I believe it is considered #10
Curious - what amphibians do you plan on keeping with fish?
red-eye



At 08:42 AM 5/30/2006, you wrote:
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>I am starting a 75 gallon tank that ultimately will house both fish and
>certain amphibians. Within the tank I have several Amazon Sword Plants and
>Jungle Vallisneria. I also have some Comboda (sp) plants I believe also.
>
>I am currently using the Repti Glow 5.0 which provides UVA at 30% UVB at
>5%. I was told this was great for each of my needs. The plants are
>housed in
>a white sand substrate and I am using one (per directions) of those plant
>nutritional liquid suplemments that stores sell. I am in my office and dont
>have the bottle in front of me.
>
>Still, my plants continue to grow brown and die. What am I missing/doing
>wrong?
>
>thanks
>
>Ken
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
>·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
>PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
>the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
>SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
><º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
>We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17073 From: Iksnip@aol.com Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Plant Care and Death
thanks for the input. how would the water changes kill the plants? What is
the problem with white sand btw? you say #10? what is #10?

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17074 From: red-eye Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Plant Care and Death
At 09:35 AM 5/30/2006, you wrote:
>thanks for the input. how would the water changes kill the plants?

lack of carbon in the water will give you brown plants
&
#10 is the sieve size the material fits through



>What is
>the problem with white sand btw? you say #10? what is #10?
>
>Ken
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
>·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
>PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
>the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
>SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
><º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
>We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17075 From: Ash Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1206
Thanks for your reply,
I guess i will just have to wait it out. It makes sense that their behaviour
should change, as they are entering maturity. I might even expect that they
will become much more aggressive to each other.
Maybe its time to start thinking about giving them away to a new home. There
are a number of fish i would like to start keeping but cant due to the
agressive nature of the oscars....

----- Original Message -----
Message 3
From: "Raymond Wetzel" sevenspringss@...
Date: Mon May 29, 2006 11:11am(PDT)
Subject: Re: Courting Oscars?

Ash, Doesn't matter that they never bothered each other when they
were smaller, their behavior changes as they reach maturity. They
may well be engaging in a "mating ritual", as this is one of the
possible behavioral aspects they may engage in at that time, but then
again, this does not necessarily confirm that they are a male and a
female. This behavior is also shown, as they mature, when
establishing territories and they may well be two males. This may be
further borne out as two unrelated male Cichlids (Oscar and Jaguar,
for instance) try to establish territories; they will act the same,
and of course they are not about trying to pair up with each other.
The one fact that you indicate they are not hurting each other gives
hope and more of a possibility that they may be a pair. Time will
tell, and it may be short -- keep an eye on them just in case you
need to separate them. If its a pair, and they "accept" each other
after this "contest", you've got it made, in which case they should
settle down and start cleaning an area in which to lay eggs. Lots
of luck. Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17076 From: Ash Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1206
indeed, coming from someone who is covered by mosquitos as soon as you leave
the house, you have got it made!

----- Original Message -----
Message 7
From: "aclaar877" aclaar877@...
Date: Tue May 30, 2006 7:18am(PDT)
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1205

Right, they require water--my lettuce is in a bucket of old aquarium
water, rotting profusely. In Texas I had great results by throwing
a broccoli stump in there, so I guess that's why I still use
vegetation. Now I live on the fourth floor in the city, and
unfortunately can't attract any mosquitos on my balcony, even with
the most putrid stagnant filth. I guess that will be one benefit of
moving to a regular house with trees around--ample live food during
the warm weather months.


AC

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Ash" <ash_nug@...> wrote:
>
> in my understanding, mosquitos require still water.
> ive never heard anything about copius amounts of rotting lettuce.
> a single leaf or sprinkle of dirt would be enough to sustain a
microbial
> environment.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Message 10
> From: "aclaar877" aclaar877@...
> Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:20pm(PDT)
> Subject: Re: Tetra Eggs -- Got Fry
>
> Actually, I have a planted tank that I've been fighting green water
> on for about a month. I figure I can get a jar of it, put it in
the
> sun, and have it get really green by Wednesday. I also might throw
> some plant clippings in there.
>
> Question--I have a very nasty bucket of tank water w/lettuce and
> broccoli that I've had outside for a week, trying to get mosquito
> larvae. I live on the fourth floor, so no luck yet. Is this safe
> for fry to feed on? It's got the film on top, rotting lettuce,
> absolutely filthy.
>
> AC
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17077 From: chris topher Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
i have a confession to make...

i NEVER do water changes, my tanks are heavily planted
and i just add water when it gets low, systems
stabilize for me...

i started this years ago when my angelfish kept dying
after regular water changes...

once i stopped following "the rules" my angels
survived and bred...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17078 From: jim Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
You can go to walmart and get whats called no more algae.. tank buddies its made by Jungle i tab for 10 GAL. works great eats it off and looks like alkacelser while doing it.. really does work in a very short time too! good luck

-----------------------------------------------------------------
Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17079 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1202
I'm a newBee ... how do you check the ammonia levels?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17080 From: EshMedicMom163@aol.com Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Intro
Hi, thank you for allowing me into your group! My name is Andrea (Andi).
I am a paramedic and ems instructor here in good 'ol Indiana. I have a
darling little girl named Madyson, she is 14 months. I am married to Andy, he is a
firefighter...we have been married for 2 years.
I love fish, but I must admit I've slacked off in the amount of tanks and
fish that I have. We currently only have two tanks set up, one 75 gal fresh and
one 55 gal salt. My fresh is a basic tropical tank. I had discus for a couple
of years and then lost them. I am wanting to go back to african chiclids at
some point. Our salt has one large lion fish and that's all that's left! We
had a clown trigger and a panther grouper and after a year or so, we lost
them.
I used to have 8 tanks set up, now with the baby and working I just don't
have the time that I used to. I hope to get back into it soon! I also worked at
a pet store for years and did all the fish ordering, that is how I got deeply
into the hobby.
I'm looking foward to meeting you all!

Andy & Andi
(http://daisypath.com/)


(http://lilypie.com/)

(http://www.tickerfactory.com/)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17081 From: web_geni_88 Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
If it's layer of algae on top on the Gravel try using a gravel cleaner
when you do water changes. I would do a 25 % water change twice a week
for a couple of weeks, that should clean it up nicley.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17082 From: ebayario Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Choosing the light.
Hi everyone:

I'setting up a 55 gallon tank with plants and I saw this Odyssea
Fixture and I just wanna know if anyone has had any experience with
them. Are they any good or what? Anything about it would help or any
suggestion on where to but it.

Here are the specification for the fixture.

2006 Model
Odyssea 48" 260W (4x65W) Compact Fluorescent Fixture
Fixture Support:4x65W CF and 4xBluemoon LED
Approx Fixture Size: 47"L x 7.5"W x 2.5"H
non corrosive powder coated housing
stainless steel reflector
internal electronic ballast
built-in cooling fans for continuous ventilation
individual power cords
three on/off switches controlling compact light and bluemoon
acrylic lens cover
2x65W CF Daylight 12000K bulb, 2x65W CF actinic blue bulb, 4xbluemoon
LED, and mounting legs.

thank you very much.

Ario
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17083 From: Jessica Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: HELP - planaria
Does anyone know where I can buy a , for a pet?

Jessica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17084 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1206
I would not be too hasty to get rid of them. If they are a male and
female, and they accept each other after this "trial" period, it
would be hard to find a more compatable two fish. Their aggression
will disappear and you'll stand an excellent chance of them breeding,
if this is what you are after. Hang on to them for now and keep an
eye on them. If their aggression gets worse (and it may), don't give
up the ship, unless severe damage is being done. If one of the fish
turns and runs however, and no longer has an interest in continuing
this "contest" with the other one pursuing it up into a corner,
that's the time to separate them and think about selling them off if
that's then your choice for even if they are a pair (male and
female), they will not be compatible. Second or third (or
tenth) "trial" periods seldom result in their accepting each other
after an initial failure. You would then need to keep them
separated, although there's still the possibility of them breeding in
this situation when using plastic "egg crate" material as a divider,
but no guarantee. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Ash" <ash_nug@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for your reply,
> I guess i will just have to wait it out. It makes sense that their
behaviour
> should change, as they are entering maturity. I might even expect
that they
> will become much more aggressive to each other.
> Maybe its time to start thinking about giving them away to a new
home. There
> are a number of fish i would like to start keeping but cant due to
the
> agressive nature of the oscars....
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Message 3
> From: "Raymond Wetzel" sevenspringss@...
> Date: Mon May 29, 2006 11:11am(PDT)
> Subject: Re: Courting Oscars?
>
> Ash, Doesn't matter that they never bothered each other when they
> were smaller, their behavior changes as they reach maturity. They
> may well be engaging in a "mating ritual", as this is one of the
> possible behavioral aspects they may engage in at that time, but
then
> again, this does not necessarily confirm that they are a male and a
> female. This behavior is also shown, as they mature, when
> establishing territories and they may well be two males. This may
be
> further borne out as two unrelated male Cichlids (Oscar and Jaguar,
> for instance) try to establish territories; they will act the same,
> and of course they are not about trying to pair up with each other.
> The one fact that you indicate they are not hurting each other gives
> hope and more of a possibility that they may be a pair. Time will
> tell, and it may be short -- keep an eye on them just in case you
> need to separate them. If its a pair, and they "accept" each other
> after this "contest", you've got it made, in which case they should
> settle down and start cleaning an area in which to lay eggs. Lots
> of luck. Ray
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17085 From: Dmitry Gorelov Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1202
Hi,
You can check all important water parameters with a test kit from the LFS
(local fish store). Usually people recommend liquid reagents as opposed to
the strips for being more precise and reliable.
Good luck,
Dmitry


On 5/26/06, NancyTroyer@... <NancyTroyer@...> wrote:
>
> I'm a newBee ... how do you check the ammonia levels?
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17086 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/30/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1202
Actually, you are better off with powdered reagents than the liquid. Also,
make sure that whatever kit you buy, there is an expiration date on the
reagents. Reagents will change over time and start to give you false
readings. By having an expiration date on them, you will know when they are
expected to start turning and can then go out and get new ones. Make sure
the dates are several months into the future, so you will have a chance to
use them up prior to the expiration date. If a kit has no expiration date,
do not purchase it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Dmitry Gorelov
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Digest Number 1202

Hi,
You can check all important water parameters with a test kit from the LFS
(local fish store). Usually people recommend liquid reagents as opposed to
the strips for being more precise and reliable.
Good luck,
Dmitry


On 5/26/06, NancyTroyer@... <NancyTroyer@...> wrote:
>
> I'm a newBee ... how do you check the ammonia levels?
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17087 From: hank voss Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
>
> i have a confession to make...
>
> i NEVER do water changes, my tanks are heavily planted
> and i just add water when it gets low, systems
> stabilize for me...
=========================
Chris:
As long as it works for you your ok,a long time ago when i was
a meer pup i did the same thing.I had 4-10gal. tanks heavily planted
with Ital. val. and hydro.i kept those tanks going for around 8 yrs.
that way with no problems. Now i cant get away with that method since
i dont have that many plants anymore.For some reason i cant get val.
to do good for me.Back then (early 40s)an accepted practice was to
siphon the tank and let the water settle and then pour it back all the
plants made the difference it was almost like a so called "balanced
aquariun".
PS As the old saying goes "If it aint broke dont fix it"

Regards Hank

> i started this years ago when my angelfish kept dying
> after regular water changes...
>
> once i stopped following "the rules" my angels
> survived and bred...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17088 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: New tank & pictus cat question
I just set up this 50 gal and put a bio wheel that has been established
from another tank. It has a stock of community fish in it as I assumed
it was cycled but the nitrates are just now reading at .5. That seems
awfully low to me and makes me wonder if this tank is going to go
through a complete cycle.

Also I moved a pictus catfish from the 75 into this tank. He has been
doing "summer saults" for 2 days now. He flips around a piece of
driftwood and rarely goes anywhere else. He might dart to the top for a
flashing second then he's back to the summer saults around this wood.
That can't be normal. I think he might be brain damaged or
something...it's very odd! On top of that, he isn't eating like he
normally does.
Does anyone have any pictus experience where this could be compared to
as abnormal or normal?
It's so bizarre I am thinking of taking some video and posting it.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17089 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: New tank & pictus cat question
It took my tank (the one cycled by bacteria from another tank) 10 days to
show a nitrate reading over .5.how long has it been running? How many fish
are in it?



Don't know anything about pictus, sorry.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 11:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank & pictus cat question



I just set up this 50 gal and put a bio wheel that has been established
from another tank. It has a stock of community fish in it as I assumed
it was cycled but the nitrates are just now reading at .5. That seems
awfully low to me and makes me wonder if this tank is going to go
through a complete cycle.

Also I moved a pictus catfish from the 75 into this tank. He has been
doing "summer saults" for 2 days now. He flips around a piece of
driftwood and rarely goes anywhere else. He might dart to the top for a
flashing second then he's back to the summer saults around this wood.
That can't be normal. I think he might be brain damaged or
something...it's very odd! On top of that, he isn't eating like he
normally does.
Does anyone have any pictus experience where this could be compared to
as abnormal or normal?
It's so bizarre I am thinking of taking some video and posting it.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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Marine+supply+fish&w3=Marine+aquarium+fish&w4=Marine+fish+tank&w5=Marine+fis
h+supply&w6=Marine+fish+screensaver&c=6&s=142&.sig=yPzIKsb1xVhEQSaS104MRA>
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ne+supply+fish&w3=Marine+aquarium+fish&w4=Marine+fish+tank&w5=Marine+fish+su
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fish+supply&w6=Marine+fish+screensaver&c=6&s=142&.sig=qtzt6gETEx-_VPAWs6bt8g
> fish screensaver



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17090 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: New tank & pictus cat question
It's been running since Thursday I think.
There are 4 tetras, a pictus, a gourami, a swordtail molly, a rainbow
fish and another lonely tetra. All quite small but the gourami and the
pictus.
~

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 10:30 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank & pictus cat question



It took my tank (the one cycled by bacteria from another tank) 10 days
to
show a nitrate reading over .5.how long has it been running? How many
fish
are in it?



Don't know anything about pictus, sorry.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 11:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank & pictus cat question



I just set up this 50 gal and put a bio wheel that has been established
from another tank. It has a stock of community fish in it as I assumed
it was cycled but the nitrates are just now reading at .5. That seems
awfully low to me and makes me wonder if this tank is going to go
through a complete cycle.

Also I moved a pictus catfish from the 75 into this tank. He has been
doing "summer saults" for 2 days now. He flips around a piece of
driftwood and rarely goes anywhere else. He might dart to the top for a
flashing second then he's back to the summer saults around this wood.
That can't be normal. I think he might be brain damaged or
something...it's very odd! On top of that, he isn't eating like he
normally does.
Does anyone have any pictus experience where this could be compared to
as abnormal or normal?
It's so bizarre I am thinking of taking some video and posting it.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
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<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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A>
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17091 From: Evita Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death
I have a similar story of sorts. I first set up my 29-30 gal tank last year. I was doing water changes and testing like crazy still almost every fish I got the first 6 months died. Now it has been a year and now that I stopped testing and changing the water and basically let it be (topping it off when needed)for the past few months, I feel my tank finally got established and I have not had a death in over 4 months. I even added two adopted fish two weeks ago, that we in really dirty water and they are doing very well too. How ever I still treat the water I add and from time to time I think it is good to clean the bottom gravel a bit if needed. The man that I bought my 55 gal tank bragged how he never cleaned his tank the whole 10 years he had it. He said he changed his filters every 3-4 months and topped off his tank when needed. But his water was so dirty I couldn't see the fish and the filters were so clogged I doubt they were even working. It took 4 hours to
clean it up before I could put my turtle into it. He basically ignored the care of the tank. I really felt sorry for the 4 fish in it. I separated the 2 goldfish when I got them into their own tank. Now they are in a crystal clean tank. So far so good. Point being I would clean and do water changes if needed. I would never let my tank be so filthy. Right now they are fine. Evita

hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote: --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
>
> i have a confession to make...
>
> i NEVER do water changes, my tanks are heavily planted
> and i just add water when it gets low, systems
> stabilize for me...
=========================
Chris:
As long as it works for you your ok,a long time ago when i was
a meer pup i did the same thing.I had 4-10gal. tanks heavily planted
with Ital. val. and hydro.i kept those tanks going for around 8 yrs.
that way with no problems. Now i cant get away with that method since
i dont have that many plants anymore.For some reason i cant get val.
to do good for me.Back then (early 40s)an accepted practice was to
siphon the tank and let the water settle and then pour it back all the
plants made the difference it was almost like a so called "balanced
aquariun".
PS As the old saying goes "If it aint broke dont fix it"

Regards Hank

> i started this years ago when my angelfish kept dying
> after regular water changes...
>
> once i stopped following "the rules" my angels
> survived and bred...
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17092 From: snerticus Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Algae problem
Hi all, I don't post much in the group, but I do peruse the digests
every day. I seem to have a problem with hair algae in my semi-
planted tank. I only have an aquatic fern and some micro swords in
there, and other algaes have been taken care of with a product from
Marc Wiess called Algae Magic. I have had common nuisance snails in
there, and other freshwater snails, as well as a freshwater converted
Nerite snail. I have used otocinclus, a clown pleco, amano shrimp,
and even ghost shrimp (I know, they don't eat algae very well). None
will eat the hair algae. They eat other types, but not hair. I've
heard that Ameca Splendens will eat hair algae as well as other
undesirable algae, but they are extremely hard to come by.

My tank is a 5 gallon nanocube and currently has a clown pleco, a
tiny yoyo loach and a "dwarf" platy. It's been set up for at least
three months and I do weekly water changes from between 15% to 50%
depending on what I think it needs (no formula, I just eyeball it).
I've tried leaving the lights off for a few days, but that doesn't do
it either - it doesn't even touch the hair algae. I even think it
grows during that time! I was wondering if anyone had any ideas.
Also, if anyone knows where I can get a pair of these Ameca
Splendens, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17093 From: Ash Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207
Most people dont realise that even a small amount of chlorine can kill the
very sensitive nutrient cycling bacteria living in a fishtank.
Suprising.

----- Original Message -----
Message: 3
Date: Tue May 30, 2006 5:02 pm (PDT)
From: "chris topher" humbottom@...
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death


i have a confession to make...

i NEVER do water changes, my tanks are heavily planted
and i just add water when it gets low, systems
stabilize for me...

i started this years ago when my angelfish kept dying
after regular water changes...

once i stopped following "the rules" my angels
survived and bred...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17094 From: Ash Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207
Hmm, well initially they both seemed to be into it, then one started
hiding...
Its been a few days now and they both seemed to have settled down a bit.
This is a good thing as i do not have any way of seperating them (short of
buying a whole new setup!)

----- Original Message -----
Message: 10
Date: Tue May 30, 2006 6:52 pm (PDT)
From: "Raymond Wetzel" sevenspringss@...
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1206


I would not be too hasty to get rid of them. If they are a male and
female, and they accept each other after this "trial" period, it
would be hard to find a more compatable two fish. Their aggression
will disappear and you'll stand an excellent chance of them breeding,
if this is what you are after. Hang on to them for now and keep an
eye on them. If their aggression gets worse (and it may), don't give
up the ship, unless severe damage is being done. If one of the fish
turns and runs however, and no longer has an interest in continuing
this "contest" with the other one pursuing it up into a corner,
that's the time to separate them and think about selling them off if
that's then your choice for even if they are a pair (male and
female), they will not be compatible. Second or third (or
tenth) "trial" periods seldom result in their accepting each other
after an initial failure. You would then need to keep them
separated, although there's still the possibility of them breeding in
this situation when using plastic "egg crate" material as a divider,
but no guarantee. Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17095 From: Ash Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207
Water changes are not a huge concern for me either i must admit. I have
found my fish are more than healthy with monthly water change and
gravel/glass clean. I'm guessing that the large external canister filter i
have is largely responsible for this.
I do like the water to stay clear, and the glass to be crystal clean, this
way i can enjoy my fish. This person you bought your tank off sounds like an
idiot (or just plain lazy!) for not doing the same.

----- Original Message -----
Message: 17
Date: Wed May 31, 2006 9:24 am (PDT)
From: "Evita" evitabug@...
Subject: Re: Water Change and Death


I have a similar story of sorts. I first set up my 29-30 gal tank last
year. I was doing water changes and testing like crazy still almost every
fish I got the first 6 months died. Now it has been a year and now that I
stopped testing and changing the water and basically let it be (topping it
off when needed)for the past few months, I feel my tank finally got
established and I have not had a death in over 4 months. I even added two
adopted fish two weeks ago, that we in really dirty water and they are
doing very well too. How ever I still treat the water I add and from time
to time I think it is good to clean the bottom gravel a bit if needed. The
man that I bought my 55 gal tank bragged how he never cleaned his tank the
whole 10 years he had it. He said he changed his filters every 3-4 months
and topped off his tank when needed. But his water was so dirty I couldn't
see the fish and the filters were so clogged I doubt they were even working.
It took 4 hours to
clean it up before I could put my turtle into it. He basically ignored the
care of the tank. I really felt sorry for the 4 fish in it. I separated
the 2 goldfish when I got them into their own tank. Now they are in a
crystal clean tank. So far so good. Point being I would clean and do water
changes if needed. I would never let my tank be so filthy. Right now they
are fine. Evita
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17096 From: edel Date: 5/31/2006
Subject: RIYUKEN FISH
i was wondering whymy white orange riyuken does not get it full hump
yet is about 9 inches and it has not gotten a full humP its a year old
i feed it hikari oranda goldfish food wich is high in protein and fat

COULD SOME ONE PLZ HELP ME UNDERSTAND WHY MY RIYUKEN HAS NOT FULLY
DEVELOPED ITS HUMP. FIRST PIC IS MY GOLDFISH THE OTHER IS FISH OF THE
INTERNET SO YOU CAN TELL THE DIFFERENCE

-----MY FISH

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i5.
photobucket.com/albums/y189/edgonzo/Picture69.jpg" border="0"
alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>

---INTERNET FISH
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i5.
photobucket.com/albums/y189/edgonzo/1st_6.jpg" border="0"
alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17097 From: Evita Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207
Ash, Actually I didn't get the opinion he was lazy.....but he was really on the slow side. He was actually bragging how long he had the tank and not cleaned it.....while the water was so dirty. I kept telling him it seemed dirty to me. Then when we broke it down, well let me saw he stood by while I told him what to do. He had a cyphoner that he had never used. He has a tank larger than mine but a smaller cyphoner than mine. I brought mine so I decided to use mine. He didn't even know how to break down the tank. I told him how to hold it while the water went into the buckets. He wanted to put the fish in the bucket of water first but I told him I had bags to put them in and we would get them last. Then I could float them in my tank when I got home. He didn't understand anything I was saying. His house was really clean. But his yard was dying. He had tons of gravel in the tank. I told him I wanted to put all the gravel in the buckets. He actually thought I
would be moving the tank with the gravel in it. I told him I didn't want to move it in the tank to prevent the tank from being damaged in the move and also it would be too heavy to move. I took out three over 5 lb buckets of gravel, and two more of other large rocks and plants. He said he was selling so he didn't have to move the tank. Then he said he would probably buy a new tank when he moved. I hope he doesn't. Evita
Ash <ash_nug@...> wrote: Water changes are not a huge concern for me either i must admit. I have
found my fish are more than healthy with monthly water change and
gravel/glass clean. I'm guessing that the large external canister filter i
have is largely responsible for this.
I do like the water to stay clear, and the glass to be crystal clean, this
way i can enjoy my fish. This person you bought your tank off sounds like an
idiot (or just plain lazy!) for not doing the same.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17098 From: snerticus Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
When I do water changes, I do vacuum the gravel, however, the algae on
top sticks to the gravel in clumps and I cannot vacuum it up. The
worst of it is attached to the plants. I've already cleaned up the
plants a few times but it just keeps coming back. Thanks for the
suggestion, tho! I'll have to try doubly hard to get it off the gravel
or just take the clumps out altogether. :)

Snert


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "web_geni_88" <web_geni_88@...>
wrote:
>
> If it's layer of algae on top on the Gravel try using a gravel cleaner
> when you do water changes. I would do a 25 % water change twice a week
> for a couple of weeks, that should clean it up nicley.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17099 From: snerticus Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
As long as it's safe for all invertebrates and plants, I'll have to
give it a try. Thanks!

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, jim <jimrackilleen@...> wrote:
>
> You can go to walmart and get whats called no more algae.. tank
buddies its made by Jungle i tab for 10 GAL. works great eats it off
and looks like alkacelser while doing it.. really does work in a very
short time too! good luck
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17100 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207
I kinda do this, but I do have to do 20% water changes from time to
time, simply because the ph and hardness of the water builds up over
time. I do a lot of gravel vacuuming and viltering, though.

> i NEVER do water changes, my tanks are heavily planted
> and i just add water when it gets low, systems
> stabilize for me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17101 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Algae covered gravel
May sound odd, but since we bought some of those ornamental moss balls
to put in our tanks, the tanks with the moss do not grow that stringy
annoying algae, and the tank without them has it all over.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17102 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Algae problem
A little less light, and try some of those moss or algae balls. They
seem to compete for the same nutrients as the hair algae and make it
difficult to grow. They are very cool, too, rolling around the bottom
of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17103 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Question about filter media
I use sponge filters with activated charcoal and zeolite in them. It
is getting pricey to keep buying replacement packets and media and I
was wondering if there is a way to recharge the old, soiled filters and
filter media?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17104 From: snerticus Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: HELP - planaria
Well, planaria probably don't make the best of pets, but you can get
some at any biological supply store, like Carolina Biological or Wards
Natural Science. I don't know the urls, but you can Google them to
find the websites. That's how I got my aquatic isopods, gammarus
shrimp, copepods, and ostracods. They have some unusual stuff, I even
saw a freshwater sponge, called a spongella, that I wanted to try my
hand at keeping.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <gophert@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where I can buy a , for a pet?
>
> Jessica
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17105 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Plant Care and Death
What's the ph of the water, for one thing. Some plants like it more
acid, some like it more soft. Some like more light, some like less,
and white sand substrate alone isn't enough for them. I use a mix of
laterite, washed peat, and gypsum, mixed with enough water to make it
doughy on the bottom, with any plant root fertilizers tucked here and
there I want. Then I top THAT with any gravel or sand (I kinda like a
mix of a little gravel and sand in drifts) I have to periodically get
rid of some of my plants. Though there are plants that will die back
every few months and go dormant, then come back out great guns.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17106 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Is there any way?
To recharge filter media, like activated carbon and zeolite so I'm not
going through so much of it? I take the packets out of my filters
every month and toss them, but I'm wondering if there isn't a way to
wash them out, recharge them somehow, and re-use them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17107 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Zeolites can generally be recharged and re-used, activated carbon is too
difficult for the home user to recharge.

Why do you feel you need to use the activated carbon and the zeolite?

Activated carbon should only be used when indicated, such as to remove
medication or tannins from the water.

A zeolite is used to change a specific property of water chemistry. If it is
being used for ammonia removal, you should rethink your tank so that the
ammonia is handled naturally by the biological cycle of your tank. If it is
a water softener, you will need to discover what in your tank is causing the
hardness to rise--if your tap water is hard, it would be less expensive to
treat it before it enters your tank, or, better yet, keep fish that do well
with hard water.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 2:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about filter media

I use sponge filters with activated charcoal and zeolite in them. It
is getting pricey to keep buying replacement packets and media and I
was wondering if there is a way to recharge the old, soiled filters and
filter media?







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17108 From: Ash Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208
Oh dear.
Maybe it is a good thing that he didnt attempt to look after anything more
'complicated' than fish, like a dog or a bird!
Perhaps he will be happy with one of those electronic/magnetic fish tanks?
LOL
Ash.

----- Original Message -----
Message: 6
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 3:46 am (PDT)
From: "Evita" evitabug@...
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1207



Ash, Actually I didn't get the opinion he was lazy.....but he was really on
the slow side. He was actually bragging how long he had the tank and not
cleaned it.....while the water was so dirty. I kept telling him it seemed
dirty to me. Then when we broke it down, well let me saw he stood by while
I told him what to do. He had a cyphoner that he had never used. He has a
tank larger than mine but a smaller cyphoner than mine. I brought mine so I
decided to use mine. He didn't even know how to break down the tank. I
told him how to hold it while the water went into the buckets. He wanted to
put the fish in the bucket of water first but I told him I had bags to put
them in and we would get them last. Then I could float them in my tank when
I got home. He didn't understand anything I was saying. His house was
really clean. But his yard was dying. He had tons of gravel in the tank.
I told him I wanted to put all the gravel in the buckets. He actually
thought I
would be moving the tank with the gravel in it. I told him I didn't want
to move it in the tank to prevent the tank from being damaged in the move
and also it would be too heavy to move. I took out three over 5 lb buckets
of gravel, and two more of other large rocks and plants. He said he was
selling so he didn't have to move the tank. Then he said he would probably
buy a new tank when he moved. I hope he doesn't. Evita
Ash <ash_nug@...> wrote: Water changes are not a huge concern
for me either i must admit. I have
found my fish are more than healthy with monthly water change and
gravel/glass clean. I'm guessing that the large external canister filter i
have is largely responsible for this.
I do like the water to stay clear, and the glass to be crystal clean, this
way i can enjoy my fish. This person you bought your tank off sounds like an
idiot (or just plain lazy!) for not doing the same.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17109 From: Ash Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208
Algae balls?
Sounds an interesting concept. I've never heard of them before, how exactly
do they work?

----- Original Message -----
Message: 11
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 11:41 am (PDT)
From: "cynthia brennemann" brennewoman@...
Subject: Re: Algae problem


A little less light, and try some of those moss or algae balls. They
seem to compete for the same nutrients as the hair algae and make it
difficult to grow. They are very cool, too, rolling around the bottom
of the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17110 From: Ash Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208
No im afraid not.
They work basically by absorbing all the bad chemicals out of the water, and
once they are 'full' there is no practical way of cleaning them.
Try doubling the suggested replacement time. That way you wont need to buy
new medium as often, and i think you will find that the chemistry of the
water will remain fairly stable.

----- Original Message -----
Message: 12
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 11:42 am (PDT)
From: "cynthia brennemann" brennewoman@...
Subject: Question about filter media


I use sponge filters with activated charcoal and zeolite in them. It
is getting pricey to keep buying replacement packets and media and I
was wondering if there is a way to recharge the old, soiled filters and
filter media?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17111 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Cynthia, Yes, there are ways to recharge filter media. Taking one at
a time and starting with zeolite, it first has to be established what
type of zeolite you are using. Assuming you are talking about the most
commonly one used in the hobby, that used for softening water (and let
us know if its a different one), as has been already brought out it
would be best all around (for you and the fish) if you maintained only
fish more appreciative to your water. I'm not aware of any cheap way
of pre-treating your water to soften it for aquarium use short of using
a household water softener, which to me is not the most inexpensive way
unless I'm just not thinking of other methods. Getting back to the
first point; barring the possibilities of including only hard water
loving fish in your aquariums, ion-exchange zeolite water softener
pillows can be recharged overnight by placing them in a non-metallic
container of water with 6 tbs of salt per gallon (or more -- it won't
hurt). A fast rinse in the morning to wash any excess off and pop them
back into your filter. Ammonia absorbing zeolite can be recharged in
much the same way, overnight in a strong solution of salt. When using
these zeolites, be aware at all times that you are using them in those
particular tanks. You need to be very careful not to add salt to your
aquarium water in these particular tanks if, for instance, your fish
have caught a disease. The addition of salt to your aquarium will
cause the zeolites to release their take-up of those compounds which
they have just absorbed back into the aquarium water. This can be
especially harmful (or fatal) if you are using ammonia absorbing
zeolite (Ammo-Chips, etc.).

As for activated charcoal, I was not aware that this was still on the
market. Like activated carbon, it is generally understood that
activated charcoal will automatically start releasing those elements
(toxic or not) which it has steadily been absorbing until such time it
has become "saturated". The "saturation" period of these filter media
will vary, depending upon how much disolved matter they are being
exposed to in the given volume of water, also including any new water
added during changes. The average practical life for activated carbon
or charcoal is somewhere around 4 weeks, possibly up to 6 weeks, but
there is no way of knowing when it will start releasing toxic elements
back into the water column. For this reason, it is generally conceded
not to use it as a long-term medium, and to keep its use restricted to
the absorption of used medications, dyes, etc. If you still prefer to
use the activated charcoal and with keeping these points in mind, this
filter medium can also be recharged. Forty to fifty years ago, we used
to recharge activated charcoal by first boiling it and pouring off the
dirty water, and then baking it in an oven at 350o or so for half an
hour. I don't remember exactly when activated carbon first came on the
scene, but I know I was using activated charcoal (and glass wool, LOL)
into the '70's. By the late, '80's activated carbon had come on to the
scene and has been the medium of choice (over a/charcoal) , so it
appears that somewhere in between, it was introduced. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> I use sponge filters with activated charcoal and zeolite in them. It
> is getting pricey to keep buying replacement packets and media and I
> was wondering if there is a way to recharge the old, soiled filters
and
> filter media?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17112 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
> Why do you feel you need to use the activated carbon and the zeolite?
>
> Activated carbon should only be used when indicated, such as to remove
> medication or tannins from the water.

Well, I use peat to help acidify the water, which releases tannins in
the water, so it does absorb that. As to why I use carbon, it comes in
the filter packets I buy from the store, is all. I added zeolite when
we started having guppy overload and the ammonia levels would get out
of hand by the end of every week. We've since gotten rid of most of
the guppies, but I've just gotten used to using it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17113 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Thank you...that was very helpful and informative. I will give it a
try and see if it is worth the extra effort. and I misspoke, it wasn't
activated charcoal, but carbon.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17114 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208
They are just balls of naturally occuring algae that grow in
clusters...Unless my plecostamus or snails have been eating divots in
them, they grow naturally into perfectly round balls. They aren't a
gimmick, just a type of algae that is more ornamental than the hair
algae. :P

> Algae balls?
> Sounds an interesting concept. I've never heard of them before, how
exactly
> do they work?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17115 From: Evita Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208
Ash, The thing that got me was he had the tank 10 years sitting by the door-way and didn't know how to take it apart. He said he would probably buy a bigger one when he moved too. If he had the money he would be better off going to one of those places I have heard of that rents the tanks and services them. Have you ever heard of those? Like they put up tanks in business offices and then take care of them. Evita

Ash <ash_nug@...> wrote: Oh dear.
Maybe it is a good thing that he didnt attempt to look after anything more
'complicated' than fish, like a dog or a bird!
Perhaps he will be happy with one of those electronic/magnetic fish tanks?
LOL
Ash.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17116 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Experiment
I've been breeding bettas for about a year, now, and this time I
decided to leave the males in with the babies. I was told by a few
breeders it would not work as after the three day period where the male
is putting the babies back into the bubble nest, he starts eating
them. But I've noticed that the male will suck up the babies in his
mouth, clean them, and then spit them, unharmed, into an area where
there is more to eat. They seem to thrive. I'm thinking he might eat
a few of the malformed ones, or sick ones, but so far, the majority of
his mouthing seems to be temporary.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17117 From: Ash Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1209
Oh i see.
Well i dont have any plants in my tank at all for a good reason. My fish
massacre them within a few days. So i guess ill have to give the algae balls
a miss aswell :P

----- Original Message -----
Message: 8
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 7:46 am (PDT)
From: "cynthia brennemann" brennewoman@...
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208


They are just balls of naturally occuring algae that grow in
clusters...Unless my plecostamus or snails have been eating divots in
them, they grow naturally into perfectly round balls. They aren't a
gimmick, just a type of algae that is more ornamental than the hair
algae. :P

> Algae balls?
> Sounds an interesting concept. I've never heard of them before, how
exactly
> do they work?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17118 From: Ash Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1209
Lol, that is strange. It is a wonder the fish were alive at all.
I'm with you in hoping he doesnt plan to buy a bigger tank.
I dont think he should rent one either !

----- Original Message -----
Message: 9
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 8:02 am (PDT)
From: "Evita" evitabug@...
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1208


Ash, The thing that got me was he had the tank 10 years sitting by the
door-way and didn't know how to take it apart. He said he would probably
buy a bigger one when he moved too. If he had the money he would be better
off going to one of those places I have heard of that rents the tanks and
services them. Have you ever heard of those? Like they put up tanks in
business offices and then take care of them. Evita

Ash <ash_nug@...> wrote: Oh dear.
Maybe it is a good thing that he didnt attempt to look after anything more
'complicated' than fish, like a dog or a bird!
Perhaps he will be happy with one of those electronic/magnetic fish tanks?
LOL
Ash.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17119 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/2/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Cynthia,

Well, it looks like your guppies overran your biological processes. This
really should not happen, except that your tank may have been way
overstocked. Just keep an eye on your stocking level and do away with the
zeolite. It is not doing your biological filter any good. If there is an
ammonia problem after you remove the zeolite, your tank may need to be
cycled again. If this is the case, use something like Amquel to control the
ammonia. Amquel will make the ammonia non-toxic to your critters but it does
not inhibit the bacteria that need to be developed as part of your
biological filtration.

Tannins can be a visual problem. You will need to decide how much coloration
you can put up with in the water. The only fish you mention are the guppies,
which do better in harder water, as is the case with many livebearers. I
can't intelligently comment on whether you should be softening the water in
this manner without knowing what else you may have for fish. If it is
necessary to soften the water, there are products made for that that will
not color the water, and they can be recharged for a time. It would be best
to do this in a separate container, not in the tank.

A better description of your setup would help. What size is the tank, what
fish are you keeping, what size are they. Then we can give you advice based
on what you have, and not just theoretical discussions.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 10:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Question about filter media


> Why do you feel you need to use the activated carbon and the zeolite?
>
> Activated carbon should only be used when indicated, such as to remove
> medication or tannins from the water.

Well, I use peat to help acidify the water, which releases tannins in
the water, so it does absorb that. As to why I use carbon, it comes in
the filter packets I buy from the store, is all. I added zeolite when
we started having guppy overload and the ammonia levels would get out
of hand by the end of every week. We've since gotten rid of most of
the guppies, but I've just gotten used to using it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17120 From: Cory Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: New to your group - betta/white ring?
I'm new to your group and am having a problem with 2 bettas. They are in a 10 gallon aquarium and are
separated by a divider in the middle. One of them has developed a white ring around one eye and it is
getting very "puffy". The other one has the white ring, but it is much smaller. Can anyone tell me what
this might be and what, if anything, I can do to save my bettas. They are beautiful, red and blue. The one
with the larger eye is very lethargic, also. Thanks in advance for any/all information. Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17121 From: obrendie Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: How hot can the tank get ?
I just set up a 65 gallon "fish only" salt water but I have noticed that
2 days in a row the tank is at 84. I have been told that is too hot and
that is ok but really which one is it. The fish look good and are still
eating but really how hot is too hot. I have 4 triggers, butterfly, dog
face puffer, 2 tangs and a really cute guy that I'm not sure what he
is. As you can tell I am new at this so hopefully someone out there can
straighten me out on this. Do I need to get a chiller for a fish only
tank ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17122 From: rhayneslcsw Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: New Member with a white worm Question
I have an aquarium with an Oscar fish. I have noticed that there are
little white worm looking things floating around in the tank and
sticking to the sides. Does anyone know what this might be??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17123 From: Evita Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1209
He had a toy Poddle too. Evita

Ash <ash_nug@...> wrote: Lol, that is strange. It is a wonder the fish were alive at all.
I'm with you in hoping he doesnt plan to buy a bigger tank.
I dont think he should rent one either !


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17124 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Bigger Tank
Hi,

I'm new to this group. My experience with Fish is mostly experimental. I currently have a 3" long Oscar that I am moving to a bigger tank and am not sure about how to prepare the new tank for transfer. How long do you suggest cycvling water??


Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17125 From: rjtroon Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Clown Loaches
I recently purchased two mature clown loaches from a private party.
They are a few years old, approximately 5-6 inches long and 2-3 inches
high.

They have been in my 125 gallon tank for a week and a half now. Both
of them wedged themselves into a small cave upon entering the tank.
One comes out on rare occasions at night only, but the other one has
never come out except the two times I forced him out of the cave (by
removing it for a few minutes) to be sure he's still alive.

I know they take time to adapt, and older ones probably take more time
than young ones. But how long is long enough? I don't know if they
are eating at all. Should I remove the caves in the tank? I'm afraid
of stressing them out, too.

How should I deal with this dilemma?

RJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17126 From: rjtroon Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Red Line Shark
I've been thinking about adding a red-line shark to my 125 gallon
tank. They're really expensive ($40 locally), but beautiful.

I have a red-finned shark in the tank already who makes it known he is
the boss of the tank (he's probably about 4" long). Is he likely to
leave the red-line alone or will he torture it to its death?

RJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17127 From: steve Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Red Line Shark
i found redline sharks at pet supplies plus for 16 dollars they were
only about an inch and a half or 2 inches long but they gave me 7 day
warranty 1 died before i got it home and other died about 3 or 4 days
later i would suggest if there is a pet supplies plus around you go
there and try and get 1 first i have a rainbow shark in my tank not
sure if he was the 1 that killed him or not and then got a 3rd 1 from
a shop that was close to my house and he also only made it a couple
days this was a new tank setup with a few tetras in it so i don t know
maybe the tank needed to stablize more but i don t think i am gonna
get another 1 anytime soon or until i can afford a larger 1 but at
least i got the money back for 2 of them


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "rjtroon" <rjtroon@...> wrote:
>
> I've been thinking about adding a red-line shark to my 125 gallon
> tank. They're really expensive ($40 locally), but beautiful.
>
> I have a red-finned shark in the tank already who makes it known he
is
> the boss of the tank (he's probably about 4" long). Is he likely to
> leave the red-line alone or will he torture it to its death?
>
> RJ
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17128 From: steve Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Clown Loaches
while i am not an expert i had a pakastine loach with the same
problem i have found out that the PH is not correct and that is why
they don t come out when PH isn t perfect for them or what they r
use to try changing the PH up or down whichever is needed maybe that
will work


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "rjtroon" <rjtroon@...> wrote:
>
> I recently purchased two mature clown loaches from a private
party.
> They are a few years old, approximately 5-6 inches long and 2-3
inches
> high.
>
> They have been in my 125 gallon tank for a week and a half now.
Both
> of them wedged themselves into a small cave upon entering the
tank.
> One comes out on rare occasions at night only, but the other one
has
> never come out except the two times I forced him out of the cave
(by
> removing it for a few minutes) to be sure he's still alive.
>
> I know they take time to adapt, and older ones probably take more
time
> than young ones. But how long is long enough? I don't know if
they
> are eating at all. Should I remove the caves in the tank? I'm
afraid
> of stressing them out, too.
>
> How should I deal with this dilemma?
>
> RJ
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17129 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: New to your group - betta/white ring?
Sounds like popeye...I use maracyn2 for it if and when it shows up.
had an awful problem with it a few years back, but not lately
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17130 From: wendie Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Clown Loaches
They sound stressed. What else is in the tank? You might want to get a
couple
of smaller ones to add to the group
Wendie
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of rjtroon
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 11:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Clown Loaches


I recently purchased two mature clown loaches from a private party.
They are a few years old, approximately 5-6 inches long and 2-3 inches
high.

They have been in my 125 gallon tank for a week and a half now. Both
of them wedged themselves into a small cave upon entering the tank.
One comes out on rare occasions at night only, but the other one has
never come out except the two times I forced him out of the cave (by
removing it for a few minutes) to be sure he's still alive.

I know they take time to adapt, and older ones probably take more time
than young ones. But how long is long enough? I don't know if they
are eating at all. Should I remove the caves in the tank? I'm afraid
of stressing them out, too.

How should I deal with this dilemma?

RJ






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17131 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
The guppies definately overran the biological process...we got them
first for the kids, because they were pretty. And ever since, we
have never been able to get rid of them. When we don't pay attention
they completely overtake the tank. We did have a big old angelfish
that ate the baby guppies as soon as they were born and thus kept
them thinned to manageable levels, but when my daughter bought a
dwarf puffer, it killed the angel, and the guppies began breeding
uncontrolably. We currently have neon, black neon, and gold tetras,
two young angelfish, two long tailed daino's, two female bettas, a
couple of clousn loaches, an uncountable hoard of guppies we want rid
of but seem to escape our thinning processes, a large plceo, and a
bunch of cories. Then we have two betta breeding tanks that we put
the male bettas in and take the females to them from time to time.
IT usually works fine for us, loads of plants in all three tanks.
The large community tank is a 65 gallon tank. The two betta breeding
tanks are arund 30 gallons each. We honestly haven't had any problem
with diseases or fish tolerance (other than guppy overpopulation and
the occasional fish we loose when we forget to put the lid down and a
cat goes fishing), for the last two years since we started our
current setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17132 From: wendie Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Bigger Tank
I just moved a bunch of fish over to two new tanks that I had set up two
days before the move.
I do the following....

Run two filters on the old tank and then switch one over to the new tank
(at least three weeks).
Take all the caves, rocks, and plants I can switch to the new tank
Take water from the old tank.
Take some of the gravel from the old tank to seed with
I then use Bio Spira with prime on stand by.

The two tanks have been running just a day or so over two weeks and the
readings taken this
morning are.... 0 - 0 - 10

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Regina Haynes
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 8:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bigger Tank


Hi,

I'm new to this group. My experience with Fish is mostly experimental.
I currently have a 3" long Oscar that I am moving to a bigger tank and am
not sure about how to prepare the new tank for transfer. How long do you
suggest cycvling water??


Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17133 From: llrdhsktr Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Old starting anew
My last fish passed away two weeks ago in a tank that has been running
for over 6 years. I want to start with new critters, but am wondering
if the tank has been running with no animals in it-other than algae-
for over two weeks, that the biological filter may have diminished or
died. The light has been turned off all this time, but all filters-
fluval 204, eclipse biowheel, airstone and UV sterilizer have running
24/7. It was originally a cold water tank with goldfish, but I have
placed a heater in it to prepare it for tropicals. 25 gallon tall
tank, gravel cleaned and 50% water changed out after the last fish
passed on, bacteria added regular. pH is 7.0, nitrate is virtually
zero, but haven't tested for nitrite yet. Don't know water hardness; I
live in the San Francisco area.

If I needed to cycle this tank over again without fish, how much
ammonia should I add to start off with?

Lester
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17134 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: New to your group - betta/white ring?
Thanks.....is this a pet store product or do I need to go somewhere else?
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17135 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Clown Loaches
Clowns are usually not that shy. You need to make them feel at home and
forcing one out of its hiding cave has just done opposite to it.



Keep the tank in darkness for a couple of days and add some pond snails to
the tank as clown food as this will help them over come their fear of
venturing out. Don’t use Malaysian trumpet snails as on a few occasions I
have seen that clowns have some difficulty in eradicating them.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rjtroon
Sent: 03 June 2006 17:41
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Clown Loaches



I recently purchased two mature clown loaches from a private party.
They are a few years old, approximately 5-6 inches long and 2-3 inches
high.

They have been in my 125 gallon tank for a week and a half now. Both
of them wedged themselves into a small cave upon entering the tank.
One comes out on rare occasions at night only, but the other one has
never come out except the two times I forced him out of the cave (by
removing it for a few minutes) to be sure he's still alive.

I know they take time to adapt, and older ones probably take more time
than young ones. But how long is long enough? I don't know if they
are eating at all. Should I remove the caves in the tank? I'm afraid
of stressing them out, too.

How should I deal with this dilemma?

RJ






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17136 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 6/3/2006
Subject: Re: Red Line Shark
Red line barbs are I think slightly more delicate then regular barbs.. they
were in the CITES list of threatened species once but have recovered from
that situation since.

I doubt that a red tailed shark will harass any other fish (except the likes
of flying foxes and other cousins) to the level that harms the fish. Yes,
they do like to pose their dominance but its not too much aggression in most
cases. If you get 4-5 of the red line barbs then they will be happier and
also will not be stressed if the shark decides to chase them… they really do
love to be in large groups and are not happy in smaller numbers.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rjtroon
Sent: 03 June 2006 17:44
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Red Line Shark



I've been thinking about adding a red-line shark to my 125 gallon
tank. They're really expensive ($40 locally), but beautiful.

I have a red-finned shark in the tank already who makes it known he is
the boss of the tank (he's probably about 4" long). Is he likely to
leave the red-line alone or will he torture it to its death?

RJ






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17137 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: New to your group - betta/white ring?
Cory,

You do not provide us with enough information to make a reliable diagnosis.
First thing I would look at right now is water quality. What is your ammonia
reading, nitrite? What pH? What temperature are you keeping the bettas at?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Cory
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 2:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to your group - betta/white ring?

I'm new to your group and am having a problem with 2 bettas. They are in a
10 gallon aquarium and are
separated by a divider in the middle. One of them has developed a white
ring around one eye and it is
getting very "puffy". The other one has the white ring, but it is much
smaller. Can anyone tell me what
this might be and what, if anything, I can do to save my bettas. They are
beautiful, red and blue. The one
with the larger eye is very lethargic, also. Thanks in advance for any/all
information. Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17138 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: How hot can the tank get ?
I do not do marines, so I am not aware of the temperature range of the
fishes you list. There are a couple of things you do not mention as for the
temperature of your tank. Most important at this time of the year, and
throughout the summer is the room temperature. Is your room temperature at
84^o or above? If not, then you need to lower the control on the thermostat
on your heater to reach a more suitable temperature for your fish, whatever
that may be. If the room is cooler than the tank, and lowering the
thermostat control on your heater does not work, look for a new heater. On a
tank that size, I'd suggest two heaters with a total wattage equivalent to
what you need to maintain the temperature of the tank dependent on the room
temperature (the number of degrees you need to keep the water above the
normal room temperature is an important factor in sizing heaters) and the
size of your tank. Assuming normal room temperature and a few degrees above
room temperature, you are probably looking for a total of 100-200 watts.

The use of two heaters will help prevent an over heating of the tank should
one malfunction (thermostat stuck in a closed position) and help maintain a
temperature should one fail stuck in an open position.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of obrendie
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 12:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How hot can the tank get ?

I just set up a 65 gallon "fish only" salt water but I have noticed that
2 days in a row the tank is at 84. I have been told that is too hot and
that is ok but really which one is it. The fish look good and are still
eating but really how hot is too hot. I have 4 triggers, butterfly, dog
face puffer, 2 tangs and a really cute guy that I'm not sure what he
is. As you can tell I am new at this so hopefully someone out there can
straighten me out on this. Do I need to get a chiller for a fish only
tank ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17139 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: New Member with a white worm Question
Not much of a description, but the could be planaria. There are a few fish
that will eat them. Generally, planaria are a sign of overfeeding of your
fish and/or poor tank maintenance, though they may also arrive in some live
foods.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rhayneslcsw
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 8:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Member with a white worm Question

I have an aquarium with an Oscar fish. I have noticed that there are
little white worm looking things floating around in the tank and
sticking to the sides. Does anyone know what this might be??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17140 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
The guppy is also sometimes called the millions fish. Wanna guess why? <g>.

Once you get some growth on those young angels, you'll probably have a
built-in guppy control patrol. Meanwhile you'll just need to keep scooping.
Maybe you have a friend who can use them as feeders--get them to come over
and do the scooping for you.

Sounds like you have a pretty nice setup going there.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 1:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Question about filter media

The guppies definately overran the biological process...we got them
first for the kids, because they were pretty. And ever since, we
have never been able to get rid of them. When we don't pay attention
they completely overtake the tank. We did have a big old angelfish
that ate the baby guppies as soon as they were born and thus kept
them thinned to manageable levels, but when my daughter bought a
dwarf puffer, it killed the angel, and the guppies began breeding
uncontrolably. We currently have neon, black neon, and gold tetras,
two young angelfish, two long tailed daino's, two female bettas, a
couple of clousn loaches, an uncountable hoard of guppies we want rid
of but seem to escape our thinning processes, a large plceo, and a
bunch of cories. Then we have two betta breeding tanks that we put
the male bettas in and take the females to them from time to time.
IT usually works fine for us, loads of plants in all three tanks.
The large community tank is a 65 gallon tank. The two betta breeding
tanks are arund 30 gallons each. We honestly haven't had any problem
with diseases or fish tolerance (other than guppy overpopulation and
the occasional fish we loose when we forget to put the lid down and a
cat goes fishing), for the last two years since we started our
current setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17141 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: Old starting anew
You will probably be alright to start adding fish to your tank. What happens
is when a food source for the bacteria diminishes or disappears, a certain
number will go into a hibernation state and some will die off. If you just
add a few fish, the bacteria will come out of hibernation, and the cycle
will start anew. You might have a mini-cycle as this happens, but it should
not affect the fish, unless you choose fish that are highly susceptible to
nitrogenous wastes.

The only problem with this, other than the aforementioned fish, is that
additional fish will need to be quarantined prior to moving them to their
new home to prevent disease from being introduced.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of llrdhsktr
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 3:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Old starting anew

My last fish passed away two weeks ago in a tank that has been running
for over 6 years. I want to start with new critters, but am wondering
if the tank has been running with no animals in it-other than algae-
for over two weeks, that the biological filter may have diminished or
died. The light has been turned off all this time, but all filters-
fluval 204, eclipse biowheel, airstone and UV sterilizer have running
24/7. It was originally a cold water tank with goldfish, but I have
placed a heater in it to prepare it for tropicals. 25 gallon tall
tank, gravel cleaned and 50% water changed out after the last fish
passed on, bacteria added regular. pH is 7.0, nitrate is virtually
zero, but haven't tested for nitrite yet. Don't know water hardness; I
live in the San Francisco area.

If I needed to cycle this tank over again without fish, how much
ammonia should I add to start off with?

Lester
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17142 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: Red Line Shark
i have a red tailed shark and they are very teratorial with other sharks and
loaches


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17143 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: New Member with a white worm Question
The fish store told me it was from overfeeding. I got rid of them however. They were just tiny little worms that just showed up. There were about 1/4 inch long and looked like little white strings. Nothing else to say about them.

Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17144 From: snerticus Date: 6/4/2006
Subject: Re: New Member with a white worm Question
There are two possibilities what these "worms" might be. Without
actually looking at them, we can only guess. However the discription
of "little strings" dismisses the planaria theory. I have both
planaria and "little strings" white worms in my tanks. Both are
actually beneficial and will not harm the fish or inverts in the
tanks. They will, however get out of hand when the water quality
starts to decline. The planaria feed on bacteria, thus when the
water
quality gets bad and bacteria bloom, so do the planaria. They are
not
fish parasites. The other worm, which I have yet to identify
scientifically, I found comes in with plants and probably fish water
where plants have been. I think the worms may eat bacteria too, as
they are very prevalent in my "pod tank" (where I have aquatic
isopods,
amphipods {or scuds, gammarus}, copepods, and ostracods) from what I
understand, my copepods prey on planaria, which is probably why I
have
a ton of copepods and very little planaria. On the other hand, the
white worms are all over, and like to hang out at times near the
water's surface attached to the tank wall. They are usually less
than
1/4 inch long, but I found one wiggling in mid-water once that was
about an inch. That was when I saw that it was segmented! I know
that
smaller fish enjoy these worms, and since they usually hang out near
plants (my "pod tank" has lots of floating plants) they are probably
scavengers on dead plant material. I heard that they come in on
duckweed, and I do indeed have some small clumps of duckweed that I
am
unsure where they came from. However, I have bought plants at a LFS
before that were not duckweed and these worms were attached to the
roots. At first I was suspicious and concerned, but further research
on the internet
and my own experience has shown that they are not a threat.

Keep in mind there are different kinds of worms and planaria that ARE
parasitic threats, therefore the critters need to be positively
identified to be
sure. But what you describe sounds like what I've talked about.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Regina Haynes <rhayneslcsw@...>
wrote:
>
> The fish store told me it was from overfeeding. I got rid of them
however. They were just tiny little worms that just showed up.
There
were about 1/4 inch long and looked like little white strings.
Nothing
else to say about them.
>
> Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17145 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
Hehe..yeah, we figured that out. Our earliest fish disaster with our
first tank occurred because we had gotten guppies, platies, and
endlers livebearers. Then, when we had to leave town for a couple of
months and came back, the tank was nearly thick with fish!

I'm hoping those angelfish will help out with things...the larger one
seems to be trying already. We have been (hangs head, ashamed)
scooping them out and putting them in the water for the raccoons
outside.

> The guppy is also sometimes called the millions fish. Wanna guess
why? <g>.
>
> Once you get some growth on those young angels, you'll probably
have a
> built-in guppy control patrol. Meanwhile you'll just need to keep
scooping.
> Maybe you have a friend who can use them as feeders--get them to
come over
> and do the scooping for you.
>
> Sounds like you have a pretty nice setup going there.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17146 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Well, the male in the first batch I saw suck a couple of babies into
his mouth, and expell only the larger one. The smaller one he
apparantly swallowed. I went to check my sources and they said he
would only eat the malformed or weak babies...so I'm biting my lip and
biding my time.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17147 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: New to your group - betta/white ring?
I got the maracyn2.....the popeye is going away, but he is still rather lethargic.....he's staying on the bottom a lot......my water temp and everything is where it should be and he's coming up and eating.....just not as active as he was. Anyway, thanks for the tip on the maracyn.......Cory
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17148 From: hank voss Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>

Hi:
By this weekend i think you will find very few young left.Bettas
are not selective about what fry they eat once they become free
swimming
Lots of luck Hank

=====================


> Well, the male in the first batch I saw suck a couple of babies into
> his mouth, and expell only the larger one. The smaller one he
> apparantly swallowed. I went to check my sources and they said he
> would only eat the malformed or weak babies...so I'm biting my lip
and
> biding my time.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17149 From: Evita Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: Question about filter media
I have guppies and I love the fact they are live bearers. I used to fish out the babies and put them in a nursery tank. But now I let the natural way go. Some get eatten and the best grow too big to eat. I have had my tank a long time and it isn't full. I guess you had several different ones breeding all at the same time. Evita

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: Hehe..yeah, we figured that out. Our earliest fish disaster with our
first tank occurred because we had gotten guppies, platies, and
endlers livebearers. Then, when we had to leave town for a couple of
months and came back, the tank was nearly thick with fish!

I'm hoping those angelfish will help out with things...the larger one
seems to be trying already. We have been (hangs head, ashamed)
scooping them out and putting them in the water for the raccoons
outside.

> The guppy is also sometimes called the millions fish. Wanna guess
why? <g>.
>
> Once you get some growth on those young angels, you'll probably
have a
> built-in guppy control patrol. Meanwhile you'll just need to keep
scooping.
> Maybe you have a friend who can use them as feeders--get them to
come over
> and do the scooping for you.
>
> Sounds like you have a pretty nice setup going there.
>





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17150 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Thanks. I guess we'll see :)


> Hi:
> By this weekend i think you will find very few young left.Bettas
> are not selective about what fry they eat once they become free
> swimming
> Lots of luck Hank
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17151 From: Sandra Date: 6/5/2006
Subject: new fish group
hello everyone,
There is a new group for those who love gouramis at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/The-Gourami_Fish_Fans . Would like to
have people on the group who wish to post and share photos and
information with the group. Thanks.
Sandra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17152 From: Sandra Date: 6/6/2006
Subject: new list your groups group
There is a new group that just started for those who wish to come and
promote their groups, or groups that they are on,
at,http://groups.yahoo.com/group/List_Your_Groups_Here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17153 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/6/2006
Subject: Thinking about live plants
I am tossing around the idea of adding live plants to one of my tanks
(which will house angels and discus.)
I know that there is a lot involved and I absolutely can not buy anymore
equipment or spend much more time on maintenance.
Is this something I should even be thinking about or should I just stick
with the sad plastic plants?
The last time I tried this (though I didn't try very hard), they died
and left a huge, hard to clean mess. They were the floating type.
Any opinions? Is it possible to keep live plants without the co2 and
special lighting?

Thanks,
Leslie and a bunch of fish


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17154 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 6/6/2006
Subject: Re: Thinking about live plants
Had live plants in with my young discus, they seemed (K) with them but they just weren't as happy as in a tank without.

You may run into a problem with the angels and discus, the angels are more ravinous eaters persay than discus. The discus don't fall under the 3-5 minute food comsumption rule give them a 1/2 hour to savor their food, they eat extremely slow.

Plants went with ones not requiring special lighting (happy with natural light) or any extra CO2 injection, would be content with the filteration that was already on the tank. Do have java moss in for the killis and paradise fish which those tanks have little mini sponge filters (DIY project) which it does just fine. Not a plant expert LOL but did get a list from one of the local club members that would work for the lighting I have available.

Shannon


Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
I am tossing around the idea of adding live plants to one of my tanks
(which will house angels and discus.)
I know that there is a lot involved and I absolutely can not buy anymore
equipment or spend much more time on maintenance.
Is this something I should even be thinking about or should I just stick
with the sad plastic plants?
The last time I tried this (though I didn't try very hard), they died
and left a huge, hard to clean mess. They were the floating type.
Any opinions? Is it possible to keep live plants without the co2 and
special lighting?

Thanks,
Leslie and a bunch of fish

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17155 From: hank voss Date: 6/6/2006
Subject: Re: Thinking about live plants
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I am tossing around the idea of adding live plants to one of my
tanks
> (which will house angels and discus.)
> I know that there is a lot involved and I absolutely can not buy
anymore
> equipment or spend much more time on maintenance.
> Is this something I should even be thinking about or should I just
stick
> with the sad plastic plants?

Leslie:
You do not need any special equip. to raise plants.The main
thing is light the fish will make the fertilizer. The type of
lighting ca be a pain and also the ammount of light. .My personal
choice is incandescant though those fixtures are rather scarce
now.With flourescent lights you will have to get the right bulbs for
the types of plants you intend to keep.It would pay you to talk to
someone in your area who has a planted tank. Also if your area has
soft water you can have a problem also most plants like some mineral
content in the water.Ive found that all plants grow under
incandescant but all certain flourescent tubes,Growlux which are for
plants usually end up growing algae.Your best bet is to talk to
someone in your area and youll have a better chanceof sucess.
Hank
PS
Like you said you can always fall back on plastic some of them
look pretty decent now.






> The last time I tried this (though I didn't try very hard), they
died
> and left a huge, hard to clean mess. They were the floating type.
> Any opinions? Is it possible to keep live plants without the co2
and
> special lighting?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie and a bunch of fish
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17156 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: Thinking about live plants
I've never used special lighting or co2 to keep my plants alive. The
substrate is one of the big things where live plants are
concerned...and adding substrate after the fact is problematic.

Also, the more plants you have, the easier it is to keep them alive, as
when you put in a couple of plants, the fish tend to pick at them till
they die. With a lot of plants, a few picks per plant won't kill them.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17157 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Well, still loads of baby bettas swimming around. They seem to be
getting big so FAST! The daddy fish tends to eat the smallest, weakest
of the bunch, but for the most part contents himself with bloodworms
and squished snails. He is still very protective about the
babies...coming up and nipping on my fingers when I go to squish
snails...LOL Feisty. I can see the difference in light bodied and
dark bodied babies already. Wow they grow fast!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17158 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: can I add a flowerhorn?
I have a 150 gallon with 3 Parrots, 1 Firemouth, 1 white Severum, 1
Convict, 1 Jewel, 1 Rainbow Shark and 1 Pleco.
Is it safe to add a flowerhorn with this population? I'm thinking of
adding a fish in around the 4" range.
Would love some advice and pros and cons
thanks
Magdalena
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17159 From: supamii Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Bloody Cyano - Explanation?
Well I'm sure its not difficult to agree we all dread the
cyanobacteria that grows along-side, over, and under literally
everything in the tank. The cyano is not really something that annoys
me - but as an indicator of poor water quality its a bit of a concern.

I've been trying to maintain my water changes and other things.. blah
blah.. and finally I decided to get one of those japanese MOSS BALLS.

I basically ripped the moss ball open and spreaded it out as a big
clump. I was going to just make 2 or 3 moss balls out of it.

It just so happens that I put it over a large sheet of cyano and
within 20 or so minutes the cynao around the area is gone- and whats
even more bizzare is that the edges of the sheet seem to be turning
into a very lush crimson red pigment.

To describe whats happening, it looks like the cyano is BLEEDING - or
something to that effect.

Can anyone give me an explanation or thoughts of what is going on
here? I find this very facinating.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17160 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: can I add a flowerhorn?
Magdalena.

Skip the flower horn. It will get BIG and eventually beat up or eat the other fish. Very aggressive fish.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: eandtuta1924 <eandtuta1924@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 16:09:48 -0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] can I add a flowerhorn?


I have a 150 gallon with 3 Parrots, 1 Firemouth, 1 white Severum, 1
Convict, 1 Jewel, 1 Rainbow Shark and 1 Pleco.
Is it safe to add a flowerhorn with this population? I'm thinking of
adding a fish in around the 4" range.
Would love some advice and pros and cons
thanks
Magdalena



________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17161 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody Cyano - Explanation?
Odd...distinctly odd. hope you haven't killed your moss balls. I've
never had a problem with the cyanobacteria in my tanks, but I've got
those moss balls in all the tanks, too. It's possible that you are
seeing phytoremediation at its finest, with the moss balls absorbing
it and turning it into something else.

> Well I'm sure its not difficult to agree we all dread the
> cyanobacteria that grows along-side, over, and under literally
> everything in the tank. The cyano is not really something that
annoys
> me - but as an indicator of poor water quality its a bit of a
concern.
>
> I've been trying to maintain my water changes and other things..
blah
> blah.. and finally I decided to get one of those japanese MOSS
BALLS.
>
> I basically ripped the moss ball open and spreaded it out as a big
> clump. I was going to just make 2 or 3 moss balls out of it.
>
> It just so happens that I put it over a large sheet of cyano and
> within 20 or so minutes the cynao around the area is gone- and whats
> even more bizzare is that the edges of the sheet seem to be turning
> into a very lush crimson red pigment.
>
> To describe whats happening, it looks like the cyano is BLEEDING -
or
> something to that effect.
>
> Can anyone give me an explanation or thoughts of what is going on
> here? I find this very facinating.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17162 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: can I add a flowerhorn?
They're pretty agressive aren't they? Eat anything that can fit in
their mouths? I'd really think twice about that choice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17163 From: magdalena jones Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: can I add a flowerhorn?
ops, thanks for that response. I'll think of something else to add then..
magdalena

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
They're pretty agressive aren't they? Eat anything that can fit in
their mouths? I'd really think twice about that choice





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17164 From: magdalena jones Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: can I add a flowerhorn?
he he that was quick and easy... I'll think of something else to add instead.
thanks for your answer
Magdalena

Deenerz@... wrote:
Magdalena.

Skip the flower horn. It will get BIG and eventually beat up or eat the other fish. Very aggressive fish.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: eandtuta1924 <eandtuta1924@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 16:09:48 -0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] can I add a flowerhorn?

I have a 150 gallon with 3 Parrots, 1 Firemouth, 1 white Severum, 1
Convict, 1 Jewel, 1 Rainbow Shark and 1 Pleco.
Is it safe to add a flowerhorn with this population? I'm thinking of
adding a fish in around the 4" range.
Would love some advice and pros and cons
thanks
Magdalena

__________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17165 From: supamii Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody Cyano - Explanation?
Cynthia,

I think you would also be interested in photos of what I deem a
phenomenon.

http://sdcc21.ucsd.edu/~sapham/moss/

The images are 0.jpg.. etc.

You will notice that the sheet of cyano is almost being pulled into
the moss ball.

=) I've got a super phytoremediative thing going on! I also think
that perhaps all of this has to take into account the that moss balls
are algae - not the ordinary plant like java ferns or things of that sort.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Odd...distinctly odd. hope you haven't killed your moss balls. I've
> never had a problem with the cyanobacteria in my tanks, but I've got
> those moss balls in all the tanks, too. It's possible that you are
> seeing phytoremediation at its finest, with the moss balls absorbing
> it and turning it into something else.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17166 From: lilmicnbac Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Lobster Art- speaks to me!
Hello all... While I was back home, I ran into a co-director of an art
gallery. She is in the prepublicity stages of promoting Neil Young's
artist, James Mazzeo. They are in the middle of an amazing project
called The United States Series. You can check it out at the website

www.thepeoplesartgallery.com

Anyways, James Mazzeo did three lobster paintings: Still-Life With
Lobster Painting (just click on Artist Proof #5 and you will see it),
Big Lobster & Lobster (Artist Proof #4). The prints are available in
editions of 36, all signed titled and numbered by James Mazzeo. Each
print even has its own registry number! I just bought all three
lobster paintings, and they are amazing! Don't know how many are left.
I thought people in this group might be interested in checking them out!

From one aquatic lover to another,
Jess
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17167 From: Judy R Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: Re: Thinking about live plants
Hi Leslie,

Being one who has ventured keeping Discus and Angelfish; I suggest you not put the two species in the same tank. There are parasites that Angelfish can tolerate that Discus cannot. Also, being to the delicate nature (of sorts) of Discus, I would suggest a bare bottom tank for them...no frills. I had an undergravel filter and plastic plants and it was nothing but a headache. It's just a breeding ground for bacteria. If anything, perhaps you can learn from my BIG mistake. I am happy to report that I only lost two of my precious Discus and managed to nurse my others back to health. If you would like more information on Discus Care, etc. go to www.simplydiscus.com There is a wealth of information there! Enjoy your tanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17168 From: sean bond madrazo Date: 6/8/2006
Subject: hello all
Just here to promote my grp which aims to advertise our store in
quezon ave corner edsa. We cater to hobbyists of plants, birds, fish,
pets, toys, comic books, stones, crystals and many more. Hope you
join and find something you like, ty ty

PHILIPPINEHOBBIES
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17169 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: Thinking about live plants
I won't have an undergravel filter as everything I can find regarding
angels says to absolutely not have one. So that wouldn't be a factor.

My angels will already be in the tank then the discus will be introduced
later. All the other fish are already in the tank and established as
healthy so I don't think I should have any problems with the transfer of
parasites.

The only thing I have found to be a small concern is their feeding
habits. The angels gobble up quickly while the discus take a long time.
I like to hand feed my fish anyway so I will take care of the discus
that way while giving the angels something to snack on to distract them.
=)

Thank you so much for the link. I look forward to checking it out later
today! =)

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Judy R
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 6:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Thinking about live plants



Hi Leslie,

Being one who has ventured keeping Discus and Angelfish; I suggest you
not put the two species in the same tank. There are parasites that
Angelfish can tolerate that Discus cannot. Also, being to the delicate
nature (of sorts) of Discus, I would suggest a bare bottom tank for
them...no frills. I had an undergravel filter and plastic plants and it
was nothing but a headache. It's just a breeding ground for bacteria. If
anything, perhaps you can learn from my BIG mistake. I am happy to
report that I only lost two of my precious Discus and managed to nurse
my others back to health. If you would like more information on Discus
Care, etc. go to www.simplydiscus.com There is a wealth of information
there! Enjoy your tanks!







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17170 From: Ash Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1215
A great way to share experience & ask ?sanother post about these mysterious algae balls.
is there a website anyone could direct me to so as to see a photo of these things?
----- Original Message -----
4a.
Bloody Cyano - Explanation?
Posted by: "supamii" supamii@... supamii
Thu Jun 8, 2006 3:37 pm (PST)
Well I'm sure its not difficult to agree we all dread the
cyanobacteria that grows along-side, over, and under literally
everything in the tank. The cyano is not really something that annoys
me - but as an indicator of poor water quality its a bit of a concern.

I've been trying to maintain my water changes and other things.. blah
blah.. and finally I decided to get one of those japanese MOSS BALLS.

I basically ripped the moss ball open and spreaded it out as a big
clump. I was going to just make 2 or 3 moss balls out of it.

It just so happens that I put it over a large sheet of cyano and
within 20 or so minutes the cynao around the area is gone- and whats
even more bizzare is that the edges of the sheet seem to be turning
into a very lush crimson red pigment.

To describe whats happening, it looks like the cyano is BLEEDING - or
something to that effect.

Can anyone give me an explanation or thoughts of what is going on
here? I find this very facinating.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17171 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: A light for live plants or too much?
Would this light work or would it be too much? It seems it might cause
a lot of algae growth if I'm not careful. My tank is a 46 gal to house
angels and discus.
Thanks!
Leslie

http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=23789;categor
y_id=2907;pcid1=1843;pcid2=


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17172 From: red-eye Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: A light for live plants or too much?
I am fairly certain the corallife bulbs give off a blue light which does
not promote plant growthHTH
red-eye

At 07:47 AM 6/9/2006, you wrote:

>Would this light work or would it be too much? It seems it might cause
>a lot of algae growth if I'm not careful. My tank is a 46 gal to house
>angels and discus.
>Thanks!
>Leslie
>
><http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=23789;categor>http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=23789;categor
>y_id=2907;pcid1=1843;pcid2=
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17173 From: aclaar877 Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: A light for live plants or too much?
I have one of these bulbs, primarily for the nice color. It will
enhance the discus color. But, it needs to be paired with a bulb in
the 6500 K range (the blue one you have is 10,000 K). One 10,000 K
bulb will make the whole tank a dark blue color and by itself will
probably not be enough to support plants. For the 46 gallon, try to
find a twin or triple tube fluorescent fixture that fits. I had
success with a twin-tube over a 55 gallon, but now I see that they
make triples.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?
pcatid=9869&N=2004+113349

AC

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Would this light work or would it be too much? It seems it might
cause
> a lot of algae growth if I'm not careful. My tank is a 46 gal to
house
> angels and discus.
> Thanks!
> Leslie
>
> http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?
product_id=23789;categor
> y_id=2907;pcid1=1843;pcid2=
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17174 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1215
www.freshwateraquariumplants.com I've been ordering from them and so
far, so good.

> is there a website anyone could direct me to so as to see a photo of
these things?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17175 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody Cyano - Explanation?
I think you are on to something there, the filamentous nature of the
moss balls seem to be just the thing to absorb it. WTG.

> Cynthia,
>
> I think you would also be interested in photos of what I deem a
> phenomenon.
>
> http://sdcc21.ucsd.edu/~sapham/moss/
>
> The images are 0.jpg.. etc.
>
> You will notice that the sheet of cyano is almost being pulled into
> the moss ball.
>
> =) I've got a super phytoremediative thing going on! I also think
> that perhaps all of this has to take into account the that moss
balls
> are algae - not the ordinary plant like java ferns or things of
that sort.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17176 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Black algae? Fungus?
I have some nasty looking black growth growing on all three pieces of
driftwood. Is this algae and how do I get rid of it? It's UGly and
it's almost jet black. It stands out in a clump form like a ball of
fungus.
~L


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17177 From: sharporigional Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: I need HELP fixing the PH in my tropical fish aquarium
HI All. I am new to this group and have a question about managing
the PH levels in my 20 gallen freshwater Tropical fish tank.

It seems that I can not get the PH to neutral 7. It wants to stay
around 6.

Here is what I have done so far, and failed with:
I have removed all decorations from the tank to eliminate them as
the cause.
I have repeated used PH Up products and PH stabelization products.
They have not worked.
My tap water is alkaline, about 7.6. So, I have tried gradual
continous water changes to use the (treated) tap water to balance to
acidic. This got my PH up to about 6.8. But, by the next morning
the water in the tank was back to PH 6 already! Even the water in
the test viles changed from the color indicating 7.6 to the color
indicating 6.0 over night simply sitting in the closed vile.

All that is left in the tank are the stones, which the pet store
said shouldn't be the problem, the heater and the wisper filter
system. The ammonia and nitrate and nitrite levels are very good.
I can not figure out what else to do to help the fish, which are
slowly dying.

I am open to all sugesstions. Please HELP.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17178 From: nebula331@yahoo.com Date: 6/9/2006
Subject: Fish may avoid "sexual harassment," researchers say
Fish may avoid "sexual harassment," researchers say
Female guppies seem to risk their lives to flee a barrage of male advances, scientists have found. (Article in World Science)
http://www.world-science.net/othernews/060608_guppy.htm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17179 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: I need HELP fixing the PH in my tropical fish aquarium
Why bother? Keep fish that would like that kind of pH. There are any number
of interesting fish that prefer a slightly acidic water such s you have.
Look at tetras, barbs, many South American cichlids are among those to
consider. There are also fish that are not particularly sensitive to pH,
look at gouramis and other fish from Asia and the subcontinent.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of sharporigional
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 5:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I need HELP fixing the PH in my tropical fish
aquarium

HI All. I am new to this group and have a question about managing
the PH levels in my 20 gallen freshwater Tropical fish tank.

It seems that I can not get the PH to neutral 7. It wants to stay
around 6.

Here is what I have done so far, and failed with:
I have removed all decorations from the tank to eliminate them as
the cause.
I have repeated used PH Up products and PH stabelization products.
They have not worked.
My tap water is alkaline, about 7.6. So, I have tried gradual
continous water changes to use the (treated) tap water to balance to
acidic. This got my PH up to about 6.8. But, by the next morning
the water in the tank was back to PH 6 already! Even the water in
the test viles changed from the color indicating 7.6 to the color
indicating 6.0 over night simply sitting in the closed vile.

All that is left in the tank are the stones, which the pet store
said shouldn't be the problem, the heater and the wisper filter
system. The ammonia and nitrate and nitrite levels are very good.
I can not figure out what else to do to help the fish, which are
slowly dying.

I am open to all sugesstions. Please HELP.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17180 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: I need HELP fixing the PH in my tropical fish aquarium
I use rinsed peat moss in the filters to help combat the situation, and
in Omaha, where the water was extremely hard, I used a tablespoon of
vinegar in the water as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17181 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Tired of digging cichlids
I am so tired of my cichlids rearranging my tank. I can handle it
somewhat but lately it looks like the tank is going to fall over due all
the gravel being on only one side. Soooo, I am think of giving it a
makeover w/ new larger gravel & rocks that they can not dig into.
Two concerns come to mind:
1. Biological interference. I know this is where so much of the
beneficial bacteria is stored. Should I leave a certain amount of the
old gravel in order to cause less of a disturbance?
2. Cleaning. How do I clean the larger rocks? I don't think my python
will do the job well enough over the larger stones.

But the biological aspect is my main concern. I do not want to
interfere with that at all.
This won't tick off my fish will it? Not having anything left to dig
into? That's their entire life is digging in this stuff.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17182 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: Tired of digging cichlids
Try just adding some larger anchoring rocks, and leaving channels for
the cichlids to dig through?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17183 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: what's wrong with their eyes?
One of my Blood Parrots and one of the Oscars have developed something
looking like cataract on their eyes. The Oscar even have like small
white spots on his corneas.

Does anyone know what it is and how to treat it?

The Oscar has been a little bit "down" the last couple days and I
thought it was just because he ate too much (feed them live fish the
other day).

Could it be fungus?
thankful for any help
Magdalena
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17184 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with their eyes?
My betta got a white ring around his eye and something that looked like a second skin over it with the ring. Another member said it might be popeye and to get maracin2 at the pet store......I did and it worked. He now has his energy back and the ring and "skin" are gone......not sure if this is what your's has but it might be a starting place for research. Cory
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17185 From: magdalena jones Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with their eyes?
thanks Cory, I'll try that
magdalena

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote:
My betta got a white ring around his eye and something that looked like a second skin over it with the ring. Another member said it might be popeye and to get maracin2 at the pet store......I did and it worked. He now has his energy back and the ring and "skin" are gone......not sure if this is what your's has but it might be a starting place for research. Cory
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17186 From: Ann Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with their eyes?
The three most common causes of this condition are
#1 Poor water quality
#2 Bacterial infection
#3 eye flukes
How long has the tank been up and running?
what are your water parameters?
pH
Ammonia
nitrIte
and nitrAte levels
-----------------------------------
I'd do a big water change first and see if that hepls the
condition,you're going to have to do this anywyas before treating with
antibiotics-Anne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17187 From: cody adams Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: can I add a flowerhorn?
I think a flower horn is to aggressive , u might want
to think of something thats semi aggressive. but u
might want to try a green terror or a jack dempseys

--- eandtuta1924 <eandtuta1924@...> wrote:

> I have a 150 gallon with 3 Parrots, 1 Firemouth, 1
> white Severum, 1
> Convict, 1 Jewel, 1 Rainbow Shark and 1 Pleco.
> Is it safe to add a flowerhorn with this population?
> I'm thinking of
> adding a fish in around the 4" range.
> Would love some advice and pros and cons
> thanks
> Magdalena
>
>
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17188 From: tommy thompson Date: 6/10/2006
Subject: Re: I need HELP fixing the PH in my tropical fish aquarium
I used crushed coral in my tanks at home. Try using about 1/4or less of a cup. It keep my tanks at around 7.6. It will add to the hardness, but the extra calcium will help snail keep their shells. Carefull using Ph stablizers as some have phosphates and can cause algae to grow. The ones I tried also raised the hardness.
Hope thhis helps
Tommy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17189 From: magdalena jones Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: Re: what's wrong with their eyes?
the water parameters are fine and the tank has just been up for about 3 weeks. Low ammonia around 40 in nitrate and pH a little on the low side.
I'm going to try to treat them with Maracyn two today and see if anything improves, thanks for your input
Magdalena


Ann <beblondie@...> wrote:
The three most common causes of this condition are
#1 Poor water quality
#2 Bacterial infection
#3 eye flukes
How long has the tank been up and running?
what are your water parameters?
pH
Ammonia
nitrIte
and nitrAte levels
-----------------------------------
I'd do a big water change first and see if that hepls the
condition,you're going to have to do this anywyas before treating with
antibiotics-Anne





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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17190 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: Changed everything in my tank, the white worms are back
Ok, I got rid of the little stringy white worms the other week. I bought a larger tank and put all new rocks, water everything in it. The Oscar has been in the new tank for a week and has been doing well after the initial 1-2 day adjustment period. I noticed yesterday that the white worms are floating around in this tank now. Could it be something in the food pellets that I feed him? I feed him HiKari Cichlid Staple. The only two things that are the same between these two tanks is the food and the oscar.

Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW



"Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is
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error, please notify the sender immediately by replying to the message and
deleting it from your computer."











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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17191 From: thesydmonster Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: What to add?
I am looking for suggestions on tankmates for a 37 gallon tank with 3
botia striata, 3 otos, and a BN pleco. pH 7.8 temp 76F large grain
sand bottom with driftwood and plants.

What would live happily with them? No guppies, danios, neons or
rasboras, please, as we have those in other tanks :)

Interests include: pencilfish, rummy nose, rainbows, killies,
gouramis, and dwarf cichlids. I just don't know what will do well
with the higher pH and hardness and current tank inhabitants.

Thanks!
Rebecca
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17192 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: Re: What to add?
You might want to take a look at some of the dwarf gourami types. Think
_Colisa lalia_ if you can find the natural form any more or _Trichogaster
chuna_, the honey gourami. _Trichopsis vittata_, the croaking gourami might
be nice. There are a number of nice rainbows out there. Just read up on
them, as some do get quite large, and you would want to stick with the
smaller species in that size tank. Most of them do come from environments
with a higher pH. I haven't done rainbows yet, though I may sometime in the
future. Gary Lange has been trying to get me to try some for years.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of thesydmonster
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 3:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What to add?

I am looking for suggestions on tankmates for a 37 gallon tank with 3
botia striata, 3 otos, and a BN pleco. pH 7.8 temp 76F large grain
sand bottom with driftwood and plants.

What would live happily with them? No guppies, danios, neons or
rasboras, please, as we have those in other tanks :)

Interests include: pencilfish, rummy nose, rainbows, killies,
gouramis, and dwarf cichlids. I just don't know what will do well
with the higher pH and hardness and current tank inhabitants.

Thanks!
Rebecca
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17193 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: WalMart Puffer?
Hi All,

I bought a new fish last night. The store did not have a "care
sheet" or proper name for it, so I do not know what kind it is for
sure. It did say they are best kept singly or with other large tough
fish.

It is most likely one of the three listed below.

Tetraodon schoutedeni ( spotted congo puffer )
Tetraodon Nigroviridis ( spotted green puffer )
Tetraodon fluviatilis ( green puffer )


I have it in a 55 gallon freshwater community tank with Live plants
and some driftwood. The other fish are 13 Neon Tetras, 5 Black Neon
Tetras, a male Betta, a wild male guppy, a pair of platys, 1
remaining oto (the other 15 died off slowly from starvation?) and a
(dwarf) Clown Pleco.

I also bought a little tiny (African?) frog last night that the
label says gets to the size of a silver dollar. I've never had 1 of
these either, so I not sure about it as well.

I'm hoping it's the more peaceful spotted congo puffer.

So ?'s:

Has anybody else had 1 of these?

Is it ok to keep in the community tank?

What do I feed it?

Should I try to get a pair? And how do I tell Male from Female?


http://puffernet.tripod.com/main.html

"T. schoutedeni is a mild-mannered freshwater puffer from the Congo
Republic. It lives almost exclusively in the Congo River, which
forms the Malebo pool (formerly Stanley pool) near its conclusion.
Reproductive pairs are dioectic and the female lays her eggs in
leaves or similar submersed fauna. The male will sometimes guard
the clutch. These puffers are some of the more peaceful of its
genus.
One of the more commonly sold puffers, it is often confused with T.
fluviatilis, and T. nigroviridis. There are some differences. In
short, T. schoutedeni has a distinct club-like shape with backward
pointing spines along its underbelly. Identifying these similar
looking fish is important, since one is brackish and the others
fresh."
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17194 From: thesydmonster Date: 6/11/2006
Subject: Re: WalMart Puffer?
I do not have personal experience with these fish but from what I
have read, most people keep the puffers in species only tanks. It
is important to know which puffer you have since some are freshwater
and some are brackish. They can be quite the fin nippers, I
believe. Cute little buggers, though :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron R. Martin"
<anonymous122899@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I bought a new fish last night. The store did not have a "care
> sheet" or proper name for it, so I do not know what kind it is for
> sure. It did say they are best kept singly or with other large
tough
> fish.
>
> It is most likely one of the three listed below.
>
> Tetraodon schoutedeni ( spotted congo puffer )
> Tetraodon Nigroviridis ( spotted green puffer )
> Tetraodon fluviatilis ( green puffer )
>
>
> I have it in a 55 gallon freshwater community tank with Live
plants
> and some driftwood. The other fish are 13 Neon Tetras, 5 Black
Neon
> Tetras, a male Betta, a wild male guppy, a pair of platys, 1
> remaining oto (the other 15 died off slowly from starvation?) and
a
> (dwarf) Clown Pleco.
>
> I also bought a little tiny (African?) frog last night that the
> label says gets to the size of a silver dollar. I've never had 1
of
> these either, so I not sure about it as well.
>
> I'm hoping it's the more peaceful spotted congo puffer.
>
> So ?'s:
>
> Has anybody else had 1 of these?
>
> Is it ok to keep in the community tank?
>
> What do I feed it?
>
> Should I try to get a pair? And how do I tell Male from Female?
>
>
> http://puffernet.tripod.com/main.html
>
> "T. schoutedeni is a mild-mannered freshwater puffer from the
Congo
> Republic. It lives almost exclusively in the Congo River, which
> forms the Malebo pool (formerly Stanley pool) near its
conclusion.
> Reproductive pairs are dioectic and the female lays her eggs in
> leaves or similar submersed fauna. The male will sometimes guard
> the clutch. These puffers are some of the more peaceful of its
> genus.
> One of the more commonly sold puffers, it is often confused with
T.
> fluviatilis, and T. nigroviridis. There are some differences.
In
> short, T. schoutedeni has a distinct club-like shape with backward
> pointing spines along its underbelly. Identifying these similar
> looking fish is important, since one is brackish and the others
> fresh."
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17195 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: WalMart Puffer?
I have mine in his own tank and was told they do not do well with other puffers....

He LOVES bloodworms, but will eat other frozen food items

Cynthia
----- Original Message -----
From: thesydmonster
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 9:54 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: WalMart Puffer?


I do not have personal experience with these fish but from what I
have read, most people keep the puffers in species only tanks. It
is important to know which puffer you have since some are freshwater
and some are brackish. They can be quite the fin nippers, I
believe. Cute little buggers, though :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron R. Martin"
<anonymous122899@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I bought a new fish last night. The store did not have a "care
> sheet" or proper name for it, so I do not know what kind it is for
> sure. It did say they are best kept singly or with other large
tough
> fish.
>
> It is most likely one of the three listed below.
>
> Tetraodon schoutedeni ( spotted congo puffer )
> Tetraodon Nigroviridis ( spotted green puffer )
> Tetraodon fluviatilis ( green puffer )
>
>
> I have it in a 55 gallon freshwater community tank with Live
plants
> and some driftwood. The other fish are 13 Neon Tetras, 5 Black
Neon
> Tetras, a male Betta, a wild male guppy, a pair of platys, 1
> remaining oto (the other 15 died off slowly from starvation?) and
a
> (dwarf) Clown Pleco.
>
> I also bought a little tiny (African?) frog last night that the
> label says gets to the size of a silver dollar. I've never had 1
of
> these either, so I not sure about it as well.
>
> I'm hoping it's the more peaceful spotted congo puffer.
>
> So ?'s:
>
> Has anybody else had 1 of these?
>
> Is it ok to keep in the community tank?
>
> What do I feed it?
>
> Should I try to get a pair? And how do I tell Male from Female?
>
>
> http://puffernet.tripod.com/main.html
>
> "T. schoutedeni is a mild-mannered freshwater puffer from the
Congo
> Republic. It lives almost exclusively in the Congo River, which
> forms the Malebo pool (formerly Stanley pool) near its
conclusion.
> Reproductive pairs are dioectic and the female lays her eggs in
> leaves or similar submersed fauna. The male will sometimes guard
> the clutch. These puffers are some of the more peaceful of its
> genus.
> One of the more commonly sold puffers, it is often confused with
T.
> fluviatilis, and T. nigroviridis. There are some differences.
In
> short, T. schoutedeni has a distinct club-like shape with backward
> pointing spines along its underbelly. Identifying these similar
> looking fish is important, since one is brackish and the others
> fresh."
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17196 From: bali-center Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: The Bigest Life Tropical Marine FIsh Company
We are one of marine fish exporters located in Serangan Island in Bali, Indonesia. Our company established since 2000.

We specialize in marine fish, invertebrate, crab, shrimp and artificial soft coral. We have been shipping to Japan, Singapore, LA, German and Taiwan.

We also guanrantee our lowest price.

Our fishes in our farm come from various sea water through Indonesia, such as Sulawesi, the North Maluku, Madura, Java, Papua, Sumatera and Serangan Island that are known to have many kinds of ornamental fish with all kinds of shapes and colors.

"Costumer satisfaction is our aim."

Visit http://ltmf-bali.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17197 From: micheal03us Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Hello
Hi,
My name is Karen and I joined the group hoping to find someone who
can help me with my algea problem and to share the enjoyment of fish
with others. I haven't had my tank long but since we had to start
getting a different size of media for the filter we have had nothing
but trouble with with green algea. It is a bright green and very
hard to get rid of. I tried all the suggestions given to me and even
have an algea eater but it still keeps coming back.
It's gotten so that I have have to clean the filter and the media
every two days just to get rid of it. I'm afraid that if I can't
find a way to get of it, it's going to make my fish sick.
The filter I have came with the 5 gallon kit, the media, the
ammonia and charcoal bags had large pieces in them and filled the
place where they go nicely and seemd to really work, there was no
signs of algea and we used the stuff that came with the kit when
changing the water. Now, when we get the media, it comes in the bags
the pices are very tiny and do not fill up the entire chamber that
thye go in and I wonder if that is the problem, that this new stuff
isn't filtering like the bigger pieces did.
It has been a couple of weeks since I cleaned the rocks and I can
see it getting into them again and turning them green, it won't be
long before it starts on the glass behind the heater.
I don't know what to do, we have a live plant and it's nto near a
window. I love my fish and I don't want to see them get sick cause
of this stufrf. Is there anything I can do to stop this?
I have a digital camera and once I get the hang of taking pics of
them with it, I'll share some pics of my cuties. Have a great day,
Karen.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17198 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: WalMart Puffer?
puffers are extremely aggressive and tend to like brakish water.

> Hi All,
>
> I bought a new fish last night. The store did not have a "care
> sheet" or proper name for it, so I do not know what kind it is for
> sure. It did say they are best kept singly or with other large
tough
> fish.
>
> It is most likely one of the three listed below.
>
> Tetraodon schoutedeni ( spotted congo puffer )
> Tetraodon Nigroviridis ( spotted green puffer )
> Tetraodon fluviatilis ( green puffer )
>
>
> I have it in a 55 gallon freshwater community tank with Live plants
> and some driftwood. The other fish are 13 Neon Tetras, 5 Black Neon
> Tetras, a male Betta, a wild male guppy, a pair of platys, 1
> remaining oto (the other 15 died off slowly from starvation?) and a
> (dwarf) Clown Pleco.
>
> I also bought a little tiny (African?) frog last night that the
> label says gets to the size of a silver dollar. I've never had 1 of
> these either, so I not sure about it as well.
>
> I'm hoping it's the more peaceful spotted congo puffer.
>
> So ?'s:
>
> Has anybody else had 1 of these?
>
> Is it ok to keep in the community tank?
>
> What do I feed it?
>
> Should I try to get a pair? And how do I tell Male from Female?
>
>
> http://puffernet.tripod.com/main.html
>
> "T. schoutedeni is a mild-mannered freshwater puffer from the Congo
> Republic. It lives almost exclusively in the Congo River, which
> forms the Malebo pool (formerly Stanley pool) near its conclusion.
> Reproductive pairs are dioectic and the female lays her eggs in
> leaves or similar submersed fauna. The male will sometimes guard
> the clutch. These puffers are some of the more peaceful of its
> genus.
> One of the more commonly sold puffers, it is often confused with T.
> fluviatilis, and T. nigroviridis. There are some differences. In
> short, T. schoutedeni has a distinct club-like shape with backward
> pointing spines along its underbelly. Identifying these similar
> looking fish is important, since one is brackish and the others
> fresh."
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17199 From: daniel_roachus Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: What to add?
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "thesydmonster" <TheSydMonster@...>
wrote:
>
> I am looking for suggestions on tankmates for a 37 gallon tank with 3
> botia striata, 3 otos, and a BN pleco. pH 7.8 temp 76F large grain
> sand bottom with driftwood and plants.
>
> What would live happily with them? No guppies, danios, neons or
> rasboras, please, as we have those in other tanks :)
>

Boeseman rainbows?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17200 From: J29MM@aOL.COM Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: What to add?
tiger, or gold barbs would look nice







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17201 From: kristopher helsing Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: WalMart Puffer?
if it isnt the dwarf species it will make fast mealks out of your tetras.... watch out!!! Species only tank is the only way to raise puffers,

Kris

"Aaron R. Martin" <anonymous122899@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I bought a new fish last night. The store did not have a "care
sheet" or proper name for it, so I do not know what kind it is for
sure. It did say they are best kept singly or with other large tough
fish.

It is most likely one of the three listed below.

Tetraodon schoutedeni ( spotted congo puffer )
Tetraodon Nigroviridis ( spotted green puffer )
Tetraodon fluviatilis ( green puffer )

I have it in a 55 gallon freshwater community tank with Live plants
and some driftwood. The other fish are 13 Neon Tetras, 5 Black Neon
Tetras, a male Betta, a wild male guppy, a pair of platys, 1
remaining oto (the other 15 died off slowly from starvation?) and a
(dwarf) Clown Pleco.

I also bought a little tiny (African?) frog last night that the
label says gets to the size of a silver dollar. I've never had 1 of
these either, so I not sure about it as well.

I'm hoping it's the more peaceful spotted congo puffer.

So ?'s:

Has anybody else had 1 of these?

Is it ok to keep in the community tank?

What do I feed it?

Should I try to get a pair? And how do I tell Male from Female?

http://puffernet.tripod.com/main.html

"T. schoutedeni is a mild-mannered freshwater puffer from the Congo
Republic. It lives almost exclusively in the Congo River, which
forms the Malebo pool (formerly Stanley pool) near its conclusion.
Reproductive pairs are dioectic and the female lays her eggs in
leaves or similar submersed fauna. The male will sometimes guard
the clutch. These puffers are some of the more peaceful of its
genus.
One of the more commonly sold puffers, it is often confused with T.
fluviatilis, and T. nigroviridis. There are some differences. In
short, T. schoutedeni has a distinct club-like shape with backward
pointing spines along its underbelly. Identifying these similar
looking fish is important, since one is brackish and the others
fresh."





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17202 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Algae requires light and food to grow. You are not too specific about the
type of algae you have, is it green water, stringy, or carpet like? The
problem with algae eaters is that they like specific kinds of algae, and,
unless really hungry, do not touch other species. It sounds like you have a
smallish tank. You do not mention how many fish you have in it, or whether
you have cycled the tank at all.

If you do not have live plants (other than the algae, of course), the first
step would be to reduce the amount of light your tank is getting. Just use
the light for when you are viewing the fish, without plants, you can keep it
off all other times. If your room is very bright, you may want to cover the
tank with a blanket during the day to prevent the ambient sunlight from
reaching it.

Think about your feeding habits. How much food are you giving the fish? Is
it more than they can eat in a couple of minutes? If so, you are feeding too
much. Cut back on the food. Do the fish miss a lot of the food when you
place it in the tank? It may be sinking too fast for them, try a different
type of food--flakes if you are using pellets or granules. Different foods
will have different rates of sinking.

What is your pH? What is your ammonia? Your nitrates and nitrites? These
are important measures, especially when you are having a problem in your
tank. Forego the filter packs with the carbon and zeolite in them. For the
most part, you should not need either. Just use an insert that is only
polyester fiber. If you do have an ammonia problem, use a product such as
Amquel not the plus version) to help control the ammonia. It will help the
necessary bacteria get established while converting the ammonia to a
substance that is not harmful to your fish.

I just re-read your message, and you have a 5 gallon tank (likely 5.5
gallons) and that can be a tough size to deal with. You should actually get
the biggest tank you have the room and budget for. I've kept 5 gallon tanks
before, and they can be the devil to properly care for--and I like to think
I know what I am doing. The 5 gallon is only good for keeping a few
relatively small fish in. it is hard to maintain a stable temperature, or a
stable level of anything in.

I'd recommend a good book to help you out. A book I like to recommend to
novices is the Baensch Atlas of Aquarium fishes, Volume 1. It has a good
section on setting up the tank, a decent section on live plants, and tons of
fish pictured in it. If there are used book stores near you, you can
probably find a copy fairly inexpensively. It normally sells for around $40
US.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of micheal03us
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 3:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello

Hi,
My name is Karen and I joined the group hoping to find someone who
can help me with my algea problem and to share the enjoyment of fish
with others. I haven't had my tank long but since we had to start
getting a different size of media for the filter we have had nothing
but trouble with with green algea. It is a bright green and very
hard to get rid of. I tried all the suggestions given to me and even
have an algea eater but it still keeps coming back.
It's gotten so that I have have to clean the filter and the media
every two days just to get rid of it. I'm afraid that if I can't
find a way to get of it, it's going to make my fish sick.
The filter I have came with the 5 gallon kit, the media, the
ammonia and charcoal bags had large pieces in them and filled the
place where they go nicely and seemd to really work, there was no
signs of algea and we used the stuff that came with the kit when
changing the water. Now, when we get the media, it comes in the bags
the pices are very tiny and do not fill up the entire chamber that
thye go in and I wonder if that is the problem, that this new stuff
isn't filtering like the bigger pieces did.
It has been a couple of weeks since I cleaned the rocks and I can
see it getting into them again and turning them green, it won't be
long before it starts on the glass behind the heater.
I don't know what to do, we have a live plant and it's nto near a
window. I love my fish and I don't want to see them get sick cause
of this stufrf. Is there anything I can do to stop this?
I have a digital camera and once I get the hang of taking pics of
them with it, I'll share some pics of my cuties. Have a great day,
Karen.









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17203 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Silk plants in aquariums?
Is it OK to add some silk plants to the aquarium? They are so much more
realistic. I have seen some at the pet stores that say they are for
reptile or aquatic use.
Can you make your own using the silks you find at a hobby shop and
glueing them to driftwood? What would you use...silicone?

I know I've posted a lot lately but I am just establishing a new tank
and about to overhaul an existing one. Lots of questions pop up at
different times & I absolutely want to do everything correctly, so thank
you so much for all the input. =)

~Leslie and the thankful fish in Arkansas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17204 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: OT: Worm Affecting Yahoo Users
For those of you who use the web interface of Yahoo, beware:

http://www.computerworld.com/action/article.do?command=viewArticleBasic&arti
cleId=9001104&source=NLT_SEC&nlid=38

In case of wrapping, use this URL: http://tinyurl.com/zaubp

The solution is for those who use the web interface to turn off scripting in
their browsers so this worm will not affect them.

I've already seen one list at Yahoo getting hit by this worm.

Thanks Yahoo! For all the use of HTML, even where not necessary.

\\Steve//
"Nothing travels faster than the speed of light but bad news"
Douglas Adams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17205 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: Re: Silk plants in aquariums?
Hello Arkansas,

Absolutely anything can be built with silicone...the
wonder adhesive! You need to be concerned with the
dyes used in the silks. In all probability the dyes
contain toxic chemicals in order to be PERMANENT.
Also, the silk will decompose very quickly in water.
The pet-store variety plants are of excellent quality
and of course they can't possibly be made of real
silk. Just do as I do: cut the "plants" up and glue
them on to your piece of driftwood or whatever with a
non-toxic silicone (designed for use in fishtanks).
Viola! You are an artist.

Christa

--- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:

> Is it OK to add some silk plants to the aquarium?
> They are so much more
> realistic. I have seen some at the pet stores that
> say they are for
> reptile or aquatic use.
> Can you make your own using the silks you find at a
> hobby shop and
> glueing them to driftwood? What would you
> use...silicone?
>
> I know I've posted a lot lately but I am just
> establishing a new tank
> and about to overhaul an existing one. Lots of
> questions pop up at
> different times & I absolutely want to do everything
> correctly, so thank
> you so much for all the input. =)
>
> ~Leslie and the thankful fish in Arkansas
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17206 From: Wee Border Collie Date: 6/12/2006
Subject: new to the list
Hi everyone,

I have a 40 gallon community tank that includes some tetras and mollies &
platies. I have a 5-gallon nursery tank currently very busy with a little
of each of the livebearers. There are some babies in the big tank, too, of
course, but I like to make sure that some of them grow up instead of just
being snacks. ;) I've had an aquarium for about 7 years now but just
recently moved from a 29-gallon to a 40-gallon.

My husband wants a shrimp. The availability of things here is very limited,
so I'm hoping to go see what the LFS has and then try to figure out if it
will be happy in my tank.

Allie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17207 From: chris topher Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
is it blue-green in color? and growing in sheets
across the glass and rocks?

if so it might be cyanobacteria which does not respond
to typical algae treatments...

i had a problem with that and someone on one of the
lists suggested hydrogen peroxide 1oz for every 10
gallons...

i used half that strength and had resolution
overnight...

it also works for the "hair" algae and brown algae...

no harm came to the fish or the plants in the tank
with this treatment...

woody

--- micheal03us <svensgirl@...> wrote:

> Hi,
> My name is Karen and I joined the group hoping to
> find someone who
> can help me with my algea problem and to share the
> enjoyment of fish
> with others. I haven't had my tank long but since we
> had to start
> getting a different size of media for the filter we
> have had nothing
> but trouble with with green algea. It is a bright
> green and very
> hard to get rid of. I tried all the suggestions
> given to me and even
> have an algea eater but it still keeps coming back.
> It's gotten so that I have have to clean the
> filter and the media
> every two days just to get rid of it. I'm afraid
> that if I can't
> find a way to get of it, it's going to make my fish
> sick.
> The filter I have came with the 5 gallon kit, the
> media, the
> ammonia and charcoal bags had large pieces in them
> and filled the
> place where they go nicely and seemd to really work,
> there was no
> signs of algea and we used the stuff that came with
> the kit when
> changing the water. Now, when we get the media, it
> comes in the bags
> the pices are very tiny and do not fill up the
> entire chamber that
> thye go in and I wonder if that is the problem, that
> this new stuff
> isn't filtering like the bigger pieces did.
> It has been a couple of weeks since I cleaned the
> rocks and I can
> see it getting into them again and turning them
> green, it won't be
> long before it starts on the glass behind the
> heater.
> I don't know what to do, we have a live plant and
> it's nto near a
> window. I love my fish and I don't want to see them
> get sick cause
> of this stufrf. Is there anything I can do to stop
> this?
> I have a digital camera and once I get the hang
> of taking pics of
> them with it, I'll share some pics of my cuties.
> Have a great day,
> Karen.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17208 From: Karen Millett Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
>
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> Date: 2006/06/12 Mon PM 10:11:37 EST
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Hello
>
> Algae requires light and food to grow. You are not too specific about the
> type of algae you have, is it green water, stringy, or carpet like?


It is bright green in the water and dark when I take out the filter to clean it. It is stringy, it hangs on the filter outtake like long streamers if I can't catch it in time to clean it off and it is hard to get off too. It gets into the rocks and looks stringy and slimy there too. When it starts on the glass it looks like little green spots and sometimes they tend to look a little furry. I think it's the same stuff getting on out live plant and ornament. It turns the ends of the plants black andd the fake grass on the ornament black as well.



The
> problem with algae eaters is that they like specific kinds of algae, and,
> unless really hungry, do not touch other species. It sounds like you have a
> smallish tank.

I was told by my fish store that if worst came to worst and I could get rid of it completely to get another one. I used to have a "weather loach" when I had goldfish and he ate everything, this one is a tad fussier. Though once I got a different kind of food, he seems to be eating more.



You do not mention how many fish you have in it, or whether
> you have cycled the tank at all.
>

I have roughly 10 to 12, they won't stay still long enought for me to count them. We lost a few a bit ago to the filter intake. I have changed the water once completely cause the algea was so thick on the glass you couldn't see in and the rocks were completely coated and everything was very difficult to get it off of. I have changed 20% of the water and used the conditioners since then, a couple of times I think.



> If you do not have live plants (other than the algae, of course), the first
> step would be to reduce the amount of light your tank is getting.


We do have one live plant, we used to have two but it died. We don't know why, but the other one is really healthy.

Just use
> the light for when you are viewing the fish, without plants, you can keep it
> off all other times. If your room is very bright, you may want to cover the
> tank with a blanket during the day to prevent the ambient sunlight from
> reaching it.
>
> Think about your feeding habits. How much food are you giving the fish?

I feed them a little in the morning and a little in the evening.


Is
> it more than they can eat in a couple of minutes? If so, you are feeding too
> much. Cut back on the food. Do the fish miss a lot of the food when you
> place it in the tank?


Not the Danios, they go after everything they see moving. They usually eat it up quite good, I feel.

It may be sinking too fast for them, try a different
> type of food--flakes if you are using pellets or granules. Different foods
> will have different rates of sinking.
>
We use the nutrafin max, in the granules, we used to use the flake food, but I got the other becuase it was supposed to help in algea reduction.


> What is your pH? What is your ammonia? Your nitrates and nitrites?


That I have no idea on. We have no kits to test the water but if wean't clear it up we are going to taek samples to out pet store to see what is in the water.


These
> are important measures, especially when you are having a problem in your
> tank. Forego the filter packs with the carbon and zeolite in them. For the
> most part, you should not need either. Just use an insert that is only
> polyester fiber. If you do have an ammonia problem, use a product such as
> Amquel not the plus version) to help control the ammonia. It will help the
> necessary bacteria get established while converting the ammonia to a
> substance that is not harmful to your fish.
>
> I just re-read your message, and you have a 5 gallon tank (likely 5.5
> gallons) and that can be a tough size to deal with. You should actually get
> the biggest tank you have the room and budget for. I've kept 5 gallon tanks
> before, and they can be the devil to properly care for--and I like to think
> I know what I am doing. The 5 gallon is only good for keeping a few
> relatively small fish in. it is hard to maintain a stable temperature, or a
> stable level of anything in.
>

I had thought a bigger tank would be good but we just don't have the room for a bigger one right now, that's why we got the small one to start out with. We didn't think a small one would be so hard to deal with.

> I'd recommend a good book to help you out. A book I like to recommend to
> novices is the Baensch Atlas of Aquarium fishes, Volume 1. It has a good
> section on setting up the tank, a decent section on live plants, and tons of
> fish pictured in it. If there are used book stores near you, you can
> probably find a copy fairly inexpensively. It normally sells for around $40
> US.
>
>
> \\Steve//


Thanks for the info. Karen.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of micheal03us
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 3:28 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello
>
> Hi,
> My name is Karen and I joined the group hoping to find someone who
> can help me with my algea problem and to share the enjoyment of fish
> with others. I haven't had my tank long but since we had to start
> getting a different size of media for the filter we have had nothing
> but trouble with with green algea. It is a bright green and very
> hard to get rid of. I tried all the suggestions given to me and even
> have an algea eater but it still keeps coming back.
> It's gotten so that I have have to clean the filter and the media
> every two days just to get rid of it. I'm afraid that if I can't
> find a way to get of it, it's going to make my fish sick.
> The filter I have came with the 5 gallon kit, the media, the
> ammonia and charcoal bags had large pieces in them and filled the
> place where they go nicely and seemd to really work, there was no
> signs of algea and we used the stuff that came with the kit when
> changing the water. Now, when we get the media, it comes in the bags
> the pices are very tiny and do not fill up the entire chamber that
> thye go in and I wonder if that is the problem, that this new stuff
> isn't filtering like the bigger pieces did.
> It has been a couple of weeks since I cleaned the rocks and I can
> see it getting into them again and turning them green, it won't be
> long before it starts on the glass behind the heater.
> I don't know what to do, we have a live plant and it's nto near a
> window. I love my fish and I don't want to see them get sick cause
> of this stufrf. Is there anything I can do to stop this?
> I have a digital camera and once I get the hang of taking pics of
> them with it, I'll share some pics of my cuties. Have a great day,
> Karen.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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Adorabelle
http://svenslittlegirl.bravepages.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17209 From: Karen Millett Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
This is straight out bright green and hangs like streamers from the filter outtake, will hydrogen peroxide work on that as well? Karen.
>
> From: chris topher <humbottom@...>
> Date: 2006/06/12 Mon PM 05:49:23 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hello
>
> is it blue-green in color? and growing in sheets
> across the glass and rocks?
>
> if so it might be cyanobacteria which does not respond
> to typical algae treatments...
>
> i had a problem with that and someone on one of the
> lists suggested hydrogen peroxide 1oz for every 10
> gallons...
>
> i used half that strength and had resolution
> overnight...
>
> it also works for the "hair" algae and brown algae...
>
> no harm came to the fish or the plants in the tank
> with this treatment...
>
> woody
>
> --- micheal03us <svensgirl@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> > My name is Karen and I joined the group hoping to
> > find someone who
> > can help me with my algea problem and to share the
> > enjoyment of fish
> > with others. I haven't had my tank long but since we
> > had to start
> > getting a different size of media for the filter we
> > have had nothing
> > but trouble with with green algea. It is a bright
> > green and very
> > hard to get rid of. I tried all the suggestions
> > given to me and even
> > have an algea eater but it still keeps coming back.
> > It's gotten so that I have have to clean the
> > filter and the media
> > every two days just to get rid of it. I'm afraid
> > that if I can't
> > find a way to get of it, it's going to make my fish
> > sick.
> > The filter I have came with the 5 gallon kit, the
> > media, the
> > ammonia and charcoal bags had large pieces in them
> > and filled the
> > place where they go nicely and seemd to really work,
> > there was no
> > signs of algea and we used the stuff that came with
> > the kit when
> > changing the water. Now, when we get the media, it
> > comes in the bags
> > the pices are very tiny and do not fill up the
> > entire chamber that
> > thye go in and I wonder if that is the problem, that
> > this new stuff
> > isn't filtering like the bigger pieces did.
> > It has been a couple of weeks since I cleaned the
> > rocks and I can
> > see it getting into them again and turning them
> > green, it won't be
> > long before it starts on the glass behind the
> > heater.
> > I don't know what to do, we have a live plant and
> > it's nto near a
> > window. I love my fish and I don't want to see them
> > get sick cause
> > of this stufrf. Is there anything I can do to stop
> > this?
> > I have a digital camera and once I get the hang
> > of taking pics of
> > them with it, I'll share some pics of my cuties.
> > Have a great day,
> > Karen.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

Adorabelle
http://svenslittlegirl.bravepages.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17211 From: chris topher Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
i honestly dont know...

--- Karen Millett <svensgirl@...> wrote:

> This is straight out bright green and hangs like
> streamers from the filter outtake, will hydrogen
> peroxide work on that as well? Karen.
> >
> > From: chris topher <humbottom@...>
> > Date: 2006/06/12 Mon PM 05:49:23 EST
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hello
> >
> > is it blue-green in color? and growing in sheets
> > across the glass and rocks?
> >
> > if so it might be cyanobacteria which does not
> respond
> > to typical algae treatments...
> >
> > i had a problem with that and someone on one of
> the
> > lists suggested hydrogen peroxide 1oz for every 10
> > gallons...
> >
> > i used half that strength and had resolution
> > overnight...
> >
> > it also works for the "hair" algae and brown
> algae...
> >
> > no harm came to the fish or the plants in the tank
> > with this treatment...
> >
> > woody
> >
> > --- micheal03us <svensgirl@...> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi,
> > > My name is Karen and I joined the group hoping
> to
> > > find someone who
> > > can help me with my algea problem and to share
> the
> > > enjoyment of fish
> > > with others. I haven't had my tank long but
> since we
> > > had to start
> > > getting a different size of media for the filter
> we
> > > have had nothing
> > > but trouble with with green algea. It is a
> bright
> > > green and very
> > > hard to get rid of. I tried all the suggestions
> > > given to me and even
> > > have an algea eater but it still keeps coming
> back.
> > > It's gotten so that I have have to clean the
> > > filter and the media
> > > every two days just to get rid of it. I'm afraid
> > > that if I can't
> > > find a way to get of it, it's going to make my
> fish
> > > sick.
> > > The filter I have came with the 5 gallon kit,
> the
> > > media, the
> > > ammonia and charcoal bags had large pieces in
> them
> > > and filled the
> > > place where they go nicely and seemd to really
> work,
> > > there was no
> > > signs of algea and we used the stuff that came
> with
> > > the kit when
> > > changing the water. Now, when we get the media,
> it
> > > comes in the bags
> > > the pices are very tiny and do not fill up the
> > > entire chamber that
> > > thye go in and I wonder if that is the problem,
> that
> > > this new stuff
> > > isn't filtering like the bigger pieces did.
> > > It has been a couple of weeks since I cleaned
> the
> > > rocks and I can
> > > see it getting into them again and turning them
> > > green, it won't be
> > > long before it starts on the glass behind the
> > > heater.
> > > I don't know what to do, we have a live plant
> and
> > > it's nto near a
> > > window. I love my fish and I don't want to see
> them
> > > get sick cause
> > > of this stufrf. Is there anything I can do to
> stop
> > > this?
> > > I have a digital camera and once I get the
> hang
> > > of taking pics of
> > > them with it, I'll share some pics of my cuties.
> > > Have a great day,
> > > Karen.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > test'; ">
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
> Adorabelle
> http://svenslittlegirl.bravepages.com
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17212 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Unlevel tank
I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans backwards
at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and running
for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand and
tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor somehow.
The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline tubing and
electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in between.

I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
opinions first.

Thanks again,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17213 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Uneven pressure can shorten the life of the seals. Go ahead and
empty it, and then use a solid line of shims in the back to leve it
before filling it.

> I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans
backwards
> at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and
running
> for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand
and
> tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor
somehow.
> The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline
tubing and
> electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in
between.
>
> I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
> opinions first.
>
> Thanks again,
> Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17214 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank/ Shims
Yep, I think that's what I'll do. There is just a few inches of water
left in it plus the gravel which I will drain later this week.
Shims...is that angled wood wedges? What about the amount of glass on
the bottom that isn't supported by anything? It seems that would leave
a small area of the bottom surface in mid-air which can't be good.

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 4:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Unlevel tank



Uneven pressure can shorten the life of the seals. Go ahead and
empty it, and then use a solid line of shims in the back to leve it
before filling it.

> I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans
backwards
> at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and
running
> for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand
and
> tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor
somehow.
> The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline
tubing and
> electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in
between.
>
> I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
> opinions first.
>
> Thanks again,
> Leslie







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17215 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: advice
i am thinking of adding a black ghost knifefish to my tank

i have a fighter
a pink kissing fish
4 neon tetras
a guppy
a red tailed shark
and 2 clown loaches

any advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17216 From: threekidzcrazy2004 Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Homemade filter for pond fish.
Hi. I was hoping some one could give me some ideas for building a
homemade filter for a stock tank pond I placed in my yard trhis
spring. It holds about 250 gal. and is stocked with a large Black
Moore, a year old copper Oranda and a baby Koi, about 1 1/2 inches
long. I am running a Whisper filter, and a large fountain pump for
oxygen. I would like something that gets the bottom of the tank
better, and hae biological vegetation filter in a larger inground
pond. This works well, but would be too big for a submersible filter
in the tank pond. Any suggestions on something smaller that works as
well?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17217 From: mitzizot Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Planted tanks
I have a 75 gal and 29 gal tank, established.

The 29 gal has a black sand substrate, guppies and high fin platies, 2
bristle nose plecos and Cory cats. The filters are a canister and hang on
the back filter.

I added a shop light to the tank hood for lighting and have 2 hagen DIY co2
plus a 2 liter diy bottle. I would like to have a planted tank, a
successful planted tank. I just ordered more plants that have not arrived
yet.

My 75 gal tank has a gravel substrate, a wet dry inside the tank filter, (I
have seen these filters in salt water tanks). It is a black box with 2
chambers and a powerhead with a sponge filter.

I have another powerhead sponge filter. It currently has a few guppies, a
high fin pleco and 2 bristle nose plecos. I plan to add angel fish. I
added a shop light and 4 2liter dIY CO2 bottles.

Any advice on a successful planted tank? I had considered an Oscar, but was
unsure if a 75 gal was large enough and had concerns over the Oscar
demolishing plants. I may go with angel fish. I do a 30% water change
weekly. I really want a fairly low maintenance planted tank. I tried
amazon sword plants, before I added the extra lighting and they didn't
survive long. Thanks for any help or suggestions. The ph is 8, we have
liquid rock. I plan to fertilize after I set up the plants.

Nitrite, ammonia 0 nitrate in the 75 is 20, but I clean regularly. I used
to have 3 blood parrots but when they died, I just kept a few guppies to
keep he tank regulated.

Tiggy

Thank You.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17218 From: MitziZot@aol.com Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Hi,
Hi,
I'm Tiggy and I have a 29 gal tank and a 75 gal tank, freshwater.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17219 From: Keri Kimball Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Help Ick
I need help. I found ick in my tank over a week ago. I started with the Ick Away tablets and used an Ick Away liquid like it said, with little help. I have also raised the temp in my tank to above 80like I was told. The only thing that has happened is I have lost over 1/2 of my fish. I have like 3 Rainbow, 1 African Butterfly, 1 platy, 3 plecos and shrimp left. Does anyone know of anything else I can do. I just really checked my fish today and 1 Rainbow ha dthe ick. I can not seem to get rid of it. Please help me. I'm planning of possibly moving these fish to a smaller tank and really cleaning thye tank with bleach and letting it dry plus rinse rinse rinse etc to help the tank. But the fish. Does anyone know what I can do?? Plus how can I clean my live plants to get rid of this? Anyone have any home remedies, apparently the store remedies have not helped.

In desperate need of help. Thanks in advance for any help.

Keri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17220 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Karen,

The number of fish you have in that tank is big problem number 1. You are
either going to need to get a larger tank, or remove some of the fish. You
mentioned 10-12 fish. Even if they were each less than one inch long, you
have far too many fish. You mentioned danios in your post, which gives you
another whammy since they are so active.

I'd go to your store, first opportunity and ask them to get you some
Aqua-Tru kits. I like the Aqua-Tru fro a couple of reasons. With the vial,
it is hard not to get a good match on the color the test gives you, and they
use dated powdered reagents.

While you are at the store, check to see if they will take some of your fish
back. The population in the tank needs to be reduced. You probably want to
keep about 3 of the danios along with the algae eater.

The algal problem you are experiencing now is probably the only thing
standing between you and disaster in your tank. You will want to start daily
water changes of 50% or so, until things get under control. Treat the water
with Amquel like I mentioned yesterday. As you get the tank cycled and
reduce the population, you should see a lessening of your algal problem and
it will eventually disappear. Then you can start reading about plants in the
Baensch Atlas and start planning where you will put a larger tank. (Ask the
people here--there is always room for another tank <g>.)


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Karen Millett
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 9:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: [AquaticLife] Hello


>
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> Date: 2006/06/12 Mon PM 10:11:37 EST
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Hello
>
> Algae requires light and food to grow. You are not too specific about the
> type of algae you have, is it green water, stringy, or carpet like?


It is bright green in the water and dark when I take out the filter to
clean it. It is stringy, it hangs on the filter outtake like long streamers
if I can't catch it in time to clean it off and it is hard to get off too.
It gets into the rocks and looks stringy and slimy there too. When it starts
on the glass it looks like little green spots and sometimes they tend to
look a little furry. I think it's the same stuff getting on out live plant
and ornament. It turns the ends of the plants black andd the fake grass on
the ornament black as well.



The
> problem with algae eaters is that they like specific kinds of algae, and,
> unless really hungry, do not touch other species. It sounds like you have
a
> smallish tank.

I was told by my fish store that if worst came to worst and I could get rid
of it completely to get another one. I used to have a "weather loach" when I
had goldfish and he ate everything, this one is a tad fussier. Though once I
got a different kind of food, he seems to be eating more.



You do not mention how many fish you have in it, or whether
> you have cycled the tank at all.
>

I have roughly 10 to 12, they won't stay still long enought for me to count
them. We lost a few a bit ago to the filter intake. I have changed the water
once completely cause the algea was so thick on the glass you couldn't see
in and the rocks were completely coated and everything was very difficult to
get it off of. I have changed 20% of the water and used the conditioners
since then, a couple of times I think.



> If you do not have live plants (other than the algae, of course), the
first
> step would be to reduce the amount of light your tank is getting.


We do have one live plant, we used to have two but it died. We don't know
why, but the other one is really healthy.

Just use
> the light for when you are viewing the fish, without plants, you can keep
it
> off all other times. If your room is very bright, you may want to cover
the
> tank with a blanket during the day to prevent the ambient sunlight from
> reaching it.
>
> Think about your feeding habits. How much food are you giving the fish?

I feed them a little in the morning and a little in the evening.


Is
> it more than they can eat in a couple of minutes? If so, you are feeding
too
> much. Cut back on the food. Do the fish miss a lot of the food when you
> place it in the tank?


Not the Danios, they go after everything they see moving. They usually eat
it up quite good, I feel.

It may be sinking too fast for them, try a different
> type of food--flakes if you are using pellets or granules. Different foods
> will have different rates of sinking.
>
We use the nutrafin max, in the granules, we used to use the flake food, but
I got the other becuase it was supposed to help in algea reduction.


> What is your pH? What is your ammonia? Your nitrates and nitrites?


That I have no idea on. We have no kits to test the water but if wean't
clear it up we are going to taek samples to out pet store to see what is in
the water.


These
> are important measures, especially when you are having a problem in your
> tank. Forego the filter packs with the carbon and zeolite in them. For the
> most part, you should not need either. Just use an insert that is only
> polyester fiber. If you do have an ammonia problem, use a product such as
> Amquel not the plus version) to help control the ammonia. It will help the
> necessary bacteria get established while converting the ammonia to a
> substance that is not harmful to your fish.
>
> I just re-read your message, and you have a 5 gallon tank (likely 5.5
> gallons) and that can be a tough size to deal with. You should actually
get
> the biggest tank you have the room and budget for. I've kept 5 gallon
tanks
> before, and they can be the devil to properly care for--and I like to
think
> I know what I am doing. The 5 gallon is only good for keeping a few
> relatively small fish in. it is hard to maintain a stable temperature, or
a
> stable level of anything in.
>

I had thought a bigger tank would be good but we just don't have the room
for a bigger one right now, that's why we got the small one to start out
with. We didn't think a small one would be so hard to deal with.

> I'd recommend a good book to help you out. A book I like to recommend to
> novices is the Baensch Atlas of Aquarium fishes, Volume 1. It has a good
> section on setting up the tank, a decent section on live plants, and tons
of
> fish pictured in it. If there are used book stores near you, you can
> probably find a copy fairly inexpensively. It normally sells for around
$40
> US.
>
>
> \\Steve//


Thanks for the info. Karen.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of micheal03us
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 3:28 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello
>
> Hi,
> My name is Karen and I joined the group hoping to find someone who
> can help me with my algea problem and to share the enjoyment of fish
> with others. I haven't had my tank long but since we had to start
> getting a different size of media for the filter we have had nothing
> but trouble with with green algea. It is a bright green and very
> hard to get rid of. I tried all the suggestions given to me and even
> have an algea eater but it still keeps coming back.
> It's gotten so that I have have to clean the filter and the media
> every two days just to get rid of it. I'm afraid that if I can't
> find a way to get of it, it's going to make my fish sick.
> The filter I have came with the 5 gallon kit, the media, the
> ammonia and charcoal bags had large pieces in them and filled the
> place where they go nicely and seemd to really work, there was no
> signs of algea and we used the stuff that came with the kit when
> changing the water. Now, when we get the media, it comes in the bags
> the pices are very tiny and do not fill up the entire chamber that
> thye go in and I wonder if that is the problem, that this new stuff
> isn't filtering like the bigger pieces did.
> It has been a couple of weeks since I cleaned the rocks and I can
> see it getting into them again and turning them green, it won't be
> long before it starts on the glass behind the heater.
> I don't know what to do, we have a live plant and it's nto near a
> window. I love my fish and I don't want to see them get sick cause
> of this stufrf. Is there anything I can do to stop this?
> I have a digital camera and once I get the hang of taking pics of
> them with it, I'll share some pics of my cuties. Have a great day,
> Karen.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17221 From: Jerry Young Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hi,
Welcome to the group.

MitziZot@... wrote: Hi,
I'm Tiggy and I have a 29 gal tank and a 75 gal tank, freshwater.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17222 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Leveling the stand is the best way to go--don't just try to level the tank
alone. Check out you local lumberyard and see if you can get a few cedar
shakes (they are used for siding and roofing in some parts of the US). I
find that these work very well for leveling projects and they have a long
lifespan. I bought a bundle about 20 years ago, and still have a lot of that
bundle left, so see if you can use your best poor teacher, it's for the kids
arguments and gain a few pieces. Then just push them under the legs of the
stand until the tank is level, and trim and refill the tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 4:39 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans backwards
at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and running
for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand and
tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor somehow.
The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline tubing and
electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in between.

I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
opinions first.

Thanks again,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17223 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: advice
Tank size?

Size of your gourami?

Kiss the small fish (tetras and guppy) good-bye.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of tartintaff@...
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 12:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] advice

i am thinking of adding a black ghost knifefish to my tank

i have a fighter
a pink kissing fish
4 neon tetras
a guppy
a red tailed shark
and 2 clown loaches

any advice





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17224 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/13/2006
Subject: Re: Planted tanks
An oscar and plants will not go together. The 75 is large enough for an
adult oscar or two. If you go that route, no other fish.

I'll leave the plant questions to others.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mitzizot
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 11:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Planted tanks

I have a 75 gal and 29 gal tank, established.

The 29 gal has a black sand substrate, guppies and high fin platies, 2
bristle nose plecos and Cory cats. The filters are a canister and hang on
the back filter.

I added a shop light to the tank hood for lighting and have 2 hagen DIY co2
plus a 2 liter diy bottle. I would like to have a planted tank, a
successful planted tank. I just ordered more plants that have not arrived
yet.

My 75 gal tank has a gravel substrate, a wet dry inside the tank filter, (I
have seen these filters in salt water tanks). It is a black box with 2
chambers and a powerhead with a sponge filter.

I have another powerhead sponge filter. It currently has a few guppies, a
high fin pleco and 2 bristle nose plecos. I plan to add angel fish. I
added a shop light and 4 2liter dIY CO2 bottles.

Any advice on a successful planted tank? I had considered an Oscar, but was
unsure if a 75 gal was large enough and had concerns over the Oscar
demolishing plants. I may go with angel fish. I do a 30% water change
weekly. I really want a fairly low maintenance planted tank. I tried
amazon sword plants, before I added the extra lighting and they didn't
survive long. Thanks for any help or suggestions. The ph is 8, we have
liquid rock. I plan to fertilize after I set up the plants.

Nitrite, ammonia 0 nitrate in the 75 is 20, but I clean regularly. I used
to have 3 blood parrots but when they died, I just kept a few guppies to
keep he tank regulated.

Tiggy

Thank You.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17225 From: Terry Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re automatic feeders
Can anyone recommend an auto feeder that would be suitable for a 180
gal tank ?

Tia
Terry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17226 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
I would love to do that but the stand itself is somehow sealed to the
floor and can not be moved at all. Not without breaking the stand which
we have already done in trying. =(
L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank



Leveling the stand is the best way to go--don't just try to level the
tank
alone. Check out you local lumberyard and see if you can get a few cedar
shakes (they are used for siding and roofing in some parts of the US). I
find that these work very well for leveling projects and they have a
long
lifespan. I bought a bundle about 20 years ago, and still have a lot of
that
bundle left, so see if you can use your best poor teacher, it's for the
kids
arguments and gain a few pieces. Then just push them under the legs of
the
stand until the tank is level, and trim and refill the tank.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 4:39 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans backwards
at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and running
for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand and
tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor somehow.
The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline tubing and
electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in between.

I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
opinions first.

Thanks again,
Leslie








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17227 From: hank voss Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans
backwards
> at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and
running
> for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand
and
> tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor
somehow.
==================
If thie is an all glass tank the best way to level it if you cant
free the legs of the stand is to get a peice of thick plywood (cut
to size of tank)place it on the stand and then shim the plywood to
level state and then place tank on top of that.That way you have
full support of the tank.
Hank






> The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline
tubing and
> electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in
between.
>
> I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
> opinions first.
>
> Thanks again,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17228 From: MitziZot@aol.com Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: plants
have a 75 gal and 29 gal tank, established.
The 29 gal has a black sand substrate, guppies and high fin platies, 2
bristle nose plecos and Cory cats. The filters are a canister and hang on the
back filter.
I added a shop light to the tank hood for lighting and have 2 hagen DIY co2
plus a 2 liter diy bottle. I would like to have a planted tank, a successful
planted tank. I just ordered more plants that have not arrived yet.
My 75 gal tank has a gravel substrate, a wet dry inside the tank filter, (I
have seen these filters in salt water tanks). It is a black box with 2
chambers and a powerhead with a sponge filter.
I have another powerhead sponge filter. It currently has a few guppies, a
high fin pleco and 2 bristle nose plecos. I plan to add angel fish. I added
a shop light and 4 2liter dIY CO2 bottles.
Any advice on a successful planted tank? I had considered an Oscar, but was
unsure if a 75 gal was large enough and had concerns over the Oscar
demolishing plants. I may go with angel fish. I do a 30% water change weekly. I
really want a fairly low maintenance planted tank. I tried amazon sword
plants, before I added the extra lighting and they didn't survive long. Thanks for
any help or suggestions. The ph is 8, we have liquid rock. I plan to
fertilize after I set up the plants.
Nitrite, ammonia 0 nitrate in the 75 is 20, but I clean regularly. I used
to have 3 blood parrots but when they died, I just kept a few guppies to keep
he tank regulated.
Tiggy
Thank You.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17229 From: hank voss Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I would love to do that but the stand itself is somehow sealed to the
> floor and can not be moved at all. Not without breaking the stand
which
> we have already done in trying. =(
> L
> =====================

Did you say you broke the stand> If so be careful 75 gals.is a lot of
weight on a broken stand.You may have to replace it.
Hank






>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17230 From: Evita Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
I have to agree this stand really needs to be replaced. I was wondering if the kids would like to get involved and have a possible fund raiser for an new stand. If the stand is un-level to begin with and has been also damaged it would be a disaster waiting to happen if you filled such a large tank. Maybe you could even find a parent that is a good Carpenter to build you a new wood stand at cost even. I have even heard of local companies donating stuff for free to schools and churches. After it was set up you could have a small plax made saying stand donated by (Whom ever) The goodwill advertisement alone might be more to their business than anything they could do. Our local church needed a new 9 ft artificial tree. A committee went to a local hardware store to see if they would be willing to sell us one at cost. After talking to the owner he decided to donate the tree. Evita

hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote: --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I would love to do that but the stand itself is somehow sealed to the
> floor and can not be moved at all. Not without breaking the stand
which
> we have already done in trying. =(
> L
> =====================

Did you say you broke the stand> If so be careful 75 gals.is a lot of
weight on a broken stand.You may have to replace it.
Hank

>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17231 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: plants
YOu need a better substrate than just gravel. The roots need to be
able to spread and get nutrition from the substrate. I mix a
combination of rinsed peat, laterite, a bit of vermiculite and play or
soft sand together with water till it's all doughy. If you already
have gravel down, just tuck this muck into coffee filters, and wrap it
with string around the roots of the plant, then dig the hole where you
want the plant and tuck it all down in the gravel and cover up the soil
ball. IT's best to get a nice uniform layer, though.

Don't give all parts of your tank the same amount of light. Some
plants do better in lower lighting, some do better in higher. When a
plant dies back, don't assume it's dead. Many plants need dormant
periods, and will come back.

Rather like choosing fish, try to stick with what works for you,
instead of doing elaborate setups to force the issue :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17232 From: chris topher Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: plants
i have had luck with just gravel, though took awhile
to find the right plants...

most succesful are annubias, wendt, various crypts,
java fern, and my favorite bulbitas...

all of which spread well and are availible at:
aquariumplants.com and aquariumgarden.com

tend to plant fairly heavily and very very rarely
siphon the gravel or do water changes...

but thats just my dumb luck...

there are also various bulbs that look nice...

woody

--- cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
wrote:

> YOu need a better substrate than just gravel. The
> roots need to be
> able to spread and get nutrition from the substrate.
> I mix a
> combination of rinsed peat, laterite, a bit of
> vermiculite and play or
> soft sand together with water till it's all doughy.
> If you already
> have gravel down, just tuck this muck into coffee
> filters, and wrap it
> with string around the roots of the plant, then dig
> the hole where you
> want the plant and tuck it all down in the gravel
> and cover up the soil
> ball. IT's best to get a nice uniform layer,
> though.
>
> Don't give all parts of your tank the same amount of
> light. Some
> plants do better in lower lighting, some do better
> in higher. When a
> plant dies back, don't assume it's dead. Many
> plants need dormant
> periods, and will come back.
>
> Rather like choosing fish, try to stick with what
> works for you,
> instead of doing elaborate setups to force the issue
> :)
>
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17233 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
what is the stand made of?

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, 14 June 2006 08:37
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank



I would love to do that but the stand itself is somehow sealed to the
floor and can not be moved at all. Not without breaking the stand which
we have already done in trying. =(
L

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

Leveling the stand is the best way to go--don't just try to level the
tank
alone. Check out you local lumberyard and see if you can get a few cedar
shakes (they are used for siding and roofing in some parts of the US). I
find that these work very well for leveling projects and they have a
long
lifespan. I bought a bundle about 20 years ago, and still have a lot of
that
bundle left, so see if you can use your best poor teacher, it's for the
kids
arguments and gain a few pieces. Then just push them under the legs of
the
stand until the tank is level, and trim and refill the tank.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 4:39 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans backwards
at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and running
for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand and
tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor somehow.
The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline tubing and
electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in between.

I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
opinions first.

Thanks again,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17234 From: aclaar877 Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Garden Peat OK for Aquarium Use?
Has anyone here used the peat sold at garden stores for their aquarium
use? I have some large tanks and some tetra breeding operations going
on, and wondered if the cheaper garden variety peat was suitable.
Buying box after box of the Fluval peat gets expensive.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17235 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Eric,
I'm not certain but it appears to be wood. It could be particle board
but I think wood. The cabinet doors are solid wood so I would guess
that the rest of it is.
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Rev. Eric Roberts
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 1:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank



what is the stand made of?

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, 14 June 2006 08:37
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

I would love to do that but the stand itself is somehow sealed to the
floor and can not be moved at all. Not without breaking the stand which
we have already done in trying. =(
L

<http://groups.
<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

Leveling the stand is the best way to go--don't just try to level the
tank
alone. Check out you local lumberyard and see if you can get a few cedar
shakes (they are used for siding and roofing in some parts of the US). I
find that these work very well for leveling projects and they have a
long
lifespan. I bought a bundle about 20 years ago, and still have a lot of
that
bundle left, so see if you can use your best poor teacher, it's for the
kids
arguments and gain a few pieces. Then just push them under the legs of
the
stand until the tank is level, and trim and refill the tank.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 4:39 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans backwards
at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and running
for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand and
tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor somehow.
The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline tubing and
electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in between.

I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
opinions first.

Thanks again,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17236 From: hank voss Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Garden Peat OK for Aquarium Use?
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aclaar877" <aclaar877@...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone here used the peat sold at garden stores for their
aquarium
> use? I have some large tanks and some tetra breeding operations
going
> on, and wondered if the cheaper garden variety peat was suitable.
> Buying box after box of the Fluval peat gets expensive.
>
\
=========================
Ive used garden peat for many years with no bad results.For the last
15 yrs been using canadian peat as the german peat is hard to find.
Just read the lable to make sure no fungicide or chem. are added.

Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17237 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
so its like a lab stand in a science class rather than a table?

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, 14 June 2006 14:00
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank



Eric,
I'm not certain but it appears to be wood. It could be particle board
but I think wood. The cabinet doors are solid wood so I would guess
that the rest of it is.
Leslie

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Rev. Eric Roberts
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 1:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

what is the stand made of?

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, 14 June 2006 08:37
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

I would love to do that but the stand itself is somehow sealed to the
floor and can not be moved at all. Not without breaking the stand which
we have already done in trying. =(
L

<http://groups.
<http://groups.
<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

Leveling the stand is the best way to go--don't just try to level the
tank
alone. Check out you local lumberyard and see if you can get a few cedar
shakes (they are used for siding and roofing in some parts of the US). I
find that these work very well for leveling projects and they have a
long
lifespan. I bought a bundle about 20 years ago, and still have a lot of
that
bundle left, so see if you can use your best poor teacher, it's for the
kids
arguments and gain a few pieces. Then just push them under the legs of
the
stand until the tank is level, and trim and refill the tank.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 4:39 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans backwards
at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and running
for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand and
tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor somehow.
The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline tubing and
electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in between.

I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
opinions first.

Thanks again,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17238 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Then you have no option but to level the tank itself. This must be done
carefully. You need to support the tank as it would be supported on a stand.
Yu will need to support the whole edge that is not supported by the stand.
If you do not do this, then you are faced with the same sort of problem you
are when the tank is not level, a premature failure of one or more seams.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 9:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

I would love to do that but the stand itself is somehow sealed to the
floor and can not be moved at all. Not without breaking the stand which
we have already done in trying. =(
L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank



Leveling the stand is the best way to go--don't just try to level the
tank
alone. Check out you local lumberyard and see if you can get a few cedar
shakes (they are used for siding and roofing in some parts of the US). I
find that these work very well for leveling projects and they have a
long
lifespan. I bought a bundle about 20 years ago, and still have a lot of
that
bundle left, so see if you can use your best poor teacher, it's for the
kids
arguments and gain a few pieces. Then just push them under the legs of
the
stand until the tank is level, and trim and refill the tank.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 4:39 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Unlevel tank

I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans backwards
at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and running
for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand and
tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor somehow.
The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline tubing and
electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in between.

I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
opinions first.

Thanks again,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17239 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
this is true , my daughter found room for her own Tank
seen I wouldnt let her put cichlids in mine
holly

>From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RE: RE: [AquaticLife] Hello
>Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 22:11:03 -0400
>
>Karen,
>
>The number of fish you have in that tank is big problem number 1. You are
>either going to need to get a larger tank, or remove some of the fish. You
>mentioned 10-12 fish. Even if they were each less than one inch long, you
>have far too many fish. You mentioned danios in your post, which gives you
>another whammy since they are so active.
>
>I'd go to your store, first opportunity and ask them to get you some
>Aqua-Tru kits. I like the Aqua-Tru fro a couple of reasons. With the vial,
>it is hard not to get a good match on the color the test gives you, and
>they
>use dated powdered reagents.
>
>While you are at the store, check to see if they will take some of your
>fish
>back. The population in the tank needs to be reduced. You probably want to
>keep about 3 of the danios along with the algae eater.
>
>The algal problem you are experiencing now is probably the only thing
>standing between you and disaster in your tank. You will want to start
>daily
>water changes of 50% or so, until things get under control. Treat the water
>with Amquel like I mentioned yesterday. As you get the tank cycled and
>reduce the population, you should see a lessening of your algal problem and
>it will eventually disappear. Then you can start reading about plants in
>the
>Baensch Atlas and start planning where you will put a larger tank. (Ask the
>people here--there is always room for another tank <g>.)
>
>
>\\Steve//
>-----Original Message-----
>From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>Behalf Of Karen Millett
>Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 9:52 AM
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: RE: [AquaticLife] Hello
>
>
> >
> > From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> > Date: 2006/06/12 Mon PM 10:11:37 EST
> > To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Hello
> >
> > Algae requires light and food to grow. You are not too specific about
>the
> > type of algae you have, is it green water, stringy, or carpet like?
>
>
> It is bright green in the water and dark when I take out the filter to
>clean it. It is stringy, it hangs on the filter outtake like long streamers
>if I can't catch it in time to clean it off and it is hard to get off too.
>It gets into the rocks and looks stringy and slimy there too. When it
>starts
>on the glass it looks like little green spots and sometimes they tend to
>look a little furry. I think it's the same stuff getting on out live plant
>and ornament. It turns the ends of the plants black andd the fake grass on
>the ornament black as well.
>
>
>
>The
> > problem with algae eaters is that they like specific kinds of algae,
>and,
> > unless really hungry, do not touch other species. It sounds like you
>have
>a
> > smallish tank.
>
> I was told by my fish store that if worst came to worst and I could get
>rid
>of it completely to get another one. I used to have a "weather loach" when
>I
>had goldfish and he ate everything, this one is a tad fussier. Though once
>I
>got a different kind of food, he seems to be eating more.
>
>
>
>You do not mention how many fish you have in it, or whether
> > you have cycled the tank at all.
> >
>
>I have roughly 10 to 12, they won't stay still long enought for me to count
>them. We lost a few a bit ago to the filter intake. I have changed the
>water
>once completely cause the algea was so thick on the glass you couldn't see
>in and the rocks were completely coated and everything was very difficult
>to
>get it off of. I have changed 20% of the water and used the conditioners
>since then, a couple of times I think.
>
>
>
> > If you do not have live plants (other than the algae, of course), the
>first
> > step would be to reduce the amount of light your tank is getting.
>
>
>We do have one live plant, we used to have two but it died. We don't know
>why, but the other one is really healthy.
>
>Just use
> > the light for when you are viewing the fish, without plants, you can
>keep
>it
> > off all other times. If your room is very bright, you may want to cover
>the
> > tank with a blanket during the day to prevent the ambient sunlight from
> > reaching it.
> >
> > Think about your feeding habits. How much food are you giving the fish?
>
> I feed them a little in the morning and a little in the evening.
>
>
>Is
> > it more than they can eat in a couple of minutes? If so, you are feeding
>too
> > much. Cut back on the food. Do the fish miss a lot of the food when you
> > place it in the tank?
>
>
>Not the Danios, they go after everything they see moving. They usually eat
>it up quite good, I feel.
>
>It may be sinking too fast for them, try a different
> > type of food--flakes if you are using pellets or granules. Different
>foods
> > will have different rates of sinking.
> >
>We use the nutrafin max, in the granules, we used to use the flake food,
>but
>I got the other becuase it was supposed to help in algea reduction.
>
>
> > What is your pH? What is your ammonia? Your nitrates and nitrites?
>
>
>That I have no idea on. We have no kits to test the water but if wean't
>clear it up we are going to taek samples to out pet store to see what is in
>the water.
>
>
> These
> > are important measures, especially when you are having a problem in your
> > tank. Forego the filter packs with the carbon and zeolite in them. For
>the
> > most part, you should not need either. Just use an insert that is only
> > polyester fiber. If you do have an ammonia problem, use a product such
>as
> > Amquel not the plus version) to help control the ammonia. It will help
>the
> > necessary bacteria get established while converting the ammonia to a
> > substance that is not harmful to your fish.
> >
> > I just re-read your message, and you have a 5 gallon tank (likely 5.5
> > gallons) and that can be a tough size to deal with. You should actually
>get
> > the biggest tank you have the room and budget for. I've kept 5 gallon
>tanks
> > before, and they can be the devil to properly care for--and I like to
>think
> > I know what I am doing. The 5 gallon is only good for keeping a few
> > relatively small fish in. it is hard to maintain a stable temperature,
>or
>a
> > stable level of anything in.
> >
>
>I had thought a bigger tank would be good but we just don't have the room
>for a bigger one right now, that's why we got the small one to start out
>with. We didn't think a small one would be so hard to deal with.
>
> > I'd recommend a good book to help you out. A book I like to recommend to
> > novices is the Baensch Atlas of Aquarium fishes, Volume 1. It has a good
> > section on setting up the tank, a decent section on live plants, and
>tons
>of
> > fish pictured in it. If there are used book stores near you, you can
> > probably find a copy fairly inexpensively. It normally sells for around
>$40
> > US.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
>
>
>Thanks for the info. Karen.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>On
> > Behalf Of micheal03us
> > Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 3:28 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello
> >
> > Hi,
> > My name is Karen and I joined the group hoping to find someone who
> > can help me with my algea problem and to share the enjoyment of fish
> > with others. I haven't had my tank long but since we had to start
> > getting a different size of media for the filter we have had nothing
> > but trouble with with green algea. It is a bright green and very
> > hard to get rid of. I tried all the suggestions given to me and even
> > have an algea eater but it still keeps coming back.
> > It's gotten so that I have have to clean the filter and the media
> > every two days just to get rid of it. I'm afraid that if I can't
> > find a way to get of it, it's going to make my fish sick.
> > The filter I have came with the 5 gallon kit, the media, the
> > ammonia and charcoal bags had large pieces in them and filled the
> > place where they go nicely and seemd to really work, there was no
> > signs of algea and we used the stuff that came with the kit when
> > changing the water. Now, when we get the media, it comes in the bags
> > the pices are very tiny and do not fill up the entire chamber that
> > thye go in and I wonder if that is the problem, that this new stuff
> > isn't filtering like the bigger pieces did.
> > It has been a couple of weeks since I cleaned the rocks and I can
> > see it getting into them again and turning them green, it won't be
> > long before it starts on the glass behind the heater.
> > I don't know what to do, we have a live plant and it's nto near a
> > window. I love my fish and I don't want to see them get sick cause
> > of this stufrf. Is there anything I can do to stop this?
> > I have a digital camera and once I get the hang of taking pics of
> > them with it, I'll share some pics of my cuties. Have a great day,
> > Karen.
>

_________________________________________________________________
New year, new job � there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK
http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fninemsn%2Eseek%2Ecom%2Eau&_t=752315885&_r=Jan05_tagline&_m=EXT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17240 From: Kevin Batey Date: 6/14/2006
Subject: Re: Garden Peat OK for Aquarium Use?
I've been using Sphagnum brand peat moss from WalMart
- just be sure that what you use has NO additives, such as fertilizer...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17241 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
If replacing the stand is not an option, probably the best way to
level and support the tank as evenly as possible is to first install
two (2) sheets of 3/4" marine plywood (painted, preferably with
polyurethane, to seal all pores) up to about an 1/8" wider and longer
than the tank, between the tank and the stand. The plywood sheeting
can then be shimmed at short intervals, with the tank being as evenly
supported as if it were on a table. Two sheets of this thickness
plywood supporting the tank will ensure there will be no warpage, and
the wood will take up any unevenness. This, to be considered only
after the stand is considered safe and/or has been repaired to the
point of supporting the nearly 625 pounds. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I am revamping a school aquarium. It's a 55 gal and it leans
backwards
> at a small angel against a concrete post. It's been full and
running
> for well over a year without problems but I'm hesitant. The stand
and
> tank can not be moved as the stand has been sealed to the floor
somehow.
> The tank is leaning on the post so hard that there is airline
tubing and
> electrical cords that I can not remove as they are squished in
between.
>
> I am thinking to go ahead and fill it as is but wanted to get any
> opinions first.
>
> Thanks again,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17242 From: Karen Millett Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Right now, though this is not an option, we are in the middle of renovations and really do not have the room for a second tank. It's just not an easy thing to do with the mess our house is in, with stuff from room in the other rooms. Maybe when things settle down we might see about finding room for a second tank but not right now. Karen.
>
> From: "Hollyer Cart" <holladeen480@...>
> Date: 2006/06/15 Thu AM 12:50:30 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: RE: [AquaticLife] Hello
>
>
> this is true , my daughter found room for her own Tank
> seen I wouldnt let her put cichlids in mine
> holly
>
> >From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> >Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> >Subject: RE: RE: [AquaticLife] Hello
> >Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 22:11:03 -0400
> >
> >Karen,
> >
> >The number of fish you have in that tank is big problem number 1. You are
> >either going to need to get a larger tank, or remove some of the fish. You
> >mentioned 10-12 fish. Even if they were each less than one inch long, you
> >have far too many fish. You mentioned danios in your post, which gives you
> >another whammy since they are so active.
> >
> >I'd go to your store, first opportunity and ask them to get you some
> >Aqua-Tru kits. I like the Aqua-Tru fro a couple of reasons. With the vial,
> >it is hard not to get a good match on the color the test gives you, and
> >they
> >use dated powdered reagents.
> >
> >While you are at the store, check to see if they will take some of your
> >fish
> >back. The population in the tank needs to be reduced. You probably want to
> >keep about 3 of the danios along with the algae eater.
> >
> >The algal problem you are experiencing now is probably the only thing
> >standing between you and disaster in your tank. You will want to start
> >daily
> >water changes of 50% or so, until things get under control. Treat the water
> >with Amquel like I mentioned yesterday. As you get the tank cycled and
> >reduce the population, you should see a lessening of your algal problem and
> >it will eventually disappear. Then you can start reading about plants in
> >the
> >Baensch Atlas and start planning where you will put a larger tank. (Ask the
> >people here--there is always room for another tank <g>.)
> >
> >
> >\\Steve//
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> >Behalf Of Karen Millett
> >Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 9:52 AM
> >To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: RE: [AquaticLife] Hello
> >
> >
> > >
> > > From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> > > Date: 2006/06/12 Mon PM 10:11:37 EST
> > > To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Hello
> > >
> > > Algae requires light and food to grow. You are not too specific about
> >the
> > > type of algae you have, is it green water, stringy, or carpet like?
> >
> >
> > It is bright green in the water and dark when I take out the filter to
> >clean it. It is stringy, it hangs on the filter outtake like long streamers
> >if I can't catch it in time to clean it off and it is hard to get off too.
> >It gets into the rocks and looks stringy and slimy there too. When it
> >starts
> >on the glass it looks like little green spots and sometimes they tend to
> >look a little furry. I think it's the same stuff getting on out live plant
> >and ornament. It turns the ends of the plants black andd the fake grass on
> >the ornament black as well.
> >
> >
> >
> >The
> > > problem with algae eaters is that they like specific kinds of algae,
> >and,
> > > unless really hungry, do not touch other species. It sounds like you
> >have
> >a
> > > smallish tank.
> >
> > I was told by my fish store that if worst came to worst and I could get
> >rid
> >of it completely to get another one. I used to have a "weather loach" when
> >I
> >had goldfish and he ate everything, this one is a tad fussier. Though once
> >I
> >got a different kind of food, he seems to be eating more.
> >
> >
> >
> >You do not mention how many fish you have in it, or whether
> > > you have cycled the tank at all.
> > >
> >
> >I have roughly 10 to 12, they won't stay still long enought for me to count
> >them. We lost a few a bit ago to the filter intake. I have changed the
> >water
> >once completely cause the algea was so thick on the glass you couldn't see
> >in and the rocks were completely coated and everything was very difficult
> >to
> >get it off of. I have changed 20% of the water and used the conditioners
> >since then, a couple of times I think.
> >
> >
> >
> > > If you do not have live plants (other than the algae, of course), the
> >first
> > > step would be to reduce the amount of light your tank is getting.
> >
> >
> >We do have one live plant, we used to have two but it died. We don't know
> >why, but the other one is really healthy.
> >
> >Just use
> > > the light for when you are viewing the fish, without plants, you can
> >keep
> >it
> > > off all other times. If your room is very bright, you may want to cover
> >the
> > > tank with a blanket during the day to prevent the ambient sunlight from
> > > reaching it.
> > >
> > > Think about your feeding habits. How much food are you giving the fish?
> >
> > I feed them a little in the morning and a little in the evening.
> >
> >
> >Is
> > > it more than they can eat in a couple of minutes? If so, you are feeding
> >too
> > > much. Cut back on the food. Do the fish miss a lot of the food when you
> > > place it in the tank?
> >
> >
> >Not the Danios, they go after everything they see moving. They usually eat
> >it up quite good, I feel.
> >
> >It may be sinking too fast for them, try a different
> > > type of food--flakes if you are using pellets or granules. Different
> >foods
> > > will have different rates of sinking.
> > >
> >We use the nutrafin max, in the granules, we used to use the flake food,
> >but
> >I got the other becuase it was supposed to help in algea reduction.
> >
> >
> > > What is your pH? What is your ammonia? Your nitrates and nitrites?
> >
> >
> >That I have no idea on. We have no kits to test the water but if wean't
> >clear it up we are going to taek samples to out pet store to see what is in
> >the water.
> >
> >
> > These
> > > are important measures, especially when you are having a problem in your
> > > tank. Forego the filter packs with the carbon and zeolite in them. For
> >the
> > > most part, you should not need either. Just use an insert that is only
> > > polyester fiber. If you do have an ammonia problem, use a product such
> >as
> > > Amquel not the plus version) to help control the ammonia. It will help
> >the
> > > necessary bacteria get established while converting the ammonia to a
> > > substance that is not harmful to your fish.
> > >
> > > I just re-read your message, and you have a 5 gallon tank (likely 5.5
> > > gallons) and that can be a tough size to deal with. You should actually
> >get
> > > the biggest tank you have the room and budget for. I've kept 5 gallon
> >tanks
> > > before, and they can be the devil to properly care for--and I like to
> >think
> > > I know what I am doing. The 5 gallon is only good for keeping a few
> > > relatively small fish in. it is hard to maintain a stable temperature,
> >or
> >a
> > > stable level of anything in.
> > >
> >
> >I had thought a bigger tank would be good but we just don't have the room
> >for a bigger one right now, that's why we got the small one to start out
> >with. We didn't think a small one would be so hard to deal with.
> >
> > > I'd recommend a good book to help you out. A book I like to recommend to
> > > novices is the Baensch Atlas of Aquarium fishes, Volume 1. It has a good
> > > section on setting up the tank, a decent section on live plants, and
> >tons
> >of
> > > fish pictured in it. If there are used book stores near you, you can
> > > probably find a copy fairly inexpensively. It normally sells for around
> >$40
> > > US.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> >
> >
> >Thanks for the info. Karen.
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> >On
> > > Behalf Of micheal03us
> > > Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 3:28 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > > My name is Karen and I joined the group hoping to find someone who
> > > can help me with my algea problem and to share the enjoyment of fish
> > > with others. I haven't had my tank long but since we had to start
> > > getting a different size of media for the filter we have had nothing
> > > but trouble with with green algea. It is a bright green and very
> > > hard to get rid of. I tried all the suggestions given to me and even
> > > have an algea eater but it still keeps coming back.
> > > It's gotten so that I have have to clean the filter and the media
> > > every two days just to get rid of it. I'm afraid that if I can't
> > > find a way to get of it, it's going to make my fish sick.
> > > The filter I have came with the 5 gallon kit, the media, the
> > > ammonia and charcoal bags had large pieces in them and filled the
> > > place where they go nicely and seemd to really work, there was no
> > > signs of algea and we used the stuff that came with the kit when
> > > changing the water. Now, when we get the media, it comes in the bags
> > > the pices are very tiny and do not fill up the entire chamber that
> > > thye go in and I wonder if that is the problem, that this new stuff
> > > isn't filtering like the bigger pieces did.
> > > It has been a couple of weeks since I cleaned the rocks and I can
> > > see it getting into them again and turning them green, it won't be
> > > long before it starts on the glass behind the heater.
> > > I don't know what to do, we have a live plant and it's nto near a
> > > window. I love my fish and I don't want to see them get sick cause
> > > of this stufrf. Is there anything I can do to stop this?
> > > I have a digital camera and once I get the hang of taking pics of
> > > them with it, I'll share some pics of my cuties. Have a great day,
> > > Karen.
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> New year, new job – there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK
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>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Adorabelle
http://svenslittlegirl.bravepages.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17243 From: mitzizot Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Plants
Thanks, the coffee filter was a great idea. I have my DIY CO2 and lighting up, and ordered some plants.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17244 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Xpost-- UGF question
I have a 29 gal (goldfish and a few pest snails) and a 55 gal (live bearer
and pest snails and 4 corries) right now there are no live plants in either
tank, though I hope eventually to be able to make them both planted (most
likely will be a year or better). I am considering using UGF in both (they
are both approx 1 yr cycled) until I am able to switch over to planted. I
am just wondering if the UGF would benefit my fishy friends, and didn't
know where else I could get info from others who have personal exp. with
using UGF.....
Sorry for the Xpost.
TIA
**********************************************
MM & MP, '73
Tricia, KG6PNC

A couple of sites for fun

http://www.neopets.com/refer.phtml?username=trycya

http://www.gopetslive.com/inviter/?Trycya
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17245 From: eastbroadtop2000 Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Fish illness.....
Hello im fairly new to the fish keeping hobby and discovered large
bubbles on my sucker fish. is this ick???

Photos of him are at
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/1fc7

If not ick what is it and what is the best way to treat him.
Contact me at lne660@...
Thanks
Paul Sternitzke
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17246 From: Len Date: 6/15/2006
Subject: Algea
I have a 20 tall fish tank and ever since I have set this take up
algae has been a problem. I clean it gets it under control and then
bam the wall are covered and the water is green. Any suggestions on
getting it under control.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17247 From: MitziZot@aol.com Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: angel fish
only see the short fin striped fish available locally. Do they still have
the veil tails, and black, blushing angel fish?
Tiggy



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17248 From: Karen Millett Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Algea
I have a problem with algea too. I have a 5 gallon tank. It started out good but the last while it grows it and I have a hard time keeping it under control. PLease see the group emails entitled "hello", posted from me "micheal03us" for some suggestions. Karen.
> From: "Len" <dhmicop@...>
> Date: 2006/06/15 Thu PM 08:11:07 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Algea
>
> I have a 20 tall fish tank and ever since I have set this take up
> algae has been a problem. I clean it gets it under control and then
> bam the wall are covered and the water is green. Any suggestions on
> getting it under control.
>
>
>
>
>

Adorabelle
http://svenslittlegirl.bravepages.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17249 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: angel fish
I wanted veils but couldn't find them locally. I ordered from Fosters
and Smith and they are wonderful, healthy and gorgeous. =)
~Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of MitziZot@...
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 4:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] angel fish



only see the short fin striped fish available locally. Do they still
have
the veil tails, and black, blushing angel fish?
Tiggy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17250 From: Ash Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1221
A great way to share experience & ask ?sis it just me or does the concept of an automatic feeder ruin the fun of keeping fish?
unless you were going on a long holiday i guess...
----- Original Message -----
Re automatic feeders
Posted by: "Terry" preciousgrin@... preciousgrin
Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:43 am (PST)
Can anyone recommend an auto feeder that would be suitable for a 180
gal tank ?

Tia
Terry

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17251 From: aclaar877 Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Algea
Unless you have live plants, I would just cut back drastically on the
time you have the lights on. In addition, do regular water changes.
I maintain my girlfriend's 16 gallon, and the light is on about 4-5
hours a day. No problem with algae.

If you have live plants, let us know. Then it's a more delicate
balancing act between light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide, which we
can elaborate on.

AC

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Len" <dhmicop@...> wrote:
>
> I have a 20 tall fish tank and ever since I have set this take up
> algae has been a problem. I clean it gets it under control and then
> bam the wall are covered and the water is green. Any suggestions on
> getting it under control.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17252 From: leonard stewart Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Algea
I do weekly water changes and the light is on to much as the tank is in the basement. It is on about 12 hours a day. It is home to 12 small angels which appear to be healthy and eat very good. My other tanks show no signs of algea and are on the same amount of time.

aclaar877 <aclaar877@...> wrote: Unless you have live plants, I would just cut back drastically on the
time you have the lights on. In addition, do regular water changes.
I maintain my girlfriend's 16 gallon, and the light is on about 4-5
hours a day. No problem with algae.

If you have live plants, let us know. Then it's a more delicate
balancing act between light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide, which we
can elaborate on.

AC

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Len" <dhmicop@...> wrote:
>
> I have a 20 tall fish tank and ever since I have set this take up
> algae has been a problem. I clean it gets it under control and then
> bam the wall are covered and the water is green. Any suggestions on
> getting it under control.
>






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football ’06 - Go with the leader. Start your league today!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17253 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Xpost-- UGF question
Tricia,

At this juncture, I'd not bother with the UGF. You would need to tear your
tank apart, put the plates in, then put everything back into place. Too much
work from my point of view, plus, from your post, it seems that your tank
does not have any particular difficulty. If you were just setting up the
tank, I'd say, fine, go for it, but in an established tank, forget it.

You are doing well to have only one goldfish in your 29. That is the right
way to stock that size tank. He should do well. He will probably do even
better when you plant the tank. He'll look at the plant and think
"LUNCH!!!!". Some plants may survive the attentions of your goldfish,
Anubias spp. Come to mind, but then you need to worry about his rooting in
the gravel, as most goldfish are wont to do. You may well want to consider
some artificial plants in the meanwhile, while you check out what may be
good to place with a goldfish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Tricia Wilkerson
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 12:56 PM
To: UniQuaria; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Xpost-- UGF question

I have a 29 gal (goldfish and a few pest snails) and a 55 gal (live bearer
and pest snails and 4 corries) right now there are no live plants in either
tank, though I hope eventually to be able to make them both planted (most
likely will be a year or better). I am considering using UGF in both (they
are both approx 1 yr cycled) until I am able to switch over to planted. I
am just wondering if the UGF would benefit my fishy friends, and didn't
know where else I could get info from others who have personal exp. with
using UGF.....
Sorry for the Xpost.
TIA
**********************************************
MM & MP, '73
Tricia, KG6PNC

A couple of sites for fun

http://www.neopets.com/refer.phtml?username=trycya

http://www.gopetslive.com/inviter/?Trycya
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17254 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Fish illness.....
That is definitely not ich on your fish. Ich is like salt crystals spread
over the body, and possibly the fins, of the fish.

Unfortunately, the photos you posted were not of sufficient quality, or
close enough to hazard a guess as to what your fish may have. Perhaps you
could give a better description of the symptoms you are seeing, someone may
be able to help you with it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of eastbroadtop2000
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 10:16 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish illness.....

Hello im fairly new to the fish keeping hobby and discovered large
bubbles on my sucker fish. is this ick???

Photos of him are at
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/1fc7

If not ick what is it and what is the best way to treat him.
Contact me at lne660@...
Thanks
Paul Sternitzke
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17255 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Fish illness.....
I thought the pictures were pretty good actually. It's obvious that
there are large white, circular growths of varying sizes all over the
fish. While they may not be "growths", there is no mistaking what they
look like which should be of great help to aid someone in a diagnosis.
Assuming of course that anyone has seen or heard of this which I myself
am personally mystified.
But again, I think the pictures are pretty good and I will fish around
the internet to see what I can come up with for you. =) I can't
gaurantee anything but I would like to at least try. I'm always eager
to learn of ailments so I will know of them if I ever see them again.
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 4:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Fish illness.....



That is definitely not ich on your fish. Ich is like salt crystals
spread
over the body, and possibly the fins, of the fish.

Unfortunately, the photos you posted were not of sufficient quality, or
close enough to hazard a guess as to what your fish may have. Perhaps
you
could give a better description of the symptoms you are seeing, someone
may
be able to help you with it.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of eastbroadtop2000
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 10:16 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish illness.....

Hello im fairly new to the fish keeping hobby and discovered large
bubbles on my sucker fish. is this ick???

Photos of him are at
http://ph.groups
<http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/1fc7>
yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/1fc7

If not ick what is it and what is the best way to treat him.
Contact me at lne660@earthlink. <mailto:lne660%40earthlink.net> net
Thanks
Paul Sternitzke







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17256 From: hank voss Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Fish illness.....
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "eastbroadtop2000" <lne660@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello im fairly new to the fish keeping hobby and discovered large
> bubbles on my sucker fish. is this ick???
>
> Photos of him are at
> http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/1fc7
>
> If not ick what is it and what is the best way to treat him.
> Contact me at lne660@...
> Thanks
> Paul Sternitzke
> =====================
Hi:
Photos really should be a closeup shot its rather hard to tell from
a distance.Ive seen similiar lumps on plecos,hoplos and certain large
cichlids they could be cysts or a parasite never kept the fish that
had long enough to findout what they were i disposed of the fish
first.They dont seem to be contagious though.
Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17257 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Algea
There is another, recent thread here about algae. Algae will grow in the
presence of light and food. If you provided enough of both, you can have a
problem with algae. Reducing one will help you get it under control,
reducing both will nearly eradicate algae.

You do not mention what kind of algae you have. Some types can be treated
with drugs, and that will cause the removal of those types, but, unless you
determine what caused it to grow, it will make a comeback. There are some
types where, to truly rid yourself of them, you must tear down the tank and
sterilize it. However, most will respond by reducing their presence if you
reduce the amount of light the tank receives, and you reduce the food they
are feeding on. The most important food to remove are the nitrogenous wastes
that occur and are produced as part of the tank's cycle. If you let your
nitrates get out of control, you can have an algal outbreak.

Phosphates are an important part of most algal diets. They can be introduced
via your water supply (difficult to deal with) or via the foods you are
feeding your fish (change foods).

If you do not already have test kits, you should get them and use them (I
like the Aqua-Tru brand.) They will help pinpoint the nitrogenous products
in your water, and this will aid you in reducing the ones that may be
causing your problem.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Len
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 8:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Algea

I have a 20 tall fish tank and ever since I have set this take up
algae has been a problem. I clean it gets it under control and then
bam the wall are covered and the water is green. Any suggestions on
getting it under control.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17258 From: Dawn Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Hi My Name Is Dawn
Hi, I am expecting a Beta Fish to arrive next week. I have a five
galoon tank, with a lite and a whisper filter. I have a few trumpet
snails but, I want some shrimp. Please do not tell me to get some
Ghost Shrimp. LOL I have tried that before and it does not work. I
need a shimpt that has a LONG life span, gets along well with Betas
and eats flake food. I know they exist as I have seen them. LOL I
just was too dumb to put them on my favorite. It is great to be a part
of this group. Love, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17259 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
See if there is a local freecycle and ask if there is one collecting dust in a garage. I occasionally pick up tanks and stands from people cleaning out the garage.

Also check craigslist.org, if there is a list local to you, and see if anyone has one for a reasonable price. You might even be able to swap for a smaller tank with a stand. Something like a 55 or 40 gallon. Once people hear it is for a school they usually give things up a bit cheaper.

Might even try the local newspaper to see if one is available.

Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17260 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/16/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
I posted this a day or two back. Are all posts taking this long or I am the
only one being moderated?
Mike

In a message dated 6/16/2006 11:36:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Deenerz@... writes:



See if there is a local freecycle and ask if there is one collecting dust in
a garage. I occasionally pick up tanks and stands from people cleaning out
the garage.

Also check craigslist.org, if there is a list local to you, and see if
anyone has one for a reasonable price. You might even be able to swap for a
smaller tank with a stand. Something like a 55 or 40 gallon. Once people hear it is
for a school they usually give things up a bit cheaper.

Might even try the local newspaper to see if one is available.

Mike









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17261 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1221
might make it so you can clean the tank with out being swarmed by fish lol
holly


>From: "Ash" <ash_nug@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: "No Reply"
><notify-dg-AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>,<AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Digest Number 1221
>Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 02:12:55 +1000
>
>A great way to share experience & ask ?sis it just me or does the concept
>of an automatic feeder ruin the fun of keeping fish?
>unless you were going on a long holiday i guess...
> ----- Original Message -----
> Re automatic feeders
> Posted by: "Terry" preciousgrin@... preciousgrin
> Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:43 am (PST)
> Can anyone recommend an auto feeder that would be suitable for a 180
> gal tank ?
>
> Tia
> Terry
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

_________________________________________________________________
New year, new job � there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK
http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fninemsn%2Eseek%2Ecom%2Eau&_t=752315885&_r=Jan05_tagline&_m=EXT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17262 From: yan_ederson13 Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: Buon giorno
Hi to u all...i haven` t yet any aquarium but the experience of being
among people that do have onhe is something pretty enlightening and
practical i have to admit....thank u all..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17263 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Hi Mike,

It has something to do with Yahoo!'s new group mail deal. Your
message was stuck in the "Spam?" box, I do not know how or why,
again - it has everything to do w/ Yahoo.

You have been unmoderated for a couple years now, so it doesn't make
any sense at all.

[Unmoderated]

"Posting Messages: Override: This member may post without moderation"

I have not been as active with the group as I used to be.

We could benefit from some more Moderators to help keep the messages
from being delayed.

Anybody interested or available in being a group moderator?

Thanks,
Aaron


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> I posted this a day or two back. Are all posts taking this long
or I am the
> only one being moderated?
> Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17264 From: harry perry Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: Re: Buon giorno/yan
Talk to us about your dreams, maybe we can help

Harry.

yan_ederson13 <yan_ederson13@...> wrote: Hi to u all...i haven` t yet any aquarium but the experience of being
among people that do have onhe is something pretty enlightening and
practical i have to admit....thank u all..






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Ring'em or ping'em. Make PC-to-phone calls as low as 1¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17265 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: new Yahoo! Groups email (was - Re: Unlevel tank)
[(*)] There's something new. Check out the new Yahoo! Groups email.
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=41335/*http://groups.yahoo.com/local/newemai\
l.html>

http://groups.yahoo.com/local/newemail.html
<http://groups.yahoo.com/local/newemail.html>

Improved Message Search. Now you can quickly sort through message
archives with the new Yahoo! Groups message search. With the "advanced
search" feature, find message by date or author.

Check out the new Yahoo! Groups email.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/local/newemail.html>

New! Compose your message with Rich-Text Editor (Beta)
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post?referer=/group/AquaticLi\
fe/join%3fyguid%3d141033912%26finish%3dmod&use_rte=1> .


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron R. Martin"
<anonymous122899@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> It has something to do with Yahoo!'s new group mail deal. Your
> message was stuck in the "Spam?" box, I do not know how or why,
> again - it has everything to do w/ Yahoo.
>
> You have been unmoderated for a couple years now, so it doesn't make
> any sense at all.
>
> [Unmoderated]
>
> "Posting Messages: Override: This member may post without moderation"
>
> I have not been as active with the group as I used to be.
>
> We could benefit from some more Moderators to help keep the messages
> from being delayed.
>
> Anybody interested or available in being a group moderator?
>
> Thanks,
> Aaron
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@ wrote:
> >
> >
> > I posted this a day or two back. Are all posts taking this long
> or I am the
> > only one being moderated?
> > Mike
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17266 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/17/2006
Subject: Re: Unlevel tank
Thanks for the reply.
Yes, Yahoo has been messing with things a bit lately.

Mike

In a message dated 6/17/2006 9:13:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
anonymous122899@... writes:



Hi Mike,

It has something to do with Yahoo!'s new group mail deal. Your
message was stuck in the "Spam?" box, I do not know how or why,
again - it has everything to do w/ Yahoo.

You have been unmoderated for a couple years now, so it doesn't make
any sense at all.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17267 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/18/2006
Subject: Newly arrived angel is sick
I received two angels last Wednesday and the smaller of the two has not
eaten at all, that I have seen, and hangs around the top of the water
constantly. When it sees the larger angel, the sickly one swims along
with it for a while then goes to the top again after only a few seconds.

It will swim up to the food as if interested but then backs away.

I'm thinking to quarentine her from the other and treat for internal
parasites w/ water meds. I tried to feed antiparasitic food but since
she won't eat it can't do any good. I tried mushing it up and
everything.

I have Clout and Jungle general cure for parasites. I am thinking to
put her a in a quarentine 10 gallon and then treating it with either of
the two meds. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17268 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: Re: Newly arrived angel is sick
Leslie, Yes, isolate the fish in the 10 gallon quarantine tank for
treatment, even though its possible that the other Angel may show the
same symptoms in time. You'll just have to keep an eye on the larger
one. Clout has been used for this illness (which appears to be the
onset of Hexamita), which has apparently resulted in success although
this medication is a bit harsh with the slightest overdosing being
harmful. If you care to try it, since you already have it, just be
careful I believe the dosage is one (1) tablet per 10 gallons but to
be sure, check the directions. The medication of choice is
Metronidazole which can be found offered from SeaChem. The better
medication is Hex-Out (by Aquarium Products), containing both
Metronidazole and Flagyl, along with Imidazole and Methyl-5-Nitro.
As there's no danger in overdosing with Metronidazole, best results
are had when used in combination with Internal Parasite Guard (by
Jungle Labs), which also contains Metronidazole. For most
effectiveness increase the temperature to 93o (regardless of which
medication used), and always increase the aeration when boosting the
temperature above normal. It may take two treatments before you see
results. Feed Pepso (by Jungle Labs) medicated food as the appetite
comes back. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I received two angels last Wednesday and the smaller of the two has
not
> eaten at all, that I have seen, and hangs around the top of the
water
> constantly. When it sees the larger angel, the sickly one swims
along
> with it for a while then goes to the top again after only a few
seconds.
>
> It will swim up to the food as if interested but then backs away.
>
> I'm thinking to quarentine her from the other and treat for internal
> parasites w/ water meds. I tried to feed antiparasitic food but
since
> she won't eat it can't do any good. I tried mushing it up and
> everything.
>
> I have Clout and Jungle general cure for parasites. I am thinking
to
> put her a in a quarentine 10 gallon and then treating it with
either of
> the two meds. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> ~Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17269 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: locked mouth?
Hi all!
I have a weird problem, my firemouth swims around with his mouth wide
open and have done so for two days now. He doesn't eat, at least not
when I see it and he stays by himself most of the time. Does any of
you know why he's doing that, is that anything I can do?
thankful for answers
Magdalena
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17270 From: james bruce moat Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: Re: locked mouth?
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "eandtuta1924" <eandtuta1924@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all!
> I have a weird problem, my firemouth swims around with his mouth wide
> open and have done so for two days now. He doesn't eat, at least not
> when I see it and he stays by himself most of the time. Does any of
> you know why he's doing that, is that anything I can do?
> thankful for answers
> Magdalena
>
i have had that problem in a gold fish and when i checked it farther i
found that he had a piece of gravel stuck in his thraot , i was able to
remove it with fine tweezers but that may not be your case , it is
however worth looking into
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17271 From: kepat2000 Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: snails in tank
i have a 48*18*12 tropical which has been set up for 10 months with no
problems,all of the sudden i started getting loads of snails.has
anyone any idea how to get rid of them.it is a community tank kept in
the living room and i put the lights on about 5 hours a day.thanks.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17272 From: harry perry Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: Re: snails in tank/Live plants????
You didn't mention live plants but that is how the snails normally get there.

I hear this a lot across the groups. I have snails in all my tanks and I want them there.

First off they are an excellant scavanger.

They can also predict potential water problems. They will come to the surface at "lights out" but if this happens during the day I test my water.

They are a big help in fry tanks. Keeping it clean and creating infusoria.

I wouldn't try to get rid of all of them. Just think of them as your maintenance dept.

Harry





kepat2000 <kepat16@...> wrote: i have a 48*18*12 tropical which has been set up for 10 months with no
problems,all of the sudden i started getting loads of snails.has
anyone any idea how to get rid of them.it is a community tank kept in
the living room and i put the lights on about 5 hours a day.thanks.






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17273 From: shefy7 Date: 6/19/2006
Subject: new salt tank!
Hello all! My name is Shefy and I'm finally setting up my saltwater
tank for myself. A little about myself...I'm 22, live in bay area, CA,
just graduated from UCD in psychology/humna dev. I have always loved
the water and all sea animals. I can finally afford and maintain a
tank of my own :)

I bought a tank from petco (great deal!)..it's a 46 gallon bowfront
glass aquarium with stainless steel stand...i'll post pics in a few
days. I wanted some opinions on how to get started! I did research,
but many years ago...

I'm going to use red sea salt (14 lbs i think...) I want to go to the
beach and get fresh sand and shells and what not...I'm not going to
put it any fish for awhile. Just start off with the rocks,sand, and
then plants. I'd like some corals, anemones, and then eventually fish!

I'd like some suggestions for filters, air pumps, and anything else I
may need.

Thanks much and hope all your sea life is doing great!
Shefy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17274 From: Aaron R. Martin Date: 6/20/2006
Subject: Re: snails in tank/Live plants????
get a puffer fish, that's what I did, and I wasn't even trying to get
rid of the snails, but they are almost all gone now, it took less than
a week, and that "cute factor" is unbeatable. Clown Loaches are another
popular choice to eat snails, plus they earned the clown part of the
name, but need to get several as they do not like to be alone - very
social they are. I'm with Harry- I like the snails. I had 4 different
Kinds, Malaysian Trumpet Snails (MTS), Ramshorn, 1 large Apple Snail,
and another shape of the small kind similar almost in shape to the
apple. They keep the glass and plants clean of Algae. The mts keep the
Substrate stirred up. I had to start a new tank just to raise the
snails for the puffer becuase it almost ate itself out of a food
supply. And yes, mine came with th Live Plants. I freaked out at first
as well. Now I understand how good they are and the LFSs let me take as
many as I can out of their tanks for free. You can smash em and the
fish will eat them, a delacacy yes. So ?'s What fish do you have in
there now? When did the snails first show up? Was it after getting
plants? How many snails are there now? 100's 1,000s? What do they look
like(what kind are they? --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry
perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: > > You didn't mention live plants
but that is how the snails normally get there. > > I hear this a lot
across the groups. I have snails in all my tanks and I want them there.
> > First off they are an excellant scavanger. > > They can also
predict potential water problems. They will come to the surface at
"lights out" but if this happens during the day I test my water. > >
They are a big help in fry tanks. Keeping it clean and creating
infusoria. > > I wouldn't try to get rid of all of them. Just think of
them as your maintenance dept. > > Harry
------------------------------------------ > kepat2000 <kepat16@...>
wrote: i have a 48*18*12 tropical which has been set up for 10 months
with no problems,all of the sudden i started getting loads of snails.
has anyone any idea how to get rid of them.it is a community tank kept
in the living room and i put the lights on about 5 hours a day.thanks.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17275 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/20/2006
Subject: Re: Newly arrived angel is sick
She's in the 10 gal w/ the first dose of clout. I've tried to find the
pepso food but I can not find it online and it isn't sold anywhere here.
If anyone has a link to a store that actually has this in stock, please
share.

I've turned the temp up and will do so again here in a few hours.
What's the max I should raise it to? You said 92? That seems high but
I'm also not experienced in parasite treatments. Just looking for a
confirmation that it's the correct temp and not a typo so I don't fry
my fish. =)

I have a 30 gal bio wheel on the 10 gal tank she is in. Is that enough
oxygenation or should I also add an airstone?

Thanks again,
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 9:03 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newly arrived angel is sick



.

<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
sgId=17268&stime=1150725980>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17276 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/20/2006
Subject: Re: Newly arrived angel is sick
You may not need the Pepso as it will only be eaten now after the
fish is (hopefully) on its way to recovering. Always good to feed as
a preventative measure (every 21 days) to help prevent a relapse or
the other one getting it. Yes I did say 93 (ninety three); it it a
bit high, but these fish will be able to take it. You can combine
the Clout with Metronidazole also if you can locate it. When I
mention to increase the aeration, I meant just that INCREASE it! --
beyond the normal aeration you have now from any form. Yes, the
addition of an airstone will add that increased aeration -- the bio-
wheel itself may not provide enough. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> She's in the 10 gal w/ the first dose of clout. I've tried to find
the
> pepso food but I can not find it online and it isn't sold anywhere
here.
> If anyone has a link to a store that actually has this in stock,
please
> share.
>
> I've turned the temp up and will do so again here in a few hours.
> What's the max I should raise it to? You said 92? That seems high
but
> I'm also not experienced in parasite treatments. Just looking for a
> confirmation that it's the correct temp and not a typo so I don't
fry
> my fish. =)
>
> I have a 30 gal bio wheel on the 10 gal tank she is in. Is that
enough
> oxygenation or should I also add an airstone?
>
> Thanks again,
> Leslie
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 9:03 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newly arrived angel is sick
>
>
>
> .
>
> <http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?
s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
> sgId=17268&stime=1150725980>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17277 From: snerticus Date: 6/20/2006
Subject: Re: snails in tank/Live plants????
I agree that snails are beneficial, however, I also know from
experience that they can get out of hand and stay that way without a
little extra maintenance procedures. I have a Yo Yo Loach that does
short work of the nuisance snails in my tank. I also have Malaysian
Trumpet snails in with him and he can't seem to figure out how to eat
them, so he leaves them alone. I had a dwarf puffer, but all he did
was kill the snails and eat the outermost part, then leave the
innaccessable parts inside the shell to rot. For that reason, I
wouldn't reccomend the dwarf variety of puffers unless their mouths
are big enough to munch the shell. My Yo Yo loach, although small,
just sucks the entire snail out of it's shell. Mmmmmmm... escargot!
I have a separate tank for raising gammarus shrimp (and other
critters) that I also deliberately put nuisance snails in to raise
for loach food. They have infested that tank already, but until I'm
absolutely sick of taking care of the snails, they're there to stay.
I also have a large nerite snail which does NOT reproduce in
freshwater, and is too large for my Yo Yo Loach to eat, he goes about
his business without much to worry about. You can see a pic of my Yo
Yo Loach at my not-so-high-tech web site www.snerticus.com.

I don't have any ramshorn, mystery, or other types of beneficial
snails in my tanks - just the MTS and the nuisance (pond?) snails,
and that one nerite. I keep the nuisance snails under control with
snail eating fish, but the MTS I let reproduce. (Those MTS babies
gotta be the cutest thing!). I really like the fact they stir up the
gravel and keep it aerated.

Hope some of this helped.

Snerticus


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron R. Martin"
<anonymous122899@...> wrote:
>
> get a puffer fish, that's what I did, and I wasn't even trying to
get
> rid of the snails, but they are almost all gone now, it took less
than
> a week, and that "cute factor" is unbeatable. Clown Loaches are
another
> popular choice to eat snails, plus they earned the clown part of
the
> name, but need to get several as they do not like to be alone -
very
> social they are. I'm with Harry- I like the snails. I had 4
different
> Kinds, Malaysian Trumpet Snails (MTS), Ramshorn, 1 large Apple
Snail,
> and another shape of the small kind similar almost in shape to the
> apple. They keep the glass and plants clean of Algae. The mts keep
the
> Substrate stirred up. I had to start a new tank just to raise the
> snails for the puffer becuase it almost ate itself out of a food
> supply. And yes, mine came with th Live Plants. I freaked out at
first
> as well. Now I understand how good they are and the LFSs let me
take as
> many as I can out of their tanks for free. You can smash em and
the
> fish will eat them, a delacacy yes. So ?'s What fish do you have
in
> there now? When did the snails first show up? Was it after getting
> plants? How many snails are there now? 100's 1,000s? What do they
look
> like(what kind are they? --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com,
harry
> perry <harryfisherman@> wrote: > > You didn't mention live plants
> but that is how the snails normally get there. > > I hear this a
lot
> across the groups. I have snails in all my tanks and I want them
there.
> > > First off they are an excellant scavanger. > > They can also
> predict potential water problems. They will come to the surface at
> "lights out" but if this happens during the day I test my water.
> >
> They are a big help in fry tanks. Keeping it clean and creating
> infusoria. > > I wouldn't try to get rid of all of them. Just
think of
> them as your maintenance dept. > > Harry
> ------------------------------------------ > kepat2000 <kepat16@>
> wrote: i have a 48*18*12 tropical which has been set up for 10
months
> with no problems,all of the sudden i started getting loads of
snails.
> has anyone any idea how to get rid of them.it is a community tank
kept
> in the living room and i put the lights on about 5 hours a
day.thanks.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17278 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: Vacation prep/backup air pumps
I'm going on vacation soon and the only thing I haven't taken care of
regarding the tanks is back up aeration. I've looked at some that kick
on automatically but they are around $50-60 (plus ship) each and I need
two of them.

Does anyone have something they would recommend or had successes with?
I might splurge on these if I must but I at least want to make sure I've
researched my options.

Many thanks,
Leslie

BTW...I will also buy them used if anyone has any they are ready to part
with.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17279 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: Re: Vacation prep/backup air pumps
I think I just found one on ebay. It's only $14 plus shipping if anyone
else is looking to obtain one at a good price.
It looks small but air is air is air when the power goes out. (and the
seller said he has used it in his 55 g. tanks several times with
success.)
~Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 10:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Vacation prep/backup air pumps



I'm going on vacation soon and the only thing I haven't taken care of
regarding the tanks is back up aeration. I've looked at some that kick
on automatically but they are around $50-60 (plus ship) each and I need
two of them.

Does anyone have something they would recommend or had successes with?
I might splurge on these if I must but I at least want to make sure I've
researched my options.

Many thanks,
Leslie

BTW...I will also buy them used if anyone has any they are ready to part
with.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17280 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: HELP! Angel is dying
My angelfish is lying on the floor breathing but not moving. I came in
to find her on the filter intake about 10 minutes ago and now she's on
the floor. I've turned the temp down and the bubbles off as the current
was a little strong.
Is there some kind of fish shock that I can do to get her going again or
is this it with no chance. I'll take any chance if someone will give me
something to do.
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17281 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: Re: HELP! Angel is dying
Sorry to have to say, it doesn't look good (I believe this may be it).
The smaller they are, the faster the Hexamita disease goes through
them. Was naturally hoping the meds might have turned things around in
time but it does not appear to be the case. At least you gave it a
try. This is a terrible disease that can go through smaller fish like
lightening, and is even very hard on large fish. Wish I had better
news for you. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> My angelfish is lying on the floor breathing but not moving. I came
in
> to find her on the filter intake about 10 minutes ago and now she's on
> the floor. I've turned the temp down and the bubbles off as the
current
> was a little strong.
> Is there some kind of fish shock that I can do to get her going again
or
> is this it with no chance. I'll take any chance if someone will give
me
> something to do.
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17282 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray
Thanks for responding regardless of the text. She did die about 15
minutes ago. Gosh that sucks.
Angels have such great personable personalities so it makes it double
hard to see them die.

Should I try to get another tank mate for the healthier larger angel? I
know they like to be in pairs.
If I do, it won't be for a while. I don't get home from vacation until
July 4th.

Are there any other meds I should have on hand if this were to take
control again? I looked up the two other meds you mentioned, perhapas
I'll order them when I get back.

Also, is there a medicated flake food? I do have the pepso by Jungle,
both for parasites and bacteria, but many fish don't like the pellets.
They spit them out.

Thanks again Ray,
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 4:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP! Angel is dying



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17283 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: my fish are dying
hello!
In my 55 gallon tank I've had angles and gouramis. But in the last 2
weeks I've lost them all (a total of 7 fish).
One day they're fine and the next morinig I find them dead and I can't
figure out why.

I recently, about 4 weeks ago, added live plants to the tank to help
take down the nitrate level some. My water parameters seeme just fine,
nitrate is close to 80 but it's always been high and they have thrived
before. I've been thinking of using the tank for discus but I want to
make sure there's nothing wrong with it before I do and I'm really
upset about my angles and gouramis death.

Right now all I have in the tank is 2 long finned rose barbs, 1
gourami, 1 rainbow shark and a pleco, and they all seem to be allright.
Any suggestions on what can be wrong?
thanks
Magdalena
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17284 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/21/2006
Subject: Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray
Also, is this contagious? My remaning angel is now being picky with
food. He sucks it in then immediately spits it out. ARgh! I will
never have fish shipped again.

Are angels just prone to this? I did read that hexamita is common in
them, but what causes it? And again, will it spread to my other fish?

Thanks,
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 4:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray



Thanks for responding regardless of the text. She did die about 15
minutes ago. Gosh that sucks.
Angels have such great personable personalities so it makes it double
hard to see them die.

Should I try to get another tank mate for the healthier larger angel? I
know they like to be in pairs.
If I do, it won't be for a while. I don't get home from vacation until
July 4th.

Are there any other meds I should have on hand if this were to take
control again? I looked up the two other meds you mentioned, perhapas
I'll order them when I get back.

Also, is there a medicated flake food? I do have the pepso by Jungle,
both for parasites and bacteria, but many fish don't like the pellets.
They spit them out.

Thanks again Ray,
Leslie

<http://groups.
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-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 4:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP! Angel is dying

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17285 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray
Yes this is contagious. For some reason Cichlids seem to have more
of a propensity towards contracting this disease more than most any
other group of fish. Angelfish are especially disposed to getting
it. Its possible that your other Angel may be coming down with it;
might be a good idea to treat that one as well. As long as he's
still eating, try to find the medicated Pepso food (or any medicated
food) and give him that along with the medication. Both "That Fish
Place" -- < www.thatfishplace.com > and "Doctors Foster and Smith"
(Pet Warehouse) < www.DrsFosterSmith.com > carry Jungle Labs products
and may carry it even though its not listed in their catalogs.

Strangely, I have not seen another Family of fish being infected by
it. The disease is caused by a protozoan infection in the digestive
system. Often, the fish will live with it for a good length of time
in a symbiotic relationship with it until the fish is stressed. One
of the most prevalent stress causing conditions that caused Hexamita
to overtake its host is poor water conditions. For that reason
alone, large and frequent water changes are recommended to keep
Angels in top shape. Sometimes however, its just the stress of
moving them -- more so, if the water conditions are different during
the move. In any case, the protozoan may well have been in the
fish's environment somewhere in its recent background, UNLESS the
fish was originally totally free of it originally (and had no
immunity to it), and was subjected to it in its present environment.

Before having fish shipped to you again, get to know the breeder you
are buying from. If possible, try to find out more about his
reputation. This will cut down on incidences such as this, even if
it may not totally eliminate them. Even the best breeders may not be
aware of latent Hexamita in their tanks if it doesn't show. Always
best to quarantine newly received fish (whether store bought or
shipped in), especially Angels and Discus. While I don't generally
like medicating fish unnecessarily, this is one time that I would
give treatment first as a prophylactic measure, as its much easier to
get rid of the protozoan in its intial stages rather than wait until
it manifests itself, especially (depending on their source) since
Angels are known to carry it. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Also, is this contagious? My remaning angel is now being picky with
> food. He sucks it in then immediately spits it out. ARgh! I
will
> never have fish shipped again.
>
> Are angels just prone to this? I did read that hexamita is common
in
> them, but what causes it? And again, will it spread to my other
fish?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
> Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 4:34 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray
>
>
>
> Thanks for responding regardless of the text. She did die about 15
> minutes ago. Gosh that sucks.
> Angels have such great personable personalities so it makes it
double
> hard to see them die.
>
> Should I try to get another tank mate for the healthier larger
angel? I
> know they like to be in pairs.
> If I do, it won't be for a while. I don't get home from vacation
until
> July 4th.
>
> Are there any other meds I should have on hand if this were to take
> control again? I looked up the two other meds you mentioned,
perhapas
> I'll order them when I get back.
>
> Also, is there a medicated flake food? I do have the pepso by
Jungle,
> both for parasites and bacteria, but many fish don't like the
pellets.
> They spit them out.
>
> Thanks again Ray,
> Leslie
>
> <http://groups.
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 4:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP! Angel is dying
>
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<http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJjYTRrZHMyBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BF9wAzUE
Z3
> > yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJjYTRrZHMyBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BF9wAzUEZ3
>
JwSWQDODQ5NTE1NwRncnBzcElkAzE2MDAwNDI3NTIEc2VjA3NsbW9kBHN0aW1lAzExNTA5
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> Marine%2bfish%2btank%26w1=Marine%2bfish%26w2=Marine%2bsupply%2bfish%
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2btan
> k%26w6=Marine%2bfish%2bsupply%26c=6%26s=133%26g=2%
26.sig=rNbZbr4WRAT0RIc
> m9kTeRQ> fish tank
>
> * Marine
> <http://us.lrd.
>
<http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJjMWJtMDhxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BF9wAzYE
Z3
> > yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJjMWJtMDhxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BF9wAzYEZ3
>
JwSWQDODQ5NTE1NwRncnBzcElkAzE2MDAwNDI3NTIEc2VjA3NsbW9kBHN0aW1lAzExNTA5
Mj
> UxNTQ-;_ylg=1/SIG=18esio4l6/**http%3a//groups.yahoo.com/gads%3ft=ms%
26k=
> Marine%2bfish%2bsupply%26w1=Marine%2bfish%26w2=Marine%2bsupply%
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> ank%26w6=Marine%2bfish%2bsupply%26c=6%26s=133%26g=2%
26.sig=0WkJqSuEaExKk
> 8uFrHT9jg> fish supply
>
> .
>
> <http://geo.yahoo.
> <http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?
s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
> > com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
> sgId=17281&stime=1150925154>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17286 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray
I did not see this message earlier, and just spotted it attached to
the bottom of your later post after I sent my reply to that. Sorry
about your loss. I didn't think he'd last very much longer after I
read the description of his condition. You're right about Angels
having a great personality. Actually, most New World Cichlids tend
to have this endearing trait, and while other aquarists may disagree
with me I'd have to say its the larger (as opposed to Dwarf) South
American Cichlids more so which display this characteristic.

Since you mention the remaining Angel is now acting weird, I would
hold off from getting any other Angels at this time. I believe it
may be prudent to also treat this one for Hexamita as well as keep an
eye on him. They do enjoy the company of others of their kind,
especially when they are still small. Their sex doesn't enter into
their comeraderie at this age, so aggression is not part of their
behavior. However, before adding any other Angels, whether or not
the remaining one gets sick or not, I would be inclined to treat the
large tank although I don't know what other fish you have in there so
can't say at this time how high to boost the temperature. The small
quarantine tank can be thoroughly submersed in a tub or bucket of a
Chlorox solution to disinfect it, after which a good rinsing will
render it safe for use.

I did not realize you already have Pepso; you're right in that
sometimes they just don't like (small) pellets (granulated food).
This may be one reason to start them out on the Pepso when they are
small to get them used to it. Tetra used to make a medicated anti-
parasite food but discontinued it (while still making an anti-
bacterial food). I don't know of any other medicated (anti-
parasitic) flake food, but that's not to say there are none. Those
are about the only two meds you'll need for possible future use if
Hexamita pops up again, although just plain Metronidazole (by
SeaChem), which you probably already have, is good to have around.

In the event you can't find the medicated flake food you need, you
can always make your own. Make a paste out of a small portion (1/2
ounce) of the regular flake food you're using and add to it one
measure of the SeaChem Metronidazole (it comes with a built
in "measuring spoon"), mixing it in thoroughly. Then spread it out
thinly on a spare piece of glass (or plastic) or any flat surface to
dry, after which crumble it up into small pieces. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for responding regardless of the text. She did die about 15
> minutes ago. Gosh that sucks.
> Angels have such great personable personalities so it makes it
double
> hard to see them die.
>
> Should I try to get another tank mate for the healthier larger
angel? I
> know they like to be in pairs.
> If I do, it won't be for a while. I don't get home from vacation
until
> July 4th.
>
> Are there any other meds I should have on hand if this were to take
> control again? I looked up the two other meds you mentioned,
perhapas
> I'll order them when I get back.
>
> Also, is there a medicated flake food? I do have the pepso by
Jungle,
> both for parasites and bacteria, but many fish don't like the
pellets.
> They spit them out.
>
> Thanks again Ray,
> Leslie
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 4:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP! Angel is dying
>
>
>
> We Made Changes
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> cLife/spnew> Photos
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<http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJjbzdldWVxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BF9wAzIE
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<http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJjaTZoNWFlBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BF9wAzME
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> _vw> aquariums
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> * Marine
>
<http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJjZTZyMTBjBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BF9wAzQE
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> btank%26w6=Marine%2bfish%2bsupply%26c=6%26s=133%26g=2%
26.sig=pqGzwRQC-cP
> nkMYXKdIPew> aquarium fish
>
> * Marine
>
<http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJjYTRrZHMyBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BF9wAzUE
Z3
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> UxNTQ-;_ylg=1/SIG=18c5jqirg/**http%3a//groups.yahoo.com/gads%3ft=ms%
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> Marine%2bfish%2btank%26w1=Marine%2bfish%26w2=Marine%2bsupply%2bfish%
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2btan
> k%26w6=Marine%2bfish%2bsupply%26c=6%26s=133%26g=2%
26.sig=rNbZbr4WRAT0RIc
> m9kTeRQ> fish tank
>
> * Marine
>
<http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJjMWJtMDhxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BF9wAzYE
Z3
>
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> UxNTQ-;_ylg=1/SIG=18esio4l6/**http%3a//groups.yahoo.com/gads%3ft=ms%
26k=
> Marine%2bfish%2bsupply%26w1=Marine%2bfish%26w2=Marine%2bsupply%
2bfish%26
> w3=Fish%2baquariums%26w4=Marine%2baquarium%2bfish%26w5=Marine%
2bfish%2bt
> ank%26w6=Marine%2bfish%2bsupply%26c=6%26s=133%26g=2%
26.sig=0WkJqSuEaExKk
> 8uFrHT9jg> fish supply
>
> .
>
> <http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?
s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
> sgId=17281&stime=1150925154>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17287 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: Ray
I won't be getting any new fish anytime soon. I will wait at least a
month or more to make sure this is all well and gone.

I will treat the whole tank with the clout. As far as tank mates... 1
pictus cat, 2 cory cats, 1 kissing gourami (which I just moved into my
75 and am scared to death she might be carrying), 1 dwarf gourami, 1
tetra of some sort, 1 zebra danio and the angel.

I might move the kissing gourami back into this tank to treat it.

~Leslie


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 5:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray



.

<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
sgId=17286&stime=1150973599>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17288 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Will Clout kill my bacteria?
I'm leaving on vacation Saturday and just treated a semi new tank w/
clout. Now I fear that it may ruin my bacteria colony and I won't be
here to do the water changes needed. !!!!!

Is the risk high of this happening? I put four clout tabs into a 46
gallon tank. Maybe I should go buy some bacteria starter and add it
before I leave? But then I have to do a water change before I go which
will negate the clouts purpose and not give it time to work. EEEssshhh.

Any suggestions?

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17289 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: Ray
Thanks for posting you fish collection, I can get a better idea of
how to proceed. The Gourami's, Danio and Cory's should be no problem
with the heat, but I'm not too sure about the Tetra or Pictus Cat.
After you get the tank up to 86o - 87o, notch it up more slowly
towards 93o while keeping an eye on them for stress. Should be
alright, even though the disolved oxygen will drop to about 7.4 ppm
on average (at sea level, etc.) rather than the 8.6 ppm at their more
normal temperatures (74o ish); still well above the average 5 to 6
ppm most freshwater need to thrive. This is where clean water (free
of ammonia, etc.) and good aeration are increasingly important. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
>
> I won't be getting any new fish anytime soon. I will wait at least
a
> month or more to make sure this is all well and gone.
>
> I will treat the whole tank with the clout. As far as tank
mates... 1
> pictus cat, 2 cory cats, 1 kissing gourami (which I just moved into
my
> 75 and am scared to death she might be carrying), 1 dwarf gourami, 1
> tetra of some sort, 1 zebra danio and the angel.
>
> I might move the kissing gourami back into this tank to treat it.
>
> ~Leslie
>
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 5:52 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP! Angel is dying, Ray
>
>
>
> .
>
> <http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?
s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
> sgId=17286&stime=1150973599>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17290 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: my upside down catfish
he is getting very big for my tank its 60 by 30 (my tank) hes about 3 1/2
inch should i get rid is he too big thanks lee


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17291 From: Leslie Hennis Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: Ray
> Thanks for posting you fish collection, I can get a better idea of
> how to proceed. The Gourami's, Danio and Cory's should be no problem
> with the heat, but I'm not too sure about the Tetra or Pictus Cat.

I've had Tetras at 92-93 before. The start losing some of their color
towards the end but it didn't kill them.

Les
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17292 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: Ray
Les, Thank you very much; that is reassuring and good to know. I
figured it might affect them somewhat though, as you mention, as its
more than a bit higher than their normal metabolism. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie Hennis" <fizzgig@...> wrote:
>
> > Thanks for posting you fish collection, I can get a better idea of
> > how to proceed. The Gourami's, Danio and Cory's should be no
problem
> > with the heat, but I'm not too sure about the Tetra or Pictus Cat.
>
> I've had Tetras at 92-93 before. The start losing some of their color
> towards the end but it didn't kill them.
>
> Les
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17293 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Re: snails in tank
Clown loaches love them. But I keep them under control by squishing
them with my fingers and letting the fish eat the squished snails from
my hand

> i have a 48*18*12 tropical which has been set up for 10 months with
no
> problems,all of the sudden i started getting loads of snails.has
> anyone any idea how to get rid of them.it is a community tank kept in
> the living room and i put the lights on about 5 hours a day.thanks.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17294 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: Now it's my pictus cat!
Gosh!

My pictus catfish now has a blasting redness where his fin meets his
body. It's only on one side as of now but he too will not eat.
WHAT the heck is going on here? I thought reddening would equal
septicemia but it's not streaking and it's bold, bold red almost raw
looking at his fin. Help?!?!?!

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17295 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/22/2006
Subject: New Member
Hello everyone. My name is Karen. I have an addiction. Yes, I admit it.
Tropical Freshwater Fish. When I was in kindergarten, I loved my goldfish so
much, I wanted to sleep with him. So I wrapped him up in toilet paper so he would
be nice and warm, and I tucked him in tight under my pillow.
I was so upset when he would not swim anymore the next day. How did I know
he preferred water to breath in.
So now, no matter how much I want to hug and kiss some of my fishies, I keep
the glass between us.
I have a 90 gallon planted tank with 2 angels, 3 Balas, 1 tinfoil barb, 1
Jack Dempsey, 1 Ghost Knife Fish, 1 Pleco, 1 female Betta, 1 Pictus catfish, a
few apple snails, 2 ramshorn snails, and I just added 24 Malaysian trumpet
snails.
I know. Its a lot in one tank. I have recently set up a 29 gallon. waiting
for it to cycle. In that 29 I am using the live sand a 2 pieces of live rock
that I had in it when I tried salt. I rinsed it all out really good. I really
want to use it for freshwater. Everything dieing will help it cycle.
My 90 is my first planted fishtank and I have really enjoyed it. The
Wisteria or sprite, whichever it is, grows like wildfire, I have some sword and
anarchis, driftwood as well. recently I noticed a bit of finrot with my angels
and my female betta. I treated the tank for 5 days with amoxycillen. I don't
think it has cleared up yet. I have been doing water changes every few days. I
have also added zeolite filter cartriges to my biofilter, and I have added
some java moss which was proved to help control nitrite.
I never stop learning. But, I have really enjoyed it, and I want to be able
to have people I can ask questions.

Karen



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17296 From: Dawn Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Good Morning All
Hi Ray, I am so sorry to read of your loss. Even though, I have
only had Betta Fish, in recent years and snails, and a few Ghost
Shrimp, I completely understand. My Betta Fish died in April and I
just got another one two days ago. This one is named Fletcher and I
somehow feel as if I have betrayed Daniel. I am so very sorry.

Hi Karen, my friend, it is great to have a new person in the group.
I read your note about all your "Aquatic Babies." Oh wow, I think
that is awesome. I adored AppleSnails. I had three and Daniel is
in five gallon tank. Then a few months later, someone gave me some
Ghost Shrimp. I had NO idea, they did not go well with Betta's and
up until I met Fletcher, I was trying to decide what to put in with
Him, as the AppleSnails (Larry, Curely and Moe) have all gone
to "The Bridge." All that is in there now are a few Trumpet snails
and a few TINY wild snails. They are really little. A word to the
wise my friend, please watch the "Trumpet Snails." They tend to
breed like rabbits. I found this out the hard way. I cannot kill
ANYTHING so, I have given some away and now am waiting on my
boyfriend to move out here from Colorado to Maryland, to get some
more of them. I love them dearly but, I do not want ANYTHING to
hurt Fletcher, He is just a baby. I won't be getting ANY Shrimp of
ANY kind now, until Fletcher grows up. Welcome again to the group.
I hope that each and every one of you has a great day and if you are
in the path of this horrible storms please be careful. In Maryland,
weather wise, we are going to be in danger, most of the weekend.
Love, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17297 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Parasite meds, which to use?
I have just ordered some things to stock my med cabinet as I am
obviously not equipped to handle internal parasites. I thought I was w/
the clout but live and learn. I also plan on treating each new shipment
from here on out.

<http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=8
45524441807666&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
07>



*
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=8
45524441807666&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
07> HEX-OUT 10 TABS
<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%3Eprd_id
=845524441807666&ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%3Esku_id=1689949371976003&ADD_CART_ITE
M%3C%3Equantity=1&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023687&bmForm=frm_add
_to_cart&bmFormID=1151075481407&bmSubmit=add_to_cart&bmUID=1151075481407
&bmHash=98bc9b515dd0c0660050d1bf11eb11231f22e3cd>

<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>

<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>

*
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=8
45524441781782&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
32> Internal Parasite Guard, 20 oz
<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%3Eprd_id
=845524441781782&ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%3Esku_id=1689949371962560&ADD_CART_ITE
M%3C%3Equantity=1&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023687&bmForm=frm_add
_to_cart&bmFormID=1151075481432&bmSubmit=add_to_cart&bmUID=1151075481432
&bmHash=3527231dc63fdf3868703b9a3dc45fa1ab0f3923>

<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>

<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
*
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=8
45524441806678&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
58> ANTI PARASITE MEDICATED FISH FOOD 1 OZ
*

Metronidazole Tablets
* ParaGuard
* CopperSafe (4 fl. oz.)
*

PraziPro (4 oz)


My questions are should any of these NOT be used together and will any
of them harm the biological colony in the filters?
Which should I use once they come in assuming I haven't lost my fish?
Can I give any of them a med bath to help this process along?

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17298 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite meds, which to use?
Its always best not to mix medications in most cases, unless you
specifically know that they can be used together. You can use Clout
and Metronidazole together, Also, you can use Metronidazole and
Internal Parasite Guard together. Most antibacterial medications
will play havoc will your biological colonies; they will not
discriminate between the beneficial and harmful bacteria.

For treating Hexamita, you should use the same medications you've
been using for it (Clout, Metronidazole and/or Internal Parasite
Guard) only in one of the two the combinations I've outlined above.
The only "med bath" you can give them in the meantime is to continue
treating them as you were doing. While not intended for Hexamita,
Kanamycin is an excellent broad-spectrum (gram-positive gram-
negative) antibiotic for both internal and external use; its one of
the very few that are readily absorbed through the tissue to get
inside the fish where you often need it. Its available as "Kanaplex"
by SeaChem. There are other meds which act better against certain
other diseases, but the best way to avoid problems in the beginning
is with providing the fish with as clean water as you can give them
(and quarantine new-comers). Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I have just ordered some things to stock my med cabinet as I am
> obviously not equipped to handle internal parasites. I thought I
was w/
> the clout but live and learn. I also plan on treating each new
shipment
> from here on out.
>
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
3Eprd_id=8
> 45524441807666&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> 07>
>
>
>
> *
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
3Eprd_id=8
> 45524441807666&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> 07> HEX-OUT 10 TABS
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
3Eprd_id
> =845524441807666&ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
3Esku_id=1689949371976003&ADD_CART_ITE
> M%3C%3Equantity=1&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmForm=frm_add
>
_to_cart&bmFormID=1151075481407&bmSubmit=add_to_cart&bmUID=11510754814
07
> &bmHash=98bc9b515dd0c0660050d1bf11eb11231f22e3cd>
>
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>

>
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
>
> *
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
3Eprd_id=8
> 45524441781782&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> 32> Internal Parasite Guard, 20 oz
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
3Eprd_id
> =845524441781782&ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
3Esku_id=1689949371962560&ADD_CART_ITE
> M%3C%3Equantity=1&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmForm=frm_add
>
_to_cart&bmFormID=1151075481432&bmSubmit=add_to_cart&bmUID=11510754814
32
> &bmHash=3527231dc63fdf3868703b9a3dc45fa1ab0f3923>
>
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>

>
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>

> *
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
3Eprd_id=8
> 45524441806678&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> 58> ANTI PARASITE MEDICATED FISH FOOD 1 OZ
> *
>
> Metronidazole Tablets
> * ParaGuard
> * CopperSafe (4 fl. oz.)
> *
>
> PraziPro (4 oz)
>
>
> My questions are should any of these NOT be used together and will
any
> of them harm the biological colony in the filters?
> Which should I use once they come in assuming I haven't lost my
fish?
> Can I give any of them a med bath to help this process along?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17299 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite meds, which to use?
So these meds shouldn't hurt the bacterial colonies as they aren't
antibacterial, is that right?
L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 11:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Parasite meds, which to use?



Its always best not to mix medications in most cases, unless you
specifically know that they can be used together. You can use Clout
and Metronidazole together, Also, you can use Metronidazole and
Internal Parasite Guard together. Most antibacterial medications
will play havoc will your biological colonies; they will not
discriminate between the beneficial and harmful bacteria.

For treating Hexamita, you should use the same medications you've
been using for it (Clout, Metronidazole and/or Internal Parasite
Guard) only in one of the two the combinations I've outlined above.
The only "med bath" you can give them in the meantime is to continue
treating them as you were doing. While not intended for Hexamita,
Kanamycin is an excellent broad-spectrum (gram-positive gram-
negative) antibiotic for both internal and external use; its one of
the very few that are readily absorbed through the tissue to get
inside the fish where you often need it. Its available as "Kanaplex"
by SeaChem. There are other meds which act better against certain
other diseases, but the best way to avoid problems in the beginning
is with providing the fish with as clean water as you can give them
(and quarantine new-comers). Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I have just ordered some things to stock my med cabinet as I am
> obviously not equipped to handle internal parasites. I thought I
was w/
> the clout but live and learn. I also plan on treating each new
shipment
> from here on out.
>
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%>
.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
3Eprd_id=8
> 45524441807666&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> 07>
>
>
>
> *
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%>
.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
3Eprd_id=8
> 45524441807666&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> 07> HEX-OUT 10 TABS
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%>
.com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
3Eprd_id
> =845524441807666&ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
3Esku_id=1689949371976003&ADD_CART_ITE
> M%3C%3Equantity=1&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmForm=frm_add
>
_to_cart&bmFormID=1151075481407&bmSubmit=add_to_cart&bmUID=11510754814
07
> &bmHash=98bc9b515dd0c0660050d1bf11eb11231f22e3cd>
>
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>

>
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
>
> *
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%>
.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
3Eprd_id=8
> 45524441781782&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> 32> Internal Parasite Guard, 20 oz
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%>
.com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
3Eprd_id
> =845524441781782&ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
3Esku_id=1689949371962560&ADD_CART_ITE
> M%3C%3Equantity=1&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmForm=frm_add
>
_to_cart&bmFormID=1151075481432&bmSubmit=add_to_cart&bmUID=11510754814
32
> &bmHash=3527231dc63fdf3868703b9a3dc45fa1ab0f3923>
>
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>

>
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>

> *
> <http://www.petsmart
<http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%>
.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
3Eprd_id=8
> 45524441806678&ASSORTMENT%3C%
3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> 58> ANTI PARASITE MEDICATED FISH FOOD 1 OZ
> *
>
> Metronidazole Tablets
> * ParaGuard
> * CopperSafe (4 fl. oz.)
> *
>
> PraziPro (4 oz)
>
>
> My questions are should any of these NOT be used together and will
any
> of them harm the biological colony in the filters?
> Which should I use once they come in assuming I haven't lost my
fish?
> Can I give any of them a med bath to help this process along?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17300 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Furan-2 vs Bacterial Colony
It says on the label that Furan 2 will not cause harm to beneficial
bacterial colonies.
How is that possible if it fights against bacterial infections? I ask
as I might have one developing in the pictus.

Thanks,
L




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17301 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Good Morning All
I have read a thousand stories about the malaysian Trumpet snails. I have a
few pet stores in the area that I can take them too if they get outta hand. I
am actually anxious for them to multiply. I really need my tanks cleaned.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17302 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Furan-2 vs Bacterial Colony
Some antibacterials and antibiotics are narrow spectrum anti's. Some
are broad spectrum. Apparantly furan 2 has tested theirs against most
beneficial bacteria. *shrugs*

> It says on the label that Furan 2 will not cause harm to beneficial
> bacterial colonies.
> How is that possible if it fights against bacterial infections? I ask
> as I might have one developing in the pictus.
>
> Thanks,
> L
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17303 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite meds, which to use?
Hexamita is a protozoan (similar to amoeba), so although these meds
are used against these parasites, I would think they're at least
strong enough to knock out bacteria, but then I'm not a pathologist,
so would not want to speculate. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> So these meds shouldn't hurt the bacterial colonies as they aren't
> antibacterial, is that right?
> L
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 11:40 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Parasite meds, which to use?
>
>
>
> Its always best not to mix medications in most cases, unless you
> specifically know that they can be used together. You can use Clout
> and Metronidazole together, Also, you can use Metronidazole and
> Internal Parasite Guard together. Most antibacterial medications
> will play havoc will your biological colonies; they will not
> discriminate between the beneficial and harmful bacteria.
>
> For treating Hexamita, you should use the same medications you've
> been using for it (Clout, Metronidazole and/or Internal Parasite
> Guard) only in one of the two the combinations I've outlined above.
> The only "med bath" you can give them in the meantime is to
continue
> treating them as you were doing. While not intended for Hexamita,
> Kanamycin is an excellent broad-spectrum (gram-positive gram-
> negative) antibiotic for both internal and external use; its one of
> the very few that are readily absorbed through the tissue to get
> inside the fish where you often need it. Its available
as "Kanaplex"
> by SeaChem. There are other meds which act better against certain
> other diseases, but the best way to avoid problems in the beginning
> is with providing the fish with as clean water as you can give them
> (and quarantine new-comers). Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I have just ordered some things to stock my med cabinet as I am
> > obviously not equipped to handle internal parasites. I thought I
> was w/
> > the clout but live and learn. I also plan on treating each new
> shipment
> > from here on out.
> >
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%>
> .com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
> 3Eprd_id=8
> > 45524441807666&ASSORTMENT%3C%
> 3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> > 07>
> >
> >
> >
> > *
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%>
> .com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
> 3Eprd_id=8
> > 45524441807666&ASSORTMENT%3C%
> 3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> > 07> HEX-OUT 10 TABS
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> .com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%>
> .com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
> 3Eprd_id
> > =845524441807666&ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
> 3Esku_id=1689949371976003&ADD_CART_ITE
> > M%3C%3Equantity=1&ASSORTMENT%3C%
> 3East_id=2534374302023687&bmForm=frm_add
> >
>
_to_cart&bmFormID=1151075481407&bmSubmit=add_to_cart&bmUID=11510754814
> 07
> > &bmHash=98bc9b515dd0c0660050d1bf11eb11231f22e3cd>
> >
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> .com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
>
> >
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> .com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> >
> > *
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%>
> .com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
> 3Eprd_id=8
> > 45524441781782&ASSORTMENT%3C%
> 3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> > 32> Internal Parasite Guard, 20 oz
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> .com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%>
> .com/global/order/cart.jsp?ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
> 3Eprd_id
> > =845524441781782&ADD_CART_ITEM%3C%
> 3Esku_id=1689949371962560&ADD_CART_ITE
> > M%3C%3Equantity=1&ASSORTMENT%3C%
> 3East_id=2534374302023687&bmForm=frm_add
> >
>
_to_cart&bmFormID=1151075481432&bmSubmit=add_to_cart&bmUID=11510754814
> 32
> > &bmHash=3527231dc63fdf3868703b9a3dc45fa1ab0f3923>
> >
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> .com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
>
> >
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
> .com/media/ps/images/general/spacer_111.gif>
>
> > *
> > <http://www.petsmart
> <http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%>
> .com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%
> 3Eprd_id=8
> > 45524441806678&ASSORTMENT%3C%
> 3East_id=2534374302023687&bmUID=11510754814
> > 58> ANTI PARASITE MEDICATED FISH FOOD 1 OZ
> > *
> >
> > Metronidazole Tablets
> > * ParaGuard
> > * CopperSafe (4 fl. oz.)
> > *
> >
> > PraziPro (4 oz)
> >
> >
> > My questions are should any of these NOT be used together and
will
> any
> > of them harm the biological colony in the filters?
> > Which should I use once they come in assuming I haven't lost my
> fish?
> > Can I give any of them a med bath to help this process along?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17304 From: supamii Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Stem-plants / Stargrass
I've had trouble with stem plants in the past. The first bunch died
because the stems kept rotting - I suspect I burried them too deep.

Now I'm at it again. I managed to damage the stems once again by not
allowing enough light to reach the bottom.

How do I go about replanting them? Should I leave the plants floating
for a while until the root grows out? If the lower portion of the
plant is damaged/rotting, how do I the top half?

Thanks.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17305 From: feather2night867 Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Question re: Paradise fish
Seeing as for a giggles type a thing got a couple different colored
pairs of Paradise fish for something different, low maintenance since
starting to spread the wings so to speak from just cichlids. Also not a
species I've kept in the past.
Here's the question seeing as I've searched and haven't found a whole
heck of alot of info. Now between the 2 pairs (separate species tanks)
have over 400 fry, are these fish you pull the parents or just letting
them raise them?
Been feeding them liquid fry as they aren't big enough to eat BBS as
of yet and are doing well.

Thanks ahead of time Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17306 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Tank Mate for Oscar
Does anyone have suggestions for tank mates for an Oscar. "Spunky" is about 4 inches long and I have him in a 30 gallon tank. I know that's a small tank, but I was told that this size would be ok for a while. I hear that Osacars will kill about anything, but would like to have something besides him in the tank. Any Ideas?? I prefer something besides an algae eater.

Regina


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17307 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tank Mate for Oscar
Regina,
Oscars grow very quickly. I would move him into a larger tank then
consider tank mates, but only then.
Good luck. =)
L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Regina Haynes
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 2:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tank Mate for Oscar



Does anyone have suggestions for tank mates for an Oscar. "Spunky" is
about 4 inches long and I have him in a 30 gallon tank. I know that's a
small tank, but I was told that this size would be ok for a while. I
hear that Osacars will kill about anything, but would like to have
something besides him in the tank. Any Ideas?? I prefer something
besides an algae eater.

Regina


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17308 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: my upside down catfish
Lee,

It really depends on the species you have (not he common name--the species).
_Synodontis nigriventris_ is fairly common, and only grows to a bit over 3.5
inches as does _S. contractus_. However, if you have _S. batensoda_, I'd
start looking for a new home for him. You'd be looking at a 19+ inch fish
when he's full grown. If you look up these fish, and have some good photos
to look at, you should be able to tell the difference between the species.
They have sufficient variation in their patterns, so you should be able to
easily tell them apart.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of tartintaff@...
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 2:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] my upside down catfish

he is getting very big for my tank its 60 by 30 (my tank) hes about 3 1/2
inch should i get rid is he too big thanks lee


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17309 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Furan-2 vs Bacterial Colony
While the makers of Furan 2 (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals) hopefully tested
this product to be able to say it won't harm your beneficial bacteria,
it is comprised of Nitrofurazole and Furazolidone, both of them broad
spectrum (gram-positive and gram-negative) antibiotics. So its still a
puzzle why it won't harm beneficial bacteria as they say, especially
since it basically acts against all types of bacteria. There are a
number of ways different antibotics work against bacteria; some inhibit
the growth of cell walls, some inhibit protein production. while still
others inhibit enzyme production needed for DNA and/or RNA. Any way
they act on bacteria seemingly would not leave out any certain types of
bacteria by the specific methods in which the drugs work, regardless of
whether or not the bacteria are beneficial. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Some antibacterials and antibiotics are narrow spectrum anti's. Some
> are broad spectrum. Apparantly furan 2 has tested theirs against
most
> beneficial bacteria. *shrugs*
>
> > It says on the label that Furan 2 will not cause harm to beneficial
> > bacterial colonies.
> > How is that possible if it fights against bacterial infections? I
ask
> > as I might have one developing in the pictus.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > L
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17310 From: shefy7 Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: tanks almost ready :) blue spotted ray...
Hi all, I got the salt,live rock and sand in my tank. everything seems
perfect so far, It's all been there for almost 3 days and all the
levels are looking good. do you guys think it's ok to put some damsels
in there to get things going? i think i may just tend to stay away
from corals from now and stick to fish...i like sharks and rays and
puffers of course :) so beautiful

I really liked the blue spotted ray i saw at the lfs...does anyone
have any experience with them? i also liked the bamboo catshark....

thanks!
Shefy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17311 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tank Mate for Oscar
<Oscars grow very quickly. I would move him into a larger tank then
consider tank mates, but only then. >

Are you serious? How long might this tank last? Spunky eats like a horse so I figured he'd grow fast and probably has already, it's hard to notice a big difference when you see him every day. I've had him for about 3 months.

I just bought the tank and the fish store told me it would last me for a year. Geesh!



Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW



"Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is
for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
distribution is prohibited. If you have received this communication in
error, please notify the sender immediately by replying to the message and
deleting it from your computer."












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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17312 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Mixing meds?
Currently there is furan-2 and clout. I just read on a "general
parasite cure" that the main ingredient is metronidazole along w/ copper
sulfate (13 mg) & trichlorfon (8mg).
Can I add the general cure to the tank since it has the metronidazole?
Please say yes as I won't get the shipment in of the pure for 3-4 days.

L


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17313 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tank Mate for Oscar
Regina,
If you only keep Spunky in it, it might last you that long. It also
depends on his diet as to how quickly he will grow (not so much how much
he eats but what he eats.) I wouldn't worry about it right now. Just
keep your eye open to the classifieds for a good deal on a big tank. ;)


I have a friend who got super lucky and purchased a hot 150 gallon w/
stand and HUGE matching canopy for only $500. You just never know!!!
=)
Leslie

PS
You are doing better than most people that buy oscars. You already know
he will get large so you will be better prepared than most. There's a
LOT to be said for that! ;)




<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Regina Haynes
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 7:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Tank Mate for Oscar



<Oscars grow very quickly. I would move him into a larger tank then
consider tank mates, but only then. >

Are you serious? How long might this tank last? Spunky eats like a horse
so I figured he'd grow fast and probably has already, it's hard to
notice a big difference when you see him every day. I've had him for
about 3 months.

I just bought the tank and the fish store told me it would last me for a
year. Geesh!


Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW



"Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments,
is
for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain
confidential
and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
distribution is prohibited. If you have received this communication in
error, please notify the sender immediately by replying to the message
and
deleting it from your computer."




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17314 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Mixing meds?
You do not say how much of the General Cure consists of Metronidazole
so its impossible to say how effective this medication may be against
Hexamita, unless its the major proportion. Since you have nothing
else, and the General Cure does contain Metronidazole to a lesser or
(hopefully) greater degree, I would try it in the absence of the purer
form but would not even consider mixing it with anything else, not
knowing whether it would be safe or not. I would increase the
temperature to 93o however to render whatever quantity of Metronidazole
available to be as effective as possible. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Currently there is furan-2 and clout. I just read on a "general
> parasite cure" that the main ingredient is metronidazole along w/
copper
> sulfate (13 mg) & trichlorfon (8mg).
> Can I add the general cure to the tank since it has the metronidazole?
> Please say yes as I won't get the shipment in of the pure for 3-4
days.
>
> L
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17315 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Furan-2 vs Bacterial Colony
Not all drugs are lethal against all bacteria. When you get sick, a doctor
will prescribe, perhaps, a specific antibiotic to help you get well again.
The next time you get sick, he may prescribe a different antibiotic, unless,
of course he is one of the full spectrum guys who prescribes a full spectrum
drug to help cure you. This is why there are so many different antibiotics
out there. Each is effective against specific types of bacteria. This is why
Furon-2 can claim it will not harm the bacteria active in your biological
filter.

I've not done much reading in this area in quite some time, but, if you wish
to pursue it, it is quite interesting, what with gram-positive and
gram-negative types of bacteria (there is one type that is most often found
in aquaria) and that drugs effective against one are not at all effective
against the other, and so on.

There is not much really available with regard to fish in this area, though
that may be changing, since more are becoming interested in the area. Just
try to find a vet who is familiar with the diseases of fish in general.
You'll have a hard time. However more and more are becoming interested in
the topic, especially in the area of koi and other high dollar fish. There
is one vet in the area here that I have loaned books to and have helped her
procure books on fish diseases, but such are few and far between, and since
my other half no longer works or does business with that particular practice
where this vet was working part time, I've lost contact with her, though I
do understand she is no longer working at that practice.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 12:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Furan-2 vs Bacterial Colony

It says on the label that Furan 2 will not cause harm to beneficial
bacterial colonies.
How is that possible if it fights against bacterial infections? I ask
as I might have one developing in the pictus.

Thanks,
L




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17316 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Stem-plants / Stargrass
What I have done with plants that do not have roots is to weigh them down
with weights (lead seems to have fallen out of favor now) and let them root
on their own, as they will.

Plants with roots are planted. How deep is another question as some just
need the roots covered and others should be planted deeper. To determine the
proper planting technique, look up those plants on the web or in a good
plant book.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of supamii
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 2:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Stem-plants / Stargrass

I've had trouble with stem plants in the past. The first bunch died
because the stems kept rotting - I suspect I burried them too deep.

Now I'm at it again. I managed to damage the stems once again by not
allowing enough light to reach the bottom.

How do I go about replanting them? Should I leave the plants floating
for a while until the root grows out? If the lower portion of the
plant is damaged/rotting, how do I the top half?

Thanks.






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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17317 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Mixing meds?
Metronidazole is 125 mg

My catfish died last night. He was literrally covered in red raw spots.

L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2006 5:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Mixing meds?



.

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sgId=17314&stime=1151144859>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17318 From: shefy gupta Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Stem-plants / Stargrass
are these plants for freshwater? i'm doing a saltwater setup and don't seem to find many plants :) any suggestions?

thanks!
shefy

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: What I have done with plants that do not have roots is to weigh them down
with weights (lead seems to have fallen out of favor now) and let them root
on their own, as they will.

Plants with roots are planted. How deep is another question as some just
need the roots covered and others should be planted deeper. To determine the
proper planting technique, look up those plants on the web or in a good
plant book.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of supamii
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 2:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Stem-plants / Stargrass

I've had trouble with stem plants in the past. The first bunch died
because the stems kept rotting - I suspect I burried them too deep.

Now I'm at it again. I managed to damage the stems once again by not
allowing enough light to reach the bottom.

How do I go about replanting them? Should I leave the plants floating
for a while until the root grows out? If the lower portion of the
plant is damaged/rotting, how do I the top half?

Thanks.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links











Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17319 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Fin Rot
Does anyone have any tips for a good medication for fin rot in a Freshwater?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17320 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tank Mate for Oscar
I know jack Dempseys are ok from experience. As long as they are similar in
size.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17321 From: MIke Schornak Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: tanks almost ready :) blue spotted ray...
What size tank is it?

thanks
Mike

shefy7 <shefy7@...> wrote:
Hi all, I got the salt,live rock and sand in my tank. everything seems
perfect so far, It's all been there for almost 3 days and all the
levels are looking good. do you guys think it's ok to put some damsels
in there to get things going? i think i may just tend to stay away
from corals from now and stick to fish...i like sharks and rays and
puffers of course :) so beautiful

I really liked the blue spotted ray i saw at the lfs...does anyone
have any experience with them? i also liked the bamboo catshark....

thanks!
Shefy






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17322 From: MIke Schornak Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fin Rot
I would suggest Maracyn for it. Hope that helps

Mike

Morganawolf1@... wrote:
Does anyone have any tips for a good medication for fin rot in a Freshwater?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17323 From: shefy gupta Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: tanks almost ready :) blue spotted ray...
it's a 46 gallon...I'm going to keep the fish that get bigger in there only temporarily until I can get a bigger tank setup downstairs..hopefully by the end of the summer...

shefy

MIke Schornak <dragonman_999@...> wrote: What size tank is it?

thanks
Mike

shefy7 wrote:
Hi all, I got the salt,live rock and sand in my tank. everything seems
perfect so far, It's all been there for almost 3 days and all the
levels are looking good. do you guys think it's ok to put some damsels
in there to get things going? i think i may just tend to stay away
from corals from now and stick to fish...i like sharks and rays and
puffers of course :) so beautiful

I really liked the blue spotted ray i saw at the lfs...does anyone
have any experience with them? i also liked the bamboo catshark....

thanks!
Shefy






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17324 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Stem-plants / Stargrass
Yes, we are talking freshwater here. The plants available for marine tanks
are generally forms of algae, and I don't have any experience with them.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of shefy gupta
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2006 1:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Stem-plants / Stargrass

are these plants for freshwater? i'm doing a saltwater setup and don't seem
to find many plants :) any suggestions?

thanks!
shefy

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: What I have done with plants that
do not have roots is to weigh them down
with weights (lead seems to have fallen out of favor now) and let them root
on their own, as they will.

Plants with roots are planted. How deep is another question as some just
need the roots covered and others should be planted deeper. To determine the
proper planting technique, look up those plants on the web or in a good
plant book.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of supamii
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 2:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Stem-plants / Stargrass

I've had trouble with stem plants in the past. The first bunch died
because the stems kept rotting - I suspect I burried them too deep.

Now I'm at it again. I managed to damage the stems once again by not
allowing enough light to reach the bottom.

How do I go about replanting them? Should I leave the plants floating
for a while until the root grows out? If the lower portion of the
plant is damaged/rotting, how do I the top half?

Thanks.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17325 From: Dawn Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Hi Karen!!!!!!!
Hi Karen and All,

I hope that each and every one of you, is having a great Saturday.
Karen, please know, I was not trying to be a "busy body." I was only
trying to help. :) My PetSmart here in Maryland, won't take any more
snails. The local PetCo won't either. Oh I think it is great that
you do have a place to take them, if they do become overwhelming and
YES, they do clean the tank. Have a great rest of the day all. Love,
Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17326 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Maracyn-Two...Immediate help
I bought the medication today for my fish that have fin rot. I have all the
pills ready to drop in. Should I just drop them in and leave in the filter? I
know that it says the pills will dissolve on their own and I am ok with that.
But, doesn't it seem like I should remove the filter as well? I also have
zeolite bags in the filter compartment that I put in a few days ago to help
with ammonia control. Should I remove them as well?
I really need some answers quick. I wanna get these pills in there.
Plus, I have a lot of plant growth in my 90 which is the tank I am treating.
Do you think it would be ok to put some of those excess plants in my 29 that
I am starting, or would I be transferring the fin rot to that tank?

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17327 From: harry perry Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Re: Maracyn-Two...Immediate help/Karen
Remove the filter if your tank can stand it. I use whisper filters. I take the carbon out and put in filter material like spun polyester, something that will filter the water but not take out the med. I would also take out the zeolite bags and treat the whole tank for fin rot before you move the plants. Hope that helps.

Harry

Morganawolf1@... wrote: I bought the medication today for my fish that have fin rot. I have all the
pills ready to drop in. Should I just drop them in and leave in the filter? I
know that it says the pills will dissolve on their own and I am ok with that.
But, doesn't it seem like I should remove the filter as well? I also have
zeolite bags in the filter compartment that I put in a few days ago to help
with ammonia control. Should I remove them as well?
I really need some answers quick. I wanna get these pills in there.
Plus, I have a lot of plant growth in my 90 which is the tank I am treating.
Do you think it would be ok to put some of those excess plants in my 29 that
I am starting, or would I be transferring the fin rot to that tank?

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17328 From: Lisa Humphreys Date: 6/24/2006
Subject: Help! Weird Chemical Reaction in my tank. I need insight
I ran routine water tests on my tank this morning and found the ammonia to be starting to build up, but no where near a harmful level. I had just cleaned the gravel and changed some water 2 days ago. So, I used and Ammonia-Lock product to treat the water at the recommended dosage, a product I have used before, etc. The fish were feeding well and very active in the tank. They seemed in perfect condition.
About 15-20 minutes later, both my husband and I noticed a slight sulfer smell (like rotten eggs). Not able to locate the source, we continued our plans and went out for about 4 hours.
When we returned, we noticed the smell in the garage and very strong inside out home. Eventually, I realized that three of my five fish were DEAD. I opened the lid a gagged at the sulfer smell coming from the tank. It was overwheming and the fish were dead.
I have no idea what happened.
Can anyone offer some insight?
Thank you.
Lisa
sharpll@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17329 From: Karen Millett Date: 6/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hi Karen!!!!!!!
Hi,
I like snails, I think they are cool. I was in the city over the weekend for my birthday and I went to a pet shop to ask about algea pills but they didn't have any. I was horrified at the condition of their tanks. They had old box bubblers, as I call them, they are square and sit in the tank and bubbles come up through the top. There was nothing in the tanks but the fish, no gravel, no plants no ornaments or nothing and the algea on the sides of the tanks was horrible, just coated with the stuff. For a pet shop I thought they could take a little better care of what they were selling.
I, also, think I have a handle on the algea, I'm using waste control once a week and I see the danios are starting to eat off the bottom cause I'm not feeding them as much. The live plant I have in there is really growing up a storm, I also put a backing on the tank, it seems to darken the tank down somewhat.
I'm hoping my efforts pay off. Guess I gotta wait and see. I hope everyone has a great day. I like being a part of this group and making new friends. Take care Dawn and everyone here. Karen.
>
> From: "Dawn" <mndchap@...>
> Date: 2006/06/24 Sat PM 06:15:41 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Hi Karen!!!!!!!
>
> Hi Karen and All,
>
> I hope that each and every one of you, is having a great Saturday.
> Karen, please know, I was not trying to be a "busy body." I was only
> trying to help. :) My PetSmart here in Maryland, won't take any more
> snails. The local PetCo won't either. Oh I think it is great that
> you do have a place to take them, if they do become overwhelming and
> YES, they do clean the tank. Have a great rest of the day all. Love,
> Dawn
>
>
>
>
>
>

Adorabelle
http://svenslittlegirl.bravepages.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17330 From: momofholly2002 Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: Fin Rot ? HELP please
I have a beautiful fantail goldgish. I noticed last week that she had
bloody streaks in her tail. I treated my tank (40 gal.) with Fungus
Clear. After four days I did a 25% water change and treated the tank
again as directed. We are now into the seventh day of treatment he
tail looks not much better and my Ph is at 7.9 and won't budge. Help
me please.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17331 From: Amalthea X Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fin Rot ? HELP please
To me, that sounds more like ammonia poisoning. What are all of the
the levels in the tank? How often do you feed, and are there plants
in the tank?
Amalthea
On Jun 26, 2006, at 8:46 AM, momofholly2002 wrote:

> I have a beautiful fantail goldgish. I noticed last week that she had
> bloody streaks in her tail. I treated my tank (40 gal.) with Fungus
> Clear. After four days I did a 25% water change and treated the tank
> again as directed. We are now into the seventh day of treatment he
> tail looks not much better and my Ph is at 7.9 and won't budge. Help
> me please.
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17332 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fin Rot ? HELP please
It sounds like a bacterial infection. Try something like Maracyn.
Emily


On 6/26/06, momofholly2002 <marian816@...> wrote:
>
> I have a beautiful fantail goldgish. I noticed last week that she had
> bloody streaks in her tail. I treated my tank (40 gal.) with Fungus
> Clear. After four days I did a 25% water change and treated the tank
> again as directed. We are now into the seventh day of treatment he
> tail looks not much better and my Ph is at 7.9 and won't budge. Help
> me please.
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17333 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fin Rot ? HELP please
While bloody streaks in the fins can have several causes, including a
bacterial infection, it is not a result of a fungus. The most probable
cause is that the fish is developing Hemmhoragic Septicemia, possibly
as a result of some internal bacterial infection. This infection may
have started from poor water quality; either dirty water or water high
in ammonia and/or nitrites. Check your water parameters and act on it
accordingly (change out more water, etc.). This condition needs to be
treated ASAP, as if left untreated it could develop into a case of
fatal Dropsy if fluid starts to build up internally (including the
heart). After checking the parameters and changing out a portion
(possibly large, depending on your readings) of the water, treat with
Maracyn 2 -- not plain Maracyn (there is a HUGH difference). Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "momofholly2002" <marian816@...>
wrote:
>
> I have a beautiful fantail goldgish. I noticed last week that she
had
> bloody streaks in her tail. I treated my tank (40 gal.) with Fungus
> Clear. After four days I did a 25% water change and treated the tank
> again as directed. We are now into the seventh day of treatment he
> tail looks not much better and my Ph is at 7.9 and won't budge. Help
> me please.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17334 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fin Rot ? HELP please
Red streaks in a goldfish's fins mean that the fish is stressed. You now
need to determine the source of the stress and remove it. The only water
parameter you mention is the pH, which is rather high for a goldfish, but
within reason. If the fish has been living in that pH for sometime, it
should not be a bother to it. You do not mention the temperature of the
water--has it changed recently? It suddenly got hot around here, and if it
did the same where you are, that means the water temperature may have gone
up and upset the fish. What are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels?
Do you have other fish in the tank? Has the behavior of the fish changed? Is
it flashing, listless, something else?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of momofholly2002
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 8:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fin Rot ? HELP please

I have a beautiful fantail goldgish. I noticed last week that she had
bloody streaks in her tail. I treated my tank (40 gal.) with Fungus
Clear. After four days I did a 25% water change and treated the tank
again as directed. We are now into the seventh day of treatment he
tail looks not much better and my Ph is at 7.9 and won't budge. Help
me please.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17335 From: big_george_lake Date: 6/26/2006
Subject: "billroute"?
Greetings! Please, would you help me with a bit of information?

I recently read a reference to an Australian fish called

a "Billroute", reportedly a freshwater relative of the Stonefish.

I cannot find info on the Internet under this name.

Would you know of the latin name and/or a better-known common

name?

Thanks you for any assistance!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17336 From: clocknut44@aol.com Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: newbe
Just joined your group. My wife and I have a 55 gallon tank and a 50 tall
tank and a small garden pond,that we just started up we have 6 gold fish and one
small Koi in it and are looking to find more out about filters and
plants.Are garden pond is small for now so we will be taking are fish in doors in the
winter. Thanks for letting us join your group.
Harold and Sharon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17337 From: Ed Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: new member and question
First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago
in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15
years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his room.
Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited for
about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live plants.
Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the fish
as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days. Well
it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of
5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a Ph
buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that time,
about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed high.
I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still high,
hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and
have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish
and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point. Suggestions
and thanks in advance. Ed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17338 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: Re: "billroute"?
http://www.amonline.net.au/fishes/fishfacts/fish/nrobusta.htm

http://www.amonline.net.au/fishes/fishfacts/fish/nrobusta2.htm

A couple of web links for you
holly

>From: "big_george_lake" <big_george_lake@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] "billroute"?
>Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 05:05:46 -0000
>
>Greetings! Please, would you help me with a bit of information?
>
>I recently read a reference to an Australian fish called
>
>a "Billroute", reportedly a freshwater relative of the Stonefish.
>
>I cannot find info on the Internet under this name.
>
>Would you know of the latin name and/or a better-known common
>
>name?
>
>Thanks you for any assistance!
>
>
>
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Be quick, these Dell end of financial year deals can�t last!
http://clk.atdmt.com/OMA/go/dau0100000064oma/direct/01/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17339 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: Re: "billroute"?
In Australia we call them bullrouts
a fresh water relative of the stone fish found in Queensland and the
northern territory
all the best holly in Australia
WARNING: Never dive or jump into the river � many pools are shallow.
Bullrouts (freshwater stonefish) live in the river. Wear shoes when wading
or swimming. If stung, apply hot (not scalding) water to the affected area.
Seek medical attention.

>From: "big_george_lake" <big_george_lake@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] "billroute"?
>Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 05:05:46 -0000
>
>Greetings! Please, would you help me with a bit of information?
>
>I recently read a reference to an Australian fish called
>
>a "Billroute", reportedly a freshwater relative of the Stonefish.
>
>I cannot find info on the Internet under this name.
>
>Would you know of the latin name and/or a better-known common
>
>name?
>
>Thanks you for any assistance!
>
>
>
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
New year, new job � there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK
http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fninemsn%2Eseek%2Ecom%2Eau&_t=752315885&_r=Jan05_tagline&_m=EXT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17340 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
How many days/weeks has it been since you added the first fish?



What are your Nitrites?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ed
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question



First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago
in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15
years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his room.
Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited for
about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live plants.
Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the fish
as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days. Well
it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of
5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a Ph
buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that time,
about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed high.
I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still high,
hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and
have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish
and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point. Suggestions
and thanks in advance. Ed





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17341 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/27/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
You need to determine the source of the ammonia. Have you tested the water
out of the tap? Do that and then use your normal water treatment and test
the water again. If the ammonia level goes up, you will need to change your
water treatment regimen. I suggest using Amquel (no Plus). If Chicago is
using chloramines to treat the water, as many municipalities are today, it
will break the ammonia-chlorine bond, remove the chlorine and convert the
ammonia to a non-toxic (for fish) form so that you can get the cycle
started. If you do use the Amquel, you need to keep in mind that the more
common Nessler reagents do not work properly with it as a water treatment,
you need to use a kit that uses the salocylate reagents.

If this is not the cause of your ammonia problem, then we would need to
start looking at what is in the tank that ay be raising the ammonia level
and keeping it up there (and why the tank does not seem to be cycling). You
mentioned something about adding seed pods--what, exactly, do you mean by
that? Did you add fertilizer of some sort when you added the plants? And
there can be other things to look at.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ed
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question

First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago
in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15
years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his room.
Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited for
about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live plants.
Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the fish
as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days. Well
it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of
5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a Ph
buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that time,
about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed high.
I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still high,
hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and
have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish
and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point. Suggestions
and thanks in advance. Ed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17342 From: Brian Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues
Hi,

I got back into this hobby after being out of it for 20 years. When
did this get so complicated? Back then I didn't even hear of ammonia
problems, nitrites, etc. I just dechorlinated my water, kept my Ph
levels in check and added compatible fish. Most of the time I just
followed my instincts and had great success.

I seem to have a high mortality rate introducing new fish and it is
random. I can buy four fish and have them all die, buy four more
fish and have them all live for a couple of weeks, add four more (i
am stocking a new tank) and have two of them die within two days.

I am using Mardell dip strips to test my water. All tests come out
in the safe range, except the Nitrites, which tend to run high. I
have done about a 50% water change, and they are still running high.
My ammonia test strips indicate "safe".

I have two giant danios, two black skirt tetras, chinese algae eater,
four platy's and four neon tetras that seem to survive the ups and
downs in the water cycle(s) However, the last time I added fish, I
lost 50%.

My real discouragement is that this does not seem to be consistent.
The fish really do seem to perk up and get more active when I do a
water change, but I'm not having any mortality in existing fish, just
random mortality in introducing new fish. Plus, I am at a loss as to
how to get my nitrites down if water changes don't seem to be
accomplishing the goal.

Any suggestions?

P.S. I have an All-Glass 26 Gallon Bow-Front Aquarium using a Tetra
30 filter.

Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17343 From: Ed Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Hi Steve. Yes we have tested the water and yes it does contain
ammonia. I was trying to find the water information from the city
as to what they treat the water with but so far unsuccessful. I am
heading to their website today. Thank you very much for the info on
the testing stuff. I was beginning to wonder if it was something in
the test kit that was throwing results because as far as I could
remember I was doing things correctly. The seed pods were simply a
plant ppod that you put in the aquarium and it self sprouts. We
have two red lillies and two grassy plants (sorry, don't remember
the types) and then also some broadleaf Amazon plants that were full
grown when I planted them. Fairly certain it is not the plants. I
will find the information about the water but am fairly certain
Chicago uses chloramines for treatment. Thanks for the additional
information. My Chemistry was not good in high school and has only
gone downhill from there. I appreciate your response. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You need to determine the source of the ammonia. Have you tested
the water
> out of the tap? Do that and then use your normal water treatment
and test
> the water again. If the ammonia level goes up, you will need to
change your
> water treatment regimen. I suggest using Amquel (no Plus). If
Chicago is
> using chloramines to treat the water, as many municipalities are
today, it
> will break the ammonia-chlorine bond, remove the chlorine and
convert the
> ammonia to a non-toxic (for fish) form so that you can get the
cycle
> started. If you do use the Amquel, you need to keep in mind that
the more
> common Nessler reagents do not work properly with it as a water
treatment,
> you need to use a kit that uses the salocylate reagents.
>
> If this is not the cause of your ammonia problem, then we would
need to
> start looking at what is in the tank that ay be raising the
ammonia level
> and keeping it up there (and why the tank does not seem to be
cycling). You
> mentioned something about adding seed pods--what, exactly, do you
mean by
> that? Did you add fertilizer of some sort when you added the
plants? And
> there can be other things to look at.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Ed
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question
>
> First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
> I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago
> in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15
> years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his
room.
> Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited
for
> about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live
plants.
> Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
> time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
> When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the
fish
> as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days.
Well
> it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of
> 5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a
Ph
> buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that
time,
> about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed
high.
> I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
> with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
> second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still
high,
> hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
> chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and
> have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
> three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
> feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
> owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish
> and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
> worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point.
Suggestions
> and thanks in advance. Ed
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17344 From: Ed Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues
Sounds like we are in somewhat of the same predicament with water
Brian. I did discover however, that the dip strips are highly
inaccurate. I switched to a chemical test kit after dip strips were
reading Ph at 7 but the chemical test came in at 5. You might
condisider swthcing your testing media for more accurate results.
Good luck. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <bpk116@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I got back into this hobby after being out of it for 20 years.
When
> did this get so complicated? Back then I didn't even hear of
ammonia
> problems, nitrites, etc. I just dechorlinated my water, kept my
Ph
> levels in check and added compatible fish. Most of the time I
just
> followed my instincts and had great success.
>
> I seem to have a high mortality rate introducing new fish and it
is
> random. I can buy four fish and have them all die, buy four more
> fish and have them all live for a couple of weeks, add four more
(i
> am stocking a new tank) and have two of them die within two days.
>
> I am using Mardell dip strips to test my water. All tests come
out
> in the safe range, except the Nitrites, which tend to run high. I
> have done about a 50% water change, and they are still running
high.
> My ammonia test strips indicate "safe".
>
> I have two giant danios, two black skirt tetras, chinese algae
eater,
> four platy's and four neon tetras that seem to survive the ups and
> downs in the water cycle(s) However, the last time I added fish,
I
> lost 50%.
>
> My real discouragement is that this does not seem to be
consistent.
> The fish really do seem to perk up and get more active when I do a
> water change, but I'm not having any mortality in existing fish,
just
> random mortality in introducing new fish. Plus, I am at a loss as
to
> how to get my nitrites down if water changes don't seem to be
> accomplishing the goal.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> P.S. I have an All-Glass 26 Gallon Bow-Front Aquarium using a
Tetra
> 30 filter.
>
> Thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17345 From: Ed Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Hi. It has been two weeks since the fish were added and Nitrites
are <.03. I think the tank may have been too warm. It was hovering
about 83 due to the warmness outside and my son having his
thermometer set too high. We have the temp down now to about 77 or
so and holding steady. I think it just may have been too high to
grow the bacteria needed for the biological filter to kick in. Any
other ideas? Please advise. Thanks in advance. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> How many days/weeks has it been since you added the first fish?
>
>
>
> What are your Nitrites?
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Ed
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question
>
>
>
> First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
> I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago
> in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15
> years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his room.
> Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited
for
> about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live plants.
> Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
> time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
> When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the
fish
> as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days.
Well
> it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of
> 5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a Ph
> buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that
time,
> about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed high.
> I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
> with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
> second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still
high,
> hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
> chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and
> have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
> three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
> feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
> owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish
> and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
> worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point. Suggestions
> and thanks in advance. Ed
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17346 From: Steve Page Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: New Here
Hi, I am new here and I started my pond last week. It is a small 50 gallon pond for viewing and to keep a few small fish in. A big problem I have encountered is that the area is in part shade. Does anyone know some water plants that can live with 3-5 hours of sun a day and go deeper than 1 foot? How many 6 inch gold fish could call it home? I am starting to put a two layer rock border to hide the liner does anyone have any pictures of this? I am having a hard time with it. I live in Maine so it gets cold here during the winter should I take the plants and fish in then?
Thanks for all of the help!
-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17347 From: Steve Page Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Also
I also plan to have an iron frog spitting water from its mouth. I have the frog and pump, all I need to do it is have a hole drilled through the hollow frogs mouth. Will this be enough aeration for fish?
Thanks

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17348 From: Ed Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: Steve and my ammonia
Hi Steve, Thanks for the info. The City of Chicago does indeed use
four different chloramines to treat its water. I do know that the
source water is the issue and not anything else in the aquarium. I
think it is just going to take the one thing to kick the aquarium
over and we won't have the problem anymore it is just finding the
one thing. I am going to try Amquel as you suggested. Can you
recommend a test kit for ammonia that has the salocylate reagents
you are suggesting. I have the Tetra Laborett test kit currently,
but it says nothing about salocylates on any of the literature or
chemical bottles. Would I be looking for a chemical agent or
compound in particular? Thanks again in response. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You need to determine the source of the ammonia. Have you tested
the water
> out of the tap? Do that and then use your normal water treatment
and test
> the water again. If the ammonia level goes up, you will need to
change your
> water treatment regimen. I suggest using Amquel (no Plus). If
Chicago is
> using chloramines to treat the water, as many municipalities are
today, it
> will break the ammonia-chlorine bond, remove the chlorine and
convert the
> ammonia to a non-toxic (for fish) form so that you can get the
cycle
> started. If you do use the Amquel, you need to keep in mind that
the more
> common Nessler reagents do not work properly with it as a water
treatment,
> you need to use a kit that uses the salocylate reagents.
>
> If this is not the cause of your ammonia problem, then we would
need to
> start looking at what is in the tank that ay be raising the
ammonia level
> and keeping it up there (and why the tank does not seem to be
cycling). You
> mentioned something about adding seed pods--what, exactly, do you
mean by
> that? Did you add fertilizer of some sort when you added the
plants? And
> there can be other things to look at.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Ed
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question
>
> First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
> I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago
> in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15
> years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his
room.
> Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited
for
> about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live
plants.
> Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
> time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
> When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the
fish
> as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days.
Well
> it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of
> 5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a
Ph
> buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that
time,
> about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed
high.
> I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
> with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
> second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still
high,
> hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
> chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and
> have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
> three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
> feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
> owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish
> and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
> worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point.
Suggestions
> and thanks in advance. Ed
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17349 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: Steve and my ammonia
I know that the AquaTru kits use the correct reagents. However they can
be hard to find. The place I was getting the refills for the kits is no
longer online, and may well be out of business, and I haven't found a
replacement for them yet. You might want to look at the Hach and LaMotte
kits. You'll need to wait until I get home and have a chance to do
e-mail, and I can tell you which one is the better bet.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ed
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Steve and my ammonia

Hi Steve, Thanks for the info. The City of Chicago does indeed use four
different chloramines to treat its water. I do know that the source
water is the issue and not anything else in the aquarium. I think it is
just going to take the one thing to kick the aquarium over and we won't
have the problem anymore it is just finding the one thing. I am going
to try Amquel as you suggested. Can you recommend a test kit for
ammonia that has the salocylate reagents you are suggesting. I have the
Tetra Laborett test kit currently, but it says nothing about salocylates
on any of the literature or chemical bottles. Would I be looking for a
chemical agent or compound in particular? Thanks again in response. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You need to determine the source of the ammonia. Have you tested
the water
> out of the tap? Do that and then use your normal water treatment
and test
> the water again. If the ammonia level goes up, you will need to
change your
> water treatment regimen. I suggest using Amquel (no Plus). If
Chicago is
> using chloramines to treat the water, as many municipalities are
today, it
> will break the ammonia-chlorine bond, remove the chlorine and
convert the
> ammonia to a non-toxic (for fish) form so that you can get the
cycle
> started. If you do use the Amquel, you need to keep in mind that
the more
> common Nessler reagents do not work properly with it as a water
treatment,
> you need to use a kit that uses the salocylate reagents.
>
> If this is not the cause of your ammonia problem, then we would
need to
> start looking at what is in the tank that ay be raising the
ammonia level
> and keeping it up there (and why the tank does not seem to be
cycling). You
> mentioned something about adding seed pods--what, exactly, do you
mean by
> that? Did you add fertilizer of some sort when you added the
plants? And
> there can be other things to look at.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Ed
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question
>
> First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
> I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago in
> college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15 years.

> Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his
room.
> Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited
for
> about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live
plants.
> Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this time

> I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
> When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the
fish
> as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days.
Well
> it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of 5.
> Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a
Ph
> buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that
time,
> about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed
high.
> I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank with
> and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and second a
> few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still
high,
> hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo chips
> in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and have been
> using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have three
> surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a feeling it
> is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store owner who is
> knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be greatly
> appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish and fear
> adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation worse. I am
> just extrememly frustrated at this point.
Suggestions
> and thanks in advance. Ed
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17350 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Your cycle started when you added fish, and the cycle takes at least 30
days…sometimes 45 or 60 days.



The bacteria should grow OK at 83 degrees, but good that you lowered the
temp.



Don’t add any more fish until your nitrites spike and return to zero (at
least another two weeks).



Steve also responded…he is way more experienced than me, so continue with
him. Maybe he is familiar with Ammo Lock and whether it will impact the
growth of your bacteria.



Best of luck!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ed
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: new member and question



Hi. It has been two weeks since the fish were added and Nitrites
are <.03. I think the tank may have been too warm. It was hovering
about 83 due to the warmness outside and my son having his
thermometer set too high. We have the temp down now to about 77 or
so and holding steady. I think it just may have been too high to
grow the bacteria needed for the biological filter to kick in. Any
other ideas? Please advise. Thanks in advance. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> How many days/weeks has it been since you added the first fish?
>
>
>
> What are your Nitrites?
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of Ed
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question
>
>
>
> First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
> I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago
> in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15
> years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his room.
> Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited
for
> about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live plants.
> Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
> time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
> When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the
fish
> as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days.
Well
> it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of
> 5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a Ph
> buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that
time,
> about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed high.
> I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
> with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
> second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still
high,
> hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
> chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and
> have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
> three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
> feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
> owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish
> and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
> worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point. Suggestions
> and thanks in advance. Ed
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17351 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: "billroute"?
The bullrout (Notesthes robusta) is indeed a freshwater relative of the
stonefish but is only found in streams along the east coast of Australia. I
have never found them in the Northern Territory and have no references to
them being there. They are frequently responsible for painful stinging
injuries when stepped on by unwary creek explorers. The best treatment is
immersion in hot water (as hot as can be tolerated).

They make interesting aquarium subjects and prefer live food, although with
some effort they can be weaned onto frozen food. Obviously they should be
handled with appropriate care.

Cheers

Bruce (Hansen)

ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld.org.au/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hollyer Cart" <holladeen480@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 7:55 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] "billroute"?


>
>
> In Australia we call them bullrouts
> a fresh water relative of the stone fish found in Queensland and the
> northern territory
> all the best holly in Australia
> WARNING: Never dive or jump into the river - many pools are shallow.
> Bullrouts (freshwater stonefish) live in the river. Wear shoes when wading
> or swimming. If stung, apply hot (not scalding) water to the affected
> area.
> Seek medical attention.
>
>>From: "big_george_lake" <big_george_lake@...>
>>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [AquaticLife] "billroute"?
>>Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 05:05:46 -0000
>>
>>Greetings! Please, would you help me with a bit of information?
>>
>>I recently read a reference to an Australian fish called
>>
>>a "Billroute", reportedly a freshwater relative of the Stonefish.
>>
>>I cannot find info on the Internet under this name.
>>
>>Would you know of the latin name and/or a better-known common
>>
>>name?
>>
>>Thanks you for any assistance!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> New year, new job - there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK
> http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fninemsn%2Eseek%2Ecom%2Eau&_t=752315885&_r=Jan05_tagline&_m=EXT
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17352 From: Kevin Batey Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
The elevated temperature would have probably increased bacteria growth - of course it probably isn't too good for the fish!

I believe the PH plunge probably interfered with your beneficial bacteria - a PH of 5 usually whacks your biololgical filter.



Ed <SirEdofK@...> wrote:
Hi. It has been two weeks since the fish were added and Nitrites
are <.03. I think the tank may have been too warm. It was hovering
about 83 due to the warmness outside and my son having his
thermometer set too high. We have the temp down now to about 77 or
so and holding steady. I think it just may have been too high to
grow the bacteria needed for the biological filter to kick in. Any
other ideas? Please advise. Thanks in advance. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> How many days/weeks has it been since you added the first fish?
>
>
>
> What are your Nitrites?
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Ed
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question
>
>
>
> First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
> I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago
> in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15
> years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his room.
> Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited
for
> about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live plants.
> Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
> time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
> When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the
fish
> as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days.
Well
> it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of
> 5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a Ph
> buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that
time,
> about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed high.
> I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
> with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
> second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still
high,
> hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
> chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and
> have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
> three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
> feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
> owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish
> and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
> worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point. Suggestions
> and thanks in advance. Ed
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17353 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues
Have you tested your tap water. Perhaps it is high in nitrites, which could
be causing a high reading in the tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Brian
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues

Hi,

I got back into this hobby after being out of it for 20 years. When
did this get so complicated? Back then I didn't even hear of ammonia
problems, nitrites, etc. I just dechorlinated my water, kept my Ph
levels in check and added compatible fish. Most of the time I just
followed my instincts and had great success.

I seem to have a high mortality rate introducing new fish and it is
random. I can buy four fish and have them all die, buy four more
fish and have them all live for a couple of weeks, add four more (i
am stocking a new tank) and have two of them die within two days.

I am using Mardell dip strips to test my water. All tests come out
in the safe range, except the Nitrites, which tend to run high. I
have done about a 50% water change, and they are still running high.
My ammonia test strips indicate "safe".

I have two giant danios, two black skirt tetras, chinese algae eater,
four platy's and four neon tetras that seem to survive the ups and
downs in the water cycle(s) However, the last time I added fish, I
lost 50%.

My real discouragement is that this does not seem to be consistent.
The fish really do seem to perk up and get more active when I do a
water change, but I'm not having any mortality in existing fish, just
random mortality in introducing new fish. Plus, I am at a loss as to
how to get my nitrites down if water changes don't seem to be
accomplishing the goal.

Any suggestions?

P.S. I have an All-Glass 26 Gallon Bow-Front Aquarium using a Tetra
30 filter.

Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17354 From: Steve Page Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: 55 Gallon tank
How many 8 inch gold fish can go into my tank?
Thanks

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17355 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues
The reagents in the chemical test kits and the test strips you have been
using have a certain shelf life, and parameters that should be met when
storing them. Always look for expiration dates when buying any testing kits,
and if none is available, do not purchase that test kit.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ed
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues

Sounds like we are in somewhat of the same predicament with water
Brian. I did discover however, that the dip strips are highly
inaccurate. I switched to a chemical test kit after dip strips were
reading Ph at 7 but the chemical test came in at 5. You might
condisider swthcing your testing media for more accurate results.
Good luck. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <bpk116@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I got back into this hobby after being out of it for 20 years.
When
> did this get so complicated? Back then I didn't even hear of
ammonia
> problems, nitrites, etc. I just dechorlinated my water, kept my
Ph
> levels in check and added compatible fish. Most of the time I
just
> followed my instincts and had great success.
>
> I seem to have a high mortality rate introducing new fish and it
is
> random. I can buy four fish and have them all die, buy four more
> fish and have them all live for a couple of weeks, add four more
(i
> am stocking a new tank) and have two of them die within two days.
>
> I am using Mardell dip strips to test my water. All tests come
out
> in the safe range, except the Nitrites, which tend to run high. I
> have done about a 50% water change, and they are still running
high.
> My ammonia test strips indicate "safe".
>
> I have two giant danios, two black skirt tetras, chinese algae
eater,
> four platy's and four neon tetras that seem to survive the ups and
> downs in the water cycle(s) However, the last time I added fish,
I
> lost 50%.
>
> My real discouragement is that this does not seem to be
consistent.
> The fish really do seem to perk up and get more active when I do a
> water change, but I'm not having any mortality in existing fish,
just
> random mortality in introducing new fish. Plus, I am at a loss as
to
> how to get my nitrites down if water changes don't seem to be
> accomplishing the goal.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> P.S. I have an All-Glass 26 Gallon Bow-Front Aquarium using a
Tetra
> 30 filter.
>
> Thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17356 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: Steve and my ammonia
Ed,

I just got around to checking, and the Hach kit uses the salicylate reagent.
LaMotte offers both methods, but three fresh water kits it offers are
nessler kits. The salicylate kits take about 15-20 minutes for a test, the
nesslars take about 5 minutes.

Pretty much, you will see all the reagents coming from either one of the
above companies. They also have their own kits they offer for sale.

Once we make the determination of where the ammonia is coming from, and
start getting it under control, you'll need to remove the zeolites you are
using to try and remove the mania. If you don't, there will probably not be
enough free ammonia available to get the needed bacteria established and
growing for your cycle.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ed
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Steve and my ammonia

Hi Steve, Thanks for the info. The City of Chicago does indeed use
four different chloramines to treat its water. I do know that the
source water is the issue and not anything else in the aquarium. I
think it is just going to take the one thing to kick the aquarium
over and we won't have the problem anymore it is just finding the
one thing. I am going to try Amquel as you suggested. Can you
recommend a test kit for ammonia that has the salocylate reagents
you are suggesting. I have the Tetra Laborett test kit currently,
but it says nothing about salocylates on any of the literature or
chemical bottles. Would I be looking for a chemical agent or
compound in particular? Thanks again in response. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You need to determine the source of the ammonia. Have you tested
the water
> out of the tap? Do that and then use your normal water treatment
and test
> the water again. If the ammonia level goes up, you will need to
change your
> water treatment regimen. I suggest using Amquel (no Plus). If
Chicago is
> using chloramines to treat the water, as many municipalities are
today, it
> will break the ammonia-chlorine bond, remove the chlorine and
convert the
> ammonia to a non-toxic (for fish) form so that you can get the
cycle
> started. If you do use the Amquel, you need to keep in mind that
the more
> common Nessler reagents do not work properly with it as a water
treatment,
> you need to use a kit that uses the salocylate reagents.
>
> If this is not the cause of your ammonia problem, then we would
need to
> start looking at what is in the tank that ay be raising the
ammonia level
> and keeping it up there (and why the tank does not seem to be
cycling). You
> mentioned something about adding seed pods--what, exactly, do you
mean by
> that? Did you add fertilizer of some sort when you added the
plants? And
> there can be other things to look at.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Ed
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question
>
> First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
> I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago
> in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15
> years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his
room.
> Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited
for
> about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live
plants.
> Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
> time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
> When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the
fish
> as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days.
Well
> it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of
> 5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a
Ph
> buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that
time,
> about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed
high.
> I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
> with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
> second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still
high,
> hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
> chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and
> have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
> three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
> feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
> owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish
> and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
> worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point.
Suggestions
> and thanks in advance. Ed
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17357 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: New Here
Most water lilies will require 6 hours of sun per day to bloom. Some of them
you can squeeze a bit and only give 5 hours, but it would be hit or miss,
and I'd not go less than that. Most other plants should do just fine, so
long s it is not a deep shade. If you have a water garden supplier (not one
of those nurseries that have added water gardens to their stock because they
are now popular) get your plants there after asking about your particular
situation.

You can have 2 goldfish of the size you mention in the amount of water you
have. If you don't really need to have goldfish (remember, you are going to
have to bring them in to winter over), try some of the hardier tropicals. In
Massachusetts, in a much larger pond, I've had paradise fish, green
swordtails, white clouds, and other sundry species out til mid-October with
no ill effects, except my frozen body parts netting them out with a seine.
Nearly any aquarium fish can be a candidate for such a setup, but be wary of
those species that tend to be jumpers. The same procedures should be used as
you use to maintain your aquariums.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Page
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Here

Hi, I am new here and I started my pond last week. It is a small 50 gallon
pond for viewing and to keep a few small fish in. A big problem I have
encountered is that the area is in part shade. Does anyone know some water
plants that can live with 3-5 hours of sun a day and go deeper than 1 foot?
How many 6 inch gold fish could call it home? I am starting to put a two
layer rock border to hide the liner does anyone have any pictures of this? I
am having a hard time with it. I live in Maine so it gets cold here during
the winter should I take the plants and fish in then?
Thanks for all of the help!
-Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17358 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: Also
Add a foam block to the intake, and it will provide your filtration as well.
Also, do not use copper as the spout for the water out of the frog's mouth.
Brass will work well, as would iron, but it is likely to rust. Best would be
a hard plastic tube.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Page
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Also

I also plan to have an iron frog spitting water from its mouth. I have the
frog and pump, all I need to do it is have a hole drilled through the hollow
frogs mouth. Will this be enough aeration for fish?
Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17359 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: 55 Gallon tank
No more than two.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Page
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 9:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] 55 Gallon tank

How many 8 inch gold fish can go into my tank?
Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17360 From: Steve Page Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: New (two months into this) Aquarium Issues
Hi, I am new here and I started my pond last week. It is a small 50 gallon pond for viewing and to keep a few small fish in. A big problem I have encountered is that the area is in part shade. Does anyone know some water plants that can live with 3-5 hours of sun a day and go deeper than 1 foot? How many 6 inch gold fish could call it home? I am starting to put a two layer rock border to hide the liner does anyone have any pictures of this? I am having a hard time with it. I live in Maine so it gets cold here during the winter should I take the plants and fish in then?
Thanks for all of the help!
-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17361 From: EARLdaPEARL Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Worm like swinmmers in my tank
hello Everyone,

In 2 of my flowerhorn tanks, i can see very tiny tiny tiny white spots on the tank. When i looked closely, i can see them moving/crawling. What are they? Are they harmless? i do 40% weekly water change, so i dont see any reason for unknown creatures to grow in my tank. Theese really gets me irritated. Nontheless, my flowerhorns are healthy. Please help.

Thanks in advance everybody. :)


EARLdaPEARL
4 FlowerHorns
1 Silver Arowana
1 Australian Arowana
1 Malaysian Gold Arowana

My Monster Game Link
http://world2.monstersgame.co.uk/?ac=vid&vid=31108454




---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17362 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/28/2006
Subject: Re: Also
From my own point of view, I would not advise using an iron decoration for
underwater use. Its deadly to your fish.

karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17363 From: Regina Haynes Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Re: Worm like swinmmers in my tank
Earl,

I had the same things in my tank a while back. I treated my tank with an antiparasite treatment and they eventually went away. I never did figure out what they were, but my oscar remained healthy. If you find out, let me know.

Regina

EARLdaPEARL <earl_at_pearl@...> wrote:
hello Everyone,

In 2 of my flowerhorn tanks, i can see very tiny tiny tiny white spots on the tank. When i looked closely, i can see them moving/crawling. What are they? Are they harmless? i do 40% weekly water change, so i dont see any reason for unknown creatures to grow in my tank. Theese really gets me irritated. Nontheless, my flowerhorns are healthy. Please help.

Thanks in advance everybody. :)


EARLdaPEARL
4 FlowerHorns
1 Silver Arowana
1 Australian Arowana
1 Malaysian Gold Arowana

My Monster Game Link
http://world2.monstersgame.co.uk/?ac=vid&vid=31108454




---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17364 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Re: Steve and my ammonia
Mania should read ammonia. I got carried away with the spell check <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Steve and my ammonia

Ed,

I just got around to checking, and the Hach kit uses the salicylate reagent.
LaMotte offers both methods, but three fresh water kits it offers are
nessler kits. The salicylate kits take about 15-20 minutes for a test, the
nesslars take about 5 minutes.

Pretty much, you will see all the reagents coming from either one of the
above companies. They also have their own kits they offer for sale.

Once we make the determination of where the ammonia is coming from, and
start getting it under control, you'll need to remove the zeolites you are
using to try and remove the mania. If you don't, there will probably not be
enough free ammonia available to get the needed bacteria established and
growing for your cycle.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ed
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Steve and my ammonia

Hi Steve, Thanks for the info. The City of Chicago does indeed use
four different chloramines to treat its water. I do know that the
source water is the issue and not anything else in the aquarium. I
think it is just going to take the one thing to kick the aquarium
over and we won't have the problem anymore it is just finding the
one thing. I am going to try Amquel as you suggested. Can you
recommend a test kit for ammonia that has the salocylate reagents
you are suggesting. I have the Tetra Laborett test kit currently,
but it says nothing about salocylates on any of the literature or
chemical bottles. Would I be looking for a chemical agent or
compound in particular? Thanks again in response. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You need to determine the source of the ammonia. Have you tested
the water
> out of the tap? Do that and then use your normal water treatment
and test
> the water again. If the ammonia level goes up, you will need to
change your
> water treatment regimen. I suggest using Amquel (no Plus). If
Chicago is
> using chloramines to treat the water, as many municipalities are
today, it
> will break the ammonia-chlorine bond, remove the chlorine and
convert the
> ammonia to a non-toxic (for fish) form so that you can get the
cycle
> started. If you do use the Amquel, you need to keep in mind that
the more
> common Nessler reagents do not work properly with it as a water
treatment,
> you need to use a kit that uses the salocylate reagents.
>
> If this is not the cause of your ammonia problem, then we would
need to
> start looking at what is in the tank that ay be raising the
ammonia level
> and keeping it up there (and why the tank does not seem to be
cycling). You
> mentioned something about adding seed pods--what, exactly, do you
mean by
> that? Did you add fertilizer of some sort when you added the
plants? And
> there can be other things to look at.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Ed
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question
>
> First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
> I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years ago
> in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about 15
> years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his
room.
> Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited
for
> about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live
plants.
> Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
> time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
> When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the
fish
> as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days.
Well
> it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph of
> 5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a
Ph
> buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that
time,
> about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed
high.
> I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
> with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
> second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still
high,
> hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
> chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks) and
> have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
> three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
> feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
> owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional fish
> and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
> worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point.
Suggestions
> and thanks in advance. Ed
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17365 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Re: Also
I've not seen anything in the literature or in my own experience to indicate
that there is a problem with iron and fish. In fact, those who grow live
plants may be adding iron to their tanks to help the plants grow albeit in
very small amounts.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 1:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Also

From my own point of view, I would not advise using an iron decoration for
underwater use. Its deadly to your fish.

karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17366 From: Steve Page Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Re: Also
It is raised abouve water.

----- Original Message -----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 1:26 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Also


From my own point of view, I would not advise using an iron decoration for
underwater use. Its deadly to your fish.

karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.6/378 - Release Date: 6/28/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17367 From: dragonman_999 Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Pop Eye?
Ok, so I called the pet store a while back and described a condition
that one of my fish is showing. It was showing the symptoms of pop eye
for some bit of time, so after a week or two I started the tank on
Maracyn. Now the eye seems to have almost like subdermal necrosis
(destruction of tissue under the skin). I don't know what else to do.
I am not sure what type of goldfish they are but only one is effected.
It always had sort of buggy eyes but it is not even funny how much
this eye has swelled. It is kept in a 10 gallon aquarium with another
goldfish of similar species. If anyone has any idea what this could be
please let me know. I don't want my fish to die.

Thanks
Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17368 From: Paul Date: 6/29/2006
Subject: Community or Semi-Aggressive Fish Tank?
I’ve always thought of my tank as a nice peaceful community fish tank.
But I’ve had several people tell me that it’s more of a
semi-aggressive fish tank.

I have the following fish in my freshwater tank.
-One Hypostomus Plecostomus about two years old.
-One Striped Raphael Catfish about one and a half years old.
-One Spotted Raphael Catfish about one and a half years old.
-Two Flying Foxes (Epalzeorhynchus kallopterus) both about a year old.
-Three Neon Tetras less than a year old.

They were all in a 20 gallon tank up until about two months ago when I
moved them to a 75 gallon tank. They also have plenty of plants and
caves.

So with the bigger tank, I’d like to get a few more fish. If it’s
really more of a semi-aggressive fish tank, then I need to be careful
about what fish I get. But there are fish of both kinds that I’d want
to get. So I need to know before I get any fish... is it more of a
Community or Semi-Aggressive Fish Tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17369 From: mitzizot Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: Pop Eye?
Goldfish as a general don't do well in tanks, especially small aquariums,
they require frequent mass water changes and excellent filtration as they
are a dirty fish. They are [prone to illness due to poor water quality.

.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17370 From: Steve Page Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: New Here
What are some tropical fish I could put in that get like 3-5 inches so they are noticeable to viewers?

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:33 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New Here


Most water lilies will require 6 hours of sun per day to bloom. Some of them
you can squeeze a bit and only give 5 hours, but it would be hit or miss,
and I'd not go less than that. Most other plants should do just fine, so
long s it is not a deep shade. If you have a water garden supplier (not one
of those nurseries that have added water gardens to their stock because they
are now popular) get your plants there after asking about your particular
situation.

You can have 2 goldfish of the size you mention in the amount of water you
have. If you don't really need to have goldfish (remember, you are going to
have to bring them in to winter over), try some of the hardier tropicals. In
Massachusetts, in a much larger pond, I've had paradise fish, green
swordtails, white clouds, and other sundry species out til mid-October with
no ill effects, except my frozen body parts netting them out with a seine.
Nearly any aquarium fish can be a candidate for such a setup, but be wary of
those species that tend to be jumpers. The same procedures should be used as
you use to maintain your aquariums.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Page
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Here

Hi, I am new here and I started my pond last week. It is a small 50 gallon
pond for viewing and to keep a few small fish in. A big problem I have
encountered is that the area is in part shade. Does anyone know some water
plants that can live with 3-5 hours of sun a day and go deeper than 1 foot?
How many 6 inch gold fish could call it home? I am starting to put a two
layer rock border to hide the liner does anyone have any pictures of this? I
am having a hard time with it. I live in Maine so it gets cold here during
the winter should I take the plants and fish in then?
Thanks for all of the help!
-Steve






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.6/378 - Release Date: 6/28/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17371 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: Community or Semi-Aggressive Fish Tank?
Sounds peaceful to me.


Not sure about the flying foxes. There will always be tank dynamics,
and sometimes it just depends on the personalities of the fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17372 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: New Here
The first two I mentioned by name will do well for your needs. You could
also look at some of the gouramis. However, gouramis as paradise fish are
territorial, though it is mostly conspecific, though they have been known to
harass other fish.

Just sit down with a good book, and take a look at the fish in it that would
intrigue you and meet your criteria, as well as the water temperature you
might expect--that small a body of water will usually be fairly close to the
average air temperature for your area, warming during the day and cooling at
night. (For those who will freak out because the fish are not being kept in
a stable temperature, don't worry, they can handle it.) Then take a list and
see what your LFS's have in stock. If there is a must have fish you can't
find, see if you can have your favorite store order it for you.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Page
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 11:07 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New Here

What are some tropical fish I could put in that get like 3-5 inches so they
are noticeable to viewers?

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:33 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New Here


Most water lilies will require 6 hours of sun per day to bloom. Some of
them
you can squeeze a bit and only give 5 hours, but it would be hit or miss,
and I'd not go less than that. Most other plants should do just fine, so
long s it is not a deep shade. If you have a water garden supplier (not
one
of those nurseries that have added water gardens to their stock because
they
are now popular) get your plants there after asking about your particular
situation.

You can have 2 goldfish of the size you mention in the amount of water you
have. If you don't really need to have goldfish (remember, you are going
to
have to bring them in to winter over), try some of the hardier tropicals.
In
Massachusetts, in a much larger pond, I've had paradise fish, green
swordtails, white clouds, and other sundry species out til mid-October
with
no ill effects, except my frozen body parts netting them out with a seine.
Nearly any aquarium fish can be a candidate for such a setup, but be wary
of
those species that tend to be jumpers. The same procedures should be used
as
you use to maintain your aquariums.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Page
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Here

Hi, I am new here and I started my pond last week. It is a small 50 gallon
pond for viewing and to keep a few small fish in. A big problem I have
encountered is that the area is in part shade. Does anyone know some water
plants that can live with 3-5 hours of sun a day and go deeper than 1
foot?
How many 6 inch gold fish could call it home? I am starting to put a two
layer rock border to hide the liner does anyone have any pictures of this?
I
am having a hard time with it. I live in Maine so it gets cold here during
the winter should I take the plants and fish in then?
Thanks for all of the help!
-Steve






----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.6/378 - Release Date: 6/28/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17373 From: Ed Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Thanks to all who have helped. I think we have a handle on it now
and it sounds like it is a bit of a waiting game with lots of water
testing. Anyhow, I also got some information from a vet friend of
mine. Ammo Lock does not remove ammonia. I did not know this. It
simply detoxifies it so it is not harmful to fish. Then you need to
wait for your bio filter to break it down and remove it.
Regardless, amonia test kits will still read as ammonia in the
habitat. The Amquel product Steve recommended actually removes it.
Anyhow, thanks to all once again and I will try and update in a week
or so after my bacteria percolate. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Batey <wkevinb@...> wrote:
>
> The elevated temperature would have probably increased bacteria
growth - of course it probably isn't too good for the fish!
>
> I believe the PH plunge probably interfered with your beneficial
bacteria - a PH of 5 usually whacks your biololgical filter.
>
>
>
> Ed <SirEdofK@...> wrote:
> Hi. It has been two weeks since the fish were added and
Nitrites
> are <.03. I think the tank may have been too warm. It was hovering
> about 83 due to the warmness outside and my son having his
> thermometer set too high. We have the temp down now to about 77 or
> so and holding steady. I think it just may have been too high to
> grow the bacteria needed for the biological filter to kick in. Any
> other ideas? Please advise. Thanks in advance. Ed
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > How many days/weeks has it been since you added the first fish?
> >
> >
> >
> > What are your Nitrites?
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Ed
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:40 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] new member and question
> >
> >
> >
> > First, Hi all. Hoep today finds everyone well.
> > I have a question/problem. I have had aquariums several years
ago
> > in college and beyond but have been out of the hobby for about
15
> > years. Just got back in as my son wanted an aquarium for his
room.
> > Fine and all, built a stand and set one up (30 gallons). Waited
> for
> > about a week and then put in some seed pods and three live
plants.
> > Waited another two weeks and got some Zebra Danios (5). All this
> > time I have been testing water and coming up with high ammonia.
> > When we got the ammonia down to about .25 is when we added the
> fish
> > as it looked as it was continuing to go down for several days.
> Well
> > it turns out our Ph test kit was bad and the water was at a Ph
of
> > 5. Well, executed a water change of 7 gallons or so, and used a
Ph
> > buffer. Got the Ph back to 7 in about two days but since that
> time,
> > about two weeks ago, the ammonia has gone back up and stayed
high.
> > I have city of Chicago water, which we initially filled the tank
> > with and treated, but have executed water changes, the first and
> > second a few days ago, with distilled water. Ammonia is still
> high,
> > hovering around 1.5 and I can't get it to go down. I have ammo
> > chips in the power filter (for the past two and a half weeks)
and
> > have been using Ammo Lock but with no results. Currently we have
> > three surviving danios that appear to be doing well but I have a
> > feeling it is just a matter of time. We have a local pet store
> > owner who is knowledgeable but also stumped. Any help would be
> > greatly appreciated. I don't want to endanger any additional
fish
> > and fear adding any anyway would only make the ammonia situation
> > worse. I am just extrememly frustrated at this point.
Suggestions
> > and thanks in advance. Ed
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17374 From: ROBERT ZANUSSI Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: Also
Again, I have to question this. All that occurs is it rusts (Iron oxide) If this was poisonous to fish, then why do so many shelter in and around sunken ships. I am refering to ships in both fresh and salt water.

Rob




> From my own point of view, I would not advise using an iron
> decoration for
> underwater use. Its deadly to your fish.
>
> karen
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17375 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Re: Also
Rob, iron is necesary in small dilutions...in overdoses it poisons even
people. Too small a space

> Again, I have to question this. All that occurs is it rusts (Iron
oxide) If this was poisonous to fish, then why do so many shelter in
and around sunken ships. I am refering to ships in both fresh and salt
water.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17376 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 6/30/2006
Subject: Transport
Well, it appears that my husband may be transferred down to Lewiston Idaho,
and, oh boy, I am going to have to transport my swimming babies. This may be
in 6 months.
Due to my attatchment to them, I am just not going to be able to take them
back to the pet store. I have 2 angels, 3 balas, 1 Dempsey, 1 tinfoil barb, 2
platinum mollies, 1 pictus catfish, 1 cory cat, 2 plecostamus, 1 ghost knife
fish, 1 female betta, and snails. Anybody have lots of info on how to
transport these? We are looking at about a trip of 6-7 hours. How can this be done?
Who shares the buckets? Should I have air tube in the water?
What about when I get there? Should I set up the tanks, fill them, let the
water sit for 24 hours and treat the water?
Help..........

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17377 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Karen,

Should be a piece of cake.

Prior to the move, check with your dealer for large plastic fish bags and,
perhaps, a styrofoam box that he receives the fish in. If you've been a good
customer, you'll likely get the stuff for free, but off to pay for it anyway
(How much will it cost me for X number of bags and a styro or two?). You do
not mention the sizes of your fish so I can't say what size the bags should
be, but your dealer can also help you there and get you the right sized
bags.

Two days before the move, stop feeding the fish. You want them to finish
digesting the food and eliminate as much waste as possible before bagging
them. On the day of the move, the lat thing to do is to bag the fish. You
will not want to put in more water than will fill the bag 1/3 the way. Then
put the fish in the bag. Then, if you wish, you can fill the airspace with
oxygen from a container you have purchased or just tie the bag. Either way,
there is a bit of a trick to tying a bag. You need to tie it is such a way
as to give the maximum amount of air in the bag--so it seems to be inflated.
I can do it, but I can't explain it <g>. Perhaps someone else here can. Then
place the bag in the styro. If you have live plants, you can either bag
those or just wrap them in newspaper, and place them with the fish in the
styro.

It may also pay to add a dollop of water conditioner to each bag or a piece
of--someone needs to help me out here--I haven't finished my morning
caffeine fix--it's a fibrous material that will absorb a certain amount of
ammonia. (POLYFILTER--That's it--polyfilter!)

If you are able to determine the water parameters prior to your move, and
they are close to your current parameters, you'll be able to forgo the
moving of the water left in the tank. If not, empty the remaining water into
a new trash pail (the plastic type--Rubbermaid, of what ever) and place it
on the moving truck. Keep the gravel wet, and cover with plastic and
newspaper (newspaper first) so that you'll have some bacteria to start with.
If you can keep the filter media wet as well, you are ahead of the game.

Once you arrive at your new home, set up the tank first. Add the reserved
water, plants, set-up the filter, and add the fish. Then unpack everything
else. If you are using water available at your new home, fill the tank to
approximately the height it was when you finished packing the fish. Use
water the approximate temperature of the water in the bags, by mixing hot
and cold to reach the desired temperature. Add the appropriate water
treatment and then add the fish. Keep the tank dark the first day or two,
and feed a light diet. Test the water every day, looking for ammonia and
nitrite spikes, since you are likely to go through a mini-cycle at least.
Should the ammonia be getting out of hand, treat with Amquel, so the cycle
will continue to do its thing, while your fish will be protected.

Once the tank as settled in, resume your normal maintenance schedule.

You may lose one or two fish, but most likely they will all survive the
move. If you do lose a fish or two, that would indicate that, perhaps, they
were not in the bet of shape to begin, though you may not have recognized it
at the time.

I wish you success with the entire move.

Is it true that Idaho will be shipping baked potatoes this year because of
the heat they have been getting? <G>


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 12:50 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Transport

Well, it appears that my husband may be transferred down to Lewiston Idaho,

and, oh boy, I am going to have to transport my swimming babies. This may be

in 6 months.
Due to my attatchment to them, I am just not going to be able to take them
back to the pet store. I have 2 angels, 3 balas, 1 Dempsey, 1 tinfoil barb,
2
platinum mollies, 1 pictus catfish, 1 cory cat, 2 plecostamus, 1 ghost knife

fish, 1 female betta, and snails. Anybody have lots of info on how to
transport these? We are looking at about a trip of 6-7 hours. How can this
be done?
Who shares the buckets? Should I have air tube in the water?
What about when I get there? Should I set up the tanks, fill them, let the
water sit for 24 hours and treat the water?
Help..........

Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17378 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: Pop Eye?
I just went through a case of pop eye and fin rot in my 90 gallon. I took
out all the filter media and treated my tank with maracyn pills for the 7 days
it indicated. water quality plays a big part in controlling the growth of
harmful bacteria. cleaning the gravel, hard to get spaces, and rotting plant and
food material is a way in controlling bad bacteria from growing. If you have
a small 1 gallon tank, you could try a salt bath as well. hare are some
really beneficial sites about fish disease.
karen

_Tropical Fish Centre - Fish Diseases_
(http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm)
_Fish Disease diagnosis & fish disease treatments_
(http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17379 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: New Here
Lots. Go to Dr Fosters and Smith and check out all the freshwater fish you
can get at that size.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17380 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
I got cartriges called Aqua Clear that remove ammonia from the water. It
really does help.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17381 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Not sure about the Potato deal. I just hope the snow will be nice and deep
in the winter.
As for the bagging of fish, it will be about a 6-7 hour trip. Won't I have
to open the bags during the trip to let in air again? I thought about a few 5
gallon buckets transporting the fish. is that not a good idea?
Thank you for all the info. I have 5 cats and a German Shepherd to move as
well. Fun, fun, fun.
Oh, and a 1 year old child. That's the easy one.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17382 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Better to blow up the bags with oxygen as Steve suggested. Then they will
be bagged just like the internet dealers air freight them to you.they live
more than 24 hours in those bags!



(Watch the temp in the car.)



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 1:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Transport



Not sure about the Potato deal. I just hope the snow will be nice and deep
in the winter.
As for the bagging of fish, it will be about a 6-7 hour trip. Won't I have
to open the bags during the trip to let in air again? I thought about a few
5
gallon buckets transporting the fish. is that not a good idea?
Thank you for all the info. I have 5 cats and a German Shepherd to move as
well. Fun, fun, fun.
Oh, and a 1 year old child. That's the easy one.

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17383 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
Trade the german sheppard for a border collie. The bc can then herd the cats
for you. <g>

If you can use oxygen, you will not need to open the bags for a few days. If
you do not, and are able to tie it right, so the bag is tight with at least
2/3 air and you lay the bags on their side, keep the fish in the dark, you
should be OK for a day.

You can use the buckets. But, remember water weighs 8.4 pounds per gallon.
The water will have a tendency to slosh in the buckets, so if they are not
placed in a good position, they could move or even tip. If the covers are
not tight fitting, then the water can leak, leading to its own problems.
I've done it both ways, and prefer the bagging method, especially with so
few fish.

FWIW, bagging is the way most fish are shipped from overseas, from Florida,
from anywhere. They eventually get to a wholesaler that deals with your LFS,
in bags, and are sent to him, or he brings them back, in bags.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 1:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Transport

Not sure about the Potato deal. I just hope the snow will be nice and deep
in the winter.
As for the bagging of fish, it will be about a 6-7 hour trip. Won't I have
to open the bags during the trip to let in air again? I thought about a few
5
gallon buckets transporting the fish. is that not a good idea?
Thank you for all the info. I have 5 cats and a German Shepherd to move as
well. Fun, fun, fun.
Oh, and a 1 year old child. That's the easy one.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17384 From: mitzizot Date: 7/1/2006
Subject: Re: new member and question
Unplug the thermometer. You won't need it. I live in Texas and even with
the air conditioning on I have a fan blowing on my tank to cool it down.

Gena

.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17385 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
If you have cories don't use straight oxygen as they get a gulp of "air" now
and then and pure Oxygen is probably not ok.

a message dated 7/1/2006 12:17:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
djransome@... writes:



Better to blow up the bags with oxygen as Steve suggested. Then they will
be bagged just like the internet dealers air freight them to you.they live
more than 24 hours in those bags!









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17386 From: Judy R Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
As an added precaution, If it will be "cold" during your move, you can also purchase heat packs (you can buy heat backs that last anywhere from 24+ hours) to keep the fish warm. Place newspaper over bags of fish you packed in the styrofoam containers and attach the heat packs to the lid of the styrofoam container with packing tape. The amount of heat packs you need will be determined by the size of the container(s).

I hope this helps. You can purchase these heat packs online. I buy mine at www.aquabid.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17387 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: Re: Transport
I have a foot pump that I blow up my daughters pool stuff with and an
inflatable bed. It would be a cinch to use that..
karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17388 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: African Cichlids
I would like to plan in the future, a large tank just for African Cichlids.
I think they are such pretty fish. They are too aggressive for any tank I
have.
I especially like the yellow and the Electric blue ones. All the yellow and
blue with black ones are really beautiful. I will throw some red in there as
well. I will probably be told that if you have an "all species" tank, I will
be dealing with a lot of bullying. I know nothing about them. can you have a
large school of them in one tank? I do not really have any interest in
breeding fish. If however it happens, I will tend to it like I should.
As for "cleaner fish" anyone know how they are with plecos or catfish?
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17389 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: 90 gallon cleanout.
I am saving all the information from you guys in a folder marked transport
so I can look back on them when we move. Found a few homes, now, I need to
check on the water quality there.

OK. I did a cleanout today on my 90 gallon today. I had to.It only has been
4 months and I had tons of rotted plant matter, food, ect stuck in places that
obviously never got good flow through enough to get cleaned out.
So, I removed all the plants, rocks, driftwood and rinsed them real good.
Then I let the tank sit for a little bit so all the debris settled. Then I used
a hose to syphen out all the rotted matted. I took the water level down to at
least 50% or more. But, I got it cleaned really well.
I know a lot of people would never take out that much but, I do replace the
water with equal temperature water. My tap water is pure of all bad stuff,
but, I put water conditioner in, plus stress coat to replace any loss of slime
coat due to stress.
Through experience, I now learned to use rocks to weigh my plants down.
Seems like my dempsey, Ghost Knife Fish, and my pleco and pictus catfish all like
to undue the fun I have planting plants. Now, I think I got em good.
I am still trying to now learn that the more decor you have, the more it
does interfere with proper flow in the tank where a lot of debris will get stuck
and tend to bring up the Nitrites. I have large apple snails that do some
clean up. Just 2 weeks ago I added a dozen Malaysian Trumpet snails. I know, I
know. They multiply worse than rabbits. I am looking forward to benefitting
from their presence in my tank. I will deal with over population when I have
to. Its worth it.
Now, I am just happy to see a really cool, clean looking tank.
I have put my 2 angels, my 1 female betta, my 2 white mollies, and my cory
in the 29. Now there is only my 3 balas, 1 tinfoil barb, 1 dempsey, 1 Ghost
knife fish, 1 pleco, and 1 pictus catfish in my 90. All aggressive fish. When I
go to a bigger tank, I think I will add an oscar.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17390 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/2/2006
Subject: Re: 90 gallon cleanout.
I wanted to add that when I pulled out a lot of plants and rocks, I caught
smell of something that almost smelled like rotten eggs. Really really nasty. I
remember someone on this list just recently posted an episode with the same
stench from their tank and realized that it was a dead fish.
I did not have any dead fish but, a lot of rotted plant matter. YUCK!! What
a stink. I can imagine that's why I had such high nitrite readings.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17391 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: African Cichlids
Can tell you what I have for cleaners in the different cichlid tanks around here with I'll say a wide range of residents LOL have several plain wrapper plecos, they hold their own, about every 6 months trade in the ones getting to be lunkers and start with a new group of 3" to replace them. Catfish only have a few now, driftwood cats (I refer to them as the pot bellied pigs of the fish world) and a mystus cat who do a pretty good job though not the out and about sociable kind of fish as some of the other cats I've had.
The fish part of choices well there are so many and just not enough tank space!! Have got a few mixed communities that are in the same range of water needs that work well, but don't always work for others course these are probably too fat to bicker, and hubby says one group in particuliar would die if they didn't have their mommy LOL If you are thinking along the lines of Yellow labs/Lemon yellows they are pretty peaceful over the consensus of most (personally don't keep these any longer kind of went a little different direction there), have a colony of Electric Blue Haps. great group of fish (1M/5F) that live with a colony of Labeotropheus fuelleborni's. Then the orange have a thing for OB fish so that part was fixed with a group of OB esthraes in another tank, these are really peaceful for a cichlid have had really good luck with them considering they have been moved here and there with some still growing out no causualties to cichlid wars have been contributed to
them (course again think all the fish no matter what species around here is just too fat to bicker). A tad down on my normal cichlid occupancies only 14 tanks of them right now, with another 3 tanks waiting for their residents (discus) coming in later this week.
With cichlids not all live, act, respond, think, etc... as the next each one has it's own personality. (K) I've totally rambled, Shannon

Morganawolf1@... wrote:
I would like to plan in the future, a large tank just for African Cichlids.
I think they are such pretty fish. They are too aggressive for any tank I
have.
I especially like the yellow and the Electric blue ones. All the yellow and
blue with black ones are really beautiful. I will throw some red in there as
well. I will probably be told that if you have an "all species" tank, I will
be dealing with a lot of bullying. I know nothing about them. can you have a
large school of them in one tank? I do not really have any interest in
breeding fish. If however it happens, I will tend to it like I should.
As for "cleaner fish" anyone know how they are with plecos or catfish?
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17392 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: African Cichlids
I just picked up some at the pet store the other day...melonchromis auratus.
They are interesting little guys... Of course I would just happen to choose
one of the more challenging species, from what I have been reading. good
thing I like a challenge.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shannon Mulberry
Sent: Monday, 03 July 2006 02:21
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] African Cichlids



Can tell you what I have for cleaners in the different cichlid tanks around
here with I'll say a wide range of residents LOL have several plain wrapper
plecos, they hold their own, about every 6 months trade in the ones getting
to be lunkers and start with a new group of 3" to replace them. Catfish only
have a few now, driftwood cats (I refer to them as the pot bellied pigs of
the fish world) and a mystus cat who do a pretty good job though not the out
and about sociable kind of fish as some of the other cats I've had.
The fish part of choices well there are so many and just not enough tank
space!! Have got a few mixed communities that are in the same range of water
needs that work well, but don't always work for others course these are
probably too fat to bicker, and hubby says one group in particuliar would
die if they didn't have their mommy LOL If you are thinking along the lines
of Yellow labs/Lemon yellows they are pretty peaceful over the consensus of
most (personally don't keep these any longer kind of went a little different
direction there), have a colony of Electric Blue Haps. great group of fish
(1M/5F) that live with a colony of Labeotropheus fuelleborni's. Then the
orange have a thing for OB fish so that part was fixed with a group of OB
esthraes in another tank, these are really peaceful for a cichlid have had
really good luck with them considering they have been moved here and there
with some still growing out no causualties to cichlid wars have been
contributed to
them (course again think all the fish no matter what species around here is
just too fat to bicker). A tad down on my normal cichlid occupancies only 14
tanks of them right now, with another 3 tanks waiting for their residents
(discus) coming in later this week.
With cichlids not all live, act, respond, think, etc... as the next each one
has it's own personality. (K) I've totally rambled, Shannon

Morganawolf1@ <mailto:Morganawolf1%40aol.com> aol.com wrote:
I would like to plan in the future, a large tank just for African Cichlids.
I think they are such pretty fish. They are too aggressive for any tank I
have.
I especially like the yellow and the Electric blue ones. All the yellow and
blue with black ones are really beautiful. I will throw some red in there as

well. I will probably be told that if you have an "all species" tank, I will

be dealing with a lot of bullying. I know nothing about them. can you have a

large school of them in one tank? I do not really have any interest in
breeding fish. If however it happens, I will tend to it like I should.
As for "cleaner fish" anyone know how they are with plecos or catfish?
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17393 From: Hollyer Cart Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: African Cichlids
Karen I do hope we can have such a tank , my daughter and I just stocked
ours
pelcos included
holly

>From: Morganawolf1@...
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] African Cichlids
>Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2006 22:46:18 EDT
>
>I would like to plan in the future, a large tank just for African Cichlids.
>I think they are such pretty fish. They are too aggressive for any tank I
>have.
>I especially like the yellow and the Electric blue ones. All the yellow and
>blue with black ones are really beautiful. I will throw some red in there
>as
>well. I will probably be told that if you have an "all species" tank, I
>will
>be dealing with a lot of bullying. I know nothing about them. can you have
>a
>large school of them in one tank? I do not really have any interest in
>breeding fish. If however it happens, I will tend to it like I should.
>As for "cleaner fish" anyone know how they are with plecos or catfish?
>Karen
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

_________________________________________________________________
New year, new job � there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17394 From: Ed Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Live plants and ammonia?
Someone told me, in my trials and tribualtions with getting my sons
aquarium going, that live plants produce ammonia as a by product (off
photosynthesis). Does anyone know is this true. I did not think
plants produced ammonia. Please let me know. Thanks, Ed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17395 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Maybe rotted plant matter can produce it but, I never heard of plants
themselves producing it.
Anything that produces waste can get your cycle going. Getting a small fish
can do it, even food, you can even buy natural beneficial bacteria to get it
going. Remember, the cycle has to complete itself in order for the balance to
be attained. getting too many fish can trigger the ammonia spike, but, it can
also cause fish death. Some fish are hardy enough to withstand the cycle,
but, that's up to you.Small water changes can be done if the ammonia level does
get too high, but small amounts only.
I am one of the many out there who was impatient and went through the cycle
pulling my hair out. I had a lot of fish and I could not do anything to ease
the cycle because it has to go through it to balance out.
Even taking matter from an already established tank can do it as well.
remember, if you want to do the cycle with live fish, make sure they are
hardy.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17396 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
The plant produce CO2 in the night when off of photosynthesis, it's the
grill of the fish who produce the ammonia ( a side of the decomposition of
the food , urine etc. ) but the leave who decompose can effectively produce
ammonia. But not the one alive.

Gerard







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Ed
Envoyé : 3 juillet, 2006 14:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Live plants and ammonia?

Someone told me, in my trials and tribualtions with getting my sons
aquarium going, that live plants produce ammonia as a by product (off
photosynthesis). Does anyone know is this true. I did not think
plants produced ammonia. Please let me know. Thanks, Ed







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17397 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Well, if you are raising blue green algae, then they may have a
point--"blue green algae (cyanobacteria) like Nostoc and Calothrix can
fix nitrogen yielding ammonia as a stable end product" (from
http://bellnetweb.brc.tamus.edu/effects.htm).

pH does affect ammonia toxicity. The daily photosynthesis of plants can
and will affect the pH level in a tank that has enough plants. During
the active period, photosynthesis will remove CO2 from the water column,
increasing pH, and at night, the plants will release CO2, since
photosynthesis is not occurring, which will lower pH. Ad pH rises,
ammonia becomes more toxic. You can read a short article about this
process in ponds here: http://www.ca.uky.edu/wkrec/pH-Ammonia.htm

This latter reason may have given rise to the idea that photosynthesis
causes ammonia. Indeed, it does not. It is merely a function of pH that
makes the ammonia seem to be more prevalent than it was at an earlier
measurement.

FWIW, if you really want to get into it, there are a number of books
that have been written on aquatic photosynthesis that you may want to
find and peruse, should your interest be enough. I don't own one of
them, but they are out there.

Also, do keep in mind that nitrogen is necessary for good plant growth
and health.

No one ever seriously claimed water chemistry was easy <g>.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ed
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 2:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Live plants and ammonia?

Someone told me, in my trials and tribualtions with getting my sons
aquarium going, that live plants produce ammonia as a by product (off
photosynthesis). Does anyone know is this true. I did not think
plants produced ammonia. Please let me know. Thanks, Ed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17398 From: Ed Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Thanks Karen. I have been working with this thing for about 7 weeks
now trying to get it. My ammonia is reading between 5 and 8 mg/l
but it has been neutralized. I am going to to another partial water
change tomorrow and keep trying to get the ammonia down some so the
cycle kicks itself off a bit easier. My Ph keeps fluctuating too
though between 6 and 7 so I am never sure if the high acidity has
killed bacteria or what is going on. There are only 3 zebra danios
in this 30 gallon aquarium at the moment and 5 live plants. So far
the fish seem fine, they are active and swimming the entire tank
side to side and throughout its depth so I think the water is ok,
just waiting for the ammonia to start changing and eliminating.
Just very frustrating. Thanks for the help. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Morganawolf1@... wrote:
>
> Maybe rotted plant matter can produce it but, I never heard of
plants
> themselves producing it.
> Anything that produces waste can get your cycle going. Getting a
small fish
> can do it, even food, you can even buy natural beneficial bacteria
to get it
> going. Remember, the cycle has to complete itself in order for the
balance to
> be attained. getting too many fish can trigger the ammonia spike,
but, it can
> also cause fish death. Some fish are hardy enough to withstand
the cycle,
> but, that's up to you.Small water changes can be done if the
ammonia level does
> get too high, but small amounts only.
> I am one of the many out there who was impatient and went through
the cycle
> pulling my hair out. I had a lot of fish and I could not do
anything to ease
> the cycle because it has to go through it to balance out.
> Even taking matter from an already established tank can do it as
well.
> remember, if you want to do the cycle with live fish, make sure
they are
> hardy.
>
> Karen
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17399 From: Ed Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
thanks once again for the information. I think we are getting it.
Woke up this am with the tank very cloudy and it has been clearing
throughout the day. I am hoping it is a bacteria bloom and it will
start to equalize but we will see. The ammonia has been neutralized
but is up between 5 and 8 mg/l. I used a bit of Amquel as you
suggested and will do a 20% water change tomorrow if there is no
change in the ammonia. Anyway, still going. Thanks, Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Well, if you are raising blue green algae, then they may have a
> point--"blue green algae (cyanobacteria) like Nostoc and Calothrix
can
> fix nitrogen yielding ammonia as a stable end product" (from
> http://bellnetweb.brc.tamus.edu/effects.htm).
>
> pH does affect ammonia toxicity. The daily photosynthesis of
plants can
> and will affect the pH level in a tank that has enough plants.
During
> the active period, photosynthesis will remove CO2 from the water
column,
> increasing pH, and at night, the plants will release CO2, since
> photosynthesis is not occurring, which will lower pH. Ad pH rises,
> ammonia becomes more toxic. You can read a short article about this
> process in ponds here: http://www.ca.uky.edu/wkrec/pH-Ammonia.htm
>
> This latter reason may have given rise to the idea that
photosynthesis
> causes ammonia. Indeed, it does not. It is merely a function of pH
that
> makes the ammonia seem to be more prevalent than it was at an
earlier
> measurement.
>
> FWIW, if you really want to get into it, there are a number of
books
> that have been written on aquatic photosynthesis that you may want
to
> find and peruse, should your interest be enough. I don't own one of
> them, but they are out there.
>
> Also, do keep in mind that nitrogen is necessary for good plant
growth
> and health.
>
> No one ever seriously claimed water chemistry was easy <g>.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Ed
> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 2:13 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Live plants and ammonia?
>
> Someone told me, in my trials and tribualtions with getting my
sons
> aquarium going, that live plants produce ammonia as a by product
(off
> photosynthesis). Does anyone know is this true. I did not think
> plants produced ammonia. Please let me know. Thanks, Ed
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17400 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
I am so new too all this. The other members know so much more than I do. I
feel like an idiot when I see them giving so much scientific advise. But, they
are really good and they know what they are doing. That's why I joined this
group so I can stop wandering in the dark with all this fish hobby buisness.
If my advice helped that's good. Stick with it. I found adding some stress
coat for the fishes slime coating a good thing. Stress can really wreak havoc
on any living thing.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17401 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/3/2006
Subject: Adding air bubbles
I have my 90 gallon that is 48 inches long, 20 inches deep, and 18 wide. I
posted my story earlier that I did a cleanout. I am trying to get the water
moving better. I have a Bio wheel at the left end, and I bought an air stone
that is 14 inches long today.
I placed it in the back on the other end. Only half of the stone is putting
out due to a weak pump which I intend to fix. I will try some of my others to
see if they have more input. In placing the stone, is that a good spot?
Should I keep such things in the back of the tank, or maybe in the middle end? I
am just trying to get the other end of this tank flowing. With all the debris
I cleaned, I was hoping that it would help.
Can someone please give me some input on this issue?


Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17402 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Ed after 7 weeks the ammonia should be 0, what chemical you have out in the
tanks until now ???, 5 plants is not enough to make the ph shift from 7 to
6 in the day. A 30 gal with only 3 small fish I'm very surprise the ammonia
get so high, even if you are overfeeding, ( are you ?) just give the fish a
very small ratio of food, the will not die, and it will help the cycle.
Actually PH 6 is not high acidity, it's what have save your fish, in low oh
the ammonia is transform in ammonium who is not toxic as the ammonia. But
fish don't like the ph shift. You have something who create this high level
of ammonia , search for it, did you place a piece of wood you collect in
the nature your self ? low acidity and high ammonia can be a wood who
decompose .

But first r4elax and just make a list of all the stuff you have introduce
since the aquarium is start .

Gerard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Ed
Envoyé : 3 juillet, 2006 23:37
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Live plants and ammonia?

Thanks Karen. I have been working with this thing for about 7 weeks
now trying to get it. My ammonia is reading between 5 and 8 mg/l
but it has been neutralized. I am going to to another partial water
change tomorrow and keep trying to get the ammonia down some so the
cycle kicks itself off a bit easier. My Ph keeps fluctuating too
though between 6 and 7 so I am never sure if the high acidity has
killed bacteria or what is going on. There are only 3 zebra danios
in this 30 gallon aquarium at the moment and 5 live plants. So far
the fish seem fine, they are active and swimming the entire tank
side to side and throughout its depth so I think the water is ok,
just waiting for the ammonia to start changing and eliminating.
Just very frustrating. Thanks for the help. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Morganawolf1@... wrote:
>
> Maybe rotted plant matter can produce it but, I never heard of
plants
> themselves producing it.
> Anything that produces waste can get your cycle going. Getting a
small fish
> can do it, even food, you can even buy natural beneficial bacteria
to get it
> going. Remember, the cycle has to complete itself in order for the
balance to
> be attained. getting too many fish can trigger the ammonia spike,
but, it can
> also cause fish death. Some fish are hardy enough to withstand
the cycle,
> but, that's up to you.Small water changes can be done if the
ammonia level does
> get too high, but small amounts only.
> I am one of the many out there who was impatient and went through
the cycle
> pulling my hair out. I had a lot of fish and I could not do
anything to ease
> the cycle because it has to go through it to balance out.
> Even taking matter from an already established tank can do it as
well.
> remember, if you want to do the cycle with live fish, make sure
they are
> hardy.
>
> Karen
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17403 From: micheal03us Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: white clouds
Does anyone know if heat will bother white clouds? I have one that
when the temp is 78 and above, he floats near the top of the water all
the time, doesn't eat much. His eyes seem to be huge and he gets very
sick looking. He's still a baby and not as big as the others, they
don't seem to mind the temp changes at all. The heat in the house
lately gets very hot and we try to keep the tank at it's normal temp
but it can be hard. When we get the temp back down to 76 and below,
he's fine, swims about middle of the tank and eats and seems active
and fine. Is it becuase he is smaller than the others that he minds
the heat or is there something wrong with him that I should keep an
eye on.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17404 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Adding air bubbles
Karen,

What type of filter are you using? For that size tank you should be
using a canister filter. The intake hose should be at one end of the
tank and the output should be at the other. That should give you enough
circulation as well as aeration. Too much aeration is really bad for
your live plants. It will drive off the carbon dioxide needed by the
plants for photosynthesis. The addition of air stones or wands to create
bubble streams should be viewed as more an artistic touch to the tank
than to perform any function. As such, you should lean toward a larger
bubble size rather than a finer bubble. Again, for the health of your
plants. The larger bubble is less disruptive to the gaseous balance you
are trying to maintain for the health of your plants. For really good
growth of plants, people add carbon dioxide to the tank through various
means.

Carbon dioxide plays a role in your pH as well. The more carbon dioxide,
the lower your pH. The less, then you have a higher pH. However, pH is
much more complex than just carbon dioxide, and a whole topic unto
itself.

Back to your circulation, however. As I mentioned above, you should be
using a canister filter for the size tank you have. The intake should be
at one end of the tank. For convenience, and to fit the design of your
cover, it will probably be in the back corner. The output, with your
biowheel, would be at the other end. The intake would pull water from
the lower region of its end of the tank, and the output would be
returning water to the top region of its end. This will create a general
circulation from one end of the tank to the other. Any waste that is in
suspension will flow with the water toward the other end.

The problem, it seems, that you wish to resolve is the waste that does
not stay in suspension, but ends up on the gravel of the tank. How to
handle this is a good question. The design of your aquascape has a
bearing on it, as does the type of waste. The idea would be to make it
as easy as possible to clean this waste as one can. Sloping your gravel
toward the front of the tank will help some. The placement of rockwork
and driftwood can help create areas where this waste will be hidden from
the casual viewer, and help to make it easy to clean with a siphon,
tongs, or a hand. If you are getting a lot of material from your plants,
you will have to take a closer look at how you are caring for your
plants. Perhaps you need to do a bit more pruning of dying leaves and
stems than you have been. Perhaps you need to know more about the
plant's needs to better take care of it to lessen the amount of material
shed. You may even need to replace some of your plants with others that
will do better than the ones you currently have.

Now, to your bubble wand dilemma. You will need a fairly powerful air
pump to drive the entire length of the wand as deep as your tank is. You
should be probably looking a something that may be considered as a
"professional" model, such as a Supreme DynaFlow. The problem with these
types of air pumps is that they can make significantly more noise than
the consumer models.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Adding air bubbles

I have my 90 gallon that is 48 inches long, 20 inches deep, and 18 wide.
I
posted my story earlier that I did a cleanout. I am trying to get the
water
moving better. I have a Bio wheel at the left end, and I bought an air
stone
that is 14 inches long today.
I placed it in the back on the other end. Only half of the stone is
putting
out due to a weak pump which I intend to fix. I will try some of my
others to
see if they have more input. In placing the stone, is that a good spot?
Should I keep such things in the back of the tank, or maybe in the
middle end? I
am just trying to get the other end of this tank flowing. With all the
debris
I cleaned, I was hoping that it would help.
Can someone please give me some input on this issue?


Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17405 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Adding air bubbles
Try aquascaping so that you can vacuum all debris every week when you do
your water change. For portions of the tank that are not planted, use a
Python or other gravel cleaner to clean the gravel right to the bottom of
the tank weekly. IMO this is more effective than keeping the water stirred
up so the filter will handle it.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Adding air bubbles



I have my 90 gallon that is 48 inches long, 20 inches deep, and 18 wide. I
posted my story earlier that I did a cleanout. I am trying to get the water
moving better. I have a Bio wheel at the left end, and I bought an air stone

that is 14 inches long today.
I placed it in the back on the other end. Only half of the stone is putting
out due to a weak pump which I intend to fix. I will try some of my others
to
see if they have more input. In placing the stone, is that a good spot?
Should I keep such things in the back of the tank, or maybe in the middle
end? I
am just trying to get the other end of this tank flowing. With all the
debris
I cleaned, I was hoping that it would help.
Can someone please give me some input on this issue?


Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17406 From: Jannine Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Betta breeding.
Ok, so I have my bettas in a 10 gallon tank with the female isolated.
I was wondering what I am looking for now. They keep flaring at each
other, is this good? First time doing this. Any help/suggestions
would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17407 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: white clouds
White Clouds are from mountain streams and therefore need a cooler
temperature and more oxygen than many of the "tropical" fish we keep.
They require a temperature in the lower 70's or upper 60's. The behavior
you are witnessing now is probably due to lack of oxygen in the water.
To help the situation, if you cannot cool down the water, is to add
aeration via an air stone or two to help bring the oxygen level in the
water up as much as is possible. As water warms, its capacity to hold
oxygen is diminished. Other factors also play a part in the amount of
dissolved oxygen in water, but I think you are primarily faced with a
temperature based problem here.

You have three options:

1. Cool the water. This will raise the amount of dissolved oxygen the
water can hold, and also reduce the metabolism of the fish.

2. Heavily aerate the tank. This will help saturate the water with
dissolved oxygen and other gases. Your fish may be able to have enough
oxygen to survive well, though he still needs to deal with the
discomfort of the higher temperatures and a fast metabolic rate.

3. Remove the fish to an environment more suited to its needs.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of micheal03us
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 8:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] white clouds

Does anyone know if heat will bother white clouds? I have one that
when the temp is 78 and above, he floats near the top of the water all
the time, doesn't eat much. His eyes seem to be huge and he gets very
sick looking. He's still a baby and not as big as the others, they
don't seem to mind the temp changes at all. The heat in the house
lately gets very hot and we try to keep the tank at it's normal temp
but it can be hard. When we get the temp back down to 76 and below,
he's fine, swims about middle of the tank and eats and seems active
and fine. Is it becuase he is smaller than the others that he minds
the heat or is there something wrong with him that I should keep an
eye on.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17408 From: Karen Millett Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: white clouds
I have the temp down today, I got it to stay in the low 70s and he is doing good. Are air stomes something you can get seperately or do they hook directly to the air filter that I currently have. I plan to make a trip to my pet store to get supplies within the next week.
Also we are almost done rennovations so the tank will be moved to a cooler place in the house which I hope helps them all. Thanks for the info. Karen.
>
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> Date: 2006/07/04 Tue AM 10:35:34 EST
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] white clouds
>
> White Clouds are from mountain streams and therefore need a cooler
> temperature and more oxygen than many of the "tropical" fish we keep.
> They require a temperature in the lower 70's or upper 60's. The behavior
> you are witnessing now is probably due to lack of oxygen in the water.
> To help the situation, if you cannot cool down the water, is to add
> aeration via an air stone or two to help bring the oxygen level in the
> water up as much as is possible. As water warms, its capacity to hold
> oxygen is diminished. Other factors also play a part in the amount of
> dissolved oxygen in water, but I think you are primarily faced with a
> temperature based problem here.
>
> You have three options:
>
> 1. Cool the water. This will raise the amount of dissolved oxygen the
> water can hold, and also reduce the metabolism of the fish.
>
> 2. Heavily aerate the tank. This will help saturate the water with
> dissolved oxygen and other gases. Your fish may be able to have enough
> oxygen to survive well, though he still needs to deal with the
> discomfort of the higher temperatures and a fast metabolic rate.
>
> 3. Remove the fish to an environment more suited to its needs.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of micheal03us
> Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 8:29 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] white clouds
>
> Does anyone know if heat will bother white clouds? I have one that
> when the temp is 78 and above, he floats near the top of the water all
> the time, doesn't eat much. His eyes seem to be huge and he gets very
> sick looking. He's still a baby and not as big as the others, they
> don't seem to mind the temp changes at all. The heat in the house
> lately gets very hot and we try to keep the tank at it's normal temp
> but it can be hard. When we get the temp back down to 76 and below,
> he's fine, swims about middle of the tank and eats and seems active
> and fine. Is it becuase he is smaller than the others that he minds
> the heat or is there something wrong with him that I should keep an
> eye on.
>
>
>
>

Adorabelle
http://svenslittlegirl.bravepages.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17409 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Look for striping on the female. It's difficult to spot on a light
bodied female, but if she is fat and egg ready and ready to mate, she
should show horizontal striping along her length. IF not, she should
show vertical striping. I generally just introduce the male and female
in a heavily planted tank so that the female can hide from the male
till she feels more secure. just keep an eye on them and see how they
react. Some bettas actually take to each other immediately and can be
left in the tank together permenantly. Some never click at all and the
male will kill the female. Some flirt around and after they have mated
must be seperated.

> Ok, so I have my bettas in a 10 gallon tank with the female isolated.
> I was wondering what I am looking for now. They keep flaring at each
> other, is this good? First time doing this. Any help/suggestions
> would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17410 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Cynthia, You have the striping patterns backwards, unless you're
thinking a little differently when you refer to "horizontal"
and "vertical. If the female Betta is not ready to spawn, she will
display horizontal (lengthwise) lines along the length of her sides.
If she is well conditioned and laden with eggs (ready to spawn), she
will display wide "V"-shaped verticle (up & down) bars along the
sides of her body. These "V"-shaped bars almost resemble the typical
pattern that everyone thinks of as fishbones (or "herringbone"), but
of course much wider. Additionally, she will show a large
white "button" at her vent.

Some breeders just use a glass divider in the tank and remove it when
both fish are ready, with the male having built a nest, and they are
both showing signs of wanting to be with each other. Other breeders
will float a 3/4 full quart or half-gallon jar in the tank and tip it
when they are both ready, allowing her freedom to the tank to spawn.
The other methods already pointed out can work as well provided the
male doesn't get too aggressive with the female before she's ready.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Look for striping on the female. It's difficult to spot on a light
> bodied female, but if she is fat and egg ready and ready to mate,
she
> should show horizontal striping along her length. IF not, she
should
> show vertical striping. I generally just introduce the male and
female
> in a heavily planted tank so that the female can hide from the male
> till she feels more secure. just keep an eye on them and see how
they
> react. Some bettas actually take to each other immediately and can
be
> left in the tank together permenantly. Some never click at all and
the
> male will kill the female. Some flirt around and after they have
mated
> must be seperated.
>
> > Ok, so I have my bettas in a 10 gallon tank with the female
isolated.
> > I was wondering what I am looking for now. They keep flaring at
each
> > other, is this good? First time doing this. Any help/suggestions
> > would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17411 From: Neener Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
She definitely has that button thing. Everything
seems to be going the way I have read. Just waiting
on the male to make a bubble nest. Thanks for all the
help.

--- Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
wrote:

> Cynthia, You have the striping patterns backwards,
> unless you're
> thinking a little differently when you refer to
> "horizontal"
> and "vertical. If the female Betta is not ready to
> spawn, she will
> display horizontal (lengthwise) lines along the
> length of her sides.
> If she is well conditioned and laden with eggs
> (ready to spawn), she
> will display wide "V"-shaped verticle (up & down)
> bars along the
> sides of her body. These "V"-shaped bars almost
> resemble the typical
> pattern that everyone thinks of as fishbones (or
> "herringbone"), but
> of course much wider. Additionally, she will show a
> large
> white "button" at her vent.
>
> Some breeders just use a glass divider in the tank
> and remove it when
> both fish are ready, with the male having built a
> nest, and they are
> both showing signs of wanting to be with each other.
> Other breeders
> will float a 3/4 full quart or half-gallon jar in
> the tank and tip it
> when they are both ready, allowing her freedom to
> the tank to spawn.
> The other methods already pointed out can work as
> well provided the
> male doesn't get too aggressive with the female
> before she's ready.
> Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia
> brennemann"
> <brennewoman@...> wrote:
> >
> > Look for striping on the female. It's difficult
> to spot on a light
> > bodied female, but if she is fat and egg ready and
> ready to mate,
> she
> > should show horizontal striping along her length.
> IF not, she
> should
> > show vertical striping. I generally just
> introduce the male and
> female
> > in a heavily planted tank so that the female can
> hide from the male
> > till she feels more secure. just keep an eye on
> them and see how
> they
> > react. Some bettas actually take to each other
> immediately and can
> be
> > left in the tank together permenantly. Some never
> click at all and
> the
> > male will kill the female. Some flirt around and
> after they have
> mated
> > must be seperated.
> >
> > > Ok, so I have my bettas in a 10 gallon tank with
> the female
> isolated.
> > > I was wondering what I am looking for now. They
> keep flaring at
> each
> > > other, is this good? First time doing this.
> Any help/suggestions
> > > would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>


NEENER


















__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17412 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: white clouds
Karen,

I'm not sure what you mean about hooking them to the air filter you got
already.

Since you already have the bubble wand, that should be sufficient, or
are we talking about another tank?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Karen Millett
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: [AquaticLife] white clouds

I have the temp down today, I got it to stay in the low 70s and he is
doing good. Are air stomes something you can get seperately or do they
hook directly to the air filter that I currently have. I plan to make a
trip to my pet store to get supplies within the next week.
Also we are almost done rennovations so the tank will be moved to a
cooler place in the house which I hope helps them all. Thanks for the
info. Karen.
>
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> Date: 2006/07/04 Tue AM 10:35:34 EST
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] white clouds
>
> White Clouds are from mountain streams and therefore need a cooler
> temperature and more oxygen than many of the "tropical" fish we keep.
> They require a temperature in the lower 70's or upper 60's. The
behavior
> you are witnessing now is probably due to lack of oxygen in the water.
> To help the situation, if you cannot cool down the water, is to add
> aeration via an air stone or two to help bring the oxygen level in the
> water up as much as is possible. As water warms, its capacity to hold
> oxygen is diminished. Other factors also play a part in the amount of
> dissolved oxygen in water, but I think you are primarily faced with a
> temperature based problem here.
>
> You have three options:
>
> 1. Cool the water. This will raise the amount of dissolved oxygen the
> water can hold, and also reduce the metabolism of the fish.
>
> 2. Heavily aerate the tank. This will help saturate the water with
> dissolved oxygen and other gases. Your fish may be able to have enough
> oxygen to survive well, though he still needs to deal with the
> discomfort of the higher temperatures and a fast metabolic rate.
>
> 3. Remove the fish to an environment more suited to its needs.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of micheal03us
> Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 8:29 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] white clouds
>
> Does anyone know if heat will bother white clouds? I have one that
> when the temp is 78 and above, he floats near the top of the water all

> the time, doesn't eat much. His eyes seem to be huge and he gets very
> sick looking. He's still a baby and not as big as the others, they
> don't seem to mind the temp changes at all. The heat in the house
> lately gets very hot and we try to keep the tank at it's normal temp
> but it can be hard. When we get the temp back down to 76 and below,
> he's fine, swims about middle of the tank and eats and seems active
> and fine. Is it becuase he is smaller than the others that he minds
> the heat or is there something wrong with him that I should keep an
> eye on.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17413 From: Ivan White (Prairie Spirit) Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Hornwort Floating Grass
HI Everyone,

I love to grow grass for the aquaiums and again I have some (way too much( floating hornwort which is very beautiful in the aquarium. Looks like a beautiful floating sea of green feathery grass.

If anyone is interested and would like to trade a half gallon bag full for a Trio (two females and one male) mollies that would be great. Any kind of mollies would do, I just happen to like them. I can also throw in a nice amazon sword plant as a little something extra for some nice mollies.

Any Takers, it would be a shame to throw it away as I have much too much of the grass in the aquaium. Seems my hownwort and sword plants do well for me, in fact it amazes me that they grow so fast.

Take care all,

Ivan
South Dakota
prairiespirit@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17414 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: New baby clown loach-how long float it?
Aloha

I just got my first new fish in over a year. I got rid
of my 29 gal. freshwater and 3 lg. fish and kept only
my lg. clown loach (3.5") and 2 plecostomus. I got a
10 gal temporarily until I can get a new 29 gal. I did
this 2 wks ago and was told not to get any new fish
for that period of time.

Today I got my new baby clown loach. How long should I
float him? Also, how long b/4 I can add other sm.
fish, and any suggestions for sm. fish compatible
w/clowns and plecostomus?

Cinde, Hawaii

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17415 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: New baby clown loach-how long float it?/Correct temp?
Aloha again

I forgot to ask what temp I should keep the clowns,
and should I lower the temp for the new baby?

Cinde

Aloha

I just got my first new fish in over a year. I got rid
of my 29 gal. freshwater and 3 lg. fish and kept only
my lg. clown loach (3.5") and 2 plecostomus. I got a
10 gal temporarily until I can get a new 29 gal. I did
this 2 wks ago and was told not to get any new fish
for that period of time.

Today I got my new baby clown loach. How long should I
float him? Also, how long b/4 I can add other sm.
fish, and any suggestions for sm. fish compatible
w/clowns and plecostomus?

Cinde, Hawaii

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17416 From: saeid4040 Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Call for Papers: Special Issue of IJEES on "Stream Ecology and Low
Special issue of "International Journal of Ecological Economics and
Statistics" (IJEES) will be on "Stream Ecology and Low Flow".
Original research papers or reviews are invited in the following and
related areas:


-River Economic
-River Quality Modeling
-Pollution Minimization
-Ecological Education
-Sustainable Development Modeling
-Case Studies
-Arid Zone River Ecology
-Human & Stream Ecology
-Ecological Management Modeling
-Stream Physical, Chemical & Biological Treatment Processes
-River Statistics and Classification
-water Reuse
-Ecological Problems and Health Risk Assessment
-Hydrological Analysis of Low Flows


Important Dates

Deadline for paper submission:

30 September 2006
Paper review:

30 November 2006
Final papers submission: 15

January 2007

For more information:
http://ceser.res.in/ijees/cont/self.html
Regards

Saeid Eslamian
Guest Editor-in-Chief of IJEES
Visiting Professor
Princeton University
New Jersey
USA
eslamian@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17417 From: Cory Walter Date: 7/4/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
OK....now getting to the bubble nest. I have 2 males in a divided 10 gallon tank. The divider is frosted......one of the males keeps making the bubble nest on top of the water. What does that mean? There aren't any females present.....

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17418 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
You're right. :o I was bass akwards yesterday...comes from trying to
cook dinner, postpone fireworks till after dark, and carry on an
intelligent conversation at the same time. :P


> Cynthia, You have the striping patterns backwards, unless you're
> thinking a little differently when you refer to "horizontal"
> and "vertical. If the female Betta is not ready to spawn, she will
> display horizontal (lengthwise) lines along the length of her
sides.
> If she is well conditioned and laden with eggs (ready to spawn),
she
> will display wide "V"-shaped verticle (up & down) bars along the
> sides of her body. These "V"-shaped bars almost resemble the
typical
> pattern that everyone thinks of as fishbones (or "herringbone"),
but
> of course much wider. Additionally, she will show a large
> white "button" at her vent.
>
> Some breeders just use a glass divider in the tank and remove it
when
> both fish are ready, with the male having built a nest, and they
are
> both showing signs of wanting to be with each other. Other
breeders
> will float a 3/4 full quart or half-gallon jar in the tank and tip
it
> when they are both ready, allowing her freedom to the tank to
spawn.
> The other methods already pointed out can work as well provided the
> male doesn't get too aggressive with the female before she's
ready.
> Ray
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17419 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Means he's froggy and wants to mate. They don't HAVE to have a female
present to want to mate, it just helps to get them thinking about it.
That's how we started, infact, with my daughters pet male betta making
bubble nests constantly, and them slipping a female in the tank while
DH and I were gone

> OK....now getting to the bubble nest. I have 2 males in a divided 10
gallon tank. The divider is frosted......one of the males keeps making
the bubble nest on top of the water. What does that mean? There
aren't any females present.....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17420 From: Ed Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Thanks Gerard, nothing odd has been added to this tank. I really
believe it is just the quality of the water here in Chicago that is
so bad. The chemicals used have been Ammo Lock and more recently
Amquel. Never more than one application of Ammo Lock every two days
but only for a 6 day period, (so three days of application) and one
application of Amquel. based on information I have gotten here, I
too feel it is something in the tank. There are the five live
plants, and one piece of sculpture that appears to be a stone type
resin material but it was produced specifically for use in an
aquarium so I am not sure if that is the culprit. Otherwise there
is nothing in the tank. I realize that a ph of 6 is ok, but it has
gone down to 5 in about week 2 and also in week 4 or so and it is my
understanding that that level of ph will kill whatever beneficial
bacteria you are growing.. The other chemicals are Stress coat and
Stress zyme (One applicaltion of stess zyme) four of stress coat
(after water changes.) If you have any other thoughts please let me
know. I did a 1/4 water change yesterday with reverse osmosis
filtered water and a new bio filter bag, new bag of Ammo chips and
new undergravel cartridge filters. Fish are still alive and we are
not overfeeding. My 12 year old son, whose tank it is, does the
feeding. He overfed the first time but not since then. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Ed after 7 weeks the ammonia should be 0, what chemical you have
out in the
> tanks until now ???, 5 plants is not enough to make the ph shift
from 7 to
> 6 in the day. A 30 gal with only 3 small fish I'm very surprise
the ammonia
> get so high, even if you are overfeeding, ( are you ?) just give
the fish a
> very small ratio of food, the will not die, and it will help the
cycle.
> Actually PH 6 is not high acidity, it's what have save your fish,
in low oh
> the ammonia is transform in ammonium who is not toxic as the
ammonia. But
> fish don't like the ph shift. You have something who create this
high level
> of ammonia , search for it, did you place a piece of wood you
collect in
> the nature your self ? low acidity and high ammonia can be a
wood who
> decompose .
>
> But first r4elax and just make a list of all the stuff you have
introduce
> since the aquarium is start .
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Ed
> Envoyé : 3 juillet, 2006 23:37
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Live plants and ammonia?
>
> Thanks Karen. I have been working with this thing for about 7
weeks
> now trying to get it. My ammonia is reading between 5 and 8 mg/l
> but it has been neutralized. I am going to to another partial
water
> change tomorrow and keep trying to get the ammonia down some so
the
> cycle kicks itself off a bit easier. My Ph keeps fluctuating too
> though between 6 and 7 so I am never sure if the high acidity has
> killed bacteria or what is going on. There are only 3 zebra
danios
> in this 30 gallon aquarium at the moment and 5 live plants. So
far
> the fish seem fine, they are active and swimming the entire tank
> side to side and throughout its depth so I think the water is ok,
> just waiting for the ammonia to start changing and eliminating.
> Just very frustrating. Thanks for the help. Ed
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Morganawolf1@ wrote:
> >
> > Maybe rotted plant matter can produce it but, I never heard of
> plants
> > themselves producing it.
> > Anything that produces waste can get your cycle going. Getting a
> small fish
> > can do it, even food, you can even buy natural beneficial
bacteria
> to get it
> > going. Remember, the cycle has to complete itself in order for
the
> balance to
> > be attained. getting too many fish can trigger the ammonia
spike,
> but, it can
> > also cause fish death. Some fish are hardy enough to withstand
> the cycle,
> > but, that's up to you.Small water changes can be done if the
> ammonia level does
> > get too high, but small amounts only.
> > I am one of the many out there who was impatient and went
through
> the cycle
> > pulling my hair out. I had a lot of fish and I could not do
> anything to ease
> > the cycle because it has to go through it to balance out.
> > Even taking matter from an already established tank can do it
as
> well.
> > remember, if you want to do the cycle with live fish, make sure
> they are
> > hardy.
> >
> > Karen
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17421 From: Cory Walter Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Thanks.......think I'll get a female and some baby jars.......how soon should I take them out of the big tank?

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17422 From: Cory Walter Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
and how many do they have?

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17423 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Live plants and ammonia?
Hello ED, the problem is may be with the ammo lock, since it transform the
ammonia, it remove the food to the bacteria who will suppose to do that job,
so a colony can not be establish, a ph of 5 is 100 time stronger than 7.
if the ph drop so easy it's because you don't have a good KH ( so you
should check the KH of the tap water with a kit, it have to be over 70 to
have a good buffer capacity who will keep your tank at around ph 7 , in my
well I have very soft water, so I use a KH booster to rise it . since I
don’t have chlorine or ammonia in my water I don’t use those ammo lock or
other stuff, but if the product transform the chemical in water in acid, it
may be the cause of your problem,

Keep us update

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Ed
Envoyé : 5 juillet, 2006 10:08
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Live plants and ammonia?

Thanks Gerard, nothing odd has been added to this tank. I really
believe it is just the quality of the water here in Chicago that is
so bad. The chemicals used have been Ammo Lock and more recently
Amquel. Never more than one application of Ammo Lock every two days
but only for a 6 day period, (so three days of application) and one
application of Amquel. based on information I have gotten here, I
too feel it is something in the tank. There are the five live
plants, and one piece of sculpture that appears to be a stone type
resin material but it was produced specifically for use in an
aquarium so I am not sure if that is the culprit. Otherwise there
is nothing in the tank. I realize that a ph of 6 is ok, but it has
gone down to 5 in about week 2 and also in week 4 or so and it is my
understanding that that level of ph will kill whatever beneficial
bacteria you are growing.. The other chemicals are Stress coat and
Stress zyme (One applicaltion of stess zyme) four of stress coat
(after water changes.) If you have any other thoughts please let me
know. I did a 1/4 water change yesterday with reverse osmosis
filtered water and a new bio filter bag, new bag of Ammo chips and
new undergravel cartridge filters. Fish are still alive and we are
not overfeeding. My 12 year old son, whose tank it is, does the
feeding. He overfed the first time but not since then. Ed

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Ed after 7 weeks the ammonia should be 0, what chemical you have
out in the
> tanks until now ???, 5 plants is not enough to make the ph shift
from 7 to
> 6 in the day. A 30 gal with only 3 small fish I'm very surprise
the ammonia
> get so high, even if you are overfeeding, ( are you ?) just give
the fish a
> very small ratio of food, the will not die, and it will help the
cycle.
> Actually PH 6 is not high acidity, it's what have save your fish,
in low oh
> the ammonia is transform in ammonium who is not toxic as the
ammonia. But
> fish don't like the ph shift. You have something who create this
high level
> of ammonia , search for it, did you place a piece of wood you
collect in
> the nature your self ? low acidity and high ammonia can be a
wood who
> decompose .
>
> But first r4elax and just make a list of all the stuff you have
introduce
> since the aquarium is start .
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Ed
> Envoyé : 3 juillet, 2006 23:37
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Live plants and ammonia?
>
> Thanks Karen. I have been working with this thing for about 7
weeks
> now trying to get it. My ammonia is reading between 5 and 8 mg/l
> but it has been neutralized. I am going to to another partial
water
> change tomorrow and keep trying to get the ammonia down some so
the
> cycle kicks itself off a bit easier. My Ph keeps fluctuating too
> though between 6 and 7 so I am never sure if the high acidity has
> killed bacteria or what is going on. There are only 3 zebra
danios
> in this 30 gallon aquarium at the moment and 5 live plants. So
far
> the fish seem fine, they are active and swimming the entire tank
> side to side and throughout its depth so I think the water is ok,
> just waiting for the ammonia to start changing and eliminating.
> Just very frustrating. Thanks for the help. Ed
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Morganawolf1@ wrote:
> >
> > Maybe rotted plant matter can produce it but, I never heard of
> plants
> > themselves producing it.
> > Anything that produces waste can get your cycle going. Getting a
> small fish
> > can do it, even food, you can even buy natural beneficial
bacteria
> to get it
> > going. Remember, the cycle has to complete itself in order for
the
> balance to
> > be attained. getting too many fish can trigger the ammonia
spike,
> but, it can
> > also cause fish death. Some fish are hardy enough to withstand
> the cycle,
> > but, that's up to you.Small water changes can be done if the
> ammonia level does
> > get too high, but small amounts only.
> > I am one of the many out there who was impatient and went
through
> the cycle
> > pulling my hair out. I had a lot of fish and I could not do
> anything to ease
> > the cycle because it has to go through it to balance out.
> > Even taking matter from an already established tank can do it
as
> well.
> > remember, if you want to do the cycle with live fish, make sure
> they are
> > hardy.
> >
> > Karen
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17424 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
I would get a small tank setup instead of baby jars. When I breed
bettas I put the female in the breeding tank (heavily planted) to let
her get a feel for where she can hide in case the male is too
aggressive. I condition her with bloodworms and brine shrimp, and then
when she looks fat and happy, I put the male in and watch things. IF
they seem to get along okay, I leave it till they spawn. IF they start
fighting immediately, I seperate them. Once they have spawned, i
remove the female to the community tank, and leave the male in until
the babies are mature. He will eat the malformed and weak babies, and
the eggs that do not hatch, but the mouthing he does of the babies will
help them fight bacterial infections. Using a regular tank that can
have a filter running on low also helps the water not get nasty

> Thanks.......think I'll get a female and some baby jars.......how
soon should I take them out of the big tank?
>
> rates.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17425 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
Hundreds. Which is another reason I leave the male in the tank. With
him present, there isn't the infighting as soon as they start to color
up, and I don't have to have shelves full of baby bettas in jars. I
can leave them all peaceably in the tank until I take them to sell.

> and how many do they have?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17426 From: Cory Walter Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: Betta breeding.
This is sounding like more work than I have time for right now......maybe I'll just let him keep blowing his bubbles.......I am going to save all of your info, however, for future use. I think they are just gorgeous......Cory

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17427 From: Aaron Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Breeding Ghost Shrimp?
Hi All,

Has Anybody here ever tried to Breed/Raise Ghost/Glass Shrimp?

My Puffer has developed a $44.00/Month habit that I can no longer
continue to afford to enable.

I have a seperate 20 gallon tank set up for the few snails it didn't
eat so they can multiply at will to be eaten later. I aslo was using
this as a Quarantine and holding tank for the shrimp.

The "feeder" Shrimp cost $.29 each here now days. I remember as
recently as 2 years ago getting them for $.10 each or $1.00/dozen.

There was 1 female with eggs in the last batch, but I didn't realize
she had gotten netted and put into the big tank until the Puffer had
her locked in its radar. Mmm, caviar, dessert and Dinner all in 1.
Oopps, oh well, I will have to be more carefull from now on.

I heard something about shrimp "larva"? Does that mean the eggs do
not hatch out little shrimp but something else instead that
eventually turn into shrimp? How long does that process take?

I have only had experience with Livebearers and 1 Black Neon Tertra
fry. Besides the snails who take care of themselves, I have not
raised or breed anything other than Brine Shrimp for live food.

If anybody has any experience breeding the Ghost Shrimp or knows a
good website, Please let me know.

Also, is there a less expensive place to buy them? Online maybe?
How much do the shrimp cost where you are?

Any Help would be appreciated.

It is a "Green Spotted Puffer" about 2 inches long by about 1.5
inches around that I got at the WalMart here in Livermore CA about a
Month ago.

What else besides Snails and Shrimp could I feed it? It doesn't eat
the other fish food at all. Just Hunts snails and shrimp all day.

thanks,
Aaron
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17428 From: DJ Matera Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: gourami help/puffer help
Out of my 7 gouramis, 5 of them are swimming back and forth in small
strokes, so they never really get anywhere except an inch back and
forth. What is going on. How do I stop it. I have been putting in clout
for a week and I think it killed my pictus cats. I stopped the clout
and put in the carbon. And one more thing. I had 3 figure 8 puffers in
my freshwater tank, and I just moved them into a brackish tank( 1 tblsp
for 2 gallons) and thwe ph was like .3 higher than the tank it was in,
but temp and ammonia the same,(79 and 0). Will the puffers be ok?

thanks
DJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17429 From: yan_ederson13 Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: gourami help/puffer help
I have to take the opportunity and thank all for accepting me as a
member of your most interesting and useful group that I have in my
list.Sharing experiences with you all that have an aquarium in your
house is something extraordinary pleasant.
Even if I don`t have any.....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17430 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: gourami help/puffer help
I'm curious, why do you think clout killed your pictus cats? I ask
because I used clout and my perfectly healthy pictus died an awful death
during the treatment.
Sorry about the loss. Hopefully we can put our heads together and
prevent others from doing the same if in fact the clout was the cause.

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of DJ Matera
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 3:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer help



Out of my 7 gouramis, 5 of them are swimming back and forth in small
strokes, so they never really get anywhere except an inch back and
forth. What is going on. How do I stop it. I have been putting in clout
for a week and I think it killed my pictus cats. I stopped the clout
and put in the carbon. And one more thing. I had 3 figure 8 puffers in
my freshwater tank, and I just moved them into a brackish tank( 1 tblsp
for 2 gallons) and thwe ph was like .3 higher than the tank it was in,
but temp and ammonia the same,(79 and 0). Will the puffers be ok?

thanks
DJ







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17431 From: rhayneslcsw Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: gourami help/puffer help
When I used cout on my tank, seems I remember seeing on the warning
lable not to use with algae eaters. Are they in the same family?

Regina
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I'm curious, why do you think clout killed your pictus cats? I ask
> because I used clout and my perfectly healthy pictus died an awful
death
> during the treatment.
> Sorry about the loss. Hopefully we can put our heads together and
> prevent others from doing the same if in fact the clout was the
cause.
>
> ~Leslie
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of DJ Matera
> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 3:48 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer help
>
>
>
> Out of my 7 gouramis, 5 of them are swimming back and forth in
small
> strokes, so they never really get anywhere except an inch back and
> forth. What is going on. How do I stop it. I have been putting in
clout
> for a week and I think it killed my pictus cats. I stopped the
clout
> and put in the carbon. And one more thing. I had 3 figure 8
puffers in
> my freshwater tank, and I just moved them into a brackish tank( 1
tblsp
> for 2 gallons) and thwe ph was like .3 higher than the tank it was
in,
> but temp and ammonia the same,(79 and 0). Will the puffers be ok?
>
> thanks
> DJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17432 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/5/2006
Subject: Re: gourami help/puffer help
I don't think they are.

My bottle says, " Not for fish intended for human consumption. Not
suitable for use in aquariums containing live rock and invertebrates.
Use cautiously with marine Sharks and Lionfish."
=( I'd hate to think I caused his death. He had red, raw blotchy spots
all over as if something had eaten away at his skin. It had to hurt.
Poor thing.
~L


Cabot Garage Sale: <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/

Little Rock Garage Sale: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LRgarageSale/

Zainy Zebra Children's Consignment! <http://www.zainyzebra.com/>
www.ZainyZebra.com
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of rhayneslcsw
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 6:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: gourami help/puffer help



When I used cout on my tank, seems I remember seeing on the warning
lable not to use with algae eaters. Are they in the same family?

Regina
--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I'm curious, why do you think clout killed your pictus cats? I ask
> because I used clout and my perfectly healthy pictus died an awful
death
> during the treatment.
> Sorry about the loss. Hopefully we can put our heads together and
> prevent others from doing the same if in fact the clout was the
cause.
>
> ~Leslie
>
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of DJ Matera
> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 3:48 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer help
>
>
>
> Out of my 7 gouramis, 5 of them are swimming back and forth in
small
> strokes, so they never really get anywhere except an inch back and
> forth. What is going on. How do I stop it. I have been putting in
clout
> for a week and I think it killed my pictus cats. I stopped the
clout
> and put in the carbon. And one more thing. I had 3 figure 8
puffers in
> my freshwater tank, and I just moved them into a brackish tank( 1
tblsp
> for 2 gallons) and thwe ph was like .3 higher than the tank it was
in,
> but temp and ammonia the same,(79 and 0). Will the puffers be ok?
>
> thanks
> DJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17433 From: blackbimmer1972 Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: Disease Prevention
Hi folks, I've a 44 gal tank in which I just had a female swordtail
succomb to some sort of disease. Over the past 3-4 days, her skin
turned dull, she became inactive and isolated herself from everyone
else, and during the end stages she'd developed a white coating on top
of her body and two white-yellow streaks on her tail fin, as well as
what looked like a gold-colored lesion on her face just below her eye.
Does that sound like velvet disease? She expired just this morning,
and everyone else looks and acts just fine. Are there some good
preventive measures I can take right now, such as a water change or
adding salt, raising temp, etc.? I change their water regularly (15%
per week), maintain good temperature in the tank (75 deg), and my
chemistry and water quality appear fine according to daily litmus
testing. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks all. - CS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17434 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: shipping snails
I'm going to send some captive bred snails to a friend, and I was
wondering if you could give me some tips on the proper way to ship
them.
Emily
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17435 From: dylanwinter2001 Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: rookie question on shrimps
I have kept a few goldfish in the kitchen for many years

today I went into an aquarium place and they had a tank with a few
shrimps in - they were several colours and they looked like tiny
lobsters - but very active

are they hard to keep, and what species are bets to go for
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17436 From: Rebecca Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: African Clawed Frogs
Hi, I have been fascinated my frogs my whole life and my parents are
now finally letting me get my first. It is going to be an albino
african clawed frog. Has anyone here every owned one? If so can you
tell me a little about them? Are they hard to care for? The guy at the
pet store told me to get about a 1 gallon tank but ive been reading
that they require 10! I'm planning on getting atleast 2 of these frogs
and at the most 3. Thank you.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17437 From: Aaron Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: Re: African Clawed Frogs
Hi Rebecca,

here is a link I found at Google by entering "African Clawed Frogs"
in the search field

http://members.aol.com/sirchin/afc.htm

it says they get 10 inches in size and will not fit in a 1 or 10
gallon tank.

I'd start with the Dwarf African Clawed Frogs -

http://www.gsas.org/Articles/1998/clawed-frogs.html

that way you can get several

hope that helps,
Aaron



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rebecca" <yankees.girl@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi, I have been fascinated my frogs my whole life and my parents
are
> now finally letting me get my first. It is going to be an albino
> african clawed frog. Has anyone here every owned one? If so can you
> tell me a little about them? Are they hard to care for? The guy at
the
> pet store told me to get about a 1 gallon tank but ive been reading
> that they require 10! I'm planning on getting atleast 2 of these
frogs
> and at the most 3. Thank you.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17438 From: Aaron Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: Re: African Clawed Frogs
Hi Rebecca,

I would consider the DWARF type frogs if you are going to get more
than 1 in such a small environment. I saw some "Floating" frogs at a
LFS last week, they stay at the top with eyes just above the
surface, I think they were black and white if I remember correctly.

Hope that helps, lets us know what you do.
Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rebecca" <yankees.girl@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi, I have been fascinated my frogs my whole life and my parents
are
> now finally letting me get my first. It is going to be an albino
> african clawed frog. Has anyone here every owned one? If so can you
> tell me a little about them? Are they hard to care for? The guy at
the
> pet store told me to get about a 1 gallon tank but ive been reading
> that they require 10! I'm planning on getting atleast 2 of these
frogs
> and at the most 3. Thank you.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17439 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: Oscars(Vertical swimming)HELP!!!!!
I have just introduced a Red Oscar into my 90 gallon a few days ago.He is
almost the length of my Dempsey (about 4 inches).
As we speak, one of my Bala Sharks is having problems Staying horizontal. he
is swimming upside down Basically Displaying incredibly bad shocking
behavior. Swimming upside down (belly up) having trouble with equalibrium.
My Red oscar was displaying issues as well but, not as acute.
HELP!!! HELP!!!
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17440 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/6/2006
Subject: Re: Oscars(Vertical swimming)HELP!!!!!(Read cause)
_http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/FAQ.htm#equillibrium_
(http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/FAQ.htm#equillibrium)
This link just gave me the info I needed but, I am unable to treat this. I
am very upset. I don't want my fish to die. My Oscar, and my 1 Bala shark are
the only 2 displaying this behavior.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17441 From: Evita Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: Re: African Clawed Frogs
Rebecca, I had one years ago and just for one I would reccomend at least a 20 gal. long. For three even larger. They get pretty big real fast. Also the are escape artists. If yoy get one you need a really good top with no holes to squeeze out of. Evita

Rebecca <yankees.girl@...> wrote: Hi, I have been fascinated my frogs my whole life and my parents are
now finally letting me get my first. It is going to be an albino
african clawed frog. Has anyone here every owned one? If so can you
tell me a little about them? Are they hard to care for? The guy at the
pet store told me to get about a 1 gallon tank but ive been reading
that they require 10! I'm planning on getting atleast 2 of these frogs
and at the most 3. Thank you.






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17442 From: Evita Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: Re: African Clawed Frogs
Rebecca, I had one years ago and just for one I would reccomend at least a 20 gal. long. For three even larger. They get pretty big real fast. Also the are escape artists. If you get one you need a really good top with no holes to squeeze out of. Evita

Rebecca <yankees.girl@...> wrote: Hi, I have been fascinated my frogs my whole life and my parents are
now finally letting me get my first. It is going to be an albino
african clawed frog. Has anyone here every owned one? If so can you
tell me a little about them? Are they hard to care for? The guy at the
pet store told me to get about a 1 gallon tank but ive been reading
that they require 10! I'm planning on getting atleast 2 of these frogs
and at the most 3. Thank you.






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17443 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: Re: Oscars(Vertical swimming)HELP!!!!!
Sorry about posting the urgent email last night. I did not stay up all
night. So, I don't know if another episode happened. My Oscar is still swimming
vertically(head up) though. I had read that sometimes it can be caused by
constipation and putting green peas in the tank (a natural laxative) can help
relieve that. Last night my Oscar did look "stuck" and this morning he has a
large stool coming out. I will watch him though. My sharks are acting really
skittishly but, Balas act that way. But, to me they don't act like this. last
night, I watched the largest one race back and forth a few times and then he
bumped into my seaweed clip. That stopped him as he hung there for a few minutes
in a daze. I am not seeing any erratic swimming as of now. I did contact
Fosters&Smith and they said they would have someone get back to me ASAP.
I did not sleep well or much for that matter. My 1 year old did contribute
to that as well. Nothing like a screaming baby who does not want to sleep and a
Bala shark swimming upside down in circles to rattle someone's nerves. Could
you sleep well after that?

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17444 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: Hi all
I've decided to update one of my tanks to a 50-gallon breeder. like the width for my bicher. Problem I'm having is I can't seem to find a roght iron stand locally to fit it. the tank is easy enough to find, but everyone has pine stands and one place actually has a stainless steel stand (way too much money). Anyone know of anyplace that sells a rought (Sp?) iron stand for a 50-gallon breeder that will ship it?

Also, since I also want to make this a planted tank, what tank mates would be ok with him AND a planted tank. Thanks in advance!

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17445 From: momofholly2002 Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: Question about when to add fish
I set up a 40 gal. tank and have been checking the the ph, nitrates,
ammonia, co2, etc. every day. All are fine. I added 4 daino 5 days
ago and everything in the water is fine. When is it safe to add
goldfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17446 From: supamii Date: 7/7/2006
Subject: cooling fan
was able to put together 4 computer fans running on an AC adapter.
the fan's inner workings like the circuit board is not exactly
protected from the elements - i'm primarily worried about over-night
condensation

does anyone have experience using computer fans to help with
evaporation for cooling purposes? i need help coming up with an
installation scheme and effective placement strategies for the fans

its summertime now for me and the tank is HOT - help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17447 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: Question about when to add fish
Goldfish and tropicals should not be mixed. Their needs are different,
and must be accommodated. You will need to remove the danios or choose
other tropicals for your tank.

When you add more fish, expect a spike in your nitrogen numbers, the
more fish, the higher the spike, since it seems you cycled the tank with
the fish rather than doing a fishless cycle, so the numbers of bacteria
present to consume the nitrogen products is small, and needs to be
grown. Goldfish are likely to give a higher spike, since they are
"dirty" fish.

Best thing is to decide whether you want a tropical tank or a goldfish
tank. Bear in mind, your tank is good for one full grown goldfish,
though you could add more than one if they are still small. One full
grown goldfish needs about 30 gallons of water to be successfully kept.
You could keep two in a 55, 3 in a ninety, and so on.

Many tropicals are smaller fish, though there are those that grow as
large or larger than goldfish, so you can keep many more of the
tropicals in your tank than goldfish, presuming you go with the smaller
fish.

In any case, add the fish slowly. New fish should be quarantined in
another tank before being added to your main display tank for at least
three weeks to ensure they are free of disease and parasites that could
adversely affect your display.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of momofholly2002
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 8:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about when to add fish

I set up a 40 gal. tank and have been checking the the ph, nitrates,
ammonia, co2, etc. every day. All are fine. I added 4 daino 5 days
ago and everything in the water is fine. When is it safe to add
goldfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17448 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Equalibrium(verticle swimming)Swim Bladder disease
OK folks. After reading tons of information, and speaking to specialists
from Foster & Smith, I find out that the equalibrium problem was due to bladder
infection. Infection causes problems staying upright, erratic swimming.

1) _Swim-bladder disorder / disease_ (http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/FAQ.htm)
caused by viral or bacterial infection, constipation (mainly fancy goldfish) or
other organ disease.
This is a common problem whereby fish lose their equilibrium and are unable
to maintain their position. This can result in the fish swimming awkwardly,
laying upside-down either on the bottom or top of the water, or unable to
maintain a horizontal position in the water. This is often attributed to
swim-bladder problems and indeed this is the most common cause of loss of
equilibrium. The swim-bladder is an air-filled sac laying just under the backbone at
the top of the abdominal cavity. By inflating / deflating the swim-bladder,
the fish can adjust its position in the water and maintain neutral buoyancy.
Another issue that causes this is constipation.
I am witholding food for 2 days, and adding 18 tablespoons of salt to my 90
gallon. Right now, they are fine. Hopefully this will clear it up. Something
looking so complicated to cure, hopefully cured easily. I will keep my
fingers crossed.
Sorry for my panic folks. Hope in sharing my information, people have
learned a little.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17449 From: Pat Jellison Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: African Clawed Frogs
Hi Rebecca,

The disparity you're hearing in tank sizes may be because there are
two types of African Clawed Frogs -- the large ones (genus Xenopus),
which are social and can get to be up to 8 or 10 inches long
(including legs) = BIG, and the Dwarf African Clawed Frogs (genus
Hymenochirus) which stay small, maxing out at about 1.5 inches. They
are both great escape artists, but are very different in their
feeding behavior and other traits; Xenopus will hunt and eat anything
they can catch, while Hymenochirus is much more difficult to feed,
and will easily starve if food is not abundant and easy (they only
strike at things that wiggle or move right in front of their little
snouts).

The big guys definitely have to have big tanks; a 55-gallon tank
would eventually be needed for 2 or 3 Xenopus. The Dwarf frogs really
need a shallow, small tank with floating veggies that they can wedge
into with their snouts in the air. I keep my dwarfs in a 5-gallon
tank. Best deal for you is to Google them both, study the pictures
and make sure you know what you're buying -- the pet store guys may
or may not know the difference. Both kind are great pets, and can
live a LONG time (my oldest dwarf is almost 15 years old) when well-
cared for, so make sure you know what you're getting into, and enjoy!

By the way, the males of both kinds can vocalize at night, so you
might want to consider that as you decide where to place their tank :-)

Cheers,
Pat J


Rebecca <yankees.girl@...> wrote: Hi, I have been fascinated
my frogs my whole life and my parents are
now finally letting me get my first. It is going to be an albino
african clawed frog. Has anyone here every owned one? If so can you
tell me a little about them? Are they hard to care for? The guy at
the pet store told me to get about a 1 gallon tank but ive been
reading that they require 10! I'm planning on getting atleast 2 of
these frogs and at the most 3. Thank you.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17450 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: adding salt to freshwater
Is it a healthy thing to keep a small level of salt added to a freshwater
tank? Does'nt it keep bacteria and parasites from growing?

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17451 From: harry perry Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: A question.
How did we come to use the word "fry" to denote baby fish?

Harry.


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17452 From: harry perry Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: adding salt to freshwater/Karen
That's my understanding. Just be careful some species are salt intolerant.

Harry

Morganawolf1@... wrote: Is it a healthy thing to keep a small level of salt added to a freshwater
tank? Does'nt it keep bacteria and parasites from growing?

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17453 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: cooling fan
Computer fans have been used frequently as a cooling method for lamps,
where they are mounted into the hood or light fixture. I've not heard of
any method to protect them from the water. I believe that any
electronics needed was mounted away from the installation.

Use this in your browser to do a Google search. I did see some articles
on fans and aquaria that may be of interest to you.

http://www.google.com/search?q=fan+%2Baquarium


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of supamii
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 12:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] cooling fan

was able to put together 4 computer fans running on an AC adapter.
the fan's inner workings like the circuit board is not exactly
protected from the elements - i'm primarily worried about over-night
condensation

does anyone have experience using computer fans to help with
evaporation for cooling purposes? i need help coming up with an
installation scheme and effective placement strategies for the fans

its summertime now for me and the tank is HOT - help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17454 From: tourmaline54 Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: 55 gallon stand needed
I am need of a stand for a 55 gallon aquarium and was wondering if
anyone can help me out with this.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17455 From: Evita Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Do you know if you live in an area that has a local Free-cycle? Sometimes you can find stuff like that or you can ask if you are a member. Evita

tourmaline54 <tourmaline54@...> wrote: I am need of a stand for a 55 gallon aquarium and was wondering if
anyone can help me out with this.






---------------------------------
Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17456 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
You can use a variety of things for an aquarium stand. We have an old
iron typewriter stand from the 1920's under one of our aquariums, and
an old dry sink under another.

> I am need of a stand for a 55 gallon aquarium and was wondering if
> anyone can help me out with this.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17457 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Tank pH & meds
Would meds make the ph rise? My tank which was recently treated w/
furan and clout had an outstanding ph of over 8. !!!
My tap ph is 7.2. What would make the pH rise like this? And for
keeping angels & discus, how do I lower it? (I have 3 driftwoods and am
considering peat moss in the filters if I can find some in small
quantity.)
Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17458 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/8/2006
Subject: Re: cooling fan
Why not just mount a computer power supply outside of your tank?

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of supamii
Sent: Friday, 07 July 2006 23:15
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] cooling fan



was able to put together 4 computer fans running on an AC adapter.
the fan's inner workings like the circuit board is not exactly
protected from the elements - i'm primarily worried about over-night
condensation

does anyone have experience using computer fans to help with
evaporation for cooling purposes? i need help coming up with an
installation scheme and effective placement strategies for the fans

its summertime now for me and the tank is HOT - help!






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17459 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Cinder blocks and two by fours are also an inexpensive way to get a tank up
off the floor. If you don't like the look of it get some fabric that you
like and staple it to the wood or tuck it under the tank before you fill the
tank. All of three of these items are pretty inexpensive and easy to setup.

In a message dated 7/8/2006 3:59:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
brennewoman@... writes:



You can use a variety of things for an aquarium stand. We have an old
iron typewriter stand from the 1920's under one of our aquariums, and
an old dry sink under another.

> I am need of a stand for a 55 gallon aquarium and was wondering if
> anyone can help me out with this.
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17460 From: Evita Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
I saw someone that had a 75 gal done that way with a cloth draped over it. They used the underneath as a place to store all their aquarium stuff well-hiden. Keep in mind that cloth does get dusty depending where you live. So choose a good color. I have a table with my birds on it done that way. I have to wash the cloth every now and then. Evita

Deenerz@... wrote:
Cinder blocks and two by fours are also an inexpensive way to get a tank up
off the floor. If you don't like the look of it get some fabric that you
like and staple it to the wood or tuck it under the tank before you fill the
tank. All of three of these items are pretty inexpensive and easy to setup.

In a message dated 7/8/2006 3:59:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
brennewoman@... writes:

You can use a variety of things for an aquarium stand. We have an old
iron typewriter stand from the 1920's under one of our aquariums, and
an old dry sink under another.

> I am need of a stand for a 55 gallon aquarium and was wondering if
> anyone can help me out with this.
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17461 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
Good idea!

In a message dated 7/9/2006 3:41:01 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
evitabug@... writes:

Keep in mind that cloth does get dusty depending where you live. So choose a
good color. I have a table with my birds on it done that way. I have to wash
the cloth every now and then. Evita





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17462 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: Tank pH & meds
Don't know about furan and clout, but I do know that if you have a
fairly high ph water, and you just top off your aquarium rather than
actually doing water changes, it can increase the ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17463 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
If you are crafty...or know someone that is, put some elastic around the top
of the skirt so it can be fastened around the bottom of the tank. This
would make it so you can remove it for cleaning. You could also get plywood
to put in-between the bricks to make shelving for storage. Another item
that would work...and look better than cinder blocks...get some railroad
ties and cut them up to make the legs. Put a piece of plywood on the bottom
and somewhere in-between 2 of the ties and you have instant shelving. To
make sure this all stays together, you could drill a couple of holes through
the timbers and get some long bolts to fasten them together. I would
recommend something similar if you are using cinder blocks as well.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Evita
Sent: Sunday, 09 July 2006 05:40
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 55 gallon stand needed



I saw someone that had a 75 gal done that way with a cloth draped over it.
They used the underneath as a place to store all their aquarium stuff
well-hiden. Keep in mind that cloth does get dusty depending where you live.
So choose a good color. I have a table with my birds on it done that way. I
have to wash the cloth every now and then. Evita

Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com wrote:
Cinder blocks and two by fours are also an inexpensive way to get a tank up
off the floor. If you don't like the look of it get some fabric that you
like and staple it to the wood or tuck it under the tank before you fill the

tank. All of three of these items are pretty inexpensive and easy to setup.

In a message dated 7/8/2006 3:59:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
brennewoman@ <mailto:brennewoman%40hotmail.com> hotmail.com writes:

You can use a variety of things for an aquarium stand. We have an old
iron typewriter stand from the 1920's under one of our aquariums, and
an old dry sink under another.

> I am need of a stand for a 55 gallon aquarium and was wondering if
> anyone can help me out with this.
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17464 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Fish Disease and Cure [WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer he
The pictus is a scaleless species. You cannot use Clout with scaleless
species, among others. Generally, when a drug or other additive to your
aquarium warns against use with certain species or types of fish, it
means that, at the very least, it will harm them and, at the worst,
well, you already know that.

Before you use any medication or additive, you should be certain that it
will fix or cure what you want fixed or cured, and that it will not harm
any of the fish in your tank. Reading the label helps, but checking on
the manufacturer's web site will always give you a fuller explanation.
For instance, you can find more information about Clout at
http://www.aq-products.com/Catalog/DIRECTIONS/CLOUT.htm from which I
garnered this information.

When you would like to treat a fish for some illness, fungus, or
parasite, you should first determine exactly what the problem is with
the fish. People here can help, though I've noticed a number of times
that people jump the gun without a full description of what is happening
in the tank and with the fish. The web is a good resource, but you do
need to be careful enough not to be misled as there is a bit of
information that is, shall we say, not up to snuff. Books are always a
good resource.

One good book for this is _The Science of Fish Health Management: Master
Volume_ (Aquariology Series) (Hardcover)
by John B. Gratzek. However, it appears to be out of print. This book
was published by Tetra Press (the same Tetra that brings you food and
other aquarium goodies). The master volume is a number of books that
were published separately all rolled into one volume. If you can find
this book, or any of the separate volumes (all are marked with the
Aquariology title) pick it up. These books will help you with their
information.

There is another book, also out of print, that is very good, but I
cannot put my hands on it right now to give you complete information,
that was written for vets. This means it is a bit hard going for those
not scientifically inclined. It is a slim volume, but each page gives
you tons of information.

While looking for this volume, which is actually a part of a publication
series for vets, I ran across this listing, and many of these volumes
would be helpful as well:

* Amlacher, Erwin. 1970. _Textbook of Fish Diseases_. Neptune, NJ:
T.F.H. Pub.

_Annual Review of Fish Diseases. 1990--_. Annual. New York: Pergamon
Press. ($200.00)

Brown, Lydia, ed. 1993. _Aquaculture for Veterinarians: Fish Husbandry
and Medicine_. New York: Elsevier. ($110.00, $56.00 pap)

Bullock, G.L. 1971. _Bacterial Diseases of Fishes_. Neptune, NJ: T.F.H.
Pub.

* Dulin, Mark P. 1976. _Diseases of Marine Aquarium Fishes_. Neptune,
NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

Elkan, E. 1974. _Color Atlas of the Diseases of Fishes, Amphibians, and
Reptiles_. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

Ellis, Anthony E., ed. 1985. _Fish and Shellfish Pathology_. San Diego:
Academic Press.

Ferguson, Hugh. W. 1989. _Systemic Pathology of Fish_. Ames, IA: Iowa
State University. ($64.95)

Gratzek, John B. and Janice R. Matthews, eds. 1992. _The Science of Fish
Health Management_. Morris Plains, NJ: Tetra Press.

Gratzek, John B., et. al. 1992. _Fish Diseases and Water Chemistry_.
Morris Plains, NJ: Tetra Press. ($19.95)

Hoar, W.S. and D.J. Randall, eds. 1969--. _Fish Physiology_. 13 volumes
so far. San Diego: Academic Press. (Price varies with volume.)

Lom, Jiri, and Iva Dykova. 1992. _Protozoan Parasites of Fishes_. New
York: Elsevier.

* Post, G.W. 1987. _The Textbook of Fish Health_. Neptune, NJ:
T.F.H.Pub. ($29.95)

Roberts, Ronald, ed. 1989. _Fish Pathology. 2nd ed._ Philadelphia:
Saunders. ($185.00)

* Sindermann, Carl J., ed. 1989. _Principal Diseases of Marine Fish and
Shellfish. 2nd ed._ 2 vols. San Diego: Academic Press. (vol 1 $125.00,
vol 2 $116.00)

_____ and D.V. Lightner, eds. 1988. _Disease Diagnosis and Control in
North American Marine Aquaculture. 2nd ed._ New York: Elsevier.
($102.75)

* Stoskopf, Michael K., ed. 1993. _Fish Medicine_. Philadelphia, PA:
W.B. Saunders. ($99.95)

Thoesen, John C., ed. 1994. _Suggested Procedures for the Detection and
Identification of Certain Finfish and Shellfish Pathogens. 4th ed._
Bethesda, MD: Fish Health Section, American Fisheries Society.

* Wedemeyer, C.G., et. al. 1970-1976. _Diseases of Fishes. Book 5:
Environmental Stress and Fish Diseases_. Neptune, NJ: T.H.F. Pub.

Adey, Walter H. and Karen Loveland. 1991. _Dynamic Aquaria:
Building Living Ecosystems_. San Diego: Academic Press. ($49.95)

Atema, Jelle, et.al., eds. 1987. _Sensory Biology of Aquatic
Animals_. New York: Springer-Verlag. ($239.00)

* Bannister, Keith Edward and Andrew Campbell, eds. 1985. _The
Encyclopedia of Aquatic Life_. New York: Facts on File, 1985. ($45.00)

Bascom, Willard. 1980. Waves and Beaches: _The Dynamics of the
Ocean Surface. Rev. ed._ New York: Doubleday.

* Bidwell, Joseph P. and Stephen Spotte. 1985. _Artificial
Seawaters; Formulas and Methods_. Boston: Jones & Bartlett. ($100
casebound)

* Bower, Carol E. 1983. _The Basic Marine Aquarium: A Simplified
Modern Approach to the Care of Saltwater Fishes_. Springfield, IL:
Charles C. Thomas. ($29.75 pap)

Coulombe, Deborah A. 1984. _The Seaside Naturalist: A Guide to
Nature at the Seashore_. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, 1984.

Dakin, Nick. 1993. _The Macmillan Book of the Marine Aquarium: A
Definitive Reference to More than 300 Marine Fish and Invertebrate
Species and How to Establish and Maintain a Reef Aquarium_. New York:
Macmillan. ($75.00)

Emmens, Cliff W. 1989. _The Marine Aquarium in Theory and
Practice. Rev. ed._ Neptune, NJ: T.F.H. Pub. ($19.95)

Friese, U. Erich. 1973. _Marine Invertebrates in the Home
Aquarium_. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

* Hawkins, A.D., ed. 1981. _Aquarium Systems_. New York: Academic
Press.

Horsman, Paul V. 1986. _Seawatch--The Seafarer's Guide to Marine
Life_. New York: Facts on File.

Lobban, Christopher S. and Michael J. Wynne, eds. 1982. _The
Biology of Seaweeds_. Berkeley: University of California Press.
($100.00)

Lobban, Christopher S., et. al. 1985. _The Physiological Ecology
of Seaweeds_. New York: Cambridge University Press.

* Nybakken, James W. 1989. _Marine Biology: An Ecological
Approach. 2nd ed._ New York: HarperCollins College. ($43.00)

O'Connell, R.F. 1971. _The Freshwater Aquarium_. St. Petersburg,
FL: The Great Outdoors Pub. Co.

Presscott, Gerald W. 1969. _How to Know the Aquatic Plants_.
Dubuque, IA: Brown.

_____. 1978. _How to Know Freshwater Algae. 3rd ed._ Dubuque, IA:
Brown.

Rataj, Karel and Thomas J. Horeman. 1977. _Aquarium Plants: Their
Identification, Cultivation and Ecology_. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

Seaman, William and Lucian M. Sprague, eds. 1991. _Artificial
Habitats for Marine and Freshwater Fisheries_. San Diego: Academic
Press. ($49.95)

* Spotte, Stephen. 1979. _Fish and Invertebrate Culture: Water
Management in Closed Systems. 2nd ed._ New York: Wiley. ($37.95)

_____. 1979. _Seawater Aquariums: The Captive Environment_. New
York: Wiley. ($72.95)

_____. 1991. _Captive Seawater Fishes: Science and Technology_.
New York: Wiley. ($97.95)

_____. 1993. _Marine Aquarium Keeping: The Science, Animals and
Art. 2nd ed._ New York: Wiley. ($19.95 pap)

Sterba, Gunther, ed. 1983. _The Aquarium Encyclopedia_. Cambridge,
MA: MIT Press. ($45.00)

Strickland, J.D.H. 1977. _A Practical Handbook of Seawater
Analysis. 2nd ed._ Ottawa: Fisheries Research Board of Canada.

Sumich, James L., et.al. 1992. _An Introduction to the Biology of
Marine Life. 5th ed._ Dubuque, IA: Brown.

Wilkens, Peter. 1973. _The Saltwater Aquarium for Tropical Marine
Invertebrates. 2nd ed._ Suppertal-Elberfeld (Germany): Engelbert Pfriem.


This listing comes from
http://www.sil.si.edu/SILPublications/zoo-aquarium/ixg-xiii.htm, which
is a site of the Smithsonian Institution, and it is from a listing for
zoo professionals. The * before a listing means that the book should be
in every zoo's library.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 7:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer help

I'm curious, why do you think clout killed your pictus cats? I ask
because I used clout and my perfectly healthy pictus died an awful death
during the treatment.
Sorry about the loss. Hopefully we can put our heads together and
prevent others from doing the same if in fact the clout was the cause.

~Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17465 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Tap water purifier
I'm looking into getting a tap water purifier to help maintain a lower
pH for angelfish & discus. The only one I have seen recommended only
produces 10 gallons of purified water per hour (by Aquarium
Pharmaceuticals) & I'd like to find one larger than that.
Does anyone have anything better I might consider? OR would that be
enough of a "topper" to maintain/stabalize less of a buffer zone to keep
the pH low in a 46 gallon?

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17466 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Disease and Cure [WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffe
Hello Steeve for your book " Science of Fish Health Management: Master
Volume you can check at abebook http://www.abebooks.com/ I buy one few
month ago. You have a nice list of book, I recognize many I already got, I
will check latter to see which one can be interesting to add.

Gerard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 9 juillet, 2006 13:58
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Fish Disease and Cure [WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer
help]

The pictus is a scaleless species. You cannot use Clout with scaleless
species, among others. Generally, when a drug or other additive to your
aquarium warns against use with certain species or types of fish, it
means that, at the very least, it will harm them and, at the worst,
well, you already know that.

Before you use any medication or additive, you should be certain that it
will fix or cure what you want fixed or cured, and that it will not harm
any of the fish in your tank. Reading the label helps, but checking on
the manufacturer's web site will always give you a fuller explanation.
For instance, you can find more information about Clout at
http://www.aq-products.com/Catalog/DIRECTIONS/CLOUT.htm from which I
garnered this information.

When you would like to treat a fish for some illness, fungus, or
parasite, you should first determine exactly what the problem is with
the fish. People here can help, though I've noticed a number of times
that people jump the gun without a full description of what is happening
in the tank and with the fish. The web is a good resource, but you do
need to be careful enough not to be misled as there is a bit of
information that is, shall we say, not up to snuff. Books are always a
good resource.

One good book for this is _The Science of Fish Health Management: Master
Volume_ (Aquariology Series) (Hardcover)
by John B. Gratzek. However, it appears to be out of print. This book
was published by Tetra Press (the same Tetra that brings you food and
other aquarium goodies). The master volume is a number of books that
were published separately all rolled into one volume. If you can find
this book, or any of the separate volumes (all are marked with the
Aquariology title) pick it up. These books will help you with their
information.

There is another book, also out of print, that is very good, but I
cannot put my hands on it right now to give you complete information,
that was written for vets. This means it is a bit hard going for those
not scientifically inclined. It is a slim volume, but each page gives
you tons of information.

While looking for this volume, which is actually a part of a publication
series for vets, I ran across this listing, and many of these volumes
would be helpful as well:

* Amlacher, Erwin. 1970. _Textbook of Fish Diseases_. Neptune, NJ:
T.F.H. Pub.

_Annual Review of Fish Diseases. 1990--_. Annual. New York: Pergamon
Press. ($200.00)

Brown, Lydia, ed. 1993. _Aquaculture for Veterinarians: Fish Husbandry
and Medicine_. New York: Elsevier. ($110.00, $56.00 pap)

Bullock, G.L. 1971. _Bacterial Diseases of Fishes_. Neptune, NJ: T.F.H.
Pub.

* Dulin, Mark P. 1976. _Diseases of Marine Aquarium Fishes_. Neptune,
NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

Elkan, E. 1974. _Color Atlas of the Diseases of Fishes, Amphibians, and
Reptiles_. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

Ellis, Anthony E., ed. 1985. _Fish and Shellfish Pathology_. San Diego:
Academic Press.

Ferguson, Hugh. W. 1989. _Systemic Pathology of Fish_. Ames, IA: Iowa
State University. ($64.95)

Gratzek, John B. and Janice R. Matthews, eds. 1992. _The Science of Fish
Health Management_. Morris Plains, NJ: Tetra Press.

Gratzek, John B., et. al. 1992. _Fish Diseases and Water Chemistry_.
Morris Plains, NJ: Tetra Press. ($19.95)

Hoar, W.S. and D.J. Randall, eds. 1969--. _Fish Physiology_. 13 volumes
so far. San Diego: Academic Press. (Price varies with volume.)

Lom, Jiri, and Iva Dykova. 1992. _Protozoan Parasites of Fishes_. New
York: Elsevier.

* Post, G.W. 1987. _The Textbook of Fish Health_. Neptune, NJ:
T.F.H.Pub. ($29.95)

Roberts, Ronald, ed. 1989. _Fish Pathology. 2nd ed._ Philadelphia:
Saunders. ($185.00)

* Sindermann, Carl J., ed. 1989. _Principal Diseases of Marine Fish and
Shellfish. 2nd ed._ 2 vols. San Diego: Academic Press. (vol 1 $125.00,
vol 2 $116.00)

_____ and D.V. Lightner, eds. 1988. _Disease Diagnosis and Control in
North American Marine Aquaculture. 2nd ed._ New York: Elsevier.
($102.75)

* Stoskopf, Michael K., ed. 1993. _Fish Medicine_. Philadelphia, PA:
W.B. Saunders. ($99.95)

Thoesen, John C., ed. 1994. _Suggested Procedures for the Detection and
Identification of Certain Finfish and Shellfish Pathogens. 4th ed._
Bethesda, MD: Fish Health Section, American Fisheries Society.

* Wedemeyer, C.G., et. al. 1970-1976. _Diseases of Fishes. Book 5:
Environmental Stress and Fish Diseases_. Neptune, NJ: T.H.F. Pub.

Adey, Walter H. and Karen Loveland. 1991. _Dynamic Aquaria:
Building Living Ecosystems_. San Diego: Academic Press. ($49.95)

Atema, Jelle, et.al., eds. 1987. _Sensory Biology of Aquatic
Animals_. New York: Springer-Verlag. ($239.00)

* Bannister, Keith Edward and Andrew Campbell, eds. 1985. _The
Encyclopedia of Aquatic Life_. New York: Facts on File, 1985. ($45.00)

Bascom, Willard. 1980. Waves and Beaches: _The Dynamics of the
Ocean Surface. Rev. ed._ New York: Doubleday.

* Bidwell, Joseph P. and Stephen Spotte. 1985. _Artificial
Seawaters; Formulas and Methods_. Boston: Jones & Bartlett. ($100
casebound)

* Bower, Carol E. 1983. _The Basic Marine Aquarium: A Simplified
Modern Approach to the Care of Saltwater Fishes_. Springfield, IL:
Charles C. Thomas. ($29.75 pap)

Coulombe, Deborah A. 1984. _The Seaside Naturalist: A Guide to
Nature at the Seashore_. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, 1984.

Dakin, Nick. 1993. _The Macmillan Book of the Marine Aquarium: A
Definitive Reference to More than 300 Marine Fish and Invertebrate
Species and How to Establish and Maintain a Reef Aquarium_. New York:
Macmillan. ($75.00)

Emmens, Cliff W. 1989. _The Marine Aquarium in Theory and
Practice. Rev. ed._ Neptune, NJ: T.F.H. Pub. ($19.95)

Friese, U. Erich. 1973. _Marine Invertebrates in the Home
Aquarium_. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

* Hawkins, A.D., ed. 1981. _Aquarium Systems_. New York: Academic
Press.

Horsman, Paul V. 1986. _Seawatch--The Seafarer's Guide to Marine
Life_. New York: Facts on File.

Lobban, Christopher S. and Michael J. Wynne, eds. 1982. _The
Biology of Seaweeds_. Berkeley: University of California Press.
($100.00)

Lobban, Christopher S., et. al. 1985. _The Physiological Ecology
of Seaweeds_. New York: Cambridge University Press.

* Nybakken, James W. 1989. _Marine Biology: An Ecological
Approach. 2nd ed._ New York: HarperCollins College. ($43.00)

O'Connell, R.F. 1971. _The Freshwater Aquarium_. St. Petersburg,
FL: The Great Outdoors Pub. Co.

Presscott, Gerald W. 1969. _How to Know the Aquatic Plants_.
Dubuque, IA: Brown.

_____. 1978. _How to Know Freshwater Algae. 3rd ed._ Dubuque, IA:
Brown.

Rataj, Karel and Thomas J. Horeman. 1977. _Aquarium Plants: Their
Identification, Cultivation and Ecology_. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

Seaman, William and Lucian M. Sprague, eds. 1991. _Artificial
Habitats for Marine and Freshwater Fisheries_. San Diego: Academic
Press. ($49.95)

* Spotte, Stephen. 1979. _Fish and Invertebrate Culture: Water
Management in Closed Systems. 2nd ed._ New York: Wiley. ($37.95)

_____. 1979. _Seawater Aquariums: The Captive Environment_. New
York: Wiley. ($72.95)

_____. 1991. _Captive Seawater Fishes: Science and Technology_.
New York: Wiley. ($97.95)

_____. 1993. _Marine Aquarium Keeping: The Science, Animals and
Art. 2nd ed._ New York: Wiley. ($19.95 pap)

Sterba, Gunther, ed. 1983. _The Aquarium Encyclopedia_. Cambridge,
MA: MIT Press. ($45.00)

Strickland, J.D.H. 1977. _A Practical Handbook of Seawater
Analysis. 2nd ed._ Ottawa: Fisheries Research Board of Canada.

Sumich, James L., et.al. 1992. _An Introduction to the Biology of
Marine Life. 5th ed._ Dubuque, IA: Brown.

Wilkens, Peter. 1973. _The Saltwater Aquarium for Tropical Marine
Invertebrates. 2nd ed._ Suppertal-Elberfeld (Germany): Engelbert Pfriem.


This listing comes from
http://www.sil.si.edu/SILPublications/zoo-aquarium/ixg-xiii.htm, which
is a site of the Smithsonian Institution, and it is from a listing for
zoo professionals. The * before a listing means that the book should be
in every zoo's library.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 7:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer help

I'm curious, why do you think clout killed your pictus cats? I ask
because I used clout and my perfectly healthy pictus died an awful death
during the treatment.
Sorry about the loss. Hopefully we can put our heads together and
prevent others from doing the same if in fact the clout was the cause.

~Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17467 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water purifier
Just go to a good plumber shop they have good RO unit .



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 9 juillet, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Tap water purifier

I'm looking into getting a tap water purifier to help maintain a lower
pH for angelfish & discus. The only one I have seen recommended only
produces 10 gallons of purified water per hour (by Aquarium
Pharmaceuticals) & I'd like to find one larger than that.
Does anyone have anything better I might consider? OR would that be
enough of a "topper" to maintain/stabalize less of a buffer zone to keep
the pH low in a 46 gallon?

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17468 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer help]
Steve,
Thank you so much for that. It just sickens me that I caused his death
and made him so miserable!
The bottle didn't say anything about not using it on anything scaleless
and unless this past post had not mentioned his pictus and clout, I
never would have thought anything of it. Gosh that makes me so MAD at
myself!
I'm not one to do something blindly so I did research the clout and my
tank occupants, nothing I found mentioned it.
Thank you again for the references. I will surely be on the lookout for
the first ones mentioned.

Leslie


Cabot Garage Sale: <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/

Little Rock Garage Sale: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LRgarageSale/

Zainy Zebra Children's Consignment! <http://www.zainyzebra.com/>
www.ZainyZebra.com
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 12:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Fish Disease and Cure [WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami
help/puffer help]



The pictus is a scaleless species. You cannot use Clout with scaleless
species, among others. Generally, when a drug or other additive to your
aquarium warns against use with certain species or types of fish, it
means that, at the very least, it will harm them and, at the worst,
well, you already know that.

Before you use any medication or additive, you should be certain that it
will fix or cure what you want fixed or cured, and that it will not harm
any of the fish in your tank. Reading the label helps, but checking on
the manufacturer's web site will always give you a fuller explanation.
For instance, you can find more information about Clout at
http://www.aq- <http://www.aq-products.com/Catalog/DIRECTIONS/CLOUT.htm>
products.com/Catalog/DIRECTIONS/CLOUT.htm from which I
garnered this information.

When you would like to treat a fish for some illness, fungus, or
parasite, you should first determine exactly what the problem is with
the fish. People here can help, though I've noticed a number of times
that people jump the gun without a full description of what is happening
in the tank and with the fish. The web is a good resource, but you do
need to be careful enough not to be misled as there is a bit of
information that is, shall we say, not up to snuff. Books are always a
good resource.

One good book for this is _The Science of Fish Health Management: Master
Volume_ (Aquariology Series) (Hardcover)
by John B. Gratzek. However, it appears to be out of print. This book
was published by Tetra Press (the same Tetra that brings you food and
other aquarium goodies). The master volume is a number of books that
were published separately all rolled into one volume. If you can find
this book, or any of the separate volumes (all are marked with the
Aquariology title) pick it up. These books will help you with their
information.

There is another book, also out of print, that is very good, but I
cannot put my hands on it right now to give you complete information,
that was written for vets. This means it is a bit hard going for those
not scientifically inclined. It is a slim volume, but each page gives
you tons of information.

While looking for this volume, which is actually a part of a publication
series for vets, I ran across this listing, and many of these volumes
would be helpful as well:

* Amlacher, Erwin. 1970. _Textbook of Fish Diseases_. Neptune, NJ:
T.F.H. Pub.

_Annual Review of Fish Diseases. 1990--_. Annual. New York: Pergamon
Press. ($200.00)

Brown, Lydia, ed. 1993. _Aquaculture for Veterinarians: Fish Husbandry
and Medicine_. New York: Elsevier. ($110.00, $56.00 pap)

Bullock, G.L. 1971. _Bacterial Diseases of Fishes_. Neptune, NJ: T.F.H.
Pub.

* Dulin, Mark P. 1976. _Diseases of Marine Aquarium Fishes_. Neptune,
NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

Elkan, E. 1974. _Color Atlas of the Diseases of Fishes, Amphibians, and
Reptiles_. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

Ellis, Anthony E., ed. 1985. _Fish and Shellfish Pathology_. San Diego:
Academic Press.

Ferguson, Hugh. W. 1989. _Systemic Pathology of Fish_. Ames, IA: Iowa
State University. ($64.95)

Gratzek, John B. and Janice R. Matthews, eds. 1992. _The Science of Fish
Health Management_. Morris Plains, NJ: Tetra Press.

Gratzek, John B., et. al. 1992. _Fish Diseases and Water Chemistry_.
Morris Plains, NJ: Tetra Press. ($19.95)

Hoar, W.S. and D.J. Randall, eds. 1969--. _Fish Physiology_. 13 volumes
so far. San Diego: Academic Press. (Price varies with volume.)

Lom, Jiri, and Iva Dykova. 1992. _Protozoan Parasites of Fishes_. New
York: Elsevier.

* Post, G.W. 1987. _The Textbook of Fish Health_. Neptune, NJ:
T.F.H.Pub. ($29.95)

Roberts, Ronald, ed. 1989. _Fish Pathology. 2nd ed._ Philadelphia:
Saunders. ($185.00)

* Sindermann, Carl J., ed. 1989. _Principal Diseases of Marine Fish and
Shellfish. 2nd ed._ 2 vols. San Diego: Academic Press. (vol 1 $125.00,
vol 2 $116.00)

_____ and D.V. Lightner, eds. 1988. _Disease Diagnosis and Control in
North American Marine Aquaculture. 2nd ed._ New York: Elsevier.
($102.75)

* Stoskopf, Michael K., ed. 1993. _Fish Medicine_. Philadelphia, PA:
W.B. Saunders. ($99.95)

Thoesen, John C., ed. 1994. _Suggested Procedures for the Detection and
Identification of Certain Finfish and Shellfish Pathogens. 4th ed._
Bethesda, MD: Fish Health Section, American Fisheries Society.

* Wedemeyer, C.G., et. al. 1970-1976. _Diseases of Fishes. Book 5:
Environmental Stress and Fish Diseases_. Neptune, NJ: T.H.F. Pub.

Adey, Walter H. and Karen Loveland. 1991. _Dynamic Aquaria:
Building Living Ecosystems_. San Diego: Academic Press. ($49.95)

Atema, Jelle, et.al., eds. 1987. _Sensory Biology of Aquatic
Animals_. New York: Springer-Verlag. ($239.00)

* Bannister, Keith Edward and Andrew Campbell, eds. 1985. _The
Encyclopedia of Aquatic Life_. New York: Facts on File, 1985. ($45.00)

Bascom, Willard. 1980. Waves and Beaches: _The Dynamics of the
Ocean Surface. Rev. ed._ New York: Doubleday.

* Bidwell, Joseph P. and Stephen Spotte. 1985. _Artificial
Seawaters; Formulas and Methods_. Boston: Jones & Bartlett. ($100
casebound)

* Bower, Carol E. 1983. _The Basic Marine Aquarium: A Simplified
Modern Approach to the Care of Saltwater Fishes_. Springfield, IL:
Charles C. Thomas. ($29.75 pap)

Coulombe, Deborah A. 1984. _The Seaside Naturalist: A Guide to
Nature at the Seashore_. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, 1984.

Dakin, Nick. 1993. _The Macmillan Book of the Marine Aquarium: A
Definitive Reference to More than 300 Marine Fish and Invertebrate
Species and How to Establish and Maintain a Reef Aquarium_. New York:
Macmillan. ($75.00)

Emmens, Cliff W. 1989. _The Marine Aquarium in Theory and
Practice. Rev. ed._ Neptune, NJ: T.F.H. Pub. ($19.95)

Friese, U. Erich. 1973. _Marine Invertebrates in the Home
Aquarium_. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

* Hawkins, A.D., ed. 1981. _Aquarium Systems_. New York: Academic
Press.

Horsman, Paul V. 1986. _Seawatch--The Seafarer's Guide to Marine
Life_. New York: Facts on File.

Lobban, Christopher S. and Michael J. Wynne, eds. 1982. _The
Biology of Seaweeds_. Berkeley: University of California Press.
($100.00)

Lobban, Christopher S., et. al. 1985. _The Physiological Ecology
of Seaweeds_. New York: Cambridge University Press.

* Nybakken, James W. 1989. _Marine Biology: An Ecological
Approach. 2nd ed._ New York: HarperCollins College. ($43.00)

O'Connell, R.F. 1971. _The Freshwater Aquarium_. St. Petersburg,
FL: The Great Outdoors Pub. Co.

Presscott, Gerald W. 1969. _How to Know the Aquatic Plants_.
Dubuque, IA: Brown.

_____. 1978. _How to Know Freshwater Algae. 3rd ed._ Dubuque, IA:
Brown.

Rataj, Karel and Thomas J. Horeman. 1977. _Aquarium Plants: Their
Identification, Cultivation and Ecology_. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H. Pub.

Seaman, William and Lucian M. Sprague, eds. 1991. _Artificial
Habitats for Marine and Freshwater Fisheries_. San Diego: Academic
Press. ($49.95)

* Spotte, Stephen. 1979. _Fish and Invertebrate Culture: Water
Management in Closed Systems. 2nd ed._ New York: Wiley. ($37.95)

_____. 1979. _Seawater Aquariums: The Captive Environment_. New
York: Wiley. ($72.95)

_____. 1991. _Captive Seawater Fishes: Science and Technology_.
New York: Wiley. ($97.95)

_____. 1993. _Marine Aquarium Keeping: The Science, Animals and
Art. 2nd ed._ New York: Wiley. ($19.95 pap)

Sterba, Gunther, ed. 1983. _The Aquarium Encyclopedia_. Cambridge,
MA: MIT Press. ($45.00)

Strickland, J.D.H. 1977. _A Practical Handbook of Seawater
Analysis. 2nd ed._ Ottawa: Fisheries Research Board of Canada.

Sumich, James L., et.al. 1992. _An Introduction to the Biology of
Marine Life. 5th ed._ Dubuque, IA: Brown.

Wilkens, Peter. 1973. _The Saltwater Aquarium for Tropical Marine
Invertebrates. 2nd ed._ Suppertal-Elberfeld (Germany): Engelbert Pfriem.

This listing comes from
http://www.sil.
<http://www.sil.si.edu/SILPublications/zoo-aquarium/ixg-xiii.htm,>
si.edu/SILPublications/zoo-aquarium/ixg-xiii.htm, which
is a site of the Smithsonian Institution, and it is from a listing for
zoo professionals. The * before a listing means that the book should be
in every zoo's library.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 7:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer help

I'm curious, why do you think clout killed your pictus cats? I ask
because I used clout and my perfectly healthy pictus died an awful death
during the treatment.
Sorry about the loss. Hopefully we can put our heads together and
prevent others from doing the same if in fact the clout was the cause.

~Leslie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17469 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: Fish Disease and Cure [WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffe
When looking for out of print books, there are many places to look. My first stop is always Finley Aquatic Books. You can e-mail at
info-query@... the web site is http://finleyaquaticbooks.com and also lists a FAX number. There are no listings of his inventory there, though. The Finley is Lee Finley.

Jim Forshey's site, http://www.seahorses.com does have a listing of books available, but it can be hard slogging through the titles to find what you want. The e-mail for inquiries is abs@.... While Finley Aquatic Books is on the east coast, Jim's Aquatic Book Shop is on the west coast.

From Indiana, we have Mike Schadle's The Fish Factory. I don't know if there is a web site, since I usually just e-mail him or give him a call. I'll need to find out if he has something available for public consumption. He does many shows and conventions, so you can catch up to him at one of those, if he is there.

I haven't done it in a while, but I've found a good number of books in the used book stores, so it is always worthwhile to check those near you out on a fairly regular basis.

Amazon.com often lists used books for titles, so you can go through http://www.amazon.com and look there.

Then, there are any number of used book dealers online, such as the Abe's books mentioned above. Be cautious when dealing with them, though. Some might not be on the up and up. Abe's has a good reputation though. Recent books out of print, some of which may still be available through regular retail channels, can be found at http://www.bookcloseouts.com .


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 2:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: Fish Disease and Cure [WAS RE: [AquaticLife] gourami help/puffer help]

Hello Steeve for your book " Science of Fish Health Management: Master
Volume you can check at abebook http://www.abebooks.com/ I buy one few
month ago. You have a nice list of book, I recognize many I already got, I
will check latter to see which one can be interesting to add.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17470 From: Evita Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
I love that idea. I would say one could also do one with a draw-string pretty easily. Why didn't I think of that. I love those thick couch throws too. They come in many sizes, colors and designs.I was really lucky that the 50 gal I bought had a rod iron stand with it. It has a storage shelf underneath too. But I like the idea of a skirt to hide my supplies. It is a cleaner look for sure. You could also make several skirts as to change it up from time to time. Evita

"Rev. Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote: If you are crafty...or know someone that is, put some elastic around the top
of the skirt so it can be fastened around the bottom of the tank. This
would make it so you can remove it for cleaning. You could also get plywood
to put in-between the bricks to make shelving for storage. Another item
that would work...and look better than cinder blocks...get some railroad
ties and cut them up to make the legs. Put a piece of plywood on the bottom
and somewhere in-between 2 of the ties and you have instant shelving. To
make sure this all stays together, you could drill a couple of holes through
the timbers and get some long bolts to fasten them together. I would
recommend something similar if you are using cinder blocks as well.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Evita
Sent: Sunday, 09 July 2006 05:40
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 55 gallon stand needed

I saw someone that had a 75 gal done that way with a cloth draped over it.
They used the underneath as a place to store all their aquarium stuff
well-hiden. Keep in mind that cloth does get dusty depending where you live.
So choose a good color. I have a table with my birds on it done that way. I
have to wash the cloth every now and then. Evita

Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com wrote:
Cinder blocks and two by fours are also an inexpensive way to get a tank up
off the floor. If you don't like the look of it get some fabric that you
like and staple it to the wood or tuck it under the tank before you fill the

tank. All of three of these items are pretty inexpensive and easy to setup.

In a message dated 7/8/2006 3:59:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
brennewoman@ <mailto:brennewoman%40hotmail.com> hotmail.com writes:

You can use a variety of things for an aquarium stand. We have an old
iron typewriter stand from the 1920's under one of our aquariums, and
an old dry sink under another.

> I am need of a stand for a 55 gallon aquarium and was wondering if
> anyone can help me out with this.
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17471 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
one other thing too...you might want to put a thick piece of plywood on the
top for the tank to sit on...this way the bottom of the tank has proper
support.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Evita
Sent: Sunday, 09 July 2006 18:59
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 55 gallon stand needed



I love that idea. I would say one could also do one with a draw-string
pretty easily. Why didn't I think of that. I love those thick couch throws
too. They come in many sizes, colors and designs.I was really lucky that the
50 gal I bought had a rod iron stand with it. It has a storage shelf
underneath too. But I like the idea of a skirt to hide my supplies. It is a
cleaner look for sure. You could also make several skirts as to change it up
from time to time. Evita

"Rev. Eric Roberts" <woad@witchnet. <mailto:woad%40witchnet.org> org> wrote:
If you are crafty...or know someone that is, put some elastic around the top
of the skirt so it can be fastened around the bottom of the tank. This
would make it so you can remove it for cleaning. You could also get plywood
to put in-between the bricks to make shelving for storage. Another item
that would work...and look better than cinder blocks...get some railroad
ties and cut them up to make the legs. Put a piece of plywood on the bottom
and somewhere in-between 2 of the ties and you have instant shelving. To
make sure this all stays together, you could drill a couple of holes through
the timbers and get some long bolts to fasten them together. I would
recommend something similar if you are using cinder blocks as well.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Evita
Sent: Sunday, 09 July 2006 05:40
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 55 gallon stand needed

I saw someone that had a 75 gal done that way with a cloth draped over it.
They used the underneath as a place to store all their aquarium stuff
well-hiden. Keep in mind that cloth does get dusty depending where you live.
So choose a good color. I have a table with my birds on it done that way. I
have to wash the cloth every now and then. Evita

Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com wrote:
Cinder blocks and two by fours are also an inexpensive way to get a tank up
off the floor. If you don't like the look of it get some fabric that you
like and staple it to the wood or tuck it under the tank before you fill the

tank. All of three of these items are pretty inexpensive and easy to setup.

In a message dated 7/8/2006 3:59:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
brennewoman@ <mailto:brennewoman%40hotmail.com> hotmail.com writes:

You can use a variety of things for an aquarium stand. We have an old
iron typewriter stand from the 1920's under one of our aquariums, and
an old dry sink under another.

> I am need of a stand for a 55 gallon aquarium and was wondering if
> anyone can help me out with this.
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17472 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/9/2006
Subject: Dont' know what's wrong w/lethargic clown loach laying on side
Aloha

I'm new to this list, though I posted about a year ago
when I got my very first tank. I posted about 5 days
ago on a new baby clown loach I got, the first new
fish I've gotten in over a year, after getting rid of
all 3 of my large fish about 2 wks ago. I kept my
large (3.5") clown loach and a couple small plecos and
1 sm. snail. I went from a 29 gal to a 10 gal
(temporarily) and had no problems.

I didn't know how long to float the new fish which is
what I had posted last week. I wound up floating for
maybe 1/2 hour or so, then added him to tank. At first
there were no problems. Now for the last few days my
normally active lg. clown lays on his side, and I'm
not sure he's eating. I'm not talking about the normal
laying on side - he's doing it all the time.

I did put in a heater set at 82 degrees, which I
haven't done in months since I live in Hawaii. The
tank is clean, there's 2 air stones and a good filter.
I don't see evidence of ich, though I've actually
never seen it b/4. Should I have quarantined the new
fish b/4 adding? Could he have given mine something?
Interestingly, the baby clown sticks by the big clown,
almost like he's not wanting to leave him while he's
sick.

What could the problem be?

Cinde, Hawaii

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17473 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: adding salt to freshwater
Hi Karen,

Not all fish are salt lovers...BUT yes many people say that salt is the first barrier against spreading diseases etc..it also used (i do it) to reduce stress levels in newly introduced fish or transfer of fish from one tank to another or after clenaing the tanks and introducing back to the fish because it will have an effect on the water density as well as the oxygen in the water. There are other uses and other things why salt is good but i cannot remember or just dont know about them!

Nigel

Is it a healthy thing to keep a small level of salt added to a freshwater
tank? Does'nt it keep bacteria and parasites from growing?

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17474 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Dont' know what's wrong w/lethargic clown loach laying on side
I had the same prob once, it was ich, it didnt show like to rest but after a few days it did, i would treat the guy with ich and feed him only once a day and a few sticks, also try offering him a varied diet not only sticks, even live / frozen food, the temperature helps as well!!

Nigel

bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote:
Aloha

I'm new to this list, though I posted about a year ago
when I got my very first tank. I posted about 5 days
ago on a new baby clown loach I got, the first new
fish I've gotten in over a year, after getting rid of
all 3 of my large fish about 2 wks ago. I kept my
large (3.5") clown loach and a couple small plecos and
1 sm. snail. I went from a 29 gal to a 10 gal
(temporarily) and had no problems.

I didn't know how long to float the new fish which is
what I had posted last week. I wound up floating for
maybe 1/2 hour or so, then added him to tank. At first
there were no problems. Now for the last few days my
normally active lg. clown lays on his side, and I'm
not sure he's eating. I'm not talking about the normal
laying on side - he's doing it all the time.

I did put in a heater set at 82 degrees, which I
haven't done in months since I live in Hawaii. The
tank is clean, there's 2 air stones and a good filter.
I don't see evidence of ich, though I've actually
never seen it b/4. Should I have quarantined the new
fish b/4 adding? Could he have given mine something?
Interestingly, the baby clown sticks by the big clown,
almost like he's not wanting to leave him while he's
sick.

What could the problem be?

Cinde, Hawaii

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17475 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Hi all
Hi steve,

I dont know which bichir you have but be careful as not all of them are friendly....do some research about him...i have a senegal bichir and i am trying to keep him as tame as possible.

Nigel

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote:
I've decided to update one of my tanks to a 50-gallon breeder. like the width for my bicher. Problem I'm having is I can't seem to find a roght iron stand locally to fit it. the tank is easy enough to find, but everyone has pine stands and one place actually has a stainless steel stand (way too much money). Anyone know of anyplace that sells a rought (Sp?) iron stand for a 50-gallon breeder that will ship it?

Also, since I also want to make this a planted tank, what tank mates would be ok with him AND a planted tank. Thanks in advance!

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17476 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Can you keep angels at a pH of 7.2? I know that stability is most
important so is that possible? I know of several that have done it
successfully but what are the odds w/ baby angels (dime size)?
I'm trying to find some peat moss for my filters but no luck (unless I
want to buy in mass which I don't.) If anyone has some to spare (that
hasn't been treated w/ anything) I'd be glad to buy it off you.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17477 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Try the little Jiffy7 pots for starting seeds, that is what I use for the killis, clean it real well works good for me and was what was suggested. Make little peat pouches for some of the other killis using this stuff, didn't need a monster amount myself that's why I really prefer these, can presoak the amount I need to change things out.

Have angels in a couple tanks with a ph of 7.2 and they are doing well along with a few others LOL

Shannon

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
Can you keep angels at a pH of 7.2? I know that stability is most
important so is that possible? I know of several that have done it
successfully but what are the odds w/ baby angels (dime size)?
I'm trying to find some peat moss for my filters but no luck (unless I
want to buy in mass which I don't.) If anyone has some to spare (that
hasn't been treated w/ anything) I'd be glad to buy it off you.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17478 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Leslie, You can definitely keep Angels at a pH of 7.2, there is no
problem at all. By your remark of "several have done it successfully",
makes it sound next to impossible. Many people keep, breed and rear
angels in moderately alkaline (pH) water every day, provided they are
not wild fish. Wild Angels and Discus need acid water to breed. Both
the domestic Discus and Angelfish are adaptable and will take a pH of
7.2 just fine. Your dime-size baby Angels should do well, especially
(but not necessarily) if they have been raised in such water, which is
extremely possible. I had eight pairs of Angelfish breeding in a pH of
7.4 to 7.6 some 45 years ago, when I was using my tap water. Now I
have 4 X's that many (lol), but I'm using my well water of pH 6.6.
However, some of my customers have their pH at 7.4ish and have no
problems at all keeping them as they adapt well. No need for peat
moss. Main thing is to check the pH they come in and if much different
than your tank water, "drip" them in by using a piece of air-line
tubing with a two way valve (or knot it loosely) and let your tank
water mix into their container water slowly through this over a period
of an hour or more -- the longer the better. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Can you keep angels at a pH of 7.2? I know that stability is most
> important so is that possible? I know of several that have done it
> successfully but what are the odds w/ baby angels (dime size)?
> I'm trying to find some peat moss for my filters but no luck (unless I
> want to buy in mass which I don't.) If anyone has some to spare (that
> hasn't been treated w/ anything) I'd be glad to buy it off you.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17479 From: Leslie Hennis Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Leslie,
We have 65gal. tank with Angels. Over the past two years, the tank has
been between 7.0 to 7.4. It usually sits at 7.2. We test and log weekly.
We've had plenty of matings and egg laying. We've never had babies but
the eggs get eaten first. One of these days we will let them produce
offspring by getting rid of their tank mates.

Les
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17480 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
The water they are in now is a pH of 6.5. I did find some peat moss and
added it about an hour ago. I'll check the level again around 5ish and
if it has dropped any then I will bring them home (the angelfish.)

IF I do keep peat moss (which someday I'd like to have discus so would
need something to consitently lower/stabilize the pH) do I need to
change it out every so often as would a filter cartridge?

~Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17481 From: shefy7 Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Anyone want to buy 2 baby marble catsharks? bay area,CA?
Hi everyone, my friend bought me 2 baby marble catsharks, they're only
about 3-4 inches long. They love shrimp :) They are very active and in
beautiful condition. He bought them for $90, I'll give them to someone
for $75. My tank is wayyyyy too smalll for them and I want them to do
well! Please have a good tank setup, they get along very well with
other fish also...I have starfish, snails, crabs, damsels, gobys...

Email me for pics...oh and I live in Fremont and could meet you around
here...

Thanks!
Shefy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17482 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
Leslie I have a bad new, it take more than few hour to lower the PH with
peat, depending on the KH (buffer) level of the water It can take days,
and many change of the peat, First you have to check the KH of your tank
and the one of your tap water, if the KH is too high you will have to make
water change with soft water, (rain water, dist. water or demineralised
water,) do not use chemical with phosphate to lower the PH , they make the
algae grow more.

Come back to us with the KH level

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 10 juillet, 2006 14:58
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?

The water they are in now is a pH of 6.5. I did find some peat moss and
added it about an hour ago. I'll check the level again around 5ish and
if it has dropped any then I will bring them home (the angelfish.)

IF I do keep peat moss (which someday I'd like to have discus so would
need something to consitently lower/stabilize the pH) do I need to
change it out every so often as would a filter cartridge?

~Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17483 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type salt?Which med?
Aloha

Thank you so much, Nigel. I went online last night and read
everything I could on clowns and new fish and ich, etc. Here's what
I think I learned:

I failed to realize the impact of stress on my existing clown when I
transferred him from 30 gal to new, smaller (*temporary*)
10-gal tank w/dif. water temp; Failed to QT the new baby clown and
only floated him in existing tank for ~30 min; Failed to realize
that abrupt temp change can trigger ich; Didn't get a heater into
tank w/temp of 85 when I noticed symptoms; Don't yet have ich meds.
I don't see any white spots or change in coloring in either fish but
also have never seen ich and read that you should treat anyway if
you think you have it. I put heater at 85 in tank yesterday and
today clown is off his side. BTW, the 2 clowns' mates are 2 small
plecos and 1 sm. snail.

Now some questions:
1) Do I separate the new baby, now in tank w/existing 3.5" clown
loach since last wk, can I treat them together in same tank? Right
now, all I have is a new 10 gal tank, meant to be temporary until
next mo. when I can get a 30 or 55.

2) Should I add salt *together* w/ich med and if so, what kind?
Table salt? Sea salt? Ocean salt? Epsom salt?

3) What is a recommended ich med, since there are probably tons.
The 2 mentioned were "Rid-Ich" and "Maracide." Also read that clowns
are very sensitive to meds and to use 1/2 normal dose, for a longer
period than recommended on lable?

4) Is it true that you stick w/malachite green/formalin combo and
not copper?

5) I read that organics absorb the meds and to take out the charcoal
in filter. But what do I use for filter-don't they need a filter?
Also said to take out the snail during treatment, and I assume I
take out plants bec. they're organic?

6) The 10-gal tank they're in doesn't have a lid and no light. Does
that make a difference? I have a full-spectrum Ott light that I use
for my finches that I can clip on. Does light make a difference?

7)Why is it recommended to test levels of freshwater? I thought you
only test salt water.

8) What are the "sticks" you mentioned in previous post, and why did
you recommend feeding just once/day? I want to get the clowns some
food they'll love. We have live brine shrimp which I'm giving now. I
read they like worms - does that include mealworms? What are algae
wafers and is that tasty for them?

Appreciate any advice. Realizing how much more I have to learn, and
I really want to do it right.

Cinde, Hawaii

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Nigel Chetcuti
<nigelchetcuti@...> wrote:
>
> I had the same prob once, it was ich, it didnt show like to rest
but after a few days it did, i would treat the guy with ich and feed
him only once a day and a few sticks, also try offering him a varied
diet not only sticks, even live / frozen food, the temperature helps
as well!!
>
> Nigel
>
> bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote:
> Aloha
>
> I'm new to this list, though I posted about a year ago
> when I got my very first tank. I posted about 5 days
> ago on a new baby clown loach I got, the first new
> fish I've gotten in over a year, after getting rid of
> all 3 of my large fish about 2 wks ago. I kept my
> large (3.5") clown loach and a couple small plecos and
> 1 sm. snail. I went from a 29 gal to a 10 gal
> (temporarily) and had no problems.
>
> I didn't know how long to float the new fish which is
> what I had posted last week. I wound up floating for
> maybe 1/2 hour or so, then added him to tank. At first
> there were no problems. Now for the last few days my
> normally active lg. clown lays on his side, and I'm
> not sure he's eating. I'm not talking about the normal
> laying on side - he's doing it all the time.
>
> I did put in a heater set at 82 degrees, which I
> haven't done in months since I live in Hawaii. The
> tank is clean, there's 2 air stones and a good filter.
> I don't see evidence of ich, though I've actually
> never seen it b/4. Should I have quarantined the new
> fish b/4 adding? Could he have given mine something?
> Interestingly, the baby clown sticks by the big clown,
> almost like he's not wanting to leave him while he's
> sick.
>
> What could the problem be?
>
> Cinde, Hawaii
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17484 From: kb1dva Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
I have always wanted one and never have been able to get one – I can pick up
anytime thanks Em



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rev. Eric Roberts
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 12:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 55 gallon stand needed



If you are crafty...or know someone that is, put some elastic around the top
of the skirt so it can be fastened around the bottom of the tank. This
would make it so you can remove it for cleaning. You could also get plywood
to put in-between the bricks to make shelving for storage. Another item
that would work...and look better than cinder blocks...get some railroad
ties and cut them up to make the legs. Put a piece of plywood on the bottom
and somewhere in-between 2 of the ties and you have instant shelving. To
make sure this all stays together, you could drill a couple of holes through
the timbers and get some long bolts to fasten them together. I would
recommend something similar if you are using cinder blocks as well.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Evita
Sent: Sunday, 09 July 2006 05:40
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 55 gallon stand needed

I saw someone that had a 75 gal done that way with a cloth draped over it.
They used the underneath as a place to store all their aquarium stuff
well-hiden. Keep in mind that cloth does get dusty depending where you live.
So choose a good color. I have a table with my birds on it done that way. I
have to wash the cloth every now and then. Evita

Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com wrote:
Cinder blocks and two by fours are also an inexpensive way to get a tank up
off the floor. If you don't like the look of it get some fabric that you
like and staple it to the wood or tuck it under the tank before you fill the

tank. All of three of these items are pretty inexpensive and easy to setup.

In a message dated 7/8/2006 3:59:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
brennewoman@ <mailto:brennewoman%40hotmail.com> hotmail.com writes:

You can use a variety of things for an aquarium stand. We have an old
iron typewriter stand from the 1920's under one of our aquariums, and
an old dry sink under another.

> I am need of a stand for a 55 gallon aquarium and was wondering if
> anyone can help me out with this.
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17485 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish at 7.2 pH? Spare peat moss?
You could also try putting some citrus rind in the filter. I did that
for a while and it worked just fine

> Can you keep angels at a pH of 7.2? I know that stability is most
> important so is that possible? I know of several that have done it
> successfully but what are the odds w/ baby angels (dime size)?
> I'm trying to find some peat moss for my filters but no luck (unless I
> want to buy in mass which I don't.) If anyone has some to spare (that
> hasn't been treated w/ anything) I'd be glad to buy it off you.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17486 From: DJ Matera Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: baby fish food for sale!!! cheap!!!
I am selling baby fish food, perfect for small fry who need special
small foods. Come in mix it yourself or prepared.

3.50 dollars per measured cup. I am doing this to save up for a new
tank and new fish. I hope I can help you with your needs!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17487 From: Aaron Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: 55 gallon stand needed
craigslist dot com has a lot of FREE stuff in my area
(http://sfbay.craigslist.org/zip/)

also WalMart has a nice looking stand for $76 some assembly required
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17488 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Dont' know what's wrong w/lethargic clown loach laying on side
Clowns laying on their side is normal behavior for them...

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Nigel Chetcuti
Sent: Monday, 10 July 2006 03:40
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Dont' know what's wrong w/lethargic clown loach
laying on side



I had the same prob once, it was ich, it didnt show like to rest but after a
few days it did, i would treat the guy with ich and feed him only once a day
and a few sticks, also try offering him a varied diet not only sticks, even
live / frozen food, the temperature helps as well!!

Nigel

bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@ <mailto:bunnycareshi%40yahoo.com> yahoo.com>
wrote:
Aloha

I'm new to this list, though I posted about a year ago
when I got my very first tank. I posted about 5 days
ago on a new baby clown loach I got, the first new
fish I've gotten in over a year, after getting rid of
all 3 of my large fish about 2 wks ago. I kept my
large (3.5") clown loach and a couple small plecos and
1 sm. snail. I went from a 29 gal to a 10 gal
(temporarily) and had no problems.

I didn't know how long to float the new fish which is
what I had posted last week. I wound up floating for
maybe 1/2 hour or so, then added him to tank. At first
there were no problems. Now for the last few days my
normally active lg. clown lays on his side, and I'm
not sure he's eating. I'm not talking about the normal
laying on side - he's doing it all the time.

I did put in a heater set at 82 degrees, which I
haven't done in months since I live in Hawaii. The
tank is clean, there's 2 air stones and a good filter.
I don't see evidence of ich, though I've actually
never seen it b/4. Should I have quarantined the new
fish b/4 adding? Could he have given mine something?
Interestingly, the baby clown sticks by the big clown,
almost like he's not wanting to leave him while he's
sick.

What could the problem be?

Cinde, Hawaii

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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---------------------------------
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ease of use." - PC Magazine

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17489 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Dont' know what's wrong w/lethargic clown loach laying on s...
very true mine do it all the time but there full of life lol


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17490 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type salt?Which med?
Cinde,

I do not have direct experience with clown loaches. They would fall
under the category of scaleless fish, and you do need to research any
suggested medication for their effects on scaleless fish. (You may have
read my posts over the weekend.)

Since you have now placed the two fish together, and something has
affected at least the older one, there is no sense in separating them
now. Leave them be and treat together.

From the information you have provided, I'd not jump to the conclusion
that you have ich. So far as I am aware, ich will always manifest itself
with the cysts that look like salt granules on the body of the fish. It
will manifest itself, eventually, on all fish in the tank.

Outside the water temperature, you have not mentioned any of the other
water quality parameters, and how they might compare with the other
tank--the tank the fish came from. It could simply be that your clown is
"sulking" because things are not as they used to be. Given time, he will
get over it. Until you have a better diagnosis, I'd hold off on any
medication.

You do not really need charcoal (hopefully it is activated carbon and
not charcoal) in your filtration system all the time. It should only be
used when there is a condition that would warrant the addition of it to
your filtration system. Carbon is not picky about what it removes and
removes the good with the bad. Once its capacity has been used, it will
start to release it back into the water and not always in the
combination it was when it was first picked up.

Unless the fish are not getting any of the ambient room light, then add
the light. The ambient light should be enough for them. Lighting the
tank is more for our pleasure in viewing the fish and for the health of
any plants you may have in the tank.

Ahh, no wonder you did not give any water parameters--you don't test.
Testing is important. Knowing when to test and what to test for is
important as well. In a new tank, you'll probably want to be testing on
a daily basis for the first several weeks, until the tank stabilizes.
From then on, weekly, or in the case of real stability, longer intervals
between tests are fine. In a small tank, like the 10, you will want to
test often. When things go wrong, they can go wrong very quickly because
of the small volume of water.

You would need, at a minimum, test kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and
nitrate. There are many other kits to test for many other things, but
I'd not get them unless you have a specific need for them. Buy only kits
that have dated reagents (those are the chemicals used to perform the
tests) as the reagents have a limited shelf life and will give you false
readings if they out live their expiration dates.

Your problem with the loach may have been a beginning of the natural
biological cycle in the new tank, but we will not know without the
measurements of the nitrogenous substances.

The sticks Nigel mentions are a type of food that come in the form of
small sticks. You also have pellet type foods, flake foods, and granular
foods. One of the big mistakes many people make is to over feed their
fish. Fish do not have large stomachs, so they do not need large amounts
of food. Fish are opportunistic feeders. If food is present, they eat,
if it is not, they don't. A fish that may be a bit hungry is more active
than one that is full. Feeding once a day is more a convenience for the
fishkeeper than the fish. Feed no more than can be eaten in a couple of
minutes. If you wish to feed more often, feed less at each feeding, say
30 seconds per meal if you feed 4 times a day. If you are feeding live
foods, then you can feed enough so that some remains in the tank, if it
can live in the water, then the fish are in a more natural condition
where they can hunt or ambush their prey. For fish that are more
vegetarian in nature, feed foods hat are heavy on plant matter, for the
carnivores, feed meaty type foods. For the omnivores, mix it up.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 4:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type
salt?Which med?

Aloha

Thank you so much, Nigel. I went online last night and read
everything I could on clowns and new fish and ich, etc. Here's what
I think I learned:

I failed to realize the impact of stress on my existing clown when I
transferred him from 30 gal to new, smaller (*temporary*)
10-gal tank w/dif. water temp; Failed to QT the new baby clown and
only floated him in existing tank for ~30 min; Failed to realize
that abrupt temp change can trigger ich; Didn't get a heater into
tank w/temp of 85 when I noticed symptoms; Don't yet have ich meds.
I don't see any white spots or change in coloring in either fish but
also have never seen ich and read that you should treat anyway if
you think you have it. I put heater at 85 in tank yesterday and
today clown is off his side. BTW, the 2 clowns' mates are 2 small
plecos and 1 sm. snail.

Now some questions:
1) Do I separate the new baby, now in tank w/existing 3.5" clown
loach since last wk, can I treat them together in same tank? Right
now, all I have is a new 10 gal tank, meant to be temporary until
next mo. when I can get a 30 or 55.

2) Should I add salt *together* w/ich med and if so, what kind?
Table salt? Sea salt? Ocean salt? Epsom salt?

3) What is a recommended ich med, since there are probably tons.
The 2 mentioned were "Rid-Ich" and "Maracide." Also read that clowns
are very sensitive to meds and to use 1/2 normal dose, for a longer
period than recommended on lable?

4) Is it true that you stick w/malachite green/formalin combo and
not copper?

5) I read that organics absorb the meds and to take out the charcoal
in filter. But what do I use for filter-don't they need a filter?
Also said to take out the snail during treatment, and I assume I
take out plants bec. they're organic?

6) The 10-gal tank they're in doesn't have a lid and no light. Does
that make a difference? I have a full-spectrum Ott light that I use
for my finches that I can clip on. Does light make a difference?

7)Why is it recommended to test levels of freshwater? I thought you
only test salt water.

8) What are the "sticks" you mentioned in previous post, and why did
you recommend feeding just once/day? I want to get the clowns some
food they'll love. We have live brine shrimp which I'm giving now. I
read they like worms - does that include mealworms? What are algae
wafers and is that tasty for them?

Appreciate any advice. Realizing how much more I have to learn, and
I really want to do it right.

Cinde, Hawaii
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17491 From: Jenn Phillips Date: 7/10/2006
Subject: Re: Question about when to add fish
While I am by no means an expert, and don't know that what I have to say will be helpful, but here goes: For four years now I've had a 29 gallon with 9 healthy goldfish and one danio (who was caught by the petstore clerk by mistake when going after an algae eater). All have been quite healthy, and we're just now beginning to seem "crowded". The biggest goldfish is about 6" now, the smallest is about 3". Anyway, it can be done...just add them slowly. We did three goldfish every couple of months (which kind of explains the variation in sizes). The danio has always been quite entertaining...a tiny fish who won't be bullied by even the biggest goldfish. The top middle tank area is his and nobody better linger or he's after them! I'm beginning to set up a tropical tank, and plan to put several danios in it, because of this one little guy.
Jenn


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17492 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type salt?Which med?
HI Cinde,

good to hear the little chap is ok! and good to hear you done some research on your own that means that you love the hobby!!
for the questions here goes:

1. no leave him there as he is you already stressed him out enough, besides treating all of them with ich isnt much of a deal, it wont harm the rest, many say to remove and many say NOT to but in your case on what happened moving him again will make him restless more and more, so i would take a small risk and treat all the tank with ich, read the instructions carefully and dosage so that you dont over do it!!

2. If you are going to treat ich with med then no salt, if you want to treat it with nature ie salt and temperature you may do so...THOUGH i dont think that its a good idea for you as a beginner!! its not very easy and sometimes it less of a problem to go buy a med and work it out then when you become more experienced try the natural way out!

3.Yes its true clowns are more sensitive...i used to use aquarium pharmaceuticals ich products it was great i dont know what there is in the market now sorry been long since i bought but generally a good fish shop can help you in that.

4.sorry didnt understand this one!!

5. The charcoal of the filter absorbs organic and chemicals present in the water therefore all you need to take out is the charcoal the foam and other filter media can stay in the filter...the snail and plants well thats up to the instructions on the med you will buy though nowadays most of the meds wont harm invertibrates and plants!!

6.Light doesnt make much difference in tanks just the normal light that enters in the room is enough for the fish..for the plants i dont know what you have and how much light intesity they require! dont forget generally speaking scavengers and bottom feeders like what you have prefer the night to go out and feed!!

7. OK lets put it this way...you drink water no? how do you know it's safe to drink? they test the water and take awat all impurities. Now, Fish live in water, when you need to go to the bathroom your waste products are flushed away, fish cant do that in very crude terms fish swim in there pee!! So yes it is important very very important to test your water mainly for pH (acids and alkalines found in the water), Ammonia (mainly due to waste products excreated by fish) and Nitrites, Nitrates and Hardness for a beginner those are the most basic if i remember well! Do some research about these!!

8. The sticks are one variety of food that is normally given by shops to people who try clowns or bottom feeders! algae wafers are sort of pellets (more flat to seem bigger!!) that sink and the bottom feeder eat upon its based on a balanced diet of meat and algae that fish should love (they do in fact) dont panic if they dont eat it immediately some like to sort of play with there food!! they take a piece now then later on etc etc. Feed them as well with live food, yes they like a variety of worms...be reasonable though some worms can dirty your whole tank and its not nice, apart from that in your 10 gallon i would prefer leaving a bit light just a few brine shrimps per day and then some wafers, dont forget it you have 3 people eating in a small room and 3 people eating in a big room the small room will get dirty faster than the big one!!

I think that thats all! any further queries just post again!

Nigel Chetcuti


unnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote:
Aloha

Thank you so much, Nigel. I went online last night and read
everything I could on clowns and new fish and ich, etc. Here's what
I think I learned:

I failed to realize the impact of stress on my existing clown when I
transferred him from 30 gal to new, smaller (*temporary*)
10-gal tank w/dif. water temp; Failed to QT the new baby clown and
only floated him in existing tank for ~30 min; Failed to realize
that abrupt temp change can trigger ich; Didn't get a heater into
tank w/temp of 85 when I noticed symptoms; Don't yet have ich meds.
I don't see any white spots or change in coloring in either fish but
also have never seen ich and read that you should treat anyway if
you think you have it. I put heater at 85 in tank yesterday and
today clown is off his side. BTW, the 2 clowns' mates are 2 small
plecos and 1 sm. snail.

Now some questions:
1) Do I separate the new baby, now in tank w/existing 3.5" clown
loach since last wk, can I treat them together in same tank? Right
now, all I have is a new 10 gal tank, meant to be temporary until
next mo. when I can get a 30 or 55.

2) Should I add salt *together* w/ich med and if so, what kind?
Table salt? Sea salt? Ocean salt? Epsom salt?

3) What is a recommended ich med, since there are probably tons.
The 2 mentioned were "Rid-Ich" and "Maracide." Also read that clowns
are very sensitive to meds and to use 1/2 normal dose, for a longer
period than recommended on lable?

4) Is it true that you stick w/malachite green/formalin combo and
not copper?

5) I read that organics absorb the meds and to take out the charcoal
in filter. But what do I use for filter-don't they need a filter?
Also said to take out the snail during treatment, and I assume I
take out plants bec. they're organic?

6) The 10-gal tank they're in doesn't have a lid and no light. Does
that make a difference? I have a full-spectrum Ott light that I use
for my finches that I can clip on. Does light make a difference?

7)Why is it recommended to test levels of freshwater? I thought you
only test salt water.

8) What are the "sticks" you mentioned in previous post, and why did
you recommend feeding just once/day? I want to get the clowns some
food they'll love. We have live brine shrimp which I'm giving now. I
read they like worms - does that include mealworms? What are algae
wafers and is that tasty for them?

Appreciate any advice. Realizing how much more I have to learn, and
I really want to do it right.

Cinde, Hawaii

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Nigel Chetcuti
<nigelchetcuti@...> wrote:
>
> I had the same prob once, it was ich, it didnt show like to rest
but after a few days it did, i would treat the guy with ich and feed
him only once a day and a few sticks, also try offering him a varied
diet not only sticks, even live / frozen food, the temperature helps
as well!!
>
> Nigel
>
> bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote:
> Aloha
>
> I'm new to this list, though I posted about a year ago
> when I got my very first tank. I posted about 5 days
> ago on a new baby clown loach I got, the first new
> fish I've gotten in over a year, after getting rid of
> all 3 of my large fish about 2 wks ago. I kept my
> large (3.5") clown loach and a couple small plecos and
> 1 sm. snail. I went from a 29 gal to a 10 gal
> (temporarily) and had no problems.
>
> I didn't know how long to float the new fish which is
> what I had posted last week. I wound up floating for
> maybe 1/2 hour or so, then added him to tank. At first
> there were no problems. Now for the last few days my
> normally active lg. clown lays on his side, and I'm
> not sure he's eating. I'm not talking about the normal
> laying on side - he's doing it all the time.
>
> I did put in a heater set at 82 degrees, which I
> haven't done in months since I live in Hawaii. The
> tank is clean, there's 2 air stones and a good filter.
> I don't see evidence of ich, though I've actually
> never seen it b/4. Should I have quarantined the new
> fish b/4 adding? Could he have given mine something?
> Interestingly, the baby clown sticks by the big clown,
> almost like he's not wanting to leave him while he's
> sick.
>
> What could the problem be?
>
> Cinde, Hawaii
>






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17493 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: cooling fan
i use them on all my tanks - fw & sw. they work great but of course increase the evap. rate.

supamii <supamii@...> wrote: was able to put together 4 computer fans running on an AC adapter.
the fan's inner workings like the circuit board is not exactly
protected from the elements - i'm primarily worried about over-night
condensation

does anyone have experience using computer fans to help with
evaporation for cooling purposes? i need help coming up with an
installation scheme and effective placement strategies for the fans

its summertime now for me and the tank is HOT - help!






Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17494 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: cooling fan
I say some small tanks yes that had computer fans attached to the tank cover...they didnt use any type of covers or anything in fact i thought about the bearings inside that they would corrode or something.
They were angled at a 45 degrees and the flow of air was away the water...which makes sense becuase if hot air rises up then the fan will capture that heat and blow it away from the water surface of the water. ANOTHER IMPORTANT THING TO HELP to cool abit the wate ris the introduction of an air pump with a full open power on the air...this is becuase it will move the water and giving more flow of heat into the water...rising hot water captured in the air bubble up out of the water and away it goes....I AM not saying that i will reduce the temperature by alot but helps alotttt

Nigel

supamii <supamii@...> wrote:
was able to put together 4 computer fans running on an AC adapter.
the fan's inner workings like the circuit board is not exactly
protected from the elements - i'm primarily worried about over-night
condensation

does anyone have experience using computer fans to help with
evaporation for cooling purposes? i need help coming up with an
installation scheme and effective placement strategies for the fans

its summertime now for me and the tank is HOT - help!






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17495 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: Question about when to add fish
how long did you set up the tank and left it to mature in alone?? if more than 2 weeks in all then you might add a goldfish at a time dont over do it though! you might end up with the new tank syndrome

Nigel

momofholly2002 <marian816@...> wrote:
I set up a 40 gal. tank and have been checking the the ph, nitrates,
ammonia, co2, etc. every day. All are fine. I added 4 daino 5 days
ago and everything in the water is fine. When is it safe to add
goldfish?






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17496 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type salt?Which med?
Aloha

Thank you Eric, and esp. to Steve and Nigel for such very thorough
answers! Today I found Aquarium Salt at, of all places, WalMart. It
says "for freshwater fish - all natural." Oddly, none of the pet
stores had it. I also got a small bubble wand since my clown loves
his bubble stones so much! I also algae wafers and Tubifex freeze
dried and frozen and I think also dry bloodworms. Also found some
Ich remedies that are only malachite green/formalin. Will get the
treats and ich stuff later this afternoon.

Here are 2 w/sites I thought were good for explaining and treating
ich. Do you agree w/this info?

http://www.netpets.com/fish/reference/freshref/ich.html

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdailyfaqs.htm
(scroll almost 1/2 down to "Troubles with Ich-7/7/06"

I really liked the Q&A on the wetwebmedia site.
Since one of them says to use the aq. salt + ich med. I'd like to
try that, unless someone says otherwise. Also, one of the sites,
maybe I didn't reference it, says to treat for ich even if not sure
the fish has it-does that sound right? Re testing the water, I also
found the test strips for the 5 levels Nigel previously mentioned.
Will get those today, too. I just never knew you were supposed to
test freshwater - thought only saltwater.

I am going to keep them together and treat them together as it makes
sense that no further stress is warranted, and I would assume by now
that what one has, the other has too.

I have always been a firm believer in thoroughly researching and
learning as much as you can about any pet you own. I actually did
public community workshops here in tandem w/my vet for 5 years on
proper care for one particular pet. Just didn't do enough research
for my fish.

I have what might be a dumb question re temporary large "tank", but
will address in my next post.

Cinde, Hawaii

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Nigel Chetcuti
<nigelchetcuti@...> wrote:
>
> HI Cinde,
>
> good to hear the little chap is ok! and good to hear you done
some research on your own that means that you love the hobby!!
> for the questions here goes:
>
> 1. no leave him there as he is you already stressed him out
enough, besides treating all of them with ich isnt much of a deal,
it wont harm the rest, many say to remove and many say NOT to but in
your case on what happened moving him again will make him restless
more and more, so i would take a small risk and treat all the tank
with ich, read the instructions carefully and dosage so that you
dont over do it!!
>
> 2. If you are going to treat ich with med then no salt, if you
want to treat it with nature ie salt and temperature you may do
so...THOUGH i dont think that its a good idea for you as a
beginner!! its not very easy and sometimes it less of a problem to
go buy a med and work it out then when you become more experienced
try the natural way out!
>
> 3.Yes its true clowns are more sensitive...i used to use
aquarium pharmaceuticals ich products it was great i dont know what
there is in the market now sorry been long since i bought but
generally a good fish shop can help you in that.
>
> 4.sorry didnt understand this one!!
>
> 5. The charcoal of the filter absorbs organic and chemicals
present in the water therefore all you need to take out is the
charcoal the foam and other filter media can stay in the
filter...the snail and plants well thats up to the instructions on
the med you will buy though nowadays most of the meds wont harm
invertibrates and plants!!
>
> 6.Light doesnt make much difference in tanks just the normal
light that enters in the room is enough for the fish..for the plants
i dont know what you have and how much light intesity they require!
dont forget generally speaking scavengers and bottom feeders like
what you have prefer the night to go out and feed!!
>
> 7. OK lets put it this way...you drink water no? how do you know
it's safe to drink? they test the water and take awat all
impurities. Now, Fish live in water, when you need to go to the
bathroom your waste products are flushed away, fish cant do that in
very crude terms fish swim in there pee!! So yes it is important
very very important to test your water mainly for pH (acids and
alkalines found in the water), Ammonia (mainly due to waste products
excreated by fish) and Nitrites, Nitrates and Hardness for a
beginner those are the most basic if i remember well! Do some
research about these!!
>
> 8. The sticks are one variety of food that is normally given by
shops to people who try clowns or bottom feeders! algae wafers are
sort of pellets (more flat to seem bigger!!) that sink and the
bottom feeder eat upon its based on a balanced diet of meat and
algae that fish should love (they do in fact) dont panic if they
dont eat it immediately some like to sort of play with there food!!
they take a piece now then later on etc etc. Feed them as well with
live food, yes they like a variety of worms...be reasonable though
some worms can dirty your whole tank and its not nice, apart from
that in your 10 gallon i would prefer leaving a bit light just a few
brine shrimps per day and then some wafers, dont forget it you have
3 people eating in a small room and 3 people eating in a big room
the small room will get dirty faster than the big one!!
>
> I think that thats all! any further queries just post again!
>
> Nigel Chetcuti
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17497 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: How much salt to add to 10 gal?
Aloha

I apologize if this question has already been
addressed, but having just gotten my first Aquarium
Salt today, and about to give my first dose of Ich med
today, how much salt do I add to my 10 gal?
The instrux on container says to add 1 tbspn/5 gal of
water. I added only 1 tbspn, even though I have a
10- gal., just to be on the safe side, since I keep
reading that clowns are sensitive fish. I also did a
50% water change. Are the instrux correct, and should
I add another tbspn?

Cinde, Hawaii

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17498 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: How much salt to add to 10 gal?
Yes, the instructions are correct; use 1 Tablespoon salt per 5
gallons of water (2 Tbsp. for 10 gallons) -- and no more -- and this
is if you are not intending to use medications for the Ich, but only
heat. This amount of salt should be fine for Loaches, Corys and
plants. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...>
wrote:
>
> Aloha
>
> I apologize if this question has already been
> addressed, but having just gotten my first Aquarium
> Salt today, and about to give my first dose of Ich med
> today, how much salt do I add to my 10 gal?
> The instrux on container says to add 1 tbspn/5 gal of
> water. I added only 1 tbspn, even though I have a
> 10- gal., just to be on the safe side, since I keep
> reading that clowns are sensitive fish. I also did a
> 50% water change. Are the instrux correct, and should
> I add another tbspn?
>
> Cinde, Hawaii
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17499 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/11/2006
Subject: Re: Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type salt?Which med?
You can find it in the grocery store as well--it is called kosher salt.

You still have not convinced me that ich is your problem. It is like
look at poor Cinde, she can hardly get herself out of bed. I've been
reading and she must have chicken pox. Let's treat her for chicken pos.
You'd probably come back with where are the fluid filled sacs all over
my bod? Where is the itching? You've not mentioned the telltale sign of
ich, the salt crystal like cysts on the body of the fishes in your tank.

Be sure you are treating your fish for the right disease or infection.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 8:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:Lethargic CL on side-assume ich?/QT both?Type
salt?Which med?

Aloha

Thank you Eric, and esp. to Steve and Nigel for such very thorough
answers! Today I found Aquarium Salt at, of all places, WalMart. It
says "for freshwater fish - all natural." Oddly, none of the pet
stores had it. I also got a small bubble wand since my clown loves
his bubble stones so much! I also algae wafers and Tubifex freeze
dried and frozen and I think also dry bloodworms. Also found some
Ich remedies that are only malachite green/formalin. Will get the
treats and ich stuff later this afternoon.

Here are 2 w/sites I thought were good for explaining and treating
ich. Do you agree w/this info?

http://www.netpets.com/fish/reference/freshref/ich.html

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdailyfaqs.htm
(scroll almost 1/2 down to "Troubles with Ich-7/7/06"

I really liked the Q&A on the wetwebmedia site.
Since one of them says to use the aq. salt + ich med. I'd like to
try that, unless someone says otherwise. Also, one of the sites,
maybe I didn't reference it, says to treat for ich even if not sure
the fish has it-does that sound right? Re testing the water, I also
found the test strips for the 5 levels Nigel previously mentioned.
Will get those today, too. I just never knew you were supposed to
test freshwater - thought only saltwater.

I am going to keep them together and treat them together as it makes
sense that no further stress is warranted, and I would assume by now
that what one has, the other has too.

I have always been a firm believer in thoroughly researching and
learning as much as you can about any pet you own. I actually did
public community workshops here in tandem w/my vet for 5 years on
proper care for one particular pet. Just didn't do enough research
for my fish.

I have what might be a dumb question re temporary large "tank", but
will address in my next post.

Cinde, Hawaii

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Nigel Chetcuti
<nigelchetcuti@...> wrote:
>
> HI Cinde,
>
> good to hear the little chap is ok! and good to hear you done
some research on your own that means that you love the hobby!!
> for the questions here goes:
>
> 1. no leave him there as he is you already stressed him out
enough, besides treating all of them with ich isnt much of a deal,
it wont harm the rest, many say to remove and many say NOT to but in
your case on what happened moving him again will make him restless
more and more, so i would take a small risk and treat all the tank
with ich, read the instructions carefully and dosage so that you
dont over do it!!
>
> 2. If you are going to treat ich with med then no salt, if you
want to treat it with nature ie salt and temperature you may do
so...THOUGH i dont think that its a good idea for you as a
beginner!! its not very easy and sometimes it less of a problem to
go buy a med and work it out then when you become more experienced
try the natural way out!
>
> 3.Yes its true clowns are more sensitive...i used to use
aquarium pharmaceuticals ich products it was great i dont know what
there is in the market now sorry been long since i bought but
generally a good fish shop can help you in that.
>
> 4.sorry didnt understand this one!!
>
> 5. The charcoal of the filter absorbs organic and chemicals
present in the water therefore all you need to take out is the
charcoal the foam and other filter media can stay in the
filter...the snail and plants well thats up to the instructions on
the med you will buy though nowadays most of the meds wont harm
invertibrates and plants!!
>
> 6.Light doesnt make much difference in tanks just the normal
light that enters in the room is enough for the fish..for the plants
i dont know what you have and how much light intesity they require!
dont forget generally speaking scavengers and bottom feeders like
what you have prefer the night to go out and feed!!
>
> 7. OK lets put it this way...you drink water no? how do you know
it's safe to drink? they test the water and take awat all
impurities. Now, Fish live in water, when you need to go to the
bathroom your waste products are flushed away, fish cant do that in
very crude terms fish swim in there pee!! So yes it is important
very very important to test your water mainly for pH (acids and
alkalines found in the water), Ammonia (mainly due to waste products
excreated by fish) and Nitrites, Nitrates and Hardness for a
beginner those are the most basic if i remember well! Do some
research about these!!
>
> 8. The sticks are one variety of food that is normally given by
shops to people who try clowns or bottom feeders! algae wafers are
sort of pellets (more flat to seem bigger!!) that sink and the
bottom feeder eat upon its based on a balanced diet of meat and
algae that fish should love (they do in fact) dont panic if they
dont eat it immediately some like to sort of play with there food!!
they take a piece now then later on etc etc. Feed them as well with
live food, yes they like a variety of worms...be reasonable though
some worms can dirty your whole tank and its not nice, apart from
that in your 10 gallon i would prefer leaving a bit light just a few
brine shrimps per day and then some wafers, dont forget it you have
3 people eating in a small room and 3 people eating in a big room
the small room will get dirty faster than the big one!!
>
> I think that thats all! any further queries just post again!
>
> Nigel Chetcuti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17500 From: DJ Matera Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: baby fish food for sale!!! cheap!!!
new low price! $1.50 per measured cup!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "DJ Matera" <bepfan54321@...> wrote:
>
> I am selling baby fish food, perfect for small fry who need special
> small foods. Come in mix it yourself or prepared.
>
> 3.50 dollars per measured cup. I am doing this to save up for a new
> tank and new fish. I hope I can help you with your needs!!!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17501 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Lethargic CL on side,etc/Salt/If not ich, what?/Plastic "tank"ok?
Aloha

Thank you Steve and Ray. 2 other thoughts on the salt: If I make a
25-50% water change, do I replenish the salt correspondingly? Also,
doesn't salt kill snails? Also, I'm going to add the bubble wand to
the existing 2 bubble stones today. I've been using a 40 air pump
for the last year, but realized I have a new 60 pump. Does the
higher power 60 make a good difference?

I did not get the ich med yesterday. But adult clown is still not
swimming around, though he's no longer on side and hasn't been for
couple days. He did his infamous "nose-down-into-the-bubbles" thing
last night, which he always did at night when he was "normal." But I
did notice yesterday that he just stays in a corner of the tank. The
baby is acting pretty active, though, and seems to like to stay by
the adult.

Having never seen ich, it's entirely possible the adult doesn't have
it, and I'm glad you keep reminding me of this, Steve. Could he just
be unhappy w/a 10 gal tank, or just recuperating from the stress of
the move to the smaller tank, and having his first new tankmate in
over a year?

If the above may be true, I have what may be a dumb question.
I'm a teacher and w/school not starting til late July and no pay til
late Aug.,I just can't afford the 29 or 55gal I'd like til then.
However, I saw a huge, 90qt clear plastic container at W-Mart
yesterday. It's got to be a good 30+" long and tall enough to fit
the filter. Is that ok til August, just to give him some space?

Cinde, Hawaii

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You can find it in the grocery store as well--it is called kosher
salt.
>
> You still have not convinced me that ich is your problem. It is
like
> look at poor Cinde, she can hardly get herself out of bed. I've
been
> reading and she must have chicken pox. Let's treat her for chicken
pos.
> You'd probably come back with where are the fluid filled sacs all
over
> my bod? Where is the itching? You've not mentioned the telltale
sign of
> ich, the salt crystal like cysts on the body of the fishes in your
tank.
>
> Be sure you are treating your fish for the right disease or
infection.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17502 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Changing tank dynamics
Boy life in the tanks changes fast sometimes. :P Our fish all seemed
to hit a growth spurt at once. The two angels suddenly became uber-
agressive and started chasing our other fish around mercilessly, the
lone female betta in the 30 gallon tank got depressed and sick, and the
plecostamus finally outgrew our tank. He was going through about ten
algae wafers a day and still was eating my plants, when he didn't
uproot them swimming through the tank. Sooo, I put him in a bucket and
took him to our local fish store. Got a lovely bunch of smaller fish
in exchange, and moved the angelfish pair to our 30 gallon tank, where
they look like they might just breed. MEanwhile the community tank is
hopping with activity, and the big blue gourami is hiding in the
corner, looking confused. We got a dwarf aquatic frog in the mix, and
he is so comical looking! Just love him!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17503 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Giant Danios w/ dropsy?
My giant danios seem to always have something wrong w/ them. I have
two.

One has extremely red fins at the base and all over every fin. The
other has semi-red fins (always has) but his gut is swollen and to the
point it's hanging down into almost an upside down triangle, it's to a
point almost.
WHAT could this be? The red tells me bacterial, the swelling w/ the
bacterial makes me think dropsy.
There is little to no swelling outwardly, just downward for now and in
only one area.

Is dropsy contagious? I know it's fast spreading and likely not
treatable, but I'm more worried about my blood parrots getting whatever
this is.

Any thoughts are very welcome!

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17504 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: salt in freshwater
OK. My 90 now has, 3 white lyrtail mollies, 2 black lyrtail mollies, 1
female betta, 2 angels(which have been fighting. What do I do?) 1 plecostamus, 1
pictus catfish, and 1 ghost knife fish. I am planning on keeping a low level of
salt in there because I see that my fish are thriving better.
I have a hydrometer. Where should I keep the salt level at? Do I use Doc
Wellfishes aquarium salt to continue a permanent salt level?
I have also moved my baby oscar to my 29 gallon which has 5 spotted Cory
cats and 1 plecostamus.
I want to keep that tank as well with a low salt level.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17505 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: Giant Danios w/ dropsy?
If the fish is swollen only in the gut area, it sounds more like
constipation to me. A bath in epsom salts and fasting for three days
followed by some thawed frozen peas for food usually clears that right
up. Epsome salts can also help with a mild bacterial infection
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17506 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Hydrometer, ????, you don't put salt with pleco and ghost YOU WILL KILL
THEM , they like soft and acid water. It's not an hydrometer you need, it's
a test kit to check the KH and GH , test your water, put peat moss instead
to make it more acid if it's to alkaline and put the molly in an other tank
with salt for them , they like hard water. I will suggest also a good but
simple book on chemistry of water.

Sorry Karen if I look direct, but it's important than every aquarist make
some reading on the need of their fish. I don't know what is " Doc
Wellfishes aquarium salt" because I have only acid water fish, and I will
never put salt, exept in some hospital tank for treat some diseases, but be
aware, the ghost do not tolerate salt. It's question of osmoses ( all cell
of any cellular animal (bacteria to human) need a good balance of
salt....... I stop here for now )

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Morganawolf1@...
Envoyé : 12 juillet, 2006 19:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] salt in freshwater

OK. My 90 now has, 3 white lyrtail mollies, 2 black lyrtail mollies, 1
female betta, 2 angels(which have been fighting. What do I do?) 1
plecostamus, 1
pictus catfish, and 1 ghost knife fish. I am planning on keeping a low level
of
salt in there because I see that my fish are thriving better.
I have a hydrometer. Where should I keep the salt level at? Do I use Doc
Wellfishes aquarium salt to continue a permanent salt level?
I have also moved my baby oscar to my 29 gallon which has 5 spotted Cory
cats and 1 plecostamus.
I want to keep that tank as well with a low salt level.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17507 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Sorry I should say they like neutral to little acid, 6.5 to 7 for the
ghost and pleco, but the Angel can go a little more acid but 6.5 to 7.0 is
acceptable for all. BUT DEFINITIVELY NO SALT



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 12 juillet, 2006 19:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] salt in freshwater

Hydrometer, ????, you don't put salt with pleco and ghost YOU WILL KILL
THEM , they like soft and acid water. It's not an hydrometer you need, it's
a test kit to check the KH and GH , test your water, put peat moss instead
to make it more acid if it's to alkaline and put the molly in an other tank
with salt for them , they like hard water. I will suggest also a good but
simple book on chemistry of water.

Sorry Karen if I look direct, but it's important than every aquarist make
some reading on the need of their fish. I don't know what is " Doc
Wellfishes aquarium salt" because I have only acid water fish, and I will
never put salt, exept in some hospital tank for treat some diseases, but be
aware, the ghost do not tolerate salt. It's question of osmoses ( all cell
of any cellular animal (bacteria to human) need a good balance of
salt....... I stop here for now )

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Morganawolf1@...
Envoyé : 12 juillet, 2006 19:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] salt in freshwater

OK. My 90 now has, 3 white lyrtail mollies, 2 black lyrtail mollies, 1
female betta, 2 angels(which have been fighting. What do I do?) 1
plecostamus, 1
pictus catfish, and 1 ghost knife fish. I am planning on keeping a low level
of
salt in there because I see that my fish are thriving better.
I have a hydrometer. Where should I keep the salt level at? Do I use Doc
Wellfishes aquarium salt to continue a permanent salt level?
I have also moved my baby oscar to my 29 gallon which has 5 spotted Cory
cats and 1 plecostamus.
I want to keep that tank as well with a low salt level.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17508 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Well, I will let the salt cycle out and make arrangements to move the
mollies. Otherwise, my Ghost and pleco are thriving. I don't see them complaining
at all.
Thanks for the input.
karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17509 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: sexing Angelifish
Anybody have a clue on how to tell the difference between male and female
Angelfish? I am trying to figure out why my Angelfish are fighting now. They
never did before. And it gets pretty intense.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17510 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Just to throw in my two cents. Salt is OK to use as a prophylactic for a
short period of time, with most fish, but it should not be used long
term with most fish. Say you get a new fish in, you might throw a bit of
salt into the quarantine tank for a week or so, then cut back on its
use, unless there is an indicator that its use should continue, like,
say, ich, in which case you would raise the temperature also.

While most fish are very adaptable, the increase in the activity and
other signs of apparent good health would not continue with long term
use.

There are fish, though, that do enjoy an occasional dose of slat. Most
of these fish come from environments where marine water mixes with
fresh. Many wild mollies, as well as those only a few generations
removed, would enjoy this type of treatment, However, most of the
mollies you see available have been raised for generations in
freshwater, and for all practical purposed, should be treated as they
were strictly freshwater fish.

To get off the topic a bit, I really did not join in on a recent
discussion of angels and pH that occurred here a short while ago. If I
were getting angels from the wild (and they are available, if you know
where to look), I'd be looking to put them in water that has a pH of
5.0-6.0. If I was buying them out of the mass market (most LFS sell mass
market angels), I'd keep them at a higher level of pH--probably all the
way up to 7.5, if that is what my water was like. These angels would do
just fine. If they were wild angels, they would probably not do well,
and for several generations, they would not do well, if the originals
were inclined to bring me future generations.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 7:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] salt in freshwater

OK. My 90 now has, 3 white lyrtail mollies, 2 black lyrtail mollies, 1
female betta, 2 angels(which have been fighting. What do I do?) 1
plecostamus, 1
pictus catfish, and 1 ghost knife fish. I am planning on keeping a low
level of
salt in there because I see that my fish are thriving better.
I have a hydrometer. Where should I keep the salt level at? Do I use Doc

Wellfishes aquarium salt to continue a permanent salt level?
I have also moved my baby oscar to my 29 gallon which has 5 spotted Cory

cats and 1 plecostamus.
I want to keep that tank as well with a low salt level.

Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17511 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: Lethargic CL on side,etc/Salt/If not ich, what?/Plastic "tank"o
Cinde,

Need more information on the air pump. The 40 and 60 numbers don't mean
a thing to me without more information. If you at least gave the brand,
we could probably look it up on the web or elsewhere and give you an
intelligent answer.

When doing a water change and using additives such as salt, fill the
tank to its normal level first, then do the water change. Then add salt
in the proportion of the water change. If you do not replace the
evaporated water, and add salt in the proper proportion to the added
water, the salt level will actually start to increase rather than remain
roughly the same.

I'd be hesitant to add water to that 90 gallon thing you saw at the
store. I'd worry that it would not be sturdy enough for the weight of
the water. Remember, distilled water weighs just barely over 8.4 pound
per gallon. You can usually figure about 10 pound per gallon for a tank
setup with gravel and decorations. If you think it can take the stress
of all that weight, by all means go ahead. However, don't be coming back
here crying about it when it all ends up on your floor. If your LFS
sells acrylic tanks, take a look at them next time you visit and pay
particular attention to the thickness of the acrylic. If that 90 gallon
thingy doesn't approach that thickness, you will probably be screwed.
Also, plastics tend to flex. This is one of the problems with acrylic
tanks, though they have done a good job of alleviating that problem.

As for your clown, that is my guess. If the tank was not cycled prior to
the addition of the fish, he probably was a bit upset about the nitrogen
levels he found in the tank. Now it is beginning to cycle and he is
feeling better about it. Remember ich will look like salt granules on
the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 3:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:Lethargic CL on side,etc/Salt/If not ich,
what?/Plastic "tank"ok?

Aloha

Thank you Steve and Ray. 2 other thoughts on the salt: If I make a
25-50% water change, do I replenish the salt correspondingly? Also,
doesn't salt kill snails? Also, I'm going to add the bubble wand to
the existing 2 bubble stones today. I've been using a 40 air pump
for the last year, but realized I have a new 60 pump. Does the
higher power 60 make a good difference?

I did not get the ich med yesterday. But adult clown is still not
swimming around, though he's no longer on side and hasn't been for
couple days. He did his infamous "nose-down-into-the-bubbles" thing
last night, which he always did at night when he was "normal." But I
did notice yesterday that he just stays in a corner of the tank. The
baby is acting pretty active, though, and seems to like to stay by
the adult.

Having never seen ich, it's entirely possible the adult doesn't have
it, and I'm glad you keep reminding me of this, Steve. Could he just
be unhappy w/a 10 gal tank, or just recuperating from the stress of
the move to the smaller tank, and having his first new tankmate in
over a year?

If the above may be true, I have what may be a dumb question.
I'm a teacher and w/school not starting til late July and no pay til
late Aug.,I just can't afford the 29 or 55gal I'd like til then.
However, I saw a huge, 90qt clear plastic container at W-Mart
yesterday. It's got to be a good 30+" long and tall enough to fit
the filter. Is that ok til August, just to give him some space?

Cinde, Hawaii

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You can find it in the grocery store as well--it is called kosher
salt.
>
> You still have not convinced me that ich is your problem. It is
like
> look at poor Cinde, she can hardly get herself out of bed. I've
been
> reading and she must have chicken pox. Let's treat her for chicken
pos.
> You'd probably come back with where are the fluid filled sacs all
over
> my bod? Where is the itching? You've not mentioned the telltale
sign of
> ich, the salt crystal like cysts on the body of the fishes in your
tank.
>
> Be sure you are treating your fish for the right disease or
infection.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17512 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/12/2006
Subject: Re: sexing Angelifish
No idea. I'm assuming I have a male and female because they suddenly
got aggressive towards everything else in the tank. I had to remove
them to a different tank by themselves

> Anybody have a clue on how to tell the difference between male and
female
> Angelfish? I am trying to figure out why my Angelfish are fighting
now. They
> never did before. And it gets pretty intense.
> Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17513 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: Lethargic CL on side,etc/Salt/If not ich, what?/Plastic "tank"ok?
Aloha

Thanks, Steve. Here's what the air pump says on the box:
Silent Air Bubbles-Stellar W-6- Recommended: Depth of water: up to
69", No. of devices: up to 6, Tank volume: Up to 40G-Air pump
features Silent operation, Compact design, Powerful motor, Long
life. Then on the warranty part it says "Your Oscar Air pumps is
warranted, etc" Not sure why it's called a "Stellar", then referred
to as "Oscar" in the warranty part. Anyway, I'm assuming the 60 is
more powerful than the 40 I have now? I didn't save box on the 40.

The adult Clown is not moving from his same corner as yesterday
though he has not been on his side, and the new baby is having a
field day in the tank, though he still occasionally stays side-by-
side w/adult. I haven't added the bubble curtain yet because I
haven't figured out how to use the 2-way brass gang valve. Will go
to pet store today to show me how.

Re doing 25-50% water changes, will follow your instrux. Re spots
and ich, I just don't see any, then worry they're so small I'm
missing them. Again, don't understand why the salt doesn't kill the
snail.

Knowing nothing about how fish react to stress, does staying in
corner for 2-3 days sound like stress alone?

In mentioning distilled water, I've been using tap water. Is that
ok, and should I use that stuff that says "water conditioner"
or "filters out chlorine"?

Re the plastic storage thing - it's actually 90L (assuming liters)
and not 90 gallons, but it's big, and, as I recall, easily the size
of the 29 long, or longer. I don't have the 10 gal, nor the former
29gal on a stand - it's on the kitchen counter (no, I don't use the
stove) so entirely sturdy.

Cinde, Hawaii

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Cinde,
>
> Need more information on the air pump. The 40 and 60 numbers don't
mean
> a thing to me without more information. If you at least gave the
brand,
> we could probably look it up on the web or elsewhere and give you
an
> intelligent answer.
>
> When doing a water change and using additives such as salt, fill
the
> tank to its normal level first, then do the water change. Then add
salt
> in the proportion of the water change. If you do not replace the
> evaporated water, and add salt in the proper proportion to the
added
> water, the salt level will actually start to increase rather than
remain
> roughly the same.
>
> I'd be hesitant to add water to that 90 gallon thing you saw at the
> store. I'd worry that it would not be sturdy enough for the weight
of
> the water. Remember, distilled water weighs just barely over 8.4
pound
> per gallon. You can usually figure about 10 pound per gallon for a
tank
> setup with gravel and decorations. If you think it can take the
stress
> of all that weight, by all means go ahead. However, don't be
coming back
> here crying about it when it all ends up on your floor. If your LFS
> sells acrylic tanks, take a look at them next time you visit and
pay
> particular attention to the thickness of the acrylic. If that 90
gallon
> thingy doesn't approach that thickness, you will probably be
screwed.
> Also, plastics tend to flex. This is one of the problems with
acrylic
> tanks, though they have done a good job of alleviating that
problem.
>
> As for your clown, that is my guess. If the tank was not cycled
prior to
> the addition of the fish, he probably was a bit upset about the
nitrogen
> levels he found in the tank. Now it is beginning to cycle and he is
> feeling better about it. Remember ich will look like salt granules
on
> the fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17514 From: Mark Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: DVAGA Meeting and Anubias Design Open House
There will be a meeting of the Delaware Valley Aquatic Gardeners
Association at 1:00 pm on Saturday, July 15th at the home of Mark
Denaro in Bensalem, PA. Mark will present a program on Aquascaping.
The meeting will be followed by an open house for Mark's company,
Anubias Design. Refreshments will be served. Both events are open to
everyone. For directions, please email Mark at
anubiasdesign@....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17515 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: Re: sexing Angelifish
The only conclusive way to tell is when they breed.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 11:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] sexing Angelifish

Anybody have a clue on how to tell the difference between male and female
Angelfish? I am trying to figure out why my Angelfish are fighting now. They
never did before. And it gets pretty intense.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17516 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: Re: Giant Danios w/ dropsy?
Dropsy is not contagious. Dropsy usually shows as a general swelling of
the body with the scales of the fish standing out at an angle to the
body.

You mention the redness of the fins. I would suspect stress, probably
due to poor water quality. No mention was made of your water parameters,
generally important in diagnosing fish. Nor do you tell us about any of
the other fish in the tank.

Danios are schooling fish. This means you should be keeping at least 6
of them in your tank for their comfort and your enjoyment.

The swelling you see may be an egg bound female. There may be other
causes for the swelling as well, perhaps a blockage. You also did not
mention appetite, nor behaviors of the fish and whether they have
changed over the last several days or since before you noticed the
symptoms.

The members of this list have a lot of knowledge they can share, but you
need to meet us halfway, give us something to work with so we can help
you and your fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 6:48 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Giant Danios w/ dropsy?

My giant danios seem to always have something wrong w/ them. I have
two.

One has extremely red fins at the base and all over every fin. The
other has semi-red fins (always has) but his gut is swollen and to the
point it's hanging down into almost an upside down triangle, it's to a
point almost.
WHAT could this be? The red tells me bacterial, the swelling w/ the
bacterial makes me think dropsy.
There is little to no swelling outwardly, just downward for now and in
only one area.

Is dropsy contagious? I know it's fast spreading and likely not
treatable, but I'm more worried about my blood parrots getting whatever
this is.

Any thoughts are very welcome!

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17517 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: Re: Lethargic CL on side,etc/Salt/If not ich, what?/Plastic "tank"o
Oscar is a name I haven't heard in a while. I don't have time to look up
tonight--had a dinner meeting and got home pretty late, it is nearly
11:30 now, and I only got a few hours of sleep last night. The joys of
being in IT <g>.

The larger Oscar will probably give you the air you need for the wand.

90 gallons or 90 liters, the same arguments apply, though there will be
less water on the floor when the unit gives at 90 liters.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 4:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:Lethargic CL on side,etc/Salt/If not ich,
what?/Plastic "tank"ok?

Aloha

Thanks, Steve. Here's what the air pump says on the box:
Silent Air Bubbles-Stellar W-6- Recommended: Depth of water: up to
69", No. of devices: up to 6, Tank volume: Up to 40G-Air pump
features Silent operation, Compact design, Powerful motor, Long
life. Then on the warranty part it says "Your Oscar Air pumps is
warranted, etc" Not sure why it's called a "Stellar", then referred
to as "Oscar" in the warranty part. Anyway, I'm assuming the 60 is
more powerful than the 40 I have now? I didn't save box on the 40.

The adult Clown is not moving from his same corner as yesterday
though he has not been on his side, and the new baby is having a
field day in the tank, though he still occasionally stays side-by-
side w/adult. I haven't added the bubble curtain yet because I
haven't figured out how to use the 2-way brass gang valve. Will go
to pet store today to show me how.

Re doing 25-50% water changes, will follow your instrux. Re spots
and ich, I just don't see any, then worry they're so small I'm
missing them. Again, don't understand why the salt doesn't kill the
snail.

Knowing nothing about how fish react to stress, does staying in
corner for 2-3 days sound like stress alone?

In mentioning distilled water, I've been using tap water. Is that
ok, and should I use that stuff that says "water conditioner"
or "filters out chlorine"?

Re the plastic storage thing - it's actually 90L (assuming liters)
and not 90 gallons, but it's big, and, as I recall, easily the size
of the 29 long, or longer. I don't have the 10 gal, nor the former
29gal on a stand - it's on the kitchen counter (no, I don't use the
stove) so entirely sturdy.

Cinde, Hawaii

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Cinde,
>
> Need more information on the air pump. The 40 and 60 numbers don't
mean
> a thing to me without more information. If you at least gave the
brand,
> we could probably look it up on the web or elsewhere and give you
an
> intelligent answer.
>
> When doing a water change and using additives such as salt, fill
the
> tank to its normal level first, then do the water change. Then add
salt
> in the proportion of the water change. If you do not replace the
> evaporated water, and add salt in the proper proportion to the
added
> water, the salt level will actually start to increase rather than
remain
> roughly the same.
>
> I'd be hesitant to add water to that 90 gallon thing you saw at the
> store. I'd worry that it would not be sturdy enough for the weight
of
> the water. Remember, distilled water weighs just barely over 8.4
pound
> per gallon. You can usually figure about 10 pound per gallon for a
tank
> setup with gravel and decorations. If you think it can take the
stress
> of all that weight, by all means go ahead. However, don't be
coming back
> here crying about it when it all ends up on your floor. If your LFS
> sells acrylic tanks, take a look at them next time you visit and
pay
> particular attention to the thickness of the acrylic. If that 90
gallon
> thingy doesn't approach that thickness, you will probably be
screwed.
> Also, plastics tend to flex. This is one of the problems with
acrylic
> tanks, though they have done a good job of alleviating that
problem.
>
> As for your clown, that is my guess. If the tank was not cycled
prior to
> the addition of the fish, he probably was a bit upset about the
nitrogen
> levels he found in the tank. Now it is beginning to cycle and he is
> feeling better about it. Remember ich will look like salt granules
on
> the fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17518 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/13/2006
Subject: Lethargic CL on side,etc/Correction
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "bunnycareshi" <bunnycareshi@...>
wrote:
> Thanks, Steve. Here's what the air pump says on the box:
> Silent Air Bubbles-Stellar W-6-

Mistake - I meant to state the model as "W-60", not "W-6"

Cinde
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17519 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: 2 questions: feeding frogs to fish & cleaning water stains
I have water drip stains on the aquarium and they will not come off.
They've turned white. What can I use to get these off? The standard
aquarium glass cleaner isn't doing it.

My friend has a pond on her property which has thousands of tadpoles and
mini frogs. Would these be any health benefit to my fish? They're
about 1/4- 1/2" in size.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17520 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: sexing Angelifish
Well, at least THEY can tell the difference. LOL


> The only conclusive way to tell is when they breed.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17521 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: 2 questions: feeding frogs to fish & cleaning water stains
You can use vinegar on a cotton ball to clean that off...it's hardened
minerals and vinegar helps to get rid of those stains. If it's
stubborn use strong vinegar with a bit of salt for scrubbing, or let
the vinegar sit on it a bit.

> I have water drip stains on the aquarium and they will not come off.
> They've turned white. What can I use to get these off? The standard
> aquarium glass cleaner isn't doing it.
>
> My friend has a pond on her property which has thousands of tadpoles
and
> mini frogs. Would these be any health benefit to my fish? They're
> about 1/4- 1/2" in size.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17522 From: Beth Brownell Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Adding Guppies to a 55 gallon tank?
I have been looking at some Guppies to add to my 55 gallon tank in my
computer room.
It has 6 Angelfishes, two silver red tail fishes, and a single red
tetra within it and the tank had two 60 gallon filters.

Would adding Guppies to the mix be bad idea or a good one?
I'm planning on adding about 6 guppies to the tank when I get home from
Winnipeg Canada.

Thanks,
Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17523 From: Nicolas J. Munro Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Problems with fish 'skin' falling off.
Well it's been quite some time since i have posted on here and by
the looks of it the number of postings have dropped to a quater of
what they used to be around December last yet.


Any ways, to help boost the stats i have a question actually a
problem:


About 3 months ago i had 12 happy tiger barbs and one by one they
have all died apart from the last remaining two. But they are also
on there way to their doom.

The tiger barbs left in the tank must be about 1 year old. According
to the web they should live to between 5 and 7 years in a healthy
tank.

Symptoms:
The tiger barbs start to dive bomb a couple of my crypts, particular
the one with large leaves. About a week later the 'skin' seams to
turn white, starting about the size of 5mm then getting to be 90% of
the side of the fish.

The tiger barb then starts to float head down tails up and the belly
seams to be more bloated.

Usually after about 3 or 4 days latter the fish will have a deep
wound on the side deep into the muscle and dies.


What is the disease name and more importantly how do i create
conditions where it doesn't occur?

Pics available, water temp between 35 degC (95F) and 28 degC (82F),
I have recently tried dropping the water temp.



Help, all but two tiger barbs left and i don't want to loose my
sharks, guppies, mollies or any of the other fish in my tank
(90Gallons).
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17524 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: Problems with fish 'skin' falling off.
I got the same thing (this week) after treat 2 Silver Dollar with Melafix
and Primafix, (for fin rot) the first day some little spot of
discoloration, so I remove the fish of the melafix and primafix to treat
with antibiotic, ( since white patch are cause by bacterial infection,) the
thing get worst. The scale of the fish come white starting from the tail
going to the head, around 50 to 70% of the body turn white, the fish at the
end look paralyze , the wound you observe have been may be cause by
other fish who abuse of the dying one. I never lost fish so fast.

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Nicolas J. Munro
Envoyé : 14 juillet, 2006 20:19
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Problems with fish 'skin' falling off.

Well it's been quite some time since i have posted on here and by
the looks of it the number of postings have dropped to a quater of
what they used to be around December last yet.


Any ways, to help boost the stats i have a question actually a
problem:


About 3 months ago i had 12 happy tiger barbs and one by one they
have all died apart from the last remaining two. But they are also
on there way to their doom.

The tiger barbs left in the tank must be about 1 year old. According
to the web they should live to between 5 and 7 years in a healthy
tank.

Symptoms:
The tiger barbs start to dive bomb a couple of my crypts, particular
the one with large leaves. About a week later the 'skin' seams to
turn white, starting about the size of 5mm then getting to be 90% of
the side of the fish.

The tiger barb then starts to float head down tails up and the belly
seams to be more bloated.

Usually after about 3 or 4 days latter the fish will have a deep
wound on the side deep into the muscle and dies.


What is the disease name and more importantly how do i create
conditions where it doesn't occur?

Pics available, water temp between 35 degC (95F) and 28 degC (82F),
I have recently tried dropping the water temp.



Help, all but two tiger barbs left and i don't want to loose my
sharks, guppies, mollies or any of the other fish in my tank
(90Gallons).








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17525 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: sexing Angelifish
OLOLOLOLO


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17526 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: Adding Guppies to a 55 gallon tank?
They should be fine...My angelfish eat guppy babies for us to keep the
population under control, so either get some plants for the babies to
hide in, or net them out when you see them, or just let nature take its
course.

> I have been looking at some Guppies to add to my 55 gallon tank in my
> computer room.
> It has 6 Angelfishes, two silver red tail fishes, and a single red
> tetra within it and the tank had two 60 gallon filters.
>
> Would adding Guppies to the mix be bad idea or a good one?
> I'm planning on adding about 6 guppies to the tank when I get home
from
> Winnipeg Canada.
>
> Thanks,
> Beth
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17527 From: Nicolas J. Munro Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: Problems with fish 'skin' falling off.
Yep sounds just like what i have... any suggestions of fixing it?

Actually i did treat for fin rot using melafix recently (last month
maybe).


The other fish (mollie or swordtail particuly) liked sucking on the
dead white parts. Not certain if they actually ate the flesh, i
think the bacteria was the one doing that.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I got the same thing (this week) after treat 2 Silver Dollar with
Melafix
> and Primafix, (for fin rot) the first day some little spot of
> discoloration, so I remove the fish of the melafix and primafix to
treat
> with antibiotic, ( since white patch are cause by bacterial
infection,) the
> thing get worst. The scale of the fish come white starting from
the tail
> going to the head, around 50 to 70% of the body turn white, the
fish at the
> end look paralyze , the wound you observe have been may be
cause by
> other fish who abuse of the dying one. I never lost fish so fast.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Nicolas J. Munro
> Envoyé : 14 juillet, 2006 20:19
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Problems with fish 'skin' falling off.
>
> Well it's been quite some time since i have posted on here and by
> the looks of it the number of postings have dropped to a quater of
> what they used to be around December last yet.
>
>
> Any ways, to help boost the stats i have a question actually a
> problem:
>
>
> About 3 months ago i had 12 happy tiger barbs and one by one they
> have all died apart from the last remaining two. But they are also
> on there way to their doom.
>
> The tiger barbs left in the tank must be about 1 year old.
According
> to the web they should live to between 5 and 7 years in a healthy
> tank.
>
> Symptoms:
> The tiger barbs start to dive bomb a couple of my crypts,
particular
> the one with large leaves. About a week later the 'skin' seams to
> turn white, starting about the size of 5mm then getting to be 90%
of
> the side of the fish.
>
> The tiger barb then starts to float head down tails up and the
belly
> seams to be more bloated.
>
> Usually after about 3 or 4 days latter the fish will have a deep
> wound on the side deep into the muscle and dies.
>
>
> What is the disease name and more importantly how do i create
> conditions where it doesn't occur?
>
> Pics available, water temp between 35 degC (95F) and 28 degC
(82F),
> I have recently tried dropping the water temp.
>
>
>
> Help, all but two tiger barbs left and i don't want to loose my
> sharks, guppies, mollies or any of the other fish in my tank
> (90Gallons).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17528 From: Nicolas J. Munro Date: 7/14/2006
Subject: Re: Adding Guppies to a 55 gallon tank?
In my tank guppie mothers are the most aggressive fish. More
aggresive than tiger barbs or sword tails.

But they lots of fun.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Brownell"
<spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
>
> I have been looking at some Guppies to add to my 55 gallon tank in
my
> computer room.
> It has 6 Angelfishes, two silver red tail fishes, and a single red
> tetra within it and the tank had two 60 gallon filters.
>
> Would adding Guppies to the mix be bad idea or a good one?
> I'm planning on adding about 6 guppies to the tank when I get home
from
> Winnipeg Canada.
>
> Thanks,
> Beth
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17529 From: Holly Nelson Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: looking for loaches
Hi all,

I have a large, handsome Weather Loach in my tank, established as a
peaceful colourful community tank of platies, neon tetras, a lone
guppy and a corydoras.

I'd like another one or two small weather loaches, preferably the gold
colour phase. I have heard that these loaches enjoy company of their
own kind and become very playful.

But the fish retailers I've approached tell me they are having a tough
time with these loaches, saying they usually die soon after arrival.

Anybody know what's up?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17530 From: beachcuriosity Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: just getting started
hi everyone. glad to know you're here. i just got my first tank.
but i'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. is this how you felt? any advice
for beginners?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17531 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: just getting started
Greetings to you,

First of all if this is your first tank, take your time with it and do some reading on how to keep fish. It is never a easy task and mistakes are easy to make. But when all is said and done, it is very rewarding and a wonderful hobby.

It is not difficult to get use to the whole idea. I would set the tank up, make sure you use a decholorinator and conditioners etc. in the water, have a good filter system. Let the tank go through its process for about two weeks, more or less before putting fish in it, that is what I did. If the tank gets cloudy and it probably will for a while, but that will clear in time and the tank will equalize itself. You did not say what size your tank was? You should also have a net, heater and the necessary things for keeping tropical fish, such as food etc.. Make sure when you do set up the tank, it is on a sturdy level spot with a good strong table or aquarium stand. Keep your temp in the water about 78-80 where possible, in summer in many places this is difficult to do, such as where I am, today shall be 106 so the radio says, so fans and air conditioner help. And I am in South Dakota.. If you have gravel, be sure that goes in too, about 3" on the bottom, so that you can plant live plants or anchor artificial plants and the gravel looks so nice too.

The idea for a new person is to take your time with this and read. Now you will no doubt read different ideas from different sources. You do what is best for you and your fish. No one set of rules applies to every person for every tank setup.

Lighting is a necessary item also, it is good to have 2 watts of lighting per gallon of water, but if you do not have that, do not go all to pieces, use what you have, many plants will grow with less and do well. Do not put in any live plants yet, perhaps a sprig or two maybe to help with algae growth etc...It also helps the aquarium go through its cycle prepairing it for fish. But plants (live that is) have to have food too and so being a new tank, there would not be much for them to live on.

I hope it all turns out alright for you, I know your going to love the hobby. There are really some very pretty fish out there. You did not say if this was for salt or fresh water? But I suppose it would be for fresh water.

Some of the easiest fish to keep are beautiful tetras, angel fish, guppies, platties, mollies etc.. They are readily available at you local fish shop.

Good luck,

Ivan
AquaMaze@...

----- Original Message -----
From: beachcuriosity
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 11:22 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] just getting started


hi everyone. glad to know you're here. i just got my first tank.
but i'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. is this how you felt? any advice
for beginners?






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.1/389 - Release Date: 7/14/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17532 From: harry perry Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: just getting started/ Start here
www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/beginner.htm When you are posting to any group you need to let us know any info about your tank, size, filtration, planted, etc. etc. etc. so we can help you. It really isn't hard. It's fun.

The first step is to make a decision, live plants? what kind of fish do you like? do you want to breed these fish?

The biggest mistake beginners make is not researching the fish they buy.

You need to plan. For example if you like Oscars, they grow to 14". This is a huge tank to house even 4 of these.

Base the size of your tank on the size of the fish when it is full grown. Not what your seeing now.

The common pleco, found in all Wallmart stores, pet shops etc. reaches 12", you can get plecos that won't grow that big. This is just an example.

I don't have unlimited funds for my hobie. So I set up my first 30 gal. this way:

An over sized Whisper filter. (I know I'm going to forget water changes)

No air stones. They are not needed with a filter that disturbs the surface water.

2 inches of gravel, for planting purposes.

I use Stress Coat and Stress Zyne to condition the water.

I picked fish using the 1" per gallon guide line, not a rule, a guide line combined with common sense. 3" of goldfish produces 3 times the waste of a 3" gourami. Use your head.

You will definitely need a testing kit.

I populated my tank with fish that stay small so I can have more of a variety.

This was years ago. I now have breeding tanks, species specific tanks, etc.

This is an exciting hobby, an excellent way to teach young children responsibility.

It can turn into a living nightmare if you don't do it right. That's what we are here for. To help you help yourself.

Harry (a moderator)







beachcuriosity <beachcuriosity@...> wrote: hi everyone. glad to know you're here. i just got my first tank.
but i'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. is this how you felt? any advice
for beginners?






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17533 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: OT: Check it Out for The Free
Ringtones, if nothing else:

Jean-Michel Cousteau: Ocean Adventures [Macromedia Flash Player, iTunes,
Real Player]
http://www.pbs.org/kqed/oceanadventures/

As Alan Lomax recorded the sounds of hundreds of different indigenous
musical traditions throughout his sixty-year career as a musicologist,
the
legendary Jacques-Yves Cousteau did similar work throughout the world's
oceans. Following in his footsteps, his son, Jean-Michel Cousteau
continues
to inform and delight with his own series of programs on public
television.
On this site, visitors can learn more about the work of Cousteau and his
colleagues as they examine the lives of sharks, gray whales, and the
unique
underwater ecosystems off the coastline of the continental United
States.
For each of these episodes, visitors can view clips of each program,
learn
about the goals of each expedition, download podcasts, and read a
glossary
of terms. Of course, there are also some fun items here as well,
including
free ringtones, interactive games, and screen savers.

>From The Scout Report, Copyright Internet Scout Project 1994-2006.
http://scout.wisc.edu/

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17534 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: 2 questions: feeding frogs to fish & cleaning water stains
Have you tried vinegar and elbow grease on the stains?

If your fish are carnivorous and large enough to eat them, you may have found a live food source (tadpoles) for your fish. Other than that, I'd not add them to your tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2006 11:19 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] 2 questions: feeding frogs to fish & cleaning water stains

I have water drip stains on the aquarium and they will not come off.
They've turned white. What can I use to get these off? The standard
aquarium glass cleaner isn't doing it.

My friend has a pond on her property which has thousands of tadpoles and
mini frogs. Would these be any health benefit to my fish? They're
about 1/4- 1/2" in size.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17535 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: sexing Angelifish
Not always. Sometimes you get two females doing the "wild thang". The
only clue is that all the eggs fungus, since none were fertilized.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2006 12:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: sexing Angelifish

Well, at least THEY can tell the difference. LOL


> The only conclusive way to tell is when they breed.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17536 From: Karen Millett Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: looking for loaches
They might not be shipping them properly to the store or they might have the proper conditions for them in their tanks. I had one for a very long time. He was very tiny when I got him but was huge when he passed away. My pet store sells them but they can't keep them in stock becuase they are so popular. Karen.
>
> From: "Holly Nelson" <holly.nelson@...>
> Date: 2006/07/15 Sat AM 08:00:44 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] looking for loaches
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have a large, handsome Weather Loach in my tank, established as a
> peaceful colourful community tank of platies, neon tetras, a lone
> guppy and a corydoras.
>
> I'd like another one or two small weather loaches, preferably the gold
> colour phase. I have heard that these loaches enjoy company of their
> own kind and become very playful.
>
> But the fish retailers I've approached tell me they are having a tough
> time with these loaches, saying they usually die soon after arrival.
>
> Anybody know what's up?
>
>
>
>
>

Adorabelle
http://svenslittlegirl.bravepages.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17537 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Aloha

The clown has been hiding out in his PVC tunnel w/his
new baby clown-mate for last few days, so I'm taking
that as a good sign, since he stopped laying on his
side and stopped hanging in his corner. I just got
fresh live baby brine and he and the baby go nuts when
I put some in tank, but he then retreats back to
tunnel. I do hope that means progress, but he still
doesn't swim around like he used to. Maybe it takes
time, or maybe he wants the bigger tank?

Oddly, this morning one of my 2 plecos was dead and
floating at top of tank w/my 1 snail stuck to him. Do
snails feast on dead plecos? I've had no problems
w/the 2 plecos since I got them maybe 6 mos ago and
don't understand what could have caused this. I still
have to do the water testing - maybe that had
something to do w/it.

Cinde, Hawaii

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17538 From: Leslie Hennis Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
> Maybe it takes time, or maybe he wants the bigger tank?

I would give him time. We have four clowns together and got them all
separately. They love to play together and "clown" around. It's very
fish cute. We had one that had ick and it took several months before he
was keeping up with the others. Clowns are social so I don't think the
bigger one would have problems with the baby.


>
> Oddly, this morning one of my 2 plecos was dead and
> floating at top of tank w/my 1 snail stuck to him. Do
> snails feast on dead plecos?

Snails eat everything. Many people want to get rid of snails but I
encourage them to a point. They make a good clean up crew.

As for testing. Try to get that done soon. I've noticed you have had a
lot of trouble lately. I test at least once a week and if anything seems
weird or off, I do it immediately. I also test the day after a water
change just to make sure everything is okay. Our tap water comes out of
the faucet off the high Ph testers but for some reason comes more in line
after a day. It might be helpful to you to test your tap as well as your
tanks so you know what you are working with. Our water management is
never consistent in treatment of the water.

Les
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17539 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Elephant nose & whiptail catfish
I went to the coolest fish store today, it was an hour away but well
worth it! They had a 6" elephant nose for $12.99 which I thought was
great considering some online prices I've seen. Plus they had a
farlowella catfish that is just cool. It's like having a walking stick
bug in your fish tank.
So I bought the elephant nose & the catfish plus a dwarf gourami
(already have a flame gourami so we shall see, so far it's not good).
My tank looks pretty exotic.

Then I went to another fish store in that area and found baby angelfish
w/ less than dime size bodies and finnage 5 times their body size. I am
hoping that one of them turns out to be a smokey leopard veil as that's
what he looks like now but it's still hard to tell. Either way the fins
are very long so I'm excited. I have all four of them in a 10 gal
quarantine, their tank conditions were awful & they are pooping white.
ewww... I will feed them dirt textured pepso plus add jungle parasite
guard. Then we'll see how they are. Hopefully well as they are truly
gorgeous.

Just had to share. I'll be doing some more reading on the elephant nose
as it looks like he will be a character and joy to keep if I can manage
him. I read one article that said to do salt w/ him.
Any advice on the elephant or the farlowella is welcome. I've never had
either of them.

Yay!

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17540 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose & whiptail catfish
The Farlowella eat zucchini + algae wafers. They are not nocturne as a
pleco, they will eat also in the day, actually, when I want to catch a
Farlowella , I do it between my 2 fingers, they don't run away. And like
that you don't damage the fish; they don't even struggle between the
fingers. They are good also to eat the algae in the windows, the
Farlowella is more beautiful (for me) , more peaceful than the other algae
eater, but you have to put them not with nervous fish.


Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 15 juillet, 2006 19:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Elephant nose & whiptail catfish

I went to the coolest fish store today, it was an hour away but well
worth it! They had a 6" elephant nose for $12.99 which I thought was
great considering some online prices I've seen. Plus they had a
farlowella catfish that is just cool. It's like having a walking stick
bug in your fish tank.
So I bought the elephant nose & the catfish plus a dwarf gourami
(already have a flame gourami so we shall see, so far it's not good).
My tank looks pretty exotic.

Then I went to another fish store in that area and found baby angelfish
w/ less than dime size bodies and finnage 5 times their body size. I am
hoping that one of them turns out to be a smokey leopard veil as that's
what he looks like now but it's still hard to tell. Either way the fins
are very long so I'm excited. I have all four of them in a 10 gal
quarantine, their tank conditions were awful & they are pooping white.
ewww... I will feed them dirt textured pepso plus add jungle parasite
guard. Then we'll see how they are. Hopefully well as they are truly
gorgeous.

Just had to share. I'll be doing some more reading on the elephant nose
as it looks like he will be a character and joy to keep if I can manage
him. I read one article that said to do salt w/ him.
Any advice on the elephant or the farlowella is welcome. I've never had
either of them.

Yay!

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17541 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Candied Parrots
I finally got pictures of my baby candied parrot fish. Im only sending one through, don't want to fill up mailboxs.

Keri


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17542 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Cinde what part of Hawaii are you from? Do you have pictures of your
aquarium?




THANKS,
RAYMOND TREMOR

-------Original Message-------

From: bunnycareshi
Date: 7/15/2006 11:30:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?

Aloha

The clown has been hiding out in his PVC tunnel w/his
new baby clown-mate for last few days, so I'm taking
that as a good sign, since he stopped laying on his
side and stopped hanging in his corner. I just got
fresh live baby brine and he and the baby go nuts when
I put some in tank, but he then retreats back to
tunnel. I do hope that means progress, but he still
doesn't swim around like he used to. Maybe it takes
time, or maybe he wants the bigger tank?

Oddly, this morning one of my 2 plecos was dead and
floating at top of tank w/my 1 snail stuck to him. Do
snails feast on dead plecos? I've had no problems
w/the 2 plecos since I got them maybe 6 mos ago and
don't understand what could have caused this. I still
have to do the water testing - maybe that had
something to do w/it.

Cinde, Hawaii

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17543 From: wantvws Date: 7/15/2006
Subject: Protein skimmer question....
Hi...I'm STILL setting up a 210 gallon fish only marine aquarium and
have a protein skimmer question. I'm getting ready to order a Coralife
Super Skimmer Needle Wheel Protein Skimmer, and the description says
it can either be hang-on or in-sump set up. Does the in-sump setup
also mean it can be free standing under the tank with my canister
filters? It looks like that with some plumbing modifications it could
be, but I do not know.
Here is the web address if anyone is interested.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13924&N=2004+113843+113771&more=1
Thanks in advance!!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17544 From: steve Date: 7/16/2006
Subject: just got my first angelfish
i really like angelfish but my most favorite angel as far as
dwarfangels is the keyhole angelfish picked 1 up at petco for 20 bucks
he is very shy i think he can see me as soon as i walk in the room he
hurries up and swims under the liverock but besides that he seems to
be eating ok he pokes his head out to grab some food cause he knows i
am around i just hope he comes out more often i know that he does come
out though when i am not around cause i can see him from the other room
i only had him for 2 days now maybe in a couple days he will be more
comfortable too also in the tank with him is 2 percula clowns tank
raised, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, 2 green chromis, and 1 royal
gramma the clowns, damsels and gramma were kept in a 55 gallon tank
until i updated it a few months ago to a 90 gallon tank but the 55
gallon tank is now my freshwater tank which i use to have the
freshwater in a 29 gallon tank now i just have the 29 gallon tank
laying around not being used who know maybe 1 day i will put fish back
in it but 2 tanks is enough for me for now anyway
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17545 From: akdsl1 Date: 7/16/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
I don't agree, I have had one marbled angle (2+ years), 7 tiger barbs
(2+ years), 5 giant danels (2+ years), 1 pink gourami (3 months) and a
chocolot pleco (6 months already betting BIG) and they are thriving in
light salt water. Aquarium is 120 gallon glass, PH 7.2, Ammonna 0,
Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10 - 20 PPM. Water temp. 77 - 78 Degrees. I put in
what the manufacure says to use in water cycles. I think it is 1
tablespoon per ten gallons.

Oh and hi, my first name is Dave, been reading this group for about a
year, this is my first post and keeping fish for two years now.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Hydrometer, ????, you don't put salt with pleco and ghost YOU
WILL KILL
> THEM , they like soft and acid water. It's not an hydrometer you
need, it's
> a test kit to check the KH and GH , test your water, put peat moss
instead
> to make it more acid if it's to alkaline and put the molly in an
other tank
> with salt for them , they like hard water. I will suggest also a
good but
> simple book on chemistry of water.
>
> Sorry Karen if I look direct, but it's important than every
aquarist make
> some reading on the need of their fish. I don't know what is " Doc
> Wellfishes aquarium salt" because I have only acid water fish, and I
will
> never put salt, exept in some hospital tank for treat some diseases,
but be
> aware, the ghost do not tolerate salt. It's question of osmoses (
all cell
> of any cellular animal (bacteria to human) need a good balance of
> salt....... I stop here for now )
>
> Gerard
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17546 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/16/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better & better!
Aloha

Thank you Les and Raymond. Raymond, I've lived in Honolulu for 32
yrs but am originally from West Los Angeles. No, I don't have pics
of my aquarium though I could take one w/my cell camera, but it's
only a 10gal and not very exciting. Les, you're right about needing
to do the testing asap.

The adult clown is definitely getting better. He's out of his PVC
tunnel and getting really excited like he usually does when he knows
it's feeding time. He dives for the live brine like he used to, and
it almost appeared as though he was "showing off" his
floating-on-side trick to the younger one. He still doesn't do
his "dolphin leaps" but he's definitely better.

Cinde, Hawaii

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rei - Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@...> wrote:
>
> Cinde what part of Hawaii are you from? Do you have pictures of
your
> aquarium?
>
> THANKS,
> RAYMOND TREMOR
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17547 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/16/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
Yes. My fish are thriving. That's the thing. 1 marbled angel, 3 white
mollies, 1 female betta, 1 pleco, 1 pictus catfish, and 1 ghost knifefish.
The temp is a steady 79* degrees, and all my water perimeters are perfect.
Yesterday though, I lost my Red Oscar. He was in my 29 gallon that had no
salt. Perimeters were perfect. Temp 79*. he was at the bottom of the tank
breathing hard. No visible signs of infection or parasites. I could only gather
that it was oxygen starvation. So I added another air stone to give it a boost.
I already had a small bubble maker in it, but, it was mild.
The next morning, he was dead. I was almost in tears. I really liked him. he
was like my puppy.
A few days before, I had lost 1 of my three black mollies. I had a problem
before with them when I first started fish keeping. The black mollies died, but
my whites ones thrived. Its puzzling.
Now, as far as I can see, my 3 white mollies and my 2 blacks are thriving in
my 90 that has the salt.
I have read that Mollies do thrive in water that has salt content. they have
even been known to survive in salt water.
I have also solved the problem with my 2 fighting angels. I separated them.
That's my scoop. I am puzzled about the 2 deaths. Perhaps, maybe, if I had
added salt, they would have thrived. But, that's just a guess.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17548 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
One of the major aquarium hobby magazines had an article about salt for
freshwater fish recently, they reviewed several freshwater fish that people
use salt with. Their conclusion was that salt should be used for brackish
fish (like mollies), but most freshwater fish do better (just a little)
without salt in fresh water. Salt has it's uses for medicating ick, etc.







_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 1:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: salt in freshwater



Yes. My fish are thriving. That's the thing. 1 marbled angel, 3 white
mollies, 1 female betta, 1 pleco, 1 pictus catfish, and 1 ghost knifefish.
The temp is a steady 79* degrees, and all my water perimeters are perfect.
Yesterday though, I lost my Red Oscar. He was in my 29 gallon that had no
salt. Perimeters were perfect. Temp 79*. he was at the bottom of the tank
breathing hard. No visible signs of infection or parasites. I could only
gather
that it was oxygen starvation. So I added another air stone to give it a
boost.
I already had a small bubble maker in it, but, it was mild.
The next morning, he was dead. I was almost in tears. I really liked him. he

was like my puppy.
A few days before, I had lost 1 of my three black mollies. I had a problem
before with them when I first started fish keeping. The black mollies died,
but
my whites ones thrived. Its puzzling.
Now, as far as I can see, my 3 white mollies and my 2 blacks are thriving in

my 90 that has the salt.
I have read that Mollies do thrive in water that has salt content. they have

even been known to survive in salt water.
I have also solved the problem with my 2 fighting angels. I separated them.
That's my scoop. I am puzzled about the 2 deaths. Perhaps, maybe, if I had
added salt, they would have thrived. But, that's just a guess.
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17549 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
I use salt only:
When introducing new fish or washing the tank, so that stress levels are reduced (the effect of salt on water).
When there is a small disease such as ich.
When i buy brackish fish and put them into a species brackish tanks not in a community. (dont throw salt or make the tank for brackish conditions when you have a mixture of brackish fish and freshwater fish especially if you keep tetras and other salt haters.)

Nigel

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
One of the major aquarium hobby magazines had an article about salt for
freshwater fish recently, they reviewed several freshwater fish that people
use salt with. Their conclusion was that salt should be used for brackish
fish (like mollies), but most freshwater fish do better (just a little)
without salt in fresh water. Salt has it's uses for medicating ick, etc.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 1:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: salt in freshwater

Yes. My fish are thriving. That's the thing. 1 marbled angel, 3 white
mollies, 1 female betta, 1 pleco, 1 pictus catfish, and 1 ghost knifefish.
The temp is a steady 79* degrees, and all my water perimeters are perfect.
Yesterday though, I lost my Red Oscar. He was in my 29 gallon that had no
salt. Perimeters were perfect. Temp 79*. he was at the bottom of the tank
breathing hard. No visible signs of infection or parasites. I could only
gather
that it was oxygen starvation. So I added another air stone to give it a
boost.
I already had a small bubble maker in it, but, it was mild.
The next morning, he was dead. I was almost in tears. I really liked him. he

was like my puppy.
A few days before, I had lost 1 of my three black mollies. I had a problem
before with them when I first started fish keeping. The black mollies died,
but
my whites ones thrived. Its puzzling.
Now, as far as I can see, my 3 white mollies and my 2 blacks are thriving in

my 90 that has the salt.
I have read that Mollies do thrive in water that has salt content. they have

even been known to survive in salt water.
I have also solved the problem with my 2 fighting angels. I separated them.
That's my scoop. I am puzzled about the 2 deaths. Perhaps, maybe, if I had
added salt, they would have thrived. But, that's just a guess.
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17550 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose & farlowella.. :(
Thank you.=)

Unfortunately the farlowella catfish died last night. He wasn't well
since the day we brought him home. Either he was already ill or the
transport home did something to him. But he wasn't right from the get
go. I will be replacing him since I don't think it was my doing that he
passed away. Hopefully the next one will be a success. I also think I
will get two this time.

~Leslie



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17551 From: yan_ederson13 Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: i want my fish thrive back afain
Does anybodt know any vitamins,hormons or anything like this that
could help my carribean fish revive their colours...I know that they
are probably ill.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17552 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
What kind of fish? Saltwater? Freshwater? What are they suffering
from? More information is needed before we can help you

> Does anybodt know any vitamins,hormons or anything like this that
> could help my carribean fish revive their colours...I know that they
> are probably ill.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17553 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose & farlowella.. :(
Like plecos, you need to examine _Farlowella_ spp. And _Sturisoma_ spp. For
hollow belly and sunken eyes. You may bring one back from a sunken belly by
feeding well, but if the eyes have started to sink, the fish is on its way
to that great aquarium in the sky.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 10:58 AM
To: 'Tienie de Coning'; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Elephant nose & farlowella.. :(

Thank you.=)

Unfortunately the farlowella catfish died last night. He wasn't well
since the day we brought him home. Either he was already ill or the
transport home did something to him. But he wasn't right from the get
go. I will be replacing him since I don't think it was my doing that he
passed away. Hopefully the next one will be a success. I also think I
will get two this time.

~Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17554 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/17/2006
Subject: White worm dancing in my tank
I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual; and
as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and normal
w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white wormy
thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a hair.
It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some driftwood so
I lost sight.
Worm? Parasite?

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17555 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
hi cynthia and everyone,

why do resolve for non-natural ways to revive back your fish, all you need actually is a little research on your present diet you give your fish and what you can add more for then to bring out there natural colour. I haven't use water conditioner chemicals or any other thing since a long time, all you need is a bit of research on the diet that your fish like and most of all you do some research on food which contain those vitamins. For example Tomatoes and melons are a great source to restore pigmentation of fish, lettuce and peas help alot in the digestive tracts of the fish as well as other vegetables, Bloodworms gives a great boost up in fish metabolism and energy content.
PAY ATTENTION, NOT ALL FISH HAVE THE SAME DIET DO BE VERY CAREFUL, if you feed cichlids with alot of bloodworms you might experince malawi bloat etc so what might be good for a species might be devastating for another!!

Nigel


cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
What kind of fish? Saltwater? Freshwater? What are they suffering
from? More information is needed before we can help you

> Does anybodt know any vitamins,hormons or anything like this that
> could help my carribean fish revive their colours...I know that they
> are probably ill.
>






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17556 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
ermm i dont think anyone has so good eyes to see parasites they are normally seen under a microscope!!! (no offense regarding the sight issue) i actually cannot tell you what it is there are what are called white worms but normally they dont survive in freeze conditions becuase i have some frozen myself. Did you add new plants in your tank recently maybe he was caught with it? was it moving literally tipo like a living worm or just was dragged along by the current??

Nigel

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual; and
as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and normal
w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white wormy
thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a hair.
It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some driftwood so
I lost sight.
Worm? Parasite?

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17557 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
Good points, nigel :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17558 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
A larvae of some sort, but likely a new hatche snail or something like
that. Skeeters will sometimes lay their young in the tanks...fish
love ;em
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17559 From: Regina Haynes Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
Leslie,

I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away. However, I still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless. I'd still like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.

Regina Haynes

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual; and
as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and normal
w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white wormy
thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a hair.
It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some driftwood so
I lost sight.
Worm? Parasite?

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17560 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my aquarium,
the fish like them.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Regina Haynes
Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank

Leslie,

I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away. However, I
still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless. I'd still
like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.

Regina Haynes

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
and
as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and normal
w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white wormy
thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a hair.
It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some driftwood so
I lost sight.
Worm? Parasite?

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Groups are talking. We’re listening. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo!
Groups.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17561 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
That would make sense. This tank is near a window & when a fly gets in
the house, this window is the first place it goes.
I don't have any live plants right now (but I'm about to buy a light
fixture of 110watts that will allow me to!), so I don't think it's
anything that came in attached to something else. Unless it was
attached to the elephant nose or the farlowella.

Can I have a mystery snail in this tank? I know I can't have one in my
cichlid tank but what about a community tank? It's housing dwarf
gouramis, a tetra, the elephant nose, cory cats & angels.

Thanks,
Leslie


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank



They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my
aquarium,
the fish like them.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Regina Haynes
Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank

Leslie,

I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away. However, I
still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless. I'd
still
like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.

Regina Haynes

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net>
net> wrote:
I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
and
as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and normal
w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white wormy
thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a hair.
It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some driftwood so
I lost sight.
Worm? Parasite?

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17562 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
Nigel I think you confuse the parasites and the bacteria, a parasites is an
organism which lives on or in a different organism, leech are parasites and
no need for a microscopes. In the human you have the flat worm who can reach
many feet longs. Usually you see parasites with the eyes or a 20x
binocular




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Nigel Chetcuti
Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 03:19
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank

ermm i dont think anyone has so good eyes to see parasites they are normally
seen under a microscope!!! (no offense regarding the sight issue) i actually
.............
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17563 From: snerticus Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Leslie:

A little while back I wrote to Regina (I think) and discussed what
the white string-like
worms probably are - of course, since I can't positively identify
them, I can't be 100% sure. They are definitely NOT fly larvae or
mosquito larvae. Mosquito larvae are not white and do not look like
a hair, they are shorter and usually a brownish color. I'm sure you
can find either freeze dried or frozen larvae to compare. Almost all
fly larvae look like maggots (because they are) and from what I've
seen and read, do not live in water. Even fungus gnat larvae live
in moist, but not submerged, environments.

The only two things this could be are planaria or the unidentified
worms that sometimes come in with plant or fish from the LFS or
another tank. They seem to be quite harmless and live off of
decaying vegetation and possibly decaying animal matter - like fish
food or frozed food. I have these white worms in my tanks as well as
the planaria (which are smaller and not really hair-like) and they
both do NOT harm my fish. They do tend to get out of hand when there
is excess food or waste, but even then, they just do more of a "clean
up" job. If you can find my post about two months ago (I think)
there may be more info in there for you. I wouldn't worry about them
unless they start to multiply to extreme numbers. I myself would
like to identify them and see if they could possibly be cultured as a
fish food for small fish. I've seen my Dwarf Gourami and Dwarf Platy
both eat the worms. They leave the planaria alone. Like I said in
my previous related post, there are obviously worms and planaria that
are parasitic and potentially dangerous to fish... however these
species do not seem to be in that category. Especially since I've
seen them for years in my various freshwater tanks and no harm has
come to any inhabitants due to their presence.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> That would make sense. This tank is near a window & when a fly
gets in
> the house, this window is the first place it goes.
> I don't have any live plants right now (but I'm about to buy a light
> fixture of 110watts that will allow me to!), so I don't think it's
> anything that came in attached to something else. Unless it was
> attached to the elephant nose or the farlowella.
>
> Can I have a mystery snail in this tank? I know I can't have one
in my
> cichlid tank but what about a community tank? It's housing dwarf
> gouramis, a tetra, the elephant nose, cory cats & angels.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:18 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
>
>
> They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my
> aquarium,
> the fish like them.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Regina Haynes
> Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
> Leslie,
>
> I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
> treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away.
However, I
> still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless.
I'd
> still
> like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.
>
> Regina Haynes
>
> Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%
40cebridge.net>
> net> wrote:
> I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
> and
> as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and
normal
> w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
> they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white
wormy
> thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a
hair.
> It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some
driftwood so
> I lost sight.
> Worm? Parasite?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Groups are talking. We're listening. Check out the handy changes to
> Yahoo!
> Groups.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17564 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Will Clowns eat mealworms and peas?
Aloha

I'm reading on some of the aquatic w/sites that Clown
Loaches will eat mealworms and frozen peas. Is that
true? My previously lethargic one contines to thrive,
BTW, and is continuing to show off his swimming
"tricks."

Cinde, Hawaii

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17565 From: Regina Haynes Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
I think you're right snerticus, (I don't know your name), that it must come from the food, because that's the only thing that's the same besides the fish between my new and old tank. They're not planaria, I checked that out, they don't look the same.
The next time I see one of these critters in my aquarium I think I'll try to catch one (if my Oscar doesn't try to bite my hand off, he tries that when I feed him) and take it somewhere to be identified. I've noticed since I mentioned these, there have been several posts about them. Leslie's description of them dancing is perfect!!

Regina

snerticus <Snerticus@...> wrote:
Leslie:

A little while back I wrote to Regina (I think) and discussed what
the white string-like
worms probably are - of course, since I can't positively identify
them, I can't be 100% sure. They are definitely NOT fly larvae or
mosquito larvae. Mosquito larvae are not white and do not look like
a hair, they are shorter and usually a brownish color. I'm sure you
can find either freeze dried or frozen larvae to compare. Almost all
fly larvae look like maggots (because they are) and from what I've
seen and read, do not live in water. Even fungus gnat larvae live
in moist, but not submerged, environments.

The only two things this could be are planaria or the unidentified
worms that sometimes come in with plant or fish from the LFS or
another tank. They seem to be quite harmless and live off of
decaying vegetation and possibly decaying animal matter - like fish
food or frozed food. I have these white worms in my tanks as well as
the planaria (which are smaller and not really hair-like) and they
both do NOT harm my fish. They do tend to get out of hand when there
is excess food or waste, but even then, they just do more of a "clean
up" job. If you can find my post about two months ago (I think)
there may be more info in there for you. I wouldn't worry about them
unless they start to multiply to extreme numbers. I myself would
like to identify them and see if they could possibly be cultured as a
fish food for small fish. I've seen my Dwarf Gourami and Dwarf Platy
both eat the worms. They leave the planaria alone. Like I said in
my previous related post, there are obviously worms and planaria that
are parasitic and potentially dangerous to fish... however these
species do not seem to be in that category. Especially since I've
seen them for years in my various freshwater tanks and no harm has
come to any inhabitants due to their presence.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> That would make sense. This tank is near a window & when a fly
gets in
> the house, this window is the first place it goes.
> I don't have any live plants right now (but I'm about to buy a light
> fixture of 110watts that will allow me to!), so I don't think it's
> anything that came in attached to something else. Unless it was
> attached to the elephant nose or the farlowella.
>
> Can I have a mystery snail in this tank? I know I can't have one
in my
> cichlid tank but what about a community tank? It's housing dwarf
> gouramis, a tetra, the elephant nose, cory cats & angels.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:18 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
>
>
> They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my
> aquarium,
> the fish like them.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Regina Haynes
> Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
> Leslie,
>
> I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
> treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away.
However, I
> still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless.
I'd
> still
> like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.
>
> Regina Haynes
>
> Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%
40cebridge.net>
> net> wrote:
> I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
> and
> as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and
normal
> w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
> they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white
wormy
> thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a
hair.
> It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some
driftwood so
> I lost sight.
> Worm? Parasite?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Groups are talking. We're listening. Check out the handy changes to
> Yahoo!
> Groups.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW



"Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17566 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
I'll go do a search and check out the previous posts, thanks!
So do you think I can have a mystery in here?

L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of snerticus
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 1:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question



Leslie:

A little while back I wrote to Regina (I think) and discussed what
the white string-like
worms probably are - of course, since I can't positively identify
them, I can't be 100% sure. They are definitely NOT fly larvae or
mosquito larvae. Mosquito larvae are not white and do not look like
a hair, they are shorter and usually a brownish color. I'm sure you
can find either freeze dried or frozen larvae to compare. Almost all
fly larvae look like maggots (because they are) and from what I've
seen and read, do not live in water. Even fungus gnat larvae live
in moist, but not submerged, environments.

The only two things this could be are planaria or the unidentified
worms that sometimes come in with plant or fish from the LFS or
another tank. They seem to be quite harmless and live off of
decaying vegetation and possibly decaying animal matter - like fish
food or frozed food. I have these white worms in my tanks as well as
the planaria (which are smaller and not really hair-like) and they
both do NOT harm my fish. They do tend to get out of hand when there
is excess food or waste, but even then, they just do more of a "clean
up" job. If you can find my post about two months ago (I think)
there may be more info in there for you. I wouldn't worry about them
unless they start to multiply to extreme numbers. I myself would
like to identify them and see if they could possibly be cultured as a
fish food for small fish. I've seen my Dwarf Gourami and Dwarf Platy
both eat the worms. They leave the planaria alone. Like I said in
my previous related post, there are obviously worms and planaria that
are parasitic and potentially dangerous to fish... however these
species do not seem to be in that category. Especially since I've
seen them for years in my various freshwater tanks and no harm has
come to any inhabitants due to their presence.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> That would make sense. This tank is near a window & when a fly
gets in
> the house, this window is the first place it goes.
> I don't have any live plants right now (but I'm about to buy a light
> fixture of 110watts that will allow me to!), so I don't think it's
> anything that came in attached to something else. Unless it was
> attached to the elephant nose or the farlowella.
>
> Can I have a mystery snail in this tank? I know I can't have one
in my
> cichlid tank but what about a community tank? It's housing dwarf
> gouramis, a tetra, the elephant nose, cory cats & angels.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:18 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
>
>
> They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my
> aquarium,
> the fish like them.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Regina Haynes
> Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
> Leslie,
>
> I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
> treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away.
However, I
> still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless.
I'd
> still
> like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.
>
> Regina Haynes
>
> Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%
40cebridge.net>
> net> wrote:
> I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
> and
> as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and
normal
> w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
> they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white
wormy
> thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a
hair.
> It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some
driftwood so
> I lost sight.
> Worm? Parasite?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Groups are talking. We're listening. Check out the handy changes to
> Yahoo!
> Groups.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17567 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: salt in freshwater
ok. Thank you so much for the info. I am interested in brackish fish
keeping. I am going to do some studying for awhile before I go ahead with it.
karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17568 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Could they be hydra?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Regina Haynes
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 4:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question



I think you're right snerticus, (I don't know your name), that it must come
from the food, because that's the only thing that's the same besides the
fish between my new and old tank. They're not planaria, I checked that out,
they don't look the same.
The next time I see one of these critters in my aquarium I think I'll try to
catch one (if my Oscar doesn't try to bite my hand off, he tries that when I
feed him) and take it somewhere to be identified. I've noticed since I
mentioned these, there have been several posts about them. Leslie's
description of them dancing is perfect!!

Regina

snerticus <Snerticus@juno. <mailto:Snerticus%40juno.com> com> wrote:
Leslie:

A little while back I wrote to Regina (I think) and discussed what
the white string-like
worms probably are - of course, since I can't positively identify
them, I can't be 100% sure. They are definitely NOT fly larvae or
mosquito larvae. Mosquito larvae are not white and do not look like
a hair, they are shorter and usually a brownish color. I'm sure you
can find either freeze dried or frozen larvae to compare. Almost all
fly larvae look like maggots (because they are) and from what I've
seen and read, do not live in water. Even fungus gnat larvae live
in moist, but not submerged, environments.

The only two things this could be are planaria or the unidentified
worms that sometimes come in with plant or fish from the LFS or
another tank. They seem to be quite harmless and live off of
decaying vegetation and possibly decaying animal matter - like fish
food or frozed food. I have these white worms in my tanks as well as
the planaria (which are smaller and not really hair-like) and they
both do NOT harm my fish. They do tend to get out of hand when there
is excess food or waste, but even then, they just do more of a "clean
up" job. If you can find my post about two months ago (I think)
there may be more info in there for you. I wouldn't worry about them
unless they start to multiply to extreme numbers. I myself would
like to identify them and see if they could possibly be cultured as a
fish food for small fish. I've seen my Dwarf Gourami and Dwarf Platy
both eat the worms. They leave the planaria alone. Like I said in
my previous related post, there are obviously worms and planaria that
are parasitic and potentially dangerous to fish... however these
species do not seem to be in that category. Especially since I've
seen them for years in my various freshwater tanks and no harm has
come to any inhabitants due to their presence.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> That would make sense. This tank is near a window & when a fly
gets in
> the house, this window is the first place it goes.
> I don't have any live plants right now (but I'm about to buy a light
> fixture of 110watts that will allow me to!), so I don't think it's
> anything that came in attached to something else. Unless it was
> attached to the elephant nose or the farlowella.
>
> Can I have a mystery snail in this tank? I know I can't have one
in my
> cichlid tank but what about a community tank? It's housing dwarf
> gouramis, a tetra, the elephant nose, cory cats & angels.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:18 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
>
>
> They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my
> aquarium,
> the fish like them.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Regina Haynes
> Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
> Leslie,
>
> I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
> treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away.
However, I
> still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless.
I'd
> still
> like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.
>
> Regina Haynes
>
> Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%
40cebridge.net>
> net> wrote:
> I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
> and
> as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and
normal
> w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
> they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white
wormy
> thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a
hair.
> It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some
driftwood so
> I lost sight.
> Worm? Parasite?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Groups are talking. We're listening. Check out the handy changes to
> Yahoo!
> Groups.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW



"Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is
for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
distribution is prohibited. If you have received this communication in
error, please notify the sender immediately by replying to the message and
deleting it from your computer."




---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17569 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: In tank water quality monitors
I saw some little water quality strips you put in your tanks, that
constantly monitor your tank...and I was wondering if they are worth
getting? Or if they don't work as advertised?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17570 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
A Farlowella fry look like a small aluminium foil who flick in the water
you need a binocular to see if they are a fry, with a circle part with a
tail if I can catch one than the Silver have not eat I will take a picture
at 20X to show you

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 18:35
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question

Could they be hydra?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Regina Haynes
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 4:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question



I think you're right snerticus, (I don't know your name), that it must come
from the food, because that's the only thing that's the same besides the
fish between my new and old tank. They're not planaria, I checked that out,
they don't look the same.
The next time I see one of these critters in my aquarium I think I'll try to
catch one (if my Oscar doesn't try to bite my hand off, he tries that when I
feed him) and take it somewhere to be identified. I've noticed since I
mentioned these, there have been several posts about them. Leslie's
description of them dancing is perfect!!

Regina

snerticus <Snerticus@juno. <mailto:Snerticus%40juno.com> com> wrote:
Leslie:

A little while back I wrote to Regina (I think) and discussed what
the white string-like
worms probably are - of course, since I can't positively identify
them, I can't be 100% sure. They are definitely NOT fly larvae or
mosquito larvae. Mosquito larvae are not white and do not look like
a hair, they are shorter and usually a brownish color. I'm sure you
can find either freeze dried or frozen larvae to compare. Almost all
fly larvae look like maggots (because they are) and from what I've
seen and read, do not live in water. Even fungus gnat larvae live
in moist, but not submerged, environments.

The only two things this could be are planaria or the unidentified
worms that sometimes come in with plant or fish from the LFS or
another tank. They seem to be quite harmless and live off of
decaying vegetation and possibly decaying animal matter - like fish
food or frozed food. I have these white worms in my tanks as well as
the planaria (which are smaller and not really hair-like) and they
both do NOT harm my fish. They do tend to get out of hand when there
is excess food or waste, but even then, they just do more of a "clean
up" job. If you can find my post about two months ago (I think)
there may be more info in there for you. I wouldn't worry about them
unless they start to multiply to extreme numbers. I myself would
like to identify them and see if they could possibly be cultured as a
fish food for small fish. I've seen my Dwarf Gourami and Dwarf Platy
both eat the worms. They leave the planaria alone. Like I said in
my previous related post, there are obviously worms and planaria that
are parasitic and potentially dangerous to fish... however these
species do not seem to be in that category. Especially since I've
seen them for years in my various freshwater tanks and no harm has
come to any inhabitants due to their presence.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> That would make sense. This tank is near a window & when a fly
gets in
> the house, this window is the first place it goes.
> I don't have any live plants right now (but I'm about to buy a light
> fixture of 110watts that will allow me to!), so I don't think it's
> anything that came in attached to something else. Unless it was
> attached to the elephant nose or the farlowella.
>
> Can I have a mystery snail in this tank? I know I can't have one
in my
> cichlid tank but what about a community tank? It's housing dwarf
> gouramis, a tetra, the elephant nose, cory cats & angels.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:18 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
>
>
> They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my
> aquarium,
> the fish like them.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Regina Haynes
> Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
> Leslie,
>
> I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
> treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away.
However, I
> still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless.
I'd
> still
> like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.
>
> Regina Haynes
>
> Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%
40cebridge.net>
> net> wrote:
> I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
> and
> as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and
normal
> w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
> they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white
wormy
> thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a
hair.
> It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some
driftwood so
> I lost sight.
> Worm? Parasite?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Groups are talking. We're listening. Check out the handy changes to
> Yahoo!
> Groups.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW



"Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is
for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
distribution is prohibited. If you have received this communication in
error, please notify the sender immediately by replying to the message and
deleting it from your computer."




---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17571 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Leslie, are you sure they are not Farlowella fries, may be you bring few in
the water bag. I have few who have hatch 2 days ago and they look also
like that. (Unfortunately, the silver dollar in the same tank makes a snack
of them)









-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 08:51
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question

That would make sense. This tank is near a window & when a fly gets in
the house, this window is the first place it goes.
I don't have any live plants right now (but I'm about to buy a light
fixture of 110watts that will allow me to!), so I don't think it's
anything that came in attached to something else. Unless it was
attached to the elephant nose or the farlowella.

Can I have a mystery snail in this tank? I know I can't have one in my
cichlid tank but what about a community tank? It's housing dwarf
gouramis, a tetra, the elephant nose, cory cats & angels.

Thanks,
Leslie


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank



They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my
aquarium,
the fish like them.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Regina Haynes
Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank

Leslie,

I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away. However, I
still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless. I'd
still
like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.

Regina Haynes

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net>
net> wrote:
I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
and
as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and normal
w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white wormy
thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a hair.
It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some driftwood so
I lost sight.
Worm? Parasite?

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
Groups are talking. We’re listening. Check out the handy changes to
Yahoo!
Groups.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17572 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Gerard,
It doesn't sound the same, though that would be cool. =)
This is just long and slender, no irregular shapes at either end.
I would like to see a picture of your farlowella and fry though. Let us
know when you get that site up and going!
~L =)

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 8:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail
Question



.

<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
sgId=17570&stime=1153277447>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17573 From: harry perry Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question/Hydra
Are they stuck to the glass, about 1/4" long and they look like they have tenacles on one end? If so they are hydra. Harmless to adult fish, can and will kill fry. I get them when I feed bbs. Gouramies will eat them.

Harry

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote: Could they be hydra?

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Regina Haynes
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 4:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question

I think you're right snerticus, (I don't know your name), that it must come
from the food, because that's the only thing that's the same besides the
fish between my new and old tank. They're not planaria, I checked that out,
they don't look the same.
The next time I see one of these critters in my aquarium I think I'll try to
catch one (if my Oscar doesn't try to bite my hand off, he tries that when I
feed him) and take it somewhere to be identified. I've noticed since I
mentioned these, there have been several posts about them. Leslie's
description of them dancing is perfect!!

Regina

snerticus <Snerticus@juno. <mailto:Snerticus%40juno.com> com> wrote:
Leslie:

A little while back I wrote to Regina (I think) and discussed what
the white string-like
worms probably are - of course, since I can't positively identify
them, I can't be 100% sure. They are definitely NOT fly larvae or
mosquito larvae. Mosquito larvae are not white and do not look like
a hair, they are shorter and usually a brownish color. I'm sure you
can find either freeze dried or frozen larvae to compare. Almost all
fly larvae look like maggots (because they are) and from what I've
seen and read, do not live in water. Even fungus gnat larvae live
in moist, but not submerged, environments.

The only two things this could be are planaria or the unidentified
worms that sometimes come in with plant or fish from the LFS or
another tank. They seem to be quite harmless and live off of
decaying vegetation and possibly decaying animal matter - like fish
food or frozed food. I have these white worms in my tanks as well as
the planaria (which are smaller and not really hair-like) and they
both do NOT harm my fish. They do tend to get out of hand when there
is excess food or waste, but even then, they just do more of a "clean
up" job. If you can find my post about two months ago (I think)
there may be more info in there for you. I wouldn't worry about them
unless they start to multiply to extreme numbers. I myself would
like to identify them and see if they could possibly be cultured as a
fish food for small fish. I've seen my Dwarf Gourami and Dwarf Platy
both eat the worms. They leave the planaria alone. Like I said in
my previous related post, there are obviously worms and planaria that
are parasitic and potentially dangerous to fish... however these
species do not seem to be in that category. Especially since I've
seen them for years in my various freshwater tanks and no harm has
come to any inhabitants due to their presence.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> That would make sense. This tank is near a window & when a fly
gets in
> the house, this window is the first place it goes.
> I don't have any live plants right now (but I'm about to buy a light
> fixture of 110watts that will allow me to!), so I don't think it's
> anything that came in attached to something else. Unless it was
> attached to the elephant nose or the farlowella.
>
> Can I have a mystery snail in this tank? I know I can't have one
in my
> cichlid tank but what about a community tank? It's housing dwarf
> gouramis, a tetra, the elephant nose, cory cats & angels.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of G�rard Gagnon
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:18 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
>
>
> They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my
> aquarium,
> the fish like them.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Regina Haynes
> Envoy� : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
> � : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
> Leslie,
>
> I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
> treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away.
However, I
> still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless.
I'd
> still
> like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.
>
> Regina Haynes
>
> Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%
40cebridge.net>
> net> wrote:
> I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
> and
> as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and
normal
> w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
> they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white
wormy
> thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a
hair.
> It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some
driftwood so
> I lost sight.
> Worm? Parasite?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Groups are talking. We're listening. Check out the handy changes to
> Yahoo!
> Groups.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><
((((�>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�
((((><���`�.��.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW

"Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is
for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17574 From: Regina Haynes Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Doesn't look like the hydra I've seen pictures of. These things don't have leg like/tenticles. They are string/hair size, from 1/4 to 1/2 inch long.

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote: Could they be hydra?

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Regina Haynes
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 4:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question

I think you're right snerticus, (I don't know your name), that it must come
from the food, because that's the only thing that's the same besides the
fish between my new and old tank. They're not planaria, I checked that out,
they don't look the same.
The next time I see one of these critters in my aquarium I think I'll try to
catch one (if my Oscar doesn't try to bite my hand off, he tries that when I
feed him) and take it somewhere to be identified. I've noticed since I
mentioned these, there have been several posts about them. Leslie's
description of them dancing is perfect!!

Regina

snerticus <Snerticus@juno. <mailto:Snerticus%40juno.com> com> wrote:
Leslie:

A little while back I wrote to Regina (I think) and discussed what
the white string-like
worms probably are - of course, since I can't positively identify
them, I can't be 100% sure. They are definitely NOT fly larvae or
mosquito larvae. Mosquito larvae are not white and do not look like
a hair, they are shorter and usually a brownish color. I'm sure you
can find either freeze dried or frozen larvae to compare. Almost all
fly larvae look like maggots (because they are) and from what I've
seen and read, do not live in water. Even fungus gnat larvae live
in moist, but not submerged, environments.

The only two things this could be are planaria or the unidentified
worms that sometimes come in with plant or fish from the LFS or
another tank. They seem to be quite harmless and live off of
decaying vegetation and possibly decaying animal matter - like fish
food or frozed food. I have these white worms in my tanks as well as
the planaria (which are smaller and not really hair-like) and they
both do NOT harm my fish. They do tend to get out of hand when there
is excess food or waste, but even then, they just do more of a "clean
up" job. If you can find my post about two months ago (I think)
there may be more info in there for you. I wouldn't worry about them
unless they start to multiply to extreme numbers. I myself would
like to identify them and see if they could possibly be cultured as a
fish food for small fish. I've seen my Dwarf Gourami and Dwarf Platy
both eat the worms. They leave the planaria alone. Like I said in
my previous related post, there are obviously worms and planaria that
are parasitic and potentially dangerous to fish... however these
species do not seem to be in that category. Especially since I've
seen them for years in my various freshwater tanks and no harm has
come to any inhabitants due to their presence.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> That would make sense. This tank is near a window & when a fly
gets in
> the house, this window is the first place it goes.
> I don't have any live plants right now (but I'm about to buy a light
> fixture of 110watts that will allow me to!), so I don't think it's
> anything that came in attached to something else. Unless it was
> attached to the elephant nose or the farlowella.
>
> Can I have a mystery snail in this tank? I know I can't have one
in my
> cichlid tank but what about a community tank? It's housing dwarf
> gouramis, a tetra, the elephant nose, cory cats & angels.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:18 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
>
>
> They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my
> aquarium,
> the fish like them.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Regina Haynes
> Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank
>
> Leslie,
>
> I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
> treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away.
However, I
> still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless.
I'd
> still
> like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.
>
> Regina Haynes
>
> Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%
40cebridge.net>
> net> wrote:
> I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
> and
> as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and
normal
> w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
> they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white
wormy
> thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a
hair.
> It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some
driftwood so
> I lost sight.
> Worm? Parasite?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Groups are talking. We're listening. Check out the handy changes to
> Yahoo!
> Groups.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important
> to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW

"Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is
for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
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Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW



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for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17575 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
One of the most common causes of death in plecos is starvation. Have you
been providing them with enough vegetable matter in the way of algae or
algae flakes, zucchini, squash, etc.? Did he have a hollow looking
belly? Does the remaining one have a hollow belly?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2006 5:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?

Aloha

The clown has been hiding out in his PVC tunnel w/his
new baby clown-mate for last few days, so I'm taking
that as a good sign, since he stopped laying on his
side and stopped hanging in his corner. I just got
fresh live baby brine and he and the baby go nuts when
I put some in tank, but he then retreats back to
tunnel. I do hope that means progress, but he still
doesn't swim around like he used to. Maybe it takes
time, or maybe he wants the bigger tank?

Oddly, this morning one of my 2 plecos was dead and
floating at top of tank w/my 1 snail stuck to him. Do
snails feast on dead plecos? I've had no problems
w/the 2 plecos since I got them maybe 6 mos ago and
don't understand what could have caused this. I still
have to do the water testing - maybe that had
something to do w/it.

Cinde, Hawaii
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17576 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: just getting started
Before you do anything else, read, read, read. If you haven't already,
get yourself a good book. One I recommend is:

-------------------------------------------------------
Baensch Aquarium Atlas, Vol. 1 (New Edition 2004)

Paperback (992 pages)
Released: (in theater: ), published: 11/30/2004
Added: 7/16/2006
Catalog/No.:
Location:
Price: $39.99


Publisher: Mergus Verlag GmbH.
Authors: * Hans A. Baensch
* Rudiger Riehl
EAN: 9783882445183
ISBN: 3882445181



File Listing
Track Listing

Descriptions
Book Description This book is written to fill the gap between the simple
guides, those small books on special topics, and the big books only a
few hobbyists need...and for which fewer have the funds.

It offers mega-doses of information, concentrated so that it is
informative and interesting.

Included in this book are photos of over 600 species of fish and 100
aquatic plants, yet this is not an encyclopedia of fish and plants but a
practical guide on the keeping, care, breeding and adaptation of
aquarium fish and plants.

For both biological and aesthetic reasons, we feel live plants and fish
belong together. It is a World Class Atlas for the dedicated aquarist.

---------------------

This listing is for the paperback, which is more available than the
hardcover.

It is not overly complex, explaining things in a clear language, and it
should be relatively easy to get. There is a very good section on
setting up a tank. It covers plants OK, and there are pictures and
descriptions of fish. Lots of fish.

There are lots of sites on the web, but there are a lot that contain
misinformation. One must learn to be discerning when surfing the web for
information. That comes with experience.

There are lists, like this one. Information is generally pretty good,
especially when given enough information for the members to use in their
answers. If there is misinformation, it is usually sorted out pretty
quickly by other members on the list.

It is too late, since you already have the tank, but I do hope you got
the largest tank you have room and money for. The more water you have,
the more margin of error you have, which is very important for a novice.
You will make mistakes. Even people who have been in the hobby a long
time make mistakes. The difference is that those with the experience can
deal with the mistakes, once apparent, in a suitable manner, and will
notice the error quicker. The novice, on the other hand, may not realize
a mistake until it is too late, or nearly too late to save the affected
residents of the tank. When you realize something is wrong, you will
need to go about finding the solution in a methodical, logical way
rather than freaking out and doing something just to do something.

You will lose fish. There is no doubt about that. We all lose fish. The
only difference between a novice and the "expert" is in the price of the
fish we lose <g>. Don't let a loss shake you. It will happen.

Be sure you understand the nitrogen cycle. You don't need to understand
the formula's but have a grasp of what it is and what it does. You will
need to cycle the tank. I am a fan of the fishless cycle, but you can
also use fish to cycle the tank. Be sure you understand about the three
types of filtration.

Choose your fish with care. I saw that someone mentioned mollies as a
good fish for a novice. They are not, even though they are often pushed
as such. Know your water parameters, and chose fish that are compatible
with the kind of water you have. If you have water of a high pH, go with
fish that like a high pH. If your pH is lower, go with fish that are
comfortable in lower pH situations. This will be a lot easier on you and
the fish than trying to change the water chemistry. Changing the water
chemistry can be done, but it is tricky and can throw you for a loop.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask them.

\\Steve//
"If there are no stupid questions, then what kind of questions do
stupid people ask? Do they get smart just in time to ask questions?"
- Scott Adams


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of beachcuriosity
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 12:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] just getting started

hi everyone. glad to know you're here. i just got my first tank.
but i'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. is this how you felt? any advice
for beginners?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17577 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/18/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
That is a tough question to answer since you do not give us any real
information to go on. Best way to get back the colors is to give them
the conditions they like and need, along with the diet they need. Even
so, some fish do not retain color well in captivity.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of yan_ederson13
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 3:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] i want my fish thrive back afain

Does anybodt know any vitamins,hormons or anything like this that
could help my carribean fish revive their colours...I know that they
are probably ill.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17578 From: Yannis Kouzounias Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
I completely understand what are you talking about. I have just noticed that it`s been 4 days since my fish have started behaving in a dull way-not so lively- and their colours looked as if they ve started fainting. Maybe my idea maybe a dirty glass. Anyway, the sick ones are three simple goldfish-which its origin is carribean according to the salesman-and they are 1 1/5 years old.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17579 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Hagen product not always safe
Hello all I just buy 2 bags of hagen black gravel, when I make the
acid test with vinagar, the gravel start to bubble very actively in
the vinagar. I leave the gravel in water for test the ph rise from 6.8
to 7.6 in one night . I can not beleive a compagny put on the market a
non safe product like this.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17580 From: llrdhsktr Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Steve: How often should a pleco be fed if there is little algae in
the tank? I recently placed a clown pleco in a established tank
with lots of algae and he went to town grazing on the feast and has
cleared just about all of it! I am really impressed with this guy,
but don't know how often to feed him now that the algae is under
control. He's only 1.5 inches long. He stays hidden most of the
day and comes out at night to forage. Giving him vegetables, should
it be cooked or raw? What veggies are OK to give besides zucchini
and squash?

Lester

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> One of the most common causes of death in plecos is starvation.
Have you
> been providing them with enough vegetable matter in the way of
algae or
> algae flakes, zucchini, squash, etc.? Did he have a hollow looking
> belly? Does the remaining one have a hollow belly?
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17581 From: Evita Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Mine actually love raw cucumber. I slice it in round slices and leave the green on and sink it. I got my sinker from the pet shop. It is the aluminum piece that comes around the plants they get. I also do the same for my goldfish. Evita

llrdhsktr <llrdhsktr@...> wrote: Steve: How often should a pleco be fed if there is little algae in
the tank? I recently placed a clown pleco in a established tank
with lots of algae and he went to town grazing on the feast and has
cleared just about all of it! I am really impressed with this guy,
but don't know how often to feed him now that the algae is under
control. He's only 1.5 inches long. He stays hidden most of the
day and comes out at night to forage. Giving him vegetables, should
it be cooked or raw? What veggies are OK to give besides zucchini
and squash?

Lester

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> One of the most common causes of death in plecos is starvation.
Have you
> been providing them with enough vegetable matter in the way of
algae or
> algae flakes, zucchini, squash, etc.? Did he have a hollow looking
> belly? Does the remaining one have a hollow belly?
>
>
> \\Steve//






---------------------------------
See the all-new, redesigned Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17582 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: What plant is this ?
Hello all
I would like to identify a plant, this plant form no root except on
the leaves, where first a small button appear and after root develops,
can someone please ID the plant for me and give me info, here the
link http://www.aqualab.ca/


Thanks, Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17583 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: What plant is this ?
Looks like Java Fern, Lace Windelov to me.

> Hello all
> I would like to identify a plant, this plant form no root except on
> the leaves, where first a small button appear and after root
develops,
> can someone please ID the plant for me and give me info, here the
> link http://www.aqualab.ca/
>
>
> Thanks, Gerard
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17584 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
Well, THAT'S not good! Are you sure it was freshwater aquarium
gravel? Petsmart seems to offer loads of calcium carbonate gravel and
sand which is only good for salt water aquaria and lizard bedding.


> Hello all I just buy 2 bags of hagen black gravel, when I make the
> acid test with vinagar, the gravel start to bubble very actively in
> the vinagar. I leave the gravel in water for test the ph rise from
6.8
> to 7.6 in one night . I can not beleive a compagny put on the market
a
> non safe product like this.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17585 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
I feed mine every day. They also tend to feast on some plants and my
moss balls if I don't feed them enough. Keep an eye on his tummy,
and if it goes flat or concave, it's way too little. Feed them bits
of lettuce, raw veggies, they love it. My pleco used to swim around
with the big circle of squash attached to his face.

> Steve: How often should a pleco be fed if there is little algae in
> the tank? I recently placed a clown pleco in a established tank
> with lots of algae and he went to town grazing on the feast and has
> cleared just about all of it! I am really impressed with this guy,
> but don't know how often to feed him now that the algae is under
> control. He's only 1.5 inches long. He stays hidden most of the
> day and comes out at night to forage. Giving him vegetables,
should
> it be cooked or raw? What veggies are OK to give besides zucchini
> and squash?
>
> Lester
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > One of the most common causes of death in plecos is starvation.
> Have you
> > been providing them with enough vegetable matter in the way of
> algae or
> > algae flakes, zucchini, squash, etc.? Did he have a hollow looking
> > belly? Does the remaining one have a hollow belly?
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17586 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
It would also be great for African Rift Lake cichlids!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Hagen product not always safe



Well, THAT'S not good! Are you sure it was freshwater aquarium
gravel? Petsmart seems to offer loads of calcium carbonate gravel and
sand which is only good for salt water aquaria and lizard bedding.

> Hello all I just buy 2 bags of hagen black gravel, when I make the
> acid test with vinagar, the gravel start to bubble very actively in
> the vinagar. I leave the gravel in water for test the ph rise from
6.8
> to 7.6 in one night . I can not beleive a compagny put on the market
a
> non safe product like this.
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17587 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
They sell it as freshwater gravel it's definitely lime stone, they probably
just color it, easy the lime stone absorb very well the color, it's the
third Hagen product I got problem this month ( a power head who shred my
beta fins, a plant fertilizer with to much phosphate it's make me very worry
about the rest of their line , where is the people who make the quality
control of their product, they show us beautiful laboratory in their
flyer...... But it's ok I will use it in winter on the ice for not
skid...since the local LFS told me he can not get back open bag, ( of
course is sale are low, can not afford good customer policy ) next time I
bring a bottle of vinegar to test before pay :)

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de cynthia brennemann
Envoyé : 19 juillet, 2006 14:36
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Hagen product not always safe

Well, THAT'S not good! Are you sure it was freshwater aquarium
gravel? Petsmart seems to offer loads of calcium carbonate gravel and
sand which is only good for salt water aquaria and lizard bedding.


> Hello all I just buy 2 bags of hagen black gravel, when I make the
> acid test with vinagar, the gravel start to bubble very actively in
> the vinagar. I leave the gravel in water for test the ph rise from
6.8
> to 7.6 in one night . I can not beleive a compagny put on the market
a
> non safe product like this.
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17588 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
Yes very good for the African Cichlids, but I'm a South America fish
collector, so I will use it in winter for put on ice outside to not skid,
or may be in my plant nursery aquarium



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 19 juillet, 2006 14:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Hagen product not always safe

It would also be great for African Rift Lake cichlids!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Hagen product not always safe



Well, THAT'S not good! Are you sure it was freshwater aquarium
gravel? Petsmart seems to offer loads of calcium carbonate gravel and
sand which is only good for salt water aquaria and lizard bedding.

> Hello all I just buy 2 bags of hagen black gravel, when I make the
> acid test with vinagar, the gravel start to bubble very actively in
> the vinagar. I leave the gravel in water for test the ph rise from
6.8
> to 7.6 in one night . I can not beleive a compagny put on the market
a
> non safe product like this.
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17589 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: What plant is this ?
May be my picture is not good but definitively not a Windelov, but it firm
leave like a Java (Microsorum pteropus) , just not as long

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de cynthia brennemann
Envoyé : 19 juillet, 2006 14:40
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: What plant is this ?

Looks like Java Fern, Lace Windelov to me.

> Hello all
> I would like to identify a plant, this plant form no root except on
> the leaves, where first a small button appear and after root
develops,
> can someone please ID the plant for me and give me info, here the
> link http://www.aqualab.ca/
>
>
> Thanks, Gerard
>







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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17590 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
Aloha

Thanks, Cynthia and Steve. I just minced some fresh Romaine and put
it in tank for the first time - didn't even know they needed fresh
veggies. There's no algae in tank, so myabe he is a little underfed.
I had only one other pleco that died, so maybe that's what happened.

I'm a little unclear about watching for "flat stomach" because isn't
it supposed to be flat as they attach to the side of tank?
I'd love to see a pic of your pleco w/squash on its face, Cynthia.

Cinde, Hawaii

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> I feed mine every day. They also tend to feast on some plants and
my
> moss balls if I don't feed them enough. Keep an eye on his tummy,
> and if it goes flat or concave, it's way too little. Feed them
bits
> of lettuce, raw veggies, they love it. My pleco used to swim
around
> with the big circle of squash attached to his face.
>
> > Steve: How often should a pleco be fed if there is little algae
in
> > the tank? I recently placed a clown pleco in a established tank
> > with lots of algae and he went to town grazing on the feast and
has
> > cleared just about all of it! I am really impressed with this
guy,
> > but don't know how often to feed him now that the algae is under
> > control. He's only 1.5 inches long. He stays hidden most of
the
> > day and comes out at night to forage. Giving him vegetables,
> should
> > it be cooked or raw? What veggies are OK to give besides
zucchini
> > and squash?
> >
> > Lester
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > One of the most common causes of death in plecos is
starvation.
> > Have you
> > > been providing them with enough vegetable matter in the way of
> > algae or
> > > algae flakes, zucchini, squash, etc.? Did he have a hollow
looking
> > > belly? Does the remaining one have a hollow belly?
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17591 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?/Sinker??
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Evita <evitabug@...> wrote:
I got my sinker from the pet shop. It is the aluminum piece that
comes around the plants they get. I also do the same for my
goldfish. Evita

Aloha

What is a sinker? I did notice that the Romaine bits I just put in
float at the top. Will they sink, or will pleco go up to get them?

Cinde
>
> llrdhsktr <llrdhsktr@...> wrote: Steve: How often should
a pleco be fed if there is little algae in
> the tank? I recently placed a clown pleco in a established tank
> with lots of algae and he went to town grazing on the feast and
has
> cleared just about all of it! I am really impressed with this guy,
> but don't know how often to feed him now that the algae is under
> control. He's only 1.5 inches long. He stays hidden most of the
> day and comes out at night to forage. Giving him vegetables,
should
> it be cooked or raw? What veggies are OK to give besides zucchini
> and squash?
>
> Lester
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17592 From: Evita Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?/Sinker??
I just call it a sinker. It is a little one inch or so metal thing that wraps around the water plants when they ship a bunch to the pet store. It is like aluminum and doesn't rust and is soft to bend. They use them to sink zucchini in all their tanks too. When I saw they did that I asked them for a couple. I push them through the cucumbers or and the zucchini and push them together to make like a circle so it links to the veg. and doesn't slip off. It is just heavy enough so the veg. sinks to the bottom. Even the guppies love to swim down and eat off of it. Evita

bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote: --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Evita <evitabug@...> wrote:
I got my sinker from the pet shop. It is the aluminum piece that
comes around the plants they get. I also do the same for my
goldfish. Evita

Aloha

What is a sinker? I did notice that the Romaine bits I just put in
float at the top. Will they sink, or will pleco go up to get them?

Cinde
>
> llrdhsktr <llrdhsktr@...> wrote: Steve: How often should
a pleco be fed if there is little algae in
> the tank? I recently placed a clown pleco in a established tank
> with lots of algae and he went to town grazing on the feast and
has
> cleared just about all of it! I am really impressed with this guy,
> but don't know how often to feed him now that the algae is under
> control. He's only 1.5 inches long. He stays hidden most of the
> day and comes out at night to forage. Giving him vegetables,
should
> it be cooked or raw? What veggies are OK to give besides zucchini
> and squash?
>
> Lester
>






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17593 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: In tank water quality monitors
I've not seen those, but I would be doubtful about their efficacy. Do
you have a name and/or a link to them?

Strips to measure various water parameters have been around quite a
while. There are instruments that will constantly monitor water quality,
but they mainly rely on probes that need to be cleaned or replaced on a
regular basis. If there were such a product that worked available, I
think we would have all heard about them, and, for the most part, using
them.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 8:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] In tank water quality monitors

I saw some little water quality strips you put in your tanks, that
constantly monitor your tank...and I was wondering if they are worth
getting? Or if they don't work as advertised?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17594 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: In tank water quality monitors
I saw those thing, they have a PH kind of meter, who can tell you the value
it's 16 $ and good for 6 weeks, better invest in a electronic one ..at 50$,
but of course you need to know how to use it and more important how to take
care of them

.....



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 19 juillet, 2006 22:16
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] In tank water quality monitors

I've not seen those, but I would be doubtful about their efficacy. Do
you have a name and/or a link to them?

Strips to measure various water parameters have been around quite a
while. There are instruments that will constantly monitor water quality,
but they mainly rely on probes that need to be cleaned or replaced on a
regular basis. If there were such a product that worked available, I
think we would have all heard about them, and, for the most part, using
them.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 8:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] In tank water quality monitors

I saw some little water quality strips you put in your tanks, that
constantly monitor your tank...and I was wondering if they are worth
getting? Or if they don't work as advertised?




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17595 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
Are they goldfish or are they gold fish? If the former, they are freshwater, temperate fish. Goldfish originated in the Orient. They need a diet that is high in vegetable matter. They do best when kept at room temperature or below unless you have a fancy variety, they are very hardy fish, and can put up with a lot before showing ill effects. Generally it is represented by blood streaking in the fins. They are fish that need a lot of room. 30 gallons is the recommendation for one adult goldfish. They are also 'dirty" fish in that they produce a lot of ammonia. If your cycle was not established before adding them to your tank, they are suffering because of it. You do not give us any water parameters, temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, to help us with a diagnosis.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Yannis Kouzounias
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 3:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] i want my fish thrive back afain

I completely understand what are you talking about. I have just noticed that it`s been 4 days since my fish have started behaving in a dull way-not so lively- and their colours looked as if they ve started fainting. Maybe my idea maybe a dirty glass. Anyway, the sick ones are three simple goldfish-which its origin is carribean according to the salesman-and they are 1 1/5 years old.





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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17596 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/19/2006
Subject: Snail ate the cucumber!
Aloha

I tried fresh veggies today for the first time: minced
Romaine and a cucumber round. I was stunned to see the
snail stick to the cucumber and eat a big donut hole
into it! I didn't even know snails could do that! The
pleco was clueless, even when I stuck the cucumber
under a decoration to hold it down. The baby Clown is
curious about everything and went right for the
cucumber, though hard to tell if he ate some.
And the adult clown was uninterested.

Cinde

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17597 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: i want my fish thrive back afain
Thanks

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: Good points, nigel :)






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17598 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: In tank water quality monitors
Mardel has one for pH and one for Ammonia. Seachem also has one for pH and
one for Ammonia. I would think if the strips are less accurate than the
liquid or powder reagents, then these indicators would be the same.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 10:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] In tank water quality monitors



I've not seen those, but I would be doubtful about their efficacy. Do
you have a name and/or a link to them?

Strips to measure various water parameters have been around quite a
while. There are instruments that will constantly monitor water quality,
but they mainly rely on probes that need to be cleaned or replaced on a
regular basis. If there were such a product that worked available, I
think we would have all heard about them, and, for the most part, using
them.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 8:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] In tank water quality monitors

I saw some little water quality strips you put in your tanks, that
constantly monitor your tank...and I was wondering if they are worth
getting? Or if they don't work as advertised?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17599 From: Evita Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Cinde, I would give the pleco a little bit of time to figure out if he likes it or not. I don't know about yours but mine is really shy. I got mine when I bought a used 55 gal tank. The tank was so dirty you really couldn't even see that he was in it. When I brought him home to my house I put him in my tank which was crystal clear clean. Needless to say I think the algae levels were way down for him. So I added a cuc. and he went for it pretty fast. He had it practically gone in less than 24 hours. I call him the monster. Evita

bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote: Aloha

I tried fresh veggies today for the first time: minced
Romaine and a cucumber round. I was stunned to see the
snail stick to the cucumber and eat a big donut hole
into it! I didn't even know snails could do that! The
pleco was clueless, even when I stuck the cucumber
under a decoration to hold it down. The baby Clown is
curious about everything and went right for the
cucumber, though hard to tell if he ate some.
And the adult clown was uninterested.

Cinde

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17600 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Cinde , did you try it in the day ? , you have to feed the pleco before
close the light in the evening, they eat at night. I never see one of my
pleco eat my zucchini, but in the moring a lot are eat, Remove the vegi in
the moring and put new fresh one in the evening.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de bunnycareshi
Envoyé : 20 juillet, 2006 01:37
À : aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Snail ate the cucumber!

Aloha

I tried fresh veggies today for the first time: minced
Romaine and a cucumber round. I was stunned to see the
snail stick to the cucumber and eat a big donut hole
into it! I didn't even know snails could do that! The
pleco was clueless, even when I stuck the cucumber
under a decoration to hold it down. The baby Clown is
curious about everything and went right for the
cucumber, though hard to tell if he ate some.
And the adult clown was uninterested.

Cinde

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17601 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Aloha

Thanks Evita and George. I gave cucmber day and eve. yesterday. This
morning the snail had eaten out the entire inside of the round
cucmber "wafer"! I would never have believed it if I hadn't seen it!
I took out the eaten cucumber and put in a fresh one which I parked
on the bottom near the pleco. Today I hope to get algae wafers. It's
getting fun now to get them treats, now that I'm learning what they
favor. The baby, BTW, is just hysterical, investigating every new
things that I put in the tank and swimming his little tail off.
Never thought I could be so fascinated by fish!

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Cinde , did you try it in the day ? , you have to feed the pleco
before
> close the light in the evening, they eat at night. I never see one
of my
> pleco eat my zucchini, but in the moring a lot are eat, Remove the
vegi in
> the moring and put new fresh one in the evening.
>
> Gerard
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17602 From: Cory Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Baby Fish
I have a 1 gallon aquarium in my office. It has 4 baby black mollies in it. They are siblings. Every once
in a while they will get in a group and quiver and then swim away from each other. Is this some kind of
ritual for them or is something wrong. Otherwise, they are healthy and growing. Thanks Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17603 From: Regina Haynes Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Can Oscars or Catfish eat veggies? I started to put a piece of veggie in with them yesterday and was afraid it might hurt them. Is there anything that is around in my kitchen that they could eat besides regular fish food?

Regina

bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote:
Aloha

Thanks Evita and George. I gave cucmber day and eve. yesterday. This
morning the snail had eaten out the entire inside of the round
cucmber "wafer"! I would never have believed it if I hadn't seen it!
I took out the eaten cucumber and put in a fresh one which I parked
on the bottom near the pleco. Today I hope to get algae wafers. It's
getting fun now to get them treats, now that I'm learning what they
favor. The baby, BTW, is just hysterical, investigating every new
things that I put in the tank and swimming his little tail off.
Never thought I could be so fascinated by fish!

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Cinde , did you try it in the day ? , you have to feed the pleco
before
> close the light in the evening, they eat at night. I never see one
of my
> pleco eat my zucchini, but in the moring a lot are eat, Remove the
vegi in
> the moring and put new fresh one in the evening.
>
> Gerard
>






Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17604 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Eclipse 6 gallon acryllic aquarium
Hi Everyone,

I have a Eclipse acrylic 6 gallon aquarium with bio wheel filtration that I would either like to sell or exchange for some Koi Angelfish ( The system cost me $58.95 + $14.95 postage). The aquarium is 6 months old, and is fully working in excellent condition. I no longer need it as I simply have no more room considering now have a 29 gal and a eclipse 12 gal in my living room. This tank also has florescent full hood light.

If anyone is interested let me know by writing me directly below please. No sense plugging up the club forum with private matters.

Thanks much,

Ivan
AquaMaze@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17605 From: gracefullnature Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Crossocheilus latius
Has anybody seen or kept these?

I saw them for the first time on Tuesday at the Albany Aquarium.

The Owner, Guy Oei, was there at closing and showed these too me. He
reached into the Large Open Topped Plant Tank and the fish
was "cleaning" his hand within seconds. Guy said he first found out
about them on a recent trip to Europe. They are said to be Better
than
any other Algae Eaters, even the True SAE's which he also imports.
These Little fish have a Big appetite and seem to prefer the Black
Algae that grows on the Plants rather than anything on the Glass.
They
are very active Day & Night and constantly working even more than
the
Oto's. They have a similar body structure to that of the Chinese
Algae
Eater, but may not get as large. There is NO known Common Name for
these Crossocheilus latius. He refers to them as "Algae Eating
Sharks".

I will be getting several of them on Friday and was just curious if
anybody knows anything about them.

Thank you
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17606 From: Chris Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
There are ten non-English common names registered at Fish Base (at http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/comnames/CommonNamesList.cfm?ID=24464&GenusName=Crossocheilus&SpeciesName=latius&StockCode=19399 )

and the species description is at http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=24464&genusname=Crossocheilus&speciesname=latius

Regards,

Chris.

gracefullnature <gracefullnature@...> wrote:
Has anybody seen or kept these?

I saw them for the first time on Tuesday at the Albany Aquarium.

The Owner, Guy Oei, was there at closing and showed these too me. He
reached into the Large Open Topped Plant Tank and the fish
was "cleaning" his hand within seconds. Guy said he first found out
about them on a recent trip to Europe. They are said to be Better
than
any other Algae Eaters, even the True SAE's which he also imports.
These Little fish have a Big appetite and seem to prefer the Black
Algae that grows on the Plants rather than anything on the Glass.
They
are very active Day & Night and constantly working even more than
the
Oto's. They have a similar body structure to that of the Chinese
Algae
Eater, but may not get as large. There is NO known Common Name for
these Crossocheilus latius. He refers to them as "Algae Eating
Sharks".

I will be getting several of them on Friday and was just curious if
anybody knows anything about them.

Thank you






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links










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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17607 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead pleco-why?
You have gotten some good answers waiting for me to catch up on my
e-mail (probably a hopeless task this work week). Generally, with squash
and zucchini, you'll want to parboil them first, prior to feeding. That
will soften them a bit and allow it to sink more readily. They sell
clips to hang lettuce in your tank, the marine people use them a lot.
Shelled peas are also used, though mostly for other fish, such as
goldfish, but the plecos will eat them also. Then you also have the
algae wafers, vegetable flakes, spirulina, and other prepared foods.
There is no reason why your pleco cannot have a good diet without algae
growing in the tank.

About the belly--flat is OK, but it is a very short path to concave from
flat. If your guy is eating every day, you should not have anything to
worry about.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of llrdhsktr
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 12:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Update on lethargic Clown-better/Dead
pleco-why?

Steve: How often should a pleco be fed if there is little algae in
the tank? I recently placed a clown pleco in a established tank
with lots of algae and he went to town grazing on the feast and has
cleared just about all of it! I am really impressed with this guy,
but don't know how often to feed him now that the algae is under
control. He's only 1.5 inches long. He stays hidden most of the
day and comes out at night to forage. Giving him vegetables, should
it be cooked or raw? What veggies are OK to give besides zucchini
and squash?

Lester

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> One of the most common causes of death in plecos is starvation.
Have you
> been providing them with enough vegetable matter in the way of
algae or
> algae flakes, zucchini, squash, etc.? Did he have a hollow looking
> belly? Does the remaining one have a hollow belly?
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17608 From: Amalthea X Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Are you sure it was the snail that ate it last night? When I feed my
pleco zucchini or anything else, that's what I find in the morning,
that perfect ring of leftovers.
Amalthea
On Jul 20, 2006, at 3:31 PM, bunnycareshi wrote:

> Aloha
>
> Thanks Evita and George. I gave cucmber day and eve. yesterday. This
> morning the snail had eaten out the entire inside of the round
> cucmber "wafer"! I would never have believed it if I hadn't seen it!
> I took out the eaten cucumber and put in a fresh one which I parked
> on the bottom near the pleco. Today I hope to get algae wafers. It's
> getting fun now to get them treats, now that I'm learning what they
> favor. The baby, BTW, is just hysterical, investigating every new
> things that I put in the tank and swimming his little tail off.
> Never thought I could be so fascinated by fish!
>
> Cinde
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Cinde , did you try it in the day ? , you have to feed the pleco
> before
> > close the light in the evening, they eat at night. I never see one
> of my
> > pleco eat my zucchini, but in the moring a lot are eat, Remove the
> vegi in
> > the moring and put new fresh one in the evening.
> >
> > Gerard
> >
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17609 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Oscars are pretty much carnivores. They will eat very little in the way of vegetable matter. AS for the catfish, it depends on the particular species of catfish what they will eat.

For your oscars, get them some feeder fish appropriately sized to the oscar. After quarantining the feeders, place them in the tank with the oscar(s).


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Regina Haynes
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 5:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Snail ate the cucumber!

Can Oscars or Catfish eat veggies? I started to put a piece of veggie in with them yesterday and was afraid it might hurt them. Is there anything that is around in my kitchen that they could eat besides regular fish food?

Regina

bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote:
Aloha

Thanks Evita and George. I gave cucmber day and eve. yesterday. This
morning the snail had eaten out the entire inside of the round
cucmber "wafer"! I would never have believed it if I hadn't seen it!
I took out the eaten cucumber and put in a fresh one which I parked
on the bottom near the pleco. Today I hope to get algae wafers. It's
getting fun now to get them treats, now that I'm learning what they
favor. The baby, BTW, is just hysterical, investigating every new
things that I put in the tank and swimming his little tail off.
Never thought I could be so fascinated by fish!

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Cinde , did you try it in the day ? , you have to feed the pleco
before
> close the light in the evening, they eat at night. I never see one
of my
> pleco eat my zucchini, but in the moring a lot are eat, Remove the
vegi in
> the moring and put new fresh one in the evening.
>
> Gerard
>






Regina Haynes, MSW, LCSW
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17610 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/20/2006
Subject: Re: In tank water quality monitors
I'd probably skip it. I took a look at the Seachem one on their site, and they give a lifespan of 3-6 months, but they also say that the lifespan is affected by the particular water chemistry in the tank it is installed. Nest time I go to PetsMart for the cat or stop in a fish store, I'll try to remember to take a look for it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 6:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] In tank water quality monitors

Mardel has one for pH and one for Ammonia. Seachem also has one for pH and
one for Ammonia. I would think if the strips are less accurate than the
liquid or powder reagents, then these indicators would be the same.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 10:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] In tank water quality monitors



I've not seen those, but I would be doubtful about their efficacy. Do
you have a name and/or a link to them?

Strips to measure various water parameters have been around quite a
while. There are instruments that will constantly monitor water quality,
but they mainly rely on probes that need to be cleaned or replaced on a
regular basis. If there were such a product that worked available, I
think we would have all heard about them, and, for the most part, using
them.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 8:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] In tank water quality monitors

I saw some little water quality strips you put in your tanks, that
constantly monitor your tank...and I was wondering if they are worth
getting? Or if they don't work as advertised?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17611 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank
Hi Gerard yes yes you are right! my mistake.


Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
Nigel I think you confuse the parasites and the bacteria, a parasites is an
organism which lives on or in a different organism, leech are parasites and
no need for a microscopes. In the human you have the flat worm who can reach
many feet longs. Usually you see parasites with the eyes or a 20x
binocular

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Nigel Chetcuti
Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 03:19
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank

ermm i dont think anyone has so good eyes to see parasites they are normally
seen under a microscope!!! (no offense regarding the sight issue) i actually
.............






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17612 From: Nigel Chetcuti Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: White worm dancing in my tank/ Snail Question
Guys, can please send a photo is possible of this white worm, i dont know you but where i live mosquito and fly larvae are not white they are either 'black' or transparent to black but certainly not white!

Nigel

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
That would make sense. This tank is near a window & when a fly gets in
the house, this window is the first place it goes.
I don't have any live plants right now (but I'm about to buy a light
fixture of 110watts that will allow me to!), so I don't think it's
anything that came in attached to something else. Unless it was
attached to the elephant nose or the farlowella.

Can I have a mystery snail in this tank? I know I can't have one in my
cichlid tank but what about a community tank? It's housing dwarf
gouramis, a tetra, the elephant nose, cory cats & angels.

Thanks,
Leslie


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank

They are fly or mosquito larva, I get time to time in spring in my
aquarium,
the fish like them.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Regina Haynes
Envoyé : 18 juillet, 2006 06:29
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] White worm dancing in my tank

Leslie,

I posted ahile back about the same things that I saw in my tank. I
treated with a parasite killer and they eventually went away. However, I
still find them from time to time and they appear to be harmless. I'd
still
like to know what they are. If you find out, let me know.

Regina Haynes

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net>
net> wrote:
I fed my fish tonight and everything was floating around as usual;
and
as usual I was watching like a hawk to make sure all is well and normal
w/ everyone. Drifting among the brine shrimp (which are frozen so
they're very dead) is a moving (like a dance almost), thin, white wormy
thing. It's no more than a 1/2" long and so thin it looked like a hair.
It floated mid water w/ the current then landed behind some driftwood so
I lost sight.
Worm? Parasite?

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17613 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
A Perfect ring of left over is a sign of pleco eating the cucumber. If
snails were feeding that that rate, they would have consumed the ring in a
couple of more hours and would be visible scavenging on it.

In my plec tank, I feed about half a cucumber every other day as it has
about 25 apple snails and a single pleco. That way the plec gets what it
needs and the snails consume the rest. Half a cucumber lasts about 36 hours.



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Amalthea X
Sent: 21 July 2006 03:39
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Snail ate the cucumber!



Are you sure it was the snail that ate it last night? When I feed my
pleco zucchini or anything else, that's what I find in the morning,
that perfect ring of leftovers.
Amalthea
On Jul 20, 2006, at 3:31 PM, bunnycareshi wrote:

> Aloha
>
> Thanks Evita and George. I gave cucmber day and eve. yesterday. This
> morning the snail had eaten out the entire inside of the round
> cucmber "wafer"! I would never have believed it if I hadn't seen it!
> I took out the eaten cucumber and put in a fresh one which I parked
> on the bottom near the pleco. Today I hope to get algae wafers. It's
> getting fun now to get them treats, now that I'm learning what they
> favor. The baby, BTW, is just hysterical, investigating every new
> things that I put in the tank and swimming his little tail off.
> Never thought I could be so fascinated by fish!
>
> Cinde
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Cinde , did you try it in the day ? , you have to feed the pleco
> before
> > close the light in the evening, they eat at night. I never see one
> of my
> > pleco eat my zucchini, but in the moring a lot are eat, Remove the
> vegi in
> > the moring and put new fresh one in the evening.
> >
> > Gerard
> >
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17614 From: Evita Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
I find that all my fish love to eat off off the cuc. Even the guppies go down to the bottom for a nibble. But the Pleco loves to just sit on it. I don't have any snails but I can see that they would eat off of it sharing the most part with the pleco. Funny thing is my turtle will eat it but he actually prefers cauliflower, cabbage (red or white) and tomatoes. I think he likes the tomatoes for the taste and the cauliflower and cabbage because it floats. It is like it is fun to chase them or something. It gives him something to do. Evita

Amalthea X <amalthea23@...> wrote: Are you sure it was the snail that ate it last night? When I feed my
pleco zucchini or anything else, that's what I find in the morning,
that perfect ring of leftovers.
Amalthea
On Jul 20, 2006, at 3:31 PM, bunnycareshi wrote:

> Aloha
>
> Thanks Evita and George. I gave cucmber day and eve. yesterday. This
> morning the snail had eaten out the entire inside of the round
> cucmber "wafer"! I would never have believed it if I hadn't seen it!
> I took out the eaten cucumber and put in a fresh one which I parked
> on the bottom near the pleco. Today I hope to get algae wafers. It's
> getting fun now to get them treats, now that I'm learning what they
> favor. The baby, BTW, is just hysterical, investigating every new
> things that I put in the tank and swimming his little tail off.
> Never thought I could be so fascinated by fish!
>
> Cinde
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Cinde , did you try it in the day ? , you have to feed the pleco
> before
> > close the light in the evening, they eat at night. I never see one
> of my
> > pleco eat my zucchini, but in the moring a lot are eat, Remove the
> vegi in
> > the moring and put new fresh one in the evening.
> >
> > Gerard
> >
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17615 From: Mark Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
I've been hearing similar things about how active they are and how
much algae they eat. If this is even close to correct, these will
be very popular with planted tank enthusiasts. I have a shipment of
them coming in from India on Sunday and am pretty excited to see how
they do. The exporter in India calls them the world's best algae
eating fish. As far as common names, I'm bringing them in as Indian
algae eaters.
Mark


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "gracefullnature"
<gracefullnature@...> wrote:
>
> Has anybody seen or kept these?
>
> I saw them for the first time on Tuesday at the Albany Aquarium.
>
> The Owner, Guy Oei, was there at closing and showed these too me.
He
> reached into the Large Open Topped Plant Tank and the fish
> was "cleaning" his hand within seconds. Guy said he first found
out
> about them on a recent trip to Europe. They are said to be Better
> than
> any other Algae Eaters, even the True SAE's which he also imports.
> These Little fish have a Big appetite and seem to prefer the Black
> Algae that grows on the Plants rather than anything on the Glass.
> They
> are very active Day & Night and constantly working even more than
> the
> Oto's. They have a similar body structure to that of the Chinese
> Algae
> Eater, but may not get as large. There is NO known Common Name for
> these Crossocheilus latius. He refers to them as "Algae Eating
> Sharks".
>
> I will be getting several of them on Friday and was just curious
if
> anybody knows anything about them.
>
> Thank you
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17616 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!/Turtle in w/fish??
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Evita <evitabug@...> wrote:
> Funny thing is my turtle will eat it but he actually prefers
cauliflower, cabbage (red or white) and tomatoes.
>
Aloha

You can put a turtle in w/fish?? What kind of fish, and what kind/size
turtle?

Cinde
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17617 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Aloha Nim

I'm positive it was the snail that ate it because as soon as I put
it in the tank for the first time the snail just glued his face to
it and started making little nibble holes in it. Later he was still
glued to it and the nibble holes were bigger. I'd be delighted if
the pleco would eat it but I'm still waiting. I did get algae wafers
yesterday for the lst time and put in 2 of them at night. I don't
see them this morning and don't know if that means they
disintegrated in the water or someone ate them.

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nimish Mathur" <nimmat4@...>
wrote:
>
> A Perfect ring of left over is a sign of pleco eating the
cucumber. If
> snails were feeding that that rate, they would have consumed the
ring in a
> couple of more hours and would be visible scavenging on it.
>
> In my plec tank, I feed about half a cucumber every other day as
it has
> about 25 apple snails and a single pleco. That way the plec gets
what it
> needs and the snails consume the rest. Half a cucumber lasts about
36 hours.

> Nim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17618 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Oooh...sounds like a fish I want to get to know!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17619 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse 6 gallon acryllic aquarium
It might help your cause if you gave a general location, like
Massachusetts, Chicago, or Sacramento area. Then those who may be wary
of shipping may not have a problem with driving to your place, or
meeting you somewhere in the middle.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of aquamaze@...
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 5:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Eclipse 6 gallon acryllic aquarium

Hi Everyone,

I have a Eclipse acrylic 6 gallon aquarium with bio wheel filtration
that I would either like to sell or exchange for some Koi Angelfish (
The system cost me $58.95 + $14.95 postage). The aquarium is 6 months
old, and is fully working in excellent condition. I no longer need it
as I simply have no more room considering now have a 29 gal and a
eclipse 12 gal in my living room. This tank also has florescent full
hood light.

If anyone is interested let me know by writing me directly below please.
No sense plugging up the club forum with private matters.

Thanks much,

Ivan
AquaMaze@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17620 From: Evita Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!/Turtle in w/fish??
Oh No! Ha! I have three tanks a 20 gal, 30 gal and my red earred slider is in a 55 long. He would eat all the fish if they were in with him. I was just saying he likes his veggies too. He is a little over a year old. I got him last simmer as a hatchling. He is a real personality. I can't really say how big he is I have never really measured him. He is considerally bigger than he was when I got him. He was the size of a quarter and now about the size of my hand opened. Evita

bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote: --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Evita <evitabug@...> wrote:
> Funny thing is my turtle will eat it but he actually prefers
cauliflower, cabbage (red or white) and tomatoes.
>
Aloha

You can put a turtle in w/fish?? What kind of fish, and what kind/size
turtle?

Cinde






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17621 From: Evita Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Cinde, I know what ya mean. My husband hates my pleco. He says it is too ugly to live. Who to say everthing has to be beautiful. I like his shy personality and the way he keeps to himself and is not agressive to other fish. I had him almost 5 months before my husband ever saw him. That show you how much he even looks at the tanks. He does however pay some attention to the turtle. He is hard to miss. He is like a puppy in many ways. But though my husaband does like to feed him his logs he is really clueless of how to care for him. If something happened to me our pets would be in big trouble. Evita

bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote: Aloha

Thanks Evita and George. I gave cucmber day and eve. yesterday. This
morning the snail had eaten out the entire inside of the round
cucmber "wafer"! I would never have believed it if I hadn't seen it!
I took out the eaten cucumber and put in a fresh one which I parked
on the bottom near the pleco. Today I hope to get algae wafers. It's
getting fun now to get them treats, now that I'm learning what they
favor. The baby, BTW, is just hysterical, investigating every new
things that I put in the tank and swimming his little tail off.
Never thought I could be so fascinated by fish!

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Cinde , did you try it in the day ? , you have to feed the pleco
before
> close the light in the evening, they eat at night. I never see one
of my
> pleco eat my zucchini, but in the moring a lot are eat, Remove the
vegi in
> the moring and put new fresh one in the evening.
>
> Gerard
>






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17622 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse 6 gallon acryllic aquarium
HI,

Well I live in North Eastern (Aberdeen area) South Dakota and I had thought I mentioned it, I must have forgotten that.

Take care now,

Ivan
AquaMaze@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17623 From: Evita Date: 7/21/2006
Subject: Re: Snail ate the cucumber!
Gerard, I don't know if I have a pleco or a pig but he eats like crazy day or night. And he love the cucs big time. Evita

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Cinde , did you try it in the day ? , you have to feed the pleco before
close the light in the evening, they eat at night. I never see one of my
pleco eat my zucchini, but in the moring a lot are eat, Remove the vegi in
the moring and put new fresh one in the evening.

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de bunnycareshi
Envoyé : 20 juillet, 2006 01:37
À : aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Snail ate the cucumber!

Aloha

I tried fresh veggies today for the first time: minced
Romaine and a cucumber round. I was stunned to see the
snail stick to the cucumber and eat a big donut hole
into it! I didn't even know snails could do that! The
pleco was clueless, even when I stuck the cucumber
under a decoration to hold it down. The baby Clown is
curious about everything and went right for the
cucumber, though hard to tell if he ate some.
And the adult clown was uninterested.

Cinde

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17624 From: taginmom@aol.com Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: New Member
My name is LeAnn, and I'm a new member. I have a 55 gallon freshwater
community tank and also a 10 gallon soon to be goldfish tank. In the 55 gallon i
have 2 small kissing gouramis, 2 paradise fish, 5 zebra danios, a small chinese
algea eater, a small redtailed shark, and a male fancy guppy. There is
nothing in the 10 gallon at this time. I'm open to suggestions as to what would be
the best tank mates for my buddies in the 55 gallon. I have kept many
aquariums before but none larger than 20 gallons. also i've never kept goldfish
before and my husband wants a couple in the 10 gallon tank. attached is a picture
of the 55 gallon aquarium..i look forward to being an active member of this
group..




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17625 From: Aaron Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Hi Mark,

Where is your store located?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <anubiasdesign@...> wrote:
>
> I've been hearing similar things about how active they are and how
> much algae they eat. If this is even close to correct, these will
> be very popular with planted tank enthusiasts. I have a shipment
of
> them coming in from India on Sunday and am pretty excited to see
how
> they do. The exporter in India calls them the world's best algae
> eating fish. As far as common names, I'm bringing them in as
Indian
> algae eaters.
> Mark
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "gracefullnature"
> <gracefullnature@> wrote:
> >
> > Has anybody seen or kept these?
> >
> > I saw them for the first time on Tuesday at the Albany Aquarium.
> >
> > The Owner, Guy Oei, was there at closing and showed these too
me.
> He
> > reached into the Large Open Topped Plant Tank and the fish
> > was "cleaning" his hand within seconds. Guy said he first found
> out
> > about them on a recent trip to Europe. They are said to be
Better
> > than
> > any other Algae Eaters, even the True SAE's which he also
imports.
> > These Little fish have a Big appetite and seem to prefer the
Black
> > Algae that grows on the Plants rather than anything on the
Glass.
> > They
> > are very active Day & Night and constantly working even more
than
> > the
> > Oto's. They have a similar body structure to that of the Chinese
> > Algae
> > Eater, but may not get as large. There is NO known Common Name
for
> > these Crossocheilus latius. He refers to them as "Algae Eating
> > Sharks".
> >
> > I will be getting several of them on Friday and was just curious
> if
> > anybody knows anything about them.
> >
> > Thank you
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17626 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: Angels w/ red fins
My 3 new angels have developed a reddening on their top fins. At first
is was just one, I treated w/ furan-2 and within 5 hours it was better.
I followed one more furan-2 treatment the next day and then stopped.
That was 3 days ago. Today they all have the red fins.
I fed them some penicillin filled gel food by gel-tek. They nibbled but
I figure they will eat it better when they get hungrier.
Is this likely septicemia? They are having a hard time fighting the
current in the tank so they drift a little, but other than that
seemingly normal. (I'm looking at a new smaller filter for the next
round, but I don't want to change mid treatment.)

Should I treat w/ another round of furan-2 + the geltek food?
Since I didn't do a "complete" treatment of furan-2 (the full 3 days)
should I go ahead w/ a 25% water change? Right now there is no carbon
in the filter either.

grrrr...thank goodness I quarantined these guys.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17627 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: New member
Hi
I am a new member of the group. I have a 10 gallon tank with 2
fantail goldfish and an apple snail and a 32 gallon which I have
recently started up. So far I have 3 platys , a pleco and a sole
surviving female guppy. I am treating for ich at the moment so
hopefully I will slowly be able to add more fish soon. I am looking
forward to learning a lot from this group.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17628 From: Mark Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Aaron,
I work out of my home in Bensalem, PA, just outside of
Philadelphia. You can find a lot of my fish on Aquabid (seller
anubiasdesign). My website (anubiasdesign.com) is out of date and
undergoing major work. I'm hoping it will be up by the end of the
summer, with full listings and a couple hundred pics.
Mark

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <anonymous122899@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Mark,
>
> Where is your store located?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <anubiasdesign@> wrote:
> >
> > I've been hearing similar things about how active they are and
how
> > much algae they eat. If this is even close to correct, these
will
> > be very popular with planted tank enthusiasts. I have a
shipment
> of
> > them coming in from India on Sunday and am pretty excited to see
> how
> > they do. The exporter in India calls them the world's best
algae
> > eating fish. As far as common names, I'm bringing them in as
> Indian
> > algae eaters.
> > Mark
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "gracefullnature"
> > <gracefullnature@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Has anybody seen or kept these?
> > >
> > > I saw them for the first time on Tuesday at the Albany
Aquarium.
> > >
> > > The Owner, Guy Oei, was there at closing and showed these too
> me.
> > He
> > > reached into the Large Open Topped Plant Tank and the fish
> > > was "cleaning" his hand within seconds. Guy said he first
found
> > out
> > > about them on a recent trip to Europe. They are said to be
> Better
> > > than
> > > any other Algae Eaters, even the True SAE's which he also
> imports.
> > > These Little fish have a Big appetite and seem to prefer the
> Black
> > > Algae that grows on the Plants rather than anything on the
> Glass.
> > > They
> > > are very active Day & Night and constantly working even more
> than
> > > the
> > > Oto's. They have a similar body structure to that of the
Chinese
> > > Algae
> > > Eater, but may not get as large. There is NO known Common Name
> for
> > > these Crossocheilus latius. He refers to them as "Algae Eating
> > > Sharks".
> > >
> > > I will be getting several of them on Friday and was just
curious
> > if
> > > anybody knows anything about them.
> > >
> > > Thank you
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17629 From: bunnycareshi Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: Turtle in w/fish?? What kind??
Aloha

I'm repeating this question since I didn't get a reply b/4 and I'm
kinda interested in doing it. is it one of those little turtles - the
common kind - that you can put it? Can he be kept in tank like the
fish or does he need a "landing ground" above water?
Details please...

Oh, and BTW, it *is* the snail that's eating the cucumber. His face
was stuck to it again this a.m.

Cinde
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17630 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/22/2006
Subject: Re: New Member
Hi LeAnn,

And Welcome.

For the 55, I'd remove the chinese algae eater you have, and replace him
with something else. The chinese algae eater is not an algae eater, but
eats the mucous off other fish. Depending on your algae levels, you
might want to get some otos for algae control, if you have a decent
amount, if not, try some ancistrus, also known as the bushy nosed pleco,
or just bushy nose. The kissers will grow quite large overtime, and the
55 would be just about enough for the two of them. The red-tailed shark
will grow to about 5" and may be OK for the tank with the kissers.
Pretty much, leave your tank as it and let the fish grow into it.

As for the 10, I'd rethink the goldfish plan. It may be OK for one or
two small goldfish, but they will quickly out grow the tank. An adult
goldfish requires about 30 gallons of water.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of taginmom@...
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 11:34 AM
To: undisclosed-recipients
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Member

My name is LeAnn, and I'm a new member. I have a 55 gallon freshwater
community tank and also a 10 gallon soon to be goldfish tank. In the 55
gallon i
have 2 small kissing gouramis, 2 paradise fish, 5 zebra danios, a small
chinese
algea eater, a small redtailed shark, and a male fancy guppy. There is
nothing in the 10 gallon at this time. I'm open to suggestions as to
what would be
the best tank mates for my buddies in the 55 gallon. I have kept many
aquariums before but none larger than 20 gallons. also i've never kept
goldfish
before and my husband wants a couple in the 10 gallon tank. attached is
a picture
of the 55 gallon aquarium..i look forward to being an active member of
this
group..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17631 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Molly Fry
Very unexpected. I looked into my tank the other day and noticed a small
fish less than a half inch long swimming at the surface over my sword plant. it
was a black Molly Fry. WOW!! My first fish litter! I am so proud of myself.
LOLOL
Today I noticed 2 of them. In this tank are 2 black mollies, 3 silver
lyrtail mollies, 1 female betta, 1 ghost knife fish, 1 pictus cat, 1 pleco.And of
course numerous apple snails.
Oh and 1 marble Angelfish about 5 inches in height.
I am not too worried about trying to save them. I like my hobby but, my
hands are full enough with one 1 year old. I still feed them small frozen brine
shrimp.We will see if any survive.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17632 From: taginmom@aol.com Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: New Member
I had no idea that they did that. I was going to get a pleco for the tank anyway so i think i'll take your suggestion and remove the CAE.
--------------------------------------
In a message...,steve...writes:
For the 55, I'd remove the chinese algae eater you have, and replace him with something else. The chinese algae eater is not an algae eater, but eats the mucous off other fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17633 From: Aaron Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Cool, I just joined your group, hopefully others here will too.

--- "Mark" <anubiasdesign@...> wrote:
> I work out of my home in Bensalem, PA, just outside of
> Philadelphia. You can find a lot of my fish on Aquabid (seller
> anubiasdesign)...
> Mark
>
> --- "Aaron" <anonymous122899@> wrote:
> > Hi Mark,
> > Where is your store located?

> > --- "Mark" <anubiasdesign@> wrote:
... I have a shipment of them coming in from India on Sunday and am
pretty excited to see how they do. The exporter in India calls them
the world's best algae eating fish. As far as common names, I'm
bringing them in as Indian algae eaters.
> > > Mark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17634 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
Tank size?
pH?
Temperature?
Ammonia?
Nitrate?
Nitrite?
Fish size? Number?
Species/variety?

Some angels, as they grow, can develop a golden or orange/red coloration
on their back going up into the dorsal fin. This is natural, and there
is nothing that will "cure" it. A better description or photo would help
in determining whether this is something you need to worry about.

Reduce the filter flow. Angelfish come from tranquil waters. If they are
having a problem, the high flow is not going to be helping them recover.
You should not immediately be throwing drugs at them until you know
which to use, if any. While you are trying to diagnose the problem,
raise the water temperature some and do an immediate massive water
change--in the range of 50%--which will dilute any quality problems.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 6:11 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com;
naturalaquariumenthusiast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

My 3 new angels have developed a reddening on their top fins. At first
is was just one, I treated w/ furan-2 and within 5 hours it was better.
I followed one more furan-2 treatment the next day and then stopped.
That was 3 days ago. Today they all have the red fins.
I fed them some penicillin filled gel food by gel-tek. They nibbled but
I figure they will eat it better when they get hungrier.
Is this likely septicemia? They are having a hard time fighting the
current in the tank so they drift a little, but other than that
seemingly normal. (I'm looking at a new smaller filter for the next
round, but I don't want to change mid treatment.)

Should I treat w/ another round of furan-2 + the geltek food?
Since I didn't do a "complete" treatment of furan-2 (the full 3 days)
should I go ahead w/ a 25% water change? Right now there is no carbon
in the filter either.

grrrr...thank goodness I quarantined these guys.

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17635 From: Holly Nelson Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Turtle in w/fish?? What kind??
Cinde wrote:

I'm repeating this question since I didn't get a reply b/4 and I'm
> kinda interested in doing it. is it one of those little turtles - the
> common kind - that you can put it? Can he be kept in tank like the
> fish or does he need a "landing ground" above water?
> Details please...
>

Nope, no turtles with fish. Even my old box turtle, as slow and clunky as
she was, loved to chase down feeder goldfish and gobble them up. And the
one time I tried goldfish in with my red-eared sliders (the common pet store
turtle) in a large 50 gallon tank, the only result was an increase in my
respect for the speed of water-living turtles. He spun and whirled and
zipped thru the water, eating all five fish within a day.

Also, turtles are VERY dirty, much more so than goldfish, and they dig up
plants and knock things over.

Now, if you really want a turtle, some things to keep in mind. Many of
them, perhaps most, will outlive you. A friend of mine had a turtle she
inherited from her mother. She kept it 18 years, until it stopped eating
and died. I had my pair of box turtles for about 12 years. They were
adults when I got them, and they are now living with a girlfriend who is
marvelous with animals, so they are at least 25 years old.

And they grow. The cute little baby slider if cared for properly will be
saucer sized in a year or so, and will top out at dinner-plate sized at
maturity (3-8 years).

My friend used to let her inherited turtle wander around the house. It used
to crouch under her chair at the computer. She would put it in a tub of
water to feed and defecate, and it had a corner of its own with a heat lamp
for those basking times.

They can be fun -- I loved the eager little faces of my box turtles when it
was dinnertime. But you have to know what you're getting into.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17636 From: Evita Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Turtle in w/fish?? What kind?? Photo of baby Patrick the slider
Cinde, I thought I said in my last post. He is a red earred slider. He is about 4-5 inches in size and I got him last year as a hatchling. When I got him he was the size of a quarter. He is a water turtle but has to have a place to bask and warm himself. He eats in the water and sleeps in the water. He has a heat lamp and must have UVA AND UVB light. I quess he is the comman kind. Many people get them not really knowing that the do require special care and tons of room to grow. He started in a ten gal and graduated to a 20 gal long before I could even find one. Then about 6 month ago I got a 55 gal. I hope to have him in it the next 2 years. Then really a 100 -150. But then a small pond might be best. I have his tank heated. If you don't they will hybernate. You really don't want that the first year. Anyway I love my slider. But I know many die each year because people just don't want to give them what they really need. Then many can't believe how large
they do grow. The size of a dinner plate. And they can live up to 65-75 years.I belong to several turtle-slider groups. I suggest checking out some groups on them and looking at the photos of some of the homes they show in there to get some ideas. I attached a photo of him as a hatchling. I will try and send another one on the same rock of him about 4 months ago. You can really see how much he grew the first year. I can't send them at the same time because they might take up too much room. Evita

bunnycareshi <bunnycareshi@...> wrote: Aloha

I'm repeating this question since I didn't get a reply b/4 and I'm
kinda interested in doing it. is it one of those little turtles - the
common kind - that you can put it? Can he be kept in tank like the
fish or does he need a "landing ground" above water?
Details please...

Oh, and BTW, it *is* the snail that's eating the cucumber. His face
was stuck to it again this a.m.

Cinde






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17637 From: Evita Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Turtle in w/fish?? What kind?? Photo, Patrick at about 1 year o
Holly, You are right. I forgot the filter system I have is a in the tank filter. They are expensive to start with the right set up and all. The UVA, and UVB bulbs do cost as well and are a must. But in the long run they are great. If taken care of they are kinda like puppy dogs. The swim to meet you at the tank and beg for food. I really love mine. I will be 48 in Dec. and I guess if he lives to 75 I should have a will as to which kid gets him. Think about it. My youngest turned 11 two days ago. She could be 85 when this slider passes on. Now that is a hoot. I attached a photo of Patrick at one year in his 55 gal tank on the same rock. Evita

.





---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17638 From: Evita Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Turtle in w/fish?? What kind?? Photo of baby Patrick the slider
Sorry Ididn't know this group didn't accept attachments. I opened a photo album in the group site under Evita's Pets. I put some photos in there for you to see if you wanted. Evita
.





---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17639 From: Mark Denaro Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
Leslie,
Can you send a pic of the fish? That way we can figure out what it is or if it's even anything to worry about.
Mark


Anubias Design
"where rare species are common"

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17640 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: New Member
watch the kissing fish when they get bigger as mine has killed 2 offer
kissers 2 honey goramies 2 dwarf garamies it may be just mine it thinks its a
parana lol


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17641 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
They are in a 10 gal. (qt tank) w/ pH of 7.2. The temp is 76-78. NO
ammonia or nitrites, nitrates .5.
They are dime sized bodies, I mentioned there are 3 of them.
There is one leopard long veil and perhaps a silver smokey semi-veil and
I'm not sure on the other. His veil is compact I think and his body
this cool solid silvery color w/ blushes of gold on his cheeks.

The fact that each fish has different markings makes me think the
reddening of the fins is not something each one should have, they are
each different types. Plus when I treated w/ furan-2 the first time,
the sickly fish became better and his red dissapeared. (He was also on
his side at this time and straightened up when his red vanished.) It
would not have dissapeared if it were his natural coloring.

The color is just red, not golden or orange but really red. There isn't
any other way to better describe it other than their top fins are
gettting a red hue to them. I will try to find some batteries and take
some pics if you think it will help, but I'm fairly certain there is
something bacterial going on.
I will also do a water change before I do any treatments. Probably
25-40%.

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins



Tank size?
pH?
Temperature?
Ammonia?
Nitrate?
Nitrite?
Fish size? Number?
Species/variety?

Some angels, as they grow, can develop a golden or orange/red coloration
on their back going up into the dorsal fin. This is natural, and there
is nothing that will "cure" it. A better description or photo would help
in determining whether this is something you need to worry about.

Reduce the filter flow. Angelfish come from tranquil waters. If they are
having a problem, the high flow is not going to be helping them recover.
You should not immediately be throwing drugs at them until you know
which to use, if any. While you are trying to diagnose the problem,
raise the water temperature some and do an immediate massive water
change--in the range of 50%--which will dilute any quality problems.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 6:11 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
naturalaquariumenth <mailto:naturalaquariumenthusiast%40yahoogroups.com>
usiast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

My 3 new angels have developed a reddening on their top fins. At first
is was just one, I treated w/ furan-2 and within 5 hours it was better.
I followed one more furan-2 treatment the next day and then stopped.
That was 3 days ago. Today they all have the red fins.
I fed them some penicillin filled gel food by gel-tek. They nibbled but
I figure they will eat it better when they get hungrier.
Is this likely septicemia? They are having a hard time fighting the
current in the tank so they drift a little, but other than that
seemingly normal. (I'm looking at a new smaller filter for the next
round, but I don't want to change mid treatment.)

Should I treat w/ another round of furan-2 + the geltek food?
Since I didn't do a "complete" treatment of furan-2 (the full 3 days)
should I go ahead w/ a 25% water change? Right now there is no carbon
in the filter either.

grrrr...thank goodness I quarantined these guys.

Thanks,
Leslie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17642 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
Leslie, I don't understand, why if the treatment with furan-2 was giving
effect you stop it, first let me talk about furan-2, it contain
Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone : the Furazolidone should be use for 7 to 10
days the nitrofurazone should be use (for prolonged bath) for 5 to 10
days, so I don't have a bottle of furan-2 but as many product of API, I
have big question on the way they suggest to administer it, and more on
their efficiency. But if the treatment was good, why switch for penicillin,
the fish who have hard time to swim may be cause by overdose of antibiotic.

If the treatment with Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone (contain in furan-2) was
the solution ( A BIG IF' SINCE WE CAN NOT EXAMINE THE FISH) you should fin
the contain of each of them and give me back the answer , so I can tell you
how to dose it.

Gerard







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 12:06
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

They are in a 10 gal. (qt tank) w/ pH of 7.2. The temp is 76-78. NO
ammonia or nitrites, nitrates .5.
They are dime sized bodies, I mentioned there are 3 of them.
There is one leopard long veil and perhaps a silver smokey semi-veil and
I'm not sure on the other. His veil is compact I think and his body
this cool solid silvery color w/ blushes of gold on his cheeks.

The fact that each fish has different markings makes me think the
reddening of the fins is not something each one should have, they are
each different types. Plus when I treated w/ furan-2 the first time,
the sickly fish became better and his red dissapeared. (He was also on
his side at this time and straightened up when his red vanished.) It
would not have dissapeared if it were his natural coloring.

The color is just red, not golden or orange but really red. There isn't
any other way to better describe it other than their top fins are
gettting a red hue to them. I will try to find some batteries and take
some pics if you think it will help, but I'm fairly certain there is
something bacterial going on.
I will also do a water change before I do any treatments. Probably
25-40%.

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins



Tank size?
pH?
Temperature?
Ammonia?
Nitrate?
Nitrite?
Fish size? Number?
Species/variety?

Some angels, as they grow, can develop a golden or orange/red coloration
on their back going up into the dorsal fin. This is natural, and there
is nothing that will "cure" it. A better description or photo would help
in determining whether this is something you need to worry about.

Reduce the filter flow. Angelfish come from tranquil waters. If they are
having a problem, the high flow is not going to be helping them recover.
You should not immediately be throwing drugs at them until you know
which to use, if any. While you are trying to diagnose the problem,
raise the water temperature some and do an immediate massive water
change--in the range of 50%--which will dilute any quality problems.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 6:11 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
naturalaquariumenth <mailto:naturalaquariumenthusiast%40yahoogroups.com>
usiast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

My 3 new angels have developed a reddening on their top fins. At first
is was just one, I treated w/ furan-2 and within 5 hours it was better.
I followed one more furan-2 treatment the next day and then stopped.
That was 3 days ago. Today they all have the red fins.
I fed them some penicillin filled gel food by gel-tek. They nibbled but
I figure they will eat it better when they get hungrier.
Is this likely septicemia? They are having a hard time fighting the
current in the tank so they drift a little, but other than that
seemingly normal. (I'm looking at a new smaller filter for the next
round, but I don't want to change mid treatment.)

Should I treat w/ another round of furan-2 + the geltek food?
Since I didn't do a "complete" treatment of furan-2 (the full 3 days)
should I go ahead w/ a 25% water change? Right now there is no carbon
in the filter either.

grrrr...thank goodness I quarantined these guys.

Thanks,
Leslie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17643 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
I just check the % of ingredient in furan-2 , this treatment need at least
5 to 7 days to work

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 13:22
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

Leslie, I don't understand, why if the treatment with furan-2 was giving
effect you stop it, first let me talk about furan-2, it contain
Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone : the Furazolidone should be use for 7 to 10
days the nitrofurazone should be use (for prolonged bath) for 5 to 10
days, so I don't have a bottle of furan-2 but as many product of API, I
have big question on the way they suggest to administer it, and more on
their efficiency. But if the treatment was good, why switch for penicillin,
the fish who have hard time to swim may be cause by overdose of antibiotic.

If the treatment with Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone (contain in furan-2) was
the solution ( A BIG IF' SINCE WE CAN NOT EXAMINE THE FISH) you should fin
the contain of each of them and give me back the answer , so I can tell you
how to dose it.

Gerard







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 12:06
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

They are in a 10 gal. (qt tank) w/ pH of 7.2. The temp is 76-78. NO
ammonia or nitrites, nitrates .5.
They are dime sized bodies, I mentioned there are 3 of them.
There is one leopard long veil and perhaps a silver smokey semi-veil and
I'm not sure on the other. His veil is compact I think and his body
this cool solid silvery color w/ blushes of gold on his cheeks.

The fact that each fish has different markings makes me think the
reddening of the fins is not something each one should have, they are
each different types. Plus when I treated w/ furan-2 the first time,
the sickly fish became better and his red dissapeared. (He was also on
his side at this time and straightened up when his red vanished.) It
would not have dissapeared if it were his natural coloring.

The color is just red, not golden or orange but really red. There isn't
any other way to better describe it other than their top fins are
gettting a red hue to them. I will try to find some batteries and take
some pics if you think it will help, but I'm fairly certain there is
something bacterial going on.
I will also do a water change before I do any treatments. Probably
25-40%.

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins



Tank size?
pH?
Temperature?
Ammonia?
Nitrate?
Nitrite?
Fish size? Number?
Species/variety?

Some angels, as they grow, can develop a golden or orange/red coloration
on their back going up into the dorsal fin. This is natural, and there
is nothing that will "cure" it. A better description or photo would help
in determining whether this is something you need to worry about.

Reduce the filter flow. Angelfish come from tranquil waters. If they are
having a problem, the high flow is not going to be helping them recover.
You should not immediately be throwing drugs at them until you know
which to use, if any. While you are trying to diagnose the problem,
raise the water temperature some and do an immediate massive water
change--in the range of 50%--which will dilute any quality problems.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 6:11 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
naturalaquariumenth <mailto:naturalaquariumenthusiast%40yahoogroups.com>
usiast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

My 3 new angels have developed a reddening on their top fins. At first
is was just one, I treated w/ furan-2 and within 5 hours it was better.
I followed one more furan-2 treatment the next day and then stopped.
That was 3 days ago. Today they all have the red fins.
I fed them some penicillin filled gel food by gel-tek. They nibbled but
I figure they will eat it better when they get hungrier.
Is this likely septicemia? They are having a hard time fighting the
current in the tank so they drift a little, but other than that
seemingly normal. (I'm looking at a new smaller filter for the next
round, but I don't want to change mid treatment.)

Should I treat w/ another round of furan-2 + the geltek food?
Since I didn't do a "complete" treatment of furan-2 (the full 3 days)
should I go ahead w/ a 25% water change? Right now there is no carbon
in the filter either.

grrrr...thank goodness I quarantined these guys.

Thanks,
Leslie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links










Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17644 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: ich
Hi,
I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have a
32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
days. All my fish except for one are fine.
A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving daily.
How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I am
doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had ich
and recovered they become immune??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17645 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Hello Mytiel???? , whit what you treat it?, what is your water temp. ,
the cycle of the ich is faster in warmer water, I ask because 9 day you
should have finish with the ich, unless the water is colder. It's always
good to increase the temp for treat it , Guppy tolerate between 18' and 28'C
( 64-82'F) so go for 28' (82') Are they immune after ???, many people say
yes, but don't forgot than the ich is always there, it sleeping and reappear
in bad water condition or stress situation, or all other condition who make
the immune system weak

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 17:56
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] ich

Hi,
I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have a
32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
days. All my fish except for one are fine.
A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving daily.
How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I am
doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had ich
and recovered they become immune??







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17646 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>I have increased my temp to 30c while I have been treating. The
guppy is improving daily she had a really bad case, her whole head
and fins were covered. Now she only has a few left on her mouth. I
am treating with Quick cure. I test my water weekly and perform
water changes on a weekly basis but have increased the frequency to
every 3rd day during treatment.
Kerry
> Hello Mytiel???? , whit what you treat it?, what is your water
temp. ,
> the cycle of the ich is faster in warmer water, I ask because 9
day you
> should have finish with the ich, unless the water is colder. It's
always
> good to increase the temp for treat it , Guppy tolerate between
18' and 28'C
> ( 64-82'F) so go for 28' (82') Are they immune after ???, many
people say
> yes, but don't forgot than the ich is always there, it sleeping
and reappear
> in bad water condition or stress situation, or all other condition
who make
> the immune system weak
>
> Gerard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de mytiel123
> Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 17:56
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] ich
>
> Hi,
> I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have
a
> 32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
> days. All my fish except for one are fine.
> A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving
daily.
> How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I
am
> doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had
ich
> and recovered they become immune??
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17647 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
At dime size, they would not be developing the color I mentioned. They are
still too young. Also, at dime size, it is hard to determine what strain
they are unless you know the source of the small ones.

The pH is on the high side for angels, which really like a soft, acidic
water. Do you know if your pH is much different than that they come from?
They could have stressed with a rapid pH change, which may explain the
symptoms you see.

I do agree with Gerard. If you started a course of treatment and it seemed
to be working, why stop? Worst thing in the world is to stop a treatment for
bacteria or parasites and stop before the course has run. What that does is
to kill the weakest, allowing the stronger ones to survive. Eventually, the
treatment becomes ineffective, because only the stronger have survived
earlier, incomplete treatments and are no longer adversely affected by the
treatment.

Start again with the original, apparently effective, Furan-2 treatment, and
follow the full course as outlined in the instructions. Remove any carbon in
your filter. If water changes are not called for, do not do them (you've
just done one prior to the start of treatment) until the treatment is over.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 12:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

They are in a 10 gal. (qt tank) w/ pH of 7.2. The temp is 76-78. NO
ammonia or nitrites, nitrates .5.
They are dime sized bodies, I mentioned there are 3 of them.
There is one leopard long veil and perhaps a silver smokey semi-veil and
I'm not sure on the other. His veil is compact I think and his body
this cool solid silvery color w/ blushes of gold on his cheeks.

The fact that each fish has different markings makes me think the
reddening of the fins is not something each one should have, they are
each different types. Plus when I treated w/ furan-2 the first time,
the sickly fish became better and his red dissapeared. (He was also on
his side at this time and straightened up when his red vanished.) It
would not have dissapeared if it were his natural coloring.

The color is just red, not golden or orange but really red. There isn't
any other way to better describe it other than their top fins are
gettting a red hue to them. I will try to find some batteries and take
some pics if you think it will help, but I'm fairly certain there is
something bacterial going on.
I will also do a water change before I do any treatments. Probably
25-40%.

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins



Tank size?
pH?
Temperature?
Ammonia?
Nitrate?
Nitrite?
Fish size? Number?
Species/variety?

Some angels, as they grow, can develop a golden or orange/red coloration
on their back going up into the dorsal fin. This is natural, and there
is nothing that will "cure" it. A better description or photo would help
in determining whether this is something you need to worry about.

Reduce the filter flow. Angelfish come from tranquil waters. If they are
having a problem, the high flow is not going to be helping them recover.
You should not immediately be throwing drugs at them until you know
which to use, if any. While you are trying to diagnose the problem,
raise the water temperature some and do an immediate massive water
change--in the range of 50%--which will dilute any quality problems.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 6:11 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
naturalaquariumenth <mailto:naturalaquariumenthusiast%40yahoogroups.com>
usiast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

My 3 new angels have developed a reddening on their top fins. At first
is was just one, I treated w/ furan-2 and within 5 hours it was better.
I followed one more furan-2 treatment the next day and then stopped.
That was 3 days ago. Today they all have the red fins.
I fed them some penicillin filled gel food by gel-tek. They nibbled but
I figure they will eat it better when they get hungrier.
Is this likely septicemia? They are having a hard time fighting the
current in the tank so they drift a little, but other than that
seemingly normal. (I'm looking at a new smaller filter for the next
round, but I don't want to change mid treatment.)

Should I treat w/ another round of furan-2 + the geltek food?
Since I didn't do a "complete" treatment of furan-2 (the full 3 days)
should I go ahead w/ a 25% water change? Right now there is no carbon
in the filter either.

grrrr...thank goodness I quarantined these guys.

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17648 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
It sounds like your guppy had a real bad case. Seven days after the
disappearance of the cysts on the fish should be sufficient. When the cyst
bursts, it releases a form of the parasite ich. You need enough time to
ensure that these are also killed before ending treatment.

One does not become immune to a parasite. Your fish will not become immune
to ich.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ich

Hi,
I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have a
32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
days. All my fish except for one are fine.
A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving daily.
How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I am
doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had ich
and recovered they become immune??







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17649 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: re; ich
It sounds like your guppy had a real bad case. Seven days after the
disappearance of the cysts on the fish should be sufficient. When the
cyst
bursts, it releases a form of the parasite ich. You need enough time to
ensure that these are also killed before ending treatment.

One does not become immune to a parasite. Your fish will not become
immune
to ich.


\\Steve//

she did have it very bad. I was sure she wasn't going to survive. so
do you mean that I should treat for another 7 days after her last spot
disappears?? I have now been treating for 9 days

Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17650 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: re; ich
If I was you I will put the fish in an small tank or container and treat the
main aquarium for an other 48 hours, on the small tank with the only
fish remaining with the spot I will treat until no spot + 48 hours, but
after 9 days , still white spot, I'm not sure it's ich, it's important
than you don't treat to much in the main tank, because the malachite green
(the main ingredient) affect the useful bacteria of your filter, check your
ammonia for the next 10 days, I think again to your immune question, how
a fish can be immune to a parasite ???? I will like to know because I live
in the wood, so those parasite suck my blood years after years.....:)







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 21:41
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re; ich

It sounds like your guppy had a real bad case. Seven days after the
disappearance of the cysts on the fish should be sufficient. When the
cyst
bursts, it releases a form of the parasite ich. You need enough time to
ensure that these are also killed before ending treatment.

One does not become immune to a parasite. Your fish will not become
immune
to ich.


\\Steve//

she did have it very bad. I was sure she wasn't going to survive. so
do you mean that I should treat for another 7 days after her last spot
disappears?? I have now been treating for 9 days

Kerry






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17651 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: ich
If I was you I will put the fish in an small tank or container and treat
the
main aquarium for an other 48 hours, on the small tank with the only
fish remaining with the spot I will treat until no spot + 48 hours, but
after 9 days , still white spot, I'm not sure it's ich, it's important
than you don't treat to much in the main tank, because the malachite
green
(the main ingredient) affect the useful bacteria of your filter, check
your
ammonia for the next 10 days, I think again to your immune question, how
a fish can be immune to a parasite ???? I will like to know because I
live
in the wood, so those parasite suck my blood years after years.....:)


ok ok I get the hint that question about the immunity was a stupid one
[(:|] I do have a small tank I think it is a 2 gallon but it is not set
up and of course I don't have a filter for it. if I used an airstone
to move the water around would this be ok or would it be too stressful
for her?? and of course the tank has not been cycled or anything; If it
isn't ich then what else could it be? if the other fish are healthy and
it isn't ich does that mean they will stay that way and therefore it
would be safe to stop treatment?? I warned you guys I am really new at
this [:D] Kerry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17652 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Contrary to what Gerard said, I'd keep treating the main tank. Set up your 2
gallon, just in case, add a small sponge filter to your main tank and match
the temperature of your main tank in the smaller one.. If the guppy does not
clear up in a couple of days, it may be possible that she does have
something else. Transfer her with the sponge filter to the 2 gallon, and
observe her closely. Then report your observations back here so we might be
able to advise you further.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 10:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ich


If I was you I will put the fish in an small tank or container and treat
the
main aquarium for an other 48 hours, on the small tank with the only
fish remaining with the spot I will treat until no spot + 48 hours, but
after 9 days , still white spot, I'm not sure it's ich, it's important
than you don't treat to much in the main tank, because the malachite
green
(the main ingredient) affect the useful bacteria of your filter, check
your
ammonia for the next 10 days, I think again to your immune question, how
a fish can be immune to a parasite ???? I will like to know because I
live
in the wood, so those parasite suck my blood years after years.....:)


ok ok I get the hint that question about the immunity was a stupid one
[(:|] I do have a small tank I think it is a 2 gallon but it is not set
up and of course I don't have a filter for it. if I used an airstone
to move the water around would this be ok or would it be too stressful
for her?? and of course the tank has not been cycled or anything; If it
isn't ich then what else could it be? if the other fish are healthy and
it isn't ich does that mean they will stay that way and therefore it
would be safe to stop treatment?? I warned you guys I am really new at
this [:D] Kerry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17653 From: Anton Montilla Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Ich is not hard to treat. All you need is a heater, external madicine to your choice, and little leg work for water changes.

How often do you perform water changes??

Change water everyday and put desired medication. Set temp of heater at 30 degrees. Kaya yan ng guppies. If 3 days and still ich is there, increas temp to 32. but don't go over 32 degrees! The higher the temp the faster/better to remove ich.

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
Hello Mytiel???? , whit what you treat it?, what is your water temp. ,
the cycle of the ich is faster in warmer water, I ask because 9 day you
should have finish with the ich, unless the water is colder. It's always
good to increase the temp for treat it , Guppy tolerate between 18' and 28'C
( 64-82'F) so go for 28' (82') Are they immune after ???, many people say
yes, but don't forgot than the ich is always there, it sleeping and reappear
in bad water condition or stress situation, or all other condition who make
the immune system weak

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 17:56
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] ich

Hi,
I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have a
32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
days. All my fish except for one are fine.
A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving daily.
How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I am
doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had ich
and recovered they become immune??

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17654 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
I never said to stop to treat the main; I said an other 48 hours if no trace
of the white spot for the main, and continue the treatment of the infected
one in the small tank until no white spot + 48 hours more. Do not forgot
than the malachite stay for few day more in the tank after the last
treatment.

" I will put the fish in an small tank or container and treat
the
main aquarium for an other 48 hours"





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 22:30
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] ich

Contrary to what Gerard said, I'd keep treating the main tank. Set up your 2
gallon, just in case, add a small sponge filter to your main tank and match
the temperature of your main tank in the smaller one.. If the guppy does not
clear up in a couple of days, it may be possible that she does have
something else. Transfer her with the sponge filter to the 2 gallon, and
observe her closely. Then report your observations back here so we might be
able to advise you further.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 10:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ich


If I was you I will put the fish in an small tank or container and treat
the
main aquarium for an other 48 hours, on the small tank with the only
fish remaining with the spot I will treat until no spot + 48 hours, but
after 9 days , still white spot, I'm not sure it's ich, it's important
than you don't treat to much in the main tank, because the malachite
green
(the main ingredient) affect the useful bacteria of your filter, check
your
ammonia for the next 10 days, I think again to your immune question, how
a fish can be immune to a parasite ???? I will like to know because I
live
in the wood, so those parasite suck my blood years after years.....:)


ok ok I get the hint that question about the immunity was a stupid one
[(:|] I do have a small tank I think it is a 2 gallon but it is not set
up and of course I don't have a filter for it. if I used an airstone
to move the water around would this be ok or would it be too stressful
for her?? and of course the tank has not been cycled or anything; If it
isn't ich then what else could it be? if the other fish are healthy and
it isn't ich does that mean they will stay that way and therefore it
would be safe to stop treatment?? I warned you guys I am really new at
this [:D] Kerry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links










Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17655 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: Angels w/ red fins
I did a 50% water change tonight (because I stopped the furan 4 days
ago.) I'll go a 3 day run then another 25% change and continue if
needed.
Many thanks,
Leslie & the fish

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 8:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins



At dime size, they would not be developing the color I mentioned. They
are
still too young. Also, at dime size, it is hard to determine what strain
they are unless you know the source of the small ones.

The pH is on the high side for angels, which really like a soft, acidic
water. Do you know if your pH is much different than that they come
from?
They could have stressed with a rapid pH change, which may explain the
symptoms you see.

I do agree with Gerard. If you started a course of treatment and it
seemed
to be working, why stop? Worst thing in the world is to stop a treatment
for
bacteria or parasites and stop before the course has run. What that does
is
to kill the weakest, allowing the stronger ones to survive. Eventually,
the
treatment becomes ineffective, because only the stronger have survived
earlier, incomplete treatments and are no longer adversely affected by
the
treatment.

Start again with the original, apparently effective, Furan-2 treatment,
and
follow the full course as outlined in the instructions. Remove any
carbon in
your filter. If water changes are not called for, do not do them (you've
just done one prior to the start of treatment) until the treatment is
over.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 12:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

They are in a 10 gal. (qt tank) w/ pH of 7.2. The temp is 76-78. NO
ammonia or nitrites, nitrates .5.
They are dime sized bodies, I mentioned there are 3 of them.
There is one leopard long veil and perhaps a silver smokey semi-veil and
I'm not sure on the other. His veil is compact I think and his body
this cool solid silvery color w/ blushes of gold on his cheeks.

The fact that each fish has different markings makes me think the
reddening of the fins is not something each one should have, they are
each different types. Plus when I treated w/ furan-2 the first time,
the sickly fish became better and his red dissapeared. (He was also on
his side at this time and straightened up when his red vanished.) It
would not have dissapeared if it were his natural coloring.

The color is just red, not golden or orange but really red. There isn't
any other way to better describe it other than their top fins are
gettting a red hue to them. I will try to find some batteries and take
some pics if you think it will help, but I'm fairly certain there is
something bacterial going on.
I will also do a water change before I do any treatments. Probably
25-40%.

~Leslie

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

Tank size?
pH?
Temperature?
Ammonia?
Nitrate?
Nitrite?
Fish size? Number?
Species/variety?

Some angels, as they grow, can develop a golden or orange/red coloration
on their back going up into the dorsal fin. This is natural, and there
is nothing that will "cure" it. A better description or photo would help
in determining whether this is something you need to worry about.

Reduce the filter flow. Angelfish come from tranquil waters. If they are
having a problem, the high flow is not going to be helping them recover.
You should not immediately be throwing drugs at them until you know
which to use, if any. While you are trying to diagnose the problem,
raise the water temperature some and do an immediate massive water
change--in the range of 50%--which will dilute any quality problems.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 6:11 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
naturalaquariumenth <mailto:naturalaquariumenthusiast%40yahoogroups.com>
usiast@yahoogroups. <mailto:usiast%40yahoogroups.com> com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Angels w/ red fins

My 3 new angels have developed a reddening on their top fins. At first
is was just one, I treated w/ furan-2 and within 5 hours it was better.
I followed one more furan-2 treatment the next day and then stopped.
That was 3 days ago. Today they all have the red fins.
I fed them some penicillin filled gel food by gel-tek. They nibbled but
I figure they will eat it better when they get hungrier.
Is this likely septicemia? They are having a hard time fighting the
current in the tank so they drift a little, but other than that
seemingly normal. (I'm looking at a new smaller filter for the next
round, but I don't want to change mid treatment.)

Should I treat w/ another round of furan-2 + the geltek food?
Since I didn't do a "complete" treatment of furan-2 (the full 3 days)
should I go ahead w/ a 25% water change? Right now there is no carbon
in the filter either.

grrrr...thank goodness I quarantined these guys.

Thanks,
Leslie







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17656 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
It's not stupid question, I have at least 6 books who said they will be
immune ..... they wrote it may be just to repeat what the first one said,
but still how can a fish be immune to a parasite, the real answer may be
the parasite affect only the weak fish, so no guarantee than one a fish
get weak, it will not get an other time......



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 22:18
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] ich


If I was you I will put the fish in an small tank or container and treat
the
main aquarium for an other 48 hours, on the small tank with the only
fish remaining with the spot I will treat until no spot + 48 hours, but
after 9 days , still white spot, I'm not sure it's ich, it's important
than you don't treat to much in the main tank, because the malachite
green
(the main ingredient) affect the useful bacteria of your filter, check
your
ammonia for the next 10 days, I think again to your immune question, how
a fish can be immune to a parasite ???? I will like to know because I
live
in the wood, so those parasite suck my blood years after years.....:)


ok ok I get the hint that question about the immunity was a stupid one
[(:|] I do have a small tank I think it is a 2 gallon but it is not set
up and of course I don't have a filter for it. if I used an airstone
to move the water around would this be ok or would it be too stressful
for her?? and of course the tank has not been cycled or anything; If it
isn't ich then what else could it be? if the other fish are healthy and
it isn't ich does that mean they will stay that way and therefore it
would be safe to stop treatment?? I warned you guys I am really new at
this [:D] Kerry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17657 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
I will like to remember than the water tank is 30' so the ich should not be
able to finish is cycle, it's why I said 48 hours, ( between 24-26' the
cycle is 3 to 7 days, 10 days at 15' and a month at 10'c but at 30, the
cycle don't complete) ( refereal from the book fish disease, diagnostics
and treatment, Edward J.Noga) but I more and more sure than at 30' after 9
days it's not ich



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 22:53
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] ich

I never said to stop to treat the main; I said an other 48 hours if no trace
of the white spot for the main, and continue the treatment of the infected
one in the small tank until no white spot + 48 hours more. Do not forgot
than the malachite stay for few day more in the tank after the last
treatment.

" I will put the fish in an small tank or container and treat
the
main aquarium for an other 48 hours"





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 22:30
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] ich

Contrary to what Gerard said, I'd keep treating the main tank. Set up your 2
gallon, just in case, add a small sponge filter to your main tank and match
the temperature of your main tank in the smaller one.. If the guppy does not
clear up in a couple of days, it may be possible that she does have
something else. Transfer her with the sponge filter to the 2 gallon, and
observe her closely. Then report your observations back here so we might be
able to advise you further.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 10:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ich


If I was you I will put the fish in an small tank or container and treat
the
main aquarium for an other 48 hours, on the small tank with the only
fish remaining with the spot I will treat until no spot + 48 hours, but
after 9 days , still white spot, I'm not sure it's ich, it's important
than you don't treat to much in the main tank, because the malachite
green
(the main ingredient) affect the useful bacteria of your filter, check
your
ammonia for the next 10 days, I think again to your immune question, how
a fish can be immune to a parasite ???? I will like to know because I
live
in the wood, so those parasite suck my blood years after years.....:)


ok ok I get the hint that question about the immunity was a stupid one
[(:|] I do have a small tank I think it is a 2 gallon but it is not set
up and of course I don't have a filter for it. if I used an airstone
to move the water around would this be ok or would it be too stressful
for her?? and of course the tank has not been cycled or anything; If it
isn't ich then what else could it be? if the other fish are healthy and
it isn't ich does that mean they will stay that way and therefore it
would be safe to stop treatment?? I warned you guys I am really new at
this [:D] Kerry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links










Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links











Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17658 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/23/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Sigurado kaba na kaya yan ng guppies? (good I have my wife near me to
answer) but at least I recognize the tagalong in your answer. I have
to go sleep I'm a little bit takosa, just kidding........




Kaya yan ng guppies.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17659 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
I thank everyone for all the help but other than ich what could the
spots on my guppy be?? she is improving daily so if it isn't ich then
that means she is improving on her own?? as I said all the other fish
are fine,one of my platys had one spot on her dorsal fin at the very
beginning but nothing since. I will continue to treat for another 48
hours and see what happens. I am very upset with all this because my
tank chemistry was so good prior to this happening.
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17660 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Can be Chilodonella, ( 1-3 mm) Oodinium, or an incipient form of
ichthyophthirius.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 10:19
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re ich

I thank everyone for all the help but other than ich what could the
spots on my guppy be?? she is improving daily so if it isn't ich then
that means she is improving on her own?? as I said all the other fish
are fine,one of my platys had one spot on her dorsal fin at the very
beginning but nothing since. I will continue to treat for another 48
hours and see what happens. I am very upset with all this because my
tank chemistry was so good prior to this happening.
Kerry







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17661 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
I don't know anymore Steve, here is a sentence get from the book "handbook
of fish diseases, Dieter Untergasser " "The truth is , howerver, that
new fish-not yet immune to the parasite....." and an other one from
the book "textbook of fish healt,dr. Georges Post" "There are indication
that limited immunity results from sublethal infection of I.multifiliis.....
they even talk about the possibility of immunization.

So yes a fish can be immune ....

Gerard

One does not become immune to a parasite. Your fish will not become immune
to ich.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ich

Hi,
I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have a
32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
days. All my fish except for one are fine.
A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving daily.
How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I am
doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had ich
and recovered they become immune??







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links











Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17662 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
Here I fond some more info in the book, "immunology,Douglas P.
Anderson, collection Diseases of fish book 4"

"Amond fish culturists, there some SPECULATION that reduction is at
least partly due to the build-up of resistance from previous
infections. Howerver, the actual circulating antibody , if the
immune responce is indeed stimulater, has not been demonstrated.
Mucus antibody may be active against some of these external
infections. "


So some say yes some say no, I will read more and make a resume on
my new web site, I have a lot of other book who talk about fish
parasitology, so it take time to read. But it look than it's only
speculation no seriuos study who can proove or not.

Gerard




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I don't know anymore Steve, here is a sentence get from the
book "handbook
> of fish diseases, Dieter Untergasser " "The truth is ,
howerver, that
> new fish-not yet immune to the parasite....." and an other
one from
> the book "textbook of fish healt,dr. Georges Post" "There are
indication
> that limited immunity results from sublethal infection of
I.multifiliis.....
> they even talk about the possibility of immunization.
>
> So yes a fish can be immune ....
>
> Gerard
>
> One does not become immune to a parasite. Your fish will not
become immune
> to ich.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of mytiel123
> Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:56 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ich
>
> Hi,
> I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have
a
> 32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
> days. All my fish except for one are fine.
> A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving
daily.
> How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I
am
> doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had
ich
> and recovered they become immune??
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17663 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
Can be Chilodonella, ( 1-3 mm) Oodinium, or an incipient form of
ichthyophthirius.

so what do I do for this??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17664 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
The malachite green than you already give will treat the Chilodonella, and
the heat will treat the Oodinium, of course they are not the best
treatment, but the problem is you don't know witch one it is, the best
is to isolate the only fish you have in the 2 gal. tank. Don't worry for the
cycle, just change 50% of the water every 2 day , take the water from the
big aquarium to do so, and replace the water in the big tank with new one,
so you hit 2 bird , 1- you refresh the water in the big tank, and you remove
the ammonia of the nursery tank, and in same time you don't stress the fish
with an new water.

But keep the temp high for few day in the big tank and continue the
treatment for 2 day DON’T USE THE MALACHITE TO LONG ' YOU WILL KILL ALL
THE BACTERIA IN THE FILTER, and after have problem with the cycle.

Where are the spot on the fish ??






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 11:28
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re ich

Can be Chilodonella, ( 1-3 mm) Oodinium, or an incipient form of
ichthyophthirius.

so what do I do for this??






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17665 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
Where are the spot on the fish ??


at her worst the spots were on both side fins around her head and on
her mouth. At this time she wasn't eating very much and tended to
stay in the corner of her tank. Now she only has spots on the one
side fin and a few left on her mouth. She is now very active and
eating very well. They seem to be diminishing every day
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17666 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
The problem with the immunology of the Ich, is the antigen from the parasite
protozoan rarely enter the physiological system of the host, so the
prevention and diagnostic by the antibody have little value, so the
solution have to pass by the mucous own defence system. They are researcher
who works with the Tetrahymena pyriformis, who is a close relative to the
Ich. and can be culture in laboratory, the problem with the Ich, is that he
have to be host by a fish and can not be culture in lab. So the research
are hard to make , to search for a vacin, or prove the immunology.

Interesting subject, so no the question of immunology is not a stupid one.






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 11:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: ich Immune or not ?

Here I fond some more info in the book, "immunology,Douglas P.
Anderson, collection Diseases of fish book 4"

"Amond fish culturists, there some SPECULATION that reduction is at
least partly due to the build-up of resistance from previous
infections. Howerver, the actual circulating antibody , if the
immune responce is indeed stimulater, has not been demonstrated.
Mucus antibody may be active against some of these external
infections. "


So some say yes some say no, I will read more and make a resume on
my new web site, I have a lot of other book who talk about fish
parasitology, so it take time to read. But it look than it's only
speculation no seriuos study who can proove or not.

Gerard




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I don't know anymore Steve, here is a sentence get from the
book "handbook
> of fish diseases, Dieter Untergasser " "The truth is ,
howerver, that
> new fish-not yet immune to the parasite....." and an other
one from
> the book "textbook of fish healt,dr. Georges Post" "There are
indication
> that limited immunity results from sublethal infection of
I.multifiliis.....
> they even talk about the possibility of immunization.
>
> So yes a fish can be immune ....
>
> Gerard
>
> One does not become immune to a parasite. Your fish will not
become immune
> to ich.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of mytiel123
> Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:56 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ich
>
> Hi,
> I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have
a
> 32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
> days. All my fish except for one are fine.
> A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving
daily.
> How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I
am
> doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had
ich
> and recovered they become immune??
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17667 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich
-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 23 juillet, 2006 22:18
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] ich



ok ok I get the hint that question about the immunity was a stupid one
[



For a stupid question it make me read a lot ..... :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17668 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Everything is in the good way so put her for few day in the quarantine
tank, and treat only the main aquarium for 48 hours, my main concern is the
main tank.....

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 12:06
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re ich

Where are the spot on the fish ??


at her worst the spots were on both side fins around her head and on
her mouth. At this time she wasn't eating very much and tended to
stay in the corner of her tank. Now she only has spots on the one
side fin and a few left on her mouth. She is now very active and
eating very well. They seem to be diminishing every day






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17669 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: books on fish diseases
Can anyone suggest a good book on identifying and treating fish
diseases? Hopefully once I have cured my guppy I won't need it but
better safe than sorry.

Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17670 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Thanks for the question, I always enjoy see someone looking for a book .....

I have many in mind, you can first start with the "the fish health, by
Chriss Andrews," not only good for sickness, but enjoyable to read, compare
to other on the subject, and the book is cheap.

You have also the classic "fish disease diagnostic and treatment, Edward
Noga", expensive, but more complete, and hard to read

An other one is the Handbook of fish diseases, by Dieter Untergasser, who
have a chart to make diagnostic,

You can also buy the «A-Z of thropical fish diseases and healt problem, but
is't more like a dictionary,

One I refer also is Textbook of fish Healt, dr.Georges Post,

Search on Amazon, ask me if some interest you, I have a fair large
collection of book on the subject, so chance I get it in hand to make you a
resume

Start by the first one by Chriss Andrew, it's a very good one for the price,
and it's so easy to read.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 14:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases


Can anyone suggest a good book on identifying and treating fish
diseases? Hopefully once I have cured my guppy I won't need it but
better safe than sorry.

Kerry






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17671 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: books on fish diseases
Start by the first one by Chriss Andrew, it's a very good one for the
price,
and it's so easy to read.



Thank you very much. I just ordered it from Amazon. I will probably
ask your advice again of other good books to own next month. I am a
visual person and love to have good reference books on hand. The only
one I have on aquariums so far is the dummies guide so any other
suggestions would be much appreciated.
I have so many questions about aquariums so it is nice to know there
are people out there willing to help a beginner
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17672 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
It's a long time I don't work with guppy, the one around the mouth and the 9
days at 30'c wake me up it's the Tetrahymena , it's look like the white
spot, and cause by a ciliate protozoan, pay attention it can kill the fish
in one day, they call this sickness "the guppy killer" especially if the
muscle and the internal organ are attack so the treatment is about the
same as ich but you need formalin mix with the malachite green, the best
will be a bath in formalin solution and antibiotic, but do it in the 2 gal.
tank , anyway with this sickness better isolate the fish. But if the
fish start to eat it's a good sign



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 12:06
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re ich

Where are the spot on the fish ??


at her worst the spots were on both side fins around her head and on
her mouth. At this time she wasn't eating very much and tended to
stay in the corner of her tank. Now she only has spots on the one
side fin and a few left on her mouth. She is now very active and
eating very well. They seem to be diminishing every day






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17673 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich
It's a long time I don't work with guppy, the one around the mouth and
the 9
days at 30'c wake me up it's the Tetrahymena , it's look like the white
spot, and cause by a ciliate protozoan, pay attention it can kill the
fish
in one day, they call this sickness "the guppy killer" especially if
the
muscle and the internal organ are attack so the treatment is about the
same as ich but you need formalin mix with the malachite green, the
best
will be a bath in formalin solution and antibiotic, but do it in the 2
gal.
tank , anyway with this sickness better isolate the fish. But if the
fish start to eat it's a good sign



Oh. I had a male and two other females which all died. so maybe this
is the problem. I really regret getting the guppies as I have now
read that with all the overbreeding they are very prone to disease.
Is it contagious to other fish? I will follow your advice and isolate
her although I am worried the stress will kill her as I don't have a
heater or filter for the small tank. I have just bought a 10 gallon
as a quarantine tank but I just filled it today so that would not be a
good idea.
the quick cure also contains formalin so could this be why she is
getting better. If I wasn't such a softy I think I would have
euthanized her by now, but since she has been such a fighter I
couldn't bring myself to do that now.
Thank you again Gerard.
ps. Are you from Quebec??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17674 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich
60 Miles north of Montreal



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 16:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re: ich

It's a long time I don't work with guppy, the one around the mouth and
the 9
days at 30'c wake me up it's the Tetrahymena , it's look like the white
spot, and cause by a ciliate protozoan, pay attention it can kill the
fish
in one day, they call this sickness "the guppy killer" especially if
the
muscle and the internal organ are attack so the treatment is about the
same as ich but you need formalin mix with the malachite green, the
best
will be a bath in formalin solution and antibiotic, but do it in the 2
gal.
tank , anyway with this sickness better isolate the fish. But if the
fish start to eat it's a good sign



Oh. I had a male and two other females which all died. so maybe this
is the problem. I really regret getting the guppies as I have now
read that with all the overbreeding they are very prone to disease.
Is it contagious to other fish? I will follow your advice and isolate
her although I am worried the stress will kill her as I don't have a
heater or filter for the small tank. I have just bought a 10 gallon
as a quarantine tank but I just filled it today so that would not be a
good idea.
the quick cure also contains formalin so could this be why she is
getting better. If I wasn't such a softy I think I would have
euthanized her by now, but since she has been such a fighter I
couldn't bring myself to do that now.
Thank you again Gerard.
ps. Are you from Quebec??







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17675 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
60 Miles north of Montreal



The only reason why I ask is because there is a really great store
which only deals with fish and supplies on the West Island of
Montreal. Do you ever travel into Montreal?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17676 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Of course tomorrow I go to Aqua-Tropical (very good choice and good price of
drift wood) on Decarie but the quality of their fish is not as good as 15
years ago. , and also to Yogi on Jean-Talon to see if they still have few
Farlowella, The most healty fish are in Animal Expert in Laval, (because
it's Denis who take care of the tank, and he is a chemist I think because is
the only one who understand me :))) , Where are the fish store in West
Island ? I always shop in Montreal.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 17:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re ich



60 Miles north of Montreal



The only reason why I ask is because there is a really great store
which only deals with fish and supplies on the West Island of
Montreal. Do you ever travel into Montreal?






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17677 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Elephant nose diet success & zapping question
Just something interesting...

I feed brine shrimp at night and this when the elephant nose, Delphino,
usually eats. Today I put in a staple fish food and he's going nuts on
it. I'm really glad to see this! He doesn't eat the flake as far as
I've noticed but he immediately ate this other. Pretty cool. =0)
For anyone that has these fish & wants to add to their diet (or at least
try) the food is BIO Blend tropical fish food by Marineland Labs. It's
really great stuff IMO. It's not a flake but small pellets. About 1/2
float while the other 1/2 sinks.

Yay Delphino! ha ha...

Does anyone know if the zap from their tail hurts? He tries to get me
with it when I move the plants after cleaning, scares the tar out of me.
It's really a funny sight to see me jump so hard at such a small fish,
but I don't want to find out the hard way if it hurts!

~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17678 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
Of course tomorrow I go to Aqua-Tropical (very good choice and good
price of
drift wood) on Decarie but the quality of their fish is not as good as
15
years ago. , and also to Yogi on Jean-Talon to see if they still have
few
Farlowella, The most healty fish are in Animal Expert in Laval,
(because
it's Denis who take care of the tank, and he is a chemist I think
because is
the only one who understand me :))) , Where are the fish store in West
Island ? I always shop in Montreal.


I will tell you where on the West Island if you tell me where in Laval.
the only place I go to in Laval is to Nature Pet Centre in St.
Dorothy.
The one in the West Island is off Highway 40. You stay on the service
road. The name of the place is Big Al's and is in the same shopping
area as Rob Macintosh. They are very helpful and their tanks are so
well kept. I am looking forward to being able to buy fish there soon.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17679 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich/Farlowella
"to see if they still have few
Farlowella"

What is so difficult/tricky about keeping farlowella? I'm thinking that
I will not get another one for fear I'll kill him.

I do a 20% water change once a week, no more no less. I'm pretty stuck
in that routine as it works well for my tanks.
Would that not be OK for the farlowella? I've read a lot on this
catfish but as always it's very conflicting, so I like to hear it first
hand from people that have them.

Many thanks,
~Leslie

<http://www.zainyzebra.com/>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 5:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re ich



New Message Search

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17680 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Plecos
I have two common plecos that have grown up together. Been in the same tank
for probably their entire lives. I was wondering about how social they are
as I'm getting (finally found the tank and the stand, though at two diff.
places), and was thinking about moving one of them into the new 50.

Both are common plecos, a bit over 5 years old. Will seperating them stress
them out or does that matter to them?

Thanks in advance!

-Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17681 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Animal Expert 3264, boulevard Saint-Martin Ouest,
Chomedey, QC H7T 1A1
Tél. : 450-682-3522

Ask for Denis





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 18:15
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re ich

Of course tomorrow I go to Aqua-Tropical (very good choice and good
price of
drift wood) on Decarie but the quality of their fish is not as good as
15
years ago. , and also to Yogi on Jean-Talon to see if they still have
few
Farlowella, The most healty fish are in Animal Expert in Laval,
(because
it's Denis who take care of the tank, and he is a chemist I think
because is
the only one who understand me :))) , Where are the fish store in West
Island ? I always shop in Montreal.


I will tell you where on the West Island if you tell me where in Laval.
the only place I go to in Laval is to Nature Pet Centre in St.
Dorothy.
The one in the West Island is off Highway 40. You stay on the service
road. The name of the place is Big Al's and is in the same shopping
area as Rob Macintosh. They are very helpful and their tanks are so
well kept. I am looking forward to being able to buy fish there soon.







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17682 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Thanks I will go tomorrow if my wife don't come with me ( she will allow me
1 or 2 pets shop but not 3 :))))



Centre D'Aquarium Big Al's
2315G, autoroute Transcanadienne,
Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5Z5
Tél. : 514-428-0099





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 18:15
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re ich

Of course tomorrow I go to Aqua-Tropical (very good choice and good
price of
drift wood) on Decarie but the quality of their fish is not as good as
15
years ago. , and also to Yogi on Jean-Talon to see if they still have
few
Farlowella, The most healty fish are in Animal Expert in Laval,
(because
it's Denis who take care of the tank, and he is a chemist I think
because is
the only one who understand me :))) , Where are the fish store in West
Island ? I always shop in Montreal.


I will tell you where on the West Island if you tell me where in Laval.
the only place I go to in Laval is to Nature Pet Centre in St.
Dorothy.
The one in the West Island is off Highway 40. You stay on the service
road. The name of the place is Big Al's and is in the same shopping
area as Rob Macintosh. They are very helpful and their tanks are so
well kept. I am looking forward to being able to buy fish there soon.







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17683 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: re ich/Farlowella
Leslie they are the best one to keep, very easy, you give them zucchini and
wafer, they will eat in your hand, But the trick is YOU DON'T PUT OTHER
FISH WITH THEM. Unless you know it will not cause problem. They need also
drift wood, they need to eat them for their digestion. They need also fast
moving water, Put a filter who turn at least 15 times the water of the
aquarium in 1 hour, so for this reason, no Angel.... Nad a lot of Oxygen,
look they stick on the intake of a power head
http://www.aqualab.ca/farlo.htm



You have also the Sturisoma aureum Giant Whiptail (people in LFS call them
offen Farlowella) the big difference, is the Giant whiptail have always the
dorsal fins wide open, the Farlowella nearly never open it







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 18:16
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] re ich/Farlowella

"to see if they still have few
Farlowella"

What is so difficult/tricky about keeping farlowella? I'm thinking that
I will not get another one for fear I'll kill him.

I do a 20% water change once a week, no more no less. I'm pretty stuck
in that routine as it works well for my tanks.
Would that not be OK for the farlowella? I've read a lot on this
catfish but as always it's very conflicting, so I like to hear it first
hand from people that have them.

Many thanks,
~Leslie

<http://www.zainyzebra.com/>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 5:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re ich



New Message Search

Find the message you want faster. Visit your group to try out the
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17684 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Steve usually they don't do well together, I never put 2 big pleco
together, (how big they are now ?) they are not Scholl fish, I find them
solitary, may be because they rest in the day and play when I sleep, So my
guest is they will do find in their own aquarium

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 18:17
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Plecos

I have two common plecos that have grown up together. Been in the same tank
for probably their entire lives. I was wondering about how social they are
as I'm getting (finally found the tank and the stand, though at two diff.
places), and was thinking about moving one of them into the new 50.

Both are common plecos, a bit over 5 years old. Will seperating them stress
them out or does that matter to them?

Thanks in advance!

-Steve




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17685 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: re ich
Thanks I will go tomorrow if my wife don't come with me ( she will
allow me
1 or 2 pets shop but not 3 :))))


LOL......ok . make sure to make a trip at some time as it is really
worth it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17686 From: wendie Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
It's probably a pair otherwise they would have been fighting.
Wendie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 5:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plecos


Steve usually they don't do well together, I never put 2 big pleco
together, (how big they are now ?) they are not Scholl fish, I find them
solitary, may be because they rest in the day and play when I sleep, So my
guest is they will do find in their own aquarium

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De
la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 18:17
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Plecos

I have two common plecos that have grown up together. Been in the same
tank
for probably their entire lives. I was wondering about how social they are
as I'm getting (finally found the tank and the stand, though at two diff.
places), and was thinking about moving one of them into the new 50.

Both are common plecos, a bit over 5 years old. Will seperating them
stress
them out or does that matter to them?

Thanks in advance!

-Steve

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17687 From: Holly Nelson Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re; books on fish diseases
Oooh, ooh! Wouldn't it be great to have DVD's on fishkeeping, tank
chemistry, diseases, species, plants, etc?

So much of what I have been reading is hard to understand because I
can't see what they're doing, or what the fish look like when ill in
one way rather than another. DVDs would solve that problem.

Holly

guessing now that such DVDs already exist, unbeknownst to me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17688 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
Gerard,

I've seen the same fish get ich several times over its lifespan. One reason
why fish may seem to build an immunity to ich is that the aquarist is paying
more attention to water quality and temperature and is less likely to allow
the circumstances develop again that are conditions for the fish to get ich.
Also, there are a lot of people out there who do not keep fish for the full
lifespan they are capable of. They are either moved out to someone else, or
prematurely find that great aquarium in the sky.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 11:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ich Immune or not ?

I don't know anymore Steve, here is a sentence get from the book "handbook
of fish diseases, Dieter Untergasser " "The truth is , howerver, that
new fish-not yet immune to the parasite....." and an other one from
the book "textbook of fish healt,dr. Georges Post" "There are indication
that limited immunity results from sublethal infection of I.multifiliis.....
they even talk about the possibility of immunization.

So yes a fish can be immune ....

Gerard

One does not become immune to a parasite. Your fish will not become immune
to ich.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ich

Hi,
I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have a
32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
days. All my fish except for one are fine.
A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving daily.
How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I am
doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had ich
and recovered they become immune??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17689 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
Thanks Steve , the problem, is I try to study fish sickness, but my fish are
not sick :) , so I rely on the one my friends or the LFS give to me, but
then the transport play an other role in the sickness. The way I see it the
Ich attack the fish who have a vulnerability to their mucus, so I think
not only a change of water temp will trigger it, but more a change in PH
and salt content of the tank. It's funny the ich like the fish who like
water with more salt like, especially the molly. When someone buy a fish
from a store and bring it to home, they check the water, but how many of
them will match the ph and alkalinity and hardness, with the one of the
store . For my part I have few extra 10 gal. tank with different ph and
alkalinity, so when I came back from the store I sample the water from the
bag, and put the fish in quarantine in the appropriate tank and adjust the
water over 10 to 30 days for where he will go after. I have a friend who
have a serious attack of ich 5 years ago in is tank. With scales less fish,
I install a Diatom vortex filter for 5 day in the tank, no medicine, it get
ride of the ich ( of course they was trap in the filter )








-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 21:46
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] ich Immune or not ?

Gerard,

I've seen the same fish get ich several times over its lifespan. One reason
why fish may seem to build an immunity to ich is that the aquarist is paying
more attention to water quality and temperature and is less likely to allow
the circumstances develop again that are conditions for the fish to get ich.
Also, there are a lot of people out there who do not keep fish for the full
lifespan they are capable of. They are either moved out to someone else, or
prematurely find that great aquarium in the sky.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 11:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ich Immune or not ?

I don't know anymore Steve, here is a sentence get from the book "handbook
of fish diseases, Dieter Untergasser " "The truth is , howerver, that
new fish-not yet immune to the parasite....." and an other one from
the book "textbook of fish healt,dr. Georges Post" "There are indication
that limited immunity results from sublethal infection of I.multifiliis.....
they even talk about the possibility of immunization.

So yes a fish can be immune ....

Gerard

One does not become immune to a parasite. Your fish will not become immune
to ich.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ich

Hi,
I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have a
32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
days. All my fish except for one are fine.
A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving daily.
How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I am
doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had ich
and recovered they become immune??




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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17690 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich Immune or not ?
Despite its reputation, a mollie is not a fish for the beginner. It does
have special needs, some of which the novice is ill prepared to meet. Modern
day mollies are not as bad as those even 20 years ago, but they still do
pose special challenges to the novice. Where green water is the bane of the
starting hobbyist, you'll never see more beautiful mollies than those raised
and kept in green water. Many try to keep algal growth to a minimum, but
mollies thrive on algae growing in a tank. Many mollies, not all, are at
least alkaline water fish, if not brackish fish. You can even find them
visiting in a marine environment in some areas. It is pretty hard to keep
mollies in an environment made for neons.

One can never stress enough that one should know the fish before purchasing
it. Even so, when we are attracted to a fish for some reason or another, it
is often hard to resist putting off the purchase until the fish can be
researched.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 10:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ich Immune or not ?

Thanks Steve , the problem, is I try to study fish sickness, but my fish are
not sick :) , so I rely on the one my friends or the LFS give to me, but
then the transport play an other role in the sickness. The way I see it the
Ich attack the fish who have a vulnerability to their mucus, so I think
not only a change of water temp will trigger it, but more a change in PH
and salt content of the tank. It's funny the ich like the fish who like
water with more salt like, especially the molly. When someone buy a fish
from a store and bring it to home, they check the water, but how many of
them will match the ph and alkalinity and hardness, with the one of the
store . For my part I have few extra 10 gal. tank with different ph and
alkalinity, so when I came back from the store I sample the water from the
bag, and put the fish in quarantine in the appropriate tank and adjust the
water over 10 to 30 days for where he will go after. I have a friend who
have a serious attack of ich 5 years ago in is tank. With scales less fish,
I install a Diatom vortex filter for 5 day in the tank, no medicine, it get
ride of the ich ( of course they was trap in the filter )








-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 21:46
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] ich Immune or not ?

Gerard,

I've seen the same fish get ich several times over its lifespan. One reason
why fish may seem to build an immunity to ich is that the aquarist is paying
more attention to water quality and temperature and is less likely to allow
the circumstances develop again that are conditions for the fish to get ich.
Also, there are a lot of people out there who do not keep fish for the full
lifespan they are capable of. They are either moved out to someone else, or
prematurely find that great aquarium in the sky.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 11:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ich Immune or not ?

I don't know anymore Steve, here is a sentence get from the book "handbook
of fish diseases, Dieter Untergasser " "The truth is , howerver, that
new fish-not yet immune to the parasite....." and an other one from
the book "textbook of fish healt,dr. Georges Post" "There are indication
that limited immunity results from sublethal infection of I.multifiliis.....
they even talk about the possibility of immunization.

So yes a fish can be immune ....

Gerard

One does not become immune to a parasite. Your fish will not become immune
to ich.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ich

Hi,
I have a question for anyone who may be able to answer me. I have a
32 gallon tank which I have been treating for ich for the last 9
days. All my fish except for one are fine.
A female guppy still has a few spots on her but is improving daily.
How long after I see the last spot do I have to treat the tank? I am
doing water changes etc.... Is it true that once the fish have had ich
and recovered they become immune??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17691 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re ich
Hi, I go visit Big Al today, first thing in the morning, the place is new
( at least compare to the other business I go ) , It's by far the cleanest
place in Montreal, not a single dead fish, and I go inside at same time as
the staff, so no time to clean before me, a buy a 75 gal. tank for 119$ ok
it's a Maryland, not as thick as the Hagen, but for the price wow, I also
get out with 7 different variety of pleco, tomorrow I will go get 1 or 2
sting ray, I 60$ I wait to bring a cooler to carry them. Funny it's a
woman who help me to put the tank in my car, but.......... yes, like many
fish store they should not argue with customer, when I ask if they have the
bio spira ( never try, I want test it) they show me spirulina food, I said
no it's bacteria for start an aquarium , the guy show me a Hagen cycle, he
said it's the same thing, I said I don't think so , after a 5 minutes
speech on microbiology to explain the difference between those nitrifying
bacteria, the guy told me he don't know the bio-spira, so I told him why I
first you told me is the same as Hagen cycle. Funny in a specialise store
usually the staf know more than the average customer, but they should be
award than few customer make this hobby since many years,and may be know
what they want and why they need it. but in resume good store , clean,
and a nice variety of fish. Thanks for the tips

Gerard







---Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 18:55
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re ich



Thanks I will go tomorrow if my wife don't come with me ( she will
allow me
1 or 2 pets shop but not 3 :))))


LOL......ok . make sure to make a trip at some time as it is really
worth it







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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17692 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: re Ich
Hi, I go visit Big Al today, first thing in the morning, the place is
new


I guess most of their customers aren't as well informed as you.....me
included....LOL
Maybe you could go there and teach them a thing or two.
I am glad your wife let you go.
I have as yet to visit the one in Laval but I hope to get there this
weekend.
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17693 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: starter fish and quarantine tanks
I just bought a ten gallon tank to use as a quarantine tank for new
fish to be added to my main tank and hopefully never to be used for
sick fish.
the next fish I want to add to my main tank are zebra danios and a few
months down the line dwarf gouramis. Are danios good fish to cycle a
new tank??
my other question is once you have stocked the tank with all the fish
and the quarantine tank is empty how do you keep it healthy for when
you need it if there are no fish in it??

Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17694 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish and quarantine tanks
It's my understanding that zebra danios are "good" for cycling a tank,
but only because they can stand it and are tough enough to live in
conditions that other fish can not survive in. I always do a fishless
cycle since I think the other is mean, but to each his own. At least
now you know. =)

I keep an empty 10 gal quarantine tank. After each fish has run their
course in it, I wash it out and store it away. I keep a small filter
running on one of my larger tanks which keeps that filter cycled, then
transfer it over to the 10 gal. as needed. It adds extra filtration
when not on the 10 gallon plus always stays cycled for those could-be
emergencies when needed.

Just my two cents...

And if you are interested in a faster cycle that doesn't require hurting
fish, I highly recommend using BioSpira by Marineland. You can add fish
safely within 24 hours, but if at all possible wait 48 hours. Still
much faster and much less painful to any would-be cycle fish.

=)

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 4:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] starter fish and quarantine tanks



I just bought a ten gallon tank to use as a quarantine tank for new
fish to be added to my main tank and hopefully never to be used for
sick fish.
the next fish I want to add to my main tank are zebra danios and a few
months down the line dwarf gouramis. Are danios good fish to cycle a
new tank??
my other question is once you have stocked the tank with all the fish
and the quarantine tank is empty how do you keep it healthy for when
you need it if there are no fish in it??

Kerry







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17695 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish and quarantine tanks
The Danio are indestructible for keep the bacteria alive you can put few
ammonia BUT WITHOUT FISH, use the one buy in pharmacy without perfume, 1
ml day for 10 gal is enough, don't put to much in case you need the tank
fast



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 17:01
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] starter fish and quarantine tanks

I just bought a ten gallon tank to use as a quarantine tank for new
fish to be added to my main tank and hopefully never to be used for
sick fish.
the next fish I want to add to my main tank are zebra danios and a few
months down the line dwarf gouramis. Are danios good fish to cycle a
new tank??
my other question is once you have stocked the tank with all the fish
and the quarantine tank is empty how do you keep it healthy for when
you need it if there are no fish in it??

Kerry







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17696 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: re starter fish
highly recommend using BioSpira by Marineland


I replied to this once but it doesn't seem to have made it to the list
so I hope you don't the question twice.

Can I get BioSpira at any petshop or do I have to order it. I usually
use cycle but if this is quicker and better I would like to give it a
try. I cycled one tank without fish and using cycle but it took over
6 weeks before my ammonia was at 0. Of course I would like to cycle
this new tank without harming any fish so all suggestions are much
appreciated.
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17697 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Kerry bio spira is the best but the problem they don't have in Montreal,
cycle from Hagen just add few bacteria who will help the good one but they
don't replace it with the Hagen Cycle or not it's the same I never see a
difference, me I cycle my tank with ammonia without fish, it take around
15 days, the ammonia cycle start faster since you already put pure ammonia

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 18:20
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re starter fish

highly recommend using BioSpira by Marineland


I replied to this once but it doesn't seem to have made it to the list
so I hope you don't the question twice.

Can I get BioSpira at any petshop or do I have to order it. I usually
use cycle but if this is quicker and better I would like to give it a
try. I cycled one tank without fish and using cycle but it took over
6 weeks before my ammonia was at 0. Of course I would like to cycle
this new tank without harming any fish so all suggestions are much
appreciated.
Kerry






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17698 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: re starter fish
Kerry bio spira is the best but the problem they don't have in
Montreal,
cycle from Hagen just add few bacteria who will help the good one but
they
don't replace it with the Hagen Cycle or not it's the same I never see
a
difference, me I cycle my tank with ammonia without fish, it take
around
15 days, the ammonia cycle start faster since you already put pure
ammonia

Gerard


do I buy the ammonia at a pet store?? and how much do I put in?
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17699 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
You buy it at pharmacy, ask also for a syringe for diabetic , it's in unit 1
unit is 1 ml, for cycle you put 1 to 2 ml per 10 gal. every day, when the
nitrate will start to show slow to 1 ml per 10 gal. ask the pharmacist
they have in the laboratory at the back, usually the brand Atlas in Quebec.
Keep the ammonia in the ref. and let the stopper close the much possible.
AND KEEP AWAYS FROM FISH. When you put in the water , put the syringe
submerge, or else it will evaporate to fast, after suck and reject water
from the aquarium few time in the syringe to dilute the corrosive ammonia

Of course you need 3 kits , ammonia nitrite nitrate, and keep note everyday
of the measurement





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 18:56
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re starter fish

Kerry bio spira is the best but the problem they don't have in
Montreal,
cycle from Hagen just add few bacteria who will help the good one but
they
don't replace it with the Hagen Cycle or not it's the same I never see
a
difference, me I cycle my tank with ammonia without fish, it take
around
15 days, the ammonia cycle start faster since you already put pure
ammonia

Gerard


do I buy the ammonia at a pet store?? and how much do I put in?
Kerry







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17700 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
My dad will kill me ( is pharmacist) , 100 unit is 1 ml. so you use 10 to
20 unit so .1 to .2 ml per 10 gal. do not use 1 to 2 ml , or else you
gone have a high level of nitrate at the end. Do .1 to .2 ml per 10 gal.






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 19:16
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

You buy it at pharmacy, ask also for a syringe for diabetic , it's in unit 1
unit is 1 ml, for cycle you put 1 to 2 ml per 10 gal. every day, when the
nitrate will start to show slow to 1 ml per 10 gal. ask the pharmacist
they have in the laboratory at the back, usually the brand Atlas in Quebec.
Keep the ammonia in the ref. and let the stopper close the much possible.
AND KEEP AWAYS FROM FISH. When you put in the water , put the syringe
submerge, or else it will evaporate to fast, after suck and reject water
from the aquarium few time in the syringe to dilute the corrosive ammonia

Of course you need 3 kits , ammonia nitrite nitrate, and keep note everyday
of the measurement





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 18:56
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re starter fish

Kerry bio spira is the best but the problem they don't have in
Montreal,
cycle from Hagen just add few bacteria who will help the good one but
they
don't replace it with the Hagen Cycle or not it's the same I never see
a
difference, me I cycle my tank with ammonia without fish, it take
around
15 days, the ammonia cycle start faster since you already put pure
ammonia

Gerard


do I buy the ammonia at a pet store?? and how much do I put in?
Kerry







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links










Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17701 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish and quarantine tanks
The dosage is .1 ml not 1 ml, per gal. sorry



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 18:15
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] starter fish and quarantine tanks

The Danio are indestructible for keep the bacteria alive you can put few
ammonia BUT WITHOUT FISH, use the one buy in pharmacy without perfume, 1
ml day for 10 gal is enough, don't put to much in case you need the tank
fast



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 17:01
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] starter fish and quarantine tanks

I just bought a ten gallon tank to use as a quarantine tank for new
fish to be added to my main tank and hopefully never to be used for
sick fish.
the next fish I want to add to my main tank are zebra danios and a few
months down the line dwarf gouramis. Are danios good fish to cycle a
new tank??
my other question is once you have stocked the tank with all the fish
and the quarantine tank is empty how do you keep it healthy for when
you need it if there are no fish in it??

Kerry







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links











Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17702 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Sorry but I didn't see it or I bet I would have responded, I'm a nut for
this stuff.

I haven't found it locally, but this area isn't too fish savvy either.
Most pet stores that carry fish are nothing more than glamorized WalMart
tanks. Definitely do some calling around to see if you can yourself the
shipping. I have found that most pet stores do not even know what it is
then say they have something that is the exact same thing. But they
don't so don't believe them.

I order the BioSpira from a company in Tennessee called the Lighthouse
Fish Store, or Lighthouse something. You can google it and it will come
up.
The BioSpira itself isn't too pricey ($15-35 depending on how much you
need), but shipping is high since it's overnight. They offer 2 day but
I don't recommend it during the summer.The live bacteria will get hot
and stay active then die off quickly. They put a gel cool pack in but
it isn't worth much unless you do the overnight.

Hope that helps and good luck! The price has been really worth it to
me, and I'm cheap. ;)

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 5:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] re starter fish



highly recommend using BioSpira by Marineland

I replied to this once but it doesn't seem to have made it to the list
so I hope you don't the question twice.

Can I get BioSpira at any petshop or do I have to order it. I usually
use cycle but if this is quicker and better I would like to give it a
try. I cycled one tank without fish and using cycle but it took over
6 weeks before my ammonia was at 0. Of course I would like to cycle
this new tank without harming any fish so all suggestions are much
appreciated.
Kerry







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17703 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish and quarantine tanks
Sorry again .1 ml per 10 gal. I gone finish to get it



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 19:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] starter fish and quarantine tanks

The dosage is .1 ml not 1 ml, per gal. sorry



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 18:15
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] starter fish and quarantine tanks

The Danio are indestructible for keep the bacteria alive you can put few
ammonia BUT WITHOUT FISH, use the one buy in pharmacy without perfume, 1
ml day for 10 gal is enough, don't put to much in case you need the tank
fast



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 17:01
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] starter fish and quarantine tanks

I just bought a ten gallon tank to use as a quarantine tank for new
fish to be added to my main tank and hopefully never to be used for
sick fish.
the next fish I want to add to my main tank are zebra danios and a few
months down the line dwarf gouramis. Are danios good fish to cycle a
new tank??
my other question is once you have stocked the tank with all the fish
and the quarantine tank is empty how do you keep it healthy for when
you need it if there are no fish in it??

Kerry







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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links











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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17704 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: re starter fish
Sorry again .1 ml per 10 gal. I gone finish to get it


Are you sure? LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17705 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Yes I'm sure typo mistake



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 20:10
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re starter fish

Sorry again .1 ml per 10 gal. I gone finish to get it


Are you sure? LOL






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17706 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
I have found that most pet stores do not even know what it is
then say they have something that is the exact same thing. But they
don't so don't believe them.


Leslie now your talking, always listen people but never believe them, at
least not before have check what they said.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17707 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
"always listen people but never believe them, at
least not before have check what they said."

Even you Gerard? ;)

~L


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 7:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish



New Message Search

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17708 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
Have you spoken with a representative from Hagen before posting this?
I am very interested to hear what they have to say on the matter.
Mike




> Hello all I just buy 2 bags of hagen black gravel, when I make the
> acid test with vinagar, the gravel start to bubble very actively in
> the vinagar. I leave the gravel in water for test the ph rise from
6.8
> to 7.6 in one night . I can not beleive a compagny put on the market
a
> non safe product like this.
>



________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17709 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Especialy me

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 20:50
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

"always listen people but never believe them, at
least not before have check what they said."

Even you Gerard? ;)

~L


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 7:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17710 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hagen product not always safe
Yes they answer me than the product may contain some mineral who will have
some buffer capacity, to check often the water with of course their test, so
bottom line this is not a neutral gravel. To avoid unless you make African
cichlid





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Deenerz@...
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 20:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Hagen product not always safe

Have you spoken with a representative from Hagen before posting this?
I am very interested to hear what they have to say on the matter.
Mike




> Hello all I just buy 2 bags of hagen black gravel, when I make the
> acid test with vinagar, the gravel start to bubble very actively in
> the vinagar. I leave the gravel in water for test the ph rise from
6.8
> to 7.6 in one night . I can not beleive a compagny put on the market
a
> non safe product like this.
>



________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17711 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
=) You're a sport...

G' Night!

Leslie


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 8:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish



Especialy me

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 20:50
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

"always listen people but never believe them, at
least not before have check what they said."

Even you Gerard? ;)

~L


<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 7:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

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=Fish%2baquariums%26w4=Marine%2baquarium%2bfish%26w5=Marine%2bfish%2btan
k%26c=5%26s=109%26g=2%26.sig=fNtSo4YaD93P9MKVcPrrHw> fish tank

.

<http://geo.yahoo.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17712 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Leslie what means "you're a sport" ? English is only my second language,
or is it my third ?

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 21:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

=) You're a sport...

G' Night!

Leslie


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 8:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish



Especialy me

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 20:50
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

"always listen people but never believe them, at
least not before have check what they said."

Even you Gerard? ;)

~L


<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 7:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

New Message Search

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> com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
sgId=17706&stime=1153874078>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17713 From: gamingasia Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Poor water quality.
Hi fellow members!

I'm new to the group and already I have questions to ask. I was
wondering if someone can teach me to solve my problem. I have a really
small 4.6L tank which I just purchased yesterday. Inside I have 3 small
water plants, 1 freshwater crab (I have yet to identify), 3 cleaner
snails & 9 Neon Tetras. I have a small hang-on filter which is right
for its size, but the water is really murky. How can I improve on the
water quality? I'm really new to fishes as pets so if someone can
explain in a little more detail to me my situation. Thanks for the help.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17714 From: taginmom@aol.com Date: 7/25/2006
Subject: Re: The Lighthouse Fish Store
This store is where every fish in my aquariums has came from...As a matter
of fact, every fish i've ever owned, they are the only fish store i've ever
bought fish from since i was a small girl...they are located less than 5 mins
from where I work and about 15 from my house...very reputable fish store in our
area...very knowledgeable about their work..


LeAnn

In a message dated 7/25/2006 8:03:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
5moores@... writes:

I order the BioSpira from a company in Tennessee called the Lighthouse
Fish Store, or Lighthouse something. You can google it and it will come
up.
The BioSpira itself isn't too pricey ($15-35 depending on how much you
need), but shipping is high since it's overnight. They offer 2 day but
I don't recommend it during the summer.The live bacteria will get hot
and stay active then die off quickly. They put a gel cool pack in but
it isn't worth much unless you do the overnight.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17715 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Poor water quality.
Welcome, ??? 1- You put to many fish in a too small aquarium, 2- you
put them to fast , the tank is not cycle.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de gamingasia
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 00:17
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Poor water quality.

Hi fellow members!

I'm new to the group and already I have questions to ask. I was
wondering if someone can teach me to solve my problem. I have a really
small 4.6L tank which I just purchased yesterday. Inside I have 3 small
water plants, 1 freshwater crab (I have yet to identify), 3 cleaner
snails & 9 Neon Tetras. I have a small hang-on filter which is right
for its size, but the water is really murky. How can I improve on the
water quality? I'm really new to fishes as pets so if someone can
explain in a little more detail to me my situation. Thanks for the help.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17716 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Who are you ?????
May I ask is it possible too people who post to sign with their name
or a nick one ( if they want stay anonymous) I make 2 hobby, Miniature
train and aquariology, In all the group of train, people sign their
name, in the fish one, it's less frequent.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17717 From: wendie Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
Bio Spira can be purchased online but then you do need to pay the second day
air
fees. I use it all the time and keep water sensitive fish without a
problem. I've added
plecos, loaches, etc immediately after using it without any problems and
these fish
need old settled tanks. The only time I had a problem was when I moved my 4
inch
Yo Yo loaches and I added a nitrite remover and then another Bio Spira pouch
and
that settled everything. I keep several bags on hand just in case I do
something stupid
like I did a couple years ago.... I removed 75% of my fish from one tank and
then trimmed
back and removed half the plants.... oops!!!! I was back to 0 readings
within 12 hours.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 5:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] re starter fish


Kerry bio spira is the best but the problem they don't have in
Montreal,
cycle from Hagen just add few bacteria who will help the good one but
they
don't replace it with the Hagen Cycle or not it's the same I never see
a
difference, me I cycle my tank with ammonia without fish, it take
around
15 days, the ammonia cycle start faster since you already put pure
ammonia

Gerard

do I buy the ammonia at a pet store?? and how much do I put in?
Kerry






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17718 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: re starter fish
It means you take & handle things well it's a compliment. :)
L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 8:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish



Leslie what means "you're a sport" ? English is only my second language,
or is it my third ?

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 21:31
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

=) You're a sport...

G' Night!

Leslie


<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 8:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

Especialy me

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 25 juillet, 2006 20:50
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

"always listen people but never believe them, at
least not before have check what they said."

Even you Gerard? ;)

~L

<http://groups.
<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 7:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re starter fish

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17719 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
You might want to take a look at any book that has the name Dr. John Gratzek attached to it. The Aquariology series has a good boo on disease. Out of print now, but you can find it at used book stores from time to time, or look at the ones offered on Amazon by used book dealers.

Another good book, I'd have to get my sorry behind out of this chair to find the title, was written by vets for vets. It can be pretty tough going. It is a part of a series of books written by vets for vets, and is out of print also. This one is extremely hard to find, but if you have any real interest in it, I can check with some people I know to see if they have a copy available.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 2:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases


Can anyone suggest a good book on identifying and treating fish
diseases? Hopefully once I have cured my guppy I won't need it but
better safe than sorry.

Kerry






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17720 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
The Aquariology Master Volume (John Gratzek) is a good one, who talk about
Anatomy, Physiology, Genetic, Diseases, and general aquarium maintenance,
out of print but available on www.Amazon.com and
http://www.abebooks.com/ so good to buy before no one left.

Steve it's a second time you post about this vet book.... find the title I
still have place for good book ......




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 22:44
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases

You might want to take a look at any book that has the name Dr. John Gratzek
attached to it. The Aquariology series has a good boo on disease. Out of
print now, but you can find it at used book stores from time to time, or
look at the ones offered on Amazon by used book dealers.

Another good book, I'd have to get my sorry behind out of this chair to find
the title, was written by vets for vets. It can be pretty tough going. It is
a part of a series of books written by vets for vets, and is out of print
also. This one is extremely hard to find, but if you have any real interest
in it, I can check with some people I know to see if they have a copy
available.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 2:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases


Can anyone suggest a good book on identifying and treating fish
diseases? Hopefully once I have cured my guppy I won't need it but
better safe than sorry.

Kerry






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17721 From: wendie Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: The Lighthouse Fish Store
That's where I order my Bio Spira from.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of taginmom@...
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 12:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] The Lighthouse Fish Store



This store is where every fish in my aquariums has came from...As a matter
of fact, every fish i've ever owned, they are the only fish store i've
ever
bought fish from since i was a small girl...they are located less than 5
mins
from where I work and about 15 from my house...very reputable fish store
in our
area...very knowledgeable about their work..


LeAnn

In a message dated 7/25/2006 8:03:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
5moores@... writes:

I order the BioSpira from a company in Tennessee called the Lighthouse
Fish Store, or Lighthouse something. You can google it and it will come
up.
The BioSpira itself isn't too pricey ($15-35 depending on how much you
need), but shipping is high since it's overnight. They offer 2 day but
I don't recommend it during the summer.The live bacteria will get hot
and stay active then die off quickly. They put a gel cool pack in but
it isn't worth much unless you do the overnight.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17722 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Poor water quality.
You can't have that many fish in such a small space but mainly you can't
have any fish in there at all until the water is ready for them. That
takes about 6-8 weeks to get it prepared, then you add fish.
They can't live in regular tap water, it will kill them.


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of gamingasia
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 11:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Poor water quality.



Hi fellow members!

I'm new to the group and already I have questions to ask. I was
wondering if someone can teach me to solve my problem. I have a really
small 4.6L tank which I just purchased yesterday. Inside I have 3 small
water plants, 1 freshwater crab (I have yet to identify), 3 cleaner
snails & 9 Neon Tetras. I have a small hang-on filter which is right
for its size, but the water is really murky. How can I improve on the
water quality? I'm really new to fishes as pets so if someone can
explain in a little more detail to me my situation. Thanks for the help.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17723 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: The Lighthouse Fish Store
You're so lucky!
I swear the next time we move I am going to make my decision based on
the closest GOOD fish store. I have to drive an hour to get to a nice
one right now. Because of it, I find myself spending way too much money
on a local store that I would rather not support.

Tell the Lighthouse thank you for me. =)

~Leslie (in Arkansas!)

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of taginmom@...
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 12:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] The Lighthouse Fish Store




This store is where every fish in my aquariums has came from...As a
matter
of fact, every fish i've ever owned, they are the only fish store i've
ever
bought fish from since i was a small girl...they are located less than 5
mins
from where I work and about 15 from my house...very reputable fish store
in our
area...very knowledgeable about their work..


LeAnn

In a message dated 7/25/2006 8:03:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net writes:

I order the BioSpira from a company in Tennessee called the Lighthouse
Fish Store, or Lighthouse something. You can google it and it will come
up.
The BioSpira itself isn't too pricey ($15-35 depending on how much you
need), but shipping is high since it's overnight. They offer 2 day but
I don't recommend it during the summer.The live bacteria will get hot
and stay active then die off quickly. They put a gel cool pack in but
it isn't worth much unless you do the overnight.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17724 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Gerard, It may be possible that the book which is trying to be
remembered may (or may not) be "Koi Health and Diseases" by Erik L.
Johnson, D.V.M., which is excellent for pond fish but also quite
relevant to aquarium fishes, as it covers most common fungal, viral,
bacterial and parasitic protozoan diseases contracted by these fish.
It also goes into the basics of water quality and the nitrogen cycle.

Incidentally, "Aquariology -- Master Volume", while going into other
topics of interest, also delves into fish genetics by the recently
deceased Dr. Joanne Norton who's work in this field with using
Livebearers is world reknown. Her writings in this book go into some
depth in the genetics of Angelfish and the environmental aspects of
some of their strains. A "must" book to have! Another decent book
on the disease subject, which may have already been mentioned (as I
don't quite recall) is "The Manual of Fish Health" by Dr. Chris
Andrews, Adrian Exell and Dr. Neville Carrigton. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> The Aquariology Master Volume (John Gratzek) is a good one, who
talk about
> Anatomy, Physiology, Genetic, Diseases, and general aquarium
maintenance,
> out of print but available on www.Amazon.com and
> http://www.abebooks.com/ so good to buy before no one left.
>
> Steve it's a second time you post about this vet book.... find the
title I
> still have place for good book ......
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 22:44
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
>
> You might want to take a look at any book that has the name Dr.
John Gratzek
> attached to it. The Aquariology series has a good boo on disease.
Out of
> print now, but you can find it at used book stores from time to
time, or
> look at the ones offered on Amazon by used book dealers.
>
> Another good book, I'd have to get my sorry behind out of this
chair to find
> the title, was written by vets for vets. It can be pretty tough
going. It is
> a part of a series of books written by vets for vets, and is out of
print
> also. This one is extremely hard to find, but if you have any real
interest
> in it, I can check with some people I know to see if they have a
copy
> available.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of mytiel123
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 2:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
>
>
> Can anyone suggest a good book on identifying and treating fish
> diseases? Hopefully once I have cured my guppy I won't need it but
> better safe than sorry.
>
> Kerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17725 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Thanks Ray I will get the book on Koi since next spring I will dig my first
pond,to put koi, actually it's not true, I build the lake where I leave in
making excavation, and dam the river 20 years ago. 2000 feet long. 150-
300 feet wide,

As the start of this tread I first recommend the book on fish health from
Chris Andrews, it's by far the best book to start with, good picture, easy
to read. An other good book from Andrews is the Hobbyist Guide to natural
Aquarium, Interesting because he suggest many type of biotope with the tank
size and what fish and plant to put in it, but they have mistake in the
translation of the gallon use, the fish tank size is good but not the
gallon. Probably it's make by tetra in Germany, so they make a mistake in
the conversion litre to gallon.





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Raymond Wetzel
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 11:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: books on fish diseases

Gerard, It may be possible that the book which is trying to be
remembered may (or may not) be "Koi Health and Diseases" by Erik L.
Johnson, D.V.M., which is excellent for pond fish but also quite
relevant to aquarium fishes, as it covers most common fungal, viral,
bacterial and parasitic protozoan diseases contracted by these fish.
It also goes into the basics of water quality and the nitrogen cycle.

Incidentally, "Aquariology -- Master Volume", while going into other
topics of interest, also delves into fish genetics by the recently
deceased Dr. Joanne Norton who's work in this field with using
Livebearers is world reknown. Her writings in this book go into some
depth in the genetics of Angelfish and the environmental aspects of
some of their strains. A "must" book to have! Another decent book
on the disease subject, which may have already been mentioned (as I
don't quite recall) is "The Manual of Fish Health" by Dr. Chris
Andrews, Adrian Exell and Dr. Neville Carrigton. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> The Aquariology Master Volume (John Gratzek) is a good one, who
talk about
> Anatomy, Physiology, Genetic, Diseases, and general aquarium
maintenance,
> out of print but available on www.Amazon.com and
> http://www.abebooks.com/ so good to buy before no one left.
>
> Steve it's a second time you post about this vet book.... find the
title I
> still have place for good book ......
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 22:44
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
>
> You might want to take a look at any book that has the name Dr.
John Gratzek
> attached to it. The Aquariology series has a good boo on disease.
Out of
> print now, but you can find it at used book stores from time to
time, or
> look at the ones offered on Amazon by used book dealers.
>
> Another good book, I'd have to get my sorry behind out of this
chair to find
> the title, was written by vets for vets. It can be pretty tough
going. It is
> a part of a series of books written by vets for vets, and is out of
print
> also. This one is extremely hard to find, but if you have any real
interest
> in it, I can check with some people I know to see if they have a
copy
> available.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of mytiel123
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 2:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
>
>
> Can anyone suggest a good book on identifying and treating fish
> diseases? Hopefully once I have cured my guppy I won't need it but
> better safe than sorry.
>
> Kerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17726 From: Jonathan Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Frontosa lying on bottom
One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
bit?

75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
month so I did a larger water change then usual.

Thanks in advance,
jonFREY
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17727 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are ?

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom

One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
bit?

75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
month so I did a larger water change then usual.

Thanks in advance,
jonFREY







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17728 From: Jonathan Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
I have 11 fish,

5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
1 Neolamprologus leleupi
1 Neolamprologus brichardi
1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
1 bristle nose pleco
1 synodontis eupterus
1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)

jonFREY

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are ?
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> bit?
>
> 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> month so I did a larger water change then usual.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> jonFREY
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17729 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
You have a lot of fish in this tank, when you move the stone, I suppose it
make a lot of mess in the aquarium from the debris in bottom, have you check
your ammonia and nitrite level ? when you mix thing in water , sometime it
increase the level of nitrogen more than the bacterial can handle. in
other hand if you think it's stress, so more psychological than
physiological , don’t put salt or stress coat, or what ever other
medicine in the tank, it's a value aquarium,



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

I have 11 fish,

5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
1 Neolamprologus leleupi
1 Neolamprologus brichardi
1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
1 bristle nose pleco
1 synodontis eupterus
1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)

jonFREY

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are ?
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> bit?
>
> 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> month so I did a larger water change then usual.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> jonFREY








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17730 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
Fish
Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need in times
of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies heavy
metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.


By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have when you
change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to ammonia ph
and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a shrink
in bottle. Check your water parameter first.





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

I have 11 fish,

5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
1 Neolamprologus leleupi
1 Neolamprologus brichardi
1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
1 bristle nose pleco
1 synodontis eupterus
1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)

jonFREY

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are ?
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> bit?
>
> 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> month so I did a larger water change then usual.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> jonFREY








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17731 From: Jonathan Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Amonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
ph: is about 8.0-8.4

This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
peas in a breeder net.

jonFREY


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> Fish
> Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
in times
> of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
heavy
> metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
>
>
> By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have when you
> change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
ammonia ph
> and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
shrink
> in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> I have 11 fish,
>
> 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> 1 bristle nose pleco
> 1 synodontis eupterus
> 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
?
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > bit?
> >
> > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > jonFREY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17732 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank, and hope
for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know well
the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and nearly
nothing on the psychological one of the fish






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Amonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
ph: is about 8.0-8.4

This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
peas in a breeder net.

jonFREY


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> Fish
> Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
in times
> of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
heavy
> metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
>
>
> By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have when you
> change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
ammonia ph
> and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
shrink
> in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> I have 11 fish,
>
> 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> 1 bristle nose pleco
> 1 synodontis eupterus
> 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
?
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > bit?
> >
> > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > jonFREY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17733 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Giant Gouramis
Out of curiosity, how big a tank would a true Giant Gourami need?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17734 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Giant Gouramis
The fish come 70cm long ( more than 2 feet) the consummation of oxygen
depend on the weight. How much will weight your fish ?






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 15:34
À : TropicalFishConnection@yahoogroups.com;
tropicalfishclub@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Giant Gouramis

Out of curiosity, how big a tank would a true Giant Gourami need?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17735 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Does he have a swollen belly or stringy white feces? I am treating my
Africans for bloat as we speak. Not eating and hiding are two key symptoms.
I lost one and am treating the others successfully (so far). The bloat in
my tank was stress-related…I re-arranged the rockwork causing the dominant
males to fight.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom



So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank, and hope
for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know well
the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and nearly
nothing on the psychological one of the fish

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Amonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
ph: is about 8.0-8.4

This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
peas in a breeder net.

jonFREY

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> Fish
> Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
in times
> of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
heavy
> metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
>
>
> By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have when you
> change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
ammonia ph
> and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
shrink
> in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> I have 11 fish,
>
> 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> 1 bristle nose pleco
> 1 synodontis eupterus
> 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
?
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > bit?
> >
> > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > jonFREY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17736 From: Jonathan Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
He does have a swollen belly, but ever since I have had him he has had
a swollen belly thats why I think he looks like a ryukin (chubby
goldfish) and he has the markings of a frontosa. I got him 3-4 years
ago. His main symptom is floating to the top of the tank upside down.
He can't turn right side up, or he can but it takes effort and he
floats back up to the top eventually. It's pretty extreme and sad. I
heard feeding him peas would be the best thing or frozen daphnia. So
far he hasn't eaten any of my peas. I will look into bloat, is it the
same as swim bladder disease? Thanks for the response.

jonFREY

p.s Thankyou Gérard for responding as well. I will keep you updated
on how it goes.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> Does he have a swollen belly or stringy white feces? I am treating my
> Africans for bloat as we speak. Not eating and hiding are two key
symptoms.
> I lost one and am treating the others successfully (so far). The
bloat in
> my tank was stress-related…I re-arranged the rockwork causing the
dominant
> males to fight.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:01 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
>
>
> So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
> Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
> severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank,
and hope
> for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know
well
> the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and
nearly
> nothing on the psychological one of the fish
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> Amonia: 0ppm
> nitrite: 0ppm
> nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
> ph: is about 8.0-8.4
>
> This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
> may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
> peas in a breeder net.
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> > Fish
> > Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
> in times
> > of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
> heavy
> > metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> > changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
> >
> >
> > By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have
when you
> > change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
> ammonia ph
> > and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
> shrink
> > in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > I have 11 fish,
> >
> > 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> > 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> > 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> > 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> > 1 bristle nose pleco
> > 1 synodontis eupterus
> > 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
> >
> > jonFREY
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> > >
> > > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
> ?
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] De la
> > > part de Jonathan
> > > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> > >
> > > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing
heavily,
> > > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to
well
> > > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > > bit?
> > >
> > > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > jonFREY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17737 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Sounds like he is pretty far gone. Here is a link, it may be too late for
him but others in the tank may get it too. Bloat is an intestinal parasite.



http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=24132



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jonathan
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 5:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom



He does have a swollen belly, but ever since I have had him he has had
a swollen belly thats why I think he looks like a ryukin (chubby
goldfish) and he has the markings of a frontosa. I got him 3-4 years
ago. His main symptom is floating to the top of the tank upside down.
He can't turn right side up, or he can but it takes effort and he
floats back up to the top eventually. It's pretty extreme and sad. I
heard feeding him peas would be the best thing or frozen daphnia. So
far he hasn't eaten any of my peas. I will look into bloat, is it the
same as swim bladder disease? Thanks for the response.

jonFREY

p.s Thankyou Gérard for responding as well. I will keep you updated
on how it goes.
--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> Does he have a swollen belly or stringy white feces? I am treating my
> Africans for bloat as we speak. Not eating and hiding are two key
symptoms.
> I lost one and am treating the others successfully (so far). The
bloat in
> my tank was stress-related…I re-arranged the rockwork causing the
dominant
> males to fight.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:01 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
>
>
> So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
> Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
> severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank,
and hope
> for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know
well
> the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and
nearly
> nothing on the psychological one of the fish
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> Amonia: 0ppm
> nitrite: 0ppm
> nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
> ph: is about 8.0-8.4
>
> This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
> may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
> peas in a breeder net.
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> > Fish
> > Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
> in times
> > of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
> heavy
> > metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> > changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
> >
> >
> > By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have
when you
> > change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
> ammonia ph
> > and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
> shrink
> > in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > I have 11 fish,
> >
> > 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> > 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> > 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> > 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> > 1 bristle nose pleco
> > 1 synodontis eupterus
> > 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
> >
> > jonFREY
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> > >
> > > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
> ?
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] De la
> > > part de Jonathan
> > > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> > >
> > > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing
heavily,
> > > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to
well
> > > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > > bit?
> > >
> > > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > jonFREY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17738 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Before use this treatment go to the website of Aquarium to read the
recommendation

http://www.aq-products.com/Catalog/DIRECTIONS/CLOUT.htm



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 17:20
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Sounds like he is pretty far gone. Here is a link, it may be too late for
him but others in the tank may get it too. Bloat is an intestinal parasite.



http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=24132



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jonathan
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 5:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom



He does have a swollen belly, but ever since I have had him he has had
a swollen belly thats why I think he looks like a ryukin (chubby
goldfish) and he has the markings of a frontosa. I got him 3-4 years
ago. His main symptom is floating to the top of the tank upside down.
He can't turn right side up, or he can but it takes effort and he
floats back up to the top eventually. It's pretty extreme and sad. I
heard feeding him peas would be the best thing or frozen daphnia. So
far he hasn't eaten any of my peas. I will look into bloat, is it the
same as swim bladder disease? Thanks for the response.

jonFREY

p.s Thankyou Gérard for responding as well. I will keep you updated
on how it goes.
--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> Does he have a swollen belly or stringy white feces? I am treating my
> Africans for bloat as we speak. Not eating and hiding are two key
symptoms.
> I lost one and am treating the others successfully (so far). The
bloat in
> my tank was stress-related…I re-arranged the rockwork causing the
dominant
> males to fight.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:01 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
>
>
> So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
> Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
> severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank,
and hope
> for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know
well
> the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and
nearly
> nothing on the psychological one of the fish
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> Amonia: 0ppm
> nitrite: 0ppm
> nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
> ph: is about 8.0-8.4
>
> This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
> may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
> peas in a breeder net.
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> > Fish
> > Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
> in times
> > of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
> heavy
> > metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> > changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
> >
> >
> > By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have
when you
> > change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
> ammonia ph
> > and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
> shrink
> > in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > I have 11 fish,
> >
> > 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> > 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> > 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> > 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> > 1 bristle nose pleco
> > 1 synodontis eupterus
> > 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
> >
> > jonFREY
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> > >
> > > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
> ?
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] De la
> > > part de Jonathan
> > > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> > >
> > > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing
heavily,
> > > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to
well
> > > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > > bit?
> > >
> > > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > jonFREY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17739 From: micheal03us Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: zebra danio
Hi,
I just noticed when I got home from work today that one of my danios
is taken to swimming straight up and down. He'll do it for a minute
then swim right then do it agian, He goes to the top of the water then
the middle. He wasn't doing it when I left this morning. could
something be wrong with his swim bladder or is it something that they
do every now and then? Karen.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17740 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Certain of my fish do this endlessly for several days when then are moved to
a new tank, then they adjust. My catfish also like to swim up the glass and
against the current of the filter return.



If it were swim bladder, he would not be able to swim right for any period
of time.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of micheal03us
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 7:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] zebra danio



Hi,
I just noticed when I got home from work today that one of my danios
is taken to swimming straight up and down. He'll do it for a minute
then swim right then do it agian, He goes to the top of the water then
the middle. He wasn't doing it when I left this morning. could
something be wrong with his swim bladder or is it something that they
do every now and then? Karen.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17741 From: taginmom@aol.com Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
my cory cats do the same thing... they swin up to the very top of the tank
and swim against the current..

In a message dated 7/26/2006 8:39:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
djransome@... writes:

My catfish also like to swim up the glass and
against the current of the filter return





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17742 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
For Cory it's normal, the put air in their bladder







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de taginmom@...
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 21:05
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] zebra danio


my cory cats do the same thing... they swin up to the very top of the tank
and swim against the current..

In a message dated 7/26/2006 8:39:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
djransome@... writes:

My catfish also like to swim up the glass and
against the current of the filter return





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17743 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
My cats are Synodontis Petricola, and the others who do this are
Labidochromis Caeruleus Yellow Lab. To me it seems like the cats are
playing, and the labs are neurotic.





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 9:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio



For Cory it's normal, the put air in their bladder

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de taginmom@aol. <mailto:taginmom%40aol.com> com
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 21:05
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] zebra danio

my cory cats do the same thing... they swin up to the very top of the tank
and swim against the current..

In a message dated 7/26/2006 8:39:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
djransome@optonline <mailto:djransome%40optonline.net> .net writes:

My catfish also like to swim up the glass and
against the current of the filter return

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17744 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Actually it's not in the swim bladder , the cory breath air for 2 reasons,
they use it first in the low water oxygen ,as an auxiliary oxygen supply,
they put air in their intestine and release it by the anus. The second
reason is to use the intestine as swim bladder. Some pleco do the same they
put air in their stomach for after release it to the gill
Sorry for the rough explanation,






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 21:23
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio

For Cory it's normal, the put air in their bladder







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de taginmom@...
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 21:05
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] zebra danio


my cory cats do the same thing... they swin up to the very top of the tank
and swim against the current..

In a message dated 7/26/2006 8:39:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
djransome@... writes:

My catfish also like to swim up the glass and
against the current of the filter return





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links










Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17745 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Donna what you means by bloat, (air in the intestine? ) it's a common
sickness for caw , but for fish I never ear as a sickness, a symptoms yes .
except than you have a sickness call Malawi bloat ( other name for dropsy)
because if it was dropsy the scale will be 90 degree off.





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 16:42
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Does he have a swollen belly or stringy white feces? I am treating my
Africans for bloat as we speak. Not eating and hiding are two key symptoms.
I lost one and am treating the others successfully (so far). The bloat in
my tank was stress-related…I re-arranged the rockwork causing the dominant
males to fight.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom



So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank, and hope
for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know well
the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and nearly
nothing on the psychological one of the fish

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Amonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
ph: is about 8.0-8.4

This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
peas in a breeder net.

jonFREY

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> Fish
> Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
in times
> of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
heavy
> metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
>
>
> By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have when you
> change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
ammonia ph
> and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
shrink
> in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> I have 11 fish,
>
> 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> 1 bristle nose pleco
> 1 synodontis eupterus
> 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
?
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > bit?
> >
> > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > jonFREY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17746 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
According to my reading, bloat is not air in the intestine and it is not
dropsy. But it IS a.k.a. Malawi bloat (not limited to Malawi’s).



Here is another link to the cichlid-forum describing what is known today
about the sickness, the most prevalent disease of African cichlids and
believed to be caused by a protozoal parasite.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/malawi_bloat.php



The article is a little outdated…discussions in the forums these days are
leaning away from diet alone as the cause and toward stress. The stress can
be caused by anything, including poor diet. It is believed the protozoans
reside in the intestine all the time, and only cause trouble when the fish
are stressed.







_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 10:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom



Donna what you means by bloat, (air in the intestine? ) it's a common
sickness for caw , but for fish I never ear as a sickness, a symptoms yes .
except than you have a sickness call Malawi bloat ( other name for dropsy)
because if it was dropsy the scale will be 90 degree off.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 16:42
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Does he have a swollen belly or stringy white feces? I am treating my
Africans for bloat as we speak. Not eating and hiding are two key symptoms.
I lost one and am treating the others successfully (so far). The bloat in
my tank was stress-related…I re-arranged the rockwork causing the dominant
males to fight.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank, and hope
for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know well
the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and nearly
nothing on the psychological one of the fish

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Amonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
ph: is about 8.0-8.4

This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
peas in a breeder net.

jonFREY

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> Fish
> Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
in times
> of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
heavy
> metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
>
>
> By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have when you
> change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
ammonia ph
> and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
shrink
> in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> I have 11 fish,
>
> 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> 1 bristle nose pleco
> 1 synodontis eupterus
> 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
?
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > bit?
> >
> > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > jonFREY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17747 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Thanks for the link, I have to said I'm not a expert in African Cichlid I
never own one



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 23:29
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

According to my reading, bloat is not air in the intestine and it is not
dropsy. But it IS a.k.a. Malawi bloat (not limited to Malawi’s).



Here is another link to the cichlid-forum describing what is known today
about the sickness, the most prevalent disease of African cichlids and
believed to be caused by a protozoal parasite.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/malawi_bloat.php



The article is a little outdated…discussions in the forums these days are
leaning away from diet alone as the cause and toward stress. The stress can
be caused by anything, including poor diet. It is believed the protozoans
reside in the intestine all the time, and only cause trouble when the fish
are stressed.







_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 10:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom



Donna what you means by bloat, (air in the intestine? ) it's a common
sickness for caw , but for fish I never ear as a sickness, a symptoms yes .
except than you have a sickness call Malawi bloat ( other name for dropsy)
because if it was dropsy the scale will be 90 degree off.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 16:42
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Does he have a swollen belly or stringy white feces? I am treating my
Africans for bloat as we speak. Not eating and hiding are two key symptoms.
I lost one and am treating the others successfully (so far). The bloat in
my tank was stress-related…I re-arranged the rockwork causing the dominant
males to fight.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank, and hope
for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know well
the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and nearly
nothing on the psychological one of the fish

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Amonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
ph: is about 8.0-8.4

This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
peas in a breeder net.

jonFREY

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> Fish
> Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
in times
> of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
heavy
> metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
>
>
> By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have when you
> change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
ammonia ph
> and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
shrink
> in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> I have 11 fish,
>
> 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> 1 bristle nose pleco
> 1 synodontis eupterus
> 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
?
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > bit?
> >
> > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > jonFREY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17748 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/26/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish and quarantine tanks
Kerry.

If you keep a small sponge filter running in your main tank, All you need to
do is to add water a and fish to your ten gallon when you need to. Adding
the sponge filter provides you with ready made, immediate biological
filtration. Also, in your main tank, you may notice the smaller fish
nibbling at the filter. This is because it will provide nourishment for
those fish, in the form of bacteria similar to those found in infusoria.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 5:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] starter fish and quarantine tanks

I just bought a ten gallon tank to use as a quarantine tank for new
fish to be added to my main tank and hopefully never to be used for
sick fish.
the next fish I want to add to my main tank are zebra danios and a few
months down the line dwarf gouramis. Are danios good fish to cycle a
new tank??
my other question is once you have stocked the tank with all the fish
and the quarantine tank is empty how do you keep it healthy for when
you need it if there are no fish in it??

Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17749 From: Karen Millett Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Well, this morning he's definately nto swimming right at all. He's swimming and tring to eat but he's turning round and round almost constantly. Karen.
>
> From: Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
> Date: 2006/07/26 Wed PM 08:37:47 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio
>
> Certain of my fish do this endlessly for several days when then are moved to
> a new tank, then they adjust. My catfish also like to swim up the glass and
> against the current of the filter return.
>
>
>
> If it were swim bladder, he would not be able to swim right for any period
> of time.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of micheal03us
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 7:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] zebra danio
>
>
>
> Hi,
> I just noticed when I got home from work today that one of my danios
> is taken to swimming straight up and down. He'll do it for a minute
> then swim right then do it agian, He goes to the top of the water then
> the middle. He wasn't doing it when I left this morning. could
> something be wrong with his swim bladder or is it something that they
> do every now and then? Karen.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17750 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
I’m not an expert either, but I’m learning!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 11:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom



Thanks for the link, I have to said I'm not a expert in African Cichlid I
never own one

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 23:29
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

According to my reading, bloat is not air in the intestine and it is not
dropsy. But it IS a.k.a. Malawi bloat (not limited to Malawi’s).

Here is another link to the cichlid-forum describing what is known today
about the sickness, the most prevalent disease of African cichlids and
believed to be caused by a protozoal parasite.
http://www.cichlid- <http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/malawi_bloat.php>
forum.com/articles/malawi_bloat.php

The article is a little outdated…discussions in the forums these days are
leaning away from diet alone as the cause and toward stress. The stress can
be caused by anything, including poor diet. It is believed the protozoans
reside in the intestine all the time, and only cause trouble when the fish
are stressed.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 10:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Donna what you means by bloat, (air in the intestine? ) it's a common
sickness for caw , but for fish I never ear as a sickness, a symptoms yes .
except than you have a sickness call Malawi bloat ( other name for dropsy)
because if it was dropsy the scale will be 90 degree off.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 16:42
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Does he have a swollen belly or stringy white feces? I am treating my
Africans for bloat as we speak. Not eating and hiding are two key symptoms.
I lost one and am treating the others successfully (so far). The bloat in
my tank was stress-related…I re-arranged the rockwork causing the dominant
males to fight.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank, and hope
for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know well
the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and nearly
nothing on the psychological one of the fish

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Amonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
ph: is about 8.0-8.4

This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
peas in a breeder net.

jonFREY

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> Fish
> Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
in times
> of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
heavy
> metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
>
>
> By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have when you
> change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
ammonia ph
> and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
shrink
> in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> I have 11 fish,
>
> 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> 1 bristle nose pleco
> 1 synodontis eupterus
> 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
?
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > bit?
> >
> > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > jonFREY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17751 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
I don’t know anything about these symptoms or how to treat, maybe Gerard or
Steve or Ray can help.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Karen Millett
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 5:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio



Well, this morning he's definately nto swimming right at all. He's swimming
and tring to eat but he's turning round and round almost constantly. Karen.
>
> From: Donna Ransome <djransome@optonline
<mailto:djransome%40optonline.net> .net>
> Date: 2006/07/26 Wed PM 08:37:47 EST
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio
>
> Certain of my fish do this endlessly for several days when then are moved
to
> a new tank, then they adjust. My catfish also like to swim up the glass
and
> against the current of the filter return.
>
>
>
> If it were swim bladder, he would not be able to swim right for any period
> of time.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of micheal03us
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 7:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] zebra danio
>
>
>
> Hi,
> I just noticed when I got home from work today that one of my danios
> is taken to swimming straight up and down. He'll do it for a minute
> then swim right then do it agian, He goes to the top of the water then
> the middle. He wasn't doing it when I left this morning. could
> something be wrong with his swim bladder or is it something that they
> do every now and then? Karen.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17752 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Personally keep few different cichlids, mine in general are pretty kicked back as they are used to me messing in their tanks regularly for one reason or another. They do stress on occassion for one reason or another, have found that if I go back to what it was before I changed something this seems to help.
Did have frontosas for a while so my experience with them is limited, along with other fish from the same area they seemed to be more easily stressed per say than other cichlids. Thus the bloat can be caused by more than just diet as someone has said or read, with my fish have had so few cases of bloat been fortunate in this area but when it does get ahold of them it is not always a good ending some are harder to get back on their fins than others.

Shannon

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
I’m not an expert either, but I’m learning!

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 11:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Thanks for the link, I have to said I'm not a expert in African Cichlid I
never own one

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 23:29
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

According to my reading, bloat is not air in the intestine and it is not
dropsy. But it IS a.k.a. Malawi bloat (not limited to Malawi’s).

Here is another link to the cichlid-forum describing what is known today
about the sickness, the most prevalent disease of African cichlids and
believed to be caused by a protozoal parasite.
http://www.cichlid- <http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/malawi_bloat.php>
forum.com/articles/malawi_bloat.php

The article is a little outdated…discussions in the forums these days are
leaning away from diet alone as the cause and toward stress. The stress can
be caused by anything, including poor diet. It is believed the protozoans
reside in the intestine all the time, and only cause trouble when the fish
are stressed.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 10:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Donna what you means by bloat, (air in the intestine? ) it's a common
sickness for caw , but for fish I never ear as a sickness, a symptoms yes .
except than you have a sickness call Malawi bloat ( other name for dropsy)
because if it was dropsy the scale will be 90 degree off.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 16:42
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Does he have a swollen belly or stringy white feces? I am treating my
Africans for bloat as we speak. Not eating and hiding are two key symptoms.
I lost one and am treating the others successfully (so far). The bloat in
my tank was stress-related…I re-arranged the rockwork causing the dominant
males to fight.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank, and hope
for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know well
the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and nearly
nothing on the psychological one of the fish

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Amonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
ph: is about 8.0-8.4

This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
peas in a breeder net.

jonFREY

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> Fish
> Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
in times
> of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
heavy
> metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
>
>
> By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have when you
> change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
ammonia ph
> and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
shrink
> in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> I have 11 fish,
>
> 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> 1 bristle nose pleco
> 1 synodontis eupterus
> 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
?
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > bit?
> >
> > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > jonFREY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17753 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
I was told yesterday that you can add a garlic substance to food to ward
off parasites. Does anyone else know of this? Should I be leary of
anything (other than salt?)

Also, my giant danio looks like he is about to blow up w/ constipation.
He won't eat peas, none of the fish will. What do I for him? He looks
so miserable, he just sits in the corner looking hurt. And his colors
are changing.

Thanks!
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17754 From: Karen Millett Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Thanks but he's gone. He died later in the morning. Karen.
>
> From: Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
> Date: 2006/07/27 Thu AM 12:25:40 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio
>
> I don’t know anything about these symptoms or how to treat, maybe Gerard or
> Steve or Ray can help.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Karen Millett
> Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 5:36 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio
>
>
>
> Well, this morning he's definately nto swimming right at all. He's swimming
> and tring to eat but he's turning round and round almost constantly. Karen.
> >
> > From: Donna Ransome <djransome@optonline
> <mailto:djransome%40optonline.net> .net>
> > Date: 2006/07/26 Wed PM 08:37:47 EST
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio
> >
> > Certain of my fish do this endlessly for several days when then are moved
> to
> > a new tank, then they adjust. My catfish also like to swim up the glass
> and
> > against the current of the filter return.
> >
> >
> >
> > If it were swim bladder, he would not be able to swim right for any period
> > of time.
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of micheal03us
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 7:50 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] zebra danio
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> > I just noticed when I got home from work today that one of my danios
> > is taken to swimming straight up and down. He'll do it for a minute
> > then swim right then do it agian, He goes to the top of the water then
> > the middle. He wasn't doing it when I left this morning. could
> > something be wrong with his swim bladder or is it something that they
> > do every now and then? Karen.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17755 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
Thanks for your link on the sickness , but what I found interesting they
don't know if it's a bacteria or a parasites, it's very simple they just
have to make a autopsy of the dead fish, parasites are not hard to find in
intestines. The problem with fish sickness is they put all the money in the
research of one who affect the trout salmon tilapia and other fish where the
industries of food make a lot of money, so little are made for the other
fish, I don't blame anyone here, Like by example this Malawi bloat, I have
few microscope and I have someone who can make me culture of some tissue of
the intestine, but I don't have those fish especially the one with this
sickness, not because I don't like the Cichlid from Africa, but for
limitation I keep only south America Fish




-Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 27 juillet, 2006 05:42
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

I’m not an expert either, but I’m learning!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 11:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom



Thanks for the link, I have to said I'm not a expert in African Cichlid I
never own one

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 23:29
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

According to my reading, bloat is not air in the intestine and it is not
dropsy. But it IS a.k.a. Malawi bloat (not limited to Malawi’s).

Here is another link to the cichlid-forum describing what is known today
about the sickness, the most prevalent disease of African cichlids and
believed to be caused by a protozoal parasite.
http://www.cichlid- <http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/malawi_bloat.php>
forum.com/articles/malawi_bloat.php

The article is a little outdated…discussions in the forums these days are
leaning away from diet alone as the cause and toward stress. The stress can
be caused by anything, including poor diet. It is believed the protozoans
reside in the intestine all the time, and only cause trouble when the fish
are stressed.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 10:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Donna what you means by bloat, (air in the intestine? ) it's a common
sickness for caw , but for fish I never ear as a sickness, a symptoms yes .
except than you have a sickness call Malawi bloat ( other name for dropsy)
because if it was dropsy the scale will be 90 degree off.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 16:42
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Does he have a swollen belly or stringy white feces? I am treating my
Africans for bloat as we speak. Not eating and hiding are two key symptoms.
I lost one and am treating the others successfully (so far). The bloat in
my tank was stress-related…I re-arranged the rockwork causing the dominant
males to fight.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

So the problem is not in the nitrogen.
Hard to say, if you put him in quarantine it may make the problem more
severe.. unless you have reason to treat him let him in the tank, and hope
for the best. But even you treat him it will be for what ??? We know well
the parasite sickness, very few on the internal physiologic one and nearly
nothing on the psychological one of the fish

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Jonathan
Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 14:33
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom

Amonia: 0ppm
nitrite: 0ppm
nitrate: 80ppm which is somewhat high.
ph: is about 8.0-8.4

This kinda sucks because I just noticed my front/ryukin retarded fish
may possibley have a swim bladder disease as well and I'm feeding him
peas in a breeder net.

jonFREY

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Re this is the description of stress coat "Stress Coat Conditioner for
> Fish
> Stress Coat replaces the natural protective slime coating fish need
in times
> of stress, removes chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies
heavy
> metals. Use whenever setting up an aqaurium, adding or handling fish,
> changing water or when fish are damaged due to injury or disease.
>
>
> By stress they don't means the type of stress a fish will have when you
> change is rock setting, they means physiological stress due to
ammonia ph
> and other chemical in the water .. it's a water conditioner not a
shrink
> in bottle. Check your water parameter first.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
> part de Jonathan
> Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:44
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Frontosa lying on bottom
>
> I have 11 fish,
>
> 5 Cyphotilapia frontosa (ranging from 4-6")
> 1 Neolamprologus leleupi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi
> 1 Neolamprologus brichardi (dafodil)
> 1 bristle nose pleco
> 1 synodontis eupterus
> 1 retarded front/ryukin looking thing (its awesome)
>
> jonFREY
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > How many fish you have in the tank, what kind and how big they are
?
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Jonathan
> > Envoyé : 26 juillet, 2006 12:07
> > À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Frontosa lying on bottom
> >
> > One of my fronts is lying on the bottom of the tank breathing heavily,
> > the rest of my fish are acting fine, to test just how lazy he was I
> > fed the fish, he didn't budge. I recently did a 35% water change and
> > I rearranged the rock work. The rocks havn't been moved around for
> > about a year. He's in the back of the tank so I can't see him to well
> > due to hiding behind my largest rock. He seems to have a bad case of
> > stress. Did I do to much work to the tank in one day? Any ideas?
> > Maybe I should go buy aquarium salt. Would adding stress coat help a
> > bit?
> >
> > 75 gallon tank with ac500 and a cascade 1000
> > 2 heaters kept at about 80 degrees
> > I try to keep up with weekly water changes but I didn't do one in a
> > month so I did a larger water change then usual.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > jonFREY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17756 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: zebra danio
Is the fish turning in round near the surface ?, What are the color of the
gill , if you can see them, what is the nitrate and ammonia level in the
tank, how behave the other fish, how are the eyes of the fish, you have
to observe as much as possible, if you have other danio compare the color
with them

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 27 juillet, 2006 06:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio

I don’t know anything about these symptoms or how to treat, maybe Gerard or
Steve or Ray can help.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Karen Millett
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 5:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio



Well, this morning he's definately nto swimming right at all. He's swimming
and tring to eat but he's turning round and round almost constantly. Karen.
>
> From: Donna Ransome <djransome@optonline
<mailto:djransome%40optonline.net> .net>
> Date: 2006/07/26 Wed PM 08:37:47 EST
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] zebra danio
>
> Certain of my fish do this endlessly for several days when then are moved
to
> a new tank, then they adjust. My catfish also like to swim up the glass
and
> against the current of the filter return.
>
>
>
> If it were swim bladder, he would not be able to swim right for any period
> of time.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of micheal03us
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 7:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] zebra danio
>
>
>
> Hi,
> I just noticed when I got home from work today that one of my danios
> is taken to swimming straight up and down. He'll do it for a minute
> then swim right then do it agian, He goes to the top of the water then
> the middle. He wasn't doing it when I left this morning. could
> something be wrong with his swim bladder or is it something that they
> do every now and then? Karen.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17757 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: re' starter fish
If you keep a small sponge filter running in your main tank, All you
need to
do is to add water a and fish to your ten gallon when you need to.
Adding
the sponge filter provides you with ready made, immediate biological
filtration. Also, in your main tank, you may notice the smaller fish
nibbling at the filter. This is because it will provide nourishment for
those fish, in the form of bacteria similar to those found in
infusoria.


\\Steve//



When you say a small sponge filter could you send me to a site where I
can see a pic of one.........I told you I was new at this.

Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17758 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: Re: re' starter fish
Kerry here the link for Hagen product you can order them in any pet shop,
the only place I saw them in stock are at aqua tropical,

Here the link http://tinyurl.com/fb2e3

I use a tiny because the real one is too long for yahoo group

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 27 juillet, 2006 19:06
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re' starter fish

If you keep a small sponge filter running in your main tank, All you
need to
do is to add water a and fish to your ten gallon when you need to.
Adding
the sponge filter provides you with ready made, immediate biological
filtration. Also, in your main tank, you may notice the smaller fish
nibbling at the filter. This is because it will provide nourishment for
those fish, in the form of bacteria similar to those found in
infusoria.


\\Steve//



When you say a small sponge filter could you send me to a site where I
can see a pic of one.........I told you I was new at this.

Kerry






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17759 From: John Sychua Date: 7/27/2006
Subject: hello
Hello to all people,
My name is John Sychua, im a Filipino Chinese, 36
years old, single. Im currently staying at Shanghai
china. I like swimming and jogging and walking,
listining to music and reading. I have been caring of
aquarium fishes since my teenage years... i have so
many kinds of fishes, for start ups, i started with
gold fishes and red mollies, then i went on with angel
fishes, catfishes, barbs, then with oscars, arowanas,
knife fish, hammerhead sharks then to discus fishes
but only for a short while because i went out of my
country (philippines) for a long time. when i
returned back, i tended marine fishes as well.



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17760 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Ray,

No, I was not thinking of the Johnson book, but of another book edited by Graztek. It is a volume in a regular series of publications put out for vets.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 11:39 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: books on fish diseases

Gerard, It may be possible that the book which is trying to be
remembered may (or may not) be "Koi Health and Diseases" by Erik L.
Johnson, D.V.M., which is excellent for pond fish but also quite
relevant to aquarium fishes, as it covers most common fungal, viral,
bacterial and parasitic protozoan diseases contracted by these fish.
It also goes into the basics of water quality and the nitrogen cycle.

Incidentally, "Aquariology -- Master Volume", while going into other
topics of interest, also delves into fish genetics by the recently
deceased Dr. Joanne Norton who's work in this field with using
Livebearers is world reknown. Her writings in this book go into some
depth in the genetics of Angelfish and the environmental aspects of
some of their strains. A "must" book to have! Another decent book
on the disease subject, which may have already been mentioned (as I
don't quite recall) is "The Manual of Fish Health" by Dr. Chris
Andrews, Adrian Exell and Dr. Neville Carrigton. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> The Aquariology Master Volume (John Gratzek) is a good one, who
talk about
> Anatomy, Physiology, Genetic, Diseases, and general aquarium
maintenance,
> out of print but available on www.Amazon.com and
> http://www.abebooks.com/ so good to buy before no one left.
>
> Steve it's a second time you post about this vet book.... find the
title I
> still have place for good book ......
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 22:44
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
>
> You might want to take a look at any book that has the name Dr.
John Gratzek
> attached to it. The Aquariology series has a good boo on disease.
Out of
> print now, but you can find it at used book stores from time to
time, or
> look at the ones offered on Amazon by used book dealers.
>
> Another good book, I'd have to get my sorry behind out of this
chair to find
> the title, was written by vets for vets. It can be pretty tough
going. It is
> a part of a series of books written by vets for vets, and is out of
print
> also. This one is extremely hard to find, but if you have any real
interest
> in it, I can check with some people I know to see if they have a
copy
> available.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of mytiel123
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 2:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
>
>
> Can anyone suggest a good book on identifying and treating fish
> diseases? Hopefully once I have cured my guppy I won't need it but
> better safe than sorry.
>
> Kerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17761 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Steve, Not sure if I can help you. While I know of several other
books Gratzek put out, the only other ones I can think of that has
anything to do with diseases are "Fish Diseases and Water Chemistry"
(which may be part of the combined Aquariology - Master Volume before
it was published as one book) and "Fish Anatomy,Physiology and
Nutrition". Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> No, I was not thinking of the Johnson book, but of another book
edited by Graztek. It is a volume in a regular series of publications
put out for vets.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 11:39 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: books on fish diseases
>
> Gerard, It may be possible that the book which is trying to be
> remembered may (or may not) be "Koi Health and Diseases" by Erik L.
> Johnson, D.V.M., which is excellent for pond fish but also quite
> relevant to aquarium fishes, as it covers most common fungal,
viral,
> bacterial and parasitic protozoan diseases contracted by these
fish.
> It also goes into the basics of water quality and the nitrogen
cycle.
>
> Incidentally, "Aquariology -- Master Volume", while going into
other
> topics of interest, also delves into fish genetics by the recently
> deceased Dr. Joanne Norton who's work in this field with using
> Livebearers is world reknown. Her writings in this book go into
some
> depth in the genetics of Angelfish and the environmental aspects of
> some of their strains. A "must" book to have! Another decent book
> on the disease subject, which may have already been mentioned (as I
> don't quite recall) is "The Manual of Fish Health" by Dr. Chris
> Andrews, Adrian Exell and Dr. Neville Carrigton. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > The Aquariology Master Volume (John Gratzek) is a good one, who
> talk about
> > Anatomy, Physiology, Genetic, Diseases, and general aquarium
> maintenance,
> > out of print but available on www.Amazon.com and
> > http://www.abebooks.com/ so good to buy before no one left.
> >
> > Steve it's a second time you post about this vet book.... find
the
> title I
> > still have place for good book ......
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Steve Szabo
> > Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 22:44
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
> >
> > You might want to take a look at any book that has the name Dr.
> John Gratzek
> > attached to it. The Aquariology series has a good boo on disease.
> Out of
> > print now, but you can find it at used book stores from time to
> time, or
> > look at the ones offered on Amazon by used book dealers.
> >
> > Another good book, I'd have to get my sorry behind out of this
> chair to find
> > the title, was written by vets for vets. It can be pretty tough
> going. It is
> > a part of a series of books written by vets for vets, and is out
of
> print
> > also. This one is extremely hard to find, but if you have any
real
> interest
> > in it, I can check with some people I know to see if they have a
> copy
> > available.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of mytiel123
> > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 2:49 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
> >
> >
> > Can anyone suggest a good book on identifying and treating fish
> > diseases? Hopefully once I have cured my guppy I won't need it
but
> > better safe than sorry.
> >
> > Kerry
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17762 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
I have a book from Gratzek, "Fish Farming Handbook" Brown, Gratzek
300 pages , is it this one ?



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Raymond Wetzel
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 09:29
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: books on fish diseases

Steve, Not sure if I can help you. While I know of several other
books Gratzek put out, the only other ones I can think of that has
anything to do with diseases are "Fish Diseases and Water Chemistry"
(which may be part of the combined Aquariology - Master Volume before
it was published as one book) and "Fish Anatomy,Physiology and
Nutrition". Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> No, I was not thinking of the Johnson book, but of another book
edited by Graztek. It is a volume in a regular series of publications
put out for vets.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 11:39 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: books on fish diseases
>
> Gerard, It may be possible that the book which is trying to be
> remembered may (or may not) be "Koi Health and Diseases" by Erik L.
> Johnson, D.V.M., which is excellent for pond fish but also quite
> relevant to aquarium fishes, as it covers most common fungal,
viral,
> bacterial and parasitic protozoan diseases contracted by these
fish.
> It also goes into the basics of water quality and the nitrogen
cycle.
>
> Incidentally, "Aquariology -- Master Volume", while going into
other
> topics of interest, also delves into fish genetics by the recently
> deceased Dr. Joanne Norton who's work in this field with using
> Livebearers is world reknown. Her writings in this book go into
some
> depth in the genetics of Angelfish and the environmental aspects of
> some of their strains. A "must" book to have! Another decent book
> on the disease subject, which may have already been mentioned (as I
> don't quite recall) is "The Manual of Fish Health" by Dr. Chris
> Andrews, Adrian Exell and Dr. Neville Carrigton. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > The Aquariology Master Volume (John Gratzek) is a good one, who
> talk about
> > Anatomy, Physiology, Genetic, Diseases, and general aquarium
> maintenance,
> > out of print but available on www.Amazon.com and
> > http://www.abebooks.com/ so good to buy before no one left.
> >
> > Steve it's a second time you post about this vet book.... find
the
> title I
> > still have place for good book ......
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Steve Szabo
> > Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 22:44
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
> >
> > You might want to take a look at any book that has the name Dr.
> John Gratzek
> > attached to it. The Aquariology series has a good boo on disease.
> Out of
> > print now, but you can find it at used book stores from time to
> time, or
> > look at the ones offered on Amazon by used book dealers.
> >
> > Another good book, I'd have to get my sorry behind out of this
> chair to find
> > the title, was written by vets for vets. It can be pretty tough
> going. It is
> > a part of a series of books written by vets for vets, and is out
of
> print
> > also. This one is extremely hard to find, but if you have any
real
> interest
> > in it, I can check with some people I know to see if they have a
> copy
> > available.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of mytiel123
> > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 2:49 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
> >
> >
> > Can anyone suggest a good book on identifying and treating fish
> > diseases? Hopefully once I have cured my guppy I won't need it
but
> > better safe than sorry.
> >
> > Kerry
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17763 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
This is for the schools tank that will be set up next month. I don't
know the difference in the woods or their effects on the water.
The tank will house community fish w/ angels, rainbows, a gourami,
etc...
I do want to do live plants in this tank so would that make a
difference?

Many thanks,
Leslie

PS
Any advice on my still swollen danio? It looks painful!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17764 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Leslie what ever wood you put will put some tanic acid ( is it the good
word) in the water, actually it's not a real problem since you will
eliminate it in water change, just make sure you let them soak enough in
water before. Actually it's even good , it will keep you ph a little bit
lower. An other thing, the wood brings an other good substrate for the
beneficial bacteria. It's important to use a variety of hard wood know to
not easy rotten in water check it with your finger nail, if they get in
the wood too easy don't buy it , talking of wood I have to go finish my
form, for the foundation of my fish room, the concrete truck come Monday at
8:00 am

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 10:58
À : uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?

This is for the schools tank that will be set up next month. I don't
know the difference in the woods or their effects on the water.
The tank will house community fish w/ angels, rainbows, a gourami,
etc...
I do want to do live plants in this tank so would that make a
difference?

Many thanks,
Leslie

PS
Any advice on my still swollen danio? It looks painful!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17765 From: MIke Schornak Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Also if you at some point want to put plecostomus in the tank, they love wood, they will also get fiber from it.

Mike

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
Leslie what ever wood you put will put some tanic acid ( is it the good
word) in the water, actually it's not a real problem since you will
eliminate it in water change, just make sure you let them soak enough in
water before. Actually it's even good , it will keep you ph a little bit
lower. An other thing, the wood brings an other good substrate for the
beneficial bacteria. It's important to use a variety of hard wood know to
not easy rotten in water check it with your finger nail, if they get in
the wood too easy don't buy it , talking of wood I have to go finish my
form, for the foundation of my fish room, the concrete truck come Monday at
8:00 am

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 10:58
À : uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?

This is for the schools tank that will be set up next month. I don't
know the difference in the woods or their effects on the water.
The tank will house community fish w/ angels, rainbows, a gourami,
etc...
I do want to do live plants in this tank so would that make a
difference?

Many thanks,
Leslie

PS
Any advice on my still swollen danio? It looks painful!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17766 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
I plan on getting an albino bristlenose, another reason I think I should
do real wood.
Thanks!
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of MIke Schornak
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 12:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?



Also if you at some point want to put plecostomus in the tank, they love
wood, they will also get fiber from it.

Mike

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote:
Leslie what ever wood you put will put some tanic acid ( is it the good
word) in the water, actually it's not a real problem since you will
eliminate it in water change, just make sure you let them soak enough in
water before. Actually it's even good , it will keep you ph a little bit
lower. An other thing, the wood brings an other good substrate for the
beneficial bacteria. It's important to use a variety of hard wood know
to
not easy rotten in water check it with your finger nail, if they get in
the wood too easy don't buy it , talking of wood I have to go finish my
form, for the foundation of my fish room, the concrete truck come Monday
at
8:00 am

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 10:58
À : uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?

This is for the schools tank that will be set up next month. I don't
know the difference in the woods or their effects on the water.
The tank will house community fish w/ angels, rainbows, a gourami,
etc...
I do want to do live plants in this tank so would that make a
difference?

Many thanks,
Leslie

PS
Any advice on my still swollen danio? It looks painful!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17767 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Yes thank Mike , Leslie , I forgot it your Farlowella (than you plan to
buy) will need it for the same reason



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de MIke Schornak
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 13:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?

Also if you at some point want to put plecostomus in the tank, they love
wood, they will also get fiber from it.

Mike

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
Leslie what ever wood you put will put some tanic acid ( is it the
good
word) in the water, actually it's not a real problem since you will
eliminate it in water change, just make sure you let them soak enough in
water before. Actually it's even good , it will keep you ph a little bit
lower. An other thing, the wood brings an other good substrate for the
beneficial bacteria. It's important to use a variety of hard wood know to
not easy rotten in water check it with your finger nail, if they get in
the wood too easy don't buy it , talking of wood I have to go finish my
form, for the foundation of my fish room, the concrete truck come Monday at
8:00 am

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 10:58
À : uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?

This is for the schools tank that will be set up next month. I don't
know the difference in the woods or their effects on the water.
The tank will house community fish w/ angels, rainbows, a gourami,
etc...
I do want to do live plants in this tank so would that make a
difference?

Many thanks,
Leslie

PS
Any advice on my still swollen danio? It looks painful!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17768 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: My web site
Hello all, one of my main interests in the hobby, is to make the fish
more comfortable, so for that I have 2 projects, the first one is to
build a new fish room to make experiment with product and technique to
make our fish more healthy. The second project is to make a website,
free of advertising ( after all it's a hobby for me) to help people
to decide what product buy and especially how to maintain their fish
healthy, so I need stuff, text, free of copyright, please fell free to
contact me off group if you have stuff.

Here is the new web site

www.aqualab.ca

Thanks to all Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17769 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
Leslie for your Danio, I see in other group a suggestion of 70g/L it's a
little bit too much try at 30g/l if you can not measure the gram , just
ask me I will measure it and tell you in tsp who it make per gal but it's
about 4 ounces (in weight) per gal.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 10:58
À : uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?

This is for the schools tank that will be set up next month. I don't
know the difference in the woods or their effects on the water.
The tank will house community fish w/ angels, rainbows, a gourami,
etc...
I do want to do live plants in this tank so would that make a
difference?

Many thanks,
Leslie

PS
Any advice on my still swollen danio? It looks painful!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17770 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish
Kerry here the link for Hagen product you can order them in any pet
shop,
the only place I saw them in stock are at aqua tropical,



Thanks a lot. I will keep an eye out for one this weekend. So this
can be kept in my main tank at all times, and only switched to my
quarantine tank if I need it?

Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17771 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish
Kerry the sponge filter are good, but you need a air pump, noisy, you can
also buy a cheap aqua clear filter ( cost 17$) and put it in your main tank,
and use it in the quarantine if need if you don't have a air pump, the
cost of the sponge filter and the air pump is more than the aqua clear
filter, the only main advantage of the sponge filter is for the fry. It
will not suck them but it's good to always keep water in the quarantine,
very helpful for impulsive buy of fish




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 16:11
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

Kerry here the link for Hagen product you can order them in any pet
shop,
the only place I saw them in stock are at aqua tropical,



Thanks a lot. I will keep an eye out for one this weekend. So this
can be kept in my main tank at all times, and only switched to my
quarantine tank if I need it?

Kerry






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17772 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish
I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters. Another benefit of the AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the media area and when you start another tank you can add the sponge to another aquaclear and you have an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.

I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move to my new house right now and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the new place and am going to just drop my active sponge filters in before I add the fish from their old tanks. It should speed things up a bit.

Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products but there are also other companies that make sponge filters in different sizes for different sized tanks and applications. I have some of the Hydro brand sponges and they come in different sizes and you can even double the sponge on them for different applications, they also make a large pore sponge to use as a prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge companies on google http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle

I have also made some sponge filters in the past but you need to be very cautious with the sponge material you use. I have heard some foam has arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make sure it is open cell foam so water can filter through the sponge, also if the pores are too small they clog quickly and make the sponge almost useless. Not cost effective to make them unless you want to make a dozen or more.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish


Kerry the sponge filter are good, but you need a air pump, noisy, you can
also buy a cheap aqua clear filter ( cost 17$) and put it in your main tank,
and use it in the quarantine if need if you don't have a air pump, the
cost of the sponge filter and the air pump is more than the aqua clear
filter, the only main advantage of the sponge filter is for the fry. It
will not suck them but it's good to always keep water in the quarantine,
very helpful for impulsive buy of fish

Recent Activity
29New Members
4New Photos
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Fish aquariums
Marine aquarium fish
Marine fish tank
Yahoo! Groups
Find a group now!
Discover people who
share your passions
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others.
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to your groups..

________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17773 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: starter fish
Mike I suggest Hagen, because Kerry leave in or near Montreal, and they are
the main distributor, actually they push so much to buy from them ( with
their minimum annual sale) than some LFS have no choice than keep only their
product. It's sad, because we can have good other product .

In my aqua clear I always use 2 sponge, no charcoal or other think, so I
rinse them alternately, it's by far the cheapest way to filter water. What
I like also it's the possibility to adjust the flow on those filters. What I
don't like after a power failure, they discharge the water, and if the water
level is to low, they don't prime by themselves

The fact you will use probably the same gravel will speed up also, just keep
it moist.





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Deenerz@...
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 17:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters. Another benefit of the
AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the media area and when you
start another tank you can add the sponge to another aquaclear and you have
an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.

I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move to my new house right now
and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the new place and am going to
just drop my active sponge filters in before I add the fish from their old
tanks. It should speed things up a bit.

Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products but there are also
other companies that make sponge filters in different sizes for different
sized tanks and applications. I have some of the Hydro brand sponges and
they come in different sizes and you can even double the sponge on them for
different applications, they also make a large pore sponge to use as a
prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge companies on google
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle

I have also made some sponge filters in the past but you need to be very
cautious with the sponge material you use. I have heard some foam has
arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make sure it is open cell
foam so water can filter through the sponge, also if the pores are too small
they clog quickly and make the sponge almost useless. Not cost effective to
make them unless you want to make a dozen or more.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish


Kerry the sponge filter are good, but you need a air pump, noisy, you can
also buy a cheap aqua clear filter ( cost 17$) and put it in your main tank,
and use it in the quarantine if need if you don't have a air pump, the
cost of the sponge filter and the air pump is more than the aqua clear
filter, the only main advantage of the sponge filter is for the fry. It
will not suck them but it's good to always keep water in the quarantine,
very helpful for impulsive buy of fish

Recent Activity
29New Members
4New Photos
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Fish aquariums
Marine aquarium fish
Marine fish tank
Yahoo! Groups
Find a group now!
Discover people who
share your passions
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others.
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easy 1-click access
to your groups..

________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
IM. All on demand. Always Free.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17774 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Quarantine Tank Filter
I have to buy a small filter for my quarantine/hospital/fry tank. It
currently has a very large power filter on it, which I am going to use on a
125 gallon tank (along with a canister). I do not want to buy an air
pump/tubing.



I’m considering a small power filter (like the Aqua Clear), in spite of the
NOISE…because they are inexpensive. Aren’t there sponges you can slip over
a power filter intake if the tank is being used for fry?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish



Mike I suggest Hagen, because Kerry leave in or near Montreal, and they are
the main distributor, actually they push so much to buy from them ( with
their minimum annual sale) than some LFS have no choice than keep only their
product. It's sad, because we can have good other product .

In my aqua clear I always use 2 sponge, no charcoal or other think, so I
rinse them alternately, it's by far the cheapest way to filter water. What
I like also it's the possibility to adjust the flow on those filters. What I
don't like after a power failure, they discharge the water, and if the water
level is to low, they don't prime by themselves

The fact you will use probably the same gravel will speed up also, just keep
it moist.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 17:27
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters. Another benefit of the
AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the media area and when you
start another tank you can add the sponge to another aquaclear and you have
an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.

I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move to my new house right now
and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the new place and am going to
just drop my active sponge filters in before I add the fish from their old
tanks. It should speed things up a bit.

Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products but there are also
other companies that make sponge filters in different sizes for different
sized tanks and applications. I have some of the Hydro brand sponges and
they come in different sizes and you can even double the sponge on them for
different applications, they also make a large pore sponge to use as a
prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge companies on google
http://froogle.
<http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle>
google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle

I have also made some sponge filters in the past but you need to be very
cautious with the sponge material you use. I have heard some foam has
arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make sure it is open cell
foam so water can filter through the sponge, also if the pores are too small
they clog quickly and make the sponge almost useless. Not cost effective to
make them unless you want to make a dozen or more.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

Kerry the sponge filter are good, but you need a air pump, noisy, you can
also buy a cheap aqua clear filter ( cost 17$) and put it in your main tank,
and use it in the quarantine if need if you don't have a air pump, the
cost of the sponge filter and the air pump is more than the aqua clear
filter, the only main advantage of the sponge filter is for the fry. It
will not suck them but it's good to always keep water in the quarantine,
very helpful for impulsive buy of fish

Recent Activity
29New Members
4New Photos
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Fish aquariums
Marine aquarium fish
Marine fish tank
Yahoo! Groups
Find a group now!
Discover people who
share your passions
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others.
Y! Toolbar
Get it Free!
easy 1-click access
to your groups..

__________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
IM. All on demand. Always Free.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17775 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Quarantine Tank Filter
Of course, you just remove the plastic screen tube and put a sponge ( from a
replacement one they sold for sponge filter with air) you will need to
stretch but they will go especially in the small aquaclear


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 18:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Quarantine Tank Filter

I have to buy a small filter for my quarantine/hospital/fry tank. It
currently has a very large power filter on it, which I am going to use on a
125 gallon tank (along with a canister). I do not want to buy an air
pump/tubing.



I’m considering a small power filter (like the Aqua Clear), in spite of the
NOISE…because they are inexpensive. Aren’t there sponges you can slip over
a power filter intake if the tank is being used for fry?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish



Mike I suggest Hagen, because Kerry leave in or near Montreal, and they are
the main distributor, actually they push so much to buy from them ( with
their minimum annual sale) than some LFS have no choice than keep only their
product. It's sad, because we can have good other product .

In my aqua clear I always use 2 sponge, no charcoal or other think, so I
rinse them alternately, it's by far the cheapest way to filter water. What
I like also it's the possibility to adjust the flow on those filters. What I
don't like after a power failure, they discharge the water, and if the water
level is to low, they don't prime by themselves

The fact you will use probably the same gravel will speed up also, just keep
it moist.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 17:27
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters. Another benefit of the
AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the media area and when you
start another tank you can add the sponge to another aquaclear and you have
an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.

I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move to my new house right now
and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the new place and am going to
just drop my active sponge filters in before I add the fish from their old
tanks. It should speed things up a bit.

Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products but there are also
other companies that make sponge filters in different sizes for different
sized tanks and applications. I have some of the Hydro brand sponges and
they come in different sizes and you can even double the sponge on them for
different applications, they also make a large pore sponge to use as a
prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge companies on google
http://froogle.
<http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle>
google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle

I have also made some sponge filters in the past but you need to be very
cautious with the sponge material you use. I have heard some foam has
arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make sure it is open cell
foam so water can filter through the sponge, also if the pores are too small
they clog quickly and make the sponge almost useless. Not cost effective to
make them unless you want to make a dozen or more.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

Kerry the sponge filter are good, but you need a air pump, noisy, you can
also buy a cheap aqua clear filter ( cost 17$) and put it in your main tank,
and use it in the quarantine if need if you don't have a air pump, the
cost of the sponge filter and the air pump is more than the aqua clear
filter, the only main advantage of the sponge filter is for the fry. It
will not suck them but it's good to always keep water in the quarantine,
very helpful for impulsive buy of fish

Recent Activity
29New Members
4New Photos
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Fish aquariums
Marine aquarium fish
Marine fish tank
Yahoo! Groups
Find a group now!
Discover people who
share your passions
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others.
Y! Toolbar
Get it Free!
easy 1-click access
to your groups..

__________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
IM. All on demand. Always Free.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17776 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
I don’t know how it is in other parts of the globe, but in my part of the US
(New Jersey), I find that items are WAY cheaper if I order them on the
internet than if I buy them at the LFS. I can usually wait until the
suppliers run a special offer of free shipping. Is this true all over the
world?



I ask because with Doc Fosters and Big Al’s and That Fish Place, PetSource,
PetSmart, PetCo and many others suppliers, I am always surprised when I see
a posting about something that is not available at the LFS.



I’d really like to support the LFS, but the price differential is just too
great in most cases. I buy tanks and stands and livestock (when available)
at various LFS, but other than that, emergency only.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish



Mike I suggest Hagen, because Kerry leave in or near Montreal, and they are
the main distributor, actually they push so much to buy from them ( with
their minimum annual sale) than some LFS have no choice than keep only their
product. It's sad, because we can have good other product .

In my aqua clear I always use 2 sponge, no charcoal or other think, so I
rinse them alternately, it's by far the cheapest way to filter water. What
I like also it's the possibility to adjust the flow on those filters. What I
don't like after a power failure, they discharge the water, and if the water
level is to low, they don't prime by themselves

The fact you will use probably the same gravel will speed up also, just keep
it moist.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 17:27
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters. Another benefit of the
AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the media area and when you
start another tank you can add the sponge to another aquaclear and you have
an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.

I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move to my new house right now
and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the new place and am going to
just drop my active sponge filters in before I add the fish from their old
tanks. It should speed things up a bit.

Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products but there are also
other companies that make sponge filters in different sizes for different
sized tanks and applications. I have some of the Hydro brand sponges and
they come in different sizes and you can even double the sponge on them for
different applications, they also make a large pore sponge to use as a
prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge companies on google
http://froogle.
<http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle>
google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle

I have also made some sponge filters in the past but you need to be very
cautious with the sponge material you use. I have heard some foam has
arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make sure it is open cell
foam so water can filter through the sponge, also if the pores are too small
they clog quickly and make the sponge almost useless. Not cost effective to
make them unless you want to make a dozen or more.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

Kerry the sponge filter are good, but you need a air pump, noisy, you can
also buy a cheap aqua clear filter ( cost 17$) and put it in your main tank,
and use it in the quarantine if need if you don't have a air pump, the
cost of the sponge filter and the air pump is more than the aqua clear
filter, the only main advantage of the sponge filter is for the fry. It
will not suck them but it's good to always keep water in the quarantine,
very helpful for impulsive buy of fish

Recent Activity
29New Members
4New Photos
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Fish aquariums
Marine aquarium fish
Marine fish tank
Yahoo! Groups
Find a group now!
Discover people who
share your passions
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others.
Y! Toolbar
Get it Free!
easy 1-click access
to your groups..

__________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
IM. All on demand. Always Free.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17777 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: tank temp and ph
I have two questions. # 1 I have finished treating for ich 4 days ago
but have kept my tank temp at 30c. All my fish are fine is it ok to
decrease the temp slowly back to normal? or should I wait a few more
days?
#2 I have a 10 gallon tank with two fantail goldfish and my tank ph
keeps dropping. I add ph up and it goes up but a few weeks later it
has dropped back down to about 6.2. My fish don't seem to mind but I
am wondering what might be causing it and what I can do to stop it
from happening. I have no problem maintaining my ph in my 32 gallon.
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17778 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Hi Donna and all,

I agree with you Donna. I live in Souioth Dakota and I buy everything through the internet from the suppliers you mention. The LFS (50 miles away) is almost twice the price that the internet suppliers charge even with postage, so it is cheaper to buy through internet. These suppliers also will meet or beat most other prices and they offer a very good service to us in rural areas.

The suppliers I like the best at www.petsolutions.com www.thatfishplace.com, www.bigalsonlines.com (although they are not the cheapest in price), and also Dr. Fosters and Smith. They offer much lower prices in most goods and their fish are excellent and live delivery is guaranteed for overnight delivery and most will guarantee a week there after.

So ordering through the mail is much better than getting from LFS at least from here in South Dakota. It is funny too, wholesale prices on fish have not gone up that much since I have been in the pet business in NY 25 years ago. But yet retail has risen 500% in some cases for fish. To me, that is rediculous and many charge way too much. I could buy neon tetras at $0.35 each in 1980 and I see the price is much the same today, and I charged $0.79 for them at that time retail. Today, they are about $1.99 each or more..Makes one wonder doesn't it.

Take care all,

Ivan
AquaMaze@...



----- Original Message -----
From: Donna Ransome
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet


I don't know how it is in other parts of the globe, but in my part of the US
(New Jersey), I find that items are WAY cheaper if I order them on the
internet than if I buy them at the LFS. I can usually wait until the
suppliers run a special offer of free shipping. Is this true all over the
world?

I ask because with Doc Fosters and Big Al's and That Fish Place, PetSource,
PetSmart, PetCo and many others suppliers, I am always surprised when I see
a posting about something that is not available at the LFS.

I'd really like to support the LFS, but the price differential is just too
great in most cases. I buy tanks and stands and livestock (when available)
at various LFS, but other than that, emergency only.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

Mike I suggest Hagen, because Kerry leave in or near Montreal, and they are
the main distributor, actually they push so much to buy from them ( with
their minimum annual sale) than some LFS have no choice than keep only their
product. It's sad, because we can have good other product .

In my aqua clear I always use 2 sponge, no charcoal or other think, so I
rinse them alternately, it's by far the cheapest way to filter water. What
I like also it's the possibility to adjust the flow on those filters. What I
don't like after a power failure, they discharge the water, and if the water
level is to low, they don't prime by themselves

The fact you will use probably the same gravel will speed up also, just keep
it moist.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 17:27
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters. Another benefit of the
AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the media area and when you
start another tank you can add the sponge to another aquaclear and you have
an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.

I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move to my new house right now
and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the new place and am going to
just drop my active sponge filters in before I add the fish from their old
tanks. It should speed things up a bit.

Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products but there are also
other companies that make sponge filters in different sizes for different
sized tanks and applications. I have some of the Hydro brand sponges and
they come in different sizes and you can even double the sponge on them for
different applications, they also make a large pore sponge to use as a
prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge companies on google
http://froogle.
<http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle>
google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle

I have also made some sponge filters in the past but you need to be very
cautious with the sponge material you use. I have heard some foam has
arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make sure it is open cell
foam so water can filter through the sponge, also if the pores are too small
they clog quickly and make the sponge almost useless. Not cost effective to
make them unless you want to make a dozen or more.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

Kerry the sponge filter are good, but you need a air pump, noisy, you can
also buy a cheap aqua clear filter ( cost 17$) and put it in your main tank,
and use it in the quarantine if need if you don't have a air pump, the
cost of the sponge filter and the air pump is more than the aqua clear
filter, the only main advantage of the sponge filter is for the fry. It
will not suck them but it's good to always keep water in the quarantine,
very helpful for impulsive buy of fish

Recent Activity
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17779 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
This subject kills people on my model railroad group ..........



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de aquamaze@...
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 18:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet

Hi Donna and all,

I agree with you Donna. I live in Souioth Dakota and I buy everything
through the internet from the suppliers you mention. The LFS (50 miles
away) is almost twice the price that the internet suppliers charge even with
postage, so it is cheaper to buy through internet. These suppliers also
will meet or beat most other prices and they offer a very good service to us
in rural areas.

The suppliers I like the best at www.petsolutions.com
www.thatfishplace.com, www.bigalsonlines.com (although they are not the
cheapest in price), and also Dr. Fosters and Smith. They offer much lower
prices in most goods and their fish are excellent and live delivery is
guaranteed for overnight delivery and most will guarantee a week there
after.

So ordering through the mail is much better than getting from LFS at least
from here in South Dakota. It is funny too, wholesale prices on fish have
not gone up that much since I have been in the pet business in NY 25 years
ago. But yet retail has risen 500% in some cases for fish. To me, that is
rediculous and many charge way too much. I could buy neon tetras at $0.35
each in 1980 and I see the price is much the same today, and I charged $0.79
for them at that time retail. Today, they are about $1.99 each or
more..Makes one wonder doesn't it.

Take care all,

Ivan
AquaMaze@...



----- Original Message -----
From: Donna Ransome
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet


I don't know how it is in other parts of the globe, but in my part of the
US
(New Jersey), I find that items are WAY cheaper if I order them on the
internet than if I buy them at the LFS. I can usually wait until the
suppliers run a special offer of free shipping. Is this true all over the
world?

I ask because with Doc Fosters and Big Al's and That Fish Place,
PetSource,
PetSmart, PetCo and many others suppliers, I am always surprised when I
see
a posting about something that is not available at the LFS.

I'd really like to support the LFS, but the price differential is just too
great in most cases. I buy tanks and stands and livestock (when available)
at various LFS, but other than that, emergency only.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

Mike I suggest Hagen, because Kerry leave in or near Montreal, and they
are
the main distributor, actually they push so much to buy from them ( with
their minimum annual sale) than some LFS have no choice than keep only
their
product. It's sad, because we can have good other product .

In my aqua clear I always use 2 sponge, no charcoal or other think, so I
rinse them alternately, it's by far the cheapest way to filter water. What
I like also it's the possibility to adjust the flow on those filters. What
I
don't like after a power failure, they discharge the water, and if the
water
level is to low, they don't prime by themselves

The fact you will use probably the same gravel will speed up also, just
keep
it moist.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 17:27
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters. Another benefit of the
AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the media area and when you
start another tank you can add the sponge to another aquaclear and you
have
an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.

I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move to my new house right
now
and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the new place and am going
to
just drop my active sponge filters in before I add the fish from their old
tanks. It should speed things up a bit.

Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products but there are also
other companies that make sponge filters in different sizes for different
sized tanks and applications. I have some of the Hydro brand sponges and
they come in different sizes and you can even double the sponge on them
for
different applications, they also make a large pore sponge to use as a
prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge companies on google
http://froogle.
<http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle>
google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle

I have also made some sponge filters in the past but you need to be very
cautious with the sponge material you use. I have heard some foam has
arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make sure it is open cell
foam so water can filter through the sponge, also if the pores are too
small
they clog quickly and make the sponge almost useless. Not cost effective
to
make them unless you want to make a dozen or more.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

Kerry the sponge filter are good, but you need a air pump, noisy, you can
also buy a cheap aqua clear filter ( cost 17$) and put it in your main
tank,
and use it in the quarantine if need if you don't have a air pump, the
cost of the sponge filter and the air pump is more than the aqua clear
filter, the only main advantage of the sponge filter is for the fry. It
will not suck them but it's good to always keep water in the quarantine,
very helpful for impulsive buy of fish

Recent Activity
29New Members
4New Photos
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Fish aquariums
Marine aquarium fish
Marine fish tank
Yahoo! Groups
Find a group now!
Discover people who
share your passions
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others.
Y! Toolbar
Get it Free!
easy 1-click access
to your groups..

__________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
IM. All on demand. Always Free.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.4/402 - Release Date: 7/27/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17780 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Hello group, I'm new here and would like to post on this subject. I make my living by the way of aquariums. I sale,stock and service them.
I have access to wholesale prices on dry and live goods. The Internet is still lower in price than most my wholesalers on dry goods. Big outfits like Big Al's, Fosters and smith, that fish place, ect........ They buy 1000's of one item and get HUGE discounts. Makes it hard for small pet stores to stay in competition with their prices. I have had people come in and look at filters, have me explain everything about it pros and cons, for them to look at me putting it back in the box, and say thanks, I'm gonna buy one off the Internet for 1/2 the price. I have had people bring in products they bought off the Internet, expecting me to warranty the product, because I sold the same product.
The Internet sales has closed many pet stores, and probably many more to come. I ask that you all try to support your LFS, dry goods is the major part of their income,(they cant die). Dont support Petsmart, or Petco ect........( did you know petsmart comes in to the Mom and Pop pet stores, writes down their prices, and then under-sales them.) They already get things cheaper than the small pet store does because they buy in quality, and get BIG discounts.
I am not a pet store, I am a service. I do not work with walk in traffic any more, but did for many years. I have 140 customer base. Service 265 tanks and counting.
Hope I haven't mad any eel feelings

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com


... PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17781 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
1- Lower now the temps, do it gradually, may be 29 tonight 28 tomorrow
morning

2- What ph up product you put, if it's made with bicarbonate it add only
temporary hardness, and after a wild it return acid, the best is to not
change the chemical of your tank, or put a buffer chemical if you want rise
up, but not a ph up product, the buffer is a mix of alkalin and acid, who
make it more hard to the water to shift up or down

You can use by example the ph stabilizer and KH booster of Hagen, but is it
really necessary, are you sure of your PH kit, I find hard to read those
titration kit for ph ( the bottle with drop and after you compare on a chart
, that's a titration ) 6,2 is low for a city water is it a well

As much I like chemistry, and believe it I like, I dislike to put chemical
in fish aquarium, if you really want you can put some dolomite gravel in a
nylon sock or mix with the gravel, or a sea coral, it will naturally rise
the PH. But avoid the chemical..

Gerard







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 18:42
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph

I have two questions. # 1 I have finished treating for ich 4 days ago
but have kept my tank temp at 30c. All my fish are fine is it ok to
decrease the temp slowly back to normal? or should I wait a few more
days?
#2 I have a 10 gallon tank with two fantail goldfish and my tank ph
keeps dropping. I add ph up and it goes up but a few weeks later it
has dropped back down to about 6.2. My fish don't seem to mind but I
am wondering what might be causing it and what I can do to stop it
from happening. I have no problem maintaining my ph in my 32 gallon.
Kerry






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17782 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Hi Sissy,
I have to agree.
I live near San Francisco and every year a 1 or more LFS close down in the Bay Area.
It can be attributed to the chain stores under cutting prices as well as internet sales.

The three aquarium societies I belong to always stress the importance of buying local, the local places also support the three societies.

I have a friend that has a shop and he can tell you not only the name of the fish you are buying but the river or location in a lake it's ancestors came from. The chain stores might be able to give you the name but as for location they will scratch their heads and say the big truck comes twice a week.

Mike



-----Original Message-----
From: ssathre@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet


Hello group, I'm new here and would like to post on this subject. I make my living by the way of aquariums. I sale,stock and service them.
I have access to wholesale prices on dry and live goods. The Internet is still lower in price than most my wholesalers on dry goods. Big outfits like Big Al's, Fosters and smith, that fish place, ect........ They buy 1000's of one item and get HUGE discounts. Makes it hard for small pet stores to stay in competition with their prices. I have had people come in and look at filters, have me explain everything about it pros and cons, for them to look at me putting it back in the box, and say thanks, I'm gonna buy one off the Internet for 1/2 the price. I have had people bring in products they bought off the Internet, expecting me to warranty the product, because I sold the same product.
The Internet sales has closed many pet stores, and probably many more to come. I ask that you all try to support your LFS, dry goods is the major part of their income,(they cant die). Dont support Petsmart, or Petco ect........( did you know petsmart comes in to the Mom and Pop pet stores, writes down their prices, and then under-sales them.) They already get things cheaper than the small pet store does because they buy in quality, and get BIG discounts.
I am not a pet store, I am a service. I do not work with walk in traffic any more, but did for many years. I have 140 customer base. Service 265 tanks and counting.
Hope I haven't mad any eel feelings

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com

... PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT Recent Activity
29New Members
4New Photos
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Fish aquariums
Marine aquarium fish
Marine fish tank
Yahoo! Groups
Find a group now!
Discover people who
share your passions
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others.
Y! Toolbar
Get it Free!
easy 1-click access
to your groups..

________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17783 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Mike you just touch something here " an Aquatic society " how many are
member here ? , is it not a good place to exchange, and learn. Internet is
may be good for save money, it's good also for meet people in group like
this one, but nothing replace a society, with eye to eye contact, something
who is getting rare and rare in this rat race we live today. For many year I
was to busy for afford to travel 1 hour and a half to go in Montreal but
this Fall I will take the time since the big chain store close my computer
store......

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Deenerz@...
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 20:01
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet

Hi Sissy,
I have to agree.
I live near San Francisco and every year a 1 or more LFS close down in the
Bay Area.
It can be attributed to the chain stores under cutting prices as well as
internet sales.

The three aquarium societies I belong to always stress the importance of
buying local, the local places also support the three societies.

I have a friend that has a shop and he can tell you not only the name of the
fish you are buying but the river or location in a lake it's ancestors came
from. The chain stores might be able to give you the name but as for
location they will scratch their heads and say the big truck comes twice a
week.

Mike



-----Original Message-----
From: ssathre@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet


Hello group, I'm new here and would like to post on this subject. I make my
living by the way of aquariums. I sale,stock and service them.
I have access to wholesale prices on dry and live goods. The Internet is
still lower in price than most my wholesalers on dry goods. Big outfits like
Big Al's, Fosters and smith, that fish place, ect........ They buy 1000's of
one item and get HUGE discounts. Makes it hard for small pet stores to stay
in competition with their prices. I have had people come in and look at
filters, have me explain everything about it pros and cons, for them to look
at me putting it back in the box, and say thanks, I'm gonna buy one off the
Internet for 1/2 the price. I have had people bring in products they bought
off the Internet, expecting me to warranty the product, because I sold the
same product.
The Internet sales has closed many pet stores, and probably many more to
come. I ask that you all try to support your LFS, dry goods is the major
part of their income,(they cant die). Dont support Petsmart, or Petco
ect........( did you know petsmart comes in to the Mom and Pop pet stores,
writes down their prices, and then under-sales them.) They already get
things cheaper than the small pet store does because they buy in quality,
and get BIG discounts.
I am not a pet store, I am a service. I do not work with walk in traffic any
more, but did for many years. I have 140 customer base. Service 265 tanks
and counting.
Hope I haven't mad any eel feelings

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com

... PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT Recent
Activity
29New Members
4New Photos
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Fish aquariums
Marine aquarium fish
Marine fish tank
Yahoo! Groups
Find a group now!
Discover people who
share your passions
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others.
Y! Toolbar
Get it Free!
easy 1-click access
to your groups..

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17784 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Testing methods
What testing methods are most reliable? I use the chemical drops into
the water tube for everything but I also occasionally use the dip
strips. I've heard that neither are all that reliable. I know
expiration is an issue and all of mine are current.
Today the pH tested at 7.2 w/ the chemical drip/water tube, then the
same water resulted in pH 6.8 of the dip strip.

~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17785 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Testing methods
I already answer you in private , anyway, a electronic PH meter is more
reliable, you can buy now at less than 50$, but you need to learn how to
use it, you need 2 or 3 buffer solution to calibrate them one important
at 7.0 ph and an other at 4.0 or 10.00 or best boot of them, it depends,
if you measure under 7.0 you use the 4.0 and the 7.0 and if it's upper 7.00
the 10.00 and the 7.0 and of course the electrode have to be keep wet in a
solution for that or you can use the 4.0 or 10.0 buffer solutions, it's
just an intro, ask me if you need more info I have link to web site who show
how to use it

But the titration ( chemical drop) is more reliable than the paper.
Especially when they get old

Gerard
www.aqualab.ca




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 20:32
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
naturalaquariumenthusiast@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Testing methods

What testing methods are most reliable? I use the chemical drops into
the water tube for everything but I also occasionally use the dip
strips. I've heard that neither are all that reliable. I know
expiration is an issue and all of mine are current.
Today the pH tested at 7.2 w/ the chemical drip/water tube, then the
same water resulted in pH 6.8 of the dip strip.

~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17786 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Funny 2 dif. Group same answer

"Answer to question 1 is yes. Number two.. Adding ph up in itself is a
temporary solution. What the tank needs is a buffer. Get yourself some
crushed coral. Put a handful or two in the tank. You may need to adjust the
amount a little"



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 20:07
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph

1- Lower now the temps, do it gradually, may be 29 tonight 28 tomorrow
morning

2- What ph up product you put, if it's made with bicarbonate it add only
temporary hardness, and after a wild it return acid, the best is to not
change the chemical of your tank, or put a buffer chemical if you want rise
up, but not a ph up product, the buffer is a mix of alkalin and acid, who
make it more hard to the water to shift up or down

You can use by example the ph stabilizer and KH booster of Hagen, but is it
really necessary, are you sure of your PH kit, I find hard to read those
titration kit for ph ( the bottle with drop and after you compare on a chart
, that's a titration ) 6,2 is low for a city water is it a well

As much I like chemistry, and believe it I like, I dislike to put chemical
in fish aquarium, if you really want you can put some dolomite gravel in a
nylon sock or mix with the gravel, or a sea coral, it will naturally rise
the PH. But avoid the chemical..

Gerard







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 18:42
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph

I have two questions. # 1 I have finished treating for ich 4 days ago
but have kept my tank temp at 30c. All my fish are fine is it ok to
decrease the temp slowly back to normal? or should I wait a few more
days?
#2 I have a 10 gallon tank with two fantail goldfish and my tank ph
keeps dropping. I add ph up and it goes up but a few weeks later it
has dropped back down to about 6.2. My fish don't seem to mind but I
am wondering what might be causing it and what I can do to stop it
from happening. I have no problem maintaining my ph in my 32 gallon.
Kerry






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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links










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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17787 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Testing methods
Leslie for your other question on the drift wood, It will not drop the PH
like that. Unless it's new , don't be worry Leslie put some drift

"Do you have any driftwood in the tank, or other natural decorations?"
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17788 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Testing methods
Leslie I prepare quarantine tank for the Farlowella I will receive in 15
days, you can see the size of driftwood I place in the tank, for now it's
cloudy, because I just put the water yesterday and I have a bacteria gloom
even a quarantine tank need some decoration........

http://www.aqualab.ca/photo.htm




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 20:52
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Testing methods

Leslie for your other question on the drift wood, It will not drop the PH
like that. Unless it's new , don't be worry Leslie put some drift

"Do you have any driftwood in the tank, or other natural decorations?"










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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17789 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?
they are cool...I have an albino dwarf bristlenose who loves his chuck of
driftwood and can usually be found lounging, attached underneath it :-D

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, 28 July 2006 12:29
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?



I plan on getting an albino bristlenose, another reason I think I should
do real wood.
Thanks!
Leslie

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of MIke Schornak
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 12:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?

Also if you at some point want to put plecostomus in the tank, they love
wood, they will also get fiber from it.

Mike

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote:
Leslie what ever wood you put will put some tanic acid ( is it the good
word) in the water, actually it's not a real problem since you will
eliminate it in water change, just make sure you let them soak enough in
water before. Actually it's even good , it will keep you ph a little bit
lower. An other thing, the wood brings an other good substrate for the
beneficial bacteria. It's important to use a variety of hard wood know
to
not easy rotten in water check it with your finger nail, if they get in
the wood too easy don't buy it , talking of wood I have to go finish my
form, for the foundation of my fish room, the concrete truck come Monday
at
8:00 am

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 10:58
À : uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Swahala,Maylasian or fake Driftwood?

This is for the schools tank that will be set up next month. I don't
know the difference in the woods or their effects on the water.
The tank will house community fish w/ angels, rainbows, a gourami,
etc...
I do want to do live plants in this tank so would that make a
difference?

Many thanks,
Leslie

PS
Any advice on my still swollen danio? It looks painful!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Yahoo! Groups Links

---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17790 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
I realize the internet impact on LFS, same as so many industries. Mom and
Pop pharmacies succumb to the chains, liquor stores, grocery stores, book
stores, you name it. I was a corporate Benefits Manager, and now
corporations are outsourcing their benefits. So I joined an outsourcing
firm. You did exactly the right thing to change with the industry and find
a competitive niche.



But that was not really the focus of my post. I was wondering why, if the
LFS cannot provide a product at any price, people do not order from a global
firm. Like alternatives to Hagen products in Quebec, for example. (Also, I
don’t find PetCo and PetSmart in-store prices to be better than LFS, and
find their selection is somewhat limited to lower-end products.)



Your aquariums are fabulous! I daydream about earning a living designing
aquariums for people…that seems to be the part of fishkeeping I like the
best, and if I keep doing tanks for myself, I will be bankrupt and crowded
out of my house. Do you do African cichlid aquariums?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 6:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet



Hello group, I'm new here and would like to post on this subject. I make my
living by the way of aquariums. I sale,stock and service them.
I have access to wholesale prices on dry and live goods. The Internet is
still lower in price than most my wholesalers on dry goods. Big outfits like
Big Al's, Fosters and smith, that fish place, ect........ They buy 1000's of
one item and get HUGE discounts. Makes it hard for small pet stores to stay
in competition with their prices. I have had people come in and look at
filters, have me explain everything about it pros and cons, for them to look
at me putting it back in the box, and say thanks, I'm gonna buy one off the
Internet for 1/2 the price. I have had people bring in products they bought
off the Internet, expecting me to warranty the product, because I sold the
same product.
The Internet sales has closed many pet stores, and probably many more to
come. I ask that you all try to support your LFS, dry goods is the major
part of their income,(they cant die). Dont support Petsmart, or Petco
ect........( did you know petsmart comes in to the Mom and Pop pet stores,
writes down their prices, and then under-sales them.) They already get
things cheaper than the small pet store does because they buy in quality,
and get BIG discounts.
I am not a pet store, I am a service. I do not work with walk in traffic any
more, but did for many years. I have 140 customer base. Service 265 tanks
and counting.
Hope I haven't mad any eel feelings

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com

... PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" We Thank You in
Advance for Your HELP in this matter.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17791 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Hello Gerard,
The Aquarium societies I have joined in the last several years have greatly attributed to my fish knowledge. I also learn a lot on the internet but as you mention eye to eye contact can help communicate concepts easier.

The Societies bring in guest speakers each month on different aquatic subjects. One club will have a speaker on the subject of Discus, Bettas, Anabantoids, loaches, Angel fish, Planted aquariums, catfish, and other subjects.

I belong to two general aquarium societies and a Cichlid one. The cichlid one restricts speakers to cichlids, but we do make exceptioons for catfish as it seems most cichlid keepers have a soft spot for catfish.

I recently made it to the board of directors for one of the general societies and now I (gulp) have to find a speaker for each meeting every month.

The societies usually charge a minimal fee for members, have a monthly newsletter discussing aquatic topics like how to breed or keep difficult species of fish. We also have auctions at each monthly meeting where you can bring in a bag of fish and either get breeder award points if you donate the fish or sell the fish and the club gets a dollar per bag and you get the rest. Or a percentage of the price. We get donation from local fish stores and promote their stores. The money made from membership and fish sales pays for speakers every month. Oh, we usually also have a raffle every meeting with products donated by the manufacturers of aquarium products aswell as local fish stores.

Some people that sell fish or get breeder award points from them are bringing new fish into the fish hobby or rare fish that you cannot locate in your local stores. They purchase fish from importers and try their hand at breeding them and try to get them into the aquarium hobby. It works great as I have gotten fish in the past that were not readily available or impossible to get at chain stores.

Just last weekend was the American Cichlid Association (ACA) in Chicago and I went and had a blast. They have this once a year and people from all over North America and beyond attend. World reknowned speakers, fish collectors, researchers, zoo and aquarium curators also attend. You have a great chance of picking up rare fish at these meetings. Next year it will be in Sacramento California and if anyone here is into Cichlids do try and attend. It will be a blast!

Gerard I bet if we look around online we can find some Canadian aquarium societies. We get a few Canadian aquarists to come down and speak at our clubs every year and a couple of them are the best in their fields.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet


Mike you just touch something here " an Aquatic society " how many are
member here ? , is it not a good place to exchange, and learn. Internet is
may be good for save money, it's good also for meet people in group like
this one, but nothing replace a society, with eye to eye contact, something
who is getting rare and rare in this rat race we live today. For many year I
was to busy for afford to travel 1 hour and a half to go in Montreal but
this Fall I will take the time since the big chain store close my computer
store......

Gerard

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17792 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Of course "La societe aquariophile de montreal" and you have also an
english one in Montreal I omit the accent because some people will see
strange character





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Deenerz@...
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 23:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet

Hello Gerard,
The Aquarium societies I have joined in the last several years have greatly
attributed to my fish knowledge. I also learn a lot on the internet but as
you mention eye to eye contact can help communicate concepts easier.

The Societies bring in guest speakers each month on different aquatic
subjects. One club will have a speaker on the subject of Discus, Bettas,
Anabantoids, loaches, Angel fish, Planted aquariums, catfish, and other
subjects.

I belong to two general aquarium societies and a Cichlid one. The cichlid
one restricts speakers to cichlids, but we do make exceptioons for catfish
as it seems most cichlid keepers have a soft spot for catfish.

I recently made it to the board of directors for one of the general
societies and now I (gulp) have to find a speaker for each meeting every
month.

The societies usually charge a minimal fee for members, have a monthly
newsletter discussing aquatic topics like how to breed or keep difficult
species of fish. We also have auctions at each monthly meeting where you
can bring in a bag of fish and either get breeder award points if you donate
the fish or sell the fish and the club gets a dollar per bag and you get the
rest. Or a percentage of the price. We get donation from local fish stores
and promote their stores. The money made from membership and fish sales
pays for speakers every month. Oh, we usually also have a raffle every
meeting with products donated by the manufacturers of aquarium products
aswell as local fish stores.

Some people that sell fish or get breeder award points from them are
bringing new fish into the fish hobby or rare fish that you cannot locate in
your local stores. They purchase fish from importers and try their hand at
breeding them and try to get them into the aquarium hobby. It works great
as I have gotten fish in the past that were not readily available or
impossible to get at chain stores.

Just last weekend was the American Cichlid Association (ACA) in Chicago and
I went and had a blast. They have this once a year and people from all over
North America and beyond attend. World reknowned speakers, fish collectors,
researchers, zoo and aquarium curators also attend. You have a great chance
of picking up rare fish at these meetings. Next year it will be in
Sacramento California and if anyone here is into Cichlids do try and attend.
It will be a blast!

Gerard I bet if we look around online we can find some Canadian aquarium
societies. We get a few Canadian aquarists to come down and speak at our
clubs every year and a couple of them are the best in their fields.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet


Mike you just touch something here " an Aquatic society " how many are
member here ? , is it not a good place to exchange, and learn. Internet is
may be good for save money, it's good also for meet people in group like
this one, but nothing replace a society, with eye to eye contact, something
who is getting rare and rare in this rat race we live today. For many year I
was to busy for afford to travel 1 hour and a half to go in Montreal but
this Fall I will take the time since the big chain store close my computer
store......

Gerard

Recent Activity
22New Members
4New Photos
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Fish aquariums
Marine aquarium fish
Marine fish tank
Yahoo! Groups
Find a group now!
Discover people who
share your passions
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others.
Y! Toolbar
Get it Free!
easy 1-click access
to your groups..

________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
IM. All on demand. Always Free.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17793 From: marty nyb Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
Another good book (although very technical) is
Handbook of Fish Diseases by Dieter Untergasser.

Marty
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17794 From: Rick Rattie Date: 7/28/2006
Subject: greetings and saluations
Hi:

My name is Rick and my partners name is Wes. Right now we do not have a "pond' perse we have a container water garden. Its a 100 gallon Behlen Animal Feeding Trough (not toxic!) that we have made into our water garden as we needed something that we could take with us till we have bought a home and are able to put the real deal in.

You can read about our pond at the following link which has photos of all the denziens, plants and etc. Those little finny ones are hard to photograph!

http://shadows-place.com/watergarden.htm

Cheers

Rick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17795 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
I don't know about that claim. I know that brewer's yeast is good for
keeping fleas off dogs. I know that there are many claims made for the
wondrous properties of garlic, but I've not heard that one. Keep in mind
that if it does work for one animal, it may not translate to another
animal to do the same. Without finding a valid study on it, I'd just
ignore it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:49 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I was told yesterday that you can add a garlic substance to food to ward
off parasites. Does anyone else know of this? Should I be leary of
anything (other than salt?)

Also, my giant danio looks like he is about to blow up w/ constipation.
He won't eat peas, none of the fish will. What do I for him? He looks
so miserable, he just sits in the corner looking hurt. And his colors
are changing.

Thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17796 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
May be the breath of the fish will be so terrible than the infected fish
will not come close to him,

Seriously, I read some report on that, the sickness they have treat with
garlic, will have may be ill also with no medication, so hard to say. It's
like a cold you treat it with medicine it's gone after 1 week, you don’t,
treat it, it takes 7 days



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 29 juillet, 2006 08:09
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I don't know about that claim. I know that brewer's yeast is good for
keeping fleas off dogs. I know that there are many claims made for the
wondrous properties of garlic, but I've not heard that one. Keep in mind
that if it does work for one animal, it may not translate to another
animal to do the same. Without finding a valid study on it, I'd just
ignore it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:49 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I was told yesterday that you can add a garlic substance to food to ward
off parasites. Does anyone else know of this? Should I be leary of
anything (other than salt?)

Also, my giant danio looks like he is about to blow up w/ constipation.
He won't eat peas, none of the fish will. What do I for him? He looks
so miserable, he just sits in the corner looking hurt. And his colors
are changing.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17797 From: wendie Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Yes, the product is called Xtreme Garlic and you add just a very tiny
amount - two drops I think - to the water to encourage problem eaters and to
fight against parasites. It was actually recommended to me by the Drs
Foster & Smith site when I wanted to pick up a UV system. I was told to
give it a try before doing anything else. I am checking around for it now
as I have a clown with problems that I can't shack.
Wendie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 7:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.


I don't know about that claim. I know that brewer's yeast is good for
keeping fleas off dogs. I know that there are many claims made for the
wondrous properties of garlic, but I've not heard that one. Keep in mind
that if it does work for one animal, it may not translate to another
animal to do the same. Without finding a valid study on it, I'd just
ignore it.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:49 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I was told yesterday that you can add a garlic substance to food to ward
off parasites. Does anyone else know of this? Should I be leary of
anything (other than salt?)

Also, my giant danio looks like he is about to blow up w/ constipation.
He won't eat peas, none of the fish will. What do I for him? He looks
so miserable, he just sits in the corner looking hurt. And his colors
are changing.

Thanks!
Leslie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17798 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
Wendie, Do you have more than one Danio? If the bloated one is female, she could be egg bound. A male could maybe get her to release the eggs, if thats the case. Try to find a food made by Jungle called Pepso food, if you think it could be worms.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 8:55 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.


Yes, the product is called Xtreme Garlic and you add just a very tiny
amount - two drops I think - to the water to encourage problem eaters and to
fight against parasites. It was actually recommended to me by the Drs
Foster & Smith site when I wanted to pick up a UV system. I was told to
give it a try before doing anything else. I am checking around for it now
as I have a clown with problems that I can't shack.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 7:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I don't know about that claim. I know that brewer's yeast is good for
keeping fleas off dogs. I know that there are many claims made for the
wondrous properties of garlic, but I've not heard that one. Keep in mind
that if it does work for one animal, it may not translate to another
animal to do the same. Without finding a valid study on it, I'd just
ignore it.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:49 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I was told yesterday that you can add a garlic substance to food to ward
off parasites. Does anyone else know of this? Should I be leary of
anything (other than salt?)

Also, my giant danio looks like he is about to blow up w/ constipation.
He won't eat peas, none of the fish will. What do I for him? He looks
so miserable, he just sits in the corner looking hurt. And his colors
are changing.

Thanks!
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17799 From: wendie Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
No, I was just commenting on the garlic. I have a problem with a clown
loach that
came in and is full of ich. I've been treating for a couple of weeks and we
are still
status quo.
Wendie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 9:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.


Wendie, Do you have more than one Danio? If the bloated one is female, she
could be egg bound. A male could maybe get her to release the eggs, if thats
the case. Try to find a food made by Jungle called Pepso food, if you think
it could be worms.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 8:55 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

Yes, the product is called Xtreme Garlic and you add just a very tiny
amount - two drops I think - to the water to encourage problem eaters and
to
fight against parasites. It was actually recommended to me by the Drs
Foster & Smith site when I wanted to pick up a UV system. I was told to
give it a try before doing anything else. I am checking around for it now
as I have a clown with problems that I can't shack.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 7:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I don't know about that claim. I know that brewer's yeast is good for
keeping fleas off dogs. I know that there are many claims made for the
wondrous properties of garlic, but I've not heard that one. Keep in mind
that if it does work for one animal, it may not translate to another
animal to do the same. Without finding a valid study on it, I'd just
ignore it.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:49 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I was told yesterday that you can add a garlic substance to food to ward
off parasites. Does anyone else know of this? Should I be leary of
anything (other than salt?)

Also, my giant danio looks like he is about to blow up w/ constipation.
He won't eat peas, none of the fish will. What do I for him? He looks
so miserable, he just sits in the corner looking hurt. And his colors
are changing.

Thanks!
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17800 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
I think I'll start doing that. The shop said they do it twice a month
and I think that's a great idea. I just had an adult albino cory keel
over for no apparant reason. Now another baby albino cory is in
quarentine as he is lathargic this morning. It seems if this problem is
internal parasites the garlic would have prevented it.
Definitely seems like it has only positive effects.

Thanks,
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of wendie
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 8:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.



Yes, the product is called Xtreme Garlic and you add just a very tiny
amount - two drops I think - to the water to encourage problem eaters
and to
fight against parasites. It was actually recommended to me by the Drs
Foster & Smith site when I wanted to pick up a UV system. I was told to
give it a try before doing anything else. I am checking around for it
now
as I have a clown with problems that I can't shack.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 7:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I don't know about that claim. I know that brewer's yeast is good for
keeping fleas off dogs. I know that there are many claims made for the
wondrous properties of garlic, but I've not heard that one. Keep in mind
that if it does work for one animal, it may not translate to another
animal to do the same. Without finding a valid study on it, I'd just
ignore it.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:49 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I was told yesterday that you can add a garlic substance to food to ward
off parasites. Does anyone else know of this? Should I be leary of
anything (other than salt?)

Also, my giant danio looks like he is about to blow up w/ constipation.
He won't eat peas, none of the fish will. What do I for him? He looks
so miserable, he just sits in the corner looking hurt. And his colors
are changing.

Thanks!
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17801 From: wendie Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
I thought it was interesting that they suggested it. You're talking about a
$100 sale
for a UV filter vs $10 for the garlic. That impressed me that they thought
about
recommending it over the filter.
Wendie






-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 9:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.



I think I'll start doing that. The shop said they do it twice a month
and I think that's a great idea. I just had an adult albino cory keel
over for no apparant reason. Now another baby albino cory is in
quarentine as he is lathargic this morning. It seems if this problem is
internal parasites the garlic would have prevented it.
Definitely seems like it has only positive effects.

Thanks,
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of wendie
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 8:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

Yes, the product is called Xtreme Garlic and you add just a very tiny
amount - two drops I think - to the water to encourage problem eaters
and to
fight against parasites. It was actually recommended to me by the Drs
Foster & Smith site when I wanted to pick up a UV system. I was told to
give it a try before doing anything else. I am checking around for it
now
as I have a clown with problems that I can't shack.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 7:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I don't know about that claim. I know that brewer's yeast is good for
keeping fleas off dogs. I know that there are many claims made for the
wondrous properties of garlic, but I've not heard that one. Keep in mind
that if it does work for one animal, it may not translate to another
animal to do the same. Without finding a valid study on it, I'd just
ignore it.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:49 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I was told yesterday that you can add a garlic substance to food to ward
off parasites. Does anyone else know of this? Should I be leary of
anything (other than salt?)

Also, my giant danio looks like he is about to blow up w/ constipation.
He won't eat peas, none of the fish will. What do I for him? He looks
so miserable, he just sits in the corner looking hurt. And his colors
are changing.

Thanks!
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17802 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.
I have never heard of this remedy before. No local LFS here so what is this garlic stuff and can it be ordered from anyone? I also think maybe a little aquarium salt might help too, but not too much.

Ivan
AquaMaze@...

----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 9:51 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.



I think I'll start doing that. The shop said they do it twice a month
and I think that's a great idea. I just had an adult albino cory keel
over for no apparant reason. Now another baby albino cory is in
quarentine as he is lathargic this morning. It seems if this problem is
internal parasites the garlic would have prevented it.
Definitely seems like it has only positive effects.

Thanks,
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of wendie
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 8:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

Yes, the product is called Xtreme Garlic and you add just a very tiny
amount - two drops I think - to the water to encourage problem eaters
and to
fight against parasites. It was actually recommended to me by the Drs
Foster & Smith site when I wanted to pick up a UV system. I was told to
give it a try before doing anything else. I am checking around for it
now
as I have a clown with problems that I can't shack.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 7:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I don't know about that claim. I know that brewer's yeast is good for
keeping fleas off dogs. I know that there are many claims made for the
wondrous properties of garlic, but I've not heard that one. Keep in mind
that if it does work for one animal, it may not translate to another
animal to do the same. Without finding a valid study on it, I'd just
ignore it.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:49 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Garlic for parasites? Giant bloated danio.

I was told yesterday that you can add a garlic substance to food to ward
off parasites. Does anyone else know of this? Should I be leary of
anything (other than salt?)

Also, my giant danio looks like he is about to blow up w/ constipation.
He won't eat peas, none of the fish will. What do I for him? He looks
so miserable, he just sits in the corner looking hurt. And his colors
are changing.

Thanks!
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.5/403 - Release Date: 7/28/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17803 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Losing my cory cats
Yesterday my oldest albino cory cat died. No signs of anything the day
prior, just dead. I chalked it up to old age for lack of anything
better. I looked him over and saw nothing on the outside. Not skinny,
no worms, no reddening, no holes, etc...

Today a small cory, also an albino, died. When I looked him over he had
a red spot on his abdomen which was dark red for the most part but a
white-ish pink directly in the middle; and it seemed hard, not fleshy.
(I so wish I could take a picture but I don't have any batteries.)

Does this sound like something anyone has seen or heard of before? I'm
stumped.
I'm trying to decide between bacterial (due to the redness which also
seemed to go into his abdomen from the spot), or parasites. The
whitening in the middle makes me wonder about parasites.

Many thanks w/ hopes to not lose anymore fish,

Leslie

PS
46 bow front w/ now 4 cory cats, an elephant nose, 2 dwarf gouramis, an
xray tetra & 2 angels.
ammonia 0, nitrates 20, nitrites 0, pH 7.2


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17804 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: books on fish diseases
No, sorry, that is not the one.

I just went to find it. I got the editor wrong. Sorry.

Stoskopf, Michael K., DVM, PhD., _The Veterinary Clinics of North America, Small Animal Practice_ Vol. 18, Number 2, March 1988. "Tropical Fish Medicine". W. B. Saunders Company, Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, Inc., Philadelphia, PA. 1988.

This one will be a tough one to find. I checked a couple of places and had no listings come up for it. It is also a tough read since it was written for vets by vets.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 9:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: books on fish diseases

I have a book from Gratzek, "Fish Farming Handbook" Brown, Gratzek
300 pages , is it this one ?



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Raymond Wetzel
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 09:29
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: books on fish diseases

Steve, Not sure if I can help you. While I know of several other
books Gratzek put out, the only other ones I can think of that has
anything to do with diseases are "Fish Diseases and Water Chemistry"
(which may be part of the combined Aquariology - Master Volume before
it was published as one book) and "Fish Anatomy,Physiology and
Nutrition". Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> No, I was not thinking of the Johnson book, but of another book
edited by Graztek. It is a volume in a regular series of publications
put out for vets.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 11:39 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: books on fish diseases
>
> Gerard, It may be possible that the book which is trying to be
> remembered may (or may not) be "Koi Health and Diseases" by Erik L.
> Johnson, D.V.M., which is excellent for pond fish but also quite
> relevant to aquarium fishes, as it covers most common fungal,
viral,
> bacterial and parasitic protozoan diseases contracted by these
fish.
> It also goes into the basics of water quality and the nitrogen
cycle.
>
> Incidentally, "Aquariology -- Master Volume", while going into
other
> topics of interest, also delves into fish genetics by the recently
> deceased Dr. Joanne Norton who's work in this field with using
> Livebearers is world reknown. Her writings in this book go into
some
> depth in the genetics of Angelfish and the environmental aspects of
> some of their strains. A "must" book to have! Another decent book
> on the disease subject, which may have already been mentioned (as I
> don't quite recall) is "The Manual of Fish Health" by Dr. Chris
> Andrews, Adrian Exell and Dr. Neville Carrigton. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > The Aquariology Master Volume (John Gratzek) is a good one, who
> talk about
> > Anatomy, Physiology, Genetic, Diseases, and general aquarium
> maintenance,
> > out of print but available on www.Amazon.com and
> > http://www.abebooks.com/ so good to buy before no one left.
> >
> > Steve it's a second time you post about this vet book.... find
the
> title I
> > still have place for good book ......
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Steve Szabo
> > Envoyé : 24 juillet, 2006 22:44
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
> >
> > You might want to take a look at any book that has the name Dr.
> John Gratzek
> > attached to it. The Aquariology series has a good boo on disease.
> Out of
> > print now, but you can find it at used book stores from time to
> time, or
> > look at the ones offered on Amazon by used book dealers.
> >
> > Another good book, I'd have to get my sorry behind out of this
> chair to find
> > the title, was written by vets for vets. It can be pretty tough
> going. It is
> > a part of a series of books written by vets for vets, and is out
of
> print
> > also. This one is extremely hard to find, but if you have any
real
> interest
> > in it, I can check with some people I know to see if they have a
> copy
> > available.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of mytiel123
> > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 2:49 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] books on fish diseases
> >
> >
> > Can anyone suggest a good book on identifying and treating fish
> > diseases? Hopefully once I have cured my guppy I won't need it
but
> > better safe than sorry.
> >
> > Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17805 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Canadian Clubs [WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs
Gerard can start his looking at
http://www.caoac.on.ca/FramesetMain.html .

This is the page for the Canadian Association of Aquarium Clubs. Now,
not all Canadian clubs are members, but if I recall, there are one or
two in the Montreal area.

He can go directly to http://www.geocities.com/mtlfishclub/ for
information on the Montreal Aquarium Society.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 11:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet

Hello Gerard,
The Aquarium societies I have joined in the last several years have
greatly attributed to my fish knowledge. I also learn a lot on the
internet but as you mention eye to eye contact can help communicate
concepts easier.

The Societies bring in guest speakers each month on different aquatic
subjects. One club will have a speaker on the subject of Discus,
Bettas, Anabantoids, loaches, Angel fish, Planted aquariums, catfish,
and other subjects.

I belong to two general aquarium societies and a Cichlid one. The
cichlid one restricts speakers to cichlids, but we do make exceptioons
for catfish as it seems most cichlid keepers have a soft spot for
catfish.

I recently made it to the board of directors for one of the general
societies and now I (gulp) have to find a speaker for each meeting every
month.

The societies usually charge a minimal fee for members, have a monthly
newsletter discussing aquatic topics like how to breed or keep difficult
species of fish. We also have auctions at each monthly meeting where
you can bring in a bag of fish and either get breeder award points if
you donate the fish or sell the fish and the club gets a dollar per bag
and you get the rest. Or a percentage of the price. We get donation
from local fish stores and promote their stores. The money made from
membership and fish sales pays for speakers every month. Oh, we usually
also have a raffle every meeting with products donated by the
manufacturers of aquarium products aswell as local fish stores.

Some people that sell fish or get breeder award points from them are
bringing new fish into the fish hobby or rare fish that you cannot
locate in your local stores. They purchase fish from importers and try
their hand at breeding them and try to get them into the aquarium hobby.
It works great as I have gotten fish in the past that were not readily
available or impossible to get at chain stores.

Just last weekend was the American Cichlid Association (ACA) in Chicago
and I went and had a blast. They have this once a year and people from
all over North America and beyond attend. World reknowned speakers,
fish collectors, researchers, zoo and aquarium curators also attend.
You have a great chance of picking up rare fish at these meetings. Next
year it will be in Sacramento California and if anyone here is into
Cichlids do try and attend. It will be a blast!

Gerard I bet if we look around online we can find some Canadian aquarium
societies. We get a few Canadian aquarists to come down and speak at
our clubs every year and a couple of them are the best in their fields.


Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet


Mike you just touch something here " an Aquatic society " how many are
member here ? , is it not a good place to exchange, and learn. Internet
is
may be good for save money, it's good also for meet people in group like
this one, but nothing replace a society, with eye to eye contact,
something
who is getting rare and rare in this rat race we live today. For many
year I
was to busy for afford to travel 1 hour and a half to go in Montreal but
this Fall I will take the time since the big chain store close my
computer
store......

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17806 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Canadian Clubs [WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LF
Thanks Steve

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 29 juillet, 2006 19:10
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Canadian Clubs [WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs
Internet]

Gerard can start his looking at
http://www.caoac.on.ca/FramesetMain.html .

This is the page for the Canadian Association of Aquarium Clubs. Now,
not all Canadian clubs are members, but if I recall, there are one or
two in the Montreal area.

He can go directly to http://www.geocities.com/mtlfishclub/ for
information on the Montreal Aquarium Society.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 11:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet

Hello Gerard,
The Aquarium societies I have joined in the last several years have
greatly attributed to my fish knowledge. I also learn a lot on the
internet but as you mention eye to eye contact can help communicate
concepts easier.

The Societies bring in guest speakers each month on different aquatic
subjects. One club will have a speaker on the subject of Discus,
Bettas, Anabantoids, loaches, Angel fish, Planted aquariums, catfish,
and other subjects.

I belong to two general aquarium societies and a Cichlid one. The
cichlid one restricts speakers to cichlids, but we do make exceptioons
for catfish as it seems most cichlid keepers have a soft spot for
catfish.

I recently made it to the board of directors for one of the general
societies and now I (gulp) have to find a speaker for each meeting every
month.

The societies usually charge a minimal fee for members, have a monthly
newsletter discussing aquatic topics like how to breed or keep difficult
species of fish. We also have auctions at each monthly meeting where
you can bring in a bag of fish and either get breeder award points if
you donate the fish or sell the fish and the club gets a dollar per bag
and you get the rest. Or a percentage of the price. We get donation
from local fish stores and promote their stores. The money made from
membership and fish sales pays for speakers every month. Oh, we usually
also have a raffle every meeting with products donated by the
manufacturers of aquarium products aswell as local fish stores.

Some people that sell fish or get breeder award points from them are
bringing new fish into the fish hobby or rare fish that you cannot
locate in your local stores. They purchase fish from importers and try
their hand at breeding them and try to get them into the aquarium hobby.
It works great as I have gotten fish in the past that were not readily
available or impossible to get at chain stores.

Just last weekend was the American Cichlid Association (ACA) in Chicago
and I went and had a blast. They have this once a year and people from
all over North America and beyond attend. World reknowned speakers,
fish collectors, researchers, zoo and aquarium curators also attend.
You have a great chance of picking up rare fish at these meetings. Next
year it will be in Sacramento California and if anyone here is into
Cichlids do try and attend. It will be a blast!

Gerard I bet if we look around online we can find some Canadian aquarium
societies. We get a few Canadian aquarists to come down and speak at
our clubs every year and a couple of them are the best in their fields.


Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet


Mike you just touch something here " an Aquatic society " how many are
member here ? , is it not a good place to exchange, and learn. Internet
is
may be good for save money, it's good also for meet people in group like
this one, but nothing replace a society, with eye to eye contact,
something
who is getting rare and rare in this rat race we live today. For many
year I
was to busy for afford to travel 1 hour and a half to go in Montreal but
this Fall I will take the time since the big chain store close my
computer
store......

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17807 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Donna, et al.,

I'd urge you to support the local fish store--the mom and pop one, not PetsMart or Petco. They are the ones who keep the hobby alive. Sure, you can go online and find something for less, sometimes significantly less. It used to be that way at PetsMart and Petco--they used to be less expensive than the local store. That is because they can by in such volume, and often direct from the manufacturer, their costs are much lower--lower even than the wholesale cost to many distributors. The Internet companies operate the same way (That Fish Place is a bit different--Donna, you re probably close enough to make a day trip there).

Mom and Pop stores carry a fairly limited hardware and fish inventory. However, many of them know the products they sell (maybe not their help, but they do) and often care about how you do. They are also generally willing to get the equipment you want, if it is available to them through their supply chain. The same goes for fish--a fairly limited in store inventory, but access to many more species than you see in the store. Usually all you need to do is ask, and, depending on their supply cycle, you'll see it within a few days to a week or so. Some fish may not be immediately available to them, but they can try to get it. Like any other store, there are good ones and there are not so good ones.

The next level up is the large department store types--PetsMart and Petco. A limited low end selection of goods, same with fish, but with an occasional gem mixed in. The quality of their fish is also middling to low. For the most part, the staff doesn't know anything more than what someone at the store cared to tell them, and are of absolutely no help to the consumer. When they first come into an area, prices are very low, compared to the LFS, but as the LFS go out of business, the prices creep upward until you are paying as much, if not more, than the deal you got at the LFS.

The Internet stores are low priced, and likely to stay that way, because their competition is each other. I know that That Fish Place also has a physical location where you can go and buy the stuff they sell--I don't know how prices compare with the Internet price, but they are lowish at the store in Lancaster, PA. Unless they have someone filling in, the staff pretty much has a working knowledge of many of the products and fish they sell. They have probably driven out most of the LFS in the area, and will survive even an onslaught by PetsMart and Petco. I'm sure that some of the other Internet stores have a physical location as well, but do not know that for a fact. If you live near enough, take a trip over there. I'm sure you will be pleased. It has been a few years since I've been there, and I do keep meaning to carve out some time for a visit, but work and other things get in the way. It's about 3 hours from here.

So go, support the hobby by supporting your LFS, if it is good. Don't be the typical cheap American.

As a side light, did you know the fish in Europe are much better than the fish we get here, and most of the fish we consider to be rare here are common there? (Of course there are rare fish that are just that, no matter where you are.) The European hobbyists are willing to pay the price to get such things. Americans, for the most part, are not.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 6:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet

I don't know how it is in other parts of the globe, but in my part of the US
(New Jersey), I find that items are WAY cheaper if I order them on the
internet than if I buy them at the LFS. I can usually wait until the
suppliers run a special offer of free shipping. Is this true all over the
world?



I ask because with Doc Fosters and Big Al's and That Fish Place, PetSource,
PetSmart, PetCo and many others suppliers, I am always surprised when I see
a posting about something that is not available at the LFS.



I'd really like to support the LFS, but the price differential is just too
great in most cases. I buy tanks and stands and livestock (when available)
at various LFS, but other than that, emergency only.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish



Mike I suggest Hagen, because Kerry leave in or near Montreal, and they are
the main distributor, actually they push so much to buy from them ( with
their minimum annual sale) than some LFS have no choice than keep only their
product. It's sad, because we can have good other product .

In my aqua clear I always use 2 sponge, no charcoal or other think, so I
rinse them alternately, it's by far the cheapest way to filter water. What
I like also it's the possibility to adjust the flow on those filters. What I
don't like after a power failure, they discharge the water, and if the water
level is to low, they don't prime by themselves

The fact you will use probably the same gravel will speed up also, just keep
it moist.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com
Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 17:27
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters. Another benefit of the
AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the media area and when you
start another tank you can add the sponge to another aquaclear and you have
an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.

I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move to my new house right now
and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the new place and am going to
just drop my active sponge filters in before I add the fish from their old
tanks. It should speed things up a bit.

Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products but there are also
other companies that make sponge filters in different sizes for different
sized tanks and applications. I have some of the Hydro brand sponges and
they come in different sizes and you can even double the sponge on them for
different applications, they also make a large pore sponge to use as a
prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge companies on google
http://froogle.
<http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle>
google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle

I have also made some sponge filters in the past but you need to be very
cautious with the sponge material you use. I have heard some foam has
arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make sure it is open cell
foam so water can filter through the sponge, also if the pores are too small
they clog quickly and make the sponge almost useless. Not cost effective to
make them unless you want to make a dozen or more.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish

Kerry the sponge filter are good, but you need a air pump, noisy, you can
also buy a cheap aqua clear filter ( cost 17$) and put it in your main tank,
and use it in the quarantine if need if you don't have a air pump, the
cost of the sponge filter and the air pump is more than the aqua clear
filter, the only main advantage of the sponge filter is for the fry. It
will not suck them but it's good to always keep water in the quarantine,
very helpful for impulsive buy of fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17808 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Steve you can add cheap North American , the question was is it the same in
other place, yes people are cheap here to in Quebec, Canada

They are pro here they buy in big store and come to small one for help,
and they are not shy. And if you drop all the good customer you already
serving, they will let you know

I remember been at a small Land mower, repairing their computer, A customer
came, with is Land mower he buy at Canadian Tire ( big chain) and said it's
work 10 minutes and stop, they told me at Canadian Tire than you are
authorize dealer so fix it now I'm in the rush, the guy buy the thing
assemble himself and don't even put oil in the base of the engine. Of
course it was not on warranty, you should see the crises.

So people can buy where they want but at least they have to take their
responsibility.

But I see a different problem here, many small pet shop dislike fish, they
sold them because the distributor Hagen force them , they say they lost
money with them, so it's hard to find also a good LFS So a LFS yes, but not
anyone, one I like to go and been serve well, it's easy in my case I always
come with the part # I need, or know very well what I need.





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 29 juillet, 2006 19:33
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet


........So go, support the hobby by supporting your LFS, if it is good.
Don't be the typical cheap American.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17809 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Losing my cory cats
My albino cory cats recently died exactly like that. I'm going to be
keeping an eye on the replies to see what's up. I've got five panda
cories I'd like to keep around a while. The albino cory cat fish were
all around 3-4 years old, and at the same time I lost a 5 year old
regular cory catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17810 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Kerry,

If those goldfish are more than a couple of inches long each (body size), the problem is that you have too much fish for the quantity of water. When a goldfish reaches adult size, it requires about 30 gallons of water to keep. The problem you are seeing is probably the amount of waste put out by the fish. The water, normally, will acidify slowly, and water changes take care of this. In this case, the water changes cannot help stabilize the tank. They will just give a short lived boost to the water quality before it deteriorates more.

The end solution would be to give them more room. A 55 gallon will be able to support both of them when they reach adult size, but it wouldn't hurt them now. Of course, if you would like to end up with a number of successively larger tanks for other projects, you can get them a 20 now, a 30 a bit later on, then a 40, and finally, the move up to the 55.

As for your temperature, go ahead and start lowering it. When you see your heater come on, turn the thermostat down until the light goes off. Do this every day or two until you reach the temperature you wish to maintain.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 6:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph

I have two questions. # 1 I have finished treating for ich 4 days ago
but have kept my tank temp at 30c. All my fish are fine is it ok to
decrease the temp slowly back to normal? or should I wait a few more
days?
#2 I have a 10 gallon tank with two fantail goldfish and my tank ph
keeps dropping. I add ph up and it goes up but a few weeks later it
has dropped back down to about 6.2. My fish don't seem to mind but I
am wondering what might be causing it and what I can do to stop it
from happening. I have no problem maintaining my ph in my 32 gallon.
Kerry






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17811 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Testing methods
First, no matter what you use, you need to ensure that the strips or
reagents have not expired. If there is no expiration date on them, you
may as well consider they have expired.

The most reliable methods you have not mentioned. Gerard covered the
probe, but they can be tricky, and you do need to replace the tips from
time to time. They generally are fairly easy to calibrate, if you have
the proper solutions.

The liquid reagents are OK, but with some of the test kits you need to
add drops until a change occurs. This can lead to problems if you lose
count, put the drops in too fast, or have a problem recognizing when the
color changes.

The kits with the dry tabs are OK, but the problem is in getting the
tabs to dissolve completely.

Best is the powdered reagents that come in pillows that you need to
open. Once in a while I may have a problem getting all the reagent out,
but for the most part it is no problem. As with the tabs, the reagent is
premeasured for you, and as long as they are not out of date and you
have the proper measurement of water, you should get a good reading.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 8:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
naturalaquariumenthusiast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Testing methods

What testing methods are most reliable? I use the chemical drops into
the water tube for everything but I also occasionally use the dip
strips. I've heard that neither are all that reliable. I know
expiration is an issue and all of mine are current.
Today the pH tested at 7.2 w/ the chemical drip/water tube, then the
same water resulted in pH 6.8 of the dip strip.

~Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17812 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Testing methods
I agree with you Steve a real ph meter need some care especially the
electrode. . It's why I said I can give you link to know how to use it. I
was just giving an intro, but what is important is if you don't know how to
use one better use something else, I have hard time with the titration one,
it's hard to match the color.unless you have kit with vial with different
real liquid color chart ( usually sold only for laboratory) For my part I
use a electronic Ph meter, a Oxygen meter, and conductivity meter, for the
rest I use a spectrophotometer, with the appropriate filter and solution
than I prepare, The book Standard methods for examination of water and
wastewater give all the reactif and the way to make the etalon solution. I
take lottery ticket so may be one day I will have an Atomic Absorption one.
But those equipments are far way not for the regular hobbyist. One think
also the ammonia test , I think the company exaggerate their shelf life, I
will expect them between 2 to 6 months,





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 29 juillet, 2006 22:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Testing methods

First, no matter what you use, you need to ensure that the strips or
reagents have not expired. If there is no expiration date on them, you
may as well consider they have expired.

The most reliable methods you have not mentioned. Gerard covered the
probe, but they can be tricky, and you do need to replace the tips from
time to time. They generally are fairly easy to calibrate, if you have
the proper solutions.

The liquid reagents are OK, but with some of the test kits you need to
add drops until a change occurs. This can lead to problems if you lose
count, put the drops in too fast, or have a problem recognizing when the
color changes.

The kits with the dry tabs are OK, but the problem is in getting the
tabs to dissolve completely.

Best is the powdered reagents that come in pillows that you need to
open. Once in a while I may have a problem getting all the reagent out,
but for the most part it is no problem. As with the tabs, the reagent is
premeasured for you, and as long as they are not out of date and you
have the proper measurement of water, you should get a good reading.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 8:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
naturalaquariumenthusiast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Testing methods

What testing methods are most reliable? I use the chemical drops into
the water tube for everything but I also occasionally use the dip
strips. I've heard that neither are all that reliable. I know
expiration is an issue and all of mine are current.
Today the pH tested at 7.2 w/ the chemical drip/water tube, then the
same water resulted in pH 6.8 of the dip strip.

~Leslie


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17813 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 7/29/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Thanks you Steve!

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 6:33 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet


Donna, et al.,

I'd urge you to support the local fish store--the mom and pop one, not PetsMart or Petco. They are the ones who keep the hobby alive. Sure, you can go online and find something for less, sometimes significantly less. It used to be that way at PetsMart and Petco--they used to be less expensive than the local store. That is because they can by in such volume, and often direct from the manufacturer, their costs are much lower--lower even than the wholesale cost to many distributors. The Internet companies operate the same way (That Fish Place is a bit different--Donna, you re probably close enough to make a day trip there).

Mom and Pop stores carry a fairly limited hardware and fish inventory. However, many of them know the products they sell (maybe not their help, but they do) and often care about how you do. They are also generally willing to get the equipment you want, if it is available to them through their supply chain. The same goes for fish--a fairly limited in store inventory, but access to many more species than you see in the store. Usually all you need to do is ask, and, depending on their supply cycle, you'll see it within a few days to a week or so. Some fish may not be immediately available to them, but they can try to get it. Like any other store, there are good ones and there are not so good ones.

The next level up is the large department store types--PetsMart and Petco. A limited low end selection of goods, same with fish, but with an occasional gem mixed in. The quality of their fish is also middling to low. For the most part, the staff doesn't know anything more than what someone at the store cared to tell them, and are of absolutely no help to the consumer. When they first come into an area, prices are very low, compared to the LFS, but as the LFS go out of business, the prices creep upward until you are paying as much, if not more, than the deal you got at the LFS.

The Internet stores are low priced, and likely to stay that way, because their competition is each other. I know that That Fish Place also has a physical location where you can go and buy the stuff they sell--I don't know how prices compare with the Internet price, but they are lowish at the store in Lancaster, PA. Unless they have someone filling in, the staff pretty much has a working knowledge of many of the products and fish they sell. They have probably driven out most of the LFS in the area, and will survive even an onslaught by PetsMart and Petco. I'm sure that some of the other Internet stores have a physical location as well, but do not know that for a fact. If you live near enough, take a trip over there. I'm sure you will be pleased. It has been a few years since I've been there, and I do keep meaning to carve out some time for a visit, but work and other things get in the way. It's about 3 hours from here.

So go, support the hobby by supporting your LFS, if it is good. Don't be the typical cheap American.

As a side light, did you know the fish in Europe are much better than the fish we get here, and most of the fish we consider to be rare here are common there? (Of course there are rare fish that are just that, no matter where you are.) The European hobbyists are willing to pay the price to get such things. Americans, for the most part, are not.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17814 From: Mark Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Steve,
Steve made the point quite well, but I'd like to add a few things.

Your lfs employs your kids, or your neighbor's kids, and pays taxes to
your local government. They spend their profits in your local
community. None of the money you spend with an online retailer will
support your local community. A good lfs will be there for you when
you need them but only if you support them. If you don't buy as much
as possible from them, they may not be there the next time you want to
buy a tank or run out of food. The one thing you shouldn't do is to
treat them as a showroom for online retailers. Don't shop your lfs to
ask questions and figure out what products you want, only to go home
and order them online. These are small businesses with tight profit
margins and it hurts their bottom line when people take the employees'
time without making a purchase. They've spent money and time to train
their employees, and the only way they get a return on that investment
is when the employees use that training to help a customer make a
purchase.
Mark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17815 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Kerry,

If those goldfish are more than a couple of inches long each (body
size), the
problem is that you have too much fish for the quantity of water.
When a
goldfish reaches adult size, it requires about 30 gallons of water
to keep. The
problem you are seeing is probably the amount of waste put out by
the fish. The
water, normally, will acidify slowly, and water changes take care of
this. In
this case, the water changes cannot help stabilize the tank. They
will just give
a short lived boost to the water quality before it deteriorates more.

The end solution would be to give them more room. A 55 gallon will
be able to
support both of them when they reach adult size, but it wouldn't
hurt them now.
Of course, if you would like to end up with a number of successively
larger
tanks for other projects, you can get them a 20 now, a 30 a bit
later on, then a
40, and finally, the move up to the 55.

As for your temperature, go ahead and start lowering it. When you
see your
heater come on, turn the thermostat down until the light goes off.
Do this every
day or two until you reach the temperature you wish to maintain.

\\Steve//


Thank you Steve
I think I am going to put them into my pond. I wish the pet shop
had told me this before I got them. I have really learnt my lesson
to do my homework before purchasing fish. I think my family would
disown me if I started taking over the house with aquariums. I have
to slowly let them get used to the three I have then try and sneak
in another one.....lol.
would 2 dwarf gouramis and a bottom feeder be too much for a 10
gallon?
Or do you have any other fish that would do fine in a tank of that
size?
one last question..can an apple snail live in a heated tank?
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17816 From: chris topher Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
all valid points, and i do prefer supporting small
businesses...

but here the LFS fish are not as healthy as the petco
fish, and the college kids that get paid minimum wage
to ignore customers dont know enough to answer my
questions, at the local petco they have longer term
employees...

when i lived in northern ca i was lucky enough to have
access to 2 excellent shops, now that i'm in wisc the
best shop is a 2 hr drive away in the twin cities,
great place, called world of fish...

so...i end up at petco...

plants i order through the internet as very few LFS's
have much of selection...

woody...

--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

> Donna, et al.,
>
> I'd urge you to support the local fish store--the
> mom and pop one, not PetsMart or Petco. They are the
> ones who keep the hobby alive. Sure, you can go
> online and find something for less, sometimes
> significantly less. It used to be that way at
> PetsMart and Petco--they used to be less expensive
> than the local store. That is because they can by in
> such volume, and often direct from the manufacturer,
> their costs are much lower--lower even than the
> wholesale cost to many distributors. The Internet
> companies operate the same way (That Fish Place is a
> bit different--Donna, you re probably close enough
> to make a day trip there).
>
> Mom and Pop stores carry a fairly limited hardware
> and fish inventory. However, many of them know the
> products they sell (maybe not their help, but they
> do) and often care about how you do. They are also
> generally willing to get the equipment you want, if
> it is available to them through their supply chain.
> The same goes for fish--a fairly limited in store
> inventory, but access to many more species than you
> see in the store. Usually all you need to do is ask,
> and, depending on their supply cycle, you'll see it
> within a few days to a week or so. Some fish may not
> be immediately available to them, but they can try
> to get it. Like any other store, there are good ones
> and there are not so good ones.
>
> The next level up is the large department store
> types--PetsMart and Petco. A limited low end
> selection of goods, same with fish, but with an
> occasional gem mixed in. The quality of their fish
> is also middling to low. For the most part, the
> staff doesn't know anything more than what someone
> at the store cared to tell them, and are of
> absolutely no help to the consumer. When they first
> come into an area, prices are very low, compared to
> the LFS, but as the LFS go out of business, the
> prices creep upward until you are paying as much, if
> not more, than the deal you got at the LFS.
>
> The Internet stores are low priced, and likely to
> stay that way, because their competition is each
> other. I know that That Fish Place also has a
> physical location where you can go and buy the stuff
> they sell--I don't know how prices compare with the
> Internet price, but they are lowish at the store in
> Lancaster, PA. Unless they have someone filling in,
> the staff pretty much has a working knowledge of
> many of the products and fish they sell. They have
> probably driven out most of the LFS in the area, and
> will survive even an onslaught by PetsMart and
> Petco. I'm sure that some of the other Internet
> stores have a physical location as well, but do not
> know that for a fact. If you live near enough, take
> a trip over there. I'm sure you will be pleased. It
> has been a few years since I've been there, and I do
> keep meaning to carve out some time for a visit, but
> work and other things get in the way. It's about 3
> hours from here.
>
> So go, support the hobby by supporting your LFS, if
> it is good. Don't be the typical cheap American.
>
> As a side light, did you know the fish in Europe are
> much better than the fish we get here, and most of
> the fish we consider to be rare here are common
> there? (Of course there are rare fish that are just
> that, no matter where you are.) The European
> hobbyists are willing to pay the price to get such
> things. Americans, for the most part, are not.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> Donna Ransome
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 6:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS
> vs Internet
>
> I don't know how it is in other parts of the globe,
> but in my part of the US
> (New Jersey), I find that items are WAY cheaper if I
> order them on the
> internet than if I buy them at the LFS. I can
> usually wait until the
> suppliers run a special offer of free shipping. Is
> this true all over the
> world?
>
>
>
> I ask because with Doc Fosters and Big Al's and That
> Fish Place, PetSource,
> PetSmart, PetCo and many others suppliers, I am
> always surprised when I see
> a posting about something that is not available at
> the LFS.
>
>
>
> I'd really like to support the LFS, but the price
> differential is just too
> great in most cases. I buy tanks and stands and
> livestock (when available)
> at various LFS, but other than that, emergency only.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:42 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish
>
>
>
> Mike I suggest Hagen, because Kerry leave in or near
> Montreal, and they are
> the main distributor, actually they push so much to
> buy from them ( with
> their minimum annual sale) than some LFS have no
> choice than keep only their
> product. It's sad, because we can have good other
> product .
>
> In my aqua clear I always use 2 sponge, no charcoal
> or other think, so I
> rinse them alternately, it's by far the cheapest way
> to filter water. What
> I like also it's the possibility to adjust the flow
> on those filters. What I
> don't like after a power failure, they discharge the
> water, and if the water
> level is to low, they don't prime by themselves
>
> The fact you will use probably the same gravel will
> speed up also, just keep
> it moist.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> De la
> part de Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com
> Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 17:27
> À : AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish
>
> I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters.
> Another benefit of the
> AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the
> media area and when you
> start another tank you can add the sponge to another
> aquaclear and you have
> an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.
>
> I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move
> to my new house right now
> and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the
> new place and am going to
> just drop my active sponge filters in before I add
> the fish from their old
> tanks. It should speed things up a bit.
>
> Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products
> but there are also
> other companies that make sponge filters in
> different sizes for different
> sized tanks and applications. I have some of the
> Hydro brand sponges and
> they come in different sizes and you can even double
> the sponge on them for
> different applications, they also make a large pore
> sponge to use as a
> prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge
> companies on google
> http://froogle.
>
<http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle>
>
google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle
>
> I have also made some sponge filters in the past but
> you need to be very
> cautious with the sponge material you use. I have
> heard some foam has
> arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make
> sure
=== message truncated ===




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17817 From: harry perry Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet/Notice the posts length.
My opinion. In a lot of groups folks complain about not deleating previous posts when responding. This is a perfect example of why you shouldn't delete.

I am involved in all the fish groups I could find. I could come home to over 200 messages in my mail box. It is impossible to follow a thread or idea if all the previous posts are deleated.On the flip side it takes a lot of time to go thru each post.

So, the solution that works for me is to create folders to save the messages in.

When I need info or a source this message will be in my "aquarium supply folder" ready to help me save money.Thanks.

Harry





chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote: all valid points, and i do prefer supporting small
businesses...

but here the LFS fish are not as healthy as the petco
fish, and the college kids that get paid minimum wage
to ignore customers dont know enough to answer my
questions, at the local petco they have longer term
employees...

when i lived in northern ca i was lucky enough to have
access to 2 excellent shops, now that i'm in wisc the
best shop is a 2 hr drive away in the twin cities,
great place, called world of fish...

so...i end up at petco...

plants i order through the internet as very few LFS's
have much of selection...

woody...

--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

> Donna, et al.,
>
> I'd urge you to support the local fish store--the
> mom and pop one, not PetsMart or Petco. They are the
> ones who keep the hobby alive. Sure, you can go
> online and find something for less, sometimes
> significantly less. It used to be that way at
> PetsMart and Petco--they used to be less expensive
> than the local store. That is because they can by in
> such volume, and often direct from the manufacturer,
> their costs are much lower--lower even than the
> wholesale cost to many distributors. The Internet
> companies operate the same way (That Fish Place is a
> bit different--Donna, you re probably close enough
> to make a day trip there).
>
> Mom and Pop stores carry a fairly limited hardware
> and fish inventory. However, many of them know the
> products they sell (maybe not their help, but they
> do) and often care about how you do. They are also
> generally willing to get the equipment you want, if
> it is available to them through their supply chain.
> The same goes for fish--a fairly limited in store
> inventory, but access to many more species than you
> see in the store. Usually all you need to do is ask,
> and, depending on their supply cycle, you'll see it
> within a few days to a week or so. Some fish may not
> be immediately available to them, but they can try
> to get it. Like any other store, there are good ones
> and there are not so good ones.
>
> The next level up is the large department store
> types--PetsMart and Petco. A limited low end
> selection of goods, same with fish, but with an
> occasional gem mixed in. The quality of their fish
> is also middling to low. For the most part, the
> staff doesn't know anything more than what someone
> at the store cared to tell them, and are of
> absolutely no help to the consumer. When they first
> come into an area, prices are very low, compared to
> the LFS, but as the LFS go out of business, the
> prices creep upward until you are paying as much, if
> not more, than the deal you got at the LFS.
>
> The Internet stores are low priced, and likely to
> stay that way, because their competition is each
> other. I know that That Fish Place also has a
> physical location where you can go and buy the stuff
> they sell--I don't know how prices compare with the
> Internet price, but they are lowish at the store in
> Lancaster, PA. Unless they have someone filling in,
> the staff pretty much has a working knowledge of
> many of the products and fish they sell. They have
> probably driven out most of the LFS in the area, and
> will survive even an onslaught by PetsMart and
> Petco. I'm sure that some of the other Internet
> stores have a physical location as well, but do not
> know that for a fact. If you live near enough, take
> a trip over there. I'm sure you will be pleased. It
> has been a few years since I've been there, and I do
> keep meaning to carve out some time for a visit, but
> work and other things get in the way. It's about 3
> hours from here.
>
> So go, support the hobby by supporting your LFS, if
> it is good. Don't be the typical cheap American.
>
> As a side light, did you know the fish in Europe are
> much better than the fish we get here, and most of
> the fish we consider to be rare here are common
> there? (Of course there are rare fish that are just
> that, no matter where you are.) The European
> hobbyists are willing to pay the price to get such
> things. Americans, for the most part, are not.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> Donna Ransome
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 6:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS
> vs Internet
>
> I don't know how it is in other parts of the globe,
> but in my part of the US
> (New Jersey), I find that items are WAY cheaper if I
> order them on the
> internet than if I buy them at the LFS. I can
> usually wait until the
> suppliers run a special offer of free shipping. Is
> this true all over the
> world?
>
>
>
> I ask because with Doc Fosters and Big Al's and That
> Fish Place, PetSource,
> PetSmart, PetCo and many others suppliers, I am
> always surprised when I see
> a posting about something that is not available at
> the LFS.
>
>
>
> I'd really like to support the LFS, but the price
> differential is just too
> great in most cases. I buy tanks and stands and
> livestock (when available)
> at various LFS, but other than that, emergency only.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:42 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish
>
>
>
> Mike I suggest Hagen, because Kerry leave in or near
> Montreal, and they are
> the main distributor, actually they push so much to
> buy from them ( with
> their minimum annual sale) than some LFS have no
> choice than keep only their
> product. It's sad, because we can have good other
> product .
>
> In my aqua clear I always use 2 sponge, no charcoal
> or other think, so I
> rinse them alternately, it's by far the cheapest way
> to filter water. What
> I like also it's the possibility to adjust the flow
> on those filters. What I
> don't like after a power failure, they discharge the
> water, and if the water
> level is to low, they don't prime by themselves
>
> The fact you will use probably the same gravel will
> speed up also, just keep
> it moist.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> De la
> part de Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com
> Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 17:27
> À : AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish
>
> I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters.
> Another benefit of the
> AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the
> media area and when you
> start another tank you can add the sponge to another
> aquaclear and you have
> an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.
>
> I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move
> to my new house right now
> and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the
> new place and am going to
> just drop my active sponge filters in before I add
> the fish from their old
> tanks. It should speed things up a bit.
>
> Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products
> but there are also
> other companies that make sponge filters in
> different sizes for different
> sized tanks and applications. I have some of the
> Hydro brand sponges and
> they come in different sizes and you can even double
> the sponge on them for
> different applications, they also make a large pore
> sponge to use as a
> prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge
> companies on google
> http://froogle.
>
<http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle>
>
google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle
>
> I have also made some sponge filters in the past but
> you need to be very
> cautious with the sponge material you use. I have
> heard some foam has
> arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make
> sure
=== message truncated ===

test'; ">

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17818 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
"but here the LFS fish are not as healthy as the petco
fish, and the college kids that get paid minimum wage
to ignore customers dont know enough to answer my
questions, at the local petco they have longer term
employees..."


I am right there with you. Our LFS is not too health conscious of their
fish. And the college kid that works there full time, alone, knows
NOTHING about them.
The best store is an hour away and well worth the drive. I do end up at
PetSmart quite a bit. (I refuse to shop at PETCO even though it's
closer. They are horrible!) Petsmart isn't much better but at least
the people there have a clue as to what they are talking about, unlike
our LFS. And they take care of their fish much better than our LFS.
So the internet gets a big chunk of my business. Unfortunately.

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>



.

<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
sgId=17816&stime=1154268423&nc1=1&nc2=2&nc3=3>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17819 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Kerry don't be worry after so many year I make also impulsive buy, and after
when I come home I have to reconfigure the thing because the fish don't fit


to do my homework before purchasing fish.
one last question..can an apple snail live in a heated tank?



I guest you see the beautiful yellow apple snail they have at big AL, good
question I want buy few too


Kerry







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17820 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
You know they don't sell apple snails here anymore? It's ILLEGAL to
import them...something about the rice fields.
~Leslie (in Arkansas)

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>



.

<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
sgId=17819&stime=1154276573&nc1=1&nc2=2&nc3=3>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17821 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
They have a lot in Montreal, so now we will have to send you snail, like
Cuban cigar? Seriously it's funny, because most of our pest insect here was
bring by the biologist of the government. To control sickness in the tree.
Now they don't know what to do they have no predator to eat them, like in
Chilli they import our beaver to I don't remember control what, now they
have the same problem as us with them do you have rice field in US ?




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 30 juillet, 2006 12:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails

You know they don't sell apple snails here anymore? It's ILLEGAL to
import them...something about the rice fields.
~Leslie (in Arkansas)

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>



.

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17822 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Yes, there are exceptions. I at least alluded to that if not outright said it. I remember a Petco in Shrewsbury, MA who had a manager in the fish department who did a very good job wit the fish and his employees. That fish department was on par with the better LFS in the area. Now, here in Northern VA, the PetsMart does not have the employees that together know more than someone who blindly starts in the hobby not knowing a thing, and they don't seem to stick around long enough to learn. I go in there every few weeks to buy cat food, and have pretty much given up on checking to see what they might have, other than glancing over on my way in. About six months ago, I went in because I needed some tubing of a large ID. It was for a pump in an outdoor fountain that we have on the back deck that contains a couple of water plants, but would be of the same size as for a canister filter. No doubt you know immediately what I am talking about. The people there had not a clue. I did find what I needed at the Lowes nearby. This area is recently built up and has a lack of the old hardware stores, mom and pop groceries, etc. I do have to travel some distance to get to a decent LFS, however, the next time I went, they had the exact tubing I had been looking for (the LFS, not PetsMart).


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 10:03 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet

all valid points, and i do prefer supporting small
businesses...

but here the LFS fish are not as healthy as the petco
fish, and the college kids that get paid minimum wage
to ignore customers dont know enough to answer my
questions, at the local petco they have longer term
employees...

when i lived in northern ca i was lucky enough to have
access to 2 excellent shops, now that i'm in wisc the
best shop is a 2 hr drive away in the twin cities,
great place, called world of fish...

so...i end up at petco...

plants i order through the internet as very few LFS's
have much of selection...

woody...

--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

> Donna, et al.,
>
> I'd urge you to support the local fish store--the
> mom and pop one, not PetsMart or Petco. They are the
> ones who keep the hobby alive. Sure, you can go
> online and find something for less, sometimes
> significantly less. It used to be that way at
> PetsMart and Petco--they used to be less expensive
> than the local store. That is because they can by in
> such volume, and often direct from the manufacturer,
> their costs are much lower--lower even than the
> wholesale cost to many distributors. The Internet
> companies operate the same way (That Fish Place is a
> bit different--Donna, you re probably close enough
> to make a day trip there).
>
> Mom and Pop stores carry a fairly limited hardware
> and fish inventory. However, many of them know the
> products they sell (maybe not their help, but they
> do) and often care about how you do. They are also
> generally willing to get the equipment you want, if
> it is available to them through their supply chain.
> The same goes for fish--a fairly limited in store
> inventory, but access to many more species than you
> see in the store. Usually all you need to do is ask,
> and, depending on their supply cycle, you'll see it
> within a few days to a week or so. Some fish may not
> be immediately available to them, but they can try
> to get it. Like any other store, there are good ones
> and there are not so good ones.
>
> The next level up is the large department store
> types--PetsMart and Petco. A limited low end
> selection of goods, same with fish, but with an
> occasional gem mixed in. The quality of their fish
> is also middling to low. For the most part, the
> staff doesn't know anything more than what someone
> at the store cared to tell them, and are of
> absolutely no help to the consumer. When they first
> come into an area, prices are very low, compared to
> the LFS, but as the LFS go out of business, the
> prices creep upward until you are paying as much, if
> not more, than the deal you got at the LFS.
>
> The Internet stores are low priced, and likely to
> stay that way, because their competition is each
> other. I know that That Fish Place also has a
> physical location where you can go and buy the stuff
> they sell--I don't know how prices compare with the
> Internet price, but they are lowish at the store in
> Lancaster, PA. Unless they have someone filling in,
> the staff pretty much has a working knowledge of
> many of the products and fish they sell. They have
> probably driven out most of the LFS in the area, and
> will survive even an onslaught by PetsMart and
> Petco. I'm sure that some of the other Internet
> stores have a physical location as well, but do not
> know that for a fact. If you live near enough, take
> a trip over there. I'm sure you will be pleased. It
> has been a few years since I've been there, and I do
> keep meaning to carve out some time for a visit, but
> work and other things get in the way. It's about 3
> hours from here.
>
> So go, support the hobby by supporting your LFS, if
> it is good. Don't be the typical cheap American.
>
> As a side light, did you know the fish in Europe are
> much better than the fish we get here, and most of
> the fish we consider to be rare here are common
> there? (Of course there are rare fish that are just
> that, no matter where you are.) The European
> hobbyists are willing to pay the price to get such
> things. Americans, for the most part, are not.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> Donna Ransome
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 6:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS
> vs Internet
>
> I don't know how it is in other parts of the globe,
> but in my part of the US
> (New Jersey), I find that items are WAY cheaper if I
> order them on the
> internet than if I buy them at the LFS. I can
> usually wait until the
> suppliers run a special offer of free shipping. Is
> this true all over the
> world?
>
>
>
> I ask because with Doc Fosters and Big Al's and That
> Fish Place, PetSource,
> PetSmart, PetCo and many others suppliers, I am
> always surprised when I see
> a posting about something that is not available at
> the LFS.
>
>
>
> I'd really like to support the LFS, but the price
> differential is just too
> great in most cases. I buy tanks and stands and
> livestock (when available)
> at various LFS, but other than that, emergency only.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 5:42 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish
>
>
>
> Mike I suggest Hagen, because Kerry leave in or near
> Montreal, and they are
> the main distributor, actually they push so much to
> buy from them ( with
> their minimum annual sale) than some LFS have no
> choice than keep only their
> product. It's sad, because we can have good other
> product .
>
> In my aqua clear I always use 2 sponge, no charcoal
> or other think, so I
> rinse them alternately, it's by far the cheapest way
> to filter water. What
> I like also it's the possibility to adjust the flow
> on those filters. What I
> don't like after a power failure, they discharge the
> water, and if the water
> level is to low, they don't prime by themselves
>
> The fact you will use probably the same gravel will
> speed up also, just keep
> it moist.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> De la
> part de Deenerz@aol. <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> com
> Envoyé : 28 juillet, 2006 17:27
> À : AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] re: starter fish
>
> I use both sponge filters and AquaClear filters.
> Another benefit of the
> AquaClear is you can add a second sponge in the
> media area and when you
> start another tank you can add the sponge to another
> aquaclear and you have
> an almost instant aquarium set up and cycled.
>
> I am in the process of packing up 25 tanks to move
> to my new house right now
> and I am setting up some of my empty tanks in the
> new place and am going to
> just drop my active sponge filters in before I add
> the fish from their old
> tanks. It should speed things up a bit.
>
> Hagen is an excellent company for aquarium products
> but there are also
> other companies that make sponge filters in
> different sizes for different
> sized tanks and applications. I have some of the
> Hydro brand sponges and
> they come in different sizes and you can even double
> the sponge on them for
> different applications, they also make a large pore
> sponge to use as a
> prefilter on pond applications. Some sponge
> companies on google
> http://froogle.
>
<http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle>
>
google.com/froogle?q=sponge+filter&btnG=Search+Froogle
>
> I have also made some sponge filters in the past but
> you need to be very
> cautious with the sponge material you use. I have
> heard some foam has
> arsenic in it, not good for fish. Also need to make
> sure
=== message truncated ===




test'; ">

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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17823 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Kerry,

Plant the tank, place in the dwarf gouramis and maybe some panda
corydoras or other small catfish. Then you might also like to add a few
rasboras--don't know what will be available to you, but there are a
number of nice rasbora seen in the trade, and you should be good to go.
If rasbora don't tickle your fancy, try some zebrafish instead.

I've not kept apple snails, but I have seen them in heated tanks. There
are some snail people who hang around here, so they may see your
question and be able to give you far more information than I can.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 9:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph


Kerry,

If those goldfish are more than a couple of inches long each (body
size), the
problem is that you have too much fish for the quantity of water.
When a
goldfish reaches adult size, it requires about 30 gallons of water
to keep. The
problem you are seeing is probably the amount of waste put out by
the fish. The
water, normally, will acidify slowly, and water changes take care of
this. In
this case, the water changes cannot help stabilize the tank. They
will just give
a short lived boost to the water quality before it deteriorates more.

The end solution would be to give them more room. A 55 gallon will
be able to
support both of them when they reach adult size, but it wouldn't
hurt them now.
Of course, if you would like to end up with a number of successively
larger
tanks for other projects, you can get them a 20 now, a 30 a bit
later on, then a
40, and finally, the move up to the 55.

As for your temperature, go ahead and start lowering it. When you
see your
heater come on, turn the thermostat down until the light goes off.
Do this every
day or two until you reach the temperature you wish to maintain.

\\Steve//


Thank you Steve
I think I am going to put them into my pond. I wish the pet shop
had told me this before I got them. I have really learnt my lesson
to do my homework before purchasing fish. I think my family would
disown me if I started taking over the house with aquariums. I have
to slowly let them get used to the three I have then try and sneak
in another one.....lol.
would 2 dwarf gouramis and a bottom feeder be too much for a 10
gallon?
Or do you have any other fish that would do fine in a tank of that
size?
one last question..can an apple snail live in a heated tank?
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17824 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
I'm going to toss out my view on this, yeah I look around at prices on the internet and such but can honestly say haven't bought anything but fish online and the only reason that is either my LFS can't get it, something I feel I can't live without, or a breeder that has exceptional stock would like to introduce into something that I'm currently working on etc...

My favorite LFS as far as tanks is hard to beat anywhere in a wide radius from me, he does offer 20% discount to the aquarium club I belong too on all regular priced items. All the business I do with does scratch my back so to speak, he gives me very good trade value for my fish no matter what or if its only 1 or 2. He does give a cash discount also that works good for me.

Now if his store wasn't there I'd be lost LOL I'm one of those people if I need something I want to be able to jump in the vehicle and go get it just plain and simple. Yeah we have a local Wallyworld but that is for the simple things, extra airline that isn't feasible to drive over to the next town, gang way, just those things that are quick and simple or the after hours for the LFS when a heater is needed for a emergency. Yeah there are a few other LFS that I do go to but his is my personal favorite no way around that, do as much shopping as possible there. Can't tell you how over joyed I was when he finally opened a store front and yeah he's had some employees that well became undesirable but he stays on top of it, yeah he makes me catch my own fish but that's cool too our joke is that way I can't say he caught the wrong one.

Guess the short of it haven't caught up with the times as far as doing shopping online for the extra supplies needed. Though if I can't get it locally will probably at least by a couple bigger air pumps on line here soon as that is a investment that needs to be made.

Shannon


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17825 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
I wasn't aware of it but Arkansas has lots of rice fields. I could be
a snail smuggler now. (Smuggle, what an odd sounding word.)

WHY does that stupid link keep showing up in my replies? grrrrr

~L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 12:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails



They have a lot in Montreal, so now we will have to send you snail, like
Cuban cigar? Seriously it's funny, because most of our pest insect here
was
bring by the biologist of the government. To control sickness in the
tree.
Now they don't know what to do they have no predator to eat them, like
in
Chilli they import our beaver to I don't remember control what, now they
have the same problem as us with them do you have rice field in US ?

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 30 juillet, 2006 12:43
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails

You know they don't sell apple snails here anymore? It's ILLEGAL to
import them...something about the rice fields.
~Leslie (in Arkansas)

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

.

<http://geo.yahoo.
<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
> com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
sgId=17819&stime=1154276573&nc1=1&nc2=2&nc3=3>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17826 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Woody,
"Northern Ca"
Is this Northern California by any chance? If so whereabouts?
I live in the East Bay, just moved to Livermore.

Mike

In a message dated 7/30/2006 7:07:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
humbottom@... writes:
when i lived in northern ca i was lucky enough to have
access to 2 excellent shops, now that i'm in wisc the
best shop is a 2 hr drive away in the twin cities,
great place, called world of fish...

so...i end up at petco...

plants i order through the internet as very few LFS's
have much of selection...

woody...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17827 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Kerry,

Plant the tank, place in the dwarf gouramis and maybe some panda
corydoras or other small catfish. Then you might also like to add a few
rasboras--don't know what will be available to you, but there are a
number of nice rasbora seen in the trade, and you should be good to go.
If rasbora don't tickle your fancy, try some zebrafish instead.

I've not kept apple snails, but I have seen them in heated tanks. There
are some snail people who hang around here, so they may see your
question and be able to give you far more information than I can.


\\Steve//

could I fit all this in a ten gallon?? or do I stick with one of the
other?

Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17828 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
Leslie for your link check in the option of you email client, check for the
signature, it's may be set as a signature. If you don't find tell me your
email client (outlook, outlook express, or other) I will look and tell you





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 30 juillet, 2006 13:41
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails

I wasn't aware of it but Arkansas has lots of rice fields. I could be
a snail smuggler now. (Smuggle, what an odd sounding word.)

WHY does that stupid link keep showing up in my replies? grrrrr

~L
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17829 From: chris topher Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
: )

depends on if you consider NoCal to be a geographic or
geopolitical designation...

looking at a map SF is smack dab in the middle of the
state, yet people from san jose consider themselves
northern californian...

i was in humboldt and then mendocino counties, the
fish shops were in eureka, great shops but about 5
hours or more from livermore...

woody

--- Deenerz@... wrote:

> Woody,
> "Northern Ca"
> Is this Northern California by any chance? If so
> whereabouts?
> I live in the East Bay, just moved to Livermore.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 7/30/2006 7:07:28 AM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> humbottom@... writes:
> when i lived in northern ca i was lucky enough to
> have
> access to 2 excellent shops, now that i'm in wisc
> the
> best shop is a 2 hr drive away in the twin cities,
> great place, called world of fish...
>
> so...i end up at petco...
>
> plants i order through the internet as very few
> LFS's
> have much of selection...
>
> woody...
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17830 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
"At a temperature of 25°C, they will only live 12-16 months. At higher
temperatures, the snails are more active because their metabolism increases
with the temperature, but this also speeds up their life cycle and thus
shortens their life expectancy.
So you can elongate your snail's life by lowering the temperature. A general
rule: keep the temperature between 18 and 28°C (65-82°F).
It is suspected that at least some apple snail species need an aestivation
period in the mud to avoid burning-out."

Extract of this web site

http://www.applesnail.net/


Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 30 juillet, 2006 13:47
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph

Kerry,

Plant the tank, place in the dwarf gouramis and maybe some panda
corydoras or other small catfish. Then you might also like to add a few
rasboras--don't know what will be available to you, but there are a
number of nice rasbora seen in the trade, and you should be good to go.
If rasbora don't tickle your fancy, try some zebrafish instead.

I've not kept apple snails, but I have seen them in heated tanks. There
are some snail people who hang around here, so they may see your
question and be able to give you far more information than I can.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17831 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
I did that when all that other junk was going on in the other group.
There are no signatures set to go out at all on my email.
There are some set to go out on replies and I usually delete them as
they show up when I am typing.

I won't delete them this time but there should be only three: 2 garage
sale links and 1 Zainy Zebra link. That's all that is showing up.

~Leslie


Cabot Garage Sale: <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/

Little Rock Garage Sale: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LRgarageSale/

Zainy Zebra Children's Consignment! <http://www.zainyzebra.com/>
www.ZainyZebra.com
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 5:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails



Leslie for your link check in the option of you email client, check for
the
signature, it's may be set as a signature. If you don't find tell me
your
email client (outlook, outlook express, or other) I will look and tell
you

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 30 juillet, 2006 13:41
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails

I wasn't aware of it but Arkansas has lots of rice fields. I could be
a snail smuggler now. (Smuggle, what an odd sounding word.)

WHY does that stupid link keep showing up in my replies? grrrrr

~L







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17832 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Yes, you can. Limit the number of rasboras or zebras to 6 and the pandas
or other small curies to 3, and you should have plenty of room. If you
can, try to find a naturally colored pair of dwarf gouramis. When kept
properly, the colors are far superior, IMHO, to the variants you see out
there.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 6:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph




Kerry,

Plant the tank, place in the dwarf gouramis and maybe some panda
corydoras or other small catfish. Then you might also like to add a few
rasboras--don't know what will be available to you, but there are a
number of nice rasbora seen in the trade, and you should be good to go.
If rasbora don't tickle your fancy, try some zebrafish instead.

I've not kept apple snails, but I have seen them in heated tanks. There
are some snail people who hang around here, so they may see your
question and be able to give you far more information than I can.


\\Steve//

could I fit all this in a ten gallon?? or do I stick with one of the
other?

Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17833 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Yes, you can. Limit the number of rasboras or zebras to 6 and the
pandas
or other small curies to 3, and you should have plenty of room. If
you
can, try to find a naturally colored pair of dwarf gouramis. When
kept
properly, the colors are far superior, IMHO, to the variants you see
out
there.


\\Steve//


Thanks so much.
I will start putting plants in as I only had plastic in it for the
goldfish. Which fish should I first introduce?
I hope I am not being a pain with all these questions.
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17834 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Introduce the gouramis last. The others, makes no matter. The gouramis
will rule the tank, if you do it right, and you do not want them to get
a jump on the other fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 7:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph




Yes, you can. Limit the number of rasboras or zebras to 6 and the
pandas
or other small curies to 3, and you should have plenty of room. If
you
can, try to find a naturally colored pair of dwarf gouramis. When
kept
properly, the colors are far superior, IMHO, to the variants you see
out
there.


\\Steve//


Thanks so much.
I will start putting plants in as I only had plastic in it for the
goldfish. Which fish should I first introduce?
I hope I am not being a pain with all these questions.
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17835 From: mytiel123 Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph
Introduce the gouramis last. The others, makes no matter. The gouramis
will rule the tank, if you do it right, and you do not want them to get
a jump on the other fish.


\\Steve\\


will do. thanks again
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17836 From: shewolf6873 Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: help with fire bellied newt
I have a fire bellied newt. He staying outside of the water most of
the time and is not moving much. Any ideas?

Tammy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17837 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails
they almost destroyed the rice industry in SE Asia when they were imported
there to produce a cheaper snail for escargot. Many places have banned them
for that reason.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, 30 July 2006 11:43
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tank temp and ph/ now Apple Snails



You know they don't sell apple snails here anymore? It's ILLEGAL to
import them...something about the rice fields.
~Leslie (in Arkansas)

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

.

<http://geo.yahoo.
<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m>
com/serv?s=97359714&grpId=8495157&grpspId=1600042752&m
sgId=17819&stime=1154276573&nc1=1&nc2=2&nc3=3>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17838 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Well then you understand that given a choice no one North of Fresno claims
to be from So Cal ;)

I was recently talking about the ACA convention that is to be held in
Sacramento next year and a guy said, oh I already been to California. Pretty nice.
I asked where and he said So Cal, Disney land. I told him that's a whole
other world down there.
Another guy I met years ago from Ny state said the whole state of California
was a desert, but he had ony been In the Southland. :)

Mike


In a message dated 7/30/2006 3:25:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
humbottom@... writes:


depends on if you consider NoCal to be a geographic or
geopolitical designation.ge

looking at a map SF is smack dab in the middle of the
state, yet people from san jose consider themselves
northern californian.no





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17839 From: chris topher Date: 7/31/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
one of my favorite topics, if i was a polisci grad
student i'd do my dissertation on it...

i pretty much divide the state into 5 areas SoCal,
central valley, bay area, NorCal, and the sierras
(which includes the foot hills)...

its a damn big state...

--- Deenerz@... wrote:

>
> Well then you understand that given a choice no one
> North of Fresno claims
> to be from So Cal ;)
>
> I was recently talking about the ACA convention that
> is to be held in
> Sacramento next year and a guy said, oh I already
> been to California. Pretty nice.
> I asked where and he said So Cal, Disney land. I
> told him that's a whole
> other world down there.
> Another guy I met years ago from Ny state said the
> whole state of California
> was a desert, but he had ony been In the Southland.
> :)
>
> Mike
>
>
> In a message dated 7/30/2006 3:25:13 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> humbottom@... writes:
>
>
> depends on if you consider NoCal to be a geographic
> or
> geopolitical designation.ge
>
> looking at a map SF is smack dab in the middle of
> the
> state, yet people from san jose consider themselves
> northern californian.no
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17840 From: harry perry Date: 7/31/2006
Subject: An experiment
A ten gallon tank with heater, filter, gravel and a large clump of java moss. No fish.

Blue green algae and regular "on the glass" algae covered everything.

Saturday 7/29/07 I took the charcoal bag out of the filter and added two tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide and took the light off the timer. No light just ambient light.

Monday 7/31/07 their isn't any algae anywhere and the moss is pearling.

Somwhere in the groups I've read of other folks trying this but with fish in the tank.

Has anyone tried it with fish in this group?

Thanks

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17841 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: [UniQuaria] An experiment
Harry,



I have used Hydrogen peroxide many times in my Malawi cichlid tank and it
does work well. However, I have also had it kill most of my plants. Are you
sure the bubbles in the moss are pearling bubbles or is it just the action
of hydrogen peroxide? Did you inject CO2 in the tank?



Nim



_____

From: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com [mailto:UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of harry perry
Sent: 01 August 2006 02:44
To: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com; anubiasdesign@yahoogroups.com;
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [UniQuaria] An experiment



A ten gallon tank with heater, filter, gravel and a large clump of java
moss. No fish.

Blue green algae and regular "on the glass" algae covered everything.

Saturday 7/29/07 I took the charcoal bag out of the filter and added two
tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide and took the light off the timer. No light
just ambient light.

Monday 7/31/07 their isn't any algae anywhere and the moss is pearling.

Somwhere in the groups I've read of other folks trying this but with fish in
the tank.

Has anyone tried it with fish in this group?

Thanks

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario



_____

Do you Yahoo!?
Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=42241/*http:/advision.webevents.yahoo.com/handra
isers> Yahoo! Mail Beta.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17842 From: chris topher Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: An experiment
i have used peroxide with both fish and plants in the
tank, with no harm coming to either...

1 oz per ten gallons is what was recommended, i used
less than half that with terrific results...

also seems to work on hair algae and brown algae...

woody



--- harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:

> A ten gallon tank with heater, filter, gravel and a
> large clump of java moss. No fish.
>
> Blue green algae and regular "on the glass" algae
> covered everything.
>
> Saturday 7/29/07 I took the charcoal bag out of the
> filter and added two tablespoons of hydrogen
> peroxide and took the light off the timer. No light
> just ambient light.
>
> Monday 7/31/07 their isn't any algae anywhere and
> the moss is pearling.
>
> Somwhere in the groups I've read of other folks
> trying this but with fish in the tank.
>
> Has anyone tried it with fish in this group?
>
> Thanks
>
> Harry
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new
> Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17843 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: what to do with green algea water?
Hi
My 150 gallon tank is doing great, all fish are healthy and happy but
since Saturday when I "vaccumed" last time the water has got more and
more cloudy and greenish.
I have 2 36 inch 196w daylight/actinic lights over the tank and have
lights on about 10 hours a day. I don't think I over feed the fish but
I've been giving them a lot of shrimp pellets lately. Does anyone know
what could be the cause and if there is any good way of getting rid of
the cloudiness and algea?
thanks in advance
Magdalena and the south American community
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17844 From: bunnycareshi Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Toilet that features live aquarium
Aloha

I thought I'd seen it all. Watching the NBC Today show
just now they were featuring the latest features in
toilets and showed this "Fish n Flush" toilet from
Aqua One Technologies, featuring live aquarium:

http://www.thrillist.com/archives/2006/07/number_one_fish_number_two_fish.html

Cinde

http://www.thrillist.com/archives/2006/07/number_one_fish_number_two_fish.html

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17845 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Farlowella Fry
Hello this afternoon, I look at my tank and see a tappod on a leave of
lettuce , I give to my baby Silver Dollar, when I come closer, I
discover it was not a tappod but a Farlowella fry, a more closer look
make me count 5 and a grape of 40 eggs on the tube of the filter, So
I immediately put sponge at the entrance of the filter, but what I
should give to the fry to eat, are they eating biofilm or micro
algae, they are algae eater when adult. I never raise Farlowella
fry, and I don't see literature on it.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17846 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: Farlowella Fry
Congrats! I would check www.planetcatfish.com.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 7:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Farlowella Fry



Hello this afternoon, I look at my tank and see a tappod on a leave of
lettuce , I give to my baby Silver Dollar, when I come closer, I
discover it was not a tappod but a Farlowella fry, a more closer look
make me count 5 and a grape of 40 eggs on the tube of the filter, So
I immediately put sponge at the entrance of the filter, but what I
should give to the fry to eat, are they eating biofilm or micro
algae, they are algae eater when adult. I never raise Farlowella
fry, and I don't see literature on it.

Gerard





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17847 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: what to do with green algea water?
you probably just kicked up a bunch of mulm from the rocks that caused an
algae bloom... would let it just go for a few days and it should clear up.
If this becomes a regular problem...you might want to thin of putting some
live plants in your tank. The live plants compete for food with the algae
and generally win ;-)

Eric


_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of eandtuta1924
Sent: Tuesday, 01 August 2006 12:49
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] what to do with green algea water?



Hi
My 150 gallon tank is doing great, all fish are healthy and happy but
since Saturday when I "vaccumed" last time the water has got more and
more cloudy and greenish.
I have 2 36 inch 196w daylight/actinic lights over the tank and have
lights on about 10 hours a day. I don't think I over feed the fish but
I've been giving them a lot of shrimp pellets lately. Does anyone know
what could be the cause and if there is any good way of getting rid of
the cloudiness and algea?
thanks in advance
Magdalena and the south American community






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17848 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: Farlowella Fry
Feed all kinds of greens (romaine and kale seems to be favored) freeze the veggies first to wilt them, makes it easier for them to eat. Carrots are good too, cut real thin, and blanch them first to soften them.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gérard Gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 6:09 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Farlowella Fry


Hello this afternoon, I look at my tank and see a tappod on a leave of
lettuce , I give to my baby Silver Dollar, when I come closer, I
discover it was not a tappod but a Farlowella fry, a more closer look
make me count 5 and a grape of 40 eggs on the tube of the filter, So
I immediately put sponge at the entrance of the filter, but what I
should give to the fry to eat, are they eating biofilm or micro
algae, they are algae eater when adult. I never raise Farlowella
fry, and I don't see literature on it.

Gerard





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17849 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
Not to put a damper on your enthusiasm for this bit of aquaria, but the
fish toilet has been around for years--see
http://www.elseware.to/products/aq.htm . There is also an aquarium sink
to go along with the toilet:
http://www.luxuryhousingtrends.com/archives/2005/05/aquarium_sink_m.html
and, for those of you who spend too much time in the kitchen, the
aquarium backsplash: http://www.encorekitchens.com/ .

If you look hard enough, you'll also find other unusual aquaria, a\such
s the flat panel aquarium that you can hang on the wall like a picture
http://www.livingpictures.co.uk/, and others.

The first go round of the toilet aquarium was prior to the birth of this
list, and was well covered in other lists.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 3:53 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Toilet that features live aquarium

Aloha

I thought I'd seen it all. Watching the NBC Today show
just now they were featuring the latest features in
toilets and showed this "Fish n Flush" toilet from
Aqua One Technologies, featuring live aquarium:

http://www.thrillist.com/archives/2006/07/number_one_fish_number_two_fis
h.html

Cinde

http://www.thrillist.com/archives/2006/07/number_one_fish_number_two_fis
h.html
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17850 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 8/1/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
ohmygod...and it's not just "American Excess" either!
It seems the Brits are equally loopy!


__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17851 From: Ken & Julie Tobiassen Date: 8/2/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
I've seen these, but there not in the same league as Fish N' Flush.

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Not to put a damper on your enthusiasm for this bit of aquaria, but the
fish toilet has been around for years--see
http://www.elseware.to/products/aq.htm . There is also an aquarium sink
to go along with the toilet:
http://www.luxuryhousingtrends.com/archives/2005/05/aquarium_sink_m.html
and, for those of you who spend too much time in the kitchen, the
aquarium backsplash: http://www.encorekitchens.com/ .

If you look hard enough, you'll also find other unusual aquaria, a\such
s the flat panel aquarium that you can hang on the wall like a picture
http://www.livingpictures.co.uk/, and others.

The first go round of the toilet aquarium was prior to the birth of this
list, and was well covered in other lists.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 3:53 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Toilet that features live aquarium

Aloha

I thought I'd seen it all. Watching the NBC Today show
just now they were featuring the latest features in
toilets and showed this "Fish n Flush" toilet from
Aqua One Technologies, featuring live aquarium:

http://www.thrillist.com/archives/2006/07/number_one_fish_number_two_fis
h.html

Cinde

http://www.thrillist.com/archives/2006/07/number_one_fish_number_two_fis
h.html






---------------------------------
See the all-new, redesigned Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17852 From: Ken & Julie Tobiassen Date: 8/2/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
Just like having something no one else has. Just think you will be the talk of the town. The maintenance is sooo easy to.

Christa Ciglan <cciglan@...> wrote: ohmygod...and it's not just "American Excess" either!
It seems the Brits are equally loopy!

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com





---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17853 From: Matt Date: 8/2/2006
Subject: Nitrite spike
Last Tuesday evening I started CO2 (DIY) injection for my plants.
Unfortunately, I chose a poor time to start it since I was not able to
test the water until this evening (approx. 48 hours later).

The readings came back with a drop in pH (-1.0) and a spike in my
nitrite levels. I assume that the drop in pH is a result of too much
CO2, but does CO2 or pH levels affect nitrites?

Also, I tested the water about 4 hours into the normal 12 hour shift.
Could it be that the pH was lower due to the CO2 not being used by
the plants while the light was off? 1 whole degree of pH seems like a
pretty wild swing.

The CO2 levels have been cut back to allow the pH to gradually work
its way back to normal. Tomorrow I plan on doing a water change.

Matt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17854 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
Matt the less your water have buffer capability the more the ph will drop
what is the kh of your water, it have to be at least 70 for use with Co2
For the nitrite, usually even when cycling a new tank heavy planted, with
good light and co2, you will not have spike of ammonia and nitrite, so I
think this nitrite spike was there before.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Matt
Envoyé : 2 août, 2006 21:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Nitrite spike

Last Tuesday evening I started CO2 (DIY) injection for my plants.
Unfortunately, I chose a poor time to start it since I was not able to
test the water until this evening (approx. 48 hours later).

The readings came back with a drop in pH (-1.0) and a spike in my
nitrite levels. I assume that the drop in pH is a result of too much
CO2, but does CO2 or pH levels affect nitrites?

Also, I tested the water about 4 hours into the normal 12 hour shift.
Could it be that the pH was lower due to the CO2 not being used by
the plants while the light was off? 1 whole degree of pH seems like a
pretty wild swing.

The CO2 levels have been cut back to allow the pH to gradually work
its way back to normal. Tomorrow I plan on doing a water change.

Matt





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17855 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
Matt, I would like to come back in my answer , what is the PH when it's at
the lower end, because acidity can inhibit more the bacteria who transform
the nitrite in nitrate than the one who take charge of the ammonia.

And other thing also , is it a long time planted aquarium? What is the
color of the gravel, I'm worry if it will not be cause by denitrification,
where the nitrate is transform in nitrite by anaerobic bacteria.

Did you measure also the ammonia.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gerard gagnon
Envoyé : 3 août, 2006 07:20
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Nitrite spike

Matt the less your water have buffer capability the more the ph will drop
what is the kh of your water, it have to be at least 70 for use with Co2
For the nitrite, usually even when cycling a new tank heavy planted, with
good light and co2, you will not have spike of ammonia and nitrite, so I
think this nitrite spike was there before.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Matt
Envoyé : 2 août, 2006 21:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Nitrite spike

Last Tuesday evening I started CO2 (DIY) injection for my plants.
Unfortunately, I chose a poor time to start it since I was not able to
test the water until this evening (approx. 48 hours later).

The readings came back with a drop in pH (-1.0) and a spike in my
nitrite levels. I assume that the drop in pH is a result of too much
CO2, but does CO2 or pH levels affect nitrites?

Also, I tested the water about 4 hours into the normal 12 hour shift.
Could it be that the pH was lower due to the CO2 not being used by
the plants while the light was off? 1 whole degree of pH seems like a
pretty wild swing.

The CO2 levels have been cut back to allow the pH to gradually work
its way back to normal. Tomorrow I plan on doing a water change.

Matt





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links










Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17856 From: Matt Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
Gerard,

I'll have to get a kh test kit to determine how hard my water is. I
actually have a kh test kit I got from someone, but unfortunately the
little card that tells you what your reading is was missing.

Assuming the nitrites were there before (although my readings were 0),
I should expect to see them drop as the nitrite eating bacteria
increases, correct?

I checked this morning and the pH has gone up slightly (+.2 to 6.8),
but the nitrites appear to be at the same level.

Matt

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Matt the less your water have buffer capability the more the ph will
drop
> what is the kh of your water, it have to be at least 70 for use with Co2
> For the nitrite, usually even when cycling a new tank heavy
planted, with
> good light and co2, you will not have spike of ammonia and nitrite,
so I
> think this nitrite spike was there before.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Matt
> Envoyé : 2 août, 2006 21:57
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Nitrite spike
>
> Last Tuesday evening I started CO2 (DIY) injection for my plants.
> Unfortunately, I chose a poor time to start it since I was not able to
> test the water until this evening (approx. 48 hours later).
>
> The readings came back with a drop in pH (-1.0) and a spike in my
> nitrite levels. I assume that the drop in pH is a result of too much
> CO2, but does CO2 or pH levels affect nitrites?
>
> Also, I tested the water about 4 hours into the normal 12 hour shift.
> Could it be that the pH was lower due to the CO2 not being used by
> the plants while the light was off? 1 whole degree of pH seems like a
> pretty wild swing.
>
> The CO2 levels have been cut back to allow the pH to gradually work
> its way back to normal. Tomorrow I plan on doing a water change.
>
> Matt
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17857 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
This is not related to CO2, but I had a nitrite reading this week for the
first time since starting my tank 266 days ago. (This tank did not have to
experience a cycle at start-up, since I added bacteria from an established
tank.)



I noticed the fish hanging around at the top, so I tested all parameters.
Ammonia was 0 and nitrite was 0.5. I changed 50% of the water (time for my
weekly 50% water change/substrate cleaning anyway), reducing nitrite to 0.25
which made my fish immediately happy. I added bacteria from another
established tank (used filter cartridge). Within 24 hours the nitrite was
gone.



Don’t know what happened. I had been feeding fish in that tank with
metronidazole-soaked food for 4 days as bloat insurance while other infected
individuals are in the hospital tank for bloat. I have used this
metronidazole treatment before without impact to the bacteria (I tested).



Anyway, all seems back to normal at this time!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Matt
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 7:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Nitrite spike



Gerard,

I'll have to get a kh test kit to determine how hard my water is. I
actually have a kh test kit I got from someone, but unfortunately the
little card that tells you what your reading is was missing.

Assuming the nitrites were there before (although my readings were 0),
I should expect to see them drop as the nitrite eating bacteria
increases, correct?

I checked this morning and the pH has gone up slightly (+.2 to 6.8),
but the nitrites appear to be at the same level.

Matt

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Matt the less your water have buffer capability the more the ph will
drop
> what is the kh of your water, it have to be at least 70 for use with Co2
> For the nitrite, usually even when cycling a new tank heavy
planted, with
> good light and co2, you will not have spike of ammonia and nitrite,
so I
> think this nitrite spike was there before.
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
> part de Matt
> Envoyé : 2 août, 2006 21:57
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Nitrite spike
>
> Last Tuesday evening I started CO2 (DIY) injection for my plants.
> Unfortunately, I chose a poor time to start it since I was not able to
> test the water until this evening (approx. 48 hours later).
>
> The readings came back with a drop in pH (-1.0) and a spike in my
> nitrite levels. I assume that the drop in pH is a result of too much
> CO2, but does CO2 or pH levels affect nitrites?
>
> Also, I tested the water about 4 hours into the normal 12 hour shift.
> Could it be that the pH was lower due to the CO2 not being used by
> the plants while the light was off? 1 whole degree of pH seems like a
> pretty wild swing.
>
> The CO2 levels have been cut back to allow the pH to gradually work
> its way back to normal. Tomorrow I plan on doing a water change.
>
> Matt
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17858 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: random fishy question
I have ghost fish, and some glass fish, and I was just wondering if
anyone could explain why they are clear when alive, but when they are
dead, they are pink? My eldest daughter asked me that question, and I
could not answer her.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17859 From: angel Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: yellow water question
Hi I have a 55 gal tank tat my water has turned yellow.I have 6 tanks and I
have never had this happen before. I did a partial but still yellow water.



Any ideas?



Thanks,

Angel



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17860 From: Kevin Batey Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Do you have driftwood in the tank?

angel <asplendidscrapbooks@...> wrote: Hi I have a 55 gal tank tat my water has turned yellow.I have 6 tanks and I
have never had this happen before. I did a partial but still yellow water.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Angel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17861 From: angel Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Why yes I do… I bought it from a guy that had it in his tank. So I rinsed it
off with water and put it in. My 1st time using driftwood.



Please tell me more…



Thanks, Angel



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin Batey
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 3:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] yellow water question



Do you have driftwood in the tank?

angel <asplendidscrapbooks <mailto:asplendidscrapbooks%40comcast.net>
@...> wrote: Hi I have a 55 gal tank tat my water has turned
yellow.I have 6 tanks and I
have never had this happen before. I did a partial but still yellow water.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Angel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
Groups are talking. We´re listening. Check out the handy changes to
Yahoo! Groups.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17862 From: Kevin Batey Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Driftwood turns water a little yellow (kind of tea colored) and can lower the PH some, which CAN be a good thing if your PH is too high - Otherwise, it doesn't hurt anything - some people (and fish) like the effect and the slightly lower PH.

You will probably not be able to stop your water from changing color at least a little while you are using it - My guess is that you'll have to decide if you like it or not and take it frm there - you probably should test your PH, though and make sure it's not lowering too much...

- Kevin

angel <asplendidscrapbooks@...> wrote:
Why yes I do… I bought it from a guy that had it in his tank. So I rinsed it
off with water and put it in. My 1st time using driftwood.

Please tell me more…

Thanks, Angel

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin Batey
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 3:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] yellow water question

Do you have driftwood in the tank?

angel <asplendidscrapbooks <mailto:asplendidscrapbooks%40comcast.net>
@...> wrote: Hi I have a 55 gal tank tat my water has turned
yellow.I have 6 tanks and I
have never had this happen before. I did a partial but still yellow water.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Angel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
Groups are talking. We´re listening. Check out the handy changes to
Yahoo! Groups.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17863 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Have you recently added anything to the tanks?

> Hi I have a 55 gal tank tat my water has turned yellow.I have 6 tanks
and I
> have never had this happen before. I did a partial but still yellow
water.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17864 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
Ah...driftwood can release tannins into the water. Won't hurt the fish,
unless it's holly wood, which poisons them, but can turn the water
brown or yellow. Try soaking the driftwood in bleachy water for a few
days, then in clean water, then in hydrogen peroxide to bleach it out a
bit and it should help

> Why yes I do… I bought it from a guy that had it in his tank. So I
rinsed it
> off with water and put it in. My 1st time using driftwood.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17865 From: Robb Rouse Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Bow front and corner unit tank
Hello all and glad to read most of you are doing fine. I have a question and hoping I can get some advice and or answers here. I'm ready for my next tank. I was wondering what people thought of bow front and corner unit tank. Is the glass in the bow front tanks as strong as flat tank glass? I can get a 72 gallon with stand for $400 or I could get a 75 flat tank with stand for a few bucks less. Anyhow just thought I toss this out here and see what people have to say.

Robb from Utah

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17866 From: Matt Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
pH - 6.6, normally 7.6
Ammonia - nearly 0 (less than .25 mg/L)
Nitrite - about 1 mg/L
Nitrate - about 10 mg/L

I think I may have made a noob mistake. This is my first tank and I
believe I may have underestimated the time it takes for a tank to
cycle. All the reading I have done has described the nitrogen cycle,
but I can't remember one of them providing some sort of timeline.

I have had the tank running for only three weeks now. Up until
recently I had not been able to test my water (no kit) and when I did
start testing it, nitrites and ammonia were 0 and nitrates were like
5. I thought maybe the tank had already cycled (ha), but I am
thinking I have jumped the gun and the tank is just now cycling.

I also neglected to redose the tank with the bacteria starter per the
bottles instructions.

Right now the tank is planted in gravel. Since it is new anaerobic
bacteria shouldn't be a problem since mulm and the gravel hasn't had a
chance to become compacted. It is the compaction, in part, that leads
to anaerobic bacteria growing correct?

Matt

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Matt, I would like to come back in my answer , what is the PH when
it's at
> the lower end, because acidity can inhibit more the bacteria who
transform
> the nitrite in nitrate than the one who take charge of the ammonia.
>
> And other thing also , is it a long time planted aquarium? What is the
> color of the gravel, I'm worry if it will not be cause by
denitrification,
> where the nitrate is transform in nitrite by anaerobic bacteria.
>
> Did you measure also the ammonia.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17867 From: bri_ann225 Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Brand New Here With a Question!
Hi all..my name is Ann, and I just joined this group to hopefully get
some answers. I currently have a 45 gallon freshwater aquarium. My
DH just bought me two tanks from someone who moved and had let them
sit for quite a while...and they still had fish in them..and alive
too..which is hard to believe since there hadn't been any power to the
house for two months!!!

Anyway, one tank is freshwater, which I can handle (100 gallon) and
the other is saltwater (75 gallon). I don't have a CLUE about
saltwater tanks. There were three tiny fish in the saltwater and
several in the other tank.

I guess I'm debating on the saltwater tank..and not sure I want to
take on the challenge. The tank was full of coral also..and it has
started turning black. If these satwater fish don't make it in the
makeshift tank I put them in for now...can I use the saltwater tank
for freshwater fish? May sound stupid, and I know I'll have to clean
the tank..just don't want to clean it and fill it and put the fish in
only to have them croak.

Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated. Oh..and he bought both
tanks..huge stands and ALLL the supplies for fifty bucks! lol Good
hubby! hehehe

Thanks
Ann
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17868 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Bow front and corner unit tank
I have a flat front 75 and a bow front 46, I would buy a bow front 72 to
replace my 75 in a heartbeat. It adds an amazing elegance to the set up
and the room that it's in.
Really gorgeous and it lets you see the natural beauty inside the tank
rather than the "glued" seams that I see on the 75.

Good luck!

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Robb Rouse
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 3:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bow front and corner unit tank



Hello all and glad to read most of you are doing fine. I have a question
and hoping I can get some advice and or answers here. I'm ready for my
next tank. I was wondering what people thought of bow front and corner
unit tank. Is the glass in the bow front tanks as strong as flat tank
glass? I can get a 72 gallon with stand for $400 or I could get a 75
flat tank with stand for a few bucks less. Anyhow just thought I toss
this out here and see what people have to say.

Robb from Utah

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17869 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Brand New Here With a Question!
FIFTY BUCKS!?!?!?! I have goosebumps. That is soooo cool for you!

lol
Sorry, I have no clue on the saltwater. I do freshwater. Just had to
"scream" out my excitement for you. =)

You might try a site called www.aquaria.info. It's a forum and there
are tons of people that do salt setups there.

Good luck and keep me posted!

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bri_ann225
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 5:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Brand New Here With a Question!



Hi all..my name is Ann, and I just joined this group to hopefully get
some answers. I currently have a 45 gallon freshwater aquarium. My
DH just bought me two tanks from someone who moved and had let them
sit for quite a while...and they still had fish in them..and alive
too..which is hard to believe since there hadn't been any power to the
house for two months!!!

Anyway, one tank is freshwater, which I can handle (100 gallon) and
the other is saltwater (75 gallon). I don't have a CLUE about
saltwater tanks. There were three tiny fish in the saltwater and
several in the other tank.

I guess I'm debating on the saltwater tank..and not sure I want to
take on the challenge. The tank was full of coral also..and it has
started turning black. If these satwater fish don't make it in the
makeshift tank I put them in for now...can I use the saltwater tank
for freshwater fish? May sound stupid, and I know I'll have to clean
the tank..just don't want to clean it and fill it and put the fish in
only to have them croak.

Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated. Oh..and he bought both
tanks..huge stands and ALLL the supplies for fifty bucks! lol Good
hubby! hehehe

Thanks
Ann







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17870 From: Sandra Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Gold goumaries
I have a gold gourmai in my 10 gallon fish tank, along with a blue
paradise gourmi. Can anyone tell me anything about these lovly fish?
Sandra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17871 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Brand New Here With a Question!
..which is hard to believe since there hadn't been any power to the house for two momths !!
That is amazing !
There were three tiny fish in the saltwater and
several in the other
Describe them, I'll tell you what they are.
...can I use the saltwater tank
for freshwater fish?
Yes, you may have to change substrat

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: bri_ann225
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 5:44 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Brand New Here With a Question!


Hi all..my name is Ann, and I just joined this group to hopefully get
some answers. I currently have a 45 gallon freshwater aquarium. My
DH just bought me two tanks from someone who moved and had let them
sit for quite a while...and they still had fish in them..and alive
too..which is hard to believe since there hadn't been any power to the
house for two months!!!

Anyway, one tank is freshwater, which I can handle (100 gallon) and
the other is saltwater (75 gallon). I don't have a CLUE about
saltwater tanks. There were three tiny fish in the saltwater and
several in the other tank.

I guess I'm debating on the saltwater tank..and not sure I want to
take on the challenge. The tank was full of coral also..and it has
started turning black. If these satwater fish don't make it in the
makeshift tank I put them in for now...can I use the saltwater tank
for freshwater fish? May sound stupid, and I know I'll have to clean
the tank..just don't want to clean it and fill it and put the fish in
only to have them croak.

Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated. Oh..and he bought both
tanks..huge stands and ALLL the supplies for fifty bucks! lol Good
hubby! hehehe

Thanks
Ann





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17872 From: Evita Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Bow front and corner unit tank
Robb, Is it a plex glass or plain glass? I myself never like the bow fronts. But I heard that the more surface space the better for the fish. Say a 50 gal tall couldn't hold as much fish as a 50 gal long. Bottom line I would go with what you like the best. Your money, your choice. Evita

ast.net> wrote: Hello all and glad to read most of you are doing fine. I have a question and hoping I can get some advice and or answers here. I'm ready for my next tank. I was wondering what people thought of bow front and corner unit tank. Is the glass in the bow front tanks as strong as flat tank glass? I can get a 72 gallon with stand for $400 or I could get a 75 flat tank with stand for a few bucks less. Anyhow just thought I toss this out here and see what people have to say.

Robb from Utah

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17873 From: sunshynehs Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Babies?
Okay... I just fed my Angelfish. I noticed that I have some new little
orange eggs on one of the broad plant leaves. They were not there this
morning.

I have no clue what I am supposed to do at this point. Any pointers
please?

Thanks,
Heather in Bensalem, PA
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17874 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/3/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
Did really say the were, but, if you could collect the whole set! You'd probably be the only one on your block with them!


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken & Julie Tobiassen
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 12:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Toilet that features live aquarium

I've seen these, but there not in the same league as Fish N' Flush.

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Not to put a damper on your enthusiasm for this bit of aquaria, but the
fish toilet has been around for years--see
http://www.elseware.to/products/aq.htm . There is also an aquarium sink
to go along with the toilet:
http://www.luxuryhousingtrends.com/archives/2005/05/aquarium_sink_m.html
and, for those of you who spend too much time in the kitchen, the
aquarium backsplash: http://www.encorekitchens.com/ .

If you look hard enough, you'll also find other unusual aquaria, a\such
s the flat panel aquarium that you can hang on the wall like a picture
http://www.livingpictures.co.uk/, and others.

The first go round of the toilet aquarium was prior to the birth of this
list, and was well covered in other lists.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 3:53 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Toilet that features live aquarium

Aloha

I thought I'd seen it all. Watching the NBC Today show
just now they were featuring the latest features in
toilets and showed this "Fish n Flush" toilet from
Aqua One Technologies, featuring live aquarium:

http://www.thrillist.com/archives/2006/07/number_one_fish_number_two_fis
h.html

Cinde

http://www.thrillist.com/archives/2006/07/number_one_fish_number_two_fis
h.html






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17875 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrite spike
A natural cycle will be established in 4-8 weeks. There are some tricks
that can shorten this time period by a bit, but, generally, you cannot
eliminate the process. The test kits we use may not measure it, but each
time the biological load is increased, there is a period of adjustment
in the tank while it adjusts to the new load.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Matt
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 7:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Nitrite spike

pH - 6.6, normally 7.6
Ammonia - nearly 0 (less than .25 mg/L)
Nitrite - about 1 mg/L
Nitrate - about 10 mg/L

I think I may have made a noob mistake. This is my first tank and I
believe I may have underestimated the time it takes for a tank to
cycle. All the reading I have done has described the nitrogen cycle,
but I can't remember one of them providing some sort of timeline.

I have had the tank running for only three weeks now. Up until
recently I had not been able to test my water (no kit) and when I did
start testing it, nitrites and ammonia were 0 and nitrates were like
5. I thought maybe the tank had already cycled (ha), but I am
thinking I have jumped the gun and the tank is just now cycling.

I also neglected to redose the tank with the bacteria starter per the
bottles instructions.

Right now the tank is planted in gravel. Since it is new anaerobic
bacteria shouldn't be a problem since mulm and the gravel hasn't had a
chance to become compacted. It is the compaction, in part, that leads
to anaerobic bacteria growing correct?

Matt

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Matt, I would like to come back in my answer , what is the PH when
it's at
> the lower end, because acidity can inhibit more the bacteria who
transform
> the nitrite in nitrate than the one who take charge of the ammonia.
>
> And other thing also , is it a long time planted aquarium? What is
the
> color of the gravel, I'm worry if it will not be cause by
denitrification,
> where the nitrate is transform in nitrite by anaerobic bacteria.
>
> Did you measure also the ammonia.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17876 From: Ann Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Brand New Here With a Question!
Lmao...thank you Leslie! I was pretty darn excited myself! lol The guy
that had it was pretty into aquariums, but ran into some personal
problems...and was just needing money and didn't want to move it all. How
often does a deal like that happen! lol By the time we got them all taken
apart yesterday I was too tired to put it all up, so going to dig in today!
lol I still just can't believe those saltwater fish are still alive! All
the fish for that matter! Anyway..thanks again for the shared excitement!
:)
Ann

************************************************************************************************
FIFTY BUCKS!?!?!?! I have goosebumps. That is soooo cool for you!

lol
Sorry, I have no clue on the saltwater. I do freshwater. Just had to
"scream" out my excitement for you. =)

You might try a site called www.aquaria.info. It's a forum and there
are tons of people that do salt setups there.

Good luck and keep me posted!

Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17877 From: Ann Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Brand New Here With a Question!
Hi Sissy...Thanks for the reply, but since I know nothing of saltwater, what
do you mean by "change substrat"? The 3 little ones in the saltwater
tank..two are black with white spots and the other is a plain silver..kinda
like a gourami..only tiny. Thanks again for the reply and info.
Ann


****************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Brand New Here With a Question!


..which is hard to believe since there hadn't been any power to the house
for two momths !!
That is amazing !
There were three tiny fish in the saltwater and
several in the other
Describe them, I'll tell you what they are.
...can I use the saltwater tank
for freshwater fish?
Yes, you may have to change substrat

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17878 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Bow front and corner unit tank
I've never had amy problem with our bow front tank. It's a 65 gallon
tank and appears to be perfectly sturdy. I got it used two years ago,
and the person who had it before me had it for around eight years.

> Hello all and glad to read most of you are doing fine. I have a
question and hoping I can get some advice and or answers here. I'm
ready for my next tank. I was wondering what people thought of bow
front and corner unit tank. Is the glass in the bow front tanks as
strong as flat tank glass? I can get a 72 gallon with stand for $400 or
I could get a 75 flat tank with stand for a few bucks less. Anyhow just
thought I toss this out here and see what people have to say.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17879 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
The paradise gourami can be extremely aggressive. The gold dwarf
gourami's are usually peaceable when they are the only gourami in the
tank, but can get aggressive when another gourami is introduced into
the tank.

> I have a gold gourmai in my 10 gallon fish tank, along with a blue
> paradise gourmi. Can anyone tell me anything about these lovly fish?
> Sandra
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17880 From: Ken & Julie Tobiassen Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Toilet that features live aquarium
That is true.

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Did really say the were, but, if you could collect the whole set! You'd probably be the only one on your block with them!

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken & Julie Tobiassen
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 12:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Toilet that features live aquarium

I've seen these, but there not in the same league as Fish N' Flush.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17881 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: After the Fawlowella it's now the Sturisoma
Hello all, I don't know what happen, after my Farlowella it's my
Sturisoma who lay eggs, look than they likes their water. I was not
prepare, but next time I will be. Here some link to picture who will
not win a photo contest.

Gérard


http://www.aqualab.ca/sturisoma.htm

http://www.aqualab.ca/farlowella.htm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17882 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: random fishy question
I really don't know. I have not kept much in the way of the "glass"
fishes for a very long time. I would suspect it may be due to bacterial
action after death.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 12:52 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] random fishy question

I have ghost fish, and some glass fish, and I was just wondering if
anyone could explain why they are clear when alive, but when they are
dead, they are pink? My eldest daughter asked me that question, and I
could not answer her.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17883 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: yellow water question
The driftwood you mentioned will release tannins into the water. This
will give the water a coloration. Most fish will not have a problem with
this, and the effect will lessen over time. Regular water changes will
help control it. However, this will cause a problem when you do tests,
since most tests are color based for results. The yellowish of the water
will throw the color of the test off, leading to misinterpatation of the
results unless you take steps to compensate. There are kits out there
that allow you to have a sample of the water in front of the coloration
to compensate for the color of the water, and help you get an accurate
reading. I haven't had to buy one in quite some time, but the Aqua-Tru
kits had this feature, and I'm sure that there may be others out there
with the same aid.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of angel
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 2:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] yellow water question

Hi I have a 55 gal tank tat my water has turned yellow.I have 6 tanks
and I
have never had this happen before. I did a partial but still yellow
water.



Any ideas?



Thanks,

Angel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17884 From: meooooooow1965 Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Question about aquarium size
Hi all! First, I just have to share with people who will appreciate
it, what I found at a garage sale today. The lady told me it was a 100
gallon aquarium with lighted hood (I don't believe it's that
big)...but I got it for $50!!!!!!!!!

My first question is, how big IS it? The measurements are height 21",
length 48", and width 12 1/2". Visually comparing it to my 29 gallon,
I'm guessing 55. Anybody know?

Also, since it didn't come with a stand, I'm wondering if anyone has a
basic plan for building one that will hold the weight of this tank,
but I can custom finish it to make it LOOK nice too. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all the info you guys post...I've learned so much since I
joined this group!
Be Blessed!
Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17885 From: wendie Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Question about aquarium size
55 gallon 48" x 13" x 21" 625 lbs
Appears to be close to the above.
Wendie





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of meooooooow1965
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 9:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about aquarium size


Hi all! First, I just have to share with people who will appreciate
it, what I found at a garage sale today. The lady told me it was a 100
gallon aquarium with lighted hood (I don't believe it's that
big)...but I got it for $50!!!!!!!!!

My first question is, how big IS it? The measurements are height 21",
length 48", and width 12 1/2". Visually comparing it to my 29 gallon,
I'm guessing 55. Anybody know?

Also, since it didn't come with a stand, I'm wondering if anyone has a
basic plan for building one that will hold the weight of this tank,
but I can custom finish it to make it LOOK nice too. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all the info you guys post...I've learned so much since I
joined this group!
Be Blessed!
Jenn






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17886 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Question about aquarium size
55 gallon, just look at the construction of an aquarium stand at the pet store, and copy it.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: meooooooow1965
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 9:58 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about aquarium size


Hi all! First, I just have to share with people who will appreciate
it, what I found at a garage sale today. The lady told me it was a 100
gallon aquarium with lighted hood (I don't believe it's that
big)...but I got it for $50!!!!!!!!!

My first question is, how big IS it? The measurements are height 21",
length 48", and width 12 1/2". Visually comparing it to my 29 gallon,
I'm guessing 55. Anybody know?

Also, since it didn't come with a stand, I'm wondering if anyone has a
basic plan for building one that will hold the weight of this tank,
but I can custom finish it to make it LOOK nice too. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all the info you guys post...I've learned so much since I
joined this group!
Be Blessed!
Jenn





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17887 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/4/2006
Subject: Re: Question about aquarium size
48*12.5*21/231= 54.545454545454545454545454545455 gallons

You can probably find instructions for building a stand at
www.thekrib.com


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of meooooooow1965
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 10:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about aquarium size

Hi all! First, I just have to share with people who will appreciate
it, what I found at a garage sale today. The lady told me it was a 100
gallon aquarium with lighted hood (I don't believe it's that
big)...but I got it for $50!!!!!!!!!

My first question is, how big IS it? The measurements are height 21",
length 48", and width 12 1/2". Visually comparing it to my 29 gallon,
I'm guessing 55. Anybody know?

Also, since it didn't come with a stand, I'm wondering if anyone has a
basic plan for building one that will hold the weight of this tank,
but I can custom finish it to make it LOOK nice too. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all the info you guys post...I've learned so much since I
joined this group!
Be Blessed!
Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17888 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
The gold gourami is a color variation of _Trichogaster trichopterus_ ,
the blue gourami. It is an aggressive fish that should grow to 6" SL.

The blue paradise gourami, well, I don't know if this is a color
variation or simply a marketing name. The real common name is paradise
fish, no gourami appendage with a scientific name of _Macropodus
opercularis_. It is an anabantid as is the gold gourami. It is also an
aggressive fish. It will grow to about 2.75" SL.

While there are variations in the personalities of individual fish, this
is an indicator that you may run into some problems keeping these fish
together. I've seen a paradise fish take apart a much larger goldfish.
The paradise fish Is one tough little fish, able to withstand
temperatures from 60^oF to 90^oF.

Without a larger tank, and plenty of hiding places for each, I think you
may be headed to aggression problems with these two fish. It would be
difficult to say who would become the winner at this stage, but the
loser will most definitely suffer, perhaps unto death.

Both fish are not fussy eaters, and should eat anything proffered.

It is very important that one understands the fish and its needs prior
to purchasing them. There are any number of references to both fish on
the web, as well as being well covered in print literature available to
one and all.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sandra
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 8:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gold goumaries

I have a gold gourmai in my 10 gallon fish tank, along with a blue
paradise gourmi. Can anyone tell me anything about these lovly fish?
Sandra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17889 From: southernbelle79_63877 Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Aquatic Question
Exactly what type of fish you can and cannot have together. I have
regular gold fish and fan tails why do they fight?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17890 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquatic Question
Hello southernbelle,
Have kept my share of goldies over the years and in my experience haven't had the best luck keeping standard or shubikins with fantails. The standard fins are much quicker at meal time not counting they picked on my fantails. Have even had the agressive regular/shubikin take dominance over the group of just them which lead to some of the others getting picked on.
But fish are each their own person no matter what species they maybe, sometimes it works and others it doesn't. Personally have a few strange combinations that live well together where in the past have heard there could be "technical difficulties" within personalities, feeding behaviors and such so I keep an eye on them and always have the back plan incase chaos takes over.
Shannon

southernbelle79_63877 <southernbelle79_63877@...> wrote:
Exactly what type of fish you can and cannot have together. I have
regular gold fish and fan tails why do they fight?






---------------------------------
Groups are talking. We´re listening. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo! Groups.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17891 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: power failure
I have just got my power back after 4 days following a bad
thunderstorm. Luckily my fish seem to be fine. Other than a water
change is there anything else I should be doing?
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17892 From: Karen Millett Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Re: power failure
Maybe some waste control to help clear up and waste and stuff that is in the rocks and/or plants, depending on your setup and maybe a little stress reliever. Our power was off for awhile once and every little bump and noise they jumped at cause they didn't have the noise of the filter. Just a suggestion. Karen.
>
> From: "mytiel123" <kerrypeskett@...>
> Date: 2006/08/04 Fri PM 08:53:35 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] power failure
>
> I have just got my power back after 4 days following a bad
> thunderstorm. Luckily my fish seem to be fine. Other than a water
> change is there anything else I should be doing?
> Kerry
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17893 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Re: Babies?
if they get fertilized...you sho0uld have some fry on the way!

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of sunshynehs
Sent: Thursday, 03 August 2006 20:24
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Babies?



Okay... I just fed my Angelfish. I noticed that I have some new little
orange eggs on one of the broad plant leaves. They were not there this
morning.

I have no clue what I am supposed to do at this point. Any pointers
please?

Thanks,
Heather in Bensalem, PA






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17894 From: faubeth Date: 8/5/2006
Subject: Thank you!
Hello everyone! This is my first time to post. I just wanted to say
thank you for all of the great information you have provided. I read
this forum a lot to make sure my tank stays healthy and happy.

I just have to say that some of the best (and most entertaining)
information I got was to feed my Pleco a cucumber slice. I love
watching him eat it! He loves to go to town on it. My red oscar loves
to go down and snatch little bites of it too. Very entertaining.

Thanks again for the great info! I look forward to learning even more
from you all!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17895 From: harry perry Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Babies?/ Angels on the way.
Eric is correct, They may or may not get fertilized. If not, they will turn dark and the female will eat them. If they are fertilized you will have fry. Either way all you do is prepare for the fry. Feed, protection etc.

Harry

"Rev. Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote: if they get fertilized...you sho0uld have some fry on the way!

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of sunshynehs
Sent: Thursday, 03 August 2006 20:24
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Babies?

Okay... I just fed my Angelfish. I noticed that I have some new little
orange eggs on one of the broad plant leaves. They were not there this
morning.

I have no clue what I am supposed to do at this point. Any pointers
please?

Thanks,
Heather in Bensalem, PA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17896 From: leedodd2006 Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Garden Ponds
Hi Guys:

I am looking to buy a wooden raised pond for my garden does anyone
know anywere in the uk i can buy one ??

Regards

lee
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17897 From: Mark Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Babies?
Heather,
You might be interested in the clubs in the area. The August meeting
of the East Coast Cichlid Organization will be held at my house in
Bensaelm on Saturday, August 26th at 2:00 pm. You can email me
offlist for directions (anubiasdesign@...), or join the club's
Yahoo Group, eastcoastcichlidorganization. There is also a general
club, the Bucks County Aquarium Society, which meets the first
Thursday of the month at the Churchville Nature Center. There are
also specialty clubs in the area for Bettas, killies, planted
aquariums, water gardens and I'm probably forgetting some.
Mark

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "sunshynehs" <SUNSHYNEHS@...>
wrote:
>
> Okay... I just fed my Angelfish. I noticed that I have some new
little
> orange eggs on one of the broad plant leaves. They were not there
this
> morning.
>
> I have no clue what I am supposed to do at this point. Any pointers
> please?
>
> Thanks,
> Heather in Bensalem, PA
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17898 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: size of aquarium
Hi all not qite sure how your getting aquarium sizes here, mines
48Lx12wx16..anyone know? here's a good site for a stand
http://www.oscarfish.com/cms_view_article.php?aid=47&pc_tzo=-
28800&pc_d=20051110&pc_t=52485
..thnks rick L.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17899 From: wendie Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: size of aquarium
Here's what I use....
http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/tipsandtables/l/bltanksize.htm

Wendie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17900 From: Sandra willber Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries(ThankS)
Thanks to you also for the information. I have seen some orange Gouraries at Wal-Mart last week that they were having as a speacil during the month. But I want towait until I get a bigger tank before I get into putting too many gourmomies into one tank.
I want to learn more about what you can mix together, so when I get my bigger tank, I will know which fish will live in peace together. I love gourmies and bettas.
Sandra

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
The paradise gourami can be extremely aggressive. The gold dwarf
gourami's are usually peaceable when they are the only gourami in the
tank, but can get aggressive when another gourami is introduced into
the tank.

> I have a gold gourmai in my 10 gallon fish tank, along with a blue
> paradise gourmi. Can anyone tell me anything about these lovly fish?
> Sandra
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links









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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17901 From: chris topher Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries(ThankS)
i love gourami's but stopped buying them as they can
be real *ssh*l*s...

only ones i've had that seem to do well in community
is the little honey dwarfs...

woody

--- Sandra willber <tracksacrossamerica@...>
wrote:

> Thanks to you also for the information. I have seen
> some orange Gouraries at Wal-Mart last week that
> they were having as a speacil during the month. But
> I want towait until I get a bigger tank before I get
> into putting too many gourmomies into one tank.
> I want to learn more about what you can mix
> together, so when I get my bigger tank, I will know
> which fish will live in peace together. I love
> gourmies and bettas.
> Sandra
>
> cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
> The paradise gourami can be extremely aggressive.
> The gold dwarf
> gourami's are usually peaceable when they are the
> only gourami in the
> tank, but can get aggressive when another gourami is
> introduced into
> the tank.
>
> > I have a gold gourmai in my 10 gallon fish tank,
> along with a blue
> > paradise gourmi. Can anyone tell me anything about
> these lovly fish?
> > Sandra
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million
> songs.Try it free.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17902 From: Evita Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Thank you!
Mine loves it too. Also you can try zucchini as well. I am thinking maybe yellow swash might be a hit too. I haven't tried that as of yet though. Evita

faubeth <faubeth@...> wrote: Hello everyone! This is my first time to post. I just wanted to say
thank you for all of the great information you have provided. I read
this forum a lot to make sure my tank stays healthy and happy.

I just have to say that some of the best (and most entertaining)
information I got was to feed my Pleco a cucumber slice. I love
watching him eat it! He loves to go to town on it. My red oscar loves
to go down and snatch little bites of it too. Very entertaining.

Thanks again for the great info! I look forward to learning even more
from you all!






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17903 From: Sandra willber Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Thanks for the information. So Far, the only fish the gold gourmia has tried to attack, was a pair of kissing gourimas, wich I took out of the tank, and put into a difrferent tank. So far, the gold and blue paradise are getting along great with my 2 female bettas. I still keep an eye open for any aggression though.I have had these fish together in the same tank for several months now, so the personallities of the fish must be different from the norm.
Sandra

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
The gold gourami is a color variation of _Trichogaster trichopterus_ ,
the blue gourami. It is an aggressive fish that should grow to 6" SL.

The blue paradise gourami, well, I don't know if this is a color
variation or simply a marketing name. The real common name is paradise
fish, no gourami appendage with a scientific name of _Macropodus
opercularis_. It is an anabantid as is the gold gourami. It is also an
aggressive fish. It will grow to about 2.75" SL.

While there are variations in the personalities of individual fish, this
is an indicator that you may run into some problems keeping these fish
together. I've seen a paradise fish take apart a much larger goldfish.
The paradise fish Is one tough little fish, able to withstand
temperatures from 60^oF to 90^oF.

Without a larger tank, and plenty of hiding places for each, I think you
may be headed to aggression problems with these two fish. It would be
difficult to say who would become the winner at this stage, but the
loser will most definitely suffer, perhaps unto death.

Both fish are not fussy eaters, and should eat anything proffered.

It is very important that one understands the fish and its needs prior
to purchasing them. There are any number of references to both fish on
the web, as well as being well covered in print literature available to
one and all.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sandra
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 8:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gold goumaries

I have a gold gourmai in my 10 gallon fish tank, along with a blue
paradise gourmi. Can anyone tell me anything about these lovly fish?
Sandra



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17904 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )
I like using breen beans - French style. might take awhile for the plecs
to start eating it but once they fig out its food they go nuts.

Try and find HARD yellow Squash, in a tank with temps in the high 70's the
squash should last 48-60 hours before needing changed.

Cucumber is great but tends to need changed every 48 hours or prior in a
tank with temps in the high 70*'s

Corn Cobbs: My kids love corn on the cob but hate eating it off the cobb. So
we Boil in water the corn and then Cut the corn off the Cobb. One day i fig
what the heck and shoved a spoon in the end of one of the cobbs and let it
fall to the floor of the tank. AFter about 20 minutes one of the plecs
tasted it, within 5 hours i had 40 baby Bristlenose all over it.

Potatoes: I have a couple Plecs that love them but in other tanks they will
not touch them.

I have heard of people using other things But have no 1st hand experience
with them myself.



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
_Freshwater Tropical Aquaria Society Forum_
(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)





In a message dated 8/6/2006 11:24:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, evitabug@yaho
o.com writes:




Mine loves it too. Also you can try zucchini as well. I am thinking maybe
yellow swash might be a hit too. I haven't tried that as of yet though. Evita









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17905 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Garden Ponds
I'm not from the UK, but could you be a bit more descriptive of what you
are looking for? Are you thinking of a half-barrel type of container, or
one that is larger, say a rectangle of 6 feet by 12 feet, or what ever
dimensions you may be thinking.

Here in the US, the half barrel type can be found at most garden supply
centers. For the latter, most people build their own frame out of
treated timbers and use a commercially available liner, though I have
seen, in the past, kits for doing the same for more money than it would
take to buy the timbers and liner along with the ancillary equipment
provided.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of leedodd2006
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Garden Ponds

Hi Guys:

I am looking to buy a wooden raised pond for my garden does anyone
know anywere in the uk i can buy one ??

Regards

lee
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17906 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: size of aquarium
Just multiply the height, width and length in inches, and divide the result by 231 to get gallons. If you wish to be more accurate, use inside measurements, not outside.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of chicagobears2010
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 10:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] re: size of aquarium

Hi all not qite sure how your getting aquarium sizes here, mines
48Lx12wx16..anyone know? here's a good site for a stand
http://www.oscarfish.com/cms_view_article.php?aid=47&pc_tzo=-
28800&pc_d=20051110&pc_t=52485
..thnks rick L.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17907 From: wendie Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Thank you!
Out of everything, mine love the green squash the best. Cukes go over well
as does zucchini while the ABN love
the yams.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Evita
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 10:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Thank you!


Mine loves it too. Also you can try zucchini as well. I am thinking maybe
yellow swash might be a hit too. I haven't tried that as of yet though.
Evita

faubeth <faubeth@...> wrote: Hello everyone! This is my first time
to post. I just wanted to say
thank you for all of the great information you have provided. I read
this forum a lot to make sure my tank stays healthy and happy.

I just have to say that some of the best (and most entertaining)
information I got was to feed my Pleco a cucumber slice. I love
watching him eat it! He loves to go to town on it. My red oscar loves
to go down and snatch little bites of it too. Very entertaining.

Thanks again for the great info! I look forward to learning even more
from you all!


---------------------------------
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17908 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries(ThankS)
You'll need to do some reading. We don't know what your taste in fish
are, and suggestions we make may be well off base for you. IMHO gouramis
do not make good tank mates, particularly any of the _Trichogaster_ spp.
They tend to be aggressive among themselves, and also to other fish they
deem to be intruders. The orange gouramis you saw are just a color
variation of the same species the golds belong to, and you can have the
same problems with aggression as mentioned before.

Get yourself a copy of the Baensch _Aquarium Atlas, Volume 1_ and read
that. When you have made a tentative list of possible co-inhabitants of
your tank, you can then come back here to find out what the real life
experiences with the various fish combination may have been.

One thing I have found is that fish seldom read books, and can be
surprising. As long as we are talking about gouramis, I'll mention the
dwarf gouramis. Nearly every text you read will note that these are
timid fish. Kept in the typical home aquarium with lots of wide open
spaces and few hiding spots, they will be. But provide them a tank more
to their liking, heavily planted, hiding places among the plants and
created with other items used in aquascaping the tank, and their true
nature will come out. I can almost guarantee that they will be the
bosses of the tank, even with fish much larger than themselves. They
will show the aggression that many gouramis are known for, though I have
never seen any real damage done.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sandra willber
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 11:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Gold goumaries(ThankS)

Thanks to you also for the information. I have seen some orange
Gouraries at Wal-Mart last week that they were having as a speacil
during the month. But I want towait until I get a bigger tank before I
get into putting too many gourmomies into one tank.
I want to learn more about what you can mix together, so when I
get my bigger tank, I will know which fish will live in peace together.
I love gourmies and bettas.
Sandra

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
The paradise gourami can be extremely aggressive. The gold dwarf
gourami's are usually peaceable when they are the only gourami in the
tank, but can get aggressive when another gourami is introduced into
the tank.

> I have a gold gourmai in my 10 gallon fish tank, along with a blue
> paradise gourmi. Can anyone tell me anything about these lovly fish?
> Sandra
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17909 From: Evita Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )
Rob, I love the corn cob idea. Does it float or can you sink it too? Evita





---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17910 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )
Corn Cobbs will float until they get saturated. What I did was put the end
of a spoon into the heart of the cobb ( soft part ) and it sank pretty easy.
You might try stripping the corn and then reboiling the cobb for a few minutes
this might makle the cobb sink by themselves without having to weigh it down.


Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
_Freshwater Tropical Aquaria Society Forum_
(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)




In a message dated 8/6/2006 12:30:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
evitabug@... writes:




Rob, I love the corn cob idea. Does it float or can you sink it too? Evita









(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17911 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )
I have three tanks running, all holding existing and quarantine fish that
will go in my new 125G next month, and I put a cucumber slice in each tank
last night.

10G containing 3 Synodontis Petricola catfish (tiny, ¾”) and 1 small
Pseudotropheus Demasoni (holding?)

20G containing 5 Metriaclima Estherae Red Zebras (tiny, 1”)

38G containing 16 two-inch fish: 3 Synodontis Petricola catfish, 3
Labidochromis Careuleus Yellow Labs, 10 Pseudotropheus Demasoni



This morning, the cucumber in the 10G and the 38G was untouched. The Red
Zebras ate half the slice! If their stomachs are the size of their eyes, I
don’t know where they put it all!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of FortWayneFish@...
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 11:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )





I like using breen beans - French style. might take awhile for the plecs
to start eating it but once they fig out its food they go nuts.

Try and find HARD yellow Squash, in a tank with temps in the high 70's the
squash should last 48-60 hours before needing changed.

Cucumber is great but tends to need changed every 48 hours or prior in a
tank with temps in the high 70*'s

Corn Cobbs: My kids love corn on the cob but hate eating it off the cobb. So

we Boil in water the corn and then Cut the corn off the Cobb. One day i fig
what the heck and shoved a spoon in the end of one of the cobbs and let it
fall to the floor of the tank. AFter about 20 minutes one of the plecs
tasted it, within 5 hours i had 40 baby Bristlenose all over it.

Potatoes: I have a couple Plecs that love them but in other tanks they will
not touch them.

I have heard of people using other things But have no 1st hand experience
with them myself.



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
_Freshwater Tropical Aquaria Society Forum_
(http://www.ftas <http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php>
net/yabbsm/index.php)

In a message dated 8/6/2006 11:24:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, evitabug@yaho
o.com writes:

Mine loves it too. Also you can try zucchini as well. I am thinking maybe
yellow swash might be a hit too. I haven't tried that as of yet though.
Evita

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17912 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: power failure
Maybe some waste control to help clear up and waste and stuff that is
in the
rocks and/or plants, depending on your setup and maybe a little stress
reliever.
Our power was off for awhile once and every little bump and noise they
jumped at
cause they didn't have the noise of the filter. Just a suggestion.
Karen.

thank you Karen
I'll tell you they seemed very surprised when I was finally able to
turn the lights on again.
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17913 From: Cory Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: power failure
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "mytiel123" <kerrypeskett@...>
wrote:
>
> I have just got my power back after 4 days following a bad
> thunderstorm. Luckily my fish seem to be fine. Other than a water
> change is there anything else I should be doing?
> Kerry
>
If this is a frequent occurrence, you might want to consider a battery
operated pump. We just got one in Ohio to transport a very large fish
back to Virginia (8 hour drive)..... but I now have it handy if my
power goes off.........Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17914 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: 3 Questions w/ pics
1. From the looks of the danios belly in the pictures (album "Blood
Parrots") what seems to be wrong? If constipation, he won't eat peas.
A salt bath? Haven't tried it yet...what amount of salt per gallon?

2. I mentioned my 3 angelfish had red fins and they were about dime
sized bodies then. They are now about a nickel size but still have
reddening in the fins. The red isn't always present which is what has
me worried. There are pics of this as well in the same album.

3. I acquired some new rainbow fish and was hoping someone could tell
me what kind they are. I know what they are not, but can't seem to find
this type exactly.

Many, many thanks. =)

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17915 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: 3 Questions w/ pics
Leslie I will not be surprise you will find internal parasites like worm
(nematodes) , inside the danio. It's not looking like constipation. You
need very special medication if it's really that than you have to buy from a
vet ($$$$) . Usually when you have few fish with the same symptom, you
sacrifice one to open it and look what is it I don't think the salt will
help here.

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 6 août, 2006 20:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] 3 Questions w/ pics

1. From the looks of the danios belly in the pictures (album "Blood
Parrots") what seems to be wrong? If constipation, he won't eat peas.
A salt bath? Haven't tried it yet...what amount of salt per gallon?

2. I mentioned my 3 angelfish had red fins and they were about dime
sized bodies then. They are now about a nickel size but still have
reddening in the fins. The red isn't always present which is what has
me worried. There are pics of this as well in the same album.

3. I acquired some new rainbow fish and was hoping someone could tell
me what kind they are. I know what they are not, but can't seem to find
this type exactly.

Many, many thanks. =)

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17916 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/6/2006
Subject: Re: was: Thank you! ( other foods for Plecs )
rob you rock I have heard of a lot of this but not the squash so I am going
to try that.. Shannon






I like using breen beans - French style. might take awhile for the plecs
to start eating it but once they fig out its food they go nuts.

Try and find HARD yellow Squash, in a tank with temps in the high 70's the
squash should last 48-60 hours before needing changed.

Cucumber is great but tends to need changed every 48 hours or prior in a
tank with temps in the high 70*'s

Corn Cobbs: My kids love corn on the cob but hate eating it off the cobb. So
we Boil in water the corn and then Cut the corn off the Cobb. One day i fig
what the heck and shoved a spoon in the end of one of the cobbs and let it
fall to the floor of the tank. AFter about 20 minutes one of the plecs
tasted it, within 5 hours i had 40 baby Bristlenose all over it.

Potatoes: I have a couple Plecs that love them but in other tanks they will
not touch them.

I have heard of people using other things But have no 1st hand experience
with them myself.



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17917 From: Mark Denaro Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: size of aquarium
48x12x16 is a 40 gallon long.
Mark


Anubias Design
"where rare species are common"

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17918 From: sunshynehs Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Babies?/ Angels on the way.
Hey guys!

I didn't make it in time. They ate the bright orange eggs before I
learned what to do to keep them safe. By the time I woke up they were
all gone.

Okay... so is the info that I got correct? I want to provide them a
floating shelter so that the others can't eat them.

What do I feed the little ones? And what can I do with them once they
hatch? I can't provide a home for all of them.

Thanks for all of your help.

Heather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17919 From: chris topher Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Babies?/ Angels on the way.
they probably werent fertilized, in my experience
angels are ususally very good at taking care of
fertilized eggs and the fry, at least for a little
while...

--- sunshynehs <SUNSHYNEHS@...> wrote:

> Hey guys!
>
> I didn't make it in time. They ate the bright
> orange eggs before I
> learned what to do to keep them safe. By the time I
> woke up they were
> all gone.
>
> Okay... so is the info that I got correct? I want
> to provide them a
> floating shelter so that the others can't eat them.
>
>
> What do I feed the little ones? And what can I do
> with them once they
> hatch? I can't provide a home for all of them.
>
> Thanks for all of your help.
>
> Heather
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17920 From: Leslie Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Will this light work?
I'm in the market for a new light for both of my tanks (75 and a 46),
I want live plants in each.
Will this light work for the standard hood that came w/ the tanks? I
believe each of the hoods are by Perfecto.
The end caps look the same w/ the two prongs but I want to be sure.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3813&N=2004+113174

Many thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17921 From: Leslie Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Will this light work?
I'm trying to research and answer my own question but I end up w/ more
questions...is anybody out there?! lol

Now I need to know if what I have is a "tar" ballast and do I need a
special VHO ballast for this light? I'm confused, this is a whole new
realm for me. HELP ME!!!!!! =)

~Leslie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I'm in the market for a new light for both of my tanks (75 and a 46),
> I want live plants in each.
> Will this light work for the standard hood that came w/ the tanks? I
> believe each of the hoods are by Perfecto.
> The end caps look the same w/ the two prongs but I want to be sure.
>
>
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3813&N=2004+113174
>
> Many thanks!
> Leslie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17922 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Will this light work?
Leslie, you will need a VERY HIGH OUTPUT ballast for this bulb. Your ballast will only power regular bulbs like 24"-20 wt , 36"-30 wt, or 48"-40wt. Look for 10K in regular wattage. If your looking for new light fixture, go with power compacts. E-bay is a good place to get them at a good price. Hope this helps.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 4:05 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Will this light work?


I'm trying to research and answer my own question but I end up w/ more
questions...is anybody out there?! lol

Now I need to know if what I have is a "tar" ballast and do I need a
special VHO ballast for this light? I'm confused, this is a whole new
realm for me. HELP ME!!!!!! =)

~Leslie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I'm in the market for a new light for both of my tanks (75 and a 46),
> I want live plants in each.
> Will this light work for the standard hood that came w/ the tanks? I
> believe each of the hoods are by Perfecto.
> The end caps look the same w/ the two prongs but I want to be sure.
>
>
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3813&N=2004+113174
>
> Many thanks!
> Leslie
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17923 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Will this light work?
Leslie do not buy tube by mail order, just go to an electrical store, they
gone order for you. 12000 K for fresh water look to high you need only
6000 K mix 2 tubes also, in a 18" deep aquarium you can buy cheap grolux
and mix it with day light , you wallet will be happy and you plant too.


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie
Envoyé : 7 août, 2006 17:06
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Will this light work?

I'm trying to research and answer my own question but I end up w/ more
questions...is anybody out there?! lol

Now I need to know if what I have is a "tar" ballast and do I need a
special VHO ballast for this light? I'm confused, this is a whole new
realm for me. HELP ME!!!!!! =)

~Leslie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I'm in the market for a new light for both of my tanks (75 and a 46),
> I want live plants in each.
> Will this light work for the standard hood that came w/ the tanks? I
> believe each of the hoods are by Perfecto.
> The end caps look the same w/ the two prongs but I want to be sure.
>
>
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3813&N=2004+11
3174
>
> Many thanks!
> Leslie
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17924 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Will this light work?
That helps. That's what I thought but I couldn't find anything to tell
me that for sure.
I have a double strip fixture on the 75 so I can add two lights w/ 40w
each, which should be sufficient for mild plant growth I think.
The 46 has just a single strip so I am replacing it w/ a jebo compact.
It's going to run me $67 including shipping. lol The price of this
hobby that I never knew I wanted to get into is high!

Thanks so much. I appreciate it!

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 4:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Will this light work?



Leslie, you will need a VERY HIGH OUTPUT ballast for this bulb. Your
ballast will only power regular bulbs like 24"-20 wt , 36"-30 wt, or
48"-40wt. Look for 10K in regular wattage. If your looking for new light
fixture, go with power compacts. E-bay is a good place to get them at a
good price. Hope this helps.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 4:05 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Will this light work?

I'm trying to research and answer my own question but I end up w/ more
questions...is anybody out there?! lol

Now I need to know if what I have is a "tar" ballast and do I need a
special VHO ballast for this light? I'm confused, this is a whole new
realm for me. HELP ME!!!!!! =)

~Leslie

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I'm in the market for a new light for both of my tanks (75 and a 46),
> I want live plants in each.
> Will this light work for the standard hood that came w/ the tanks? I
> believe each of the hoods are by Perfecto.
> The end caps look the same w/ the two prongs but I want to be sure.
>
>
http://www.drsfoste
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3813&N=20
04+113174> rsmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3813&N=2004+113174
>
> Many thanks!
> Leslie
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17925 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: re power failure
If this is a frequent occurrence, you might want to consider a battery
operated pump. We just got one in Ohio to transport a very large fish
back to Virginia (8 hour drive)..... but I now have it handy if my
power goes off.........Cory

Thankfully it doesn't happen very often. over 400,000 people lost
power. are they very expensive?
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17926 From: Cory Walter Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: re power failure
We paid $15 for ours...uses 2 "D" batteries and will run for 12 hours on those two....glad you got your's back......that's a pretty bad outage.........

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17927 From: harry perry Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Peroxide????
Why does hydrogen peroxide kill algae?

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17928 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/7/2006
Subject: Re: Peroxide????
I cannot be for sure but peroxide basically is like liquid fire. The way
fire burns organic stuff, peroxide does the same thing chemically. IT acts
on plant matter and organic rotting material and oxidizes them. The fish
slime coat protects the fish from the harsh action of peroxide so it is
safe. Higher plants that have a stronger structure can also withstand mild
peroxide for shorter duration but lower plants like algae etc. that work on
a cellular basis is almost instantly burned away by peroxide.



Nim





_____

From: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com [mailto:UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of harry perry
Sent: 08 August 2006 03:28
To: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com; anubiasdesign@yahoogroups.com;
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [UniQuaria] Peroxide????



Why does hydrogen peroxide kill algae?

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario



_____

Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/taglines/postman7/*http:/us.rd.yahoo.com/evt
=39666/*http:/messenger.yahoo.com> rates starting at 1¢/min.


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=39666/*http:/messenger.yahoo.com>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17929 From: Aaron Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Substrate ?'s
Hi All,

I have the Hydrocable substrate heating system for the 55 gallon
planted tank. I read on hear somebody said to use "silver sand" as
the bottom layer for it to work properly. I haven't installed it yet
as it is new and my first try with this.

Does anybody else have experience with this?

The substrate in the tank currently is the Eco-Complete planted tank
gravel.

Also, I have 2 small aquariums I want to use Under Gravel Filters
with. 1 is a 15 gallon "Lobster" tank with a large colorful crawdad
and feeder shrimp and some feeder guppies. The the other is
an 'Eclipse System 12' used as a fry tank.

What is a good substrate to use that will not compact so easily?

Does the crawdad need to burrow? If so is there a certain kind of
substrate that will work best?

Right now there is just bare bottom and a large piece of driftwood
that barely fits in there and looks like a hollow log that
the "lobster" easily fits in and spends most of its time in there.
It was a planted tank but I had to take everything out and start
over because this crawdad is so big like 10 inches that it just
uprooted all the plants, moved around all the driftwod and pushed up
all the gravel against the front like the large cichlids do.

I've read somewhere here about putting filter pad or similar
material on top of the UGF plates to keep them from getting the
slits clogged or blocked.

thanks,
Aaron
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17930 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: Substrate ?'s
no idea what the silver sand they are recommending is, but my favorite
substrate is a combination of vermiculite, laterite, peat moss and
course sand on the bottom. Put just enough water in to make it all
doughy and then put your gravel/sand on top Works great for planted
tanks

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17931 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: Substrate ?'s
Silver sand is just sand make of silica , just use fine sand who is not
made of lime or other thing who can change the ph

Gerard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de cynthia brennemann
Envoyé : 8 août, 2006 08:42
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Substrate ?'s

no idea what the silver sand they are recommending is, but my favorite
substrate is a combination of vermiculite, laterite, peat moss and
course sand on the bottom. Put just enough water in to make it all
doughy and then put your gravel/sand on top Works great for planted
tanks

>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17932 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: : [AquaticLife] re power failure
We paid $15 for ours...uses 2 "D" batteries and will run for 12 hours
on those
two....glad you got your's back......that's a pretty bad
outage.........


Yes it was a very bad outage. That is an excellent price. Can I get
it at a pet store or do I need to order it from somewhere?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17933 From: Sandra willber Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Gold goumaries
So glad that I joined this group. It is so informative. I have read books on fish that I have taken out of the library. The book claims that gourmies get along with each other, but I didn't think so when I seen the gold gourmie going after the kissing gourmies. I do have live plants in my tank, along with hiding places for my clown louch.
Sandra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17934 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: : [AquaticLife] re power failure
Hagen have a model so you can order it from any LFS look even at Big Al
they have

http://tinyurl.com/hjyss

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de mytiel123
Envoyé : 8 août, 2006 17:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : : [AquaticLife] re power failure




We paid $15 for ours...uses 2 "D" batteries and will run for 12 hours
on those
two....glad you got your's back......that's a pretty bad
outage.........


Yes it was a very bad outage. That is an excellent price. Can I get
it at a pet store or do I need to order it from somewhere?





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17935 From: Cory Walter Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: : [AquaticLife] re power failure
www.thatpetplace.com has the Elite battery operated pump for $6.49.......and they have it in stock.....the one I got is an Elite......guess I paid twice as much, but I had to have mine within a day so it worked........the pump also has an off/on switch so you can keep it hooked up to an air stone and just turn it on..........hope this helps

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17936 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: : [AquaticLife] re power failure
Hagen have a model so you can order it from any LFS look even at Big Al
they have


Thanks I will look for it next time I go there.
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17937 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: : [AquaticLife] re power failure
www.thatpetplace.com has the Elite battery operated pump for
$6.49.......and
they have it in stock.....the one I got is an Elite......guess I paid
twice as
much, but I had to have mine within a day so it worked........the pump
also has
an off/on switch so you can keep it hooked up to an air stone and just
turn it
on..........hope this helps


Yes it does help, very much.........thanks so much
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17938 From: harry perry Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: Peroxide????/Nim
Thank you, good to hear from you again.

Harry

Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@...> wrote: I cannot be for sure but peroxide basically is like liquid fire. The way
fire burns organic stuff, peroxide does the same thing chemically. IT acts
on plant matter and organic rotting material and oxidizes them. The fish
slime coat protects the fish from the harsh action of peroxide so it is
safe. Higher plants that have a stronger structure can also withstand mild
peroxide for shorter duration but lower plants like algae etc. that work on
a cellular basis is almost instantly burned away by peroxide.

Nim

_____

From: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com [mailto:UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of harry perry
Sent: 08 August 2006 03:28
To: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com; anubiasdesign@yahoogroups.com;
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [UniQuaria] Peroxide????

Why does hydrogen peroxide kill algae?

Harry

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

_____

Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/taglines/postman7/*http:/us.rd.yahoo.com/evt
=39666/*http:/messenger.yahoo.com> rates starting at 1¢/min.

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=39666/*http:/messenger.yahoo.com>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17939 From: littlenloud Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: new here -- need help
Hi,

My Oscar has a bad ulcer and he's not responding well to treatment
(I've been using melafix), and I've tried using tetracycline, but he
isn't interested in eating.

I am doing water changes, problem is, the PH was still high, showing
the water in tank was hard, so tested my tap water, and that's hard.
We haven't had a problem with hard water before, so I'm not sure how to
deal with it, besides running a water softener.

I bought some stuff to treat the PH, but he's still in distress (lying
at bottom of tank, won't eat, "gasping"), its horrible. Is there stuff
to treat hard water for the actual tank?

Anyone have any suggestions that will work fast and be effective, w/o
stressing him more?

Thanks,

littlenloud
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17940 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: new here -- need help
Changing the pH too quickly will stress the fish more so than an
adjusted high pH. How high was it before you treated it?

Is it possible there isn't enough oxygen in the water? Did you ever see
him at the top of the water surface before this?

It might also be that the wound or ulcer has turned bacterial. Does he
have any red spoltches or are his gills unusually red or inflamed?
For future referrence, they make tetracycline in a tablet that you add
to the water and doesn't have to be eaten.

I hate to say, but nine times out of ten when a fish gets to this point
it's the end for them. If it's lack of oxygen, it's a quick fix, add
more bubbles. But if it's bacterial or parasitic, it might be too late.

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of littlenloud
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 10:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] new here -- need help



Hi,

My Oscar has a bad ulcer and he's not responding well to treatment
(I've been using melafix), and I've tried using tetracycline, but he
isn't interested in eating.

I am doing water changes, problem is, the PH was still high, showing
the water in tank was hard, so tested my tap water, and that's hard.
We haven't had a problem with hard water before, so I'm not sure how to
deal with it, besides running a water softener.

I bought some stuff to treat the PH, but he's still in distress (lying
at bottom of tank, won't eat, "gasping"), its horrible. Is there stuff
to treat hard water for the actual tank?

Anyone have any suggestions that will work fast and be effective, w/o
stressing him more?

Thanks,

littlenloud







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17941 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Sandra,

There are different types of aggression. Some fish only show conspecific
aggression, which means that any aggression is directed against others
of its own species. _Betta splendens_ is a good example of this. Because
of this conspecific aggression, males are kept by themselves, or as the
only betta in a community tank. They get along perfectly fine with other
species. However, drop another male in there, and it becomes a battle to
the death between the two bettas.

Then, there are fish that are just plain aggressive. Doesn't matter what
species the other fish is--in my space, get out or I'll kill you.

Gouramis are funky. Some of them are fine with others of their own
species, and just aggressive to all others. Some are just plain
aggressive. And, finally, some are only aggressive to others of their
own species.

Then, again, you can get fish that have not yet read the book, and their
behavior is not what you would expect.

A lot of the gouramis you will see out there are variations of a
species. The gold gourami, is an orange gourami, is a three-spot
gourami, and so on. The behavior you read or hear about for any one of
these varieties will apply to all others of the species, no matter what
the color variation is.

You need to do a lot of reading and a lot of talking to find out about a
species. There is a lot of erroneous information available and it gets
recycled by different people and authors. Then you get variations of
behavior with different individual fish. It can be quite confusing. The
best teacher, as with anything, is experience.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sandra willber
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 12:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gold goumaries

So glad that I joined this group. It is so informative. I have read
books on fish that I have taken out of the library. The book claims that
gourmies get along with each other, but I didn't think so when I seen
the gold gourmie going after the kissing gourmies. I do have live plants
in my tank, along with hiding places for my clown louch.
Sandra
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17942 From: littlenloud Date: 8/8/2006
Subject: Re: new here -- need help
leslie,

thanks. i used the test strips, which indicated "very high" (brown),
so that's not good. it didn't appear to be all that changed when i
tested it again in the morning, so i did a 25% water change today
(last one was 3 days ago, before water was tested and treated).

One thing that didn't help (with it being a bacterial ulcer) was that
while medicating, you're supposed to take the activated carbon filter
out, which keeps the water alot less clean. right now, i have just a
filter sleeve in the filter (not the carbon), and that's helping
somewhat, but tank is not as clear as with the carbon. :(

Just talked to husband and fish is at least not lying on side like
before, so it sounds like he's not as stressed as before which
hopefully is good (i'm still at work).

He actually wasn't at the top trying to get air, he was at the
bottom, but gasping was the only word i could think of to describe
how he was acting. he appeared to be making more of an effort to
breathe.

However, his gills are not red. His sore has some red spots with a
little bleeding, but most of it is white.

I'm going to run to wal-mart tonight after work and see if i can
hopefully find some tetracycline tablets.

BTW, his tank mate, a pleco, does not appear to be stressed. They
are both about 4 years old, and have been at this house (with this
well) for about 2 years -- this is the first problem we've had with
the water here.

hopefully, its not too late. thanks for all your help, and the quick
response.

nora
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Changing the pH too quickly will stress the fish more so than an
> adjusted high pH. How high was it before you treated it?
>
> Is it possible there isn't enough oxygen in the water? Did you
ever see
> him at the top of the water surface before this?
>
> It might also be that the wound or ulcer has turned bacterial.
Does he
> have any red spoltches or are his gills unusually red or inflamed?
> For future referrence, they make tetracycline in a tablet that you
add
> to the water and doesn't have to be eaten.
>
> I hate to say, but nine times out of ten when a fish gets to this
point
> it's the end for them. If it's lack of oxygen, it's a quick fix,
add
> more bubbles. But if it's bacterial or parasitic, it might be too
late.
>
> ~Leslie
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of littlenloud
> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 10:01 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] new here -- need help
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> My Oscar has a bad ulcer and he's not responding well to treatment
> (I've been using melafix), and I've tried using tetracycline, but
he
> isn't interested in eating.
>
> I am doing water changes, problem is, the PH was still high,
showing
> the water in tank was hard, so tested my tap water, and that's
hard.
> We haven't had a problem with hard water before, so I'm not sure
how to
> deal with it, besides running a water softener.
>
> I bought some stuff to treat the PH, but he's still in distress
(lying
> at bottom of tank, won't eat, "gasping"), its horrible. Is there
stuff
> to treat hard water for the actual tank?
>
> Anyone have any suggestions that will work fast and be effective,
w/o
> stressing him more?
>
> Thanks,
>
> littlenloud
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17943 From: Aaron Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: Substrate ?'s
Is there a way to test gravel to see if it will react with the
aquarium water or affect pH?

I have some that has been in storage from a tank I was given, but it
smells dusty when wet - it looks like mostly quartz. I've washed it
thouroghly but it still has a weird smell while soaking.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <anonymous122899@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have the Hydrocable substrate heating system for the 55 gallon
> planted tank. I read on hear somebody said to use "silver sand" as
> the bottom layer for it to work properly. I haven't installed it
yet
> as it is new and my first try with this.
>
> Does anybody else have experience with this?
>
> The substrate in the tank currently is the Eco-Complete planted
tank
> gravel.
>
> Also, I have 2 small aquariums I want to use Under Gravel Filters
> with. 1 is a 15 gallon "Lobster" tank with a large colorful
crawdad
> and feeder shrimp and some feeder guppies. The the other is
> an 'Eclipse System 12' used as a fry tank.
>
> What is a good substrate to use that will not compact so easily?
>
> Does the crawdad need to burrow? If so is there a certain kind of
> substrate that will work best?
>
> Right now there is just bare bottom and a large piece of driftwood
> that barely fits in there and looks like a hollow log that
> the "lobster" easily fits in and spends most of its time in there.
> It was a planted tank but I had to take everything out and start
> over because this crawdad is so big like 10 inches that it just
> uprooted all the plants, moved around all the driftwod and pushed
up
> all the gravel against the front like the large cichlids do.
>
> I've read somewhere here about putting filter pad or similar
> material on top of the UGF plates to keep them from getting the
> slits clogged or blocked.
>
> thanks,
> Aaron
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17944 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: Substrate ?'s
You put few gravel in a glass and after put vinegar, if it's bubble it's
made of calcium (lime) stone It will rise the ph, if you have hydrochloric
acid ( the one use to wash concrete) it's better,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Aaron
Envoyé : 9 août, 2006 05:42
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Substrate ?'s

Is there a way to test gravel to see if it will react with the
aquarium water or affect pH?

I have some that has been in storage from a tank I was given, but it
smells dusty when wet - it looks like mostly quartz. I've washed it
thouroghly but it still has a weird smell while soaking.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <anonymous122899@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have the Hydrocable substrate heating system for the 55 gallon
> planted tank. I read on hear somebody said to use "silver sand" as
> the bottom layer for it to work properly. I haven't installed it
yet
> as it is new and my first try with this.
>
> Does anybody else have experience with this?
>
> The substrate in the tank currently is the Eco-Complete planted
tank
> gravel.
>
> Also, I have 2 small aquariums I want to use Under Gravel Filters
> with. 1 is a 15 gallon "Lobster" tank with a large colorful
crawdad
> and feeder shrimp and some feeder guppies. The the other is
> an 'Eclipse System 12' used as a fry tank.
>
> What is a good substrate to use that will not compact so easily?
>
> Does the crawdad need to burrow? If so is there a certain kind of
> substrate that will work best?
>
> Right now there is just bare bottom and a large piece of driftwood
> that barely fits in there and looks like a hollow log that
> the "lobster" easily fits in and spends most of its time in there.
> It was a planted tank but I had to take everything out and start
> over because this crawdad is so big like 10 inches that it just
> uprooted all the plants, moved around all the driftwod and pushed
up
> all the gravel against the front like the large cichlids do.
>
> I've read somewhere here about putting filter pad or similar
> material on top of the UGF plates to keep them from getting the
> slits clogged or blocked.
>
> thanks,
> Aaron
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17945 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: hmmmm
I've been hunting for a stand for a 50 gallon aquarium. Don't want a wood one. Found one at Petwarehouse.com that will foot the bill, but was wondering how this would do for an aquarium stand.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-NSF-36-X-18-X-24-ALUMINUM-FOOD-EQUIPMENT-STAND_W0QQitemZ160009243226QQihZ006QQcategoryZ55840QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I'll admit that I do kinda like the look of this better than the rought-iron one I found at petwarehouse even though it is a little more expensive after shipping. Thanks in advance for yall's opinions. (and no, I don't want to build one. lol) If it helps, getting a 50 gallon acrylic aquarium.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17946 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: hmmmm
Should work fine. Only one of our aquariums is on an aquarium stand.
Just make sure it isn't flimsy and will fit the bottom of the
tank...you don't want overlap on a tank that large
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17947 From: sunshynehs Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
I have found that the Dwarf Varities of Gouramies is much less likely
to be aggressive.

Later,
Heather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17948 From: Leslie Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: White stuff: worm? poop?
There is a white thing stuck on a rock in my 75 cichlid tank. There
are pics under the bloop parrot album. There is also a smaller one on
a small pepple just above the larger one but it was too small to get a
good pic of?
Is this a worm or a white poop? Either way it's bad I know.
I've been feeding them anitparasitic food for 2 days due to the giant
danios belly.
Pleeeease tell me what this is. (I can get a better picture up if
needed. When I added the red circle, some quality was taken away.)

~Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17949 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Angelfish Gang Attack
Whoa. I added two rainbow fish to my 46 today. It houses 5 angels, 3
babies 2 juvies. So when I put the rainbow fish in 4 of the angels (2
juvies and 2 babies) got into a perfect formation and surrounded him,
like they were going to go in and beat him up. Just as you see gangs do
in the movies. ACK! I can't describe how this looked, like an
organized pack of wolves ready to attack. They swam the same speed &
distance at the same and stopped at the exact time.
I added the rainbows right after I cleaned the tank and moved a few
things around. I thought that would help, it so did not.
So I fed them to get them away from the poor rainbow they were chasing.
He literally could not move or go anywhere as he was surrounded.
Has anyone else had this happen? Is this going to lead to them trying
to kill my new fish?




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17950 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish Gang Attack
Switch the rainbow for some Serrasalmus , they will make sushi with the
angel, seriously we call it territorial invasion,



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 9 août, 2006 16:59
À : uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Angelfish Gang Attack

Whoa. I added two rainbow fish to my 46 today. It houses 5 angels, 3
babies 2 juvies. So when I put the rainbow fish in 4 of the angels (2
juvies and 2 babies) got into a perfect formation and surrounded him,
like they were going to go in and beat him up. Just as you see gangs do
in the movies. ACK! I can't describe how this looked, like an
organized pack of wolves ready to attack. They swam the same speed &
distance at the same and stopped at the exact time.
I added the rainbows right after I cleaned the tank and moved a few
things around. I thought that would help, it so did not.
So I fed them to get them away from the poor rainbow they were chasing.
He literally could not move or go anywhere as he was surrounded.
Has anyone else had this happen? Is this going to lead to them trying
to kill my new fish?




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17951 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/9/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
If you give them a habitat they like, I think you will note that when
they come out into the open areas of the tank, they are the boss, and
they will brook no argument about it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sunshynehs
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 9:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Gold goumaries

I have found that the Dwarf Varities of Gouramies is much less likely
to be aggressive.

Later,
Heather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17952 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
Ours did not. He remained shy and easily bullied by guppy fry even
when it had plenty of hiding spaces. However, the one my sister got
was just downright mean. I think there is a general trend of behavior
among certain species of fish, but there are also individual
personalities that can make for success where otherwise it shouldn't
work. I wouldn't count on it, but it does happen.

> If you give them a habitat they like, I think you will note that when
> they come out into the open areas of the tank, they are the boss, and
> they will brook no argument about it.
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17953 From: Rebecca Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Flicking/Flashing Platies
Hello,

I have a question that I'm hoping someone could help me with :)

A week ago I got some dwarf sunset coral platies... 8 of them. They
are absolutely darling and I'm definately in love with this kind of
fish! (I'm regretting not having a species tank :) I didn't
quarantine the platies (long story) but I'm friendly with someone
who works at the petshop and she reassured me that the store hadn't
had a single dwarf platy get ill or die of unknown reasons. (this
person actually tells me when they are having trouble with fish so I
know she was telling the truth)

However, I've noticed them doing something strange. They are
flicking/flashing against the plants. They don't do this against the
driftwood or the substrate, just the plants. They eat like little
piggies, their fins are not clamped, their coloring is good. 2 of the
smallest platies like to hide [& hunt the ostracods infesting my
tank] in my ambulia plants but they happily come out to eat and look
good when they do.

So a rundown on the tank: It is a 30 gallon, cycled, *heavily*
planted tank which has been running for about 4 months. Ph is
something like 7.6 or 7.8 (test colors are really hard to
diferentiate); Ammonia 0; Nitrite 0; Nitrate around 10 ppm. Also in
the tank are 9 White Cloud Mountain Minnow adults and 1 fry, 1 Oto
(the rest died in unrelated manners), and 1 cardinal tetra (rescued).

I've looked up the different illness possibilites: Ich, Velvet,
Flukes. I don't see white spots on any of the fish and I've spent a
lot of time looking. I shined the light on the fishies and I don't
see anything resembling gold dust. I thought maybe flukes but they
look so darn good and they've been doing this since I first got them.

I've been reading online for several hours about this and it seems a
few people with platies have reported that their fish just "do this."
While others speculate that it is a change in water chemistry such as
from the petstore to my tank. BTW, I asked the petstore and they said
that the platies were not flicking on the substrate and I watched the
store platies for an hour to make sure they had not overlooked it.
But, no flicking :)

So, um... any thoughts... anyone seen this before?... suggestions?

Thanks so much,
Rebecca
South Jersey, USA
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17954 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
Hello all I will like to came back in this subject, yesterday I was in
Montreal to visit an expo with my family, I stop to 3 fish store to buy
Seachem Florish, the first place have all seachem product but out of stock
for the florish, the second place just keep Hagen product( it's plant I want
grow not algae) the third, one a small one explain me than I don't need
to put fertiliser to keep plant, and anyway it's better to have plastic one,
out of time to go to the 2 other big place where they should have ( and my
wife &$&?$?&$ after me ) I return to home. Last night I go to the Canadian
Website of Big Al to get the phone # of their store in Montreal to call
before go. And I discover than they don't charge for shipment, so let's go I
order it , I will save gas. I even see you can order antibiotic, good news
for people in Quebec, because of the tight control of the vet, here you not
suppose to sell it in the fish store, but I guest their online warehouse is
in Ontario

So my point is , It's better to support the local economy, but they have to
make their effort, train their staff, know what they sold and keep a eye on
their empty shelf. And best of all, not argue with the customer, because
when I click buy online no one do so. I make model railroading also, I
find my self to be a customer who know what he buy, and it's hard to find in
LFS the special need I have. It's impossible also for a LFS to keep
everything, so it why Internet should fill the gap.

I really enjoy the guy who told me to replace my plants by plastic one.

Gerard.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17955 From: deborahgd14 Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Flicking/Flashing Platies
Hey Rebecca: haven't we met somewhere before? Keep checking for
spots. My clown loaches were scratching like crazy and ended up
with ick. Of course, they are scaleless, so they have a different
reaction to things than others. Deborah

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rebecca" <rebeccakarol@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I have a question that I'm hoping someone could help me with :)
>
> A week ago I got some dwarf sunset coral platies... 8 of them. They
> are absolutely darling and I'm definately in love with this kind of
> fish! (I'm regretting not having a species tank :) I didn't
> quarantine the platies (long story) but I'm friendly with someone
> who works at the petshop and she reassured me that the store
hadn't
> had a single dwarf platy get ill or die of unknown reasons. (this
> person actually tells me when they are having trouble with fish so
I
> know she was telling the truth)
>
> However, I've noticed them doing something strange. They are
> flicking/flashing against the plants. They don't do this against
the
> driftwood or the substrate, just the plants. They eat like little
> piggies, their fins are not clamped, their coloring is good. 2 of
the
> smallest platies like to hide [& hunt the ostracods infesting my
> tank] in my ambulia plants but they happily come out to eat and
look
> good when they do.
>
> So a rundown on the tank: It is a 30 gallon, cycled, *heavily*
> planted tank which has been running for about 4 months. Ph is
> something like 7.6 or 7.8 (test colors are really hard to
> diferentiate); Ammonia 0; Nitrite 0; Nitrate around 10 ppm. Also
in
> the tank are 9 White Cloud Mountain Minnow adults and 1 fry, 1 Oto
> (the rest died in unrelated manners), and 1 cardinal tetra
(rescued).
>
> I've looked up the different illness possibilites: Ich, Velvet,
> Flukes. I don't see white spots on any of the fish and I've spent a
> lot of time looking. I shined the light on the fishies and I don't
> see anything resembling gold dust. I thought maybe flukes but they
> look so darn good and they've been doing this since I first got
them.
>
> I've been reading online for several hours about this and it seems
a
> few people with platies have reported that their fish just "do
this."
> While others speculate that it is a change in water chemistry such
as
> from the petstore to my tank. BTW, I asked the petstore and they
said
> that the platies were not flicking on the substrate and I watched
the
> store platies for an hour to make sure they had not overlooked it.
> But, no flicking :)
>
> So, um... any thoughts... anyone seen this before?... suggestions?
>
> Thanks so much,
> Rebecca
> South Jersey, USA
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17956 From: deborahgd14 Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish Gang Attack
wow, that is pretty neat. I think the angels are smarter than we
give them credit for. Deborah

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Whoa. I added two rainbow fish to my 46 today. It houses 5
angels, 3
> babies 2 juvies. So when I put the rainbow fish in 4 of the
angels (2
> juvies and 2 babies) got into a perfect formation and surrounded
him,
> like they were going to go in and beat him up. Just as you see
gangs do
> in the movies. ACK! I can't describe how this looked, like an
> organized pack of wolves ready to attack. They swam the same
speed &
> distance at the same and stopped at the exact time.
> I added the rainbows right after I cleaned the tank and moved a few
> things around. I thought that would help, it so did not.
> So I fed them to get them away from the poor rainbow they were
chasing.
> He literally could not move or go anywhere as he was surrounded.
> Has anyone else had this happen? Is this going to lead to them
trying
> to kill my new fish?
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17957 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish Gang Attack
Have noticed with my youngsters they seem to have "color" clicks going on, kind of funny to watch. But have seen the "pack hunting" behavior when someone(s) added to a group very synchronized LOL

Shannon

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
Whoa. I added two rainbow fish to my 46 today. It houses 5 angels, 3
babies 2 juvies. So when I put the rainbow fish in 4 of the angels (2
juvies and 2 babies) got into a perfect formation and surrounded him,
like they were going to go in and beat him up. Just as you see gangs do
in the movies. ACK! I can't describe how this looked, like an
organized pack of wolves ready to attack. They swam the same speed &
distance at the same and stopped at the exact time.
I added the rainbows right after I cleaned the tank and moved a few
things around. I thought that would help, it so did not.
So I fed them to get them away from the poor rainbow they were chasing.
He literally could not move or go anywhere as he was surrounded.
Has anyone else had this happen? Is this going to lead to them trying
to kill my new fish?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17958 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
I buy at the LFS if possible. I have tried 12 LFS within a one hour drive
of my home (not including PetSmart, PetCo, etc.) and there are 4 I return to
on a regular basis, none are in my town or even in my county. If any of
these (a) has the item and (b) at a reasonable price, I buy there.
However.they often do not have the item, I only like the quality of fish
they DO have 50% of the time, and sometimes.I just can't justify paying an
additional 70%. For example, last week I bought a filter at a LFS for
$29.99 which costs $17.99 on the internet.



Regarding getting an argument, I've had that too. I'm happier with the
advice I get on the internet. The owners of the LFS are not available to
speak with every customer on every visit, and they seem to be the only
well-informed employees.



Another hobby of mine is shell collecting. Old-timers on those lists
started a thread on why they cannot get new/young members to join shell
collecting clubs and attend meetings. There were a LOT of responses to that
thread, and some rang true with me for both shells and fish. One theme was
that very experienced members established their practices years ago, have
not kept up to date, and are not willing to listen to new ideas from new
members. The old members drive the new members away without realizing it.







_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 11:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet



Hello all I will like to came back in this subject, yesterday I was in
Montreal to visit an expo with my family, I stop to 3 fish store to buy
Seachem Florish, the first place have all seachem product but out of stock
for the florish, the second place just keep Hagen product( it's plant I want
grow not algae) the third, one a small one explain me than I don't need
to put fertiliser to keep plant, and anyway it's better to have plastic one,
out of time to go to the 2 other big place where they should have ( and my
wife &$&?$?&$ after me ) I return to home. Last night I go to the Canadian
Website of Big Al to get the phone # of their store in Montreal to call
before go. And I discover than they don't charge for shipment, so let's go I
order it , I will save gas. I even see you can order antibiotic, good news
for people in Quebec, because of the tight control of the vet, here you not
suppose to sell it in the fish store, but I guest their online warehouse is
in Ontario

So my point is , It's better to support the local economy, but they have to
make their effort, train their staff, know what they sold and keep a eye on
their empty shelf. And best of all, not argue with the customer, because
when I click buy online no one do so. I make model railroading also, I
find my self to be a customer who know what he buy, and it's hard to find in
LFS the special need I have. It's impossible also for a LFS to keep
everything, so it why Internet should fill the gap.

I really enjoy the guy who told me to replace my plants by plastic one.

Gerard.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17959 From: Leslie Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Cost of Supplies LFS vs Internet
I laughed aloud on this. My kids are wondering what in the world can
be so funny in an email.

Thanks for sharing and I completely agree on supporting the store if
they do their part.

~Leslie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all I will like to came back in this subject, yesterday I was in
> Montreal to visit an expo with my family, I stop to 3 fish store to buy
> Seachem Florish, the first place have all seachem product but out
of stock
> for the florish, the second place just keep Hagen product( it's
plant I want
> grow not algae) the third, one a small one explain me than I
don't need
> to put fertiliser to keep plant, and anyway it's better to have
plastic one,
> out of time to go to the 2 other big place where they should have (
and my
> wife &$&?$?&$ after me ) I return to home. Last night I go to the
Canadian
> Website of Big Al to get the phone # of their store in Montreal to call
> before go. And I discover than they don't charge for shipment, so
let's go I
> order it , I will save gas. I even see you can order antibiotic,
good news
> for people in Quebec, because of the tight control of the vet, here
you not
> suppose to sell it in the fish store, but I guest their online
warehouse is
> in Ontario
>
> So my point is , It's better to support the local economy, but they
have to
> make their effort, train their staff, know what they sold and keep a
eye on
> their empty shelf. And best of all, not argue with the customer,
because
> when I click buy online no one do so. I make model railroading also, I
> find my self to be a customer who know what he buy, and it's hard to
find in
> LFS the special need I have. It's impossible also for a LFS to keep
> everything, so it why Internet should fill the gap.
>
> I really enjoy the guy who told me to replace my plants by plastic
one.
>
> Gerard.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17960 From: Aaron Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: What kind of Crawdad is this?
Hi All,

I have posted pics of the large colorful crayfish in question in the
album titled "* What is this?". It is about 10 inches long depending
on how you measure it. These are my first experiences with Crayfish.

How do you measure crayfish anyway?

It has apparently killed the other two 3 - 4" long crayfish that
were in with it. The first completely disappeared without a trace,
so it might have escaped into the hungry mouths of the curious
Kitty's. The 2ND was just taken out of the community tank 24hours
after molting a 2ND time to reveal large enough looking claws that I
was concerned for the safety of my fish. Several hours later it was
found laying sideways minus its new front claws and arms.

What to do with the corpse?

It is frozen for now as it was left uneaten for 12 hours in the
tank. I was hoping the big one would at least eat it if it did kill
it.

Can I feed it to the community tank? Raw?

The big crayfish has not been seen bothering any of the fish and
seems to prefer prepared foods like shrimp pellets, algae wafers and
freeze dried krill.

What else can/should I feed it?

It often has shrimp walking all over it and small fish hiding in the
cave with it. Because of this I assumed it to be peace-full and was
surprised to find the smaller dead. It shares the aquarium with an
aggressive Male Betta and feeder shrimp and some feeder guppies. It
is currently in a 15 gallon with a large hollow log looking piece of
driftwood that takes up 90% of the bottom 3rd of the tank with a
tall branch reaching to the top. The crawdad easily fits into it and
spends most of its time in there. The bottom is bare at the moment
as I am trying to find out the best substrate to use. I want to use
Under Gravel Filters.

What is a good substrate to use that will not compact so easily?

Does the crawdad need to burrow?

If so is there a certain kind of substrate that will work best?

It was a planted tank but I had to take everything out and start
over because this crawdad is so big that it just uprooted all the
plants, moved around all the driftwood and pushed up all the gravel
against the front like the large cichlids do.

I've read somewhere here about putting filter pad or similar
material on top of the UGF plates to keep them from getting the
slits clogged or blocked.

thanks,
Aaron
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17961 From: angel Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: My oscar is crazy LOL
I am sitting here watching TV and my 7" Oscar keeps hitting the plastic lid
on the top of the tank with his nose. He gets the darn lid up about 2 or 3
inches. LOL It is so funny to watch because I have never seen a fish do
this before.



Just wanted to share.



Thanks a Bunch,



Angel Collis

Check out My Space...

http://www.myspace.com/xxangelc <http://angelslayouts.blogspot.com/>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17962 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries
That is a point that I have raised in other posts on this general topic.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 8:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Gold goumaries

Ours did not. He remained shy and easily bullied by guppy fry even
when it had plenty of hiding spaces. However, the one my sister got
was just downright mean. I think there is a general trend of behavior
among certain species of fish, but there are also individual
personalities that can make for success where otherwise it shouldn't
work. I wouldn't count on it, but it does happen.

> If you give them a habitat they like, I think you will note that when
> they come out into the open areas of the tank, they are the boss, and
> they will brook no argument about it.
>
> \\Steve//







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17963 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 8/10/2006
Subject: Re: My oscar is crazy LOL
LOL Oscars are charecters no two ways about it, mine were quite entertaining back when I had them.
Something fun to do with oscars is to give them a toy, though I do recommend being a tad bit careful as mine broke a hood boy was that hard to explain the fish were playing ball at the time. Another time they launched out of the tank hard enough literally was the pinball effect, I was rolling until it bounced off hubbys Christian Lassen artwork don't think that would have went over like a fart in a space suit LOL. They were given different things that floated a favorite of theirs were the little ping pong balls the Wallyworld specials. Provided some entertainment for them and loads for the family, when I had oscars there was alot of time the tv wasn't on just because it was more fun to watch them, Crazy Horse and Scumbucket (plecs) with the fish version of soccer.
Shannon
angel <asplendidscrapbooks@...> wrote:
I am sitting here watching TV and my 7" Oscar keeps hitting the plastic lid
on the top of the tank with his nose. He gets the darn lid up about 2 or 3
inches. LOL It is so funny to watch because I have never seen a fish do
this before.

Just wanted to share.

Thanks a Bunch,

Angel Collis

Check out My Space...

http://www.myspace.com/xxangelc <http://angelslayouts.blogspot.com/>


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17964 From: snerticus Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
Aaron,

You might want to try Googling crayfish for a start. Another site I
myself go to (because I am interested in all freshwater invertebrates)
is Aquabid (www.aquabid.com). Under the "Invertebrates" link in the
freshwater section, you'll see all types of crayfish (and shrimp,
snails, etc...). I think I've seen that type before up for auction.
Usually, though, the individual auctions only state the scientific
name of the crayfish, so you'd have to search each auction with a
scientific name, look at each picture to try to find it. Once you've
found the crayfish you're looking for, Google the scientific name for
more info.

I am more interested in the dwarf crayfish (the ones that are 1.5" to
2.5" long as adults) because they tend not to burrow like the larger
crayfish and they are generally peacefull with most community fish.
And from what I understand, they are safe for plant tanks.

Did you catch the crayfish or did you buy it somewhere?

Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17965 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: My oscar is crazy LOL
My sisters boyfriend used to keep a tall lid on his tank, and
occasionally dangle worms from the lid with string and tape so his
oscar could jump out and get the treats. Other than the fact that
they will eat anything that doesn't move fast enough to get away,
they are fun fish to have.

> I am sitting here watching TV and my 7" Oscar keeps hitting the
plastic lid
> on the top of the tank with his nose. He gets the darn lid up about
2 or 3
> inches. LOL It is so funny to watch because I have never seen a
fish do
> this before.
>
>
>
> Just wanted to share.
>
>
>
> Thanks a Bunch,
>
>
>
> Angel Collis
>
> Check out My Space...
>
> http://www.myspace.com/xxangelc
<http://angelslayouts.blogspot.com/>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17966 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: Gold goumaries:Tank dynamics
Yup...reminds me of that simpsons episode when Bart got is pet
elephant 'stampy'. Some individuals are just jerks. :P And some
aren't. It's fun to watch tank dynamics change as fish age, and go
away, and new ones are introduced. Just when you think you have one
fish pegged, he up and changes his behaviour completely...and then you
panic for a while thinking it's a symptom of a disease, and it turns
out he just didn't like the new guy.

> That is a point that I have raised in other posts on this general
topic.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17967 From: littlenloud Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: hole in head disease
has anyone ever dealt with this? if they did, what were the results.
After talking to several "experts" at various pet stores and
helplines, I finally got some help. The guy at the pet store told me
that it was not an ulcer, it was Hole in head disease (which was why
the other stuff wasn't working). We added salt and are treating it
with I.N.Z, so hopefully we'll finally get somewhere now.

PH is still high - am adding a few drops every hour and testing water,
and added a bubble wall which seemed to stress him out, so changed to
a simple stone, and moved pleco to another tank for the time being.

i was told that one possibility was that the pleco in the tank makes
it dirtier and that's what stressed oscar out. i was also told that
hole in head disease was common for oscars.

any other oscar owners have problems with this?

thanks

Nora
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17968 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Hello Nora . what is I.N.Z. is it metronidazole ?

The firts think you should do is make a good water change, give a better
food, with calcium,phosphorus and vitamin D and of course a good antibiotic,
metronidazole oral is good. But this sickness come probably from an
unbalance diet (golden fish) and poor water condition, what is the size of
you tank, how many often you change the water and how many each time,
Oscar are messy, I was vacuuming the tank every day. It's important to
improve the quality of the water or the fungus will also be a problem.

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de littlenloud
Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 17:53
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] hole in head disease

has anyone ever dealt with this? if they did, what were the results.
After talking to several "experts" at various pet stores and
helplines, I finally got some help. The guy at the pet store told me
that it was not an ulcer, it was Hole in head disease (which was why
the other stuff wasn't working). We added salt and are treating it
with I.N.Z, so hopefully we'll finally get somewhere now.

PH is still high - am adding a few drops every hour and testing water,
and added a bubble wall which seemed to stress him out, so changed to
a simple stone, and moved pleco to another tank for the time being.

i was told that one possibility was that the pleco in the tank makes
it dirtier and that's what stressed oscar out. i was also told that
hole in head disease was common for oscars.

any other oscar owners have problems with this?

thanks

Nora






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17969 From: Annie Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Nitrites HELP!
I need to know how to get the nitrites down in my tank? I have been
using "Prime" I have emptied the tank, used the ph etc. chemical,
checked with the master test kit & everything else was great: I
vacuumed the gravel etc: Could it be the filter? Thanks, Annie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17970 From: littlenloud Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Hi Gerard,

I did a 25% water change today, and actually did a 50% water change 3
days ago, because of not having the carbon filter, since i was using
the Melafix earlier. We have a 55 gal. tank, and I've had him for 4
years (since 2002). I actually stopped feeding him goldfish after he
got ich from a batch I had boughten. I feed him pellets and krill and
bloodworms and bugs. He does have vegetables occasionally, but I
was never sure what would be "okay" to give him.

he's actaully not messy -- its the pleco that dirties the tank so
fast, and requires all the upkeep.

By the way, I had tetracycline oral, but he refuses food at this
point, so can only use the disolving tablets in the water.

Sorry, I.N.Z is metronidazole -- the dissolving tabs.

I'm also treating it with some fungus medication (Jungle Fungus
Clear). Got to go for now, my husband is bellowing for supper.


Nora
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Nora . what is I.N.Z. is it metronidazole ?
>
> The firts think you should do is make a good water change, give a better
> food, with calcium,phosphorus and vitamin D and of course a good
antibiotic,
> metronidazole oral is good. But this sickness come probably from an
> unbalance diet (golden fish) and poor water condition, what is the
size of
> you tank, how many often you change the water and how many each time,
> Oscar are messy, I was vacuuming the tank every day. It's important to
> improve the quality of the water or the fungus will also be a problem.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de littlenloud
> Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 17:53
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] hole in head disease
>
> has anyone ever dealt with this? if they did, what were the results.
> After talking to several "experts" at various pet stores and
> helplines, I finally got some help. The guy at the pet store told me
> that it was not an ulcer, it was Hole in head disease (which was why
> the other stuff wasn't working). We added salt and are treating it
> with I.N.Z, so hopefully we'll finally get somewhere now.
>
> PH is still high - am adding a few drops every hour and testing water,
> and added a bubble wall which seemed to stress him out, so changed to
> a simple stone, and moved pleco to another tank for the time being.
>
> i was told that one possibility was that the pleco in the tank makes
> it dirtier and that's what stressed oscar out. i was also told that
> hole in head disease was common for oscars.
>
> any other oscar owners have problems with this?
>
> thanks
>
> Nora
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17971 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrites HELP!
Before answer about the cycle, did you put fertilizer in your tank ? (yes
product like Hagen NPK rise the nitrite ) how long this tank is set up ?

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Annie
Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 17:36
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Nitrites HELP!

I need to know how to get the nitrites down in my tank? I have been
using "Prime" I have emptied the tank, used the ph etc. chemical,
checked with the master test kit & everything else was great: I
vacuumed the gravel etc: Could it be the filter? Thanks, Annie






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17972 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Most book will go with a treatment for the Hexamita ( bacteria who
supposedly cause the FHLLE ( Freshwater Head and Lateral Line Erosion,
Hole-in-the-head) but it's not sure than the hexamita is always present in
the lesion , no scientific study have been done, but in case better go with
metronidazole than the tetra, because many bacteria are now immune to it.
If you ever want to use the tetra make sure it's Chlortetracycline, not
Oxytetracycline, because this one will make bubble ( like soap) at the
surface of the water who will reduce the quantity of oxygen in the water
but go with the metronidazole because it's the only antibiotic know to treat
it, but they have some report than some Hexamita get immune to it too.

Give us news , for me you have 2 way too treat sickness, the first you kill
the fish to not make him not suffer more with chemical, you will not know
they work, and the other where you deal with valuable (sentimental or $)
fish they worth saving, and Oscar are one of those.

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de littlenloud
Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 19:19
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease

Hi Gerard,

I did a 25% water change today, and actually did a 50% water change 3
days ago, because of not having the carbon filter, since i was using
the Melafix earlier. We have a 55 gal. tank, and I've had him for 4
years (since 2002). I actually stopped feeding him goldfish after he
got ich from a batch I had boughten. I feed him pellets and krill and
bloodworms and bugs. He does have vegetables occasionally, but I
was never sure what would be "okay" to give him.

he's actaully not messy -- its the pleco that dirties the tank so
fast, and requires all the upkeep.

By the way, I had tetracycline oral, but he refuses food at this
point, so can only use the disolving tablets in the water.

Sorry, I.N.Z is metronidazole -- the dissolving tabs.

I'm also treating it with some fungus medication (Jungle Fungus
Clear). Got to go for now, my husband is bellowing for supper.


Nora
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Nora . what is I.N.Z. is it metronidazole ?
>
> The firts think you should do is make a good water change, give a better
> food, with calcium,phosphorus and vitamin D and of course a good
antibiotic,
> metronidazole oral is good. But this sickness come probably from an
> unbalance diet (golden fish) and poor water condition, what is the
size of
> you tank, how many often you change the water and how many each time,
> Oscar are messy, I was vacuuming the tank every day. It's important to
> improve the quality of the water or the fungus will also be a problem.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de littlenloud
> Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 17:53
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] hole in head disease
>
> has anyone ever dealt with this? if they did, what were the results.
> After talking to several "experts" at various pet stores and
> helplines, I finally got some help. The guy at the pet store told me
> that it was not an ulcer, it was Hole in head disease (which was why
> the other stuff wasn't working). We added salt and are treating it
> with I.N.Z, so hopefully we'll finally get somewhere now.
>
> PH is still high - am adding a few drops every hour and testing water,
> and added a bubble wall which seemed to stress him out, so changed to
> a simple stone, and moved pleco to another tank for the time being.
>
> i was told that one possibility was that the pleco in the tank makes
> it dirtier and that's what stressed oscar out. i was also told that
> hole in head disease was common for oscars.
>
> any other oscar owners have problems with this?
>
> thanks
>
> Nora
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17973 From: Aaron Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
I bought it at Wet Pets, a LFS in Pleasanton CA, near where I live.

It might be an Australian Red Claw (Cherax quadricarinatus) as seen
at - http://www.texasaquaponics.com/ - , but I still can not find
any info on care such as food and water conditions.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@...>
wrote:
>
> Aaron,
>
> You might want to try Googling crayfish for a start. Another site
I
> myself go to (because I am interested in all freshwater
invertebrates)
> is Aquabid (www.aquabid.com). Under the "Invertebrates" link in
the
> freshwater section, you'll see all types of crayfish (and shrimp,
> snails, etc...). I think I've seen that type before up for
auction.
> Usually, though, the individual auctions only state the scientific
> name of the crayfish, so you'd have to search each auction with a
> scientific name, look at each picture to try to find it. Once
you've
> found the crayfish you're looking for, Google the scientific name
for
> more info.
>
> I am more interested in the dwarf crayfish (the ones that are 1.5"
to
> 2.5" long as adults) because they tend not to burrow like the
larger
> crayfish and they are generally peacefull with most community
fish.
> And from what I understand, they are safe for plant tanks.
>
> Did you catch the crayfish or did you buy it somewhere?
>
> Snert
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17974 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
How much were they?
I live one town over in Livermore.
Is that General pet store still next store to Wet Pets?

Do you attend any of the Bay Area Aquarium society meetings?

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: anonymous122899@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 11 Aug 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?


I bought it at Wet Pets, a LFS in Pleasanton CA, near where I live.

It might be an Australian Red Claw (Cherax quadricarinatus) as seen
at - http://www.texasaquaponics.com/ - , but I still can not find
any info on care such as food and water conditions.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17975 From: littlenloud Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Gerard,

Thanks. he may not be especially valuable, but he's definately
valuable to me, and there's lots of sentimental value. he's gotten
quite big, and does little tricks, and is not just any fish. I'm sure
all you fish owners here can understand that! I definately want to
save him if possible, am hoping he'll be okay. However, i don't want
him to suffer needlessly, so will be monitoring it closely.

Right nwo, He has seemed to perk up a bit, though still obviously not
his old self. As it got pretty severe before being properly
diagnosed, and because was not using right medication, it will not be
one of those things that go away overnight. It will definately take
time, but I am testing the water several times a day, and am planning
on doing water changes every 3 days until he heals.

I do have one question. Right now, I'm using just a simple filter
sleeve in the filter for the filtration, as you are supposed to remove
active carbon. Will that hold the infection, or should the medicine
go through the filtration as well and kill any bacteria in the filter?
I don't want to expose it to him again if there's bacteria lurking in
the filter.

I'll keep you updated. Thanks!

Nora



-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Most book will go with a treatment for the Hexamita ( bacteria who
> supposedly cause the FHLLE ( Freshwater Head and Lateral Line Erosion,
> Hole-in-the-head) but it's not sure than the hexamita is always
present in
> the lesion , no scientific study have been done, but in case better
go with
> metronidazole than the tetra, because many bacteria are now immune
to it.
> If you ever want to use the tetra make sure it's Chlortetracycline, not
> Oxytetracycline, because this one will make bubble ( like soap) at the
> surface of the water who will reduce the quantity of oxygen in the water
> but go with the metronidazole because it's the only antibiotic know
to treat
> it, but they have some report than some Hexamita get immune to it
too.
>
> Give us news , for me you have 2 way too treat sickness, the first
you kill
> the fish to not make him not suffer more with chemical, you will not
know
> they work, and the other where you deal with valuable (sentimental or $)
> fish they worth saving, and Oscar are one of those.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de littlenloud
> Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 19:19
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
>
> Hi Gerard,
>
> I did a 25% water change today, and actually did a 50% water change 3
> days ago, because of not having the carbon filter, since i was using
> the Melafix earlier. We have a 55 gal. tank, and I've had him for 4
> years (since 2002). I actually stopped feeding him goldfish after he
> got ich from a batch I had boughten. I feed him pellets and krill and
> bloodworms and bugs. He does have vegetables occasionally, but I
> was never sure what would be "okay" to give him.
>
> he's actaully not messy -- its the pleco that dirties the tank so
> fast, and requires all the upkeep.
>
> By the way, I had tetracycline oral, but he refuses food at this
> point, so can only use the disolving tablets in the water.
>
> Sorry, I.N.Z is metronidazole -- the dissolving tabs.
>
> I'm also treating it with some fungus medication (Jungle Fungus
> Clear). Got to go for now, my husband is bellowing for supper.
>
>
> Nora
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Nora . what is I.N.Z. is it metronidazole ?
> >
> > The firts think you should do is make a good water change, give a
better
> > food, with calcium,phosphorus and vitamin D and of course a good
> antibiotic,
> > metronidazole oral is good. But this sickness come probably from an
> > unbalance diet (golden fish) and poor water condition, what is the
> size of
> > you tank, how many often you change the water and how many each time,
> > Oscar are messy, I was vacuuming the tank every day. It's
important to
> > improve the quality of the water or the fungus will also be a problem.
> >
> > Gerard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de littlenloud
> > Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 17:53
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] hole in head disease
> >
> > has anyone ever dealt with this? if they did, what were the results.
> > After talking to several "experts" at various pet stores and
> > helplines, I finally got some help. The guy at the pet store told me
> > that it was not an ulcer, it was Hole in head disease (which was why
> > the other stuff wasn't working). We added salt and are treating it
> > with I.N.Z, so hopefully we'll finally get somewhere now.
> >
> > PH is still high - am adding a few drops every hour and testing water,
> > and added a bubble wall which seemed to stress him out, so changed to
> > a simple stone, and moved pleco to another tank for the time being.
> >
> > i was told that one possibility was that the pleco in the tank makes
> > it dirtier and that's what stressed oscar out. i was also told that
> > hole in head disease was common for oscars.
> >
> > any other oscar owners have problems with this?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > Nora
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
.·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
.·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17976 From: Aaron Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
Hi Mike,

Best Friends CLOSED as the Owner has retired. There was only 1 at
Wet Pets, the owner there (Waldo?) said a customer brought it in. I
got it for $15. I've been researching online and found a place in
Miami that sells them for $30.

http://www.miami-aquaculture.com/redclaw.htm

I still can't find any basic care info or how long they live.

I've been to a Silcon Valley Aqurium Society (SVAS) meeting once at
the Round Table in the SJ area.

I hear the AGA will be in SF soon, looking forward to that.

I'm in Livermore as well, over by the Airport off of the Portola
exit.

All I can find so far is that they need Iodine and Calcium
Suplements, something like Reef or Marine tanks use.

I've heard there is somekind of substrate that slowly dissolves
Calcium into the water and helps buffer/stabalize the pH.

Anybody know what kinds?

What other Bay Area Aquarium Society meetings are there?

thanks,
Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> How much were they?
> I live one town over in Livermore.
> Is that General pet store still next store to Wet Pets?
>
> Do you attend any of the Bay Area Aquarium society meetings?
>
> Mike
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
>
>
> I bought it at Wet Pets, a LFS in Pleasanton CA, near where I live.
>
> It might be an Australian Red Claw (Cherax quadricarinatus) as
seen at - http://www.texasaquaponics.com/ - , but I still can not
find any info on care such as food and water conditions.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17977 From: littlenloud Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
hi, i have some questions about live plants in tanks. i have a few,
and would like to get more, and eventually have it heavily planted,
but don't have much experience. i didn't want to bother with trying
to raise plants at first but concentrate on the fish. now that i'm
comfortable with the fish, i'd much rather they have real plants in
the tank. i hate the plastic ones, and my oscar tries to eat some of
them, so i'm sure he hates them too.

i hear alot of talk about substrate, and have seen some files
regarding substrate and aquqrium plants. Is this completely
necessary? Or can you have plants that will thrive just in the gravel
and the water?

For those of you who do have substrate, do you have an undergravel
filter? how do you clean the tank? How do you clean around the plants?

Thanks,

Nora
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17978 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?
Hi Aaron,
I am over off Stanley, just moved in 2 weeks ago.

Maybe I will get some native crayfish for my pond.

Thanks for the information about Best Friends place closing. I have to find another location for bird food now.

As for other Aquariumn Societies the PCCA, Pacific Coast Cichlid Association, meets on the 2nd Saturday of every month at the same location as the Silicon Valley club. Tomorrow is that 2nd Saturday and we have Myles Neiman talking about fish from Lake Tanganyika.


Next month I booked an aquatic plant speaker to speak at the Silicon Valley club. Erik from "TheKrib" will be doing a presentation and also advertising for the AGA that you mentioned. Even though I am not big into plants I plan on going to the AGA convention.

You may want to check out the Silicon Valley club in October, that is the Mega Auction. Usually a big hit for buyers and sellers.

OH, almost forgot, the San Francisco Aquarium Society meets at San Francisco State University the 1st Friday of every month. I can rarely attend that one as I work evenings, but I miss going to that club.

You may notice I am a bit over the top on the aquarium societies, I can't get enough of them.

Maybe we will finally run into each other, I seem to recall speaking with you online a year ago or so.

Mike



-----Original Message-----
From: anonymous122899@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 11 Aug 2006 7:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?


Hi Mike,

Best Friends CLOSED as the Owner has retired. There was only 1 at
Wet Pets, the owner there (Waldo?) said a customer brought it in. I
got it for $15. I've been researching online and found a place in
Miami that sells them for $30.

http://www.miami-aquaculture.com/redclaw.htm

I still can't find any basic care info or how long they live.

I've been to a Silcon Valley Aqurium Society (SVAS) meeting once at
the Round Table in the SJ area.

I hear the AGA will be in SF soon, looking forward to that.

I

What other Bay Area Aquarium Society meetings are there?

thanks,
Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> How much were they?
> I live one town over in Livermore.
> Is that General pet store still next store to Wet Pets?
>
> Do you attend any of the Bay Area Aquarium society meetings?
>
> Mike
>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17979 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Please check out "nosickfish.com" look for HTH cure.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: littlenloud
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] hole in head disease


has anyone ever dealt with this? if they did, what were the results.
After talking to several "experts" at various pet stores and
helplines, I finally got some help. The guy at the pet store told me
that it was not an ulcer, it was Hole in head disease (which was why
the other stuff wasn't working). We added salt and are treating it
with I.N.Z, so hopefully we'll finally get somewhere now.

PH is still high - am adding a few drops every hour and testing water,
and added a bubble wall which seemed to stress him out, so changed to
a simple stone, and moved pleco to another tank for the time being.

i was told that one possibility was that the pleco in the tank makes
it dirtier and that's what stressed oscar out. i was also told that
hole in head disease was common for oscars.

any other oscar owners have problems with this?

thanks

Nora





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17980 From: chris topher Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
my experience...

and i'm way into minimal maintenance...

plants that work for me: annubias, java fern
anacharis, bulbitas, giant hair grass, and various
crypts...all seem to spread well...

i have just gravel, works fine even with undergravel
filters, but if i do use undergravel filtration i
usually have a small side filter in conjunction...

seachem makes a line of fertilizers called flourish, i
use flourish excel about once a month...

most of my tanks get some direct sunlight, if not i
turn the lights on first thing in the morning...

heres the part most people have a problem with, i dont
vacumn the gravel, never do water changes, just refill
when they get low...

however, its better with minimal fish, also larger
tanks are always less stress than small ones...

fish include guppies, mollies, swords, platys, balas,
various tetras, angels, hatchets, bettas, white
clouds, corys, plecos...

i have 8 tanks of various sizes...

one cichlid tank, plastic plants in that one because
the silly things dig up live plants, dual filtration
as well...

so, my advice is experiment, see what works for you,
and dont beat youself up if fish and plants die now
and again...

woody

--- littlenloud <littlenloud@...> wrote:

> hi, i have some questions about live plants in
> tanks. i have a few,
> and would like to get more, and eventually have it
> heavily planted,
> but don't have much experience. i didn't want to
> bother with trying
> to raise plants at first but concentrate on the
> fish. now that i'm
> comfortable with the fish, i'd much rather they have
> real plants in
> the tank. i hate the plastic ones, and my oscar
> tries to eat some of
> them, so i'm sure he hates them too.
>
> i hear alot of talk about substrate, and have seen
> some files
> regarding substrate and aquqrium plants. Is this
> completely
> necessary? Or can you have plants that will thrive
> just in the gravel
> and the water?
>
> For those of you who do have substrate, do you have
> an undergravel
> filter? how do you clean the tank? How do you
> clean around the plants?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nora
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17981 From: Aaron Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: lfs and Aqurium Societys (was - Re: What kind of Crawdad is this?)
Hi Mike, (& anybody else in the area)

Check out -

Village Pet Shop (925) 443-3015
3008 Pacific Ave., Livermore CA 94550
~ Serving the Tri-Valley since 1966 ~ M-F 10-7, Sat 10-6 ~
Bob LaFave - Owner/Operator ~

he has a great selection of general pet supplies

another lfs -

Aquapet (925) 443-TANK (8265)
101 N Livermore Ave., Livermore, CA 94550
http://www.aquapet.com

- is also off Stanely, closer to downtown from it's previous location
just fish stuff there

thanks for the info on the PCCA & SFAS, do you have any specifics or
website so it can be added to the groups Calendar? that would be a
helpful reminder

thanks again,
Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> Hi Aaron,
> I am over off Stanley, just moved in 2 weeks ago.
>
> Maybe I will get some native crayfish for my pond.
>
> Thanks for the information about Best Friends place closing. I
have to find another location for bird food now.
>
> As for other Aquariumn Societies the PCCA, Pacific Coast Cichlid
Association, meets on the 2nd Saturday of every month at the same
location as the Silicon Valley club. Tomorrow is that 2nd Saturday
and we have Myles Neiman talking about fish from Lake Tanganyika.
>
>
> Next month I booked an aquatic plant speaker to speak at the
Silicon Valley club. Erik from "TheKrib" will be doing a
presentation and also advertising for the AGA that you mentioned.
Even though I am not big into plants I plan on going to the AGA
convention.
>
> You may want to check out the Silicon Valley club in October, that
is the Mega Auction. Usually a big hit for buyers and sellers.
>
> OH, almost forgot, the San Francisco Aquarium Society meets at San
Francisco State University the 1st Friday of every month. I can
rarely attend that one as I work evenings, but I miss going to that
club.
>
> You may notice I am a bit over the top on the aquarium societies,
I can't get enough of them.
>
> Maybe we will finally run into each other, I seem to recall
speaking with you online a year ago or so.
>
> Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17982 From: Aaron Date: 8/11/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Hi Nora,

I do not yet have a True Planted Tank, just an Aquarium with a lot
of Live Plants (about 17 different kinds).

There are several Substrates marketed for Planted Tanks. I am
currently using Eco-Complete which comes with water in the bag. It
is said to be the freshwater equal to live sand. I like it because I
do not have to wash it like the others.

There are Floating Plants like Wisteria & Hornwort and plants that
do not root - like Java Ferns & Java Moss that will attach to
driftwood and rocks. Most plants do develop complex root systems to
feed and need some kind of supplements added to just plain gravel to
help them grow. These kinds of plants are not recommended for tanks
with an UGF as they with be difficult to move without causing damage
to the roots that have grown below the UGF plates.

The nice thing about a Planted tank is - less cleaning, it's best to
not disturb the gravel around the plants when vaccuming. The rooted
plants will feed off the stuff you would otherwise normally vaccum
out.

I currently have an UGF on 1/2 of the tank. It will be taken out as
soon I get some sand to go with the new Hydrokable substrate heater
I need to install. The plants on that 1/2 are still potted so
hopefully the roots won't get as tangled under the plates.

What kind of plants do you have/want?
How many watts per gallon of what kind of lights?


Hope that helps,
Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "littlenloud" <littlenloud@...>
wrote:
>
> hi, i have some questions about live plants in tanks. ...
>
> i hear alot of talk about substrate, and have seen some files
> regarding substrate and aquqrium plants. Is this completely
> necessary? Or can you have plants that will thrive just in the
gravel and the water?
>
> For those of you who do have substrate, do you have an undergravel
> filter? how do you clean the tank? How do you clean around the
plants?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nora
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17983 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
> i hear alot of talk about substrate, and have seen some files
> regarding substrate and aquqrium plants. Is this completely
> necessary? Or can you have plants that will thrive just in the gravel
> and the water?

Some plants can do quite well with just gravel. Some derive their
nutrients from the water. But most of the really attractive plants
that people desire in their tanks require a good substrate. Since your
tank is already established, just mix up a glob of substrate and wrap
it in a coffee filter, then tuck it down under the gravel and put the
plant next to, or on top of it.
>
> For those of you who do have substrate, do you have an undergravel
> filter? how do you clean the tank? How do you clean around the
plants?

No, I do not have an undergravel filter. I use the siphon hose to suck
snails off the leaves and to remove detrious around the base of the
plants, and to suck off dead leaves. The ones that won't come off for
the hose i just pull off by hand. I use the fertilizer tabs at the
base of the plants under the gravel, rather than adding to the nitrogen
problem by using liquid fertilizers.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17984 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
"heres the part most people have a problem with, i dont
vacumn the gravel, never do water changes, just refill
when they get low..."

That can work with some, but with us our water is so hard already that
doing that gets us some really nasty sediment build up and water so
hard it's ridiculous.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17985 From: chris topher Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
are you on a well?, we are but its a very very sandy
area, and the water seems pretty good....

woody

--- cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
wrote:

> "heres the part most people have a problem with, i
> dont
> vacumn the gravel, never do water changes, just
> refill
> when they get low..."
>
> That can work with some, but with us our water is
> so hard already that
> doing that gets us some really nasty sediment build
> up and water so
> hard it's ridiculous.
>
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17986 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Thanks! I actually have both tanks in direct sunlight, so that works
well. I currently do not have an undergravel filter, just the large
filter at the top. My pleco creates alot of waste, and would like the
plants to help with that. Right now, I just planted a java fern, which
is doing well (no substrate currently, just gravel).

I do regular water changes, with an oscar and and a pleco (both large),
its pretty much something that can't not be done! with the goldfish,
its alot easier to manage his tank. :)

i've checked out some plants that i like, that look easy and dont'
require substrate, but there are some cool ones that DO need
substrate... am thinking i'll see how my 'easy" plants live and then go
from there. lol, if i can't keep those alive, i won't try anything
more complicated. :P

you know what? I have NO idea what the wattage is on my lighting. How
bad is that? I'm at work now, so can't check. However, both tanks
have full sunlight, like i said.

the algae goes nuts in the goldfish tank, i'm constantly scrubbing
sides. would plants help with that problem?

thanks,

Nora
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
>
> my experience...
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17987 From: habskahuna Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish
I'm brand new to this list and have a question...
I have a 90 gallon freshwater planted tank with a fine gravel/peat
pellet/laterite substrate that has been set up for about 5 years. In
it are lots of vals and anubius, some hygro, some previously large but
now dying madagascar lace plants, some java ferns, and a few other
assorted plants. The fish are 5 small and 2 large clown loaches, one
twig catfish, and a couple of assorted corys, a few small assorted
tetras, and 4 medium angelfish.
Over the last 6 months I have been fighting a constant and losing
battle with blue-green slime algae. I have gone through periods of
doing water changes every day (no difference). I have tweaked the
times that the lights are on (no difference). I have tested for
anything I can think of. As a result, I am using phosphate absorbing
resins, as that is the only component that ever tests even marginally
high-ish at all...that has also made very little difference.
Having done some research, I have *almost* decided to try erythromycin
at 100mg/10 gallons for 5-7 days, as it seems universally accepted
that this will work against this cyano-bacterial invader. The only
issue I have is the risk to scale-less fish. Some people say that
this 1/2 dose is safe, some say *any* is risky. I'm quite attached
:-) to my catfish and don't want to kill them to save my plants!
Has anyone had experience with this?
Also, if I decide to move some or all of the catfishes to my 16 gallon
(currently *very* lightly stocked with hardy fish) how long can 16
gallons sustain this larger population?
I'm sooooo frustrated....

Carmen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17988 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Hi,

thanks for the help. :) I've been checking out some plants online.
I can't remember the name of the plant i bought, it looks like
western midfoil.

Right now, i don't have an UGF. I've been looking at some "easy"
plants, and like giant Anubias, javafern, Dwarf Bascopa, Dwarf
hygropila, dwarf ambulia, red ludwigia, gayil, dwarf rotala, dwarf
hairgrass (though that looks like it needs a substrate), green
wendtii crypt, and brazilian pennywart.

I thought I'd narrow it down to a few favorites, and try to start
something. I'd like a few tall plants, and some shorts to fill up
the bottom, and then a few mediums for variance. I have the oscar
and pleco, so I don't want it TOO full, but enough to make it
interesting for him and give oscar something to nibble on. :)

I have a 55 gal tank, and then a 10 gal. goldfish tank. I also have
a 29 gal tank (unused. I would like to get some crustaceans, and
will probably eventually start up something in the 29 gal. again.
Currently, I don't have a stand for it; thus it sits, until I can
cough up some money to start one.

Like I said the tank is in direct sunlight, so that helps with
lighting too. :) Unfortunatly, I don't know what watts per gallon I
have - i never checked. am at work now; will do that when i get home.

thanks for all the help. the whole plant realm in aquariums is a bit
new to me! however, i can keep my houseplants alive, lol, so i
should be able to venture out into this realm without too much
trouble. :)

Nora
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17989 From: chris topher Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
http://www.aquariumplants.com/
AquariumGarden.com

both great sources for plants, have gotten great
plants from them, no minumum order required...

the lfs has very little selection and said they'd
never heard of annubias...

woody

--- littlenloud <littlenloud@...> wrote:

>
> Thanks! I actually have both tanks in direct
> sunlight, so that works
> well. I currently do not have an undergravel
> filter, just the large
> filter at the top. My pleco creates alot of waste,
> and would like the
> plants to help with that. Right now, I just planted
> a java fern, which
> is doing well (no substrate currently, just gravel).
>
>
> I do regular water changes, with an oscar and and a
> pleco (both large),
> its pretty much something that can't not be done!
> with the goldfish,
> its alot easier to manage his tank. :)
>
> i've checked out some plants that i like, that look
> easy and dont'
> require substrate, but there are some cool ones that
> DO need
> substrate... am thinking i'll see how my 'easy"
> plants live and then go
> from there. lol, if i can't keep those alive, i
> won't try anything
> more complicated. :P
>
> you know what? I have NO idea what the wattage is
> on my lighting. How
> bad is that? I'm at work now, so can't check.
> However, both tanks
> have full sunlight, like i said.
>
> the algae goes nuts in the goldfish tank, i'm
> constantly scrubbing
> sides. would plants help with that problem?
>
> thanks,
>
> Nora
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, chris topher
> <humbottom@...> wrote:
> >
> > my experience...
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17990 From: chris topher Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish
if it is indeed cyano bacteria the best way to
control/kill it is hydrogen peroxide, it's an
overnight miracle...
i joined the list because of that very same problem...
recommended dose was 1oz per 10 gallons, i used half
that, with no ill effects to either established plants
or to my fish...
it also seems to work well on "hair" algae and brown
algae...
i was sceptical but trying beat the hell out of
breaking down the tank and bleaching everything...

woody

--- habskahuna <eskielists@...> wrote:

> I'm brand new to this list and have a question...
> I have a 90 gallon freshwater planted tank with a
> fine gravel/peat
> pellet/laterite substrate that has been set up for
> about 5 years. In
> it are lots of vals and anubius, some hygro, some
> previously large but
> now dying madagascar lace plants, some java ferns,
> and a few other
> assorted plants. The fish are 5 small and 2 large
> clown loaches, one
> twig catfish, and a couple of assorted corys, a few
> small assorted
> tetras, and 4 medium angelfish.
> Over the last 6 months I have been fighting a
> constant and losing
> battle with blue-green slime algae. I have gone
> through periods of
> doing water changes every day (no difference). I
> have tweaked the
> times that the lights are on (no difference). I
> have tested for
> anything I can think of. As a result, I am using
> phosphate absorbing
> resins, as that is the only component that ever
> tests even marginally
> high-ish at all...that has also made very little
> difference.
> Having done some research, I have *almost* decided
> to try erythromycin
> at 100mg/10 gallons for 5-7 days, as it seems
> universally accepted
> that this will work against this cyano-bacterial
> invader. The only
> issue I have is the risk to scale-less fish. Some
> people say that
> this 1/2 dose is safe, some say *any* is risky. I'm
> quite attached
> :-) to my catfish and don't want to kill them to
> save my plants!
> Has anyone had experience with this?
> Also, if I decide to move some or all of the
> catfishes to my 16 gallon
> (currently *very* lightly stocked with hardy fish)
> how long can 16
> gallons sustain this larger population?
> I'm sooooo frustrated....
>
> Carmen
>
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 17991 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: live plants in tank -- questions about substrate
Thanks! :) I have definately seen some pretty cool ones that of
course require substrate, but also some simple ones that i like that
don't.

I had seen some very complicated set ups for substrate on some
aquarium sites, so was wondering how to set that up on an established
tank. I guess that was my main concern. if you can do it easily
enough by putting it right under the gravel in an established tank
then that will be much easier. :)

Are there any good "recipes" for substrate that you know of?

Thanks for your help!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
>
> > i hear alot of talk about substrate, and have seen some files
> > regarding substrate and aquqrium plants. Is this completely
> > necessary? Or can you have plants that will thrive just in the
gravel
> > and the water?
>
> Some plants can do quite well with just gravel. Some derive their
> nutrients from the water. But most of the really attractive plants
> that people desire in their tanks require a good substrate. Since
your
> tank is already established, just mix up a glob of substrate and
wrap
> it in a coffee filter, then tuck it down under the gravel and put
the
> plant next to, or on top of it.
> >
> > For those of you who do have substrate, do you have an undergravel
> > filter? how do you clean the tank? How do you clean around the
> plants?
>
> No, I do not have an undergravel filter. I use the siphon hose to
suck
> snails off the leaves and to remove detrious around the base of the
> plants, and to suck off dead leaves. The ones that won't come off
for
> the hose i just pull off by hand. I use the fertilizer tabs at the
> base of the plants under the gravel, rather than adding to the
nitrogen
> problem by using liquid fertilizers.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17992 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
-----Message d'origine-----
De : Gerard gagnon [mailto:dataxpert@...]
Envoyé : 12 août, 2006 07:57
À : 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Objet : TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease



Of course you have to save it, what I means in my last email, is you don't
treat a full aquarium with 50 fish, for sickness only if by example a neon
is sick,

I have a list on my web site of the product who affects the filtration,
unfortunately no info on the metronidazole, when my fish room will be
complete I will expend this list.

Do you have an other aquarium, because you can keep your media in this one
for keep the bacteria.

http://www.aqualab.ca/healt/pharmacology/treatment.htm



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de littlenloud
Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 22:34
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease

Gerard,


I do have one question. Right now, I'm using just a simple filter
sleeve in the filter for the filtration, as you are supposed to remove
active carbon. Will that hold the infection, or should the medicine
go through the filtration as well and kill any bacteria in the filter?
I don't want to expose it to him again if there's bacteria lurking in
the filter.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17993 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
Metronidazole did not affect my filtration when I used it.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 1:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease





-----Message d'origine-----
De : Gerard gagnon [mailto:dataxpert@bellnet.
<mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca]
Envoyé : 12 août, 2006 07:57
À : 'AquaticLife@ <mailto:%27AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com'
Objet : TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease

Of course you have to save it, what I means in my last email, is you don't
treat a full aquarium with 50 fish, for sickness only if by example a neon
is sick,

I have a list on my web site of the product who affects the filtration,
unfortunately no info on the metronidazole, when my fish room will be
complete I will expend this list.

Do you have an other aquarium, because you can keep your media in this one
for keep the bacteria.

http://www.aqualab <http://www.aqualab.ca/healt/pharmacology/treatment.htm>
ca/healt/pharmacology/treatment.htm

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de littlenloud
Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 22:34
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease

Gerard,

I do have one question. Right now, I'm using just a simple filter
sleeve in the filter for the filtration, as you are supposed to remove
active carbon. Will that hold the infection, or should the medicine
go through the filtration as well and kill any bacteria in the filter?
I don't want to expose it to him again if there's bacteria lurking in
the filter.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17994 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
Gerard,

Thanks. Yes, I do have another aquarium. I saved the filter i was
using before i started the medication, but no doubt that has the
bacteria, and I was thinking I should pour boiling water on it to
kill the bad bacteria before sticking it in good "healthy" fish tank.

Nora

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Gerard gagnon [mailto:dataxpert@...]
> Envoyé : 12 août, 2006 07:57
> À : 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
> Objet : TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
>
>
>
> Of course you have to save it, what I means in my last email, is
you don't
> treat a full aquarium with 50 fish, for sickness only if by example
a neon
> is sick,
>
> I have a list on my web site of the product who affects the
filtration,
> unfortunately no info on the metronidazole, when my fish room will
be
> complete I will expend this list.
>
> Do you have an other aquarium, because you can keep your media in
this one
> for keep the bacteria.
>
> http://www.aqualab.ca/healt/pharmacology/treatment.htm
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de littlenloud
> Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 22:34
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
>
> Gerard,
>
>
> I do have one question. Right now, I'm using just a simple filter
> sleeve in the filter for the filtration, as you are supposed to
remove
> active carbon. Will that hold the infection, or should the medicine
> go through the filtration as well and kill any bacteria in the
filter?
> I don't want to expose it to him again if there's bacteria lurking
in
> the filter.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17995 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: any crustacean owners here?
I would like to get a small crab, but do not want any problems with
crab and fish, or vice versa. Does anyone know what the ideal fish are
to have with crabs? I have an oscar and pleco in 55 gal. tank and a
goldfish in the smaller 10 gal. one.

thanks,

Nora
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17996 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
also, thanks for the link! that makes sense to filter for 24 hours
and then change filter. :) thanks for the help. :)

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Gerard gagnon [mailto:dataxpert@...]
> Envoyé : 12 août, 2006 07:57
> À : 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
> Objet : TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
>
>
>
> Of course you have to save it, what I means in my last email, is
you don't
> treat a full aquarium with 50 fish, for sickness only if by example
a neon
> is sick,
>
> I have a list on my web site of the product who affects the
filtration,
> unfortunately no info on the metronidazole, when my fish room will
be
> complete I will expend this list.
>
> Do you have an other aquarium, because you can keep your media in
this one
> for keep the bacteria.
>
> http://www.aqualab.ca/healt/pharmacology/treatment.htm
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de littlenloud
> Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 22:34
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
>
> Gerard,
>
>
> I do have one question. Right now, I'm using just a simple filter
> sleeve in the filter for the filtration, as you are supposed to
remove
> active carbon. Will that hold the infection, or should the medicine
> go through the filtration as well and kill any bacteria in the
filter?
> I don't want to expose it to him again if there's bacteria lurking
in
> the filter.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17997 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
If you pour boiling water into the filter, you will kill the good bacteria
as well.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of littlenloud
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 2:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease



Gerard,

Thanks. Yes, I do have another aquarium. I saved the filter i was
using before i started the medication, but no doubt that has the
bacteria, and I was thinking I should pour boiling water on it to
kill the bad bacteria before sticking it in good "healthy" fish tank.

Nora

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Gerard gagnon [mailto:dataxpert@...]
> Envoyé : 12 août, 2006 07:57
> À : 'AquaticLife@ <mailto:%27AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com'
> Objet : TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
>
>
>
> Of course you have to save it, what I means in my last email, is
you don't
> treat a full aquarium with 50 fish, for sickness only if by example
a neon
> is sick,
>
> I have a list on my web site of the product who affects the
filtration,
> unfortunately no info on the metronidazole, when my fish room will
be
> complete I will expend this list.
>
> Do you have an other aquarium, because you can keep your media in
this one
> for keep the bacteria.
>
> http://www.aqualab
<http://www.aqualab.ca/healt/pharmacology/treatment.htm>
ca/healt/pharmacology/treatment.htm
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
> part de littlenloud
> Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 22:34
> À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
>
> Gerard,
>
>
> I do have one question. Right now, I'm using just a simple filter
> sleeve in the filter for the filtration, as you are supposed to
remove
> active carbon. Will that hold the infection, or should the medicine
> go through the filtration as well and kill any bacteria in the
filter?
> I don't want to expose it to him again if there's bacteria lurking
in
> the filter.
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17998 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
You don't need to disinfect the filter, the Hexamita are present in every
intestine of every fish, it's only when a fish come weak they expend to
other part and may form the hole in the head in oscar ( but not proof
scientifically yet )



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de littlenloud
Envoyé : 12 août, 2006 14:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease

Gerard,

Thanks. Yes, I do have another aquarium. I saved the filter i was
using before i started the medication, but no doubt that has the
bacteria, and I was thinking I should pour boiling water on it to
kill the bad bacteria before sticking it in good "healthy" fish tank.

Nora

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Gerard gagnon [mailto:dataxpert@...]
> Envoyé : 12 août, 2006 07:57
> À : 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
> Objet : TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
>
>
>
> Of course you have to save it, what I means in my last email, is
you don't
> treat a full aquarium with 50 fish, for sickness only if by example
a neon
> is sick,
>
> I have a list on my web site of the product who affects the
filtration,
> unfortunately no info on the metronidazole, when my fish room will
be
> complete I will expend this list.
>
> Do you have an other aquarium, because you can keep your media in
this one
> for keep the bacteria.
>
> http://www.aqualab.ca/healt/pharmacology/treatment.htm
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de littlenloud
> Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 22:34
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
>
> Gerard,
>
>
> I do have one question. Right now, I'm using just a simple filter
> sleeve in the filter for the filtration, as you are supposed to
remove
> active carbon. Will that hold the infection, or should the medicine
> go through the filtration as well and kill any bacteria in the
filter?
> I don't want to expose it to him again if there's bacteria lurking
in
> the filter.
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 17999 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish
I think moving your scaleless fish is a definite must if you are using
anything potentially unsafe to them. And I think that they will be OK
in the smaller tank as long as you do the maintenance it needs to handle
the bioload.
My two cents...
L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of habskahuna
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 11:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish



I'm brand new to this list and have a question...
I have a 90 gallon freshwater planted tank with a fine gravel/peat
pellet/laterite substrate that has been set up for about 5 years. In
it are lots of vals and anubius, some hygro, some previously large but
now dying madagascar lace plants, some java ferns, and a few other
assorted plants. The fish are 5 small and 2 large clown loaches, one
twig catfish, and a couple of assorted corys, a few small assorted
tetras, and 4 medium angelfish.
Over the last 6 months I have been fighting a constant and losing
battle with blue-green slime algae. I have gone through periods of
doing water changes every day (no difference). I have tweaked the
times that the lights are on (no difference). I have tested for
anything I can think of. As a result, I am using phosphate absorbing
resins, as that is the only component that ever tests even marginally
high-ish at all...that has also made very little difference.
Having done some research, I have *almost* decided to try erythromycin
at 100mg/10 gallons for 5-7 days, as it seems universally accepted
that this will work against this cyano-bacterial invader. The only
issue I have is the risk to scale-less fish. Some people say that
this 1/2 dose is safe, some say *any* is risky. I'm quite attached
:-) to my catfish and don't want to kill them to save my plants!
Has anyone had experience with this?
Also, if I decide to move some or all of the catfishes to my 16 gallon
(currently *very* lightly stocked with hardy fish) how long can 16
gallons sustain this larger population?
I'm sooooo frustrated....

Carmen







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18000 From: chris topher Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish
one more thing to add...

i tried abx and it didnt work...

woody

--- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:

> I think moving your scaleless fish is a definite
> must if you are using
> anything potentially unsafe to them. And I think
> that they will be OK
> in the smaller tank as long as you do the
> maintenance it needs to handle
> the bioload.
> My two cents...
> L
>
>
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of habskahuna
> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 11:45 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Erythromycin and Clown
> loaches/catfish
>
>
>
> I'm brand new to this list and have a question...
> I have a 90 gallon freshwater planted tank with a
> fine gravel/peat
> pellet/laterite substrate that has been set up for
> about 5 years. In
> it are lots of vals and anubius, some hygro, some
> previously large but
> now dying madagascar lace plants, some java ferns,
> and a few other
> assorted plants. The fish are 5 small and 2 large
> clown loaches, one
> twig catfish, and a couple of assorted corys, a few
> small assorted
> tetras, and 4 medium angelfish.
> Over the last 6 months I have been fighting a
> constant and losing
> battle with blue-green slime algae. I have gone
> through periods of
> doing water changes every day (no difference). I
> have tweaked the
> times that the lights are on (no difference). I have
> tested for
> anything I can think of. As a result, I am using
> phosphate absorbing
> resins, as that is the only component that ever
> tests even marginally
> high-ish at all...that has also made very little
> difference.
> Having done some research, I have *almost* decided
> to try erythromycin
> at 100mg/10 gallons for 5-7 days, as it seems
> universally accepted
> that this will work against this cyano-bacterial
> invader. The only
> issue I have is the risk to scale-less fish. Some
> people say that
> this 1/2 dose is safe, some say *any* is risky. I'm
> quite attached
> :-) to my catfish and don't want to kill them to
> save my plants!
> Has anyone had experience with this?
> Also, if I decide to move some or all of the
> catfishes to my 16 gallon
> (currently *very* lightly stocked with hardy fish)
> how long can 16
> gallons sustain this larger population?
> I'm sooooo frustrated....
>
> Carmen
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18002 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: hole in head disease
thanks! :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> You don't need to disinfect the filter, the Hexamita are present
in every
> intestine of every fish, it's only when a fish come weak they
expend to
> other part and may form the hole in the head in oscar ( but not
proof
> scientifically yet )
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de littlenloud
> Envoyé : 12 août, 2006 14:26
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
>
> Gerard,
>
> Thanks. Yes, I do have another aquarium. I saved the filter i was
> using before i started the medication, but no doubt that has the
> bacteria, and I was thinking I should pour boiling water on it to
> kill the bad bacteria before sticking it in good "healthy" fish
tank.
>
> Nora
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : Gerard gagnon [mailto:dataxpert@]
> > Envoyé : 12 août, 2006 07:57
> > À : 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
> > Objet : TR: [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
> >
> >
> >
> > Of course you have to save it, what I means in my last email, is
> you don't
> > treat a full aquarium with 50 fish, for sickness only if by
example
> a neon
> > is sick,
> >
> > I have a list on my web site of the product who affects the
> filtration,
> > unfortunately no info on the metronidazole, when my fish room
will
> be
> > complete I will expend this list.
> >
> > Do you have an other aquarium, because you can keep your media in
> this one
> > for keep the bacteria.
> >
> > http://www.aqualab.ca/healt/pharmacology/treatment.htm
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de littlenloud
> > Envoyé : 11 août, 2006 22:34
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: hole in head disease
> >
> > Gerard,
> >
> >
> > I do have one question. Right now, I'm using just a simple filter
> > sleeve in the filter for the filtration, as you are supposed to
> remove
> > active carbon. Will that hold the infection, or should the
medicine
> > go through the filtration as well and kill any bacteria in the
> filter?
> > I don't want to expose it to him again if there's bacteria
lurking
> in
> > the filter.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18003 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish
That sounds a lot less harmful...and a lot cheaper :-) Any potential impact
on scale-less fish that anyone is aware of?
Carmen


----- Original Message -----
From: chris topher
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Erythromycin and Clown loaches/catfish


if it is indeed cyano bacteria the best way to
control/kill it is hydrogen peroxide, it's an
overnight miracle...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18004 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Arg! Why do have aquariums!?!? :-/
I get distracted rather easily...
A little while ago, I started to change the yeast mixture in the little CO2 system that I have set up on my 16g tank (upstairs)...then I decided to have a quick peek at my email (downstairs). The responses were intriguing and I started to dig around on the net a bit regarding hydrogen peroxide and algae...
Then I start hearing drip...drip...drip... Eek...there is water leaking through the vent and ceiling into the downstairs bathroom!!! We've had a minor leaky pipe in the kitchen upstairs that we haven't gotten around to fixing and I figure it's blown up or something! So I run upstairs...hmmm...kitchen looks fine...go to the room where my 16g is and it's almost 1/2 empty...I had forgotten to pull the airline above water level when I removed the yeast reservoir and the water had siphoned out...through the cabinet, through the carpet and through the floor... Geez I hope it dries out without damage... it's one thing when damage is unavoidable but when it's caused by an idiot mistake...

Calm blue sea...calm blue sea...happy place....

Carmen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18005 From: Aaron Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: any crustacean owners here?
I have a large crawdad that does not bother the small fish at all,
they even steal food out of its mouth. But it does seem to kill off
the the other small crawdads.

I've been told crabs might eat any small fish it can catch. I would
think the Oscar and pleco would be safe with a small crab, it might
just be the crab that gets eaten by the Oscar.

Here is a site I've read -

http://www.shrimpcrabsandcrayfish.co.uk/

- it has some interesting tank set-up ideas for crabs.

I just "googled" - "red claw crabs" and got a lot of good care info

http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_pages/misc_critters/crabs.htm
http://wrongcrowd.com/staticpages/index.php?page=crab
http://www.geocities.com/elgecko1989/crab.html
http://www.petco.com/caresheets/fish/Generic_Crabs.pdf
http://www.centralpets.com/animals/fish/freshwater_inverts/fwi4673.ht
ml
there other kinds of freshwater crabs too including fiddlers

Hope that helps,
Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "littlenloud" <littlenloud@...>
wrote:
>
> I would like to get a small crab, but do not want any problems
with crab and fish, or vice versa. Does anyone know what the ideal
fish are to have with crabs? I have an oscar and pleco in 55 gal.
tank and a goldfish in the smaller 10 gal. one.
>
> thanks,
>
> Nora
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18006 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: Re: [Norton AntiSpam] [AquaticLife] Re: any crustacean owners here?
On the cichlid forum I frequent, anything that molts is eaten by the fish at
that time. So I would not combine with the oscar.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Aaron
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 7:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [AquaticLife] Re: any crustacean owners here?



I have a large crawdad that does not bother the small fish at all,
they even steal food out of its mouth. But it does seem to kill off
the the other small crawdads.

I've been told crabs might eat any small fish it can catch. I would
think the Oscar and pleco would be safe with a small crab, it might
just be the crab that gets eaten by the Oscar.

Here is a site I've read -

http://www.shrimpcr <http://www.shrimpcrabsandcrayfish.co.uk/>
absandcrayfish.co.uk/

- it has some interesting tank set-up ideas for crabs.

I just "googled" - "red claw crabs" and got a lot of good care info

http://www.aquarium
<http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_pages/misc_critters/crabs.htm>
fish.net/catalog_pages/misc_critters/crabs.htm
http://wrongcrowd. <http://wrongcrowd.com/staticpages/index.php?page=crab>
com/staticpages/index.php?page=crab
http://www.geocitie <http://www.geocities.com/elgecko1989/crab.html>
s.com/elgecko1989/crab.html
http://www.petco. <http://www.petco.com/caresheets/fish/Generic_Crabs.pdf>
com/caresheets/fish/Generic_Crabs.pdf
http://www.centralp
<http://www.centralpets.com/animals/fish/freshwater_inverts/fwi4673.ht>
ets.com/animals/fish/freshwater_inverts/fwi4673.ht
ml
there other kinds of freshwater crabs too including fiddlers

Hope that helps,
Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"littlenloud" <littlenloud@...>
wrote:
>
> I would like to get a small crab, but do not want any problems
with crab and fish, or vice versa. Does anyone know what the ideal
fish are to have with crabs? I have an oscar and pleco in 55 gal.
tank and a goldfish in the smaller 10 gal. one.
>
> thanks,
>
> Nora
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18007 From: littlenloud Date: 8/12/2006
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [AquaticLife] Re: any crustacean owners here?
guess i dont' want him in the oscar tank! thanks guys!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> On the cichlid forum I frequent, anything that molts is eaten by
the fish at
> that time. So I would not combine with the oscar.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Aaron
> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 7:44 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [AquaticLife] Re: any crustacean owners
here?
>
>
>
> I have a large crawdad that does not bother the small fish at all,
> they even steal food out of its mouth. But it does seem to kill off
> the the other small crawdads.
>
> I've been told crabs might eat any small fish it can catch. I would
> think the Oscar and pleco would be safe with a small crab, it might
> just be the crab that gets eaten by the Oscar.
>
> Here is a site I've read -
>
> http://www.shrimpcr <http://www.shrimpcrabsandcrayfish.co.uk/>
> absandcrayfish.co.uk/
>
> - it has some interesting tank set-up ideas for crabs.
>
> I just "googled" - "red claw crabs" and got a lot of good care info
>
> http://www.aquarium
> <http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_pages/misc_critters/crabs.htm>
> fish.net/catalog_pages/misc_critters/crabs.htm
> http://wrongcrowd. <http://wrongcrowd.com/staticpages/index.php?
page=crab>
> com/staticpages/index.php?page=crab
> http://www.geocitie <http://www.geocities.com/elgecko1989/crab.html>
> s.com/elgecko1989/crab.html
> http://www.petco.
<http://www.petco.com/caresheets/fish/Generic_Crabs.pdf>
> com/caresheets/fish/Generic_Crabs.pdf
> http://www.centralp
>
<http://www.centralpets.com/animals/fish/freshwater_inverts/fwi4673.ht
>
> ets.com/animals/fish/freshwater_inverts/fwi4673.ht
> ml
> there other kinds of freshwater crabs too including fiddlers
>
> Hope that helps,
> Aaron
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> "littlenloud" <littlenloud@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I would like to get a small crab, but do not want any problems
> with crab and fish, or vice versa. Does anyone know what the ideal
> fish are to have with crabs? I have an oscar and pleco in 55 gal.
> tank and a goldfish in the smaller 10 gal. one.
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> > Nora
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18008 From: Mel Bowman Date: 8/13/2006
Subject: angelicus loach
Hi group,
I just joined, and I have a question about my angelicus loach. But
first, some background info on my tank (in case it will help):
My tank: 38 gallon, but probably has more like 30 gallons in it after
decorations, etc. I have a biowheel filter and an aerator. Good water
circulation. Water temperature = 76F, as for pH...i'm not really sure.
My test strips say 8.5, my chemical tests say 8.0, and my city
official tells me it should be between 6.8-7.2. My tank tests the same
as my tap water, so either there is something wrong with my testing
supplies (possible) or something is up with our water. City official
is actually stopping by on Monday to check for us. That said, all our
fish have been alive for over a year in the same water with no
complications sooo....who knows! Everyone gets tropical flake food and
also goldfish flake food, plus algae wafers and these little loach
pellets. I feed different foods at different times of the day based on
when each fish is most active. The tank has been running for just over
a year.

Right now I have my loach with a smaller fancy tail goldfish,
rubbernose pleco, and a small molly. I was told that this species of
loach is more peaceful and that so long as it has plenty of food and
places to hide...which it does...that it shouldnt become too overly
aggressive. It's been pretty shy so far but tonight I spent over an
hour watching him swim around and forage...very cool! I've only had
him about a week so it's nice to see him making himself at home.
Unfortunately, he chases the goldfish around quite a lot, and now that
I look closely I can see the very first signs of the tips of his tail
fin fraying. I rarely if ever see the loach during the day, and this
is the first time I've really been able to catch him actively swimming
around...and not just on the bottom of the tank either! Tomorrow we're
going to do a good water change in our 55 gallon outdoor pond and put
the goldfish in there - he'll be by himself so he can recover and swim
in a stress free environment...plus, all the mosquitoes he'll have to
eat!

I'm sad because I had hoped that everyone could live peacefully...at
least for a while. Does anyone know a reason why the loach might have
turned aggressive towards my goldfish? It doesn't bother the molly or
the pleco, at least not that I've seen.

I do realize that this is a bit of a strange combination to have in
one tank...I assure you that it was only going to be temporary to
begin with!

Thanks for your help,
Mel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18009 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: angelicus loach
Mel,



Fancy Goldfish are very vulnerable to attacks from almost any other most
peaceful fish. Loaches even though many are peaceful are also capable of
inflicting a lot of damage to most other fish… goldfish is just a helpless
pray for it even if the goldfish is 10 times the size of the loach.



You may have to make a choice here as to what do you want to keep? You can
either keep goldfish or you can keep the loach… both together may not go for
very long and you may one morning find a completely stripped goldfish trying
to swim in the water.



Goldfish are also cold water fish so 76F is slightly higher for its
requirements.



The Molly if is a female should be ok with the goldfish but if it is a male,
it will also one day learn to harass the poor fish.



The only loaches you can have with goldfish are the likes of weather loaches
but they also in a small tank may cause some problem.



Loaches also like to be in groups rather then single and when in groups of 3
or more, they will tend to come out more into the open instead of hiding
behind ornaments. MY 3x clown loaches are always on the front and also hand
feed.



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Mel Bowman
Sent: 14 August 2006 04:38
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] angelicus loach



Hi group,
I just joined, and I have a question about my angelicus loach. But
first, some background info on my tank (in case it will help):
My tank: 38 gallon, but probably has more like 30 gallons in it after
decorations, etc. I have a biowheel filter and an aerator. Good water
circulation. Water temperature = 76F, as for pH...i'm not really sure.
My test strips say 8.5, my chemical tests say 8.0, and my city
official tells me it should be between 6.8-7.2. My tank tests the same
as my tap water, so either there is something wrong with my testing
supplies (possible) or something is up with our water. City official
is actually stopping by on Monday to check for us. That said, all our
fish have been alive for over a year in the same water with no
complications sooo....who knows! Everyone gets tropical flake food and
also goldfish flake food, plus algae wafers and these little loach
pellets. I feed different foods at different times of the day based on
when each fish is most active. The tank has been running for just over
a year.

Right now I have my loach with a smaller fancy tail goldfish,
rubbernose pleco, and a small molly. I was told that this species of
loach is more peaceful and that so long as it has plenty of food and
places to hide...which it does...that it shouldnt become too overly
aggressive. It's been pretty shy so far but tonight I spent over an
hour watching him swim around and forage...very cool! I've only had
him about a week so it's nice to see him making himself at home.
Unfortunately, he chases the goldfish around quite a lot, and now that
I look closely I can see the very first signs of the tips of his tail
fin fraying. I rarely if ever see the loach during the day, and this
is the first time I've really been able to catch him actively swimming
around...and not just on the bottom of the tank either! Tomorrow we're
going to do a good water change in our 55 gallon outdoor pond and put
the goldfish in there - he'll be by himself so he can recover and swim
in a stress free environment...plus, all the mosquitoes he'll have to
eat!

I'm sad because I had hoped that everyone could live peacefully...at
least for a while. Does anyone know a reason why the loach might have
turned aggressive towards my goldfish? It doesn't bother the molly or
the pleco, at least not that I've seen.

I do realize that this is a bit of a strange combination to have in
one tank...I assure you that it was only going to be temporary to
begin with!

Thanks for your help,
Mel





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18010 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Hi all , bouught 40 gal at yard sale couple weeks ago, glass is real
cloudy, tried vineager didn't help thenb tried vineager and salt ,
still unable to get it clear....any suggestions...plez let me
know...thnks rick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18011 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
you can try a little bleach just let it air dry to get rid of the bleach also can you declorinizers too

chicagobears2010 <chicagobears2010@...> wrote: Hi all , bouught 40 gal at yard sale couple weeks ago, glass is real
cloudy, tried vineager didn't help thenb tried vineager and salt ,
still unable to get it clear....any suggestions...plez let me
know...thnks rick






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18012 From: Darlene Charlson Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Try CLR, but must rinse real well and let completely dry.

Darlene Uplinger-Charlson
God Bless You.
http://www.myspace.com/darlene5272




From: "chicagobears2010" <chicagobears2010@...>
Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 18:15:46 -0000

Hi all , bouught 40 gal at yard sale couple weeks ago, glass is real
cloudy, tried vineager didn't help thenb tried vineager and salt ,
still unable to get it clear....any suggestions...plez let me
know...thnks rick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18013 From: Johnmackle Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Help with identifying a creature.
Help! I posted some pictures under the title "Is this a Nudibrach"?
It doesnt swim, but crawls around the tank, mostly at night. I'm told
it came from the Caribean. I havent found any pictures of
nuidbranch's that look anything like this.

Any ideas?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18014 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: Help with identifying a creature.
isnt that a bristle worm?

Johnmackle <johnmackle@...> wrote: Help! I posted some pictures under the title "Is this a Nudibrach"?
It doesnt swim, but crawls around the tank, mostly at night. I'm told
it came from the Caribean. I havent found any pictures of
nuidbranch's that look anything like this.

Any ideas?






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18015 From: Joseph Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: for the person with the pic identification
http://www.homereef.com/reference/bristle.html

this might help you out on getting it out.
The bottom shows it is a bristle worm.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-04/rs/index.php
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18016 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: Help with identifying a creature.
i'm not an expert by any means but to me it looks more like some sort of bad worm.

Johnmackle <johnmackle@...> wrote: Help! I posted some pictures under the title "Is this a Nudibrach"?
It doesnt swim, but crawls around the tank, mostly at night. I'm told
it came from the Caribean. I havent found any pictures of
nuidbranch's that look anything like this.

Any ideas?






Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18017 From: Mel Bowman Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: angelicus loach
I'd love to have 3 but at $20 each I wanted to make sure I could
successfully keep one before adding more! The goldfish is happily in
the pond and the tank is peaceful again.

Mel

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nimish Mathur" <nimmat4@...>
wrote:
>
> Mel,

> Loaches also like to be in groups rather then single and when in
groups of 3
> or more, they will tend to come out more into the open instead of
hiding
> behind ornaments. MY 3x clown loaches are always on the front and
also hand
> feed.
>
>
>
> Nim
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18018 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Clown knife fish
I have had my Clown Knife Fish for almost 2 weeks now and I could really use
some good info on everything about them. I need some input. If anyone knows
anything, please help.
Thanks..

karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18019 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/14/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
Karen,

Have you kept any predatory fish before? How big is the knife and what tank
& inhabitants are in there with it? You must compliment your clown knife
with some live food every now and then and many times they can be a pain to
feed with non live food.

Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: 15 August 2006 06:06
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish



I have had my Clown Knife Fish for almost 2 weeks now and I could really use

some good info on everything about them. I need some input. If anyone knows
anything, please help.
Thanks..

karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18020 From: Johnmackle Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: for the person with the pic identification
Thanks! it appears to be a "Hermodice carunculata, is a fireworm
species commonly found in the Caribbean, although other species in
the same genus are found throughout the tropics. It is the only
potential "problem" fireworm in aquaria because it eats stony corals
and gorgonians in its natural habitat, but may also prey on Indo-
Pacific soft corals in the aquarium."

I'll watch it closely to see if it harms anything. Already one of
my coral banded shrimps has been killed mysteriously.

Thanks again for the help.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joseph" <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
>
> http://www.homereef.com/reference/bristle.html
>
> this might help you out on getting it out.
> The bottom shows it is a bristle worm.
>
> http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-04/rs/index.php
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18021 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Mbuna Tank
Nim, do you still have your Mbuna tank? Any updated pictures?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish



Karen,

Have you kept any predatory fish before? How big is the knife and what tank
& inhabitants are in there with it? You must compliment your clown knife
with some live food every now and then and many times they can be a pain to
feed with non live food.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@ <mailto:Morganawolf1%40aol.com> aol.com
Sent: 15 August 2006 06:06
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish

I have had my Clown Knife Fish for almost 2 weeks now and I could really use

some good info on everything about them. I need some input. If anyone knows
anything, please help.
Thanks..

karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18022 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Mbuna Tank
Nopes :-( I gave up. It did go on very well until the Alfa male (most
dominant one) decided to jump out during a water change and the entire tank
went belly up after that. Everyone just wanted to kill each other and
replacing the aggressive ones or reducing their numbers did not help. I was
eventually left with 4 females of libidochromis hongi and caruleus. Decided
to convert that tank into an open theme walstad based concept that's doing
pretty well at the moment.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: 15 August 2006 10:59
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Mbuna Tank



Nim, do you still have your Mbuna tank? Any updated pictures?

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish

Karen,

Have you kept any predatory fish before? How big is the knife and what tank
& inhabitants are in there with it? You must compliment your clown knife
with some live food every now and then and many times they can be a pain to
feed with non live food.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@ <mailto:Morganawolf1%40aol.com> aol.com
Sent: 15 August 2006 06:06
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish

I have had my Clown Knife Fish for almost 2 weeks now and I could really use

some good info on everything about them. I need some input. If anyone knows
anything, please help.
Thanks..

karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18023 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
Right now he is in my 29 with my Angel and 3 gouramis. I will be switching
him to a 55 to share with a plecos. Right now he is only 2 1/2 inches. really
small.
I have been feeding everyone in this tank bloodworms, brine shrimp. I have
put a small portion of beef heart and silver sides in with him but, I don't see
him eating it. Also, I have tried krill with no success. Perhaps I should be
feeding him at night. Or I am just not feeding him right. I read that they
don't require light at all. Outside room light is bright enough.
I really like this guy. he is really neat. When I switch him to a 55( of
course until he out grows it) I have to pay mind to objects that are smooth and
rounded. Not jagged or sharp edged.
What should I be feeding this guy? What am I doing wrong?

karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18024 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
55g will eventually be too small for him. But to start with, that's fine.

They are nocturnal fish so will be on the prowl in the night and tend to
hide during the day. Having a darker tank will make them come out more often
and they may be a bit more visible then in a brightly lit tank.



Try feeding him larger bloodworms and ideally feed them during the night
about 20 mins after lights are off. How big are the angels? Do you think you
can feed large lobe worms or earth worms without the angels pecking at them?
If angels are bigger then 2" then they will take the worms before the clown
even gets a chance.



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: 15 August 2006 13:01
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish



Right now he is in my 29 with my Angel and 3 gouramis. I will be switching
him to a 55 to share with a plecos. Right now he is only 2 1/2 inches.
really
small.
I have been feeding everyone in this tank bloodworms, brine shrimp. I have
put a small portion of beef heart and silver sides in with him but, I don't
see
him eating it. Also, I have tried krill with no success. Perhaps I should be

feeding him at night. Or I am just not feeding him right. I read that they
don't require light at all. Outside room light is bright enough.
I really like this guy. he is really neat. When I switch him to a 55( of
course until he out grows it) I have to pay mind to objects that are smooth
and
rounded. Not jagged or sharp edged.
What should I be feeding this guy? What am I doing wrong?

karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18025 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Mbuna Tank
I've had a 38G running for eight months now, and I'm starting a 125 this
Friday. I'm hooked! When the 38G is vacated, I'm going to put in Tangs.
Your mbuna tank inspired me, thanks!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 6:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Mbuna Tank



Nopes :-( I gave up. It did go on very well until the Alfa male (most
dominant one) decided to jump out during a water change and the entire tank
went belly up after that. Everyone just wanted to kill each other and
replacing the aggressive ones or reducing their numbers did not help. I was
eventually left with 4 females of libidochromis hongi and caruleus. Decided
to convert that tank into an open theme walstad based concept that's doing
pretty well at the moment.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: 15 August 2006 10:59
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Mbuna Tank

Nim, do you still have your Mbuna tank? Any updated pictures?

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish

Karen,

Have you kept any predatory fish before? How big is the knife and what tank
& inhabitants are in there with it? You must compliment your clown knife
with some live food every now and then and many times they can be a pain to
feed with non live food.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@ <mailto:Morganawolf1%40aol.com> aol.com
Sent: 15 August 2006 06:06
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish

I have had my Clown Knife Fish for almost 2 weeks now and I could really use

some good info on everything about them. I need some input. If anyone knows
anything, please help.
Thanks..

karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18026 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
I will get my hands on the bloodworms and I will get them into his body. My
Angel listens pretty well when I tell him to scoot.What are lobe worms?

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18027 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
Use a calcium and lime remover soak. Then after you've rinsed it out
thoroughly, soak it again with strong vinegar to get rid of any
residual chemical trace.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18028 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Mbuna Tank
Thats good Donna :-) I don't have time to maintain them at the moment but
once I move house (should be in the next 6-7 months) I will be setting up a
nice tang tank myself ;)

I personally feel that tangs have much more attitude and character then
mbunas. Only thing exciting about the mbunas is to watch the hierarchy and
also their mouth brooding capabilities (which is awesome) but then watching
nuclear families etc. in tangs is equally inspiring.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: 15 August 2006 13:38
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Mbuna Tank



I've had a 38G running for eight months now, and I'm starting a 125 this
Friday. I'm hooked! When the 38G is vacated, I'm going to put in Tangs.
Your mbuna tank inspired me, thanks!

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 6:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Mbuna Tank

Nopes :-( I gave up. It did go on very well until the Alfa male (most
dominant one) decided to jump out during a water change and the entire tank
went belly up after that. Everyone just wanted to kill each other and
replacing the aggressive ones or reducing their numbers did not help. I was
eventually left with 4 females of libidochromis hongi and caruleus. Decided
to convert that tank into an open theme walstad based concept that's doing
pretty well at the moment.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: 15 August 2006 10:59
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Mbuna Tank

Nim, do you still have your Mbuna tank? Any updated pictures?

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish

Karen,

Have you kept any predatory fish before? How big is the knife and what tank
& inhabitants are in there with it? You must compliment your clown knife
with some live food every now and then and many times they can be a pain to
feed with non live food.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@ <mailto:Morganawolf1%40aol.com> aol.com
Sent: 15 August 2006 06:06
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish

I have had my Clown Knife Fish for almost 2 weeks now and I could really use

some good info on everything about them. I need some input. If anyone knows
anything, please help.
Thanks..

karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18029 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Mbuna Tank
I'm easy.I like the mbuna colors. I have a tank of new Demasoni fry right
now, too cute.



I'm going for Calvus, Julies and Caudopuntatus in the 38.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Mbuna Tank



Thats good Donna :-) I don't have time to maintain them at the moment but
once I move house (should be in the next 6-7 months) I will be setting up a
nice tang tank myself ;)

I personally feel that tangs have much more attitude and character then
mbunas. Only thing exciting about the mbunas is to watch the hierarchy and
also their mouth brooding capabilities (which is awesome) but then watching
nuclear families etc. in tangs is equally inspiring.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: 15 August 2006 13:38
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Mbuna Tank

I've had a 38G running for eight months now, and I'm starting a 125 this
Friday. I'm hooked! When the 38G is vacated, I'm going to put in Tangs.
Your mbuna tank inspired me, thanks!

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 6:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Mbuna Tank

Nopes :-( I gave up. It did go on very well until the Alfa male (most
dominant one) decided to jump out during a water change and the entire tank
went belly up after that. Everyone just wanted to kill each other and
replacing the aggressive ones or reducing their numbers did not help. I was
eventually left with 4 females of libidochromis hongi and caruleus. Decided
to convert that tank into an open theme walstad based concept that's doing
pretty well at the moment.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: 15 August 2006 10:59
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Mbuna Tank

Nim, do you still have your Mbuna tank? Any updated pictures?

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Nimish Mathur
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish

Karen,

Have you kept any predatory fish before? How big is the knife and what tank
& inhabitants are in there with it? You must compliment your clown knife
with some live food every now and then and many times they can be a pain to
feed with non live food.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@ <mailto:Morganawolf1%40aol.com> aol.com
Sent: 15 August 2006 06:06
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish

I have had my Clown Knife Fish for almost 2 weeks now and I could really use

some good info on everything about them. I need some input. If anyone knows
anything, please help.
Thanks..

karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18030 From: chris topher Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
try filling it and see if it still looks coudy with
water in it...

sometimes they can be cloudy empty but not so much
full...

woody

--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> you can try a little bleach just let it air dry to
> get rid of the bleach also can you declorinizers too
>
> chicagobears2010 <chicagobears2010@...> wrote:
> Hi all , bouught 40 gal at yard sale couple
> weeks ago, glass is real
> cloudy, tried vineager didn't help thenb tried
> vineager and salt ,
> still unable to get it clear....any
> suggestions...plez let me
> know...thnks rick
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new
> Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18031 From: stevenshapson Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
My pond is about 24x24 feet with some koi and lots of plants. It is a
true water garden. I don't want to clutter it up with silly toys, but
seeing fog roll over the surface sort of intrigues me. Does anyone out
there use such a device to create fog over the surface of the pond? And
if so, what model? Will the entire surface of the pond experience fog,
or just near the fogger itself? Can the fogger be hidden in a corner
and still have fog like effect drift over the pond surface?

secondly, can anyone suggest the best way and model to keep a hole in
the ice during the winter? I want something that is very low wattage,
say 100 watts to keep a hole thawed in the ice.

Please help. Thanks, Steve, wisconsin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18032 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
Steve for the hole you don't need wattage, you need air bubble (they keep
the gate of the water channel in the St-Lawrence river unfroze in winter
with big compressor and air bubble.) When you have ice you drill a hole ,
put a pvc pipe and a air diffuser a the lower end of the pipe, and you
reduce the water level to make a air space between the ice and the water

How deep is your pound, and how cold is your place in Winter ?








-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de stevenshapson
Envoyé : 15 août, 2006 13:37
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Foggers. Which one to obtain?

My pond is about 24x24 feet with some koi and lots of plants. It is a
true water garden. I don't want to clutter it up with silly toys, but
seeing fog roll over the surface sort of intrigues me. Does anyone out
there use such a device to create fog over the surface of the pond? And
if so, what model? Will the entire surface of the pond experience fog,
or just near the fogger itself? Can the fogger be hidden in a corner
and still have fog like effect drift over the pond surface?

secondly, can anyone suggest the best way and model to keep a hole in
the ice during the winter? I want something that is very low wattage,
say 100 watts to keep a hole thawed in the ice.

Please help. Thanks, Steve, wisconsin






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18033 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
2½ inch, soon it will be 2½ feet. I will always remember the one in my LFS
many year ago, I always want to buy it ,



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Nimish Mathur
Envoyé : 15 août, 2006 08:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish

55g will eventually be too small for him. But to start with, that's fine.

They are nocturnal fish so will be on the prowl in the night and tend to
hide during the day. Having a darker tank will make them come out more often
and they may be a bit more visible then in a brightly lit tank.



Try feeding him larger bloodworms and ideally feed them during the night
about 20 mins after lights are off. How big are the angels? Do you think you
can feed large lobe worms or earth worms without the angels pecking at them?
If angels are bigger then 2" then they will take the worms before the clown
even gets a chance.



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: 15 August 2006 13:01
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Clown knife fish



Right now he is in my 29 with my Angel and 3 gouramis. I will be switching
him to a 55 to share with a plecos. Right now he is only 2 1/2 inches.
really
small.
I have been feeding everyone in this tank bloodworms, brine shrimp. I have
put a small portion of beef heart and silver sides in with him but, I don't
see
him eating it. Also, I have tried krill with no success. Perhaps I should be

feeding him at night. Or I am just not feeding him right. I read that they
don't require light at all. Outside room light is bright enough.
I really like this guy. he is really neat. When I switch him to a 55( of
course until he out grows it) I have to pay mind to objects that are smooth
and
rounded. Not jagged or sharp edged.
What should I be feeding this guy? What am I doing wrong?

karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18034 From: Billie Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Ich
Does anyone have any advice for treating freshwater fish that have ich?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18035 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Ich
your going to have to raise the temp to 80 and if you have no invertibrates you can use copperbased meds like aquai-sol.

Billie <billieschueman@...> wrote: Does anyone have any advice for treating freshwater fish that have ich?






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18036 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Clown knife fish
lolololololol. I will be getting the 55 on the 20th of this month.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18037 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Were is the fish variety ?
Hello all, I just make a turn in Montreal today and ask all the
biggest fish store if they buy fish from local breeder, all of them
said yes except Big Al, That's make me thing one thing, that's not
good at all, the local breeder always breed the same easy fish, so the
fish store who like to save a buck will buy always the same fish, no
variety in their tank, actually I was surprise than only Big Al have
some very nice variety of wild catch fish. I have nothing against mom
and pop small breeder, but it's not good for the wild and genius
fish collector.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18038 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Hello Gerard,

Yes I can see where that is a problem. I am fortunate to live in an area where the hobbiests go out of there way to locate and purchase fish from all over the country (U.S.A.) or import directly from different parts of the world. Some of the local clubs award points for breeding fish previously not bred as well as donating fish they have bred for points and awards. This really brings in a lot of variety to my region and in turn some stores buy these fish and make them available to the general public.

I assume BigAls buys from Florida Fish Farms or overseas. My local wholesaler that sells to most of the areas mom and pop stores also buys from the hobbiest breeder so it does help the local fish keeper. I am not knocking the Florida Fish farmers as many of them do go to the trouble of importing rare fish and selling them to stores or direct to the public as well as trying to breed the imported stock for future sales.




-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Were is the fish variety ?


Hello all, I just make a turn in Montreal today and ask all the
biggest fish store if they buy fish from local breeder, all of them
said yes except Big Al, That's make me thing one thing, that's not
good at all, the local breeder always breed the same easy fish, so the
fish store who like to save a buck will buy always the same fish, no
variety in their tank, actually I was surprise than only Big Al have
some very nice variety of wild catch fish. I have nothing against mom
and pop small breeder, but it's not good for the wild and genius
fish collector.

Gerard


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18039 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Gerard.
I forgot to mention.
Living in Canada you can purchase fish from http://www.belowwater.com/ without having to pay for expensive cross border shipping like we have to down here in the states. I have a friend that buys fish from there and the expense of getting the items across the border makes it prohibitive.

Worth a look.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Were is the fish variety ?


Hello all, I just make a turn in Montreal today and ask all the
biggest fish store if they buy fish from local breeder, all of them
said yes except Big Al, That's make me thing one thing, that's not
good at all, the local breeder always breed the same easy fish, so the
fish store who like to save a buck will buy always the same fish, no
variety in their tank, actually I was surprise than only Big Al have
some very nice variety of wild catch fish. I have nothing against mom
and pop small breeder, but it's not good for the wild and genius
fish collector.

Gerard

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7New Photos
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18040 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Thanks Mike of course I know belowwater , they are in Montréal, so no need
for shipment :)

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Deenerz@...
Envoyé : 15 août, 2006 19:30
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Were is the fish variety ?

Gerard.
I forgot to mention.
Living in Canada you can purchase fish from http://www.belowwater.com/
without having to pay for expensive cross border shipping like we have to
down here in the states. I have a friend that buys fish from there and the
expense of getting the items across the border makes it prohibitive.

Worth a look.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Were is the fish variety ?


Hello all, I just make a turn in Montreal today and ask all the
biggest fish store if they buy fish from local breeder, all of them
said yes except Big Al, That's make me thing one thing, that's not
good at all, the local breeder always breed the same easy fish, so the
fish store who like to save a buck will buy always the same fish, no
variety in their tank, actually I was surprise than only Big Al have
some very nice variety of wild catch fish. I have nothing against mom
and pop small breeder, but it's not good for the wild and genius
fish collector.

Gerard

Recent Activity
28New Members
7New Photos
11New Links
Visit Your Group
Give Back
Yahoo! for Good
Get inspired
by a good cause.
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easy 1-click access
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in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others..

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IM. All on demand. Always Free.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18041 From: Billie Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Ich
We've been using a med called Coppersafe, however, we don't know how
often to use it. The directions on the bottle simply state that it
is good for a month, but one treatment over a months period time
just doesn't sound reasonable.

I've looked through various websites and they all suggest doing a
10% water change daily and adding the copper safe to the replacement
water. Do you think this is the way to go? Is a 10% water change
DAILY really necessary? I would think that doing frequent water
changes would stress my fish out and make ich worse.
Thanks for your help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18042 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Oh you are a lucky man.
Oliver brings in some great fish.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Were is the fish variety ?


Thanks Mike of course I know belowwater , they are in Montréal, so no need
for shipment :)

Gerard

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18043 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
Not so lucky for other thing, I need to prepare a 75 gal in the rush, (for
accommodate 6 adults 6" silver dollar) and no way to find bio spira in
Montreal I use gravel and water from other aquarium, but I can't remove
filter media from my other tank now. Hopefully my fish room will be ready
soon , with hope to have spare tank already prepare ( is it possible to have
spare empty tank ready, without fish...........no )





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Deenerz@...
Envoyé : 15 août, 2006 20:17
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Were is the fish variety ?

Oh you are a lucky man.
Oliver brings in some great fish.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: dataxpert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Were is the fish variety ?


Thanks Mike of course I know belowwater , they are in Montréal, so no need
for shipment :)

Gerard

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easy 1-click access
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Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others..

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IM. All on demand. Always Free.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
`..><((((>.`..`.><((((> .`.. , .`..><((((>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<((((><.`..`.<((((><.`.. , .`..<((((><`..
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18044 From: big_george_lake Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
I want to buy 5-6 speciments of
Palythoa caribaeorum. Do any of you
know a website selling them or have any to sell
yourself?
Thanks!
BGL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18045 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
is there a common name to this species?

big_george_lake <big_george_lake@...> wrote: I want to buy 5-6 speciments of
Palythoa caribaeorum. Do any of you
know a website selling them or have any to sell
yourself?
Thanks!
BGL






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18046 From: chris topher Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Ich
i use rid-ich, at half the recommended dose...

woody


--- Billie <billieschueman@...> wrote:

> We've been using a med called Coppersafe, however,
> we don't know how
> often to use it. The directions on the bottle
> simply state that it
> is good for a month, but one treatment over a months
> period time
> just doesn't sound reasonable.
>
> I've looked through various websites and they all
> suggest doing a
> 10% water change daily and adding the copper safe to
> the replacement
> water. Do you think this is the way to go? Is a
> 10% water change
> DAILY really necessary? I would think that doing
> frequent water
> changes would stress my fish out and make ich worse.
> Thanks for your help
>
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18047 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
It's a coral

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 15 août, 2006 21:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?

is there a common name to this species?

big_george_lake <big_george_lake@...> wrote: I want to buy
5-6 speciments of
Palythoa caribaeorum. Do any of you
know a website selling them or have any to sell
yourself?
Thanks!
BGL






---------------------------------
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rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18048 From: Mark Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?/Pond Deicers
Don't use air to keep the pond from freezing over!!!! The whole
idea behind wintering your fish in the pond is that different strata
of temperature are created naturally, and the fish will stay in the
warmest water at the bottom of the pond. If you do anything that
causes circulation, like run airstones or leave a pump running, the
water will circulate and the zones won't form. Your whole pond will
be colder and you're more likely to lose your fish. 100 heater
probably isn't big enough, though that depends on where you live and
how severe the winters are. Most of the floating deicers are 1000-
1500 watts and will keep a small hole open in the ice, thus allowing
an exchange of gasses which is beneficial to the fish and most other
life in the pond.

Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with foggers in a pond,
but how the effect will look will be largely dependent on the wind.
Mark

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Steve for the hole you don't need wattage, you need air bubble
(they keep
> the gate of the water channel in the St-Lawrence river unfroze in
winter
> with big compressor and air bubble.) When you have ice you
drill a hole ,
> put a pvc pipe and a air diffuser a the lower end of the pipe, and
you
> reduce the water level to make a air space between the ice and the
water
>




> secondly, can anyone suggest the best way and model to keep a hole
in
> the ice during the winter? I want something that is very low
wattage,
> say 100 watts to keep a hole thawed in the ice.
>
> Please help. Thanks, Steve, wisconsin
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18049 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?/Pond Deicers
Sorry Mark, It's not the pond I suggest to not freeze , it's a pipe , You
don't put the air stone in the bottom of the pond you put it at the lower
end of the pipe who is at the surface, everyone use this technique here at
below -30'C and even below 40'c that's make below 40' F also

For the strata over 4'c , the more hot the water the less dense it is, so
hot water float, ( hot water on top cold water in bottom,) but , and it's
here the but, at 4'c the water is at is most heavy, and below 4'c it come
more light, it is why the water at the bottom is at 4'c and on top near 0'c
but I think you need at least 7 feet of water to keep 4'c I will measure
it this winter

See the table here

http://www.aqualab.ca/density.htm


Bottom line, air is cheaper and more efficient than heat.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18050 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
well i see that they see the species on www.liveaquaria.com I also look over www.saltwaterfish.com and www.etropicals.com


Gerard gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
It's a coral

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 15 août, 2006 21:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?

is there a common name to this species?

big_george_lake <big_george_lake@...> wrote: I want to buy
5-6 speciments of
Palythoa caribaeorum. Do any of you
know a website selling them or have any to sell
yourself?
Thanks!
BGL


---------------------------------
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rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18051 From: aclaar877 Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Tetras Spawn; No Fry
I've been spawning glowlight tetras successfully using a conditioning
tank and then moving them to softer water. No problem getting a
spawn; they've done it four times. But, only the first spawn resulted
in any fry, and even then, it was only about ten (one female w/two
males). Are there any techniques to make sure more of the eggs are
fertilized and hatch? I'm afraid fungus got to some of the spawns and
ruined them completely. Has anyone used Methylene blue between
removing the parents and having the eggs hatch?

This time I'm soaking the tank with M. Blue and I'll re-boil my yarn
spawning mop, to see if that works. Other than that, it may have been
the live blackworms which I used the first time. Maybe frozen foods
aren't adequate for maximizing fertility.

Andy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18052 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
I haven't a clue for the fogger, but if you use heat to keep a hole in
the ice, you are going to need something in the range of 1500 watts,
unless, of course, you move south--much further south. Other methods,
such as using an air pump or circulating water, have their own problems
in that they mess with the natural stratification of water during the
winter.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of stevenshapson
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Foggers. Which one to obtain?

My pond is about 24x24 feet with some koi and lots of plants. It is a
true water garden. I don't want to clutter it up with silly toys, but
seeing fog roll over the surface sort of intrigues me. Does anyone out
there use such a device to create fog over the surface of the pond? And
if so, what model? Will the entire surface of the pond experience fog,
or just near the fogger itself? Can the fogger be hidden in a corner
and still have fog like effect drift over the pond surface?

secondly, can anyone suggest the best way and model to keep a hole in
the ice during the winter? I want something that is very low wattage,
say 100 watts to keep a hole thawed in the ice.

Please help. Thanks, Steve, wisconsin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18053 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Were is the fish variety ?
We are fortunate enough to have a couple of very good LFS in the area here, and while they do carry the bread and butter fish, they also carry a lot of other species and varieties of fish as well. And, if one is up for a day trip, there is always That Fish Place in Lancaster, PA.

I also know some of the breeders here, and they are not breeding common or easy to breed fish, though I am sure that there is a lot of that going on.

I think a lot depends upon the area one lives in. As someone else mentioned earlier, it does not hurt to have a number of clubs in the area offering points for breeding fish, along with awards for reaching certain levels.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Were is the fish variety ?

Hello all, I just make a turn in Montreal today and ask all the
biggest fish store if they buy fish from local breeder, all of them
said yes except Big Al, That's make me thing one thing, that's not
good at all, the local breeder always breed the same easy fish, so the
fish store who like to save a buck will buy always the same fish, no
variety in their tank, actually I was surprise than only Big Al have
some very nice variety of wild catch fish. I have nothing against mom
and pop small breeder, but it's not good for the wild and genius
fish collector.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18054 From: hank voss Date: 8/15/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Spawn; No Fry
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aclaar877" <aclaar877@...>
wrote:
>
> I've been spawning glowlight tetras successfully using a
conditioning
> tank and then moving them to softer water. No problem getting a
> spawn; they've done it four times. But, only the first spawn
resulted
> in any fry, and even then, it was only about ten (one female w/two
> males). Are there any techniques to make sure more of the eggs
are
> fertilized and hatch? I'm afraid fungus got to some of the spawns
and
============================
Andy:
First i would condition males and females seperatly so the
females can build up a good supply of eggs.Keeping the males away
from the females also make the males more active spawners(if your
wife was gone for 5 or 6 months what would be on your mind when she
returned?) Glowlites love to eat eggs when they done doing their
thing to save most of the eggs try using a mesh on the bottom of the
tank for the eggs to fall through marbles also work.They dont always
spawn in the mops,plants etc.





> ruined them completely. Has anyone used Methylene blue between
> removing the parents and having the eggs hatch?
>
> This time I'm soaking the tank with M. Blue and I'll re-boil my
yarn
> spawning mop, to see if that works. Other than that, it may have
been
Ive always used Meth.blue with good results also had good results
not using anything so take your pick.I would condition the fish in
the type of water that i was going to breed them in. I used to gang
breed them 2-3 females 5-7 males got quite a few young that way.



> the live blackworms which I used the first time. Maybe frozen
foods
> aren't adequate for maximizing fertility.
>
> Andy
Live food is very important in cond. the breeders brine
shrimp,tubifex,blackworms and mos. larv.Cond.them on live food for 2-
3 wks and you should see much better results.Dont forget the fry are
quite small and need infus. most of loss is due to the young
starving. Good luck Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18055 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
Read my other message about the air bubble

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 15 août, 2006 22:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Foggers. Which one to obtain?

I haven't a clue for the fogger, but if you use heat to keep a hole in
the ice, you are going to need something in the range of 1500 watts,
unless, of course, you move south--much further south. Other methods,
such as using an air pump or circulating water, have their own problems
in that they mess with the natural stratification of water during the
winter.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of stevenshapson
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Foggers. Which one to obtain?

My pond is about 24x24 feet with some koi and lots of plants. It is a
true water garden. I don't want to clutter it up with silly toys, but
seeing fog roll over the surface sort of intrigues me. Does anyone out
there use such a device to create fog over the surface of the pond? And
if so, what model? Will the entire surface of the pond experience fog,
or just near the fogger itself? Can the fogger be hidden in a corner
and still have fog like effect drift over the pond surface?

secondly, can anyone suggest the best way and model to keep a hole in
the ice during the winter? I want something that is very low wattage,
say 100 watts to keep a hole thawed in the ice.

Please help. Thanks, Steve, wisconsin



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18056 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
Steve ,Mark, I don't know if you have pound or live in Winter area, or
experience with them , or even read well my email (THE WORD IS MOVEMENT OF
AIR IN A PIPE AT THE SURFACE, not a air stone in the bottom) but here it
work the air bubble and no movement in the pound, I made a kick drawing,
Sorry if I insist, but you said it messy and play with strata when it's
not, I do it since 15 years in my 2 lakes and many pounds of my friend, the
movement of air is just in the pipe. The 1500 watts heater will cost 90$ a
month in electricity, and I'm not sure it will work in extreme cold place
like here. It will work in a small pound but not in a big one, the water
have a very high thermal coefficient, and don't forgot in the hole create by
the heater the cold water will always replace the hot one, density.

AIR PIPE WORK

http://www.aqualab.ca/Dictionary/pound.jpg


Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 15 août, 2006 22:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Foggers. Which one to obtain?

I haven't a clue for the fogger, but if you use heat to keep a hole in
the ice, you are going to need something in the range of 1500 watts,
unless, of course, you move south--much further south. Other methods,
such as using an air pump or circulating water, have their own problems
in that they mess with the natural stratification of water during the
winter.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of stevenshapson
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Foggers. Which one to obtain?

My pond is about 24x24 feet with some koi and lots of plants. It is a
true water garden. I don't want to clutter it up with silly toys, but
seeing fog roll over the surface sort of intrigues me. Does anyone out
there use such a device to create fog over the surface of the pond? And
if so, what model? Will the entire surface of the pond experience fog,
or just near the fogger itself? Can the fogger be hidden in a corner
and still have fog like effect drift over the pond surface?

secondly, can anyone suggest the best way and model to keep a hole in
the ice during the winter? I want something that is very low wattage,
say 100 watts to keep a hole thawed in the ice.

Please help. Thanks, Steve, wisconsin



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18057 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Spawn; No Fry
Do you have a good amount of tannins inthe water of your spawning
tank? Oak leaves, peat moss, blackwater extract all can help soften
the water and give you a nice amount of tannins in the water, which
will help combat fungus. Heck, even tea leaves help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18058 From: aclaar877 Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Spawn; No Fry
Yes, I do use some blackwater extract. Didn't know those items could
combat fungus; I eased of them a bit when spawning itself seemed so
easy.

Andy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Do you have a good amount of tannins inthe water of your spawning
> tank? Oak leaves, peat moss, blackwater extract all can help soften
> the water and give you a nice amount of tannins in the water, which
> will help combat fungus. Heck, even tea leaves help
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18059 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Question for those who maintain other aquariums
I am taking care of a schools aquarium and it makes me NUTS that I can
not see it every hour of the day like I do those at home. HOW can I
safely monitor this tank? For those that do this regurlarly, how often
do you check on the tanks? I had planned a once a week check-up but is
that enough? Especially for a newly established tank?
Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18060 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Anyone from Arkansas?
Is there anyone here from Little Rock,Arkansas or nearby?
Email me if so. Thanks! =)
5moores@...

~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18061 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Question for those who maintain other aquariums
I couldn't get into the specifics, but I guess if the classroom has a computer thats on the internet, you could rig a webcam pointed at the tank and watch it that way.


----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 1:18 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question for those who maintain other aquariums


I am taking care of a schools aquarium and it makes me NUTS that I can
not see it every hour of the day like I do those at home. HOW can I
safely monitor this tank? For those that do this regurlarly, how often
do you check on the tanks? I had planned a once a week check-up but is
that enough? Especially for a newly established tank?
Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18062 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Tetras Spawn; No Fry
It's not a complete fungal preventative, but in breeding bettas I
discovered a distinct relation to lack of tannins in the water to
increased fungal problems with eggs and fry. It's worth trying,
anyway. Cheap and easy to do. I use peat, mostly. I started trying
it when I remembered that using peat on top of my seedlings helps
prevent damp-off...and sure enough, it seemed to help with the egg
fungus, as well.

> Yes, I do use some blackwater extract. Didn't know those items could
> combat fungus; I eased of them a bit when spawning itself seemed so
> easy.
>
> Andy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18063 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Foggers. Which one to obtain?
Hi Steve (Wisconsin), Yes. foggers are made by several manufacturers.
One reliable company that produces them is Cal Pump (SKU #442923),
which has had good results with the effect; they also offer a flotation
device (LFLT) which suspends the fogger at just the right depth in the
water to give the best foggy appearance. On smaller ponds, they may
cover a good deal of the surface with "fog", but are not meant to
encompass such a large pond as your in this effect. Too, the amount of
residual fogging will depend on the amount of any breeze (or lack of)
on the water surface, will can affect the retention of the emission
dramatically. The fogger can be hidden in a corner but must be emersed
in water whether inside or immediately outside of the pond if this is
your plan -- one such location might be next to a waterfall.

While an area at the surface can be kept ice free during ice-up with
turbulence from either an air supply or smallest sized water pump
immediately below the surface, depending upon how you configure this,
such a set up may interfere with the temperature strata of the water if
it results in too much turbulence. You don't want to turn over the
water, having the colder water go to the bottom of the pond as it is
this stratum that the fish seek to hibernate in due to its being the
warmest area at that time of year.

Normally, as with air and most any other elements and compounds, the
heavier water always seeks the lowest level due to it being denser,
with the lighter, warmer water (air, etc.) rising due to it being less
dense. However, there is a law of physics that requires that at and
just before the temperature of water reaches the point of freezing,
that the colder water's molecules start expanding away from each other
and rise in the water column to solidify on the surface. Water at,
and slightly above freezing (0,C / 32,F) will always be at the
surface. A pond never freezes from the bottom, up. As more calories
are taken from this mass and the pond, as a whole, gets colder, the ice
is thickened from directly underneath itself, as that is now where the
coldest water is. At depth, and depending upon how deep you go, the
water will always be constantly warmer by a degree or two at the bottom
due to the earth underneath it continually giving up its heat
calories.

As you're probably aware of, the object of a pond heater is not to warm
the surface of the pond above freezing, but to create a small whole in
the ice to allow the noxious gases (hydrogen and methane) to escape
that would poison the fish if allowed to build up. By the way, keeping
a hole in the ice during winter is not meant to allow the transmission
of oxygen into the water either. Your first thoughts before freeze up
should be to cover the pond with leaf netting to prevent them from
falling in and rotting over the winter. Secondly, after leaf season,
you should try to clean the bottom of the pond of as much debris as you
can before freeze-up.

There are very good pond heaters available of very low (100 Watt)
wattage. The area of your pond may require (recommended) two such
units, especially in your Zone. These heaters are made by Thermo-Pond
and are quite efficient, since they are self-insulating, consisting of
a large hollow (heated air-filled) outer "donut" which is partially
covered and which is designed to keep a hole in the ice (of
approximately 8" in diameter) within this inner "donut", which is about
14" in diameter. There were some problems with this design heater
several years ago due to inadequate sealing of the unit resulting in
sinkings of them when water got into them, but they have been
redesigned and are most reliable now.

The other type of pond heaters of 1250 Watts or so are excellent units,
but because they are designed to maintain an ice-free area immediately
surrounding their outside diameter, they are not nearly as power
efficient as the much lower wattage heater due to the fact that there
is constantly colder water at the edge of its ice-free zone trying to
combat its effects; but they are quite reliable. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "stevenshapson" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> My pond is about 24x24 feet with some koi and lots of plants. It is a
> true water garden. I don't want to clutter it up with silly toys, but
> seeing fog roll over the surface sort of intrigues me. Does anyone out
> there use such a device to create fog over the surface of the pond?
And
> if so, what model? Will the entire surface of the pond experience fog,
> or just near the fogger itself? Can the fogger be hidden in a corner
> and still have fog like effect drift over the pond surface?
>
> secondly, can anyone suggest the best way and model to keep a hole in
> the ice during the winter? I want something that is very low wattage,
> say 100 watts to keep a hole thawed in the ice.
>
> Please help. Thanks, Steve, wisconsin
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18064 From: big_george_lake Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
actually, livequaria, saltwaterfish, and etropicals
do NOT list this particular species.
Anyone know another source?
BGL


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> well i see that they see the species on www.liveaquaria.com I also
look over www.saltwaterfish.com and www.etropicals.com
>
>
> Gerard gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
> It's a coral
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Joseph Reid
> Envoyé : 15 août, 2006 21:39
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
>
> is there a common name to this species?
>
> big_george_lake <big_george_lake@...> wrote: I want to buy
> 5-6 speciments of
> Palythoa caribaeorum. Do any of you
> know a website selling them or have any to sell
> yourself?
> Thanks!
> BGL
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone
call
> rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18065 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Re: Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
im sorry i did word that wrong when i meant just the species it meant this one.
sp. = species just a generic species like i think that explains it better.
http://liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=674

big_george_lake <big_george_lake@...> wrote:
actually, livequaria, saltwaterfish, and etropicals
do NOT list this particular species.
Anyone know another source?
BGL

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> well i see that they see the species on www.liveaquaria.com I also
look over www.saltwaterfish.com and www.etropicals.com
>
>
> Gerard gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
> It's a coral
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Joseph Reid
> Envoyé : 15 août, 2006 21:39
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Where buy Palythoa caribaeorum?
>
> is there a common name to this species?
>
> big_george_lake <big_george_lake@...> wrote: I want to buy
> 5-6 speciments of
> Palythoa caribaeorum. Do any of you
> know a website selling them or have any to sell
> yourself?
> Thanks!
> BGL
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone
call
> rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
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Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18066 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/16/2006
Subject: Help with Clown Knife Fish
A few days ago I had posted a question about my Clown Knife Fish. Feeding
was the issue, so, I bought Nightcrawlers, small mealworms and waxworms. I had
no success feeding him last night. Even when I turned the light out he swam
away from it as it wriggled. Tonight I will try again.
I have had him for about 2 weeks now. he must be eating something because he
is still alive. I drop in frozen gum drops of bloodworms, brine shrimp with
spirilina. Silversides as well. I also occasionally drop in a few krills about
a half inch long. What am I doing wrong?

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18067 From: rick linboom Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
this is ok to do?...I thought I shouldn't use harsh
chemicals on inside of tank..was afraid tey would harm
fish once I got the aquarium up and running




GO CUBS!
































__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18068 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: cleaning an old 40 gal tank
They will if they are not thoroughly washed out, thus the strong
vinegar soak afterwards.

> this is ok to do?...I thought I shouldn't use harsh
> chemicals on inside of tank..was afraid tey would harm
> fish once I got the aquarium up and running
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18069 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Help with Clown Knife Fish
when my husband had a clown knife he fed it only live food & it lived for years on that diet.

Morganawolf1@... wrote: A few days ago I had posted a question about my Clown Knife Fish. Feeding
was the issue, so, I bought Nightcrawlers, small mealworms and waxworms. I had
no success feeding him last night. Even when I turned the light out he swam
away from it as it wriggled. Tonight I will try again.
I have had him for about 2 weeks now. he must be eating something because he
is still alive. I drop in frozen gum drops of bloodworms, brine shrimp with
spirilina. Silversides as well. I also occasionally drop in a few krills about
a half inch long. What am I doing wrong?

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18070 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Help with Clown Knife Fish
What kind of live food?

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18071 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Crack in tank & driftwood question
1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline" crack
in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
repairable?

2. I am curing 3 pieces of driftwood. I check on it every other day or
so, it's outside. Each day it is of course brown water but the nastiest
looking white slimy stringy stuff is all over the place. It's floating
everywhere throughout the water and really gross. It's long, short,
thin, thick...very varied but all white and gooey looking. What is
this?

Many thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18072 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Raising PH
Does anyone have any tips on how to raise PH naturally? I am getting
readings of about 6.5-6.6. The fish I have need PH levels that differ from different
ranges. I want it at about 7.0 I tried the stuff by Aquarium Pharamacuticals
and it just isn't doing the job, and I would rather do it naturally.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18073 From: aclaar877 Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: what to do with green algea water?
I did the same thing in a 55g a few months ago--took up all the live
plants, trimmed, rearranged, the whole bit. I got green water that
just would not go away. I used a diatom filter several times, tried
darkness (but not quite long enough), as plants nearly died. I got
a UV sterilizer that fits inline my Rena filter tubing; it was
around $35 on Aquabid. That solves the problem completely. Simply
unplug it if you don't need it, and turn it on whenever green water
returns.


AC

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "eandtuta1924"
<eandtuta1924@...> wrote:
>
> Hi
> My 150 gallon tank is doing great, all fish are healthy and happy
but
> since Saturday when I "vaccumed" last time the water has got more
and
> more cloudy and greenish.
> I have 2 36 inch 196w daylight/actinic lights over the tank and
have
> lights on about 10 hours a day. I don't think I over feed the fish
but
> I've been giving them a lot of shrimp pellets lately. Does anyone
know
> what could be the cause and if there is any good way of getting
rid of
> the cloudiness and algea?
> thanks in advance
> Magdalena and the south American community
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18074 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
As to the 150 gallon tank with hairline crack. I would not use it, water weighs 8 pounds per gallon and with that kind of pressure, it most certainly would not be safe to use and if it was used, your taking a very serious chance and risk.

As to your driftwood, that sound ugly and nasty, I would not use it if it were mine. I have no idea of what the white stringy material is, but it isn't anything I would use I do not think.

Ivan
AquaMaze@...

----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 3:45 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question


1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline" crack
in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
repairable?

2. I am curing 3 pieces of driftwood. I check on it every other day or
so, it's outside. Each day it is of course brown water but the nastiest
looking white slimy stringy stuff is all over the place. It's floating
everywhere throughout the water and really gross. It's long, short,
thin, thick...very varied but all white and gooey looking. What is
this?

Many thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18075 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
The wood is still soaking so the next time I see this gunk I will take a
picture.
Gross.

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of aquamaze@...
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 4:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question



As to the 150 gallon tank with hairline crack. I would not use it, water
weighs 8 pounds per gallon and with that kind of pressure, it most
certainly would not be safe to use and if it was used, your taking a
very serious chance and risk.

As to your driftwood, that sound ugly and nasty, I would not use it if
it were mine. I have no idea of what the white stringy material is, but
it isn't anything I would use I do not think.

Ivan
AquaMaze@abe. <mailto:AquaMaze%40abe.midco.net> midco.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
; uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 3:45 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question

1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline" crack
in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
repairable?

2. I am curing 3 pieces of driftwood. I check on it every other day or
so, it's outside. Each day it is of course brown water but the nastiest
looking white slimy stringy stuff is all over the place. It's floating
everywhere throughout the water and really gross. It's long, short,
thin, thick...very varied but all white and gooey looking. What is
this?

Many thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18076 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Help with Clown Knife Fish
feeder fish,guppies,or goldfish
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Help with Clown Knife Fish


What kind of live food?

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18077 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Use crushed coral, if you dont want to mix it in the tank with your gravel, just put it in a cut off pantyhose. Use 1 cup per 10 gal.s.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 4:02 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Raising PH


Does anyone have any tips on how to raise PH naturally? I am getting
readings of about 6.5-6.6. The fish I have need PH levels that differ from different
ranges. I want it at about 7.0 I tried the stuff by Aquarium Pharamacuticals
and it just isn't doing the job, and I would rather do it naturally.

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18078 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Help with Clown Knife Fish
my local petco said that they have small minnow feeder fish. I will try
that. I have 6 mollies in my 90 that had a litter. LOLOLOL. I only found 1 baby.
My Angel and female betta must have eaten the rest. I took that baby today and
tried to feed him. It slipped out of my grasp and into the tank of death. I
hope he finds him. I am sure he will be elated!!

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18079 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
did you test your tap water? if its the same its your tap of course. if not then something in it is bringing it down. dolomite would bring it up just add a cup and test it in a few days and see how it goes. Shells also brings it up but only by ones at LFS. If there is a section in the LFS for hermit crabs they should have shells there. Just not sure how much is needed. It starts with testing your tap water.

Morganawolf1@... wrote:
Does anyone have any tips on how to raise PH naturally? I am getting
readings of about 6.5-6.6. The fish I have need PH levels that differ from different
ranges. I want it at about 7.0 I tried the stuff by Aquarium Pharamacuticals
and it just isn't doing the job, and I would rather do it naturally.

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18080 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Leslie,

The tank, as is, is useless for holding water. It would just be a matter
of time before the hairline crack is no longer a crack, and the tank
empty. If your friend is willing, the glass can be replaced, but it will
not be an easy job with a tank that size.

I do not know what you are getting from that driftwood soak. What kind
of wood is it? Where did you get it. Have you boiled it prior to the
soaking?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 4:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question

1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline" crack
in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
repairable?

2. I am curing 3 pieces of driftwood. I check on it every other day or
so, it's outside. Each day it is of course brown water but the nastiest
looking white slimy stringy stuff is all over the place. It's floating
everywhere throughout the water and really gross. It's long, short,
thin, thick...very varied but all white and gooey looking. What is
this?

Many thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18081 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
I know my tap water is fine. I have a load of sea shells collected by my
grandfather. He passed some time ago. I treasure them now. can I add them to
bring up the PH? I have giant conch, old hermit crab shells, a few old sand
dollars. I have alot.


Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18082 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
OK I will try that. Thanks.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18083 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/17/2006
Subject: Low mortality rate,Black Mollies.//carnivorous Plecostamus
First issue, Black Mollies.
I have had Black Mollies, White Lyrtail Mollies, white dalmation mollies and
sun burst mollies, and the black ones always die. the black dalmation one
died as well. The others have been thriving over the past 6 months. Why is it
always the black ones that die? I had a beautiful black lyrtail with a
beautiful yellow stripe tipped across his dorsal fin. he died on me. from now on, I
will stick with all the others but black. I can't understand it. they are all
kept together at Petco where I get them. Therefore it must be the breeding.

Second, my Plecostamus.
I have caught him eating silverside fish and shrimp. he gets a wide range of
food, including large seaweed sheets once a week. I have had to hold back on
the algae disks and seaweed though because my tank is getting over runned
with algae.
My apple snails help but, not enough. Their eggs have finally had success in
the fact that I can see tons of little apple snails about the size of the
head of a pin in my tank. I have transferred a large amount into my 29 gallon.
Its really neat.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18084 From: Mark Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Leslie,
The 150 will make a nice terrarium. I hot glue cork bark to the
back of the tank, then attach bromeliads and small orchids to that.
There are all sorts of plants that are suitable for planting in the
bottom, incuding African violets, smaller Begonias, Alternanthera,
Fittonia, mosses, etc. If you keep the humidity high enough, most
Cryptocorynes, Anubias and Echinodorus will work quite well, too. I
spread activated carbon on the bottom, then use a combination of
peat moss and Jungle Mix from ESU as a substrate. The results can
be quite spectacular. If you want something live in the tank, try
day geckos or terrestrial frogs, such as poison dart frogs. BTW,
they're only poisonous in the wild. The toxin comes from the ants
that they eat. Captive bred specimens are not poisonous.

Your driftwood is rotting. This is part of the natural curing
process. All the soft parts will rot. You can speed this up by
scrubbing it to remove as much of the soft tissue as possible. If
you have a power washer, you can use that to remove a lot of the
soft tissue. And change the water you're soaking it in frequently.
Mark

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> 1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline"
crack
> in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
> repairable?
>
> 2. I am curing 3 pieces of driftwood. I check on it every other
day or
> so, it's outside. Each day it is of course brown water but the
nastiest
> looking white slimy stringy stuff is all over the place. It's
floating
> everywhere throughout the water and really gross. It's long,
short,
> thin, thick...very varied but all white and gooey looking. What is
> this?
>
> Many thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18085 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Leslie take me a picture of the tank, I repair many of them with only a
patch ( piece of glass) over it, depends where is the crack, if it's not
affect the structure integrity no problem, get me a pics

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 17 août, 2006 16:46
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question

1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline" crack
in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
repairable?

2. I am curing 3 pieces of driftwood. I check on it every other day or
so, it's outside. Each day it is of course brown water but the nastiest
looking white slimy stringy stuff is all over the place. It's floating
everywhere throughout the water and really gross. It's long, short,
thin, thick...very varied but all white and gooey looking. What is
this?

Many thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18086 From: hank voss Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> 1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline"
crack
> in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
> repairable?
> =======================
Leslie:
Is the crack front to back or lengthwise?If front to back
silicone a piece of plate glass over the crack extending the glass
at least 10 in past the crack since you dont know how the crack will
travel.If lengthwise you will have to put a second p[iece of plate
over the whole bottom.Use several beads of silicone over the plate
glass and make sure the glass is clean(old and new)The cleaner the
glass the better the holding power of the silicone.I have repaired
many tanks this way even side panels.

Regards Hank
> 2. I am curing 3 pieces of driftwood. I check on it every other
day or
> so, it's outside. Each day it is of course brown water but the
nastiest
> looking white slimy stringy stuff is all over the place. It's
floating
> everywhere throughout the water and really gross. It's long,
short,
> thin, thick...very varied but all white and gooey looking. What is
> this?
>
> Many thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18087 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
It's fungus, all drift make have fungus, (normal you get them in water
just soak it with few javel water, but pay attention the more javel, the
more it will lost color



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 17 août, 2006 23:34
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question

Leslie,

The tank, as is, is useless for holding water. It would just be a matter
of time before the hairline crack is no longer a crack, and the tank
empty. If your friend is willing, the glass can be replaced, but it will
not be an easy job with a tank that size.

I do not know what you are getting from that driftwood soak. What kind
of wood is it? Where did you get it. Have you boiled it prior to the
soaking?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 4:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question

1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline" crack
in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
repairable?

2. I am curing 3 pieces of driftwood. I check on it every other day or
so, it's outside. Each day it is of course brown water but the nastiest
looking white slimy stringy stuff is all over the place. It's floating
everywhere throughout the water and really gross. It's long, short,
thin, thick...very varied but all white and gooey looking. What is
this?

Many thanks,
Leslie


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18088 From: hank voss Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > 1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline"
> crack
> > in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
> > repairable?
> > =======================
> Leslie:
> Is the crack front to back or lengthwise?If front to back
> silicone a piece of plate glass over the crack extending the glass
> at least 10 in past the crack since you dont know how the crack
will
> travel.If lengthwise you will have to put a second p[iece of plate
> over the whole bottom.Use several beads of silicone over the plate
> glass and make sure the glass is clean(old and new)The cleaner the
> glass the better the holding power of the silicone.I have repaired
> many tanks this way even side panels.
>
> Regards Hank
=================================

If you have the right tools you can stop a crack in glass by
drilling a hole on either side of the crack.

Hank

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18089 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: My recent trip...
Well... looks fishy anyway.

These are some shots of my underwater trip off the coast of Somalia
where we had to battle pirates in speedboats with AK47's, man eating
sharks and sea snakes... or maybe these are the ones I took at the
Monteray aquarium... I forget...

http://tinyurl.com/kb7ve <http://tinyurl.com/kb7ve>

Regards,

Arthur



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18090 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
No I didn't boil it, the pieces are really large so I don't have
anything to accomodate their size.
They are outside in the sun so I was hoping the hot water would do the
trick.
It's swahalla driftwood I ordered from Fosters and Smith.
I'll go out here in a bit and see if there is any new slimy stuff and
take a picture if there is.

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 10:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question



Leslie,

The tank, as is, is useless for holding water. It would just be a matter
of time before the hairline crack is no longer a crack, and the tank
empty. If your friend is willing, the glass can be replaced, but it will
not be an easy job with a tank that size.

I do not know what you are getting from that driftwood soak. What kind
of wood is it? Where did you get it. Have you boiled it prior to the
soaking?

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 4:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question

1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline" crack
in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
repairable?

2. I am curing 3 pieces of driftwood. I check on it every other day or
so, it's outside. Each day it is of course brown water but the nastiest
looking white slimy stringy stuff is all over the place. It's floating
everywhere throughout the water and really gross. It's long, short,
thin, thick...very varied but all white and gooey looking. What is
this?

Many thanks,
Leslie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18091 From: M A C Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: gambusia tadpole question
So I am a newbie at this water garden thing/pond ownership.

Anyway, I am reading and see that gambusia's and tadpoles don't mix.
Is this true? If I want to have tadpoles does this mean I can't have
Gambi's and tad's?

so both in a pond is a no, no?

Please advise before I go and get some. I am also thinking about
getting plecostamous's as well. Is this ok or not advised?

thanks,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18092 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Hank, and Leslie: Excellent suggestion about drilling a small hole
at both ends of the crack. I'm sure many of us knew that, but like
myself, it just didn't come to mind as without working with glass
every day its not something that is immediately thought of. If the
tank can be obtained cheaply enough, this small investment should
certainly make it useable and still be a good value on the wallet.
Some of the better LFS's ocassionally offer glass drilling services
at $10 to $15 per hole. This may be something to look into if you're
afraid to take this on yourself.-- you just need a small 1/8" (or
less) hole. Depending on the direction of the crack, a plate glass
patch could then work out well.

If a second bottom (over the existing one) is needed to be installed,
this is still a worthwhile investment. After having the glass cut,
its always best to do a preliminary "dry" installation, without any
silicone, to see how this new bottom fits -- always a good idea in
case an edge is a smidgen to tight and needs additional edge
grinding. Better to find out at first, before trying to install in
permanently. For a piece this size, a second person would come in
handy.

When installing, best results I've had is to first put a very thin
silicone bead around the inside perimeter of the tank, around all
four walls (sides and ends) extending up from the existing bottom the
height of the thickness of the glass you are installing. Note' this
bead cannot be very thick (just a little more than a coating) as you
don't want the new glass pushing any excess silicone down under
itself as it drops into place -- you want the new glass to lie
completely flat on top of the old glass for best support. Now before
actually installing the new glass, put a bead of silicone around all
edges and then guide it into place. There is no danger here of
trapping excess silicone under the nerw glass as the direction of
travel (of the new glass) will dictate that any such excess will be
forced to the upper side of it. Naturally, don't gob this bead on
(and wear disposeable rubber gloves), but this will ensure the best
and strongest bond between the new bottom and the existed side and
end panels, even before you later put down a sealing bead around all
four seams where the new bottom meets these sides and ends. This
sealing bead should be done immediately as the new bottom is laid
into place, as then this fresh silicone will push into and bond with
the fresh silicone already in place between the glass surfaces (edges
of new bottom and sides of aquarium), making this the strongest and
most water tight seal you can get. Ray

P.S.: You may get some residual silicone smearing somewhere on the
interior sides of the aquarium as you're dropping the new bottom in
place with silicone already on its edges, but this can be cleaned up
with a razor blade after it dries.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
> > >
> > Leslie:
> > Is the crack front to back or lengthwise?If front to back
> > silicone a piece of plate glass over the crack extending the
glass
> > at least 10 in past the crack since you dont know how the crack
> will
> > travel.If lengthwise you will have to put a second p[iece of
plate
> > over the whole bottom.Use several beads of silicone over the
plate
> > glass and make sure the glass is clean(old and new)The cleaner
the
> > glass the better the holding power of the silicone.I have
repaired
> > many tanks this way even side panels.
> >
> > Regards Hank
> =================================
>
> If you have the right tools you can stop a crack in glass by
> drilling a hole on either side of the crack.
>
> Hank
>
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18093 From: hank voss Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>

>
> When installing, best results I've had is to first put a very thin
> silicone bead around the inside perimeter of the tank, around all
> four walls (sides and ends) extending up from the existing bottom
the
> height of the thickness of the glass you are installing. Note'
this
> bead cannot be very thick (just a little more than a coating) as
you
> don't want the new glass pushing any excess silicone down under
> itself as it drops into place -- you want the new glass to lie
> completely flat on top of the old glass for best support. Now
before
> actually installing the new glass, put a bead of silicone around
all
> edges and then guide it into place. There is no danger here of
> trapping excess silicone under the ne
===================================
Ray:
Ive found that putting a zig zag pattern of silicone over the
whole new piece of glass works best it will never leak then even if
one part of the silicone leaks it will be backed up by the other
beads.Since its the bottom of the tank looks dont matter.If it was
the front or back i would do the way you stated
Regards Hank

PS:Its been 93F every day since ive been down here(i love it)
Humidity is a killer though.

>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > Leslie:
> > > Is the crack front to back or lengthwise?If front to
back
> > > silicone a piece of plate glass over the crack extending the
> glass
> > > at least 10 in past the crack since you dont know how the
crack
> > will
> > > travel.If lengthwise you will have to put a second p[iece of
> plate
> > > over the whole bottom.Use several beads of silicone over the
> plate
> > > glass and make sure the glass is clean(old and new)The cleaner
> the
> > > glass the better the holding power of the silicone.I have
> repaired
> > > many tanks this way even side panels.
> > >
> > > Regards Hank
> > =================================
> >
> > If you have the right tools you can stop a crack in glass by
> > drilling a hole on either side of the crack.
> >
> > Hank
> >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18094 From: chris topher Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: gambusia tadpole question
with any luck you'll end up with tadpoles whether you
want them or not...

frogs are very good at finding places to lay their
eggs...

woody


--- M A C <kd5zmg@...> wrote:

> So I am a newbie at this water garden thing/pond
> ownership.
>
> Anyway, I am reading and see that gambusia's and
> tadpoles don't mix.
> Is this true? If I want to have tadpoles does this
> mean I can't have
> Gambi's and tad's?
>
> so both in a pond is a no, no?
>
> Please advise before I go and get some. I am also
> thinking about
> getting plecostamous's as well. Is this ok or not
> advised?
>
> thanks,
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18095 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
well if you do use them you have to clean them real good. use bleach and let them air dry for a couple of days to let it debleach.

Morganawolf1@... wrote: I know my tap water is fine. I have a load of sea shells collected by my
grandfather. He passed some time ago. I treasure them now. can I add them to
bring up the PH? I have giant conch, old hermit crab shells, a few old sand
dollars. I have alot.


Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18096 From: M A C Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: gambusia tadpole question
Should I even bother then? I will probably get some hyacinths also.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
>
> with any luck you'll end up with tadpoles whether you
> want them or not...
>
> frogs are very good at finding places to lay their
> eggs...
>
> woody
>
>
> --- M A C <kd5zmg@...> wrote:
>
> > So I am a newbie at this water garden thing/pond
> > ownership.
> >
> > Anyway, I am reading and see that gambusia's and
> > tadpoles don't mix.
> > Is this true? If I want to have tadpoles does this
> > mean I can't have
> > Gambi's and tad's?
> >
> > so both in a pond is a no, no?
> >
> > Please advise before I go and get some. I am also
> > thinking about
> > getting plecostamous's as well. Is this ok or not
> > advised?
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18097 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
I couldn't boil my driftwood, either. so I soaked it in regular water,
then bleach water (twice) and then soaked it twice in vinegar water.
Then I let it dry out completely and voila...not a problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18098 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: My recent trip...
LOLOL You had me going there for a min. I am thinking. If he is over there,
how the hell can he keep a fish tank. DUH!!! Nice pics.

Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18099 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Hank, That's a good idea too, and being as most hobbyists paint the
outside bottoms of their tanks anyway (if they're not using gravel),
you could use black aquarium silicone.

P.S.: Yeah, I was wondering about the humidity down there -- even
worse than it is up here. You should have gone to the Atlantic
coast. I guess you saw David's latest post on the SS tanks. If I
could figure how to post pics on these sites, I'd put your 20's up on
eBay and send you some extra cash. If you're not doing anything
tomorrow, come on up to the big picnic, heh, heh, heh. You could
team up with Chuckie for the trip. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > When installing, best results I've had is to first put a very
thin
> > silicone bead around the inside perimeter of the tank, around all
> > four walls (sides and ends) extending up from the existing bottom
> the
> > height of the thickness of the glass you are installing. Note'
> this
> > bead cannot be very thick (just a little more than a coating) as
> you
> > don't want the new glass pushing any excess silicone down under
> > itself as it drops into place -- you want the new glass to lie
> > completely flat on top of the old glass for best support. Now
> before
> > actually installing the new glass, put a bead of silicone around
> all
> > edges and then guide it into place. There is no danger here of
> > trapping excess silicone under the ne
> ===================================
> Ray:
> Ive found that putting a zig zag pattern of silicone over the
> whole new piece of glass works best it will never leak then even if
> one part of the silicone leaks it will be backed up by the other
> beads.Since its the bottom of the tank looks dont matter.If it was
> the front or back i would do the way you stated
> Regards Hank
>
> PS:Its been 93F every day since ive been down here(i love it)
> Humidity is a killer though.
>
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > Leslie:
> > > > Is the crack front to back or lengthwise?If front to
> back
> > > > silicone a piece of plate glass over the crack extending the
> > glass
> > > > at least 10 in past the crack since you dont know how the
> crack
> > > will
> > > > travel.If lengthwise you will have to put a second p[iece of
> > plate
> > > > over the whole bottom.Use several beads of silicone over the
> > plate
> > > > glass and make sure the glass is clean(old and new)The
cleaner
> > the
> > > > glass the better the holding power of the silicone.I have
> > repaired
> > > > many tanks this way even side panels.
> > > >
> > > > Regards Hank
> > > =================================
> > >
> > > If you have the right tools you can stop a crack in glass by
> > > drilling a hole on either side of the crack.
> > >
> > > Hank
> > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18100 From: chris topher Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: gambusia tadpole question
my advice is to experiment and see what works for you,
there are lots of "thou shalt nots" in a hobby,
sometimes good advice and sometimes just rules to be
broken...

my question would be: why cant you keep gambis and
frogs in the same environment? do they put out
chemicals that combine and become lethal? most likely
would be frogs eating little gambis and gambis eating
the tadpoles and frog eggs, if thats the case plants
should provide cover for babies to grow, and camo for
eggs to develop...

dont honestly know about the pleco, you dont say where
you are or what type of pond you have, and off the top
of my head i dont know their temp requirements, but
unless you are in an area where day and night temps
remain fairly warm thoughout the year it probably
wouldnt work out...

i just throw the snails i fish out of the aquariums
into my little pond, most likely deluding myself that
they help keep the algae down...

i like water hyacinths, and water lettuce, the
hyacinth spreads quite well, even faster when you
ignore it, pretty purple flowers...

just remember its supposed to be fun...

woody


--- M A C <kd5zmg@...> wrote:

> Should I even bother then? I will probably get some
> hyacinths also.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, chris topher
> <humbottom@...> wrote:
> >
> > with any luck you'll end up with tadpoles whether
> you
> > want them or not...
> >
> > frogs are very good at finding places to lay their
> > eggs...
> >
> > woody
> >
> >
> > --- M A C <kd5zmg@...> wrote:
> >
> > > So I am a newbie at this water garden thing/pond
> > > ownership.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I am reading and see that gambusia's and
> > > tadpoles don't mix.
> > > Is this true? If I want to have tadpoles does
> this
> > > mean I can't have
> > > Gambi's and tad's?
> > >
> > > so both in a pond is a no, no?
> > >
> > > Please advise before I go and get some. I am
> also
> > > thinking about
> > > getting plecostamous's as well. Is this ok or
> not
> > > advised?
> > >
> > > thanks,
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > test'; ">
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18101 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Help with Clown Knife Fish
feeder fish & some kind of worms.

Morganawolf1@... wrote: What kind of live food?

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18102 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
You can repair the tank with 2 pieces of glass and silcone. I repaired a 300 gal is way . One inside and one outside and lots of silcone. Also make sure you use glass that is at least 6" on both sides of the crack and the intire length may require removing the plastic frame.Sandwitch it with glass and silcone is the meat. LOL
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Raymond Wetzel
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 1:58 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question


Hank, That's a good idea too, and being as most hobbyists paint the
outside bottoms of their tanks anyway (if they're not using gravel),
you could use black aquarium silicone.

P.S.: Yeah, I was wondering about the humidity down there -- even
worse than it is up here. You should have gone to the Atlantic
coast. I guess you saw David's latest post on the SS tanks. If I
could figure how to post pics on these sites, I'd put your 20's up on
eBay and send you some extra cash. If you're not doing anything
tomorrow, come on up to the big picnic, heh, heh, heh. You could
team up with Chuckie for the trip. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > When installing, best results I've had is to first put a very
thin
> > silicone bead around the inside perimeter of the tank, around all
> > four walls (sides and ends) extending up from the existing bottom
> the
> > height of the thickness of the glass you are installing. Note'
> this
> > bead cannot be very thick (just a little more than a coating) as
> you
> > don't want the new glass pushing any excess silicone down under
> > itself as it drops into place -- you want the new glass to lie
> > completely flat on top of the old glass for best support. Now
> before
> > actually installing the new glass, put a bead of silicone around
> all
> > edges and then guide it into place. There is no danger here of
> > trapping excess silicone under the ne
> ===================================
> Ray:
> Ive found that putting a zig zag pattern of silicone over the
> whole new piece of glass works best it will never leak then even if
> one part of the silicone leaks it will be backed up by the other
> beads.Since its the bottom of the tank looks dont matter.If it was
> the front or back i would do the way you stated
> Regards Hank
>
> PS:Its been 93F every day since ive been down here(i love it)
> Humidity is a killer though.
>
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > Leslie:
> > > > Is the crack front to back or lengthwise?If front to
> back
> > > > silicone a piece of plate glass over the crack extending the
> > glass
> > > > at least 10 in past the crack since you dont know how the
> crack
> > > will
> > > > travel.If lengthwise you will have to put a second p[iece of
> > plate
> > > > over the whole bottom.Use several beads of silicone over the
> > plate
> > > > glass and make sure the glass is clean(old and new)The
cleaner
> > the
> > > > glass the better the holding power of the silicone.I have
> > repaired
> > > > many tanks this way even side panels.
> > > >
> > > > Regards Hank
> > > =================================
> > >
> > > If you have the right tools you can stop a crack in glass by
> > > drilling a hole on either side of the crack.
> > >
> > > Hank
> > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18103 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
OK. I just got a bag of crushed coral. Use 1 cup per 10 gallons? That's 9
cups. Thanks. I hope it works. .

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18104 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
It will !
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Raising PH


OK. I just got a bag of crushed coral. Use 1 cup per 10 gallons? That's 9
cups. Thanks. I hope it works. .

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18105 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
OK. I cut the leg out of my daughters stocking. They were for a six month
old. they were white. Filled it with 9 cups of crushed coral and tied it off. It
was about a foot and a half long, white. My husband said it looked like a
whale d***. I had to hide it in the back and cover it with rocks. The most
interesting task I have ever done.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18106 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/18/2006
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Lol Karen, now whatch your PH.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Raising PH


OK. I cut the leg out of my daughters stocking. They were for a six month
old. they were white. Filled it with 9 cups of crushed coral and tied it off. It
was about a foot and a half long, white. My husband said it looked like a
whale d***. I had to hide it in the back and cover it with rocks. The most
interesting task I have ever done.

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18107 From: Margo Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Sturgeon and new member!
Hi. I'm a new member, lurking and learning! I have about a 40 gallon tank with blue gourami's, angel fish, swordfish, beta, platy's, pleco, danios, albino catfish, tetras and most recently, 2 golden barbs (little piggy eaters!). Silk plants because I'm too lazy to put real one's in. I also own 5 dogs, 2 cats and 1 scorpion (1 just died last week and I have to idea how to dispose of it - it is in the freezer until I find out).

My daughter works at the IMAX/Science Centre and took me down to their newest project today - 4 baby sturgeon, which they have committed to grow and hopefully breed (in like 20 years!). They are about 6 inches long and very neat to watch, considering they will be very large at some point! It is a long term project due to their decreasing numbers (I didn't know that!). They will be increasing the tank sizes - right now they are in about a 100 gallon tank (I'm guessing??). I think I'll ask to take pictures and compare them in a year or two.

Anyways, I am enjoying my aquarium - have had it for a full year and I still have the original tetras I started with. It is a peaceful tank and I enjoy that - lacking in color though.....oh well, something for me to give thought to in the next while.

I love looking at the pictures on the yahoo site - you people are amazing! I really have learned so much on this list - every day is something new that I just didn't know!

Margo - back to lurking mode :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18108 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Sissy, While such repair methods sound feasible and have obviously
worked out successfully for you, the best assurance that the crack
won't travel is to first drill a small hole at each end of the crack,
as Hank suggested, effectively preventing any further spread of the
crack. Each crack is different and can react in different ways over
time. You can get a small crack in your car windshield that may stay
as such (small) for years, yet a similar crack on another car can
suddenly travel the width of the car in a week's time. Then too, the
unexpected vibrations of a heavy truck going by the home could cause
a cracked aquarium to spread, even with such a patch. While I
understand that 300 gallons equates to well over 2400 lbs., the 1200+
lbs. of a 150 gallon aquarium is still quite a load on a cracked
bottom. I wouldn't want to be around if that let go. I might trust
this method (no drilling) on smaller tanks however. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> You can repair the tank with 2 pieces of glass and silcone. I
repaired a 300 gal is way . One inside and one outside and lots of
silcone. Also make sure you use glass that is at least 6" on both
sides of the crack and the intire length may require removing the
plastic frame.Sandwitch it with glass and silcone is the meat. LOL
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Raymond Wetzel
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 1:58 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
>
>
> Hank, That's a good idea too, and being as most hobbyists paint
the
> outside bottoms of their tanks anyway (if they're not using
gravel),
> you could use black aquarium silicone.
>
> P.S.: Yeah, I was wondering about the humidity down there -- even
> worse than it is up here. You should have gone to the Atlantic
> coast. I guess you saw David's latest post on the SS tanks. If I
> could figure how to post pics on these sites, I'd put your 20's
up on
> eBay and send you some extra cash. If you're not doing anything
> tomorrow, come on up to the big picnic, heh, heh, heh. You could
> team up with Chuckie for the trip. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > When installing, best results I've had is to first put a very
> thin
> > > silicone bead around the inside perimeter of the tank, around
all
> > > four walls (sides and ends) extending up from the existing
bottom
> > the
> > > height of the thickness of the glass you are installing.
Note'
> > this
> > > bead cannot be very thick (just a little more than a coating)
as
> > you
> > > don't want the new glass pushing any excess silicone down
under
> > > itself as it drops into place -- you want the new glass to
lie
> > > completely flat on top of the old glass for best support. Now
> > before
> > > actually installing the new glass, put a bead of silicone
around
> > all
> > > edges and then guide it into place. There is no danger here
of
> > > trapping excess silicone under the ne
> > ===================================
> > Ray:
> > Ive found that putting a zig zag pattern of silicone over the
> > whole new piece of glass works best it will never leak then
even if
> > one part of the silicone leaks it will be backed up by the
other
> > beads.Since its the bottom of the tank looks dont matter.If it
was
> > the front or back i would do the way you stated
> > Regards Hank
> >
> > PS:Its been 93F every day since ive been down here(i love it)
> > Humidity is a killer though.
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@>
wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > Leslie:
> > > > > Is the crack front to back or lengthwise?If front to
> > back
> > > > > silicone a piece of plate glass over the crack extending
the
> > > glass
> > > > > at least 10 in past the crack since you dont know how the
> > crack
> > > > will
> > > > > travel.If lengthwise you will have to put a second p[iece
of
> > > plate
> > > > > over the whole bottom.Use several beads of silicone over
the
> > > plate
> > > > > glass and make sure the glass is clean(old and new)The
> cleaner
> > > the
> > > > > glass the better the holding power of the silicone.I have
> > > repaired
> > > > > many tanks this way even side panels.
> > > > >
> > > > > Regards Hank
> > > > =================================
> > > >
> > > > If you have the right tools you can stop a crack in glass
by
> > > > drilling a hole on either side of the crack.
> > > >
> > > > Hank
> > > >
> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18109 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Update: Crack in the glass & driftwood
Thank you all so much for the great information. I learnd a LOT! And
while I hope I never have to use the info, knowledge is power in bad
situations! The tank that has the crack is being utilized by someone
else. I didn't persue getting it.

The driftwood is still darkening the water and there are still nasty
white slimy things each time I dump it out to change it. I did try to
take some pictures but they do not show up hardly at all. I've decided
it has something to do with it being outside, although I will move it
all in tonight and watch it from there.

I have a 130 gallon aquarium coming today, full of fish. (9 6" clown
loaches, 5 large silver dollars & two "rare" catfish.) I have to figure
out where to move my 75 as that's where the 130 will go. So with that
said, I gotta' run. =)

~Leslie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18110 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
I was talking to my son , and he reminded me we used plywood on the bottom, and glass on the inside. I remember now, it's been 25 years ! lol
My crack was all the way across the bottom 30" , at least it was the short distance and not the 8 ft length.
We was able to trim it back out with the wood bottom, just tacked on wood trim. This tank is in my den and still running today as a saltwater reef.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Raymond Wetzel
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 6:10 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question


Sissy, While such repair methods sound feasible and have obviously
worked out successfully for you, the best assurance that the crack
won't travel is to first drill a small hole at each end of the crack,
as Hank suggested, effectively preventing any further spread of the
crack. Each crack is different and can react in different ways over
time. You can get a small crack in your car windshield that may stay
as such (small) for years, yet a similar crack on another car can
suddenly travel the width of the car in a week's time. Then too, the
unexpected vibrations of a heavy truck going by the home could cause
a cracked aquarium to spread, even with such a patch. While I
understand that 300 gallons equates to well over 2400 lbs., the 1200+
lbs. of a 150 gallon aquarium is still quite a load on a cracked
bottom. I wouldn't want to be around if that let go. I might trust
this method (no drilling) on smaller tanks however. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> You can repair the tank with 2 pieces of glass and silcone. I
repaired a 300 gal is way . One inside and one outside and lots of
silcone. Also make sure you use glass that is at least 6" on both
sides of the crack and the intire length may require removing the
plastic frame.Sandwitch it with glass and silcone is the meat. LOL
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Raymond Wetzel
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 1:58 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
>
>
> Hank, That's a good idea too, and being as most hobbyists paint
the
> outside bottoms of their tanks anyway (if they're not using
gravel),
> you could use black aquarium silicone.
>
> P.S.: Yeah, I was wondering about the humidity down there -- even
> worse than it is up here. You should have gone to the Atlantic
> coast. I guess you saw David's latest post on the SS tanks. If I
> could figure how to post pics on these sites, I'd put your 20's
up on
> eBay and send you some extra cash. If you're not doing anything
> tomorrow, come on up to the big picnic, heh, heh, heh. You could
> team up with Chuckie for the trip. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > When installing, best results I've had is to first put a very
> thin
> > > silicone bead around the inside perimeter of the tank, around
all
> > > four walls (sides and ends) extending up from the existing
bottom
> > the
> > > height of the thickness of the glass you are installing.
Note'
> > this
> > > bead cannot be very thick (just a little more than a coating)
as
> > you
> > > don't want the new glass pushing any excess silicone down
under
> > > itself as it drops into place -- you want the new glass to
lie
> > > completely flat on top of the old glass for best support. Now
> > before
> > > actually installing the new glass, put a bead of silicone
around
> > all
> > > edges and then guide it into place. There is no danger here
of
> > > trapping excess silicone under the ne
> > ===================================
> > Ray:
> > Ive found that putting a zig zag pattern of silicone over the
> > whole new piece of glass works best it will never leak then
even if
> > one part of the silicone leaks it will be backed up by the
other
> > beads.Since its the bottom of the tank looks dont matter.If it
was
> > the front or back i would do the way you stated
> > Regards Hank
> >
> > PS:Its been 93F every day since ive been down here(i love it)
> > Humidity is a killer though.
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@>
wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > Leslie:
> > > > > Is the crack front to back or lengthwise?If front to
> > back
> > > > > silicone a piece of plate glass over the crack extending
the
> > > glass
> > > > > at least 10 in past the crack since you dont know how the
> > crack
> > > > will
> > > > > travel.If lengthwise you will have to put a second p[iece
of
> > > plate
> > > > > over the whole bottom.Use several beads of silicone over
the
> > > plate
> > > > > glass and make sure the glass is clean(old and new)The
> cleaner
> > > the
> > > > > glass the better the holding power of the silicone.I have
> > > repaired
> > > > > many tanks this way even side panels.
> > > > >
> > > > > Regards Hank
> > > > =================================
> > > >
> > > > If you have the right tools you can stop a crack in glass
by
> > > > drilling a hole on either side of the crack.
> > > >
> > > > Hank
> > > >
> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18111 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: what should I use?
Been reading and doing my homework before I setup my 40 gal, I read
somewhere I should put something between my aquarium and the stand,
one article mentioned styrofoam, while another mentioned plastic
sheathing....anyone have a suggestion?....can't wait to get up and
running so I can post pics...thnks Rick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18112 From: recklessdisregard Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Using Snails to Combat Algae
Hey all, new to the group scene and have a question. I've got a
120Gal aquarium that has been getting over ran with algae and i'm
opposed to tearing it completely down and bleach out everything. Will
snails help keep some of this algae at bay?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18113 From: harry perry Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae/reckless
On a very small scale and at a snails pace.. Algae is in your tank because it can be, you are feeding it. It can only exist when it has food. So, we eliminate the food. It is a simple one celled plant. Live plants will out-compete it for food. When there is excess nutrients in the tank algae will appear. Even if you break down the tank and bleach everything it will be back

Excess nutrients are; fish waste, dead plant leaves, dead fish, lack of a 20% water change once a week, following the feeding instructions on the food container, not having your lights on a timer.

SOLUTION; put your lights on a timer, $7.00 at Walmart. 7 AM to 7PM works.

Do 20% water changes once a week including vacuuming the gravel surface.Use plants like java moss and hornwort, these are nutrient sponges.

Use Flourish Excel, a plant fertilizer, on a regular basis.

Only feed your fish once a day or every other day would be better .

The game plan is;Get rid of any waste, help your live plants as much as you can.

This works. I have an algae free 30 gal. Algae free for years. It's simple a matter of strategy.

Harry

recklessdisregard <recklessdisregard@...> wrote: Hey all, new to the group scene and have a question. I've got a
120Gal aquarium that has been getting over ran with algae and i'm
opposed to tearing it completely down and bleach out everything. Will
snails help keep some of this algae at bay?






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18114 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: bettas question
ok so I have a odd question my betta is like looking like his head is going
to explode.. now I know they do something like this when they are like wanting
to mate or something right but I have had bettas for 10 years and watch them
all the time and never seen mine do this before.. I have seen fins spread
out and such but this is really kinda freaking me out... any help.. thanks
Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18115 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Some manufacturers recommend it, others will void the warranty if you put
anything between the aquarium and the stand. Read the warranty or contact
the manufacturer.



(I emailed All-Glass and got a 24 hour response to a question I had last
week.)



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of chicagobears2010
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 2:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] what should I use?



Been reading and doing my homework before I setup my 40 gal, I read
somewhere I should put something between my aquarium and the stand,
one article mentioned styrofoam, while another mentioned plastic
sheathing....anyone have a suggestion?....can't wait to get up and
running so I can post pics...thnks Rick





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18116 From: rick linboom Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Bought aquarium for 3rd party, not sure who made it




GO CUBS!
































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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18117 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
I know that All-Glass recommends the aquarium be placed directly on a fish
tank stand with nothing in between. I’ve read some posters outside the US
where the manufacturer recommends the thin Styrofoam (they make the
aquariums without frames).



Maybe someone else on the list can advise you.



The info I read was on another site from a thread from a poster who had a
tank on Styrofoam set up without trouble for years, and came home from
dinner one night to find the tank cracked, the water on the floor, and all
fish dead. There was a lot of debate as to whether the Styrofoam was the
cause, was installed incorrectly, etc.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rick linboom
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 8:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] what should I use?



Bought aquarium for 3rd party, not sure who made it

GO CUBS!

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18118 From: Cory Walter Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: bettas question
If his eyes are bulging and have white rings around them, he has popeye. There is a medication available at the pet store for it......It is called Maracyn-Two and comes in tablets you put in the tank every day.........I know bettas flare their gills and fins and blow bubble nests in the top of the tank when they are ready to mate......not sure about the head thing......Cory

---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18119 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
A 40 gal. it's not so heavy, how long it is ? Don't wait too much time, put
it on the stand right now and fill it.

Gerard<




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de chicagobears2010
Envoyé : 19 août, 2006 14:33
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] what should I use?

Been reading and doing my homework before I setup my 40 gal, I read
somewhere I should put something between my aquarium and the stand,
one article mentioned styrofoam, while another mentioned plastic
sheathing....anyone have a suggestion?....can't wait to get up and
running so I can post pics...thnks Rick






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18120 From: Hope Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Questions..
Just joined the group..This saltwater thing is very new to us..
My husband has a 70 gallon tank he set up a few weeks ago..He has a
little live rock in it..snails and crabs are doing fine..We allowed
it to cycle for about 4 weeks before we put the snails and crabs
in..Waited until they were in there for about 2 weeks..He put a
bunch of new liverock into the tank..let it set for a week..Then
purchased 3 damsel fish and a chromis..By the next morning the
chromis and one damsel had died..I told him to take out the liverock
and introduce it more slowly..I researched and read that that's how
it should be done..
The readings come back fine on the water..His brother owns a Live
Saltwater store..And we have the water tested at least once a week
if not more..His brother gave him another filter..But the water is
very murky looking now..It was very clear before he took the other
liverock out..So I'm just not real sure what's going on with it..
Anyone have any ideas??
He's so excited about having this tank, but is becomeing very
flustered..
I'm wondering if he should drain it and start over..But he will not
like that..

Thanks for any advice..
Hope,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18121 From: Leslie Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18122 From: littlenloud Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: update on oscar
wow, the meds i used for him (he ahd HTH disease)REALLY helped, and he
is healing up nicely. it is absolutely amazing how fast it has healed
since being properly diagnosed and treated. I'm very happy.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18123 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
i only see pictures of turtles in the "130 fresh water" photo album.

Leslie <5moores@...> wrote: I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie






Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18124 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/19/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
My friends shop has over 50 tanks on styrofoam. I have 10 on styrofoam
right now and will be placing four more on Styrofoam this weekend.

Your posting is the first I have heard mentioning a possible problem with
it.
I HAD a 40 gallon acrylic on a stand today without styrofoam and it sprung
a leak down a seam in the back. Totally unrelated to the styrofoam issue.
This tank got smacked into a door frame when I moved in last month. As soon
as I get back from Peru I will working on patching it up. Right now the 6
Tropheus that were in it are in a 26 gallon. I hope they get along ok for the
next 10 days until I get back.

Mike

In a message dated 8/19/2006 5:41:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
djransome@... writes:






The info I read was on another site from a thread from a poster who had a
tank on Styrofoam set up without trouble for years, and came home from
dinner one night to find the tank cracked, the water on the floor, and all
fish dead. There was a lot of debate as to whether the Styrofoam was the
cause, was installed incorrectly, etc.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18125 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: bettas question
yea its not pop eye but kinda sounded like it I think it might be more of a
gill thingy he is doing it like you said but no nests but its freaking me
out looks scary lol Shannon




If his eyes are bulging and have white rings around them, he has popeye.
There is a medication available at the pet store for it......It is called
Maracyn-Two and comes in tablets you put in the tank every day.........If his eyes
are bulging and have white rings around them, he has popeye. There is a
medication available at the pet store for it......It is called Maracyn-Two and









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18126 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
I have about 15 apple snails always at work. They are the best so far.
Malaysian Trumpet snails are another one but, they tend to overpopulate immensely
really quick.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18127 From: Mark Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Leslie,
They are silver dollars. Your mystery catfish are royal plecos, and
look like pretty nice ones at that.
Mark

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
> that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch.
I've
> only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's
highly
> possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
> much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
> else at adulthood?
>
> Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen.
Can
> someone tell me what it is?
>
> The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in
the
> bunch.
>
> Thanks!
> Leslie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18128 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
You catfish look like a Panaque, cousin of pleco, I will look later in my
book if no one give you the real name

Yes it's look like Silver Dollar, if you talk about the one in the shadow,
get a better pic, you have many variety of Silver Pacu and Piranha look
also like Silver pay attention Clown Loach and Silver get very easy the
ich,

Leslie you don't put the fish the same day you fill the tank ??????






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie
Envoyé : 19 août, 2006 22:38
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18129 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
I confirm my first idea, it's a Panaque nigrolineatus , I don't like to
call them Royal Pleco, as uselly the Pleco are refer to the Hypostomus type,
and since they are Panaque, it's like the Sturisoma, the fish seller call
them Royal Farlowella, it's not even the same family. But Royal Pleco is
the common name found in fish store. It's like the Tilapia people buy to
eat , they are not tilapia but near cousin. It's why they call it common
name also ....

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Mark
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 08:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Leslie,
They are silver dollars. Your mystery catfish are royal plecos, and
look like pretty nice ones at that.
Mark

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
> that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch.
I've
> only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's
highly
> possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
> much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
> else at adulthood?
>
> Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen.
Can
> someone tell me what it is?
>
> The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in
the
> bunch.
>
> Thanks!
> Leslie
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18130 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Hope, was the live rock cured? If not you should always cure live rock in a seperate tank,lots of micro critters do die in the rock as well as attached corals and sponges.
To cure rock you first remove any thing ithat looks dead, wash it real well in a bucket of saltwater before placeing it in a seperate tank to cure, and do 1/2 water changes for days, untill the tanks stays clear, this can take a week or so.
PH will fall when the polution is high , and will kill the damsels, crabs, and snails. If the tank water is cloudy, I dont see how the water test came back normal, low PH, and ammonia will make the tank cloudy.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 8:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions..


Just joined the group..This saltwater thing is very new to us..
My husband has a 70 gallon tank he set up a few weeks ago..He has a
little live rock in it..snails and crabs are doing fine..We allowed
it to cycle for about 4 weeks before we put the snails and crabs
in..Waited until they were in there for about 2 weeks..He put a
bunch of new liverock into the tank..let it set for a week..Then
purchased 3 damsel fish and a chromis..By the next morning the
chromis and one damsel had died..I told him to take out the liverock
and introduce it more slowly..I researched and read that that's how
it should be done..
The readings come back fine on the water..His brother owns a Live
Saltwater store..And we have the water tested at least once a week
if not more..His brother gave him another filter..But the water is
very murky looking now..It was very clear before he took the other
liverock out..So I'm just not real sure what's going on with it..
Anyone have any ideas??
He's so excited about having this tank, but is becomeing very
flustered..
I'm wondering if he should drain it and start over..But he will not
like that..

Thanks for any advice..
Hope,





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18131 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Sissy now than you talk about it, in fresh water it's the same when I start
a new tank, I put ammonia, and my ph is low, so the tank come cloudy, it's
like that I know the cycle is finish, when it come clear( I use also the
test kit :) )


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 09:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..



low PH, and ammonia will make the tank cloudy.




Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18132 From: chris topher Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
i've never hear of using styrofoam under the tank...

what is the purpose behind the sytrofoam?

needless to say, i have no syrofoam under any of my
tanks...

woody

--- Deenerz@... wrote:

>
> My friends shop has over 50 tanks on styrofoam. I
> have 10 on styrofoam
> right now and will be placing four more on Styrofoam
> this weekend.
>
> Your posting is the first I have heard mentioning a
> possible problem with
> it.
> I HAD a 40 gallon acrylic on a stand today without
> styrofoam and it sprung
> a leak down a seam in the back. Totally unrelated
> to the styrofoam issue.
> This tank got smacked into a door frame when I moved
> in last month. As soon
> as I get back from Peru I will working on patching
> it up. Right now the 6
> Tropheus that were in it are in a 26 gallon. I
> hope they get along ok for the
> next 10 days until I get back.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 8/19/2006 5:41:45 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> djransome@... writes:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The info I read was on another site from a thread
> from a poster who had a
> tank on Styrofoam set up without trouble for years,
> and came home from
> dinner one night to find the tank cracked, the
> water on the floor, and all
> fish dead. There was a lot of debate as to whether
> the Styrofoam was the
> cause, was installed incorrectly, etc.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18133 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: RE what should I use?
Your stand or rack might be level today but tomarrow might settle alittle
and then the tanks will be a little off. A tank leaning one way or another can
cause problems down the road.
Styrofoam under the tank allows for the tank to settle evenly, and
compensate for any movement of the stand.

I have seen styrofoam used in California fish rooms where they can absorb
some of the shifting and rattling they go through during earthquakes. But I
use styrofoam mainly to compensate for my building skills. I never can get a
rack to be 100% level..

Its cheap and easy to cut to fit.. and like I say a little insurance can GO
A LONG WAY...

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
_Freshwater Tropical Aquaria Society Forum_
(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)



In a message dated 8/20/2006 10:00:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
humbottom@... writes:




i've never hear of using styrofoam under the tank...

what is the purpose behind the sytrofoam?

needless to say, i have no syrofoam under any of my
tanks...

woody








(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18134 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: RE what should I use?
Rob, What is the size of the tank you use Styrofoam, and what thickness and
density of Styrofoam you are using ?

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de FortWayneFish@...
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 10:08
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] RE what should I use?



Your stand or rack might be level today but tomarrow might settle alittle
and then the tanks will be a little off. A tank leaning one way or another
can
cause problems down the road.
Styrofoam under the tank allows for the tank to settle evenly, and
compensate for any movement of the stand.

I have seen styrofoam used in California fish rooms where they can absorb
some of the shifting and rattling they go through during earthquakes. But I

use styrofoam mainly to compensate for my building skills. I never can get a

rack to be 100% level..

Its cheap and easy to cut to fit.. and like I say a little insurance can GO

A LONG WAY...

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
_Freshwater Tropical Aquaria Society Forum_
(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)



In a message dated 8/20/2006 10:00:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
humbottom@... writes:




i've never hear of using styrofoam under the tank...

what is the purpose behind the sytrofoam?

needless to say, i have no syrofoam under any of my
tanks...

woody








(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18135 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: RE what should I use?
I am using strofoam at 3/4 inch styrofoam under most of my tanks but
especially under the dual 75 gallon tanks on a stand I made. It was level or close
to it 2 years ago when I built it but over time it had settled close to 1/4
inch towards the center. I have taken the tanks off and inserted more
center braces but the stand is still off level. So I left the styro to
compensate.

I find i use a lot of styrofoam under smaller tanks also. Makes placing
them on uneven surfaces easy. Like in front of the fireplace on brick, or on a
dresser or bookshelf.

Imagine 25 tanks in a den with a fireplace, and a sliding glass door..


Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
_Freshwater Tropical Aquaria Society Forum_
(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)


In a message dated 8/20/2006 10:16:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dataxpert@... writes:

Rob, What is the size of the tank you use Styrofoam, and what thickness and
density of Styrofoam you are using ?




(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18136 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Problem to know the concentration of malachite in the products avai
I try to make a page on how to cure the ich, I accumulate a lot of
information, according to experience and other reference the
dosage for Malachite green is .1 to .2 mg/l , but it's not
everyone who have a milligram balance, so I try to compare the
product on the market to make a chart on how to dose it, their the
problem start, by example the Liquid Super Ick Cure of API,
contain 1,3 mg of Malachite green with other product, if it was
only malachite it's make according to their instruction .07 mg/l
and they use it for 48 hours not even 24. a lot of manufacturer do
not put the concentration of malachite in their product, it's very
hard to work with fish medicine, they look like magical and secret
recipes, many of these company do not give the ingredient of their
product, not like in the human medicine where you get all the info.
An other interesting fact, they don't provide good instructions,
malachite green is photo sensitive, it will decompose with light ,
they don't even inform the customer to close the light of the
tank, in the case of API Liquid Super Ick, they suggest 2
treatment at 48 distance, with the neon light open the product is
useless after only few hours. If we compare with human medicine, a
Doctor know than by example a tetracycline pills is 250 mg , so he
can judge if he give 1 or 2 and at what interval. So I think it's
about time we start to ask those companies to give us the fact, and
to the people to buy only the serious product where the facts are
know.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18137 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
For certain people the Styrofoam it's supposed to absorb the irregularity,
and by this way equalize the pressure. For me the Styrofoam is not dense
enough to do the job, it will collapse with time and humidity. The only
place it will be useful, it's in small tank, who don't need it anyway,
but in other end Styrofoam can be use at the back of the tank, for save on
the electricity of the heater. I will build a 600 gal.+ tank in my fish
room, the bottom side and back will be insulate with Styrofoam, BUT NOT AT
THE HOLDING POINT . Anyway most of the heat will be lost by the top , but
what I will save will be save. ....



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de chris topher
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 09:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] what should I use?

i've never hear of using styrofoam under the tank...

what is the purpose behind the sytrofoam?

needless to say, i have no syrofoam under any of my
tanks...

woody

--- Deenerz@... wrote:

>
> My friends shop has over 50 tanks on styrofoam. I
> have 10 on styrofoam
> right now and will be placing four more on Styrofoam
> this weekend.
>
> Your posting is the first I have heard mentioning a
> possible problem with
> it.
> I HAD a 40 gallon acrylic on a stand today without
> styrofoam and it sprung
> a leak down a seam in the back. Totally unrelated
> to the styrofoam issue.
> This tank got smacked into a door frame when I moved
> in last month. As soon
> as I get back from Peru I will working on patching
> it up. Right now the 6
> Tropheus that were in it are in a 26 gallon. I
> hope they get along ok for the
> next 10 days until I get back.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 8/19/2006 5:41:45 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> djransome@... writes:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The info I read was on another site from a thread
> from a poster who had a
> tank on Styrofoam set up without trouble for years,
> and came home from
> dinner one night to find the tank cracked, the
> water on the floor, and all
> fish dead. There was a lot of debate as to whether
> the Styrofoam was the
> cause, was installed incorrectly, etc.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18138 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: RE what should I use?
What I'm worry Rob, is the Styrofoam with light and humidity will weak .
But here so math :

Styrofoam have density per foot, styrofoam sm by comparaison have a minimum
compressive strength of 30 psi at 10% , so a 75 gal tank is holding only
on the edge of the side glass so around 44 square inch so it's can support
1300 pounds, so at 700 pounds it will have a 5% deformation on the foam ,
you should use the highload Styrofoam at least it's have a 60 psi
resistance.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de FortWayneFish@...
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 10:30
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] RE what should I use?



I am using strofoam at 3/4 inch styrofoam under most of my tanks but
especially under the dual 75 gallon tanks on a stand I made. It was level
or close
to it 2 years ago when I built it but over time it had settled close to 1/4

inch towards the center. I have taken the tanks off and inserted more
center braces but the stand is still off level. So I left the styro to
compensate.

I find i use a lot of styrofoam under smaller tanks also. Makes placing
them on uneven surfaces easy. Like in front of the fireplace on brick, or
on a
dresser or bookshelf.

Imagine 25 tanks in a den with a fireplace, and a sliding glass door..


Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
_Freshwater Tropical Aquaria Society Forum_
(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)


In a message dated 8/20/2006 10:16:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dataxpert@... writes:

Rob, What is the size of the tank you use Styrofoam, and what thickness
and
density of Styrofoam you are using ?




(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18139 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down in either fresh or saltwater. If you have marine fish cycling the tank, its not the ammonia that kills them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states depending on the pH of the water. The unionized state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized state, NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body tissue of marine animals much easier. Almost all free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH is in the ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the less toxic ionized state decreases and the more toxic unionized state increases. For example, a toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present with a pH of 8.4 being lethal , but the same level of ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may be tolerated. Higher tank temperatures can also effect the toxicity of ammonia..
8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive to maintain with all my marine aquariums, yet 8.0 is dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with no amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock the PH will fall rapidly, killing even more inhabitants of the rock, water changes and protein skimming is the only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand bed in curing tanks,due to the large colonies of nitrifying bacteria.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:08 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions..


Sissy now than you talk about it, in fresh water it's the same when I start
a new tank, I put ammonia, and my ph is low, so the tank come cloudy, it's
like that I know the cycle is finish, when it come clear( I use also the
test kit :) )

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 09:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

low PH, and ammonia will make the tank cloudy.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18140 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
(SISSY the ammonia is not acid, it's at the other end of the PH it's a
strong base at 10% concentration it give PH 12,8) adding ammonia will
increase the ph., it's the ammonia who kill not the ph, in a low ph the
ammonia is transform in ammonium(NH4) the ammonia test give the total of
ammonia(NH3) an ammonium(NH4) so for know witch one you have you compare
the result with the ph value on a chart, the result is the same , the more
the ph is high the more you have ammonia instead of ammonium, and the more
the fish will die.

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 11:22
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down in either fresh or
saltwater. If you have marine fish cycling the tank, its not the ammonia
that kills them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states depending on the pH
of the water. The unionized state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized
state, NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body tissue of marine
animals much easier. Almost all free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH
is in the ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the less toxic
ionized state decreases and the more toxic unionized state increases. For
example, a toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present with a pH of 8.4
being lethal , but the same level of ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may
be tolerated. Higher tank temperatures can also effect the toxicity of
ammonia..
8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive to maintain with all my
marine aquariums, yet 8.0 is dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with
no amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock the PH will fall rapidly,
killing even more inhabitants of the rock, water changes and protein
skimming is the only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand bed in
curing tanks,due to the large colonies of nitrifying bacteria.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:08 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions..


Sissy now than you talk about it, in fresh water it's the same when I
start
a new tank, I put ammonia, and my ph is low, so the tank come cloudy, it's
like that I know the cycle is finish, when it come clear( I use also the
test kit :) )

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De
la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 09:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

low PH, and ammonia will make the tank cloudy.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18141 From: sskmajd Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: turning off filter overnight?
I'm setting up a 10 gallon tank in my daughters' room and would like
to put the filter on the timer with the light in order to eliminate
the tank noise while they are trying to sleep. Any views about the
wisdom of this plan? There are live plants and no airstone.

Thanks,
Sherri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18142 From: hank voss Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Problem to know the concentration of malachite in the products
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I try to make a page on how to cure the ich, I accumulate a lot
of
> information, according to experience and other reference the
> dosage for Malachite green is .1 to .2 mg/l , but it's not
> everyone who have a milligram balance, so I try to compare the
> product on the market to make a chart on how to dose it, their the
> problem start, by example the Liquid Super Ick Cure of API,
> contain 1,3 mg of Malachite green with other product, if it was
> only malachite it's make according to their instruction .07
mg/l
=========================

Gerard;
Malachite green is terrific for curing ich but for the
average hobbyist i would recomend using the store bought
products,because in the wrong dosage it will kill you fish.Ive been
using it for 40-50 yrs now for avarity of diseases.I have it 100%
granular form and mix it myself.It is a poison.Mixing will result in
some small dust of the chem. to become airborn and you will find
yourself with green areas over your hands and arms and they dont
wash off. Certain fish like tetras are very sensitive to this dye
you have to use half dosages on them.In the begining i lost lots of
fish due to to strong a concentration.In short stay with the store
bought mal green it safer.

Regards Hank


> and they use it for 48 hours not even 24. a lot of manufacturer do
> not put the concentration of malachite in their product, it's
very
> hard to work with fish medicine, they look like magical and secret
> recipes, many of these company do not give the ingredient of their
> product, not like in the human medicine where you get all the
info.
> An other interesting fact, they don't provide good instructions,
> malachite green is photo sensitive, it will decompose with
light ,

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18143 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: turning off filter overnight?
You should never turn off a filter, you will kill the bacteria inside by
lack of oxygen, are you using a inside filter drive by air, if so just buy
a Hagen external filter, it's noiseless

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de sskmajd
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 11:35
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] turning off filter overnight?

I'm setting up a 10 gallon tank in my daughters' room and would like
to put the filter on the timer with the light in order to eliminate
the tank noise while they are trying to sleep. Any views about the
wisdom of this plan? There are live plants and no airstone.

Thanks,
Sherri





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18144 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Problem to know the concentration of malachite in the products
Hank, thanks, but you miss my point, I'm building a web site, and I want to
make a chart on how dose the formula already prepare sold in the store, not
on how to use malachite in crystals form, ( malachite is not granular ) the
reason is because the company who produce the solution don't give the good
instructions, for the malachite crystals, like many chemical , you have to
take precaution, glove, air mask, and a millimetre balance and volumetric
flask to make the solution. Of course I know also than certain fish need
half dose it's why the need of my chart, since the solution sold in store
are not reliable, as for the concentration.
By the way I'm not using malachite for ich.

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de hank voss
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 12:22
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Problem to know the concentration of malachite in
the products available

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I try to make a page on how to cure the ich, I accumulate a lot
of
> information, according to experience and other reference the
> dosage for Malachite green is .1 to .2 mg/l , but it's not
> everyone who have a milligram balance, so I try to compare the
> product on the market to make a chart on how to dose it, their the
> problem start, by example the Liquid Super Ick Cure of API,
> contain 1,3 mg of Malachite green with other product, if it was
> only malachite it's make according to their instruction .07
mg/l
=========================

Gerard;
Malachite green is terrific for curing ich but for the
average hobbyist i would recomend using the store bought
products,because in the wrong dosage it will kill you fish.Ive been
using it for 40-50 yrs now for avarity of diseases.I have it 100%
granular form and mix it myself.It is a poison.Mixing will result in
some small dust of the chem. to become airborn and you will find
yourself with green areas over your hands and arms and they dont
wash off. Certain fish like tetras are very sensitive to this dye
you have to use half dosages on them.In the begining i lost lots of
fish due to to strong a concentration.In short stay with the store
bought mal green it safer.

Regards Hank


> and they use it for 48 hours not even 24. a lot of manufacturer do
> not put the concentration of malachite in their product, it's
very
> hard to work with fish medicine, they look like magical and secret
> recipes, many of these company do not give the ingredient of their
> product, not like in the human medicine where you get all the
info.
> An other interesting fact, they don't provide good instructions,
> malachite green is photo sensitive, it will decompose with
light ,

>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18145 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Yes I did put them is the same day. They had nowhere else to go.
The water is water they were in for a while plus the water that was in
my 75. The filters are all established as well as the gravel on the
bottom. I think they'll be OK. I'm keeping an eye on them and will
address anything that may come up. I have heard the loaches are
susesptable to ick so I'm really watching for that considering their
fast change in environment.

You think I have a pacu and piranha?

Leslie


Cabot Garage Sale: <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/

Little Rock Garage Sale: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LRgarageSale/

Zainy Zebra Children's Consignment! <http://www.zainyzebra.com/>
www.ZainyZebra.com
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 7:43 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



You catfish look like a Panaque, cousin of pleco, I will look later in
my
book if no one give you the real name

Yes it's look like Silver Dollar, if you talk about the one in the
shadow,
get a better pic, you have many variety of Silver Pacu and Piranha look
also like Silver pay attention Clown Loach and Silver get very easy the
ich,

Leslie you don't put the fish the same day you fill the tank ??????

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie
Envoyé : 19 août, 2006 22:38
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18146 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Problem to know the concentration of malachite in the products
Hank what I want to do is a chart where you will see, the brand of the
product, how to dose it, the interval, I will like also to include a list of
fish where the treatment should be half dose, and also alternative
solution, like increase the temp. salt, tank transfer, malachite is useless
if the concentration is too low, or if the light are still open, and it kill
if overdose, I got all the page ready, the problem is some company do not
give what they put in the bottle, and honestly I don't trust all them . Like
by example a guy at API told me on their phone line than Melafix can be use
full strength with Silver Dollar, in fact even at half the dose it will kill
the fish in 3 days. They are may be good chemist, but I have question about
their testing on real fish.

Frankly those company are not serious, the don't put the concentration and
ingredients, for those who can use the number, and they don't put good
instruction for the beginner, so those product are not good for the pro and
the beginner. Where in a bottle of API or MArdrel and many other you will
see to close the light, or it will kill the invertebrate.....


Gerard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gerard gagnon
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 12:35
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Problem to know the concentration of malachite
in the products available

Hank, thanks, but you miss my point, I'm building a web site, and I want to
make a chart on how dose the formula already prepare sold in the store, not
on how to use malachite in crystals form, ( malachite is not granular ) the
reason is because the company who produce the solution don't give the good
instructions, for the malachite crystals, like many chemical , you have to
take precaution, glove, air mask, and a millimetre balance and volumetric
flask to make the solution. Of course I know also than certain fish need
half dose it's why the need of my chart, since the solution sold in store
are not reliable, as for the concentration.
By the way I'm not using malachite for ich.

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de hank voss
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 12:22
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Problem to know the concentration of malachite in
the products available

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I try to make a page on how to cure the ich, I accumulate a lot
of
> information, according to experience and other reference the
> dosage for Malachite green is .1 to .2 mg/l , but it's not
> everyone who have a milligram balance, so I try to compare the
> product on the market to make a chart on how to dose it, their the
> problem start, by example the Liquid Super Ick Cure of API,
> contain 1,3 mg of Malachite green with other product, if it was
> only malachite it's make according to their instruction .07
mg/l
=========================

Gerard;
Malachite green is terrific for curing ich but for the
average hobbyist i would recomend using the store bought
products,because in the wrong dosage it will kill you fish.Ive been
using it for 40-50 yrs now for avarity of diseases.I have it 100%
granular form and mix it myself.It is a poison.Mixing will result in
some small dust of the chem. to become airborn and you will find
yourself with green areas over your hands and arms and they dont
wash off. Certain fish like tetras are very sensitive to this dye
you have to use half dosages on them.In the begining i lost lots of
fish due to to strong a concentration.In short stay with the store
bought mal green it safer.

Regards Hank


> and they use it for 48 hours not even 24. a lot of manufacturer do
> not put the concentration of malachite in their product, it's
very
> hard to work with fish medicine, they look like magical and secret
> recipes, many of these company do not give the ingredient of their
> product, not like in the human medicine where you get all the
info.
> An other interesting fact, they don't provide good instructions,
> malachite green is photo sensitive, it will decompose with
light ,

>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18147 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
The fish in the foreground are Silver, but the one you ask , at the back I
can not say, too dark, especially you said it's don't look like a silver,


as for the tank and the filter, if you use a mature filter and gravel, no
problem, but for that the gravel have to be keep in water, and not only a
canister, you have to have a running water to keep the oxygen level high,
same with the filter you have to make them run in an other aquarium and just
install them at the end when the tank is fill . if you keep the gravel in
the old aquarium until you need to use it no need for extra precaution,
since the debris inside will feed the bacteria, but the filter you have to
provide ammonia if they are keep alive only in a plastic container like I
did offend .


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 12:53
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Yes I did put them is the same day. They had nowhere else to go.
The water is water they were in for a while plus the water that was in
my 75. The filters are all established as well as the gravel on the
bottom. I think they'll be OK. I'm keeping an eye on them and will
address anything that may come up. I have heard the loaches are
susesptable to ick so I'm really watching for that considering their
fast change in environment.

You think I have a pacu and piranha?

Leslie


Cabot Garage Sale: <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotgarageSale/

Little Rock Garage Sale: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LRgarageSale/

Zainy Zebra Children's Consignment! <http://www.zainyzebra.com/>
www.ZainyZebra.com
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 7:43 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



You catfish look like a Panaque, cousin of pleco, I will look later in
my
book if no one give you the real name

Yes it's look like Silver Dollar, if you talk about the one in the
shadow,
get a better pic, you have many variety of Silver Pacu and Piranha look
also like Silver pay attention Clown Loach and Silver get very easy the
ich,

Leslie you don't put the fish the same day you fill the tank ??????

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie
Envoyé : 19 août, 2006 22:38
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
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LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18148 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: turning off filter overnight?
Turning off the filter isn't a good idea. It will kill the bacteria built up in the filteration system thus not beneficial to the whole eco system of the tank.

Not sure about your daughter, but my son (7) has a 12g self contained tank (Eclipse) as a night light he never says anything about the noise of the filter or water running his comment is it helps him sleep LOL though his tank is on a crazy schedule the fish thrive in there. Also when he gets a chance he loves to crash in the livingroom and that is a place you don't get away from the sound of running water with exterior, sponge filters or UGF's going in all the tanks. Personally I love the sound of running water while sleeping as does hubby who now hates to go out of town on army stuff says it's just too quiet LOL in our room there are a fare share of breeder tanks with the one on the nightstand set up with a community as he says he's got to have some baby angels to hang out with on those rough nights not being able to sleep well. My son also has a group of my killis there with small filters running of a air pump they don't make much noise at all and will throw in he's
slept better every since adding the tank(s) to his room.

Shannon

sskmajd <dklcsw@...> wrote:
I'm setting up a 10 gallon tank in my daughters' room and would like
to put the filter on the timer with the light in order to eliminate
the tank noise while they are trying to sleep. Any views about the
wisdom of this plan? There are live plants and no airstone.

Thanks,
Sherri






SHANNON LINGENFELTER


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18149 From: wendie Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: turning off filter overnight?
I have one next to my bed. You tune them out after a bit. The same with
the tanks in the living room. I have high speed filters tossing water and
it sounds like a brook which after a bit I don't even hear.
Wendie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18150 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Gerard, My bad!
I should have said the organic acids from metabolic wastes, that register as ammonia on a test kit, lower the PH . What is the PH of "organic" fish waste ? :)
I know if you check the PH on the water collected from a skimmer its below my chart levels (5.0-) The ammonia is off the scale.(10+ ppm)
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 10:42 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions..


(SISSY the ammonia is not acid, it's at the other end of the PH it's a
strong base at 10% concentration it give PH 12,8) adding ammonia will
increase the ph., it's the ammonia who kill not the ph, in a low ph the
ammonia is transform in ammonium(NH4) the ammonia test give the total of
ammonia(NH3) an ammonium(NH4) so for know witch one you have you compare
the result with the ph value on a chart, the result is the same , the more
the ph is high the more you have ammonia instead of ammonium, and the more
the fish will die.

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 11:22
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down in either fresh or
saltwater. If you have marine fish cycling the tank, its not the ammonia
that kills them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states depending on the pH
of the water. The unionized state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized
state, NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body tissue of marine
animals much easier. Almost all free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH
is in the ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the less toxic
ionized state decreases and the more toxic unionized state increases. For
example, a toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present with a pH of 8.4
being lethal , but the same level of ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may
be tolerated. Higher tank temperatures can also effect the toxicity of
ammonia..
8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive to maintain with all my
marine aquariums, yet 8.0 is dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with
no amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock the PH will fall rapidly,
killing even more inhabitants of the rock, water changes and protein
skimming is the only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand bed in
curing tanks,due to the large colonies of nitrifying bacteria.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:08 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Sissy now than you talk about it, in fresh water it's the same when I
start
a new tank, I put ammonia, and my ph is low, so the tank come cloudy, it's
like that I know the cycle is finish, when it come clear( I use also the
test kit :) )

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De
la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 09:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

low PH, and ammonia will make the tank cloudy.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18151 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Yes it's why I talk about the test of NH(3 and 4) but ammonia as a dissolve
gaz is acid, One think is sure the ammonia test is useless if you don't
measure the ph also.

Don'T know skimmer, never make salt tank, but soon..... and I will have
question for you on it . I don't use skimmer in fresh because they remove
the DOC who remove the Heavy Metal from water, see at the bottom of my page
but in salt tank you need them because the plant are missing to make their
job .


http://www.aqualab.ca/water_chemistry/metal.htm





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 13:28
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Gerard, My bad!
I should have said the organic acids from metabolic wastes, that register as
ammonia on a test kit, lower the PH . What is the PH of "organic" fish waste
? :)
I know if you check the PH on the water collected from a skimmer its below
my chart levels (5.0-) The ammonia is off the scale.(10+ ppm)
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 10:42 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions..


(SISSY the ammonia is not acid, it's at the other end of the PH it's a
strong base at 10% concentration it give PH 12,8) adding ammonia will
increase the ph., it's the ammonia who kill not the ph, in a low ph the
ammonia is transform in ammonium(NH4) the ammonia test give the total of
ammonia(NH3) an ammonium(NH4) so for know witch one you have you compare
the result with the ph value on a chart, the result is the same , the more
the ph is high the more you have ammonia instead of ammonium, and the more
the fish will die.

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De
la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 11:22
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down in either fresh or
saltwater. If you have marine fish cycling the tank, its not the ammonia
that kills them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states depending on the
pH
of the water. The unionized state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized
state, NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body tissue of marine
animals much easier. Almost all free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH
is in the ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the less toxic
ionized state decreases and the more toxic unionized state increases. For
example, a toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present with a pH of 8.4
being lethal , but the same level of ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may
be tolerated. Higher tank temperatures can also effect the toxicity of
ammonia..
8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive to maintain with all my
marine aquariums, yet 8.0 is dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with
no amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock the PH will fall rapidly,
killing even more inhabitants of the rock, water changes and protein
skimming is the only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand bed in
curing tanks,due to the large colonies of nitrifying bacteria.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:08 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Sissy now than you talk about it, in fresh water it's the same when I
start
a new tank, I put ammonia, and my ph is low, so the tank come cloudy, it's
like that I know the cycle is finish, when it come clear( I use also the
test kit :) )

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De
la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 09:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

low PH, and ammonia will make the tank cloudy.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18152 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Sissy I was near to send you a plane ticket last Thursday night,( as
aquarium servicing company) I get operate for a knee, I was not able to
move, and a big case of ich in my 150 gal. Silver dollar tank. (the heater
was unplug, but not the air con in the room, the tank lower at 20'C ) But
the thing goes better now, with their arthroscopies it's fantastic, you work
very fast. So soon I will be strong enough to finish my fish room. I plant
to put a 10' salt water tank in the wall between my office and the closet,
do you have suggestion I like the lion fish, don't know nothing about the
live rock, do you know some sting ray who will stay small ?

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 13:28
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Gerard, My bad!
I should have said the organic acids from metabolic wastes, that register as
ammonia on a test kit, lower the PH . What is the PH of "organic" fish waste
? :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18153 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
No, the liverock was not cured properly..It was one of
those things, where I say..I read you have to do this
and he says..But my brother says their ready
now..Maybe he will listen to me more..LOL!!
The snails, crabs and one damsel are all fine and
thriving..
Freshwater I have no problem with..I've had my
freshwater tank for quite sometime now..And it's
crystal clear..

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Hope, was the live rock cured? If not you should
> always cure live rock in a seperate tank,lots of
> micro critters do die in the rock as well as
> attached corals and sponges.
> To cure rock you first remove any thing ithat looks
> dead, wash it real well in a bucket of saltwater
> before placeing it in a seperate tank to cure, and
> do 1/2 water changes for days, untill the tanks
> stays clear, this can take a week or so.
> PH will fall when the polution is high , and will
> kill the damsels, crabs, and snails. If the tank
> water is cloudy, I dont see how the water test came
> back normal, low PH, and ammonia will make the tank
> cloudy.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18154 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
How does one lower the ammonia??

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down in
> either fresh or saltwater. If you have marine fish
> cycling the tank, its not the ammonia that kills
> them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states
> depending on the pH of the water. The unionized
> state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized state,
> NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body
> tissue of marine animals much easier. Almost all
> free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH is in the
> ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the
> less toxic ionized state decreases and the more
> toxic unionized state increases. For example, a
> toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present with a
> pH of 8.4 being lethal , but the same level of
> ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may be tolerated.
> Higher tank temperatures can also effect the
> toxicity of ammonia..
> 8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive to
> maintain with all my marine aquariums, yet 8.0 is
> dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with no
> amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock the PH
> will fall rapidly, killing even more inhabitants of
> the rock, water changes and protein skimming is the
> only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand bed
> in curing tanks,due to the large colonies of
> nitrifying bacteria.
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18155 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Hope...... you need live nitrifying bacteria from an exsisting aquarium. Can you go to your brothers store and get cured rock, live sand from a deepsand bed, or gravel (dolomite or crushed coral), older the tank the better. This will seed in Nitrosococcus and Nitrococcus bacterias and they will eatup the ammonias, you also need to do a 50% water change more than likly. Can you get your water tested and give me the reading?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..


How does one lower the ammonia??

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down in
> either fresh or saltwater. If you have marine fish
> cycling the tank, its not the ammonia that kills
> them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states
> depending on the pH of the water. The unionized
> state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized state,
> NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body
> tissue of marine animals much easier. Almost all
> free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH is in the
> ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the
> less toxic ionized state decreases and the more
> toxic unionized state increases. For example, a
> toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present with a
> pH of 8.4 being lethal , but the same level of
> ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may be tolerated.
> Higher tank temperatures can also effect the
> toxicity of ammonia..
> 8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive to
> maintain with all my marine aquariums, yet 8.0 is
> dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with no
> amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock the PH
> will fall rapidly, killing even more inhabitants of
> the rock, water changes and protein skimming is the
> only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand bed
> in curing tanks,due to the large colonies of
> nitrifying bacteria.
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18156 From: Keri Kimball Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
Hello,
Wow a 120 gallon I would to have one that big. My 55 I use snails, algae eaters and plecos. I also have small ghost shrimp to help clean the bottom. I have found one thing, snails will eat dead fish. My water has stayed crystal clear since middle of June without a water change. I had back surgery and can not do water changes on it righrt now. So I like snails, I just also keep 2 clown loaches to keep the snail population down.

Keri

recklessdisregard <recklessdisregard@...> wrote:
Hey all, new to the group scene and have a question. I've got a
120Gal aquarium that has been getting over ran with algae and i'm
opposed to tearing it completely down and bleach out everything. Will
snails help keep some of this algae at bay?






---------------------------------
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Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18157 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Sissy are you still using UGF in reverse mode in the salt tank in those day
?



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 16:50
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Hope...... you need live nitrifying bacteria from an exsisting aquarium. Can
you go to your brothers store and get cured rock, live sand from a deepsand
bed, or gravel (dolomite or crushed coral), older the tank the better. This
will seed in Nitrosococcus and Nitrococcus bacterias and they will eatup the
ammonias, you also need to do a 50% water change more than likly. Can you
get your water tested and give me the reading?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..


How does one lower the ammonia??

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down in
> either fresh or saltwater. If you have marine fish
> cycling the tank, its not the ammonia that kills
> them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states
> depending on the pH of the water. The unionized
> state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized state,
> NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body
> tissue of marine animals much easier. Almost all
> free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH is in the
> ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the
> less toxic ionized state decreases and the more
> toxic unionized state increases. For example, a
> toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present with a
> pH of 8.4 being lethal , but the same level of
> ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may be tolerated.
> Higher tank temperatures can also effect the
> toxicity of ammonia..
> 8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive to
> maintain with all my marine aquariums, yet 8.0 is
> dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with no
> amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock the PH
> will fall rapidly, killing even more inhabitants of
> the rock, water changes and protein skimming is the
> only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand bed
> in curing tanks,due to the large colonies of
> nitrifying bacteria.
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18158 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Gerard,
I hope you get well real soon !
I like Texas Skate rays, they stay small in the aquarium. I would not advise putting one with a lion fish, ray's learn when feeding time comes a tend to get pretty aggressive and excited, it could get stung by the lion. A shark would be a better tank mate.


Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 12:55 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions..


Sissy I was near to send you a plane ticket last Thursday night,( as
aquarium servicing company) I get operate for a knee, I was not able to
move, and a big case of ich in my 150 gal. Silver dollar tank. (the heater
was unplug, but not the air con in the room, the tank lower at 20'C ) But
the thing goes better now, with their arthroscopies it's fantastic, you work
very fast. So soon I will be strong enough to finish my fish room. I plant
to put a 10' salt water tank in the wall between my office and the closet,
do you have suggestion I like the lion fish, don't know nothing about the
live rock, do you know some sting ray who will stay small ?

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 13:28
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Gerard, My bad!
I should have said the organic acids from metabolic wastes, that register as
ammonia on a test kit, lower the PH . What is the PH of "organic" fish waste
? :)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18159 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: UGF was questions
I have not use a UGF in 20 years. I prefer protein skimming. I use live rock and deep live sand beds.
I prefer built in overflow boxes with drilled holes, under the tank is another tank called a sump. In the sump... I have a bubble catch wall where the drain hoses come in from the overflow boxes of the aquarium into the sump( narrow only 4" wide), next stage is a sponge area catching debris, next is a 10 wall where the refugium is,then another wall 9" tall where the skimmer/pump,and return pump are. The refugium is seeded with all kinds of pods and live culerpa (plant).
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions..


Sissy are you still using UGF in reverse mode in the salt tank in those day
?

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 16:50
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Hope...... you need live nitrifying bacteria from an exsisting aquarium. Can
you go to your brothers store and get cured rock, live sand from a deepsand
bed, or gravel (dolomite or crushed coral), older the tank the better. This
will seed in Nitrosococcus and Nitrococcus bacterias and they will eatup the
ammonias, you also need to do a 50% water change more than likly. Can you
get your water tested and give me the reading?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

How does one lower the ammonia??

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down in
> either fresh or saltwater. If you have marine fish
> cycling the tank, its not the ammonia that kills
> them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states
> depending on the pH of the water. The unionized
> state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized state,
> NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body
> tissue of marine animals much easier. Almost all
> free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH is in the
> ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the
> less toxic ionized state decreases and the more
> toxic unionized state increases. For example, a
> toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present with a
> pH of 8.4 being lethal , but the same level of
> ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may be tolerated.
> Higher tank temperatures can also effect the
> toxicity of ammonia..
> 8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive to
> maintain with all my marine aquariums, yet 8.0 is
> dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with no
> amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock the PH
> will fall rapidly, killing even more inhabitants of
> the rock, water changes and protein skimming is the
> only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand bed
> in curing tanks,due to the large colonies of
> nitrifying bacteria.
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com

__________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18160 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: UGF was questions
I get the Idea, they make over tank filter with algae for filtration in the
book, Dynamic Aquaria, Building living ecosystems, Walther H.Adey, Karen
Loveland. I love their wave maker . But why no UGF ???

I want a relaxing aquarium, I love the white color of the sand and the coral
in the salt tank, so or I go with few lion, or a sting ray, or may be a
shark, but I want something who move slowly, for me when I build a tank I
fix a mood before, so a soft relaxing one will be for this first salt tank,
no bright color fish no overstocking, the size of the home made tank will
be 120" long 24 " wide and 24" high the hole in the wall is already cut. I
just have to make few hole in the floor to make the post, who will reach the
concrete floor in the basement. Since it's a walk-in closet (9' x 10' at the
back , no problem to put a sump there)



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 17:34
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] UGF was questions

I have not use a UGF in 20 years. I prefer protein skimming. I use live rock
and deep live sand beds.
I prefer built in overflow boxes with drilled holes, under the tank is
another tank called a sump. In the sump... I have a bubble catch wall where
the drain hoses come in from the overflow boxes of the aquarium into the
sump( narrow only 4" wide), next stage is a sponge area catching debris,
next is a 10 wall where the refugium is,then another wall 9" tall where the
skimmer/pump,and return pump are. The refugium is seeded with all kinds of
pods and live culerpa (plant).
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions..


Sissy are you still using UGF in reverse mode in the salt tank in those
day
?

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De
la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 16:50
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Hope...... you need live nitrifying bacteria from an exsisting aquarium.
Can
you go to your brothers store and get cured rock, live sand from a
deepsand
bed, or gravel (dolomite or crushed coral), older the tank the better.
This
will seed in Nitrosococcus and Nitrococcus bacterias and they will eatup
the
ammonias, you also need to do a 50% water change more than likly. Can you
get your water tested and give me the reading?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

How does one lower the ammonia??

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down in
> either fresh or saltwater. If you have marine fish
> cycling the tank, its not the ammonia that kills
> them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states
> depending on the pH of the water. The unionized
> state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized state,
> NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body
> tissue of marine animals much easier. Almost all
> free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH is in the
> ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the
> less toxic ionized state decreases and the more
> toxic unionized state increases. For example, a
> toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present with a
> pH of 8.4 being lethal , but the same level of
> ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may be tolerated.
> Higher tank temperatures can also effect the
> toxicity of ammonia..
> 8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive to
> maintain with all my marine aquariums, yet 8.0 is
> dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with no
> amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock the PH
> will fall rapidly, killing even more inhabitants of
> the rock, water changes and protein skimming is the
> only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand bed
> in curing tanks,due to the large colonies of
> nitrifying bacteria.
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18161 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: UGF was questions
No need for a UGF, therefor less nitrate, and better water quality. Protein skimmers, skim the proteins out before the bacteria has a chance to consume it. In saltwater UGF spells trouble.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 4:55 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] UGF was questions


I get the Idea, they make over tank filter with algae for filtration in the
book, Dynamic Aquaria, Building living ecosystems, Walther H.Adey, Karen
Loveland. I love their wave maker . But why no UGF ???

I want a relaxing aquarium, I love the white color of the sand and the coral
in the salt tank, so or I go with few lion, or a sting ray, or may be a
shark, but I want something who move slowly, for me when I build a tank I
fix a mood before, so a soft relaxing one will be for this first salt tank,
no bright color fish no overstocking, the size of the home made tank will
be 120" long 24 " wide and 24" high the hole in the wall is already cut. I
just have to make few hole in the floor to make the post, who will reach the
concrete floor in the basement. Since it's a walk-in closet (9' x 10' at the
back , no problem to put a sump there)

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 17:34
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] UGF was questions

I have not use a UGF in 20 years. I prefer protein skimming. I use live rock
and deep live sand beds.
I prefer built in overflow boxes with drilled holes, under the tank is
another tank called a sump. In the sump... I have a bubble catch wall where
the drain hoses come in from the overflow boxes of the aquarium into the
sump( narrow only 4" wide), next stage is a sponge area catching debris,
next is a 10 wall where the refugium is,then another wall 9" tall where the
skimmer/pump,and return pump are. The refugium is seeded with all kinds of
pods and live culerpa (plant).
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerard gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Sissy are you still using UGF in reverse mode in the salt tank in those
day
?

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De
la
part de Sissy Sathre
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 16:50
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

Hope...... you need live nitrifying bacteria from an exsisting aquarium.
Can
you go to your brothers store and get cured rock, live sand from a
deepsand
bed, or gravel (dolomite or crushed coral), older the tank the better.
This
will seed in Nitrosococcus and Nitrococcus bacterias and they will eatup
the
ammonias, you also need to do a 50% water change more than likly. Can you
get your water tested and give me the reading?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

How does one lower the ammonia??

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down in
> either fresh or saltwater. If you have marine fish
> cycling the tank, its not the ammonia that kills
> them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states
> depending on the pH of the water. The unionized
> state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized state,
> NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body
> tissue of marine animals much easier. Almost all
> free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH is in the
> ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the
> less toxic ionized state decreases and the more
> toxic unionized state increases. For example, a
> toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present with a
> pH of 8.4 being lethal , but the same level of
> ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may be tolerated.
> Higher tank temperatures can also effect the
> toxicity of ammonia..
> 8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive to
> maintain with all my marine aquariums, yet 8.0 is
> dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with no
> amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock the PH
> will fall rapidly, killing even more inhabitants of
> the rock, water changes and protein skimming is the
> only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand bed
> in curing tanks,due to the large colonies of
> nitrifying bacteria.
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18162 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
The little bit of liverock that is in the tank is from
an exsisting aquarium..his brother gave it to him to
start..not alot..But some..there is also crushed corol
and live sand from one of his tanks in his store..So
all of the above is from an exsisting tank..
I called my hubby at work and told him all that you
said..I believe he's going to have his water tested
again tomorrow..

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Hope...... you need live nitrifying bacteria from an
> exsisting aquarium. Can you go to your brothers
> store and get cured rock, live sand from a deepsand
> bed, or gravel (dolomite or crushed coral), older
> the tank the better. This will seed in Nitrosococcus
> and Nitrococcus bacterias and they will eatup the
> ammonias, you also need to do a 50% water change
> more than likly. Can you get your water tested and
> give me the reading?
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hope Livingston
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 1:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..
>
>
> How does one lower the ammonia??
>
> --- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> > Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down
> in
> > either fresh or saltwater. If you have marine
> fish
> > cycling the tank, its not the ammonia that kills
> > them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states
> > depending on the pH of the water. The unionized
> > state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized
> state,
> > NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body
> > tissue of marine animals much easier. Almost all
> > free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH is in
> the
> > ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the
> > less toxic ionized state decreases and the more
> > toxic unionized state increases. For example, a
> > toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present
> with a
> > pH of 8.4 being lethal , but the same level of
> > ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may be
> tolerated.
> > Higher tank temperatures can also effect the
> > toxicity of ammonia..
> > 8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive
> to
> > maintain with all my marine aquariums, yet 8.0
> is
> > dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with no
> > amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock
> the PH
> > will fall rapidly, killing even more inhabitants
> of
> > the rock, water changes and protein skimming is
> the
> > only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand
> bed
> > in curing tanks,due to the large colonies of
> > nitrifying bacteria.
> >
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18163 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Leslie it remember me than in 1993 to around 1996 I have a Blue Eyed
Panaque, Panaque suttonorum, black, with blue eye, one of the most
beautifull fish I never have. I saw few beautiful Royal Panaque like yours
( but smaller) in LFS' I will go get few this week.
Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gerard gagnon
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 08:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I confirm my first idea, it's a Panaque nigrolineatus , I don't like to
call them Royal Pleco, as uselly the Pleco are refer to the Hypostomus type,
and since they are Panaque, it's like the Sturisoma, the fish seller call
them Royal Farlowella, it's not even the same family. But Royal Pleco is
the common name found in fish store. It's like the Tilapia people buy to
eat , they are not tilapia but near cousin. It's why they call it common
name also ....

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Mark
Envoyé : 20 août, 2006 08:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Leslie,
They are silver dollars. Your mystery catfish are royal plecos, and
look like pretty nice ones at that.
Mark

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
> that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch.
I've
> only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's
highly
> possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
> much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
> else at adulthood?
>
> Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen.
Can
> someone tell me what it is?
>
> The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in
the
> bunch.
>
> Thanks!
> Leslie
>






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18164 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Guess what!! I told hubby days ago he needed to clean
the inside walls of his aquarium..I thought he had
done it..Tonight when he came home from work..He was
cleaning the outside..I asked you did clean the inside
the other day right..OH, I forgot..
Well I began to clean them..The water's not murky..The
glass was dirty..I can tell tho..I'm gonna have to be
the one to stay on top of his aquarium too..

Hope,

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Hope...... you need live nitrifying bacteria from an
> exsisting aquarium. Can you go to your brothers
> store and get cured rock, live sand from a deepsand
> bed, or gravel (dolomite or crushed coral), older
> the tank the better. This will seed in Nitrosococcus
> and Nitrococcus bacterias and they will eatup the
> ammonias, you also need to do a 50% water change
> more than likly. Can you get your water tested and
> give me the reading?
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18165 From: Evita Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: turning off filter overnight?
Sherri, I am not too sure about turning off the filter at night is a good idea. But I will say the sound might actual become a soothing sleep sound once she gets used to it. My I have a tank in my room and it doesn't bother me. I think it would be up to where in the room you placed it. Mine is at the foot side of my bed. Evita

sskmajd <dklcsw@...> wrote: I'm setting up a 10 gallon tank in my daughters' room and would like
to put the filter on the timer with the light in order to eliminate
the tank noise while they are trying to sleep. Any views about the
wisdom of this plan? There are live plants and no airstone.

Thanks,
Sherri






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18166 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
That is good news !! It would still be nice to know the water conditions, I would get the water checked for Ammonia,nitrite,nitrate and PH.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..


Guess what!! I told hubby days ago he needed to clean
the inside walls of his aquarium..I thought he had
done it..Tonight when he came home from work..He was
cleaning the outside..I asked you did clean the inside
the other day right..OH, I forgot..
Well I began to clean them..The water's not murky..The
glass was dirty..I can tell tho..I'm gonna have to be
the one to stay on top of his aquarium too..

Hope,

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Hope...... you need live nitrifying bacteria from an
> exsisting aquarium. Can you go to your brothers
> store and get cured rock, live sand from a deepsand
> bed, or gravel (dolomite or crushed coral), older
> the tank the better. This will seed in Nitrosococcus
> and Nitrococcus bacterias and they will eatup the
> ammonias, you also need to do a 50% water change
> more than likly. Can you get your water tested and
> give me the reading?
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18167 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/20/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Well in my friends situation he has pallet racks like CostCo, Home Depot,
Lowes, etc. and these racks have metal wire racks that go from the front beam to
the rear beam. 1 inch by 1 inch holes or larger. The styrofoam gives a nice
flat surface and helps keep tanks level on a potentially uneven surface.

I have smaller racks similar to the pallet racks and have uneven surfaces and
use the styrofoam for the same purpose, to level out any potential uneven
surfaces.
I just setup four tanks within the last couple hours.

I also have three 60 gallon tanks on styrofoam on the ground. The ground is
also uneven and the foam also helps insulate against a cold floor.

Mike

In a message dated 8/20/2006 7:00:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
humbottom@... writes:
i've never hear of using styrofoam under the tank...

what is the purpose behind the sytrofoam?

needless to say, i have no syrofoam under any of my
tanks...

woody

--- Deenerz@... wrote:

>
> My friends shop has over 50 tanks on styrofoam. I
> have 10 on styrofoam
> right now and will be placing four more on Styrofoam
> this weekend.
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18168 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: More aquarium fun from Monterey
Here's some more shot's from the Monterey aquarium. Their jellyfish
exibt is awesome and makes for great photos:

http://tinyurl.com/ej2b5 <http://tinyurl.com/ej2b5>

Regards,

Arthur



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18169 From: Hope Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
He tested the water this morning..PH is 8.8..So he needs to get that
down..

Hope,


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> That is good news !! It would still be nice to know the water
conditions, I would get the water checked for Ammonia,nitrite,nitrate
and PH.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hope Livingston
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 9:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18170 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Hope, thats hard to beleave, are you sure it 8.8 ?
Marine aquariums tend to go down not up ,especally if it cycleing. I have been doing marine tanks for 30 years and never seen a PH of 8.8 ever!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Questions..


He tested the water this morning..PH is 8.8..So he needs to get that
down..

Hope,

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> That is good news !! It would still be nice to know the water
conditions, I would get the water checked for Ammonia,nitrite,nitrate
and PH.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hope Livingston
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 9:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18171 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
That's what the strip registered..He's doing a 50%
water change right now..

Hope,

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Hope, thats hard to beleave, are you sure it 8.8 ?
> Marine aquariums tend to go down not up ,especally
> if it cycleing. I have been doing marine tanks for
> 30 years and never seen a PH of 8.8 ever!
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com


__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18172 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
Hope, Doing the water change is a good thing to do in any case. Test strips are usually have a short shelf life, could be they are expired. Some test strips are Freshwater specific. Can you tell me what brand and look for expiration date on the box.
I like Seatest fast test. They have a longer shelf life and are Saltwater specific. I find them to be very accurate.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Questions..


That's what the strip registered..He's doing a 50%
water change right now..

Hope,

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Hope, thats hard to beleave, are you sure it 8.8 ?
> Marine aquariums tend to go down not up ,especally
> if it cycleing. I have been doing marine tanks for
> 30 years and never seen a PH of 8.8 ever!
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18173 From: dragonman_999 Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: ich
How long does ich take to kill a fish?

Thanks
Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18174 From: sfcrabman Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: Common carp
Free 8-15 lb freshwater common carp in the bay area.
can coordinate delivery.
Anyone that has a koi-style pond and want free
common carp anywhere around san francisco,
sent me an e-mail, how many you need.
This is a fish rescue, the fish will die if not captured in
the next 2 weeks.
Only for private aqariums, no relocation to public waterways.
Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18175 From: Ann Date: 8/21/2006
Subject: backgrounds on tanks
Was just wondering about the decorative backgrounds you can buy to tape onto the back of the tanks. The one tank we just bought from someone had the background alread on it and it looks really clear..you can see the details in it really good..shows up nice when the light is on...but the one background, that is very colorful that I just purchased for the other tank barely shows up (colors/details etc)..even with the light on. Was wondering if there's a trick to putting it on or something I'm doing wrong. any help appreciated! Thanks.
Ann in FL

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18176 From: michelle276597 Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Neon Tetras with "white blob" on mouth
Hello Everyone!

I am Michelle, living in England, my husband and I recently purchased
a house and with the house came a fish tank. The fish tank is under
the stairs plush against the wall so we call it a HD Plasma tv for the
cats as they now live on the dinning table watching the tank all
day ..anyway, last night we noticed that two of our neon tetras hav e
a white blob (we thought it was a tiny piece of food)at the end of
there mouths, the same fish also have hlaf a tail, the tails is not
ragged or fetheary - any ideas or suggestions?? Thugh we are new to
fish we are loving them!
Thanks in advance!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18177 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: backgrounds on tanks
I've found that the vinyl ones show up better than the plastic, I tend
to spritz the glass with soapy water, then adhere the vinyl backing to
the glass, then tape it on. Seems to hold up longer that way, and look
sharper

> Was just wondering about the decorative backgrounds you can buy to
tape onto the back of the tanks. The one tank we just bought from
someone had the background alread on it and it looks really clear..you
can see the details in it really good..shows up nice when the light is
on...but the one background, that is very colorful that I just
purchased for the other tank barely shows up (colors/details etc)..even
with the light on. Was wondering if there's a trick to putting it on
or something I'm doing wrong. any help appreciated! Thanks.
> Ann in FL
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18178 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
We did the water change..We ran out of test strips
from testing so much..So he took a sample of the water
to his brother's shop..And everything read
perfect..The water is almost crystal clear now..I
still think it was the liverock..The water had been
cycling with a little bit of liverock from his
brother's exsisting tank for about a month and all the
readings were great..Then he put all this other
liverock in without cycling it properly..And BOOM!!
We got another tank from his brother lastnight..So he
can cycle the liverock in a different tank..
Also he only has two regular filters on it..So he's
going to do a separate filter, with bio balls..like
his bro has in the shop..
His brother finally told him yesterday..patience man,
patience..LOL!! Bout time someone else told him..He
doesn't listen to me..

Hope,

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Hope, Doing the water change is a good thing to do
> in any case. Test strips are usually have a short
> shelf life, could be they are expired. Some test
> strips are Freshwater specific. Can you tell me what
> brand and look for expiration date on the box.
> I like Seatest fast test. They have a longer shelf
> life and are Saltwater specific. I find them to be
> very accurate.
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18179 From: sriram21 Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Treatment for Electric Blue Jack Depmsey (EBJD)
Hi,

I recently got electric blue jack dempsey. I am aware that they are
weak fish and susceptible to internal parasites. I had 4 fishes and 2
of them died. My other 2 are sick and I have tried various medication
(PraziPro, Jungle, Clout).... I have them in a hospital tank with
Clout. however.. they still seem to be going down.... They do swim at
times but then also stay at a place and this behavior is similar to
the 2 that died... Wanted to see if anyone here can help or have
suggestion.... It feels very sad to see the fish die and not be able
to help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18180 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Problem with a Pacu
Hello all, this morning I go to the the LFS , after they call me, one
of their Pacu bite an other one and remove a part of is mouth 5 days
ago, the 2 fish are 5" long. I end the suffering of this fish, but
he was not looking too suffer much, and even eating. I bring the
other at home for observation, and mainly identification, it's look
like a young silver pacu, but I'm not sure, if they are someone with
experience with silver pacu of piranha can look at the pics, I will
observe the teeth of the one I have here tomorrow only, , I just let
him use to his new water . pls if you have sensitive heart , do not
look at the pics.

http://www.aqualab.ca/pacu.htm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18181 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Royal Pleco questions
Someone is eating my anubias at night, do royal plecos eat plants? Each
day there is a little more eaten off the edges. Grrr.
I want this to be a planted tank, is that possible w/ him?

This pleco is about 7" long, would he be OK if I bought some smaller
community fish? I don't want to buy them and have them turn into pleco
food.

I see that this type is around $35 at only 4". What should I ask for if
I decide to sell him at 7-8"? (But I want to keep him if he will work
with the community.)

~Many thanks,
Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18182 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: Treatment for Electric Blue Jack Depmsey (EBJD)
here are 2 sites that may or may not help. They are very extensive in their
information and diseases.
_http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/_ (http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/)
_http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm_
(http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm)

I hope these help.

karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18183 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
It's your silver dollar who do that.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 12:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Royal Pleco questions

Someone is eating my anubias at night, do royal plecos eat plants? Each
day there is a little more eaten off the edges. Grrr.
I want this to be a planted tank, is that possible w/ him?

This pleco is about 7" long, would he be OK if I bought some smaller
community fish? I don't want to buy them and have them turn into pleco
food.

I see that this type is around $35 at only 4". What should I ask for if
I decide to sell him at 7-8"? (But I want to keep him if he will work
with the community.)

~Many thanks,
Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18184 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions
I WISH you could get him. I hate to get rid of him for fear he won't be
properly taken care of. I wish I had a better local network so I could
give him to someone who really valued him.

I did make a deal w/ the good LFS (not so local, it's an hour away) on
the clown loaches. They are going to give me a credit of $10 each
loach. I like this store a lot and I know they will be taken care of
there. (The closer LFS also offered me $10 but I don't like the way
they operate.) I'll likely get some plants from the better store w/ my
credit. But I need to work on some lights first.

My silver dollars are eating my plants? I never see them eat anything
but they are eating my plants. hhmmph. I suppose they too must find
new homes then.

I did just see a LOACH eating one!!! It was the biggest one, he was
nibbling at the edges. I chucked in some algae wafers and he began to
gnaw on those instead. eeeesh!

L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com [mailto:UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:37 PM
To: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions






It’s your silver dollar , don’t sell the pleco I will go get it
tomorrow morning, sorry , I forgot I can not bring water in the plane
:-(






_____


De : UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com [mailto:UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 12:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions



Someone is eating my anubias at night, do royal plecos eat plants? Each
day there is a little more eaten off the edges. Grrr.

I want this to be a planted tank, is that possible w/ him?



This pleco is about 7" long, would he be OK if I bought some smaller
community fish? I don't want to buy them and have them turn into pleco
food.



I see that this type is around $35 at only 4". What should I ask for if
I decide to sell him at 7-8"? (But I want to keep him if he will work
with the community.)



~Many thanks,

Leslie















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18185 From: Rebecca Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Hello,

I was wondering if anyone could help me identify this strange thing I
saw in my tank...

Several hours after lights out (but aquarium moonlight on) I saw a
thin, wormlike creature swimming like an eel in my aquarium. It was
at least several inches long and I think reddish. When I flicked the
lights on to catch it, it dug into my substrate under a piece of
driftwood and was gone.

I've been looking things up but can't seem to find anything that would
match the description besides various eels. Which, really, it couldn't
be... could it? It couldn't be ... right?

I don't know if it matters but let me give you a basic rundown of my
tank:
-30 gallons, cycled
-Eco-complete and Flourite substrate
-Very planted Tank
***Every inch of substrate is planted
***Floating plants include: frogbit, duckweed, water lettuce.
***I have a taiwan moss wall... the moss was imported from Asia
*** I soak the plants in a potassium permanganate solution before I
add them to the tank. But with floating plants (especially the moss)
I'm not sure the soak was uniform for each plant. (perhaps an egg
survived)
-There are other creepy crawlies in my tank: Ostracods (harmless), I
saw a nematode and a planaria once, I've found a pond snail or two but
killed them and haven't seen any more in months. I also have a couple
of springtails on the surface of the aquarium.
- Purposefully indroduced aquarium inhabitants: White Cloud Mountain
Minnows, Dwarf Platies, ottos, tetra

So, any ideas? Am I in trouble? Will it escape from the aquarium and
devour me as I sleep, LOL?!

Thanks for any help,
Rebecca


Rebecca
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18186 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions
Leslie the silver will not eat the anubia they will only bite them, but the
other soft plant will became their salade. Java will also survive, but get
bite also, I'm growing Bolbitis heteroclita , especially for their tank,
it's a stiff plants.

You have nice fish, don't sell them, get an other tank.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 14:23
À : UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] RE: [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions

I WISH you could get him. I hate to get rid of him for fear he won't be
properly taken care of. I wish I had a better local network so I could
give him to someone who really valued him.

I did make a deal w/ the good LFS (not so local, it's an hour away) on
the clown loaches. They are going to give me a credit of $10 each
loach. I like this store a lot and I know they will be taken care of
there. (The closer LFS also offered me $10 but I don't like the way
they operate.) I'll likely get some plants from the better store w/ my
credit. But I need to work on some lights first.

My silver dollars are eating my plants? I never see them eat anything
but they are eating my plants. hhmmph. I suppose they too must find
new homes then.

I did just see a LOACH eating one!!! It was the biggest one, he was
nibbling at the edges. I chucked in some algae wafers and he began to
gnaw on those instead. eeeesh!

L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com [mailto:UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:37 PM
To: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions






It’s your silver dollar , don’t sell the pleco I will go get it
tomorrow morning, sorry , I forgot I can not bring water in the plane
:-(






_____


De : UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com [mailto:UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 12:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions



Someone is eating my anubias at night, do royal plecos eat plants? Each
day there is a little more eaten off the edges. Grrr.

I want this to be a planted tank, is that possible w/ him?



This pleco is about 7" long, would he be OK if I bought some smaller
community fish? I don't want to buy them and have them turn into pleco
food.



I see that this type is around $35 at only 4". What should I ask for if
I decide to sell him at 7-8"? (But I want to keep him if he will work
with the community.)



~Many thanks,

Leslie















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18187 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
Well I moved it into a 30 gallon tank, it is on driftwood. I noticed my
java fern is no where to be found. That could have been devoured by
anyone I guess. grrrr.

L


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 2:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions



Leslie the silver will not eat the anubia they will only bite them, but
the
other soft plant will became their salade. Java will also survive, but
get
bite also, I'm growing Bolbitis heteroclita , especially for their tank,
it's a stiff plants.

You have nice fish, don't sell them, get an other tank.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 14:23
À : UniQuaria@yahoogrou <mailto:UniQuaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] RE: [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions

I WISH you could get him. I hate to get rid of him for fear he won't be
properly taken care of. I wish I had a better local network so I could
give him to someone who really valued him.

I did make a deal w/ the good LFS (not so local, it's an hour away) on
the clown loaches. They are going to give me a credit of $10 each
loach. I like this store a lot and I know they will be taken care of
there. (The closer LFS also offered me $10 but I don't like the way
they operate.) I'll likely get some plants from the better store w/ my
credit. But I need to work on some lights first.

My silver dollars are eating my plants? I never see them eat anything
but they are eating my plants. hhmmph. I suppose they too must find
new homes then.

I did just see a LOACH eating one!!! It was the biggest one, he was
nibbling at the edges. I chucked in some algae wafers and he began to
gnaw on those instead. eeeesh!

L

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: UniQuaria@yahoogrou <mailto:UniQuaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
[mailto:UniQuaria@yahoogrou <mailto:UniQuaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com]
On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:37 PM
To: UniQuaria@yahoogrou <mailto:UniQuaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: RE: [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions

It’s your silver dollar , don’t sell the pleco I will go get it
tomorrow morning, sorry , I forgot I can not bring water in the plane
:-(

_____

De : UniQuaria@yahoogrou <mailto:UniQuaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
[mailto:UniQuaria@yahoogrou <mailto:UniQuaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com]
De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 12:26
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogrou <mailto:fishgeeks%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Objet : [UniQuaria] Royal Pleco questions

Someone is eating my anubias at night, do royal plecos eat plants? Each
day there is a little more eaten off the edges. Grrr.

I want this to be a planted tank, is that possible w/ him?

This pleco is about 7" long, would he be OK if I bought some smaller
community fish? I don't want to buy them and have them turn into pleco
food.

I see that this type is around $35 at only 4". What should I ask for if
I decide to sell him at 7-8"? (But I want to keep him if he will work
with the community.)

~Many thanks,

Leslie

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18188 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Sounds like a leech. I think most of them are detritivores. I wouldn't worry
about it.
Emily


On 8/22/06, Rebecca <rebeccakarol@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I was wondering if anyone could help me identify this strange thing I
> saw in my tank...
>
> Several hours after lights out (but aquarium moonlight on) I saw a
> thin, wormlike creature swimming like an eel in my aquarium. It was
> at least several inches long and I think reddish. When I flicked the
> lights on to catch it, it dug into my substrate under a piece of
> driftwood and was gone.
>
> I've been looking things up but can't seem to find anything that would
> match the description besides various eels. Which, really, it couldn't
> be... could it? It couldn't be ... right?
>
> I don't know if it matters but let me give you a basic rundown of my
> tank:
> -30 gallons, cycled
> -Eco-complete and Flourite substrate
> -Very planted Tank
> ***Every inch of substrate is planted
> ***Floating plants include: frogbit, duckweed, water lettuce.
> ***I have a taiwan moss wall... the moss was imported from Asia
> *** I soak the plants in a potassium permanganate solution before I
> add them to the tank. But with floating plants (especially the moss)
> I'm not sure the soak was uniform for each plant. (perhaps an egg
> survived)
> -There are other creepy crawlies in my tank: Ostracods (harmless), I
> saw a nematode and a planaria once, I've found a pond snail or two but
> killed them and haven't seen any more in months. I also have a couple
> of springtails on the surface of the aquarium.
> - Purposefully indroduced aquarium inhabitants: White Cloud Mountain
> Minnows, Dwarf Platies, ottos, tetra
>
> So, any ideas? Am I in trouble? Will it escape from the aquarium and
> devour me as I sleep, LOL?!
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Rebecca
>
> Rebecca
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18189 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/22/2006
Subject: Freshwater clams
any opinions on adding freshwater clams to a tank?
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18190 From: chris topher Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
i'm curious how it got into the tank...

woody


--- Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote:

> Sounds like a leech. I think most of them are
> detritivores. I wouldn't worry
> about it.
> Emily
>
>
> On 8/22/06, Rebecca <rebeccakarol@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone could help me identify
> this strange thing I
> > saw in my tank...
> >
> > Several hours after lights out (but aquarium
> moonlight on) I saw a
> > thin, wormlike creature swimming like an eel in my
> aquarium. It was
> > at least several inches long and I think reddish.
> When I flicked the
> > lights on to catch it, it dug into my substrate
> under a piece of
> > driftwood and was gone.
> >
> > I've been looking things up but can't seem to find
> anything that would
> > match the description besides various eels. Which,
> really, it couldn't
> > be... could it? It couldn't be ... right?
> >
> > I don't know if it matters but let me give you a
> basic rundown of my
> > tank:
> > -30 gallons, cycled
> > -Eco-complete and Flourite substrate
> > -Very planted Tank
> > ***Every inch of substrate is planted
> > ***Floating plants include: frogbit, duckweed,
> water lettuce.
> > ***I have a taiwan moss wall... the moss was
> imported from Asia
> > *** I soak the plants in a potassium permanganate
> solution before I
> > add them to the tank. But with floating plants
> (especially the moss)
> > I'm not sure the soak was uniform for each plant.
> (perhaps an egg
> > survived)
> > -There are other creepy crawlies in my tank:
> Ostracods (harmless), I
> > saw a nematode and a planaria once, I've found a
> pond snail or two but
> > killed them and haven't seen any more in months. I
> also have a couple
> > of springtails on the surface of the aquarium.
> > - Purposefully indroduced aquarium inhabitants:
> White Cloud Mountain
> > Minnows, Dwarf Platies, ottos, tetra
> >
> > So, any ideas? Am I in trouble? Will it escape
> from the aquarium and
> > devour me as I sleep, LOL?!
> >
> > Thanks for any help,
> > Rebecca
> >
> > Rebecca
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18191 From: harry perry Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!/Rebecca
Sounds like a leech to me also. It won't hurt anything. There are probably more than one. To get rid of them, take a tomato paste can, put a hole in it with a nail tie a string thru the hole put chunks of raw beef in the can squeeze the top shut you will have just little openings on the ends sink the can at night and pull it out before the light hits the tank. If you don't like horror movies don't look in the can. You might have to try this several times.

Harry.

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote: Sounds like a leech. I think most of them are detritivores. I wouldn't worry
about it.
Emily

On 8/22/06, Rebecca <rebeccakarol@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I was wondering if anyone could help me identify this strange thing I
> saw in my tank...
>
> Several hours after lights out (but aquarium moonlight on) I saw a
> thin, wormlike creature swimming like an eel in my aquarium. It was
> at least several inches long and I think reddish. When I flicked the
> lights on to catch it, it dug into my substrate under a piece of
> driftwood and was gone.
>
> I've been looking things up but can't seem to find anything that would
> match the description besides various eels. Which, really, it couldn't
> be... could it? It couldn't be ... right?
>
> I don't know if it matters but let me give you a basic rundown of my
> tank:
> -30 gallons, cycled
> -Eco-complete and Flourite substrate
> -Very planted Tank
> ***Every inch of substrate is planted
> ***Floating plants include: frogbit, duckweed, water lettuce.
> ***I have a taiwan moss wall... the moss was imported from Asia
> *** I soak the plants in a potassium permanganate solution before I
> add them to the tank. But with floating plants (especially the moss)
> I'm not sure the soak was uniform for each plant. (perhaps an egg
> survived)
> -There are other creepy crawlies in my tank: Ostracods (harmless), I
> saw a nematode and a planaria once, I've found a pond snail or two but
> killed them and haven't seen any more in months. I also have a couple
> of springtails on the surface of the aquarium.
> - Purposefully indroduced aquarium inhabitants: White Cloud Mountain
> Minnows, Dwarf Platies, ottos, tetra
>
> So, any ideas? Am I in trouble? Will it escape from the aquarium and
> devour me as I sleep, LOL?!
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Rebecca
>
> Rebecca
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18192 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
maybe came in on a plant or something

On 8/22/06, chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
>
> i'm curious how it got into the tank...
>
> woody
>
> --- Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> > Sounds like a leech. I think most of them are
> > detritivores. I wouldn't worry
> > about it.
> > Emily
> >
> >
> > On 8/22/06, Rebecca <rebeccakarol@...<rebeccakarol%40hotmail.com>
> >
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I was wondering if anyone could help me identify
> > this strange thing I
> > > saw in my tank...
> > >
> > > Several hours after lights out (but aquarium
> > moonlight on) I saw a
> > > thin, wormlike creature swimming like an eel in my
> > aquarium. It was
> > > at least several inches long and I think reddish.
> > When I flicked the
> > > lights on to catch it, it dug into my substrate
> > under a piece of
> > > driftwood and was gone.
> > >
> > > I've been looking things up but can't seem to find
> > anything that would
> > > match the description besides various eels. Which,
> > really, it couldn't
> > > be... could it? It couldn't be ... right?
> > >
> > > I don't know if it matters but let me give you a
> > basic rundown of my
> > > tank:
> > > -30 gallons, cycled
> > > -Eco-complete and Flourite substrate
> > > -Very planted Tank
> > > ***Every inch of substrate is planted
> > > ***Floating plants include: frogbit, duckweed,
> > water lettuce.
> > > ***I have a taiwan moss wall... the moss was
> > imported from Asia
> > > *** I soak the plants in a potassium permanganate
> > solution before I
> > > add them to the tank. But with floating plants
> > (especially the moss)
> > > I'm not sure the soak was uniform for each plant.
> > (perhaps an egg
> > > survived)
> > > -There are other creepy crawlies in my tank:
> > Ostracods (harmless), I
> > > saw a nematode and a planaria once, I've found a
> > pond snail or two but
> > > killed them and haven't seen any more in months. I
> > also have a couple
> > > of springtails on the surface of the aquarium.
> > > - Purposefully indroduced aquarium inhabitants:
> > White Cloud Mountain
> > > Minnows, Dwarf Platies, ottos, tetra
> > >
> > > So, any ideas? Am I in trouble? Will it escape
> > from the aquarium and
> > > devour me as I sleep, LOL?!
> > >
> > > Thanks for any help,
> > > Rebecca
> > >
> > > Rebecca
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18193 From: Annie Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: AQUARIUM ACCESSORIES!!
This is a new group for buying-selling-trading-or giving away anything
To do with aquariums!! Got fish etc you don't want to take when you
move?
Want to change tank Decor? Want to go with a bigger or smaller tank?
Got anything you don't want, or can't use? Then this is the group for
you!!
PLEASE~Tell your tank friends about us, & come on in & check us out!
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquariumAccessories
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18194 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
well where did the driftwood come from? maybe there were eggs in that?

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote: maybe came in on a plant or something

On 8/22/06, chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
>
> i'm curious how it got into the tank...
>
> woody
>
> --- Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> > Sounds like a leech. I think most of them are
> > detritivores. I wouldn't worry
> > about it.
> > Emily
> >
> >
> > On 8/22/06, Rebecca <rebeccakarol@...<rebeccakarol%40hotmail.com>
> >
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I was wondering if anyone could help me identify
> > this strange thing I
> > > saw in my tank...
> > >
> > > Several hours after lights out (but aquarium
> > moonlight on) I saw a
> > > thin, wormlike creature swimming like an eel in my
> > aquarium. It was
> > > at least several inches long and I think reddish.
> > When I flicked the
> > > lights on to catch it, it dug into my substrate
> > under a piece of
> > > driftwood and was gone.
> > >
> > > I've been looking things up but can't seem to find
> > anything that would
> > > match the description besides various eels. Which,
> > really, it couldn't
> > > be... could it? It couldn't be ... right?
> > >
> > > I don't know if it matters but let me give you a
> > basic rundown of my
> > > tank:
> > > -30 gallons, cycled
> > > -Eco-complete and Flourite substrate
> > > -Very planted Tank
> > > ***Every inch of substrate is planted
> > > ***Floating plants include: frogbit, duckweed,
> > water lettuce.
> > > ***I have a taiwan moss wall... the moss was
> > imported from Asia
> > > *** I soak the plants in a potassium permanganate
> > solution before I
> > > add them to the tank. But with floating plants
> > (especially the moss)
> > > I'm not sure the soak was uniform for each plant.
> > (perhaps an egg
> > > survived)
> > > -There are other creepy crawlies in my tank:
> > Ostracods (harmless), I
> > > saw a nematode and a planaria once, I've found a
> > pond snail or two but
> > > killed them and haven't seen any more in months. I
> > also have a couple
> > > of springtails on the surface of the aquarium.
> > > - Purposefully indroduced aquarium inhabitants:
> > White Cloud Mountain
> > > Minnows, Dwarf Platies, ottos, tetra
> > >
> > > So, any ideas? Am I in trouble? Will it escape
> > from the aquarium and
> > > devour me as I sleep, LOL?!
> > >
> > > Thanks for any help,
> > > Rebecca
> > >
> > > Rebecca
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18195 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
should of waited a few more weeks to let the new live rock settle in

Hope <wildkids3@...> wrote: Just joined the group..This saltwater thing is very new to us..
My husband has a 70 gallon tank he set up a few weeks ago..He has a
little live rock in it..snails and crabs are doing fine..We allowed
it to cycle for about 4 weeks before we put the snails and crabs
in..Waited until they were in there for about 2 weeks..He put a
bunch of new liverock into the tank..let it set for a week..Then
purchased 3 damsel fish and a chromis..By the next morning the
chromis and one damsel had died..I told him to take out the liverock
and introduce it more slowly..I researched and read that that's how
it should be done..
The readings come back fine on the water..His brother owns a Live
Saltwater store..And we have the water tested at least once a week
if not more..His brother gave him another filter..But the water is
very murky looking now..It was very clear before he took the other
liverock out..So I'm just not real sure what's going on with it..
Anyone have any ideas??
He's so excited about having this tank, but is becomeing very
flustered..
I'm wondering if he should drain it and start over..But he will not
like that..

Thanks for any advice..
Hope,






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18196 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1038 I believe this is the "catfish" you were talking about although its not a catfish but a pleco.

Leslie <5moores@...> wrote: I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18197 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: bettas question
he spreads his gills because they are territory fish. if he sees his reflection in anyway he will do that.

agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
yea its not pop eye but kinda sounded like it I think it might be more of a
gill thingy he is doing it like you said but no nests but its freaking me
out looks scary lol Shannon

If his eyes are bulging and have white rings around them, he has popeye.
There is a medication available at the pet store for it......It is called
Maracyn-Two and comes in tablets you put in the tank every day.........If his eyes
are bulging and have white rings around them, he has popeye. There is a
medication available at the pet store for it......It is called Maracyn-Two and

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18198 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
im just getting this now but you do need to cure live rock everytime it is taken out of water and transported. things sufficate and die even though you put wet newspaper on them. hows your tank now?

Hope Livingston <wildkids3@...> wrote: No, the liverock was not cured properly..It was one of
those things, where I say..I read you have to do this
and he says..But my brother says their ready
now..Maybe he will listen to me more..LOL!!
The snails, crabs and one damsel are all fine and
thriving..
Freshwater I have no problem with..I've had my
freshwater tank for quite sometime now..And it's
crystal clear..

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Hope, was the live rock cured? If not you should
> always cure live rock in a seperate tank,lots of
> micro critters do die in the rock as well as
> attached corals and sponges.
> To cure rock you first remove any thing ithat looks
> dead, wash it real well in a bucket of saltwater
> before placeing it in a seperate tank to cure, and
> do 1/2 water changes for days, untill the tanks
> stays clear, this can take a week or so.
> PH will fall when the polution is high , and will
> kill the damsels, crabs, and snails. If the tank
> water is cloudy, I dont see how the water test came
> back normal, low PH, and ammonia will make the tank
> cloudy.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18199 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
so does this brother in law sell live rock online?

Hope Livingston <wildkids3@...> wrote: The little bit of liverock that is in the tank is from
an exsisting aquarium..his brother gave it to him to
start..not alot..But some..there is also crushed corol
and live sand from one of his tanks in his store..So
all of the above is from an exsisting tank..
I called my hubby at work and told him all that you
said..I believe he's going to have his water tested
again tomorrow..

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Hope...... you need live nitrifying bacteria from an
> exsisting aquarium. Can you go to your brothers
> store and get cured rock, live sand from a deepsand
> bed, or gravel (dolomite or crushed coral), older
> the tank the better. This will seed in Nitrosococcus
> and Nitrococcus bacterias and they will eatup the
> ammonias, you also need to do a 50% water change
> more than likly. Can you get your water tested and
> give me the reading?
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hope Livingston
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 1:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..
>
>
> How does one lower the ammonia??
>
> --- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> > Yes, ammonia is very acidic, driving the PH down
> in
> > either fresh or saltwater. If you have marine
> fish
> > cycling the tank, its not the ammonia that kills
> > them but the PH. Ammonia occurs in two states
> > depending on the pH of the water. The unionized
> > state, NH3, is more toxic than the ionized
> state,
> > NH3+4,. The unionized state can invade the body
> > tissue of marine animals much easier. Almost all
> > free ammonia in sea water with a normal pH is in
> the
> > ionized state, thus less toxic. As pH rises, the
> > less toxic ionized state decreases and the more
> > toxic unionized state increases. For example, a
> > toxic level of ammonia as NH3 may be present
> with a
> > pH of 8.4 being lethal , but the same level of
> > ammonia as NH3+4 with a pH of 7.8 may be
> tolerated.
> > Higher tank temperatures can also effect the
> > toxicity of ammonia..
> > 8.2 is a good PH at any time and what I strive
> to
> > maintain with all my marine aquariums, yet 8.0
> is
> > dangerously low and 7.8 is a death trap, with no
> > amm., no2 or no3. Many times when curing rock
> the PH
> > will fall rapidly, killing even more inhabitants
> of
> > the rock, water changes and protein skimming is
> the
> > only thing I know to do, I also use a deep sand
> bed
> > in curing tanks,due to the large colonies of
> > nitrifying bacteria.
> >
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
>
> __________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18200 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
yep...he is prolly the culprit. My common plecos, bulldog pleco, and dwarf
albino pleco occasionally decide they want something other than their algae
disks. Plecos are usually good with any tank mates as they leave them alone
and have armored bodies so that even the more aggressive tank mates cant
really harm them.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, 22 August 2006 11:26
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Royal Pleco questions



Someone is eating my anubias at night, do royal plecos eat plants? Each
day there is a little more eaten off the edges. Grrr.
I want this to be a planted tank, is that possible w/ him?

This pleco is about 7" long, would he be OK if I bought some smaller
community fish? I don't want to buy them and have them turn into pleco
food.

I see that this type is around $35 at only 4". What should I ask for if
I decide to sell him at 7-8"? (But I want to keep him if he will work
with the community.)

~Many thanks,
Leslie




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18201 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
there are two folders with the "130 freshwater" it is the first folder

Valeen Gonzalez <valeendgonzalez@...> wrote: i only see pictures of turtles in the "130 fresh water" photo album.

Leslie <5moores@...> wrote: I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18202 From: raliegh11 Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Digi Mate 3 in 1 Temperature/ Specific Gravity / Salinity Meter
Hey All,

I purchased these water meters in bulk with a bunch of friends who
also have salt water tanks. We have a few left over and I thought I
would offer them to the group members at a discounted price. The JBJ
model of this meter sells for $100+. We are looking to sell them for
$60.

It's a 3 in 1 hand held digital thermometer, salinity, and specific
gravity meter. Take a look at the pictures on the link below.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i120/pricetank/Meter006.jpg

Here are the Specifics:

Its a 3 in 1 meter
Thermometer 0~100 degrees F
Specific Gravity 1.000~1.032
Salinity 5ppt~40ppt
Automatic Temp. Compensation

Includes calibration fluid, an extra set of batteries, instructions,
and a box to keep it in.

It has definitely helped me to save time maintaining my tank. Let me
know if you're interested, and email me with any questions or
comments to pricetank@... .

Thanks,

J
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18203 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
No he doesn't..He doesn't have an online store..Just a
local store..

--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> so does this brother in law sell live rock online?


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18204 From: Judy R Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with a Pacu
Hi Gerard,

I'm an angelfish and discus lover myself. However, I forwarded your link to my fiance, who has experience and also keeps Piranhas. He said that the fish in the picture are Pygocentrus Caribes. He said the dark spot behind the gill is characteristic of the Caribe. He also said that one way of determining the difference between a pacu and a pirahna is by their teeth. A Pacu has two rows of teeth on the bottom and a Piranha has only one row of "razor" sharp teeth and their mouth is very strong looking in appearance. I hope this helps!

Judy




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18205 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with a Pacu
Thanks, Judy, this morning I check the teeth, It'S A Colossoma
branchypomus, (silver pacu) the Pygocentrus caribe (black-eared piranha)
have the black spot at the back or the Operculum, the silver pacu is on the
Operculum, after I send this email a pass many hour of research on
internet. The healthy fish is in isolation tank he is a very good
swimmer, he make dance and eat nearly in my hand, I already order epoxy
paint to build him a concrete tank. ( he will come 12" long in few month )
I will find him partner, large one. Style Clown Knife and Black Pacu

Gerard







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Judy R
Envoyé : 23 août, 2006 15:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Problem with a Pacu

Hi Gerard,

I'm an angelfish and discus lover myself. However, I forwarded your link
to my fiance, who has experience and also keeps Piranhas. He said that the
fish in the picture are Pygocentrus Caribes. He said the dark spot behind
the gill is characteristic of the Caribe. He also said that one way of
determining the difference between a pacu and a pirahna is by their teeth.
A Pacu has two rows of teeth on the bottom and a Piranha has only one row of
"razor" sharp teeth and their mouth is very strong looking in appearance. I
hope this helps!

Judy




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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18206 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
I have been seeing this a lot on this list. People reporting things about
wormlike creatures and weird things floating around in the water, could any of
this be related to the quality of the livestock we are getting? Could it be
costing livestock owners more money to keep everything clean? Or is thins all
just the norm. I have never had any of this issues in my tanks. "Knock on
wood" and I have had stuff come in from Ebay.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18207 From: Mel Bowman Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: stretched out male molly
Hi everyone,
My male molly is acting strangely. His body almost seems stretched out from belly to tail and he's having trouble moving his tailfin. I've seen this once before in a female molly in another tank, and it died. I also noticed a small tear in the back fin, but otherwise nothing that looks like an infection. My tank is now exclusively mollies with one rubbernose pleco and one angelicus loach. All the other mollies look fine. Right now I have him in a breeder basket in the tank so he doesnt have to swim so hard. He's not particularly interested in eating.

Anyone know what's wrong with him? It's so strange looking!
Mel


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18208 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
things like driftwood should be soaked in a solution of a cap of bleech per gallon of water in a bucket for a couple of days. then aired dryed for a few more days. Thats what you should do when buying online anywhere. The driftwood in LFS has already had this done thats why they look white colored. They can come on live plants too but unfortunately i dont know anything to get them off that lol. It is normal for the business of having pets.

Morganawolf1@... wrote: I have been seeing this a lot on this list. People reporting things about
wormlike creatures and weird things floating around in the water, could any of
this be related to the quality of the livestock we are getting? Could it be
costing livestock owners more money to keep everything clean? Or is thins all
just the norm. I have never had any of this issues in my tanks. "Knock on
wood" and I have had stuff come in from Ebay.

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18209 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Leech are mostly detrivores, one time I get out the water of a lake with 7
on me.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Emily Tenczar
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 16:40
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!

Sounds like a leech. I think most of them are detritivores. I wouldn't worry
about it.
Emily


On 8/22/06, Rebecca <rebeccakarol@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I was wondering if anyone could help me identify this strange thing I
> saw in my tank...
>
> Several hours after lights out (but aquarium moonlight on) I saw a
> thin, wormlike creature swimming like an eel in my aquarium. It was
> at least several inches long and I think reddish. When I flicked the
> lights on to catch it, it dug into my substrate under a piece of
> driftwood and was gone.
>
> I've been looking things up but can't seem to find anything that would
> match the description besides various eels. Which, really, it couldn't
> be... could it? It couldn't be ... right?
>
> I don't know if it matters but let me give you a basic rundown of my
> tank:
> -30 gallons, cycled
> -Eco-complete and Flourite substrate
> -Very planted Tank
> ***Every inch of substrate is planted
> ***Floating plants include: frogbit, duckweed, water lettuce.
> ***I have a taiwan moss wall... the moss was imported from Asia
> *** I soak the plants in a potassium permanganate solution before I
> add them to the tank. But with floating plants (especially the moss)
> I'm not sure the soak was uniform for each plant. (perhaps an egg
> survived)
> -There are other creepy crawlies in my tank: Ostracods (harmless), I
> saw a nematode and a planaria once, I've found a pond snail or two but
> killed them and haven't seen any more in months. I also have a couple
> of springtails on the surface of the aquarium.
> - Purposefully indroduced aquarium inhabitants: White Cloud Mountain
> Minnows, Dwarf Platies, ottos, tetra
>
> So, any ideas? Am I in trouble? Will it escape from the aquarium and
> devour me as I sleep, LOL?!
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Rebecca
>
> Rebecca
>
>
>


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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18210 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: bettas question
yea I had heard they do that it was just odd to see it I guess as I have had
them for like 10 years and never seen one do it before.. Shannon




he spreads his gills because they are territory fish. if he sees his
reflection in anyway he will do that.

_agentscullyeyore@agentsc_ (mailto:agentscullyeyore@...) wrote:
yea its not pop eye but kinda sounded like it I think it might be more of a
gill thingy he is doing it like you said but no nests but its freaking me
out looks scary lol Shannon

If his eyes are bulging and have white rings around them, he has popeye.
There is a medication available at the pet store for it......It is called
Maracyn-Two and comes in tablets you put in the tank every
day.........Maracyn-Two
are bulging and have white rings around them, he has popeye. There is a
medication available at the pet store for it......It is called Maracyn-Two
and








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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18211 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a Pacu)
News from the Pacu

My new pacu is with 2 clown loach, since 2 day I drop all the snail I have
in the tank, they disappear , so I said those clown are good, now I just
drop 30 of them, and it's not the clown, it's the pacu, he crack them like I
crack chips......

So top of the list of snail eater, The Pacu

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18212 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: stretched out male molly
it sounds like molly disease try adding one teaspoon of freshwater salt per gallon to the tank.


Mel Bowman <swismiself@...> wrote:
Hi everyone,
My male molly is acting strangely. His body almost seems stretched out from belly to tail and he's having trouble moving his tailfin. I've seen this once before in a female molly in another tank, and it died. I also noticed a small tear in the back fin, but otherwise nothing that looks like an infection. My tank is now exclusively mollies with one rubbernose pleco and one angelicus loach. All the other mollies look fine. Right now I have him in a breeder basket in the tank so he doesnt have to swim so hard. He's not particularly interested in eating.

Anyone know what's wrong with him? It's so strange looking!
Mel


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18213 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: What to do with this fish eater ?
Hello all I will dig a pound between the lake and the house, but I
may have a problem for the fish of the new pound, do you have idea to
keep my friend out of the pound, It's 5 years he live with us , every
spring he come back.

See the link

http://www.aqualab.ca/heron.htm

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18214 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: What to do with this fish eater ?
Sink flower pots and loads of flat rocks propped up on other rocks in
the pond, as well as several floating pond plants to cover the surface
for the fish to hide in. Also, you might want to sink some nylon
netting or even chicken wire a couple of inches below the surface, so
that it feels odd to his feet so he'll find other places to go. Just
keep an eye on him so he doesn't get tangled in the wire/netting, and
make sure the wire, netting is really well anchored around the edges.

I love the blue herons, and our raccoons, but they do play havoc with
the fishies, don't they?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18215 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Questions..
what type of decorations do you have in there?

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: Hope, thats hard to beleave, are you sure it 8.8 ?
Marine aquariums tend to go down not up ,especally if it cycleing. I have been doing marine tanks for 30 years and never seen a PH of 8.8 ever!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Questions..

He tested the water this morning..PH is 8.8..So he needs to get that
down..

Hope,

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> That is good news !! It would still be nice to know the water
conditions, I would get the water checked for Ammonia,nitrite,nitrate
and PH.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hope Livingston
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 9:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions..

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18216 From: harry perry Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: What to do with this fish eater ?/Gerard
Some folks use netting from a pond supply store just for this purpose. Your friend will eat all your fish.

Harry

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Hello all I will dig a pound between the lake and the house, but I
may have a problem for the fish of the new pound, do you have idea to
keep my friend out of the pound, It's 5 years he live with us , every
spring he come back.

See the link

http://www.aqualab.ca/heron.htm

Gerard






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18217 From: emtfirefly Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Giant Gouramis
OK does anyone know where I can get a giant gourami. I am from the
Michigan area and looking to purchase a giant gourami, I would prefer
the albino pink one if possible in the juvenile stage. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18218 From: emtfirefly Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: In Search of Giant Gourami
Hello Everyone!
I am new to the group. Basically for one purpose right now but
hopefully to learn more and grow in this area of my new hobby. A
couple months ago I was at a doctor;s office. I happened to look at
the fish tank only to be startled by the ugliest but yet the cutiest
and most personallity in a fish I have ever seen. I felt like he was
starring back at me smiling and this gorgeous creature was a giant
gourami that was approx 16inchs long. For the 2 hours that I waited in
office I starred in amazment at this fish, onlyt o notice that it had
its own personality. I have been searching frantically for this fish
in local pet stores, and aquariums shops only to wind up with no luck.
I was wondering if anyone here has any idea if I can find one off the
internet or if anyone knows of a giant gourami breeder in the michigan
area. I have been numerous research for the past couple of months on
this fish and I am just ready to add this awesome specimen to my water
world. Thank You. EmtFireFly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18219 From: wendie Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: What to do with this fish eater ?/Gerard
LOL his cousin cleaned out my nephew's pond.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 7:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What to do with this fish eater ?/Gerard


Some folks use netting from a pond supply store just for this purpose.
Your friend will eat all your fish.

Harry

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Hello all I will dig a pound
between the lake and the house, but I
may have a problem for the fish of the new pound, do you have idea to
keep my friend out of the pound, It's 5 years he live with us , every
spring he come back.

See the link

http://www.aqualab.ca/heron.htm

Gerard





Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small
Business.

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18220 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a ...
Clown Loaches eat snails. Its a fact.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18221 From: Rebecca Date: 8/23/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Hello all and thanks for all the imput on what the icky thing could
be :)

As to the speculation on where it came from...

1.) I have a *very* planted, open tank with plants from several
online stores located in the US. I did, however, get one shipment of
Taiwan Moss from Malasyia. I soaked all of my plants in a solution
of potassium permanganate for a half hour. The floating plants
(frogbit, water lettuce and *the Taiwan moss*) were harder to soak
uniformly. Perhaps a frond here or there sticking out escaped a
sufficient dose of the Potassium soak?

2.)I have 2 small pieces of driftwood the first one I bought from an
online aquatic plant place. It was already cured and planted with an
anubias. The second one I got from a fish store. The second piece
you could tell was not sterile at *all*. There were snail shells and
other stuff inside of the driftwood pieces. When I got home I boiled
the driftwood for several hours. Then I dumped the water, rinsed the
driftwood, boiled it again for several hours, rinsed it again and
then once it cooled I put it in my tank. Wouldn't this have killed
stuff? I'm guessing now that the answer is "no!"

3.) I feed a variety of foods. Baby Brine Shrimp, frozen bloodworms,
frozen brine shrimp, many different flake foods. Perhaps these came
in on the foods?

4.) Perhaps already in the substrate? I used Eco-Complete and
Flourite. The flourite bag was torn but I washed it several times
before adding it (though only with water). It was on the floor of
the fish store, perhaps something there?

And I must admit this last icky thing is the last (and scariest) in
a long line of creepy-crawlies. I have Ostracods which I've read are
apparently impervious to most any chemical treatment (like my
potassium permanganate) and which are harmless/helpful and give my
fish a tasty live treat. I saw a nematode in my substrate awhile
ago. And I have a few springtails who jump around the surface of my
tank. Could they have brought in an egg?

Then, last night, in an effort to get the icky thing into the open I
put in a sinking waiffer. I saw a strange large-ish worm that looked
like a flat earthworm come out. But it didn't look or move anything
like the icky eel-like thing from the other night.

On the brite side I've never had water fleas or hydra! And I've only
ever had 2 snails survive to get into my tank and that despite the
evidence that there were snails living in almost all of my plants.
That's something at least... <sigh> :)

So, that about covers it. Did I do something really negligent that
allowed all this stuff in? For most of it (like the ostracods) I'm
sort of ok with it as they serve a purpose and are free fish-food.
But this last one I'm not so sure I can take a zen like attitude
about... ick! LOL

Rebecca
South Jersey, USA
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18222 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: What to do with this fish eater ?
Gerard, By far, the best Heron deterrent is probably a dog, but not
everyone has one or wants one. Aside from that, there are products on
the market such as the Scarecrow Detector System (operates on a 9 volt
battery), which activates by the motion of just such a bird landing in
its vicinity by both setting off a loud noise and blasting the bird
with a hefty stream from your garden hose (you hook the "Scarecrow" up
to your outside faucet).

There are other methods to get rid of Herons, which I shall describe:
One method that works well, if you keep rotating the deterrent, is to
use a replica Heron statue or model, which will dissuade any other
Heron from landing near your pond, as they are territorial birds. You
need to keep relocating your model Heron frequently so that your
visitor doesn't wise up to the fact you are using a dummy.

As previously pointed out, netting beneath the pond surface can work by
allowing the fish to dive beyond the Heron's reach, being now limited
by the netting, but the netting mesh must be at least somewhat larger
than the fish's body diameter so as not to trap them on top of the
netting, allowing the Heron easy pickings. You can't use submerged
chicken wire with fish 3" in diameter as these fish will already be
slightly larger than the wire mesh.

Its best if you can get rid of the Heron in the first place, and not
even allow him access to your pond. There are several ways to
accomplish this. (1.) Since Herons do not land in the pond proper, but
almost always land several feet away and walk (stalk) to the pond's
edge, this behavior can be taken advantage of by the pond keep since
Heron's legs are very sensitive. You need to erect a perimeter of
heavy, but invisable monofilament nylon fishing line completely around
the pond about 12 inches back from the pond edge and about 12" to 15"
high. As the heron approaches the pond edge, his legs will hit into
this line which will give him a good fright. In many cases, after the
first experience like this, they often never return.

(2.) One other thing you can try, which often works, is to carve a
fish out of wood and paint it bright orange. Then, unless you can find
the exact center of bouyancy, install 2 eye hooks in the bottom of this
dummy fish, and float it just beneath the pond surface with again heavy
nylon fishing line attached through the eye hooks and tied securely to
a heavy rock (you may need to place a small weight in the bottom of
this fish to keep it upright); this works best if you can keep some
slack in the line, but is not totally necessary. When the Heron grabs
this dummy fish and attempts to fly off with it, it will get yanked out
of his mouth in a startling manner. It usually only takes one time
like this to also prevent him from returning. These are all proven
methods to get rid of Herons.

I would like to mention, that to help prevent any Heron or Raccoon from
gaining access to your fish, to not build any area of your pond with
too gradual of a sloping edge. Gradually sloping edges make it easier
for these animal to get your fish, when the fish are in such areas.
While you don't need to build your pond's edges as a straight down drop
off, you should consider more aggressive sloping rather than more beach-
like conditions to help prevent predation. In short, except for bog
areas for some of your plants, do not have shallow areas where the fish
will swim that would make them easy pickings for a predator. Ray

P.S.: As a last resort, there are low electric fences made for pond
use, for just these same situations, which will give off a minor shock
yet are completely safe for the pond owner.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all I will dig a pound between the lake and the house, but I
> may have a problem for the fish of the new pound, do you have idea
to
> keep my friend out of the pound, It's 5 years he live with us , every
> spring he come back.
>
> See the link
>
> http://www.aqualab.ca/heron.htm
>
> Gerard
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18223 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: What to do with this fish eater ?
Ray I like your detection Idea, I will make try on this one what I can do
also is to put a back a frost fence between the lake and the pound, so the
only access will be in the front facing the house, it should limit him, for
the dog I have a Labrador , but I train her to specially not run after the
duck, and the deer, when I open the door in winter she make special
attention to no go disturb the deer. I dislike the idea of a net, but you
bring me an other problem the racoon. They better to behave or I will not
put them veggie every night :)






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Raymond Wetzel
Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 08:32
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: What to do with this fish eater ?

Gerard, By far, the best Heron deterrent is probably a dog, but not
everyone has one or wants one. Aside from that, there are products on
the market such as the Scarecrow Detector System (operates on a 9 volt
battery), which activates by the motion of just such a bird landing in
its vicinity by both setting off a loud noise and blasting the bird
with a hefty stream from your garden hose (you hook the "Scarecrow" up
to your outside faucet).

There are other methods to get rid of Herons, which I shall describe:
One method that works well, if you keep rotating the deterrent, is to
use a replica Heron statue or model, which will dissuade any other
Heron from landing near your pond, as they are territorial birds. You
need to keep relocating your model Heron frequently so that your
visitor doesn't wise up to the fact you are using a dummy.

As previously pointed out, netting beneath the pond surface can work by
allowing the fish to dive beyond the Heron's reach, being now limited
by the netting, but the netting mesh must be at least somewhat larger
than the fish's body diameter so as not to trap them on top of the
netting, allowing the Heron easy pickings. You can't use submerged
chicken wire with fish 3" in diameter as these fish will already be
slightly larger than the wire mesh.

Its best if you can get rid of the Heron in the first place, and not
even allow him access to your pond. There are several ways to
accomplish this. (1.) Since Herons do not land in the pond proper, but
almost always land several feet away and walk (stalk) to the pond's
edge, this behavior can be taken advantage of by the pond keep since
Heron's legs are very sensitive. You need to erect a perimeter of
heavy, but invisable monofilament nylon fishing line completely around
the pond about 12 inches back from the pond edge and about 12" to 15"
high. As the heron approaches the pond edge, his legs will hit into
this line which will give him a good fright. In many cases, after the
first experience like this, they often never return.

(2.) One other thing you can try, which often works, is to carve a
fish out of wood and paint it bright orange. Then, unless you can find
the exact center of bouyancy, install 2 eye hooks in the bottom of this
dummy fish, and float it just beneath the pond surface with again heavy
nylon fishing line attached through the eye hooks and tied securely to
a heavy rock (you may need to place a small weight in the bottom of
this fish to keep it upright); this works best if you can keep some
slack in the line, but is not totally necessary. When the Heron grabs
this dummy fish and attempts to fly off with it, it will get yanked out
of his mouth in a startling manner. It usually only takes one time
like this to also prevent him from returning. These are all proven
methods to get rid of Herons.

I would like to mention, that to help prevent any Heron or Raccoon from
gaining access to your fish, to not build any area of your pond with
too gradual of a sloping edge. Gradually sloping edges make it easier
for these animal to get your fish, when the fish are in such areas.
While you don't need to build your pond's edges as a straight down drop
off, you should consider more aggressive sloping rather than more beach-
like conditions to help prevent predation. In short, except for bog
areas for some of your plants, do not have shallow areas where the fish
will swim that would make them easy pickings for a predator. Ray

P.S.: As a last resort, there are low electric fences made for pond
use, for just these same situations, which will give off a minor shock
yet are completely safe for the pond owner.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all I will dig a pound between the lake and the house, but I
> may have a problem for the fish of the new pound, do you have idea
to
> keep my friend out of the pound, It's 5 years he live with us , every
> spring he come back.
>
> See the link
>
> http://www.aqualab.ca/heron.htm
>
> Gerard
>






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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18224 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: ich
Depends on a number of factors. It would be difficult to even hazard a
guess.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of dragonman_999
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 3:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ich

How long does ich take to kill a fish?

Thanks
Mike






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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18225 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Don't do it. They can be difficult to keep alive, and when they die, you
have no way of knowing until the ammonia levels skyrocket as the clam
decomposes.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 9:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams

any opinions on adding freshwater clams to a tank?
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18226 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Neon Tetras with "white blob" on mouth
Is the "white blob" fuzzy or is it solid. If it is fuzzy, then it definitely
would be a fungus, and you would need to look at cures for fungus--mouth
fungus in particular. If it is solid, it may still be a fungus, but it could
also be other things.

The problem with the tail is probably due to another fish. You'll need to
pay a bit more attention to determine which fish may be doing it. If you
would list the other inhabitants of the tank, we could venture a guess.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of michelle276597
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 8:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Neon Tetras with "white blob" on mouth

Hello Everyone!

I am Michelle, living in England, my husband and I recently purchased
a house and with the house came a fish tank. The fish tank is under
the stairs plush against the wall so we call it a HD Plasma tv for the
cats as they now live on the dinning table watching the tank all
day ..anyway, last night we noticed that two of our neon tetras hav e
a white blob (we thought it was a tiny piece of food)at the end of
there mouths, the same fish also have hlaf a tail, the tails is not
ragged or fetheary - any ideas or suggestions?? Thugh we are new to
fish we are loving them!
Thanks in advance!








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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18227 From: snerticus Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Rebecca, the eel-like thing you saw doesn't sound like a leech to me,
although the earthworm-like flat worm you saw does. However, I
haven't had leeches (they came in with some blackworms I used to keep
and breed) in a few years. Most aquarium leeches are detritivores
and are nothing to worry about... that is unless you freak out from
the sight of them, which, by the way, I can certainly sympathize with
you on that! I probably shouldn't mention this, but there are
medicinal leeches that actually do feed on blood, I just don't have
any idea where they are found. I know aquarium leeches are
detritivores. However, the leeches I used to have (I actually bred
them in a jar with greenwater and fed them frozen fish food, they
bred like crazy!)never swam around "like an eel". They always moved
kind of like planaria or how you would imagine an inchworm would.
By "moving like an eel" I assume the worm-like creature was
undulating and moving through the water in a snake-like or eel-like
fashion. That doesn't sound like a typical leech to me. A worm
sounds more like it. To bad you couldn't take a look at it longer.
If you do happen to lure it out sometime, try to take a picture of it
at close range, it would be interesting to see. Please let me know
if you can observe it again, and describe it's actions and behavior.

Yep, in case you haven't guessed, I'm intrigued with freshwater
inverts, be it crustaceans, worms, molluscs, any kind of "icky"
looking thing. Of course, I do get grossed out every once in a
while, but that usually fades as I learn more about the inverts.
***************************************************************
> Then, last night, in an effort to get the icky thing into the open
I
> put in a sinking waiffer. I saw a strange large-ish worm that
looked
> like a flat earthworm come out. But it didn't look or move anything
> like the icky eel-like thing from the other night.
>
> On the brite side I've never had water fleas or hydra! And I've
only
> ever had 2 snails survive to get into my tank and that despite the
> evidence that there were snails living in almost all of my plants.
> That's something at least... <sigh> :)
>
> So, that about covers it. Did I do something really negligent that
> allowed all this stuff in? For most of it (like the ostracods) I'm
> sort of ok with it as they serve a purpose and are free fish-food.
> But this last one I'm not so sure I can take a zen like attitude
> about... ick! LOL
>
> Rebecca
> South Jersey, USA
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18228 From: snerticus Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Leslie, I am considering the same thing, but I have to agree with
Steve if you don't have experience with inverts. I have ostracods
and amphipods in my tanks and am considering adding a few clams to
them as well. The ostracods seem to be getting along swimmingly (no
pun intended ... ok ok, pun intended! :-p) and I feed my tiny fish
powdered fish food. I have green water containers that I want to
keep the clams in and then try out one or two in my one tank with
fish in it to see how they survive. Keep in mind, though that the
tank I will be putting them in has crushed coral as a substrate (so I
don't have to add any calcium supplementation) and
is becoming pretty heavily planted. I also put in vitamins
regularly, and plant suppements as well as iodine (for my snails and
shrimp). I would suggest if you keep inverts to research which
supplements may benefit them. I really do believe they are
interesting inhabitants once you learn how to keep them thriving.

I see them for sale on aquabid, and they are not that expensive, but
they are sold in pretty large quantities.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Don't do it. They can be difficult to keep alive, and when they
die, you
> have no way of knowing until the ammonia levels skyrocket as the
clam
> decomposes.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 9:21 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams
>
> any opinions on adding freshwater clams to a tank?
> Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18229 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
I have to say I'm am really fascinated by everything said so far. This
certainly isn't something I am going to jump into, but I would love to
be able to do it & do it correctly in the near future.
It's much like my live plant venture...I took a lot of time and reading
before I even went out to purchase one little plant! I made sure I had
adequate lighting, which of course now is completely inadequate since
we've added another 55 gallons of water. So the plants are waiting once
again.
I'm a patient person. If my conditions ever do suit clam needs, then I
will look into it further! And until then I will keep reading on it as
I'm really very interested in them. They seem to be an entirely
different league!

Many thanks to all,
Leslie


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of snerticus
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 10:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Freshwater clams



Leslie, I am considering the same thing, but I have to agree with
Steve if you don't have experience with inverts. I have ostracods
and amphipods in my tanks and am considering adding a few clams to
them as well. The ostracods seem to be getting along swimmingly (no
pun intended ... ok ok, pun intended! :-p) and I feed my tiny fish
powdered fish food. I have green water containers that I want to
keep the clams in and then try out one or two in my one tank with
fish in it to see how they survive. Keep in mind, though that the
tank I will be putting them in has crushed coral as a substrate (so I
don't have to add any calcium supplementation) and
is becoming pretty heavily planted. I also put in vitamins
regularly, and plant suppements as well as iodine (for my snails and
shrimp). I would suggest if you keep inverts to research which
supplements may benefit them. I really do believe they are
interesting inhabitants once you learn how to keep them thriving.

I see them for sale on aquabid, and they are not that expensive, but
they are sold in pretty large quantities.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Don't do it. They can be difficult to keep alive, and when they
die, you
> have no way of knowing until the ammonia levels skyrocket as the
clam
> decomposes.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 9:21 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogrou
<mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams
>
> any opinions on adding freshwater clams to a tank?
> Leslie







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18230 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
I have read into them and they do eat up a lot of uneaten food, rotten plant
matter. They eat up stuff that causes your nitrites to go up. However
Malaysian Trumpet snails do the same as well, but they tend to become out of
control in the breeding department. They breed worse than rabbits. You wind up with
hundreds. But, they don't eat plants.
I have a tankful of apple snails that are breeding out of control. But they
do great in cleaning my tank.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18231 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
There is definitely an easy way to find out if its dead. Take any type of
object, tap into its tonge and watch the reflex if there is any. If nitrites
ever start to skyrocket, I personally take a look all inside for anything dead.
Though I would rather go with the apple snails.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18232 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a ...
For some who have had an overpopulation with malaysian Trumpet snails, they
get clown loaches to help to get rid of them, and the clowns get nice and fat.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18233 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
While freshwater clams (mussels -- Anadonta cygnea) will filter up to
16 gallons a day on average, depending upon their size, the danger of
them dying and decaying without notice far outweighs any benefit
given by this function, in the aquarium. Further, consideration for
their proper requirements must be taken into consideration -- a
minimum 3" bed of fine sand is a prerequisite in keeping these
animals. If your substrate is made up of various layers of enriched
materials to promote the growth of plants, these materials may be
exposed at times, possibly causing roiling of the water. Then too,
some gravels may be too course for their best maintenance. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I have to say I'm am really fascinated by everything said so far.
This
> certainly isn't something I am going to jump into, but I would love
to
> be able to do it & do it correctly in the near future.
> It's much like my live plant venture...I took a lot of time and
reading
> before I even went out to purchase one little plant! I made sure I
had
> adequate lighting, which of course now is completely inadequate
since
> we've added another 55 gallons of water. So the plants are waiting
once
> again.
> I'm a patient person. If my conditions ever do suit clam needs,
then I
> will look into it further! And until then I will keep reading on
it as
> I'm really very interested in them. They seem to be an entirely
> different league!
>
> Many thanks to all,
> Leslie
>
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of snerticus
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 10:19 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Freshwater clams
>
>
>
> Leslie, I am considering the same thing, but I have to agree with
> Steve if you don't have experience with inverts. I have ostracods
> and amphipods in my tanks and am considering adding a few clams to
> them as well. The ostracods seem to be getting along swimmingly (no
> pun intended ... ok ok, pun intended! :-p) and I feed my tiny fish
> powdered fish food. I have green water containers that I want to
> keep the clams in and then try out one or two in my one tank with
> fish in it to see how they survive. Keep in mind, though that the
> tank I will be putting them in has crushed coral as a substrate (so
I
> don't have to add any calcium supplementation) and
> is becoming pretty heavily planted. I also put in vitamins
> regularly, and plant suppements as well as iodine (for my snails
and
> shrimp). I would suggest if you keep inverts to research which
> supplements may benefit them. I really do believe they are
> interesting inhabitants once you learn how to keep them thriving.
>
> I see them for sale on aquabid, and they are not that expensive,
but
> they are sold in pretty large quantities.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Don't do it. They can be difficult to keep alive, and when they
> die, you
> > have no way of knowing until the ammonia levels skyrocket as the
> clam
> > decomposes.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 9:21 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogrou
> <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams
> >
> > any opinions on adding freshwater clams to a tank?
> > Leslie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18234 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Hello all

Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver Dollar, half
dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C Tuesday
morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont reappear,
even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What I did
between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water, I start
yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning here, is
the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will think it's
because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the gravel
surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have is the
malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the dilemma, did I
push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp will
take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp treatment
. (Never have problem like that with ich before)

I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) , but that
also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before add to
that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18235 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
copper is better than the meds you are are using use aquaisol also what is the temp in F im not familuar with C

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Hello all

Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver Dollar, half
dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C Tuesday
morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont reappear,
even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What I did
between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water, I start
yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning here, is
the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will think it's
because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the gravel
surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have is the
malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the dilemma, did I
push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp will
take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp treatment
. (Never have problem like that with ich before)

I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) , but that
also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before add to
that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)

Gerard





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18236 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
31'c is 88' f I don't know for Aquarisol, even in their website AP sugest
Quick Cure for more resistant outbreaks they suggest clout but they said
about clout : DO NOT USE WITH:
Piranahas
Metynnis Species ( Silver)
Scaleless Fish
Bottom Feeders
Marine Sharks
Lion Fish
Invertebrates

Here a link


http://www.aq-products.com/Catalog/DIRECTIONS/AQUARI%20SOL.htm




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 13:33
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Severe Ich

copper is better than the meds you are are using use aquaisol also what is
the temp in F im not familuar with C

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Hello all

Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver Dollar, half
dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C Tuesday
morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont reappear,
even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What I did
between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water, I start
yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning here, is
the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will think it's
because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the gravel
surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have is the
malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the dilemma, did I
push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp will
take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp treatment
. (Never have problem like that with ich before)

I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) , but that
also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before add to
that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)

Gerard





__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18237 From: Kevin Batey Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Here's a neat little converter:

http://www.eskimo.com/~jet/javascript/convert.html



Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
31'c is 88' f I don't know for Aquarisol, even in their website AP sugest
Quick Cure for more resistant outbreaks they suggest clout but they said
about clout : DO NOT USE WITH:
Piranahas
Metynnis Species ( Silver)
Scaleless Fish
Bottom Feeders
Marine Sharks
Lion Fish
Invertebrates

Here a link

http://www.aq-products.com/Catalog/DIRECTIONS/AQUARI%20SOL.htm

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 13:33
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Severe Ich

copper is better than the meds you are are using use aquaisol also what is
the temp in F im not familuar with C

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Hello all

Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver Dollar, half
dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C Tuesday
morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont reappear,
even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What I did
between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water, I start
yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning here, is
the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will think it's
because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the gravel
surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have is the
malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the dilemma, did I
push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp will
take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp treatment
. (Never have problem like that with ich before)

I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) , but that
also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before add to
that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)

Gerard

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18238 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Several questions, as I'm not quite sure of what you are saying. Did
you mean to end a sentence (with a missing "period") after 31C, or
are you saying that you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday
morning and on the same day (Tuesday), there was no trace of Ich
anymore? Also, did you pre-heat the 3 gallons of replacement water
to 31C before you added it?

If you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday, it is still posible
to see the resergence of latent trophonts 48 hours later on Thursday
even though Ich's normal 48 hour cycle at just below that temperature
has been curtailed with the elevation of the temperature above 30C.
The addition of fresh water does not help matters either, if its
cooler than the 31C tank water.

If you are now treating the Silver Dollars with malachite green at
75% dosage, as you're saying, rather than 50% dosage you stand the
risk of stressing/overdosing the fish, possibly giving them cause to
expire in time, as you are suspecting. If this is how you dosed, I
would suggest giving the tank a 1/3 water change (of 31C degree
water), which will reduce the dosage from 75% to 50%.

There are virulent, resistant strains of Ich in existance that need a
temperature of at least 33.3C to eliminate them, but they are quite
rare although not impossible for your fish to have contracted, but
unless the physical signs of Ich are appearing to increase, I would
go with treating it as the normal strain, and rely on the temperature
(31C) to arrest the reproduction of the protozoan, maintaining that
temperature until at least 3 days (24 hours after its normal cycle is
completed) after seeing no further signs of the Ich before reducing
the temperature, as a precaution to not allow the resurgence of any
latent trophonts.

To my knowledge, I would think its impossible for Ich to complete its
life cycle without its host fish. Further, while Ich is ever-present
in surface water (lakes, ponds, streams, etc.), I find it difficult
to believe that it exists in well water, even if your only source of
water has been such. You are creating the opportunity to bring in
Ich spores with every fish introduction you are putting in your
tanks, from your LFS, even if you discard their water before putting
these fish in your tanks. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all
>
> Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver
Dollar, half
> dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C
Tuesday
> morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont
reappear,
> even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What
I did
> between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water,
I start
> yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning
here, is
> the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will
think it's
> because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the
gravel
> surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have
is the
> malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the
dilemma, did I
> push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp
will
> take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp
treatment
> . (Never have problem like that with ich before)
>
> I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) ,
but that
> also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before
add to
> that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)
>
> Gerard
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18239 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
I rise at 88 Saturday. So its now 7 days at 31, , of course i pre heat the 3
gal,

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Raymond Wetzel
Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 14:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Severe Ich

Several questions, as I'm not quite sure of what you are saying. Did
you mean to end a sentence (with a missing "period") after 31C, or
are you saying that you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday
morning and on the same day (Tuesday), there was no trace of Ich
anymore? Also, did you pre-heat the 3 gallons of replacement water
to 31C before you added it?

If you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday, it is still posible
to see the resergence of latent trophonts 48 hours later on Thursday
even though Ich's normal 48 hour cycle at just below that temperature
has been curtailed with the elevation of the temperature above 30C.
The addition of fresh water does not help matters either, if its
cooler than the 31C tank water.

If you are now treating the Silver Dollars with malachite green at
75% dosage, as you're saying, rather than 50% dosage you stand the
risk of stressing/overdosing the fish, possibly giving them cause to
expire in time, as you are suspecting. If this is how you dosed, I
would suggest giving the tank a 1/3 water change (of 31C degree
water), which will reduce the dosage from 75% to 50%.

There are virulent, resistant strains of Ich in existance that need a
temperature of at least 33.3C to eliminate them, but they are quite
rare although not impossible for your fish to have contracted, but
unless the physical signs of Ich are appearing to increase, I would
go with treating it as the normal strain, and rely on the temperature
(31C) to arrest the reproduction of the protozoan, maintaining that
temperature until at least 3 days (24 hours after its normal cycle is
completed) after seeing no further signs of the Ich before reducing
the temperature, as a precaution to not allow the resurgence of any
latent trophonts.

To my knowledge, I would think its impossible for Ich to complete its
life cycle without its host fish. Further, while Ich is ever-present
in surface water (lakes, ponds, streams, etc.), I find it difficult
to believe that it exists in well water, even if your only source of
water has been such. You are creating the opportunity to bring in
Ich spores with every fish introduction you are putting in your
tanks, from your LFS, even if you discard their water before putting
these fish in your tanks. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all
>
> Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver
Dollar, half
> dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C
Tuesday
> morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont
reappear,
> even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What
I did
> between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water,
I start
> yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning
here, is
> the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will
think it's
> because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the
gravel
> surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have
is the
> malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the
dilemma, did I
> push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp
will
> take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp
treatment
> . (Never have problem like that with ich before)
>
> I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) ,
but that
> also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before
add to
> that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)
>
> Gerard
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18240 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
clams are good for the tank for they syphon nitrates out of the water. there is some care that ppl dont know. they need reg calcium and trace elements added to the tank plus becarefull of medicines for most would kill invertibrates esp copper.
------------------------------------------------
Steve Szabo wrote:
Don't do it. They can be difficult to keep alive, and when they die, you have no way of knowing until the ammonia levels skyrocket as the clam decomposes.

\\Steve//
=============================================
Subject: [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams
any opinions on adding freshwater clams to a tank?
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18241 From: angel Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Hi. Just going to tell my ICK story…



I tried all medications… The last 3 times they had it the only thing that
would work is turning up the heater to 82 or 83 and set a glass on an angle
in the tank with aquarium salt in it. IT WORKED SO WELL.



HTH



Thanks a Bunch,



Angel Collis

Check out My Space...

http://www.myspace.com/xxangelc <http://angelslayouts.blogspot.com/>

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 2:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Severe Ich



31'c is 88' f I don't know for Aquarisol, even in their website AP sugest
Quick Cure for more resistant outbreaks they suggest clout but they said
about clout : DO NOT USE WITH:
Piranahas
Metynnis Species ( Silver)
Scaleless Fish
Bottom Feeders
Marine Sharks
Lion Fish
Invertebrates

Here a link

http://www.aq-
<http://www.aq-products.com/Catalog/DIRECTIONS/AQUARI%20SOL.htm>
products.com/Catalog/DIRECTIONS/AQUARI%20SOL.htm

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 13:33
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Severe Ich

copper is better than the meds you are are using use aquaisol also what is
the temp in F im not familuar with C

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca> wrote:
Hello all

Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver Dollar, half
dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C Tuesday
morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont reappear,
even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What I did
between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water, I start
yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning here, is
the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will think it's
because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the gravel
surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have is the
malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the dilemma, did I
push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp will
take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp treatment
. (Never have problem like that with ich before)

I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) , but that
also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before add to
that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)

Gerard

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18242 From: Gerard gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Keep them for your soup not in your tank,(not even sure they are eatable)
it's a sickness collector, like the snail, of course I use snail in a
planted aquarium, but in those tank I don't care about the fish, so if they
get sick and die they die, in the tank I have my valuable fish, no
invertebrates And what about if they die, you don't even notice it.

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 21:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams

any opinions on adding freshwater clams to a tank?
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18243 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Putting new items in a tank..
We have ordered some new items for our saltwater
tank..My question is..Should we put them in over a
period of a few weeks??
Hubby is doing some work at the shop for the items..So
we can have them order them on different weeks..
What we have requested..
sand sifting star..
Red star..
red sponge tree..
shaving brush..
mermaid fan..
feather duster..
and two damsels..

Thanks Hope,

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18244 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
That and some fish will try for them. Had a couple of them in one of my tanks last for 5 years. I had put in 3 clown loaches for snail control (mystery snails were out of control in that tank). They took care of the snails in nothing flat and I was in fact tossing in the occasional MTS snails from my filter when I would open it up for maint. They got big enough and decided they wanted some chowder. Was told by my niece that she watched them work the clams open and chow down. Told her she could keep the empty shells.

Still have 4 in my 60. (no loaches in there). My two cents. Going to go get some wood shrimp tonight. :D

-Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 8:28 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams


clams are good for the tank for they syphon nitrates out of the water. there is some care that ppl dont know. they need reg calcium and trace elements added to the tank plus becarefull of medicines for most would kill invertibrates esp copper.
------------------------------------------------
Steve Szabo wrote:
Don't do it. They can be difficult to keep alive, and when they die, you have no way of knowing until the ammonia levels skyrocket as the clam decomposes.

\\Steve//
=============================================
Subject: [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams
any opinions on adding freshwater clams to a tank?
Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18245 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Snails..
What kind of snails is it that multiply so fast??
We have a few snails in our tank..Were going to order
more..But not sure if I should now, if they are known
to multiply so fast..

Hope,

--- The Dragon Hunter
<dragon.hunter@...> wrote:

> That and some fish will try for them. Had a couple
> of them in one of my tanks last for 5 years. I had
> put in 3 clown loaches for snail control (mystery
> snails were out of control in that tank). They took
> care of the snails in nothing flat and I was in fact
> tossing in the occasional MTS snails from my filter
> when I would open it up for maint. They got big
> enough and decided they wanted some chowder. Was
> told by my niece that she watched them work the
> clams open and chow down. Told her she could keep
> the empty shells.
>
> Still have 4 in my 60. (no loaches in there). My
> two cents. Going to go get some wood shrimp
> tonight. :D
>
> -Steve


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18246 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
yes do it slowly if its a small tank of 20 gallons or less as for the damsels they are territorial and aggresive just so you know.

Hope Livingston <wildkids3@...> wrote: We have ordered some new items for our saltwater
tank..My question is..Should we put them in over a
period of a few weeks??
Hubby is doing some work at the shop for the items..So
we can have them order them on different weeks..
What we have requested..
sand sifting star..
Red star..
red sponge tree..
shaving brush..
mermaid fan..
feather duster..
and two damsels..

Thanks Hope,

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com





---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18247 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Snails..
what kind of snail you have now? if you dont know what it look like?

Hope Livingston <wildkids3@...> wrote: What kind of snails is it that multiply so fast??
We have a few snails in our tank..Were going to order
more..But not sure if I should now, if they are known
to multiply so fast..

Hope,

--- The Dragon Hunter
<dragon.hunter@...> wrote:

> That and some fish will try for them. Had a couple
> of them in one of my tanks last for 5 years. I had
> put in 3 clown loaches for snail control (mystery
> snails were out of control in that tank). They took
> care of the snails in nothing flat and I was in fact
> tossing in the occasional MTS snails from my filter
> when I would open it up for maint. They got big
> enough and decided they wanted some chowder. Was
> told by my niece that she watched them work the
> clams open and chow down. Told her she could keep
> the empty shells.
>
> Still have 4 in my 60. (no loaches in there). My
> two cents. Going to go get some wood shrimp
> tonight. :D
>
> -Steve

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com





---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18248 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
It's a 70 gallon tank..

--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> yes do it slowly if its a small tank of 20 gallons
> or less as for the damsels they are territorial and
> aggresive just so you know.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18249 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
I send this email 2 days ago, sometime they get lost in the mail..:)

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gerard gagnon
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 21:56
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams

Keep them for your soup not in your tank,(not even sure they are eatable)
it's a sickness collector, like the snail, of course I use snail in a
planted aquarium, but in those tank I don't care about the fish, so if they
get sick and die they die, in the tank I have my valuable fish, no
invertebrates And what about if they die, you don't even notice it.

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 21:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams

any opinions on adding freshwater clams to a tank?
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18250 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Ok I have more time now, first it's since Saturday the temp is at 31, I just
rise it at 34 now, I think what happen is the less virulent ich disappear
and the more strong one appears, interesting because before it was all over
the body, the new one are concentrate mainly on the fins, so I open the
light it will reduce very fast the malachite, and will stop those chemical,
since this kind of ich look resistant to it, so let use 34 for 48 hours We
will see, it will be certainly a good experience for me but not for the
fish, but silver do well at 28, so my guest is they can survive at 34 for s
short time, what I'M worry is more the aggressively who can show, I notice
already more activity at 31 ( normal) I will report the result tomorrow
evening

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Raymond Wetzel
Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 14:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Severe Ich

Several questions, as I'm not quite sure of what you are saying. Did
you mean to end a sentence (with a missing "period") after 31C, or
are you saying that you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday
morning and on the same day (Tuesday), there was no trace of Ich
anymore? Also, did you pre-heat the 3 gallons of replacement water
to 31C before you added it?

If you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday, it is still posible
to see the resergence of latent trophonts 48 hours later on Thursday
even though Ich's normal 48 hour cycle at just below that temperature
has been curtailed with the elevation of the temperature above 30C.
The addition of fresh water does not help matters either, if its
cooler than the 31C tank water.

If you are now treating the Silver Dollars with malachite green at
75% dosage, as you're saying, rather than 50% dosage you stand the
risk of stressing/overdosing the fish, possibly giving them cause to
expire in time, as you are suspecting. If this is how you dosed, I
would suggest giving the tank a 1/3 water change (of 31C degree
water), which will reduce the dosage from 75% to 50%.

There are virulent, resistant strains of Ich in existance that need a
temperature of at least 33.3C to eliminate them, but they are quite
rare although not impossible for your fish to have contracted, but
unless the physical signs of Ich are appearing to increase, I would
go with treating it as the normal strain, and rely on the temperature
(31C) to arrest the reproduction of the protozoan, maintaining that
temperature until at least 3 days (24 hours after its normal cycle is
completed) after seeing no further signs of the Ich before reducing
the temperature, as a precaution to not allow the resurgence of any
latent trophonts.

To my knowledge, I would think its impossible for Ich to complete its
life cycle without its host fish. Further, while Ich is ever-present
in surface water (lakes, ponds, streams, etc.), I find it difficult
to believe that it exists in well water, even if your only source of
water has been such. You are creating the opportunity to bring in
Ich spores with every fish introduction you are putting in your
tanks, from your LFS, even if you discard their water before putting
these fish in your tanks. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all
>
> Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver
Dollar, half
> dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C
Tuesday
> morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont
reappear,
> even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What
I did
> between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water,
I start
> yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning
here, is
> the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will
think it's
> because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the
gravel
> surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have
is the
> malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the
dilemma, did I
> push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp
will
> take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp
treatment
> . (Never have problem like that with ich before)
>
> I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) ,
but that
> also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before
add to
> that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)
>
> Gerard
>







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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18251 From: aquamaze@abe.midco.net Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Freshwater clams
Hi,

Freshwater clams are intersting, but you never see them as they stay pretty much into the subtrate. They are not worth the time or trouble and in fact I think they cause more trouble than not, for if they die, and you do not find them and chances are you will not, the amonia etc will rise and cause all kinds of trouble. I took mine out after they started dieing, not worth the time.

Ivan
AquaMaze@...


----- Original Message -----
From: Gérard Gagnon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 6:07 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams


I send this email 2 days ago, sometime they get lost in the mail..:)

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gerard gagnon
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 21:56
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams

Keep them for your soup not in your tank,(not even sure they are eatable)
it's a sickness collector, like the snail, of course I use snail in a
planted aquarium, but in those tank I don't care about the fish, so if they
get sick and die they die, in the tank I have my valuable fish, no
invertebrates And what about if they die, you don't even notice it.

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 22 août, 2006 21:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Freshwater clams

any opinions on adding freshwater clams to a tank?
Leslie

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18252 From: momofholly2002 Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Koi Herpes Virus
Area koi collectors think virus killed fish
Massillon college student, Copley couple fear ponds contaminated
with
herpes
By Connie Bloom
Beacon Journal staff writer


Area koi collectors were grieving this week over nearly 100 blazing
orange
pet fish killed by what they believe is the koi herpes virus.

A Massillon college student and a Copley Township couple both said
they
had
healthy, established fish communities that were contaminated
recently
when
they added new stock.

Bryon Jones, a student at Kent State University's Stark Campus,
built a
5,000-gallon pond for his mother, Norma, six years ago and stocked
it
with
the showy Japanese fish. They've lost 84 fish in the past three
weeks.

``Mom's heartbroken,'' Jones said. ``We have shed tears over this.
We
had
just bought her fish for her birthday. She had names for all of
them.''

He sent one of the fish to a University of Georgia lab for testing,
and
``it
came back positive,'' he said. ``It got to the point where I could
tell
which one would die next.''

The virus, a cousin of the type that affects humans, infects only
fish
in
the carp family, said Spike Cover, director of Project KHV for the
Associated Koi Clubs of America in Fountain Valley, Calif.

It has infiltrated virtually every country that raises carp,
including
the
United States, and at least a few natural waterways, he said.

``It's too late to stop it,'' Cover said. ``Overkill won't stop it
in
its
tracks, which works when the disease is not widespread.''

Vickie and Ashley Morris have lost nine nearly 30-inch-long koi over
just a
few days, with 11 more faltering in their Copley Township pond.

Ashley Morris raised the fish from 2 inches long. ``They were my
pets
to me.
I had names for them all,'' he said.

Relatively little is known about KHV, which was first formally
described in
Israel in 1998, according Erik Johnson of www.koi-news.com.

Signs of illness include white and/or brown lesions; sudden, quirky
movements; and languishing under waterfalls, a sign they're not
getting
enough oxygen. Despite the high mortality rate, some fish survive,
usually
younger ones, but will still carry the virus.

Jones and the Morrises said their problems started after they added
new
stock they bought directly from a southern Ohio hatchery that
maintains
its
fish are not infected. They have filed complaints with state
authorities.

The Morrises met Jones by accident at Hoffman's Garden Center in
Green,
where both families went to see if owner Bill Hoffman had any advice.

Hoffman, who has been working with koi for 10 years, fears there may
be
more
than one source of infected fish. Meanwhile, the families want to
warn
other
owners while they grieve their emotional and financial losses. Large
Koi
sell for as much as $700-$1,200 each.

Hoffman worries the virus will be spread by waterfowl into local
lakes
and
reservoirs and other water gardens. ``We're pretty sure there's
another
pond
in southern Ohio that has this problem,'' he said.

The virus incubates in colder water such as springs, becoming active
at
about 70 degrees, said Hoffman.

``KHV is hard to recognize, and we haven't seen a lot of it,'' he
said.

``It doesn't become active until it reaches a certain temperature.
Springs
at 50 or 60 degrees may not get warm enough to activate the virus.
People
who have koi and want to protect them... should quarantine them in
other new
tanks for two weeks. We as suppliers are doing more of this.''

The virus is asymptomatic in carriers that appear healthy but carry
the
viral DNA, which is transmitted through fish-to-fish contact, urine
and
objects such as fish nets.

Once the virus is introduced to a pond, the fish are exposed.
There's
no
taking it back. When active, the virus reproduces and attacks
epithelial
cells, especially the skin and gills. The fish stop eating, can't
breathe
and die a slow death.

``All your efforts are futile,'' Jones said. ``It's horrific to
watch.''

The koi collection at the Akron Zoo hasn't been affected, and
director
Dave
Barnhardt said the chances of the virus affecting the koi there are
slim
because the zoo quarantines new fish.

Hoffman recommends anyone getting new fish quarantine them in water
brought
up to 70 degrees or higher to watch for problems and to recognize
that,
as a
hobby, fish ponds bring unique challenges because of ``a lot of
things
that
can go wrong.''

``Water gardening is a lot of fun, but it is more complex than a lot
of
other hobbies and activities,'' Hoffman said. ``That's what keeps it
interesting.''
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18253 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
We have ordered some new items for our saltwater
tank..My question is..Should we put them in over a
period of a few weeks??
Hubby is doing some work at the shop for the items..So
we can have them order them on different weeks..
What we have requested..
sand sifting star.. You must have sand . I love them,only you need more if you have sand. LOL
Red star.. What kind? some are dificult to keep some are a peace of cake to keep
red sponge tree.. Very hard to keep , dont like light, best keep under a cliff or in shade
shaving brush..Also hard to keep, and not the best looking plant (why shaving brush?)
mermaid fan..Not sure what this is? sea fan ? Most are difficult to keep and need wave motion to do well. again dont like light. In the wild they usually are found growing downward under cliffs.
feather duster Also needs sand, easy to keep, some multiply. They are great for "tattle telling" on water quality problems, before things crash, the feathers look wilted and falling apart, sometimes, even the whole ring of feathers falls off, and sometimes they crawl out of their tube. ( dont discard them if they do any of these things, they are usually still alive.) Just watch it and decide.
and two damsels.. Get green chromis (they are very peaceful) Avoid most damsels, as they are very agressive

Most of your items are invert (excreat very little polution) or plant, only the 2 damsels are produceing much waste, so I would add them all at ounce.
Hope this helps!

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Putting new items in a tank..


We have ordered some new items for our saltwater
tank..My question is..Should we put them in over a
period of a few weeks??
Hubby is doing some work at the shop for the items..So
we can have them order them on different weeks..
What we have requested..
sand sifting star..
Red star..
red sponge tree..
shaving brush..
mermaid fan..
feather duster..
and two damsels..

Thanks Hope,

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18254 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
Yes we have sand..
I don't know what kind it is..just says red sm..What
bout a Bahama??
I like the shaving brush..I think their cool
looking..We have one in there now..
These are basically the only plants that are available
to us without having to pay a mint in shipping and
handling..
I would love to have some of the
gorgonia's..purple..But their not offered locally..and
shipping is so expensive right now..

Yes, you've helped me alot..
Thanks..
Hope,


> sand sifting star.. You must have sand . I love
> them,only you need more if you have sand. LOL
> Red star.. What kind? some are dificult to keep some
> are a peace of cake to keep
> red sponge tree.. Very hard to keep , dont like
> light, best keep under a cliff or in shade
> shaving brush..Also hard to keep, and not the best
> looking plant (why shaving brush?)
> mermaid fan..Not sure what this is? sea fan ? Most
> are difficult to keep and need wave motion to do
> well. again dont like light. In the wild they
> usually are found growing downward under cliffs.
> feather duster Also needs sand, easy to keep, some
> multiply. They are great for "tattle telling" on
> water quality problems, before things crash, the
> feathers look wilted and falling apart, sometimes,
> even the whole ring of feathers falls off, and
> sometimes they crawl out of their tube. ( dont
> discard them if they do any of these things, they
> are usually still alive.) Just watch it and decide.
> and two damsels.. Get green chromis (they are very
> peaceful) Avoid most damsels, as they are very
> agressive
>
> Most of your items are invert (excreat very little
> polution) or plant, only the 2 damsels are
> produceing much waste, so I would add them all at
> ounce.
> Hope this helps!
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hope Livingston
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 3:18 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Putting new items in a
> tank..
>
>
> We have ordered some new items for our saltwater
> tank..My question is..Should we put them in over a
> period of a few weeks??
> Hubby is doing some work at the shop for the
> items..So
> we can have them order them on different weeks..
> What we have requested..
> sand sifting star..
> Red star..
> red sponge tree..
> shaving brush..
> mermaid fan..
> feather duster..
> and two damsels..
>
> Thanks Hope,
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18255 From: snerticus Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a ...
I have MTS, however, they are not a problem for me. They do
multiply, but they have one live baby at a time and don't seem to
have them that often. I should clarify that... in my crushed coral
substrate tank, they are multiplying faster, but still not at
epidemic proportions. At least not yet. I have them in a tank with
my YoYo loach - who also makes snacks out of snails - and he doesn't
really eat them. I have noticed a few empty shells, but I think the
trapdoor that the MTS has is too much of a pain for him to open, so
he mostly ignores them. Now, if you want to know the fastest
breeding dang snail I've come across, its the common pond snail.
They don't have live babies, but they lay eggs underneath just about
anything underwater. And you can't see under everything. It's just
when you think you got rid of all your snails, then WHAM! another
bumper crop of tiny pinhead babies appear. It's maddening!


Thankfully, I get rid of the excess by putting them in with my YoYo
loach. I know he'll eat the clams if I put them in with him, so I'm
not gonna. I'm only putting them in with my pleco and tiny lampeye
killifish. They don't seem to bother the amano shrimp and amphipods,
and I think the ostracods have too hard a shell for the killies to
eat, because I see them spit them out too often. But I digress,
sorry. I know that the subject should stay on snails in this thread...

Which actually brings me to a question about snails. I bought some
christmas moss at a LFS and tied it to some driftwood. All of a
sudden I saw some tiny ramshorn snails. I was considering buying
some at one time, but decided against it because I was becoming
infested with pond snails. Now that I actually have a few ramshorns,
how do they breed? Are they little multipliers like pond snails?
Will that tank become infested with ramshorns? SIGH... if it does, I
guess my YoYo loach will have another species on his menu when they
get big enough...

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Morganawolf1@... wrote:
>
> For some who have had an overpopulation with malaysian Trumpet
snails, they
> get clown loaches to help to get rid of them, and the clowns get
nice and fat.
>
> Karen
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18256 From: snerticus Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a ...
Okay, now I'm really embarassed, but I think you all know I really
meant that my TANKS were becoming infested with pond snails!

Snert

>I was considering buying
> some at one time, but decided against it because I was becoming
> infested with pond snails.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18257 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a ...
Don't be confuse by my subject line, clown eat snail, it's just than Pacu is
the king of doing it. Clown will eat time to time a snail, but pacu will
eat all them in 1 shot




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de snerticus
Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 22:45
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem
with a ...

Okay, now I'm really embarassed, but I think you all know I really
meant that my TANKS were becoming infested with pond snails!

Snert

>I was considering buying
> some at one time, but decided against it because I was becoming
> infested with pond snails.





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18258 From: Judy R Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: In Search of Giant Gourami
HI,

You may want to check online for younger Giant Gouramis via the internet. I have purchased fish through online fish auction site such as aquabid.com Unfortunately, shipping charges sometimes cost more than the fish. So, you may want to ask your LFS if they can order a Giant Gourami for you. I have asked my local fish store for a custom order and as long as they have access to the fish, they will order it even though they may not keep the fish in stock. I hope this helps!.....Judy




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18259 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
gorgonia is a coral not a plant try ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/LIVE-CORAL-Purple-Sea-Fan-GORGONIA-REEF-Nano-AQUARIUM_W0QQitemZ280017925212QQihZ018QQcategoryZ46308QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Hope Livingston <wildkids3@...> wrote:


Yes we have sand..
I don't know what kind it is..just says red sm..What
bout a Bahama??
I like the shaving brush..I think their cool
looking..We have one in there now..
These are basically the only plants that are available
to us without having to pay a mint in shipping and
handling..
I would love to have some of the
gorgonia's..purple..But their not offered locally..and
shipping is so expensive right now..

Yes, you've helped me alot..
Thanks..
Hope,

> sand sifting star.. You must have sand . I love
> them,only you need more if you have sand. LOL
> Red star.. What kind? some are dificult to keep some
> are a peace of cake to keep
> red sponge tree.. Very hard to keep , dont like
> light, best keep under a cliff or in shade
> shaving brush..Also hard to keep, and not the best
> looking plant (why shaving brush?)
> mermaid fan..Not sure what this is? sea fan ? Most
> are difficult to keep and need wave motion to do
> well. again dont like light. In the wild they
> usually are found growing downward under cliffs.
> feather duster Also needs sand, easy to keep, some
> multiply. They are great for "tattle telling" on
> water quality problems, before things crash, the
> feathers look wilted and falling apart, sometimes,
> even the whole ring of feathers falls off, and
> sometimes they crawl out of their tube. ( dont
> discard them if they do any of these things, they
> are usually still alive.) Just watch it and decide.
> and two damsels.. Get green chromis (they are very
> peaceful) Avoid most damsels, as they are very
> agressive
>
> Most of your items are invert (excreat very little
> polution) or plant, only the 2 damsels are
> produceing much waste, so I would add them all at
> ounce.
> Hope this helps!
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hope Livingston
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 3:18 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Putting new items in a
> tank..
>
>
> We have ordered some new items for our saltwater
> tank..My question is..Should we put them in over a
> period of a few weeks??
> Hubby is doing some work at the shop for the
> items..So
> we can have them order them on different weeks..
> What we have requested..
> sand sifting star..
> Red star..
> red sponge tree..
> shaving brush..
> mermaid fan..
> feather duster..
> and two damsels..
>
> Thanks Hope,
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18260 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
there is a purple algae though and you can use "Purple Up" to help build it up on your live rock if you have it established.

Hope Livingston <wildkids3@...> wrote:

Yes we have sand..
I don't know what kind it is..just says red sm..What
bout a Bahama??
I like the shaving brush..I think their cool
looking..We have one in there now..
These are basically the only plants that are available
to us without having to pay a mint in shipping and
handling..
I would love to have some of the
gorgonia's..purple..But their not offered locally..and
shipping is so expensive right now..

Yes, you've helped me alot..
Thanks..
Hope,

> sand sifting star.. You must have sand . I love
> them,only you need more if you have sand. LOL
> Red star.. What kind? some are dificult to keep some
> are a peace of cake to keep
> red sponge tree.. Very hard to keep , dont like
> light, best keep under a cliff or in shade
> shaving brush..Also hard to keep, and not the best
> looking plant (why shaving brush?)
> mermaid fan..Not sure what this is? sea fan ? Most
> are difficult to keep and need wave motion to do
> well. again dont like light. In the wild they
> usually are found growing downward under cliffs.
> feather duster Also needs sand, easy to keep, some
> multiply. They are great for "tattle telling" on
> water quality problems, before things crash, the
> feathers look wilted and falling apart, sometimes,
> even the whole ring of feathers falls off, and
> sometimes they crawl out of their tube. ( dont
> discard them if they do any of these things, they
> are usually still alive.) Just watch it and decide.
> and two damsels.. Get green chromis (they are very
> peaceful) Avoid most damsels, as they are very
> agressive
>
> Most of your items are invert (excreat very little
> polution) or plant, only the 2 damsels are
> produceing much waste, so I would add them all at
> ounce.
> Hope this helps!
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hope Livingston
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 3:18 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Putting new items in a
> tank..
>
>
> We have ordered some new items for our saltwater
> tank..My question is..Should we put them in over a
> period of a few weeks??
> Hubby is doing some work at the shop for the
> items..So
> we can have them order them on different weeks..
> What we have requested..
> sand sifting star..
> Red star..
> red sponge tree..
> shaving brush..
> mermaid fan..
> feather duster..
> and two damsels..
>
> Thanks Hope,
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18261 From: Rebecca Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Thanks for the input :)

'snerticus' wrote:
"Rebecca, the eel-like thing you saw doesn't sound like a leech to
me"

***Yeah, I definately agree with you there. One of the first things
I did after seeing the little monster was google "aquarium + worms"
and alike and ruled out leeches just because the movement was all
wrong. It was only after hours and hours of unsuccessful google
searches that I started freaking out and posting to my aquarium
groups :)

Ray Wetzel suggested (on a different group) that it may be a khuli
or weather loach. It did look quite a lot like that although I was
so shocked I didn't take a good look at it's markings.

However, I also googled "eels" and found that eels also have some of
the same characteristics of the "thing" I saw. Like the ability to
go headlong into the substrate and dissapear.

Both loaches and eels lay their eggs in floating plants and I have
the least confidence in the sterility of my floating plants
(especially the ones from Asia), so perhaps these are probable
options?

'snerticus' wrote:
"although the earthworm-like flat worm you saw does [look like a
leech]"

***LOL, after having just googled *many* images of leeches I
recognized these as well. I wasn't pleased about their presence but
I'm trying to just stay calm about it. I have to say though that I'm
a little less likely to stick my hand into the aquarium without a
glove now that I know they are there! And, I'm just hope they are
the benevolent kind and not the kind that will attack my fish.

'snerticus' wrote:
"By "moving like an eel" I assume the worm-like creature was
undulating and moving through the water in a snake-like or eel-like
fashion."
***Exactly, yes! He was moving like an eel or an aquatic
snake, 'undulating' is precisely the right word. And he was freakin
big too! At least 4 inches long. And he wasn't flat... he had the
sort of overall shape of a snake or an eel...

snerticus wrote:
"If you do happen to lure it out sometime, try to take a picture of
it at close range, it would be interesting to see. Please let me
know if you can observe it again, and describe it's actions and
behavior."

*** I hope to be able to report back soon, perhaps with a picture.
It has been my nightly mission to lure this thing out (with a camera
in hand). I read up on how to lure a khuli loach out and so I figure
the same basic principle should apply to whatever the heck this
thing is :)

'snerticus' wrote:
"in case you haven't guessed, I'm intrigued with freshwater inverts,
be it crustaceans, worms, molluscs, any kind of "icky" looking
thing."

LOL, you'd just *love* my tank then. I've got all kinds of stuff.
I've got crustaceans (Ostracods... who make great fish food), worms
(nematodes & now apparently leeches), Molluscs (limpets... only a
few) and now this unidentified thing. Yup, you'd love my tank
alright, it covers *all* of your interests ;)

Before the "thing" sighting, I was planning on getting some
Neocaridina shrimp. Awhile ago I had a ghost shrimp who got eaten by
a *temporary* guest to my tank (long story... rescued Chinese Algae
Eater). Anyway, I just loved my little shrimp and now I'm thinking
of getting a bunch of them (snowball shrimp). But first I have to
figure out if the monster of the deep will threaten them before I
consider investing in them... <sigh>

Thanks again for your thoughts. I'll let you know if I can figure
anything more out :)

Rebecca
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18262 From: Gal Hever Date: 8/24/2006
Subject: New to group...new business
Hi all

I am new to this group but not the hobby.

I recently took over www.reeftanksupply.com.

As a fellow hobbyist, I know it can drain your wallet. That is why I
am determined to provide all my customers with the cheapest prices on
the net.

We will also have livestock soon, including group buys on fish for
west coast hobbyist so if you guys are interested let me know and I
can get you pretty much any fish for a third of LFS price.

I am in the process of putting together my 180g dream reef, so I look
forward to sharing this with all of you.

Gal
www.reeftanksupply.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18263 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
Hope, where are you at, if you dont mind telling? I'm in Midland, TX. USA
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Putting new items in a tank..




Yes we have sand..
I don't know what kind it is..just says red sm..What
bout a Bahama??
I like the shaving brush..I think their cool
looking..We have one in there now..
These are basically the only plants that are available
to us without having to pay a mint in shipping and
handling..
I would love to have some of the
gorgonia's..purple..But their not offered locally..and
shipping is so expensive right now..

Yes, you've helped me alot..
Thanks..
Hope,

> sand sifting star.. You must have sand . I love
> them,only you need more if you have sand. LOL
> Red star.. What kind? some are dificult to keep some
> are a peace of cake to keep
> red sponge tree.. Very hard to keep , dont like
> light, best keep under a cliff or in shade
> shaving brush..Also hard to keep, and not the best
> looking plant (why shaving brush?)
> mermaid fan..Not sure what this is? sea fan ? Most
> are difficult to keep and need wave motion to do
> well. again dont like light. In the wild they
> usually are found growing downward under cliffs.
> feather duster Also needs sand, easy to keep, some
> multiply. They are great for "tattle telling" on
> water quality problems, before things crash, the
> feathers look wilted and falling apart, sometimes,
> even the whole ring of feathers falls off, and
> sometimes they crawl out of their tube. ( dont
> discard them if they do any of these things, they
> are usually still alive.) Just watch it and decide.
> and two damsels.. Get green chromis (they are very
> peaceful) Avoid most damsels, as they are very
> agressive
>
> Most of your items are invert (excreat very little
> polution) or plant, only the 2 damsels are
> produceing much waste, so I would add them all at
> ounce.
> Hope this helps!
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hope Livingston
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 3:18 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Putting new items in a
> tank..
>
>
> We have ordered some new items for our saltwater
> tank..My question is..Should we put them in over a
> period of a few weeks??
> Hubby is doing some work at the shop for the
> items..So
> we can have them order them on different weeks..
> What we have requested..
> sand sifting star..
> Red star..
> red sponge tree..
> shaving brush..
> mermaid fan..
> feather duster..
> and two damsels..
>
> Thanks Hope,
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18264 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Ray, 34'C look to work until now they disappear very fast,


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Raymond Wetzel
Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 14:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Severe Ich

Several questions, as I'm not quite sure of what you are saying. Did
you mean to end a sentence (with a missing "period") after 31C, or
are you saying that you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday
morning and on the same day (Tuesday), there was no trace of Ich
anymore? Also, did you pre-heat the 3 gallons of replacement water
to 31C before you added it?

If you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday, it is still posible
to see the resergence of latent trophonts 48 hours later on Thursday
even though Ich's normal 48 hour cycle at just below that temperature
has been curtailed with the elevation of the temperature above 30C.
The addition of fresh water does not help matters either, if its
cooler than the 31C tank water.

If you are now treating the Silver Dollars with malachite green at
75% dosage, as you're saying, rather than 50% dosage you stand the
risk of stressing/overdosing the fish, possibly giving them cause to
expire in time, as you are suspecting. If this is how you dosed, I
would suggest giving the tank a 1/3 water change (of 31C degree
water), which will reduce the dosage from 75% to 50%.

There are virulent, resistant strains of Ich in existance that need a
temperature of at least 33.3C to eliminate them, but they are quite
rare although not impossible for your fish to have contracted, but
unless the physical signs of Ich are appearing to increase, I would
go with treating it as the normal strain, and rely on the temperature
(31C) to arrest the reproduction of the protozoan, maintaining that
temperature until at least 3 days (24 hours after its normal cycle is
completed) after seeing no further signs of the Ich before reducing
the temperature, as a precaution to not allow the resurgence of any
latent trophonts.

To my knowledge, I would think its impossible for Ich to complete its
life cycle without its host fish. Further, while Ich is ever-present
in surface water (lakes, ponds, streams, etc.), I find it difficult
to believe that it exists in well water, even if your only source of
water has been such. You are creating the opportunity to bring in
Ich spores with every fish introduction you are putting in your
tanks, from your LFS, even if you discard their water before putting
these fish in your tanks. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all
>
> Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver
Dollar, half
> dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C
Tuesday
> morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont
reappear,
> even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What
I did
> between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water,
I start
> yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning
here, is
> the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will
think it's
> because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the
gravel
> surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have
is the
> malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the
dilemma, did I
> push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp
will
> take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp
treatment
> . (Never have problem like that with ich before)
>
> I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) ,
but that
> also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before
add to
> that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)
>
> Gerard
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18265 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Gerard, Glad to see that temperature is now working for you. You
must have had one of those new resistant strains of Ich for 31C not
to work. Once you see all signs of the Ich disappear, lower the
temperature to 32C for three days before dropping it gradually over
the next few days to more normal temperatures. Needless to say, it
would help if you increased the aeration during this period, but I'm
assuming you know as much. Ray


-- the high 34C can weaken Characids if left too long at that
temperature--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon
<dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Ray, 34'C look to work until now they disappear very fast,
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Raymond Wetzel
> Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 14:48
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Severe Ich
>
> Several questions, as I'm not quite sure of what you are saying.
Did
> you mean to end a sentence (with a missing "period") after 31C, or
> are you saying that you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday
> morning and on the same day (Tuesday), there was no trace of Ich
> anymore? Also, did you pre-heat the 3 gallons of replacement water
> to 31C before you added it?
>
> If you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday, it is still
posible
> to see the resergence of latent trophonts 48 hours later on
Thursday
> even though Ich's normal 48 hour cycle at just below that
temperature
> has been curtailed with the elevation of the temperature above
30C.
> The addition of fresh water does not help matters either, if its
> cooler than the 31C tank water.
>
> If you are now treating the Silver Dollars with malachite green at
> 75% dosage, as you're saying, rather than 50% dosage you stand the
> risk of stressing/overdosing the fish, possibly giving them cause
to
> expire in time, as you are suspecting. If this is how you dosed, I
> would suggest giving the tank a 1/3 water change (of 31C degree
> water), which will reduce the dosage from 75% to 50%.
>
> There are virulent, resistant strains of Ich in existance that need
a
> temperature of at least 33.3C to eliminate them, but they are quite
> rare although not impossible for your fish to have contracted, but
> unless the physical signs of Ich are appearing to increase, I would
> go with treating it as the normal strain, and rely on the
temperature
> (31C) to arrest the reproduction of the protozoan, maintaining that
> temperature until at least 3 days (24 hours after its normal cycle
is
> completed) after seeing no further signs of the Ich before reducing
> the temperature, as a precaution to not allow the resurgence of any
> latent trophonts.
>
> To my knowledge, I would think its impossible for Ich to complete
its
> life cycle without its host fish. Further, while Ich is ever-
present
> in surface water (lakes, ponds, streams, etc.), I find it difficult
> to believe that it exists in well water, even if your only source
of
> water has been such. You are creating the opportunity to bring in
> Ich spores with every fish introduction you are putting in your
> tanks, from your LFS, even if you discard their water before
putting
> these fish in your tanks. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all
> >
> > Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver
> Dollar, half
> > dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C
> Tuesday
> > morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new
trophont
> reappear,
> > even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop.
What
> I did
> > between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well
water,
> I start
> > yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm
questioning
> here, is
> > the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will
> think it's
> > because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the
> gravel
> > surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have
> is the
> > malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the
> dilemma, did I
> > push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the
temp
> will
> > take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the
temp
> treatment
> > . (Never have problem like that with ich before)
> >
> > I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a
well) ,
> but that
> > also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water
before
> add to
> > that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)
> >
> > Gerard
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18266 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Thanks Ray I will get a pic this afternoon, the tank look like a NASA
project, I add cheap heater, because the one already in the tank don't go
over 31'c even if they have 32 on the dial, I add also 2 power head 50 of
Hagen, with their ventury they make a lot of bubble and a lot of
displacement on surface. The oxygen level is at 7,2 mg/l usually at 26
it's at 8,1 mg/l ( I have an DO meter, useful) so it's enough for the fish
for few day, For the temp I will live it at 34 24 hours until I see the
last spot ( very hard to see on a silver )




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Raymond Wetzel
Envoyé : 25 août, 2006 12:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Severe Ich

Gerard, Glad to see that temperature is now working for you. You
must have had one of those new resistant strains of Ich for 31C not
to work. Once you see all signs of the Ich disappear, lower the
temperature to 32C for three days before dropping it gradually over
the next few days to more normal temperatures. Needless to say, it
would help if you increased the aeration during this period, but I'm
assuming you know as much. Ray


-- the high 34C can weaken Characids if left too long at that
temperature--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon
<dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Ray, 34'C look to work until now they disappear very fast,
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Raymond Wetzel
> Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 14:48
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Severe Ich
>
> Several questions, as I'm not quite sure of what you are saying.
Did
> you mean to end a sentence (with a missing "period") after 31C, or
> are you saying that you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday
> morning and on the same day (Tuesday), there was no trace of Ich
> anymore? Also, did you pre-heat the 3 gallons of replacement water
> to 31C before you added it?
>
> If you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday, it is still
posible
> to see the resergence of latent trophonts 48 hours later on
Thursday
> even though Ich's normal 48 hour cycle at just below that
temperature
> has been curtailed with the elevation of the temperature above
30C.
> The addition of fresh water does not help matters either, if its
> cooler than the 31C tank water.
>
> If you are now treating the Silver Dollars with malachite green at
> 75% dosage, as you're saying, rather than 50% dosage you stand the
> risk of stressing/overdosing the fish, possibly giving them cause
to
> expire in time, as you are suspecting. If this is how you dosed, I
> would suggest giving the tank a 1/3 water change (of 31C degree
> water), which will reduce the dosage from 75% to 50%.
>
> There are virulent, resistant strains of Ich in existance that need
a
> temperature of at least 33.3C to eliminate them, but they are quite
> rare although not impossible for your fish to have contracted, but
> unless the physical signs of Ich are appearing to increase, I would
> go with treating it as the normal strain, and rely on the
temperature
> (31C) to arrest the reproduction of the protozoan, maintaining that
> temperature until at least 3 days (24 hours after its normal cycle
is
> completed) after seeing no further signs of the Ich before reducing
> the temperature, as a precaution to not allow the resurgence of any
> latent trophonts.
>
> To my knowledge, I would think its impossible for Ich to complete
its
> life cycle without its host fish. Further, while Ich is ever-
present
> in surface water (lakes, ponds, streams, etc.), I find it difficult
> to believe that it exists in well water, even if your only source
of
> water has been such. You are creating the opportunity to bring in
> Ich spores with every fish introduction you are putting in your
> tanks, from your LFS, even if you discard their water before
putting
> these fish in your tanks. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all
> >
> > Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver
> Dollar, half
> > dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C
> Tuesday
> > morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new
trophont
> reappear,
> > even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop.
What
> I did
> > between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well
water,
> I start
> > yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm
questioning
> here, is
> > the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will
> think it's
> > because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the
> gravel
> > surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have
> is the
> > malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the
> dilemma, did I
> > push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the
temp
> will
> > take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the
temp
> treatment
> > . (Never have problem like that with ich before)
> >
> > I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a
well) ,
> but that
> > also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water
before
> add to
> > that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)
> >
> > Gerard
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18267 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Putting new items in a tank..
We are in Southern Indina..

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Hope, where are you at, if you dont mind telling?
> I'm in Midland, TX. USA
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18268 From: snerticus Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
I know you'd like the shrimp, as I got my Amano Shrimp after keeping
some Ghost Shrimp myself. I have to admit, ghost shrimp are a bit
different than Caridina or Neocaridina shrimp. Ghost shrimp have
tiny little pinchers like crayfish for scavenging, but it seems that
the Cardina/Neocardina shrimp have little "hands" that are constantly
on the go! They are soooo cute! Of course, ghost shrimp are cheap
and I probably will get some more. But they don't seem to last as
long. Mine usually die after several months for no apparent reason.
My Amano shrimp are quite long lived, and they can grow to at least
2". I saw a giant one at the LFS I go to... it seemed to be almost 3
inches long! I couldn't believe how big it was. I should've asked
how old it was.

I'd really like to get some Neocaridina shrimp, like the cherry reds,
greens or blues. They are smaller than Amanos, but they can be more
colorful. All in all, they are just as interesting as the fish to
watch. And (depending on the fish you have) they interact with them
quite amusingly too.

---- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rebecca" <rebeccakarol@...>
wrote:
>
> Before the "thing" sighting, I was planning on getting some
> Neocaridina shrimp. Awhile ago I had a ghost shrimp who got eaten
by
> a *temporary* guest to my tank (long story... rescued Chinese Algae
> Eater). Anyway, I just loved my little shrimp and now I'm thinking
> of getting a bunch of them (snowball shrimp). But first I have to
> figure out if the monster of the deep will threaten them before I
> consider investing in them... <sigh>
>
> Thanks again for your thoughts. I'll let you know if I can figure
> anything more out :)
>
> Rebecca
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18269 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Ray, I can hardly see trace of the ich. So the 33 was the solution, I put 2
of them in other tank with more chemical,and 2 in an other with different
chemical they go also not bad but not as good with the one with
temperature, I make separate the fish in 3 to apply 3 treatment to see the
difference, the idea of a incipient ich, is describe in many book, but it's
the first time I came in contact with it, as you said it's rare, what I
think happen, I use a net who was not sterilize, who have been in contact
with 2 fish I buy from a fish store, when I buy those 2 fish I don't have my
eye glass, when I arrive home they have ich, I just finish treat them, what
I think and also other who answer me is the lFS , breeder sometime treat ich
with not enough dose or a too short treatment, so the ich get use to the
chemical, not prove but a interesting theory. If it's happen to be true , we
will see more and more of this ich. At the end I will put a table with the
3 treatment and the effect on my web site. By the way a 150 gal tank at 34
is hot, when you come close you can feel it and the room is also very hot.

Gerard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Raymond Wetzel
Envoyé : 25 août, 2006 12:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Severe Ich

Gerard, Glad to see that temperature is now working for you. You
must have had one of those new resistant strains of Ich for 31C not
to work. Once you see all signs of the Ich disappear, lower the
temperature to 32C for three days before dropping it gradually over
the next few days to more normal temperatures. Needless to say, it
would help if you increased the aeration during this period, but I'm
assuming you know as much. Ray


-- the high 34C can weaken Characids if left too long at that
temperature--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon
<dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Ray, 34'C look to work until now they disappear very fast,
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Raymond Wetzel
> Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 14:48
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Severe Ich
>
> Several questions, as I'm not quite sure of what you are saying.
Did
> you mean to end a sentence (with a missing "period") after 31C, or
> are you saying that you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday
> morning and on the same day (Tuesday), there was no trace of Ich
> anymore? Also, did you pre-heat the 3 gallons of replacement water
> to 31C before you added it?
>
> If you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday, it is still
posible
> to see the resergence of latent trophonts 48 hours later on
Thursday
> even though Ich's normal 48 hour cycle at just below that
temperature
> has been curtailed with the elevation of the temperature above
30C.
> The addition of fresh water does not help matters either, if its
> cooler than the 31C tank water.
>
> If you are now treating the Silver Dollars with malachite green at
> 75% dosage, as you're saying, rather than 50% dosage you stand the
> risk of stressing/overdosing the fish, possibly giving them cause
to
> expire in time, as you are suspecting. If this is how you dosed, I
> would suggest giving the tank a 1/3 water change (of 31C degree
> water), which will reduce the dosage from 75% to 50%.
>
> There are virulent, resistant strains of Ich in existance that need
a
> temperature of at least 33.3C to eliminate them, but they are quite
> rare although not impossible for your fish to have contracted, but
> unless the physical signs of Ich are appearing to increase, I would
> go with treating it as the normal strain, and rely on the
temperature
> (31C) to arrest the reproduction of the protozoan, maintaining that
> temperature until at least 3 days (24 hours after its normal cycle
is
> completed) after seeing no further signs of the Ich before reducing
> the temperature, as a precaution to not allow the resurgence of any
> latent trophonts.
>
> To my knowledge, I would think its impossible for Ich to complete
its
> life cycle without its host fish. Further, while Ich is ever-
present
> in surface water (lakes, ponds, streams, etc.), I find it difficult
> to believe that it exists in well water, even if your only source
of
> water has been such. You are creating the opportunity to bring in
> Ich spores with every fish introduction you are putting in your
> tanks, from your LFS, even if you discard their water before
putting
> these fish in your tanks. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all
> >
> > Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver
> Dollar, half
> > dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C
> Tuesday
> > morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new
trophont
> reappear,
> > even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop.
What
> I did
> > between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well
water,
> I start
> > yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm
questioning
> here, is
> > the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will
> think it's
> > because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the
> gravel
> > surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have
> is the
> > malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the
> dilemma, did I
> > push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the
temp
> will
> > take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the
temp
> treatment
> > . (Never have problem like that with ich before)
> >
> > I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a
well) ,
> but that
> > also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water
before
> add to
> > that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)
> >
> > Gerard
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18270 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Gerard, As with the normal strain of Ich, you probably don't need
chemicals (medication) to help treat this Ich, just salt and proper
amount of heat (93F). I believe you are right though, those
hobbyists who are treating this with medications and who are cutting
the treament short may well be adding to the resistance of this
disease in treating it in the future.

Your table of treatments for this disease will no doubt be
informative. When suggesting this high heat treatment, you should
also indicate that not all species can take this. I know that
Characins will take this at least for a brief period (yours was/is
towards the end of the treatment). Most New World Cichlids will
tolerate this temperature real fine, as well as Loaches of the Botia
group.

I can picture the heat coming from your 150. Its like there's
another person in the room (not far from 37C/98.6F), only it keeps
radiating heat as fast as you're adding it. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray, I can hardly see trace of the ich. So the 33 was the
solution, I put 2
> of them in other tank with more chemical,and 2 in an other with
different
> chemical they go also not bad but not as good with the one with
> temperature, I make separate the fish in 3 to apply 3 treatment
to see the
> difference, the idea of a incipient ich, is describe in many book,
but it's
> the first time I came in contact with it, as you said it's rare,
what I
> think happen, I use a net who was not sterilize, who have been in
contact
> with 2 fish I buy from a fish store, when I buy those 2 fish I
don't have my
> eye glass, when I arrive home they have ich, I just finish treat
them, what
> I think and also other who answer me is the lFS , breeder sometime
treat ich
> with not enough dose or a too short treatment, so the ich get use
to the
> chemical, not prove but a interesting theory. If it's happen to be
true , we
> will see more and more of this ich. At the end I will put a table
with the
> 3 treatment and the effect on my web site. By the way a 150 gal
tank at 34
> is hot, when you come close you can feel it and the room is also
very hot.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Raymond Wetzel
> Envoyé : 25 août, 2006 12:02
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Severe Ich
>
> Gerard, Glad to see that temperature is now working for you. You
> must have had one of those new resistant strains of Ich for 31C not
> to work. Once you see all signs of the Ich disappear, lower the
> temperature to 32C for three days before dropping it gradually over
> the next few days to more normal temperatures. Needless to say, it
> would help if you increased the aeration during this period, but
I'm
> assuming you know as much. Ray
>
>
> -- the high 34C can weaken Characids if left too long at that
> temperature--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon
> <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Ray, 34'C look to work until now they disappear very fast,
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Raymond Wetzel
> > Envoyé : 24 août, 2006 14:48
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Severe Ich
> >
> > Several questions, as I'm not quite sure of what you are saying.
> Did
> > you mean to end a sentence (with a missing "period") after 31C,
or
> > are you saying that you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday
> > morning and on the same day (Tuesday), there was no trace of Ich
> > anymore? Also, did you pre-heat the 3 gallons of replacement
water
> > to 31C before you added it?
> >
> > If you raised the temperature to 31C on Tuesday, it is still
> posible
> > to see the resergence of latent trophonts 48 hours later on
> Thursday
> > even though Ich's normal 48 hour cycle at just below that
> temperature
> > has been curtailed with the elevation of the temperature above
> 30C.
> > The addition of fresh water does not help matters either, if its
> > cooler than the 31C tank water.
> >
> > If you are now treating the Silver Dollars with malachite green
at
> > 75% dosage, as you're saying, rather than 50% dosage you stand
the
> > risk of stressing/overdosing the fish, possibly giving them cause
> to
> > expire in time, as you are suspecting. If this is how you dosed,
I
> > would suggest giving the tank a 1/3 water change (of 31C degree
> > water), which will reduce the dosage from 75% to 50%.
> >
> > There are virulent, resistant strains of Ich in existance that
need
> a
> > temperature of at least 33.3C to eliminate them, but they are
quite
> > rare although not impossible for your fish to have contracted,
but
> > unless the physical signs of Ich are appearing to increase, I
would
> > go with treating it as the normal strain, and rely on the
> temperature
> > (31C) to arrest the reproduction of the protozoan, maintaining
that
> > temperature until at least 3 days (24 hours after its normal
cycle
> is
> > completed) after seeing no further signs of the Ich before
reducing
> > the temperature, as a precaution to not allow the resurgence of
any
> > latent trophonts.
> >
> > To my knowledge, I would think its impossible for Ich to complete
> its
> > life cycle without its host fish. Further, while Ich is ever-
> present
> > in surface water (lakes, ponds, streams, etc.), I find it
difficult
> > to believe that it exists in well water, even if your only source
> of
> > water has been such. You are creating the opportunity to bring
in
> > Ich spores with every fish introduction you are putting in your
> > tanks, from your LFS, even if you discard their water before
> putting
> > these fish in your tanks. Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello all
> > >
> > > Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver
> > Dollar, half
> > > dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a
31'C
> > Tuesday
> > > morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new
> trophont
> > reappear,
> > > even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop.
> What
> > I did
> > > between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well
> water,
> > I start
> > > yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm
> questioning
> > here, is
> > > the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will
> > think it's
> > > because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at
the
> > gravel
> > > surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I
have
> > is the
> > > malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the
> > dilemma, did I
> > > push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the
> temp
> > will
> > > take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the
> temp
> > treatment
> > > . (Never have problem like that with ich before)
> > >
> > > I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a
> well) ,
> > but that
> > > also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water
> before
> > add to
> > > that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)
> > >
> > > Gerard
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18271 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with a Pacu, solve
Hello I finally start a page on how to difference a Silver Pacu from a
Piranha, you can see good picture of the teeth

http://www.aqualab.ca/pacu-pira.htm

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18272 From: edel Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: GOLDFISH AND SMELL
Hi i have a question about my ryukin goldfish

i keep my water clean my filter clean and it still gives off a bad
smell like a chemical smell and rotten smell all together what could
it be?? i dont over feed my fish

could some one plz help and tell me what this could be

thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18273 From: edel Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: goldfish smell
Hi i have a question about my ryukin goldfish

i keep my water clean my filter clean and it still gives off a bad
smell like a chemical smell and rotten smell all together what could
it be?? i dont over feed my fish

could some one plz help and tell me what this could be

thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18274 From: snerticus Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: goldfish smell
I'm not really sure. Didn't someone else have this problem a short time
ago? Maybe they can help.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "edel" <edgonzo19852003@...> wrote:
>
> Hi i have a question about my ryukin goldfish
>
> i keep my water clean my filter clean and it still gives off a bad
> smell like a chemical smell and rotten smell all together what could
> it be?? i dont over feed my fish
>
> could some one plz help and tell me what this could be
>
> thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18275 From: snerticus Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: you think clown loach eat snail ? (was Re: Problem with a Pacu)
Gerard, I used to have a small pacu in a 29 gallon tank, and I know
from experience that not only are they snail eaters, but they are
little vaccuum cleaners too! I remember one time I was feeding my
fish, and that darn Pacu went back and forth all around the aquarium
sucking up all the food before it even hit the bottom. I had to wait
until he was relatively full before I fed the rest of the crew!

I don't remember what happened to him, since I was around 20 something
years old (now I'm almost twice that), but I remember going to a public
aquarium and seeing what looked to me to be a pacu, but it was over 2
feet across! I said after seeing that, I was not going to get another
Pacu again...I didn't want to stunt it's growth. Of course, I'm not
sure what the fish at the public aquarium was, but it sure looked like
a Pacu to me. Looking at your pictures, it reminds me of him.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> News from the Pacu
>
> My new pacu is with 2 clown loach, since 2 day I drop all the snail I
have
> in the tank, they disappear , so I said those clown are good, now I
just
> drop 30 of them, and it's not the clown, it's the pacu, he crack them
like I
> crack chips......
>
> So top of the list of snail eater, The Pacu
>
> Gerard
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18276 From: Rebecca Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: GOLDFISH AND SMELL
Hello and sorry about your smelly goldfish problem :)

I'm really very new to fish but I was wondering what kind of a tank
the goldfish are in and whether there are any ornaments in the tank.

Many moons ago I kept a betta in the "Fairly Oddparents Goldfish
Bowl." It developed a horrible chemical smell! (Now I have a betta in
a 10 gallon planted tank :)

I also bought a resin ornament for one of my tanks. It came in the
mail and when I opened up the box the smell of it was horrible. I
wound up soaking the ornament for several *weeks* and then washing it
in a bleach solution before I put it in the tank. It took that long
for the smell to go away.

So, it's just a thought but perhaps the smell is coming from either
the tank or a tank ornament?

Rebecca
South Jersey, USA



> Hi i have a question about my ryukin goldfish
>
> i keep my water clean my filter clean and it still gives off a bad
> smell like a chemical smell and rotten smell all together what could
> it be?? i dont over feed my fish
>
> could some one plz help and tell me what this could be
>
> thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18277 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Books Available
[NOTE: This is a resend of an earlier message that was not delivered
because Yahoo messages were being bounced because the Aquatic Life group was
sending from a server that appeared on at least one blacklist.]

I have just seen that http://www.seahorses.com is offering several of the
hard to get volumes that have been discussed here in the last month or so.
Jim is also offering several of the more common volumes as well. Jim is a
reputable dealer of books. If you are interested in any of these volumes,
you should hop mover there and check it out.

\\Steve//
"Maybe this world is another planet's hell."
Aldous Huxley
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18278 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
[NOTE: This is a resend of an earlier message that was not delivered
because Yahoo messages were being bounced because the Aquatic Life group was
sending from a server that appeared on at least one blacklist.]

A perfect example as why the treatment needs to continue for at least 7
days, a common figure for the lifespan of the parasite.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 1:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Severe Ich

Hello all

Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver Dollar, half
dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C Tuesday
morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont reappear,
even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What I did
between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water, I start
yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning here, is
the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will think it's
because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the gravel
surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have is the
malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the dilemma, did I
push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp will
take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp treatment
.. (Never have problem like that with ich before)

I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) , but that
also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before add to
that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18279 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Severe Ich
Steve, this case of ich will have not be treated in 30 days, I fix the
problem since, I was facing a incipid form of ich, so fallowing the
recommendation of Ray, and other reading on it , I increase the temp at 34'c
now all the cysts are disappear, rest to deal with the remaining
theronts, usually a ich will not complete is cycle at 30'C but the rare new
variety need 33'c I conclude than the breeder and fish store , by not
treating well the sickness, give a certain immunity to the chemical to the
parasites. I said the breeder and the store, because the fish own by
people in their house less often return in the market I start to build
info on this rare , or may new variety of ich. I also start to make analysis
of the ich product on the market, because it look than many of them are
ineffective ( too low dosage, expiration of the product because of too long
shelf life, missing instruction on the product) I will post on my web , and
update it. But for that I need sick fish, so for now I have the
collaboration of 3 LFS, I have also to establish a list of fish who can
tolerate 34'c, for the other the good concentration , malachite are good
only if use at the good concentration and if the one the LFS sell you is
still effective, Mardrel, AP Quick Cure, and many other do not have
expiration date on the bottle, other put date who are obviously to generous,
malachite is not good for 8 years in a shelf of a store at room temperature,
salt is good also if the fish tolerate it, it will not be done in a day.
At least it make me something to do

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 25 août, 2006 22:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Severe Ich

[NOTE: This is a resend of an earlier message that was not delivered
because Yahoo messages were being bounced because the Aquatic Life group was
sending from a server that appeared on at least one blacklist.]

A perfect example as why the treatment needs to continue for at least 7
days, a common figure for the lifespan of the parasite.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 1:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Severe Ich

Hello all

Last Saturday I start a treatment of Ich in my tank of Silver Dollar, half
dose of Malachite/Formalin , I rise also the temperature a 31'C Tuesday
morning no trace of ich anymore, but Thursday small new trophont reappear,
even if the temperature was at 31 and the treatment non stop. What I did
between is replace 3 gal. of evaporated water with my well water, I start
yesterday a new treatment at 75% of the dose, what I'm questioning here, is
the ich is not suppose to complete a cycle at over 30'C I will think it's
because the gravel is cooler, but the temp is also at 31 at the gravel
surrounding, due to high circulation of water. The problem I have is the
malachite is more toxic with higher temp. so now I have the dilemma, did I
push more and risk to kill the fish with the malachite, or the temp will
take over the ich with time, ( I start to not believe in the temp treatment
.. (Never have problem like that with ich before)

I know the ich is not suppose to cycle without fish (in a well) , but that
also I have question on it, next time I will boil the water before add to
that tank, in case the book are wrong. :)

Gerard




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18280 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: Books Available
I will pass for this time on buying book, in May and June I turn crazy,
buying book before they are not available anymore, but I keep the address of
seahorses, actually I get it last time you tell me. Now I have to finish my
fish room, I have a 4 years old naughty, but loveable son, and a new 4
months baby, who will endanger the fish in their tank, if I don't lock them
soon :) I means lock the fish room . until this time I lock the fish
food and chemical.





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 25 août, 2006 23:00
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Books Available

[NOTE: This is a resend of an earlier message that was not delivered
because Yahoo messages were being bounced because the Aquatic Life group was
sending from a server that appeared on at least one blacklist.]

I have just seen that http://www.seahorses.com is offering several of the
hard to get volumes that have been discussed here in the last month or so.
Jim is also offering several of the more common volumes as well. Jim is a
reputable dealer of books. If you are interested in any of these volumes,
you should hop mover there and check it out.

\\Steve//
"Maybe this world is another planet's hell."
Aldous Huxley




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18281 From: Gal Hever Date: 8/25/2006
Subject: Re: New to group...new business
Just to let everyone know we are running a 10% off on all NON sale
items and Tunze products (tunze is 5% off) and discount code is
584678.

Gal
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gal Hever" <gal@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> I am new to this group but not the hobby.
>
> I recently took over www.reeftanksupply.com.
>
> As a fellow hobbyist, I know it can drain your wallet. That is why
I
> am determined to provide all my customers with the cheapest prices
on
> the net.
>
> We will also have livestock soon, including group buys on fish for
> west coast hobbyist so if you guys are interested let me know and I
> can get you pretty much any fish for a third of LFS price.
>
> I am in the process of putting together my 180g dream reef, so I
look
> forward to sharing this with all of you.
>
> Gal
> www.reeftanksupply.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18283 From: edel gonzalez Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: GOLDFISH AND SMELL
i have them on a glass aquarium and i only have 1
ornament made out of plastic and i dont think its the
ornament because i wash it every week and it does not
smell

--- Rebecca <rebeccakarol@...> wrote:

> Hello and sorry about your smelly goldfish problem
> :)
>
> I'm really very new to fish but I was wondering what
> kind of a tank
> the goldfish are in and whether there are any
> ornaments in the tank.
>
> Many moons ago I kept a betta in the "Fairly
> Oddparents Goldfish
> Bowl." It developed a horrible chemical smell! (Now
> I have a betta in
> a 10 gallon planted tank :)
>
> I also bought a resin ornament for one of my tanks.
> It came in the
> mail and when I opened up the box the smell of it
> was horrible. I
> wound up soaking the ornament for several *weeks*
> and then washing it
> in a bleach solution before I put it in the tank. It
> took that long
> for the smell to go away.
>
> So, it's just a thought but perhaps the smell is
> coming from either
> the tank or a tank ornament?
>
> Rebecca
> South Jersey, USA
>
>
>
> > Hi i have a question about my ryukin goldfish
> >
> > i keep my water clean my filter clean and it still
> gives off a bad
> > smell like a chemical smell and rotten smell all
> together what could
> > it be?? i dont over feed my fish
> >
> > could some one plz help and tell me what this
> could be
> >
> > thanks
> >
>
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18284 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Birthday Reminder
Shannon HAPPY Birthday !!!!!....


We should all go over to bluemountain or one of the other FREE birthday card
makers and mass Ecard her. I am sure a couple hundred birthday cards
wouldn't hurt her feelings.

Links to free Ecard makers:

_www.thebirthday.com/_ (http://www.thebirthday.com/)
_www.BlueMountain.com_ (http://www.bluemountain.com/)
_www.123greetings.com/birthday/_ (http://www.123greetings.com/birthday/)
_www.birthdaycards.com/_ (http://www.birthdaycards.com/)
_www.dgreetings.com/_ (http://www.dgreetings.com/)




Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
_Freshwater Tropical Aquaria Society Forum_
(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)



In a message dated 8/26/2006 3:01:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com writes:

Reminder from: _AquaticLife's Calendar_
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/cal) Title: Shannon's Bday ( _agentscullyeyore@..._
(mailto:agentscullyeyore@...) ) Date: Sunday August 27, 2006 Time: All Day
Repeats: This event repeats every year. Next reminder: The next reminder for
this event will be sent in 17 hours, 59 minutes.




(http://www.ftas.net/yabbsm/index.php)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18285 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Crack in tank & driftwood question
Just got back into town last night after being on the road for a week. I'm still waiting to see a couple of replies come through that I sent yesterday, so let's see if we can do better with this one.

I did a quick Google on the Swahala Driftwood, and there seems to be a dearth of information about it on the internet. I did find one post that claims that it raised the pH of the water by 0.6 points, but no other posts other than were to find it or those who wholesale it along with a lot of sellers. Checking the commercial links, those that mention a distributor, mention Feller Stone out of Utah.

None the less, you should treat it as any driftwood. If, as you say, the pieces are too large for you to boil. You should then treat them with bleach to kill the bad stuff that may be inhabiting the wood. Use a fairly strong concentration of bleach. Once that has been done--letting it sit for a day or so--then rinse it well. I don't think you will continue to see the growth you are seeing. If you do, first I'd contact Drs. Foster and Smith about it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 9:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question

No I didn't boil it, the pieces are really large so I don't have
anything to accomodate their size.
They are outside in the sun so I was hoping the hot water would do the
trick.
It's swahalla driftwood I ordered from Fosters and Smith.
I'll go out here in a bit and see if there is any new slimy stuff and
take a picture if there is.

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 10:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question



Leslie,

The tank, as is, is useless for holding water. It would just be a matter
of time before the hairline crack is no longer a crack, and the tank
empty. If your friend is willing, the glass can be replaced, but it will
not be an easy job with a tank that size.

I do not know what you are getting from that driftwood soak. What kind
of wood is it? Where did you get it. Have you boiled it prior to the
soaking?

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 4:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Crack in tank & driftwood question

1. I know someone who has a 150 gallon aquarium w/ a "hairline" crack
in the bottom. Is this now useless to hold water or is a crack
repairable?

2. I am curing 3 pieces of driftwood. I check on it every other day or
so, it's outside. Each day it is of course brown water but the nastiest
looking white slimy stringy stuff is all over the place. It's floating
everywhere throughout the water and really gross. It's long, short,
thin, thick...very varied but all white and gooey looking. What is
this?

Many thanks,
Leslie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18286 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Eclipse systems!
Ha! I had to share...

Me and my yard sale junkee step daughter went to a garage sale at lunch
today, just on a whim followed a sign.
We saw an Eclipse 6 system which made my heart speed up then behind it
was an Eclipse 3. Each totally complete w/ full hoods, filters, wheels,
lights & extras. I bought BOTH of them for $15. It's disgusting how
excited this makes me... !!!! The lights & filters each run perfectly.
Wow! lol

I plan to put plants in each one as I have read many times that plants
thrive in their light. I plan on starting my plants in these tanks to
later move them to larger tanks once they are bigger. I will also put
some small fish in each one.

I've never had plexi-glass tanks. Do they require special care? I want
these to last.

Thanks!
Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18288 From: Darlene Charlson Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse systems!
GreatJob, I know you can get some great deals at yard sales, My ex was at a
goodwill store and there was a 200 gal with a stand and light for 20$ but
instead of asking them to hold it the bone head waited til I got there which
was about 20 mins later drive time and someone had already reserved it, boy
was I pissed!! But Oh well maybe next time ;)

Darlene Uplinger-Charlson
God Bless You.
http://www.myspace.com/darlene5272




From: "Leslie & Dane Moore" <5moores@...>
Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
To: <uniquaria@yahoogroups.com>,<AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Eclipse systems!
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 12:23:21 -0500

Ha! I had to share...

Me and my yard sale junkee step daughter went to a garage sale at lunch
today, just on a whim followed a sign.
We saw an Eclipse 6 system which made my heart speed up then behind it
was an Eclipse 3. Each totally complete w/ full hoods, filters, wheels,
lights & extras. I bought BOTH of them for $15. It's disgusting how
excited this makes me... !!!! The lights & filters each run perfectly.
Wow! lol

I plan to put plants in each one as I have read many times that plants
thrive in their light. I plan on starting my plants in these tanks to
later move them to larger tanks once they are bigger. I will also put
some small fish in each one.

I've never had plexi-glass tanks. Do they require special care? I want
these to last.

Thanks!
Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18289 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: GOLDFISH AND SMELL
tell us exactly how you clean your tank and how often you do it include the filter and everything you do each time.

edel gonzalez <edgonzo19852003@...> wrote: i have them on a glass aquarium and i only have 1
ornament made out of plastic and i dont think its the
ornament because i wash it every week and it does not
smell

--- Rebecca <rebeccakarol@...> wrote:

> Hello and sorry about your smelly goldfish problem
> :)
>
> I'm really very new to fish but I was wondering what
> kind of a tank
> the goldfish are in and whether there are any
> ornaments in the tank.
>
> Many moons ago I kept a betta in the "Fairly
> Oddparents Goldfish
> Bowl." It developed a horrible chemical smell! (Now
> I have a betta in
> a 10 gallon planted tank :)
>
> I also bought a resin ornament for one of my tanks.
> It came in the
> mail and when I opened up the box the smell of it
> was horrible. I
> wound up soaking the ornament for several *weeks*
> and then washing it
> in a bleach solution before I put it in the tank. It
> took that long
> for the smell to go away.
>
> So, it's just a thought but perhaps the smell is
> coming from either
> the tank or a tank ornament?
>
> Rebecca
> South Jersey, USA
>
>
>
> > Hi i have a question about my ryukin goldfish
> >
> > i keep my water clean my filter clean and it still
> gives off a bad
> > smell like a chemical smell and rotten smell all
> together what could
> > it be?? i dont over feed my fish
> >
> > could some one plz help and tell me what this
> could be
> >
> > thanks
> >
>
>
>
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com





---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18290 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse systems!
Guess he eat kraft dinner for the rest of the week ?


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Darlene Charlson
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 14:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse systems!

GreatJob, I know you can get some great deals at yard sales, My ex was at a
goodwill store and there was a 200 gal with a stand and light for 20$ but
instead of asking them to hold it the bone head waited til I got there which

was about 20 mins later drive time and someone had already reserved it, boy
was I pissed!! But Oh well maybe next time ;)

Darlene Uplinger-Charlson
God Bless You.
http://www.myspace.com/darlene5272




From: "Leslie & Dane Moore" <5moores@...>
Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
To: <uniquaria@yahoogroups.com>,<AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Eclipse systems!
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 12:23:21 -0500

Ha! I had to share...

Me and my yard sale junkee step daughter went to a garage sale at lunch
today, just on a whim followed a sign.
We saw an Eclipse 6 system which made my heart speed up then behind it
was an Eclipse 3. Each totally complete w/ full hoods, filters, wheels,
lights & extras. I bought BOTH of them for $15. It's disgusting how
excited this makes me... !!!! The lights & filters each run perfectly.
Wow! lol

I plan to put plants in each one as I have read many times that plants
thrive in their light. I plan on starting my plants in these tanks to
later move them to larger tanks once they are bigger. I will also put
some small fish in each one.

I've never had plexi-glass tanks. Do they require special care? I want
these to last.

Thanks!
Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18291 From: AquaticLife Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: AquaticLife is Now on MySpace!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18292 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
As others have mentioned, in most cases there is no need to provide
Styrofoam as a material between aquarium and stand. If the tank and
stand have been in use together before, you should be OK without it. In
over 50 years of aquarium keeping, I've never used it, and never had any
regrets. If I were to use it, I'd look for a very dense form of
Styrofoam, or similar, not the white stuff that is commonly seen. I
don't think that has the strength or lasting ability that would be
needed. I'd definitely look at that stuff they use to help insulate
houses and serve as a base for siding.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chicagobears2010
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 2:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] what should I use?

Been reading and doing my homework before I setup my 40 gal, I read
somewhere I should put something between my aquarium and the stand,
one article mentioned styrofoam, while another mentioned plastic
sheathing....anyone have a suggestion?....can't wait to get up and
running so I can post pics...thnks Rick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18293 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
You'll always have some algae in a tank. You need to determine why it is
growing, then take steps to eliminate the cause of the growth. Once
established, live plants are a good method of defeating algae. Reducing
the nitrogen levels (ammonia, nitrates, nitrites) in your tank is
another way. Reducing Dissolve Organic Carbons (DOC) will also help.
Water changes will assist with both nitrates and DOC's. Too much light,
either in strength or in time can also create an environment for algae
to grow.

There are many ways to keep an already established algae colony under
control. The means you use would depend on the type of algae you have.
Many of the critters we keep to control algae actually have preferences
in the type of algae they will eat. This is why some people are not
successful when they choose certain critters that are supposed to
control algae, and they don't, and may actually starve to death.

Pretty much, more information would be helpful here.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of recklessdisregard
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 4:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Using Snails to Combat Algae

Hey all, new to the group scene and have a question. I've got a
120Gal aquarium that has been getting over ran with algae and i'm
opposed to tearing it completely down and bleach out everything. Will
snails help keep some of this algae at bay?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18294 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
I've been waiting for a thread I could use to tag this into.

A couple of weeks ago, I was at the local international market, serving
mainly Asian palates, and saw they had small apple snails for sale at
$3.99/lb.

Not having a need for them, I did not buy any, but it may be worth
someone's while to give these fellows a try, and save them from the
table.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 7:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Using Snails to Combat Algae

I have about 15 apple snails always at work. They are the best so far.
Malaysian Trumpet snails are another one but, they tend to overpopulate
immensely
really quick.
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18295 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
At big al they sold it 3.99 each, thy make a nice profit :-)


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 20:38
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Using Snails to Combat Algae

I've been waiting for a thread I could use to tag this into.

A couple of weeks ago, I was at the local international market, serving
mainly Asian palates, and saw they had small apple snails for sale at
$3.99/lb.

Not having a need for them, I did not buy any, but it may be worth
someone's while to give these fellows a try, and save them from the
table.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 7:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Using Snails to Combat Algae

I have about 15 apple snails always at work. They are the best so far.
Malaysian Trumpet snails are another one but, they tend to overpopulate
immensely
really quick.
Karen


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18296 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: what should I use?
Steve in my message # 18138 I talk about what foam use, but honestly I will
not put a tank on foam


Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 20:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] what should I use?

As others have mentioned, in most cases there is no need to provide
Styrofoam as a material between aquarium and stand. If the tank and
stand have been in use together before, you should be OK without it. In
over 50 years of aquarium keeping, I've never used it, and never had any
regrets. If I were to use it, I'd look for a very dense form of
Styrofoam, or similar, not the white stuff that is commonly seen. I
don't think that has the strength or lasting ability that would be
needed. I'd definitely look at that stuff they use to help insulate
houses and serve as a base for siding.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chicagobears2010
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 2:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] what should I use?

Been reading and doing my homework before I setup my 40 gal, I read
somewhere I should put something between my aquarium and the stand,
one article mentioned styrofoam, while another mentioned plastic
sheathing....anyone have a suggestion?....can't wait to get up and
running so I can post pics...thnks Rick


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18298 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with a Pacu, solve
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello I finally start a page on how to difference a Silver Pacu from
a
> Piranha, you can see good picture of the teeth
>
> http://www.aqualab.ca/pacu-pira.htm
>
> Gerard
>
Great site Gerard. If you ever need any help translating from french
to English let me know as I am fluently bilingual
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18299 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18300 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Gerard,

I can't agree with you on your ID of the fish Leslie has in the Files
section. A _Panaque nigrolineatus_ which has a steel colored body with black
striping. Nor does it appear to be a L190, _Panaque cf. nigrolineatus_.

There is a problem with identification of _Loricariids_ even from the same
area. Many look quite similar and many may simply be variations on a theme,
so to speak. Not many have been reliably identified.

For those of you who are more interested, http://www.planetcatfish.com would
be a good starting point.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I confirm my first idea, it's a Panaque nigrolineatus , I don't like to
call them Royal Pleco, as uselly the Pleco are refer to the Hypostomus type,
and since they are Panaque, it's like the Sturisoma, the fish seller call
them Royal Farlowella, it's not even the same family. But Royal Pleco is
the common name found in fish store. It's like the Tilapia people buy to
eat , they are not tilapia but near cousin. It's why they call it common
name also ....

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18301 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
So when they will fix the problem or you will know exactly what it is, come
back to me , until now it's a panaque nigrolineatus for me. Look at the
pics where you see him on the side near the tail the color are silver, it's
only a problem of camera or light if the rest don't look silver.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 23:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Gerard,

I can't agree with you on your ID of the fish Leslie has in the Files
section. A _Panaque nigrolineatus_ which has a steel colored body with black
striping. Nor does it appear to be a L190, _Panaque cf. nigrolineatus_.

There is a problem with identification of _Loricariids_ even from the same
area. Many look quite similar and many may simply be variations on a theme,
so to speak. Not many have been reliably identified.

For those of you who are more interested, http://www.planetcatfish.com would
be a good starting point.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I confirm my first idea, it's a Panaque nigrolineatus , I don't like to
call them Royal Pleco, as uselly the Pleco are refer to the Hypostomus type,
and since they are Panaque, it's like the Sturisoma, the fish seller call
them Royal Farlowella, it's not even the same family. But Royal Pleco is
the common name found in fish store. It's like the Tilapia people buy to
eat , they are not tilapia but near cousin. It's why they call it common
name also ....

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18302 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18303 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
I will like to add than I also disagree with the use of L number for design
fish, it's against the taxonomy, in the word nigrolineatus you have
something who sound like Linnaeus, who is the father of what is recognize in
all the biology as the system to desing a gender and a species, those L who
have come popular because of a German Magazine, L190 means may be
something for someone who have study the Lori. But it means nothing to a
scientific. I have the chance to study the Latin 5 years at college, with
the scientific name you can often know what it means, with number you need a
chart to compare.

It's like that in science some have opinion other have an other one.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 00:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

So when they will fix the problem or you will know exactly what it is, come
back to me , until now it's a panaque nigrolineatus for me. Look at the
pics where you see him on the side near the tail the color are silver, it's
only a problem of camera or light if the rest don't look silver.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 23:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Gerard,

I can't agree with you on your ID of the fish Leslie has in the Files
section. A _Panaque nigrolineatus_ which has a steel colored body with black
striping. Nor does it appear to be a L190, _Panaque cf. nigrolineatus_.

There is a problem with identification of _Loricariids_ even from the same
area. Many look quite similar and many may simply be variations on a theme,
so to speak. Not many have been reliably identified.

For those of you who are more interested, http://www.planetcatfish.com would
be a good starting point.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I confirm my first idea, it's a Panaque nigrolineatus , I don't like to
call them Royal Pleco, as uselly the Pleco are refer to the Hypostomus type,
and since they are Panaque, it's like the Sturisoma, the fish seller call
them Royal Farlowella, it's not even the same family. But Royal Pleco is
the common name found in fish store. It's like the Tilapia people buy to
eat , they are not tilapia but near cousin. It's why they call it common
name also ....

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18304 From: incantashia Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: Using Snails to Combat Algae
I Have Jewel Ramshorns ,they are great for eatting algae,some decaying
matter and fish food.They are small and come in a assortment of fancy
colors.I have alot of them Pink snail Light shell,frosted shell dark
snail ,lilacs,peach,golden and more .But I do have to say 1 ramshorn
is a pet more then one and ....well remember star trek and the
tribbles?.....exactly! they are great breeders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18305 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Gerard,

If one was to use the name of Linnaeus as part of a fish name, it would appear as linnaeusi, as the rule for patronyms states. linneatus in all its forms designates a line or lines in the pattern of a fish, in this case nigrolinneatus refers to black or dark lines. While the study of Latin may help some in the decoding of names, it is not an end all to understanding scientific names which are a combination of Latin, Greek words or portions of words, most often roots, native tongues Latinized by the addition of an "i", "ae", "ensis", or something similar as a designator at the end of the word.

As for L numbers, it is a well established code system for _Loricariids_ accepted by both advanced hobbyists and the scientific world that was established in DATZ a German publication. Once a name is established scientifically and accepted, the number designation disappears, though it may remain in use for sometime after the acceptance.

If one really wants to get into how names are made, they can go to http://www.iczn.org/iczn/index.jsp .

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I will like to add than I also disagree with the use of L number for design
fish, it's against the taxonomy, in the word nigrolineatus you have
something who sound like Linnaeus, who is the father of what is recognize in
all the biology as the system to desing a gender and a species, those L who
have come popular because of a German Magazine, L190 means may be
something for someone who have study the Lori. But it means nothing to a
scientific. I have the chance to study the Latin 5 years at college, with
the scientific name you can often know what it means, with number you need a
chart to compare.

It's like that in science some have opinion other have an other one.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 00:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

So when they will fix the problem or you will know exactly what it is, come
back to me , until now it's a panaque nigrolineatus for me. Look at the
pics where you see him on the side near the tail the color are silver, it's
only a problem of camera or light if the rest don't look silver.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 23:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Gerard,

I can't agree with you on your ID of the fish Leslie has in the Files
section. A _Panaque nigrolineatus_ which has a steel colored body with black
striping. Nor does it appear to be a L190, _Panaque cf. nigrolineatus_.

There is a problem with identification of _Loricariids_ even from the same
area. Many look quite similar and many may simply be variations on a theme,
so to speak. Not many have been reliably identified.

For those of you who are more interested, http://www.planetcatfish.com would
be a good starting point.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I confirm my first idea, it's a Panaque nigrolineatus , I don't like to
call them Royal Pleco, as uselly the Pleco are refer to the Hypostomus type,
and since they are Panaque, it's like the Sturisoma, the fish seller call
them Royal Farlowella, it's not even the same family. But Royal Pleco is
the common name found in fish store. It's like the Tilapia people buy to
eat , they are not tilapia but near cousin. It's why they call it common
name also ....

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18306 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Scientifically, probably when DNA sampling is routinely used for identification of fish along with the physical characteristics. Hobbyist wise, when DNA sampling becomes so cheap and easy to use, nearly anyone can run a DNA sample to compare with an accepted sample.

Currently, some species are only differentiated by internal characteristics and/or location of the fish when found. Unfortunately, accurate location information is extremely hard to come by especially on the retail side. That information is not routinely included with shipments of fish, and many fish are misidentified somewhere along the line. And don't get me started about the genetic purity of fish found at the retail level coming from hobbyists or fish farms.

As for identification of the fish in question, I did not say you were wrong, just that I don't agree with you as to the specific designation you have given the fish. Perhaps it is what you say, but I don't see the color associated with that species. Were we able to view it in person, we may reach a differing conclusion.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

So when they will fix the problem or you will know exactly what it is, come
back to me , until now it's a panaque nigrolineatus for me. Look at the
pics where you see him on the side near the tail the color are silver, it's
only a problem of camera or light if the rest don't look silver.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 23:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Gerard,

I can't agree with you on your ID of the fish Leslie has in the Files
section. A _Panaque nigrolineatus_ which has a steel colored body with black
striping. Nor does it appear to be a L190, _Panaque cf. nigrolineatus_.

There is a problem with identification of _Loricariids_ even from the same
area. Many look quite similar and many may simply be variations on a theme,
so to speak. Not many have been reliably identified.

For those of you who are more interested, http://www.planetcatfish.com would
be a good starting point.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I confirm my first idea, it's a Panaque nigrolineatus , I don't like to
call them Royal Pleco, as uselly the Pleco are refer to the Hypostomus type,
and since they are Panaque, it's like the Sturisoma, the fish seller call
them Royal Farlowella, it's not even the same family. But Royal Pleco is
the common name found in fish store. It's like the Tilapia people buy to
eat , they are not tilapia but near cousin. It's why they call it common
name also ....

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18307 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18309 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Catfish is a common name not a classification



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18310 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
I never said than Linnaeus is part of the name I said it sound like.....,
for just remember than it's him who start the Taxonomy ,

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:34
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Gerard,

If one was to use the name of Linnaeus as part of a fish name, it would
appear as linnaeusi, as the rule for patronyms states. linneatus in all its
forms designates a line or lines in the pattern of a fish, in this case
nigrolinneatus refers to black or dark lines. While the study of Latin may
help some in the decoding of names, it is not an end all to understanding
scientific names which are a combination of Latin, Greek words or portions
of words, most often roots, native tongues Latinized by the addition of an
"i", "ae", "ensis", or something similar as a designator at the end of the
word.

As for L numbers, it is a well established code system for _Loricariids_
accepted by both advanced hobbyists and the scientific world that was
established in DATZ a German publication. Once a name is established
scientifically and accepted, the number designation disappears, though it
may remain in use for sometime after the acceptance.

If one really wants to get into how names are made, they can go to
http://www.iczn.org/iczn/index.jsp .

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I will like to add than I also disagree with the use of L number for design
fish, it's against the taxonomy, in the word nigrolineatus you have
something who sound like Linnaeus, who is the father of what is recognize in
all the biology as the system to desing a gender and a species, those L who
have come popular because of a German Magazine, L190 means may be
something for someone who have study the Lori. But it means nothing to a
scientific. I have the chance to study the Latin 5 years at college, with
the scientific name you can often know what it means, with number you need a
chart to compare.

It's like that in science some have opinion other have an other one.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 00:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

So when they will fix the problem or you will know exactly what it is, come
back to me , until now it's a panaque nigrolineatus for me. Look at the
pics where you see him on the side near the tail the color are silver, it's
only a problem of camera or light if the rest don't look silver.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 23:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Gerard,

I can't agree with you on your ID of the fish Leslie has in the Files
section. A _Panaque nigrolineatus_ which has a steel colored body with black
striping. Nor does it appear to be a L190, _Panaque cf. nigrolineatus_.

There is a problem with identification of _Loricariids_ even from the same
area. Many look quite similar and many may simply be variations on a theme,
so to speak. Not many have been reliably identified.

For those of you who are more interested, http://www.planetcatfish.com would
be a good starting point.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I confirm my first idea, it's a Panaque nigrolineatus , I don't like to
call them Royal Pleco, as uselly the Pleco are refer to the Hypostomus type,
and since they are Panaque, it's like the Sturisoma, the fish seller call
them Royal Farlowella, it's not even the same family. But Royal Pleco is
the common name found in fish store. It's like the Tilapia people buy to
eat , they are not tilapia but near cousin. It's why they call it common
name also ....

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18311 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Steeve , be reassure I will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18312 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: backgrounds on tanks
Are both sides of the glass clean? The inside glass could have a coating of
algae on it, and may not be cleaned regularly--who cares?--you don't use it
to view your tank. Same goes for the outside, but dust could be the culprit
there.

Once you are sure the glass is clean, ensure the background is flat against
the glass before fastening it. This is not as easy to do as it is to say. It
is far easier to add a background to an empty tank than it is to add one to
a tank that is in use.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ann
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks

Was just wondering about the decorative backgrounds you can buy to tape onto
the back of the tanks. The one tank we just bought from someone had the
background alread on it and it looks really clear..you can see the details
in it really good..shows up nice when the light is on...but the one
background, that is very colorful that I just purchased for the other tank
barely shows up (colors/details etc)..even with the light on. Was wondering
if there's a trick to putting it on or something I'm doing wrong. any help
appreciated! Thanks.
Ann in FL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18313 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: backgrounds on tanks
Steve you point my problem here, when I buy a new tank, I put the gravel,
the plants the water and after I only notice no background :) it's get
worst when you have a external filter hang at the back. But in other end
it's not so bad, the background never really fit with the tank inside, so
with many plants at the back, it's often better to no see too much it's make
the tank more deep

With all this talk on Panaque yesterday, it give me the taste to get one,
especially the one with blue eyes Panaque suttonorum, at least the name
Baensch give to them, I will go today to see what I can find





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 09:22
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks

Are both sides of the glass clean? The inside glass could have a coating of
algae on it, and may not be cleaned regularly--who cares?--you don't use it
to view your tank. Same goes for the outside, but dust could be the culprit
there.

Once you are sure the glass is clean, ensure the background is flat against
the glass before fastening it. This is not as easy to do as it is to say. It
is far easier to add a background to an empty tank than it is to add one to
a tank that is in use.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ann
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks

Was just wondering about the decorative backgrounds you can buy to tape onto
the back of the tanks. The one tank we just bought from someone had the
background alread on it and it looks really clear..you can see the details
in it really good..shows up nice when the light is on...but the one
background, that is very colorful that I just purchased for the other tank
barely shows up (colors/details etc)..even with the light on. Was wondering
if there's a trick to putting it on or something I'm doing wrong. any help
appreciated! Thanks.
Ann in FL




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18314 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Treatment for Electric Blue Jack Depmsey (EBJD)
May be too late now, but a better description and more information is really
needed before even attempting a diagnosis of the problem your fish have.
Water quality--pH, temp., ammonia, nitrates, nitrites? Complete listing of
symptoms your fish have shown and are currently showing.

Have you talked with the source of your fish to see how others may be doing
that remain in their care, or if there have been other complaints that match
yours?


\\Steve//

P.S. I've been out of town for a week, and I am just trying to get caught up
on my messages. While I was on the road, I only checked work related
messages. scs

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of sriram21
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Treatment for Electric Blue Jack Depmsey (EBJD)

Hi,

I recently got electric blue jack dempsey. I am aware that they are
weak fish and susceptible to internal parasites. I had 4 fishes and 2
of them died. My other 2 are sick and I have tried various medication
(PraziPro, Jungle, Clout).... I have them in a hospital tank with
Clout. however.. they still seem to be going down.... They do swim at
times but then also stay at a place and this behavior is similar to
the 2 that died... Wanted to see if anyone here can help or have
suggestion.... It feels very sad to see the fish die and not be able
to help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18315 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
Your pleco may be tasting the plants, but I'd be more likely to point
the finger at the silver dollars you have. Vegetable matter makes up a
large part of their diet.

Don't know about the java fern, but none of the Loricariid type of fish
I have kept with java fern have ever touched it. The anubias has a tough
leaf, and I've never had any in a tank, but I'd suspect that the pleco
would also leave it alone, however the silver dollars have teeth, and
the toughness of the anubias may not stand up to the teeth.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Royal Pleco questions

Someone is eating my anubias at night, do royal plecos eat plants? Each
day there is a little more eaten off the edges. Grrr.
I want this to be a planted tank, is that possible w/ him?

This pleco is about 7" long, would he be OK if I bought some smaller
community fish? I don't want to buy them and have them turn into pleco
food.

I see that this type is around $35 at only 4". What should I ask for if
I decide to sell him at 7-8"? (But I want to keep him if he will work
with the community.)

~Many thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18316 From: Betty Lou Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Newbie here! Intro and question.
When I saw newbie, I'm new to the group and to aquariums on the
whole!

As a kid I had the goldfish in the bowl, but that's pretty much my
experience. I also remember being enchanted with the guppies (not
the fancy variety of today) in a tank in our 5th grade class, and
watching the small fry.

We bought our first 10 gal tank kit 2 weeks ago after the kids won 2
goldfish at a company picnic. Well, I think I don't need to tell
you how long they lasted! We have since added a heater to the set
and put some platy's, guppies, zebra danios, albino cory's, and
panda cory's to the mix. The panda cory's have since passed and we
replaced them with chinese algae eaters Friday night.

Our decor is a pink hibiscus type flower, and 2 silk greenery
bushes from the floral dept which I washed thoroughly before
putting in, and some larger polished stones on top of the tan
colored aggregate base. For "caves" and color I found two pretty
cobalt blue glasses which are in at varying angles. The fish
really seem to like these glasses!

My question is - we added the silk greenery bushes, polished rocks
and glasses while the algae eaters were floating in their bag to de-
stress and adjust to the water temp. Today when I did the 20% water
change, I noticed a black dot (about the size of the eyes) on the
abdomen of one of the male guppies. This is new in the past 48
hours. Do you think one of the new items (silk greenery, stones,
glasses or algae eaters) might be the cause of this, or is it a
breeding thing. He is a real "casa nova" and won't leave the one
female guppy alone recently. I love to watch him shake his tail!

When I did my water change I added some tap water conditioner, I
hope that will help.

Thanks everyone!

Betty Lou Kline
Your Quiet Retreat
http://www.YourQuietRetreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18317 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!
Joseph,

I'd even treat the driftwood bought at the LFS. There is a lot of
handling that goes on between the manufacturer of the piece and the LFS
where you purchase it, and who knows what it may have seen on the trip.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 5:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!

things like driftwood should be soaked in a solution of a cap of bleech
per gallon of water in a bucket for a couple of days. then aired dryed
for a few more days. Thats what you should do when buying online
anywhere. The driftwood in LFS has already had this done thats why they
look white colored. They can come on live plants too but unfortunately i
dont know anything to get them off that lol. It is normal for the
business of having pets.

Morganawolf1@... wrote: I have been seeing this a lot on
this list. People reporting things about
wormlike creatures and weird things floating around in the water, could
any of
this be related to the quality of the livestock we are getting? Could it
be
costing livestock owners more money to keep everything clean? Or is
thins all
just the norm. I have never had any of this issues in my tanks. "Knock
on
wood" and I have had stuff come in from Ebay.

Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18318 From: harry perry Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.Betty Lou
Hi and welcome to our group. You've come to the right place but it would be better if you asked questions here before you stock your tanks. This tank is totally overstocked. I predict many diseases will show up. The next will be ich.

Fish keeping is a very rewarding hobby or a disaster. You need to plan and research before hand to be successful.

It is much easier to control a 30 gal. tank than a 10 gal. The 30 gal. will be more stable as to water quality. The 30 allows for more diversity.

What works for me is one 30 gal., live plants, co2 injection, etc. etc. and I have 10 gal. tanks for breeding specific species.Just remember, in this hobby, their is no such thing as too many tanks.

I would get a bigger tank for your collection and set aside the 10 gal. as a quarantine or hospital tank.

As a total beginner you need to know about cycling your tank.Go to the message section of this group and at the top, in the box, type in , nitrogen cycle.

You will have more losses because this tank is too small for your collection and hasn't cycled yet. Don't get discouraged, just regroup and ask the group for help. That's what we're here for.

Harry

Betty Lou <mommykline@...> wrote: When I saw newbie, I'm new to the group and to aquariums on the
whole!

As a kid I had the goldfish in the bowl, but that's pretty much my
experience. I also remember being enchanted with the guppies (not
the fancy variety of today) in a tank in our 5th grade class, and
watching the small fry.

We bought our first 10 gal tank kit 2 weeks ago after the kids won 2
goldfish at a company picnic. Well, I think I don't need to tell
you how long they lasted! We have since added a heater to the set
and put some platy's, guppies, zebra danios, albino cory's, and
panda cory's to the mix. The panda cory's have since passed and we
replaced them with chinese algae eaters Friday night.

Our decor is a pink hibiscus type flower, and 2 silk greenery
bushes from the floral dept which I washed thoroughly before
putting in, and some larger polished stones on top of the tan
colored aggregate base. For "caves" and color I found two pretty
cobalt blue glasses which are in at varying angles. The fish
really seem to like these glasses!

My question is - we added the silk greenery bushes, polished rocks
and glasses while the algae eaters were floating in their bag to de-
stress and adjust to the water temp. Today when I did the 20% water
change, I noticed a black dot (about the size of the eyes) on the
abdomen of one of the male guppies. This is new in the past 48
hours. Do you think one of the new items (silk greenery, stones,
glasses or algae eaters) might be the cause of this, or is it a
breeding thing. He is a real "casa nova" and won't leave the one
female guppy alone recently. I love to watch him shake his tail!

When I did my water change I added some tap water conditioner, I
hope that will help.

Thanks everyone!

Betty Lou Kline
Your Quiet Retreat
http://www.YourQuietRetreat.com






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18319 From: Ann Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: backgrounds on tanks
Thanks Steve...you are absolutely right.I will check on the algae..give it a good cleaning. Just did water change, but will check again. The only on the larger tank isn't as colorful as the one I purchased for the 55 gal tank..and can see it really well..fits well with all the plants in there too. But again...thanks for the advice.

Oh..also, when i was at the fish store the other day was asking the lady about the algae eaters...I have one big one in the bigger tank and three in the other tank. The 3 are small, med and large....and the one in the big tank is VERY large. Since I was at the store to purchase a fish that had died the night before (reason unknown)..she told me that if I have an algae eater in the tank that is too big..get rid of it..because when they get that big they kill/eat the other fish! A friend of mine had one in his big tank that was huge and he said he'd never had that problem. Have you ever heard of this? And if you take it out..what was she suggesting I do with it???? Hmmm... Just curious. Thanks!

Ann


----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 8:21 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks


Are both sides of the glass clean? The inside glass could have a coating of
algae on it, and may not be cleaned regularly--who cares?--you don't use it
to view your tank. Same goes for the outside, but dust could be the culprit
there.

Once you are sure the glass is clean, ensure the background is flat against
the glass before fastening it. This is not as easy to do as it is to say. It
is far easier to add a background to an empty tank than it is to add one to
a tank that is in use.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ann
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks

Was just wondering about the decorative backgrounds you can buy to tape onto
the back of the tanks. The one tank we just bought from someone had the
background alread on it and it looks really clear..you can see the details
in it really good..shows up nice when the light is on...but the one
background, that is very colorful that I just purchased for the other tank
barely shows up (colors/details etc)..even with the light on. Was wondering
if there's a trick to putting it on or something I'm doing wrong. any help
appreciated! Thanks.
Ann in FL






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 8/25/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18320 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Algae Eater WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks
There are a few algae eaters that may cause problems when they grow up.
The one most likely to be seen and cause problems is not really an algae
eater, though it may have the sucker mouth associated with algae eaters
is the so called "Chinese algae eater". Their main food, as I recall, is
the mucous that is the slime coat on all fish. They may also ingest
scales as well. You really do not want any of these guys no matter what
stage they are in of their life cycle.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ann
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 11:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks

Thanks Steve...you are absolutely right.I will check on the algae..give
it a good cleaning. Just did water change, but will check again. The
only on the larger tank isn't as colorful as the one I purchased for the
55 gal tank..and can see it really well..fits well with all the plants
in there too. But again...thanks for the advice.

Oh..also, when i was at the fish store the other day was asking the lady
about the algae eaters...I have one big one in the bigger tank and three
in the other tank. The 3 are small, med and large....and the one in the
big tank is VERY large. Since I was at the store to purchase a fish
that had died the night before (reason unknown)..she told me that if I
have an algae eater in the tank that is too big..get rid of it..because
when they get that big they kill/eat the other fish! A friend of mine
had one in his big tank that was huge and he said he'd never had that
problem. Have you ever heard of this? And if you take it out..what was
she suggesting I do with it???? Hmmm... Just curious. Thanks!

Ann


----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 8:21 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks


Are both sides of the glass clean? The inside glass could have a
coating of
algae on it, and may not be cleaned regularly--who cares?--you don't
use it
to view your tank. Same goes for the outside, but dust could be the
culprit
there.

Once you are sure the glass is clean, ensure the background is flat
against
the glass before fastening it. This is not as easy to do as it is to
say. It
is far easier to add a background to an empty tank than it is to add
one to
a tank that is in use.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Ann
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks

Was just wondering about the decorative backgrounds you can buy to
tape onto
the back of the tanks. The one tank we just bought from someone had
the
background alread on it and it looks really clear..you can see the
details
in it really good..shows up nice when the light is on...but the one
background, that is very colorful that I just purchased for the other
tank
barely shows up (colors/details etc)..even with the light on. Was
wondering
if there's a trick to putting it on or something I'm doing wrong. any
help
appreciated! Thanks.
Ann in FL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18321 From: Annie Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Babies live with no filter?
Hi All, I have a 10 gal. Tank with a breeders net of gold & dalmatian sailfin molly's in it, & I need to let them loose so they can grow faster: I don't have a hood or filter for it yet, & I was wondering if they can live without a filter for awhile, with just an air stone? I do have a 4" round air stone, but prefer the smaller one for this size tank: Any help will be appreciated: Thanks bunches: Annie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18322 From: harry perry Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!/Strange things in my ta
Over the years I've tried a lot of things including collecting my own rocks and driftwood. My advice, if you aren't ready to deal with surprises don't do it.

I love to fish, as well as keep fish, I found a piece of wood, a stump, totally submerged. It had been burned, it was very old and so I thought an excellent addition to my 30 g.

I boiled it in salted water. What I found was large white worm like creatures. These were 4" long and 1/2" in diameter. They had bored into the wood. Of course they were now dead. But how many were now inside the wood, dead and deteriorating???

I ended up splitting the wood with an ax and chisel and found three more. The pieces are in my tank and look great, very natural. The process to get them there was disgusting.

The moral of the story? Think about what you put in your tank. I would agree with Steve. Process everything. Unless you know the source personally, don't trust it.

Harry

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Joseph,

I'd even treat the driftwood bought at the LFS. There is a lot of
handling that goes on between the manufacturer of the piece and the LFS
where you purchase it, and who knows what it may have seen on the trip.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 5:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Icky, Yucky, Eel-like thing in my tank!

things like driftwood should be soaked in a solution of a cap of bleech
per gallon of water in a bucket for a couple of days. then aired dryed
for a few more days. Thats what you should do when buying online
anywhere. The driftwood in LFS has already had this done thats why they
look white colored. They can come on live plants too but unfortunately i
dont know anything to get them off that lol. It is normal for the
business of having pets.

Morganawolf1@... wrote: I have been seeing this a lot on
this list. People reporting things about
wormlike creatures and weird things floating around in the water, could
any of
this be related to the quality of the livestock we are getting? Could it
be
costing livestock owners more money to keep everything clean? Or is
thins all
just the norm. I have never had any of this issues in my tanks. "Knock
on
wood" and I have had stuff come in from Ebay.

Karen





Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18323 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
I thik im lost I dont see any catfish in her pics.

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18324 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it is without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Steeve , be reassure I will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18325 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Female livebearers do have black spots in the back of the stomach because thats the baby sack. males dont get it at all. Maybe its a parasite introduced by the non aquarium stuff added?

Betty Lou <mommykline@...> wrote: When I saw newbie, I'm new to the group and to aquariums on the
whole!

As a kid I had the goldfish in the bowl, but that's pretty much my
experience. I also remember being enchanted with the guppies (not
the fancy variety of today) in a tank in our 5th grade class, and
watching the small fry.

We bought our first 10 gal tank kit 2 weeks ago after the kids won 2
goldfish at a company picnic. Well, I think I don't need to tell
you how long they lasted! We have since added a heater to the set
and put some platy's, guppies, zebra danios, albino cory's, and
panda cory's to the mix. The panda cory's have since passed and we
replaced them with chinese algae eaters Friday night.

Our decor is a pink hibiscus type flower, and 2 silk greenery
bushes from the floral dept which I washed thoroughly before
putting in, and some larger polished stones on top of the tan
colored aggregate base. For "caves" and color I found two pretty
cobalt blue glasses which are in at varying angles. The fish
really seem to like these glasses!

My question is - we added the silk greenery bushes, polished rocks
and glasses while the algae eaters were floating in their bag to de-
stress and adjust to the water temp. Today when I did the 20% water
change, I noticed a black dot (about the size of the eyes) on the
abdomen of one of the male guppies. This is new in the past 48
hours. Do you think one of the new items (silk greenery, stones,
glasses or algae eaters) might be the cause of this, or is it a
breeding thing. He is a real "casa nova" and won't leave the one
female guppy alone recently. I love to watch him shake his tail!

When I did my water change I added some tap water conditioner, I
hope that will help.

Thanks everyone!

Betty Lou Kline
Your Quiet Retreat
http://www.YourQuietRetreat.com






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18326 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: backgrounds on tanks
The chinese algae eaters do get carnivous as they get bigger and start to feed off of the fishes slime coating. Therefore the fish are vulnable to dieses and parasites. I would add a teaspoon of freshwater salt to one gallon or water to promote the fish slime to replenish itself also could try bottom dweller tablets they may go after them. If not the other fish will still eat it up.

Ann <taylor911c6@...> wrote: Thanks Steve...you are absolutely right.I will check on the algae..give it a good cleaning. Just did water change, but will check again. The only on the larger tank isn't as colorful as the one I purchased for the 55 gal tank..and can see it really well..fits well with all the plants in there too. But again...thanks for the advice.

Oh..also, when i was at the fish store the other day was asking the lady about the algae eaters...I have one big one in the bigger tank and three in the other tank. The 3 are small, med and large....and the one in the big tank is VERY large. Since I was at the store to purchase a fish that had died the night before (reason unknown)..she told me that if I have an algae eater in the tank that is too big..get rid of it..because when they get that big they kill/eat the other fish! A friend of mine had one in his big tank that was huge and he said he'd never had that problem. Have you ever heard of this? And if you take it out..what was she suggesting I do with it???? Hmmm... Just curious. Thanks!

Ann

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 8:21 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks

Are both sides of the glass clean? The inside glass could have a coating of
algae on it, and may not be cleaned regularly--who cares?--you don't use it
to view your tank. Same goes for the outside, but dust could be the culprit
there.

Once you are sure the glass is clean, ensure the background is flat against
the glass before fastening it. This is not as easy to do as it is to say. It
is far easier to add a background to an empty tank than it is to add one to
a tank that is in use.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ann
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] backgrounds on tanks

Was just wondering about the decorative backgrounds you can buy to tape onto
the back of the tanks. The one tank we just bought from someone had the
background alread on it and it looks really clear..you can see the details
in it really good..shows up nice when the light is on...but the one
background, that is very colorful that I just purchased for the other tank
barely shows up (colors/details etc)..even with the light on. Was wondering
if there's a trick to putting it on or something I'm doing wrong. any help
appreciated! Thanks.
Ann in FL

----------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 8/25/2006

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18327 From: Betty Lou Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
The odd part though is that it is very symetrical. Exactly the same
place on both sides.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
>
> Female livebearers do have black spots in the back of the stomach
because thats the baby sack. males dont get it at all. Maybe its a
parasite introduced by the non aquarium stuff added?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18328 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Babies live with no filter?
You will have to make a lot of water changing, but make sure you use a air
stone, do you have gravel t the bottom, if not the bacteria need something
to anchor, if you have a air pump for you air stone, why not put a cheap
filter in the bottom, with wool inside best will be a sponge filter.

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Annie
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 12:07
À : AquariumsFreshWater; tropicalfishclub@yahoogroups.com;
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Babies live with no filter?

Hi All, I have a 10 gal. Tank with a breeders net of gold & dalmatian
sailfin molly's in it, & I need to let them loose so they can grow faster: I
don't have a hood or filter for it yet, & I was wondering if they can live
without a filter for awhile, with just an air stone? I do have a 4" round
air stone, but prefer the smaller one for this size tank: Any help will be
appreciated: Thanks bunches: Annie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18329 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also few
J78,

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18330 From: Will Griffin Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web Sites
Hello All,

I've done a lot of work on the following web sites and I need for
people to visit them to help me make sure all of the links work
correctly, certainly as these site are also linked to each other and
I have it set that for some links this opens new browser windows.
You'll see that I have done a ton of work on these in the past
weeks, as I've had the time, taken the time, and I've made a lot of
time to do so. I've spent a lot of hours and pretty much all of my
eventings and weekends now to get these sites to the level where
they are now.

http://Aquarium-Club.com - has a lot of FREE content, notably info
for those getting started, and supplies/fish from reliabe sources
available for purchase on it and has sections for posting advanced
information, so that those who are members are not sent posts or e-
mails that are not fish/pet related.

http://Tropical-Fish-Net.com - has the same FREE beginners
information with emphasis to fish descriptions, which is its primary
purpose. The advanced breeding info is for "members" so we're not
explaining the "birds and the bees" to visit children. Supplies and
Fish for sale and links to my other sites per their core functions,
to spread the bandwidth around to make sure we don't overload any
one particular web site.

http://Aquarium-Fish.biz - has the same links as the above. In fact
links lead to above two web sites, per information and supplies, but
is primarily for the purpose of selling fish and supplies. If you
are a breeder of quality tropical fish, you may wish to contact us
to list your fish for sale and/or have links to your web site. Also
links to select pet shops and it will soon have links to
distributors and importers, for pet shops looking to buy in larger
volumes and/or as a co-op. Already I have pet shops inquiring and
wishing to order fish from those who list fish for sale at this and
the other web sites.

http://Rare-Tropicalfish.com - Similar to Aquarium-Fish.biz and has
links to this web site, but this site is more focussed on angelfish,
bettas discus, show guppies, and killifish.

http://Pet-Shops.biz - has links to all of the above web sites and
will soon have more links to pet shops and supplies and products for
pet other than fish/aquarium to include dogs, cats, birds, etc.

Please visit, enjoy and bookmark (add to favorites) all of these web
sites and do visit them often as I'm working really hard and during
all of my evenings and weekends to make some really nice, easily
navigated, informative and very useful web sites.

As I get more of the links and content in the above web sites
working correcty, I'll be putting the additional web sites for
BettaBreeders.com and GuppyBreeder.com on the air, so that those who
are listing their fish for sale will get more visitor traffic and I
continue to make sure that I do not have any one web site overloaded
with traffic, so that everybody can visit and I not have any web
site overloaded.

I deeply appreciate all who have helped me up to this point by
testing links and those who have said they would help with articles,
photos and wish to sell/supply fish. Those who do contribute
articles and other accepted content will become FREE members of the
Aquarium-Club. I'm sending this to the various groups, to make sure
all receive the notice of these sites and to have some new web sites
to visit, other than the non-aquarium/pets sites that have been
promoted in many of the groups.

Again, thank you all who have already visited my tropical-fish/pets
web sites, have given me very nice compliments and offers of help,
and who have declared their interest to list their fish for sale.

Sincerely;
Will Griffin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18331 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
With the type of mouth plecos have they would eat the whole life they dont leave bite marks

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Your pleco may be tasting the plants, but I'd be more likely to point
the finger at the silver dollars you have. Vegetable matter makes up a
large part of their diet.

Don't know about the java fern, but none of the Loricariid type of fish
I have kept with java fern have ever touched it. The anubias has a tough
leaf, and I've never had any in a tank, but I'd suspect that the pleco
would also leave it alone, however the silver dollars have teeth, and
the toughness of the anubias may not stand up to the teeth.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Royal Pleco questions

Someone is eating my anubias at night, do royal plecos eat plants? Each
day there is a little more eaten off the edges. Grrr.
I want this to be a planted tank, is that possible w/ him?

This pleco is about 7" long, would he be OK if I bought some smaller
community fish? I don't want to buy them and have them turn into pleco
food.

I see that this type is around $35 at only 4". What should I ask for if
I decide to sell him at 7-8"? (But I want to keep him if he will work
with the community.)

~Many thanks,
Leslie






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18332 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Actually Will the trick is good, you expect people go to your web and pay a
subscription, the title should be visit my web and send me some cash
$$$$$$





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Will Griffin
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 16:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

Hello All,

I've done a lot of work on the following web sites and I need for
people to visit them to help me make sure all of the links work
correctly, certainly as these site are also linked to each other and
I have it set that for some links this opens new browser windows.
You'll see that I have done a ton of work on these in the past
weeks, as I've had the time, taken the time, and I've made a lot of
time to do so. I've spent a lot of hours and pretty much all of my
eventings and weekends now to get these sites to the level where
they are now.

http://Aquarium-Club.com - has a lot of FREE content, notably info
for those getting started, and supplies/fish from reliabe sources
available for purchase on it and has sections for posting advanced
information, so that those who are members are not sent posts or e-
mails that are not fish/pet related.

http://Tropical-Fish-Net.com - has the same FREE beginners
information with emphasis to fish descriptions, which is its primary
purpose. The advanced breeding info is for "members" so we're not
explaining the "birds and the bees" to visit children. Supplies and
Fish for sale and links to my other sites per their core functions,
to spread the bandwidth around to make sure we don't overload any
one particular web site.

http://Aquarium-Fish.biz - has the same links as the above. In fact
links lead to above two web sites, per information and supplies, but
is primarily for the purpose of selling fish and supplies. If you
are a breeder of quality tropical fish, you may wish to contact us
to list your fish for sale and/or have links to your web site. Also
links to select pet shops and it will soon have links to
distributors and importers, for pet shops looking to buy in larger
volumes and/or as a co-op. Already I have pet shops inquiring and
wishing to order fish from those who list fish for sale at this and
the other web sites.

http://Rare-Tropicalfish.com - Similar to Aquarium-Fish.biz and has
links to this web site, but this site is more focussed on angelfish,
bettas discus, show guppies, and killifish.

http://Pet-Shops.biz - has links to all of the above web sites and
will soon have more links to pet shops and supplies and products for
pet other than fish/aquarium to include dogs, cats, birds, etc.

Please visit, enjoy and bookmark (add to favorites) all of these web
sites and do visit them often as I'm working really hard and during
all of my evenings and weekends to make some really nice, easily
navigated, informative and very useful web sites.

As I get more of the links and content in the above web sites
working correcty, I'll be putting the additional web sites for
BettaBreeders.com and GuppyBreeder.com on the air, so that those who
are listing their fish for sale will get more visitor traffic and I
continue to make sure that I do not have any one web site overloaded
with traffic, so that everybody can visit and I not have any web
site overloaded.

I deeply appreciate all who have helped me up to this point by
testing links and those who have said they would help with articles,
photos and wish to sell/supply fish. Those who do contribute
articles and other accepted content will become FREE members of the
Aquarium-Club. I'm sending this to the various groups, to make sure
all receive the notice of these sites and to have some new web sites
to visit, other than the non-aquarium/pets sites that have been
promoted in many of the groups.

Again, thank you all who have already visited my tropical-fish/pets
web sites, have given me very nice compliments and offers of help,
and who have declared their interest to list their fish for sale.

Sincerely;
Will Griffin






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18333 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Royal Pleco questions
My Silver time to time make small dent in the Java, but nothing to serious



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:28
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Royal Pleco questions

With the type of mouth plecos have they would eat the whole life they dont
leave bite marks

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Your pleco may be
tasting the plants, but I'd be more likely to point
the finger at the silver dollars you have. Vegetable matter makes up a
large part of their diet.

Don't know about the java fern, but none of the Loricariid type of fish
I have kept with java fern have ever touched it. The anubias has a tough
leaf, and I've never had any in a tank, but I'd suspect that the pleco
would also leave it alone, however the silver dollars have teeth, and
the toughness of the anubias may not stand up to the teeth.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Royal Pleco questions

Someone is eating my anubias at night, do royal plecos eat plants? Each
day there is a little more eaten off the edges. Grrr.
I want this to be a planted tank, is that possible w/ him?

This pleco is about 7" long, would he be OK if I bought some smaller
community fish? I don't want to buy them and have them turn into pleco
food.

I see that this type is around $35 at only 4". What should I ask for if
I decide to sell him at 7-8"? (But I want to keep him if he will work
with the community.)

~Many thanks,
Leslie






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2¢/min or less.

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates
starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18334 From: Betty Lou Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
The odd part though is that it is very symetrical. Exactly the same
place on both sides.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
>
> Female livebearers do have black spots in the back of the stomach
because thats the baby sack. males dont get it at all. Maybe its a
parasite introduced by the non aquarium stuff added?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18335 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Will I check the link where you ask for member to pay a subscription for
have more access to your site, they work fine don't worry, no need to send
me again 10 email in private ( using the member list here ) I know where to
go if I have some money to spent I will visit you,


Commercial site, spam email,



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Will Griffin
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 16:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

Hello All,

I've done a lot of work on the following web sites and I need for
people to visit them to help me make sure all of the links work
correctly, certainly as these site are also linked to each other and
I have it set that for some links this opens new browser windows.
You'll see that I have done a ton of work on these in the past
weeks, as I've had the time, taken the time, and I've made a lot of
time to do so. I've spent a lot of hours and pretty much all of my
eventings and weekends now to get these sites to the level where
they are now.

http://Aquarium-Club.com - has a lot of FREE content, notably info
for those getting started, and supplies/fish from reliabe sources
available for purchase on it and has sections for posting advanced
information, so that those who are members are not sent posts or e-
mails that are not fish/pet related.

http://Tropical-Fish-Net.com - has the same FREE beginners
information with emphasis to fish descriptions, which is its primary
purpose. The advanced breeding info is for "members" so we're not
explaining the "birds and the bees" to visit children. Supplies and
Fish for sale and links to my other sites per their core functions,
to spread the bandwidth around to make sure we don't overload any
one particular web site.

http://Aquarium-Fish.biz - has the same links as the above. In fact
links lead to above two web sites, per information and supplies, but
is primarily for the purpose of selling fish and supplies. If you
are a breeder of quality tropical fish, you may wish to contact us
to list your fish for sale and/or have links to your web site. Also
links to select pet shops and it will soon have links to
distributors and importers, for pet shops looking to buy in larger
volumes and/or as a co-op. Already I have pet shops inquiring and
wishing to order fish from those who list fish for sale at this and
the other web sites.

http://Rare-Tropicalfish.com - Similar to Aquarium-Fish.biz and has
links to this web site, but this site is more focussed on angelfish,
bettas discus, show guppies, and killifish.

http://Pet-Shops.biz - has links to all of the above web sites and
will soon have more links to pet shops and supplies and products for
pet other than fish/aquarium to include dogs, cats, birds, etc.

Please visit, enjoy and bookmark (add to favorites) all of these web
sites and do visit them often as I'm working really hard and during
all of my evenings and weekends to make some really nice, easily
navigated, informative and very useful web sites.

As I get more of the links and content in the above web sites
working correcty, I'll be putting the additional web sites for
BettaBreeders.com and GuppyBreeder.com on the air, so that those who
are listing their fish for sale will get more visitor traffic and I
continue to make sure that I do not have any one web site overloaded
with traffic, so that everybody can visit and I not have any web
site overloaded.

I deeply appreciate all who have helped me up to this point by
testing links and those who have said they would help with articles,
photos and wish to sell/supply fish. Those who do contribute
articles and other accepted content will become FREE members of the
Aquarium-Club. I'm sending this to the various groups, to make sure
all receive the notice of these sites and to have some new web sites
to visit, other than the non-aquarium/pets sites that have been
promoted in many of the groups.

Again, thank you all who have already visited my tropical-fish/pets
web sites, have given me very nice compliments and offers of help,
and who have declared their interest to list their fish for sale.

Sincerely;
Will Griffin






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18336 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Books
I did try to send this a few days ago, but, for some reason it has never
made it to the list. So here goes again.

Many of the books you may have noticed me recommending are hard to find,
or a bit on the expensive side when available as new. I just got a
mailing from Jim Forshey of The Aquatic Book Shop that lists many of
these books at decent prices. If you would like to check them out, go to
http://www.seahorses.com to look at the availability of books he has.
From my experience, Jim is a reputable dealer of aquarium books.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18337 From: wendie Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Too many free sites and forums available. People won't pay as it's not
necessary. You can go to any forum and there are a ton of people willing to
give you the information.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18338 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Books
We get it Steve I even answer it at the time.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 17:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Books

I did try to send this a few days ago, but, for some reason it has never
made it to the list. So here goes again.

Many of the books you may have noticed me recommending are hard to find,
or a bit on the expensive side when available as new. I just got a
mailing from Jim Forshey of The Aquatic Book Shop that lists many of
these books at decent prices. If you would like to check them out, go to
http://www.seahorses.com to look at the availability of books he has.
From my experience, Jim is a reputable dealer of aquarium books.

\\Steve//


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18339 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
what color is this molly? and who said it was a male? do you know how to tell male from females?

Betty Lou <mommykline@...> wrote: The odd part though is that it is very symetrical. Exactly the same
place on both sides.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
>
> Female livebearers do have black spots in the back of the stomach
because thats the baby sack. males dont get it at all. Maybe its a
parasite introduced by the non aquarium stuff added?






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18340 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Exact, but it's a new tendency, people make website about fish and ask
subscriber to pay for have full access, and of course they like to put a ad
in group like this. Tom Barr and Will Griffin are good exemple, may be
why I buy a book of Walstad instead. But contrary to Will, Tom Barr don't
send unsolicited private email to people , he get the list of those people
on this list and other place. Pls note than I have nothing about someone
making business selling info for a subscription price, what I'm again it'S
some one who is not an active member of a group, using the list of member to
make money . Funny I have the same discussion yesterday on a other group.
We have to much solicitation those day, even at the door of the market you
always have people ask you for money .







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de wendie
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 18:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

Too many free sites and forums available. People won't pay as it's not
necessary. You can go to any forum and there are a ton of people willing to
give you the information.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18341 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Now what are those?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18342 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
i agree with gerard i went to it last time and only browsed a little bit but when he said something about paying for the site itself i went back and found that to be true and deleted him from my favorites i was so disappointed. Gerard where you from?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Actually Will the trick is good, you expect people go to your web and pay a
subscription, the title should be visit my web and send me some cash
$$$$$$

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Will Griffin
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 16:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

Hello All,

I've done a lot of work on the following web sites and I need for
people to visit them to help me make sure all of the links work
correctly, certainly as these site are also linked to each other and
I have it set that for some links this opens new browser windows.
You'll see that I have done a ton of work on these in the past
weeks, as I've had the time, taken the time, and I've made a lot of
time to do so. I've spent a lot of hours and pretty much all of my
eventings and weekends now to get these sites to the level where
they are now.

http://Aquarium-Club.com - has a lot of FREE content, notably info
for those getting started, and supplies/fish from reliabe sources
available for purchase on it and has sections for posting advanced
information, so that those who are members are not sent posts or e-
mails that are not fish/pet related.

http://Tropical-Fish-Net.com - has the same FREE beginners
information with emphasis to fish descriptions, which is its primary
purpose. The advanced breeding info is for "members" so we're not
explaining the "birds and the bees" to visit children. Supplies and
Fish for sale and links to my other sites per their core functions,
to spread the bandwidth around to make sure we don't overload any
one particular web site.

http://Aquarium-Fish.biz - has the same links as the above. In fact
links lead to above two web sites, per information and supplies, but
is primarily for the purpose of selling fish and supplies. If you
are a breeder of quality tropical fish, you may wish to contact us
to list your fish for sale and/or have links to your web site. Also
links to select pet shops and it will soon have links to
distributors and importers, for pet shops looking to buy in larger
volumes and/or as a co-op. Already I have pet shops inquiring and
wishing to order fish from those who list fish for sale at this and
the other web sites.

http://Rare-Tropicalfish.com - Similar to Aquarium-Fish.biz and has
links to this web site, but this site is more focussed on angelfish,
bettas discus, show guppies, and killifish.

http://Pet-Shops.biz - has links to all of the above web sites and
will soon have more links to pet shops and supplies and products for
pet other than fish/aquarium to include dogs, cats, birds, etc.

Please visit, enjoy and bookmark (add to favorites) all of these web
sites and do visit them often as I'm working really hard and during
all of my evenings and weekends to make some really nice, easily
navigated, informative and very useful web sites.

As I get more of the links and content in the above web sites
working correcty, I'll be putting the additional web sites for
BettaBreeders.com and GuppyBreeder.com on the air, so that those who
are listing their fish for sale will get more visitor traffic and I
continue to make sure that I do not have any one web site overloaded
with traffic, so that everybody can visit and I not have any web
site overloaded.

I deeply appreciate all who have helped me up to this point by
testing links and those who have said they would help with articles,
photos and wish to sell/supply fish. Those who do contribute
articles and other accepted content will become FREE members of the
Aquarium-Club. I'm sending this to the various groups, to make sure
all receive the notice of these sites and to have some new web sites
to visit, other than the non-aquarium/pets sites that have been
promoted in many of the groups.

Again, thank you all who have already visited my tropical-fish/pets
web sites, have given me very nice compliments and offers of help,
and who have declared their interest to list their fish for sale.

Sincerely;
Will Griffin

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18343 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
A joke just to show how inconvenient is to use number to name fish ,
actually I buy only 2 bunch of plants, and so medication, the employee ask
me what is the sickness of your fish, I say no one it's just reserve. I will
have been interested by a variety of Silver I don't have but they have all
the black spot sickness. This time I bring my eye glasses, and a magnifying
glass, I look funny with that




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 18:25
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Now what are those?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Joseph I just return
from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates
starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18344 From: Betty Lou Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Its a guppy with VERY vibrant coloring - almost looks like he got
mixed up with the confetti and it got wet and stained him - not to
mention a very "fluffy" tail. When we purchased, we got a pair and
the female is more or less just plain white with a pretty plain
orange tail - not nearly so fancy.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> what color is this molly? and who said it was a male? do you know
how to tell male from females?
>
> Betty Lou <mommykline@...> wrote: The odd part though is
that it is very symetrical. Exactly the same
> place on both sides.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@>
wrote:
> >
> > Female livebearers do have black spots in the back of the
stomach
> because thats the baby sack. males dont get it at all. Maybe its a
> parasite introduced by the non aquarium stuff added?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and
30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18345 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
60 Miles north of Montreal in the province of Quebec, 6 millions people
speak French, but it's an handicap, so we have to learn English, if we want
communicate with our neighbour. My family immigrate in Canada in the years
1600 ( or around)and build this country, so we are not French we are
French Canadian.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 18:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

i agree with gerard i went to it last time and only browsed a little bit but
when he said something about paying for the site itself i went back and
found that to be true and deleted him from my favorites i was so
disappointed. Gerard where you from?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Actually Will the trick
is good, you expect people go to your web and pay a
subscription, the title should be visit my web and send me some cash
$$$$$$

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Will Griffin
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 16:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

Hello All,

I've done a lot of work on the following web sites and I need for
people to visit them to help me make sure all of the links work
correctly, certainly as these site are also linked to each other and
I have it set that for some links this opens new browser windows.
You'll see that I have done a ton of work on these in the past
weeks, as I've had the time, taken the time, and I've made a lot of
time to do so. I've spent a lot of hours and pretty much all of my
eventings and weekends now to get these sites to the level where
they are now.

http://Aquarium-Club.com - has a lot of FREE content, notably info
for those getting started, and supplies/fish from reliabe sources
available for purchase on it and has sections for posting advanced
information, so that those who are members are not sent posts or e-
mails that are not fish/pet related.

http://Tropical-Fish-Net.com - has the same FREE beginners
information with emphasis to fish descriptions, which is its primary
purpose. The advanced breeding info is for "members" so we're not
explaining the "birds and the bees" to visit children. Supplies and
Fish for sale and links to my other sites per their core functions,
to spread the bandwidth around to make sure we don't overload any
one particular web site.

http://Aquarium-Fish.biz - has the same links as the above. In fact
links lead to above two web sites, per information and supplies, but
is primarily for the purpose of selling fish and supplies. If you
are a breeder of quality tropical fish, you may wish to contact us
to list your fish for sale and/or have links to your web site. Also
links to select pet shops and it will soon have links to
distributors and importers, for pet shops looking to buy in larger
volumes and/or as a co-op. Already I have pet shops inquiring and
wishing to order fish from those who list fish for sale at this and
the other web sites.

http://Rare-Tropicalfish.com - Similar to Aquarium-Fish.biz and has
links to this web site, but this site is more focussed on angelfish,
bettas discus, show guppies, and killifish.

http://Pet-Shops.biz - has links to all of the above web sites and
will soon have more links to pet shops and supplies and products for
pet other than fish/aquarium to include dogs, cats, birds, etc.

Please visit, enjoy and bookmark (add to favorites) all of these web
sites and do visit them often as I'm working really hard and during
all of my evenings and weekends to make some really nice, easily
navigated, informative and very useful web sites.

As I get more of the links and content in the above web sites
working correcty, I'll be putting the additional web sites for
BettaBreeders.com and GuppyBreeder.com on the air, so that those who
are listing their fish for sale will get more visitor traffic and I
continue to make sure that I do not have any one web site overloaded
with traffic, so that everybody can visit and I not have any web
site overloaded.

I deeply appreciate all who have helped me up to this point by
testing links and those who have said they would help with articles,
photos and wish to sell/supply fish. Those who do contribute
articles and other accepted content will become FREE members of the
Aquarium-Club. I'm sending this to the various groups, to make sure
all receive the notice of these sites and to have some new web sites
to visit, other than the non-aquarium/pets sites that have been
promoted in many of the groups.

Again, thank you all who have already visited my tropical-fish/pets
web sites, have given me very nice compliments and offers of help,
and who have declared their interest to list their fish for sale.

Sincerely;
Will Griffin

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
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Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18346 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
You cant tryly tell by color. if you look on the two fish you would see a fin on the both of them next to the anal. If you fin is spread out like a fan it is a female. If its rod shaped that is a male. Im going to try something to help you the first photo is a female guppy do you see the bottom fin fanned out? Now the second one is the male. Notice how its rod shaped?

http://www.aquaria.info/modules.php?file=photopage&id=1037&op=modload&name=database

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1048

Betty Lou <mommykline@...> wrote:
Its a guppy with VERY vibrant coloring - almost looks like he got
mixed up with the confetti and it got wet and stained him - not to
mention a very "fluffy" tail. When we purchased, we got a pair and
the female is more or less just plain white with a pretty plain
orange tail - not nearly so fancy.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> what color is this molly? and who said it was a male? do you know
how to tell male from females?
>
> Betty Lou <mommykline@...> wrote: The odd part though is
that it is very symetrical. Exactly the same
> place on both sides.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@>
wrote:
> >
> > Female livebearers do have black spots in the back of the
stomach
> because thats the baby sack. males dont get it at all. Maybe its a
> parasite introduced by the non aquarium stuff added?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and
30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18347 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: OT: FW: - ASIH LIST SERVER - CHYTRID FOUND IN LAB ANIMALS
While this does not directly impact those who keep fish, there may be
enough people who do keep amphibians either with their fish or in
separate quarters to make this a worthwhile post. Also, there was a
question raised about the health and quality of the livestock we
purchase as well as live plants etc. that I had read earlier today. The
post below makes it a real possibility that this can indeed happen to
stocks of fish and, perhaps, plants as well.

\\Steve// <file://\\Steve//>



________________________________

From: ASIH-L-owner@...
[mailto:ASIH-L-owner@...] On Behalf Of Maureen A.
Donnelly
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 11:14 AM
To: asih-l@...
Subject: - ASIH LIST SERVER - CHYTRID FOUND IN LAB ANIMALS


Chytrid Found in Newts Purchased From Commercial Suppliers

During this year (2006) Chytrid fungus (Batrachochytrium
dendrobatidis) was found in red-spotted newts (Notophthalmus
viridescens) from two well-known commercial vendors of amphibians. In
two shipments received from a vendor in the southern portion of the
United States mortality from the disease exceeded 60% of over 400
animals. In another shipment from the East Coast, newts tested positive
for the disease but no mortality was experienced ion over a month of
quarantine. Although chytrid is very wide spread, this may be the first
report of infection in a commercial source. The purpose of this note is
to alert scientific users to the possibility of the fungus in shipments
from these and other suppliers of amphibians. Many species of
amphibians in addition to red-spotted newts are susceptible to the
disease so the concern extends beyond a single species. Chytrid infects
epidermis where it is saprophytic on keratin and may interfere with
respiration, gas exchange and uptake of chemicals. Infections are
frequently lethal. Studies indicate that Chytrid may be more
deleterious to adult and juvenile amphibians than to larvae but larvae
may carry the disease only to have it expressed after metamorphosis.
Amphibians collected and shipped as eggs or embryos may have lower or no
incidence of the disease because keratin has not yet formed in these
life stages.

To reduce the potential for problems associated with Chytrid, we
recommend that all shipments of wild-caught larvae, juvenile and adult
amphibians be inspected for the fungus. This can be done by having
someone experienced with the disease examine epidermal scrapings
microscopically or histologically. A more definitive method of
determining the presence of Chytrid is to collect epidermal swabs and
have them genetically tested via polymerase chain reaction (PCR).
Quarantining animals for two or more weeks prior to placement on study
may aid in diagnosis but will not guarantee absence of the disease.
Unusually high sloughing of skin seems to be a sign of infection in
newts.

Chytrid may be treated with anti-fungal medication such as
trimethoprimsulfadiazine (TMS), miconazole, or itraconazole (Nichols,
D.K. and E.W. Lamirande Froglog, the Newsletter of the Declining
Amphibian Populations Task Force, August 2001, No.46). However,
investigators should consider if the medication will interfere with the
results of the research.

For additional information you may contact Dr. Donald Sparling,
Cooperative Wildlife Research Laboratory (dsparl@...) or Gretchen
Flohr, Department of Zoology (GPadgettFlohr@...), Southern Illinois
University, Carbondale, IL. 62901.

--


************************************************************************
********
Maureen A. Donnelly, PhD
ph: 305.348.1235/348.6513
Professor
FAX: 305.348.1986
Biological Sciences - OE 167
email: donnelly@...
Florida International University
street: 11200 SW 8th St.
University Park
bio office: 305.348.2201
Miami, FL 33199
www.fiu.edu/~donnelly

Graduate Program Director Biological Sciences
ASIH Secretary
www.fiu.edu/~biology1/grad/index.html
www.asih.org

************************************************************************
********




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18348 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
Well I'm french canadian but in USA. Asked that because you gave numbers to fish and never heard of that thought maybe your country did things like that?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: 60 Miles north of Montreal in the province of Quebec, 6 millions people
speak French, but it's an handicap, so we have to learn English, if we want
communicate with our neighbour. My family immigrate in Canada in the years
1600 ( or around)and build this country, so we are not French we are
French Canadian.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 18:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

i agree with gerard i went to it last time and only browsed a little bit but
when he said something about paying for the site itself i went back and
found that to be true and deleted him from my favorites i was so
disappointed. Gerard where you from?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Actually Will the trick
is good, you expect people go to your web and pay a
subscription, the title should be visit my web and send me some cash
$$$$$$

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Will Griffin
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 16:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

Hello All,

I've done a lot of work on the following web sites and I need for
people to visit them to help me make sure all of the links work
correctly, certainly as these site are also linked to each other and
I have it set that for some links this opens new browser windows.
You'll see that I have done a ton of work on these in the past
weeks, as I've had the time, taken the time, and I've made a lot of
time to do so. I've spent a lot of hours and pretty much all of my
eventings and weekends now to get these sites to the level where
they are now.

http://Aquarium-Club.com - has a lot of FREE content, notably info
for those getting started, and supplies/fish from reliabe sources
available for purchase on it and has sections for posting advanced
information, so that those who are members are not sent posts or e-
mails that are not fish/pet related.

http://Tropical-Fish-Net.com - has the same FREE beginners
information with emphasis to fish descriptions, which is its primary
purpose. The advanced breeding info is for "members" so we're not
explaining the "birds and the bees" to visit children. Supplies and
Fish for sale and links to my other sites per their core functions,
to spread the bandwidth around to make sure we don't overload any
one particular web site.

http://Aquarium-Fish.biz - has the same links as the above. In fact
links lead to above two web sites, per information and supplies, but
is primarily for the purpose of selling fish and supplies. If you
are a breeder of quality tropical fish, you may wish to contact us
to list your fish for sale and/or have links to your web site. Also
links to select pet shops and it will soon have links to
distributors and importers, for pet shops looking to buy in larger
volumes and/or as a co-op. Already I have pet shops inquiring and
wishing to order fish from those who list fish for sale at this and
the other web sites.

http://Rare-Tropicalfish.com - Similar to Aquarium-Fish.biz and has
links to this web site, but this site is more focussed on angelfish,
bettas discus, show guppies, and killifish.

http://Pet-Shops.biz - has links to all of the above web sites and
will soon have more links to pet shops and supplies and products for
pet other than fish/aquarium to include dogs, cats, birds, etc.

Please visit, enjoy and bookmark (add to favorites) all of these web
sites and do visit them often as I'm working really hard and during
all of my evenings and weekends to make some really nice, easily
navigated, informative and very useful web sites.

As I get more of the links and content in the above web sites
working correcty, I'll be putting the additional web sites for
BettaBreeders.com and GuppyBreeder.com on the air, so that those who
are listing their fish for sale will get more visitor traffic and I
continue to make sure that I do not have any one web site overloaded
with traffic, so that everybody can visit and I not have any web
site overloaded.

I deeply appreciate all who have helped me up to this point by
testing links and those who have said they would help with articles,
photos and wish to sell/supply fish. Those who do contribute
articles and other accepted content will become FREE members of the
Aquarium-Club. I'm sending this to the various groups, to make sure
all receive the notice of these sites and to have some new web sites
to visit, other than the non-aquarium/pets sites that have been
promoted in many of the groups.

Again, thank you all who have already visited my tropical-fish/pets
web sites, have given me very nice compliments and offers of help,
and who have declared their interest to list their fish for sale.

Sincerely;
Will Griffin

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18349 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New Fish/Aquarium Web
NO it'S the DATZ magazine in Germany in 1988 who start to name the new
Loricariidae non yet identify with L number (ex L27) , So suckerfish
collector use those # until they find a real taxonomy to the fish. It's the
problem with the taxonomy of the fish, some have # some change name 3 time a
years, I'm not to fanatic of the name of the fish, If I like it and fit in
my tank, I don't care to much about the name . I have 4 different variety of
Silver Dollar here; don't even ask me what variety it is, But I know if you
give them Spirulina flakes, they don't touch the plants.


I have a lot of family in Vermont and other part of US too.


Gerard










-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 19:34
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

Well I'm french canadian but in USA. Asked that because you gave numbers to
fish and never heard of that thought maybe your country did things like
that?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: 60 Miles north of
Montreal in the province of Quebec, 6 millions people
speak French, but it's an handicap, so we have to learn English, if we want
communicate with our neighbour. My family immigrate in Canada in the years
1600 ( or around)and build this country, so we are not French we are
French Canadian.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 18:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

i agree with gerard i went to it last time and only browsed a little bit but
when he said something about paying for the site itself i went back and
found that to be true and deleted him from my favorites i was so
disappointed. Gerard where you from?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Actually Will the trick
is good, you expect people go to your web and pay a
subscription, the title should be visit my web and send me some cash
$$$$$$

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Will Griffin
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 16:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Please Help Me Test Links on Updates and New
Fish/Aquarium Web Sites

Hello All,

I've done a lot of work on the following web sites and I need for
people to visit them to help me make sure all of the links work
correctly, certainly as these site are also linked to each other and
I have it set that for some links this opens new browser windows.
You'll see that I have done a ton of work on these in the past
weeks, as I've had the time, taken the time, and I've made a lot of
time to do so. I've spent a lot of hours and pretty much all of my
eventings and weekends now to get these sites to the level where
they are now.

http://Aquarium-Club.com - has a lot of FREE content, notably info
for those getting started, and supplies/fish from reliabe sources
available for purchase on it and has sections for posting advanced
information, so that those who are members are not sent posts or e-
mails that are not fish/pet related.

http://Tropical-Fish-Net.com - has the same FREE beginners
information with emphasis to fish descriptions, which is its primary
purpose. The advanced breeding info is for "members" so we're not
explaining the "birds and the bees" to visit children. Supplies and
Fish for sale and links to my other sites per their core functions,
to spread the bandwidth around to make sure we don't overload any
one particular web site.

http://Aquarium-Fish.biz - has the same links as the above. In fact
links lead to above two web sites, per information and supplies, but
is primarily for the purpose of selling fish and supplies. If you
are a breeder of quality tropical fish, you may wish to contact us
to list your fish for sale and/or have links to your web site. Also
links to select pet shops and it will soon have links to
distributors and importers, for pet shops looking to buy in larger
volumes and/or as a co-op. Already I have pet shops inquiring and
wishing to order fish from those who list fish for sale at this and
the other web sites.

http://Rare-Tropicalfish.com - Similar to Aquarium-Fish.biz and has
links to this web site, but this site is more focussed on angelfish,
bettas discus, show guppies, and killifish.

http://Pet-Shops.biz - has links to all of the above web sites and
will soon have more links to pet shops and supplies and products for
pet other than fish/aquarium to include dogs, cats, birds, etc.

Please visit, enjoy and bookmark (add to favorites) all of these web
sites and do visit them often as I'm working really hard and during
all of my evenings and weekends to make some really nice, easily
navigated, informative and very useful web sites.

As I get more of the links and content in the above web sites
working correcty, I'll be putting the additional web sites for
BettaBreeders.com and GuppyBreeder.com on the air, so that those who
are listing their fish for sale will get more visitor traffic and I
continue to make sure that I do not have any one web site overloaded
with traffic, so that everybody can visit and I not have any web
site overloaded.

I deeply appreciate all who have helped me up to this point by
testing links and those who have said they would help with articles,
photos and wish to sell/supply fish. Those who do contribute
articles and other accepted content will become FREE members of the
Aquarium-Club. I'm sending this to the various groups, to make sure
all receive the notice of these sites and to have some new web sites
to visit, other than the non-aquarium/pets sites that have been
promoted in many of the groups.

Again, thank you all who have already visited my tropical-fish/pets
web sites, have given me very nice compliments and offers of help,
and who have declared their interest to list their fish for sale.

Sincerely;
Will Griffin

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done
faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18350 From: Betty Lou Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Oh I'm sure it's a male. and the spot seems to be external more than
internal - it so coal black - not like seen thru an opaque surface.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18352 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Let's take a look at the classification--English name follows the scientific name (I hope the formatting holds fairly well):

Animilia (animals)
Eumetazoa (metazoans)
Bilateria (bilaterally symmetrical animals)
Deuterostoma (deuterostomas)
Chordata (chordates)
Craniata (craniates)
Vertevrata (vertebrates)
Gnathostomata (jawed vertebrates)
Euteleostomi (boney vertebrates)
Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes)
Neopterygii
Teleostei
Ostariophysi
Siluriformes (catfishes)
Loricariidae (armored catfishes and suckermouth armored catfishes)

I got this information from http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/site/accounts/information/Actinopterygii.html and loaded the applet showing the taxon tree. Then I did a search on Loricariid. This is pretty much what I have seen on other sites and in books. Therefore it seems to be widely accepted that the order _Siluriformes_ contains catfish species and is referred to as catfishes as a common name. As one can see, not all listings in the tree have common names. Therefore I feel my original statement that all Loricariids are catfish but not all catfish are Loricariids.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 8:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Catfish is a common name not a classification



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18353 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
It was Linnaeus who started the binomial form of taxonomy. Taxonomy existed prior to Linnaeus, but he was the first to start using the binomial form and lay down rules as to how it was to be applied.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 8:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I never said than Linnaeus is part of the name I said it sound like.....,
for just remember than it's him who start the Taxonomy ,

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:34
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Gerard,

If one was to use the name of Linnaeus as part of a fish name, it would
appear as linnaeusi, as the rule for patronyms states. linneatus in all its
forms designates a line or lines in the pattern of a fish, in this case
nigrolinneatus refers to black or dark lines. While the study of Latin may
help some in the decoding of names, it is not an end all to understanding
scientific names which are a combination of Latin, Greek words or portions
of words, most often roots, native tongues Latinized by the addition of an
"i", "ae", "ensis", or something similar as a designator at the end of the
word.

As for L numbers, it is a well established code system for _Loricariids_
accepted by both advanced hobbyists and the scientific world that was
established in DATZ a German publication. Once a name is established
scientifically and accepted, the number designation disappears, though it
may remain in use for sometime after the acceptance.

If one really wants to get into how names are made, they can go to
http://www.iczn.org/iczn/index.jsp .

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I will like to add than I also disagree with the use of L number for design
fish, it's against the taxonomy, in the word nigrolineatus you have
something who sound like Linnaeus, who is the father of what is recognize in
all the biology as the system to desing a gender and a species, those L who
have come popular because of a German Magazine, L190 means may be
something for someone who have study the Lori. But it means nothing to a
scientific. I have the chance to study the Latin 5 years at college, with
the scientific name you can often know what it means, with number you need a
chart to compare.

It's like that in science some have opinion other have an other one.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 00:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

So when they will fix the problem or you will know exactly what it is, come
back to me , until now it's a panaque nigrolineatus for me. Look at the
pics where you see him on the side near the tail the color are silver, it's
only a problem of camera or light if the rest don't look silver.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 23:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Gerard,

I can't agree with you on your ID of the fish Leslie has in the Files
section. A _Panaque nigrolineatus_ which has a steel colored body with black
striping. Nor does it appear to be a L190, _Panaque cf. nigrolineatus_.

There is a problem with identification of _Loricariids_ even from the same
area. Many look quite similar and many may simply be variations on a theme,
so to speak. Not many have been reliably identified.

For those of you who are more interested, http://www.planetcatfish.com would
be a good starting point.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I confirm my first idea, it's a Panaque nigrolineatus , I don't like to
call them Royal Pleco, as uselly the Pleco are refer to the Hypostomus type,
and since they are Panaque, it's like the Sturisoma, the fish seller call
them Royal Farlowella, it's not even the same family. But Royal Pleco is
the common name found in fish store. It's like the Tilapia people buy to
eat , they are not tilapia but near cousin. It's why they call it common
name also ....

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18354 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
One of the things Axelrod's books are renown for are taxonomic errors as well as misidentifications. It is not surprising that the Baensch Atlas would differ in the names for that reason, and for the reason that taxonomy does not stand still. There are name changes happening quite frequently as fish are reclassified by scientists and errors are corrected. If I need a source for a true name, I'll normally go to fishbase.org now, because they seem to keep relatively up to date and do show the different names that have been associated with a species, making it easier to find.

One might argue the color as a grey, a silver, or a steel for _Panaque nigrolinneatus_, but it is pretty difficult to turn those colors into a brown and retain the colors in the rest of the photo. I do know some pretty good Photoshop people that could do that, but I doubt anyone here would take the time to do it, and do it well enough not to readily show. I'll stand by my original statement that the fish in question is probably an L27--and one of the _Panaque_ genus, but that is as far as I'll go without seeing the fish in person.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 8:39 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve , be reassure I will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18355 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a member of the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and numbers.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also few
J78,

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18356 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/27/2006
Subject: Re: Birthday Reminder
thanks so much very sweet of you... I have been so busy with working 2 jobs
this past year I haven't had much time to post or talk fish but I hope that is
to soon change... see you all soon.. Shannon




HAPPY BIRTHDAY
SHANNAN









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18357 From: Aaron Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: FREE 100 gallon SW tank complete with fish (Burlingame, CA)
Yes, it's still available. Do you know how to take care of salt
water fish? If you can get some help and be at my classroom by 9:30
am tomorrow, Monday, it's all yours. It is surely worth more than
$2,000.00 tank and stand alone. So good luck and I hope you can own
it tomorrow morning!

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Reply to: sale-199194284@...
Date: 2006-08-26, 10:43AM PDT

We need to get rid of our large salt water tank in our classroom
before school begins on Tuesday! Teacher left without taking the
tank with him so we have no choice but to give it away. It's
approximately 100 gallon glass tank with stand, has live corral and
beautiful fish, pumps, skimmer and food. Come take it all - you haul
off. Serious hobbiest only please because we don't want this tank to
go to waste.

Reply to: sale-199194284@...

=================================================================
this is a re-post from craigslist, I could not get enough people
together to move this


Anybody who does attempt this must have (just guessing);
a) at least 4 people to move the tank and stand which could weigh as
much as 200 - 300 pounds each depending on the type of wood and
thickness of the glass.
b) several (5 - 7 depending on how much coral, live rock and fish)
very well insulated 15 gallon or larger containers with tight
fitting lids - preferably large Ice Chests - for the coral, live
rock and fish (each packed separately)
c) as many as 16 sterilized 5gallon water bottles with lids for the
rest of the water
d) lots of large very clean buckets for the sand and crushed coral
e) enough NEW plastic bags and bands (like the fish stores use) for
each fish and coral to be bagged separately in water, then placed
into the Ice Chests with water, that way they will not "slosh"
around so violently
f) Large fish nets to catch the fish and hoses to siphon out the
water
g) enough submersible heaters for each Ice Chest to keep the right
temp.
h) power inverters to convert the vehicles cigarette lighter 'juice'
into household current
i) a truck, preferably covered, like a moving van to protect the
tank from debris
j) moving blankets, rope, a furniture dolly, tape, and other common
moving supplies
k) most importantly A Very Well Thought-Out Plan-of-Action, Common
Sense, and Experience, as well as an appropriate place to move this
to

I only have about 80% of that list at this late hour. I must stock
up on the rest for by chance such a golden opportunity comes my way
in the future.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18358 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Books
I did not remember whether I had sent it or not. I just got back from being out of town and had over 1500 messages waiting for me (only about 20 or so were spam), and have spent all weekend slogging through them, with more coming in as I worked.. This may have not been the only duplicate I sent, if I received more than one of the same message.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 6:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Books

We get it Steve I even answer it at the time.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 17:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Books

I did try to send this a few days ago, but, for some reason it has never
made it to the list. So here goes again.

Many of the books you may have noticed me recommending are hard to find,
or a bit on the expensive side when available as new. I just got a
mailing from Jim Forshey of The Aquatic Book Shop that lists many of
these books at decent prices. If you would like to check them out, go to
http://www.seahorses.com to look at the availability of books he has.
From my experience, Jim is a reputable dealer of aquarium books.

\\Steve//


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18359 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Birthday Reminder
Hi Shannon, Good to see you back posting a little bit again. Your
working two jobs explains why you haven't been here in a good while.
Just thought I'd extend wishes for a Happy Birthday as the
opportunity arose, but I regret the inadvertant typo which I realized
after sending the message. I went back and deleted the message on
the group site, but that does not delete the email that was sent out,
and unlike some other groups I'm on, messages cannot be edited
(corrected) here; sorry about that. Well, I tried; you're very
gracious for not mentioning that. Hope to see more from you soon.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
>
> thanks so much very sweet of you... I have been so busy with
working 2 jobs
> this past year I haven't had much time to post or talk fish but I
hope that is
> to soon change... see you all soon.. Shannon
>
>
>
>
> HAPPY BIRTHDAY
> SHANNAN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18360 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
It's exactly what I means English is a common name , how long you will
continue Steve, I know a Silure and Pleco are catfish, I just means than a
catfish is suppose to have a moustache like a cat (it's a joke)


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Let's take a look at the classification--English name follows the scientific
name (I hope the formatting holds fairly well):

Animilia (animals)
Eumetazoa (metazoans)
Bilateria (bilaterally symmetrical animals)
Deuterostoma (deuterostomas)
Chordata (chordates)
Craniata (craniates)
Vertevrata (vertebrates)
Gnathostomata (jawed vertebrates)
Euteleostomi (boney vertebrates)
Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes)
Neopterygii
Teleostei
Ostariophysi
Siluriformes (catfishes)
Loricariidae (armored catfishes and
suckermouth armored catfishes)

I got this information from
http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/site/accounts/information/Actinopteryg
ii.html and loaded the applet showing the taxon tree. Then I did a search on
Loricariid. This is pretty much what I have seen on other sites and in
books. Therefore it seems to be widely accepted that the order
_Siluriformes_ contains catfish species and is referred to as catfishes as a
common name. As one can see, not all listings in the tree have common names.
Therefore I feel my original statement that all Loricariids are catfish but
not all catfish are Loricariids.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 8:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Catfish is a common name not a classification



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18361 From: Paul Sternitzke Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: FREE 100 gallon SW tank complete with fish (Burlingame, CA)
Where is the tank located???
Paul S


----- Original Message -----
From: Aaron
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 8/28/2006 3:57:53 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] FREE 100 gallon SW tank complete with fish (Burlingame, CA)


Yes, it's still available. Do you know how to take care of salt
water fish? If you can get some help and be at my classroom by 9:30
am tomorrow, Monday, it's all yours. It is surely worth more than
$2,000.00 tank and stand alone. So good luck and I hope you can own
it tomorrow morning!

----------------------------------------------------------

Reply to: sale-199194284@...
Date: 2006-08-26, 10:43AM PDT

We need to get rid of our large salt water tank in our classroom
before school begins on Tuesday! Teacher left without taking the
tank with him so we have no choice but to give it away. It's
approximately 100 gallon glass tank with stand, has live corral and
beautiful fish, pumps, skimmer and food. Come take it all - you haul
off. Serious hobbiest only please because we don't want this tank to
go to waste.

Reply to: sale-199194284@...

=================================================================
this is a re-post from craigslist, I could not get enough people
together to move this

Anybody who does attempt this must have (just guessing);
a) at least 4 people to move the tank and stand which could weigh as
much as 200 - 300 pounds each depending on the type of wood and
thickness of the glass.
b) several (5 - 7 depending on how much coral, live rock and fish)
very well insulated 15 gallon or larger containers with tight
fitting lids - preferably large Ice Chests - for the coral, live
rock and fish (each packed separately)
c) as many as 16 sterilized 5gallon water bottles with lids for the
rest of the water
d) lots of large very clean buckets for the sand and crushed coral
e) enough NEW plastic bags and bands (like the fish stores use) for
each fish and coral to be bagged separately in water, then placed
into the Ice Chests with water, that way they will not "slosh"
around so violently
f) Large fish nets to catch the fish and hoses to siphon out the
water
g) enough submersible heaters for each Ice Chest to keep the right
temp.
h) power inverters to convert the vehicles cigarette lighter 'juice'
into household current
i) a truck, preferably covered, like a moving van to protect the
tank from debris
j) moving blankets, rope, a furniture dolly, tape, and other common
moving supplies
k) most importantly A Very Well Thought-Out Plan-of-Action, Common
Sense, and Experience, as well as an appropriate place to move this
to

I only have about 80% of that list at this late hour. I must stock
up on the rest for by chance such a golden opportunity comes my way
in the future.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18362 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Again here it's a joke Steve, to show how inconvenient it is to use number
look an other email to Jo


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and numbers.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also few
J78,

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18363 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine, passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard, when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and numbers.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also few
J78,

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18364 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine, passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard, when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and numbers.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also few
J78,

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18365 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18366 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
It's relevant Leslie, Steve don't like the ID I give to your fish, but he
don't know what is it. So the question is it better to have a wrong name or
no name ? ( it's remember my philosophy classes at college when the teacher
say by convention we call a table table, but we can give the name we want to
it. ) So seriously after 10 days we not sure what kind of fish it is (
between me and you , what's bother me it's not the color , who can be
wrong, but the tail is all the same color in a Panague nigrolineatus , the
tail have a vertical stripe, ) so it's a Panaque somethingus



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 09:23
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?


ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18367 From: angel_kittys_mom Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Hi! Newbie Intro and Question
Hi everyone,

I've been lurking for a month or so, and I'd like to thank everyone
for all the help and terrific info you've (unknowingly!) given me.
I'm grateful to have found a group with such experienced and highly
qualified members.

I'm a former teacher who purchased tons of fishkeeping stuff for my
classroom and then (for several reasons) never set it up. It's been
lying around the house for 3-4 years! A couple of months ago my
daughter and I set up a 10 gallon tank and populated it with 5 male
guppies (initially), 4 corys, and 3 dwarf african frogs. (The tank
was populated before we knew better than to add so many in such a
short period of time.) We've made frequent water changes and have
used Amquel if needed. We have a Hagen All Clear 50 filter on this
tank which I am now running with only the foam and BioMax; we're
getting test results of ammonia zero and nitrite zero with API test
kits. I haven't tested for nitrate, figuring that with all the water
changes, nitrate couldn't possibly be a problem! Amazingly --
considering the load on this tank and our inexperience -- everybody
has survived and is doing fine.

We now want to set up one of the two 29-tallon tanks and transfer
everybody into it, keeping the 10 gallon for a quarantine tank. I
stuck an extra sponge into the filter with this in mind, and would
transfer this sponge plus some of the gravel from the 10 gallon
tank. Does this seem reasonable? Or is it too much, too soon, for
the fish?

We love our corys, and want to add more of them after the transfer,
after we're sure things are stable. I've recently learned about a
fish called a "Sunset cory." Does anyone in the group know anything
about this fish or have experience with it?

Thanks in advance,

Michelle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18368 From: l.nave@comcast.net Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Over time my vinyl tubing I use to transfer water or clean my aquariums get a black mold inside...any suggestions on cleaning and then how to eliminate the toxicity of the cleaner.....I know the products for cleaning mold in the show would work.....but would be toxic...
--
Larry
Carmichael-Sacramento
Bandit, Lefty, Molly, Indy and fish....

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18369 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Birthday Reminder
oh no worries I have been called much worse IM sure LOL>. as for my fish all
are doing really well.. I have been shocked that it has really been totally
uneventful over the past year... I had one dwarf frog die.. never knew why...
I would like the change up my main tank but that will have to wait till I
can put them money into it... thanks again ray..
Shannon




Hi Shannon, Good to see you back posting a little bit again. Your
working two jobs explains why you haven't been here in a good while.
Just thought I'd extend wishes for a Happy Birthday as the
opportunity arose, but I regret the inadvertant typo which I realized
after sending the message. I went back and deleted the message on
the group site, but that does not delete the email that was sent out,
and unlike some other groups I'm on, messages cannot be edited
(corrected) here; sorry about that. Well, I tried; you're very
gracious for not mentioning that. Hope to see more from you soon.
Ray

--- In _AquaticLife@AquaticLife@Aqu_ (mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com) ,
agentscullyeyore@, agents
>
>
> thanks so much very sweet of you... I have been so busy with
working 2 jobs
> this past year I haven't had much time to post or talk fish but I
hope that is
> to soon change... see you all soon.. Shannon
>
>
>
>
> HAPPY BIRTHDAY
> SHANNAN








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18370 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Hi! Newbie Intro and Question
Checked my sites the sunset cory doesnt seem to come up. Did you happen upon a scientific name cuz common names can change at times. So it doesnt mean its not on them. Anyways are you going to get a bigger filter for that 29? What you can do is use some of the gravel and one of the sponges from the 10 gallon to put into the 29 gallon tank. Run it for like a week and then make sure that you test both tanks for Ph and regulate the 29 gallon to match the 10 gallon if needed. Then I would add them in slowly. Try doing it like a few a day. Within a couple of days. Yes moving them would be streesful I would use some stress coat in the 29 gallon afterwards

angel_kittys_mom <angel_kittys_mom@...> wrote: Hi everyone,

I've been lurking for a month or so, and I'd like to thank everyone
for all the help and terrific info you've (unknowingly!) given me.
I'm grateful to have found a group with such experienced and highly
qualified members.

I'm a former teacher who purchased tons of fishkeeping stuff for my
classroom and then (for several reasons) never set it up. It's been
lying around the house for 3-4 years! A couple of months ago my
daughter and I set up a 10 gallon tank and populated it with 5 male
guppies (initially), 4 corys, and 3 dwarf african frogs. (The tank
was populated before we knew better than to add so many in such a
short period of time.) We've made frequent water changes and have
used Amquel if needed. We have a Hagen All Clear 50 filter on this
tank which I am now running with only the foam and BioMax; we're
getting test results of ammonia zero and nitrite zero with API test
kits. I haven't tested for nitrate, figuring that with all the water
changes, nitrate couldn't possibly be a problem! Amazingly --
considering the load on this tank and our inexperience -- everybody
has survived and is doing fine.

We now want to set up one of the two 29-tallon tanks and transfer
everybody into it, keeping the 10 gallon for a quarantine tank. I
stuck an extra sponge into the filter with this in mind, and would
transfer this sponge plus some of the gravel from the 10 gallon
tank. Does this seem reasonable? Or is it too much, too soon, for
the fish?

We love our corys, and want to add more of them after the transfer,
after we're sure things are stable. I've recently learned about a
fish called a "Sunset cory." Does anyone in the group know anything
about this fish or have experience with it?

Thanks in advance,

Michelle






---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18371 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Well you could always soak it in a capful of bleach per gallon of water in a bucker for a couple of days then let it air dry for a few more days to declorine it.

l.nave@... wrote: Over time my vinyl tubing I use to transfer water or clean my aquariums get a black mold inside...any suggestions on cleaning and then how to eliminate the toxicity of the cleaner.....I know the products for cleaning mold in the show would work.....but would be toxic...
--
Larry
Carmichael-Sacramento
Bandit, Lefty, Molly, Indy and fish....

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18372 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
I usually fill a bucket full of a bleach solution and then use the hose to
syphon it out.. this bleaches the inside of the tube making it cleaner.. It
will never look like new but will make it a lot cleaner. Then I just run
tap water through it for awhile.. I have a python so i hook it to the outside
faucet and let errrr rip for about 5 minutes....

The next time I use use the hose I make sure to rinse the hose one more time
before using it...
So far no problems ( knock on wood mean vinyl tubing )



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net


In a message dated 8/28/2006 5:12:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@... writes:




Well you could always soak it in a capful of bleach per gallon of water in a
bucker for a couple of days then let it air dry for a few more days to
declorine it.

_l.nave@comcast.l.n_ (mailto:l.nave@...) wrote: Over time my vinyl
tubing I use to transfer water or clean my aquariums get a black mold
inside...any suggestions on cleaning and then how to eliminate the toxicity of the
cleaner..... wrote: Over time my vinyl tubing I use to transfer water or clean
my aquariums get a
--
Larry
Carmichael-SacramenCa
Bandit, Lefty, Molly, Indy and fish....











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18373 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
I have this problem with tubing for my canister filters after only 8 months!
I run a brush through the tubing when cleaning the canister, and it gets
some of the crud out, but not all. Is the tubing very expensive? I thought
I would just replace it every year or two??



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of FortWayneFish@...
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 5:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing





I usually fill a bucket full of a bleach solution and then use the hose to
syphon it out.. this bleaches the inside of the tube making it cleaner.. It
will never look like new but will make it a lot cleaner. Then I just run
tap water through it for awhile.. I have a python so i hook it to the
outside
faucet and let errrr rip for about 5 minutes....

The next time I use use the hose I make sure to rinse the hose one more time

before using it...
So far no problems ( knock on wood mean vinyl tubing )



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net

In a message dated 8/28/2006 5:12:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@yahoo. <mailto:jrreid3rd1%40yahoo.com> com writes:

Well you could always soak it in a capful of bleach per gallon of water in a

bucker for a couple of days then let it air dry for a few more days to
declorine it.

_l.nave@comcast. <mailto:_l.nave%40comcast.l.n> l.n_ (mailto:l.nave@comcast.
<mailto:l.nave%40comcast.net> net) wrote: Over time my vinyl
tubing I use to transfer water or clean my aquariums get a black mold
inside...any suggestions on cleaning and then how to eliminate the toxicity
of the
cleaner..... wrote: Over time my vinyl tubing I use to transfer water or
clean
my aquariums get a
--
Larry
Carmichael-SacramenCa
Bandit, Lefty, Molly, Indy and fish....

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18374 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Donna If you keep the tube always running and wet I don't see the problem,
what can be done is to cover the tube with something opaque, it will slow
the accumulation.


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 18:15
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing

I have this problem with tubing for my canister filters after only 8 months!
I run a brush through the tubing when cleaning the canister, and it gets
some of the crud out, but not all. Is the tubing very expensive? I thought
I would just replace it every year or two??



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of FortWayneFish@...
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 5:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing





I usually fill a bucket full of a bleach solution and then use the hose to
syphon it out.. this bleaches the inside of the tube making it cleaner.. It
will never look like new but will make it a lot cleaner. Then I just run
tap water through it for awhile.. I have a python so i hook it to the
outside
faucet and let errrr rip for about 5 minutes....

The next time I use use the hose I make sure to rinse the hose one more time

before using it...
So far no problems ( knock on wood mean vinyl tubing )



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net

In a message dated 8/28/2006 5:12:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@yahoo. <mailto:jrreid3rd1%40yahoo.com> com writes:

Well you could always soak it in a capful of bleach per gallon of water in a

bucker for a couple of days then let it air dry for a few more days to
declorine it.

_l.nave@comcast. <mailto:_l.nave%40comcast.l.n> l.n_ (mailto:l.nave@comcast.
<mailto:l.nave%40comcast.net> net) wrote: Over time my vinyl
tubing I use to transfer water or clean my aquariums get a black mold
inside...any suggestions on cleaning and then how to eliminate the toxicity
of the
cleaner..... wrote: Over time my vinyl tubing I use to transfer water or
clean
my aquariums get a
--
Larry
Carmichael-SacramenCa
Bandit, Lefty, Molly, Indy and fish....

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18375 From: Aaron Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: FREE 100 gallon SW tank complete with fish (Burlingame, CA)
at an un-named school (to prevent random people from showing up) in
Burlingame, CA

> Reply to: sale-199194284 (at) craigslist (dot) org

Reply to: sale-199194284 craigslist org

don't know why email address did not show up in the group

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Sternitzke" <lne660@...>
wrote:
>
> Where is the tank located???
> Paul S
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Aaron
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: 8/28/2006 3:57:53 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] FREE 100 gallon SW tank complete with fish
(Burlingame, CA)
>
>
> Yes, it's still available. Do you know how to take care of salt
> water fish? If you can get some help and be at my classroom by
9:30
> am tomorrow, Monday, it's all yours. It is surely worth more than
> $2,000.00 tank and stand alone. So good luck and I hope you can
own
> it tomorrow morning!
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Reply to: sale-199194284@...
> Date: 2006-08-26, 10:43AM PDT
>
> We need to get rid of our large salt water tank in our classroom
> before school begins on Tuesday! Teacher left without taking the
> tank with him so we have no choice but to give it away. It's
> approximately 100 gallon glass tank with stand, has live corral
and
> beautiful fish, pumps, skimmer and food. Come take it all - you
haul
> off. Serious hobbiest only please because we don't want this tank
to
> go to waste.
>
> Reply to: sale-199194284@...
>
> =================================================================
> this is a re-post from craigslist, I could not get enough people
> together to move this
>
> Anybody who does attempt this must have (just guessing);
> a) at least 4 people to move the tank and stand which could weigh
as
> much as 200 - 300 pounds each depending on the type of wood and
> thickness of the glass.
> b) several (5 - 7 depending on how much coral, live rock and fish)
> very well insulated 15 gallon or larger containers with tight
> fitting lids - preferably large Ice Chests - for the coral, live
> rock and fish (each packed separately)
> c) as many as 16 sterilized 5gallon water bottles with lids for
the
> rest of the water
> d) lots of large very clean buckets for the sand and crushed coral
> e) enough NEW plastic bags and bands (like the fish stores use)
for
> each fish and coral to be bagged separately in water, then placed
> into the Ice Chests with water, that way they will not "slosh"
> around so violently
> f) Large fish nets to catch the fish and hoses to siphon out the
> water
> g) enough submersible heaters for each Ice Chest to keep the right
> temp.
> h) power inverters to convert the vehicles cigarette
lighter 'juice'
> into household current
> i) a truck, preferably covered, like a moving van to protect the
> tank from debris
> j) moving blankets, rope, a furniture dolly, tape, and other
common
> moving supplies
> k) most importantly A Very Well Thought-Out Plan-of-Action, Common
> Sense, and Experience, as well as an appropriate place to move
this
> to
>
> I only have about 80% of that list at this late hour. I must stock
> up on the rest for by chance such a golden opportunity comes my
way
> in the future.

lots of towels too
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18376 From: Darlene Charlson Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
I am not sure as to the color because I cant see a picture but the
difference between males and females is relatively easy. The males have a
gondopdium(sp) small pointy think under their belly near the vent females
have a small fin there. females also have a more rounded belly.Sorry I am
not as familiar of the correct terminology.

Darlene Uplinger-Charlson
God Bless You.
http://www.myspace.com/darlene5272




From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 15:24:06 -0700 (PDT)

what color is this molly? and who said it was a male? do you know how to
tell male from females?

Betty Lou <mommykline@...> wrote: The odd part though is that
it is very symetrical. Exactly the same
place on both sides.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
>
> Female livebearers do have black spots in the back of the stomach
because thats the baby sack. males dont get it at all. Maybe its a
parasite introduced by the non aquarium stuff added?






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2�/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18377 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
As I had stated, I was out of town all last week and not doing much e-mail. I had over 1500 e-mails to plow through when I returned--plus links to look at that apply to my job or piqued my interest. The research done to answer you and others, probably consumed less than 5 minutes on the questions I needed to look up to ensure I got things correct.

Not all of us can spend our time sitting at home recovering from knee surgery <g>.

Hope it was successful.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 7:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine, passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard, when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and numbers.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also few
J78,

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18378 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Donna thats a good sign for a well established tank. yes they can be bought on the market again also can do a bleach bathe just make sure you air dry them to dechlorine it.

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Donna If you keep the tube always running and wet I don't see the problem,
what can be done is to cover the tube with something opaque, it will slow
the accumulation.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 18:15
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing

I have this problem with tubing for my canister filters after only 8 months!
I run a brush through the tubing when cleaning the canister, and it gets
some of the crud out, but not all. Is the tubing very expensive? I thought
I would just replace it every year or two??

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of FortWayneFish@...
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 5:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing

I usually fill a bucket full of a bleach solution and then use the hose to
syphon it out.. this bleaches the inside of the tube making it cleaner.. It
will never look like new but will make it a lot cleaner. Then I just run
tap water through it for awhile.. I have a python so i hook it to the
outside
faucet and let errrr rip for about 5 minutes....

The next time I use use the hose I make sure to rinse the hose one more time

before using it...
So far no problems ( knock on wood mean vinyl tubing )

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net

In a message dated 8/28/2006 5:12:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@yahoo. <mailto:jrreid3rd1%40yahoo.com> com writes:

Well you could always soak it in a capful of bleach per gallon of water in a

bucker for a couple of days then let it air dry for a few more days to
declorine it.

_l.nave@comcast. <mailto:_l.nave%40comcast.l.n> l.n_ (mailto:l.nave@comcast.
<mailto:l.nave%40comcast.net> net) wrote: Over time my vinyl
tubing I use to transfer water or clean my aquariums get a black mold
inside...any suggestions on cleaning and then how to eliminate the toxicity
of the
cleaner..... wrote: Over time my vinyl tubing I use to transfer water or
clean
my aquariums get a
--
Larry
Carmichael-SacramenCa
Bandit, Lefty, Molly, Indy and fish....

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18379 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
color isnt a big tell tale for guppies anymore.

Darlene Charlson <dmcangel5272@...> wrote: I am not sure as to the color because I cant see a picture but the
difference between males and females is relatively easy. The males have a
gondopdium(sp) small pointy think under their belly near the vent females
have a small fin there. females also have a more rounded belly.Sorry I am
not as familiar of the correct terminology.

Darlene Uplinger-Charlson
God Bless You.
http://www.myspace.com/darlene5272




From: Joseph Reid
Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie here! Intro and question.
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 15:24:06 -0700 (PDT)

what color is this molly? and who said it was a male? do you know how to
tell male from females?

Betty Lou wrote: The odd part though is that
it is very symetrical. Exactly the same
place on both sides.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid wrote:
>
> Female livebearers do have black spots in the back of the stomach
because thats the baby sack. males dont get it at all. Maybe its a
parasite introduced by the non aquarium stuff added?






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links










---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18380 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Leslie,

Come on, you should be getting quite an education about your fish here. There was the short lesson on L numbers, and the lesson on why plecos and such are actually catfish, as well as some good guesses as to what you may have in your tank. Now you can call your local shop, if you wish to move the fish as indicated in another post, and tell him you have what may be a L27 and hear him go "Huh?", at which point you can say that you believe it is a member of the _Panaque_ genus, and hear him say, "What are you talking about?". At that point you can then tell him you have a (is it?) 7" pleco, and would he like to take it in as a trade? Then he may get down to talking business. What fun!

Of course, he could always answer "Really?" to the first question, and you can then get down to business, but it would not be as much fun.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 9:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?


ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18381 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Steve , I site at. Home, I was operate the 17 , the 18 I was changing water
in my tanks, with (how you call the thing in wood or aluminium to help work
when a broken leg) Monday the 21, I make 3 service call. Last Friday I
shovel around the foundation of my fish room and put tar on the wall, I
repair computer the same time I read the mail, 90% of the time I reinstall
Windows and other software, so it give me plenty of time to chat here. I
Also have 90 tanks in the house, so that's take me 4 hours a day. I'm a self
employee, so believe me the food don't come on the table if I don't work, So
I'm working on those day, I usually do what 3 man do in one day, sorry but
I'm not the sitting type. It's may be also why I give always short answer,
I do not take the time to look in my books. I build my house, like I now
building the fish room you can fallow the progress at

http://www.aqualab.ca/fish_room/fish_room.htm



Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 19:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

As I had stated, I was out of town all last week and not doing much e-mail.
I had over 1500 e-mails to plow through when I returned--plus links to look
at that apply to my job or piqued my interest. The research done to answer
you and others, probably consumed less than 5 minutes on the questions I
needed to look up to ensure I got things correct.

Not all of us can spend our time sitting at home recovering from knee
surgery <g>.

Hope it was successful.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 7:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine, passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard, when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and numbers.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also few
J78,

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason, a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18382 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Leslie I can assure you the war is not start, the exchange with Steve are
very on the subject and appropriate. Steve know what is talking about, I'm
just kidding him a little bit. If everyone thing the same they will be no
exchange.



Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 20:09
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Leslie,

Come on, you should be getting quite an education about your fish here.
There was the short lesson on L numbers, and the lesson on why plecos and
such are actually catfish, as well as some good guesses as to what you may
have in your tank. Now you can call your local shop, if you wish to move the
fish as indicated in another post, and tell him you have what may be a L27
and hear him go "Huh?", at which point you can say that you believe it is a
member of the _Panaque_ genus, and hear him say, "What are you talking
about?". At that point you can then tell him you have a (is it?) 7" pleco,
and would he like to take it in as a trade? Then he may get down to talking
business. What fun!

Of course, he could always answer "Really?" to the first question, and you
can then get down to business, but it would not be as much fun.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 9:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?


ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18383 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Yes a pleco is a catfish, but one without moustaches,



Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 20:09
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Leslie,

Come on, you should be getting quite an education about your fish here.
There was the short lesson on L numbers, and the lesson on why plecos and
such are actually catfish, as well as some good guesses as to what you may
have in your tank. Now you can call your local shop, if you wish to move the
fish as indicated in another post, and tell him you have what may be a L27
and hear him go "Huh?", at which point you can say that you believe it is a
member of the _Panaque_ genus, and hear him say, "What are you talking
about?". At that point you can then tell him you have a (is it?) 7" pleco,
and would he like to take it in as a trade? Then he may get down to talking
business. What fun!

Of course, he could always answer "Really?" to the first question, and you
can then get down to business, but it would not be as much fun.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 9:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?


ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18384 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Now that I understand. Fishing for that within the pleather of
information and debate is another story and not something I attempted.
MANY THANKS to the both of you.
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 7:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



Leslie,

Come on, you should be getting quite an education about your fish here.
There was the short lesson on L numbers, and the lesson on why plecos
and such are actually catfish, as well as some good guesses as to what
you may have in your tank. Now you can call your local shop, if you wish
to move the fish as indicated in another post, and tell him you have
what may be a L27 and hear him go "Huh?", at which point you can say
that you believe it is a member of the _Panaque_ genus, and hear him
say, "What are you talking about?". At that point you can then tell him
you have a (is it?) 7" pleco, and would he like to take it in as a
trade? Then he may get down to talking business. What fun!

Of course, he could always answer "Really?" to the first question, and
you can then get down to business, but it would not be as much fun.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 9:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18385 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Leslie and Steve, we have to fix this question, first of all Leslie what
color is the fish, ? I check in all my book, and I don't see a Panaque with
those color. Steve I look again even with camera problem the Nigrolineatus
will have a line on the tail and a sp. Will have the stripe vertical on the
body not horizontal.



Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 20:09
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Leslie,

Come on, you should be getting quite an education about your fish here.
There was the short lesson on L numbers, and the lesson on why plecos and
such are actually catfish, as well as some good guesses as to what you may
have in your tank. Now you can call your local shop, if you wish to move the
fish as indicated in another post, and tell him you have what may be a L27
and hear him go "Huh?", at which point you can say that you believe it is a
member of the _Panaque_ genus, and hear him say, "What are you talking
about?". At that point you can then tell him you have a (is it?) 7" pleco,
and would he like to take it in as a trade? Then he may get down to talking
business. What fun!

Of course, he could always answer "Really?" to the first question, and you
can then get down to business, but it would not be as much fun.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 9:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?


ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18386 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Tough question to answer. There are bottle brushes out there with fairly long handles on them, and a good scrubbing with one may take care of your problem, but you'll probably have to do it after every use for a while, until it looks pretty clean. If you use one of the bleach methods described, you'll probably need to scrub it out with the brush I've mentioned.

If the tubing is too long for the long handled brush, you'll probably need to use some strong string to pull it through.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of l.nave@...
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 11:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing

Over time my vinyl tubing I use to transfer water or clean my aquariums get a black mold inside...any suggestions on cleaning and then how to eliminate the toxicity of the cleaner.....I know the products for cleaning mold in the show would work.....but would be toxic...
--
Larry
Carmichael-Sacramento
Bandit, Lefty, Molly, Indy and fish....

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18387 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
Donna,

You should be able to find the tubing quite easily, though I have not
seen it at a petSmart store. You'll need to go to a real fish store to
find it. If it is not easily available, you should be able to order it
online.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing

I have this problem with tubing for my canister filters after only 8
months!
I run a brush through the tubing when cleaning the canister, and it gets
some of the crud out, but not all. Is the tubing very expensive? I
thought
I would just replace it every year or two??



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of FortWayneFish@...
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 5:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing





I usually fill a bucket full of a bleach solution and then use the hose
to
syphon it out.. this bleaches the inside of the tube making it cleaner..
It
will never look like new but will make it a lot cleaner. Then I just run

tap water through it for awhile.. I have a python so i hook it to the
outside
faucet and let errrr rip for about 5 minutes....

The next time I use use the hose I make sure to rinse the hose one more
time

before using it...
So far no problems ( knock on wood mean vinyl tubing )



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net

In a message dated 8/28/2006 5:12:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@yahoo. <mailto:jrreid3rd1%40yahoo.com> com writes:

Well you could always soak it in a capful of bleach per gallon of water
in a

bucker for a couple of days then let it air dry for a few more days to
declorine it.

_l.nave@comcast. <mailto:_l.nave%40comcast.l.n> l.n_
(mailto:l.nave@comcast.
<mailto:l.nave%40comcast.net> net) wrote: Over time my vinyl
tubing I use to transfer water or clean my aquariums get a black mold
inside...any suggestions on cleaning and then how to eliminate the
toxicity
of the
cleaner..... wrote: Over time my vinyl tubing I use to transfer water or
clean
my aquariums get a
--
Larry
Carmichael-SacramenCa
Bandit, Lefty, Molly, Indy and fish....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18388 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
The hardware stores have tubing, but they are clear, so it will make more
algae inside and you have also to make sure it's food quality. For avoid
the molding release agents



Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 22:40
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing

Donna,

You should be able to find the tubing quite easily, though I have not
seen it at a petSmart store. You'll need to go to a real fish store to
find it. If it is not easily available, you should be able to order it
online.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing

I have this problem with tubing for my canister filters after only 8
months!
I run a brush through the tubing when cleaning the canister, and it gets
some of the crud out, but not all. Is the tubing very expensive? I
thought
I would just replace it every year or two??



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of FortWayneFish@...
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 5:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing





I usually fill a bucket full of a bleach solution and then use the hose
to
syphon it out.. this bleaches the inside of the tube making it cleaner..
It
will never look like new but will make it a lot cleaner. Then I just run

tap water through it for awhile.. I have a python so i hook it to the
outside
faucet and let errrr rip for about 5 minutes....

The next time I use use the hose I make sure to rinse the hose one more
time

before using it...
So far no problems ( knock on wood mean vinyl tubing )



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net

In a message dated 8/28/2006 5:12:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@yahoo. <mailto:jrreid3rd1%40yahoo.com> com writes:

Well you could always soak it in a capful of bleach per gallon of water
in a

bucker for a couple of days then let it air dry for a few more days to
declorine it.

_l.nave@comcast. <mailto:_l.nave%40comcast.l.n> l.n_
(mailto:l.nave@comcast.
<mailto:l.nave%40comcast.net> net) wrote: Over time my vinyl
tubing I use to transfer water or clean my aquariums get a black mold
inside...any suggestions on cleaning and then how to eliminate the
toxicity
of the
cleaner..... wrote: Over time my vinyl tubing I use to transfer water or
clean
my aquariums get a
--
Larry
Carmichael-SacramenCa
Bandit, Lefty, Molly, Indy and fish....


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18389 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Re: Cleaning Vinyl tubing
You can get it at any hardware store, Home depot, Lowes, westlake, ect..........
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 9:39 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing


Donna,

You should be able to find the tubing quite easily, though I have not
seen it at a petSmart store. You'll need to go to a real fish store to
find it. If it is not easily available, you should be able to order it
online.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing

I have this problem with tubing for my canister filters after only 8
months!
I run a brush through the tubing when cleaning the canister, and it gets
some of the crud out, but not all. Is the tubing very expensive? I
thought
I would just replace it every year or two??

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of FortWayneFish@...
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 5:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cleaning Vinyl tubing

I usually fill a bucket full of a bleach solution and then use the hose
to
syphon it out.. this bleaches the inside of the tube making it cleaner..
It
will never look like new but will make it a lot cleaner. Then I just run

tap water through it for awhile.. I have a python so i hook it to the
outside
faucet and let errrr rip for about 5 minutes....

The next time I use use the hose I make sure to rinse the hose one more
time

before using it...
So far no problems ( knock on wood mean vinyl tubing )

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net

In a message dated 8/28/2006 5:12:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@yahoo. <mailto:jrreid3rd1%40yahoo.com> com writes:

Well you could always soak it in a capful of bleach per gallon of water
in a

bucker for a couple of days then let it air dry for a few more days to
declorine it.

_l.nave@comcast. <mailto:_l.nave%40comcast.l.n> l.n_
(mailto:l.nave@comcast.
<mailto:l.nave%40comcast.net> net) wrote: Over time my vinyl
tubing I use to transfer water or clean my aquariums get a black mold
inside...any suggestions on cleaning and then how to eliminate the
toxicity
of the
cleaner..... wrote: Over time my vinyl tubing I use to transfer water or
clean
my aquariums get a
--
Larry
Carmichael-SacramenCa
Bandit, Lefty, Molly, Indy and fish....




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18390 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Bully Goldfish
BULLY FISH DELIMMA: I have a 5 gallon hex tank and started with two gold
fish ... I added a third when I thought one of the others was dying, but it
revived and the other (a black molly) began to lose weight as the new gold fish
got fatter. Now there are two fish and the 2nd gold fish is losing weight and
the fat gold fish is even fatter. Is there anything I can do? -- Perhaps
separate the fish or let nature take its course and lose the other gold fish?
Thanks for your suggestions!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18391 From: banjo0421 Date: 8/28/2006
Subject: Native Fish, Fish tanks
I have started a fish tank with fish native to Ozarkian streams. It is
very interesting. I've began having an algae problem on my rocks and
am thingking about introducing a native herbivorous fish to maintain
the algae. Not sure if it will work or not.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18392 From: Hope Livingston Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Red Tree Sponge..
Has anyone ever took a frag from a red tree sponge??
Where is the best place on it to do this??
You read one site and they say they don't recommend
doing it..Another site says you can..But their not
specific on what part to frag from..

Hope,

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18393 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: Bully Goldfish
Well a tank like that can only hold one goldfish but only for awhile eventually you have to get bigger for goldfish can get up to a foot big. How often do you clean it and how do you clean the tank. It could be bacterial which is why it has pinched stomach.

NancyTroyer@... wrote: BULLY FISH DELIMMA: I have a 5 gallon hex tank and started with two gold
fish ... I added a third when I thought one of the others was dying, but it
revived and the other (a black molly) began to lose weight as the new gold fish
got fatter. Now there are two fish and the 2nd gold fish is losing weight and
the fat gold fish is even fatter. Is there anything I can do? -- Perhaps
separate the fish or let nature take its course and lose the other gold fish?
Thanks for your suggestions!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18394 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Aquariophily
Hello, the most basic need for a fish is good water, the difference between
a healthy aquarium and a dead tank is in the way the aquarist control the
quality of the water a good place to start is to be member of this group,
but we have also start a group, aquariology, to talk exclusively about how
to keep the aquarium healthy, for those who want to learn or exchange on
the subject we welcome you to visit us, Chemistry , biology of the water,
filtration, are the subjects of this group, of course time to time a fish
can get sick, so we will also have post on the subject. The main difference
with our group is, no moderators, we will use animators; the main objective
of the animators will be not to limits the members, but to encourage them to
participate.

I welcome you to visit us


Gérard Gagnon
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18395 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife] New
Leslie I have hard time to fallow you, You ask a question, we try to answer
, we ask you more specification ( color) you don't collaborate, and now you
want we stop to talk about the ID of this fish ?


Gérard Gagnon

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 09:23
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?


ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18396 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife]
I guess I am just not on the same "level" as you guys. I was told it
was a catfish, I thought it might be a plecostomus. You guys told me it
was a plecostomus and likely a royal pleco, that suits me great!
Frankly, I got quite LOST among the conversation which was between the
two of you. So I stepped out thinking I had my answer.
I didn't see a question for me regarding color, but the picture is
pretty true to it's color. In fact it's perfect really. (Sorry if I
missed that post.)

Hope that helps! =)

Leslie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 2:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife]
New tank, WHAT fish are these?)



Leslie I have hard time to fallow you, You ask a question, we try to
answer
, we ask you more specification ( color) you don't collaborate, and now
you
want we stop to talk about the ID of this fish ?

Gérard Gagnon

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 09:23
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18397 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: Aquariophily
But we can get all that here too.

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote: Hello, the most basic need for a fish is good water, the difference between
a healthy aquarium and a dead tank is in the way the aquarist control the
quality of the water a good place to start is to be member of this group,
but we have also start a group, aquariology, to talk exclusively about how
to keep the aquarium healthy, for those who want to learn or exchange on
the subject we welcome you to visit us, Chemistry , biology of the water,
filtration, are the subjects of this group, of course time to time a fish
can get sick, so we will also have post on the subject. The main difference
with our group is, no moderators, we will use animators; the main objective
of the animators will be not to limits the members, but to encourage them to
participate.

I welcome you to visit us

Gérard Gagnon
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology






---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18398 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife]
It is a Pleco. Plecos are sometime refered to as Sucker mouth Catfish.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: I guess I am just not on the same "level" as you guys. I was told it
was a catfish, I thought it might be a plecostomus. You guys told me it
was a plecostomus and likely a royal pleco, that suits me great!
Frankly, I got quite LOST among the conversation which was between the
two of you. So I stepped out thinking I had my answer.
I didn't see a question for me regarding color, but the picture is
pretty true to it's color. In fact it's perfect really. (Sorry if I
missed that post.)

Hope that helps! =)

Leslie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 2:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife]
New tank, WHAT fish are these?)

Leslie I have hard time to fallow you, You ask a question, we try to
answer
, we ask you more specification ( color) you don't collaborate, and now
you
want we stop to talk about the ID of this fish ?

Gérard Gagnon

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 09:23
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18399 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife]
No it's a fish, Leslie want something simple :)



Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology
Aquariology, where to learn the fundamental in fish keeping
-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 29 août, 2006 17:00
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife]
New tank, WHAT fish are these?)

It is a Pleco. Plecos are sometime refered to as Sucker mouth Catfish.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: I guess I am just
not on the same "level" as you guys. I was told it
was a catfish, I thought it might be a plecostomus. You guys told me it
was a plecostomus and likely a royal pleco, that suits me great!
Frankly, I got quite LOST among the conversation which was between the
two of you. So I stepped out thinking I had my answer.
I didn't see a question for me regarding color, but the picture is
pretty true to it's color. In fact it's perfect really. (Sorry if I
missed that post.)

Hope that helps! =)

Leslie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 2:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: I have a question but pls do not anwser (was RE: [AquaticLife]
New tank, WHAT fish are these?)

Leslie I have hard time to fallow you, You ask a question, we try to
answer
, we ask you more specification ( color) you don't collaborate, and now
you
want we stop to talk about the ID of this fish ?

Gérard Gagnon

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Leslie & Dane Moore
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 09:23
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18400 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
Steve Leslie send me a link to a fish who look like her fish, the color look
more like a Panaque nigrolineatus, but the stripe on the Caudal is missing



http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/b_panaque.php




Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology
Aquariology, where to learn the fundamental in fish keeping

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 20:09
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Leslie,

Come on, you should be getting quite an education about your fish here.
There was the short lesson on L numbers, and the lesson on why plecos and
such are actually catfish, as well as some good guesses as to what you may
have in your tank. Now you can call your local shop, if you wish to move the
fish as indicated in another post, and tell him you have what may be a L27
and hear him go "Huh?", at which point you can say that you believe it is a
member of the _Panaque_ genus, and hear him say, "What are you talking
about?". At that point you can then tell him you have a (is it?) 7" pleco,
and would he like to take it in as a trade? Then he may get down to talking
business. What fun!

Of course, he could always answer "Really?" to the first question, and you
can then get down to business, but it would not be as much fun.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 9:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?


ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18401 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: New tank, WHAT fish are these?
I found the english link, Leslie send me the one in spanish

http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_panaque.php

Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology
Aquariology, where to learn the fundamental in fish keeping



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 29 août, 2006 18:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve Leslie send me a link to a fish who look like her fish, the color look
more like a Panaque nigrolineatus, but the stripe on the Caudal is missing



http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/b_panaque.php




Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology
Aquariology, where to learn the fundamental in fish keeping

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 20:09
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Leslie,

Come on, you should be getting quite an education about your fish here.
There was the short lesson on L numbers, and the lesson on why plecos and
such are actually catfish, as well as some good guesses as to what you may
have in your tank. Now you can call your local shop, if you wish to move the
fish as indicated in another post, and tell him you have what may be a L27
and hear him go "Huh?", at which point you can say that you believe it is a
member of the _Panaque_ genus, and hear him say, "What are you talking
about?". At that point you can then tell him you have a (is it?) 7" pleco,
and would he like to take it in as a trade? Then he may get down to talking
business. What fun!

Of course, he could always answer "Really?" to the first question, and you
can then get down to business, but it would not be as much fun.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 9:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?


ACK! lol

OK You two...
I keep reading these posts thinking it MIGHT have something to do with
my actual posting, but alas....they do not.

Can you ple---ase change the title to the post to something relevant so
I don't keep looking to make sure it doesn't apply to my tank or fish?

Thank you--- =)

~Leslie The "Creator" of "New tank, WHAT fish are these?" ;) Haha

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 6:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?



Sorry for the typo, you like not you lie.....

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gérard Gagnon
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 07:09
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steeve just relax a little bit I have just some fun we Jo, as much as a
fish group can be informative a little bit fun between member is also
good.
I notice since 1 week you answer just my email not the other mine,
passing
all the evening in book to contradict me. Relax it's not a competition
here. You lie to use number for catalogue some fish, me not I like to
use
catfish for the one who have moustache, you not, Linnaeus have not start
the
taxonomy, but the taxonomy we use now it's him who set the standard,
when
the doctor ask your weight did you answer in milligrams.

Life is fun

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 28 août, 2006 00:20
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

While there is an L23 that is in the hobby, and considered to be a
member of
the _Liposarcus_ genus, there are no other codes using letters and
numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Joseph I just return from the LFS, I buy a T234, a L23 a f345 and also
few
J78,

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Joseph Reid
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 14:04
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

never mind confussion how the hell do you expect someone to know what it
is
without a chart in front of you?

Gérard Gagnon <dataxpert@bellnet. <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> ca>
wrote: Steeve , be reassure I
will not re invented the wheel, it's just a late
evening talk, because you said that all the pleco are catfish and not
all
catfish are pleco, Is just to show than they deviate from where they
name a
catfish a catfish. I know the L system is usefull when a fish is not
identify, but it's not friendly to use them for identify a fish, I'm
sure
Leslie and many was confuse with those L number, but I will point than
often
in a group they use funny common name for a fish, that it's hard to know
what is it In the case of the fish of Leslie, due to some camera effect
I
think the fish is more silver than he look on the pics, she will
probably
tell us, But we have to give it a name, it's why I did , how many fish
have
change name since they was first publish in a book, If you look in the
Mergus and Axerold book, you see a big difference in taxonomy. I also
study
Greek at school , in French mainly all our word are part Latin part
Greek,
in English a little bit also

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 27 août, 2006 01:39
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Be that as it may, the _Loricariids_ are classified as catfish. Your not
wanting them to be, in no way changes that classification.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gérard Gagnon
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 12:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

Steve I will never considered a pleco as a catfish, for a simple reason,
a
cat have moustache, pleco don't I know they call the Loricariidae
suckermouth catfish, but for me they need a moustache for be call cat
fish.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 26 août, 2006 22:49
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

The catfish appears to be a _Panaque_ sp. Maybe an L27, though there is
some confusion on what is assigned that number. It will grow in excess
of 15". (Note to Joe: All plecos are catfish while not all catfish are
plecos.)

The silver fish do appear to be silver dollars, probably _Metynnis_ spp.
All of the _Metynnis_ will grow to at least 6".

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New tank, WHAT fish are these?

I just setup the new 130 and I have these large silver mystery fish
that are said to be silver dollars. They are about 5-6" inch. I've
only seen silver dollars in the stores at maybe an inch so it's highly
possible I just don't recognize them as that. But they do NOT look
much like those I have seen, unless they just MORPH into something
else at adulthood?

Also this "catfish" doesn't look like any catfish I've ever seen. Can
someone tell me what it is?

The pictures are under "130 Freshwater" and it's the last photo in the
bunch.

Thanks!
Leslie



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18402 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
I noticed I have some lava rock that I bought to put in my bbq this
summer , but I never opened the bag . Would this be ok to put in
aquarium for a decoration...think it would look pretty cool
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18403 From: harry perry Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
I wouldn't. Who knows what chemicals are in the rock.

Harry

chicagobears2010 <chicagobears2010@...> wrote: I noticed I have some lava rock that I bought to put in my bbq this
summer , but I never opened the bag . Would this be ok to put in
aquarium for a decoration...think it would look pretty cool






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18404 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
I agree with Harry, it's melted everything, god knows whats in it.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: harry perry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] I Know this is a stupid question butt.......


I wouldn't. Who knows what chemicals are in the rock.

Harry

chicagobears2010 <chicagobears2010@...> wrote: I noticed I have some lava rock that I bought to put in my bbq this
summer , but I never opened the bag . Would this be ok to put in
aquarium for a decoration...think it would look pretty cool





Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18405 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 8/29/2006
Subject: Re: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
yea bad bad idea as I have heard... even if you like soak it for a long long
time there are a lot of hiding places in rocks for things that might be
harmful to your fishes.. Shannon




I wouldn't. Who knows what chemicals are in the rock.

Harry

chicagobears2010 <_chicagobears2010@chicagobe_
(mailto:chicagobears2010@...) > wrote: I noticed I have some lava rock that I bought to put in my bbq
this
summer , but I never opened the bag . Would this be ok to put in
aquarium for a decoration..aquarium for a decoration..<WBR>.thi









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18406 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Bully Goldfish
A five gallon tank is not sufficient for any but the smallest of
goldfish. And that would just be for one goldfish, not 3. As the
goldfish grows, you would need to eventually move them to a tank with
about 30 gallons of water for each fish.

You do not mention what size your fish are (or the variety), but, most
likely, what you are seeing is effects of overcrowding the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@...
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 11:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bully Goldfish

BULLY FISH DELIMMA: I have a 5 gallon hex tank and started with two gold

fish ... I added a third when I thought one of the others was dying, but
it
revived and the other (a black molly) began to lose weight as the new
gold fish
got fatter. Now there are two fish and the 2nd gold fish is losing
weight and
the fat gold fish is even fatter. Is there anything I can do? --
Perhaps
separate the fish or let nature take its course and lose the other gold
fish?
Thanks for your suggestions!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18407 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
I lost two cory cats about a month ago. One had the red spot on his
abdomen and was very young, the other was pretty old and showed no signs
of anything being wrong prior to dying.

This morning another was dead. A juvi panda cory. He didn't show any
marks on the outside but you could see that his insides were very red &
dark. (He was very slow moving yesterday and appeared thin in the
body.) My other remaining 3 show the red blotches near their side fins
from time to time. I drop bacterial food to the bottom and after a few
days the redness goes away. The problem is it keeps coming back.

Normally I would treat w/ furan-2 but I have an elephant nose in this
tank and I know they are sensitive to treatments. I thought of using
the penicillin food/gel drops for a few days as their only food. Would
that work? Perhaps mixing it w/ some sinker food?

Any suggestions are quite welcome!

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18408 From: Judy R Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
HI There,

Ok, I know this might make some hobbyists cringe, BUT I have some BBQ lava rock in a 40 gallon tank (the bag was also never opened and bought specifically to put in a tank). Although, I only have African Cichlids in that particular tank. I belong to a local fish society and someone there had used it in their African Cichlid tank. I just rinsed it many times and then put it into the tank. I should mention that I put the lava rock in the tank prior to the fish going into the tank. I then allowed the tank to cycle. I did this approximately 6 months ago and still no casualties! ..... Judy


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18409 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
does it look like there is a long string coming from them if so its a parasite.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: I lost two cory cats about a month ago. One had the red spot on his
abdomen and was very young, the other was pretty old and showed no signs
of anything being wrong prior to dying.

This morning another was dead. A juvi panda cory. He didn't show any
marks on the outside but you could see that his insides were very red &
dark. (He was very slow moving yesterday and appeared thin in the
body.) My other remaining 3 show the red blotches near their side fins
from time to time. I drop bacterial food to the bottom and after a few
days the redness goes away. The problem is it keeps coming back.

Normally I would treat w/ furan-2 but I have an elephant nose in this
tank and I know they are sensitive to treatments. I thought of using
the penicillin food/gel drops for a few days as their only food. Would
that work? Perhaps mixing it w/ some sinker food?

Any suggestions are quite welcome!

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18410 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
No long strings, short strings, no strings. I'm fairly convinced it's
bacterial. I just don't know how I should treat. If a water treatment
would be OK then I prefer to do that to ensure all the fish get the
treatment. But I don't know how the elephant nose would take it.
Thanks,
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?



does it look like there is a long string coming from them if so its a
parasite.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net>
net> wrote: I lost two cory cats about a month ago. One had the red spot
on his
abdomen and was very young, the other was pretty old and showed no signs
of anything being wrong prior to dying.

This morning another was dead. A juvi panda cory. He didn't show any
marks on the outside but you could see that his insides were very red &
dark. (He was very slow moving yesterday and appeared thin in the
body.) My other remaining 3 show the red blotches near their side fins
from time to time. I drop bacterial food to the bottom and after a few
days the redness goes away. The problem is it keeps coming back.

Normally I would treat w/ furan-2 but I have an elephant nose in this
tank and I know they are sensitive to treatments. I thought of using
the penicillin food/gel drops for a few days as their only food. Would
that work? Perhaps mixing it w/ some sinker food?

Any suggestions are quite welcome!

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18411 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
Furan 2 would be ok with the elephant nose. better safe than sorry just take out your carbon.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: No long strings, short strings, no strings. I'm fairly convinced it's
bacterial. I just don't know how I should treat. If a water treatment
would be OK then I prefer to do that to ensure all the fish get the
treatment. But I don't know how the elephant nose would take it.
Thanks,
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?

does it look like there is a long string coming from them if so its a
parasite.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net>
net> wrote: I lost two cory cats about a month ago. One had the red spot
on his
abdomen and was very young, the other was pretty old and showed no signs
of anything being wrong prior to dying.

This morning another was dead. A juvi panda cory. He didn't show any
marks on the outside but you could see that his insides were very red &
dark. (He was very slow moving yesterday and appeared thin in the
body.) My other remaining 3 show the red blotches near their side fins
from time to time. I drop bacterial food to the bottom and after a few
days the redness goes away. The problem is it keeps coming back.

Normally I would treat w/ furan-2 but I have an elephant nose in this
tank and I know they are sensitive to treatments. I thought of using
the penicillin food/gel drops for a few days as their only food. Would
that work? Perhaps mixing it w/ some sinker food?

Any suggestions are quite welcome!

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18412 From: cgvs Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Golden Snails
Can anyone tell me if golden snails have the same form/shape as the adults
when they hatch out or how soon after? I have 2 but the snails hatching out
do not look the same and are suspected to be hitch hikers. Thank you in
advance. Love this group.

Joyce
Newbie - 4 months into hobby
Texas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18413 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
You do not mention anything about your water quality. Young corys are
relatively sensitive to high nitrites. If you haven't checked the water,
check it before treating, since merely treating the water with a proper
water conditioner may be all you need to pull them through. Then you
need to determine the problem that is causing the higher levels of
nitrogenous waste.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?

I lost two cory cats about a month ago. One had the red spot on his
abdomen and was very young, the other was pretty old and showed no signs
of anything being wrong prior to dying.

This morning another was dead. A juvi panda cory. He didn't show any
marks on the outside but you could see that his insides were very red &
dark. (He was very slow moving yesterday and appeared thin in the
body.) My other remaining 3 show the red blotches near their side fins
from time to time. I drop bacterial food to the bottom and after a few
days the redness goes away. The problem is it keeps coming back.

Normally I would treat w/ furan-2 but I have an elephant nose in this
tank and I know they are sensitive to treatments. I thought of using
the penicillin food/gel drops for a few days as their only food. Would
that work? Perhaps mixing it w/ some sinker food?

Any suggestions are quite welcome!

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18414 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Golden Snails
I have a 90 gallon tank full of them. Over 100. Ones that have hatched and
full adults. They do look almost cylindrical when just born, then they fill
out. They are always hitching. These family of snails are a very good choice,
though they do much on plants a bit but not much, they do an outstanding job
cleaning my tank.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18415 From: Jerry Young Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?And Other Problems
I've been having some problems with my cory cats also. Over the past several months I noticed that my bronze cories are losing thier dorsal fins. I have several cories in my tank, bronze, albinos, peppered and pandas. Only the bronze have this problem. I also lost many peppered cories that have their heads almost eaten off by fungus(or is it hole in the head disease?- it usually begins with a white cotton-like growth n their head which eventualy becomes a big hole)). Is it the water quality? My tank is heavily stocked so I guess I have a problem with excess nitrites. If so is this the effect? And why is it only the bronze(dorsal fin rot) and peppered (Fungus/hole in the head?) are affected?

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: You do not mention anything about your water quality. Young corys are
relatively sensitive to high nitrites. If you haven't checked the water,
check it before treating, since merely treating the water with a proper
water conditioner may be all you need to pull them through. Then you
need to determine the problem that is causing the higher levels of
nitrogenous waste.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?

I lost two cory cats about a month ago. One had the red spot on his
abdomen and was very young, the other was pretty old and showed no signs
of anything being wrong prior to dying.

This morning another was dead. A juvi panda cory. He didn't show any
marks on the outside but you could see that his insides were very red &
dark. (He was very slow moving yesterday and appeared thin in the
body.) My other remaining 3 show the red blotches near their side fins
from time to time. I drop bacterial food to the bottom and after a few
days the redness goes away. The problem is it keeps coming back.

Normally I would treat w/ furan-2 but I have an elephant nose in this
tank and I know they are sensitive to treatments. I thought of using
the penicillin food/gel drops for a few days as their only food. Would
that work? Perhaps mixing it w/ some sinker food?

Any suggestions are quite welcome!

Thanks,
Leslie






---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18416 From: cgvs Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Golden Snails
Thank you for your reply. Do you know of any place where I could see a picture of a newly hatched golden snail?
The ones in my tank look like ramshorn snails and a type of pond snail (brown with spots).
----- Original Message -----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Golden Snails


I have a 90 gallon tank full of them. Over 100. Ones that have hatched and
full adults. They do look almost cylindrical when just born, then they fill
out. They are always hitching. These family of snails are a very good choice,
though they do much on plants a bit but not much, they do an outstanding job
cleaning my tank.
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18417 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/30/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?And Other Problems
Maybe, maybe not. A heavily stocked tank should be tested regularly so
that things do not get out of hand. If you have not been testing, now is the best time to start. If any of the parameters are out of whack, take moves to fix them. At a minimum you should be testing for pH, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. When you get these figures, come back with them so we can discuss them.

You should also have a tank where you can move fish for treatment so you are not treating the whole tank. Since you are only seeing certain
symptom in a certain genus of fish, there is no need to treat the entire tank. People worry about the biological filtration,. But if you keep a sponge filter in your main tank, you have an automatic biological filter when it is moved to the quarantine tank where fish are being treated. When you have a separate tank for treatment, you do not need to worry about the effects of the treatment on other fish in that tank, or have to modify the treatment to accommodate those fish

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18418 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
I always check the water quality before posting anything. If I ever
discover anything off, it would be posted. Otherwise you can assume
that it all checks out. In this case it all checks out great.
pH 7, ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 20...as usual. =)

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 4:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?



You do not mention anything about your water quality. Young corys are
relatively sensitive to high nitrites. If you haven't checked the water,
check it before treating, since merely treating the water with a proper
water conditioner may be all you need to pull them through. Then you
need to determine the problem that is causing the higher levels of
nitrogenous waste.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?

I lost two cory cats about a month ago. One had the red spot on his
abdomen and was very young, the other was pretty old and showed no signs
of anything being wrong prior to dying.

This morning another was dead. A juvi panda cory. He didn't show any
marks on the outside but you could see that his insides were very red &
dark. (He was very slow moving yesterday and appeared thin in the
body.) My other remaining 3 show the red blotches near their side fins
from time to time. I drop bacterial food to the bottom and after a few
days the redness goes away. The problem is it keeps coming back.

Normally I would treat w/ furan-2 but I have an elephant nose in this
tank and I know they are sensitive to treatments. I thought of using
the penicillin food/gel drops for a few days as their only food. Would
that work? Perhaps mixing it w/ some sinker food?

Any suggestions are quite welcome!

Thanks,
Leslie







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18419 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
So I'm looking to see what exactly is in this bottle that claims to be
anti-bacteria medicated fish food and I can not find one thing that
tells me WHAT is in here. Internet searches are coming up blank as far
as ingredients.
Does anyone know? It's the Jungle brand.

I was thinking to treat the tank w/ this food for 5-10 days as directed
and then coat the frozen food I feed the elephant nose in penicillin
gel. (He has to have the frozen food, I can't limit him to just the
medicated food.)

But now I don't know what's in this food, I'm a little hesitant to use
it. WHO doesn't put the ingredients on something that's medicated?!

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18420 From: cgvs Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: gudgeons
Does anyone know anything about theses fish ? What conditions do they need? Appropriate tank mates? Who not to put them with? and diet? Web pages with info?
Thanks



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18421 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
Leslie, Jungle Lab's anti-bacterial medicated fish food contains
Sodium Sulfathiozole and Nitrofuranace. Their anti-parasitic
medicated fish food contains Metronidazole, Praziquantel and
Levamisole. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> So I'm looking to see what exactly is in this bottle that claims to
be
> anti-bacteria medicated fish food and I can not find one thing that
> tells me WHAT is in here. Internet searches are coming up blank as
far
> as ingredients.
> Does anyone know? It's the Jungle brand.
>
> I was thinking to treat the tank w/ this food for 5-10 days as
directed
> and then coat the frozen food I feed the elephant nose in penicillin
> gel. (He has to have the frozen food, I can't limit him to just the
> medicated food.)
>
> But now I don't know what's in this food, I'm a little hesitant to
use
> it. WHO doesn't put the ingredients on something that's medicated?!
>
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18422 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: tank testing
I have a question about testing my tank. I only test for ph,
nitrites, ammonia and nitrates. Should I be testing for anything else
and if so do you just by a kit like I did to test these levels? Also
I am reading that people have their nitrates at around 20 is this a
good level? if it is then mine is too low as it is usually around
5.If it needs to be higher how do I increase it
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18423 From: Kevin Batey Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
I can't think of any reason you would want your nitrates higher, unless you have a planted tank and even then you could probably just use a product such as Flourish for your plants.

Unless someone else more experienced than I am corrects this, nitrates are still not desirable for the fish - they are just less toxic than other nitrogenous wastes, i.e. nitrItes and ammonia.

You are probably better off with your lower numbers.

mytiel123 <kerrypeskett@...> wrote:
I have a question about testing my tank. I only test for ph,
nitrites, ammonia and nitrates. Should I be testing for anything else
and if so do you just by a kit like I did to test these levels? Also
I am reading that people have their nitrates at around 20 is this a
good level? if it is then mine is too low as it is usually around
5.If it needs to be higher how do I increase it
Kerry






---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18424 From: Shiru Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
No lower the nitrates the better however the nitrites and ammonia should always be zero.... once nitrate is best if kept below 20 and if it goes above it can be brought down with water changes...... so if ur nitrate are at 5.. that is good...

mytiel123 <kerrypeskett@...> wrote: I have a question about testing my tank. I only test for ph,
nitrites, ammonia and nitrates. Should I be testing for anything else
and if so do you just by a kit like I did to test these levels? Also
I am reading that people have their nitrates at around 20 is this a
good level? if it is then mine is too low as it is usually around
5.If it needs to be higher how do I increase it
Kerry






--
"Programming is like Sex: One mistake and you have to support it for the rest of your life"



---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18425 From: rick linboom Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: I Know this is a stupid question butt.......
So now I'm confused 3 against and 1 for using




GO CUBS!
































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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18426 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shiru <sriram21@...> wrote:
>
> No lower the nitrates the better however the nitrites and ammonia
should always be zero.... once nitrate is best if kept below 20 and if
it goes above it can be brought down with water changes...... so if ur
nitrate are at 5.. that is good...
>
>
>
>
>both my ammonia and my nitrites are at zero all the time.
thanks for the info.
Kerry
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18427 From: mytiel123 Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: tank testing
Re: [AquaticLife] tank testing


I can't think of any reason you would want your nitrates higher,
unless you have
a planted tank and even then you could probably just use a product
such as
Flourish for your plants.

Unless someone else more experienced than I am corrects this,
nitrates are
still not desirable for the fish - they are just less toxic than
other
nitrogenous wastes, i.e. nitrItes and ammonia.

You are probably better off with your lower numbers.



Oh good. I am glad to be doing something right then
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18428 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
have you tried to look for the company that makes jungle products?

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: So I'm looking to see what exactly is in this bottle that claims to be
anti-bacteria medicated fish food and I can not find one thing that
tells me WHAT is in here. Internet searches are coming up blank as far
as ingredients.
Does anyone know? It's the Jungle brand.

I was thinking to treat the tank w/ this food for 5-10 days as directed
and then coat the frozen food I feed the elephant nose in penicillin
gel. (He has to have the frozen food, I can't limit him to just the
medicated food.)

But now I don't know what's in this food, I'm a little hesitant to use
it. WHO doesn't put the ingredients on something that's medicated?!

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18429 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
One can never assume anything. Unless stated, the water quality
parameters remain unknown and they can have an affect on fish. Blindly
treating fish with factors unknown can be as bad, or worse, than not
treating them at all.

As for the missing or ragged dorsal fins you mentioned in another post
somewhere, that may be caused by another fish, or fishes.

It seems that for the pandas, you might have a recurring infection of
some sort. One thing I would do is to move those fish out of that tank
into another tank prepared just for them. Once the redness has gone,
keep them there for some time, several weeks, to see if it recurs. If
not, move a few back to the main tank and see what happens. If it recurs
again in those, then you have a problem in that tank. It does not occur
that often, but it does happen. If this is the case, you may end up
tearing down that bad tank and sterilizing it, or just start anew in
another tank. (Oh, what a sneaky way to get another tank <g>.) I had a
tank like that once, and I finally gave up on it and trashed the thing
(a 20). No matter what I did, I kept losing fish to strange and
mysterious causes. Once I got rid of the tank, all was well once more.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 12:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?

I always check the water quality before posting anything. If I ever
discover anything off, it would be posted. Otherwise you can assume
that it all checks out. In this case it all checks out great.
pH 7, ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 20...as usual. =)

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 4:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?



You do not mention anything about your water quality. Young corys are
relatively sensitive to high nitrites. If you haven't checked the water,
check it before treating, since merely treating the water with a proper
water conditioner may be all you need to pull them through. Then you
need to determine the problem that is causing the higher levels of
nitrogenous waste.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?

I lost two cory cats about a month ago. One had the red spot on his
abdomen and was very young, the other was pretty old and showed no signs
of anything being wrong prior to dying.

This morning another was dead. A juvi panda cory. He didn't show any
marks on the outside but you could see that his insides were very red &
dark. (He was very slow moving yesterday and appeared thin in the
body.) My other remaining 3 show the red blotches near their side fins
from time to time. I drop bacterial food to the bottom and after a few
days the redness goes away. The problem is it keeps coming back.

Normally I would treat w/ furan-2 but I have an elephant nose in this
tank and I know they are sensitive to treatments. I thought of using
the penicillin food/gel drops for a few days as their only food. Would
that work? Perhaps mixing it w/ some sinker food?

Any suggestions are quite welcome!

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18430 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
you dont want to increase nitrates you want it no more than 20 and what your testing for is what you need to do for a community fish tank.

mytiel123 <kerrypeskett@...> wrote: I have a question about testing my tank. I only test for ph,
nitrites, ammonia and nitrates. Should I be testing for anything else
and if so do you just by a kit like I did to test these levels? Also
I am reading that people have their nitrates at around 20 is this a
good level? if it is then mine is too low as it is usually around
5.If it needs to be higher how do I increase it
Kerry






---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18431 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
Jungle is rather closed mouthed about what they use in their products.
There does not seem to be any information on their site about their
ingredients. However they do have a contact form, which you might wish
to use to ask them about it.

http://www.junglelabs.com


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 12:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery

So I'm looking to see what exactly is in this bottle that claims to be
anti-bacteria medicated fish food and I can not find one thing that
tells me WHAT is in here. Internet searches are coming up blank as far
as ingredients.
Does anyone know? It's the Jungle brand.

I was thinking to treat the tank w/ this food for 5-10 days as directed
and then coat the frozen food I feed the elephant nose in penicillin
gel. (He has to have the frozen food, I can't limit him to just the
medicated food.)

But now I don't know what's in this food, I'm a little hesitant to use
it. WHO doesn't put the ingredients on something that's medicated?!

Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18432 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
There are lots of things you can test for: Dissolved oxygen; chlorine;
phosphates; iron; and so on and on. Generally, you do not do these tests
unless there is a specific need to do so. Some of these tests are a tad
on the expensive side.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 4:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tank testing

I have a question about testing my tank. I only test for ph,
nitrites, ammonia and nitrates. Should I be testing for anything else
and if so do you just by a kit like I did to test these levels? Also
I am reading that people have their nitrates at around 20 is this a
good level? if it is then mine is too low as it is usually around
5.If it needs to be higher how do I increase it
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18433 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
Nitrates are very harmful for marine organisms. They are not so for
freshwater organisms. Sometime ago I did write a piece on this and it
should be available in the archives. Pretty much one does not have to
worry until the nitrates are going into the 100+ ppm stage, and even
then you have quite a bit of leeway, depending on the fish you are
keeping. This almost fanatical fervor for keeping nitrates below 20 ppm
is a lot of bother and work. I do suspect it is the confluence of the
marine influence and some reports and requirements issued by the EPA.

Reduction of nitrates can be accomplished by a well planted tank, and/or
regular water changes using water that is low in nitrates. Despite EPA
regulations, one will find tap water that is significantly higher than
the government wonks want it to be.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kevin Batey
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 5:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] tank testing

I can't think of any reason you would want your nitrates higher, unless
you have a planted tank and even then you could probably just use a
product such as Flourish for your plants.

Unless someone else more experienced than I am corrects this, nitrates
are still not desirable for the fish - they are just less toxic than
other nitrogenous wastes, i.e. nitrItes and ammonia.

You are probably better off with your lower numbers.

mytiel123 <kerrypeskett@...> wrote:
I have a question about testing my tank. I only test for ph,
nitrites, ammonia and nitrates. Should I be testing for anything else
and if so do you just by a kit like I did to test these levels? Also
I am reading that people have their nitrates at around 20 is this a
good level? if it is then mine is too low as it is usually around
5.If it needs to be higher how do I increase it
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18434 From: Jennifer Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Hello
Hi everyone

I have just joined this group and we are the new owners of two Black
Moors, one Sarassa Comet, one Common Goldfish and one baby
Plecostomus. I am very interested in learing how to take care of these
fish as I have already fallen in love with them. In a weeks time I
have been able to learn the different personalities between the fish
already.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18435 From: Rebecca Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
Dear Leslie,

I can't tell you what's in it... but I can tell you that I can't seem
to get any of my fish to eat it! :(

Funny, my White Cloud Mountain Minnows will eat just about anything...
but not this stuff. Whole or mashed, soaked or dry, soaked in that
garlic stuff that's supposed to entice them... nothing! LOL

<sigh>
Rebecca


> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 12:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Anti-Bacteria medicated fish food mystery
>
> So I'm looking to see what exactly is in this bottle that claims to be
> anti-bacteria medicated fish food and I can not find one thing that
> tells me WHAT is in here. Internet searches are coming up blank as far
> as ingredients.
> Does anyone know? It's the Jungle brand.
>
> I was thinking to treat the tank w/ this food for 5-10 days as directed
> and then coat the frozen food I feed the elephant nose in penicillin
> gel. (He has to have the frozen food, I can't limit him to just the
> medicated food.)
>
> But now I don't know what's in this food, I'm a little hesitant to use
> it. WHO doesn't put the ingredients on something that's medicated?!
>
> Leslie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18436 From: Joseph Reid Date: 8/31/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
well let us know what type of filtration you have and do you have a heater. also what size tank it it?

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hi everyone

I have just joined this group and we are the new owners of two Black
Moors, one Sarassa Comet, one Common Goldfish and one baby
Plecostomus. I am very interested in learing how to take care of these
fish as I have already fallen in love with them. In a weeks time I
have been able to learn the different personalities between the fish
already.






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18437 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: Re: Losing cory cats. Bacterial? Treatment?
yeah tell us all the things in your tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18438 From: yan_ederson13 Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: refreshing water
Hi to you all...
Me and my aquarium are doing just fine and yes although it was left 15
days without anyone to taking care of it while I was on holidays...

Don`t forget to love your fish.
Ciao.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18439 From: Keri Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: Help Puffer Fish (Figure eight)
Hey everyone I need a little help. I have a Figure Eight Puffer, well
before I got him his front fins had been chewed off. No we notice that
the scales around the fin are a lighter color than the rest. His eye
is also a little cloudy, but the other one is not. I just added some
Primafix in case it is a fungus infection. Please can someone tell me
what my puffer has? He was real sluggish and laying on the bottom of
the tank til I added a little more salt, now he's actually swimming
around, and today we see this. Please help.

Keri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18440 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: Re: Help Puffer Fish (Figure eight)
Have you tested your water at all? It sounds like he was in bad waters before

Keri <kiwi762@...> wrote: Hey everyone I need a little help. I have a Figure Eight Puffer, well
before I got him his front fins had been chewed off. No we notice that
the scales around the fin are a lighter color than the rest. His eye
is also a little cloudy, but the other one is not. I just added some
Primafix in case it is a fungus infection. Please can someone tell me
what my puffer has? He was real sluggish and laying on the bottom of
the tank til I added a little more salt, now he's actually swimming
around, and today we see this. Please help.

Keri






---------------------------------
Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18441 From: Aaron Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: [SVAS] Silicon Valley Aquarium Society Meeting This Saturday, Sept.
The meeting starts a 7pm and is in the usual location: The Round
Table Pizza at Moorpark and Saratoga near Highway 280 in San Jose.

September? Wow, has this year just flown by. This month our speaker
will be Eric Olson. He'll be speaking about Planted Tanks. I know a
lot of us are very interested in keeping our fish with live plants.
They are beautiful and more healthy for our fish as well.

We will also be having a plant swap before the meeting at 4:30. Bring
plants and cuttings and extra plastic bags. Everyone there will be
talking about the plants they have brought and swapping with everyone
else. If you don't have plants to bring, come anyway and bring some
home. Everyone is welcome. The last plant swap was a great deal of
fun.

The Bowl Show will be open to any kind of fish this month. Come early
for the plant swap and social time. Come early as well to check in
for the auction. The Board of Directors meets at 5:30. All members
and friends are welcome.

MEGA AUCTION NEXT MONTH!!!!

Next month in October we will have our annual Mega Auction. There
will be no speaker and we'll be auctioning all night. This event has
become the highlight of many members' year. It's been standing room
only for the last few years. Bring some stuff to auction and some
money to buy those treasures you'll find. This is our biggest fund
raiser of the year and pays for all our great speakers. It's also a
great way to sell some of your excess equipment and fish.

A few tips to make things fun and go smoothly:

* Come early if you want a seat.
* Come early to check in your auction items. We'll be there two hours
before the auction starts.
* If you arrive late your items may not be accepted into the auction
until the break or possibly not at all if we don't have time.
* If you plan to sell a large tank or fish that require special care,
please send an email to our email group describing your item. You
will generate more interest in your item and people will be able to
prepare in advance for your unusual fish.
* Fill out an auction form before you arrive at the check-in table.
Forms are available at our regular website svas.info.
* Properly and safely double-bag your fish and other livestock. We
will have bags available for sale at the September meeting for your
convenience. We will also have bags for sale in October for those who
need to rebag their fish before they are accepted for auction. Very
large fish can be brought in appropriate buckets or tanks if
necessary.
* Read the article posted on the svas.info website about how to
properly bag and label your auction fish.
* Use a Sharpie Pen to mark your bags, use sticky labels, or put
paper
labels between the two bags. Do not use heavy packing tape to affix
labels to your bags. We had a disaster when this happened one year
and almost all those bags sprang leaks.
* You must be a member in good standing to run a tab. Anyone
(including non-members) may pay cash for each transaction.
* Consider helping out that night. We can use runners and runner's
helpers, check-in assistants, membership table help, and lots of
other
little things.
* We'll have something fun for our raffle prize, but it's a surprise!
* Please pay for all your purchases before you leave that night.
* There is no Bowl Show on Mega Auction Night.
* Most of all, have a good time.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18442 From: mytiel123 Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: tank testing
There are lots of things you can test for: Dissolved oxygen; chlorine;
phosphates; iron; and so on and on. Generally, you do not do these
tests
unless there is a specific need to do so. Some of these tests are a tad
on the expensive side.


\\Steve//



when would be the times you needed to do these additional tests?
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18443 From: AquaticLife Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: San Francisco Aquarium Society (SFAS) Annual Fish Auction 8 PM Toni
It's time for the SFAS annual fish auction!

Friday, September 1 · 8:00pm

http://www.sfaquarium.org/index.html

Something with fins, something with scales,
Rare and unusual, with a long flowing tail.
You've struggled all summer, to raise the best fry,
Now here is hoping, that someone will buy.
Clean out your closets! Clean out your tanks!
Could this possibly, put money in the bank?
Heaters, filters, sand and such,
Nothing is ever way to much.
Anything about fish is always welcome,
The oddist items, can fetch a good sum.
More than a tank or two, goes out the door.
You sold your fish, now buy some more!

Know This. You don't have to be a member to bid, but only members
can enter items for sale and revel in the exchange of cold hard cash!

Give Us A Hand! Check in by 7:45pm. Fight traffic jams by filling
out auction forms & labels away from the check in area. A max of 20
items may be entered per person.

Founded in 1923, the San Francisco Aquarium Society is one of the
nation's esteemed aquarium hobbyist organizations. Incorporated in
1948 as a non-profit by the State of California, it operates for the
express purpose of promoting the hobby through education and
comraderie while spilling as little water as possible.

We meet the first Friday of each month. A speaker headlines each
gathering. Past guests include reefmaster J. Charles Delbeek,
cichlid authority Ad Konings, discus pros Dick Au and Jack Wattley
plus aquatic plantheads Luis Navarro and Erik Leung. From reef tanks
to cichlids, aquaplants and killifish, we're a unique group of
individuals. Many of us contribute to aquarium hobbyist periodicals,
while others speak at aquarium societies across the nation!

Meetings are free and open to everyone. If you've enjoyed them, we
urge you to become a member. You'll become a welcome part of our
community, and your dues help defray the costs of speakers and other
special things that show up at every meeting.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18444 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/1/2006
Subject: Re: tank testing
Dissolved oxygen is useful for pond keepers during the hottest part of the summer. It can also be useful if your fish are having problems, all your normal tests are OK, but the fish seem to be hanging near the surface, and you are perhaps seeing deaths with no external signs of problems. Chlorine to ensure your water conditioners are working as advertised in removing chloramines or chlorine, testing water driftwood is curing in after a bleach treatment, etc. Phosphates for an algal outbreak that you cannot seem to cure. Iron, if you are having problems with plants--most aquatic plants take up nutrients through their exposed surfaces rather than roots as terrestrial plants do, though there are other signs of iron deficiencies you can see without a test kit, such as yellowing of newish leaves and such.

Most of these test kits are not staples in your LFS. You need to order them from an online source and before this ability came along, from outlets who dealt in scientific materials.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 9:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tank testing

There are lots of things you can test for: Dissolved oxygen; chlorine;
phosphates; iron; and so on and on. Generally, you do not do these
tests
unless there is a specific need to do so. Some of these tests are a tad
on the expensive side.


\\Steve//



when would be the times you needed to do these additional tests?
Kerry







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18445 From: mytiel123 Date: 9/2/2006
Subject: tank testing
Dissolved oxygen is useful for pond keepers during the hottest part
of the
summer. It can also be useful if your fish are having problems, all
your normal
tests are OK, but the fish seem to be hanging near the surface, and
you are
perhaps seeing deaths with no external signs of problems. Chlorine
to ensure
your water conditioners are working as advertised in removing
chloramines or
chlorine, testing water driftwood is curing in after a bleach
treatment, etc.
Phosphates for an algal outbreak that you cannot seem to cure. Iron,
if you are
having problems with plants--most aquatic plants take up nutrients
through their
exposed surfaces rather than roots as terrestrial plants do, though
there are
other signs of iron deficiencies you can see without a test kit,
such as
yellowing of newish leaves and such.

Most of these test kits are not staples in your LFS. You need to
order them from
an online source and before this ability came along, from outlets
who dealt in
scientific materials.


\\Steve//


thanks Steve. Much appreciated
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18446 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Common Names Book
For those of you interested in the common names used by scientists (yes,
they also use common names from time to time), a publication is
available from the American Fisheries Society that lists the common
names of some 3700 species of fish found in North America (United
States, Canada, and Mexico). Perhaps a bit pricey at $60, it can serve
as a good reference for those interested in what common names are
accepted by science. You can order it from the American Fisheries
Society's online store.

http://www.fisheries.org/html/publications/catbooks/x51029.shtml

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18447 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
This is from _Copeia_ 2006(2), pp. 289-292 (full reference at end of post).

A couple of fellows studied the feeding habits of certain rock dwelling cichlids in Lake Malawi and one of the things they looked at was the angles at which they fed. If you are really interested, you'll need to locate a copy of this publication and read the full article.

They found that feeding habits did differ between the species studied, and (surprise) the mouth structure had a bearing on the feeding angle. Also, they found that the angle of the substrate they fed upon differed between species. _Labeotropheus_ spp., _Melanochromis auratus_, _M. zebra_, _Petrotilapia_ c.f. _elongatus_ and _Tropheops tropheops_ spent at least 80% of the time feeding from horizontal slopes. _Petrotilapia_ spp. Fed on vertical slopes 40% of the time, slanted approximately 30% of the time, and horizontal approximately 30% of the time. _Tropheus gracilior_ fed from vertical slopes approximately 60% of the time.

They found that there were four significantly different angle groups. Feeding at an approximate 35° angle was _L. trewavasae_, at 44-48° _L. fullerborni_, _M. auratus_, and _P._ c.f. _elongatus_, at 58.4° was _T. tropheops_, and at 84.2-90.2° were _Petrotilapia_ spp. _T. gracilior, and _M. zebra_. Angles were determined by the position of the body relative to the substrate the fish was feeding upon.

The authors found that these feeding behaviors held at various sites in the lake.

So, you might be asking yourself, if you have gotten this far, what does this mean for me? A good question, should you have been trying to keep any of these fish and have been having a problem. All these fish are known as rock dwellers, living in and among the rocks of the lake. This would mean that you have a lot of rocks in your tank (same may think they are in your head, but that is another post). They feed off various surface positions of the substrate--some from the horizontal, some from the vertical, and some in between. The are all "algae" feeders, living on the algal matter and microorganisms contained therein. This mixture of plant and animal material is often defined as "aufwuchs". If zooplankton is sufficient in the water column, these fish will utilize that as a food source, utilizing their aufwuchs source as a secondary food source when the zooplankton is not plentiful.

Territorial disputes between the species are minimized because they utilize different areas of the substrate to feed upon, which means that by a careful selection of fish, you can minimize interspecies disputes in your tank.

Stauffer, Jr., Jay R. and Isa Possner. 2006. An Investigation of Feeding Angles Among Lake Malawi Rock-dwelling Cichlids (Teleostei: Cichlidae). Copeia 2006(2):289-292.

Copeia is published by the American Society of Ichthyologists and Herpetologists and can be found in any science library. It is probably available via an interlibrary loan from your local library. An abstract of the article can be found at http://tinyurl.com/mgqed. If you happen to be close enough to a university, visit their library an make use of their resources. You'll find more interesting things available there than the copy of Copeia I have just mentioned.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18448 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: L Numbers and Other Codes (Long Post)
Recently a member had a question of an identity of one of her fishes.
This precipitated a long thread which included the use of L numbers
which went off on a tangent about the use of such. Naturally the
original questioner threw up her hands in disgust over the technical
discussion.

It may be time to take a look at the various conventions used in naming
fish and how they relate to the true identity of the fish. This
discussion will focus upon the use of codes, but touch upon other
aspects of fish naming.

For most of those who keep fish, the name attached to it in the LFS is
enough. They feel they do not need to go beyond that. However, when they
need more information on the fish, they will need to research that fish.
If the fish they have was called the whazzit fish, they will look for
information on the whazzit fish and not find it, because this was a
local name given to the fish by the shop owner, the distributor, or
somewhere else along the distribution line, usually to try to make the
fish more salable. If the name is not corrected along the way, the
common name sticks, and accurate identification is difficult. In an
earlier post today, I listed a book on common names that are accepted by
science. This would be a good place to start, but you may not know
enough to identify the fish still. Looking for a photo of your fish in
another reference, such as the Baensch Atlas, may be another way to get
the identification. However many fish may look similar to others.
Another resource may be http://www.fishbase.org where one of the
searches is on common name. While it is not all inclusive, it is
probably the best online resource for searching on fish names, both
common and scientific. However, fishbase.org does not list fish by L
numbers or any other code.

There is also a problem since we do have a good number of fish in the
hobby that have not yet been scientifically described. These fish are
generally not found in the books we use for reference, and it can be
hard to find information about them. Articles about them may be found in
one of several available general circulation magazines about the hobby,
other may only appear in club publications, which only the most
dedicated researcher will then locate any information about that fish.
It was this quandary that led to the development of the L number system,
and following that, other code systems for various groups of fish. I'll
be speaking about the L numbers, but the other code systems follow the
same rationale.

The L number system was developed in Germany. "Well, the L-numbers were
invented on a Munich biergarten meeting between the editor of DATZ and a
large catfish importer (that's what I think but
don't really know)." (1) from a source I have in Germany. DATZ is a
publication from Germany that is widely respected. The system was
developed in the mid-1980's and was to resolve an issue where there were
numbers of catfish being imported that were maybe nice fish, but
unknown, and aquarists who may be interested in the fish, but did not
know of their existence. Therefore, this system was devised by DATZ and
the catfish importer to cover the Loricariids. The primary impetus was
to sell catfish.

DATZ has kept a tight rein on the L number system since. There have been
some problems with it. Some species that are different, yet similar may
share the same L number. An example would be L 200 and L 200 "hi fin",
which have been placed in different genera. Another magazine wished to
participate in the program. "Das Aquarium" another German magazine asked
DATZ for permission to join into the program, and DATZ denied it. What
happened was that "Das Aquarium" came up with their own system
"Loricariidae Das Aquarium" or LDA. So now we have two methods of
identifying unidentified Loricariid catfish. LDA number are not widely
used in the United States, and I do not know of their status in other
parts of the world.

There are two other code systems in use, neither of which I am familiar
with. There are C numbers for Corydoras and A numbers for Apistogrammas
(a number of which have been reclassified to _Mikrogeophagus_ recently).


So, what is the validity of these systems? Actually, none. These systems
are merely meant as a convenient way for aquarists to identify fish that
currently do not have scientific names. There is the problem that many
fish may look eerily similar, and be given the same code, but actually
be widely diverse in other areas beyond the look of the fish. A study of
the fish may show different scale counts not readily apparent to the
more casual observer, there may be different alignments of teeth or
different types of dentition between two fish with the same code number,
etc.

The use of the code to identify the fish is to be discontinued when the
fish is described, but this does not happen as it should. However, one
can say the same of a scientific name that has been changed from further
research. For example, many still call "Apistogramma ramirezi" by that
name when it has been reclassified as _Mikrogeophagus ramirezi" several
years ago.(2) So, my feeling is that this argument is a red herring.

The code systems have no validity in the world of science. They do not
follow any of the conventions of naming organisms, and are not
recognized as valid names.

When talking about the various codes, one does need a reference to the
codes to understand what the other person is talking about. For the l
codes, there is an online reference at http://www.l-welse.com/. This
site is in German, so one, generally, would need to use a translation
site to read it. (Firefox users can install the extension FoxLingo to
help with finding a translation engine and translating a site from one
language to another.)

Are the number codes helpful. I think so, so long as one remembers their
limitations and the general lack of widely available references to these
codes. Hence one could reference L 27 as a possible identification while
noting that it is probably a member of the _Panaque_ genus to cover all
the bases.

References:
1. Harro Hieronimous (PC), 2006
2. http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=12305

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18449 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Some More West Coast Photography
I've put some new shots out in my photo gallery for your visual
entertainment.

Here are three new shots from the Monterey aquarium:

http://tinyurl.com/zh72f <http://tinyurl.com/zh72f>


Enjoy!

Arthur




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18450 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Hi Steve, Similar information in an in-depth (no pun intended) 76
page paper written by Dr. Goeffrey Fryer in 1957 covers much of this
subject of Mbuna feeding habits, mouth structures, ect. This paper
was sent to me by Peter Davies in the early 1970's when I was
importing Malawi fish from him.

The rather long title (as many of these papers are) of this paper
is: "The Trophic Interrelationships and Ecology of some Littoral
Communities of Lake Nyasa with Especial Reference to the Fishes, and
a Discussion of the Evolution of a Group of Rock-Frequenting
Cichlidae." It was written at the time for Northern Rhodesia-
Nyassaland Joint Fisheries Research Organization and may be available
by writing East African Fisheries Research Organization, P.O. Box
343, Jinja, Uganda.

Much of this information is included in the book entitled "The
Cichlid Fishes of the Great Lakes of Africa -- (Their Biology and
Evolution)" by Geoffrey Fryer and T.D. Iles, which is long out of
print (1972) but may possibly be available on eBay or though on-line
bookstores such as < www.bookfinder4u.com >. I recommend this as a
good read.

I've recently read current articles of the same nature, dealing with
the interactions of various Mbuna living in the same biotope, but
after briefly looking I can't find where I saw this material. It
dealt with the different species of Mbuna and their varying dentition
allowing some species to go back over the same algae covered areas
and comb the algae deeper, allowing them to get aufwuchs closer to
the substrate (rock) than the previous species.

As I recall, It was species such as Pseudotropheus elongatus which
could take advantage of this situation after species such as
Labeotropheus had already browsed the same area, each getting the
nutrients they needed at different levels of the algae. It was
pointed out too that, depending upon the species and their needs,
while they did take in algae, many species used their teeth to "comb"
the algae removing just the foods (insect larvae, crustaceans, etc.)
they needed, leaving behind most of the algae. Will advise if I come
across this literature. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This is from _Copeia_ 2006(2), pp. 289-292 (full reference at end
of post).
>
> A couple of fellows studied the feeding habits of certain rock
dwelling cichlids in Lake Malawi and one of the things they looked at
was the angles at which they fed. If you are really interested,
you'll need to locate a copy of this publication and read the full
article.
>
> They found that feeding habits did differ between the species
studied, and (surprise) the mouth structure had a bearing on the
feeding angle. Also, they found that the angle of the substrate they
fed upon differed between species. _Labeotropheus_ spp.,
_Melanochromis auratus_, _M. zebra_, _Petrotilapia_ c.f. _elongatus_
and _Tropheops tropheops_ spent at least 80% of the time feeding from
horizontal slopes. _Petrotilapia_ spp. Fed on vertical slopes 40% of
the time, slanted approximately 30% of the time, and horizontal
approximately 30% of the time. _Tropheus gracilior_ fed from vertical
slopes approximately 60% of the time.
>
> They found that there were four significantly different angle
groups. Feeding at an approximate 35° angle was _L. trewavasae_, at
44-48° _L. fullerborni_, _M. auratus_, and _P._ c.f. _elongatus_, at
58.4° was _T. tropheops_, and at 84.2-90.2° were _Petrotilapia_ spp.
_T. gracilior, and _M. zebra_. Angles were determined by the position
of the body relative to the substrate the fish was feeding upon.
>
> The authors found that these feeding behaviors held at various
sites in the lake.
>
> So, you might be asking yourself, if you have gotten this far, what
does this mean for me? A good question, should you have been trying
to keep any of these fish and have been having a problem. All these
fish are known as rock dwellers, living in and among the rocks of the
lake. This would mean that you have a lot of rocks in your tank (same
may think they are in your head, but that is another post). They feed
off various surface positions of the substrate--some from the
horizontal, some from the vertical, and some in between. The are
all "algae" feeders, living on the algal matter and microorganisms
contained therein. This mixture of plant and animal material is often
defined as "aufwuchs". If zooplankton is sufficient in the water
column, these fish will utilize that as a food source, utilizing
their aufwuchs source as a secondary food source when the zooplankton
is not plentiful.
>
> Territorial disputes between the species are minimized because they
utilize different areas of the substrate to feed upon, which means
that by a careful selection of fish, you can minimize interspecies
disputes in your tank.
>
> Stauffer, Jr., Jay R. and Isa Possner. 2006. An Investigation of
Feeding Angles Among Lake Malawi Rock-dwelling Cichlids (Teleostei:
Cichlidae). Copeia 2006(2):289-292.
>
> Copeia is published by the American Society of Ichthyologists and
Herpetologists and can be found in any science library. It is
probably available via an interlibrary loan from your local library.
An abstract of the article can be found at http://tinyurl.com/mgqed.
If you happen to be close enough to a university, visit their library
an make use of their resources. You'll find more interesting things
available there than the copy of Copeia I have just mentioned.
>
> \\Steve//
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18451 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Ray,

The paper by Fryer is cited in the references of the article, but the date is listed as 1959. I've also seen other mentions of this kind of behavior in Rift Lake cichlids, but since I have never kept them, or had much interest in them, I'd probably have a bit of work ahead were I to try to find the articles. I'm sure I've seen something of this sort in the Buntbarsche Bulletin, but would probably not be able to place my hand son the correct copies for a bit. (For those curious, the Buntbarsche Bulletin is a publication of the American Cichlid Association - http://www.cichlid.org.)

The book you mention is not referenced by the article.

I just finished reading the article the other day, and thought I would post it for a few reasons. First, algal growth can serve a purpose in an aquarium, and is not necessarily to be reviled. Second that different fish have different manners of feeding although they can be found to live in the same area together. And third, as you have helped to point out, there are lots of places one can find information about fishes that they may be keeping or wish to keep.

Also, the list is a bit quite this weekend, so I did not know whether anyone was paying any attention <G>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 11:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids

Hi Steve, Similar information in an in-depth (no pun intended) 76
page paper written by Dr. Goeffrey Fryer in 1957 covers much of this
subject of Mbuna feeding habits, mouth structures, ect. This paper
was sent to me by Peter Davies in the early 1970's when I was
importing Malawi fish from him.

The rather long title (as many of these papers are) of this paper
is: "The Trophic Interrelationships and Ecology of some Littoral
Communities of Lake Nyasa with Especial Reference to the Fishes, and
a Discussion of the Evolution of a Group of Rock-Frequenting
Cichlidae." It was written at the time for Northern Rhodesia-
Nyassaland Joint Fisheries Research Organization and may be available
by writing East African Fisheries Research Organization, P.O. Box
343, Jinja, Uganda.

Much of this information is included in the book entitled "The
Cichlid Fishes of the Great Lakes of Africa -- (Their Biology and
Evolution)" by Geoffrey Fryer and T.D. Iles, which is long out of
print (1972) but may possibly be available on eBay or though on-line
bookstores such as < www.bookfinder4u.com >. I recommend this as a
good read.

I've recently read current articles of the same nature, dealing with
the interactions of various Mbuna living in the same biotope, but
after briefly looking I can't find where I saw this material. It
dealt with the different species of Mbuna and their varying dentition
allowing some species to go back over the same algae covered areas
and comb the algae deeper, allowing them to get aufwuchs closer to
the substrate (rock) than the previous species.

As I recall, It was species such as Pseudotropheus elongatus which
could take advantage of this situation after species such as
Labeotropheus had already browsed the same area, each getting the
nutrients they needed at different levels of the algae. It was
pointed out too that, depending upon the species and their needs,
while they did take in algae, many species used their teeth to "comb"
the algae removing just the foods (insect larvae, crustaceans, etc.)
they needed, leaving behind most of the algae. Will advise if I come
across this literature. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This is from _Copeia_ 2006(2), pp. 289-292 (full reference at end
of post).
>
> A couple of fellows studied the feeding habits of certain rock
dwelling cichlids in Lake Malawi and one of the things they looked at
was the angles at which they fed. If you are really interested,
you'll need to locate a copy of this publication and read the full
article.
>
> They found that feeding habits did differ between the species
studied, and (surprise) the mouth structure had a bearing on the
feeding angle. Also, they found that the angle of the substrate they
fed upon differed between species. _Labeotropheus_ spp.,
_Melanochromis auratus_, _M. zebra_, _Petrotilapia_ c.f. _elongatus_
and _Tropheops tropheops_ spent at least 80% of the time feeding from
horizontal slopes. _Petrotilapia_ spp. Fed on vertical slopes 40% of
the time, slanted approximately 30% of the time, and horizontal
approximately 30% of the time. _Tropheus gracilior_ fed from vertical
slopes approximately 60% of the time.
>
> They found that there were four significantly different angle
groups. Feeding at an approximate 35° angle was _L. trewavasae_, at
44-48° _L. fullerborni_, _M. auratus_, and _P._ c.f. _elongatus_, at
58.4° was _T. tropheops_, and at 84.2-90.2° were _Petrotilapia_ spp.
_T. gracilior, and _M. zebra_. Angles were determined by the position
of the body relative to the substrate the fish was feeding upon.
>
> The authors found that these feeding behaviors held at various
sites in the lake.
>
> So, you might be asking yourself, if you have gotten this far, what
does this mean for me? A good question, should you have been trying
to keep any of these fish and have been having a problem. All these
fish are known as rock dwellers, living in and among the rocks of the
lake. This would mean that you have a lot of rocks in your tank (same
may think they are in your head, but that is another post). They feed
off various surface positions of the substrate--some from the
horizontal, some from the vertical, and some in between. The are
all "algae" feeders, living on the algal matter and microorganisms
contained therein. This mixture of plant and animal material is often
defined as "aufwuchs". If zooplankton is sufficient in the water
column, these fish will utilize that as a food source, utilizing
their aufwuchs source as a secondary food source when the zooplankton
is not plentiful.
>
> Territorial disputes between the species are minimized because they
utilize different areas of the substrate to feed upon, which means
that by a careful selection of fish, you can minimize interspecies
disputes in your tank.
>
> Stauffer, Jr., Jay R. and Isa Possner. 2006. An Investigation of
Feeding Angles Among Lake Malawi Rock-dwelling Cichlids (Teleostei:
Cichlidae). Copeia 2006(2):289-292.
>
> Copeia is published by the American Society of Ichthyologists and
Herpetologists and can be found in any science library. It is
probably available via an interlibrary loan from your local library.
An abstract of the article can be found at http://tinyurl.com/mgqed.
If you happen to be close enough to a university, visit their library
an make use of their resources. You'll find more interesting things
available there than the copy of Copeia I have just mentioned.
>
> \\Steve//
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18452 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Steve, That's extremely odd that your article's reference dates
Fryer's paper as 1959, not that it matters much, but the date may
help in finding the piece if someone were to look for it. I have it
in front of me and it states on it "Accepted 8th October, 1957." I
don't understand the discrepancy, but there must be a reason for it.

Anyhow, yeah I thought I saw something on this topic in one of the
fairly recent Buntbarsche Bulletins. I made a fast check through
half a dozen issues, but couldn't come up with anything, then checked
a few "Cichlidae Communique" bulletins to no avail. For those
curious, the latter bulletin is a excellent publication of the
Pacific Coast Cichlid Association, edited by Pam Chin who does a bang-
up job; < www.cichlidworld.com > -- not that I'm a PCCA member; just
happen to get the "Cichlidae Communique" as an exchange bulletin
(w/NJAS).

I sincerely like your reason for posting (LOL), its about as good a
reason as any! Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> The paper by Fryer is cited in the references of the article, but
the date is listed as 1959. I've also seen other mentions of this
kind of behavior in Rift Lake cichlids, but since I have never kept
them, or had much interest in them, I'd probably have a bit of work
ahead were I to try to find the articles. I'm sure I've seen
something of this sort in the Buntbarsche Bulletin, but would
probably not be able to place my hand son the correct copies for a
bit. (For those curious, the Buntbarsche Bulletin is a publication of
the American Cichlid Association - http://www.cichlid.org.)
>
> The book you mention is not referenced by the article.
>
> I just finished reading the article the other day, and thought I
would post it for a few reasons. First, algal growth can serve a
purpose in an aquarium, and is not necessarily to be reviled. Second
that different fish have different manners of feeding although they
can be found to live in the same area together. And third, as you
have helped to point out, there are lots of places one can find
information about fishes that they may be keeping or wish to keep.
>
> Also, the list is a bit quite this weekend, so I did not know
whether anyone was paying any attention <G>.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 11:27 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi
Cichlids
>
> Hi Steve, Similar information in an in-depth (no pun intended) 76
> page paper written by Dr. Goeffrey Fryer in 1957 covers much of
this
> subject of Mbuna feeding habits, mouth structures, ect. This paper
> was sent to me by Peter Davies in the early 1970's when I was
> importing Malawi fish from him.
>
> The rather long title (as many of these papers are) of this paper
> is: "The Trophic Interrelationships and Ecology of some Littoral
> Communities of Lake Nyasa with Especial Reference to the Fishes,
and
> a Discussion of the Evolution of a Group of Rock-Frequenting
> Cichlidae." It was written at the time for Northern Rhodesia-
> Nyassaland Joint Fisheries Research Organization and may be
available
> by writing East African Fisheries Research Organization, P.O. Box
> 343, Jinja, Uganda.
>
> Much of this information is included in the book entitled "The
> Cichlid Fishes of the Great Lakes of Africa -- (Their Biology and
> Evolution)" by Geoffrey Fryer and T.D. Iles, which is long out of
> print (1972) but may possibly be available on eBay or though on-
line
> bookstores such as < www.bookfinder4u.com >. I recommend this as a
> good read.
>
> I've recently read current articles of the same nature, dealing
with
> the interactions of various Mbuna living in the same biotope, but
> after briefly looking I can't find where I saw this material. It
> dealt with the different species of Mbuna and their varying
dentition
> allowing some species to go back over the same algae covered areas
> and comb the algae deeper, allowing them to get aufwuchs closer to
> the substrate (rock) than the previous species.
>
> As I recall, It was species such as Pseudotropheus elongatus which
> could take advantage of this situation after species such as
> Labeotropheus had already browsed the same area, each getting the
> nutrients they needed at different levels of the algae. It was
> pointed out too that, depending upon the species and their needs,
> while they did take in algae, many species used their teeth
to "comb"
> the algae removing just the foods (insect larvae, crustaceans,
etc.)
> they needed, leaving behind most of the algae. Will advise if I
come
> across this literature. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > This is from _Copeia_ 2006(2), pp. 289-292 (full reference at end
> of post).
> >
> > A couple of fellows studied the feeding habits of certain rock
> dwelling cichlids in Lake Malawi and one of the things they looked
at
> was the angles at which they fed. If you are really interested,
> you'll need to locate a copy of this publication and read the full
> article.
> >
> > They found that feeding habits did differ between the species
> studied, and (surprise) the mouth structure had a bearing on the
> feeding angle. Also, they found that the angle of the substrate
they
> fed upon differed between species. _Labeotropheus_ spp.,
> _Melanochromis auratus_, _M. zebra_, _Petrotilapia_ c.f.
_elongatus_
> and _Tropheops tropheops_ spent at least 80% of the time feeding
from
> horizontal slopes. _Petrotilapia_ spp. Fed on vertical slopes 40%
of
> the time, slanted approximately 30% of the time, and horizontal
> approximately 30% of the time. _Tropheus gracilior_ fed from
vertical
> slopes approximately 60% of the time.
> >
> > They found that there were four significantly different angle
> groups. Feeding at an approximate 35° angle was _L. trewavasae_, at
> 44-48° _L. fullerborni_, _M. auratus_, and _P._ c.f. _elongatus_,
at
> 58.4° was _T. tropheops_, and at 84.2-90.2° were _Petrotilapia_
spp.
> _T. gracilior, and _M. zebra_. Angles were determined by the
position
> of the body relative to the substrate the fish was feeding upon.
> >
> > The authors found that these feeding behaviors held at various
> sites in the lake.
> >
> > So, you might be asking yourself, if you have gotten this far,
what
> does this mean for me? A good question, should you have been trying
> to keep any of these fish and have been having a problem. All these
> fish are known as rock dwellers, living in and among the rocks of
the
> lake. This would mean that you have a lot of rocks in your tank
(same
> may think they are in your head, but that is another post). They
feed
> off various surface positions of the substrate--some from the
> horizontal, some from the vertical, and some in between. The are
> all "algae" feeders, living on the algal matter and microorganisms
> contained therein. This mixture of plant and animal material is
often
> defined as "aufwuchs". If zooplankton is sufficient in the water
> column, these fish will utilize that as a food source, utilizing
> their aufwuchs source as a secondary food source when the
zooplankton
> is not plentiful.
> >
> > Territorial disputes between the species are minimized because
they
> utilize different areas of the substrate to feed upon, which means
> that by a careful selection of fish, you can minimize interspecies
> disputes in your tank.
> >
> > Stauffer, Jr., Jay R. and Isa Possner. 2006. An Investigation of
> Feeding Angles Among Lake Malawi Rock-dwelling Cichlids (Teleostei:
> Cichlidae). Copeia 2006(2):289-292.
> >
> > Copeia is published by the American Society of Ichthyologists and
> Herpetologists and can be found in any science library. It is
> probably available via an interlibrary loan from your local
library.
> An abstract of the article can be found at
http://tinyurl.com/mgqed.
> If you happen to be close enough to a university, visit their
library
> an make use of their resources. You'll find more interesting things
> available there than the copy of Copeia I have just mentioned.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18453 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Often there is a difference in the accepted date and the published date of an article. I don't have the article I referred to in front of me, but the accepted date on the article was three issues of Copeia prior to the published date. It may well have been a delay in publication from the accepted date to the published date (maybe not a full two years, but maybe it was published in January of 1959).

I note that I misspelled quiet. Oh for a context checker as well <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 3:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids

Steve, That's extremely odd that your article's reference dates
Fryer's paper as 1959, not that it matters much, but the date may
help in finding the piece if someone were to look for it. I have it
in front of me and it states on it "Accepted 8th October, 1957." I
don't understand the discrepancy, but there must be a reason for it.

Anyhow, yeah I thought I saw something on this topic in one of the
fairly recent Buntbarsche Bulletins. I made a fast check through
half a dozen issues, but couldn't come up with anything, then checked
a few "Cichlidae Communique" bulletins to no avail. For those
curious, the latter bulletin is a excellent publication of the
Pacific Coast Cichlid Association, edited by Pam Chin who does a bang-
up job; < www.cichlidworld.com > -- not that I'm a PCCA member; just
happen to get the "Cichlidae Communique" as an exchange bulletin
(w/NJAS).

I sincerely like your reason for posting (LOL), its about as good a
reason as any! Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> The paper by Fryer is cited in the references of the article, but
the date is listed as 1959. I've also seen other mentions of this
kind of behavior in Rift Lake cichlids, but since I have never kept
them, or had much interest in them, I'd probably have a bit of work
ahead were I to try to find the articles. I'm sure I've seen
something of this sort in the Buntbarsche Bulletin, but would
probably not be able to place my hand son the correct copies for a
bit. (For those curious, the Buntbarsche Bulletin is a publication of
the American Cichlid Association - http://www.cichlid.org.)
>
> The book you mention is not referenced by the article.
>
> I just finished reading the article the other day, and thought I
would post it for a few reasons. First, algal growth can serve a
purpose in an aquarium, and is not necessarily to be reviled. Second
that different fish have different manners of feeding although they
can be found to live in the same area together. And third, as you
have helped to point out, there are lots of places one can find
information about fishes that they may be keeping or wish to keep.
>
> Also, the list is a bit quite this weekend, so I did not know
whether anyone was paying any attention <G>.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 11:27 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi
Cichlids
>
> Hi Steve, Similar information in an in-depth (no pun intended) 76
> page paper written by Dr. Goeffrey Fryer in 1957 covers much of
this
> subject of Mbuna feeding habits, mouth structures, ect. This paper
> was sent to me by Peter Davies in the early 1970's when I was
> importing Malawi fish from him.
>
> The rather long title (as many of these papers are) of this paper
> is: "The Trophic Interrelationships and Ecology of some Littoral
> Communities of Lake Nyasa with Especial Reference to the Fishes,
and
> a Discussion of the Evolution of a Group of Rock-Frequenting
> Cichlidae." It was written at the time for Northern Rhodesia-
> Nyassaland Joint Fisheries Research Organization and may be
available
> by writing East African Fisheries Research Organization, P.O. Box
> 343, Jinja, Uganda.
>
> Much of this information is included in the book entitled "The
> Cichlid Fishes of the Great Lakes of Africa -- (Their Biology and
> Evolution)" by Geoffrey Fryer and T.D. Iles, which is long out of
> print (1972) but may possibly be available on eBay or though on-
line
> bookstores such as < www.bookfinder4u.com >. I recommend this as a
> good read.
>
> I've recently read current articles of the same nature, dealing
with
> the interactions of various Mbuna living in the same biotope, but
> after briefly looking I can't find where I saw this material. It
> dealt with the different species of Mbuna and their varying
dentition
> allowing some species to go back over the same algae covered areas
> and comb the algae deeper, allowing them to get aufwuchs closer to
> the substrate (rock) than the previous species.
>
> As I recall, It was species such as Pseudotropheus elongatus which
> could take advantage of this situation after species such as
> Labeotropheus had already browsed the same area, each getting the
> nutrients they needed at different levels of the algae. It was
> pointed out too that, depending upon the species and their needs,
> while they did take in algae, many species used their teeth
to "comb"
> the algae removing just the foods (insect larvae, crustaceans,
etc.)
> they needed, leaving behind most of the algae. Will advise if I
come
> across this literature. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > This is from _Copeia_ 2006(2), pp. 289-292 (full reference at end
> of post).
> >
> > A couple of fellows studied the feeding habits of certain rock
> dwelling cichlids in Lake Malawi and one of the things they looked
at
> was the angles at which they fed. If you are really interested,
> you'll need to locate a copy of this publication and read the full
> article.
> >
> > They found that feeding habits did differ between the species
> studied, and (surprise) the mouth structure had a bearing on the
> feeding angle. Also, they found that the angle of the substrate
they
> fed upon differed between species. _Labeotropheus_ spp.,
> _Melanochromis auratus_, _M. zebra_, _Petrotilapia_ c.f.
_elongatus_
> and _Tropheops tropheops_ spent at least 80% of the time feeding
from
> horizontal slopes. _Petrotilapia_ spp. Fed on vertical slopes 40%
of
> the time, slanted approximately 30% of the time, and horizontal
> approximately 30% of the time. _Tropheus gracilior_ fed from
vertical
> slopes approximately 60% of the time.
> >
> > They found that there were four significantly different angle
> groups. Feeding at an approximate 35° angle was _L. trewavasae_, at
> 44-48° _L. fullerborni_, _M. auratus_, and _P._ c.f. _elongatus_,
at
> 58.4° was _T. tropheops_, and at 84.2-90.2° were _Petrotilapia_
spp.
> _T. gracilior, and _M. zebra_. Angles were determined by the
position
> of the body relative to the substrate the fish was feeding upon.
> >
> > The authors found that these feeding behaviors held at various
> sites in the lake.
> >
> > So, you might be asking yourself, if you have gotten this far,
what
> does this mean for me? A good question, should you have been trying
> to keep any of these fish and have been having a problem. All these
> fish are known as rock dwellers, living in and among the rocks of
the
> lake. This would mean that you have a lot of rocks in your tank
(same
> may think they are in your head, but that is another post). They
feed
> off various surface positions of the substrate--some from the
> horizontal, some from the vertical, and some in between. The are
> all "algae" feeders, living on the algal matter and microorganisms
> contained therein. This mixture of plant and animal material is
often
> defined as "aufwuchs". If zooplankton is sufficient in the water
> column, these fish will utilize that as a food source, utilizing
> their aufwuchs source as a secondary food source when the
zooplankton
> is not plentiful.
> >
> > Territorial disputes between the species are minimized because
they
> utilize different areas of the substrate to feed upon, which means
> that by a careful selection of fish, you can minimize interspecies
> disputes in your tank.
> >
> > Stauffer, Jr., Jay R. and Isa Possner. 2006. An Investigation of
> Feeding Angles Among Lake Malawi Rock-dwelling Cichlids (Teleostei:
> Cichlidae). Copeia 2006(2):289-292.
> >
> > Copeia is published by the American Society of Ichthyologists and
> Herpetologists and can be found in any science library. It is
> probably available via an interlibrary loan from your local
library.
> An abstract of the article can be found at
http://tinyurl.com/mgqed.
> If you happen to be close enough to a university, visit their
library
> an make use of their resources. You'll find more interesting things
> available there than the copy of Copeia I have just mentioned.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18454 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Aquarium Society Listings
Can someone tell me where to list an aquarium club/society? We have
started a local group and would like to get it listed. All my searches
are just leading me to local clubs w/ no particular common organization.
Thanks,
Leslie (Cabot, Arkansas)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18455 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
I bought a small flat heater and plan to use it in the eclipse 3 w/ live
plants and a few neons.
(http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087&rel
=1> &rel=1)
I didn't realize it wasn't adjustable and that it simply keeps the water
a few degrees higher than the room temp. Is this a good idea? It
doesn't usually get over 76 in our home, but it does vary especially in
the summer when it can be up to 81 in here! It says to unplug it when
this happens but that seems unstable and I don't want it to affect my
fish or plants.

Any ideas? And if this isn't a good heater, which one should I get for
such a small tank?

Also, I'm looking at substrate for the same setup. Which should I buy
for live plants? Again, I'm looking at getting this from Fosters and
Smith.

Thanks!
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18456 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Society Listings
well I do not think there is a complete listing but here are a few of the
more prominant places to list your club:


_http://fins.actwin.com/dir/clubs.php_ (http://fins.actwin.com/dir/clubs.php)

_http://www.netpets.org/fish/fishclub.html_
(http://www.netpets.org/fish/fishclub.html)

_http://www.fishlinkcentral.com/_ (http://www.fishlinkcentral.com/)

_http://www.fishclubs.com_ (http://www.fishclubs.com)

Hope these help you get started... Might also send neighboring clubs an
email letting them know you are starting up a new club. Good luck I hope you
every bit of success in the future



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18457 From: Aaron Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Society Listings
In the Links Section of the Group, the 2nd Folder from the top is
just for that

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/links/Clubs__Societys___As_0
01071357150/

Societys, Clubs, Associations, Councils, Groups etc...
AGA, SFAS, SFBAAPS, SVAS, BAKA, SEABay, PCCA, ACA, NANFA, ACS, CBS,
GSAS, IBC, IFGA, IGS, IMAC, SKS, PPGA, SDKG, SCMAS, MASNA, ...

Also, the fish magazines have a directory in the back pages as well.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Can someone tell me where to list an aquarium club/society? We have
> started a local group and would like to get it listed. All my
searches
> are just leading me to local clubs w/ no particular common
organization.
> Thanks,
> Leslie (Cabot, Arkansas)
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18458 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
I believe if it is a flat heater that you stick on to it they are meant for dessert terreruims and arent safe with water.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: I bought a small flat heater and plan to use it in the eclipse 3 w/ live
plants and a few neons.
(http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087&rel
=1> &rel=1)
I didn't realize it wasn't adjustable and that it simply keeps the water
a few degrees higher than the room temp. Is this a good idea? It
doesn't usually get over 76 in our home, but it does vary especially in
the summer when it can be up to 81 in here! It says to unplug it when
this happens but that seems unstable and I don't want it to affect my
fish or plants.

Any ideas? And if this isn't a good heater, which one should I get for
such a small tank?

Also, I'm looking at substrate for the same setup. Which should I buy
for live plants? Again, I'm looking at getting this from Fosters and
Smith.

Thanks!
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18459 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Re: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
It is probably OK to use. Just unplug during the summer, and if your
room temperature does not vary much, you should be all set. You might
want to look at some white clouds rather than the neons. While they are
a cooler water fish and show better at lower temperatures, the
temperature variations should not bother them as much. The white clouds
will also put up better with the variations in water quality that happen
in such a small tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 7:15 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question

I bought a small flat heater and plan to use it in the eclipse 3 w/ live
plants and a few neons.
(http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087&rel
=1> &rel=1)
I didn't realize it wasn't adjustable and that it simply keeps the water
a few degrees higher than the room temp. Is this a good idea? It
doesn't usually get over 76 in our home, but it does vary especially in
the summer when it can be up to 81 in here! It says to unplug it when
this happens but that seems unstable and I don't want it to affect my
fish or plants.

Any ideas? And if this isn't a good heater, which one should I get for
such a small tank?

Also, I'm looking at substrate for the same setup. Which should I buy
for live plants? Again, I'm looking at getting this from Fosters and
Smith.

Thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18460 From: aclaar877 Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Lighting for Neon Tetras
Last week I visited the Florida aquarium in Tampa, and they had an
exhibit on home aquariums. The big display was a 25-30 foot long tank
with all kinds of freshwater fish, including a school of neon tetras.
I could not believe the bright, strong blue color. I had no idea the
fish could look this good. It was even deeper than the cardinal
tetras. I'm wondering what light bulbs or combination of bulbs can
enhance their color like this. I know water quality, feeding, and
school size are factors, but I'd like to know if any of you have
experimented with different lighting for these fish, and what
combinations of bulbs work best. I've gotten decent results mixing a
10,000K with a Coralife plant bulb, but nothing like these at the
Florida aquarium. I might write them and see what they have on this
big tank.


Andy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18461 From: monsterdealz Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Filter question
Hi, I am new to the group and I have a question regarding filters. I
have a 10 gallon tank and for the last several years I have been using
the Penquin brand filters. They work okay, but they don't seem to be
very durable. I am on my second one and it is just over a year old, and
it is not keeping the water as clear and clean as it did when it was
just a few months old, which leads me to believe that it is about to
break down.

I change 25% of my water every week, test the PH twice a week, and I am
very careful not to overfead my fish as well as the tank. I also vacumm
the gravel every week, but I need a filter that is able to not only
keep the water clean, but can suck up the fish enterals that are on the
surface of the gravel.

Thank you.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18462 From: harry perry Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question/monsterdealz?? a name would be nice
I use Whispers in all my tanks. I always overfilter. They seem to last a long time.
Canisters might be the best but I can't afford them.

Harry

monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote: Hi, I am new to the group and I have a question regarding filters. I
have a 10 gallon tank and for the last several years I have been using
the Penquin brand filters. They work okay, but they don't seem to be
very durable. I am on my second one and it is just over a year old, and
it is not keeping the water as clear and clean as it did when it was
just a few months old, which leads me to believe that it is about to
break down.

I change 25% of my water every week, test the PH twice a week, and I am
very careful not to overfead my fish as well as the tank. I also vacumm
the gravel every week, but I need a filter that is able to not only
keep the water clean, but can suck up the fish enterals that are on the
surface of the gravel.

Thank you.






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18463 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting for Neon Tetras
It might not be so much the particular lighting as it is the condition
of the fish and the habitat they have. For instance, a dark or black
substrate and a dark background with ordinary light will make those
neons stand out. Feeding them live foods will help bring out the color
as well.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of aclaar877
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 12:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting for Neon Tetras

Last week I visited the Florida aquarium in Tampa, and they had an
exhibit on home aquariums. The big display was a 25-30 foot long tank
with all kinds of freshwater fish, including a school of neon tetras.
I could not believe the bright, strong blue color. I had no idea the
fish could look this good. It was even deeper than the cardinal
tetras. I'm wondering what light bulbs or combination of bulbs can
enhance their color like this. I know water quality, feeding, and
school size are factors, but I'd like to know if any of you have
experimented with different lighting for these fish, and what
combinations of bulbs work best. I've gotten decent results mixing a
10,000K with a Coralife plant bulb, but nothing like these at the
Florida aquarium. I might write them and see what they have on this
big tank.


Andy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18464 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question
Do you change the cartridges at least once a month?

monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote: Hi, I am new to the group and I have a question regarding filters. I
have a 10 gallon tank and for the last several years I have been using
the Penquin brand filters. They work okay, but they don't seem to be
very durable. I am on my second one and it is just over a year old, and
it is not keeping the water as clear and clean as it did when it was
just a few months old, which leads me to believe that it is about to
break down.

I change 25% of my water every week, test the PH twice a week, and I am
very careful not to overfead my fish as well as the tank. I also vacumm
the gravel every week, but I need a filter that is able to not only
keep the water clean, but can suck up the fish enterals that are on the
surface of the gravel.

Thank you.






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18465 From: wendie Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting for Neon Tetras
I have some green neons in a tank with leached tea colored water
and fairly dark surroundings... lovely looking. I want to add a few
more to the school. They are very small so all you can currently
see from across the room is this neon colored stripe moving around!
Wendie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 12:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting for Neon Tetras


It might not be so much the particular lighting as it is the condition
of the fish and the habitat they have. For instance, a dark or black
substrate and a dark background with ordinary light will make those
neons stand out. Feeding them live foods will help bring out the color
as well.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of aclaar877
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 12:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting for Neon Tetras

Last week I visited the Florida aquarium in Tampa, and they had an
exhibit on home aquariums. The big display was a 25-30 foot long tank
with all kinds of freshwater fish, including a school of neon tetras.
I could not believe the bright, strong blue color. I had no idea the
fish could look this good. It was even deeper than the cardinal
tetras. I'm wondering what light bulbs or combination of bulbs can
enhance their color like this. I know water quality, feeding, and
school size are factors, but I'd like to know if any of you have
experimented with different lighting for these fish, and what
combinations of bulbs work best. I've gotten decent results mixing a
10,000K with a Coralife plant bulb, but nothing like these at the
Florida aquarium. I might write them and see what they have on this
big tank.

Andy





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18466 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question
the point about the cartridge is valid do you rinse them off or replace
them? usually the filter pads or cartridges will become clogged greatly reducing
the waterflow. the poop( enterels ) on the substrate will collect where ever
there is not a current of water this making the power filter useless if it
can't get the stuff moved and lifted to the
suction tube.

If you are using a fine substrate like sand with a powerfilter you are
asking for trouble as the sand particls will get sucked in and will wear any and
all moving parts greatly reducing the life span of the filter.
Also make sure to unplug the filter before doing waterchanges this will
prevent them from running dry and burning the motors up...

I have had a couple older model power filters over 5 years and they still
are working, if your are onlylasting 6 months then there has to be a reason.
The penguin brand ( marineland ) is one of the better companies.

Maybe a little more info is needed here.... like do you change the filter
cartridges,and or rinse them off every week? what kind of fish, and
substrate..



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
_www.ftas.net_ (http://www.ftas.net)





~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I change 25% of my water every week, test the PH twice a week, and I am
very careful not to overfead my fish as well as the tank. I also vacumm
the gravel every week, but I need a filter that is able to not only
keep the water clean, but can suck up the fish enterals that are on the
surface of the gravel.

Thank you.










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18467 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting for Neon Tetras
a green neon? never heard of it. can you send pic or a url that shows a green neon?

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I have some green neons in a tank with leached tea colored water
and fairly dark surroundings... lovely looking. I want to add a few
more to the school. They are very small so all you can currently
see from across the room is this neon colored stripe moving around!
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 12:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting for Neon Tetras

It might not be so much the particular lighting as it is the condition
of the fish and the habitat they have. For instance, a dark or black
substrate and a dark background with ordinary light will make those
neons stand out. Feeding them live foods will help bring out the color
as well.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of aclaar877
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 12:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting for Neon Tetras

Last week I visited the Florida aquarium in Tampa, and they had an
exhibit on home aquariums. The big display was a 25-30 foot long tank
with all kinds of freshwater fish, including a school of neon tetras.
I could not believe the bright, strong blue color. I had no idea the
fish could look this good. It was even deeper than the cardinal
tetras. I'm wondering what light bulbs or combination of bulbs can
enhance their color like this. I know water quality, feeding, and
school size are factors, but I'd like to know if any of you have
experimented with different lighting for these fish, and what
combinations of bulbs work best. I've gotten decent results mixing a
10,000K with a Coralife plant bulb, but nothing like these at the
Florida aquarium. I might write them and see what they have on this
big tank.

Andy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18468 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
_www-personal.umich.edu/www-personal.umich._
(http://www-personal.umich.edu/~wfink/neonpic.html)

_http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/images/thumbnails/jpg/tn_Pasim_u2.jpg_
(http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/images/thumbnails/jpg/tn_Pasim_u2.jpg)

_http://static.flickr.com/22/24221924_607537fc29_m.jpg_
(http://static.flickr.com/22/24221924_607537fc29_m.jpg)



In a message dated 9/4/2006 2:35:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@... writes:

green neon? never heard of it. can you send pic or a url that shows a green
neon?




Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18469 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
is this a new hybrid or painted fish?

FortWayneFish@... wrote:

_www-personal.umich.edu/www-personal.umich._
(http://www-personal.umich.edu/~wfink/neonpic.html)

_http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/images/thumbnails/jpg/tn_Pasim_u2.jpg_
(http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/images/thumbnails/jpg/tn_Pasim_u2.jpg)

_http://static.flickr.com/22/24221924_607537fc29_m.jpg_
(http://static.flickr.com/22/24221924_607537fc29_m.jpg)



In a message dated 9/4/2006 2:35:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@... writes:

green neon? never heard of it. can you send pic or a url that shows a green
neon?

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18470 From: wendie Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
Here's the small group that I have - 9 in all. I'm looking to get 6 more
for this tank.
It's a breeding tank for the L129 pleco.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/nashnut/neons1.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/nashnut/neons2.jpg


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/nashnut/neons3.jpg

Wendie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18471 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
No, it is an actual fish. The first photo has the names S. H. Weitzman
and W. L. Fink as photographers. I've heard of Fink, but don't know
anything about him, but Sam Weitzman I know personally, and what he says
a tetra is, it is. No ifs ands or buts about it. He is very well
respected in the field. _Paracheirodon simulans_ has, among other common
names, the common name of green neon.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 3:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras

is this a new hybrid or painted fish?

FortWayneFish@... wrote:

_www-personal.umich.edu/www-personal.umich._
(http://www-personal.umich.edu/~wfink/neonpic.html)

_http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/images/thumbnails/jpg/tn_Pasim_u2.jpg_
(http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/images/thumbnails/jpg/tn_Pasim_u2.jpg)

_http://static.flickr.com/22/24221924_607537fc29_m.jpg_
(http://static.flickr.com/22/24221924_607537fc29_m.jpg)



In a message dated 9/4/2006 2:35:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@... writes:

green neon? never heard of it. can you send pic or a url that shows a
green
neon?

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18472 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
no this is actually a valid species:

Paracheirodon simulans green neon tetra
Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi Black neon tetra
Paracheirodon innesi Neon tetra
Paracheirodon axelrodi


Cardinal tetra


Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net


In a message dated 9/4/2006 3:05:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrreid3rd1@... writes:




is this a new hybrid or painted fish?









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18473 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras
They look like regular neons to me--_Paracheirodon innesi_.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wendie
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 3:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ( GREEN NEONS ) was Lighting for Neon Tetras


Here's the small group that I have - 9 in all. I'm looking to get 6 more
for this tank.
It's a breeding tank for the L129 pleco.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/nashnut/neons1.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/nashnut/neons2.jpg


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/nashnut/neons3.jpg

Wendie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18474 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question
I can’t attest to durability (into fish since January), but I have canisters
on my large tanks and Millennium power filters on my smaller tanks. The
filters are capable of handling tanks twice as big, i.e. on the 10 gallon I
have a 20 gallon filter (Harry’s overfiltering). That will help keep fish
feces off the substrate, but there will still be some to vacuum during your
weekly water changes.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of monsterdealz
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 9:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter question



Hi, I am new to the group and I have a question regarding filters. I
have a 10 gallon tank and for the last several years I have been using
the Penquin brand filters. They work okay, but they don't seem to be
very durable. I am on my second one and it is just over a year old, and
it is not keeping the water as clear and clean as it did when it was
just a few months old, which leads me to believe that it is about to
break down.

I change 25% of my water every week, test the PH twice a week, and I am
very careful not to overfead my fish as well as the tank. I also vacumm
the gravel every week, but I need a filter that is able to not only
keep the water clean, but can suck up the fish enterals that are on the
surface of the gravel.

Thank you.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18475 From: mytiel123 Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: gouramis
I want to get two dwarf gouramis for my 32 gallon tank. Does anyone
know if there is any difference in the care level of the blue and the
sunset dwarfs?
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18476 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: gouramis
No, there should be no real difference. Why don't you look for the
natural colored dwarf gourami? Kept properly, they will outshine the
varieties.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of mytiel123
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 6:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] gouramis

I want to get two dwarf gouramis for my 32 gallon tank. Does anyone
know if there is any difference in the care level of the blue and the
sunset dwarfs?
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18477 From: jules27au Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Guppie Breeding
Hello,

Can anyone help out with advice on breeding guppies in a community
fish tank, which has gouramies, silver dollars, neons, a tetra, a
catfish, sharks, loach & tiger barbs?

Many thanks

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18478 From: mytiel123 Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: a question from a new member
RE: [AquaticLife] gouramis


No, there should be no real difference. Why don't you look for the
natural colored dwarf gourami? Kept properly, they will outshine the
varieties.


\\Steve



I will do that. Thanks Steve
Kerry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18479 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Guppie Breeding
Rather difficult to accomplish with all the other fish in there. They
may well breed, but you will see few, if any, young. To try to increase
your chances, you'll need a heavily planted tank, but the silver dollars
may make that a losing battle since they like a lot of veggies. You'll
need to use fine leaved plants for the best success in this situation.
Even so, you'll see little in the way of fry from each brood.

If you are really interested in raising guppies, you should do it in a
proper manner, with a large number of smaller tanks, and ruthless
culling for those fry that do not show what you want in them. They will
also do best in hard water, and your water may not be to their
particular liking for best results.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 9:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Guppie Breeding

Hello,

Can anyone help out with advice on breeding guppies in a community
fish tank, which has gouramies, silver dollars, neons, a tetra, a
catfish, sharks, loach & tiger barbs?

Many thanks

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18480 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Guppie Breeding
LIvebearing males are horny devils they are always trying to mate you just got to make sure they have a gonopodium.

jules27au <jules27au@...> wrote: Hello,

Can anyone help out with advice on breeding guppies in a community
fish tank, which has gouramies, silver dollars, neons, a tetra, a
catfish, sharks, loach & tiger barbs?

Many thanks

Jules






---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18481 From: Bill McCusker Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question
I change the catridge every two weeks, tonight I gave the filter a complete cleaning.

In the tank I have

2 Zebras
1 Neon
2 Femal Bettas
2 Gold Barbs
1 Plea

FortWayneFish@... wrote:


the point about the cartridge is valid do you rinse them off or replace
them? usually the filter pads or cartridges will become clogged greatly reducing
the waterflow. the poop( enterels ) on the substrate will collect where ever
there is not a current of water this making the power filter useless if it
can't get the stuff moved and lifted to the
suction tube.

If you are using a fine substrate like sand with a powerfilter you are
asking for trouble as the sand particls will get sucked in and will wear any and
all moving parts greatly reducing the life span of the filter.
Also make sure to unplug the filter before doing waterchanges this will
prevent them from running dry and burning the motors up...

I have had a couple older model power filters over 5 years and they still
are working, if your are onlylasting 6 months then there has to be a reason.
The penguin brand ( marineland ) is one of the better companies.

Maybe a little more info is needed here.... like do you change the filter
cartridges,and or rinse them off every week? what kind of fish, and
substrate..



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
_www.ftas.net_ (http://www.ftas.net)




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I change 25% of my water every week, test the PH twice a week, and I am
very careful not to overfead my fish as well as the tank. I also vacumm
the gravel every week, but I need a filter that is able to not only
keep the water clean, but can suck up the fish enterals that are on the
surface of the gravel.

Thank you.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18482 From: Bill McCusker Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Filter question
I usually change them every two weeks.

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: Do you change the cartridges at least once a month?

monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote: Hi, I am new to the group and I have a question regarding filters. I
have a 10 gallon tank and for the last several years I have been using
the Penquin brand filters. They work okay, but they don't seem to be
very durable. I am on my second one and it is just over a year old, and
it is not keeping the water as clear and clean as it did when it was
just a few months old, which leads me to believe that it is about to
break down.

I change 25% of my water every week, test the PH twice a week, and I am
very careful not to overfead my fish as well as the tank. I also vacumm
the gravel every week, but I need a filter that is able to not only
keep the water clean, but can suck up the fish enterals that are on the
surface of the gravel.

Thank you.


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18483 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Guppie Breeding
Heh..if you have a heavily planted tank with some nice floating
vegetation for the babies to hide in, I would suggest purchasing a
couple of angelfish to help thin out the population. Our guppies bred
faster than we could give them away, honestly.

> Hello,
>
> Can anyone help out with advice on breeding guppies in a community
> fish tank, which has gouramies, silver dollars, neons, a tetra, a
> catfish, sharks, loach & tiger barbs?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Jules
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18484 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/4/2006
Subject: Re: Lighting for Neon Tetras
A dark substrate and a black light really makes them pop
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18485 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
Steve, Just a quick thank you on the clarification of the date
discrepancy. I never realized there might be a somewhat significant
lapse in time before a paper might be actually published. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Often there is a difference in the accepted date and the published
date of an article. I don't have the article I referred to in front
of me, but the accepted date on the article was three issues of
Copeia prior to the published date. It may well have been a delay in
publication from the accepted date to the published date (maybe not a
full two years, but maybe it was published in January of 1959).
>
> I note that I misspelled quiet. Oh for a context checker as well
<g>.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 3:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi
Cichlids
>
> Steve, That's extremely odd that your article's reference dates
> Fryer's paper as 1959, not that it matters much, but the date may
> help in finding the piece if someone were to look for it. I have
it
> in front of me and it states on it "Accepted 8th October, 1957." I
> don't understand the discrepancy, but there must be a reason for
it.
>
> Anyhow, yeah I thought I saw something on this topic in one of the
> fairly recent Buntbarsche Bulletins. I made a fast check through
> half a dozen issues, but couldn't come up with anything, then
checked
> a few "Cichlidae Communique" bulletins to no avail. For those
> curious, the latter bulletin is a excellent publication of the
> Pacific Coast Cichlid Association, edited by Pam Chin who does a
bang-
> up job; < www.cichlidworld.com > -- not that I'm a PCCA member;
just
> happen to get the "Cichlidae Communique" as an exchange bulletin
> (w/NJAS).
>
> I sincerely like your reason for posting (LOL), its about as good a
> reason as any! Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Ray,
> >
> > The paper by Fryer is cited in the references of the article, but
> the date is listed as 1959. I've also seen other mentions of this
> kind of behavior in Rift Lake cichlids, but since I have never kept
> them, or had much interest in them, I'd probably have a bit of work
> ahead were I to try to find the articles. I'm sure I've seen
> something of this sort in the Buntbarsche Bulletin, but would
> probably not be able to place my hand son the correct copies for a
> bit. (For those curious, the Buntbarsche Bulletin is a publication
of
> the American Cichlid Association - http://www.cichlid.org.)
> >
> > The book you mention is not referenced by the article.
> >
> > I just finished reading the article the other day, and thought I
> would post it for a few reasons. First, algal growth can serve a
> purpose in an aquarium, and is not necessarily to be reviled.
Second
> that different fish have different manners of feeding although they
> can be found to live in the same area together. And third, as you
> have helped to point out, there are lots of places one can find
> information about fishes that they may be keeping or wish to keep.
> >
> > Also, the list is a bit quite this weekend, so I did not know
> whether anyone was paying any attention <G>.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 11:27 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi
> Cichlids
> >
> > Hi Steve, Similar information in an in-depth (no pun intended)
76
> > page paper written by Dr. Goeffrey Fryer in 1957 covers much of
> this
> > subject of Mbuna feeding habits, mouth structures, ect. This
paper
> > was sent to me by Peter Davies in the early 1970's when I was
> > importing Malawi fish from him.
> >
> > The rather long title (as many of these papers are) of this paper
> > is: "The Trophic Interrelationships and Ecology of some Littoral
> > Communities of Lake Nyasa with Especial Reference to the Fishes,
> and
> > a Discussion of the Evolution of a Group of Rock-Frequenting
> > Cichlidae." It was written at the time for Northern Rhodesia-
> > Nyassaland Joint Fisheries Research Organization and may be
> available
> > by writing East African Fisheries Research Organization, P.O. Box
> > 343, Jinja, Uganda.
> >
> > Much of this information is included in the book entitled "The
> > Cichlid Fishes of the Great Lakes of Africa -- (Their Biology and
> > Evolution)" by Geoffrey Fryer and T.D. Iles, which is long out of
> > print (1972) but may possibly be available on eBay or though on-
> line
> > bookstores such as < www.bookfinder4u.com >. I recommend this as
a
> > good read.
> >
> > I've recently read current articles of the same nature, dealing
> with
> > the interactions of various Mbuna living in the same biotope, but
> > after briefly looking I can't find where I saw this material. It
> > dealt with the different species of Mbuna and their varying
> dentition
> > allowing some species to go back over the same algae covered
areas
> > and comb the algae deeper, allowing them to get aufwuchs closer
to
> > the substrate (rock) than the previous species.
> >
> > As I recall, It was species such as Pseudotropheus elongatus
which
> > could take advantage of this situation after species such as
> > Labeotropheus had already browsed the same area, each getting the
> > nutrients they needed at different levels of the algae. It was
> > pointed out too that, depending upon the species and their needs,
> > while they did take in algae, many species used their teeth
> to "comb"
> > the algae removing just the foods (insect larvae, crustaceans,
> etc.)
> > they needed, leaving behind most of the algae. Will advise if I
> come
> > across this literature. Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > This is from _Copeia_ 2006(2), pp. 289-292 (full reference at
end
> > of post).
> > >
> > > A couple of fellows studied the feeding habits of certain rock
> > dwelling cichlids in Lake Malawi and one of the things they
looked
> at
> > was the angles at which they fed. If you are really interested,
> > you'll need to locate a copy of this publication and read the
full
> > article.
> > >
> > > They found that feeding habits did differ between the species
> > studied, and (surprise) the mouth structure had a bearing on the
> > feeding angle. Also, they found that the angle of the substrate
> they
> > fed upon differed between species. _Labeotropheus_ spp.,
> > _Melanochromis auratus_, _M. zebra_, _Petrotilapia_ c.f.
> _elongatus_
> > and _Tropheops tropheops_ spent at least 80% of the time feeding
> from
> > horizontal slopes. _Petrotilapia_ spp. Fed on vertical slopes 40%
> of
> > the time, slanted approximately 30% of the time, and horizontal
> > approximately 30% of the time. _Tropheus gracilior_ fed from
> vertical
> > slopes approximately 60% of the time.
> > >
> > > They found that there were four significantly different angle
> > groups. Feeding at an approximate 35° angle was _L. trewavasae_,
at
> > 44-48° _L. fullerborni_, _M. auratus_, and _P._ c.f. _elongatus_,
> at
> > 58.4° was _T. tropheops_, and at 84.2-90.2° were _Petrotilapia_
> spp.
> > _T. gracilior, and _M. zebra_. Angles were determined by the
> position
> > of the body relative to the substrate the fish was feeding upon.
> > >
> > > The authors found that these feeding behaviors held at various
> > sites in the lake.
> > >
> > > So, you might be asking yourself, if you have gotten this far,
> what
> > does this mean for me? A good question, should you have been
trying
> > to keep any of these fish and have been having a problem. All
these
> > fish are known as rock dwellers, living in and among the rocks of
> the
> > lake. This would mean that you have a lot of rocks in your tank
> (same
> > may think they are in your head, but that is another post). They
> feed
> > off various surface positions of the substrate--some from the
> > horizontal, some from the vertical, and some in between. The are
> > all "algae" feeders, living on the algal matter and
microorganisms
> > contained therein. This mixture of plant and animal material is
> often
> > defined as "aufwuchs". If zooplankton is sufficient in the water
> > column, these fish will utilize that as a food source, utilizing
> > their aufwuchs source as a secondary food source when the
> zooplankton
> > is not plentiful.
> > >
> > > Territorial disputes between the species are minimized because
> they
> > utilize different areas of the substrate to feed upon, which
means
> > that by a careful selection of fish, you can minimize
interspecies
> > disputes in your tank.
> > >
> > > Stauffer, Jr., Jay R. and Isa Possner. 2006. An Investigation
of
> > Feeding Angles Among Lake Malawi Rock-dwelling Cichlids
(Teleostei:
> > Cichlidae). Copeia 2006(2):289-292.
> > >
> > > Copeia is published by the American Society of Ichthyologists
and
> > Herpetologists and can be found in any science library. It is
> > probably available via an interlibrary loan from your local
> library.
> > An abstract of the article can be found at
> http://tinyurl.com/mgqed.
> > If you happen to be close enough to a university, visit their
> library
> > an make use of their resources. You'll find more interesting
things
> > available there than the copy of Copeia I have just mentioned.
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18486 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids
After posting that message yesterday, I started wondering whether the acceptance date is prior to peer review or post peer review. The review period can take quite some time depending on the availability of reviewers, their schedules and the complexity of the topic. I'm sure there are other factors that might influence the review period as well.

I am not a scientist, nor have I ever delved into the world of scientific publishing, other than to read the results, so this is only a guess. However, I have noticed varying time lags between the published date of acceptance and the actual published date in the literature.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 6:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi Cichlids

Steve, Just a quick thank you on the clarification of the date
discrepancy. I never realized there might be a somewhat significant
lapse in time before a paper might be actually published. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Often there is a difference in the accepted date and the published
date of an article. I don't have the article I referred to in front
of me, but the accepted date on the article was three issues of
Copeia prior to the published date. It may well have been a delay in
publication from the accepted date to the published date (maybe not a
full two years, but maybe it was published in January of 1959).
>
> I note that I misspelled quiet. Oh for a context checker as well
<g>.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 3:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi
Cichlids
>
> Steve, That's extremely odd that your article's reference dates
> Fryer's paper as 1959, not that it matters much, but the date may
> help in finding the piece if someone were to look for it. I have
it
> in front of me and it states on it "Accepted 8th October, 1957." I
> don't understand the discrepancy, but there must be a reason for
it.
>
> Anyhow, yeah I thought I saw something on this topic in one of the
> fairly recent Buntbarsche Bulletins. I made a fast check through
> half a dozen issues, but couldn't come up with anything, then
checked
> a few "Cichlidae Communique" bulletins to no avail. For those
> curious, the latter bulletin is a excellent publication of the
> Pacific Coast Cichlid Association, edited by Pam Chin who does a
bang-
> up job; < www.cichlidworld.com > -- not that I'm a PCCA member;
just
> happen to get the "Cichlidae Communique" as an exchange bulletin
> (w/NJAS).
>
> I sincerely like your reason for posting (LOL), its about as good a
> reason as any! Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Ray,
> >
> > The paper by Fryer is cited in the references of the article, but
> the date is listed as 1959. I've also seen other mentions of this
> kind of behavior in Rift Lake cichlids, but since I have never kept
> them, or had much interest in them, I'd probably have a bit of work
> ahead were I to try to find the articles. I'm sure I've seen
> something of this sort in the Buntbarsche Bulletin, but would
> probably not be able to place my hand son the correct copies for a
> bit. (For those curious, the Buntbarsche Bulletin is a publication
of
> the American Cichlid Association - http://www.cichlid.org.)
> >
> > The book you mention is not referenced by the article.
> >
> > I just finished reading the article the other day, and thought I
> would post it for a few reasons. First, algal growth can serve a
> purpose in an aquarium, and is not necessarily to be reviled.
Second
> that different fish have different manners of feeding although they
> can be found to live in the same area together. And third, as you
> have helped to point out, there are lots of places one can find
> information about fishes that they may be keeping or wish to keep.
> >
> > Also, the list is a bit quite this weekend, so I did not know
> whether anyone was paying any attention <G>.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 11:27 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Angles of Some Lake Malawi
> Cichlids
> >
> > Hi Steve, Similar information in an in-depth (no pun intended)
76
> > page paper written by Dr. Goeffrey Fryer in 1957 covers much of
> this
> > subject of Mbuna feeding habits, mouth structures, ect. This
paper
> > was sent to me by Peter Davies in the early 1970's when I was
> > importing Malawi fish from him.
> >
> > The rather long title (as many of these papers are) of this paper
> > is: "The Trophic Interrelationships and Ecology of some Littoral
> > Communities of Lake Nyasa with Especial Reference to the Fishes,
> and
> > a Discussion of the Evolution of a Group of Rock-Frequenting
> > Cichlidae." It was written at the time for Northern Rhodesia-
> > Nyassaland Joint Fisheries Research Organization and may be
> available
> > by writing East African Fisheries Research Organization, P.O. Box
> > 343, Jinja, Uganda.
> >
> > Much of this information is included in the book entitled "The
> > Cichlid Fishes of the Great Lakes of Africa -- (Their Biology and
> > Evolution)" by Geoffrey Fryer and T.D. Iles, which is long out of
> > print (1972) but may possibly be available on eBay or though on-
> line
> > bookstores such as < www.bookfinder4u.com >. I recommend this as
a
> > good read.
> >
> > I've recently read current articles of the same nature, dealing
> with
> > the interactions of various Mbuna living in the same biotope, but
> > after briefly looking I can't find where I saw this material. It
> > dealt with the different species of Mbuna and their varying
> dentition
> > allowing some species to go back over the same algae covered
areas
> > and comb the algae deeper, allowing them to get aufwuchs closer
to
> > the substrate (rock) than the previous species.
> >
> > As I recall, It was species such as Pseudotropheus elongatus
which
> > could take advantage of this situation after species such as
> > Labeotropheus had already browsed the same area, each getting the
> > nutrients they needed at different levels of the algae. It was
> > pointed out too that, depending upon the species and their needs,
> > while they did take in algae, many species used their teeth
> to "comb"
> > the algae removing just the foods (insect larvae, crustaceans,
> etc.)
> > they needed, leaving behind most of the algae. Will advise if I
> come
> > across this literature. Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > This is from _Copeia_ 2006(2), pp. 289-292 (full reference at
end
> > of post).
> > >
> > > A couple of fellows studied the feeding habits of certain rock
> > dwelling cichlids in Lake Malawi and one of the things they
looked
> at
> > was the angles at which they fed. If you are really interested,
> > you'll need to locate a copy of this publication and read the
full
> > article.
> > >
> > > They found that feeding habits did differ between the species
> > studied, and (surprise) the mouth structure had a bearing on the
> > feeding angle. Also, they found that the angle of the substrate
> they
> > fed upon differed between species. _Labeotropheus_ spp.,
> > _Melanochromis auratus_, _M. zebra_, _Petrotilapia_ c.f.
> _elongatus_
> > and _Tropheops tropheops_ spent at least 80% of the time feeding
> from
> > horizontal slopes. _Petrotilapia_ spp. Fed on vertical slopes 40%
> of
> > the time, slanted approximately 30% of the time, and horizontal
> > approximately 30% of the time. _Tropheus gracilior_ fed from
> vertical
> > slopes approximately 60% of the time.
> > >
> > > They found that there were four significantly different angle
> > groups. Feeding at an approximate 35° angle was _L. trewavasae_,
at
> > 44-48° _L. fullerborni_, _M. auratus_, and _P._ c.f. _elongatus_,
> at
> > 58.4° was _T. tropheops_, and at 84.2-90.2° were _Petrotilapia_
> spp.
> > _T. gracilior, and _M. zebra_. Angles were determined by the
> position
> > of the body relative to the substrate the fish was feeding upon.
> > >
> > > The authors found that these feeding behaviors held at various
> > sites in the lake.
> > >
> > > So, you might be asking yourself, if you have gotten this far,
> what
> > does this mean for me? A good question, should you have been
trying
> > to keep any of these fish and have been having a problem. All
these
> > fish are known as rock dwellers, living in and among the rocks of
> the
> > lake. This would mean that you have a lot of rocks in your tank
> (same
> > may think they are in your head, but that is another post). They
> feed
> > off various surface positions of the substrate--some from the
> > horizontal, some from the vertical, and some in between. The are
> > all "algae" feeders, living on the algal matter and
microorganisms
> > contained therein. This mixture of plant and animal material is
> often
> > defined as "aufwuchs". If zooplankton is sufficient in the water
> > column, these fish will utilize that as a food source, utilizing
> > their aufwuchs source as a secondary food source when the
> zooplankton
> > is not plentiful.
> > >
> > > Territorial disputes between the species are minimized because
> they
> > utilize different areas of the substrate to feed upon, which
means
> > that by a careful selection of fish, you can minimize
interspecies
> > disputes in your tank.
> > >
> > > Stauffer, Jr., Jay R. and Isa Possner. 2006. An Investigation
of
> > Feeding Angles Among Lake Malawi Rock-dwelling Cichlids
(Teleostei:
> > Cichlidae). Copeia 2006(2):289-292.
> > >
> > > Copeia is published by the American Society of Ichthyologists
and
> > Herpetologists and can be found in any science library. It is
> > probably available via an interlibrary loan from your local
> library.
> > An abstract of the article can be found at
> http://tinyurl.com/mgqed.
> > If you happen to be close enough to a university, visit their
> library
> > an make use of their resources. You'll find more interesting
things
> > available there than the copy of Copeia I have just mentioned.
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18487 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
In the August 2006 issue of Aquarium fish Magazine, there is an article
titled "Minis and Monsters" by Mary Sweeney that has a brief discussion
of mini tanks such as yours. You may wish to look that article up if you
can access that issue.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 7:15 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question

I bought a small flat heater and plan to use it in the eclipse 3 w/ live
plants and a few neons.
(http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087&rel
=1> &rel=1)
I didn't realize it wasn't adjustable and that it simply keeps the water
a few degrees higher than the room temp. Is this a good idea? It
doesn't usually get over 76 in our home, but it does vary especially in
the summer when it can be up to 81 in here! It says to unplug it when
this happens but that seems unstable and I don't want it to affect my
fish or plants.

Any ideas? And if this isn't a good heater, which one should I get for
such a small tank?

Also, I'm looking at substrate for the same setup. Which should I buy
for live plants? Again, I'm looking at getting this from Fosters and
Smith.

Thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18488 From: Jennifer Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Water change
Hello all,

Yesterday I did a 10% water change being that it was the one week mark
since I have had the fish and it just was not enough. The water still
looked murky so, a few minutes later I did like an 80% water change
and the water is still a little cloudy with fish debris? I did not
clean the gravel using the gravel vacuum. Should I have? I mean do I
need to use the vacuum every time I do a water change? What is best
weekly just a 10% water change or more?


2 Black Moors
1 Sarassa Comet
1 Baby Plecostomus ( just an inch long )
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18489 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
Thank you Steve. I'll certainly try to get it.

As far as plant substrate, any suggestions?
L

<http://www.zainyzebra.com/>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 6:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question



In the August 2006 issue of Aquarium fish Magazine, there is an article
titled "Minis and Monsters" by Mary Sweeney that has a brief discussion
of mini tanks such as yours. You may wish to look that article up if you
can access that issue.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 7:15 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question

I bought a small flat heater and plan to use it in the eclipse 3 w/ live
plants and a few neons.
(http://www.drsfoste
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087>
rsmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087
<http://www.drsfoste
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087&rel
> rsmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087&rel
=1> &rel=1)
I didn't realize it wasn't adjustable and that it simply keeps the water
a few degrees higher than the room temp. Is this a good idea? It
doesn't usually get over 76 in our home, but it does vary especially in
the summer when it can be up to 81 in here! It says to unplug it when
this happens but that seems unstable and I don't want it to affect my
fish or plants.

Any ideas? And if this isn't a good heater, which one should I get for
such a small tank?

Also, I'm looking at substrate for the same setup. Which should I buy
for live plants? Again, I'm looking at getting this from Fosters and
Smith.

Thanks!
Leslie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18490 From: tartintaff@aol.com Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: gouramis
i have had in the past both types and found them to be quite easy and happy
with any water i even had eggs off the sunsets


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18491 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Pop eye & septicemia
One of my giant danios got pop eye yesterday.
I tested the water, ammonia & nitrites at 0, nitrates 40, pH 6.2 (way
too low as it's usually 7.2) and 80ppm alkalinity, also too low.
I did a 25% water change and plan on doing another today.

But this morning the same danio now has the reddening of the fins at
their base and his tail fins are reddening as well.
Is this combination usual? I've not experienced it before and I'm not
sure how to treat it.

I can quarantine him tomorrow but I don't have a spare filter right now
to stick on the hospital tank. I have one cycling and will have been on
a cycled tank for 48 hours when I move it. Is that enough time?

~L


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18492 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pop eye & septicemia
One problem caused by poor water quality is often followed by others as
the fish' ability to fight of problems decreases with every new
stress. I'd start using salt water baths and medicate the quarantined
fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18493 From: Jennifer Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Aquarium cycle
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18494 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: compatibility with mollies
Right now my tank has mollies, a rubber nose pleco, and an angelicus loach.

What other species (if any) might be compatible? Gouramis? Plattys? Other fish?

Thanks,
Mel


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18495 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Part of the answer depends on exactly what you mean by "transferring
the fish." If you mean adding a few expendable fish to help in
cycling the tank , then no, 3 days is not too long although the tank
will be far from being cycled -- your few expendable fish will be
helping this process from the time you put them in -- and they may
die of ammonia poisoning in the process.

If you're asking what the normal length of time is before you can
start transferring (a few at a time) a normal tankful of fish then,
unless you will be using BioSpira to jump start the cycle, the
question should be -- "is six weeks too long?" . . . and the answer
again would be NO as this is about the average time it takes to cycle
a tank, sometimes a week or two sooner but four week's time is very
rare. Ray

>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18496 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Thank you Ray. I guess I will just continue to let the tank run as if there are fish in it, and I will go to the petstore to buy a few of those what they call feeder fish and add them to the tank.

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Part of the answer depends on exactly what you mean by "transferring
the fish." If you mean adding a few expendable fish to help in
cycling the tank , then no, 3 days is not too long although the tank
will be far from being cycled -- your few expendable fish will be
helping this process from the time you put them in -- and they may
die of ammonia poisoning in the process.

If you're asking what the normal length of time is before you can
start transferring (a few at a time) a normal tankful of fish then,
unless you will be using BioSpira to jump start the cycle, the
question should be -- "is six weeks too long?" . . . and the answer
again would be NO as this is about the average time it takes to cycle
a tank, sometimes a week or two sooner but four week's time is very
rare. Ray

>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?
>






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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18497 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Water change
First off only feed them once every other day a small pinch. You should only do 10% once a week. You doing 80% is whats not helping the tank get established. Everytime you do a water change use the gravel cleaner. You arent helping but doing 80% or not useing the gravel cleaner. The fish waste goes to the bottom of the tank to the gravel so you need the gravel cleaner to pick it up. What type of filter do you have? Now as for cloudyness what color is it? If its green thats algae and you need to do something to help get rid of that but first I need to know what type of filter it is. Now how old is this tank. If its only a week then thats whats called a NEW TANK syndrom. That is a bacterial surge that you need to get the tank established. All new tanks do that till it gets setted in. By doing the 90% water change you are now starting all over dont do anymore until a week and only 10% or youll never get an established tank. There is a cycle in the tank that needs to
established and the cloudyness is part of it and it will go away in a couple of weeks. Feed like i said and dont add anymore fish and test your water weekly for Ph, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates before the water change and this would help to determine where your tank is for establishing itself. Wait a week do a 10% water change with the gravel cleaner. Dont take any more otherwise its just like starting the tank all over again. You need to have some patience to get it to where it needs to be it may take a week or two or more to get it looking cleaning. Anymore questions dont be afraid to post. Now how big is this tank?

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hello all,

Yesterday I did a 10% water change being that it was the one week mark
since I have had the fish and it just was not enough. The water still
looked murky so, a few minutes later I did like an 80% water change
and the water is still a little cloudy with fish debris? I did not
clean the gravel using the gravel vacuum. Should I have? I mean do I
need to use the vacuum every time I do a water change? What is best
weekly just a 10% water change or more?

2 Black Moors
1 Sarassa Comet
1 Baby Plecostomus ( just an inch long )






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18498 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pop eye & septicemia
How ofted do you do water changes and how much? Have you ever thought of live plants or clams to soak up the Nitrates. Have you tested the water in the other tank for all you test for? just watch the ph changes accumate him slowly if it is higher than the main tank. If you need help with figureing how to do that get back. It sounds like he may of just gotten an infection.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: One of my giant danios got pop eye yesterday.
I tested the water, ammonia & nitrites at 0, nitrates 40, pH 6.2 (way
too low as it's usually 7.2) and 80ppm alkalinity, also too low.
I did a 25% water change and plan on doing another today.

But this morning the same danio now has the reddening of the fins at
their base and his tail fins are reddening as well.
Is this combination usual? I've not experienced it before and I'm not
sure how to treat it.

I can quarantine him tomorrow but I don't have a spare filter right now
to stick on the hospital tank. I have one cycling and will have been on
a cycled tank for 48 hours when I move it. Is that enough time?

~L

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18499 From: Hope Livingston Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Pink Tip Anemone question....
We're having a problem with our anemone..He's at the
LFS now as we thought it had something to do with our
water..Even tho everything reads fine..
He is shriveling up..Then he will go back to normal
and act just fine..He's doing it at the LFS too..
Is this normal with them??

Hope,

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18500 From: Jennifer Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Goldfish
I was just wondering out of shear curiosity can you put a Betta with
Goldfish? Sorry if these questions are out of place but I am new to
this fish keeping saga.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18501 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
a cycle can take weeks. are you transferring fish into a bigger tank.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18502 From: chris topher Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
: )

fish dont always die in the cycling process...

pick something you like and often most will make it
through, depending on what you pick that is...

i still have the six head and tail lights i chose to
cycle my 55...

i will on occasion use feeder guppies and then fish
them out to feed to the turtles and cichlids...

woody



--- Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote:

> Thank you Ray. I guess I will just continue to let
> the tank run as if there are fish in it, and I will
> go to the petstore to buy a few of those what they
> call feeder fish and add them to the tank.
>
> Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
> Part of the answer depends on exactly what you mean
> by "transferring
> the fish." If you mean adding a few expendable fish
> to help in
> cycling the tank , then no, 3 days is not too long
> although the tank
> will be far from being cycled -- your few expendable
> fish will be
> helping this process from the time you put them in
> -- and they may
> die of ammonia poisoning in the process.
>
> If you're asking what the normal length of time is
> before you can
> start transferring (a few at a time) a normal
> tankful of fish then,
> unless you will be using BioSpira to jump start the
> cycle, the
> question should be -- "is six weeks too long?" . . .
> and the answer
> again would be NO as this is about the average time
> it takes to cycle
> a tank, sometimes a week or two sooner but four
> week's time is very
> rare. Ray
>
> >
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> > I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> that an aquarium
> > should cycle before transferring the fish? Is
> three days too long?
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
> An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18503 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pink Tip Anemone question....
Yes Hope, anemones do that. They go way down when the lights are off, and expand when the lights are on. :)
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 4:48 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Pink Tip Anemone question....




We're having a problem with our anemone..He's at the
LFS now as we thought it had something to do with our
water..Even tho everything reads fine..
He is shriveling up..Then he will go back to normal
and act just fine..He's doing it at the LFS too..
Is this normal with them??

Hope,

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18504 From: monsterdealz Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Hi,

Has anyone ever used or are they using this system now? I like the idea
of having the filter built into the hood to save space, but I'm
wondering how well it works.

Thanks,

Bill
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18505 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: compatibility with mollies
those ones you said are also bigger tetra, barbs, rasboras, sharks depending what size tank you have. Just so you know Mollies are semi aggresive so no small tetras and guppies.

Mel Bowman <swismiself@...> wrote: Right now my tank has mollies, a rubber nose pleco, and an angelicus loach.

What other species (if any) might be compatible? Gouramis? Plattys? Other fish?

Thanks,
Mel


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18506 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question
I'd probably use a darkish substrate of #2 gravel mixed with a bit of
laterite (sp?). You really do not have the depth for pots. Smallest
display tank I've ever done was a 5 gallon, so this should be similar. I
had a pair of dwarf gouramis (natural coloration), a few zebra danios, a
couple of harlequin rasbora and a couple of small corys. I don't recall
which of the corys they were, and my ex-wife destroyed all my notes from
that period.

It was a busy tank until the gouramis came out and then everyone else
would disappear into the plants, except the corys, until the gouramis
retired.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question

Thank you Steve. I'll certainly try to get it.

As far as plant substrate, any suggestions?
L

<http://www.zainyzebra.com/>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 6:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question



In the August 2006 issue of Aquarium fish Magazine, there is an article
titled "Minis and Monsters" by Mary Sweeney that has a brief discussion
of mini tanks such as yours. You may wish to look that article up if you
can access that issue.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 7:15 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heater for Eclipse 3 & substrate question

I bought a small flat heater and plan to use it in the eclipse 3 w/ live
plants and a few neons.
(http://www.drsfoste
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087>
rsmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087
<http://www.drsfoste
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087&rel
> rsmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12087&rel
=1> &rel=1)
I didn't realize it wasn't adjustable and that it simply keeps the water
a few degrees higher than the room temp. Is this a good idea? It
doesn't usually get over 76 in our home, but it does vary especially in
the summer when it can be up to 81 in here! It says to unplug it when
this happens but that seems unstable and I don't want it to affect my
fish or plants.

Any ideas? And if this isn't a good heater, which one should I get for
such a small tank?

Also, I'm looking at substrate for the same setup. Which should I buy
for live plants? Again, I'm looking at getting this from Fosters and
Smith.

Thanks!
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18507 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish
They really arent good together. The goldfish are messy and it would nip at the fins.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: I was just wondering out of shear curiosity can you put a Betta with
Goldfish? Sorry if these questions are out of place but I am new to
this fish keeping saga.






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18508 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Water change
The water was murky prior to your water change? How was it murky? Was it
a whitish grey color or a greenish color, or something else entirely?

I don't know what size your tank is, but 10% should be a good starting
point for changing water. I do up to 25% depending on the tank and the
fish (for instance, when I was keeping _Julidochromis transcriptus_, I
needed to do minimal water changes, less than 10%, because they are
rather "allergic" to fresh water). You should vacuum the gravel while
doing the change. I normally vacuum 1/4 to 1/3 the substrate with each
water change.

Goldfish are "dirty" fish. They produce more waste than most. You should
be considering a 25% water change at least weekly. Vacuum all the loose
matter off the substrate, then try to get at least a third of the
substrate with the vacuum.

You should consider removing the pleco from the tank. The pleco is more
a tropical fish, and would like a faster current than the goldfish. You
should be feed all a diet high in vegetable matter. There probably will
not be much algae for the pleco to eat. The temperature of the tank will
probably be below or at the low end of the pleco's range. Higher
temperature will place more of a stress on the goldfish, and they will
produce more waste. You probably do not need a pleco or any kind of
catfish in the tank with the goldfish. The gold fish will do a good job
of sifting through the gravel on their own.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 7:50 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water change

Hello all,

Yesterday I did a 10% water change being that it was the one week mark
since I have had the fish and it just was not enough. The water still
looked murky so, a few minutes later I did like an 80% water change
and the water is still a little cloudy with fish debris? I did not
clean the gravel using the gravel vacuum. Should I have? I mean do I
need to use the vacuum every time I do a water change? What is best
weekly just a 10% water change or more?


2 Black Moors
1 Sarassa Comet
1 Baby Plecostomus ( just an inch long )
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18509 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
For a tank to cycle will take between 4 and 8 weeks. Using gravel or a sponge filter from an established tank will help this come up on the shorter end of the cycle.

You can cycle a tank without fish--I presume the new tank is for your goldfish. To cycle without fish, you need to find some plain ammonia--no detergent and/or scent added. Add enough of the ammonia to get a reading of 5 ppm on your test kit. Each day, add enough to bring the ammonia reading back up to 5. When the ammonia is being consumed from one day to the next, start checking your nitrite levels. When this reading reaches zero, stop adding the ammonia and add your fish. You may get a brief ammonia spike after the fish are added, but this should dissipate pretty quickly.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 2:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18510 From: Hope Livingston Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pink Tip Anemone question....
Our lights were on..But our lights aren't extremely
powerful..So you reckon he's okay then??

Hope,

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Yes Hope, anemones do that. They go way down when
> the lights are off, and expand when the lights are
> on. :)
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18511 From: harry perry Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2 weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't. It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry





Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18512 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pink Tip Anemone question....
They do normally go in and out like that.

Hope Livingston <wildkids3@...> wrote: Our lights were on..But our lights aren't extremely
powerful..So you reckon he's okay then??

Hope,

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Yes Hope, anemones do that. They go way down when
> the lights are off, and expand when the lights are
> on. :)
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com

__________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18513 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Are you talking about ammonia you clean your floors with?

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: For a tank to cycle will take between 4 and 8 weeks. Using gravel or a sponge filter from an established tank will help this come up on the shorter end of the cycle.

You can cycle a tank without fish--I presume the new tank is for your goldfish. To cycle without fish, you need to find some plain ammonia--no detergent and/or scent added. Add enough of the ammonia to get a reading of 5 ppm on your test kit. Each day, add enough to bring the ammonia reading back up to 5. When the ammonia is being consumed from one day to the next, start checking your nitrite levels. When this reading reaches zero, stop adding the ammonia and add your fish. You may get a brief ammonia spike after the fish are added, but this should dissipate pretty quickly.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 2:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18514 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Pink Tip Anemone question....
Hope, can you tell me how many watts per gallon you have?
Most inverts need at least 3 watts per gallon, and most anemone need more. :)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Pink Tip Anemone question....


Our lights were on..But our lights aren't extremely
powerful..So you reckon he's okay then??

Hope,

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Yes Hope, anemones do that. They go way down when
> the lights are off, and expand when the lights are
> on. :)
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18515 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish
Goldfish are best kept with goldfish. "Tropical fish" are best kept with same. I have mentioned some of the problems you may face in an earlier post to you on another subject.

As for your question specifically:

Goldfish: Temperature range 60-70°F.
Betta: 74-80+°F

Goldfish: primarily vegetarian.
Betta: primarily carnivore.

Already, you can see that these fish have widely divergent needs.

Keeping goldfish is fun and interesting as is keeping other types of fish. If you would like to keep tropicals as well, you will need to get a tank or two for the tropicals and keep them separately from the goldfish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 5:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Goldfish

I was just wondering out of shear curiosity can you put a Betta with
Goldfish? Sorry if these questions are out of place but I am new to
this fish keeping saga.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18516 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry





Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18517 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
What a jerk you are Jerry ! you just sent a letter of disater!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: harry perry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer


I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2 weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't. It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?





Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18518 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
HEAR, HEAR Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer


Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18519 From: harry perry Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve
As a moderator here I have read your posts over the years and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable member of this group. Your post was right on target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods are the right way? How do you know? My methods are based on experience also. I am well aware of the nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of several groups I am also aware that beginners will be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8 weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the experience to know this is not necessary. What are you thoughts on this. I totally respect your opinion.

Harry


Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: HEAR, HEAR Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18520 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 9/5/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve
Personally, I have several tanks that I don't think a tank has sat empty other than while waiting for a place to put it or patching a drilled tank that I got as a "good deal".

Haven't done the let the tank cycle either, don't add anything but on rare occassion when a discus looks / acts stressed. Have kept fish for right around 35 years now which started long ago with guppies thus progressed to the fish I keep now.

It's amazing how many give up on their tanks in the beginning stages due to ill gotten knowledge, bad mix of residents, fish that are just going to be too big for that 10g they were told would be just fine, etc.... its great that these forums are out and accessible maybe less will give up before they get the true enjoyment of their aquatic enviroment.

Shannon___



---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18521 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve
I was one of those who, at 16 (many years ago) abandoned the hobby because I
couldn’t get the fish to live or the tank to stay clean (I scrubbed
everything every month). I, for one, was THRILLED to read about the cycle
and beneficial bacteria when I researched the hobby again last year. Here
was the reason for my problems, and here was an easy obstacle to overcome.
Been having great success since January…I have 4 tanks, baby Demasoni, and I
just started a 125 gallon!



So thanks, Harry, for giving us options. And thanks, Steve and Sissy (and
Ray) for helping us to understand beneficial bacteria…it made a huge
difference for me!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 12:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve



As a moderator here I have read your posts over the years and I feel You
have helped a lot of folks. I appreciate that. I consider you to be a
valuable member of this group. Your post was right on target.Helping
beginners. Are you sure your methods are the right way? How do you know? My
methods are based on experience also. I am well aware of the nitrogen cycle
and how it works. Being the owner of several groups I am also aware that
beginners will be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8 weeks for a
tank to cycle you and I both have the experience to know this is not
necessary. What are you thoughts on this. I totally respect your opinion.

Harry


Sissy Sathre <ssathre@cox. <mailto:ssathre%40cox.net> net> wrote: HEAR, HEAR
Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttan
<http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php.> kguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_ <mailto:greeniguana_12%40yahoo.com> 12@...>
wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small
Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18522 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
I completely agree with Steve. Too many problems posted on these groups
are a result of too much too fast. They set it up thinking everything
is fine, then BAM everything goes nuts and they're baffled to say the
least.
Wait out the cycle if you're a newby, or use BioSpira. But don't rush
it if you haven't done it before. The risk is pretty high.

And for what it's worth, I HIGHLY value the opinions and experiences of
many people on here. I have never thought them to Google for anything
other than maybe a link to help someone out (or to find an ingredient
not printed on something.)

You figure out quite fast who is in the know and who is kind of a flake.
=)

~Happy fish keeping!
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer



Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttan
<http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php.> kguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_ <mailto:greeniguana_12%40yahoo.com> 12@...>
wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18523 From: Hope Livingston Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
I don't usually nose in other's discussion's..But as a
newby on the whole saltwater thing..
If it had not been for this group helping us..My hubby
woulda threw the aquarium out the door a few weeks
ago..
I think you've been very helpful to me..

Steve, Sissy and Joseph..Thank you for your help..
I'm sure we will have many more questions and I know I
can count on you..

Hope,

I, for one, would
> like them to be
> successful from the word go so they may be around in
> 50 years helping
> those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> the outset, and the
> person is lost to the hobby forever.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18524 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
I like using Bio Spira. Every now and then I'll get a batch that doesn't
work,
but on the whole I find it excellent. I've moved plecos, loaches and others
within
hours of setting up a tank without a problem. I do monitor the tank
carefully and
if necessary add some prime. If that doesn't work, I follow up with more
Bio Spira.
I keep some on hand at all times. I also try to seed a tank if possible
with either
old gravel, a filter, decorations and even water. The last tank I seeded,
didn't take
so I had to use another shot of Bio Spira. Most of the time, one shot of
Bio Spira
works without a problem. Feed the fish carefully and do not overfeed as
that is part of the cause.

I currently have 10 tanks running in various sizes and had been breeding
bettas. I
have now switched to trying to breed plecos and loaches. Having been in the
hobby
since the '50's I've pretty much bred all the common guys - angels,
gouramis, catfish,
live bearers, etc.

Back when I started, I'd go to the beach, gather some beach sand and rocks,
return
home and boil them. Into the tank they went along with the water. The fish
were generally
added the next day. I topped the tanks weekly and happily watched the fish
breed like
rabbits. Angels every two weeks, gouramis when you put them together, etc.
The fish
lived for years... my cats were 10 and 13, my oscar was 10 and huge, etc.
The only
problems you ran into were ick, wasting and faulty equipment.

Wendie








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18525 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Bioballs
I was wondering if anyone has used bioballs in their filters? Are they worth the moola or a big waste of money?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18526 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
I started my first aquariums in 1960 and I'm still setting up aquariums today for a living. There was no Google then and not many people in the LFS knew anything about fish, I had to learn by experance and books. Being in this hobby for many ,many years, I have over 400 books. You never know it all, I learn something new almost everyday, on the wonderful world of fishies and invertbrates. :) The people in my town all know me as the fish lady, and my grandkids call me grandma fishie. LOL
I volunteer to teach children at the museum of the SW, we have freshwater, saltwater, and a touch tank(salt). The kids love it and explore all the wonderful creations God as made that live in the waters of the world.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 7:40 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer


I completely agree with Steve. Too many problems posted on these groups
are a result of too much too fast. They set it up thinking everything
is fine, then BAM everything goes nuts and they're baffled to say the
least.
Wait out the cycle if you're a newby, or use BioSpira. But don't rush
it if you haven't done it before. The risk is pretty high.

And for what it's worth, I HIGHLY value the opinions and experiences of
many people on here. I have never thought them to Google for anything
other than maybe a link to help someone out (or to find an ingredient
not printed on something.)

You figure out quite fast who is in the know and who is kind of a flake.
=)

~Happy fish keeping!
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttan
<http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php.> kguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_ <mailto:greeniguana_12%40yahoo.com> 12@...>
wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18527 From: chris topher Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
my personal technique:

set up tank, decorations, plants, let it sit over
night...

buy a few fish the next day, sometimes teras,
sometimes live bearers, occasionally feeder guppies...

watch them for a month, replace if necessary, then add
a few more, wait about another month then add bottom
dwellers...

nice thing about feeder guppies for cycling is that
they do a great job of replacing themselves...

other than occasional ich not much problems...

dont like using chemicals in the aquariums any more
than in the garden....

as someone else pointed out i lost interest as a
teenager because mom had us do the whole breakdown,
scrub, refill, chemical thing...wasnt much fun...

now i have 8, once got up to 12, with a kmart kiddie
pool in the garage for raising live bearer babies to
sell back to the LFS, all heavily planted with the
exception of the cichlid tanks, little buggers are
just too hard on plants...

some really great advice on here, i enjoy reading most
of the posts...

woody



--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> a cycle can take weeks. are you transferring fish
> into a bigger tank.
>
> Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three
> days too long?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check
> it out.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18528 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
You are VERY welcome ! Hope
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Livingston
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:02 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer


I don't usually nose in other's discussion's..But as a
newby on the whole saltwater thing..
If it had not been for this group helping us..My hubby
woulda threw the aquarium out the door a few weeks
ago..
I think you've been very helpful to me..

Steve, Sissy and Joseph..Thank you for your help..
I'm sure we will have many more questions and I know I
can count on you..

Hope,

I, for one, would
> like them to be
> successful from the word go so they may be around in
> 50 years helping
> those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> the outset, and the
> person is lost to the hobby forever.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18529 From: chris topher Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18530 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Wendy I agree Bio Spira is a GREAT product by Marinland, But it can not get warm, when Marinland shipps it to me they overnight it packed in ice. When it dont work for you, it's probably cause it got too warm some where before you bought it. I set up instant aquariums, fresh and salt all thr time using existing bacteria from my fish rooms tanks. I use a scoop of gravel or (salt) sand, live rock (salt), live plants(both) and used water (both) and established bio wheels. I am able to skip the cycle this way. I stock the aquarium with 2" of fish per 10 gals., then feed only ounce everyother day for 2 weeks, and then check the water, if no ammonias or nitrats, we add more fish and go to feeding everyday. Over feeding is usually the problem I have with my new clients, and new tank syndrome, if any. If they feed properly ( all food is eaten in 3 min), we dont have any peoblems.
I raise seahorses and several kinds of clown fish, gobys and shrimp at the moment, I have reised just about every kind of freshwater, so now I'm working on salt. I love this hobby, so much still to learn :)
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:07 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle


I like using Bio Spira. Every now and then I'll get a batch that doesn't
work,
but on the whole I find it excellent. I've moved plecos, loaches and others
within
hours of setting up a tank without a problem. I do monitor the tank
carefully and
if necessary add some prime. If that doesn't work, I follow up with more
Bio Spira.
I keep some on hand at all times. I also try to seed a tank if possible
with either
old gravel, a filter, decorations and even water. The last tank I seeded,
didn't take
so I had to use another shot of Bio Spira. Most of the time, one shot of
Bio Spira
works without a problem. Feed the fish carefully and do not overfeed as
that is part of the cause.

I currently have 10 tanks running in various sizes and had been breeding
bettas. I
have now switched to trying to breed plecos and loaches. Having been in the
hobby
since the '50's I've pretty much bred all the common guys - angels,
gouramis, catfish,
live bearers, etc.

Back when I started, I'd go to the beach, gather some beach sand and rocks,
return
home and boil them. Into the tank they went along with the water. The fish
were generally
added the next day. I topped the tanks weekly and happily watched the fish
breed like
rabbits. Angels every two weeks, gouramis when you put them together, etc.
The fish
lived for years... my cats were 10 and 13, my oscar was 10 and huge, etc.
The only
problems you ran into were ick, wasting and faulty equipment.

Wendie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18531 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Bioballs
Bio balls are for wet/dry filters mostly, are you using a wet/dry filter? I dont used them any more, they cause too much Nitrate.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: The Dragon Hunter
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 7:30 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bioballs


I was wondering if anyone has used bioballs in their filters? Are they worth the moola or a big waste of money?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18532 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
I have it shipped out too as no one around here even knows what it is.
Most of the time it comes fairly cool but there has been a time or two
where it's been hot to the touch and I think that's when the batch fails.

Boy back in the 50's I think I must have had about 60 fish in a 20 gallon
long tank. There was never any thought given to having too many fish
in a tank. I used to trade in the babies for supplies so things were great
and not as expensive.

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle


Wendy I agree Bio Spira is a GREAT product by Marinland, But it can not
get warm, when Marinland shipps it to me they overnight it packed in ice.
When it dont work for you, it's probably cause it got too warm some where
before you bought it. I set up instant aquariums, fresh and salt all thr
time using existing bacteria from my fish rooms tanks. I use a scoop of
gravel or (salt) sand, live rock (salt), live plants(both) and used water
(both) and established bio wheels. I am able to skip the cycle this way. I
stock the aquarium with 2" of fish per 10 gals., then feed only ounce
everyother day for 2 weeks, and then check the water, if no ammonias or
nitrats, we add more fish and go to feeding everyday. Over feeding is
usually the problem I have with my new clients, and new tank syndrome, if
any. If they feed properly ( all food is eaten in 3 min), we dont have any
peoblems.
I raise seahorses and several kinds of clown fish, gobys and shrimp at the
moment, I have reised just about every kind of freshwater, so now I'm
working on salt. I love this hobby, so much still to learn :)
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:07 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

I like using Bio Spira. Every now and then I'll get a batch that doesn't
work,
but on the whole I find it excellent. I've moved plecos, loaches and
others
within
hours of setting up a tank without a problem. I do monitor the tank
carefully and
if necessary add some prime. If that doesn't work, I follow up with more
Bio Spira.
I keep some on hand at all times. I also try to seed a tank if possible
with either
old gravel, a filter, decorations and even water. The last tank I seeded,
didn't take
so I had to use another shot of Bio Spira. Most of the time, one shot of
Bio Spira
works without a problem. Feed the fish carefully and do not overfeed as
that is part of the cause.

I currently have 10 tanks running in various sizes and had been breeding
bettas. I
have now switched to trying to breed plecos and loaches. Having been in
the
hobby
since the '50's I've pretty much bred all the common guys - angels,
gouramis, catfish,
live bearers, etc.

Back when I started, I'd go to the beach, gather some beach sand and
rocks,
return
home and boil them. Into the tank they went along with the water. The fish
were generally
added the next day. I topped the tanks weekly and happily watched the fish
breed like
rabbits. Angels every two weeks, gouramis when you put them together, etc.
The fish
lived for years... my cats were 10 and 13, my oscar was 10 and huge, etc.
The only
problems you ran into were ick, wasting and faulty equipment.

Wendie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18533 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the bedroom for a few small loaches (Q), a
pleco (Q)
and some female bettas. I've had no problems up until now. I find that
although the
filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn. Everything has been
taken apart
and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still there. I'm seriously
thinking of keeping
that system going but adding an internal fluval. The tank has been running
for about
two years now.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18534 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
I have a client with a 20 gal. tank , they have fancy guppies in it. Yesterday I went to clean it...........LOL
It is wall to wall guppies, I never seen so many fish in a 20 gal tank.They have marbels in the bottom, I cound not gravel vac without sucking up fish LOL
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:27 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle


I have it shipped out too as no one around here even knows what it is.
Most of the time it comes fairly cool but there has been a time or two
where it's been hot to the touch and I think that's when the batch fails.

Boy back in the 50's I think I must have had about 60 fish in a 20 gallon
long tank. There was never any thought given to having too many fish
in a tank. I used to trade in the babies for supplies so things were great
and not as expensive.

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

Wendy I agree Bio Spira is a GREAT product by Marinland, But it can not
get warm, when Marinland shipps it to me they overnight it packed in ice.
When it dont work for you, it's probably cause it got too warm some where
before you bought it. I set up instant aquariums, fresh and salt all thr
time using existing bacteria from my fish rooms tanks. I use a scoop of
gravel or (salt) sand, live rock (salt), live plants(both) and used water
(both) and established bio wheels. I am able to skip the cycle this way. I
stock the aquarium with 2" of fish per 10 gals., then feed only ounce
everyother day for 2 weeks, and then check the water, if no ammonias or
nitrats, we add more fish and go to feeding everyday. Over feeding is
usually the problem I have with my new clients, and new tank syndrome, if
any. If they feed properly ( all food is eaten in 3 min), we dont have any
peoblems.
I raise seahorses and several kinds of clown fish, gobys and shrimp at the
moment, I have reised just about every kind of freshwater, so now I'm
working on salt. I love this hobby, so much still to learn :)
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:07 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

I like using Bio Spira. Every now and then I'll get a batch that doesn't
work,
but on the whole I find it excellent. I've moved plecos, loaches and
others
within
hours of setting up a tank without a problem. I do monitor the tank
carefully and
if necessary add some prime. If that doesn't work, I follow up with more
Bio Spira.
I keep some on hand at all times. I also try to seed a tank if possible
with either
old gravel, a filter, decorations and even water. The last tank I seeded,
didn't take
so I had to use another shot of Bio Spira. Most of the time, one shot of
Bio Spira
works without a problem. Feed the fish carefully and do not overfeed as
that is part of the cause.

I currently have 10 tanks running in various sizes and had been breeding
bettas. I
have now switched to trying to breed plecos and loaches. Having been in
the
hobby
since the '50's I've pretty much bred all the common guys - angels,
gouramis, catfish,
live bearers, etc.

Back when I started, I'd go to the beach, gather some beach sand and
rocks,
return
home and boil them. Into the tank they went along with the water. The fish
were generally
added the next day. I topped the tanks weekly and happily watched the fish
breed like
rabbits. Angels every two weeks, gouramis when you put them together, etc.
The fish
lived for years... my cats were 10 and 13, my oscar was 10 and huge, etc.
The only
problems you ran into were ick, wasting and faulty equipment.

Wendie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18535 From: chris topher Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
i seem to recall reading in the instructions that it
is normal for the wheel to slow down eventually...

replacing the wheel and filter pad also helps...

woody

--- wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:

> I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the bedroom for a
> few small loaches (Q), a
> pleco (Q)
> and some female bettas. I've had no problems up
> until now. I find that
> although the
> filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn.
> Everything has been
> taken apart
> and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still
> there. I'm seriously
> thinking of keeping
> that system going but adding an internal fluval.
> The tank has been running
> for about
> two years now.
> Wendie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
> Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting &
> Filtration System question
>
>
> i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to
> be
> very effective...
>
> woody
>
> --- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Has anyone ever used or are they using this
> system
> > now? I like the idea
> > of having the filter built into the hood to save
> > space, but I'm
> > wondering how well it works.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18536 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Hi,

I have a exlipse 12 and eclipse 6 (the six sets in the corner I do not use it any more, no room of course) and the wheel will slow down. According to eclipse, this is normal and the wheel never needs replacing unless it is broken or becomes so clogged (it can be cleaned carefully) or does not any longer work. I have had mine nearly a year and it is fine so far. Only thing I wish, is on the eclipse 12 that the lighting was better, 13 watts is not much for a 12 gallon tank.

Take care all,

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/



----- Original Message -----
From: chris topher
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


i seem to recall reading in the instructions that it
is normal for the wheel to slow down eventually...

replacing the wheel and filter pad also helps...

woody

--- wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:

> I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the bedroom for a
> few small loaches (Q), a
> pleco (Q)
> and some female bettas. I've had no problems up
> until now. I find that
> although the
> filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn.
> Everything has been
> taken apart
> and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still
> there. I'm seriously
> thinking of keeping
> that system going but adding an internal fluval.
> The tank has been running
> for about
> two years now.
> Wendie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
> Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting &
> Filtration System question
>
>
> i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to
> be
> very effective...
>
> woody
>
> --- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Has anyone ever used or are they using this
> system
> > now? I like the idea
> > of having the filter built into the hood to save
> > space, but I'm
> > wondering how well it works.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18537 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Replace the filter pad yes, but I don't think you should replace the
wheel. That's where your bacteria is making the most contact w/ the
water & it holds most of the beneficial bacteria there.
L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question



i seem to recall reading in the instructions that it
is normal for the wheel to slow down eventually...

replacing the wheel and filter pad also helps...

woody

--- wendie <wendieo@optonline. <mailto:wendieo%40optonline.net> net>
wrote:

> I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the bedroom for a
> few small loaches (Q), a
> pleco (Q)
> and some female bettas. I've had no problems up
> until now. I find that
> although the
> filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn.
> Everything has been
> taken apart
> and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still
> there. I'm seriously
> thinking of keeping
> that system going but adding an internal fluval.
> The tank has been running
> for about
> two years now.
> Wendie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]On
> Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting &
> Filtration System question
>
>
> i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to
> be
> very effective...
>
> woody
>
> --- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@ <mailto:monsterdealz%40yahoo.com>
yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Has anyone ever used or are they using this
> system
> > now? I like the idea
> > of having the filter built into the hood to save
> > space, but I'm
> > wondering how well it works.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18538 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
There is a higher wattage light bulb but there's a 50/50 shot you will burn
a hole
in the top of the lid using it.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Aquatic Elf
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 10:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


Hi,

I have a exlipse 12 and eclipse 6 (the six sets in the corner I do not use
it any more, no room of course) and the wheel will slow down. According to
eclipse, this is normal and the wheel never needs replacing unless it is
broken or becomes so clogged (it can be cleaned carefully) or does not any
longer work. I have had mine nearly a year and it is fine so far. Only thing
I wish, is on the eclipse 12 that the lighting was better, 13 watts is not
much for a 12 gallon tank.

Take care all,

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/

----- Original Message -----
From: chris topher
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i seem to recall reading in the instructions that it
is normal for the wheel to slow down eventually...

replacing the wheel and filter pad also helps...

woody

--- wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:

> I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the bedroom for a
> few small loaches (Q), a
> pleco (Q)
> and some female bettas. I've had no problems up
> until now. I find that
> although the
> filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn.
> Everything has been
> taken apart
> and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still
> there. I'm seriously
> thinking of keeping
> that system going but adding an internal fluval.
> The tank has been running
> for about
> two years now.
> Wendie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
> Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting &
> Filtration System question
>
>
> i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to
> be
> very effective...
>
> woody
>
> --- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Has anyone ever used or are they using this
> system
> > now? I like the idea
> > of having the filter built into the hood to save
> > space, but I'm
> > wondering how well it works.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18539 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: buying plants in bulk for cheap
ok so I'm going back to a planted tank for one of my systems and as I don't
have a lot of cash I was wondering if there is any online stores or such that
anyone knows of to get a good deal on plants... I don't mind buying in bulk
to get some good deals... I have a freshwater actually brackish tank so they
would need to be that kind of water friendly.. I know I want a very cool
amazon sword... Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18540 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Yes, it will slow down because of the load on it. I have
been looking for a replacement but toying with the idea
of putting the fluval in at the same time.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


i seem to recall reading in the instructions that it
is normal for the wheel to slow down eventually...

replacing the wheel and filter pad also helps...

woody

--- wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:

> I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the bedroom for a
> few small loaches (Q), a
> pleco (Q)
> and some female bettas. I've had no problems up
> until now. I find that
> although the
> filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn.
> Everything has been
> taken apart
> and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still
> there. I'm seriously
> thinking of keeping
> that system going but adding an internal fluval.
> The tank has been running
> for about
> two years now.
> Wendie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
> Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting &
> Filtration System question
>
>
> i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to
> be
> very effective...
>
> woody
>
> --- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Has anyone ever used or are they using this
> system
> > now? I like the idea
> > of having the filter built into the hood to save
> > space, but I'm
> > wondering how well it works.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18541 From: chris topher Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: buying plants in bulk for cheap
i got good plants from aquariumplants.com

woody

--- agentscullyeyore@... wrote:

> ok so I'm going back to a planted tank for one of my
> systems and as I don't
> have a lot of cash I was wondering if there is any
> online stores or such that
> anyone knows of to get a good deal on plants... I
> don't mind buying in bulk
> to get some good deals... I have a freshwater
> actually brackish tank so they
> would need to be that kind of water friendly.. I
> know I want a very cool
> amazon sword... Shannon
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18542 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Hi Harry, While your reply on this subject was not directed to me,
but to Jennifer (and later to Steve), I can't help but add some
comment here since you seem to be addressing what I've already
recommended for her.

First, I'd like to mention that I respect you as a moderator here and
recognize your knowledge and experience, although that in itself does
not make you any more knowledgeable than some of the rest of us.
Certainly, being the owner of several groups does not qualify anyone
to believe their methods are necessarily the best methods or the only
way to go, but again I can respect your enthusiasm in these
undertakings of owning a few groups. Just like Steve and yourself, I
too have taken shortcuts, knowing they will work for me. This is not
to say that such practices should be recommended or encouraged for
the beginner. As a moderator of a group of this kind you, above all
else, you should realize this.

The question was not what you would do or how you feel about the
nitrogen cycle and it's proponents, or whether you feel its a
complete waste to go through it, but about the length of time the
cycle should take (from a beginner); this group member was at least
aware of the cycle but did not know the details of it.

I realize you are totally familiar with the nitrogen cycle which, if
allowed to be completed, is the safest (if not the fastest) way to
start a tank for the beginner, before adding a fish load, as I'm sure
you must agree if you are at all acquainted with its process. As
such questions as this are coming from those people who are new to
the hobby, the safest and best methods for them resulting in the most
success as they get started should be of paramount importance.

BTW, some of us here who happen to have a little more knowledge and
are able to help the beginners are not merely "cruising" these
groups, but have every intention to remain permanent Group members,
as they have been since our joining, with every intention in focusing
their efforts, and willing to give their time and expertise, to those
who need it in hopes it will help them succeed, and I'm not only
referring to myself. Without the input from such knowledgeable
members as Sissy, Steve and several others who contribute their
knowledge, where would this group be to help the less informed out?

If you would note, I mentioned the possible use of BioSpira which,
although a bit on the expensive side, will speed things up for the
less patient beginner. Clear household ammonia was also brought up,
which most of us know about and can speed things up without risking
the livestock, albeit, taking somewhat longer. While I agree that
the multi-billion dollar fish industry is always looking for a niche
to exploit, the nitrogen cycle is no less real and is not a myth, but
an established fact.

Our best interests should be with the beginning hobbyists such as
Donna (Ransome) and others like her who appreciate this input and
whom we can steer in the right direction for her successful
continuance in the hobby.

Noticed your 45 years in the hobby. FYI, I've been doing this since
I've been 8 and I'm 67 now, so what does that mean (besides having 14
years on you)? I'm pleased to be able to say that I'm personal
friends with some older and wiser leading aquarium hobbyists in the
country (some would say in the world), any one of whom has far more
fish keeping knowledge than all of us on this group combined. On
more than one occassion, they have confided in me that they still
have much to learn (yes, they occassionally lose fish, but not
through "conventional" causes), and while we think of them as
experts, they don't feel that in the least. With 59 years of
experience though, I don't need to use Google except as a quick
double-check on something in rare instances (sometimes finding it
wrong), which I would not recommend for anyone anyway for fish
matters (unless they already know something), as many of those sites
are often just repetitions of the same erroneous information. Its
very easy to spot a so-called "expert" poster -- his knowledge (or
lack of) becomes self-evident very fast.

I maintain that we should not encourage practices which may be able
to be used only after experience has been gained, but instead promote
what will work best for the inexperienced and budding hobbyist, which
will not have the possibility of creating disappointing problems.
While methods such as yours will work with your experience, to which
I concur, in the interests of the beginners, there is too much room
for failure for the neophyte to experience which we want to avoid.
As you had said . . . "you do what works for you." In which case,
please don't try to persuade others who are just starting out to
avoid cycling their tank. If they don't learn the cycle, sooner or
later it will catch up with them, if not with this tank, then maybe
their next. We don't need potential disasters somewhere down the
road which may cause them to bail out. Best Regards, Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then
I would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or
even 2 weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have
always set up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding
stress coat and stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise
these groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I
using Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any
fish on a start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61
now. One "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now.
Enjoy the hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to
hear are simple myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you
want to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I
wouldn't. It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.
>
> Harry
>
>
>
>
>
> Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote: Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18543 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve
Well I have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge them to take it one step at a time. Going against pples knowledge is not helping you should think what is best for the fish.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: As a moderator here I have read your posts over the years and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable member of this group. Your post was right on target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods are the right way? How do you know? My methods are based on experience also. I am well aware of the nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of several groups I am also aware that beginners will be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8 weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the experience to know this is not necessary. What are you thoughts on this. I totally respect your opinion.

Harry


Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: HEAR, HEAR Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18544 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: What do silver dollars eat?
I have 5 huge silver dollars that don't eat. I think they munched my
live plants before I moved them but as far as I know, that's it.
I've searched the net and can't find much other than they are plant
eaters. I've crushed algae wafers, sunk zuchini which they ate a
floating bits of but then mostly spit it out again.
The don't act interested in anything I put in there.

Suggestions?

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18545 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Bioballs
They are designed to give more surface area for bacteria to grow on. Works better in a Wet Dry filter.

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: I was wondering if anyone has used bioballs in their filters? Are they worth the moola or a big waste of money?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18546 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
What is bio spira?

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I like using Bio Spira. Every now and then I'll get a batch that doesn't
work,
but on the whole I find it excellent. I've moved plecos, loaches and others
within
hours of setting up a tank without a problem. I do monitor the tank
carefully and
if necessary add some prime. If that doesn't work, I follow up with more
Bio Spira.
I keep some on hand at all times. I also try to seed a tank if possible
with either
old gravel, a filter, decorations and even water. The last tank I seeded,
didn't take
so I had to use another shot of Bio Spira. Most of the time, one shot of
Bio Spira
works without a problem. Feed the fish carefully and do not overfeed as
that is part of the cause.

I currently have 10 tanks running in various sizes and had been breeding
bettas. I
have now switched to trying to breed plecos and loaches. Having been in the
hobby
since the '50's I've pretty much bred all the common guys - angels,
gouramis, catfish,
live bearers, etc.

Back when I started, I'd go to the beach, gather some beach sand and rocks,
return
home and boil them. Into the tank they went along with the water. The fish
were generally
added the next day. I topped the tanks weekly and happily watched the fish
breed like
rabbits. Angels every two weeks, gouramis when you put them together, etc.
The fish
lived for years... my cats were 10 and 13, my oscar was 10 and huge, etc.
The only
problems you ran into were ick, wasting and faulty equipment.

Wendie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18547 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Sissy did you replace the bio balls with something else. I read that email and was going to comment then said forget it but it got the best of me lol.

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: I have a client with a 20 gal. tank , they have fancy guppies in it. Yesterday I went to clean it...........LOL
It is wall to wall guppies, I never seen so many fish in a 20 gal tank.They have marbels in the bottom, I cound not gravel vac without sucking up fish LOL
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:27 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

I have it shipped out too as no one around here even knows what it is.
Most of the time it comes fairly cool but there has been a time or two
where it's been hot to the touch and I think that's when the batch fails.

Boy back in the 50's I think I must have had about 60 fish in a 20 gallon
long tank. There was never any thought given to having too many fish
in a tank. I used to trade in the babies for supplies so things were great
and not as expensive.

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

Wendy I agree Bio Spira is a GREAT product by Marinland, But it can not
get warm, when Marinland shipps it to me they overnight it packed in ice.
When it dont work for you, it's probably cause it got too warm some where
before you bought it. I set up instant aquariums, fresh and salt all thr
time using existing bacteria from my fish rooms tanks. I use a scoop of
gravel or (salt) sand, live rock (salt), live plants(both) and used water
(both) and established bio wheels. I am able to skip the cycle this way. I
stock the aquarium with 2" of fish per 10 gals., then feed only ounce
everyother day for 2 weeks, and then check the water, if no ammonias or
nitrats, we add more fish and go to feeding everyday. Over feeding is
usually the problem I have with my new clients, and new tank syndrome, if
any. If they feed properly ( all food is eaten in 3 min), we dont have any
peoblems.
I raise seahorses and several kinds of clown fish, gobys and shrimp at the
moment, I have reised just about every kind of freshwater, so now I'm
working on salt. I love this hobby, so much still to learn :)
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:07 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

I like using Bio Spira. Every now and then I'll get a batch that doesn't
work,
but on the whole I find it excellent. I've moved plecos, loaches and
others
within
hours of setting up a tank without a problem. I do monitor the tank
carefully and
if necessary add some prime. If that doesn't work, I follow up with more
Bio Spira.
I keep some on hand at all times. I also try to seed a tank if possible
with either
old gravel, a filter, decorations and even water. The last tank I seeded,
didn't take
so I had to use another shot of Bio Spira. Most of the time, one shot of
Bio Spira
works without a problem. Feed the fish carefully and do not overfeed as
that is part of the cause.

I currently have 10 tanks running in various sizes and had been breeding
bettas. I
have now switched to trying to breed plecos and loaches. Having been in
the
hobby
since the '50's I've pretty much bred all the common guys - angels,
gouramis, catfish,
live bearers, etc.

Back when I started, I'd go to the beach, gather some beach sand and
rocks,
return
home and boil them. Into the tank they went along with the water. The fish
were generally
added the next day. I topped the tanks weekly and happily watched the fish
breed like
rabbits. Angels every two weeks, gouramis when you put them together, etc.
The fish
lived for years... my cats were 10 and 13, my oscar was 10 and huge, etc.
The only
problems you ran into were ick, wasting and faulty equipment.

Wendie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18548 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
They use to sell the bio wheels seperate.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the bedroom for a few small loaches (Q), a
pleco (Q)
and some female bettas. I've had no problems up until now. I find that
although the
filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn. Everything has been
taken apart
and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still there. I'm seriously
thinking of keeping
that system going but adding an internal fluval. The tank has been running
for about
two years now.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18549 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Well you still have filtration mechanical at least and the biolgical is still there just not as productive so you wont need a second filter really. If you replace the wheel dont do it the same time as you put in a new cartridge. Dont know how often you change it.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: Yes, it will slow down because of the load on it. I have
been looking for a replacement but toying with the idea
of putting the fluval in at the same time.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i seem to recall reading in the instructions that it
is normal for the wheel to slow down eventually...

replacing the wheel and filter pad also helps...

woody

--- wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:

> I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the bedroom for a
> few small loaches (Q), a
> pleco (Q)
> and some female bettas. I've had no problems up
> until now. I find that
> although the
> filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn.
> Everything has been
> taken apart
> and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still
> there. I'm seriously
> thinking of keeping
> that system going but adding an internal fluval.
> The tank has been running
> for about
> two years now.
> Wendie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
> Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting &
> Filtration System question
>
>
> i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to
> be
> very effective...
>
> woody
>
> --- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Has anyone ever used or are they using this
> system
> > now? I like the idea
> > of having the filter built into the hood to save
> > space, but I'm
> > wondering how well it works.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18550 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Here's a write up....

Bio-Spira is a live nitrifying bacteria....the strains that actually go to
work in aquariums. The other cycling products contain bacteria strains which
are essentially called lithotrophs and heterotrophs.... merely enzymes that
help prime the water for the growth of the real, active strains of
"nitrifying" bacteria found in aquariums (Nitrospira and Nitrosospira). Most
all of these other "cycle accelerators" are other types of Nitrosomonas
bacteria(strains once thought to be correct, but are not...like nitrosomonas
europaea and nitrobacter winogradsky). THEREFORE they are much slower than
Bio-spira which adds the "CORRECT live already-existing" true nitrifying
bacteria for aquariums.

I've got one smaller tank set up for about two weeks now with 9 green neons
and a pair of L129 plecos. As of this morning the tank readings were 0-0-5.
I put the Bio Spira in and immediately added the fish.

Wendie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 4:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle


What is bio spira?

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I like using Bio Spira. Every now
and then I'll get a batch that doesn't
work,
but on the whole I find it excellent. I've moved plecos, loaches and
others
within
hours of setting up a tank without a problem. I do monitor the tank
carefully and
if necessary add some prime. If that doesn't work, I follow up with more
Bio Spira.
I keep some on hand at all times. I also try to seed a tank if possible
with either
old gravel, a filter, decorations and even water. The last tank I seeded,
didn't take
so I had to use another shot of Bio Spira. Most of the time, one shot of
Bio Spira
works without a problem. Feed the fish carefully and do not overfeed as
that is part of the cause.

I currently have 10 tanks running in various sizes and had been breeding
bettas. I
have now switched to trying to breed plecos and loaches. Having been in
the
hobby
since the '50's I've pretty much bred all the common guys - angels,
gouramis, catfish,
live bearers, etc.

Back when I started, I'd go to the beach, gather some beach sand and
rocks,
return
home and boil them. Into the tank they went along with the water. The fish
were generally
added the next day. I topped the tanks weekly and happily watched the fish
breed like
rabbits. Angels every two weeks, gouramis when you put them together, etc.
The fish
lived for years... my cats were 10 and 13, my oscar was 10 and huge, etc.
The only
problems you ran into were ick, wasting and faulty equipment.

Wendie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18551 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
I've found wheels for other models, but not the eclipse. I'll have to do
some measuring.
Wendie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


They use to sell the bio wheels seperate.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the
bedroom for a few small loaches (Q), a
pleco (Q)
and some female bettas. I've had no problems up until now. I find that
although the
filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn. Everything has been
taken apart
and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still there. I'm seriously
thinking of keeping
that system going but adding an internal fluval. The tank has been running
for about
two years now.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18552 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: buying plants in bulk for cheap
thanks ill check them out.. Shannon




i got good plants from aquariumplants.i g

woody

--- _agentscullyeyore@agentsc_ (mailto:agentscullyeyore@...) wrote:

> ok so I'm going back to a planted tank for one of my
> systems and as I don't
> have a lot of cash I was wondering if there is any
> online stores or such that
> anyone knows of to get a good deal on plants... I
> don't mind buying in bulk
> to get some good deals... I have a freshwater
> actually brackish tank so they
> would need to be that kind of water friendly.. I
> know I want a very cool
> amazon sword... Shannon








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18553 From: llrdhsktr Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
I've had this sytem on a 25 gallon tall tank for over 7 years now.
The biowheel holds a tremendous amount of bacteria. My hood has two
lights in it that shines brightly all the way to the bottom of the
tall tank. Had goldfish in it until recently and switched over to
tropicals. Because of the goldfish, I also have a Fluval cannister
filter attached that hooks up nicely through a precut opening in the
back of the hood. The biowheel may slow down to a crawl and even
stop on occasion, but that is normal. The wheel should never be
replaced unless it somehow breaks. Do not clean it-you will kill
all the bacteria. Just replace the cartridge regularly. With
everything hidden in the hood, it makes for a very clean look.

Lester


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "monsterdealz"
<monsterdealz@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system now? I like the
idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18554 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Hello
Hi everyone,

I have just been reading all the posts for the last day and would
like to say that I had started my fish keeping adventure in a 10
gallon tank. I have two Black Moors, one Sarassa Comet and one
Plecosto/mus. For the first week they where in the 10 gallon tank
and I was having a very very hard time keeping the water clean and
clear. I have spent countless trying to do research on each of my
fishes and so far have found some pretty good info. Yesterday I
decided that my water problem was having possibly to many fish and
from what I have learned is that goldfish are messy in to small a
tank. So, yesterday I decided to clean and fill my 55 gallon tank.
After filling it with water and putting in the filter system and the
bubbles and testing the water many times and adding the chemicals I
let the tank sit for a few hours and tested the water again. Once
the water stick said the water was safe I went ahead and added the
fish. I also read that you should spend some time with your fish
each day to get to know each of them on a personal level so that way
it would be easier to tell if something was bothering one of them
and believe me I have spent the last week infront of these fish. I
think they are tired of looking at me actually?! But anyway this is
the second week that I have had these fish, and the second day that
they have been in the 55 gallon tank. I am not seeing any signs of
stress or aggitation. They seem to be doing fine. Although I
overfeed them because they are always pressed up against the glass
wanting food so I feel sorry for them and I wind up giving them a
pinch just to hold them over. But I seriously think that my female
Black Moor is pregnany because she looks like she is about to pop
like a giant black water baloon? I also read that Plecostom/us's
must each other than wafers and algea so I read that you can put a
chunck of squash or romaine lettuce or peas etc. so last night I put
three peas in the tank and he didnt touch them! Should I be
concerned that he is getting enough to eat?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18555 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: BTW
By the way I would like to thank you all for your responses. Seriously
I would have given up a few days ago if it wherent for you all. Thank
you
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18556 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
My main problem is getting fish that don't like to come out of hiding
all that often. They come out at night! In the winter, my Yo Yo's all
come out of hiding at exactly 3pm. The funny part is when you catch
these guys sleeping. My one huge gravid female is now sleeping upside
down. Walk past the tank and take a quick glance in... you could have
a heart attack!!!
Wendie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:43 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle


I have a client with a 20 gal. tank , they have fancy guppies in it.
Yesterday I went to clean it...........LOL
It is wall to wall guppies, I never seen so many fish in a 20 gal
tank.They have marbels in the bottom, I cound not gravel vac without sucking
up fish LOL
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:27 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

I have it shipped out too as no one around here even knows what it is.
Most of the time it comes fairly cool but there has been a time or two
where it's been hot to the touch and I think that's when the batch fails.

Boy back in the 50's I think I must have had about 60 fish in a 20 gallon
long tank. There was never any thought given to having too many fish
in a tank. I used to trade in the babies for supplies so things were great
and not as expensive.

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

Wendy I agree Bio Spira is a GREAT product by Marinland, But it can not
get warm, when Marinland shipps it to me they overnight it packed in ice.
When it dont work for you, it's probably cause it got too warm some where
before you bought it. I set up instant aquariums, fresh and salt all thr
time using existing bacteria from my fish rooms tanks. I use a scoop of
gravel or (salt) sand, live rock (salt), live plants(both) and used water
(both) and established bio wheels. I am able to skip the cycle this way. I
stock the aquarium with 2" of fish per 10 gals., then feed only ounce
everyother day for 2 weeks, and then check the water, if no ammonias or
nitrats, we add more fish and go to feeding everyday. Over feeding is
usually the problem I have with my new clients, and new tank syndrome, if
any. If they feed properly ( all food is eaten in 3 min), we dont have any
peoblems.
I raise seahorses and several kinds of clown fish, gobys and shrimp at the
moment, I have reised just about every kind of freshwater, so now I'm
working on salt. I love this hobby, so much still to learn :)
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:07 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

I like using Bio Spira. Every now and then I'll get a batch that doesn't
work,
but on the whole I find it excellent. I've moved plecos, loaches and
others
within
hours of setting up a tank without a problem. I do monitor the tank
carefully and
if necessary add some prime. If that doesn't work, I follow up with more
Bio Spira.
I keep some on hand at all times. I also try to seed a tank if possible
with either
old gravel, a filter, decorations and even water. The last tank I seeded,
didn't take
so I had to use another shot of Bio Spira. Most of the time, one shot of
Bio Spira
works without a problem. Feed the fish carefully and do not overfeed as
that is part of the cause.

I currently have 10 tanks running in various sizes and had been breeding
bettas. I
have now switched to trying to breed plecos and loaches. Having been in
the
hobby
since the '50's I've pretty much bred all the common guys - angels,
gouramis, catfish,
live bearers, etc.

Back when I started, I'd go to the beach, gather some beach sand and
rocks,
return
home and boil them. Into the tank they went along with the water. The fish
were generally
added the next day. I topped the tanks weekly and happily watched the fish
breed like
rabbits. Angels every two weeks, gouramis when you put them together, etc.
The fish
lived for years... my cats were 10 and 13, my oscar was 10 and huge, etc.
The only
problems you ran into were ick, wasting and faulty equipment.

Wendie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18557 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
What size Eclipse is it?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:51 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


I've found wheels for other models, but not the eclipse. I'll have to do
some measuring.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

They use to sell the bio wheels seperate.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the
bedroom for a few small loaches (Q), a
pleco (Q)
and some female bettas. I've had no problems up until now. I find that
although the
filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn. Everything has been
taken apart
and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still there. I'm seriously
thinking of keeping
that system going but adding an internal fluval. The tank has been running
for about
two years now.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18558 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Hello Sissy

This reply is not about lighting or filtration and I am sorry to butt in but, there is so little information about Black Moor Goldfish on the internet and I think my female is pregnant. For one how can I be sure, and two what do I do if she is? I read that they will eat their babies if not removed in time but if she is prenant how long is the gestation period so I will know when to remove her?

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:
What size Eclipse is it?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:51 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


I've found wheels for other models, but not the eclipse. I'll have to do
some measuring.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

They use to sell the bio wheels seperate.

wendie wrote: I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the
bedroom for a few small loaches (Q), a
pleco (Q)
and some female bettas. I've had no problems up until now. I find that
although the
filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn. Everything has been
taken apart
and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still there. I'm seriously
thinking of keeping
that system going but adding an internal fluval. The tank has been running
for about
two years now.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18559 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
I reduced the amount of bio-spheres (balls)
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle


Sissy did you replace the bio balls with something else. I read that email and was going to comment then said forget it but it got the best of me lol.

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: I have a client with a 20 gal. tank , they have fancy guppies in it. Yesterday I went to clean it...........LOL
It is wall to wall guppies, I never seen so many fish in a 20 gal tank.They have marbels in the bottom, I cound not gravel vac without sucking up fish LOL
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:27 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

I have it shipped out too as no one around here even knows what it is.
Most of the time it comes fairly cool but there has been a time or two
where it's been hot to the touch and I think that's when the batch fails.

Boy back in the 50's I think I must have had about 60 fish in a 20 gallon
long tank. There was never any thought given to having too many fish
in a tank. I used to trade in the babies for supplies so things were great
and not as expensive.

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

Wendy I agree Bio Spira is a GREAT product by Marinland, But it can not
get warm, when Marinland shipps it to me they overnight it packed in ice.
When it dont work for you, it's probably cause it got too warm some where
before you bought it. I set up instant aquariums, fresh and salt all thr
time using existing bacteria from my fish rooms tanks. I use a scoop of
gravel or (salt) sand, live rock (salt), live plants(both) and used water
(both) and established bio wheels. I am able to skip the cycle this way. I
stock the aquarium with 2" of fish per 10 gals., then feed only ounce
everyother day for 2 weeks, and then check the water, if no ammonias or
nitrats, we add more fish and go to feeding everyday. Over feeding is
usually the problem I have with my new clients, and new tank syndrome, if
any. If they feed properly ( all food is eaten in 3 min), we dont have any
peoblems.
I raise seahorses and several kinds of clown fish, gobys and shrimp at the
moment, I have reised just about every kind of freshwater, so now I'm
working on salt. I love this hobby, so much still to learn :)
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:07 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle

I like using Bio Spira. Every now and then I'll get a batch that doesn't
work,
but on the whole I find it excellent. I've moved plecos, loaches and
others
within
hours of setting up a tank without a problem. I do monitor the tank
carefully and
if necessary add some prime. If that doesn't work, I follow up with more
Bio Spira.
I keep some on hand at all times. I also try to seed a tank if possible
with either
old gravel, a filter, decorations and even water. The last tank I seeded,
didn't take
so I had to use another shot of Bio Spira. Most of the time, one shot of
Bio Spira
works without a problem. Feed the fish carefully and do not overfeed as
that is part of the cause.

I currently have 10 tanks running in various sizes and had been breeding
bettas. I
have now switched to trying to breed plecos and loaches. Having been in
the
hobby
since the '50's I've pretty much bred all the common guys - angels,
gouramis, catfish,
live bearers, etc.

Back when I started, I'd go to the beach, gather some beach sand and
rocks,
return
home and boil them. Into the tank they went along with the water. The fish
were generally
added the next day. I topped the tanks weekly and happily watched the fish
breed like
rabbits. Angels every two weeks, gouramis when you put them together, etc.
The fish
lived for years... my cats were 10 and 13, my oscar was 10 and huge, etc.
The only
problems you ran into were ick, wasting and faulty equipment.

Wendie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18560 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
I just set-up one of these 25 gal eclipse as a seahorse tank, used and existing bio wheel from an eperor filter. Added 2 TR seahorses, 2 yellow clown cobys ,a cleaner shrimp, 2 turbo snails,6 tiny hermits and mandarin goby. I love them !
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: llrdhsktr
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 12:06 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


I've had this sytem on a 25 gallon tall tank for over 7 years now.
The biowheel holds a tremendous amount of bacteria. My hood has two
lights in it that shines brightly all the way to the bottom of the
tall tank. Had goldfish in it until recently and switched over to
tropicals. Because of the goldfish, I also have a Fluval cannister
filter attached that hooks up nicely through a precut opening in the
back of the hood. The biowheel may slow down to a crawl and even
stop on occasion, but that is normal. The wheel should never be
replaced unless it somehow breaks. Do not clean it-you will kill
all the bacteria. Just replace the cartridge regularly. With
everything hidden in the hood, it makes for a very clean look.

Lester

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "monsterdealz"
<monsterdealz@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system now? I like the
idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18561 From: Hope Livingston Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Thank you..
I wanted to thank ya'll for letting me know bout the
anemone..We brought him back home today..After Rog
added more lighting..And he's doing great..He's fully
inflated and moving good..

Thanks everyone..
Hope,

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18562 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle
Pretty much, but that ammonia often has additives, so one must take care to read the label. You need plain ammonia.


\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid

Are you talking about ammonia you clean your floors with?

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

For a tank to cycle will take between 4 and 8 weeks. Using gravel or a sponge filter from an established tank will help this come up on the shorter end of the cycle.

You can cycle a tank without fish--I presume the new tank is for your goldfish. To cycle without fish, you need to find some plain ammonia--no detergent and/or scent added. Add enough of the ammonia to get a reading of 5 ppm on your test kit. Each day, add enough to bring the ammonia reading back up to 5. When the ammonia is being consumed from one day to the next, start checking your nitrite levels. When this reading reaches zero, stop adding the ammonia and add your fish. You may get a brief ammonia spike after the fish are added, but this should dissipate pretty quickly.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18563 From: jfazio Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: aquarium newbie guppy q
Hi All:

I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I got
first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another from
their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and if
one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing the
new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off, swim
above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or anything like
that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt each
other? They are two different types of male guppies.

Thanks.

Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
[]

"Let us run while you get other things done"



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18564 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
Steve is 100% right. You asked how long a tank takes to cycle we told you and ppl gave their opions. My Library got destroyed and I miss working in the fish business now been working for 12 years and was manager. I try not to give short cut advice unless I knew it was certern it wouldnt hurt the fish. Ill rather see you suceed and the fish live. I hate to see you put the fish in there because "I told you so" and then have them die off. When you do move them make sure Ph is near the same and that you slowly acclimate them. You also should add them as little as possible. Now your going to get everything that a new cycle gets. The New Tank Syndrome and probably an ammonia spike. Just doing it fast could crash the tank.

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that, but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2 weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the "Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.

It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

=====================================================================
Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18565 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Julidochromis transcriptus (was ~ RE: [AquaticLife] Water change)
Julidochromis Transcriptus is that a cichlid?

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

...(for instance, when I was keeping _Julidochromis transcriptus_, I
needed to do minimal water changes, less than 10%, because they are
rather "allergic" to fresh water)...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18566 From: harry perry Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I see something that could be approved upon I will speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I just read a post from a professional aquarium maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.

Harry



Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: Well I have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge them to take it one step at a time. Going against pples knowledge is not helping you should think what is best for the fish.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: As a moderator here I have read your posts over the years and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable member of this group. Your post was right on target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods are the right way? How do you know? My methods are based on experience also. I am well aware of the nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of several groups I am also aware that beginners will be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8 weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the experience to know this is not necessary. What are you thoughts on this. I totally respect your opinion.

Harry

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: HEAR, HEAR Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18567 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
This one is a 12 gallon.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 7:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


What size Eclipse is it?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:51 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

I've found wheels for other models, but not the eclipse. I'll have to do
some measuring.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

They use to sell the bio wheels seperate.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the
bedroom for a few small loaches (Q), a
pleco (Q)
and some female bettas. I've had no problems up until now. I find that
although the
filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn. Everything has been
taken apart
and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still there. I'm seriously
thinking of keeping
that system going but adding an internal fluval. The tank has been running
for about
two years now.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18568 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Hello Harry

I am not trying to get into the middle of this even though it was
myself who started this but I agree with you and other people on
this group. As I said when I joined this group I love reptiles and
have an Iguana which is now two years old. It was the hardest animal
I have every had to take care of that is when he was a baby and even
at two years of age he is still considered a baby. As I did with my
new found hobby I always seek advice from experienced people such as
yourselves and am always commited to doing my own research but I
always do things my way which usually work out most of the time but
not all of the time. The reason I started keeping fish is because
the hospital I work at have huge aquariums in the Surgery Center and
I found over the past two years that when I got upset I would go and
stare at those fish tanks and it would calm me down. I have found
that having these fish in the house that when my husband comes home
from his business trips sometimes being gone for weeks at a time he
made the comment this weekend that our new tank is very calming. It
also believe it or not having all of these animals in the house
keeps me from being a bad girl! I am one who has an extremely
terrible temper and the animals in a way help me control it because
my attention is focused elsewhere. I am a trial and error kind of
woman and I learn quickly from my mistakes.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18569 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
I'm sorry Wendie, I dont know what size that would be, if you can measure it in diameter and lenght. I can look at my regular bio wheel hang-on filters and see what matches for you.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:36 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


This one is a 12 gallon.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 7:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

What size Eclipse is it?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:51 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

I've found wheels for other models, but not the eclipse. I'll have to do
some measuring.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

They use to sell the bio wheels seperate.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the
bedroom for a few small loaches (Q), a
pleco (Q)
and some female bettas. I've had no problems up until now. I find that
although the
filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn. Everything has been
taken apart
and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still there. I'm seriously
thinking of keeping
that system going but adding an internal fluval. The tank has been running
for about
two years now.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18570 From: harry perry Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray
Great post with some great points. Thank you. However I'm still not going to wait 2 months for a tank to cycle when their are much quicker methods that the "beginners" should know about. Our duty to the beginners??? They are not children, why should we treat them as such I.E. "they need to learn the right way" Their is no right way. Bio Spira, ammonia, fish, fish food it all works. I didn't say cycling a tank is a myth but cycling a tank for two months is ridiculous and simple not necessary. You and I both know this. Why keep it a secret.?

If it were necessary to cycle a tank for two months how could the professional aquarium maintenance folks survive?. Their livelihood depends on keeping fish alive and I don't think their customers are going to stare at an empty tank for two months. While the algae grows.

If you not a "cruising goggle expert" then I consider you and the other folks you mentioned to be valuable members of this group. Thank you very much for you help.

P.S. Glad to hear I'm not the oldest in the group.

Thanks again

Harry

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Hi Harry, While your reply on this subject was not directed to me,
but to Jennifer (and later to Steve), I can't help but add some
comment here since you seem to be addressing what I've already
recommended for her.

First, I'd like to mention that I respect you as a moderator here and
recognize your knowledge and experience, although that in itself does
not make you any more knowledgeable than some of the rest of us.
Certainly, being the owner of several groups does not qualify anyone
to believe their methods are necessarily the best methods or the only
way to go, but again I can respect your enthusiasm in these
undertakings of owning a few groups. Just like Steve and yourself, I
too have taken shortcuts, knowing they will work for me. This is not
to say that such practices should be recommended or encouraged for
the beginner. As a moderator of a group of this kind you, above all
else, you should realize this.

The question was not what you would do or how you feel about the
nitrogen cycle and it's proponents, or whether you feel its a
complete waste to go through it, but about the length of time the
cycle should take (from a beginner); this group member was at least
aware of the cycle but did not know the details of it.

I realize you are totally familiar with the nitrogen cycle which, if
allowed to be completed, is the safest (if not the fastest) way to
start a tank for the beginner, before adding a fish load, as I'm sure
you must agree if you are at all acquainted with its process. As
such questions as this are coming from those people who are new to
the hobby, the safest and best methods for them resulting in the most
success as they get started should be of paramount importance.

BTW, some of us here who happen to have a little more knowledge and
are able to help the beginners are not merely "cruising" these
groups, but have every intention to remain permanent Group members,
as they have been since our joining, with every intention in focusing
their efforts, and willing to give their time and expertise, to those
who need it in hopes it will help them succeed, and I'm not only
referring to myself. Without the input from such knowledgeable
members as Sissy, Steve and several others who contribute their
knowledge, where would this group be to help the less informed out?

If you would note, I mentioned the possible use of BioSpira which,
although a bit on the expensive side, will speed things up for the
less patient beginner. Clear household ammonia was also brought up,
which most of us know about and can speed things up without risking
the livestock, albeit, taking somewhat longer. While I agree that
the multi-billion dollar fish industry is always looking for a niche
to exploit, the nitrogen cycle is no less real and is not a myth, but
an established fact.

Our best interests should be with the beginning hobbyists such as
Donna (Ransome) and others like her who appreciate this input and
whom we can steer in the right direction for her successful
continuance in the hobby.

Noticed your 45 years in the hobby. FYI, I've been doing this since
I've been 8 and I'm 67 now, so what does that mean (besides having 14
years on you)? I'm pleased to be able to say that I'm personal
friends with some older and wiser leading aquarium hobbyists in the
country (some would say in the world), any one of whom has far more
fish keeping knowledge than all of us on this group combined. On
more than one occassion, they have confided in me that they still
have much to learn (yes, they occassionally lose fish, but not
through "conventional" causes), and while we think of them as
experts, they don't feel that in the least. With 59 years of
experience though, I don't need to use Google except as a quick
double-check on something in rare instances (sometimes finding it
wrong), which I would not recommend for anyone anyway for fish
matters (unless they already know something), as many of those sites
are often just repetitions of the same erroneous information. Its
very easy to spot a so-called "expert" poster -- his knowledge (or
lack of) becomes self-evident very fast.

I maintain that we should not encourage practices which may be able
to be used only after experience has been gained, but instead promote
what will work best for the inexperienced and budding hobbyist, which
will not have the possibility of creating disappointing problems.
While methods such as yours will work with your experience, to which
I concur, in the interests of the beginners, there is too much room
for failure for the neophyte to experience which we want to avoid.
As you had said . . . "you do what works for you." In which case,
please don't try to persuade others who are just starting out to
avoid cycling their tank. If they don't learn the cycle, sooner or
later it will catch up with them, if not with this tank, then maybe
their next. We don't need potential disasters somewhere down the
road which may cause them to bail out. Best Regards, Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then
I would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or
even 2 weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have
always set up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding
stress coat and stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise
these groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I
using Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any
fish on a start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61
now. One "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now.
Enjoy the hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to
hear are simple myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you
want to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I
wouldn't. It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.
>
> Harry
>
>
>
>
>
> Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote: Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
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>






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18571 From: harry perry Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/again
You didn't start anything this is an issue that is "strongly" debated across all the groups. By respectively disagreeing and challenging ideas, like folks challenging my ideas, we all learn. I learn something every time I get into one of these debates. It helps us all grow. I suspected you thought for yourself that's why I put in the phrase "common sense". It is a rewarding hobby and the best we can all do is keep learning. Fish do seem to have a calming affect on folks. Just one of the many advantages.

I always wanted a bearded dragon. Someday I'll have one. Take care, have fun.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hello Harry

I am not trying to get into the middle of this even though it was
myself who started this but I agree with you and other people on
this group. As I said when I joined this group I love reptiles and
have an Iguana which is now two years old. It was the hardest animal
I have every had to take care of that is when he was a baby and even
at two years of age he is still considered a baby. As I did with my
new found hobby I always seek advice from experienced people such as
yourselves and am always commited to doing my own research but I
always do things my way which usually work out most of the time but
not all of the time. The reason I started keeping fish is because
the hospital I work at have huge aquariums in the Surgery Center and
I found over the past two years that when I got upset I would go and
stare at those fish tanks and it would calm me down. I have found
that having these fish in the house that when my husband comes home
from his business trips sometimes being gone for weeks at a time he
made the comment this weekend that our new tank is very calming. It
also believe it or not having all of these animals in the house
keeps me from being a bad girl! I am one who has an extremely
terrible temper and the animals in a way help me control it because
my attention is focused elsewhere. I am a trial and error kind of
woman and I learn quickly from my mistakes.






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18572 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: buying plants in bulk for cheap
Shannon,

If you are going to place plants in a brackish tank, do some research first, or you will end up wasting your money. The amazon sword you mention will not survive brackish waters. The list of plants that will is rather limited. If you want a sword-like plant, you might want to check out some of the _Anubias_ spp. While they are not brackish water plants, they do have a thick leaf that may help it survive. Java fern is another choice that may work. Some of the sagittarius plant group would be a good choice. If you do not have much money to spend, spend it wisely.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 2:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] buying plants in bulk for cheap

ok so I'm going back to a planted tank for one of my systems and as I don't
have a lot of cash I was wondering if there is any online stores or such that
anyone knows of to get a good deal on plants... I don't mind buying in bulk
to get some good deals... I have a freshwater actually brackish tank so they
would need to be that kind of water friendly.. I know I want a very cool
amazon sword... Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18573 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray/Harry and whomever else
Hello all

I agree with Harry. Having been in a similar situation but not with
fish but with an Iguana which was only two months old when I got it.
If I would have waited and did what some of the people in that group
said he would be dead by now! I do what I think is best and is best
learned by trial and error. I would never do anything to harm any
living creature. Although if a person does not do research you are
hurting that creature. Yesterday when I filled the 55 gallon tank and
treated the water I had put the fish in it within an hour or two I
cant really remember but I know it was not two months. I am not
disagreeing with anyone but I feel after having done my own research
that I made the right choice and so far the fish are doing great! I
will let you all know how they are doing in another week and then
another after that.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18574 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: All/Harry
Hi all

Please dont mind me! I am very opinionated and independent. I do enjoy
reading the posts by the group and I am learning from you all. I agree
with Harry we can all agree to disagree. I am just astonished! I had
no idea there was so much to fish keeping?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18575 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Jennifer, first I need to know if you have 2 or more ?
you do realize they are fat looking fish in the first place, right?
They have to be a pair to spawn, it takes two to tango!
They have to be at least 1 year old to spawn, and generaly require a large water change to simulate spring is here with a tempture increase. They usually only spawn ounce a year, but conditions can be altered in the aquarium to get them to spawn more often. They are eggs layers and normaly spawn in live plants on the surface of the water. Spawning is very intense and will follow after several days of the male chasing the female. Sometimes you have to remove the female from the male, so he dont kill her. Male develope these spikes, that you can see and fell on their chin,gill plates and throat, called tubercles. Yes the will eat the eggs as soon as the get done spawning. In the past I have used string mops (boiled to sterlize) for them to lay on, then when the spawning is done, you can remove the mop to a ready set up hatchery with a sponge filter, place a air stone under the mop so the bubbles rise up and make water movement arround the mop. In 4-6 days the eggs will hatch depending on the temp., dont feed the fry untill the egg sack is completly absorbed. Then fine ground high carb goldfish flakes work as food.
Hope this helps!

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer Kokoruda
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


Hello Sissy

This reply is not about lighting or filtration and I am sorry to butt in but, there is so little information about Black Moor Goldfish on the internet and I think my female is pregnant. For one how can I be sure, and two what do I do if she is? I read that they will eat their babies if not removed in time but if she is prenant how long is the gestation period so I will know when to remove her?

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:
What size Eclipse is it?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:51 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

I've found wheels for other models, but not the eclipse. I'll have to do
some measuring.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

They use to sell the bio wheels seperate.

wendie wrote: I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the
bedroom for a few small loaches (Q), a
pleco (Q)
and some female bettas. I've had no problems up until now. I find that
although the
filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn. Everything has been
taken apart
and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still there. I'm seriously
thinking of keeping
that system going but adding an internal fluval. The tank has been running
for about
two years now.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

(Yahoo! ID required)

mailto:AquaticLife-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18576 From: Jennifer Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Thank you so much! Yes it helps. Well in doing my research on these
fish I read that the female is well for the lack of better words
bigger and rounder than the male. As of right now I have not seen the
Tubercles. She seems to be getting fatter though. She was in a tank
when I bought her with a lot of her own kind so I am thinking that if
she is pregnant she could have been that way when I got her. After I
bought the second Black Moor that is when I read that the males are
smaller in size and not as round which leads to think that I either
have a male and a female or just a female and a juvenile? But I could
not find anything on the gestation period? Also, do fish need a photo
period? I mean my iguana needs a photoperiod of 12/12 or 12/13 12
hours of light and 12 hours of dark etc.....?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18577 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Yes, they do need the photo period, same as the iguana, 12 on-12 off.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:54 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


Thank you so much! Yes it helps. Well in doing my research on these
fish I read that the female is well for the lack of better words
bigger and rounder than the male. As of right now I have not seen the
Tubercles. She seems to be getting fatter though. She was in a tank
when I bought her with a lot of her own kind so I am thinking that if
she is pregnant she could have been that way when I got her. After I
bought the second Black Moor that is when I read that the males are
smaller in size and not as round which leads to think that I either
have a male and a female or just a female and a juvenile? But I could
not find anything on the gestation period? Also, do fish need a photo
period? I mean my iguana needs a photoperiod of 12/12 or 12/13 12
hours of light and 12 hours of dark etc.....?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18578 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray
Harry,

Eight weeks (two months) is the outside of getting a cycle started. 4-6 weeks is more common. I cannot speak of Bio-spira, since I have never used it. If I've not done it, I can't recommend it. Others have used it, and I have seen enough to believe that it may work, and work as advertised, but, until I've done it myself, I can't say. Using food or fish to cycle a tank does not cut down on the time the cycle takes to get started. It is all based on the same formula, and until the bacterial population grows to meet the demand, they cycle is not complete.

Aquarium keeping is a science and an art. While you can argue to the death about the art, you cannot argue the science.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 10:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray

Great post with some great points. Thank you. However I'm still not going to wait 2 months for a tank to cycle when their are much quicker methods that the "beginners" should know about. Our duty to the beginners??? They are not children, why should we treat them as such I.E. "they need to learn the right way" Their is no right way. Bio Spira, ammonia, fish, fish food it all works. I didn't say cycling a tank is a myth but cycling a tank for two months is ridiculous and simple not necessary. You and I both know this. Why keep it a secret.?

If it were necessary to cycle a tank for two months how could the professional aquarium maintenance folks survive?. Their livelihood depends on keeping fish alive and I don't think their customers are going to stare at an empty tank for two months. While the algae grows.

If you not a "cruising goggle expert" then I consider you and the other folks you mentioned to be valuable members of this group. Thank you very much for you help.

P.S. Glad to hear I'm not the oldest in the group.

Thanks again

Harry

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Hi Harry, While your reply on this subject was not directed to me,
but to Jennifer (and later to Steve), I can't help but add some
comment here since you seem to be addressing what I've already
recommended for her.

First, I'd like to mention that I respect you as a moderator here and
recognize your knowledge and experience, although that in itself does
not make you any more knowledgeable than some of the rest of us.
Certainly, being the owner of several groups does not qualify anyone
to believe their methods are necessarily the best methods or the only
way to go, but again I can respect your enthusiasm in these
undertakings of owning a few groups. Just like Steve and yourself, I
too have taken shortcuts, knowing they will work for me. This is not
to say that such practices should be recommended or encouraged for
the beginner. As a moderator of a group of this kind you, above all
else, you should realize this.

The question was not what you would do or how you feel about the
nitrogen cycle and it's proponents, or whether you feel its a
complete waste to go through it, but about the length of time the
cycle should take (from a beginner); this group member was at least
aware of the cycle but did not know the details of it.

I realize you are totally familiar with the nitrogen cycle which, if
allowed to be completed, is the safest (if not the fastest) way to
start a tank for the beginner, before adding a fish load, as I'm sure
you must agree if you are at all acquainted with its process. As
such questions as this are coming from those people who are new to
the hobby, the safest and best methods for them resulting in the most
success as they get started should be of paramount importance.

BTW, some of us here who happen to have a little more knowledge and
are able to help the beginners are not merely "cruising" these
groups, but have every intention to remain permanent Group members,
as they have been since our joining, with every intention in focusing
their efforts, and willing to give their time and expertise, to those
who need it in hopes it will help them succeed, and I'm not only
referring to myself. Without the input from such knowledgeable
members as Sissy, Steve and several others who contribute their
knowledge, where would this group be to help the less informed out?

If you would note, I mentioned the possible use of BioSpira which,
although a bit on the expensive side, will speed things up for the
less patient beginner. Clear household ammonia was also brought up,
which most of us know about and can speed things up without risking
the livestock, albeit, taking somewhat longer. While I agree that
the multi-billion dollar fish industry is always looking for a niche
to exploit, the nitrogen cycle is no less real and is not a myth, but
an established fact.

Our best interests should be with the beginning hobbyists such as
Donna (Ransome) and others like her who appreciate this input and
whom we can steer in the right direction for her successful
continuance in the hobby.

Noticed your 45 years in the hobby. FYI, I've been doing this since
I've been 8 and I'm 67 now, so what does that mean (besides having 14
years on you)? I'm pleased to be able to say that I'm personal
friends with some older and wiser leading aquarium hobbyists in the
country (some would say in the world), any one of whom has far more
fish keeping knowledge than all of us on this group combined. On
more than one occassion, they have confided in me that they still
have much to learn (yes, they occassionally lose fish, but not
through "conventional" causes), and while we think of them as
experts, they don't feel that in the least. With 59 years of
experience though, I don't need to use Google except as a quick
double-check on something in rare instances (sometimes finding it
wrong), which I would not recommend for anyone anyway for fish
matters (unless they already know something), as many of those sites
are often just repetitions of the same erroneous information. Its
very easy to spot a so-called "expert" poster -- his knowledge (or
lack of) becomes self-evident very fast.

I maintain that we should not encourage practices which may be able
to be used only after experience has been gained, but instead promote
what will work best for the inexperienced and budding hobbyist, which
will not have the possibility of creating disappointing problems.
While methods such as yours will work with your experience, to which
I concur, in the interests of the beginners, there is too much room
for failure for the neophyte to experience which we want to avoid.
As you had said . . . "you do what works for you." In which case,
please don't try to persuade others who are just starting out to
avoid cycling their tank. If they don't learn the cycle, sooner or
later it will catch up with them, if not with this tank, then maybe
their next. We don't need potential disasters somewhere down the
road which may cause them to bail out. Best Regards, Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then
I would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or
even 2 weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have
always set up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding
stress coat and stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise
these groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I
using Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any
fish on a start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61
now. One "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now.
Enjoy the hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to
hear are simple myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you
want to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I
wouldn't. It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.
>
> Harry
>
>
>
>
>
> Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote: Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18579 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers always go after females to mate. You need to get a couple more females or he will stress here out. Giving him optional females allows the other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is natural. When you look under the fish you will see a fin on the female that is spread out on the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The picture given is of a male you can see the rod right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same place.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043



jfazio <jfazio@...> wrote:
Hi All:

I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I got
first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another from
their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and if
one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing the
new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off, swim
above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or anything like
that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt each
other? They are two different types of male guppies.

Thanks.

Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
[]

"Let us run while you get other things done"

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18580 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: What do silver dollars eat?
What was being fed by the person or store you purchased them from? This
would be a good place to start. You might try hanging some lettuce in
the tank, and see if they will take that. They do sell special lettuce
hangers for the marine folk, but just use one of those springy type
clothes pins to hang it until you know you will be using it enough to
spend the money on the contraption they sell. I think Romaine lettuce is
the choice for marines--it may have more nutrients than the common
iceberg lettuce.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 4:45 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What do silver dollars eat?

I have 5 huge silver dollars that don't eat. I think they munched my
live plants before I moved them but as far as I know, that's it.
I've searched the net and can't find much other than they are plant
eaters. I've crushed algae wafers, sunk zuchini which they ate a
floating bits of but then mostly spit it out again.
The don't act interested in anything I put in there.

Suggestions?

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18581 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Have you tried the company.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I've found wheels for other models, but not the eclipse. I'll have to do
some measuring.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

They use to sell the bio wheels seperate.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the
bedroom for a few small loaches (Q), a
pleco (Q)
and some female bettas. I've had no problems up until now. I find that
although the
filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn. Everything has been
taken apart
and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still there. I'm seriously
thinking of keeping
that system going but adding an internal fluval. The tank has been running
for about
two years now.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18582 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Julidochromis transcriptus (was ~ RE: [AquaticLife] Water chang
It is the only Rift Lake cichlid I have ever kept. They were kept in a
species tank, and their behavior was very interesting.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Julidochromis transcriptus (was ~ RE: [AquaticLife] Water
change)

Julidochromis Transcriptus is that a cichlid?

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

...(for instance, when I was keeping _Julidochromis transcriptus_, I
needed to do minimal water changes, less than 10%, because they are
rather "allergic" to fresh water)...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18583 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Jenn black moors get up to 10" and they don't mate until they are mature and you cant tell sexes of goldfish until also. They also are very hard to mate in a tank. Some goldfish are reared to look blotted so that could be what it is. There is a disease where the fish do look like they are going to explode. If the scales look like they are pointing out of the fish that's a bacterial infection and should be treated. Well good luck on your tank. Just remember this one would get cloudy for the first cycle and is natural. Don't do any water changes and be patent it will clear up. Final note fish always act like if they are hungry and where goldfish is the messiest fish that's not a good thing. They should be fed once every other day a small pinch of food of reg goldfish food and a Sm pinch of spirlena so they don't get constipated.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hi everyone,

I have just been reading all the posts for the last day and would
like to say that I had started my fish keeping adventure in a 10
gallon tank. I have two Black Moors, one Sarassa Comet and one
Plecosto/mus. For the first week they where in the 10 gallon tank
and I was having a very very hard time keeping the water clean and
clear. I have spent countless trying to do research on each of my
fishes and so far have found some pretty good info. Yesterday I
decided that my water problem was having possibly to many fish and
from what I have learned is that goldfish are messy in to small a
tank. So, yesterday I decided to clean and fill my 55 gallon tank.
After filling it with water and putting in the filter system and the
bubbles and testing the water many times and adding the chemicals I
let the tank sit for a few hours and tested the water again. Once
the water stick said the water was safe I went ahead and added the
fish. I also read that you should spend some time with your fish
each day to get to know each of them on a personal level so that way
it would be easier to tell if something was bothering one of them
and believe me I have spent the last week infront of these fish. I
think they are tired of looking at me actually?! But anyway this is
the second week that I have had these fish, and the second day that
they have been in the 55 gallon tank. I am not seeing any signs of
stress or aggitation. They seem to be doing fine. Although I
overfeed them because they are always pressed up against the glass
wanting food so I feel sorry for them and I wind up giving them a
pinch just to hold them over. But I seriously think that my female
Black Moor is pregnany because she looks like she is about to pop
like a giant black water baloon? I also read that Plecostom/us's
must each other than wafers and algea so I read that you can put a
chunck of squash or romaine lettuce or peas etc. so last night I put
three peas in the tank and he didnt touch them! Should I be
concerned that he is getting enough to eat?






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18584 From: wendie Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
No not yet as this just happened a couple days ago.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 10:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


Have you tried the company.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I've found wheels for other models,
but not the eclipse. I'll have to do
some measuring.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 5:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

They use to sell the bio wheels seperate.

wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I have the 12 gallon eclipse in the
bedroom for a few small loaches (Q), a
pleco (Q)
and some female bettas. I've had no problems up until now. I find that
although the
filter works, the bio wheel does not want to turn. Everything has been
taken apart
and cleaned thoroughly but the problem is still there. I'm seriously
thinking of keeping
that system going but adding an internal fluval. The tank has been running
for about
two years now.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 8:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question

i have 2 eclipse systems running and they seem to be
very effective...

woody

--- monsterdealz <monsterdealz@...> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone ever used or are they using this system
> now? I like the idea
> of having the filter built into the hood to save
> space, but I'm
> wondering how well it works.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18585 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Good jennifer we all learned by trial and error to try to keep fish healthy not just survival of the fitest which is what im getting.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hello Harry

I am not trying to get into the middle of this even though it was
myself who started this but I agree with you and other people on
this group. As I said when I joined this group I love reptiles and
have an Iguana which is now two years old. It was the hardest animal
I have every had to take care of that is when he was a baby and even
at two years of age he is still considered a baby. As I did with my
new found hobby I always seek advice from experienced people such as
yourselves and am always commited to doing my own research but I
always do things my way which usually work out most of the time but
not all of the time. The reason I started keeping fish is because
the hospital I work at have huge aquariums in the Surgery Center and
I found over the past two years that when I got upset I would go and
stare at those fish tanks and it would calm me down. I have found
that having these fish in the house that when my husband comes home
from his business trips sometimes being gone for weeks at a time he
made the comment this weekend that our new tank is very calming. It
also believe it or not having all of these animals in the house
keeps me from being a bad girl! I am one who has an extremely
terrible temper and the animals in a way help me control it because
my attention is focused elsewhere. I am a trial and error kind of
woman and I learn quickly from my mistakes.






---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18586 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
You dont tell someone not to listen to this person or that person. We are all giving our opions here to help out. This done through knowledge, know how, training, reading and learning from mistakes. We arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once is a shamless act.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I see something that could be approved upon I will speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I just read a post from a professional aquarium maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.

Harry

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: Well I have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge them to take it one step at a time. Going against pples knowledge is not helping you should think what is best for the fish.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: As a moderator here I have read your posts over the years and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable member of this group. Your post was right on target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods are the right way? How do you know? My methods are based on experience also. I am well aware of the nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of several groups I am also aware that beginners will be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8 weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the experience to know this is not necessary. What are you thoughts on this. I totally respect your opinion.

Harry

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: HEAR, HEAR Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18587 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray
Harry a cycling can last 2 months no matter what you put in there to help it along. Whats important is that you dont add all the fish at once in those begining months which it sounds like you are saying.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: Great post with some great points. Thank you. However I'm still not going to wait 2 months for a tank to cycle when their are much quicker methods that the "beginners" should know about. Our duty to the beginners??? They are not children, why should we treat them as such I.E. "they need to learn the right way" Their is no right way. Bio Spira, ammonia, fish, fish food it all works. I didn't say cycling a tank is a myth but cycling a tank for two months is ridiculous and simple not necessary. You and I both know this. Why keep it a secret.?

If it were necessary to cycle a tank for two months how could the professional aquarium maintenance folks survive?. Their livelihood depends on keeping fish alive and I don't think their customers are going to stare at an empty tank for two months. While the algae grows.

If you not a "cruising goggle expert" then I consider you and the other folks you mentioned to be valuable members of this group. Thank you very much for you help.

P.S. Glad to hear I'm not the oldest in the group.

Thanks again

Harry

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Hi Harry, While your reply on this subject was not directed to me,
but to Jennifer (and later to Steve), I can't help but add some
comment here since you seem to be addressing what I've already
recommended for her.

First, I'd like to mention that I respect you as a moderator here and
recognize your knowledge and experience, although that in itself does
not make you any more knowledgeable than some of the rest of us.
Certainly, being the owner of several groups does not qualify anyone
to believe their methods are necessarily the best methods or the only
way to go, but again I can respect your enthusiasm in these
undertakings of owning a few groups. Just like Steve and yourself, I
too have taken shortcuts, knowing they will work for me. This is not
to say that such practices should be recommended or encouraged for
the beginner. As a moderator of a group of this kind you, above all
else, you should realize this.

The question was not what you would do or how you feel about the
nitrogen cycle and it's proponents, or whether you feel its a
complete waste to go through it, but about the length of time the
cycle should take (from a beginner); this group member was at least
aware of the cycle but did not know the details of it.

I realize you are totally familiar with the nitrogen cycle which, if
allowed to be completed, is the safest (if not the fastest) way to
start a tank for the beginner, before adding a fish load, as I'm sure
you must agree if you are at all acquainted with its process. As
such questions as this are coming from those people who are new to
the hobby, the safest and best methods for them resulting in the most
success as they get started should be of paramount importance.

BTW, some of us here who happen to have a little more knowledge and
are able to help the beginners are not merely "cruising" these
groups, but have every intention to remain permanent Group members,
as they have been since our joining, with every intention in focusing
their efforts, and willing to give their time and expertise, to those
who need it in hopes it will help them succeed, and I'm not only
referring to myself. Without the input from such knowledgeable
members as Sissy, Steve and several others who contribute their
knowledge, where would this group be to help the less informed out?

If you would note, I mentioned the possible use of BioSpira which,
although a bit on the expensive side, will speed things up for the
less patient beginner. Clear household ammonia was also brought up,
which most of us know about and can speed things up without risking
the livestock, albeit, taking somewhat longer. While I agree that
the multi-billion dollar fish industry is always looking for a niche
to exploit, the nitrogen cycle is no less real and is not a myth, but
an established fact.

Our best interests should be with the beginning hobbyists such as
Donna (Ransome) and others like her who appreciate this input and
whom we can steer in the right direction for her successful
continuance in the hobby.

Noticed your 45 years in the hobby. FYI, I've been doing this since
I've been 8 and I'm 67 now, so what does that mean (besides having 14
years on you)? I'm pleased to be able to say that I'm personal
friends with some older and wiser leading aquarium hobbyists in the
country (some would say in the world), any one of whom has far more
fish keeping knowledge than all of us on this group combined. On
more than one occassion, they have confided in me that they still
have much to learn (yes, they occassionally lose fish, but not
through "conventional" causes), and while we think of them as
experts, they don't feel that in the least. With 59 years of
experience though, I don't need to use Google except as a quick
double-check on something in rare instances (sometimes finding it
wrong), which I would not recommend for anyone anyway for fish
matters (unless they already know something), as many of those sites
are often just repetitions of the same erroneous information. Its
very easy to spot a so-called "expert" poster -- his knowledge (or
lack of) becomes self-evident very fast.

I maintain that we should not encourage practices which may be able
to be used only after experience has been gained, but instead promote
what will work best for the inexperienced and budding hobbyist, which
will not have the possibility of creating disappointing problems.
While methods such as yours will work with your experience, to which
I concur, in the interests of the beginners, there is too much room
for failure for the neophyte to experience which we want to avoid.
As you had said . . . "you do what works for you." In which case,
please don't try to persuade others who are just starting out to
avoid cycling their tank. If they don't learn the cycle, sooner or
later it will catch up with them, if not with this tank, then maybe
their next. We don't need potential disasters somewhere down the
road which may cause them to bail out. Best Regards, Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then
I would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or
even 2 weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have
always set up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding
stress coat and stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise
these groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I
using Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any
fish on a start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61
now. One "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now.
Enjoy the hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to
hear are simple myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you
want to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I
wouldn't. It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.
>
> Harry
>
>
>
>
>
> Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote: Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18588 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray/Harry and whomever else
Well Jennifer that really is ok. How many fish did you add at once though is what would be the risk now. The more you add the more of an ammonia spike you will get. In the begining there is nothing to help breakdown this ammonia, nitrites and nitrates that what we all except Harry was trying to get across. Personally in a 55 gallon i would add a few fish within a couple weeks at a time to let the cycle take hold.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hello all

I agree with Harry. Having been in a similar situation but not with
fish but with an Iguana which was only two months old when I got it.
If I would have waited and did what some of the people in that group
said he would be dead by now! I do what I think is best and is best
learned by trial and error. I would never do anything to harm any
living creature. Although if a person does not do research you are
hurting that creature. Yesterday when I filled the 55 gallon tank and
treated the water I had put the fish in it within an hour or two I
cant really remember but I know it was not two months. I am not
disagreeing with anyone but I feel after having done my own research
that I made the right choice and so far the fish are doing great! I
will let you all know how they are doing in another week and then
another after that.






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18589 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
Jenn shes not pregnaunt but she might be egg bearing which she cant do anything about unless there is a male, the tank is at it specific needs, the ph is correct for that species not 7.0. Now sissy dont they have to be full grown which is 10" to be breedable? They dont have a gestation period. As if leading the light on thats your desgestion.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
Thank you so much! Yes it helps. Well in doing my research on these
fish I read that the female is well for the lack of better words
bigger and rounder than the male. As of right now I have not seen the
Tubercles. She seems to be getting fatter though. She was in a tank
when I bought her with a lot of her own kind so I am thinking that if
she is pregnant she could have been that way when I got her. After I
bought the second Black Moor that is when I read that the males are
smaller in size and not as round which leads to think that I either
have a male and a female or just a female and a juvenile? But I could
not find anything on the gestation period? Also, do fish need a photo
period? I mean my iguana needs a photoperiod of 12/12 or 12/13 12
hours of light and 12 hours of dark etc.....?






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18590 From: harry perry Date: 9/6/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe/again
I'm not going going to fight with you here. Let's take it off list. If you got the......... well you know.

Harry

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: You dont tell someone not to listen to this person or that person. We are all giving our opions here to help out. This done through knowledge, know how, training, reading and learning from mistakes. We arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once is a shamless act.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I see something that could be approved upon I will speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I just read a post from a professional aquarium maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.

Harry

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: Well I have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge them to take it one step at a time. Going against pples knowledge is not helping you should think what is best for the fish.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: As a moderator here I have read your posts over the years and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable member of this group. Your post was right on target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods are the right way? How do you know? My methods are based on experience also. I am well aware of the nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of several groups I am also aware that beginners will be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8 weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the experience to know this is not necessary. What are you thoughts on this. I totally respect your opinion.

Harry

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: HEAR, HEAR Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18591 From: Hussam Mousa Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Maintaining proper tempreture
Hi All,

I am having quite a mystery with my 20 gallon reef aquarium.
I know that I should try to maintain a stable temperature between 77-79 F.

I started out with the 75 watt Marineland Visi Therm Deluxe. I set it to
82 since I was advised that this is how to maintain the tempreture
around 79.

I also bought a Hagen floating glass thermometer to monitor the tempreture.

For a few weeks I noticed the thermometer would report temperature
fluctuations between 72 and 78.

I bought a second heater thinking that would help stabilize the
temperature. I got the Marineland Stealth heater (100 watts) after
noting it had good customer reviews.

I set both heaters at around 79-81. I noted that the temperature on the
glass thermometer read 73-75 - I achieved stability but the reading is
still out of my desired range.

I figured I get a more accurate thermometer so I got 2 digital
thermometers (Coralife brand) and I placed them at either ends of the
the tank. They reported 82 and 83 F respectively. This is while the
glass thermometer was reporting 73 F.

I find this very confusing and I am not sure what to make of it.

The fish (clown fish, scooter blenny and green clown goby ) are doing
well and so are the xenias, frogspawn corals and mushrooms. The
invertebrates are also doing well, although I recently found a dead
snail but I am not sure what to make of it. I am maintaining SG at
1.023-1.024 and all other water parameters are within recommended range.

Thanks,
Hussam
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18592 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: What do silver dollars eat?
Romaine does by the way.

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

What was being fed by the person or store you purchased them from?

This would be a good place to start. You might try hanging some lettuce in the tank, and see if they will take that. They do sell special lettuce hangers for the marine folk, but just use one of those springy type clothes pins to hang it until you know you will be using it enough to spend the money on the contraption they sell. I think Romaine lettuce is the choice for marines--it may have more nutrients than the common iceberg lettuce.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18593 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray/Harry and whomever else
Hi Jennifer, Not knowing all that much about reptiles, I can't really
comment too much on this portion of your post, by I would like to
remind you that often, by doing things through trial and error, it is
the "error" that teaches us (that our first way to go was wrong),
possibly resulting in the loss of our fish. Rather than have the
beginner lose fish unnecessarily and get discouraged to the point of
maybe leaving the hobby, we here as a group would rather offer the
information that would prevent such possible disasters (which can
rerally happen).

You can, as you are finding out, add fish to a freshly set up tank
within hours (or minutes) of filling it with the right temperature and
pH water, with no immediate consequence. However, I do not recommend
this for the unsuspecting beginner who may not know what to expect of
the tank in the very near future (upcpming weeks). On this same
subject, I do not disagree with Harry's methods, but only his
intentions to advise these unsuspecting beginners that its totally safe
to do this.

Many beginners never heard of the nitrogen cycle and were never advised
of it. I don't know how large your fish are (if you mentioned their
size, I missed it), but with putting several small fish in a newly set
up 55 gallon aquarium, it is similar to how you would start the cycle
using several expendable fish (which may or may not die), and you will
not see any noticeable change right away -- the fish right now will be
fine, swimming in totally ammonia and nitrite free water.

What the beginner (and you, if you're not aware of it) needs to know is
that without any ammonia-converting bacteria in the system in the
beginning, the ammonia level will slowly build up and peak after about
10 days; essentially cycling as you go along. This can be lethal if
allowed to build up beyond the fish's ability to cope with it and
monitoring of this substance by testing should be carried out as the
cycle progresses with the possibility of changing out water if the
ammonia gets too high. In approximately another 10 days after the
ammonia spike, the nitrites will peak for the same reason -- there were
no (or extremely few) nitrite-converting bacteria in the tank in the
beginning and as a result the nitrite now has the ability to build up
unchecked, which is even more poisonous to your fish. So just in case
you are not aware of these facts, be prepared for this and test your
water as the cycle progresses, being ready to change out some water if
it becomes necessary. I wouldn't want to see you lose your fish. Too,
I'd like to point out that after each peak, the levels will subside as
the bacteria populations catch up with converting this waste. This all
takes time. If the beginner adds too much of a fish load by either
putting in too large a fish or too many, it can spell disaster if
you're cycling the tank by the seat of your pants as you go along, and
frequent large water changes (extending the cycling time) will be
needed to keep up with trying to make things liveable for the fish.

Glad to see you've at least done some research. That's a step in the
right direction that all too few beginners take. I would like to point
out however, that any research on Google (while much of it being
factual), should be taken with a grain of salt as all too much of
what's on there are notations put forth by "wannabee's" who have never
tested their "facts" but are just repeating what another "wannabee" has
already said. The beginner may not know the difference, but advice can
always be offered here if just asked. Some good books on the subject
is one of the best ways to go. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jennifer" <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all
>
> I agree with Harry. Having been in a similar situation but not with
> fish but with an Iguana which was only two months old when I got it.
> If I would have waited and did what some of the people in that group
> said he would be dead by now! I do what I think is best and is best
> learned by trial and error. I would never do anything to harm any
> living creature. Although if a person does not do research you are
> hurting that creature. Yesterday when I filled the 55 gallon tank and
> treated the water I had put the fish in it within an hour or two I
> cant really remember but I know it was not two months. I am not
> disagreeing with anyone but I feel after having done my own research
> that I made the right choice and so far the fish are doing great! I
> will let you all know how they are doing in another week and then
> another after that.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18594 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray
Harry, Thanks for acknowledging the merits of my points. I can't
blame you for not wanting to wait 2 months waiting for a tank to
cycle, if you know what to expect by adding fish to the tanks early.
It does seem "ridiculously" long to have to wait this out, but I
maintain it is the only sure-safe way to go for the uninformed and/or
uneducated beginner. While you and I know that the aspiring aquarist
should, before doing anything else, educate him(or her)self as to at
the very least the maintenance of the aquarium and its related
processes. There are those, who have the keen enough interest, who
want to learn all there is to know about there fish. However, all
too often, the interested beginner hobbyist just wants to quickly get
a tank going and watch fish, not knowing what's involved and/or not
even being aware that there is so much more to it that he should have
thought to first read up on it which of course he didn't.

This is part of the reason we are here, as undoubtedly sooner or
later there will be someone posting as to why they are having all
these problem, and are about to give up. For this reason, I'm saying
that they should not be advised to take short cuts, but instead be
informed of all they need to know to have success. IF, and only IF,
a shortcut is recommended, than a FULL explanation of both procedures
and any possible consequences/drawbacks should be spelled out,
instead of just saying you can dump your fish in your tank right
away. All to many unsuspecting (of the consequences) beginner
hobbyists start out right away with the full compliment of fish they
want to keep in their tank. I don't need to remind you of the
probable results of that.

Yes, all the methods you outlined below will work, but you did not
even refer to any of them when you said waiting 6 weeks was not
necessary. Often, the professional aquarium maintenance folks may
use BioSpira or at the very least they know what to expect from their
actions. Yes, I certainly know in many circumstances that cycling is
not always completely necessary. FYI, I do the same as you (and I
know what to expect), but I would not recommend this procedure to a
beginner who wouldn't know what to expect. I guess that brings us
back to . . . "whatever works for you," but that's no reason to tell
some beginner to do it unless everything is properly explained to
them. Regards, Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> Great post with some great points. Thank you. However I'm still not
going to wait 2 months for a tank to cycle when their are much
quicker methods that the "beginners" should know about. Our duty to
the beginners??? They are not children, why should we treat them as
such I.E. "they need to learn the right way" Their is no right way.
Bio Spira, ammonia, fish, fish food it all works. I didn't say
cycling a tank is a myth but cycling a tank for two months is
ridiculous and simple not necessary. You and I both know this. Why
keep it a secret.?
>
> If it were necessary to cycle a tank for two months how could the
professional aquarium maintenance folks survive?. Their livelihood
depends on keeping fish alive and I don't think their customers are
going to stare at an empty tank for two months. While the algae grows.
>
> If you not a "cruising goggle expert" then I consider you and the
other folks you mentioned to be valuable members of this group.
Thank you very much for you help.
>
> P.S. Glad to hear I'm not the oldest in the group.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Harry
>
> Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
wrote: Hi Harry, While your reply
on this subject was not directed to me,
> but to Jennifer (and later to Steve), I can't help but add some
> comment here since you seem to be addressing what I've already
> recommended for her.
>
> First, I'd like to mention that I respect you as a moderator here
and
> recognize your knowledge and experience, although that in itself
does
> not make you any more knowledgeable than some of the rest of us.
> Certainly, being the owner of several groups does not qualify
anyone
> to believe their methods are necessarily the best methods or the
only
> way to go, but again I can respect your enthusiasm in these
> undertakings of owning a few groups. Just like Steve and
yourself, I
> too have taken shortcuts, knowing they will work for me. This is
not
> to say that such practices should be recommended or encouraged for
> the beginner. As a moderator of a group of this kind you, above
all
> else, you should realize this.
>
> The question was not what you would do or how you feel about the
> nitrogen cycle and it's proponents, or whether you feel its a
> complete waste to go through it, but about the length of time the
> cycle should take (from a beginner); this group member was at
least
> aware of the cycle but did not know the details of it.
>
> I realize you are totally familiar with the nitrogen cycle which,
if
> allowed to be completed, is the safest (if not the fastest) way to
> start a tank for the beginner, before adding a fish load, as I'm
sure
> you must agree if you are at all acquainted with its process. As
> such questions as this are coming from those people who are new to
> the hobby, the safest and best methods for them resulting in the
most
> success as they get started should be of paramount importance.
>
> BTW, some of us here who happen to have a little more knowledge
and
> are able to help the beginners are not merely "cruising" these
> groups, but have every intention to remain permanent Group
members,
> as they have been since our joining, with every intention in
focusing
> their efforts, and willing to give their time and expertise, to
those
> who need it in hopes it will help them succeed, and I'm not only
> referring to myself. Without the input from such knowledgeable
> members as Sissy, Steve and several others who contribute their
> knowledge, where would this group be to help the less informed out?
>
> If you would note, I mentioned the possible use of BioSpira which,
> although a bit on the expensive side, will speed things up for the
> less patient beginner. Clear household ammonia was also brought
up,
> which most of us know about and can speed things up without
risking
> the livestock, albeit, taking somewhat longer. While I agree that
> the multi-billion dollar fish industry is always looking for a
niche
> to exploit, the nitrogen cycle is no less real and is not a myth,
but
> an established fact.
>
> Our best interests should be with the beginning hobbyists such as
> Donna (Ransome) and others like her who appreciate this input and
> whom we can steer in the right direction for her successful
> continuance in the hobby.
>
> Noticed your 45 years in the hobby. FYI, I've been doing this
since
> I've been 8 and I'm 67 now, so what does that mean (besides having
14
> years on you)? I'm pleased to be able to say that I'm personal
> friends with some older and wiser leading aquarium hobbyists in
the
> country (some would say in the world), any one of whom has far
more
> fish keeping knowledge than all of us on this group combined. On
> more than one occassion, they have confided in me that they still
> have much to learn (yes, they occassionally lose fish, but not
> through "conventional" causes), and while we think of them as
> experts, they don't feel that in the least. With 59 years of
> experience though, I don't need to use Google except as a quick
> double-check on something in rare instances (sometimes finding it
> wrong), which I would not recommend for anyone anyway for fish
> matters (unless they already know something), as many of those
sites
> are often just repetitions of the same erroneous information. Its
> very easy to spot a so-called "expert" poster -- his knowledge (or
> lack of) becomes self-evident very fast.
>
> I maintain that we should not encourage practices which may be
able
> to be used only after experience has been gained, but instead
promote
> what will work best for the inexperienced and budding hobbyist,
which
> will not have the possibility of creating disappointing problems.
> While methods such as yours will work with your experience, to
which
> I concur, in the interests of the beginners, there is too much
room
> for failure for the neophyte to experience which we want to
avoid.
> As you had said . . . "you do what works for you." In which case,
> please don't try to persuade others who are just starting out to
> avoid cycling their tank. If they don't learn the cycle, sooner
or
> later it will catch up with them, if not with this tank, then
maybe
> their next. We don't need potential disasters somewhere down the
> road which may cause them to bail out. Best Regards, Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php.
Then
> I would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks
or
> even 2 weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I
have
> always set up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding
> stress coat and stress zyne and the fish I want.
> >
> > I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
> >
> > Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise
> these groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and
I
> using Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost
any
> fish on a start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61
> now. One "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now.
> Enjoy the hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to
> hear are simple myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
> fish industry.
> >
> > How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If
you
> want to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine,
I
> wouldn't. It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.
> >
> > Harry
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Jennifer <greeniguana_12@>
> wrote: Hello everyone,
> >
> > I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an
aquarium
> > should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too
long?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone
call rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18595 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question
She could be egg bound, and my require a male to stemulate her to release them. No they don't need to be full grown to spawn. Personally I have never seen a 10" BM. From my experance they will start spawning the next spring regardless of size.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Black moor was/ Eclipse Lighting & Filtration System question


Jenn shes not pregnaunt but she might be egg bearing which she cant do anything about unless there is a male, the tank is at it specific needs, the ph is correct for that species not 7.0. Now sissy dont they have to be full grown which is 10" to be breedable? They dont have a gestation period. As if leading the light on thats your desgestion.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
Thank you so much! Yes it helps. Well in doing my research on these
fish I read that the female is well for the lack of better words
bigger and rounder than the male. As of right now I have not seen the
Tubercles. She seems to be getting fatter though. She was in a tank
when I bought her with a lot of her own kind so I am thinking that if
she is pregnant she could have been that way when I got her. After I
bought the second Black Moor that is when I read that the males are
smaller in size and not as round which leads to think that I either
have a male and a female or just a female and a juvenile? But I could
not find anything on the gestation period? Also, do fish need a photo
period? I mean my iguana needs a photoperiod of 12/12 or 12/13 12
hours of light and 12 hours of dark etc.....?


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18596 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
Okay, will do, but the two I have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same place.
><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off, swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
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>
>
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>


Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18597 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
I have had male guppies actually kill other male guppies. I'm not sure if it's a stress thing or they are somewhat territorial. I have also had male guppies go after male bettas. If they are fancy fantail guppies, it might be a "motion" thing. It was with the betta. Cory


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18598 From: snerticus Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Ray
Ray, this is exactly what I was going to say! (In different words of
course).

I personally don't want to start off quickly, and don't consider 2
months a long wait either, but everyone's different. I once had an
80 gal reef tank, it took almost a year to cycle properly. Once it
had cycled, I did not do a water change in 2 1/2 years! Honestly.
The corals, inverts and fish all thrived. No losses except for the
giant clams - I could never keep those very well. All others though -
hard corals, soft corals, sea stars, cucumbers, shrimps, crabs,
worms, etc (even a sea spider) and fish did very well. I did add
supplements reguarly and was a test "freak" as I tested every day and
sometimes multiple times a day.

Before this, I tried cycling the tank quickly with the products that
were on the market at the time. While it began smoothly and I could
add fish almost immediately ( the rock cured for about a month before
I added the products). After a relatively short time, I ran into
problems with fish and shrimp dying, or the parameters of the water
allowed disgusting red algae to overtake the tank, or some other
things went wrong. This even after I'd spent about 15 years in the
hobby and thought I new enough about cycling. I had both fresh and
saltwater tanks before this. I figured, just leave the tank alone
for a while (which actually turne out to be longer than initially
planning) and after approx. one year, I found the balance and kept it
that way. To me, this really was not exceptionally long, as I'd
learned a heck of a lot during that time.

That being said, I know may people of this day and age want a "quick-
fix" and want it yesterday. As mentioned by someone else, even
putting products that instantly populate the aquarium with all that
is needed for a "fully cycled tank" doesn't mean that the tank is
fully cycled as soon as you add it. You still need to monitor the
parameters and things could still go wrong. It still takes time for
the bacteria to establish the way nature intended. Nothing is wrong
with telling people how to do it quickly, but more needs to be
mentioned because that newb that just set up his tank may only read
that one post in answer to his question and we need to include as
much as possible in it so they understand as fully as possible what
happens to a tank once you add water.

I remember a teacher saying he felt sorry for the people who did
their work and got it right the first time... they usually thought
they were experts at it because nothing went wrong. (I've fallen
into this trap more times than I'd like to admit.) He said when
something happens (as it eventually will) days, months or even years
down the road, they won't understand why. All because they did it
right the first time. I'm not saying people should have disasters
first in order to learn, but we should try and explain the
ramifications of doing things a little quicker than would normally
take without the artificial help. I think I would have appreciated
that when I was first learning about keeping fish. Unfortunatley,
for the first 10 or so years of fishkeeping, it was all by trial and
error, and reading a few books and magazines. I tried the quick
fixes, and also gave up on them when they didn't work the way I'd
heard they did. I also waited, sometimes with disasters as well.
All in all, I think we need to let them know it's not an easy
undertaking to keep fish - although those who "did it right the first
time" may not agree! :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Harry, Thanks for acknowledging the merits of my points. I can't
> blame you for not wanting to wait 2 months waiting for a tank to
> cycle, if you know what to expect by adding fish to the tanks
early.
> It does seem "ridiculously" long to have to wait this out, but I
> maintain it is the only sure-safe way to go for the uninformed
and/or
> uneducated beginner. While you and I know that the aspiring
aquarist
> should, before doing anything else, educate him(or her)self as to
at
> the very least the maintenance of the aquarium and its related
> processes. There are those, who have the keen enough interest, who
> want to learn all there is to know about there fish. However, all
> too often, the interested beginner hobbyist just wants to quickly
get
> a tank going and watch fish, not knowing what's involved and/or not
> even being aware that there is so much more to it that he should
have
> thought to first read up on it which of course he didn't.
>
> This is part of the reason we are here, as undoubtedly sooner or
> later there will be someone posting as to why they are having all
> these problem, and are about to give up. For this reason, I'm
saying
> that they should not be advised to take short cuts, but instead be
> informed of all they need to know to have success. IF, and only
IF,
> a shortcut is recommended, than a FULL explanation of both
procedures
> and any possible consequences/drawbacks should be spelled out,
> instead of just saying you can dump your fish in your tank right
> away. All to many unsuspecting (of the consequences) beginner
> hobbyists start out right away with the full compliment of fish
they
> want to keep in their tank. I don't need to remind you of the
> probable results of that.
>
> Yes, all the methods you outlined below will work, but you did not
> even refer to any of them when you said waiting 6 weeks was not
> necessary. Often, the professional aquarium maintenance folks may
> use BioSpira or at the very least they know what to expect from
their
> actions. Yes, I certainly know in many circumstances that cycling
is
> not always completely necessary. FYI, I do the same as you (and I
> know what to expect), but I would not recommend this procedure to a
> beginner who wouldn't know what to expect. I guess that brings us
> back to . . . "whatever works for you," but that's no reason to
tell
> some beginner to do it unless everything is properly explained to
> them. Regards, Ray
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18599 From: chris topher Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
i picture poor jennifer cowering in a corner somewhere
wondering what she started...

jennifer?...has your question been answered to your
satisfaction?

may have seemed like a simple question, but there are
obviously several answers depending on which technique
you wish to employ...

woody


--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> You dont tell someone not to listen to this person
> or that person. We are all giving our opions here to
> help out. This done through knowledge, know how,
> training, reading and learning from mistakes. We
> arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once
> is a shamless act.
>
> harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
> I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try
> to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping
> fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I
> see something that could be approved upon I will
> speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I
> just read a post from a professional aquarium
> maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves
> fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months
> for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: Well I
> have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont
> get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite
> the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge
> them to take it one step at a time. Going against
> pples knowledge is not helping you should think what
> is best for the fish.
>
> harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: As a
> moderator here I have read your posts over the years
> and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I
> appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable
> member of this group. Your post was right on
> target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods
> are the right way? How do you know? My methods are
> based on experience also. I am well aware of the
> nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of
> several groups I am also aware that beginners will
> be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8
> weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the
> experience to know this is not necessary. What are
> you thoughts on this. I totally respect your
> opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: HEAR, HEAR
> Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> Harry,
>
> The real experts here are not relying on Google,
> except maybe to quickly
> check a fact or two. They are writing from there own
> personal experience
> as well as reading they have done on various topics.
> Google may be used
> to give online references to topics under
> discussion--I've done that,
> but mainly because I realize that most do not have
> the library that I do
> for reference, and need something quick and easy to
> access for
> information.
>
> The wannabes do not seem to last here very long,
> Google or not.
>
> While you may have been successful with your
> methods, they are not for
> everyone. One should learn how to do things the
> right way prior to
> taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the
> hobby, and have
> been successful , but I have also failed. It is up
> to people like you
> and myself and a few others here to make sure the
> new people get started
> on the right foot, and get to the point where they
> can then play the
> odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would
> like them to be
> successful from the word go so they may be around in
> 50 years helping
> those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> the outset, and the
> person is lost to the hobby forever.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of harry perry
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> I would first go here
> http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
> would use common sense. Personally I have never
> waited 6 weeks or even 2
> weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my
> opinion. I have always set
> up my tanks using over filtration, live plants,
> adding stress coat and
> stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts"
> who cruise these
> groups. They are nothing more than just folks like
> you and I using
> Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have
> never lost any fish on a
> start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm
> 61 now. One
> "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute
> now. Enjoy the
> hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are
> going to hear are simple
> myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
> fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works
> for you. If you want
> to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to
> cycle fine, I wouldn't.
> It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your
> fish.
>
> Harry
>
> Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three
> days too long?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make
> PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18600 From: chris topher Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
if they are both males i would suggest adding some
females, i try to keep at least two females for every
male livebearer...

in my 10gal guppy tank i have 2 males and 5 females,
nice thing is you can find prettier female guppies
than used to be availible...

woody


--- jfazio <jfazio@...> wrote:

> Hi All:
>
> I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled
> aquarium. The one I got
> first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new
> guppy. I put a
> partition in, but then all they wanted to do was
> approach one another from
> their side of the net. Two days later, I've let
> them be together, and if
> one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the
> older one chasing the
> new one), then the tables reverse with the new one
> chasing back. This
> isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut
> each other off, swim
> above and below one another, but nobody seems to be
> biting or anything like
> that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that
> they will hurt each
> other? They are two different types of male
> guppies.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we:
> prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
> 207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
> jfazio@...
> []
>
> "Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18601 From: Keri Kimball Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Guppie Breeding
Plants, lots and lots of plants. I even have plants floating on the top I have babies hiding in the plants and suriving. You have to have places for the babies to have. Unfortuantly I have more molly babies than any others so far.

Keri

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
LIvebearing males are horny devils they are always trying to mate you just got to make sure they have a gonopodium.

jules27au <jules27au@...> wrote: Hello,

Can anyone help out with advice on breeding guppies in a community
fish tank, which has gouramies, silver dollars, neons, a tetra, a
catfish, sharks, loach & tiger barbs?

Many thanks

Jules


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18602 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if there are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same place.
><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off, swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>---------------------------------
>How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18603 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice
I am beginning to HATE keeping this school tank I am doing. Does
anyone have any advice, tips, etc... to offer regarding taking care of a
tank that you only have access to once a week? I can see it twice a
week but that's difficult to do.

I added driftwood to this tank last week. I soaked it forEVER until no
more brown water resulted from it. One week later, I go in to do
maintenance and the water is the color of COFFEE. It was awful! AND
the kissing gourami had ick and is now dead.

All four cory cats croaked. One was left in there unnoticed so there's
no telling what that resulted in.

Since this gourami had ick, should I treat the whole tank so none of the
other fish get it? I turned up the heat a bit, it should be around 80
F. But I'm not at all comfortable not being able to keep an eye on it.
The water tests were all fine.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18604 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Hey there Woody

As far as my question being answered I guess depending on I looked at it it was answered in many different ways? But as I said before I am a very hard headed person and usually although seeking advice wind up doing what I want to do anyway. But thanks for asking and thinking of me! LOL

chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
i picture poor jennifer cowering in a corner somewhere
wondering what she started...

jennifer?...has your question been answered to your
satisfaction?

may have seemed like a simple question, but there are
obviously several answers depending on which technique
you wish to employ...

woody


--- Joseph Reid wrote:

> You dont tell someone not to listen to this person
> or that person. We are all giving our opions here to
> help out. This done through knowledge, know how,
> training, reading and learning from mistakes. We
> arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once
> is a shamless act.
>
> harry perry wrote:
> I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try
> to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping
> fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I
> see something that could be approved upon I will
> speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I
> just read a post from a professional aquarium
> maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves
> fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months
> for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Joseph Reid wrote: Well I
> have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont
> get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite
> the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge
> them to take it one step at a time. Going against
> pples knowledge is not helping you should think what
> is best for the fish.
>
> harry perry wrote: As a
> moderator here I have read your posts over the years
> and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I
> appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable
> member of this group. Your post was right on
> target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods
> are the right way? How do you know? My methods are
> based on experience also. I am well aware of the
> nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of
> several groups I am also aware that beginners will
> be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8
> weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the
> experience to know this is not necessary. What are
> you thoughts on this. I totally respect your
> opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Sissy Sathre wrote: HEAR, HEAR
> Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> Harry,
>
> The real experts here are not relying on Google,
> except maybe to quickly
> check a fact or two. They are writing from there own
> personal experience
> as well as reading they have done on various topics.
> Google may be used
> to give online references to topics under
> discussion--I've done that,
> but mainly because I realize that most do not have
> the library that I do
> for reference, and need something quick and easy to
> access for
> information.
>
> The wannabes do not seem to last here very long,
> Google or not.
>
> While you may have been successful with your
> methods, they are not for
> everyone. One should learn how to do things the
> right way prior to
> taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the
> hobby, and have
> been successful , but I have also failed. It is up
> to people like you
> and myself and a few others here to make sure the
> new people get started
> on the right foot, and get to the point where they
> can then play the
> odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would
> like them to be
> successful from the word go so they may be around in
> 50 years helping
> those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> the outset, and the
> person is lost to the hobby forever.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of harry perry
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> I would first go here
> http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
> would use common sense. Personally I have never
> waited 6 weeks or even 2
> weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my
> opinion. I have always set
> up my tanks using over filtration, live plants,
> adding stress coat and
> stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts"
> who cruise these
> groups. They are nothing more than just folks like
> you and I using
> Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have
> never lost any fish on a
> start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm
> 61 now. One
> "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute
> now. Enjoy the
> hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are
> going to hear are simple
> myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
> fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works
> for you. If you want
> to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to
> cycle fine, I wouldn't.
> It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your
> fish.
>
> Harry
>
> Jennifer wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three
> days too long?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make
> PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18605 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
Wow! Nothing like getting everyone all wild up and then saying just kiddin lol.

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hey there Woody

As far as my question being answered I guess depending on I looked at it it was answered in many different ways? But as I said before I am a very hard headed person and usually although seeking advice wind up doing what I want to do anyway. But thanks for asking and thinking of me! LOL

chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
i picture poor jennifer cowering in a corner somewhere
wondering what she started...

jennifer?...has your question been answered to your
satisfaction?

may have seemed like a simple question, but there are
obviously several answers depending on which technique
you wish to employ...

woody

--- Joseph Reid wrote:

> You dont tell someone not to listen to this person
> or that person. We are all giving our opions here to
> help out. This done through knowledge, know how,
> training, reading and learning from mistakes. We
> arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once
> is a shamless act.
>
> harry perry wrote:
> I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try
> to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping
> fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I
> see something that could be approved upon I will
> speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I
> just read a post from a professional aquarium
> maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves
> fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months
> for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Joseph Reid wrote: Well I
> have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont
> get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite
> the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge
> them to take it one step at a time. Going against
> pples knowledge is not helping you should think what
> is best for the fish.
>
> harry perry wrote: As a
> moderator here I have read your posts over the years
> and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I
> appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable
> member of this group. Your post was right on
> target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods
> are the right way? How do you know? My methods are
> based on experience also. I am well aware of the
> nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of
> several groups I am also aware that beginners will
> be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8
> weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the
> experience to know this is not necessary. What are
> you thoughts on this. I totally respect your
> opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Sissy Sathre wrote: HEAR, HEAR
> Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> Harry,
>
> The real experts here are not relying on Google,
> except maybe to quickly
> check a fact or two. They are writing from there own
> personal experience
> as well as reading they have done on various topics.
> Google may be used
> to give online references to topics under
> discussion--I've done that,
> but mainly because I realize that most do not have
> the library that I do
> for reference, and need something quick and easy to
> access for
> information.
>
> The wannabes do not seem to last here very long,
> Google or not.
>
> While you may have been successful with your
> methods, they are not for
> everyone. One should learn how to do things the
> right way prior to
> taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the
> hobby, and have
> been successful , but I have also failed. It is up
> to people like you
> and myself and a few others here to make sure the
> new people get started
> on the right foot, and get to the point where they
> can then play the
> odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would
> like them to be
> successful from the word go so they may be around in
> 50 years helping
> those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> the outset, and the
> person is lost to the hobby forever.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of harry perry
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> I would first go here
> http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
> would use common sense. Personally I have never
> waited 6 weeks or even 2
> weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my
> opinion. I have always set
> up my tanks using over filtration, live plants,
> adding stress coat and
> stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts"
> who cruise these
> groups. They are nothing more than just folks like
> you and I using
> Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have
> never lost any fish on a
> start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm
> 61 now. One
> "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute
> now. Enjoy the
> hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are
> going to hear are simple
> myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
> fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works
> for you. If you want
> to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to
> cycle fine, I wouldn't.
> It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your
> fish.
>
> Harry
>
> Jennifer wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three
> days too long?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make
> PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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Yahoo! Groups Links

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Also hoping to help promote this group
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18606 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe/again
Ok guys.....For one I am not going to give up on my new babies! I have never really given up on anything that I have started. So now through all of these posts about the cycling of an aquarium have all seen the different methods that you all use and so far in the week that I have been doing this it seems that everyones way is the right way! So guys, let's play nice if we are to play together at all? CANT WE ALL JUST GET ALONG?!!! Really though, I appreciate everyone who responded and I thank you all for the new found knowledge that I have gained from this whole ordeal.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: I'm not going going to fight with you here. Let's take it off list. If you got the......... well you know.

Harry

Joseph Reid wrote: You dont tell someone not to listen to this person or that person. We are all giving our opions here to help out. This done through knowledge, know how, training, reading and learning from mistakes. We arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once is a shamless act.

harry perry wrote: I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I see something that could be approved upon I will speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I just read a post from a professional aquarium maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.

Harry

Joseph Reid wrote: Well I have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge them to take it one step at a time. Going against pples knowledge is not helping you should think what is best for the fish.

harry perry wrote: As a moderator here I have read your posts over the years and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable member of this group. Your post was right on target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods are the right way? How do you know? My methods are based on experience also. I am well aware of the nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of several groups I am also aware that beginners will be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8 weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the experience to know this is not necessary. What are you thoughts on this. I totally respect your opinion.

Harry

Sissy Sathre wrote: HEAR, HEAR Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/







---------------------------------
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18607 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Joseph
Joseph,

You need to think a little more before hitting that send button so
often.

I know what Jennifer meant as I do the same thing. You get peoples
opinions, read through their experiences then relate them to your own.
Decipher amongst them what would work best to your particular situation
then go from there. The answer to a problem is very often a combination
of different answers placed into one good solution for that situation.
I know, I've been there.

And if she already had an idea as to what she could do for her
situation, it may very well have been confirmed for her here therefore
giving her the affirmation she was looking for to act on it. I've been
there too.

So she did NOT say "just kiddin" at all.

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 6:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe



Wow! Nothing like getting everyone all wild up and then saying just
kiddin lol.

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_ <mailto:greeniguana_12%40yahoo.com>
12@...> wrote: Hey there Woody

As far as my question being answered I guess depending on I looked at it
it was answered in many different ways? But as I said before I am a very
hard headed person and usually although seeking advice wind up doing
what I want to do anyway. But thanks for asking and thinking of me! LOL

chris topher <humbottom@yahoo. <mailto:humbottom%40yahoo.com> com>
wrote:
i picture poor jennifer cowering in a corner somewhere
wondering what she started...

jennifer?...has your question been answered to your
satisfaction?

may have seemed like a simple question, but there are
obviously several answers depending on which technique
you wish to employ...

woody

--- Joseph Reid wrote:

> You dont tell someone not to listen to this person
> or that person. We are all giving our opions here to
> help out. This done through knowledge, know how,
> training, reading and learning from mistakes. We
> arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once
> is a shamless act.
>
> harry perry wrote:
> I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try
> to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping
> fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I
> see something that could be approved upon I will
> speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I
> just read a post from a professional aquarium
> maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves
> fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months
> for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Joseph Reid wrote: Well I
> have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont
> get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite
> the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge
> them to take it one step at a time. Going against
> pples knowledge is not helping you should think what
> is best for the fish.
>
> harry perry wrote: As a
> moderator here I have read your posts over the years
> and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I
> appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable
> member of this group. Your post was right on
> target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods
> are the right way? How do you know? My methods are
> based on experience also. I am well aware of the
> nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of
> several groups I am also aware that beginners will
> be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8
> weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the
> experience to know this is not necessary. What are
> you thoughts on this. I totally respect your
> opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Sissy Sathre wrote: HEAR, HEAR
> Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> Harry,
>
> The real experts here are not relying on Google,
> except maybe to quickly
> check a fact or two. They are writing from there own
> personal experience
> as well as reading they have done on various topics.
> Google may be used
> to give online references to topics under
> discussion--I've done that,
> but mainly because I realize that most do not have
> the library that I do
> for reference, and need something quick and easy to
> access for
> information.
>
> The wannabes do not seem to last here very long,
> Google or not.
>
> While you may have been successful with your
> methods, they are not for
> everyone. One should learn how to do things the
> right way prior to
> taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the
> hobby, and have
> been successful , but I have also failed. It is up
> to people like you
> and myself and a few others here to make sure the
> new people get started
> on the right foot, and get to the point where they
> can then play the
> odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would
> like them to be
> successful from the word go so they may be around in
> 50 years helping
> those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> the outset, and the
> person is lost to the hobby forever.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of harry perry
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> I would first go here
> http://www.firsttan <http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php.>
kguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
> would use common sense. Personally I have never
> waited 6 weeks or even 2
> weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my
> opinion. I have always set
> up my tanks using over filtration, live plants,
> adding stress coat and
> stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts"
> who cruise these
> groups. They are nothing more than just folks like
> you and I using
> Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have
> never lost any fish on a
> start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm
> 61 now. One
> "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute
> now. Enjoy the
> hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are
> going to hear are simple
> myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
> fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works
> for you. If you want
> to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to
> cycle fine, I wouldn't.
> It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your
> fish.
>
> Harry
>
> Jennifer wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three
> days too long?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make
> PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community. <http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12>
webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech. <http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/>
groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18608 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Joseph
I know was trying to break the tense that I might of caused by sending a little joke sorry if it was received the wrong way.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: Joseph,

You need to think a little more before hitting that send button so
often.

I know what Jennifer meant as I do the same thing. You get peoples
opinions, read through their experiences then relate them to your own.
Decipher amongst them what would work best to your particular situation
then go from there. The answer to a problem is very often a combination
of different answers placed into one good solution for that situation.
I know, I've been there.

And if she already had an idea as to what she could do for her
situation, it may very well have been confirmed for her here therefore
giving her the affirmation she was looking for to act on it. I've been
there too.

So she did NOT say "just kiddin" at all.

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 6:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe

Wow! Nothing like getting everyone all wild up and then saying just
kiddin lol.

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_ <mailto:greeniguana_12%40yahoo.com>
12@...> wrote: Hey there Woody

As far as my question being answered I guess depending on I looked at it
it was answered in many different ways? But as I said before I am a very
hard headed person and usually although seeking advice wind up doing
what I want to do anyway. But thanks for asking and thinking of me! LOL

chris topher <humbottom@yahoo. <mailto:humbottom%40yahoo.com> com>
wrote:
i picture poor jennifer cowering in a corner somewhere
wondering what she started...

jennifer?...has your question been answered to your
satisfaction?

may have seemed like a simple question, but there are
obviously several answers depending on which technique
you wish to employ...

woody

--- Joseph Reid wrote:

> You dont tell someone not to listen to this person
> or that person. We are all giving our opions here to
> help out. This done through knowledge, know how,
> training, reading and learning from mistakes. We
> arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once
> is a shamless act.
>
> harry perry wrote:
> I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try
> to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping
> fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I
> see something that could be approved upon I will
> speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I
> just read a post from a professional aquarium
> maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves
> fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months
> for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Joseph Reid wrote: Well I
> have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont
> get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite
> the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge
> them to take it one step at a time. Going against
> pples knowledge is not helping you should think what
> is best for the fish.
>
> harry perry wrote: As a
> moderator here I have read your posts over the years
> and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I
> appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable
> member of this group. Your post was right on
> target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods
> are the right way? How do you know? My methods are
> based on experience also. I am well aware of the
> nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of
> several groups I am also aware that beginners will
> be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8
> weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the
> experience to know this is not necessary. What are
> you thoughts on this. I totally respect your
> opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Sissy Sathre wrote: HEAR, HEAR
> Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> Harry,
>
> The real experts here are not relying on Google,
> except maybe to quickly
> check a fact or two. They are writing from there own
> personal experience
> as well as reading they have done on various topics.
> Google may be used
> to give online references to topics under
> discussion--I've done that,
> but mainly because I realize that most do not have
> the library that I do
> for reference, and need something quick and easy to
> access for
> information.
>
> The wannabes do not seem to last here very long,
> Google or not.
>
> While you may have been successful with your
> methods, they are not for
> everyone. One should learn how to do things the
> right way prior to
> taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the
> hobby, and have
> been successful , but I have also failed. It is up
> to people like you
> and myself and a few others here to make sure the
> new people get started
> on the right foot, and get to the point where they
> can then play the
> odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would
> like them to be
> successful from the word go so they may be around in
> 50 years helping
> those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> the outset, and the
> person is lost to the hobby forever.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of harry perry
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> I would first go here
> http://www.firsttan <http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php.>
kguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
> would use common sense. Personally I have never
> waited 6 weeks or even 2
> weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my
> opinion. I have always set
> up my tanks using over filtration, live plants,
> adding stress coat and
> stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts"
> who cruise these
> groups. They are nothing more than just folks like
> you and I using
> Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have
> never lost any fish on a
> start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm
> 61 now. One
> "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute
> now. Enjoy the
> hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are
> going to hear are simple
> myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
> fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works
> for you. If you want
> to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to
> cycle fine, I wouldn't.
> It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your
> fish.
>
> Harry
>
> Jennifer wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three
> days too long?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make
> PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18609 From: chris topher Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe
: )

good to know, you just had seemed to drop out of the
loop there for a little while...

woody


--- Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote:

> Hey there Woody
>
> As far as my question being answered I guess
> depending on I looked at it it was answered in many
> different ways? But as I said before I am a very
> hard headed person and usually although seeking
> advice wind up doing what I want to do anyway. But
> thanks for asking and thinking of me! LOL
>
> chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
> i picture poor jennifer cowering in a corner
> somewhere
> wondering what she started...
>
> jennifer?...has your question been answered to your
> satisfaction?
>
> may have seemed like a simple question, but there
> are
> obviously several answers depending on which
> technique
> you wish to employ...
>
> woody
>
>
> --- Joseph Reid wrote:
>
> > You dont tell someone not to listen to this person
> > or that person. We are all giving our opions here
> to
> > help out. This done through knowledge, know how,
> > training, reading and learning from mistakes. We
> > arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at
> once
> > is a shamless act.
> >
> > harry perry wrote:
> > I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try
> > to help them with my 45 years experience of
> keeping
> > fish. I like to think I learned something. but if
> I
> > see something that could be approved upon I will
> > speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I
> > just read a post from a professional aquarium
> > maintenance person who uses bio spira and then
> moves
> > fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months
> > for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my
> opinion.
> >
> > Harry
> >
> > Joseph Reid wrote: Well I
> > have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont
> > get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite
> > the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge
> > them to take it one step at a time. Going against
> > pples knowledge is not helping you should think
> what
> > is best for the fish.
> >
> > harry perry wrote: As a
> > moderator here I have read your posts over the
> years
> > and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I
> > appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable
> > member of this group. Your post was right on
> > target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your
> methods
> > are the right way? How do you know? My methods are
> > based on experience also. I am well aware of the
> > nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner
> of
> > several groups I am also aware that beginners will
> > be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8
> > weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the
> > experience to know this is not necessary. What are
> > you thoughts on this. I totally respect your
> > opinion.
> >
> > Harry
> >
> > Sissy Sathre wrote: HEAR, HEAR
> > Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Steve Szabo
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
> >
> > Harry,
> >
> > The real experts here are not relying on Google,
> > except maybe to quickly
> > check a fact or two. They are writing from there
> own
> > personal experience
> > as well as reading they have done on various
> topics.
> > Google may be used
> > to give online references to topics under
> > discussion--I've done that,
> > but mainly because I realize that most do not have
> > the library that I do
> > for reference, and need something quick and easy
> to
> > access for
> > information.
> >
> > The wannabes do not seem to last here very long,
> > Google or not.
> >
> > While you may have been successful with your
> > methods, they are not for
> > everyone. One should learn how to do things the
> > right way prior to
> > taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in
> the
> > hobby, and have
> > been successful , but I have also failed. It is up
> > to people like you
> > and myself and a few others here to make sure the
> > new people get started
> > on the right foot, and get to the point where they
> > can then play the
> > odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would
> > like them to be
> > successful from the word go so they may be around
> in
> > 50 years helping
> > those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> > the outset, and the
> > person is lost to the hobby forever.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of harry perry
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
> >
> > I would first go here
> > http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
> > would use common sense. Personally I have never
> > waited 6 weeks or even 2
> > weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my
> > opinion. I have always set
> > up my tanks using over filtration, live plants,
> > adding stress coat and
> > stress zyne and the fish I want.
> >
> > I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
> >
> > Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts"
> > who cruise these
> > groups. They are nothing more than just folks like
> > you and I using
> > Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have
> > never lost any fish on a
> > start up. I have been doing this since I was 16
> I'm
> > 61 now. One
> > "expert" will wade in on this discussion any
> minute
> > now. Enjoy the
> > hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are
> > going to hear are simple
> > myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
> > fish industry.
> >
> > How do you know the difference ? you do what works
> > for you. If you want
> > to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to
> > cycle fine, I wouldn't.
> > It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your
> > fish.
> >
> > Harry
> >
> > Jennifer wrote:
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> > I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> > that an aquarium
> > should cycle before transferring the fish? Is
> three
> > days too long?
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> >
> > ---------------------------------
>
=== message truncated ===




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18610 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Joseph
Hello Leslie and Dane

I see that I got something started from a simple question? Well I am just going to leave the group and find another one I guess? And Leslie thank you for coming to my aide! You are absolutely right I never said " Just Kiddin"!

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
Joseph,

You need to think a little more before hitting that send button so
often.

I know what Jennifer meant as I do the same thing. You get peoples
opinions, read through their experiences then relate them to your own.
Decipher amongst them what would work best to your particular situation
then go from there. The answer to a problem is very often a combination
of different answers placed into one good solution for that situation.
I know, I've been there.

And if she already had an idea as to what she could do for her
situation, it may very well have been confirmed for her here therefore
giving her the affirmation she was looking for to act on it. I've been
there too.

So she did NOT say "just kiddin" at all.

Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 6:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe



Wow! Nothing like getting everyone all wild up and then saying just
kiddin lol.

Jennifer Kokoruda
12@...> wrote: Hey there Woody

As far as my question being answered I guess depending on I looked at it
it was answered in many different ways? But as I said before I am a very
hard headed person and usually although seeking advice wind up doing
what I want to do anyway. But thanks for asking and thinking of me! LOL

chris topher com>
wrote:
i picture poor jennifer cowering in a corner somewhere
wondering what she started...

jennifer?...has your question been answered to your
satisfaction?

may have seemed like a simple question, but there are
obviously several answers depending on which technique
you wish to employ...

woody

--- Joseph Reid wrote:

> You dont tell someone not to listen to this person
> or that person. We are all giving our opions here to
> help out. This done through knowledge, know how,
> training, reading and learning from mistakes. We
> arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once
> is a shamless act.
>
> harry perry wrote:
> I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try
> to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping
> fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I
> see something that could be approved upon I will
> speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I
> just read a post from a professional aquarium
> maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves
> fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months
> for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Joseph Reid wrote: Well I
> have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont
> get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite
> the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge
> them to take it one step at a time. Going against
> pples knowledge is not helping you should think what
> is best for the fish.
>
> harry perry wrote: As a
> moderator here I have read your posts over the years
> and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I
> appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable
> member of this group. Your post was right on
> target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods
> are the right way? How do you know? My methods are
> based on experience also. I am well aware of the
> nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of
> several groups I am also aware that beginners will
> be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8
> weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the
> experience to know this is not necessary. What are
> you thoughts on this. I totally respect your
> opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Sissy Sathre wrote: HEAR, HEAR
> Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> Harry,
>
> The real experts here are not relying on Google,
> except maybe to quickly
> check a fact or two. They are writing from there own
> personal experience
> as well as reading they have done on various topics.
> Google may be used
> to give online references to topics under
> discussion--I've done that,
> but mainly because I realize that most do not have
> the library that I do
> for reference, and need something quick and easy to
> access for
> information.
>
> The wannabes do not seem to last here very long,
> Google or not.
>
> While you may have been successful with your
> methods, they are not for
> everyone. One should learn how to do things the
> right way prior to
> taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the
> hobby, and have
> been successful , but I have also failed. It is up
> to people like you
> and myself and a few others here to make sure the
> new people get started
> on the right foot, and get to the point where they
> can then play the
> odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would
> like them to be
> successful from the word go so they may be around in
> 50 years helping
> those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> the outset, and the
> person is lost to the hobby forever.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of harry perry
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> I would first go here
> http://www.firsttan
kguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
> would use common sense. Personally I have never
> waited 6 weeks or even 2
> weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my
> opinion. I have always set
> up my tanks using over filtration, live plants,
> adding stress coat and
> stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts"
> who cruise these
> groups. They are nothing more than just folks like
> you and I using
> Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have
> never lost any fish on a
> start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm
> 61 now. One
> "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute
> now. Enjoy the
> hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are
> going to hear are simple
> myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
> fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works
> for you. If you want
> to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to
> cycle fine, I wouldn't.
> It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your
> fish.
>
> Harry
>
> Jennifer wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three
> days too long?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make
> PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. yahoo.com

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.
webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.
groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great
rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2¢/min or less.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18611 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Joseph
Just think if telling someone a (newby) that is that it takes two months to cycle a tank and hoping that they dont abandon the hobby just think what this string of posts would do to a newby?!

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: Joseph,

You need to think a little more before hitting that send button so
often.

I know what Jennifer meant as I do the same thing. You get peoples
opinions, read through their experiences then relate them to your own.
Decipher amongst them what would work best to your particular situation
then go from there. The answer to a problem is very often a combination
of different answers placed into one good solution for that situation.
I know, I've been there.

And if she already had an idea as to what she could do for her
situation, it may very well have been confirmed for her here therefore
giving her the affirmation she was looking for to act on it. I've been
there too.

So she did NOT say "just kiddin" at all.

Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 6:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe



Wow! Nothing like getting everyone all wild up and then saying just
kiddin lol.

Jennifer Kokoruda
12@...> wrote: Hey there Woody

As far as my question being answered I guess depending on I looked at it
it was answered in many different ways? But as I said before I am a very
hard headed person and usually although seeking advice wind up doing
what I want to do anyway. But thanks for asking and thinking of me! LOL

chris topher com>
wrote:
i picture poor jennifer cowering in a corner somewhere
wondering what she started...

jennifer?...has your question been answered to your
satisfaction?

may have seemed like a simple question, but there are
obviously several answers depending on which technique
you wish to employ...

woody

--- Joseph Reid wrote:

> You dont tell someone not to listen to this person
> or that person. We are all giving our opions here to
> help out. This done through knowledge, know how,
> training, reading and learning from mistakes. We
> arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once
> is a shamless act.
>
> harry perry wrote:
> I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try
> to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping
> fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I
> see something that could be approved upon I will
> speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I
> just read a post from a professional aquarium
> maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves
> fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months
> for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Joseph Reid wrote: Well I
> have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont
> get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite
> the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge
> them to take it one step at a time. Going against
> pples knowledge is not helping you should think what
> is best for the fish.
>
> harry perry wrote: As a
> moderator here I have read your posts over the years
> and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I
> appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable
> member of this group. Your post was right on
> target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods
> are the right way? How do you know? My methods are
> based on experience also. I am well aware of the
> nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of
> several groups I am also aware that beginners will
> be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8
> weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the
> experience to know this is not necessary. What are
> you thoughts on this. I totally respect your
> opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Sissy Sathre wrote: HEAR, HEAR
> Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> Harry,
>
> The real experts here are not relying on Google,
> except maybe to quickly
> check a fact or two. They are writing from there own
> personal experience
> as well as reading they have done on various topics.
> Google may be used
> to give online references to topics under
> discussion--I've done that,
> but mainly because I realize that most do not have
> the library that I do
> for reference, and need something quick and easy to
> access for
> information.
>
> The wannabes do not seem to last here very long,
> Google or not.
>
> While you may have been successful with your
> methods, they are not for
> everyone. One should learn how to do things the
> right way prior to
> taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the
> hobby, and have
> been successful , but I have also failed. It is up
> to people like you
> and myself and a few others here to make sure the
> new people get started
> on the right foot, and get to the point where they
> can then play the
> odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would
> like them to be
> successful from the word go so they may be around in
> 50 years helping
> those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> the outset, and the
> person is lost to the hobby forever.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of harry perry
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> I would first go here
> http://www.firsttan
kguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
> would use common sense. Personally I have never
> waited 6 weeks or even 2
> weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my
> opinion. I have always set
> up my tanks using over filtration, live plants,
> adding stress coat and
> stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts"
> who cruise these
> groups. They are nothing more than just folks like
> you and I using
> Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have
> never lost any fish on a
> start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm
> 61 now. One
> "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute
> now. Enjoy the
> hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are
> going to hear are simple
> myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
> fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works
> for you. If you want
> to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to
> cycle fine, I wouldn't.
> It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your
> fish.
>
> Harry
>
> Jennifer wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three
> days too long?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make
> PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.
webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.
groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/







---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18612 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Joseph
Point taken

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Just think if telling someone a (newby) that is that it takes two months to cycle a tank and hoping that they dont abandon the hobby just think what this string of posts would do to a newby?!

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: Joseph,

You need to think a little more before hitting that send button so
often.

I know what Jennifer meant as I do the same thing. You get peoples
opinions, read through their experiences then relate them to your own.
Decipher amongst them what would work best to your particular situation
then go from there. The answer to a problem is very often a combination
of different answers placed into one good solution for that situation.
I know, I've been there.

And if she already had an idea as to what she could do for her
situation, it may very well have been confirmed for her here therefore
giving her the affirmation she was looking for to act on it. I've been
there too.

So she did NOT say "just kiddin" at all.

Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 6:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe

Wow! Nothing like getting everyone all wild up and then saying just
kiddin lol.

Jennifer Kokoruda
12@...> wrote: Hey there Woody

As far as my question being answered I guess depending on I looked at it
it was answered in many different ways? But as I said before I am a very
hard headed person and usually although seeking advice wind up doing
what I want to do anyway. But thanks for asking and thinking of me! LOL

chris topher com>
wrote:
i picture poor jennifer cowering in a corner somewhere
wondering what she started...

jennifer?...has your question been answered to your
satisfaction?

may have seemed like a simple question, but there are
obviously several answers depending on which technique
you wish to employ...

woody

--- Joseph Reid wrote:

> You dont tell someone not to listen to this person
> or that person. We are all giving our opions here to
> help out. This done through knowledge, know how,
> training, reading and learning from mistakes. We
> arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once
> is a shamless act.
>
> harry perry wrote:
> I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try
> to help them with my 45 years experience of keeping
> fish. I like to think I learned something. but if I
> see something that could be approved upon I will
> speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I
> just read a post from a professional aquarium
> maintenance person who uses bio spira and then moves
> fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months
> for a tank to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Joseph Reid wrote: Well I
> have learned that ppl also give it up if they dont
> get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite
> the hobby. Heard it many times so you got to urge
> them to take it one step at a time. Going against
> pples knowledge is not helping you should think what
> is best for the fish.
>
> harry perry wrote: As a
> moderator here I have read your posts over the years
> and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I
> appreciate that. I consider you to be a valuable
> member of this group. Your post was right on
> target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods
> are the right way? How do you know? My methods are
> based on experience also. I am well aware of the
> nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of
> several groups I am also aware that beginners will
> be totally turned off to the hobby by waiting 8
> weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the
> experience to know this is not necessary. What are
> you thoughts on this. I totally respect your
> opinion.
>
> Harry
>
> Sissy Sathre wrote: HEAR, HEAR
> Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> Harry,
>
> The real experts here are not relying on Google,
> except maybe to quickly
> check a fact or two. They are writing from there own
> personal experience
> as well as reading they have done on various topics.
> Google may be used
> to give online references to topics under
> discussion--I've done that,
> but mainly because I realize that most do not have
> the library that I do
> for reference, and need something quick and easy to
> access for
> information.
>
> The wannabes do not seem to last here very long,
> Google or not.
>
> While you may have been successful with your
> methods, they are not for
> everyone. One should learn how to do things the
> right way prior to
> taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the
> hobby, and have
> been successful , but I have also failed. It is up
> to people like you
> and myself and a few others here to make sure the
> new people get started
> on the right foot, and get to the point where they
> can then play the
> odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would
> like them to be
> successful from the word go so they may be around in
> 50 years helping
> those who are just starting. Too many failures at
> the outset, and the
> person is lost to the hobby forever.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of harry perry
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer
>
> I would first go here
> http://www.firsttan
kguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
> would use common sense. Personally I have never
> waited 6 weeks or even 2
> weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my
> opinion. I have always set
> up my tanks using over filtration, live plants,
> adding stress coat and
> stress zyne and the fish I want.
>
> I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.
>
> Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts"
> who cruise these
> groups. They are nothing more than just folks like
> you and I using
> Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have
> never lost any fish on a
> start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm
> 61 now. One
> "expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute
> now. Enjoy the
> hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are
> going to hear are simple
> myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar
> fish industry.
>
> How do you know the difference ? you do what works
> for you. If you want
> to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to
> cycle fine, I wouldn't.
> It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your
> fish.
>
> Harry
>
> Jennifer wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was wondering what is the normal length of time
> that an aquarium
> should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three
> days too long?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make
> PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr.
> We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. yahoo.com

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.
webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.
groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great
rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/



---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18613 From: aclaar877 Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Live Plants - St. Louis area
I'm throwing away plants nearly every week--stem plants, red plants,
ruffled swords, vals, and crypts. I also have a huge, indestructible
aponogeton that quickly bounces back every time I trim off all the
leaves. Email me privately to arrange a visit if you are interested.
I'm located downtown.

Andy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18614 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Maintaining proper tempreture
One rule of thumb says you should have 2.5 watts per gallon, another 5 watts, so your heaters are in the ballpark for your tank. Another factor is the difference between your room temperature and the temperature of the water you wish to maintain. Not being a marine person, I cannot comment on the range you wish to keep, but it is 5-7° above what many consider to be a normal room temperature, so your 100 watt heater is probably the one to keep in the tank.

I cannot give you an explanation about the discrepancy you have found between the thermometers. You should be getting readings pretty close to the same on all of them. It is possible that the glass thermometer was miscalibrated, or became so during transit. You may, if you are curious enough, purchase another from another source and see how it compares.

The proper way to set the temperature on a heater is to place the heater in the tank, and give it a bit of time to acclimate. Then turn it on (plug it in) and turn the knob just until the light comes on and stays on. Let it site for 12 to 24 hours and repeat until you reach the desired temperature. Then leave it alone.

Most of the heaters I use are 30-40 years old. I have experimented, in the past, with those that are supposed to be calibrated for a certain temperature, but have found that the temperatures on the dial to be, at best, guesses. I'd not rely on that method to set the temperature.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Hussam Mousa
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Maintaining proper tempreture

Hi All,

I am having quite a mystery with my 20 gallon reef aquarium.
I know that I should try to maintain a stable temperature between 77-79 F.

I started out with the 75 watt Marineland Visi Therm Deluxe. I set it to
82 since I was advised that this is how to maintain the tempreture
around 79.

I also bought a Hagen floating glass thermometer to monitor the tempreture.

For a few weeks I noticed the thermometer would report temperature
fluctuations between 72 and 78.

I bought a second heater thinking that would help stabilize the
temperature. I got the Marineland Stealth heater (100 watts) after
noting it had good customer reviews.

I set both heaters at around 79-81. I noted that the temperature on the
glass thermometer read 73-75 - I achieved stability but the reading is
still out of my desired range.

I figured I get a more accurate thermometer so I got 2 digital
thermometers (Coralife brand) and I placed them at either ends of the
the tank. They reported 82 and 83 F respectively. This is while the
glass thermometer was reporting 73 F.

I find this very confusing and I am not sure what to make of it.

The fish (clown fish, scooter blenny and green clown goby ) are doing
well and so are the xenias, frogspawn corals and mushrooms. The
invertebrates are also doing well, although I recently found a dead
snail but I am not sure what to make of it. I am maintaining SG at
1.023-1.024 and all other water parameters are within recommended range.

Thanks,
Hussam
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18615 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if there are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same place.
><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off, swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>---------------------------------
>How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18616 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe/again
Jennifer,

But we are playing nice. Harry and ray have mentioned their years of
experience with keeping fish, and I suppose I should as well. Well,
let's us just say it is up there with Ray and Harry <g>. I was born into
a fish keeping family. My father kept fish and was an angel breeder. His
mother also kept fish. Back in the olden days, when we all got started
with fish, the nitrogen cycle was not known to hobbyists, but the
balanced aquarium was big. Essentially it was an aquarium with fish,
plants and an established cycle, though we did not know it at the time.

It is when those doggone scientists started keeping fish and writing
about it that we learned about the nitrogen cycle (and a lot of other
things). It is possible to cycle a tank using just fish. We have all
done it. However, is it wise to do so? Probably not. As many people who
have been around the hobby for a while, can tell you, the fish just
ain't what they used to be. Most of the fish available in the stores are
highly inbred and they are bred for looks, not health or strength or
anything else. Genetics are such that when you breed for a desirable
trait, you bring along a lot of genes that are not desirable. Without
working to also remove as many of those as possible, you end up with a
lot of fish with these undesirable genes. Often, these genes actually
weaken the fish.

There are also other factors that play into the degradation of captive
populations of fish, but we'll ignore them for now, to discuss at a
later date when there is a need.

The bottom line is that I can tae a fancy guppy of 50 years ago, and it
will have a lot more resilience than a fancy guppy of today, and can
withstand a lot more before it begins to show signs of stress and
illness. This is one reason why it is not wise to use fish as your
guinea pigs when establishing a cycle.

Yes, we have all taken short cuts to the cycle. We have all admitted as
such. However, I just don't think it is a wise move for a novice to do,
as it can lead to failure very easily. As someone else mentioned, we
have an American culture of want fixed yesterday with the miracle cure.
In this hobby, the miracle is getting it right the first time--or
getting it enough right so your fish survive and thrive. It does take
time and patience. You have probably learned the same with your
reptiles. Those of you who own dogs now it takes time and patience to
get a well trained dog that will obey you (well, at least obey you most
of the time). Both reptiles and dogs have an advantage over aquatic
animals--they live in the same milieu as we do. Fish live in an entirely
different world, water. The differences are great and sometimes a bit
difficult to understand. It takes a lot of reading and study to be
really successful.

The quick answers normally found here will most certainly help you get
on the right path. Occasionally you will get discussions such as this,
some of which will go over people's heads, but eventually, if they stick
to it, they will come to understand a lot of what we are talking about.
This thread as pretty much shown that the cycle is an important part of
aquarium keeping. It has also shown that there are several ways to reach
this end. What it has not shown, however, is which method is the best
method. This is something that is best left to the individual. They may
try several methods before arriving at the right method for them--the
method that works the best and most consistently for them.

Another thing you may note is that we more or less pick our topics.
You'll not see any of the three of us sticking their noses into threads
that we think are adequately resolved otherwise, or those in which we do
not have adequate knowledge to carry the conversation along.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Kokoruda
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 7:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer/Steve/Joe/again

Ok guys.....For one I am not going to give up on my new babies! I have
never really given up on anything that I have started. So now through
all of these posts about the cycling of an aquarium have all seen the
different methods that you all use and so far in the week that I have
been doing this it seems that everyones way is the right way! So guys,
let's play nice if we are to play together at all? CANT WE ALL JUST GET
ALONG?!!! Really though, I appreciate everyone who responded and I thank
you all for the new found knowledge that I have gained from this whole
ordeal.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: I'm not going going to
fight with you here. Let's take it off list. If you got the.........
well you know.

Harry

Joseph Reid wrote: You dont tell someone not to listen to this person or
that person. We are all giving our opions here to help out. This done
through knowledge, know how, training, reading and learning from
mistakes. We arent stupid ppl and adding all the fish in at once is a
shamless act.

harry perry wrote: I don't try to go against people's knowledge I try to
help them with my 45 years experience of keeping fish. I like to think I
learned something. but if I see something that could be approved upon I
will speak up. Cycling a tank is one of those issues. I just read a post
from a professional aquarium maintenance person who uses bio spira and
then moves fish into this tank the same day. Waiting 2 months for a tank
to cycle is ridiculous. Just my opinion.

Harry

Joseph Reid wrote: Well I have learned that ppl also give it up if they
dont get it right. If their fish keep dieing they quite the hobby. Heard
it many times so you got to urge them to take it one step at a time.
Going against pples knowledge is not helping you should think what is
best for the fish.

harry perry wrote: As a moderator here I have read your posts over the
years and I feel You have helped a lot of folks. I appreciate that. I
consider you to be a valuable member of this group. Your post was right
on target.Helping beginners. Are you sure your methods are the right
way? How do you know? My methods are based on experience also. I am well
aware of the nitrogen cycle and how it works. Being the owner of several
groups I am also aware that beginners will be totally turned off to the
hobby by waiting 8 weeks for a tank to cycle you and I both have the
experience to know this is not necessary. What are you thoughts on this.
I totally respect your opinion.

Harry

Sissy Sathre wrote: HEAR, HEAR Steve !!!!!!!!!!!!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:04 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

Harry,

The real experts here are not relying on Google, except maybe to quickly
check a fact or two. They are writing from there own personal experience
as well as reading they have done on various topics. Google may be used
to give online references to topics under discussion--I've done that,
but mainly because I realize that most do not have the library that I do
for reference, and need something quick and easy to access for
information.

The wannabes do not seem to last here very long, Google or not.

While you may have been successful with your methods, they are not for
everyone. One should learn how to do things the right way prior to
taking short cuts. I've taken many in my time in the hobby, and have
been successful , but I have also failed. It is up to people like you
and myself and a few others here to make sure the new people get started
on the right foot, and get to the point where they can then play the
odds with the short cut methods. I, for one, would like them to be
successful from the word go so they may be around in 50 years helping
those who are just starting. Too many failures at the outset, and the
person is lost to the hobby forever.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium cycle/Jennifer

I would first go here http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php. Then I
would use common sense. Personally I have never waited 6 weeks or even 2
weeks for a tank to cycle, this is me and my opinion. I have always set
up my tanks using over filtration, live plants, adding stress coat and
stress zyne and the fish I want.

I always test my water for ammonia and niTRITES.

Personally I have a real problem with the"Experts" who cruise these
groups. They are nothing more than just folks like you and I using
Goggle to maintain their expert status . I have never lost any fish on a
start up. I have been doing this since I was 16 I'm 61 now. One
"expert" will wade in on this discussion any minute now. Enjoy the
hobby, learn all you can. A lot of what you are going to hear are simple
myths perpetuated by the the Miltie billion dollar fish industry.

How do you know the difference ? you do what works for you. If you want
to wait around for 6 weeks waiting for a tank to cycle fine, I wouldn't.
It's simple not necessary. Have fun, enjoy your fish.

Harry

Jennifer wrote:
Hello everyone,

I was wondering what is the normal length of time that an aquarium
should cycle before transferring the fish? Is three days too long?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18617 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially marine fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same time. :)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q


The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if there are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same place.
><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off, swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>---------------------------------
>How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18618 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
I had a female swordtail that changed into a male. It barely had a sword too thats why you cant tell livebearers through coloring and markings all the time. In the livebearers instance that is. Havent seen the others change so cant comment on them.

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially marine fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same time. :)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if there are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same place.
><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off, swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>---------------------------------
>How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18619 From: Frank Still Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: New To Group
Hi to all, my name is Frank and I live in Baton Rouge La. I am new to
the group and hope that I will be gaining some useful information from
the group on aquarium's and their setup and maintenance also the
differant fish available. I have a thirty high with an undergravel
filter, it has at the present time 5 Glowlite Tetra's and 5 Neon
Tetra's, two Algae Eaters, one Catfish and two Kissing Gouramie's.
I also have a 55 long that I hope to try salt water in. thanks for
having me in the group.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18620 From: Frank Still Date: 9/7/2006
Subject: Best light to show off Tetra colors
What is the best light to show off colors on the various Tetra Colors
(neons, glowlights and red eye Tetras )? thanks in advance, Oh no live
plants in the Aquarium.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18621 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice
Leslie,

That is a tough task you set yourself to. Ws the tank already in place
or did you set it up yourself? Do you have anyone there that can be your
eyes?

If the tank was already there, you may be on better ground. It is easy
to say that this is not going to work and the tank should be dismantled
rather than become a death trap. If you put it there, you have a lot
more invested in it to make it a go.

You do need a set of eyes present who can alert you to problems in the
tank so you can make an emergency visit, if needed, after school has let
out so as not to disturb the classes. You also need to have a schedule
were you can run in if needed.

Maintaining a set temperature can be a challenge in that setting. Many
schools reduce the temperature after school is out, often significantly,
and then raise it before classes start. If you are in a warm area of the
country, the opposite happens with the air conditioning. After school
(and during breaks in both instances), the temperature is allowed to
rise, and then the school is cooled when appropriate the next day. A
unique challenge to say the least.

I am surprised that Sissy has not jumped in here to relate some of the
trials and tribulations of this type of work. You might want to try to
contact her off list about this.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 4:34 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice

I am beginning to HATE keeping this school tank I am doing. Does
anyone have any advice, tips, etc... to offer regarding taking care of a
tank that you only have access to once a week? I can see it twice a
week but that's difficult to do.

I added driftwood to this tank last week. I soaked it forEVER until no
more brown water resulted from it. One week later, I go in to do
maintenance and the water is the color of COFFEE. It was awful! AND
the kissing gourami had ick and is now dead.

All four cory cats croaked. One was left in there unnoticed so there's
no telling what that resulted in.

Since this gourami had ick, should I treat the whole tank so none of the
other fish get it? I turned up the heat a bit, it should be around 80
F. But I'm not at all comfortable not being able to keep an eye on it.
The water tests were all fine.

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18622 From: hank voss Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Best light to show off Tetra colors
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frank Still" <fstill2@...> wrote:
>
> What is the best light to show off colors on the various Tetra
Colors
> (neons, glowlights and red eye Tetras )? thanks in advance, Oh no
live
> plants in the Aquarium.
>
========================
Frank:
Ive kept tetras for over 60 yrs and still say incades. bulbs
with the reflector towards the front of the tank with live plants is
the best for color(also live food helps a lot) If your using a flour.
light go for the warm light bulbs
Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18623 From: hank voss Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Best light to show off Tetra colors
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frank Still" <fstill2@> wrote:
> >
> > What is the best light to show off colors on the various Tetra
> Colors
> > (neons, glowlights and red eye Tetras )? thanks in advance, Oh
no
> live
> > plants in the Aquarium.
> >
> ========================
> Frank:
> Ive kept tetras for over 60 yrs and still say incades.
bulbs
> with the reflector towards the front of the tank with live plants
is
> the best for color(also live food helps a lot) If your using a
flour.
> light go for the warm light bulbs
> Regards Hank

============================
Thats warm white bulbs

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18624 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: New To Group
Welcome Frank. So tell me that 30 gal high is that one of those tall colums? How you like it?

Frank Still <fstill2@...> wrote: Hi to all, my name is Frank and I live in Baton Rouge La. I am new to
the group and hope that I will be gaining some useful information from
the group on aquarium's and their setup and maintenance also the
differant fish available. I have a thirty high with an undergravel
filter, it has at the present time 5 Glowlite Tetra's and 5 Neon
Tetra's, two Algae Eaters, one Catfish and two Kissing Gouramie's.
I also have a 55 long that I hope to try salt water in. thanks for
having me in the group.






---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18625 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Best light to show off Tetra colors
Well a coral lite would shine if off greatly also black lights ppl say show them off in a different way. Correct me if im wrong but these fish have the lights because they live in caves or murky waters? If thats the case wouldnt the black light be almost like a natural habitat for them?

Frank Still <fstill2@...> wrote: What is the best light to show off colors on the various Tetra Colors
(neons, glowlights and red eye Tetras )? thanks in advance, Oh no live
plants in the Aquarium.






---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18626 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice
Leslie, I also put the lights on a timer. Some tanks have 2 or 3 timers LOL.........Dusk,daylight,dawn, and moon
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 5:38 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice


Leslie,

That is a tough task you set yourself to. Ws the tank already in place
or did you set it up yourself? Do you have anyone there that can be your
eyes?

If the tank was already there, you may be on better ground. It is easy
to say that this is not going to work and the tank should be dismantled
rather than become a death trap. If you put it there, you have a lot
more invested in it to make it a go.

You do need a set of eyes present who can alert you to problems in the
tank so you can make an emergency visit, if needed, after school has let
out so as not to disturb the classes. You also need to have a schedule
were you can run in if needed.

Maintaining a set temperature can be a challenge in that setting. Many
schools reduce the temperature after school is out, often significantly,
and then raise it before classes start. If you are in a warm area of the
country, the opposite happens with the air conditioning. After school
(and during breaks in both instances), the temperature is allowed to
rise, and then the school is cooled when appropriate the next day. A
unique challenge to say the least.

I am surprised that Sissy has not jumped in here to relate some of the
trials and tribulations of this type of work. You might want to try to
contact her off list about this.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 4:34 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice

I am beginning to HATE keeping this school tank I am doing. Does
anyone have any advice, tips, etc... to offer regarding taking care of a
tank that you only have access to once a week? I can see it twice a
week but that's difficult to do.

I added driftwood to this tank last week. I soaked it forEVER until no
more brown water resulted from it. One week later, I go in to do
maintenance and the water is the color of COFFEE. It was awful! AND
the kissing gourami had ick and is now dead.

All four cory cats croaked. One was left in there unnoticed so there's
no telling what that resulted in.

Since this gourami had ick, should I treat the whole tank so none of the
other fish get it? I turned up the heat a bit, it should be around 80
F. But I'm not at all comfortable not being able to keep an eye on it.
The water tests were all fine.

Thanks,
Leslie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18627 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice
I did do that but the fire department said they can't use it so they
unplugged it. ?! Why is that a fire hazard?
Any ideas?
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 7:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice



Leslie, I also put the lights on a timer. Some tanks have 2 or 3 timers
LOL.........Dusk,daylight,dawn, and moon
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 5:38 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice

Leslie,

That is a tough task you set yourself to. Ws the tank already in place
or did you set it up yourself? Do you have anyone there that can be your
eyes?

If the tank was already there, you may be on better ground. It is easy
to say that this is not going to work and the tank should be dismantled
rather than become a death trap. If you put it there, you have a lot
more invested in it to make it a go.

You do need a set of eyes present who can alert you to problems in the
tank so you can make an emergency visit, if needed, after school has let
out so as not to disturb the classes. You also need to have a schedule
were you can run in if needed.

Maintaining a set temperature can be a challenge in that setting. Many
schools reduce the temperature after school is out, often significantly,
and then raise it before classes start. If you are in a warm area of the
country, the opposite happens with the air conditioning. After school
(and during breaks in both instances), the temperature is allowed to
rise, and then the school is cooled when appropriate the next day. A
unique challenge to say the least.

I am surprised that Sissy has not jumped in here to relate some of the
trials and tribulations of this type of work. You might want to try to
contact her off list about this.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 4:34 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogrou <mailto:fishgeeks%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice

I am beginning to HATE keeping this school tank I am doing. Does
anyone have any advice, tips, etc... to offer regarding taking care of a
tank that you only have access to once a week? I can see it twice a
week but that's difficult to do.

I added driftwood to this tank last week. I soaked it forEVER until no
more brown water resulted from it. One week later, I go in to do
maintenance and the water is the color of COFFEE. It was awful! AND
the kissing gourami had ick and is now dead.

All four cory cats croaked. One was left in there unnoticed so there's
no telling what that resulted in.

Since this gourami had ick, should I treat the whole tank so none of the
other fish get it? I turned up the heat a bit, it should be around 80
F. But I'm not at all comfortable not being able to keep an eye on it.
The water tests were all fine.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18628 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Bacterial treatment, which one?
I definitely need to treat this tank for a bacterial effect. All the
angels now have red fins on the top and a streak of red directly on
their "backs."

With the elephant nose in mind, which treatment should I use? I know
they are sensitive to meds.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18629 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice
I dont know, ask them. It's not in Texas, I use them everywhere, hospitals, rest homes. schools, collages, restrauntrs ! Geezzzzzzzz
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 7:52 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice


I did do that but the fire department said they can't use it so they
unplugged it. ?! Why is that a fire hazard?
Any ideas?
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 7:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice

Leslie, I also put the lights on a timer. Some tanks have 2 or 3 timers
LOL.........Dusk,daylight,dawn, and moon
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 5:38 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice

Leslie,

That is a tough task you set yourself to. Ws the tank already in place
or did you set it up yourself? Do you have anyone there that can be your
eyes?

If the tank was already there, you may be on better ground. It is easy
to say that this is not going to work and the tank should be dismantled
rather than become a death trap. If you put it there, you have a lot
more invested in it to make it a go.

You do need a set of eyes present who can alert you to problems in the
tank so you can make an emergency visit, if needed, after school has let
out so as not to disturb the classes. You also need to have a schedule
were you can run in if needed.

Maintaining a set temperature can be a challenge in that setting. Many
schools reduce the temperature after school is out, often significantly,
and then raise it before classes start. If you are in a warm area of the
country, the opposite happens with the air conditioning. After school
(and during breaks in both instances), the temperature is allowed to
rise, and then the school is cooled when appropriate the next day. A
unique challenge to say the least.

I am surprised that Sissy has not jumped in here to relate some of the
trials and tribulations of this type of work. You might want to try to
contact her off list about this.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 4:34 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogrou <mailto:fishgeeks%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Disgruntled fish keeper needs advice

I am beginning to HATE keeping this school tank I am doing. Does
anyone have any advice, tips, etc... to offer regarding taking care of a
tank that you only have access to once a week? I can see it twice a
week but that's difficult to do.

I added driftwood to this tank last week. I soaked it forEVER until no
more brown water resulted from it. One week later, I go in to do
maintenance and the water is the color of COFFEE. It was awful! AND
the kissing gourami had ick and is now dead.

All four cory cats croaked. One was left in there unnoticed so there's
no telling what that resulted in.

Since this gourami had ick, should I treat the whole tank so none of the
other fish get it? I turned up the heat a bit, it should be around 80
F. But I'm not at all comfortable not being able to keep an eye on it.
The water tests were all fine.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18630 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Sissy,

What you see in fry is normal development. The die has already been cast
for each fish to be male or female. No magic there. So far as I am
aware, once the change has been made, even in the marine fish, there is
no going back, as it were to the original sex. The transformation from
female to male is one that is done in the absence of males in the
population. None of the reading I have done has indicated that a male
population will produce females by changing sex.

There is one hermaphroditic fish of which I am aware. It is a killifish,
and native populations can be found in the Gulf coastal areas. It is
known as _Rivulus marmoratus_ . For those who do not know, a
hermaphrodite is a creature that has both male and female sex organs and
can also produce young when in a solitary state.

Marine fish are the ones most prone to sex changing. Since I do not keep
marine fish, my reading in this area is a bit skimpy, and full of holes,
which is why I do not discuss strictly marine topics here. Also, one
goes by published reports, and with the holes in my marine knowledge, I
do admit I may have missed things that may have been published on the
subject of sex changes.

However, I do quite a bit of reading one the freshwater side, both
popular and scientific, and there are few reports of sex changes in
aquaria. Since the statement did reference freshwater fish, I stand by
my original statement.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some
livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance
all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at
about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially marine
fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same time.
:)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q


The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only
happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex
by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if there
are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I
have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same
place.

><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http:/
/www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I
got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another
from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and
if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing
the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off,
swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or
anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt
each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>---------------------------------
>How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call
rates.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in
it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18631 From: hank voss Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Best light to show off Tetra colors
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> Well a coral lite would shine if off greatly also black lights ppl
say show them off in a different way. Correct me if im wrong but
these fish have the lights because they live in caves or murky
waters? If thats the case wouldnt the black light be almost like a
natural habitat for them?
>
> Frank Still <fstill2@...> wrote: What is the best light
to show off colors on the various Tetra Colors
> (neons, glowlights and red eye Tetras )? thanks in advance, Oh no
live
> plants in the Aquarium.
> ---------------------------------

Hi all:
These fish live in open river/streams and would not show up
good under black light.Their water might be tea colored but not
murky.Their "lights "shine only because the way light reflects off
the scales.
Regards Hank






> All-ne


w Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done
faster.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18632 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Reserch my frien , you'll find what I said is true.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish


Sissy,

What you see in fry is normal development. The die has already been cast
for each fish to be male or female. No magic there. So far as I am
aware, once the change has been made, even in the marine fish, there is
no going back, as it were to the original sex. The transformation from
female to male is one that is done in the absence of males in the
population. None of the reading I have done has indicated that a male
population will produce females by changing sex.

There is one hermaphroditic fish of which I am aware. It is a killifish,
and native populations can be found in the Gulf coastal areas. It is
known as _Rivulus marmoratus_ . For those who do not know, a
hermaphrodite is a creature that has both male and female sex organs and
can also produce young when in a solitary state.

Marine fish are the ones most prone to sex changing. Since I do not keep
marine fish, my reading in this area is a bit skimpy, and full of holes,
which is why I do not discuss strictly marine topics here. Also, one
goes by published reports, and with the holes in my marine knowledge, I
do admit I may have missed things that may have been published on the
subject of sex changes.

However, I do quite a bit of reading one the freshwater side, both
popular and scientific, and there are few reports of sex changes in
aquaria. Since the statement did reference freshwater fish, I stand by
my original statement.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some
livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance
all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at
about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially marine
fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same time.
:)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only
happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex
by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if there
are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I
have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same
place.

><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http:/
/www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I
got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another
from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and
if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing
the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off,
swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or
anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt
each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>---------------------------------
>How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call
rates.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in
it





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18633 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Ive seen it done

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: Reserch my frien , you'll find what I said is true.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Sissy,

What you see in fry is normal development. The die has already been cast
for each fish to be male or female. No magic there. So far as I am
aware, once the change has been made, even in the marine fish, there is
no going back, as it were to the original sex. The transformation from
female to male is one that is done in the absence of males in the
population. None of the reading I have done has indicated that a male
population will produce females by changing sex.

There is one hermaphroditic fish of which I am aware. It is a killifish,
and native populations can be found in the Gulf coastal areas. It is
known as _Rivulus marmoratus_ . For those who do not know, a
hermaphrodite is a creature that has both male and female sex organs and
can also produce young when in a solitary state.

Marine fish are the ones most prone to sex changing. Since I do not keep
marine fish, my reading in this area is a bit skimpy, and full of holes,
which is why I do not discuss strictly marine topics here. Also, one
goes by published reports, and with the holes in my marine knowledge, I
do admit I may have missed things that may have been published on the
subject of sex changes.

However, I do quite a bit of reading one the freshwater side, both
popular and scientific, and there are few reports of sex changes in
aquaria. Since the statement did reference freshwater fish, I stand by
my original statement.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some
livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance
all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at
about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially marine
fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same time.
:)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only
happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex
by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if there
are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I
have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same
place.

><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http:/
/www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I
got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another
from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and
if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing
the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off,
swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or
anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt
each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>---------------------------------
>How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call
rates.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in
it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18634 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Ive seen it done

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: Reserch my frien , you'll find what I said is true.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Sissy,

What you see in fry is normal development. The die has already been cast
for each fish to be male or female. No magic there. So far as I am
aware, once the change has been made, even in the marine fish, there is
no going back, as it were to the original sex. The transformation from
female to male is one that is done in the absence of males in the
population. None of the reading I have done has indicated that a male
population will produce females by changing sex.

There is one hermaphroditic fish of which I am aware. It is a killifish,
and native populations can be found in the Gulf coastal areas. It is
known as _Rivulus marmoratus_ . For those who do not know, a
hermaphrodite is a creature that has both male and female sex organs and
can also produce young when in a solitary state.

Marine fish are the ones most prone to sex changing. Since I do not keep
marine fish, my reading in this area is a bit skimpy, and full of holes,
which is why I do not discuss strictly marine topics here. Also, one
goes by published reports, and with the holes in my marine knowledge, I
do admit I may have missed things that may have been published on the
subject of sex changes.

However, I do quite a bit of reading one the freshwater side, both
popular and scientific, and there are few reports of sex changes in
aquaria. Since the statement did reference freshwater fish, I stand by
my original statement.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some
livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance
all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at
about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially marine
fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same time.
:)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only
happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex
by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if there
are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I
have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same
place.

><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http:/
/www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I
got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another
from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and
if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing
the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off,
swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or
anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt
each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>---------------------------------
>How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call
rates.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in
it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18635 From: harry perry Date: 9/8/2006
Subject: bbs and hydras
Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal experience , hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.

My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra everywhere, I am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot , consider hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my fry.

Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no hydra. I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live food.

There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and hydra, but how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18636 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Bloody stools
My fan tailed gold fish grew to three-times the size of the other gold fish
in the tank. It became the bully fish discouraging the others from eating,
in fact. The tank was really foul smelling and we decided to change the
water. Both gold fish did fine with the change but the big one began exuding
long, large trails of fecal material. When I lifted those out I noticed they
were filled with blood. The fish was not just large but had what some my call
a beer belly. I began wondering if he/she might have tumor or something.

I must add that there is nothing more we can do about the bully fish. We
decided to save our tank and the other fish therein and took him down to the
pond in the golf course outside our back door. Considering his tenacity I
wouldn't be surprised that he will make it and grow and grow and grow. I felt
awful doing that, but it was that or watch the other gold fish die from
starvation, plus the 5 gallon tank was getting so filthy from the bully fish.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Signed, The Executioner


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18637 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody stools
Oh boy!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of NancyTroyer@...
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bloody stools



My fan tailed gold fish grew to three-times the size of the other gold fish
in the tank. It became the bully fish discouraging the others from eating,
in fact. The tank was really foul smelling and we decided to change the
water. Both gold fish did fine with the change but the big one began exuding

long, large trails of fecal material. When I lifted those out I noticed they

were filled with blood. The fish was not just large but had what some my
call
a beer belly. I began wondering if he/she might have tumor or something.

I must add that there is nothing more we can do about the bully fish. We
decided to save our tank and the other fish therein and took him down to the

pond in the golf course outside our back door. Considering his tenacity I
wouldn't be surprised that he will make it and grow and grow and grow. I
felt
awful doing that, but it was that or watch the other gold fish die from
starvation, plus the 5 gallon tank was getting so filthy from the bully
fish.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Signed, The Executioner

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18638 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Cites, please, then. I just have not seen this in the literature I have
been reading, hence my stand.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 10:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Reserch my frien , you'll find what I said is true.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish


Sissy,

What you see in fry is normal development. The die has already been
cast
for each fish to be male or female. No magic there. So far as I am
aware, once the change has been made, even in the marine fish, there
is
no going back, as it were to the original sex. The transformation from
female to male is one that is done in the absence of males in the
population. None of the reading I have done has indicated that a male
population will produce females by changing sex.

There is one hermaphroditic fish of which I am aware. It is a
killifish,
and native populations can be found in the Gulf coastal areas. It is
known as _Rivulus marmoratus_ . For those who do not know, a
hermaphrodite is a creature that has both male and female sex organs
and
can also produce young when in a solitary state.

Marine fish are the ones most prone to sex changing. Since I do not
keep
marine fish, my reading in this area is a bit skimpy, and full of
holes,
which is why I do not discuss strictly marine topics here. Also, one
goes by published reports, and with the holes in my marine knowledge,
I
do admit I may have missed things that may have been published on the
subject of sex changes.

However, I do quite a bit of reading one the freshwater side, both
popular and scientific, and there are few reports of sex changes in
aquaria. Since the statement did reference freshwater fish, I stand by
my original statement.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some
livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance
all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at
about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially
marine
fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same
time.
:)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only
happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex
by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if
there
are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I
have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same
place.


><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http:/
/www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I
got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another
from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and
if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing
the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off,
swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or
anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt
each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18639 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Harry,

I've seen a number of anecdotal reports tying hydra to baby brine
shrimp. However, there has been no real mention of the source of the
eggs in most of the reports, but those that do mention a source say they
come from the Great Salt Lake in Utah.

As you seem to suspect, I cannot tie the two together as a cause and
result, because the BBS are salt water and hydra, in these instances,
are freshwater creatures, so it is unlikely that the BBS are the source
of the hydra. It is more likely the hydra are hitchhikers on plants,
fish, snails, and other freshwater introductions into the aquarium.
Perhaps only one or two individuals. Introduction of the BBS is not only
a good food for the fish, but for the hydra, and heavy feeding of the
fish with BBS will then lead to an explosion in the hydra population,
since BBS is also a good food for the hydra.

Since BBS is not often fed to adult fish, and when it is, it is likely
that the adult fish may eat the larger hydra--some fish, such as
gouramis are known for liking to eat hydra--causing the hydra population
to remain under control, and thus less noticeable to the aquarist.
However, fry are often fed BBS and they hydra population in a fry tank
may undergo explosive growth because there is a plentiful food source
(BBS, and, if the fry are small enough, possibly the occasional fry) and
no predators, i.e., adult fish.

Reported methods of removing hydra, other than adult fish, are likely to
harm the fry, and include a drug, the name escapes me right now, copper
and electricity, though it is not clear to me whether the electricity
killed the hydra or the copper from the electrodes.

Your best bet would probably be to grow out the fry and move them to
another tank, and then treat the fry tank for the hydra, while watching
the new fry tank for signs that some hydra have moved with your fish.

Oh, for those of you out there who may be thinking,, "well, the hydra
are on the glass, so if I crush the ones I see, I'll be rid of them!".
Please do not follow through on that thought. Many of the pieces, if not
all, will develop into new hydra, and you will be far worse off than if
you had done nothing. Hydra have that wonderful trait known as
regeneration, and if you were to slice a hydra into a number of parts,
they will regenerate into new hydra, giving you the same number of hydra
as parts. Hydra are relatively simple animals and the cells do not have
that much differentiation, so you can have relatively small pieces of a
hydra that can regenerate into an eventual adult hydra.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 11:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] bbs and hydras

Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal experience , hydra
appear when feeding BBS. Why?.

My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra everywhere, I am
aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot , consider hydra
to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my fry.

Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no hydra. I
suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live food.

There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and hydra, but how?.
One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.

Harry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18640 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody stools
First, one should never ever dispose of a fish by placing it in a
natural waterway, and this includes golf course ponds. If your fish were
ill, as you suspected, this could cause the other fish that may be in
that pond to become ill, and possibly die. Not to mention the
possibility of the illness spreading to other bodies of water
transferred by birds and other animals.

If you did want to dispose of the fish, and not treat it, you should
have euthanized it. The easiest way would have been to place the fish in
a bag with enough water to cover and then place the bag in the freezer
for several hours.

The big belly you mention could be a characteristic of the variety of
goldfish you had. Since you do not mention the variety, one can only
surmise. I'll leave comments on possible causes to others who are more
familiar with disease of goldfish than I, should they care to take a
stab at possible causes, but without the fish any longer, it is rather
pointless.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@...
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bloody stools

My fan tailed gold fish grew to three-times the size of the other gold
fish
in the tank. It became the bully fish discouraging the others from
eating,
in fact. The tank was really foul smelling and we decided to change
the
water. Both gold fish did fine with the change but the big one began
exuding
long, large trails of fecal material. When I lifted those out I
noticed they
were filled with blood. The fish was not just large but had what some
my call
a beer belly. I began wondering if he/she might have tumor or
something.

I must add that there is nothing more we can do about the bully fish.
We
decided to save our tank and the other fish therein and took him down to
the
pond in the golf course outside our back door. Considering his tenacity
I
wouldn't be surprised that he will make it and grow and grow and grow.
I felt
awful doing that, but it was that or watch the other gold fish die from

starvation, plus the 5 gallon tank was getting so filthy from the bully
fish.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Signed, The Executioner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18641 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
From http://www.szgdocent.org/resource/ff/f-reef3a.htmrom

How many genders can a fish have? Some fish are both male and female simultaneously (hermaphrodite), others are sequential hermaphrodites: born male then change to females (protandry), yet others are born female then change to males (protogyny). Some can change only once, others can switch back to their original gender!

To confuse matters further in some species of Parrotfish, some members are born primary males which don't change sex, others as secondary males which can change to females. The primary males or Super Male is usually large and dominates the harem. The smaller secondary male, however, gets to mate when the Super Male is distracted with a female elsewhere, or may even sneak in by pretending to be a female!

from http://dsc.discovery.com/news/afp/20031027/sexchange.html

Oct. 27, 2003 - Species that automatically change sex do so when they reach nearly three-quarters of their maximum size, neatly proving a cornerstone of evolutionary theory, scientists said.

Dozens of animal species, from types of fish and crustaceans to mollusks and worms, spontaneously change sex as a result of the pressures for survival and reproduction.

In the case of the clownfish, a favorite of aquarium-lovers, the gender bending is taken to extremes - males can not only switch to female, but also increase in size to become the alpha-breeder in their piscatorial group.

From http://www.augsburg.edu/home/biology/aquaria/SpecialTopicsFiles/f_SexLivesOfReefFish.html

Some marine fish take these confusing matters of gender one step further. For example, some gobies can change sex and then change back again, depending on the ratio of males and females in the local area. Still other reef fish are simultaneous hermaphrodites. For example, in many of the dwarf seabasses and the related hamlets, each fish is functionally both male and female! Some dwarf seabasses form long-term monogamous pairs, which spawn together each evening during the breeding season. In successive spawnings during a given evening, members of these pairs will trade off between laying eggs and fertilizing their mates' eggs.


Makes sexing fish kinda difficult LOL
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:31 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish


Cites, please, then. I just have not seen this in the literature I have
been reading, hence my stand.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 10:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Reserch my frien , you'll find what I said is true.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Sissy,

What you see in fry is normal development. The die has already been
cast
for each fish to be male or female. No magic there. So far as I am
aware, once the change has been made, even in the marine fish, there
is
no going back, as it were to the original sex. The transformation from
female to male is one that is done in the absence of males in the
population. None of the reading I have done has indicated that a male
population will produce females by changing sex.

There is one hermaphroditic fish of which I am aware. It is a
killifish,
and native populations can be found in the Gulf coastal areas. It is
known as _Rivulus marmoratus_ . For those who do not know, a
hermaphrodite is a creature that has both male and female sex organs
and
can also produce young when in a solitary state.

Marine fish are the ones most prone to sex changing. Since I do not
keep
marine fish, my reading in this area is a bit skimpy, and full of
holes,
which is why I do not discuss strictly marine topics here. Also, one
goes by published reports, and with the holes in my marine knowledge,
I
do admit I may have missed things that may have been published on the
subject of sex changes.

However, I do quite a bit of reading one the freshwater side, both
popular and scientific, and there are few reports of sex changes in
aquaria. Since the statement did reference freshwater fish, I stand by
my original statement.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Aquati
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some
livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance
all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at
about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially
marine
fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same
time.
:)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only
happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex
by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if
there
are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I
have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same
place.

><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http:/
/www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I
got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another
from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and
if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing
the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off,
swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or
anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt
each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18642 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
From your cite:
http://www.augsburg.edu/home/biology/aquaria/SpecialTopicsFiles/f_SexLiv
esOfReefFish.html

The first sentence reads:
"Though sex change is rare in freshwater fish, many species of reef fish
undergo gender transformations."

And that is exactly my point. We are talking freshwater fish as was the
original statement made about freshwater fish.

Your other two links are strictly marine fish oriented, and do not
mention a thing about freshwater. (BTW, for those of you looking for
that first link, use:
http://www.szgdocent.org/resource/ff/f-reef3a.htm. Somehow Sissy's
picked up an extra three characters at the end of her link.)

So, I still stand by my original statement that sex change is a rare
occurrence and not often seen in aquaria. In the context of the original
post, this is a true statement, and as the thread has evolved it is a
true statement still when talking about freshwater fish.

Had the original statement been made about a marine fish, I'd not have
even entered the topic, but just read and learned. For instance, I was
not aware of the ability of males in some marine species to become
females. Nor was I aware that some could change sex several times during
their life span. This should make for some interesting reading when I
have the time to follow up on it. It is a shame that neither of the
articles give any references to pursue.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

From http://www.szgdocent.org/resource/ff/f-reef3a.htmrom

How many genders can a fish have? Some fish are both male and female
simultaneously (hermaphrodite), others are sequential hermaphrodites:
born male then change to females (protandry), yet others are born female
then change to males (protogyny). Some can change only once, others can
switch back to their original gender!

To confuse matters further in some species of Parrotfish, some members
are born primary males which don't change sex, others as secondary males
which can change to females. The primary males or Super Male is usually
large and dominates the harem. The smaller secondary male, however, gets
to mate when the Super Male is distracted with a female elsewhere, or
may even sneak in by pretending to be a female!

from http://dsc.discovery.com/news/afp/20031027/sexchange.html

Oct. 27, 2003 - Species that automatically change sex do so when they
reach nearly three-quarters of their maximum size, neatly proving a
cornerstone of evolutionary theory, scientists said.

Dozens of animal species, from types of fish and crustaceans to mollusks
and worms, spontaneously change sex as a result of the pressures for
survival and reproduction.

In the case of the clownfish, a favorite of aquarium-lovers, the gender
bending is taken to extremes - males can not only switch to female, but
also increase in size to become the alpha-breeder in their piscatorial
group.

From
http://www.augsburg.edu/home/biology/aquaria/SpecialTopicsFiles/f_SexLiv
esOfReefFish.html

Some marine fish take these confusing matters of gender one step
further. For example, some gobies can change sex and then change back
again, depending on the ratio of males and females in the local area.
Still other reef fish are simultaneous hermaphrodites. For example, in
many of the dwarf seabasses and the related hamlets, each fish is
functionally both male and female! Some dwarf seabasses form long-term
monogamous pairs, which spawn together each evening during the breeding
season. In successive spawnings during a given evening, members of these
pairs will trade off between laying eggs and fertilizing their mates'
eggs.


Makes sexing fish kinda difficult LOL
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:31 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish


Cites, please, then. I just have not seen this in the literature I
have
been reading, hence my stand.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 10:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Reserch my frien , you'll find what I said is true.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Sissy,

What you see in fry is normal development. The die has already been
cast
for each fish to be male or female. No magic there. So far as I am
aware, once the change has been made, even in the marine fish, there
is
no going back, as it were to the original sex. The transformation from
female to male is one that is done in the absence of males in the
population. None of the reading I have done has indicated that a male
population will produce females by changing sex.

There is one hermaphroditic fish of which I am aware. It is a
killifish,
and native populations can be found in the Gulf coastal areas. It is
known as _Rivulus marmoratus_ . For those who do not know, a
hermaphrodite is a creature that has both male and female sex organs
and
can also produce young when in a solitary state.

Marine fish are the ones most prone to sex changing. Since I do not
keep
marine fish, my reading in this area is a bit skimpy, and full of
holes,
which is why I do not discuss strictly marine topics here. Also, one
goes by published reports, and with the holes in my marine knowledge,
I
do admit I may have missed things that may have been published on the
subject of sex changes.

However, I do quite a bit of reading one the freshwater side, both
popular and scientific, and there are few reports of sex changes in
aquaria. Since the statement did reference freshwater fish, I stand by
my original statement.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Aquati
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some
livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance
all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at
about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially
marine
fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same
time.
:)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only
happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex
by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if
there
are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I
have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same
place.


><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http:/
/www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I
got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another
from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and
if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing
the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off,
swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or
anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt
each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18643 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
I'm sorry Steve, I am more geared to Marine aquaria. And it is a very interesting topic.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 9:45 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish


From your cite:
http://www.augsburg.edu/home/biology/aquaria/SpecialTopicsFiles/f_SexLiv
esOfReefFish.html

The first sentence reads:
"Though sex change is rare in freshwater fish, many species of reef fish
undergo gender transformations."

And that is exactly my point. We are talking freshwater fish as was the
original statement made about freshwater fish.

Your other two links are strictly marine fish oriented, and do not
mention a thing about freshwater. (BTW, for those of you looking for
that first link, use:
http://www.szgdocent.org/resource/ff/f-reef3a.htm. Somehow Sissy's
picked up an extra three characters at the end of her link.)

So, I still stand by my original statement that sex change is a rare
occurrence and not often seen in aquaria. In the context of the original
post, this is a true statement, and as the thread has evolved it is a
true statement still when talking about freshwater fish.

Had the original statement been made about a marine fish, I'd not have
even entered the topic, but just read and learned. For instance, I was
not aware of the ability of males in some marine species to become
females. Nor was I aware that some could change sex several times during
their life span. This should make for some interesting reading when I
have the time to follow up on it. It is a shame that neither of the
articles give any references to pursue.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

From http://www.szgdocent.org/resource/ff/f-reef3a.htmrom

How many genders can a fish have? Some fish are both male and female
simultaneously (hermaphrodite), others are sequential hermaphrodites:
born male then change to females (protandry), yet others are born female
then change to males (protogyny). Some can change only once, others can
switch back to their original gender!

To confuse matters further in some species of Parrotfish, some members
are born primary males which don't change sex, others as secondary males
which can change to females. The primary males or Super Male is usually
large and dominates the harem. The smaller secondary male, however, gets
to mate when the Super Male is distracted with a female elsewhere, or
may even sneak in by pretending to be a female!

from http://dsc.discovery.com/news/afp/20031027/sexchange.html

Oct. 27, 2003 - Species that automatically change sex do so when they
reach nearly three-quarters of their maximum size, neatly proving a
cornerstone of evolutionary theory, scientists said.

Dozens of animal species, from types of fish and crustaceans to mollusks
and worms, spontaneously change sex as a result of the pressures for
survival and reproduction.

In the case of the clownfish, a favorite of aquarium-lovers, the gender
bending is taken to extremes - males can not only switch to female, but
also increase in size to become the alpha-breeder in their piscatorial
group.

From
http://www.augsburg.edu/home/biology/aquaria/SpecialTopicsFiles/f_SexLiv
esOfReefFish.html

Some marine fish take these confusing matters of gender one step
further. For example, some gobies can change sex and then change back
again, depending on the ratio of males and females in the local area.
Still other reef fish are simultaneous hermaphrodites. For example, in
many of the dwarf seabasses and the related hamlets, each fish is
functionally both male and female! Some dwarf seabasses form long-term
monogamous pairs, which spawn together each evening during the breeding
season. In successive spawnings during a given evening, members of these
pairs will trade off between laying eggs and fertilizing their mates'
eggs.

Makes sexing fish kinda difficult LOL
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:31 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Cites, please, then. I just have not seen this in the literature I
have
been reading, hence my stand.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 10:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Reserch my frien , you'll find what I said is true.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Sissy,

What you see in fry is normal development. The die has already been
cast
for each fish to be male or female. No magic there. So far as I am
aware, once the change has been made, even in the marine fish, there
is
no going back, as it were to the original sex. The transformation from
female to male is one that is done in the absence of males in the
population. None of the reading I have done has indicated that a male
population will produce females by changing sex.

There is one hermaphroditic fish of which I am aware. It is a
killifish,
and native populations can be found in the Gulf coastal areas. It is
known as _Rivulus marmoratus_ . For those who do not know, a
hermaphrodite is a creature that has both male and female sex organs
and
can also produce young when in a solitary state.

Marine fish are the ones most prone to sex changing. Since I do not
keep
marine fish, my reading in this area is a bit skimpy, and full of
holes,
which is why I do not discuss strictly marine topics here. Also, one
goes by published reports, and with the holes in my marine knowledge,
I
do admit I may have missed things that may have been published on the
subject of sex changes.

However, I do quite a bit of reading one the freshwater side, both
popular and scientific, and there are few reports of sex changes in
aquaria. Since the statement did reference freshwater fish, I stand by
my original statement.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Aquati
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some
livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance
all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at
about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially
marine
fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same
time.
:)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only
happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex
by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if
there
are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I
have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same
place.

><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http:/
/www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I
got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another
from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and
if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing
the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off,
swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or
anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt
each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
><mailto:jfazio%40prioritiesonline.com>jfazio@...
>[]
>
>"Let us run while you get other things done"
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18644 From: deborahgd14 Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Steve: I have had hydra infest my tanks for a few months now. I
got it from a well-known killie breeder who had it in his tanks. He
gave me some java moss. This has been a nightmare. I tried fluke
tabs (recommended from people on the web) - almost killed my fry who
were a few months old at the time (did get rid of it in that tank,
though). I tried the salt method and it didn't seem to cut it. A
well-known aquarist, Wilma Duncan, was referred to me. She uses
Aquari-sol to get rid of it. When she sets up a breeding tank, she
adds this to it. I did two treatments and thought I was rid of it,
unfortunately, I see some today. This has been a royal pain and I
hope no one else gets it. Deborah
ps I have moved fry and the hydra came with them (via the net
hitting the tank getting the fry?)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Harry,
>
> I've seen a number of anecdotal reports tying hydra to baby brine
> shrimp. However, there has been no real mention of the source of
the
> eggs in most of the reports, but those that do mention a source
say they
> come from the Great Salt Lake in Utah.
>
> As you seem to suspect, I cannot tie the two together as a cause
and
> result, because the BBS are salt water and hydra, in these
instances,
> are freshwater creatures, so it is unlikely that the BBS are the
source
> of the hydra. It is more likely the hydra are hitchhikers on
plants,
> fish, snails, and other freshwater introductions into the aquarium.
> Perhaps only one or two individuals. Introduction of the BBS is
not only
> a good food for the fish, but for the hydra, and heavy feeding of
the
> fish with BBS will then lead to an explosion in the hydra
population,
> since BBS is also a good food for the hydra.
>
> Since BBS is not often fed to adult fish, and when it is, it is
likely
> that the adult fish may eat the larger hydra--some fish, such as
> gouramis are known for liking to eat hydra--causing the hydra
population
> to remain under control, and thus less noticeable to the aquarist.
> However, fry are often fed BBS and they hydra population in a fry
tank
> may undergo explosive growth because there is a plentiful food
source
> (BBS, and, if the fry are small enough, possibly the occasional
fry) and
> no predators, i.e., adult fish.
>
> Reported methods of removing hydra, other than adult fish, are
likely to
> harm the fry, and include a drug, the name escapes me right now,
copper
> and electricity, though it is not clear to me whether the
electricity
> killed the hydra or the copper from the electrodes.
>
> Your best bet would probably be to grow out the fry and move them
to
> another tank, and then treat the fry tank for the hydra, while
watching
> the new fry tank for signs that some hydra have moved with your
fish.
>
> Oh, for those of you out there who may be thinking,, "well, the
hydra
> are on the glass, so if I crush the ones I see, I'll be rid of
them!".
> Please do not follow through on that thought. Many of the pieces,
if not
> all, will develop into new hydra, and you will be far worse off
than if
> you had done nothing. Hydra have that wonderful trait known as
> regeneration, and if you were to slice a hydra into a number of
parts,
> they will regenerate into new hydra, giving you the same number of
hydra
> as parts. Hydra are relatively simple animals and the cells do not
have
> that much differentiation, so you can have relatively small pieces
of a
> hydra that can regenerate into an eventual adult hydra.
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18645 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
The active ingredient is copper sulfate--see my previous post about hydra. If you are using Aquari-Sol, follow the directions explicitly so you do not incur losses in your aquarium (except for the critters you want to be rid of).

When you transferred fish, you likely picked up some small hydra or pieces of hydra along with the fish.

Ain't hydra fun? <G>


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of deborahgd14
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:44 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras

Steve: I have had hydra infest my tanks for a few months now. I
got it from a well-known killie breeder who had it in his tanks. He
gave me some java moss. This has been a nightmare. I tried fluke
tabs (recommended from people on the web) - almost killed my fry who
were a few months old at the time (did get rid of it in that tank,
though). I tried the salt method and it didn't seem to cut it. A
well-known aquarist, Wilma Duncan, was referred to me. She uses
Aquari-sol to get rid of it. When she sets up a breeding tank, she
adds this to it. I did two treatments and thought I was rid of it,
unfortunately, I see some today. This has been a royal pain and I
hope no one else gets it. Deborah
ps I have moved fry and the hydra came with them (via the net
hitting the tank getting the fry?)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Harry,
>
> I've seen a number of anecdotal reports tying hydra to baby brine
> shrimp. However, there has been no real mention of the source of
the
> eggs in most of the reports, but those that do mention a source
say they
> come from the Great Salt Lake in Utah.
>
> As you seem to suspect, I cannot tie the two together as a cause
and
> result, because the BBS are salt water and hydra, in these
instances,
> are freshwater creatures, so it is unlikely that the BBS are the
source
> of the hydra. It is more likely the hydra are hitchhikers on
plants,
> fish, snails, and other freshwater introductions into the aquarium.
> Perhaps only one or two individuals. Introduction of the BBS is
not only
> a good food for the fish, but for the hydra, and heavy feeding of
the
> fish with BBS will then lead to an explosion in the hydra
population,
> since BBS is also a good food for the hydra.
>
> Since BBS is not often fed to adult fish, and when it is, it is
likely
> that the adult fish may eat the larger hydra--some fish, such as
> gouramis are known for liking to eat hydra--causing the hydra
population
> to remain under control, and thus less noticeable to the aquarist.
> However, fry are often fed BBS and they hydra population in a fry
tank
> may undergo explosive growth because there is a plentiful food
source
> (BBS, and, if the fry are small enough, possibly the occasional
fry) and
> no predators, i.e., adult fish.
>
> Reported methods of removing hydra, other than adult fish, are
likely to
> harm the fry, and include a drug, the name escapes me right now,
copper
> and electricity, though it is not clear to me whether the
electricity
> killed the hydra or the copper from the electrodes.
>
> Your best bet would probably be to grow out the fry and move them
to
> another tank, and then treat the fry tank for the hydra, while
watching
> the new fry tank for signs that some hydra have moved with your
fish.
>
> Oh, for those of you out there who may be thinking,, "well, the
hydra
> are on the glass, so if I crush the ones I see, I'll be rid of
them!".
> Please do not follow through on that thought. Many of the pieces,
if not
> all, will develop into new hydra, and you will be far worse off
than if
> you had done nothing. Hydra have that wonderful trait known as
> regeneration, and if you were to slice a hydra into a number of
parts,
> they will regenerate into new hydra, giving you the same number of
hydra
> as parts. Hydra are relatively simple animals and the cells do not
have
> that much differentiation, so you can have relatively small pieces
of a
> hydra that can regenerate into an eventual adult hydra.
>
>
>





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18646 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody stools
Haven't you mentioned on this forum before, Steve, that a goldfish needs 30
gallons of water per fish? In this instance, multiple goldfish are being
kept in a 5 gallon tank. I assume that must contribute to the difficulty in
keeping the tank clean.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 9:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Bloody stools



First, one should never ever dispose of a fish by placing it in a
natural waterway, and this includes golf course ponds. If your fish were
ill, as you suspected, this could cause the other fish that may be in
that pond to become ill, and possibly die. Not to mention the
possibility of the illness spreading to other bodies of water
transferred by birds and other animals.

If you did want to dispose of the fish, and not treat it, you should
have euthanized it. The easiest way would have been to place the fish in
a bag with enough water to cover and then place the bag in the freezer
for several hours.

The big belly you mention could be a characteristic of the variety of
goldfish you had. Since you do not mention the variety, one can only
surmise. I'll leave comments on possible causes to others who are more
familiar with disease of goldfish than I, should they care to take a
stab at possible causes, but without the fish any longer, it is rather
pointless.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com> aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bloody stools

My fan tailed gold fish grew to three-times the size of the other gold
fish
in the tank. It became the bully fish discouraging the others from
eating,
in fact. The tank was really foul smelling and we decided to change
the
water. Both gold fish did fine with the change but the big one began
exuding
long, large trails of fecal material. When I lifted those out I
noticed they
were filled with blood. The fish was not just large but had what some
my call
a beer belly. I began wondering if he/she might have tumor or
something.

I must add that there is nothing more we can do about the bully fish.
We
decided to save our tank and the other fish therein and took him down to
the
pond in the golf course outside our back door. Considering his tenacity
I
wouldn't be surprised that he will make it and grow and grow and grow.
I felt
awful doing that, but it was that or watch the other gold fish die from

starvation, plus the 5 gallon tank was getting so filthy from the bully
fish.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Signed, The Executioner





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18647 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to add
to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when feeding
the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as Steve
brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the least
even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in high
salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra eggs
with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-exist.

When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
possibility of this contamination might be with the use of Russian
harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco Bay
Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I., NBS,
Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and I've
(luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading that
the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as Steve
has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I would
think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or later by
now, since I use these cysts every day.

I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks too.
But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part of
their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS is
prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the Hydra
population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies, as one
of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed them BBS
regularly.

You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra, but
the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you said, you
wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry; you
may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing off
Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all are
taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you could
hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can apparently
leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at first I
was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for fry, and
keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change afterwards,
as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into solution, as
has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are: (1)
heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10 minutes.
(2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per gallon.
(7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
gallon).

Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be risky,
depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small fry up
to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of spreading the
Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal experience ,
hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
>
> My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra everywhere, I
am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot , consider
hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my fry.
>
> Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no hydra.
I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live food.
>
> There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and hydra, but
how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
>
> Harry
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18648 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
They are amazing !
How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they still appear.
I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into freshwater bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and bacteria when feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other times.
But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra excape being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in saltwater?
This question has always been a un-answered question on alot of discussion groups.
Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come from BS eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in a newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter, where else could they come from, if not the food?
Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small fry. This is my medication of choice. I use it
in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano anemones as well.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Raymond Wetzel
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras


Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to add
to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when feeding
the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as Steve
brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the least
even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in high
salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra eggs
with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-exist.

When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
possibility of this contamination might be with the use of Russian
harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco Bay
Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I., NBS,
Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and I've
(luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading that
the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as Steve
has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I would
think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or later by
now, since I use these cysts every day.

I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks too.
But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part of
their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS is
prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the Hydra
population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies, as one
of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed them BBS
regularly.

You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra, but
the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you said, you
wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry; you
may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing off
Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all are
taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you could
hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can apparently
leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at first I
was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for fry, and
keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change afterwards,
as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into solution, as
has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are: (1)
heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10 minutes.
(2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per gallon.
(7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
gallon).

Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be risky,
depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small fry up
to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of spreading the
Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal experience ,
hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
>
> My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra everywhere, I
am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot , consider
hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my fry.
>
> Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no hydra.
I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live food.
>
> There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and hydra, but
how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
>
> Harry
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18649 From: harry perry Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish/Steve and Sissy
I have come across this many times. In literature and posts. To me, if a fish can change sex at the beginning of their lives, this doesn't surprise me. Most animals fish and otherwise have a tremendously strong instinct for"propagation of species"i.e. an all female brood developing some males. However for them to change back again flys in the face of logic for me.

The time it takes for a fish to evolve "other" reproduction systems is of course in direct proportion to their life span. I can see this happening in a matter of months for some species.

As this fish matures,salt or fresh, both male and female reproduction systems would have to be present from the beginning. Maybe that's what we're looking at.

Both systems are present, the one that is needed at the time is utilized.

An interesting subject for me.

Harry

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Cites, please, then. I just have not seen this in the literature I have
been reading, hence my stand.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 10:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Reserch my frien , you'll find what I said is true.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Sissy,

What you see in fry is normal development. The die has already been
cast
for each fish to be male or female. No magic there. So far as I am
aware, once the change has been made, even in the marine fish, there
is
no going back, as it were to the original sex. The transformation from
female to male is one that is done in the absence of males in the
population. None of the reading I have done has indicated that a male
population will produce females by changing sex.

There is one hermaphroditic fish of which I am aware. It is a
killifish,
and native populations can be found in the Gulf coastal areas. It is
known as _Rivulus marmoratus_ . For those who do not know, a
hermaphrodite is a creature that has both male and female sex organs
and
can also produce young when in a solitary state.

Marine fish are the ones most prone to sex changing. Since I do not
keep
marine fish, my reading in this area is a bit skimpy, and full of
holes,
which is why I do not discuss strictly marine topics here. Also, one
goes by published reports, and with the holes in my marine knowledge,
I
do admit I may have missed things that may have been published on the
subject of sex changes.

However, I do quite a bit of reading one the freshwater side, both
popular and scientific, and there are few reports of sex changes in
aquaria. Since the statement did reference freshwater fish, I stand by
my original statement.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Actually Steve, I have seen it in aquariums in several species, some
livebearers , Cichlids and marine clown and gobys . From my experance
all the fry from one spawning will all be the same sex, then change at
about 3-6 months. Some fish can change back and forth, especially
marine
fish. Some fish can be Hermaphrodite, male and female at the same
time.
:)

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

The sex change you mention is a rather rare occurrence and only
happens in females. It is rarely seen in aquaria.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aquarium newbie guppy q

well get some females they must be deperate lol. Also did tell the sex
by the rod shape because some livebearers can change their sex if
there
are two of one sex in it.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Okay, will do, but the two I
have now are both
males. Would a male be chasing another male in
the same way as he would a female? Thanks for your help. Jeannie

At 11:30 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:

>Guppyies are a livebearer. The male livebearers
>always go after females to mate. You need to get
>a couple more females or he will stress here
>out. Giving him optional females allows the
>other females he isnt chasing to rest. That is
>natural. When you look under the fish you will
>see a fin on the female that is spread out on
>the males there is a rod shapt shaft. The
>picture given is of a male you can see the rod
>right under the fish. The female has a spread out fin in the same
place.

><http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043>http:/
/www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1043
>
>
>
>jfazio <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...> wrote:
>Hi All:
>
>I have two new guppies in my 3 month old cycled aquarium. The one I
got
>first (a week earlier) keeps chasing the second, new guppy. I put a
>partition in, but then all they wanted to do was approach one another
from
>their side of the net. Two days later, I've let them be together, and
if
>one isn't constantly chasing the other (usually the older one chasing
the
>new one), then the tables reverse with the new one chasing back. This
>isn't just a matter of swimming together. They cut each other off,
swim
>above and below one another, but nobody seems to be biting or
anything like
>that. Is this a guppy thing or should I worry that they will hurt
each
>other? They are two different types of male guppies.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
>207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m:
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18650 From: harry perry Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras/as usual, thank you to all.
I started this post to learn. You folks didn't let me down. I'm saving these posts to a folder. Thank you so much.

Harry

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: They are amazing !
How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they still appear.
I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into freshwater bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and bacteria when feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other times.
But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra excape being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in saltwater?
This question has always been a un-answered question on alot of discussion groups.
Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come from BS eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in a newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter, where else could they come from, if not the food?
Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small fry. This is my medication of choice. I use it
in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano anemones as well.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Raymond Wetzel
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras

Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to add
to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when feeding
the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as Steve
brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the least
even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in high
salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra eggs
with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-exist.

When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
possibility of this contamination might be with the use of Russian
harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco Bay
Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I., NBS,
Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and I've
(luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading that
the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as Steve
has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I would
think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or later by
now, since I use these cysts every day.

I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks too.
But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part of
their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS is
prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the Hydra
population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies, as one
of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed them BBS
regularly.

You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra, but
the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you said, you
wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry; you
may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing off
Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all are
taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you could
hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can apparently
leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at first I
was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for fry, and
keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change afterwards,
as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into solution, as
has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are: (1)
heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10 minutes.
(2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per gallon.
(7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
gallon).

Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be risky,
depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small fry up
to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of spreading the
Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal experience ,
hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
>
> My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra everywhere, I
am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot , consider
hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my fry.
>
> Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no hydra.
I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live food.
>
> There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and hydra, but
how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
>
> Harry
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18651 From: harry perry Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: hydra, another option.
You folks got me thinking. I went to a collection of books left to me by my father.

The book is called "How to keep and breed tropical fish by Dr. C. W. Emmens

Copyright 1962 the following ia a direct quote. " In nearly all cases Hydra may be eliminated in the presence of fry by adding ammonium nitrate or sulfate to the water.

The appropriate quantity is 5 grains per gallon (90 milligrams per gallon, or 1 part in 11,000 approximately),added already dissolved in a little water and well stirred up.The temp. is then raised by 5 to 10 degrees F. It is essential not to allow the ammonium salt solution to form a layer at the bottom which will kill the fry. The treatment is best given after feeding the Hydra well. They do not disappear dramatically but fade away over the course of the next few days".

So now we have another option to get rid of them. Any comments? But we still don't know how they got there, maybe they were always there.

Harry



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18652 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Is Hydra like a freshwater anemone?

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to add
to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when feeding
the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as Steve
brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the least
even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in high
salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra eggs
with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-exist.

When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
possibility of this contamination might be with the use of Russian
harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco Bay
Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I., NBS,
Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and I've
(luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading that
the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as Steve
has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I would
think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or later by
now, since I use these cysts every day.

I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks too.
But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part of
their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS is
prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the Hydra
population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies, as one
of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed them BBS
regularly.

You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra, but
the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you said, you
wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry; you
may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing off
Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all are
taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you could
hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can apparently
leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at first I
was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for fry, and
keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change afterwards,
as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into solution, as
has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are: (1)
heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10 minutes.
(2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per gallon.
(7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
gallon).

Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be risky,
depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small fry up
to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of spreading the
Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal experience ,
hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
>
> My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra everywhere, I
am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot , consider
hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my fry.
>
> Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no hydra.
I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live food.
>
> There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and hydra, but
how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
>
> Harry
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18653 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: experation on seachem products
So I have some flourish excel and some prime water conditioner from seachem
and I am wondering if this stuff ever expires.. I believe I bought it about 2
years ago and stopped using it about a year and half for no particular
reason.. but as I am adding plants back into my tank im wondering if I can use the
flourish excel still.. I don't see any markings on the bottle with a date or
anything.. thanks Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18654 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
If it has been refrigerated (as it says on my bottles) then it should be alright. If not, I have no idea. Seachem excel, Iron and flourish I use on my plants. In my estimation, it is the best and I have always used it, no other can compair to it to the best of my knowledge. If there are other products better than seachem then I would like to know of them.

Take care all,

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/


----- Original Message -----
From: agentscullyeyore@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 3:04 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] experation on seachem products


So I have some flourish excel and some prime water conditioner from seachem
and I am wondering if this stuff ever expires.. I believe I bought it about 2
years ago and stopped using it about a year and half for no particular
reason.. but as I am adding plants back into my tank im wondering if I can use the
flourish excel still.. I don't see any markings on the bottle with a date or
anything.. thanks Shannon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18655 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
oh man refrigerate I don't do that with anything they have never been
refrigerated.. crap did I miss that warning.. I love flourish as well but it was
spendy so I didn't want to have to buy more if this was ok... thanks for the
help.. Shannon




If it has been refrigerated (as it says on my bottles) then it should be
alright. If not, I have no idea. Seachem excel, Iron and flourish I use on my
plants. In my estimation, it is the best and I have always used it, no other
can compair to it to the best of my knowledge. If there are other products
better than seachem then I would like to know of them.

Take care all,

Ivan








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18656 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Well use it anyway, you will know if it is working. I do not think they deteriorate that easily, but they could especailly if they have avaporated a little and therefore perhaps concentrated a little. Then if it worries you, buy new as I think that is why I would do if they were not refrigerated. Regrigeration keeps them from going bad I guess.

Take care

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/

----- Original Message -----
From: agentscullyeyore@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] experation on seachem products



oh man refrigerate I don't do that with anything they have never been
refrigerated.. crap did I miss that warning.. I love flourish as well but it was
spendy so I didn't want to have to buy more if this was ok... thanks for the
help.. Shannon

If it has been refrigerated (as it says on my bottles) then it should be
alright. If not, I have no idea. Seachem excel, Iron and flourish I use on my
plants. In my estimation, it is the best and I have always used it, no other
can compair to it to the best of my knowledge. If there are other products
better than seachem then I would like to know of them.

Take care all,

Ivan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18657 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
so Ivan then I should always keep it in the refrig ?? shannon




Well use it anyway, you will know if it is working. I do not think they
deteriorate that easily, but they could especailly if they have avaporated a
little and therefore perhaps concentrated a little. Then if it worries you, buy
new as I think that is why I would do if they were not refrigerated.
Regrigeration keeps them from going bad I guess.

Take care

Ivan








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18658 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Well that is what I do with mine. It said on one of my bottles of it as I remember reading it, to keep refrigerated after opening and so I do. That is all I can tell you. I believe it was on the flourish bottle, but I assume it applies to all their products. Helps keep it fresh.

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/

----- Original Message -----
From: agentscullyeyore@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] experation on seachem products


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18659 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Kinda here is a good link for info on them :
http://www.northern.edu/natsource/INVERT1/Hydra1.htm
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras


Is Hydra like a freshwater anemone?

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to add
to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when feeding
the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as Steve
brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the least
even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in high
salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra eggs
with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-exist.

When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
possibility of this contamination might be with the use of Russian
harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco Bay
Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I., NBS,
Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and I've
(luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading that
the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as Steve
has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I would
think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or later by
now, since I use these cysts every day.

I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks too.
But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part of
their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS is
prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the Hydra
population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies, as one
of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed them BBS
regularly.

You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra, but
the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you said, you
wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry; you
may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing off
Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all are
taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you could
hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can apparently
leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at first I
was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for fry, and
keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change afterwards,
as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into solution, as
has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are: (1)
heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10 minutes.
(2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per gallon.
(7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
gallon).

Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be risky,
depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small fry up
to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of spreading the
Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal experience ,
hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
>
> My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra everywhere, I
am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot , consider
hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my fry.
>
> Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no hydra.
I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live food.
>
> There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and hydra, but
how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
>
> Harry
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>


---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18660 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/printthread.php?t=23090

Im lookin Steve.

Steve why not try it put a few female swordtails and see if one changes. Ive seen it for myself so I already know the answer.

----------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

Cites, please, then. I just have not seen this in the literature I have
been reading, hence my stand.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18661 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Steve why dont you believe people who had it done?

Im not a beginner here.

----------------------------------------------------
Steve Szabo wrote:

From your cite:

http://www.augsburg.edu/home/biology/aquaria/SpecialTopicsFiles/f_SexLivesOfReefFish.html

The first sentence reads:
"Though sex change is rare in freshwater fish, many species of reef fish undergo gender transformations."

And that is exactly my point. We are talking freshwater fish as was the original statement made about freshwater fish.

Your other two links are strictly marine fish oriented, and do not
mention a thing about freshwater.
(BTW, for those of you looking for that first link, use:
http://www.szgdocent.org/resource/ff/f-reef3a.htm - Somehow Sissy's
picked up an extra three characters at the end of her link.)

So, I still stand by my original statement that sex change is a rare
occurrence and not often seen in aquaria. In the context of the original post, this is a true statement, and as the thread has evolved it is a true statement still when talking about freshwater fish.

Had the original statement been made about a marine fish, I'd not have
even entered the topic, but just read and learned. For instance, I was
not aware of the ability of males in some marine species to become
females. Nor was I aware that some could change sex several times during their life span. This should make for some interesting reading when I have the time to follow up on it. It is a shame that neither of the articles give any references to pursue.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre

From http://www.szgdocent.org/resource/ff/f-reef3a.htmrom

How many genders can a fish have? Some fish are both male and female
simultaneously (hermaphrodite), others are sequential hermaphrodites:
born male then change to females (protandry), yet others are born female then change to males (protogyny). Some can change only once, others can switch back to their original gender!

To confuse matters further in some species of Parrotfish, some members
are born primary males which don't change sex, others as secondary males which can change to females. The primary males or Super Male is usually large and dominates the harem. The smaller secondary male, however, gets to mate when the Super Male is distracted with a female elsewhere, or may even sneak in by pretending to be a female!

from http://dsc.discovery.com/news/afp/20031027/sexchange.html

Oct. 27, 2003 - Species that automatically change sex do so when they
reach nearly three-quarters of their maximum size, neatly proving a
cornerstone of evolutionary theory, scientists said.

Dozens of animal species, from types of fish and crustaceans to mollusks and worms, spontaneously change sex as a result of the pressures for survival and reproduction.

In the case of the clownfish, a favorite of aquarium-lovers, the gender bending is taken to extremes - males can not only switch to female, but also increase in size to become the alpha-breeder in their piscatorial group.

From-

http://www.augsburg.edu/home/biology/aquaria/SpecialTopicsFiles/f_SexLivesOfReefFish.html

Some marine fish take these confusing matters of gender one step
further. For example, some gobies can change sex and then change back
again, depending on the ratio of males and females in the local area.
Still other reef fish are simultaneous hermaphrodites. For example, in
many of the dwarf seabasses and the related hamlets, each fish is
functionally both male and female! Some dwarf seabasses form long-term
monogamous pairs, which spawn together each evening during the breeding season. In successive spawnings during a given evening, members of these pairs will trade off between laying eggs and fertilizing their mates' eggs.

Makes sexing fish kinda difficult LOL

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18662 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bloody stools
Indeed, I have and, indeed, it would. To me the main thrust of the post was that he had released a captive fish into a 'natural" setting. Natural in quotes because he stated a golf course pond, which may be man made, and have no connection with other water.

If he ahs posted again, and want more information, I'll be glad to provide it, if it is something I can provide and have the time to answer (I got called out early this afternoon, and have just returned from working on a downed server).


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 12:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Bloody stools

Haven't you mentioned on this forum before, Steve, that a goldfish needs 30
gallons of water per fish? In this instance, multiple goldfish are being
kept in a 5 gallon tank. I assume that must contribute to the difficulty in
keeping the tank clean.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 9:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Bloody stools



First, one should never ever dispose of a fish by placing it in a
natural waterway, and this includes golf course ponds. If your fish were
ill, as you suspected, this could cause the other fish that may be in
that pond to become ill, and possibly die. Not to mention the
possibility of the illness spreading to other bodies of water
transferred by birds and other animals.

If you did want to dispose of the fish, and not treat it, you should
have euthanized it. The easiest way would have been to place the fish in
a bag with enough water to cover and then place the bag in the freezer
for several hours.

The big belly you mention could be a characteristic of the variety of
goldfish you had. Since you do not mention the variety, one can only
surmise. I'll leave comments on possible causes to others who are more
familiar with disease of goldfish than I, should they care to take a
stab at possible causes, but without the fish any longer, it is rather
pointless.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com> aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bloody stools

My fan tailed gold fish grew to three-times the size of the other gold
fish
in the tank. It became the bully fish discouraging the others from
eating,
in fact. The tank was really foul smelling and we decided to change
the
water. Both gold fish did fine with the change but the big one began
exuding
long, large trails of fecal material. When I lifted those out I
noticed they
were filled with blood. The fish was not just large but had what some
my call
a beer belly. I began wondering if he/she might have tumor or
something.

I must add that there is nothing more we can do about the bully fish.
We
decided to save our tank and the other fish therein and took him down to
the
pond in the golf course outside our back door. Considering his tenacity
I
wouldn't be surprised that he will make it and grow and grow and grow.
I felt
awful doing that, but it was that or watch the other gold fish die from

starvation, plus the 5 gallon tank was getting so filthy from the bully
fish.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Signed, The Executioner





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18663 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Joe,

I have not said that sex change does not happen, but that it is rare in
the aquarium. I have not disputed your assertion that you have seen it
happen, though I may remain skeptical.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 2:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sex Change in fish

Steve why dont you believe people who had it done?

Im not a beginner here.

----------------------------------------------------
Steve Szabo wrote:

From your cite:

http://www.augsburg.edu/home/biology/aquaria/SpecialTopicsFiles/f_SexLiv
esOfReefFish.html

The first sentence reads:
"Though sex change is rare in freshwater fish, many species of reef fish
undergo gender transformations."

And that is exactly my point. We are talking freshwater fish as was the
original statement made about freshwater fish.

Your other two links are strictly marine fish oriented, and do not
mention a thing about freshwater.
(BTW, for those of you looking for that first link, use:
http://www.szgdocent.org/resource/ff/f-reef3a.htm - Somehow Sissy's
picked up an extra three characters at the end of her link.)

So, I still stand by my original statement that sex change is a rare
occurrence and not often seen in aquaria. In the context of the original
post, this is a true statement, and as the thread has evolved it is a
true statement still when talking about freshwater fish.

Had the original statement been made about a marine fish, I'd not have
even entered the topic, but just read and learned. For instance, I was
not aware of the ability of males in some marine species to become
females. Nor was I aware that some could change sex several times during
their life span. This should make for some interesting reading when I
have the time to follow up on it. It is a shame that neither of the
articles give any references to pursue.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre

From http://www.szgdocent.org/resource/ff/f-reef3a.htmrom

How many genders can a fish have? Some fish are both male and female
simultaneously (hermaphrodite), others are sequential hermaphrodites:
born male then change to females (protandry), yet others are born female
then change to males (protogyny). Some can change only once, others can
switch back to their original gender!

To confuse matters further in some species of Parrotfish, some members
are born primary males which don't change sex, others as secondary males
which can change to females. The primary males or Super Male is usually
large and dominates the harem. The smaller secondary male, however, gets
to mate when the Super Male is distracted with a female elsewhere, or
may even sneak in by pretending to be a female!

from http://dsc.discovery.com/news/afp/20031027/sexchange.html

Oct. 27, 2003 - Species that automatically change sex do so when they
reach nearly three-quarters of their maximum size, neatly proving a
cornerstone of evolutionary theory, scientists said.

Dozens of animal species, from types of fish and crustaceans to mollusks
and worms, spontaneously change sex as a result of the pressures for
survival and reproduction.

In the case of the clownfish, a favorite of aquarium-lovers, the gender
bending is taken to extremes - males can not only switch to female, but
also increase in size to become the alpha-breeder in their piscatorial
group.

From-

http://www.augsburg.edu/home/biology/aquaria/SpecialTopicsFiles/f_SexLiv
esOfReefFish.html

Some marine fish take these confusing matters of gender one step
further. For example, some gobies can change sex and then change back
again, depending on the ratio of males and females in the local area.
Still other reef fish are simultaneous hermaphrodites. For example, in
many of the dwarf seabasses and the related hamlets, each fish is
functionally both male and female! Some dwarf seabasses form long-term
monogamous pairs, which spawn together each evening during the breeding
season. In successive spawnings during a given evening, members of these
pairs will trade off between laying eggs and fertilizing their mates'
eggs.

Makes sexing fish kinda difficult LOL

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18664 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
You'll also find that ammonium nitrate cure in Innes. The volume I
looked at was the 19th Edition Revised with a copyright of 1966, but I
know I have seen it in earlier volumes than that. I have also found a
reference to the ammonium nitrate cure in an article ("Hydra") by Albert
J. Klee published in the November, 1958 issue of Aquarium Journal. No
doubt the cure is even older than that. If I have the time and
inclination while this thread is still active, I'll see if I can find
older references, or maybe Ray will step in with some. (My library is in
disarray right now, located in 6 or seven areas as I am trying to sort
through and put in some logical order, as well as record what I have.)

Hydra are mentioned as coming in on plants and snails, or in pond water
used for infusoria.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 3:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] hydra, another option.

You folks got me thinking. I went to a collection of books left to me by
my father.

The book is called "How to keep and breed tropical fish by Dr. C. W.
Emmens

Copyright 1962 the following ia a direct quote. " In nearly all cases
Hydra may be eliminated in the presence of fry by adding ammonium
nitrate or sulfate to the water.

The appropriate quantity is 5 grains per gallon (90 milligrams per
gallon, or 1 part in 11,000 approximately),added already dissolved in a
little water and well stirred up.The temp. is then raised by 5 to 10
degrees F. It is essential not to allow the ammonium salt solution to
form a layer at the bottom which will kill the fry. The treatment is
best given after feeding the Hydra well. They do not disappear
dramatically but fade away over the course of the next few days".

So now we have another option to get rid of them. Any comments? But we
still don't know how they got there, maybe they were always there.

Harry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18665 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape being
killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with the
BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are hatched
out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental effect
on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more than
0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt per
gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5% solution of
salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough salt
to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on them. I
am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when feeding
BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them as
its reputed to do.

Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
(Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it will
not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve) almost
lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole (as
Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
towards hydra.

It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are much
more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get hydra in
such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any other
tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any other
explanation. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> They are amazing !
> How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
> I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they still
appear.
> I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into freshwater
bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and bacteria when
feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other times.
> But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra excape
being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in saltwater?
> This question has always been a un-answered question on alot of
discussion groups.
> Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come from BS
eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a
nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in a
newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter, where
else could they come from, if not the food?
> Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted
critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small fry.
This is my medication of choice. I use it
> in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano
anemones as well.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Raymond Wetzel
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
>
>
> Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to
add
> to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when
feeding
> the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as Steve
> brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the
least
> even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
> eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in high
> salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra
eggs
> with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-
exist.
>
> When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
> possibility of this contamination might be with the use of
Russian
> harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
> couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
> using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco
Bay
> Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I., NBS,
> Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and
I've
> (luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading
that
> the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as
Steve
> has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I would
> think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or
later by
> now, since I use these cysts every day.
>
> I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
> Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
> suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks too.
> But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part of
> their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS
is
> prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the Hydra
> population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
> tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies, as
one
> of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed them
BBS
> regularly.
>
> You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra,
but
> the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you said,
you
> wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry;
you
> may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing
off
> Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
> sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
> method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all
are
> taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you
could
> hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
> familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can
apparently
> leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at
first I
> was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for fry,
and
> keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change
afterwards,
> as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into
solution, as
> has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are:
(1)
> heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10
minutes.
> (2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
> Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
> gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per
gallon.
> (7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
> gallon).
>
> Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be
risky,
> depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small fry
up
> to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of spreading
the
> Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal
experience ,
> hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
> >
> > My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra
everywhere, I
> am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot ,
consider
> hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my
fry.
> >
> > Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no
hydra.
> I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live
food.
> >
> > There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and hydra,
but
> how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
> >
> > Harry
> >
> >
> > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
> Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18666 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
If you go to the Seachem site (http://www.seachem.com) and click on
Library/Support, they have a link to a form to ask a question, so you
can inquire about the viability of the products. Mention that they have
not been refrigerated, as it says on the bottle--I did not see anything
in the product description about refrigeration--so you can get an
accurate answer. They also offer a toll-free number.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] experation on seachem products

So I have some flourish excel and some prime water conditioner from
seachem
and I am wondering if this stuff ever expires.. I believe I bought it
about 2
years ago and stopped using it about a year and half for no particular
reason.. but as I am adding plants back into my tank im wondering if I
can use the
flourish excel still.. I don't see any markings on the bottle with a
date or
anything.. thanks Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18667 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
Harry, While I dont have that book in my library, I do recognize the
author and title as being respectible. While this may seem like a
worthwhile suggestion, you may not that I already mentioned ammonium
nitrate as a possible hydra eradicator. I do like the part where it
can be used in the presence of fry, but the question remains . . .
Where can you get this?

I do question the necessity of raising the temperature 5 or 10
degrees, as while this compound will not act dramatically, a 10
degree increase will make the hydra multiply very dramatically. It
is good to note that the treatment should be administered after
feeding the hydra well, but how long would that good feeding last,
certainly not "over the course of the next few days?" -- so I fail to
understand the merits of this. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> You folks got me thinking. I went to a collection of books left to
me by my father.
>
> The book is called "How to keep and breed tropical fish by Dr. C.
W. Emmens
>
> Copyright 1962 the following ia a direct quote. " In nearly all
cases Hydra may be eliminated in the presence of fry by adding
ammonium nitrate or sulfate to the water.
>
> The appropriate quantity is 5 grains per gallon (90 milligrams per
gallon, or 1 part in 11,000 approximately),added already dissolved
in a little water and well stirred up.The temp. is then raised by 5
to 10 degrees F. It is essential not to allow the ammonium salt
solution to form a layer at the bottom which will kill the fry. The
treatment is best given after feeding the Hydra well. They do not
disappear dramatically but fade away over the course of the next few
days".
>
> So now we have another option to get rid of them. Any comments? But
we still don't know how they got there, maybe they were always there.
>
> Harry
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18668 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006
About the apparent release of lionfish (_Pterois volitans_) into
southern US coastal waters of the Atlantic ocean. Possible source
include hobbyists, Hurricane Andrew, and tour boat operators.

http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20060909/bob9.asp

Proposed remedies could me problems for hobbyists of all stripes.

\\Steve//
While there may be no such thing as a dumb question,
there are certainly dumb answers.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18669 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Ray, I got Panacur from my vet, Its a powder. I dont know what strenght it is but I use 1/16 teaspone for 50 gal.s. It maybe equal to a half dose of Fenbendazole !
In saltwater aquariums they are almost always present, sometimes more in some cases than others. I believe that some fish eat them is way they are not as many in some tanks, wrasse's for example eat them.
I hatch my brine shrimp in a salinity of 1.027+
I keep fish only tanks at 1.017 and reef tanks at 1.022-1.024. I think the hydra is at home in saltwater and live and multiply . I can see chains of them from time to time on the glass.
Yes I have a fish room with 335 gals of freshwater tanks and 1,335 gal.s of saltwater aquariums, not including 6 fish styros that use as culture containers. So yes maybe airborn.
I only found out about panacur last year, when I started raising seahorses. Hydra was a problem, so I serched for a cure on the net. I have had no problems with the ponys using it. After feeding, I always syphon the bottom and change small amounts of water, with the panacur already in it.


Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Raymond Wetzel
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras


Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape being
killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with the
BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are hatched
out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental effect
on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more than
0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt per
gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5% solution of
salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough salt
to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on them. I
am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when feeding
BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them as
its reputed to do.

Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
(Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it will
not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve) almost
lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole (as
Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
towards hydra.

It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are much
more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get hydra in
such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any other
tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any other
explanation. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> They are amazing !
> How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
> I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they still
appear.
> I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into freshwater
bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and bacteria when
feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other times.
> But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra excape
being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in saltwater?
> This question has always been a un-answered question on alot of
discussion groups.
> Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come from BS
eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a
nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in a
newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter, where
else could they come from, if not the food?
> Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted
critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small fry.
This is my medication of choice. I use it
> in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano
anemones as well.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Raymond Wetzel
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
>
>
> Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to
add
> to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when
feeding
> the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as Steve
> brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the
least
> even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
> eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in high
> salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra
eggs
> with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-
exist.
>
> When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
> possibility of this contamination might be with the use of
Russian
> harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
> couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
> using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco
Bay
> Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I., NBS,
> Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and
I've
> (luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading
that
> the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as
Steve
> has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I would
> think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or
later by
> now, since I use these cysts every day.
>
> I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
> Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
> suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks too.
> But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part of
> their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS
is
> prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the Hydra
> population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
> tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies, as
one
> of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed them
BBS
> regularly.
>
> You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra,
but
> the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you said,
you
> wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry;
you
> may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing
off
> Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
> sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
> method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all
are
> taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you
could
> hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
> familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can
apparently
> leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at
first I
> was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for fry,
and
> keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change
afterwards,
> as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into
solution, as
> has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are:
(1)
> heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10
minutes.
> (2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
> Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
> gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per
gallon.
> (7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
> gallon).
>
> Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be
risky,
> depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small fry
up
> to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of spreading
the
> Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal
experience ,
> hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
> >
> > My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra
everywhere, I
> am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot ,
consider
> hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my
fry.
> >
> > Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no
hydra.
> I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live
food.
> >
> > There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and hydra,
but
> how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
> >
> > Harry
> >
> >
> > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
> Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18670 From: harry perry Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online,/Steve
An interesting article. Thank you. My only experience with lionfish is sushi. Lionfish make good sushi.

Harry

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: About the apparent release of lionfish (_Pterois volitans_) into
southern US coastal waters of the Atlantic ocean. Possible source
include hobbyists, Hurricane Andrew, and tour boat operators.

http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20060909/bob9.asp

Proposed remedies could me problems for hobbyists of all stripes.

\\Steve//
While there may be no such thing as a dumb question,
there are certainly dumb answers.






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18671 From: harry perry Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option. Ray
Come to think of it ammonium nitrate was used in the Oaklahoma city bombing.

I don't want the F.B.I. following me home.

Harry

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Harry, While I dont have that book in my library, I do recognize the
author and title as being respectible. While this may seem like a
worthwhile suggestion, you may not that I already mentioned ammonium
nitrate as a possible hydra eradicator. I do like the part where it
can be used in the presence of fry, but the question remains . . .
Where can you get this?

I do question the necessity of raising the temperature 5 or 10
degrees, as while this compound will not act dramatically, a 10
degree increase will make the hydra multiply very dramatically. It
is good to note that the treatment should be administered after
feeding the hydra well, but how long would that good feeding last,
certainly not "over the course of the next few days?" -- so I fail to
understand the merits of this. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> You folks got me thinking. I went to a collection of books left to
me by my father.
>
> The book is called "How to keep and breed tropical fish by Dr. C.
W. Emmens
>
> Copyright 1962 the following ia a direct quote. " In nearly all
cases Hydra may be eliminated in the presence of fry by adding
ammonium nitrate or sulfate to the water.
>
> The appropriate quantity is 5 grains per gallon (90 milligrams per
gallon, or 1 part in 11,000 approximately),added already dissolved
in a little water and well stirred up.The temp. is then raised by 5
to 10 degrees F. It is essential not to allow the ammonium salt
solution to form a layer at the bottom which will kill the fry. The
treatment is best given after feeding the Hydra well. They do not
disappear dramatically but fade away over the course of the next few
days".
>
> So now we have another option to get rid of them. Any comments? But
we still don't know how they got there, maybe they were always there.
>
> Harry
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18672 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
Happening upon this at a late hour while having nothing else to do
except watch my fish grow (I should be sleeping!), I came across
another mention of using ammonium nitrate for getting rid of hydra.
I cheated a little though, as I found it in the 1952 book "Aquarium
Highlights" by Innes, which is a compilation of the best articles of
his "The Aquarium" magazine going back to 1932. I didn't find it in
the actual issue of that magazine title but will check into it in the
morning out of curiosity, although it may require going through as
many as 20 years (1932 -- 1952) worth of magazines. On second
thought . . . well, maybe I'll find it fast (hope, hope). While not
offering a method to eliminate them, C.H. Peters describes hydra as
often coming in with the collecting of live food, in his book "Life
and Love in the Aquarium" (1934). Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You'll also find that ammonium nitrate cure in Innes. The volume I
> looked at was the 19th Edition Revised with a copyright of 1966,
but I
> know I have seen it in earlier volumes than that. I have also found
a
> reference to the ammonium nitrate cure in an article ("Hydra") by
Albert
> J. Klee published in the November, 1958 issue of Aquarium Journal.
No
> doubt the cure is even older than that. If I have the time and
> inclination while this thread is still active, I'll see if I can
find
> older references, or maybe Ray will step in with some. (My library
is in
> disarray right now, located in 6 or seven areas as I am trying to
sort
> through and put in some logical order, as well as record what I
have.)
>
> Hydra are mentioned as coming in on plants and snails, or in pond
water
> used for infusoria.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of harry perry
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 3:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] hydra, another option.
>
> You folks got me thinking. I went to a collection of books left to
me by
> my father.
>
> The book is called "How to keep and breed tropical fish by Dr. C. W.
> Emmens
>
> Copyright 1962 the following ia a direct quote. " In nearly all
cases
> Hydra may be eliminated in the presence of fry by adding ammonium
> nitrate or sulfate to the water.
>
> The appropriate quantity is 5 grains per gallon (90 milligrams per
> gallon, or 1 part in 11,000 approximately),added already dissolved
in a
> little water and well stirred up.The temp. is then raised by 5 to
10
> degrees F. It is essential not to allow the ammonium salt solution
to
> form a layer at the bottom which will kill the fry. The treatment is
> best given after feeding the Hydra well. They do not disappear
> dramatically but fade away over the course of the next few days".
>
> So now we have another option to get rid of them. Any comments? But
we
> still don't know how they got there, maybe they were always there.
>
> Harry
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18673 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006
Can you believe it! I been following this story for 5 years, just more and more of them each year being reported. I'm surprised, with the water being so cool in the carolinas.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:28 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006


About the apparent release of lionfish (_Pterois volitans_) into
southern US coastal waters of the Atlantic ocean. Possible source
include hobbyists, Hurricane Andrew, and tour boat operators.

http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20060909/bob9.asp

Proposed remedies could me problems for hobbyists of all stripes.

\\Steve//
While there may be no such thing as a dumb question,
there are certainly dumb answers.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18674 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
thanks Steve that is some good insight... I checked all over my two bottles
and no mention of any kind of care or refrigeration... Shannon




If you go to the Seachem site (_http://www.seachem.htt_
(http://www.seachem.com/) ) and click on
Library/Support, they have a link to a form to ask a question, so you
can inquire about the viability of the products. Mention that they have
not been refrigerated, as it says on the bottle--I did not see anything
in the product description about refrigeration-in the product descrip
accurate answer. They also offer a toll-free number.

\\Steve//








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18675 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/9/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Sissy, Your measure of 1/16 tsp for 50 gallons may be equivilent to
my half-dose of Fluke-Tabs (Flubendazole), as widely recommended in
the hobbyists circle to get rid of hydra. The recommended full dose
of Flubendazole for treat Flukes, etc., is one 500 mg tablet per 10
gallons, so in milligrams a half-dose for 50 gallons would be 1250
mg. Anyone out there good at converting milligrams to teaspoons? It
does sound about right though, as I try to visualize it.

From what I'm reading of your reply, it appears that the salt
recommendation for getting rid of hydra should be considered to be
thrown out the window if the hydra will live in a marine
environment. Well, I'm sure Harry is adding greatly to his notebook,
as are many others of us, if this is the case. By comparing notes,
at least we may be able to dwindle down to what might work best.

I kind of gathered you were a lot more heavily into saltwater
aquariums. This is starting to come in handy here. By "culture
containers" (styro's), I presume you mean for use in raising live
foods(?). We can probably rule those environments out for hydra, but
you never know !!! (LOL). That airborn possibility is scary if true,
but that would explain a lot of weird spreading of this pest where
ordinarily there would be no opportunity for it to spread, not that I
want to jump to conclusions. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray, I got Panacur from my vet, Its a powder. I dont know what
strenght it is but I use 1/16 teaspone for 50 gal.s. It maybe equal
to a half dose of Fenbendazole !
> In saltwater aquariums they are almost always present, sometimes
more in some cases than others. I believe that some fish eat them is
way they are not as many in some tanks, wrasse's for example eat them.
> I hatch my brine shrimp in a salinity of 1.027+
> I keep fish only tanks at 1.017 and reef tanks at 1.022-1.024. I
think the hydra is at home in saltwater and live and multiply . I can
see chains of them from time to time on the glass.
> Yes I have a fish room with 335 gals of freshwater tanks and 1,335
gal.s of saltwater aquariums, not including 6 fish styros that use
as culture containers. So yes maybe airborn.
> I only found out about panacur last year, when I started raising
seahorses. Hydra was a problem, so I serched for a cure on the net. I
have had no problems with the ponys using it. After feeding, I always
syphon the bottom and change small amounts of water, with the panacur
already in it.
>
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Raymond Wetzel
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:46 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
>
>
> Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
being
> killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with
the
> BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
hatched
> out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
effect
> on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more
than
> 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt per
> gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5% solution
of
> salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
salt
> to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on them.
I
> am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when
feeding
> BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
as
> its reputed to do.
>
> Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
will
> not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
almost
> lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
(as
> Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> towards hydra.
>
> It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are much
> more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get hydra
in
> such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
other
> tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
other
> explanation. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> wrote:
> >
> > They are amazing !
> > How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
> > I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they
still
> appear.
> > I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into
freshwater
> bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and bacteria
when
> feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other
times.
> > But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra
excape
> being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in
saltwater?
> > This question has always been a un-answered question on alot of
> discussion groups.
> > Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come from
BS
> eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a
> nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in a
> newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter,
where
> else could they come from, if not the food?
> > Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted
> critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small fry.
> This is my medication of choice. I use it
> > in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano
> anemones as well.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> >
> >
> > Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to
> add
> > to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when
> feeding
> > the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as
Steve
> > brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the
> least
> > even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
> > eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in
high
> > salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra
> eggs
> > with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-
> exist.
> >
> > When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
> > possibility of this contamination might be with the use of
> Russian
> > harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
> > couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
> > using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco
> Bay
> > Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I.,
NBS,
> > Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and
> I've
> > (luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading
> that
> > the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as
> Steve
> > has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I
would
> > think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or
> later by
> > now, since I use these cysts every day.
> >
> > I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
> > Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
> > suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks
too.
> > But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part
of
> > their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS
> is
> > prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the
Hydra
> > population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
> > tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies,
as
> one
> > of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed
them
> BBS
> > regularly.
> >
> > You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra,
> but
> > the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you
said,
> you
> > wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry;
> you
> > may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing
> off
> > Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
> > sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
> > method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all
> are
> > taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you
> could
> > hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
> > familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can
> apparently
> > leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at
> first I
> > was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for
fry,
> and
> > keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change
> afterwards,
> > as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into
> solution, as
> > has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are:
> (1)
> > heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10
> minutes.
> > (2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
> > Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
> > gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per
> gallon.
> > (7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
> > gallon).
> >
> > Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be
> risky,
> > depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small
fry
> up
> > to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of
spreading
> the
> > Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry
<harryfisherman@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal
> experience ,
> > hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
> > >
> > > My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra
> everywhere, I
> > am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot ,
> consider
> > hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my
> fry.
> > >
> > > Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no
> hydra.
> > I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live
> food.
> > >
> > > There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and
hydra,
> but
> > how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
> > >
> > > Harry
> > >
> > >
> > > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone
calls.
> > Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18676 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
Greetings,

I just went and got my bottle out of the refrigerator, seachem flourish, and it does say, refrigeration recommeneded after opening, but not required, that is where I got that from and I just purchased this bottle from fosters and smith. Now if you think I am wrong, I shall shut my mouth..

Thanks,

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/


----- Original Message -----
From: agentscullyeyore@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:17 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] experation on seachem products



thanks Steve that is some good insight... I checked all over my two bottles
and no mention of any kind of care or refrigeration... Shannon

If you go to the Seachem site (_http://www.seachem.htt_
(http://www.seachem.com/) ) and click on
Library/Support, they have a link to a form to ask a question, so you
can inquire about the viability of the products. Mention that they have
not been refrigerated, as it says on the bottle--I did not see anything
in the product description about refrigeration-in the product descrip
accurate answer. They also offer a toll-free number.

\\Steve//

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18677 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
Ray,

Didn't mean you should stay up all night looking <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 2:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: hydra, another option.

Happening upon this at a late hour while having nothing else to do
except watch my fish grow (I should be sleeping!), I came across
another mention of using ammonium nitrate for getting rid of hydra.
I cheated a little though, as I found it in the 1952 book "Aquarium
Highlights" by Innes, which is a compilation of the best articles of
his "The Aquarium" magazine going back to 1932. I didn't find it in
the actual issue of that magazine title but will check into it in the
morning out of curiosity, although it may require going through as
many as 20 years (1932 -- 1952) worth of magazines. On second
thought . . . well, maybe I'll find it fast (hope, hope). While not
offering a method to eliminate them, C.H. Peters describes hydra as
often coming in with the collecting of live food, in his book "Life
and Love in the Aquarium" (1934). Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You'll also find that ammonium nitrate cure in Innes. The volume I
> looked at was the 19th Edition Revised with a copyright of 1966,
but I
> know I have seen it in earlier volumes than that. I have also found
a
> reference to the ammonium nitrate cure in an article ("Hydra") by
Albert
> J. Klee published in the November, 1958 issue of Aquarium Journal.
No
> doubt the cure is even older than that. If I have the time and
> inclination while this thread is still active, I'll see if I can
find
> older references, or maybe Ray will step in with some. (My library
is in
> disarray right now, located in 6 or seven areas as I am trying to
sort
> through and put in some logical order, as well as record what I
have.)
>
> Hydra are mentioned as coming in on plants and snails, or in pond
water
> used for infusoria.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of harry perry
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 3:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] hydra, another option.
>
> You folks got me thinking. I went to a collection of books left to
me by
> my father.
>
> The book is called "How to keep and breed tropical fish by Dr. C. W.
> Emmens
>
> Copyright 1962 the following ia a direct quote. " In nearly all
cases
> Hydra may be eliminated in the presence of fry by adding ammonium
> nitrate or sulfate to the water.
>
> The appropriate quantity is 5 grains per gallon (90 milligrams per
> gallon, or 1 part in 11,000 approximately),added already dissolved
in a
> little water and well stirred up.The temp. is then raised by 5 to
10
> degrees F. It is essential not to allow the ammonium salt solution
to
> form a layer at the bottom which will kill the fry. The treatment is
> best given after feeding the Hydra well. They do not disappear
> dramatically but fade away over the course of the next few days".
>
> So now we have another option to get rid of them. Any comments? But
we
> still don't know how they got there, maybe they were always there.
>
> Harry
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18678 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
There are several species of hydra. It seems that there are freshwater and others are saltwater. The freshwater hydra cannot live in a marine environment. I would presume that the saltwater hydra cannot live in freshwater, but I have not seen anything yet regarding this, but, as I have mentioned my knowledge of things marine is skimpy at best, and my library also reflects this. One may also need to look at the scientific literature here.

I was no table to find anything definitive in a quick web and journal search, but did find some photos of several freshwater species of hydra (http://www.nig.ac.jp/labs/OntoGen/home.html) and an article on predation of bluegill larvae in a Canadian lake (http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_42/issue_6/1416.pdf). An interesting aside that I did not follow up on was the use of hydra to determine potablility of water for humans.

However, swinging back to the topic, if there are freshwater and marine species, I would believe that water of the opposite type would remove the hydra from consideration. Hydra are relatively simple animals, and as such probably do not have the mechanisms that would allow survival in a radically different environment for any length of time.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 2:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras

Sissy, Your measure of 1/16 tsp for 50 gallons may be equivilent to
my half-dose of Fluke-Tabs (Flubendazole), as widely recommended in
the hobbyists circle to get rid of hydra. The recommended full dose
of Flubendazole for treat Flukes, etc., is one 500 mg tablet per 10
gallons, so in milligrams a half-dose for 50 gallons would be 1250
mg. Anyone out there good at converting milligrams to teaspoons? It
does sound about right though, as I try to visualize it.

From what I'm reading of your reply, it appears that the salt
recommendation for getting rid of hydra should be considered to be
thrown out the window if the hydra will live in a marine
environment. Well, I'm sure Harry is adding greatly to his notebook,
as are many others of us, if this is the case. By comparing notes,
at least we may be able to dwindle down to what might work best.

I kind of gathered you were a lot more heavily into saltwater
aquariums. This is starting to come in handy here. By "culture
containers" (styro's), I presume you mean for use in raising live
foods(?). We can probably rule those environments out for hydra, but
you never know !!! (LOL). That airborn possibility is scary if true,
but that would explain a lot of weird spreading of this pest where
ordinarily there would be no opportunity for it to spread, not that I
want to jump to conclusions. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray, I got Panacur from my vet, Its a powder. I dont know what
strenght it is but I use 1/16 teaspone for 50 gal.s. It maybe equal
to a half dose of Fenbendazole !
> In saltwater aquariums they are almost always present, sometimes
more in some cases than others. I believe that some fish eat them is
way they are not as many in some tanks, wrasse's for example eat them.
> I hatch my brine shrimp in a salinity of 1.027+
> I keep fish only tanks at 1.017 and reef tanks at 1.022-1.024. I
think the hydra is at home in saltwater and live and multiply . I can
see chains of them from time to time on the glass.
> Yes I have a fish room with 335 gals of freshwater tanks and 1,335
gal.s of saltwater aquariums, not including 6 fish styros that use
as culture containers. So yes maybe airborn.
> I only found out about panacur last year, when I started raising
seahorses. Hydra was a problem, so I serched for a cure on the net. I
have had no problems with the ponys using it. After feeding, I always
syphon the bottom and change small amounts of water, with the panacur
already in it.
>
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Raymond Wetzel
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:46 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
>
>
> Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
being
> killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with
the
> BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
hatched
> out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
effect
> on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more
than
> 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt per
> gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5% solution
of
> salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
salt
> to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on them.
I
> am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when
feeding
> BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
as
> its reputed to do.
>
> Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
will
> not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
almost
> lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
(as
> Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> towards hydra.
>
> It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are much
> more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get hydra
in
> such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
other
> tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
other
> explanation. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> wrote:
> >
> > They are amazing !
> > How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
> > I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they
still
> appear.
> > I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into
freshwater
> bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and bacteria
when
> feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other
times.
> > But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra
excape
> being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in
saltwater?
> > This question has always been a un-answered question on alot of
> discussion groups.
> > Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come from
BS
> eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a
> nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in a
> newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter,
where
> else could they come from, if not the food?
> > Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted
> critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small fry.
> This is my medication of choice. I use it
> > in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano
> anemones as well.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> >
> >
> > Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to
> add
> > to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when
> feeding
> > the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as
Steve
> > brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the
> least
> > even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
> > eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in
high
> > salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra
> eggs
> > with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-
> exist.
> >
> > When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
> > possibility of this contamination might be with the use of
> Russian
> > harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
> > couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
> > using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco
> Bay
> > Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I.,
NBS,
> > Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and
> I've
> > (luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading
> that
> > the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as
> Steve
> > has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I
would
> > think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or
> later by
> > now, since I use these cysts every day.
> >
> > I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
> > Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
> > suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks
too.
> > But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part
of
> > their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS
> is
> > prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the
Hydra
> > population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
> > tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies,
as
> one
> > of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed
them
> BBS
> > regularly.
> >
> > You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra,
> but
> > the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you
said,
> you
> > wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry;
> you
> > may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing
> off
> > Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
> > sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
> > method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all
> are
> > taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you
> could
> > hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
> > familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can
> apparently
> > leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at
> first I
> > was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for
fry,
> and
> > keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change
> afterwards,
> > as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into
> solution, as
> > has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are:
> (1)
> > heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10
> minutes.
> > (2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
> > Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
> > gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per
> gallon.
> > (7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
> > gallon).
> >
> > Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be
> risky,
> > depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small
fry
> up
> > to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of
spreading
> the
> > Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry
<harryfisherman@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal
> experience ,
> > hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
> > >
> > > My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra
> everywhere, I
> > am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot ,
> consider
> > hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my
> fry.
> > >
> > > Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no
> hydra.
> > I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live
> food.
> > >
> > > There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and
hydra,
> but
> > how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
> > >
> > > Harry
> > >
> > >
> > > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone
calls.
> > Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18679 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Ray, I have a custumer name Dennis Wetzel in Odessa,TX. any kin?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Raymond Wetzel
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:50 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras


Sissy, Your measure of 1/16 tsp for 50 gallons may be equivilent to
my half-dose of Fluke-Tabs (Flubendazole), as widely recommended in
the hobbyists circle to get rid of hydra. The recommended full dose
of Flubendazole for treat Flukes, etc., is one 500 mg tablet per 10
gallons, so in milligrams a half-dose for 50 gallons would be 1250
mg. Anyone out there good at converting milligrams to teaspoons? It
does sound about right though, as I try to visualize it.

From what I'm reading of your reply, it appears that the salt
recommendation for getting rid of hydra should be considered to be
thrown out the window if the hydra will live in a marine
environment. Well, I'm sure Harry is adding greatly to his notebook,
as are many others of us, if this is the case. By comparing notes,
at least we may be able to dwindle down to what might work best.

I kind of gathered you were a lot more heavily into saltwater
aquariums. This is starting to come in handy here. By "culture
containers" (styro's), I presume you mean for use in raising live
foods(?). We can probably rule those environments out for hydra, but
you never know !!! (LOL). That airborn possibility is scary if true,
but that would explain a lot of weird spreading of this pest where
ordinarily there would be no opportunity for it to spread, not that I
want to jump to conclusions. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray, I got Panacur from my vet, Its a powder. I dont know what
strenght it is but I use 1/16 teaspone for 50 gal.s. It maybe equal
to a half dose of Fenbendazole !
> In saltwater aquariums they are almost always present, sometimes
more in some cases than others. I believe that some fish eat them is
way they are not as many in some tanks, wrasse's for example eat them.
> I hatch my brine shrimp in a salinity of 1.027+
> I keep fish only tanks at 1.017 and reef tanks at 1.022-1.024. I
think the hydra is at home in saltwater and live and multiply . I can
see chains of them from time to time on the glass.
> Yes I have a fish room with 335 gals of freshwater tanks and 1,335
gal.s of saltwater aquariums, not including 6 fish styros that use
as culture containers. So yes maybe airborn.
> I only found out about panacur last year, when I started raising
seahorses. Hydra was a problem, so I serched for a cure on the net. I
have had no problems with the ponys using it. After feeding, I always
syphon the bottom and change small amounts of water, with the panacur
already in it.
>
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Raymond Wetzel
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:46 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
>
>
> Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
being
> killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with
the
> BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
hatched
> out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
effect
> on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more
than
> 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt per
> gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5% solution
of
> salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
salt
> to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on them.
I
> am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when
feeding
> BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
as
> its reputed to do.
>
> Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
will
> not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
almost
> lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
(as
> Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> towards hydra.
>
> It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are much
> more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get hydra
in
> such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
other
> tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
other
> explanation. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> wrote:
> >
> > They are amazing !
> > How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
> > I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they
still
> appear.
> > I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into
freshwater
> bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and bacteria
when
> feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other
times.
> > But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra
excape
> being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in
saltwater?
> > This question has always been a un-answered question on alot of
> discussion groups.
> > Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come from
BS
> eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a
> nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in a
> newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter,
where
> else could they come from, if not the food?
> > Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted
> critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small fry.
> This is my medication of choice. I use it
> > in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano
> anemones as well.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> >
> >
> > Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to
> add
> > to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when
> feeding
> > the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as
Steve
> > brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the
> least
> > even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
> > eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in
high
> > salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra
> eggs
> > with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-
> exist.
> >
> > When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
> > possibility of this contamination might be with the use of
> Russian
> > harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
> > couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
> > using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco
> Bay
> > Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I.,
NBS,
> > Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and
> I've
> > (luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading
> that
> > the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as
> Steve
> > has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I
would
> > think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or
> later by
> > now, since I use these cysts every day.
> >
> > I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
> > Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
> > suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks
too.
> > But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part
of
> > their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS
> is
> > prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the
Hydra
> > population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
> > tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies,
as
> one
> > of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed
them
> BBS
> > regularly.
> >
> > You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra,
> but
> > the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you
said,
> you
> > wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry;
> you
> > may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing
> off
> > Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
> > sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
> > method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all
> are
> > taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you
> could
> > hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
> > familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can
> apparently
> > leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at
> first I
> > was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for
fry,
> and
> > keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change
> afterwards,
> > as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into
> solution, as
> > has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are:
> (1)
> > heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10
> minutes.
> > (2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
> > Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
> > gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per
> gallon.
> > (7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
> > gallon).
> >
> > Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be
> risky,
> > depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small
fry
> up
> > to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of
spreading
> the
> > Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry
<harryfisherman@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal
> experience ,
> > hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
> > >
> > > My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra
> everywhere, I
> > am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot ,
> consider
> > hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my
> fry.
> > >
> > > Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no
> hydra.
> > I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live
> food.
> > >
> > > There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and
hydra,
> but
> > how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
> > >
> > > Harry
> > >
> > >
> > > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone
calls.
> > Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18680 From: hank voss Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
> I have not said that sex change does not happen, but that it is
rare in
> the aquarium. I have not disputed your assertion that you have
seen it
> happen, though I may rem
>
====================================
Hi all:
After following this thread i have to put in my 2 cents
worth.For the last 65 yrs ive kept fish i have seen quite a few sex
reversals(in adults)mainly females to males,mostly in live bearers
occ. in egg layers.ITs not rare but not that common either.The
livebearers look like males and try to do all the things a normal
male tries to do.They are probably mules i dont know since i never
tried to breed them. with the swordtails the converts were large
since the females are larger than the males only they do not get a
very large sword(usually 1/2 normal size).This relates to fresh
water only,since salt water is not my bag even though reversal in
salt water is not uncommon (in certain fish).From what ive read.
Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18681 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Your measure of 1/16 tsp for 50 gallons may be equivilent to
my half-dose of Fluke-Tabs (Flubendazole

Maybe........, I use 1/8 teaspoon for pest anemones and bristle worms. It tanks about 2 weeks to kill them at this does, but it still does not interupt the bacteria bed. You can also lower the salinity to 1.017 for speeding up the process. Caution with it's use for any marine aquariest reading this, it will kill anykind of worms including, tube,coco,feather dusters,spaghettii, and most polops. I find it strange that is dose not affect any sponges that might be on your rock. I have NEVER used it on reef tanks. What I do is pull the rocks that need cleaning and treat them in a hospital tank.
.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Raymond Wetzel
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:50 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras


Sissy, Your measure of 1/16 tsp for 50 gallons may be equivilent to
my half-dose of Fluke-Tabs (Flubendazole), as widely recommended in
the hobbyists circle to get rid of hydra. The recommended full dose
of Flubendazole for treat Flukes, etc., is one 500 mg tablet per 10
gallons, so in milligrams a half-dose for 50 gallons would be 1250
mg. Anyone out there good at converting milligrams to teaspoons? It
does sound about right though, as I try to visualize it.

From what I'm reading of your reply, it appears that the salt
recommendation for getting rid of hydra should be considered to be
thrown out the window if the hydra will live in a marine
environment. Well, I'm sure Harry is adding greatly to his notebook,
as are many others of us, if this is the case. By comparing notes,
at least we may be able to dwindle down to what might work best.

I kind of gathered you were a lot more heavily into saltwater
aquariums. This is starting to come in handy here. By "culture
containers" (styro's), I presume you mean for use in raising live
foods(?). We can probably rule those environments out for hydra, but
you never know !!! (LOL). That airborn possibility is scary if true,
but that would explain a lot of weird spreading of this pest where
ordinarily there would be no opportunity for it to spread, not that I
want to jump to conclusions. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray, I got Panacur from my vet, Its a powder. I dont know what
strenght it is but I use 1/16 teaspone for 50 gal.s. It maybe equal
to a half dose of Fenbendazole !
> In saltwater aquariums they are almost always present, sometimes
more in some cases than others. I believe that some fish eat them is
way they are not as many in some tanks, wrasse's for example eat them.
> I hatch my brine shrimp in a salinity of 1.027+
> I keep fish only tanks at 1.017 and reef tanks at 1.022-1.024. I
think the hydra is at home in saltwater and live and multiply . I can
see chains of them from time to time on the glass.
> Yes I have a fish room with 335 gals of freshwater tanks and 1,335
gal.s of saltwater aquariums, not including 6 fish styros that use
as culture containers. So yes maybe airborn.
> I only found out about panacur last year, when I started raising
seahorses. Hydra was a problem, so I serched for a cure on the net. I
have had no problems with the ponys using it. After feeding, I always
syphon the bottom and change small amounts of water, with the panacur
already in it.
>
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Raymond Wetzel
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:46 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
>
>
> Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
being
> killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with
the
> BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
hatched
> out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
effect
> on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more
than
> 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt per
> gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5% solution
of
> salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
salt
> to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on them.
I
> am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when
feeding
> BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
as
> its reputed to do.
>
> Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
will
> not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
almost
> lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
(as
> Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> towards hydra.
>
> It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are much
> more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get hydra
in
> such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
other
> tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
other
> explanation. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> wrote:
> >
> > They are amazing !
> > How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
> > I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they
still
> appear.
> > I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into
freshwater
> bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and bacteria
when
> feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other
times.
> > But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra
excape
> being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in
saltwater?
> > This question has always been a un-answered question on alot of
> discussion groups.
> > Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come from
BS
> eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a
> nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in a
> newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter,
where
> else could they come from, if not the food?
> > Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted
> critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small fry.
> This is my medication of choice. I use it
> > in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano
> anemones as well.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> >
> >
> > Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but to
> add
> > to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when
> feeding
> > the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as
Steve
> > brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the
> least
> > even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
> > eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in
high
> > salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in Hydra
> eggs
> > with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-
> exist.
> >
> > When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps the
> > possibility of this contamination might be with the use of
> Russian
> > harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even this
> > couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've been
> > using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San Francisco
> Bay
> > Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I.,
NBS,
> > Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish and
> I've
> > (luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading
> that
> > the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts, as
> Steve
> > has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I
would
> > think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or
> later by
> > now, since I use these cysts every day.
> >
> > I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
> > Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
> > suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks
too.
> > But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part
of
> > their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched BBS
> is
> > prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the
Hydra
> > population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to your
> > tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies,
as
> one
> > of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed
them
> BBS
> > regularly.
> >
> > You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat Hydra,
> but
> > the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you
said,
> you
> > wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of fry;
> you
> > may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in killing
> off
> > Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient - copper
> > sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The electrocution
> > method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure all
> are
> > taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you
> could
> > hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not personally
> > familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can
> apparently
> > leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at
> first I
> > was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for
fry,
> and
> > keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change
> afterwards,
> > as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into
> solution, as
> > has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication are:
> (1)
> > heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10
> minutes.
> > (2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
> > Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
> > gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per
> gallon.
> > (7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
> > gallon).
> >
> > Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be
> risky,
> > depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small
fry
> up
> > to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of
spreading
> the
> > Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry
<harryfisherman@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal
> experience ,
> > hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
> > >
> > > My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra
> everywhere, I
> > am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot ,
> consider
> > hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with my
> fry.
> > >
> > > Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no
> hydra.
> > I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer live
> food.
> > >
> > > There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and
hydra,
> but
> > how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your comments.
> > >
> > > Harry
> > >
> > >
> > > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone
calls.
> > Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18682 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
Good Morning Steve and Deb, No, actually I had just come back from a
meeting and was still wound up. Sometimes (usually) when I get on
the 'putor at that time I fall asleep at the keyboard (LOL); no
joke. Occassionally, I'm able to keep going. Am testing the
resistance of angels to hold up to increased dosages of Aquarisol for
Deborah who just can't shake this hydra thing, so I scheduled myself
for an added dosage of this to a small tank of a few angels set up
for this purpose, to be given when I got back from my meeting.

As everyone seems to agree, copper (or in this case, copper sulfate)
should take care of these pest hydra, but at what rate of Aquarisol?
I remember double, triple and even quadrupling the "12 drop per 10
gallon, as a tonic" recommendation years ago. But I just a few
minutes ago discovered that the formula has been drastically changed,
when I came across a bottle of the old stuff I had. Although it was
made by the same company (Aquarium Products) some years back -- (it
was at a different location; Baltimore, not Glen Burnie, MD as it is
today) -- its main ingredient back then was Zycosin (soluable Ag2O -
silver oxide), not the CuSO4 (copper sulfate) that it is today. That
can make a big difference in how much these fish can tolerate.

The odd thing is that the directions on both the old and new formulas
are not specific. They both recommend 12 drops per 10 gallons as a
disease preventative, and "ideal to use when adding new fish," which
sounds like a dose to be used as a general tonic. It goes on to
say ; "to use as a treatment : Add dosage and . . . ". That's fine -
- WHAT dosage? There is nothing spelled out as to how much to use
for a disease. If there were, perhaps we could go from there to
determine how much to use for hydra while still keeping our fish
alive through a risk of copper poisoning.

I did start looking through some old magazines this morning to check
on how far back remedies for hydra were recommended, and just what
they were, but when starting with the "Aquarium Life" series in 1915
and then looking through a few "Home Aquarium Bulletins" from
the '30's, I very soon was reminded that, unlike Innes' "The
Aquarium", these magazines for the most part did not have a Table of
Contents and realized looking through hundreds of magazines would
soon become a next to impossible task to undertake in short time.
I'll browse as time permits, as it would be good information to know,
but just can't spend hours on it now. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> Didn't mean you should stay up all night looking <g>.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 2:06 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: hydra, another option.
>
> Happening upon this at a late hour while having nothing else to do
> except watch my fish grow (I should be sleeping!), I came across
> another mention of using ammonium nitrate for getting rid of
hydra.
> I cheated a little though, as I found it in the 1952 book "Aquarium
> Highlights" by Innes, which is a compilation of the best articles
of
> his "The Aquarium" magazine going back to 1932. I didn't find it
in
> the actual issue of that magazine title but will check into it in
the
> morning out of curiosity, although it may require going through as
> many as 20 years (1932 -- 1952) worth of magazines. On second
> thought . . . well, maybe I'll find it fast (hope, hope). While
not
> offering a method to eliminate them, C.H. Peters describes hydra as
> often coming in with the collecting of live food, in his book "Life
> and Love in the Aquarium" (1934). Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > You'll also find that ammonium nitrate cure in Innes. The volume I
> > looked at was the 19th Edition Revised with a copyright of 1966,
> but I
> > know I have seen it in earlier volumes than that. I have also
found
> a
> > reference to the ammonium nitrate cure in an article ("Hydra") by
> Albert
> > J. Klee published in the November, 1958 issue of Aquarium
Journal.
> No
> > doubt the cure is even older than that. If I have the time and
> > inclination while this thread is still active, I'll see if I can
> find
> > older references, or maybe Ray will step in with some. (My
library
> is in
> > disarray right now, located in 6 or seven areas as I am trying to
> sort
> > through and put in some logical order, as well as record what I
> have.)
> >
> > Hydra are mentioned as coming in on plants and snails, or in pond
> water
> > used for infusoria.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of harry perry
> > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 3:07 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] hydra, another option.
> >
> > You folks got me thinking. I went to a collection of books left
to
> me by
> > my father.
> >
> > The book is called "How to keep and breed tropical fish by Dr. C.
W.
> > Emmens
> >
> > Copyright 1962 the following ia a direct quote. " In nearly all
> cases
> > Hydra may be eliminated in the presence of fry by adding ammonium
> > nitrate or sulfate to the water.
> >
> > The appropriate quantity is 5 grains per gallon (90 milligrams per
> > gallon, or 1 part in 11,000 approximately),added already
dissolved
> in a
> > little water and well stirred up.The temp. is then raised by 5
to
> 10
> > degrees F. It is essential not to allow the ammonium salt
solution
> to
> > form a layer at the bottom which will kill the fry. The treatment
is
> > best given after feeding the Hydra well. They do not disappear
> > dramatically but fade away over the course of the next few days".
> >
> > So now we have another option to get rid of them. Any comments?
But
> we
> > still don't know how they got there, maybe they were always there.
> >
> > Harry
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18683 From: hank voss Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
being
> killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with the
> BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
hatched
> out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
effect
> on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more than
> 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt per
> gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5% solution
of
> salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
salt
> to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on them.
I
> am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when feeding
> BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
as
> its reputed to do.
>
> Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
will
> not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
almost
> lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
(as
> Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> towards hydra.
>
> It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are much
> more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get hydra
in
> such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
other
> tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
other
> explanation. Ray
=============================
HI Ray:
More of my 2 cents worth.MOst hydra is introduced by way of
live foods esp. daphnie.I usually get rid of it by using salt.How
you get it?Air borne(possible)Also right through your tap water.Ever
fill up a vat of water and let it stand still for a couple of days
there is usually quite a bit of sediment on the bottom you only need
a small peice of hydra (or spores)to get it going.There is probably
a salt water verson of hydra and the two cant transfer from one
medium to the other at least in my opinion.
Regards Hank





> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18684 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Steve, While I realize that there are different species of hydra, of
varying sizes, I was not aware that there are two main environmental
groups of habitancy with one strictly freshwater and one strictly
marine. That sheds a whole different light on the picture and makes
me feel much better knowing there still is the possibility of
eradicating these freshwater pests with salt, as I had believed. My
marine knowledge is somewhat limited.

Concerning the incidental topic you came across on water potability,
I don't think I'd want to drink the water after hydra were teaming
through it -- YUCK! (LOL). Actually, I also realize how such tests
would go but had to throw some levity in here! Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> There are several species of hydra. It seems that there are
freshwater and others are saltwater. The freshwater hydra cannot live
in a marine environment. I would presume that the saltwater hydra
cannot live in freshwater, but I have not seen anything yet regarding
this, but, as I have mentioned my knowledge of things marine is
skimpy at best, and my library also reflects this. One may also need
to look at the scientific literature here.
>
> I was no table to find anything definitive in a quick web and
journal search, but did find some photos of several freshwater
species of hydra (http://www.nig.ac.jp/labs/OntoGen/home.html) and an
article on predation of bluegill larvae in a Canadian lake
(http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_42/issue_6/1416.pdf). An interesting
aside that I did not follow up on was the use of hydra to determine
potablility of water for humans.
>
> However, swinging back to the topic, if there are freshwater and
marine species, I would believe that water of the opposite type would
remove the hydra from consideration. Hydra are relatively simple
animals, and as such probably do not have the mechanisms that would
allow survival in a radically different environment for any length of
time.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 2:51 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
>
> Sissy, Your measure of 1/16 tsp for 50 gallons may be equivilent to
> my half-dose of Fluke-Tabs (Flubendazole), as widely recommended in
> the hobbyists circle to get rid of hydra. The recommended full
dose
> of Flubendazole for treat Flukes, etc., is one 500 mg tablet per 10
> gallons, so in milligrams a half-dose for 50 gallons would be 1250
> mg. Anyone out there good at converting milligrams to teaspoons?
It
> does sound about right though, as I try to visualize it.
>
> From what I'm reading of your reply, it appears that the salt
> recommendation for getting rid of hydra should be considered to be
> thrown out the window if the hydra will live in a marine
> environment. Well, I'm sure Harry is adding greatly to his
notebook,
> as are many others of us, if this is the case. By comparing notes,
> at least we may be able to dwindle down to what might work best.
>
> I kind of gathered you were a lot more heavily into saltwater
> aquariums. This is starting to come in handy here. By "culture
> containers" (styro's), I presume you mean for use in raising live
> foods(?). We can probably rule those environments out for hydra,
but
> you never know !!! (LOL). That airborn possibility is scary if
true,
> but that would explain a lot of weird spreading of this pest where
> ordinarily there would be no opportunity for it to spread, not that
I
> want to jump to conclusions. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Ray, I got Panacur from my vet, Its a powder. I dont know what
> strenght it is but I use 1/16 teaspone for 50 gal.s. It maybe equal
> to a half dose of Fenbendazole !
> > In saltwater aquariums they are almost always present, sometimes
> more in some cases than others. I believe that some fish eat them
is
> way they are not as many in some tanks, wrasse's for example eat
them.
> > I hatch my brine shrimp in a salinity of 1.027+
> > I keep fish only tanks at 1.017 and reef tanks at 1.022-1.024. I
> think the hydra is at home in saltwater and live and multiply . I
can
> see chains of them from time to time on the glass.
> > Yes I have a fish room with 335 gals of freshwater tanks and
1,335
> gal.s of saltwater aquariums, not including 6 fish styros that use
> as culture containers. So yes maybe airborn.
> > I only found out about panacur last year, when I started raising
> seahorses. Hydra was a problem, so I serched for a cure on the net.
I
> have had no problems with the ponys using it. After feeding, I
always
> syphon the bottom and change small amounts of water, with the
panacur
> already in it.
> >
> >
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:46 PM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> >
> >
> > Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
> being
> > killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> > saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with
> the
> > BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
> hatched
> > out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
> effect
> > on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more
> than
> > 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt
per
> > gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5%
solution
> of
> > salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
> salt
> > to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on
them.
> I
> > am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when
> feeding
> > BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> > environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
> as
> > its reputed to do.
> >
> > Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> > (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
> will
> > not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
> almost
> > lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> > strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
> (as
> > Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> > towards hydra.
> >
> > It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are
much
> > more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> > reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get
hydra
> in
> > such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
> other
> > tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> > airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
> other
> > explanation. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > They are amazing !
> > > How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
> > > I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they
> still
> > appear.
> > > I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into
> freshwater
> > bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and
bacteria
> when
> > feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other
> times.
> > > But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra
> excape
> > being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?
> > > This question has always been a un-answered question on alot
of
> > discussion groups.
> > > Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come
from
> BS
> > eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a
> > nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in
a
> > newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter,
> where
> > else could they come from, if not the food?
> > > Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted
> > critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small
fry.
> > This is my medication of choice. I use it
> > > in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano
> > anemones as well.
> > > Sissy Sathre
> > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> > >
> > >
> > > Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but
to
> > add
> > > to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when
> > feeding
> > > the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as
> Steve
> > > brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the
> > least
> > > even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
> > > eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in
> high
> > > salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in
Hydra
> > eggs
> > > with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-
> > exist.
> > >
> > > When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps
the
> > > possibility of this contamination might be with the use of
> > Russian
> > > harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even
this
> > > couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've
been
> > > using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San
Francisco
> > Bay
> > > Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I.,
> NBS,
> > > Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish
and
> > I've
> > > (luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading
> > that
> > > the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts,
as
> > Steve
> > > has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I
> would
> > > think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or
> > later by
> > > now, since I use these cysts every day.
> > >
> > > I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
> > > Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
> > > suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks
> too.
> > > But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part
> of
> > > their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched
BBS
> > is
> > > prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the
> Hydra
> > > population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to
your
> > > tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies,
> as
> > one
> > > of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed
> them
> > BBS
> > > regularly.
> > >
> > > You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat
Hydra,
> > but
> > > the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you
> said,
> > you
> > > wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of
fry;
> > you
> > > may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in
killing
> > off
> > > Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient -
copper
> > > sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The
electrocution
> > > method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure
all
> > are
> > > taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you
> > could
> > > hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not
personally
> > > familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can
> > apparently
> > > leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at
> > first I
> > > was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for
> fry,
> > and
> > > keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change
> > afterwards,
> > > as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into
> > solution, as
> > > has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication
are:
> > (1)
> > > heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10
> > minutes.
> > > (2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
> > > Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
> > > gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per
> > gallon.
> > > (7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
> > > gallon).
> > >
> > > Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be
> > risky,
> > > depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small
> fry
> > up
> > > to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of
> spreading
> > the
> > > Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry
> <harryfisherman@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal
> > experience ,
> > > hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
> > > >
> > > > My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra
> > everywhere, I
> > > am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot ,
> > consider
> > > hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with
my
> > fry.
> > > >
> > > > Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no
> > hydra.
> > > I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer
live
> > food.
> > > >
> > > > There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and
> hydra,
> > but
> > > how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your
comments.
> > > >
> > > > Harry
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> > > >
> > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone
> calls.
> > > Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18685 From: hank voss Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: hydra, another option.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Good Morning Steve and Deb,
>
> I did start looking through some old magazines this morning to
check
> on how far back remedies for hydra were recommended, and just what
> they were, but when starting with the "Aquarium Life" series in
1915
> and then looking through a few "Home Aquarium Bulletins" from
> the '30's, I very soon was reminded that, unlike Innes' "The
> Aquarium", these magazines for the most part did not have a Table
of
> Contents and realized looking through hundreds of magazines would
> soon become a next to impossible task to undertake in short time.
> I'll browse as time permits, as it would be good information to
know,
> but just can't spend hours on it now. Ray
> ========================

Ray:
MAKE TIME Ray(grin)

Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18686 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Sissy, Nope, no relationship there. Not really a common name
though. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray, I have a custumer name Dennis Wetzel in Odessa,TX. any kin?
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Raymond Wetzel
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:50 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
>
>
> Sissy, Your measure of 1/16 tsp for 50 gallons may be equivilent
to
> my half-dose of Fluke-Tabs (Flubendazole), as widely recommended
in
> the hobbyists circle to get rid of hydra. The recommended full
dose
> of Flubendazole for treat Flukes, etc., is one 500 mg tablet per
10
> gallons, so in milligrams a half-dose for 50 gallons would be
1250
> mg. Anyone out there good at converting milligrams to teaspoons?
It
> does sound about right though, as I try to visualize it.
>
> From what I'm reading of your reply, it appears that the salt
> recommendation for getting rid of hydra should be considered to
be
> thrown out the window if the hydra will live in a marine
> environment. Well, I'm sure Harry is adding greatly to his
notebook,
> as are many others of us, if this is the case. By comparing
notes,
> at least we may be able to dwindle down to what might work best.
>
> I kind of gathered you were a lot more heavily into saltwater
> aquariums. This is starting to come in handy here. By "culture
> containers" (styro's), I presume you mean for use in raising live
> foods(?). We can probably rule those environments out for hydra,
but
> you never know !!! (LOL). That airborn possibility is scary if
true,
> but that would explain a lot of weird spreading of this pest
where
> ordinarily there would be no opportunity for it to spread, not
that I
> want to jump to conclusions. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Ray, I got Panacur from my vet, Its a powder. I dont know what
> strenght it is but I use 1/16 teaspone for 50 gal.s. It maybe
equal
> to a half dose of Fenbendazole !
> > In saltwater aquariums they are almost always present,
sometimes
> more in some cases than others. I believe that some fish eat them
is
> way they are not as many in some tanks, wrasse's for example eat
them.
> > I hatch my brine shrimp in a salinity of 1.027+
> > I keep fish only tanks at 1.017 and reef tanks at 1.022-1.024.
I
> think the hydra is at home in saltwater and live and multiply . I
can
> see chains of them from time to time on the glass.
> > Yes I have a fish room with 335 gals of freshwater tanks and
1,335
> gal.s of saltwater aquariums, not including 6 fish styros that
use
> as culture containers. So yes maybe airborn.
> > I only found out about panacur last year, when I started
raising
> seahorses. Hydra was a problem, so I serched for a cure on the
net. I
> have had no problems with the ponys using it. After feeding, I
always
> syphon the bottom and change small amounts of water, with the
panacur
> already in it.
> >
> >
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:46 PM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> >
> >
> > Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
> being
> > killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> > saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with
> the
> > BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
> hatched
> > out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
> effect
> > on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more
> than
> > 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt
per
> > gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5%
solution
> of
> > salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
> salt
> > to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on
them.
> I
> > am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when
> feeding
> > BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> > environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
> as
> > its reputed to do.
> >
> > Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> > (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
> will
> > not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
> almost
> > lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> > strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
> (as
> > Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> > towards hydra.
> >
> > It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are
much
> > more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> > reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get
hydra
> in
> > such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
> other
> > tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> > airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
> other
> > explanation. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > They are amazing !
> > > How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
> > > I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they
> still
> > appear.
> > > I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into
> freshwater
> > bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and
bacteria
> when
> > feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other
> times.
> > > But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra
> excape
> > being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?
> > > This question has always been a un-answered question on alot
of
> > discussion groups.
> > > Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come
from
> BS
> > eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a
> > nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in
a
> > newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter,
> where
> > else could they come from, if not the food?
> > > Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted
> > critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small
fry.
> > This is my medication of choice. I use it
> > > in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano
> > anemones as well.
> > > Sissy Sathre
> > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> > >
> > >
> > > Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but
to
> > add
> > > to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when
> > feeding
> > > the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as
> Steve
> > > brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the
> > least
> > > even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
> > > eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in
> high
> > > salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in
Hydra
> > eggs
> > > with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-
> > exist.
> > >
> > > When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps
the
> > > possibility of this contamination might be with the use of
> > Russian
> > > harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even
this
> > > couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've
been
> > > using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San
Francisco
> > Bay
> > > Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I.,
> NBS,
> > > Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish
and
> > I've
> > > (luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading
> > that
> > > the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts,
as
> > Steve
> > > has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I
> would
> > > think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or
> > later by
> > > now, since I use these cysts every day.
> > >
> > > I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
> > > Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
> > > suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks
> too.
> > > But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part
> of
> > > their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched
BBS
> > is
> > > prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the
> Hydra
> > > population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to
your
> > > tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies,
> as
> > one
> > > of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed
> them
> > BBS
> > > regularly.
> > >
> > > You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat
Hydra,
> > but
> > > the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you
> said,
> > you
> > > wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of
fry;
> > you
> > > may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in
killing
> > off
> > > Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient -
copper
> > > sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The
electrocution
> > > method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure
all
> > are
> > > taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you
> > could
> > > hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not
personally
> > > familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can
> > apparently
> > > leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at
> > first I
> > > was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for
> fry,
> > and
> > > keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change
> > afterwards,
> > > as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into
> > solution, as
> > > has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication
are:
> > (1)
> > > heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10
> > minutes.
> > > (2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
> > > Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
> > > gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per
> > gallon.
> > > (7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
> > > gallon).
> > >
> > > Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be
> > risky,
> > > depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small
> fry
> > up
> > > to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of
> spreading
> > the
> > > Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry
> <harryfisherman@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal
> > experience ,
> > > hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
> > > >
> > > > My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra
> > everywhere, I
> > > am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot ,
> > consider
> > > hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with
my
> > fry.
> > > >
> > > > Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no
> > hydra.
> > > I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer
live
> > food.
> > > >
> > > > There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and
> hydra,
> > but
> > > how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your
comments.
> > > >
> > > > Harry
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> > > >
> > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone
> calls.
> > > Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18687 From: chris topher Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
i just checked my bottle of flourish, in the fridge,
and it says, in very very very small letters...

"refigeration recommended but not required"

have never put the other products in the fridge...

woody

--- agentscullyeyore@... wrote:

>
> thanks Steve that is some good insight... I checked
> all over my two bottles
> and no mention of any kind of care or
> refrigeration... Shannon
>
>
>
>
> If you go to the Seachem site
> (_http://www.seachem.htt_
> (http://www.seachem.com/) ) and click on
> Library/Support, they have a link to a form to ask a
> question, so you
> can inquire about the viability of the products.
> Mention that they have
> not been refrigerated, as it says on the bottle--I
> did not see anything
> in the product description about refrigeration-in
> the product descrip
> accurate answer. They also offer a toll-free number.
>
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18688 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Hi Hank, Glad to see my memory still serves me. I thought I had
learned that salt will take care of hydra and your confirmation of
this now bears that out. What I didn't know was the possibility of
there being two general types, each occupying a niche with one type
in freshwater and the other in saltwater. While I do have a small
collection of marine books and even a moderate collection of the
old "The Marine Aquarist" magazines from the '70's, my marine
knowledge is limited as that's not where my main interests lie. That
begins to make more sense now though, with salt being able to kill
off the freshwater varieties. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> HI Ray:
> More of my 2 cents worth.MOst hydra is introduced by way of
> live foods esp. daphnie.I usually get rid of it by using salt.How
> you get it?Air borne(possible)Also right through your tap
water.Ever
> fill up a vat of water and let it stand still for a couple of days
> there is usually quite a bit of sediment on the bottom you only
need
> a small peice of hydra (or spores)to get it going.There is
probably
> a salt water verson of hydra and the two cant transfer from one
> medium to the other at least in my opinion.
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
>
>
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18689 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
OK , lets see what we can find out. I will tank some well water and look for microbes in it for 14 days, to see if they are in the water. documented with pics.
I only use RO prepared water for marine and discus (soft water tanks) ,and for BS hatchery.So that rules out any microbes comming from the r/o water in these tanks.
I have hydra on hand to test with.
I will take a saltwater hydra and put him in freshwater and see what happens. I will documented with pics.
I will take a freshwater hydra (a client has some nice ones) and put them in saltwater. Cant get to them untill Wednesday. I will document with pics.
I just cant see how when feeding FW fish BBS we get Hydra, and when feeding SW fish BBS we get Hydra. ??? We hatch them in saltwater, so it makes sence that they live in saltwater, they are collected from extra salty water, except where runoffs fill the lake. In fact they dont exist in the ocean.
Maybe this experiment will at least clarify if these guys can go both ways. I Have this cool scope I can take pictures of micro critters with. I can do video as well , but dont know how to make it small enough to send. I could burn it to CD and send it to anyone that wants to see it. For now I will post the still pics on my web page in a series.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: hank voss
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
being
> killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with the
> BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
hatched
> out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
effect
> on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more than
> 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt per
> gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5% solution
of
> salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
salt
> to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on them.
I
> am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when feeding
> BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
as
> its reputed to do.
>
> Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
will
> not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
almost
> lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
(as
> Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> towards hydra.
>
> It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are much
> more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get hydra
in
> such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
other
> tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
other
> explanation. Ray
=============================
HI Ray:
More of my 2 cents worth.MOst hydra is introduced by way of
live foods esp. daphnie.I usually get rid of it by using salt.How
you get it?Air borne(possible)Also right through your tap water.Ever
fill up a vat of water and let it stand still for a couple of days
there is usually quite a bit of sediment on the bottom you only need
a small peice of hydra (or spores)to get it going.There is probably
a salt water verson of hydra and the two cant transfer from one
medium to the other at least in my opinion.
Regards Hank

> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18690 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras: salt concentrations
Just a self-correction here which I caught earlier this morning upon
sleeping on it. Not that it really matters very much, as no one's
concerned about these statistics, but as the concentration of salt (6
Tbs per gallon, or 18 tsps per gallon) used for hatching BBS is 6 1/2
times as strong as the minimum 2 3/4 tsps (0.3%) per gallon of salt
required to have an effect on hydra, this salt concentration comes
out to around 1.96% solution, not the "16.5% solution" I mentioned
previously. There is a "slight" difference. I noticed I was not
exactly overwhelmed with corrections from the members though (LOL).
It does show though that this salt concentration for hatching BBS far
exceeds that which is needed to kill freshwater hydra, making it
impossible for freshwater hydra to be hatching out with and being
introduced with BBS. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape being
> killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with the
> BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
hatched
> out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental effect
> on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more than
> 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt per
> gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5% solution
of
> salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
salt
> to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact salt does act on them.
> Ray
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone
calls.
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18691 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Ray,

It does appear there may be marine hydra as well as freshwater, but thus
far, I've not been able to tie it down to a definitive answer. I did a
bit of searching on Scirus, but have not come up with anything that is
worth noting for a definitive answer, but the water potability paper may
be something we could run with for a while. I'm sure there are some
interesting tidbits in there--like the reaction to chlorine in the
water, or chloramines.

I missed replying to Sissy about her spore theory, but it appears that
reproduction in hydra is an asexual process, much like an amoeba or a
paramecium, where the young are started as buds on the adult, grow and
split off. The other method is regeneration of parts of the hydra when
it is somehow split apart (hmmm, the Great Hydra Massacre, to the tune
of "Alice's Restaurant"--anyone wish to take a stab?). Spores do not
appear to be a part of the reproductive strategy of hydra.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 11:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras

Steve, While I realize that there are different species of hydra, of
varying sizes, I was not aware that there are two main environmental
groups of habitancy with one strictly freshwater and one strictly
marine. That sheds a whole different light on the picture and makes
me feel much better knowing there still is the possibility of
eradicating these freshwater pests with salt, as I had believed. My
marine knowledge is somewhat limited.

Concerning the incidental topic you came across on water potability,
I don't think I'd want to drink the water after hydra were teaming
through it -- YUCK! (LOL). Actually, I also realize how such tests
would go but had to throw some levity in here! Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> There are several species of hydra. It seems that there are
freshwater and others are saltwater. The freshwater hydra cannot live
in a marine environment. I would presume that the saltwater hydra
cannot live in freshwater, but I have not seen anything yet regarding
this, but, as I have mentioned my knowledge of things marine is
skimpy at best, and my library also reflects this. One may also need
to look at the scientific literature here.
>
> I was no table to find anything definitive in a quick web and
journal search, but did find some photos of several freshwater
species of hydra (http://www.nig.ac.jp/labs/OntoGen/home.html) and an
article on predation of bluegill larvae in a Canadian lake
(http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_42/issue_6/1416.pdf). An interesting
aside that I did not follow up on was the use of hydra to determine
potablility of water for humans.
>
> However, swinging back to the topic, if there are freshwater and
marine species, I would believe that water of the opposite type would
remove the hydra from consideration. Hydra are relatively simple
animals, and as such probably do not have the mechanisms that would
allow survival in a radically different environment for any length of
time.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 2:51 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
>
> Sissy, Your measure of 1/16 tsp for 50 gallons may be equivilent to
> my half-dose of Fluke-Tabs (Flubendazole), as widely recommended in
> the hobbyists circle to get rid of hydra. The recommended full
dose
> of Flubendazole for treat Flukes, etc., is one 500 mg tablet per 10
> gallons, so in milligrams a half-dose for 50 gallons would be 1250
> mg. Anyone out there good at converting milligrams to teaspoons?
It
> does sound about right though, as I try to visualize it.
>
> From what I'm reading of your reply, it appears that the salt
> recommendation for getting rid of hydra should be considered to be
> thrown out the window if the hydra will live in a marine
> environment. Well, I'm sure Harry is adding greatly to his
notebook,
> as are many others of us, if this is the case. By comparing notes,
> at least we may be able to dwindle down to what might work best.
>
> I kind of gathered you were a lot more heavily into saltwater
> aquariums. This is starting to come in handy here. By "culture
> containers" (styro's), I presume you mean for use in raising live
> foods(?). We can probably rule those environments out for hydra,
but
> you never know !!! (LOL). That airborn possibility is scary if
true,
> but that would explain a lot of weird spreading of this pest where
> ordinarily there would be no opportunity for it to spread, not that
I
> want to jump to conclusions. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Ray, I got Panacur from my vet, Its a powder. I dont know what
> strenght it is but I use 1/16 teaspone for 50 gal.s. It maybe equal
> to a half dose of Fenbendazole !
> > In saltwater aquariums they are almost always present, sometimes
> more in some cases than others. I believe that some fish eat them
is
> way they are not as many in some tanks, wrasse's for example eat
them.
> > I hatch my brine shrimp in a salinity of 1.027+
> > I keep fish only tanks at 1.017 and reef tanks at 1.022-1.024. I
> think the hydra is at home in saltwater and live and multiply . I
can
> see chains of them from time to time on the glass.
> > Yes I have a fish room with 335 gals of freshwater tanks and
1,335
> gal.s of saltwater aquariums, not including 6 fish styros that use
> as culture containers. So yes maybe airborn.
> > I only found out about panacur last year, when I started raising
> seahorses. Hydra was a problem, so I serched for a cure on the net.
I
> have had no problems with the ponys using it. After feeding, I
always
> syphon the bottom and change small amounts of water, with the
panacur
> already in it.
> >
> >
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:46 PM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> >
> >
> > Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
> being
> > killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> > saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with
> the
> > BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
> hatched
> > out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
> effect
> > on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more
> than
> > 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt
per
> > gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5%
solution
> of
> > salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
> salt
> > to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on
them.
> I
> > am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when
> feeding
> > BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> > environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
> as
> > its reputed to do.
> >
> > Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> > (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
> will
> > not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
> almost
> > lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> > strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
> (as
> > Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> > towards hydra.
> >
> > It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are
much
> > more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> > reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get
hydra
> in
> > such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
> other
> > tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> > airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
> other
> > explanation. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > They are amazing !
> > > How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
> > > I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they
> still
> > appear.
> > > I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into
> freshwater
> > bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and
bacteria
> when
> > feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other
> times.
> > > But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra
> excape
> > being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?
> > > This question has always been a un-answered question on alot
of
> > discussion groups.
> > > Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come
from
> BS
> > eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a
> > nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in
a
> > newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter,
> where
> > else could they come from, if not the food?
> > > Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted
> > critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small
fry.
> > This is my medication of choice. I use it
> > > in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano
> > anemones as well.
> > > Sissy Sathre
> > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> > >
> > >
> > > Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but
to
> > add
> > > to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when
> > feeding
> > > the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as
> Steve
> > > brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the
> > least
> > > even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
> > > eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in
> high
> > > salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in
Hydra
> > eggs
> > > with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-
> > exist.
> > >
> > > When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps
the
> > > possibility of this contamination might be with the use of
> > Russian
> > > harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even
this
> > > couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've
been
> > > using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San
Francisco
> > Bay
> > > Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I.,
> NBS,
> > > Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish
and
> > I've
> > > (luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading
> > that
> > > the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts,
as
> > Steve
> > > has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I
> would
> > > think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or
> > later by
> > > now, since I use these cysts every day.
> > >
> > > I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
> > > Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
> > > suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks
> too.
> > > But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part
> of
> > > their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched
BBS
> > is
> > > prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the
> Hydra
> > > population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to
your
> > > tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies,
> as
> > one
> > > of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed
> them
> > BBS
> > > regularly.
> > >
> > > You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat
Hydra,
> > but
> > > the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you
> said,
> > you
> > > wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of
fry;
> > you
> > > may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in
killing
> > off
> > > Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient -
copper
> > > sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The
electrocution
> > > method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure
all
> > are
> > > taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you
> > could
> > > hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not
personally
> > > familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can
> > apparently
> > > leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at
> > first I
> > > was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for
> fry,
> > and
> > > keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change
> > afterwards,
> > > as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into
> > solution, as
> > > has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication
are:
> > (1)
> > > heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10
> > minutes.
> > > (2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
> > > Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
> > > gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per
> > gallon.
> > > (7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
> > > gallon).
> > >
> > > Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be
> > risky,
> > > depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small
> fry
> > up
> > > to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of
> spreading
> > the
> > > Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry
> <harryfisherman@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal
> > experience ,
> > > hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
> > > >
> > > > My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra
> > everywhere, I
> > > am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot ,
> > consider
> > > hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with
my
> > fry.
> > > >
> > > > Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no
> > hydra.
> > > I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer
live
> > food.
> > > >
> > > > There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and
> hydra,
> > but
> > > how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your
comments.
> > > >
> > > > Harry
> > > >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18692 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydras
Ray,

It does appear there may be marine hydra as well as freshwater, but thus
far, I've not been able to tie it down to a definitive answer. I did a
bit of searching on Scirus, but have not come up with anything that is
worth noting for a definitive answer, but the water potability paper may
be something we could run with for a while. I'm sure there are some
interesting tidbits in there--like the reaction to chlorine in the
water, or chloramines.

I missed replying to Sissy about her spore theory, but it appears that
reproduction in hydra is an asexual process, much like an amoeba or a
paramecium, where the young are started as buds on the adult, grow and
split off. The other method is regeneration of parts of the hydra when
it is somehow split apart (hmmm, the Great Hydra Massacre, to the tune
of "Alice's Restaurant"--anyone wish to take a stab?). Spores do not
appear to be a part of the reproductive strategy of hydra.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 11:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras

Steve, While I realize that there are different species of hydra, of
varying sizes, I was not aware that there are two main environmental
groups of habitancy with one strictly freshwater and one strictly
marine. That sheds a whole different light on the picture and makes
me feel much better knowing there still is the possibility of
eradicating these freshwater pests with salt, as I had believed. My
marine knowledge is somewhat limited.

Concerning the incidental topic you came across on water potability,
I don't think I'd want to drink the water after hydra were teaming
through it -- YUCK! (LOL). Actually, I also realize how such tests
would go but had to throw some levity in here! Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> There are several species of hydra. It seems that there are
freshwater and others are saltwater. The freshwater hydra cannot live
in a marine environment. I would presume that the saltwater hydra
cannot live in freshwater, but I have not seen anything yet regarding
this, but, as I have mentioned my knowledge of things marine is
skimpy at best, and my library also reflects this. One may also need
to look at the scientific literature here.
>
> I was no table to find anything definitive in a quick web and
journal search, but did find some photos of several freshwater
species of hydra (http://www.nig.ac.jp/labs/OntoGen/home.html) and an
article on predation of bluegill larvae in a Canadian lake
(http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_42/issue_6/1416.pdf). An interesting
aside that I did not follow up on was the use of hydra to determine
potablility of water for humans.
>
> However, swinging back to the topic, if there are freshwater and
marine species, I would believe that water of the opposite type would
remove the hydra from consideration. Hydra are relatively simple
animals, and as such probably do not have the mechanisms that would
allow survival in a radically different environment for any length of
time.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 2:51 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
>
> Sissy, Your measure of 1/16 tsp for 50 gallons may be equivilent to
> my half-dose of Fluke-Tabs (Flubendazole), as widely recommended in
> the hobbyists circle to get rid of hydra. The recommended full
dose
> of Flubendazole for treat Flukes, etc., is one 500 mg tablet per 10
> gallons, so in milligrams a half-dose for 50 gallons would be 1250
> mg. Anyone out there good at converting milligrams to teaspoons?
It
> does sound about right though, as I try to visualize it.
>
> From what I'm reading of your reply, it appears that the salt
> recommendation for getting rid of hydra should be considered to be
> thrown out the window if the hydra will live in a marine
> environment. Well, I'm sure Harry is adding greatly to his
notebook,
> as are many others of us, if this is the case. By comparing notes,
> at least we may be able to dwindle down to what might work best.
>
> I kind of gathered you were a lot more heavily into saltwater
> aquariums. This is starting to come in handy here. By "culture
> containers" (styro's), I presume you mean for use in raising live
> foods(?). We can probably rule those environments out for hydra,
but
> you never know !!! (LOL). That airborn possibility is scary if
true,
> but that would explain a lot of weird spreading of this pest where
> ordinarily there would be no opportunity for it to spread, not that
I
> want to jump to conclusions. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Ray, I got Panacur from my vet, Its a powder. I dont know what
> strenght it is but I use 1/16 teaspone for 50 gal.s. It maybe equal
> to a half dose of Fenbendazole !
> > In saltwater aquariums they are almost always present, sometimes
> more in some cases than others. I believe that some fish eat them
is
> way they are not as many in some tanks, wrasse's for example eat
them.
> > I hatch my brine shrimp in a salinity of 1.027+
> > I keep fish only tanks at 1.017 and reef tanks at 1.022-1.024. I
> think the hydra is at home in saltwater and live and multiply . I
can
> see chains of them from time to time on the glass.
> > Yes I have a fish room with 335 gals of freshwater tanks and
1,335
> gal.s of saltwater aquariums, not including 6 fish styros that use
> as culture containers. So yes maybe airborn.
> > I only found out about panacur last year, when I started raising
> seahorses. Hydra was a problem, so I serched for a cure on the net.
I
> have had no problems with the ponys using it. After feeding, I
always
> syphon the bottom and change small amounts of water, with the
panacur
> already in it.
> >
> >
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 10:46 PM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> >
> >
> > Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
> being
> > killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> > saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with
> the
> > BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
> hatched
> > out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
> effect
> > on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more
> than
> > 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt
per
> > gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5%
solution
> of
> > salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
> salt
> > to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on
them.
> I
> > am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when
> feeding
> > BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> > environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
> as
> > its reputed to do.
> >
> > Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> > (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
> will
> > not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
> almost
> > lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> > strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
> (as
> > Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> > towards hydra.
> >
> > It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are
much
> > more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> > reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get
hydra
> in
> > such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
> other
> > tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> > airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
> other
> > explanation. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > They are amazing !
> > > How do they appear in our fry tanks when feeding live foods?
> > > I decapsulating the cysts, and this seems to help, but they
> still
> > appear.
> > > I collect the brine from the hatchery, transfer it into
> freshwater
> > bath for 1-2 minutes, to rid it hopefully the hydra and
bacteria
> when
> > feeding to marine fish. Still get hydra sometimes and not other
> times.
> > > But when feeding to freshwater, how on earth do the hydra
> excape
> > being killed when trasfered into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?
> > > This question has always been a un-answered question on alot
of
> > discussion groups.
> > > Carol from the seahorse group swears that hydra dont come
from
> BS
> > eggs. I don't know where they come from, just know they are a
> > nuisance. I know you can get them from rocks and plants. But in
a
> > newly set up sterile nursery with nothing but a sponge filter,
> where
> > else could they come from, if not the food?
> > > Panacure is a horse wormer, that works well on many unwanted
> > critters. It does not affect the bacteria bed, or harm small
fry.
> > This is my medication of choice. I use it
> > > in marine aquariums to kill Brisle worms, aptisa, and mojano
> > anemones as well.
> > > Sissy Sathre
> > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Raymond Wetzel
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:42 AM
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras
> > >
> > >
> > > Harry, Not to repeat what has already been said on this but
to
> > add
> > > to it, the theory of a connection between bbs and hydra, when
> > feeding
> > > the newly hatched brine shrimp to your fry, seems to me (as
> Steve
> > > brought out and you too suspected) to be unfounded to say the
> > least
> > > even though these "reports" keep resurfacing. One method of
> > > eradicating Hydra is to use salt. Since Brine Shrimp live in
> high
> > > salinity water, I can't see how its possible to bring in
Hydra
> > eggs
> > > with Brine Shrimp cysts as it would seem as if they cannot co-
> > exist.
> > >
> > > When I first heard of this "connection," I thought perhaps
the
> > > possibility of this contamination might be with the use of
> > Russian
> > > harvested BBS cysts, but shortly afterwards realized even
this
> > > couldn't be possible for reasons I've outlined above. I've
been
> > > using BBS cysts, both San Francisco Bay estuary (San
Francisco
> > Bay
> > > Brand) and Utah/ Great Salt Lake (various brands -- O.S.I.,
> NBS,
> > > Brine Shrimp Direct, etc.) almost as long as I've had fish
and
> > I've
> > > (luckily) never had Hydra in my tanks. After just now reading
> > that
> > > the suspected connection is with Great Salt Lake BBS cysts,
as
> > Steve
> > > has just brought out, I fail to "seen the connection" as I
> would
> > > think if that were the case I would have had Hydra sooner or
> > later by
> > > now, since I use these cysts every day.
> > >
> > > I too feel that Hydra must be hitchhiking via other methods.
> > > Killiefish keepers tend to often report Hydra with the same
> > > suspicious connection; they will get it in their adult tanks
> too.
> > > But then, many feed newly hatched BBS to their adults as part
> of
> > > their breeders' diet. As already pointed out, newly hatched
BBS
> > is
> > > prime food for Hydra -- the more you feed, the greater the
> Hydra
> > > population, if you have somehow managed to introduce it to
your
> > > tanks. Again luckily, I've not had a problem with my Killies,
> as
> > one
> > > of the groups I keep, having Hydra in their tanks and I feed
> them
> > BBS
> > > regularly.
> > >
> > > You're probably aware that Pearl Gouramis will also eat
Hydra,
> > but
> > > the 3-Spot/Blue is probably the most reliable, but like you
> said,
> > you
> > > wouldn't want to put an adult gourami in with any kind of
fry;
> > you
> > > may have a point with Badis. As copper is effective in
killing
> > off
> > > Hydra (as Steve mentions), Aquarisol (main ingredient -
copper
> > > sulphate) is proven to kill them off as well. The
electrocution
> > > method should be sustained for from 3 to 6 hours to ensure
all
> > are
> > > taken care of; a current of only 6 volts is required, so you
> > could
> > > hook up several lantern batteries in series; I'm not
personally
> > > familiar with this method, but did google it -- you can
> > apparently
> > > leave the fish in the tank with risk of zapping them which at
> > first I
> > > was unsure of (I'd still be at least somewhat concerned for
> fry,
> > and
> > > keep an eye on them). Give the tank a good water change
> > afterwards,
> > > as there is the strong possibility of copper coming into
> > solution, as
> > > has been suspected. Other possible methods of eradication
are:
> > (1)
> > > heating the tank, with removal of the fish, to 106F for 10
> > minutes.
> > > (2) the use of 5 grains of Ammonium Nitrate per gallon. (3)
> > > Flubendazole. (4) Fenbendazole (Fluke-Tabs)-- 1/2 tab per 10
> > > gallons. (5) Clout. (6) One ounce 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per
> > gallon.
> > > (7) Salt -- 0.3% to 0.5% solution (2 3/4 tsp to 4 1/2 tsp per
> > > gallon).
> > >
> > > Allowing the fry to grow up with the Hydra in the tank may be
> > risky,
> > > depending on the size of the fry, as Hydra will attack small
> fry
> > up
> > > to a decent size. Then too, there's always the risk of
> spreading
> > the
> > > Hydra to the new tank when transferring the fry. Ray
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry
> <harryfisherman@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Over the years and over the groups, plus my personal
> > experience ,
> > > hydra appear when feeding BBS. Why?.
> > > >
> > > > My experience: gourami fry tank, exclusive bbs, hydra
> > everywhere, I
> > > am aware that adult gouramie, in particular the three spot ,
> > consider
> > > hydra to be a delicacy. I won't put an adult gourami in with
my
> > fry.
> > > >
> > > > Badis burmaensis, exclusive bbs from the same container, no
> > hydra.
> > > I suspect the badis is eating the hydra since they prefer
live
> > food.
> > > >
> > > > There seems to be a definite connection between bbs and
> hydra,
> > but
> > > how?. One is fresh water, one is salt. Thanks for your
comments.
> > > >
> > > > Harry
> > > >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18693 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
Document your steps as well. Fresh RO water checked for microbes, then
checked again after salt mixture added for marine portion, and checked
on a regular schedule.

I would suspect the freshwater hydra will do well in freshwater and
shrink and die in salt, with the opposite occurring for the marine
species.

There is also the question not raised, do hydra occur in brackish water?
If there is a population, is it marine, or fresh or its own species? I
would suspect that with freshwater hydra and marine hydra, there very
well should be a brackish hydra as well.

I don't think we need movies, unless you can get one eating fry <g>.
Still photos should be enough. I've got plenty of space to post full
sized photos, if you would rather avoid the libraries here and their
size limitations.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 12:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Experiment



OK , lets see what we can find out. I will tank some well water and look
for microbes in it for 14 days, to see if they are in the water.
documented with pics.
I only use RO prepared water for marine and discus (soft water tanks)
,and for BS hatchery.So that rules out any microbes comming from the r/o
water in these tanks.
I have hydra on hand to test with.
I will take a saltwater hydra and put him in freshwater and see what
happens. I will documented with pics.
I will take a freshwater hydra (a client has some nice ones) and put
them in saltwater. Cant get to them untill Wednesday. I will document
with pics.
I just cant see how when feeding FW fish BBS we get Hydra, and when
feeding SW fish BBS we get Hydra. ??? We hatch them in saltwater, so it
makes sence that they live in saltwater, they are collected from extra
salty water, except where runoffs fill the lake. In fact they dont exist
in the ocean.
Maybe this experiment will at least clarify if these guys can go both
ways. I Have this cool scope I can take pictures of micro critters with.
I can do video as well , but dont know how to make it small enough to
send. I could burn it to CD and send it to anyone that wants to see it.
For now I will post the still pics on my web page in a series.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: hank voss
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bbs and hydras


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Sissy, Your question . . . "how on earth do the hydra escape
being
> killed when transferred into Freshwater being born in
> saltwater?" . . . assumes that they are born (or hatched) with the
> BBS in the BBS hatcher. I don't really believe that they are
hatched
> out in the BBS hatcher. Salt supposed to have a detrimental
effect
> on hydra in concentrations as low as 0.3% or at least no more than
> 0.5%. On average, Utah BBS eggs hatch nicely at 6 Tbs of salt per
> gallon which, as I figure it, comes out to about a 16.5% solution
of
> salt (please do correct me if I'm wrong). That should be enough
salt
> to kill them 5 or 6 times over, if in fact slat does act on them.
I
> am curious however -- when, as you say, you get hydra when feeding
> BBS to your marine tanks, how long do the hydra live in that
> environment? That may tell whether or not salt does affect them
as
> its reputed to do.
>
> Yes, I did mention Panacure when I suggested using Fluke Tabs
> (Fenbendazole), the same thing. While I notice you're saying it
will
> not harm small fry, Deborah on here (who just posted to Steve)
almost
> lost a tankful of fair-sized angelfish fry using this at half-
> strength. I understand that this drug's "cousin", Flubendazole
(as
> Flubenole-5%) is much milder towards fry and equally effective
> towards hydra.
>
> It remains a puzzle as to where they come from, but they are much
> more than a nuisance -- they are like a nightmare. As to your
> reference of "a newly set up sterile nursery," when you get hydra
in
> such a set up, which I assume you have, did you also have any
other
> tanks containing hydra? I am beginning to suspect they may be
> airborn (or have spores?), only as there doesn't seem to be any
other
> explanation. Ray
=============================
HI Ray:
More of my 2 cents worth.MOst hydra is introduced by way of
live foods esp. daphnie.I usually get rid of it by using salt.How
you get it?Air borne(possible)Also right through your tap water.Ever
fill up a vat of water and let it stand still for a couple of days
there is usually quite a bit of sediment on the bottom you only need
a small peice of hydra (or spores)to get it going.There is probably
a salt water verson of hydra and the two cant transfer from one
medium to the other at least in my opinion.
Regards Hank

> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18694 From: hank voss Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Experiment
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Document your steps as well. Fresh RO water checked for microbes,
then
> checked again after salt mixture added for marine portion, and
checked
> on a regular schedule.
>
> I would suspect the freshwater hydra will do well in freshwater and
> shrink and die in salt, with the opposite occurring for the marine
> species.
>
> There is also the question not raised, do hydra occur in brackish
water?
> If there is a population, is it marine, or fresh or its own
species? I
> would suspect that with freshwater hydra and marine hydra, there
very
> well should be a brackish hydra as well.
>
> I don't think we need movies, unless you can get one eating fry
<g>.
> Still photos should be enough. I've got plenty of space to post
full
> sized photos, if you would rather avoid the libraries here and
their
> size limitations.
========================

Anyone:
Has anybody ever found hydra in their bbs hatcher?Ive hatched
bbs since 46 both the airless method(tray method)and the air stone
way and have never ever seen any hydra in my hatching vessels so why
would they just appear in the tank and not in the hatching vessel?
Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18695 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
hey woody where it is located maybe I am missing it on my bottles I did
check but it is entirely possible that I could have missed it.. Shannon




I just checked my bottle of flourish, in the fridge,
and it says, in very very very small letters...

"refigeration recommended but not required"

have never put the other products in the fridge...

woody








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18696 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
oh no I am sure you are right and I think you might have taken what I said
wrong just cause mine doesn't say that doesn't mean yours doesn't too.. like I
said I got mine prolly 2 to 3 years ago so maybe since then they have added
that to the bottle.. or maybe different manufacturer have added it... im sure
there are a lot of reasons I was merely saying that mine didn't say that and
why I was surprised to hear it... Shannon




Greetings,

I just went and got my bottle out of the refrigerator, seachem flourish, and
it does say, refrigeration recommeneded after opening, but not required,
that is where I got that from and I just purchased this bottle from fosters and
smith. Now if you think I am wrong, I shall shut my mouth..

Thanks,








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18697 From: harry perry Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: bbs and hydra/some research/ to all
I have mixed emotions about this thread. On the one hand I'm glad I started it because of what I've learned, on the other, you great folks are taking so much time away from your personal lives to deal with a common tank pest.I feel bad.

Anyhow I found this, "Hydra only seems to appear in fry tanks being fed brine shrimp nauplii or similar live foods. They don't seem to appear in fry tanks that are fed primarily a dry or liquid diet. However, once you start feeding large amounts of brine shrimp nauplii, it isn't long before hydra appear, often in enormous numbers. They are usually tan or brown in colour and are not readily seen against a background of natural coloured gravel or on plants. Usually you don't notice them unless a heavy infestation has become established." It is a part of this,
http://members.optushome.com.au/chelmon/hydra.htm A good article, I think

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18698 From: habskahuna Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
I have Flourish regular, Excel, and Iron...only the regular says
"refrigeration recommended but not required" (in the "directions for
use")section...

Carmen


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
>
> hey woody where it is located maybe I am missing it on my bottles I
did
> check but it is entirely possible that I could have missed it.. Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18699 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
oh maybe some how that is the difference I have the excel too and I just
checked again and no refrigeration warning.. Shannon:




I have Flourish regular, Excel, and Iron...only the regular says
"refrigeration recommended but not required" (in the "directions for
use")section.us

Carmen








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18700 From: hank voss Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydra/some research/ to all
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> I have mixed emotions about this thread. On the one hand I'm glad
I started it because of what I've learned, on the other, you great
folks are taking so much time away from your personal lives to deal
with a common tank pest.I feel bad.
>
> Anyhow I found this, "Hydra only seems to appear in fry tanks
being fed brine shrimp nauplii or similar live foods. They don't
seem to appear in fry tanks that are fed primarily a dry or liquid
diet. However, once you start feeding large amounts of brine shrimp
nauplii, it isn't long before hydra appear, often in enormous
numbers. They are usually tan or brown in colour and are not readily
seen against a background of natural coloured gravel or on plants.
Usually you don't notice them unless a heavy infestation has become
established." It is a part of this,
> http://members.optushome.com.au/chelmon/hydra.htm A good article,
I think
>
> Harry
===========================
>
Harry:
I can tell you from first hand experence that if you have
hydra and are feeding "green water" the hydra turn green from eating
it.This is before starting bbs. Where did the hydra come from?I wish
i knew.
Regards Hank







> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo!
Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18701 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydra/some research/ to all
The author of the hydra piece you cite seems to contradict himself. In
the paragraph prior to his assertion that you quote, he says:
"Hydra can be introduced to the aquarium with live foods, snails,
driftwood, plants, or water collected from natural freshwater areas.
Most hydra in a normal aquarium go unnoticed, but within the confines of
a small fry-raising tank, these little pests can be deadly, and can
ingest a tankful of newly hatched rainbowfish larvae in less than a
week."

He also says, later on:
"Finding a few hydras in your regular aquarium doesn't mean that the
aquarium is unhealthy. Actually, it means you have a normal healthy
aquarium, since hydra will not live in water of poor quality. A
well-maintained aquarium will not provide enough food for a large number
of hydras so keep the tank clean and you will probably never know that
they are there."

My guess is that hydra do not eat food that is not live. It probably
does dot trigger their feeding mechanism properly. This would explain
why they would be plentiful in a tank being feed small live foods (bbs,
infusoria, green water, etc.) and not really seen in tanks that are
being fed other foods, though, by this author's statements, they are
probably still present in small numbers.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 3:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] bbs and hydra/some research/ to all

I have mixed emotions about this thread. On the one hand I'm glad I
started it because of what I've learned, on the other, you great folks
are taking so much time away from your personal lives to deal with a
common tank pest.I feel bad.

Anyhow I found this, "Hydra only seems to appear in fry tanks being fed
brine shrimp nauplii or similar live foods. They don't seem to appear in
fry tanks that are fed primarily a dry or liquid diet. However, once you
start feeding large amounts of brine shrimp nauplii, it isn't long
before hydra appear, often in enormous numbers. They are usually tan or
brown in colour and are not readily seen against a background of natural
coloured gravel or on plants. Usually you don't notice them unless a
heavy infestation has become established." It is a part of this,
http://members.optushome.com.au/chelmon/hydra.htm A good article, I
think

Harry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18702 From: harry perry Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: bbs and hydra/some research/ to all/My theory
The hydra were in the tank all the time. From what I have read here and online there are definately several forms of hydra. Some can only live in salt water and some in fresh.

The reason I origionally started this thread is I didn't add anything to my tank except bbs. So I felt there was some connection.

Contradictions or not in the piece I posted the important thing is to get at the bottom of this. Good folks are wasting way too much of their time trying to solve this.

I suspect we will find that hydra will allways be present in a healthy tank and that the presence of a food source like bbs. triggers fantastic growth. We'll see.

Harry

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: The author of the hydra piece you cite seems to contradict himself. In
the paragraph prior to his assertion that you quote, he says:
"Hydra can be introduced to the aquarium with live foods, snails,
driftwood, plants, or water collected from natural freshwater areas.
Most hydra in a normal aquarium go unnoticed, but within the confines of
a small fry-raising tank, these little pests can be deadly, and can
ingest a tankful of newly hatched rainbowfish larvae in less than a
week."

He also says, later on:
"Finding a few hydras in your regular aquarium doesn't mean that the
aquarium is unhealthy. Actually, it means you have a normal healthy
aquarium, since hydra will not live in water of poor quality. A
well-maintained aquarium will not provide enough food for a large number
of hydras so keep the tank clean and you will probably never know that
they are there."

My guess is that hydra do not eat food that is not live. It probably
does dot trigger their feeding mechanism properly. This would explain
why they would be plentiful in a tank being feed small live foods (bbs,
infusoria, green water, etc.) and not really seen in tanks that are
being fed other foods, though, by this author's statements, they are
probably still present in small numbers.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 3:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] bbs and hydra/some research/ to all

I have mixed emotions about this thread. On the one hand I'm glad I
started it because of what I've learned, on the other, you great folks
are taking so much time away from your personal lives to deal with a
common tank pest.I feel bad.

Anyhow I found this, "Hydra only seems to appear in fry tanks being fed
brine shrimp nauplii or similar live foods. They don't seem to appear in
fry tanks that are fed primarily a dry or liquid diet. However, once you
start feeding large amounts of brine shrimp nauplii, it isn't long
before hydra appear, often in enormous numbers. They are usually tan or
brown in colour and are not readily seen against a background of natural
coloured gravel or on plants. Usually you don't notice them unless a
heavy infestation has become established." It is a part of this,
http://members.optushome.com.au/chelmon/hydra.htm A good article, I
think

Harry






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18703 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
He has been swimming in a vertical position all around the tank. Swimming
until he is just about to the surface. he now has wedged himself between the
stalks of my sword plant and just staying there. What do I do?
Perimeters are all normal. Temp is normal. He is not hungry. Whats the deal?
Anyone know? I love my little guy.

Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18704 From: Andreas Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
that does not sound like abnormal GK behavior

they like to lay in the bottom or wedge themselves into plants and such.
mine hangs by the filtert down tube a lot. they like beeing in close ocver
it makes them feel safe.

is his skin looking ok? nice color of black? no bits of slime coat comiong
off?

they prefer soft water and lower PH

andreas


On 9/10/06, Morganawolf1@... <Morganawolf1@...> wrote:
>
> He has been swimming in a vertical position all around the tank.
> Swimming
> until he is just about to the surface. he now has wedged himself between
> the
> stalks of my sword plant and just staying there. What do I do?
> Perimeters are all normal. Temp is normal. He is not hungry. Whats the
> deal?
> Anyone know? I love my little guy.
>
> Karen
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18705 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
There are no visible signs of infection. Though his swimming behavior is
odd. I thought of maybe "swim bladder disease, " but I just don't know. You
mentioned that they like to "hang in a plant" well, he is wedging himself in my
sword plant(which leaves are at the surface) with his tail down and his head
up.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18706 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
I had a ghost knife fish as one time and they do that. He probably is not sick, they swin allot differently than say guppies or angelfish. Just keep a eye on him but I do not think it is anything to worry about. They can move backward and forward and up and down and will often hide in plants etc. He may be looking for a hiding place and it is a good idea to put a ghost house in the tank for him to go in.

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/


----- Original Message -----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying


There are no visible signs of infection. Though his swimming behavior is
odd. I thought of maybe "swim bladder disease, " but I just don't know. You
mentioned that they like to "hang in a plant" well, he is wedging himself in my
sword plant(which leaves are at the surface) with his tail down and his head
up.

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18707 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Goldfish symptoms
My fan tailed gold fish grew to three-times the size of the other gold fish
in the tank. It became the bully fish discouraging the others from eating,
in fact. The tank was really foul smelling and we decided to change the
water. Both gold fish did fine with the change but the big one began exuding
long, large trails of fecal material. When I lifted those out I noticed they
were filled with blood. The fish was not just large but had what some my call
a beer belly. I began wondering if he/she might have tumor or something.

I must add that there is nothing more we can do about the bully fish. We
decided to save our tank and the other fish therein and took him down to the
pond in the golf course outside our back door. Considering his tenacity I
wouldn't be surprised that he will make it and grow and grow and grow. I felt
awful doing that, but it was that or watch the other gold fish die from
starvation, plus the 5 gallon tank was getting so filthy from the bully fish.

Any comments would be appreciated.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18708 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
Try removing anything that is electrical and in or near the water of
your tank. This would include your heater, filter, lighting, etc. If the
fish starts to act normally, you have a problem with one of these units
placing an electrical charge in the water. You may not notice a change
immediately, but over several hours. If this does happen, start placing
items back one at a time until the behavior starts to regress to the
current state. The last placed item would be the culprit--remove and
replace the item at your earliest convenience.

If you notice no improvement, then isolate the fish, in a separate tank,
giving him plenty of hiding places, but not hidden well enough you
cannot keep your eye on him. Introduce live foods of a size he can eat
and see if he will eat.

(You did not include your water parameters.)

Knife fish generate a weak electrical field. If there is an electrical
leak in your aquarium, it can affect all fish that do this, and this is
one thing we are trying to rule out.

You do not say how long you have had this fish and whether this is a new
observed behavior. If this is a newish fish, he may just be trying to
find his place in the hierarchy of the tank, and looking for a place to
call "home" where he can feel safe from others.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 7:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying

He has been swimming in a vertical position all around the tank.
Swimming
until he is just about to the surface. he now has wedged himself between
the
stalks of my sword plant and just staying there. What do I do?
Perimeters are all normal. Temp is normal. He is not hungry. Whats the
deal?
Anyone know? I love my little guy.

Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18709 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying
I should have added that they are nocturnal feeders. It is not likely
you will see them eating in daylight (or lighted aquaria).


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 8:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying

Try removing anything that is electrical and in or near the water of
your tank. This would include your heater, filter, lighting, etc. If the
fish starts to act normally, you have a problem with one of these units
placing an electrical charge in the water. You may not notice a change
immediately, but over several hours. If this does happen, start placing
items back one at a time until the behavior starts to regress to the
current state. The last placed item would be the culprit--remove and
replace the item at your earliest convenience.

If you notice no improvement, then isolate the fish, in a separate tank,
giving him plenty of hiding places, but not hidden well enough you
cannot keep your eye on him. Introduce live foods of a size he can eat
and see if he will eat.

(You did not include your water parameters.)

Knife fish generate a weak electrical field. If there is an electrical
leak in your aquarium, it can affect all fish that do this, and this is
one thing we are trying to rule out.

You do not say how long you have had this fish and whether this is a new
observed behavior. If this is a newish fish, he may just be trying to
find his place in the hierarchy of the tank, and looking for a place to
call "home" where he can feel safe from others.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 7:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I think my Ghost Knife Fish is dying

He has been swimming in a vertical position all around the tank.
Swimming
until he is just about to the surface. he now has wedged himself between
the
stalks of my sword plant and just staying there. What do I do?
Perimeters are all normal. Temp is normal. He is not hungry. Whats the
deal?
Anyone know? I love my little guy.

Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18710 From: chris topher Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
lol...

despite the recent spate of "possibly offended" posts
flashing back and forth...no biggie...

was just curious and wondered why i thought it
necessary...

woody



--- agentscullyeyore@... wrote:

>
> oh no I am sure you are right and I think you might
> have taken what I said
> wrong just cause mine doesn't say that doesn't mean
> yours doesn't too.. like I
> said I got mine prolly 2 to 3 years ago so maybe
> since then they have added
> that to the bottle.. or maybe different
> manufacturer have added it... im sure
> there are a lot of reasons I was merely saying that
> mine didn't say that and
> why I was surprised to hear it... Shannon
>
>
>
>
> Greetings,
>
> I just went and got my bottle out of the
> refrigerator, seachem flourish, and
> it does say, refrigeration recommeneded after
> opening, but not required,
> that is where I got that from and I just purchased
> this bottle from fosters and
> smith. Now if you think I am wrong, I shall shut my
> mouth..
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18711 From: chris topher Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
on my bottle it is the last line of "DIRECTIONS"

i've got great eyes but need reading glasses for that
bottle...

woody

--- agentscullyeyore@... wrote:

>
> hey woody where it is located maybe I am missing it
> on my bottles I did
> check but it is entirely possible that I could have
> missed it.. Shannon
>
>
>
>
> I just checked my bottle of flourish, in the fridge,
> and it says, in very very very small letters...
>
> "refigeration recommended but not required"
>
> have never put the other products in the fridge...
>
> woody
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18712 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish symptoms
One adult goldfish requires about 30 gallons of water. Goldfish are
notorious for being "dirty" fish, that is they produce a lot of waste,
both solid as fecal matter, and otherwise as in the release of
nitrogenous products and CO2. I'd not attempt to keep any but the
smallest in a 5 gallon tank, and at that, I'd be changing water quite
frequently.

First thing I would do for your two remaining fish is to get them a new
home, perhaps a 55 gallon tank that they both can "grow into" so to
speak. Once you have the tank setup and cycled, and the fish added, do
25% water changes each week religiously. This will keep them in good
health, and the nitrates in line. Since goldfish are vegetarians, plants
do not do well in a goldfish tank, you need to keep the nitrates in line
with water changes.

Feed no more than they can eat in a couple of minutes, and make sure it
has a high vegetable content. Also, use a substrate of gravel that they
can sift through, no marbles or river rock.

No heater is necessary. Room temperature should be fine, unless it is a
hot room. Goldfish do best at a temperature in the upper 60's.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@...
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 8:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Goldfish symptoms

My fan tailed gold fish grew to three-times the size of the other gold
fish
in the tank. It became the bully fish discouraging the others from
eating,
in fact. The tank was really foul smelling and we decided to change
the
water. Both gold fish did fine with the change but the big one began
exuding
long, large trails of fecal material. When I lifted those out I
noticed they
were filled with blood. The fish was not just large but had what some
my call
a beer belly. I began wondering if he/she might have tumor or
something.

I must add that there is nothing more we can do about the bully fish.
We
decided to save our tank and the other fish therein and took him down to
the
pond in the golf course outside our back door. Considering his tenacity
I
wouldn't be surprised that he will make it and grow and grow and grow.
I felt
awful doing that, but it was that or watch the other gold fish die from

starvation, plus the 5 gallon tank was getting so filthy from the bully
fish.

Any comments would be appreciated.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18713 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish symptoms
One adult goldfish requires about 30 gallons of water. Goldfish are
notorious for being "dirty" fish, that is they produce a lot of waste,
both solid as fecal matter, and otherwise as in the release of
nitrogenous products and CO2. I'd not attempt to keep any but the
smallest in a 5 gallon tank, and at that, I'd be changing water quite
frequently.

First thing I would do for your two remaining fish is to get them a new
home, perhaps a 55 gallon tank that they both can "grow into" so to
speak. Once you have the tank setup and cycled, and the fish added, do
25% water changes each week religiously. This will keep them in good
health, and the nitrates in line. Since goldfish are vegetarians, plants
do not do well in a goldfish tank, you need to keep the nitrates in line
with water changes.

Feed no more than they can eat in a couple of minutes, and make sure it
has a high vegetable content. Also, use a substrate of gravel that they
can sift through, no marbles or river rock.

No heater is necessary. Room temperature should be fine, unless it is a
hot room. Goldfish do best at a temperature in the upper 60's.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@...
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 8:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Goldfish symptoms

My fan tailed gold fish grew to three-times the size of the other gold
fish
in the tank. It became the bully fish discouraging the others from
eating,
in fact. The tank was really foul smelling and we decided to change
the
water. Both gold fish did fine with the change but the big one began
exuding
long, large trails of fecal material. When I lifted those out I
noticed they
were filled with blood. The fish was not just large but had what some
my call
a beer belly. I began wondering if he/she might have tumor or
something.

I must add that there is nothing more we can do about the bully fish.
We
decided to save our tank and the other fish therein and took him down to
the
pond in the golf course outside our back door. Considering his tenacity
I
wouldn't be surprised that he will make it and grow and grow and grow.
I felt
awful doing that, but it was that or watch the other gold fish die from

starvation, plus the 5 gallon tank was getting so filthy from the bully
fish.

Any comments would be appreciated.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18714 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
oh I know this group is infamous for ppl being so damn bitchy I don't get
it.. that is why I remember now stepping away for a while.. but you will find no
bitchiness here even though I am a hormonal woman LOL.. I will be honest
direct and to the point and if I fuck up im the first after al I didn't but im
glad now I know when I get my new product, warning or not I am going to
refrigerate it.. Shannon





lol...

despite the recent spate of "possibly offended" posts
flashing back and forth...no biggie...

was just curious and wondered why i thought it
necessary...

woody








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18715 From: fishing_reich Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: New Member Intro
Hello

I've had various freshwater tropical tanks off and on since the age of
seven. I recently got back into the hobby with a 30 gallon tank. I'm
3 months in and I have a red tail shark, 3 serpae tetras, two neon
tetras and a Chinese algae eater. The tank has a few live plants, the
only one I'm sure of is an amazon sword that is about 6 inches(15cm) tall.

Glad to be an board,

Mark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18716 From: chris topher Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: experation on seachem products
: )

for some odd reason i am much more polite in groups
than i am in person...

woody

--- agentscullyeyore@... wrote:

>
> oh I know this group is infamous for ppl being so
> damn bitchy I don't get
> it.. that is why I remember now stepping away for a
> while.. but you will find no
> bitchiness here even though I am a hormonal woman
> LOL.. I will be honest
> direct and to the point and if I fuck up im the
> first after al I didn't but im
> glad now I know when I get my new product, warning
> or not I am going to
> refrigerate it.. Shannon
>
>
>
>
>
> lol...
>
> despite the recent spate of "possibly offended"
> posts
> flashing back and forth...no biggie...
>
> was just curious and wondered why i thought it
> necessary...
>
> woody
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18717 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/10/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish symptoms
I feel somehow this is Deja Vu! Wasn't this exact same message
(#18636) posted yesterday under the topic of "Bloody Stools" by the
self-named "Executioner?" Since the affected fish has long been
released into the wild, and replies have been posted, isn't this
message rather redunant at this point? What is the purpose of asking
for more comments?

Since comments are still being welcomed and appreciated (at least up
until now), I'd like to add a few myself here. First, I think it was
irresponsible to release such a diseased fish into the wild where
other fish could possibly contract this disease. While I do notice
that it was release into a golf course pond, this does not preclude
the fact that such a pond could not be connected to a natural
watercourse that might empty into a natural lake. Such is the
situation a few miles from me where a small stream that feeds a golf
course pond also drains it and feeds a natural pond, which in turn
feeds a reservoir that serves as drinking (and aquarium filling)
water for a good portion of the county.

While I understand you did not want your other fish to be further
exposed to this disease, there were other alternatives such as
contacting a LFS to see if they would want the fish and would want to
treat it in the process. Since when you first buy a fish, you have
just made yourself responsible for the fish; your real duty was to
isolate it and treat it yourself even if it meant buying another
tank, instead of tossing the problem aside as soon as the going got
rough. As has been already brought out, if you did not want to go
through a possible treatment regimen yourself, you should then have
administered euthanasia -- especially so if there was no hope. These
comments may seem harsh but the owner makes him or herself
responsible for the fish when he or she decides to buy it, and
throwing it away into the environment without any thought of the
possible consequences is not the way to deal with not having to give
further consideration to the problem. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, NancyTroyer@... wrote:
>
> My fan tailed gold fish grew to three-times the size of the other
gold fish
> in the tank. It became the bully fish discouraging the others
from eating,
> in fact. The tank was really foul smelling and we decided to
change the
> water. Both gold fish did fine with the change but the big one
began exuding
> long, large trails of fecal material. When I lifted those out I
noticed they
> were filled with blood. The fish was not just large but had what
some my call
> a beer belly. I began wondering if he/she might have tumor or
something.
>
> I must add that there is nothing more we can do about the bully
fish. We
> decided to save our tank and the other fish therein and took him
down to the
> pond in the golf course outside our back door. Considering his
tenacity I
> wouldn't be surprised that he will make it and grow and grow and
grow. I felt
> awful doing that, but it was that or watch the other gold fish die
from
> starvation, plus the 5 gallon tank was getting so filthy from the
bully fish.
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18718 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish symptoms
Hello there,

I dont know how long you have been keeping Goldfish? I have only been keeping Goldfish for what two weeks now and I had three goldfish and one Pleco in a 10 gallon tank. After the first five days I was having trouble keeping the water clean and clear. I realized that the reson for the water cloudiness was because I just had to many fish in such a small tank. As of a week ago I lost one of my common goldfish and then I transferred the rest into a 55 gallon tank. My water problems have somewhat subsided and the fish are alot happier. The fish I now keep are two beautiful Black Moors, one handsome Sarassa Comet and one one inch long Pleco who seems to be getting bigger by the day?! I have nothing in the tank other than on plant which they are constantly eating and a good thing it is a hardy plant, and those little aquarium rocks for color on the floor. But as far as you letting your one bully fish go I dont see how that would solve your problems. Why not just get another
tank for him or her? I would definently get a bigger tank for your remaining fish not only for their happiness but also for their health! Goldfish get big and they get big pretty fast if given the proper care. Have you done any research on your type of fish? The very day I got mine I researched them about as much as I could via the Internet and sometimes I found myself reading the same information over and over again just to be sure that I was actually comprehending what I was reading. How is the Goldfish doing that you have released into the wild?


http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/







---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18719 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish symptoms
Good morning Ray,

I concure with what you said, and I am not really sure if this post is from someone who is knew to this fishkeeping trade? I in fact strongly agree with your sediments on just getting rid of the problem instead of working on a solution to fix the problem. I am one of those people who falls in love within a few hours and sometimes instantly with an animal no matter how aggressive or docile a creature is. I also do not agree with just a quick fix of a problem and that would be throwing the creature out to fend for itself. I am a little bothered by this action due to the fact that a Goldfish is not a wild animal, nor was it caught in wild and that creature does not know how to fend for itself. Ever since it was born it has depended on humans to feed it, and care for it and make sure that it was safe from all the elements that be. Ray I know where you are coming from and please I beg you go easy on them. You are not alone in your feelings but our whole mission here is not to
make an already bad situation worse.

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
I feel somehow this is Deja Vu! Wasn't this exact same message
(#18636) posted yesterday under the topic of "Bloody Stools" by the
self-named "Executioner?" Since the affected fish has long been
released into the wild, and replies have been posted, isn't this
message rather redunant at this point? What is the purpose of asking
for more comments?

Since comments are still being welcomed and appreciated (at least up
until now), I'd like to add a few myself here. First, I think it was
irresponsible to release such a diseased fish into the wild where
other fish could possibly contract this disease. While I do notice
that it was release into a golf course pond, this does not preclude
the fact that such a pond could not be connected to a natural
watercourse that might empty into a natural lake. Such is the
situation a few miles from me where a small stream that feeds a golf
course pond also drains it and feeds a natural pond, which in turn
feeds a reservoir that serves as drinking (and aquarium filling)
water for a good portion of the county.

While I understand you did not want your other fish to be further
exposed to this disease, there were other alternatives such as
contacting a LFS to see if they would want the fish and would want to
treat it in the process. Since when you first buy a fish, you have
just made yourself responsible for the fish; your real duty was to
isolate it and treat it yourself even if it meant buying another
tank, instead of tossing the problem aside as soon as the going got
rough. As has been already brought out, if you did not want to go
through a possible treatment regimen yourself, you should then have
administered euthanasia -- especially so if there was no hope. These
comments may seem harsh but the owner makes him or herself
responsible for the fish when he or she decides to buy it, and
throwing it away into the environment without any thought of the
possible consequences is not the way to deal with not having to give
further consideration to the problem. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, NancyTroyer@... wrote:
>
> My fan tailed gold fish grew to three-times the size of the other
gold fish
> in the tank. It became the bully fish discouraging the others
from eating,
> in fact. The tank was really foul smelling and we decided to
change the
> water. Both gold fish did fine with the change but the big one
began exuding
> long, large trails of fecal material. When I lifted those out I
noticed they
> were filled with blood. The fish was not just large but had what
some my call
> a beer belly. I began wondering if he/she might have tumor or
something.
>
> I must add that there is nothing more we can do about the bully
fish. We
> decided to save our tank and the other fish therein and took him
down to the
> pond in the golf course outside our back door. Considering his
tenacity I
> wouldn't be surprised that he will make it and grow and grow and
grow. I felt
> awful doing that, but it was that or watch the other gold fish die
from
> starvation, plus the 5 gallon tank was getting so filthy from the
bully fish.
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
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please visit and feel free to join!
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18720 From: Judy R Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
Good Morning Everyone,

I just wanted to let you know that the Rivulus Marmoratus has been reclassified. Their new name is Kryptoleb Marmoratus. My fiance and I have just acquired 2 of these unique species for our killifish collection. If you would like to read more about this species here is a site which includes the DNA test of individual fish and successive generations.

http://www.biol.vt.edu/faculty/turner/rivmar/default.html

It's really quite amazing!

Judy


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18721 From: rjtroon Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: What do silver dollars eat?
I purchased six large silver dollars that also wouldn't eat for quite
awhile. I had read that they were herbivores, so I bought some food
that was plant based. That didn't really help a lot at first either.
Eventually, I found out they LOVE frozen bloodworms. That got them
started. They also are crazy about shrimp pellets and even catfish
pellets. Algae wafers work great too. They will pick them off the
bottom and play keep away from each other while holding it in their
mouths. Good luck.

Chief



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I have 5 huge silver dollars that don't eat. I think they munched my
> live plants before I moved them but as far as I know, that's it.
> I've searched the net and can't find much other than they are plant
> eaters. I've crushed algae wafers, sunk zuchini which they ate a
> floating bits of but then mostly spit it out again.
> The don't act interested in anything I put in there.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18722 From: cody adams Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: please someone help me
hello my name is cody and i am 25 years old. I tried college after
highschool and i did not like it. So i joined the military for four
years. I have been out of the military and have an ok job now but i
know i do not want to be doing my job my whole life. I passions is
interacting with animals especially fish and other aquatic animals. So
i am going to go to school and i would like a job dealing with fish and
intereacting with them possibly raising them or any other aquatic jobs,
but at the same time i want to make good money from this and have it as
my main job, i want to be able to live off of this job and not
struggle, can anyone help me and point me in the right direction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18723 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
Hello Cody,

Try the following website for ideas and resources:
http://www.marinecareers.net/resources/pubs.htm

Good Luck.


--- cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote:

> hello my name is cody and i am 25 years old. I tried
> college after
> highschool and i did not like it. So i joined the
> military for four
> years. I have been out of the military and have an
> ok job now but i
> know i do not want to be doing my job my whole life.
> I passions is
> interacting with animals especially fish and other
> aquatic animals. So
> i am going to go to school and i would like a job
> dealing with fish and
> intereacting with them possibly raising them or any
> other aquatic jobs,
> but at the same time i want to make good money from
> this and have it as
> my main job, i want to be able to live off of this
> job and not
> struggle, can anyone help me and point me in the
> right direction
>
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18724 From: snerticus Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006
Sissy, the water may be cooler offshore, but inwards it's quite warm.
I used to go to Myrtle Beach yearly in the summers and the water was in
the low 80's typically.

However, I used to catch fish (yep, even when I was a little girl, I
would go with my parents to Myrtle Beach, but instead of hanging out at
the beach, I used to have a blast catching fish and taking them back to
Pennsylvania for my tanks. Among some of them where: pipefish, shrimp,
squid, a spadefish and a porcupine fish, and of course, the ever
present hermit crabs.

The eddies that form in Florida waters travel up the coast and may
contain tropical fish and other hitchhikers. Sometimes you may read an
article where seomeone in New York has found a "tropical" fish off the
coast. It's not unheard of. I learned this from an oceanography class
I took in college (I also took meteorology, ichthyology and geology,
but was an art major!) and they were all quite interesting. :)



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> Can you believe it! I been following this story for 5 years, just
more and more of them each year being reported. I'm surprised, with the
water being so cool in the carolinas.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18725 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
I generally use fishbase.org for names and _Kryptolebias marmoratus_ is
listed a new combination by Poey in 1880. It is not listed as a valid
name. I am assuming here that you did mean _Kryptolebias_ and not
_Kryptoleb_. The reference used to determine the validity of the name
was Costa, W.J.E.M., 2003. Rivulidae (South American Annual Fishes).. p.
526-548. In: R.E. Reis, S.O. Kullander and C.J. Ferraris, Jr. (eds.)
Checklist of the Freshwater Fishes of South and Central America. Porto
Alegre: EDIPUCRS, Brasil.

I do note that a number of rivulans are carrying that genus name now.
_Kryptolebias caudomaculatus_ formerly _Rivulus caudomaculatus_ is a
close relative of _R. marmoratus_, so, it may be that it is now a
_Kryptolebias_.

I haven't kept up with killies for several years, so I may give Bruce a
holler about this (or Tony Terceira) to see what they have to say. I do
see it _Kryptolebias marmoratus_ used in recent literature, but also see
more references to _Rivulus marmoratus_ in the same time period. It may
be a name in transition.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Judy R
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 11:42 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Sex Change in fish

Good Morning Everyone,

I just wanted to let you know that the Rivulus Marmoratus has been
reclassified. Their new name is Kryptoleb Marmoratus. My fiance and I
have just acquired 2 of these unique species for our killifish
collection. If you would like to read more about this species here is a
site which includes the DNA test of individual fish and successive
generations.

http://www.biol.vt.edu/faculty/turner/rivmar/default.html

It's really quite amazing!

Judy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18726 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006
Actually, the fish are carried up by the Gulf Stream. I don't know if they are still doing it, but every year we used to take a trip in late August/early September, to the coast of Rhode Island to see what we could find. The marine people were often ecstatic when they found a small specimen of a tropical species. More often we would find seahorses and pipefish that are normally found further south.

The "we" above were members of various clubs in the area.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of snerticus
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 11:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006

Sissy, the water may be cooler offshore, but inwards it's quite warm.
I used to go to Myrtle Beach yearly in the summers and the water was in
the low 80's typically.

However, I used to catch fish (yep, even when I was a little girl, I
would go with my parents to Myrtle Beach, but instead of hanging out at
the beach, I used to have a blast catching fish and taking them back to
Pennsylvania for my tanks. Among some of them where: pipefish, shrimp,
squid, a spadefish and a porcupine fish, and of course, the ever
present hermit crabs.

The eddies that form in Florida waters travel up the coast and may
contain tropical fish and other hitchhikers. Sometimes you may read an
article where seomeone in New York has found a "tropical" fish off the
coast. It's not unheard of. I learned this from an oceanography class
I took in college (I also took meteorology, ichthyology and geology,
but was an art major!) and they were all quite interesting. :)



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> Can you believe it! I been following this story for 5 years, just
more and more of them each year being reported. I'm surprised, with the
water being so cool in the carolinas.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18727 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
I know you really don't want to hear it but I will say
it anyway: even an entry level PROFESSIONAL position
requires a university degree PLUS additional
qualifications. As with any field, formal education
is your foundation or "building block". It's your
ticket to advancement and a livable salary. We all
had to do it: it was a huge INVESTMENT. Yes, it's a
hard and expensive grind but your alternative is
pretty much limited to that of pet-store clerk. The
most basic professional career I located (after only a
brief search) was the following - and as expected, it
requires a minimum of an Associate's Degree.
Realistically speaking though, I'll bet the TRUE
minimum educational qualification for an Aquarist
position is a Bachelor of Science. In Canada (where I
live) we don't even have such a thing as an
"Associate's Degree". The minimum requirement for any
serious career-path "professional" position is at
MINIMUM a Bachelor's degree.

http://www.seaworld.org/infobooks/ZooCareers/aquarium.html

"Aquarist"

0. Main job duties: The responsibilities of this
entry-level, but essential, position include the
preparation and distribution of food to fishes,
invertebrates, amphibians, and reptiles. Aquarists
also monitor animal health and maintain careful
records on nutrition, behavior, and water quality. In
addition to keeping displays clean and setting up new
exhibits, they assist with the collection of new
specimens and their safe transport to the park.
0. Initial training: An aquarist should have a number
of years of experience taking care of aquatic species,
either as a dedicated hobbyist or by working in a pet
store. An understanding of basic chemistry concepts
and some plumbing skills are also helpful.

0. Minimum education: Associate's or Bachelor's
degree; scuba certification

0. Works closely with: Other aquarists, laboratory
staff, park guests, Education department, and Water
Quality department
Challenges: An aquarist must prepare and distribute
the correct type and amount of food for each species.
Food preparation and exhibit cleaning involve hours of
strenuous daily physical activity, including heavy
lifting. Aquarists must be aware of water chemistry
and work with their supervisors to maintain proper
balances. Learning the needs of each species,
maintaining environments at a high quality, and
spotting health problems early, before they spread to
other animals in a display, are vital, daily
challenges.


-- cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote:

> hello my name is cody and i am 25 years old. I tried
> college after
> highschool and i did not like it. So i joined the
> military for four
> years. I have been out of the military and have an
> ok job now but i
> know i do not want to be doing my job my whole life.
> I passions is
> interacting with animals especially fish and other
> aquatic animals. So
> i am going to go to school and i would like a job
> dealing with fish and
> intereacting with them possibly raising them or any
> other aquatic jobs,
> but at the same time i want to make good money from
> this and have it as
> my main job, i want to be able to live off of this
> job and not
> struggle, can anyone help me and point me in the
> right direction
>
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18728 From: Actually, people do call me snert Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online, Sept. 9, 2006
You are right steve, the eddies break off of the gulf stream as it
heads up north, and move inward towards the coast. Thanks for making
me delve deeper into what seems like ancient memory...

Okay, I think I need a nap now. :-)

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Actually, the fish are carried up by the Gulf Stream. I don't know
if they are still doing it, but every year we used to take a trip in
late August/early September, to the coast of Rhode Island to see what
we could find. The marine people were often ecstatic when they found
a small specimen of a tropical species. More often we would find
seahorses and pipefish that are normally found further south.
>
> The "we" above were members of various clubs in the area.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of snerticus
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 11:03 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Bad-News Beauties: Science News Online,
Sept. 9, 2006
>
> Sissy, the water may be cooler offshore, but inwards it's quite
warm.
> I used to go to Myrtle Beach yearly in the summers and the water
was in
> the low 80's typically.
>
> However, I used to catch fish (yep, even when I was a little girl,
I
> would go with my parents to Myrtle Beach, but instead of hanging
out at
> the beach, I used to have a blast catching fish and taking them
back to
> Pennsylvania for my tanks. Among some of them where: pipefish,
shrimp,
> squid, a spadefish and a porcupine fish, and of course, the ever
> present hermit crabs.
>
> The eddies that form in Florida waters travel up the coast and may
> contain tropical fish and other hitchhikers. Sometimes you may read
an
> article where seomeone in New York has found a "tropical" fish off
the
> coast. It's not unheard of. I learned this from an oceanography
class
> I took in college (I also took meteorology, ichthyology and
geology,
> but was an art major!) and they were all quite interesting. :)
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@> wrote:
> >
> > Can you believe it! I been following this story for 5 years, just
> more and more of them each year being reported. I'm surprised, with
the
> water being so cool in the carolinas.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18729 From: Actually, people do call me snert Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
I wanted to say it would be extremely difficult myself, however, if
you have the ambition and the drive, you may be able to do it. I
wanted to be a Marine Biologist in the worst way when I went to
college (still do, but there's really no money in it at this point in
my life). All I wanted to do was survive, not make big bucks. But
circumstances had me graduate an art major (too long a story) and
I've been dabbling in many animal related things ever since. None of
which make money, even with my Bachelors Degree in Art and an
Associates Degree in Veterinary Science Technology. So I decided at
just over the age of 40 to go to school for another of my "passions" -
computers. I just wasn't making the money I needed to survive in the
animal-related fields.

That said, you are still young and have a passion for aquatic life.
Go with it. It wasn't until I was a junior in college that I
actually got serious enough to do well in my studies. Before that I
couldn't be bothered. Don't give up. Get as many books and
magazines as possible that you can read up on in the aquatic sciences
and then get yourself psyched up about going back to school. You can
do it, and as you learn more you'll want to accomplish more.

Good Luck

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Christa Ciglan <cciglan@...>
wrote:
>
> I know you really don't want to hear it but I will say
> it anyway: even an entry level PROFESSIONAL position
> requires a university degree PLUS additional
> qualifications. As with any field, formal education
> is your foundation or "building block". It's your
> ticket to advancement and a livable salary. We all
> had to do it: it was a huge INVESTMENT. Yes, it's a
> hard and expensive grind but your alternative is
> pretty much limited to that of pet-store clerk. The
> most basic professional career I located (after only a
> brief search) was the following - and as expected, it
> requires a minimum of an Associate's Degree.
> Realistically speaking though, I'll bet the TRUE
> minimum educational qualification for an Aquarist
> position is a Bachelor of Science. In Canada (where I
> live) we don't even have such a thing as an
> "Associate's Degree". The minimum requirement for any
> serious career-path "professional" position is at
> MINIMUM a Bachelor's degree.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18730 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/11/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
One thing you can also look into is aquaculture. Thats a fish breeding farm. Last I seen it given at Salem State College in MA.

cody adams <cornbread_05@...> wrote: hello my name is cody and i am 25 years old. I tried college after
highschool and i did not like it. So i joined the military for four
years. I have been out of the military and have an ok job now but i
know i do not want to be doing my job my whole life. I passions is
interacting with animals especially fish and other aquatic animals. So
i am going to go to school and i would like a job dealing with fish and
intereacting with them possibly raising them or any other aquatic jobs,
but at the same time i want to make good money from this and have it as
my main job, i want to be able to live off of this job and not
struggle, can anyone help me and point me in the right direction






---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18731 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
I am a 38 year old woman and I have worked the entire spectrum of the animal
world other than aquatics. There are plenty of options open for you.
If you are able, boarding pets while their parents are away is a great
avenue. Adding fish to that list would not be a bad idea either, though I would
say the issue of trust and going into ones home while they are away would have
to be another issue.
Groomers don't make such a bad idea as well.
Taking some courses may be a good idea, whether in the aquatic area or even
a Veterinarian. Then specializing in one species is where you can make a very
good living.
There are food wholesalers as well who look for people to sell out their
stock as well. I know the BARF food is one of them. Bones and raw Food. "Timber
Organics" and Dr. Billinghursts raw food is another.People who have the bucks,
invest it in extravagant tanks and have people who come out and service them
for them.
Maybe Even breeding exotic fish or even a dog or cat breeders make some
pretty good bucks.
If you don't mind horses, becoming a blacksmith and shoeing makes some extra
cash as well.
Though this has not much to do with fish, becoming a diver and taking a
welding course makes really big bucks.These are obviously underwater divers.
If you live near the coast, and don't mind a bit of hard labor, people pay a
pretty penny to have their boats cleaned underside.
_Careers & Jobs in Marine Biology & Oceanography_
(http://www-marine.stanford.edu/HMSweb/careers.html)
That seems to be a pretty good site too.As well as this one.

_Earn a Career in Aquatics with Aquatic Partners_
(http://www.aquaticpartners.com/world_of_aquatics.html)
Since you have already had your foot in the door in the military, have you
searched out any careers in the coastguard?
Sea Urchin Diving as well as lobster diving might be cool as well but, I
wouldn't do it. People like them tend to get eaten by whites. olololol
Going into areas where they allow people to swim with dolphins might be
something. As well as jobs with Sea World. Depending on your goal, you may have
to start at a menial level if you don't want to take the role of a degree.
Though I would take advantage of that GI bill and take some courses in Marine
Biology.


_MarineBio.org - Marine Biology, Ocean Life Conservation, Sea creatures,
Biodiversity, Oceans research..._ (http://marinebio.org/)
All I can say is try not to be too dead set in one direction. One menial
occupation could open the doors to a lot of opportunities.

I know that government jobs like the Environment Protection Agency might be
easier for you to get into rather than a normal civilian.

Check out what the government and military does offer in the way of what you
might like to do. You already have more doors open to you than a lot of
people by already having a military background.
I am a disabled Marine, I have tons of benefits. Maybe you should check out
your options as well.

Good Luck,
Karen



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18732 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Holes in the fins
I have a flame gourami who has recently developed a hole in his top fin.
It first became a thin spot then a hole the next day. Now today another
is forming on his tail fin. The other gourami is not showing the same
signs, it's a dwarf blue.
The tank is being treated w/ furan-2. The holes appeared after
treatment began 3 days ago.
Water quality is in check. Nitrates 40, nitrites 0, ammonia 0, pH 7.2

I have a friend whos Jack Dempsey also developed a hole. It just one
day appeared is now there for the long term it seems. Could that be
just something natural? I'm worried mainly because now there is another
starting. Two in 4 days seems mighty odd.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18733 From: drhyperlaur Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: hi
heys,

i've just joined the group and i want to introduce myself :)

my name is Laur and i am from Romania.

i am a medicine student and i have been breeding aquarium fish for about
10 years

here's my blog where i share my experience: aquarium blog
<http://www.tropical-aquariums.com>

have a nice day :)



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18734 From: Cory Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Sick Placostamus (sp)
I just lost a large (about 5-6" long) Placostamus........he got a white spot on his tail and white around his
mouth, turned up on his side and passed away. I now have a smaller one, about 3" long that has the same
white on him. I treated the tank and moved him and treated him for ick. It's not working. Can anyone
tell me what might be wrong with him. I have only 1 more left and don't want anything to happen to him
or this to spread to my other fish. Thanks in advance.....Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18735 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish Symptoms - from Nancy T.
Dear Friends of Fish,

It was a very hard decision to get rid of my bully gold fish. I, too,
have grown attached to my little fish friends. In answer to some of your
comments:

1. I posted the same note twice because of my inability to see any
comments on my email ... assuming it hadn't been posted because of my signature
... the second one, you'll notice did not have the same signature at the end.

2. Being new to the fish caring business, I have not heard of LFS ...
tell me more about this organization. I would have loved to have passed the
fish on to someone who could've told me something about it's quick growth, huge
belly, huge/thick bloody stools, bully behavior that was literally causing
the other two gold fish to starve to death. One actually did die from his/her
behavior.

3. Since I removed the bully gold fish, my other gold fish is doing
swimmingly, literally, and the tank is clear. Other than this fish are two bottom
feeders. It's been about a week since the dirty deed, so time will tell if
I can keep a clearer and cleaner tank with just one gold fish in a 5 found
hex tank.

4. I tried to think of some place could've taken my bully gold fish and
thought the golf pond pool was a good place for it to grow larger, if it
could adapt, which I had heard has happened from time to time. The alternative
was the toilet bowl, without knowing anything about LFS, and I knew it was
risky but this was my decision. I do feel responsible for the life and
happiness of my fish but sometimes one has to make a hard decision.

Well, that just about sums up my thoughts. Thank you all for
commenting. I am not offended, just grateful you took the time to respond! -
Sincerely, Nancy T.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18736 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish Symptoms - from Nancy T.
Hi Nancy, "LFS" is a commonly used abbreviation on the fish groups,
meaning "Local Fish Store." Its quite possible the store where you
buy your supplies (fish food, etc.) may have taken the fish from you
even though you may not have received anything for it if he had to
treat it. At least it might have been cared for. If it is diseased,
it will not stand much chance of getting better without any care.

By -- 5 "found" hex tank, did you mean 5 gallon hex tank? If so,
that size tank is hardly big enough to house 3 goldfish even
temporarily. It will not even be big enough for your one remaining
goldfish as it grows. Depending on the variety, a goldfish will
eventually require up to 30 gallons by itself. Since you are going
to need a larger tank anyway, you could have bought one now for your
present fish and treated the sick fish in the smaller tank. Then,
even if your local fish store (LFS) was reluctant to take in a sick
fish, there's a strong possibility he would have taken it when cured
and may even have given you fish food (or money) in return.

Common goldfish (and Comets and Sarassa's) can and do live outdoors
in ponds, sometimes wild ponds, but if in the wild, they've grown up
to be able to find their own foods. On the other hand, whether being
able to find food or not, Fantail or any other kind of fancy goldfish
will not survive winter under the ice, if your zone's weather allows
ponds to freeze over; they just are not quite hardy enough. Either
way, the fish doesn't stand much chance, not to mention the previous
reminder that it may affect other fish with an illness. I understand
it may have been a hard decision, but you could have done more for it
if you treated it in another tank or approached your fish store
dealer about it. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, NancyTroyer@... wrote:
>
> Dear Friends of Fish,
>
> It was a very hard decision to get rid of my bully gold fish.
I, too,
> have grown attached to my little fish friends. In answer to some
of your
> comments:
>
> 1. I posted the same note twice because of my inability to see
any
> comments on my email ... assuming it hadn't been posted because of
my signature
> ... the second one, you'll notice did not have the same signature
at the end.
>
> 2. Being new to the fish caring business, I have not heard of
LFS ...
> tell me more about this organization. I would have loved to have
passed the
> fish on to someone who could've told me something about it's quick
growth, huge
> belly, huge/thick bloody stools, bully behavior that was literally
causing
> the other two gold fish to starve to death. One actually did die
from his/her
> behavior.
>
> 3. Since I removed the bully gold fish, my other gold fish is
doing
> swimmingly, literally, and the tank is clear. Other than this fish
are two bottom
> feeders. It's been about a week since the dirty deed, so time
will tell if
> I can keep a clearer and cleaner tank with just one gold fish in a
5 found
> hex tank.
>
> 4. I tried to think of some place could've taken my bully gold
fish and
> thought the golf pond pool was a good place for it to grow larger,
if it
> could adapt, which I had heard has happened from time to time.
The alternative
> was the toilet bowl, without knowing anything about LFS, and I
knew it was
> risky but this was my decision. I do feel responsible for the
life and
> happiness of my fish but sometimes one has to make a hard decision.
>
> Well, that just about sums up my thoughts. Thank you all for
> commenting. I am not offended, just grateful you took the time to
respond! -
> Sincerely, Nancy T.
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18737 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Well if its cottony looking its not ick its fungus. Not only would i treat it but also check your water for Ph ammonia, nitrited and nitrates.

Cory <wdwwife@...> wrote: I just lost a large (about 5-6" long) Placostamus........he got a white spot on his tail and white around his
mouth, turned up on his side and passed away. I now have a smaller one, about 3" long that has the same
white on him. I treated the tank and moved him and treated him for ick. It's not working. Can anyone
tell me what might be wrong with him. I have only 1 more left and don't want anything to happen to him
or this to spread to my other fish. Thanks in advance.....Cory






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18738 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Is there a universal treatment or what would be good to use?

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18739 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Cory,
If it's a "fungus", Jungle makes a great fizz tab called Fungus Cure.
It turns the water funky green but it works very well.
As stated before, if it's a white fuzzy looking place/spot then this is
what you need.
ICK looks like someone sprinkled the fish with a salt shaker. It isn't
in just one area but instead all over.
Does the white spot appear to be thick and a decent size or is it more
like a tiny pin dot?

Leslie

<http://www.zainyzebra.com/>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 2:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sick Placostamus (sp)



Is there a universal treatment or what would be good to use?

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18740 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Furan 2

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote: Is there a universal treatment or what would be good to use?

---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18741 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Cory,

There is also a fizzing tab I use called called Fungus Clear it is made by Jungle or maybe this is the same thing? But either way it works good! It will turn the water blue for a few days but this goes away.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
Cory,
If it's a "fungus", Jungle makes a great fizz tab called Fungus Cure.
It turns the water funky green but it works very well.
As stated before, if it's a white fuzzy looking place/spot then this is
what you need.
ICK looks like someone sprinkled the fish with a salt shaker. It isn't
in just one area but instead all over.
Does the white spot appear to be thick and a decent size or is it more
like a tiny pin dot?

Leslie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 2:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sick Placostamus (sp)



Is there a universal treatment or what would be good to use?

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18742 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
In my past emails I was frantic and desperate for help to figure out what
was going on with my GKF. He is still floating in a verticle position, breathing
normally.
Yesterday I did a lot of studying and only came up with a posibble swim
bladder disorder. I am treating the tank with medicated salt, and antibiotics.
Since I am so desperate, I contacted Foster&Smith. Told them the ordeal. They
told me that I was doing everything I should and even to try to feed him with
some Garlic Elixer which is good for the immune system. I can't get him to
eat.
People, this may sound silly but, I am really attached to him. He is like my
little puppy dog. He is only about 8 or 9 inches long. He has been thriving
since I have had him.
I had a Bala Shark in the past who had swim bladder disease and recovered. I
just hope my little man does as well.
Please send some fishy prayers.
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18743 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Karen,

I know how you feel. We do and can get attached to our finned family members. I feel strange when I tell people who I work with that I love my fish just as much as I do my cat and dog and Iguana. They say how can you love a Goldfish? The answer to that is easy....you can love a fish because when you take care of something and you know that they depend on you for their very livelyhood you become attached. Especially when I get home from work and they are just as happy to see me as our dog. My fish literally swin in circles when they see me walk into the living room and it is comforting to know they know my face and I have only had these fish for two weeks! Is that CRAZY or what?


http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/







---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18744 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Hi Karen,

I do hope that all turns out alright for the little guy. I know what it is like to loose a fish you really love. Just do all you can and that is all that can be expected. I wish you luck with his cure and better health.

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/


----- Original Message -----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 6:35 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ghost Knife Fish still sick


In my past emails I was frantic and desperate for help to figure out what
was going on with my GKF. He is still floating in a verticle position, breathing
normally.
Yesterday I did a lot of studying and only came up with a posibble swim
bladder disorder. I am treating the tank with medicated salt, and antibiotics.
Since I am so desperate, I contacted Foster&Smith. Told them the ordeal. They
told me that I was doing everything I should and even to try to feed him with
some Garlic Elixer which is good for the immune system. I can't get him to
eat.
People, this may sound silly but, I am really attached to him. He is like my
little puppy dog. He is only about 8 or 9 inches long. He has been thriving
since I have had him.
I had a Bala Shark in the past who had swim bladder disease and recovered. I
just hope my little man does as well.
Please send some fishy prayers.
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18745 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
That's the same I was talking about.
L


<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Kokoruda
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 6:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sick Placostamus (sp)



Cory,

There is also a fizzing tab I use called called Fungus Clear it is made
by Jungle or maybe this is the same thing? But either way it works good!
It will turn the water blue for a few days but this goes away.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net>
net> wrote:
Cory,
If it's a "fungus", Jungle makes a great fizz tab called Fungus Cure.
It turns the water funky green but it works very well.
As stated before, if it's a white fuzzy looking place/spot then this is
what you need.
ICK looks like someone sprinkled the fish with a salt shaker. It isn't
in just one area but instead all over.
Does the white spot appear to be thick and a decent size or is it more
like a tiny pin dot?

Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 2:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sick Placostamus (sp)

Is there a universal treatment or what would be good to use?

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community. <http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12>
webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech. <http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/>
groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18746 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
It looks like cotton.....on his tail, his bottom side around his mouth and his nose. I have him quarantined now because another fish is biteing at him.......

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18747 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Thanks for the info.......I'll try it...right away....

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18748 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Well get yourself to Walmart and buy those fizzing tabs then. What are you using again to treat him?

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote: It looks like cotton.....on his tail, his bottom side around his mouth and his nose. I have him quarantined now because another fish is biteing at him.......

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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links













http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18749 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
I got Jungle's Fungus Eliminator at the pet store......it's yellow granules and I have it in there now......will this work as well? I treated tonight and can treat again in 4 days......

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18750 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Holes in the fins
Leslie,

You seem to have ruled out water quality as the causative agent. Since
you appear to be able to see the holes develop over time, which kind of
rules out another critter causing the holes. While there may be other
cause, things we are not measuring in the water, for example, or, the
fact that it might "just happen", we are beginning to have a finger
pointed at the Furan-2. You might want to take a look around for
contra-indications of the use of the drug--the "bad" things that can
happen with its use. You may not find it on the label or from any
descriptions from the manufacturer. You may merely have anecdotal
evidence found in lists and/or articles on the Net. You might want to
try using Scirus to help in your search - http://www.scirus.com - since
it searches mainly scientific literature.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 10:39 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Holes in the fins

I have a flame gourami who has recently developed a hole in his top fin.
It first became a thin spot then a hole the next day. Now today another
is forming on his tail fin. The other gourami is not showing the same
signs, it's a dwarf blue.
The tank is being treated w/ furan-2. The holes appeared after
treatment began 3 days ago.
Water quality is in check. Nitrates 40, nitrites 0, ammonia 0, pH 7.2

I have a friend whos Jack Dempsey also developed a hole. It just one
day appeared is now there for the long term it seems. Could that be
just something natural? I'm worried mainly because now there is another
starting. Two in 4 days seems mighty odd.

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18751 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ... What kind of fish would you
put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a bigger tank ...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18752 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Hello Nancy,

What kind of fish are you currently owned by? In a 5 gallon Hex tank I would have maybe one Lionhead Goldfish? But I will leave this question of yours up to the experts on this group. Good luck!

NancyTroyer@... wrote:
If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ... What kind of fish would you
put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a bigger tank ...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/
Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network







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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18753 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Cory,

If the wound site looks like cotton it is more than likely a Fungus. I am not sure of what you are using as I have only used the fizzing tabs. I usually use a fizzing tab at the very first signs of a case of the fuzzies! In the two weeks almost three that I have had my finned babies I have noticed that one of them was starting to get a case of the fuzzies so I secluded her in the 10 gallon hospital tank I keep set up and with just one fizzy and over night it was gone. I spend countless days just staring at and talking to my fish. I researched that this is a good thing to do so that at the first signs of any stress or illness you will know.

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote:
It looks like cotton.....on his tail, his bottom side around his mouth and his nose. I have him quarantined now because another fish is biteing at him.......

---------------------------------
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links













http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/
Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network







---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18754 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
neon tetras, or a betta and some cory catfish, how about some cherry
shrimp, those are cute scuttling around the tank, mayabe a dwarf
african aquatic frog...

> If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ... What kind of fish
would you
> put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a bigger tank ...
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18755 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
I have remembered that I also have Tetracycline so I am treating him
internally as well as externally. Its definitely a learning experience.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18756 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Try this.
_http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm_
(http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm)

And this one
_http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/disease/clinicalsigns.htm_
(http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/disease/clinicalsigns.htm)


I get a lot of info and treatment from these sites. I hope they help.

Karen



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18757 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
I know what you mean. These guys all come in swimming around the front of
the tank when I feed them. My GKF has just started letting me feed him by hand
too.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18758 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Small tetras or guppies would go nicely in there.

NancyTroyer@... wrote: If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ... What kind of fish would you
put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a bigger tank ...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18759 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: hi
Hi!! Wow!! Romania. That's neat. Is there any fishkeeping there?
Welcome to the group.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18760 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Karen,

Are you feeding him after the lights are off? These are nocturnal
creatures, and this may be why he seems not to eat. If you want, you can
get some red cellophane and place it over a flashlight to cast a red
light so you can more clearly observe if he is eating or not.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 7:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ghost Knife Fish still sick

In my past emails I was frantic and desperate for help to figure out
what
was going on with my GKF. He is still floating in a verticle position,
breathing
normally.
Yesterday I did a lot of studying and only came up with a posibble swim

bladder disorder. I am treating the tank with medicated salt, and
antibiotics.
Since I am so desperate, I contacted Foster&Smith. Told them the ordeal.
They
told me that I was doing everything I should and even to try to feed him
with
some Garlic Elixer which is good for the immune system. I can't get him
to
eat.
People, this may sound silly but, I am really attached to him. He is
like my
little puppy dog. He is only about 8 or 9 inches long. He has been
thriving
since I have had him.
I had a Bala Shark in the past who had swim bladder disease and
recovered. I
just hope my little man does as well.
Please send some fishy prayers.
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18761 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
You can start a lion head fish but eventually you would have to up grade as it gets bigger.

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hello Nancy,

What kind of fish are you currently owned by? In a 5 gallon Hex tank I would have maybe one Lionhead Goldfish? But I will leave this question of yours up to the experts on this group. Good luck!

NancyTroyer@... wrote:
If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ... What kind of fish would you
put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a bigger tank ...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
Also hoping to help promote this group
please visit and feel free to join!
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/blackmoor/
Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18762 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: YouTube - Bulletproof Server and Goldfish
Actually a NAS array, but, watch the goldfish.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=mAuKwTDGnCg

\\Steve//
Smith & Wesson, The Original Point And Click Interface
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18763 From: Judy R Date: 9/12/2006
Subject: Re: Sex Change in fish
HI Steve,

Tony is a great guy and definitely knows his killifish! I agree he would be a great resource to verify the information. Keep me posted!

Thanks Steve......

Judy


---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18764 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
There are a number of good fish you can place in a 5 gallon tank. It
really depends on what may catch your fancy. If you want a tank that is
not heated, as it would be for goldfish,, see if you can find some white
cloud mountain fish. Some of the smaller livebearers would also do well
in an unheated tank. Look around and see what you like, then do some
research on them and bring your questions here to determine if they
would be a good fish for such an environment.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 10:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?

If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ... What kind of fish would
you
put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a bigger tank ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18765 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
No goldfish would be the ideal number of goldfish in that tank. It is
simply just too small for goldfish of any size--the younger, smaller
fish will quickly outgrow a tank of that size.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Kokoruda
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 10:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?

Hello Nancy,

What kind of fish are you currently owned by? In a 5 gallon Hex tank I
would have maybe one Lionhead Goldfish? But I will leave this question
of yours up to the experts on this group. Good luck!

NancyTroyer@... wrote:
If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ... What kind of fish
would you
put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a bigger tank ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18766 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Thanks for all the advice. I will keep it for future problems. My fishie died during the night.......I still have one left and I will watch him very closely.


---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18767 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Holes in the fins
Although a newbie to the tropical fish world, could another fish be
attacking it?

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

At 10:38 AM 9/12/2006, you wrote:

>I have a flame gourami who has recently developed a hole in his top fin.
>It first became a thin spot then a hole the next day. Now today another
>is forming on his tail fin. The other gourami is not showing the same
>signs, it's a dwarf blue.
>The tank is being treated w/ furan-2. The holes appeared after
>treatment began 3 days ago.
>Water quality is in check. Nitrates 40, nitrites 0, ammonia 0, pH 7.2
>
>I have a friend whos Jack Dempsey also developed a hole. It just one
>day appeared is now there for the long term it seems. Could that be
>just something natural? I'm worried mainly because now there is another
>starting. Two in 4 days seems mighty odd.
>
>Thanks,
>Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18768 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: aquarium newbie guppy q
At 10:45 AM 9/7/2006, you wrote:

>I have had male guppies actually kill other male guppies. I'm not
>sure if it's a stress thing or they are somewhat territorial. I have
>also had male guppies go after male bettas. If they are fancy
>fantail guppies, it might be a "motion" thing. It was with the betta. Cory
>
>
>---------------------------------

Thank you to everyone who helped me with my guppy question. I took
one person's advice and got several females, one of which seems
pregnant. I moved my ghost shrimp to my betta's tank for fear that
they'll eat any babies borne to one who looks quite pregnant,
btw. I've also bought one of those breeder cups that will allow me
to separate the babies from being eaten by the males, who get along
nicely now. Not sure if one had a sex change, but whatever, it's
working. In fact, they seem made for each other. Both are assertive
and constantly go at each other, but it all seems like it's in
play. I divided the females from the males till the females had a
chance to acclimate. Together, they now seem to all get along,
although the males can still be annoying to the women. Why does that
seem so familiar to me? Maybe males and females universally get
along in the same manner, on shore and in the water. :-)

Anyway, thanks again.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18769 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: please someone help me
At 09:28 PM 9/11/2006, you wrote:

>hello my name is cody and i am 25 years old. I tried college after
>highschool and i did not like it. So i joined the military for four
>years. I have been out of the military and have an ok job now but i
>know i do not want to be doing my job my whole life. I passions is
>interacting with animals especially fish and other aquatic animals. So
>i am going to go to school and i would like a job dealing with fish and
>intereacting with them possibly raising them or any other aquatic jobs,
>but at the same time i want to make good money from this and have it as
>my main job, i want to be able to live off of this job and not
>struggle, can anyone help me and point me in the right direction

Have you called an aquarium? Or an aquatic shelter? Someone there
might steer you in the right direction.
Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18770 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Karen....thanks for the sites. I'll archive them for future use. I lost my fish during the night but will definitely watch the remaining one very closely. Cory

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18771 From: chris topher Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
a betta would be nice in a tank that size, you could
also throw in a couple white clouds...

woody

--- NancyTroyer@... wrote:

> If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ...
> What kind of fish would you
> put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a
> bigger tank ...
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18772 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Holes in the fins
Thanks Steve. I will do that search here in a while.

I am about to do another water change as well as put the carbon back
into the filters today. I have a quarentine filter cycling on this tank
in order to move it over to a 10 gal should I need to treat him, or just
seperate him from this water in general.

He now has white patchy places on his body as well. They look the size
of what a "cottony fungus" patch would be, but they aren't at all
cottony or fuzzy. I'm watching his behavior like a hawk.
I think the furan-2 must have had a hand in this. The timing is too
coincidental and he was a very healthy fish before this.

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 8:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Holes in the fins



Leslie,

You seem to have ruled out water quality as the causative agent. Since
you appear to be able to see the holes develop over time, which kind of
rules out another critter causing the holes. While there may be other
cause, things we are not measuring in the water, for example, or, the
fact that it might "just happen", we are beginning to have a finger
pointed at the Furan-2. You might want to take a look around for
contra-indications of the use of the drug--the "bad" things that can
happen with its use. You may not find it on the label or from any
descriptions from the manufacturer. You may merely have anecdotal
evidence found in lists and/or articles on the Net. You might want to
try using Scirus to help in your search - http://www.scirus
<http://www.scirus.com> com - since
it searches mainly scientific literature.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 10:39 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Holes in the fins

I have a flame gourami who has recently developed a hole in his top fin.
It first became a thin spot then a hole the next day. Now today another
is forming on his tail fin. The other gourami is not showing the same
signs, it's a dwarf blue.
The tank is being treated w/ furan-2. The holes appeared after
treatment began 3 days ago.
Water quality is in check. Nitrates 40, nitrites 0, ammonia 0, pH 7.2

I have a friend whos Jack Dempsey also developed a hole. It just one
day appeared is now there for the long term it seems. Could that be
just something natural? I'm worried mainly because now there is another
starting. Two in 4 days seems mighty odd.

Thanks,
Leslie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18773 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Holes in the fins
Not where the holes are, they are mid fin. The edges are not ripped,
torn or otherwise abnormal. There is just a prominent hole in the
middle of an otherwise great looking fin. Poor fish!
I'm changing water and getting the meds out today. I have hopes that
will help his situation! =)

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Holes in the fins



Although a newbie to the tropical fish world, could another fish be
attacking it?

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. <mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com> com
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioriti
<http://www.prioritiesonline.com> esonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpad <http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio> a.com/jfazio to
preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

At 10:38 AM 9/12/2006, you wrote:

>I have a flame gourami who has recently developed a hole in his top
fin.
>It first became a thin spot then a hole the next day. Now today another
>is forming on his tail fin. The other gourami is not showing the same
>signs, it's a dwarf blue.
>The tank is being treated w/ furan-2. The holes appeared after
>treatment began 3 days ago.
>Water quality is in check. Nitrates 40, nitrites 0, ammonia 0, pH 7.2
>
>I have a friend whos Jack Dempsey also developed a hole. It just one
>day appeared is now there for the long term it seems. Could that be
>just something natural? I'm worried mainly because now there is another
>starting. Two in 4 days seems mighty odd.
>
>Thanks,
>Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18774 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Don't bettas need a steady, warmer temperature? I always have a small
heater in ours. When I didn't have one, he was sick all the time which
I thought was due the flucutation in temp. ?
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?



a betta would be nice in a tank that size, you could
also throw in a couple white clouds...

woody

--- NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com> aol.com wrote:

> If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ...
> What kind of fish would you
> put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a
> bigger tank ...
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18775 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
So sorry Cory. =(
Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sick Placostamus (sp)



Karen....thanks for the sites. I'll archive them for future use. I lost
my fish during the night but will definitely watch the remaining one
very closely. Cory

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small
Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18776 From: chris topher Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
they dont have heaters in those little bowls people
keep them in...

i have an eclipse 5 and eclipse 3, without heaters,
both of which have bettas, they seem to do fine...

woody

--- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:

> Don't bettas need a steady, warmer temperature? I
> always have a small
> heater in ours. When I didn't have one, he was sick
> all the time which
> I thought was due the flucutation in temp. ?
> Leslie
>
>
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:47 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for
> small aquarium?
>
>
>
> a betta would be nice in a tank that size, you could
> also throw in a couple white clouds...
>
> woody
>
> --- NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com>
> aol.com wrote:
>
> > If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ...
> > What kind of fish would you
> > put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a
> > bigger tank ...
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18777 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Woody,
I have friends w/ bettas in the little 2-3 gallon hex tanks. They don't
have heaters and are doing very well too.

I had a betta who was constantly sick. Fungus, popeye, fin rot, you
name it. He had everything but ich. It was suggested water temp
flucuations might be the culprit so I've since tried to maintain steady
temps in even small tanks. (He was "put to rest" on the last bout of
fin rot & pop eye, poor thing.)
I am currently setting up 2 Eclipse systems, a 3 & 6. I'm still not
certain on the heaters that will be used, if any. I hope for them to
be planted so I'm also follwoing the flourite posts. =) What do you
have in your Eclipse tanks?
Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 9:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?



they dont have heaters in those little bowls people
keep them in...

i have an eclipse 5 and eclipse 3, without heaters,
both of which have bettas, they seem to do fine...

woody

--- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge.
<mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net> wrote:

> Don't bettas need a steady, warmer temperature? I
> always have a small
> heater in ours. When I didn't have one, he was sick
> all the time which
> I thought was due the flucutation in temp. ?
> Leslie
>
>
>
<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:47 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for
> small aquarium?
>
>
>
> a betta would be nice in a tank that size, you could
> also throw in a couple white clouds...
>
> woody
>
> --- NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com>
> aol.com wrote:
>
> > If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ...
> > What kind of fish would you
> > put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a
> > bigger tank ...
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail. <http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com>
yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18778 From: Kevin Batey Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Leslie,

I have Visitherm Stealth 25 watt heaters in my Eclipse 6's - I don't have any trouble with temp fluctuations. I believe you could use one in the 3 gal, too - just watch the temp until you're sure...

Kevin

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
Woody,
I have friends w/ bettas in the little 2-3 gallon hex tanks. They don't
have heaters and are doing very well too.

I had a betta who was constantly sick. Fungus, popeye, fin rot, you
name it. He had everything but ich. It was suggested water temp
flucuations might be the culprit so I've since tried to maintain steady
temps in even small tanks. (He was "put to rest" on the last bout of
fin rot & pop eye, poor thing.)
I am currently setting up 2 Eclipse systems, a 3 & 6. I'm still not
certain on the heaters that will be used, if any. I hope for them to
be planted so I'm also follwoing the flourite posts. =) What do you
have in your Eclipse tanks?
Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 9:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?

they dont have heaters in those little bowls people
keep them in...

i have an eclipse 5 and eclipse 3, without heaters,
both of which have bettas, they seem to do fine...

woody

--- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge.
<mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net> wrote:

> Don't bettas need a steady, warmer temperature? I
> always have a small
> heater in ours. When I didn't have one, he was sick
> all the time which
> I thought was due the flucutation in temp. ?
> Leslie
>
>
>
<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:47 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for
> small aquarium?
>
>
>
> a betta would be nice in a tank that size, you could
> also throw in a couple white clouds...
>
> woody
>
> --- NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com>
> aol.com wrote:
>
> > If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ...
> > What kind of fish would you
> > put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a
> > bigger tank ...
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail. <http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com>
yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18779 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Bettas need warm, humid temps to successfully spawn. But as long as
the temps are around 60 or up, they can deal with unheated water. 50
or below stresses or kills them. Sometimes the water quality is what
causes the illness, not the temps

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18780 From: chris topher Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
leslie,

i'm a little worried about your water, you seem to
have constant disease problems with your fish...

not sure what i'm doing right or wrong but i've really
only ever had to deal with ich...

the ecplise 3 has a betta and 2 little african frogs,
small annubias and some anacharis, the hex has betta
and 3 white clouds, as well as a small annubias, green
wendt and more anacharis...

i've found the lighting systems to be very good for
plants, both tanks are in bathrooms so get little
ambient light...

also i just have gravel, not a fancy substrate, but i
dont suction the gravel and the plants and fish poop
seem to like each other...

the ecplipses are really good systems...

woody

--- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:

> Woody,
> I have friends w/ bettas in the little 2-3 gallon
> hex tanks. They don't
> have heaters and are doing very well too.
>
> I had a betta who was constantly sick. Fungus,
> popeye, fin rot, you
> name it. He had everything but ich. It was
> suggested water temp
> flucuations might be the culprit so I've since tried
> to maintain steady
> temps in even small tanks. (He was "put to rest" on
> the last bout of
> fin rot & pop eye, poor thing.)
> I am currently setting up 2 Eclipse systems, a 3 &
> 6. I'm still not
> certain on the heaters that will be used, if any.
> I hope for them to
> be planted so I'm also follwoing the flourite posts.
> =) What do you
> have in your Eclipse tanks?
> Leslie
>
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 9:53 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for
> small aquarium?
>
>
>
> they dont have heaters in those little bowls people
> keep them in...
>
> i have an eclipse 5 and eclipse 3, without heaters,
> both of which have bettas, they seem to do fine...
>
> woody
>
> --- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge.
> <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net> wrote:
>
> > Don't bettas need a steady, warmer temperature? I
> > always have a small
> > heater in ours. When I didn't have one, he was
> sick
> > all the time which
> > I thought was due the flucutation in temp. ?
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> >
> <http://groups.
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of chris topher
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:47 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for
> > small aquarium?
> >
> >
> >
> > a betta would be nice in a tank that size, you
> could
> > also throw in a couple white clouds...
> >
> > woody
> >
> > --- NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com>
> > aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ...
> > > What kind of fish would you
> > > put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want
> a
> > > bigger tank ...
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> > test'; ">
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around
> > http://mail. <http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com>
> yahoo.com>
> yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18781 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
I'm so sorry. Hopefully next time, you will be able to know more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18782 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
He is not eating. And yes, I tried the frozen foods. I tried everything. I
am continuing his meds. Its all I can do.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18783 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Room temperature would be fine for them. In the wild they live in puddles so temp can fluctuate naturally.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: Don't bettas need a steady, warmer temperature? I always have a small
heater in ours. When I didn't have one, he was sick all the time which
I thought was due the flucutation in temp. ?
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?

a betta would be nice in a tank that size, you could
also throw in a couple white clouds...

woody

--- NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com> aol.com wrote:

> If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ...
> What kind of fish would you
> put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a
> bigger tank ...
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18784 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
We had a "Christmas miracle" in September.......when I went to the tank this morning he was laid on his back, not moving, no gill movement, nothing.......dead........I waited a little bit before I took him out and when I moved him to take him out, he moved......he's now back on his tummy, not really active, but he wasn't before.......he just might pull out of this with all of your help......I went ahead and got the fizzy Fungus Clear by Jungle and put one of those in there, too......along with the Jungle Fungus Eliminator.....I may have overtreated, but better (I guess) than undertreating.......I appreciate all of your help soooooooooooooooo much and so does Scooter......thanks

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18785 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Actually all those things listed is actually due to water chemistry. Temperature flucuations is what causes Ick.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: Woody,
I have friends w/ bettas in the little 2-3 gallon hex tanks. They don't
have heaters and are doing very well too.

I had a betta who was constantly sick. Fungus, popeye, fin rot, you
name it. He had everything but ich. It was suggested water temp
flucuations might be the culprit so I've since tried to maintain steady
temps in even small tanks. (He was "put to rest" on the last bout of
fin rot & pop eye, poor thing.)
I am currently setting up 2 Eclipse systems, a 3 & 6. I'm still not
certain on the heaters that will be used, if any. I hope for them to
be planted so I'm also follwoing the flourite posts. =) What do you
have in your Eclipse tanks?
Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 9:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?

they dont have heaters in those little bowls people
keep them in...

i have an eclipse 5 and eclipse 3, without heaters,
both of which have bettas, they seem to do fine...

woody

--- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge.
<mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net> wrote:

> Don't bettas need a steady, warmer temperature? I
> always have a small
> heater in ours. When I didn't have one, he was sick
> all the time which
> I thought was due the flucutation in temp. ?
> Leslie
>
>
>
<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:47 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for
> small aquarium?
>
>
>
> a betta would be nice in a tank that size, you could
> also throw in a couple white clouds...
>
> woody
>
> --- NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com>
> aol.com wrote:
>
> > If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ...
> > What kind of fish would you
> > put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a
> > bigger tank ...
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail. <http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com>
yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18786 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
I was just at the LFS and all their knives were vertical and hovering between the plants this is a natural thing for them.

Morganawolf1@... wrote: He is not eating. And yes, I tried the frozen foods. I tried everything. I
am continuing his meds. Its all I can do.

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18787 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
Nah, don't worry about my water quality. The only reason I'm on with
situations lately is because I just installed and quick cycled a 125
gallon tank and my semi-new 46 gallon seems to have a bacteria
infection. I've only had problems w/ the cory cats in that one but I
wanted to try to nip any problem there might be quickly away before
anything else came to a head. (I'm a paranoid maniac at trying to find
problems before they start!)

The 125 is fine but there was something odd going on w/ a danio. The
pop eye and the redness. With several water changes, the redness has
gone but he still has pop eye, poor thing.

I test my water frequently and have never had anything off base. Well
at least not in the last year and half anyway.

I think/know there are lots of people on the loops that have illnesses
and so on that do not post them for whatever reasons. I just post mine
to get back up opinions and such. =)

Leslie

BTW I've never had ick in any tank. KNOCK ON WOOD! =)

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 12:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?



leslie,

i'm a little worried about your water, you seem to
have constant disease problems with your fish...

not sure what i'm doing right or wrong but i've really
only ever had to deal with ich...

the ecplise 3 has a betta and 2 little african frogs,
small annubias and some anacharis, the hex has betta
and 3 white clouds, as well as a small annubias, green
wendt and more anacharis...

i've found the lighting systems to be very good for
plants, both tanks are in bathrooms so get little
ambient light...

also i just have gravel, not a fancy substrate, but i
dont suction the gravel and the plants and fish poop
seem to like each other...

the ecplipses are really good systems...

woody

--- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge.
<mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net> wrote:

> Woody,
> I have friends w/ bettas in the little 2-3 gallon
> hex tanks. They don't
> have heaters and are doing very well too.
>
> I had a betta who was constantly sick. Fungus,
> popeye, fin rot, you
> name it. He had everything but ich. It was
> suggested water temp
> flucuations might be the culprit so I've since tried
> to maintain steady
> temps in even small tanks. (He was "put to rest" on
> the last bout of
> fin rot & pop eye, poor thing.)
> I am currently setting up 2 Eclipse systems, a 3 &
> 6. I'm still not
> certain on the heaters that will be used, if any.
> I hope for them to
> be planted so I'm also follwoing the flourite posts.
> =) What do you
> have in your Eclipse tanks?
> Leslie
>
>
<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of chris topher
> Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 9:53 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for
> small aquarium?
>
>
>
> they dont have heaters in those little bowls people
> keep them in...
>
> i have an eclipse 5 and eclipse 3, without heaters,
> both of which have bettas, they seem to do fine...
>
> woody
>
> --- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge.
> <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net> wrote:
>
> > Don't bettas need a steady, warmer temperature? I
> > always have a small
> > heater in ours. When I didn't have one, he was
> sick
> > all the time which
> > I thought was due the flucutation in temp. ?
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> >
> <http://groups.
>
<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of chris topher
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:47 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for
> > small aquarium?
> >
> >
> >
> > a betta would be nice in a tank that size, you
> could
> > also throw in a couple white clouds...
> >
> > woody
> >
> > --- NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com>
> > aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ...
> > > What kind of fish would you
> > > put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want
> a
> > > bigger tank ...
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> > test'; ">
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around
> > http://mail. <http://mail. <http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com>
yahoo.com>
> yahoo.com>
> yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail. <http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com>
yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18788 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Ok! Did I miss something? I am reolying to this post that says the fish died, is this the Pleco? I also read a post where you said we have christmas in september you thought the Pleco died but when you went to move Scooter he moved! I am confused? Cory if Scooter is alive and breathing congrats! But if he is not then I am so sorry for your loss.

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote: Thanks for all the advice. I will keep it for future problems. My fishie died during the night.......I still have one left and I will watch him very closely.


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18789 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?
_Betta splendens_ in the wild is a completely different fish from the
varieties of _Betta splendens_ you see in the stores. They have been
bred for finnage and color. As with any fish that has been highly
modified genetically, they are more susceptible to temperature
differences and disease. (As you compound the desired genes, you also
compound the undesired genes that do not affect the desired end result.)
Those pictures one sees of bowls upon bowls of bettas in a room, may not
be aware that those rooms are kept warm, and as a side effect, humid for
the fish.

When you have a fish like this that is constantly being affected by one
thing or another, it is because, most likely, the immune system of the
fish has been compromised by his breeding, and he simply cannot toss
these things off, like other fish may. This may also happen in fish that
are not highly inbred as many of the varieties are. It is just the
nature of things, Think of the sickly child you may have known.

The best thing to do in a case like this is to humanely send the fish to
the great aquarium in the sky.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 3:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?

Room temperature would be fine for them. In the wild they live in
puddles so temp can fluctuate naturally.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: Don't bettas
need a steady, warmer temperature? I always have a small
heater in ours. When I didn't have one, he was sick all the time which
I thought was due the flucutation in temp. ?
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?

a betta would be nice in a tank that size, you could
also throw in a couple white clouds...

woody

--- NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com> aol.com wrote:

> If goldfish need a substantially larger tank ...
> What kind of fish would you
> put in a 5 gallon hex tank? We really don't want a
> bigger tank ...
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18790 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
I guess the meds started working.....he was flat on his back this morning, no visible signs of life and when I got ready to take him out, he moved......he's now back in the bottom of the tank moving around. I got some of that med you told me about...the fizzie....and put one of those in with them, too, along with what I put in last night...figured I'd cover all bases. I just hope he continues doing well and doesn't try to play possum again.......thanks for all the advice

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18791 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
Cory,

This is great news! I hope he continues to do better. Please keep us posted as to his condition often. By the way how is he doing right now?

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote:
I guess the meds started working.....he was flat on his back this morning, no visible signs of life and when I got ready to take him out, he moved......he's now back in the bottom of the tank moving around. I got some of that med you told me about...the fizzie....and put one of those in with them, too, along with what I put in last night...figured I'd cover all bases. I just hope he continues doing well and doesn't try to play possum again.......thanks for all the advice

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18792 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
What other meds did you put in the tank? It's likely OK but
unfortunately some meds can absolutely NOT be mixed together or they do
much more harm than good.
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 8:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sick Placostamus (sp)



I guess the meds started working.....he was flat on his back this
morning, no visible signs of life and when I got ready to take him out,
he moved......he's now back in the bottom of the tank moving around. I
got some of that med you told me about...the fizzie....and put one of
those in with them, too, along with what I put in last night...figured
I'd cover all bases. I just hope he continues doing well and doesn't try
to play possum again.......thanks for all the advice

---------------------------------
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Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18793 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?/Frank
Frank (New subject...)
You say humanely send him on. I've had my husband behead a couple of
fish as this was the "best" way I could come to a conclusion on. It's
that safe to say it's correct? I absolutely hated it.
I have heard such contradicting theories on freezing too. That was my
first way to do it then I lost sleep for days thinking I tortured my
poor fish to a slow, freezing death.
Leslie



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18794 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
If this is normal than he has only started this behavior 3 days ago. I have
had him for 6 months.
I am just going to trust my gut on this one. It is a buoyancy issue.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18795 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost Knife Fish still sick
Tonight I filled a bucket and added some med salt and stress coat. I
actually got to massage him. I swear that he burped or puked. It was weird but,
something came out of his mouth and I felt a vibration in his body when he did
it. My friend at Petco said to try giving him a massage. I tried to feed him
but, he just did not want to. I gave him meds as well. Hopefully that burp may
due the trick. Tomorrow I am going to do a partial water change, and give him
his therapy.
LOLOL. I never in my life thought I would be giving tropical fish therapy
massages. I was born and raised a salt water fisherman from the Jersey shore. I
was fishing when I was in Kindergarten and being very successful with it.
Now, I would'nt dream of fishing.
My mother thinks I have gone off the deep end.lolol


Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18796 From: angel Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: help with my tanks
I made a mistake last month and collected really cool rocks from a lake to
decorate my tanks with. I had my tanks water tested last week and all
readings were toxic. So the owner of the local fish store that tested my
water told me to come home, take out the rocks, do a 50% water change on all
of my tanks and add salt to all the tanks. I did what she said on 6 of my 8
tanks that were tested. I took water samples back today and here are the
results.



Tank 1

55 gallon

2 - 6" tiger Oscars

PH 7.8

BUFF 100

NITRITE 0

NITRATE 40

Salt .04



Tank 2

55 gallon

2 - 6" Albino Oscars

PH 7.0

BUFF 40

NITRITE 0

NITRATE 40

Salt .05



Tank 3

30 gallon

5 - 2.5 - 3" Jack Demseys

PH 6.8

BUFF 10

NITRITE 0

NITRATE 45

Salt .05



Tank 4

15 gallon

20 baby convicts

PH 7.8

BUFF 100

NITRITE 0

NITRATE 30

Salt .04



Tank 5

55 gallon

Community Tank

PH 6.2

BUFF 0

NITRITE 0.5

NITRATE 200

Salt .15



Tank 6

25 gallon

2 Breeding Black Convicts

PH 6.8

BUFF 80

NITRITE 0.5

NITRATE 20

Salt .01



The lfs again told me to come home and do a 45% water change on all my tanks
being sure to vacuum the gravel out, put stress coat in for the water I just
replaced and add 1 tbs of salt per 10 gal. I did all of that again today.



My question.How do I get my tanks on an even keal? Meaning I want good
readings and healthy fish. Does anyone have any experience with these kind
of numers? I don't even have a clue what the BUFF number is. They said just
check again in a week and then go from there.



Any help would sure be helpful.


Thanks a Binch,

Angel























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18797 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?/Frank
Freezing is a humane way. Fish are cold blooded creatures. When the
environment's temperature goes down, so does their's. Their metabolism
slows until it stops, as do they. Since they are in water, they do not
suffocate, they just stop breathing.

There is also a drug available that can be used that puts them down ,
again, slowing the metabolism, etc. I think it is called M-22 or M-222.
I've not used that.

Other methods do seem to be a bit cruel, like chopping the head off,
whacking the head against a hard surface or vice-versa, I question the
seltzer water method, but it is probably no worse than freezing
(however, you are suffocating them), etc.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 11:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What kind of fish for small aquarium?/Frank

Frank (New subject...)
You say humanely send him on. I've had my husband behead a couple of
fish as this was the "best" way I could come to a conclusion on. It's
that safe to say it's correct? I absolutely hated it.
I have heard such contradicting theories on freezing too. That was my
first way to do it then I lost sleep for days thinking I tortured my
poor fish to a slow, freezing death.
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18798 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
I was going to ask you about the BUFF readings. I suspect it is an
alkalinity reading, which can help you determine the hardness of your
water. The tanks with the higher readings, were they the ones that had
the rock?

Rather than using the pet store as your test kit, you should get some of
your own. One reason is that you can get immediate results. Water can
change from the time you remove it from the tank and get it down to the
LFS to test. You can also test your tap water. It will probably be a bit
higher in pH than the tanks--the biological processes in the tank will
see to that.

You do have quite a bit of disparity between the tanks for pH, but since
I don't know your starting point, it is difficult to determine which
tanks to pay attention to first. If the fish are showing no ill effects
from the misadventure, just maintain your normal weekly water change
schedule, run your own tests, and make your decisions based on that.
(I'm sure someone will freak out about the one tank with the 0.5 nitrite
reading in two of your tanks, but that should take care of itself in
fairly short order, or it was a mis-reading of results.)


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of angel
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 11:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; aquaria-freshwater@yahoogroups.com;
AquariumAccessories@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] help with my tanks

I made a mistake last month and collected really cool rocks from a lake
to
decorate my tanks with. I had my tanks water tested last week and all
readings were toxic. So the owner of the local fish store that tested my
water told me to come home, take out the rocks, do a 50% water change on
all
of my tanks and add salt to all the tanks. I did what she said on 6 of
my 8
tanks that were tested. I took water samples back today and here are the
results.



Tank 1

55 gallon

2 - 6" tiger Oscars

PH 7.8

BUFF 100

NITRITE 0

NITRATE 40

Salt .04



Tank 2

55 gallon

2 - 6" Albino Oscars

PH 7.0

BUFF 40

NITRITE 0

NITRATE 40

Salt .05



Tank 3

30 gallon

5 - 2.5 - 3" Jack Demseys

PH 6.8

BUFF 10

NITRITE 0

NITRATE 45

Salt .05



Tank 4

15 gallon

20 baby convicts

PH 7.8

BUFF 100

NITRITE 0

NITRATE 30

Salt .04



Tank 5

55 gallon

Community Tank

PH 6.2

BUFF 0

NITRITE 0.5

NITRATE 200

Salt .15



Tank 6

25 gallon

2 Breeding Black Convicts

PH 6.8

BUFF 80

NITRITE 0.5

NITRATE 20

Salt .01



The lfs again told me to come home and do a 45% water change on all my
tanks
being sure to vacuum the gravel out, put stress coat in for the water I
just
replaced and add 1 tbs of salt per 10 gal. I did all of that again
today.



My question.How do I get my tanks on an even keal? Meaning I want good
readings and healthy fish. Does anyone have any experience with these
kind
of numers? I don't even have a clue what the BUFF number is. They said
just
check again in a week and then go from there.



Any help would sure be helpful.


Thanks a Binch,

Angel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18799 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
This morning he was on the side of the glass eating......the fungus on his bottom side is gone, there was a streak of it on his side that is almost gone and the bunch on his nose is almost gone......he looks better.....a little perkier.......he's just a little miracle fishie and it was with all the help I got here......thanks

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18800 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
I used Jungle's Fungus Eradicator and Jungle's Fungus Clear.......the first one is yellow granules that can be used every 4 days and the second one is the fizzie tablets I was told about on here.......all of the fish in the tank look good and are really active as usual......even the placo is coming back.....

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18801 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
Your community tank with Nitrate of 200 is really high. All your other tanks, with your nitrate around 40-45ppm...that's elevated, but most fish should be able to survive it for short periods of time. My tank usually ends up testing 10-20ppm of nitrate, and my fish seem none the worse for wear.

I would keep doing 40-50% water changes every day or so (especially in that community tank) until your readings get down. There's also this beneficial bacterial stuff you can get (common brand = Cycle) that's supposed to help add beneficial bacteria in your tank that will consume nitrite and nitrate. Not sure how well it works but it's an option.

We all make mistakes...it happens! Anyone else have some suggestions for her?

Sorry for the typos...I just woke up and my eyes arent quite open yet...

Good luck!
Mel


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18802 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
BUFF=buffering capacity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18803 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Placostamus (sp)
That is GREAT Cory!

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote: This morning he was on the side of the glass eating......the fungus on his bottom side is gone, there was a streak of it on his side that is almost gone and the bunch on his nose is almost gone......he looks better.....a little perkier.......he's just a little miracle fishie and it was with all the help I got here......thanks

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links













http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18804 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
I think we might know that but does it have to do with the hardness of water?

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: BUFF=buffering capacity





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18805 From: Jennifer Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Trained
Hey ya'll

Before today I did not think this was possible! But low and behold it
is! I am just shocked! MY FISH HAVE ME TRAINED?! LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18806 From: Andrew Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Purigen
Hello:

I have been having problems finding media bags that can hold purigen.
Seachem has a bag that is 180 microns and I was wondering if anyone has
used this bag with purigen or if they have used anything other than an
old nylon stocking like I,m using now.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18807 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
It is the representation of the total alkalinity of the water, which
determines how well it can buffer a sudden change in ph. The acceptable
range for most fish is 20-200 mg/1 (ppm). You need at least a little
above 75 mg/L to offset acid produced by bacteria nitrifying ammonia

> I think we might know that but does it have to do with the hardness
of water?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18808 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: What kind of fish for small aquarium?/Frank
The freezing method is NOT torture. They simple slow down and body functions
cease after they have lost consciousness.

In a message dated 9/13/2006 8:11:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
5moores@... writes:
have heard such contradicting theories on freezing too. That was my
first way to do it then I lost sleep for days thinking I tortured my
poor fish to a slow, freezing death.
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18809 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/14/2006
Subject: Re: help with my tanks
Mel,

Get the facts on nitrates before you speak. 200 is about where you would
start watching the fish for problems, unless they are a fish that is
known to react badly with nitrates. 4045 is really nothing. While less
is always better, there is really nothing that needs to be taken care of
in a rush. Quite often, making rash and rapid changes do more damage
than taking a well planned, measured approach to a perceived problem.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Mel Bowman
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 8:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: help with my tanks

Your community tank with Nitrate of 200 is really high. All your other
tanks, with your nitrate around 40-45ppm...that's elevated, but most
fish should be able to survive it for short periods of time. My tank
usually ends up testing 10-20ppm of nitrate, and my fish seem none the
worse for wear.

I would keep doing 40-50% water changes every day or so (especially in
that community tank) until your readings get down. There's also this
beneficial bacterial stuff you can get (common brand = Cycle) that's
supposed to help add beneficial bacteria in your tank that will consume
nitrite and nitrate. Not sure how well it works but it's an option.

We all make mistakes...it happens! Anyone else have some suggestions
for her?

Sorry for the typos...I just woke up and my eyes arent quite open
yet...

Good luck!
Mel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18810 From: NancyTroyer@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: To Heat or Not to Heat
I've been reading from some of you that some fish need a heater, others do
not, and still others don't do well with a fluxation of temperatures...

My 5 gallon hex tank has a light we turn on during the daytime while we're
around and then off at night while we're sleeping or away from the house. Is
a light at the top of such an aquarium considered a heater?

And if so, what fish would do well in the environment described above?

Boy, there's a lot of learn here to be a responsible fish owner!

- Nancy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18811 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
ok guys I have a friend that has ich in their goldfish tank.. is it ok to do
the salt and heat method in that case.. I just wanted to check before I gave
incorrect info out.. thanks Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18812 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
Well it does sometimes heat the water but i should not be a total source for it. A heater should be relied on that.

NancyTroyer@... wrote: I've been reading from some of you that some fish need a heater, others do
not, and still others don't do well with a fluxation of temperatures...

My 5 gallon hex tank has a light we turn on during the daytime while we're
around and then off at night while we're sleeping or away from the house. Is
a light at the top of such an aquarium considered a heater?

And if so, what fish would do well in the environment described above?

Boy, there's a lot of learn here to be a responsible fish owner!

- Nancy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18813 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Only for the time it says in directions if you use aquarisol it would tell you how many days.

agentscullyeyore@... wrote: ok guys I have a friend that has ich in their goldfish tank.. is it ok to do
the salt and heat method in that case.. I just wanted to check before I gave
incorrect info out.. thanks Shannon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18814 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
I would go ahead and add a heater. I had a small hex tank with a light
and the light really cranked up the heat during the day then the temp
would bottom out at night of course when the light was off. That kind
of temperature change is not at all good for fish.
I am going to buy a stealth 25 watt heater to keep the temp constantly
steady, you could do the same. MUCH healthier. =) As far as no heater
and what fish, I do not know. Hmmmm.
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@...
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 5:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] To Heat or Not to Heat



I've been reading from some of you that some fish need a heater, others
do
not, and still others don't do well with a fluxation of temperatures...

My 5 gallon hex tank has a light we turn on during the daytime while
we're
around and then off at night while we're sleeping or away from the
house. Is
a light at the top of such an aquarium considered a heater?

And if so, what fish would do well in the environment described above?

Boy, there's a lot of learn here to be a responsible fish owner!

- Nancy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18815 From: chris topher Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
hey ho..

how are you gonna keep the heat from crankin up during
the day?

fairly well insulated house so not a prob there...

white clouds make a great non heater fish and i think
are every bit as pretty as neons, without being so
fussy...

woody



--- Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:

> I would go ahead and add a heater. I had a small
> hex tank with a light
> and the light really cranked up the heat during the
> day then the temp
> would bottom out at night of course when the light
> was off. That kind
> of temperature change is not at all good for fish.
> I am going to buy a stealth 25 watt heater to keep
> the temp constantly
> steady, you could do the same. MUCH healthier. =)
> As far as no heater
> and what fish, I do not know. Hmmmm.
> Leslie
>
>
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@...
> Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 5:00 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] To Heat or Not to Heat
>
>
>
> I've been reading from some of you that some fish
> need a heater, others
> do
> not, and still others don't do well with a fluxation
> of temperatures...
>
> My 5 gallon hex tank has a light we turn on during
> the daytime while
> we're
> around and then off at night while we're sleeping or
> away from the
> house. Is
> a light at the top of such an aquarium considered a
> heater?
>
> And if so, what fish would do well in the
> environment described above?
>
> Boy, there's a lot of learn here to be a responsible
> fish owner!
>
> - Nancy
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18816 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
ok that info is very confusing I don't know what aquarisol is and I don't
have a bottle or I wouldn't be asking. im talking about the natural way to get
rid of ich by increasing the temperature and adding salt to the tank.. NO
MEDICINE HERE .. Shannon




Only for the time it says in directions if you use aquarisol it would tell
you how many days.

_agentscullyeyore@agentsc_ (mailto:agentscullyeyore@...) wrote: ok guys
I have a friend that has ich in their goldfish tank.. is it ok to do
the salt and heat method in that case.. I just wanted to check before I gave
incorrect info out.. thanks Shannon








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18817 From: snerticus Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: Purigen
Yes, I am curious too. I used to use Purigen years and years ago in
my saltwater tanks, and I remember having a heck of a time finding
the right bag to put it in. I wanted to get some again for my fresh
tanks, but I ran into the same problem.


Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <ant9009@...> wrote:
>
> Hello:
>
> I have been having problems finding media bags that can hold
purigen.
> Seachem has a bag that is 180 microns and I was wondering if anyone
has
> used this bag with purigen or if they have used anything other than
an
> old nylon stocking like I,m using now.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18818 From: chris topher Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
related question...

is there some reason ich medicine SHOULDN'T be used
with goldfish?

or just a personal preference?...

not familiar aquarisol either...

i use rid-ich at half the label dose...

woody

ps: thankfully havent had to use it in long time

--- agentscullyeyore@... wrote:

>
> ok that info is very confusing I don't know what
> aquarisol is and I don't
> have a bottle or I wouldn't be asking. im talking
> about the natural way to get
> rid of ich by increasing the temperature and adding
> salt to the tank.. NO
> MEDICINE HERE .. Shannon
>
>
>
>
> Only for the time it says in directions if you use
> aquarisol it would tell
> you how many days.
>
> _agentscullyeyore@agentsc_
> (mailto:agentscullyeyore@...) wrote: ok guys
> I have a friend that has ich in their goldfish
> tank.. is it ok to do
> the salt and heat method in that case.. I just
> wanted to check before I gave
> incorrect info out.. thanks Shannon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18819 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
well I don't really feel like getting into why or why not I just know that
this person wants to try and do the heat method so I was trying to get a
better opinion but seems a lot of the older members that used to be so very
helpful have left or something.. so if anyone has done this on goldfish before I
would love to hear if and how it worked.. thanks Shannon




related question...

is there some reason ich medicine SHOULDN'T be used
with goldfish?

or just a personal preference?.or

not familiar aquarisol either...

i use rid-ich at half the label dose...

woody








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18820 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
A lot of fish keepers prefer not to use chemicals when possible, and cure
ich with salt and increased temperature. That way you don't have to worry
about whether it will hurt the scaleless fish, or whether it will turn the
silicone blue, etc.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 6:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish




well I don't really feel like getting into why or why not I just know that
this person wants to try and do the heat method so I was trying to get a
better opinion but seems a lot of the older members that used to be so very
helpful have left or something.. so if anyone has done this on goldfish
before I
would love to hear if and how it worked.. thanks Shannon

related question...

is there some reason ich medicine SHOULDN'T be used
with goldfish?

or just a personal preference?.or

not familiar aquarisol either...

i use rid-ich at half the label dose...

woody

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18821 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Whether it will kill beneficial bacteria.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish



A lot of fish keepers prefer not to use chemicals when possible, and cure
ich with salt and increased temperature. That way you don't have to worry
about whether it will hurt the scaleless fish, or whether it will turn the
silicone blue, etc.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@ <mailto:agentscullyeyore%40aol.com> aol.com
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 6:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish

well I don't really feel like getting into why or why not I just know that
this person wants to try and do the heat method so I was trying to get a
better opinion but seems a lot of the older members that used to be so very
helpful have left or something.. so if anyone has done this on goldfish
before I
would love to hear if and how it worked.. thanks Shannon

related question...

is there some reason ich medicine SHOULDN'T be used
with goldfish?

or just a personal preference?.or

not familiar aquarisol either...

i use rid-ich at half the label dose...

woody

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18822 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
exactly... Shannon




A lot of fish keepers prefer not to use chemicals when possible, and cure
ich with salt and increased temperature. That way you don't have to worry
about whether it will hurt the scaleless fish, or whether it will turn the
silicone blue, etc.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18823 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Shannon, The heat and salt method of curing Ick is of course the
safest and at the same time is probably about the most effective or
at least as effective as using an Ick remedy. However,
unfortunately, a goldfish would be mighty uncomfortable at 86 o for
the approximately 10 days it might take to cure it. In the case of a
colder water fish, an Ick remedy is probably the best way to go,
combined with heat, but only enough as the fish will comfortably take
(78 o, maybe 80 o tops). In this case the heat won't act to kill or
prevent the Ick from regenerating itself, but it will somewhat speed
up its cycle exposing the free-swimming stage to the medication of
choice much sooner than at a colder temperature. If kept at 86 o,
for the duration of the treatment, its quite possible the goldfish
could expire. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
>
> well I don't really feel like getting into why or why not I just
know that
> this person wants to try and do the heat method so I was trying to
get a
> better opinion but seems a lot of the older members that used to be
so very
> helpful have left or something.. so if anyone has done this on
goldfish before I
> would love to hear if and how it worked.. thanks Shannon
>
>
>
>
> related question...
>
> is there some reason ich medicine SHOULDN'T be used
> with goldfish?
>
> or just a personal preference?.or
>
> not familiar aquarisol either...
>
> i use rid-ich at half the label dose...
>
> woody
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18824 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
oh there is my long lost friend ray.. who is always so helpful and polite..
just love you thanks so much ill relay to my friend immediately and good to
know for future needs as well.. thanks for always coming through im so glad I
asked.. Shannon




Shannon, The heat and salt method of curing Ick is of course the
safest and at the same time is probably about the most effective or
at least as effective as using an Ick remedy. However,
unfortunately, a goldfish would be mighty uncomfortable at 86 o for
the approximately 10 days it might take to cure it. In the case of a
colder water fish, an Ick remedy is probably the best way to go,
combined with heat, but only enough as the fish will comfortably take
(78 o, maybe 80 o tops). In this case the heat won't act to kill or
prevent the Ick from regenerating itself, but it will somewhat speed
up its cycle exposing the free-swimming stage to the medication of
choice much sooner than at a colder temperature. If kept at 86 o,
for the duration of the treatment, its quite possible the goldfish
could expire. Ray









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18825 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/15/2006
Subject: Re: Purigen
On its website, Seachem seems to match that bag up with Purigen (which I
have never used), so it is probably a good match. 'Course the nylon
stocking trick is probably a lot cheaper.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Andrew
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 4:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Purigen

Hello:

I have been having problems finding media bags that can hold purigen.
Seachem has a bag that is 180 microns and I was wondering if anyone has
used this bag with purigen or if they have used anything other than an
old nylon stocking like I,m using now.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18826 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
Nancy,

Different fish have different requirements and preferences. Some require
soft water, others hard, still others, somewhere in between. The fish we
keep can come from all over the world. Just as a stream in the Rocky
mountains can have a cool temperature, one flowing in southern Florida
can have a relatively warmer temperature. One fish mentioned in this
thread was the white cloud, coming from the White Cloud Mountain in
China, as I recall (discovered, apparently, by someone wit the name Tan,
hence the scientific genus Tanichthys--Tan's fish). They do best in a
cooler temperature. On the other hand, the neon, also mentioned, come
from streams and rivers in South America, where the water is warmer by
10 degrees or more.

The white cloud does well in an unheated tank in a cooler room. The neon
will generally need some form of heat to keep the temperature in the
tank more to it's liking. Given the right temperature, the coloration of
the white cloud is every bit as striking as that of the neon.

So, you need to know the fish you wish to keep, so you can provide them
with an environment to their liking.

You mention you have a 5 gallon tank. This is really not a good tank to
start with. Nor is the 10 gallon starter specials, good tanks either.
You need to get the largest tank you can afford and have room for. The
reason for this is that the larger the volume of water you have the less
rapid any change will be in it. This gives you room to make mistakes
(and mistakes you will make) and time to recover from that mistake.
However, you say you have a 5 gallon tank, so we need to deal with that.

You mention the tank has a light fixture, but you do not mention what
kind of light is in that fixture. Different lights will operate at
different temperatures. An incandescent lamp will throw off far more
heat than any fluorescent lamp, and different fluorescent lamps will
throw off different levels of heat. A 15 watt incandescent lamp can
throw enough heat to significantly raise the water temperature in a 5
gallon tank, where, if it were used over a 55 gallon tank, the
temperature would not budge. Even a small fluorescent will throw enough
heat to change the temperature of the water in that 5 gallon tank. As
long as the fluctuation of the temperature in tank is not more than a
few degrees, the fish should be able to handle it well. The idea that
fish need a steady temperature, while well meaning, simply does not fit
the facts of what the fish would normally face would it not be in an
aquarium. So, you can breathe a sigh of relief if your temperature is
only fluctuating by a few degrees. Fish may stand greater fluctuations
as well, but the greater the fluctuation, the greater your chances are
of running into a problem.

If you are keeping fish that will require a temperature higher than the
normal room temperature you maintain, then you will need to get a
thermostatically controlled heater. 25 watts is the smallest you can
normally find, though they are made in smaller wattages. Keep in mind
that a 25 watt heater can easily overheat your tank, should something go
wrong with it, which is not common, but happens, nevertheless. So keep
your eye on the temperature.

When planning a tank, what I will do is to determine the temperature
range each fish I plan to put into the tank, then set the temperature of
the tank at a level that will suit all the fish. Some may be at the high
end of their range and others at the low end, but the temperature is one
that all can live well with. You can do your research online, but I find
it easier to do the initial search in books and other publications, then
finish off with an online search to determine the latest (one hopes)
information on the fish. (OK, call me an old fogy--I have been around
for a while, but I do network administration as a title, but a lot of
other stuff dealing with IT, computers and their foibles.)

For the fish you can keep in such a tank, you are fairly limited to a
few of the smaller fish, such as those mentioned elsewhere in this
thread, but don't forget others, like some of the rasboras, danios,
smaller gouramis, livebearers (not so fancy guppies do well in an
unheated tank--the fancier they are, the more fragile they become). A
lot of people keep killies in small tanks such as yours--very colorful
fish, but hard to come by on a retail level. Not for the beginner, but
an interesting fish for a small tank are the various _Badis_ species, so
hang on to that tank as you graduate to larger tanks.

Also get yourself a good book. If you are only going to have one book,
I'd recommend the _Baensch Aquarium Atlas_ as your volume. A very
thorough, if condensed guide to keeping fish and plants, and heavy on
the pictures and requirements of fish and plants. Volume one is the one
you want, there being 4 freshwater volumes and a couple of marine
volumes.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@...
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 6:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] To Heat or Not to Heat

I've been reading from some of you that some fish need a heater, others
do
not, and still others don't do well with a fluxation of temperatures...

My 5 gallon hex tank has a light we turn on during the daytime while
we're
around and then off at night while we're sleeping or away from the
house. Is
a light at the top of such an aquarium considered a heater?

And if so, what fish would do well in the environment described above?


Boy, there's a lot of learn here to be a responsible fish owner!

- Nancy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18827 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish
Some of the older guys actually work for a living and at lest one of them has been working 12-16 hours a day at his. Just follow the usual salt and heat recommendations, but keep an eye on the fish. Once the temperature gets into the upper 70's, the goldfish may start having problems due to a lack of dissolved oxygen. A lower temperature just means the treatment time lengthens, since the life cycle of ich is not sped up as much at 78° F., the lifecycle is probably increased by a couple of days.

To help the fish, increase the aeration in the tank at the higher temperatures.

Be sure it is ich, and not tubercles growing on the operculum and head region of the males because they were somehow tricked into thinking it was spring and time to breed.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 11:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] getting rid of ich through heat with goldfish

ok guys I have a friend that has ich in their goldfish tank.. is it ok to do
the salt and heat method in that case.. I just wanted to check before I gave
incorrect info out.. thanks Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18828 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: taking pics
Hi, just set up my tank , everything is going good. I was wondering if
anyone has some pointers on good fish photography...rick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18829 From: Avin Deen Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Aquarists in Penang/Malaysia
Hi Aquatic Life
Greetings from Avin, Penang! Is there any online community you may be aware of for Aquarists from Penang/Malaysia? I have just got a 48 X 18 X 18 inch tank and hope to set up an Angel Tank. Would apprecaite any info or suggestions.

Best regards

Avin



http://groups.yahoo.com/group/indianparakeets/

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18830 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
"The idea that fish need a steady temperature, while well meaning,
simply does not fit
the facts of what the fish would normally face would it not be in an
aquarium. "

Even though most fish today are captive bred and acclimated to certain
conditions & temperatures? I mean, everyone keeps talking about you
don't have to keep Discus or angels at 6.6 pH since so many are now bred
into pH ranges from 7.0+. Why would it be any different regarding
temperature?
You keep them at what they have grown in, no?
Every time someone (particularly myself) mentions trying to get fish
into their most natural conditions, they are bombarded with answers
claiming that the fish can take higher pH since they have been bred into
that and that we need not so much concern ourselves about what the fish
would do would it not be in an aquarium but rather what it is accustomed
to now.
I'm just curious as to why temperature would not hold to that same
process.

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 8:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] To Heat or Not to Heat



Nancy,

Different fish have different requirements and preferences. Some require
soft water, others hard, still others, somewhere in between. The fish we
keep can come from all over the world. Just as a stream in the Rocky
mountains can have a cool temperature, one flowing in southern Florida
can have a relatively warmer temperature. One fish mentioned in this
thread was the white cloud, coming from the White Cloud Mountain in
China, as I recall (discovered, apparently, by someone wit the name Tan,
hence the scientific genus Tanichthys--Tan's fish). They do best in a
cooler temperature. On the other hand, the neon, also mentioned, come
from streams and rivers in South America, where the water is warmer by
10 degrees or more.

The white cloud does well in an unheated tank in a cooler room. The neon
will generally need some form of heat to keep the temperature in the
tank more to it's liking. Given the right temperature, the coloration of
the white cloud is every bit as striking as that of the neon.

So, you need to know the fish you wish to keep, so you can provide them
with an environment to their liking.

You mention you have a 5 gallon tank. This is really not a good tank to
start with. Nor is the 10 gallon starter specials, good tanks either.
You need to get the largest tank you can afford and have room for. The
reason for this is that the larger the volume of water you have the less
rapid any change will be in it. This gives you room to make mistakes
(and mistakes you will make) and time to recover from that mistake.
However, you say you have a 5 gallon tank, so we need to deal with that.

You mention the tank has a light fixture, but you do not mention what
kind of light is in that fixture. Different lights will operate at
different temperatures. An incandescent lamp will throw off far more
heat than any fluorescent lamp, and different fluorescent lamps will
throw off different levels of heat. A 15 watt incandescent lamp can
throw enough heat to significantly raise the water temperature in a 5
gallon tank, where, if it were used over a 55 gallon tank, the
temperature would not budge. Even a small fluorescent will throw enough
heat to change the temperature of the water in that 5 gallon tank. As
long as the fluctuation of the temperature in tank is not more than a
few degrees, the fish should be able to handle it well. The idea that
fish need a steady temperature, while well meaning, simply does not fit
the facts of what the fish would normally face would it not be in an
aquarium. So, you can breathe a sigh of relief if your temperature is
only fluctuating by a few degrees. Fish may stand greater fluctuations
as well, but the greater the fluctuation, the greater your chances are
of running into a problem.

If you are keeping fish that will require a temperature higher than the
normal room temperature you maintain, then you will need to get a
thermostatically controlled heater. 25 watts is the smallest you can
normally find, though they are made in smaller wattages. Keep in mind
that a 25 watt heater can easily overheat your tank, should something go
wrong with it, which is not common, but happens, nevertheless. So keep
your eye on the temperature.

When planning a tank, what I will do is to determine the temperature
range each fish I plan to put into the tank, then set the temperature of
the tank at a level that will suit all the fish. Some may be at the high
end of their range and others at the low end, but the temperature is one
that all can live well with. You can do your research online, but I find
it easier to do the initial search in books and other publications, then
finish off with an online search to determine the latest (one hopes)
information on the fish. (OK, call me an old fogy--I have been around
for a while, but I do network administration as a title, but a lot of
other stuff dealing with IT, computers and their foibles.)

For the fish you can keep in such a tank, you are fairly limited to a
few of the smaller fish, such as those mentioned elsewhere in this
thread, but don't forget others, like some of the rasboras, danios,
smaller gouramis, livebearers (not so fancy guppies do well in an
unheated tank--the fancier they are, the more fragile they become). A
lot of people keep killies in small tanks such as yours--very colorful
fish, but hard to come by on a retail level. Not for the beginner, but
an interesting fish for a small tank are the various _Badis_ species, so
hang on to that tank as you graduate to larger tanks.

Also get yourself a good book. If you are only going to have one book,
I'd recommend the _Baensch Aquarium Atlas_ as your volume. A very
thorough, if condensed guide to keeping fish and plants, and heavy on
the pictures and requirements of fish and plants. Volume one is the one
you want, there being 4 freshwater volumes and a couple of marine
volumes.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com> aol.com
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 6:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] To Heat or Not to Heat

I've been reading from some of you that some fish need a heater, others
do
not, and still others don't do well with a fluxation of temperatures...

My 5 gallon hex tank has a light we turn on during the daytime while
we're
around and then off at night while we're sleeping or away from the
house. Is
a light at the top of such an aquarium considered a heater?

And if so, what fish would do well in the environment described above?

Boy, there's a lot of learn here to be a responsible fish owner!

- Nancy






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18831 From: aclaar877 Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: taking pics
If you have multiple lights on your tank, try experimenting with
different bulbs on and off. What looks best to you watching your
fish might not translate best to film. My planted tanks look best
without all of the strong compact fluorescent lights on. One trick
I've discovered is that red plants look redder under dimmer bulbs
that are heavy in the blue spectrum.

If you have a digital camera like I do, try a picture with the
different settings to see what you like best. On mine, I like to
leave some lights in the room on so that the tank isn't super-bright
against a completely dark wall. I don't want the tank so bright it
looks washed-out.

Also don't take pictures head-on to the aquarium with a flash, since
it will reflect back at you. Take it at an angle.

Some fish look different based on angles, too. The colors on
glowlight and neon tetras look better when viewing from above, and
the stripe on a cardinal tetra looks greener from above, but more
blue when viewed from below.

Andy

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "chicagobears2010"
<chicagobears2010@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, just set up my tank , everything is going good. I was
wondering if
> anyone has some pointers on good fish photography...rick
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18832 From: sunshine_141_1999 Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: OSCURS AND MORGRUNDA GOBY
YES CAN YOU TELL ME IF A OSCUR AND A MORGRUNDA GOBY CICHLIDS WOULD GET
ALONG OK? ALSO ANYTHING YOU CAN TELL ME ABOUT THE MORGRUNDA GOBY
CICHLID FISH WOULD GREATLY BE APPRECIATED. THANKS AGAIN. SUNSHINE1064
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18833 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: To Heat or Not to Heat
Leslie,

First, you would be surprised at the number of fish that are still coming in from the wild. While it is true that there are many fish that are farmed, even many common species are wild caught. It is also true that a number of fish have been acclimated to water of different characteristics than were they are found in the wild. You specifically mention discus. Get yourself some. Put them in a water with 7+ pH and some hardness and see how they do. Then start lowering the pH and hardness, and I think you will see an improvement in your fish. The truth is that many fish can live in water where the hardness and/or pH are much different from the wild. The problem is that while they can live, they will not thrive. And, therein lies the difference. You do not want your fish to simply live, you want them to thrive.

Now, concerning temperature. Like pH has an effect on the toxicity of ammonia, temperature has an effect on the amount of Dissolved Oxygen (DO). The higher the temperature, the less DO is available for the fish. While they can adjust to other water parameters, if there is not enough oxygen, they will die. The same would happen to you, if the oxygen content of the atmosphere was reduced below a certain point.

There is also a certain innate metabolism rate. This is temperature sensitive, since fish are cold blooded creatures. This being the case, the metabolism will slow at cooler temperatures and increase at higher temperatures. Over the generations of creating a species for its niche in nature, a certain range has been set at which the fish does well. Much cooler and you get an imitation of the freezer method of euthanizing a fish, where the metabolism slows until it is no longer. Raising the temperature will increase the rate of metabolism. Raising the temperature decreases the DO. As the metabolism rises, more oxygen is needed, and when the fish cannot get enough, the fish will have a problem that may end in death.

Of course, having now said that, I have netted fish out of 50° F water, where they could be expected to be dead, since all the books list them as fish happiest in the mid 70's with a range of 72 to 82 degrees. I would have expected them to be slow, as well, but they were not. Thus goes the exception to every rule rule.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 1:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] To Heat or Not to Heat

"The idea that fish need a steady temperature, while well meaning,
simply does not fit
the facts of what the fish would normally face would it not be in an
aquarium. "

Even though most fish today are captive bred and acclimated to certain
conditions & temperatures? I mean, everyone keeps talking about you
don't have to keep Discus or angels at 6.6 pH since so many are now bred
into pH ranges from 7.0+. Why would it be any different regarding
temperature?
You keep them at what they have grown in, no?
Every time someone (particularly myself) mentions trying to get fish
into their most natural conditions, they are bombarded with answers
claiming that the fish can take higher pH since they have been bred into
that and that we need not so much concern ourselves about what the fish
would do would it not be in an aquarium but rather what it is accustomed
to now.
I'm just curious as to why temperature would not hold to that same
process.

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 8:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] To Heat or Not to Heat



Nancy,

Different fish have different requirements and preferences. Some require
soft water, others hard, still others, somewhere in between. The fish we
keep can come from all over the world. Just as a stream in the Rocky
mountains can have a cool temperature, one flowing in southern Florida
can have a relatively warmer temperature. One fish mentioned in this
thread was the white cloud, coming from the White Cloud Mountain in
China, as I recall (discovered, apparently, by someone wit the name Tan,
hence the scientific genus Tanichthys--Tan's fish). They do best in a
cooler temperature. On the other hand, the neon, also mentioned, come
from streams and rivers in South America, where the water is warmer by
10 degrees or more.

The white cloud does well in an unheated tank in a cooler room. The neon
will generally need some form of heat to keep the temperature in the
tank more to it's liking. Given the right temperature, the coloration of
the white cloud is every bit as striking as that of the neon.

So, you need to know the fish you wish to keep, so you can provide them
with an environment to their liking.

You mention you have a 5 gallon tank. This is really not a good tank to
start with. Nor is the 10 gallon starter specials, good tanks either.
You need to get the largest tank you can afford and have room for. The
reason for this is that the larger the volume of water you have the less
rapid any change will be in it. This gives you room to make mistakes
(and mistakes you will make) and time to recover from that mistake.
However, you say you have a 5 gallon tank, so we need to deal with that.

You mention the tank has a light fixture, but you do not mention what
kind of light is in that fixture. Different lights will operate at
different temperatures. An incandescent lamp will throw off far more
heat than any fluorescent lamp, and different fluorescent lamps will
throw off different levels of heat. A 15 watt incandescent lamp can
throw enough heat to significantly raise the water temperature in a 5
gallon tank, where, if it were used over a 55 gallon tank, the
temperature would not budge. Even a small fluorescent will throw enough
heat to change the temperature of the water in that 5 gallon tank. As
long as the fluctuation of the temperature in tank is not more than a
few degrees, the fish should be able to handle it well. The idea that
fish need a steady temperature, while well meaning, simply does not fit
the facts of what the fish would normally face would it not be in an
aquarium. So, you can breathe a sigh of relief if your temperature is
only fluctuating by a few degrees. Fish may stand greater fluctuations
as well, but the greater the fluctuation, the greater your chances are
of running into a problem.

If you are keeping fish that will require a temperature higher than the
normal room temperature you maintain, then you will need to get a
thermostatically controlled heater. 25 watts is the smallest you can
normally find, though they are made in smaller wattages. Keep in mind
that a 25 watt heater can easily overheat your tank, should something go
wrong with it, which is not common, but happens, nevertheless. So keep
your eye on the temperature.

When planning a tank, what I will do is to determine the temperature
range each fish I plan to put into the tank, then set the temperature of
the tank at a level that will suit all the fish. Some may be at the high
end of their range and others at the low end, but the temperature is one
that all can live well with. You can do your research online, but I find
it easier to do the initial search in books and other publications, then
finish off with an online search to determine the latest (one hopes)
information on the fish. (OK, call me an old fogy--I have been around
for a while, but I do network administration as a title, but a lot of
other stuff dealing with IT, computers and their foibles.)

For the fish you can keep in such a tank, you are fairly limited to a
few of the smaller fish, such as those mentioned elsewhere in this
thread, but don't forget others, like some of the rasboras, danios,
smaller gouramis, livebearers (not so fancy guppies do well in an
unheated tank--the fancier they are, the more fragile they become). A
lot of people keep killies in small tanks such as yours--very colorful
fish, but hard to come by on a retail level. Not for the beginner, but
an interesting fish for a small tank are the various _Badis_ species, so
hang on to that tank as you graduate to larger tanks.

Also get yourself a good book. If you are only going to have one book,
I'd recommend the _Baensch Aquarium Atlas_ as your volume. A very
thorough, if condensed guide to keeping fish and plants, and heavy on
the pictures and requirements of fish and plants. Volume one is the one
you want, there being 4 freshwater volumes and a couple of marine
volumes.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NancyTroyer@ <mailto:NancyTroyer%40aol.com> aol.com
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 6:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] To Heat or Not to Heat

I've been reading from some of you that some fish need a heater, others
do
not, and still others don't do well with a fluxation of temperatures...

My 5 gallon hex tank has a light we turn on during the daytime while
we're
around and then off at night while we're sleeping or away from the
house. Is
a light at the top of such an aquarium considered a heater?

And if so, what fish would do well in the environment described above?

Boy, there's a lot of learn here to be a responsible fish owner!

- Nancy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18834 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2006
Subject: Re: taking pics
Look up message #13061 in this group (saves me from having to retype it
<g>). Also do a search of the archives, and you will find more than a
few messages about photography of tanks and fish. Try some variations
such as photo as well.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chicagobears2010
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 10:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] taking pics

Hi, just set up my tank , everything is going good. I was wondering if
anyone has some pointers on good fish photography...rick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18835 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Tiger Nerite Snail (Neritina natalensis)
Anyone know of a source for these in the US? I found them in a UK shop, but
they will not ship to the US. Arizona Aquatic Gardens and Doc Fosters have
the Olive Nerites, but cannot find a US source for the Tigers.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18836 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Betta's caudrin (sic) fin
Hi:

I am new to the fish world. My fairly new betta (he's been with me
about 3 weeks now) spans out the fin underneath his head whenever I
get close. Is he afraid of me, trying to establish dominance? I
haven't a clue as to what he is doing and don't want to scare him.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18837 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Nerite Snail (Neritina natalensis)
I found a Nerite sp on www.aquacon.com I dont know if its what you are looking for.

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote: Anyone know of a source for these in the US? I found them in a UK shop, but
they will not ship to the US. Arizona Aquatic Gardens and Doc Fosters have
the Olive Nerites, but cannot find a US source for the Tigers.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18838 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Betta's caudrin (sic) fin
Betts do that all the time. It is dominance and a mating ritual. put a mirror by the tank and see what he does lol. Its ok it dont hurt him it just gives him some excitement in life.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Hi:

I am new to the fish world. My fairly new betta (he's been with me
about 3 weeks now) spans out the fin underneath his head whenever I
get close. Is he afraid of me, trying to establish dominance? I
haven't a clue as to what he is doing and don't want to scare him.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18839 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Nerite Snail (Neritina natalensis)
The ones on www.aquacon.com <http://www.aquacon.com/> are marine. The
Neritina natalensis is freshwater (although it requires brackish to
reproduce). Thanks for trying!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 1:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Tiger Nerite Snail (Neritina natalensis)



I found a Nerite sp on www.aquacon.com I dont know if its what you are
looking for.

Donna Ransome <djransome@optonline <mailto:djransome%40optonline.net> .net>
wrote: Anyone know of a source for these in the US? I found them in a UK
shop, but
they will not ship to the US. Arizona Aquatic Gardens and Doc Fosters have
the Olive Nerites, but cannot find a US source for the Tigers.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small
Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18840 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Hexamita? Ulcers?
The gourami I mentioned a while back now has white ulcer type places all
over his body. Some are puffed up w/ white rings while others are
round, flat and white and slimy looking.
Should I treat these as ulcers? Could it be hexamita? His breathing
also seems labored. WHAT in the world causes this?

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18841 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Betta's caudrin (sic) fin
Bettas will display for a number of reasons. Aggression certainly is one.
However, what he is doing is probably recognizing you as a food source. He
probably will do this for anyone coming near his home, though it is not
unknown that some fish will recognize individuals.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 1:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Betta's caudrin (sic) fin

Hi:

I am new to the fish world. My fairly new betta (he's been with me
about 3 weeks now) spans out the fin underneath his head whenever I
get close. Is he afraid of me, trying to establish dominance? I
haven't a clue as to what he is doing and don't want to scare him.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18842 From: Jaclyn Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Hello everyone.

I need some help on what to do with my Betta. I went away for the
weekend and when I came back I found my betta looking pregnant. This
would be fine if it was any other fish but well its a male crowntail
betta. I am thinking he may be consitipated but I am not sure. If he
is I am unsure what to do for him. He lives in a one gallon tank with
a filter. I do weekly water changes and treat the water with stress
coat and a few pellets of aquarium salt. He is fed 2 pellets every
other day. I have had him since May. He is still very active and
swimming around but looks extremely pregnant. Anyone have any ideas on
how I can help him out?

Thanks in advance,

Jaclyn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18843 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Spiralina flakes would help with the constipation. Now look at his scales if they are raised its not constipation. Its a bacterial infection. Try Maracyn Plus about ten drops.

Jaclyn <frog_princes@...> wrote: Hello everyone.

I need some help on what to do with my Betta. I went away for the
weekend and when I came back I found my betta looking pregnant. This
would be fine if it was any other fish but well its a male crowntail
betta. I am thinking he may be consitipated but I am not sure. If he
is I am unsure what to do for him. He lives in a one gallon tank with
a filter. I do weekly water changes and treat the water with stress
coat and a few pellets of aquarium salt. He is fed 2 pellets every
other day. I have had him since May. He is still very active and
swimming around but looks extremely pregnant. Anyone have any ideas on
how I can help him out?

Thanks in advance,

Jaclyn






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18844 From: Jaclyn Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
His scales are dont appear to be raised, just a little streched out
As i sit here and examine him he is getting very excited and is
coming up to the surface for me. I was thinking it might be bloat so
I am going to dose him with Maracyn-Two. I am also going to look
into getting Spiralina flakes for him as well as the Maracyn Plus
drops. I just had some left over meds for my frogs. My betta is one
of my 3 fish other then that I own 9 ACF's. In the meanwhile I have
shrimp brine I could use to loosen him up.

Jaclyn


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> Spiralina flakes would help with the constipation. Now look at his
scales if they are raised its not constipation. Its a bacterial
infection. Try Maracyn Plus about ten drops.
>
> Jaclyn <frog_princes@...> wrote: Hello everyone.
>
> I need some help on what to do with my Betta. I went away for the
> weekend and when I came back I found my betta looking pregnant.
This
> would be fine if it was any other fish but well its a male
crowntail
> betta. I am thinking he may be consitipated but I am not sure. If
he
> is I am unsure what to do for him. He lives in a one gallon tank
with
> a filter. I do weekly water changes and treat the water with
stress
> coat and a few pellets of aquarium salt. He is fed 2 pellets every
> other day. I have had him since May. He is still very active and
> swimming around but looks extremely pregnant. Anyone have any
ideas on
> how I can help him out?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jaclyn
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18845 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/17/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
http://www.fishtanksandponds.net/care-maintenance/health/dropsy.htm
does his scales look like this?

Jaclyn <frog_princes@...> wrote:
His scales are dont appear to be raised, just a little streched out
As i sit here and examine him he is getting very excited and is
coming up to the surface for me. I was thinking it might be bloat so
I am going to dose him with Maracyn-Two. I am also going to look
into getting Spiralina flakes for him as well as the Maracyn Plus
drops. I just had some left over meds for my frogs. My betta is one
of my 3 fish other then that I own 9 ACF's. In the meanwhile I have
shrimp brine I could use to loosen him up.

Jaclyn

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> Spiralina flakes would help with the constipation. Now look at his
scales if they are raised its not constipation. Its a bacterial
infection. Try Maracyn Plus about ten drops.
>
> Jaclyn <frog_princes@...> wrote: Hello everyone.
>
> I need some help on what to do with my Betta. I went away for the
> weekend and when I came back I found my betta looking pregnant.
This
> would be fine if it was any other fish but well its a male
crowntail
> betta. I am thinking he may be consitipated but I am not sure. If
he
> is I am unsure what to do for him. He lives in a one gallon tank
with
> a filter. I do weekly water changes and treat the water with
stress
> coat and a few pellets of aquarium salt. He is fed 2 pellets every
> other day. I have had him since May. He is still very active and
> swimming around but looks extremely pregnant. Anyone have any
ideas on
> how I can help him out?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jaclyn
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18846 From: Jaclyn Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
He does look like that. Only mine is even more bloated looking. Mine
looks pregnant if you didnt know any better. In the morning I will
have to try and take some pics. Whatever happend to him it took over
fast. I left for work on friday am and returned early evening on
sunday and before I left he was fine and now he is just bloated. I
will see if treatment work.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> http://www.fishtanksandponds.net/care-maintenance/health/dropsy.htm
> does his scales look like this?
>
> Jaclyn <frog_princes@...> wrote:
> His scales are dont appear to be raised, just a little
streched out
> As i sit here and examine him he is getting very excited and is
> coming up to the surface for me. I was thinking it might be bloat
so
> I am going to dose him with Maracyn-Two. I am also going to look
> into getting Spiralina flakes for him as well as the Maracyn Plus
> drops. I just had some left over meds for my frogs. My betta is
one
> of my 3 fish other then that I own 9 ACF's. In the meanwhile I
have
> shrimp brine I could use to loosen him up.
>
> Jaclyn
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Spiralina flakes would help with the constipation. Now look at
his
> scales if they are raised its not constipation. Its a bacterial
> infection. Try Maracyn Plus about ten drops.
> >
> > Jaclyn <frog_princes@> wrote: Hello everyone.
> >
> > I need some help on what to do with my Betta. I went away for
the
> > weekend and when I came back I found my betta looking pregnant.
> This
> > would be fine if it was any other fish but well its a male
> crowntail
> > betta. I am thinking he may be consitipated but I am not sure.
If
> he
> > is I am unsure what to do for him. He lives in a one gallon tank
> with
> > a filter. I do weekly water changes and treat the water with
> stress
> > coat and a few pellets of aquarium salt. He is fed 2 pellets
every
> > other day. I have had him since May. He is still very active and
> > swimming around but looks extremely pregnant. Anyone have any
> ideas on
> > how I can help him out?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Jaclyn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18847 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Could be constipated. Was he fed while you were gone? IF so, withhold
food for two or three days, and put a teaspoon of epsom salts into
clean water for him...and you might even take a seperate quart of water
with a teaspon of epsom salts and give him the occasional 'bath' in it.

When you start to feed him again, try daphia, or a frozen thawed pea


>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18848 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Betta's caudrin (sic) fin
Heh...some bettas flare at everything. Some bettas flare for food, as
their owners will only feed them when they flare. If he's swimming at
you he's not scared :)

> Hi:
>
> I am new to the fish world. My fairly new betta (he's been with me
> about 3 weeks now) spans out the fin underneath his head whenever I
> get close. Is he afraid of me, trying to establish dominance? I
> haven't a clue as to what he is doing and don't want to scare him.
>
> Thanks.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18849 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Betta's caudrin (sic) fin
I actually like to think it's an endearing flare. He looks amorously
when doing it.

Thanks everyone for your help with this.

Healing thoughts go out to the sick betta.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it



At 09:47 AM 9/18/2006, you wrote:

>Heh...some bettas flare at everything. Some bettas flare for food, as
>their owners will only feed them when they flare. If he's swimming at
>you he's not scared :)
>
> > Hi:
> >
> > I am new to the fish world. My fairly new betta (he's been with me
> > about 3 weeks now) spans out the fin underneath his head whenever I
> > get close. Is he afraid of me, trying to establish dominance? I
> > haven't a clue as to what he is doing and don't want to scare him.
> >
> > Thanks.
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18850 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Well did you read the treatment on that disease? I would try Maracyn two.

Jaclyn <frog_princes@...> wrote: He does look like that. Only mine is even more bloated looking. Mine
looks pregnant if you didnt know any better. In the morning I will
have to try and take some pics. Whatever happend to him it took over
fast. I left for work on friday am and returned early evening on
sunday and before I left he was fine and now he is just bloated. I
will see if treatment work.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> http://www.fishtanksandponds.net/care-maintenance/health/dropsy.htm
> does his scales look like this?
>
> Jaclyn <frog_princes@...> wrote:
> His scales are dont appear to be raised, just a little
streched out
> As i sit here and examine him he is getting very excited and is
> coming up to the surface for me. I was thinking it might be bloat
so
> I am going to dose him with Maracyn-Two. I am also going to look
> into getting Spiralina flakes for him as well as the Maracyn Plus
> drops. I just had some left over meds for my frogs. My betta is
one
> of my 3 fish other then that I own 9 ACF's. In the meanwhile I
have
> shrimp brine I could use to loosen him up.
>
> Jaclyn
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Spiralina flakes would help with the constipation. Now look at
his
> scales if they are raised its not constipation. Its a bacterial
> infection. Try Maracyn Plus about ten drops.
> >
> > Jaclyn <frog_princes@> wrote: Hello everyone.
> >
> > I need some help on what to do with my Betta. I went away for
the
> > weekend and when I came back I found my betta looking pregnant.
> This
> > would be fine if it was any other fish but well its a male
> crowntail
> > betta. I am thinking he may be consitipated but I am not sure.
If
> he
> > is I am unsure what to do for him. He lives in a one gallon tank
> with
> > a filter. I do weekly water changes and treat the water with
> stress
> > coat and a few pellets of aquarium salt. He is fed 2 pellets
every
> > other day. I have had him since May. He is still very active and
> > swimming around but looks extremely pregnant. Anyone have any
> ideas on
> > how I can help him out?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Jaclyn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18851 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Betta - - Need Help!
Peas actually help with constipation. Just peel off the skin.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18852 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: mollies and guppies
Hi,
Has anyone successfully kept mollies and fancy guppies together in an acquarium?

Thanks,
Mel


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18853 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: mollies and guppies
depends on what you mean by successfully. WE had a pair of fancy
guppies and a pair of mollies in a tank together. Within a year we had
three tanks full of them and had to end up getting rid of all of them.
we have one lone guppy left at the moment, who kept hiding when we
tried to catch them. We had to get a couple of angelfish to keep their
numbers under control
\
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18854 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: mollies and guppies
I am wondering the same thing myself.... for almost 2 yrs I have been keeping live bearers,corries, and ghost catfish. The Mollies and the Platys are doing great! But for some strange reason the guppies just keep disappearing.
**********************************************
MM & MP, '73
Tricia, KG6PNC

A couple of sites for fun

http://www.neopets.com/refer.phtml?username=trycya

http://www.gopetslive.com/inviter/?Trycya


----- Original Message -----
From: Mel Bowman
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 11:10 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] mollies and guppies


Hi,
Has anyone successfully kept mollies and fancy guppies together in an acquarium?

Thanks,
Mel


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18855 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: hmmmm
I was wondering if anyone on the list has kept bluegill, and if so, what requirements are needed for these for an aquarium? I have read of people keeping them with kissing gouramis and oscars, so am assuming that temp wise is the same as with tropicals. Have read that they are messy when they get older, no biggy as I over filter anyway. Have read that they are pretty hardy too, but have not found any specifics on them. This looks like it would one of the easier native fish to try to keep.

Since people have kept them with Oscars and Gouramis, that does give me a basis as for water. But, among the things I'm trying to find out is how big do they get and how fast do they get there. i.e. do they go from being tiny to full grown in a year or two like a pleco or do they take a few years to gain any real size like clown loaches. What is their temperment like? Can I have them with fish other than oscars and the like? etc. etc. etc. :)

Thanks in advance for your replies.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18856 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: mollies and guppies
Well mollies can be semi aggresive. How big is your tank and is it well planted with live plants?

Mel Bowman <swismiself@...> wrote: Hi,
Has anyone successfully kept mollies and fancy guppies together in an acquarium?

Thanks,
Mel


---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18857 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: hmmmm
http://www.dnr.state.oh.us/wildlife/Fishing/aquanotes-fishid/bluegill.htm
I hope this helps.

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote:
I was wondering if anyone on the list has kept bluegill, and if so, what requirements are needed for these for an aquarium? I have read of people keeping them with kissing gouramis and oscars, so am assuming that temp wise is the same as with tropicals. Have read that they are messy when they get older, no biggy as I over filter anyway. Have read that they are pretty hardy too, but have not found any specifics on them. This looks like it would one of the easier native fish to try to keep.

Since people have kept them with Oscars and Gouramis, that does give me a basis as for water. But, among the things I'm trying to find out is how big do they get and how fast do they get there. i.e. do they go from being tiny to full grown in a year or two like a pleco or do they take a few years to gain any real size like clown loaches. What is their temperment like? Can I have them with fish other than oscars and the like? etc. etc. etc. :)

Thanks in advance for your replies.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18858 From: Betty Lou Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Pregnant Guppy - When to Quarentine
I have a new blue female who seems to meet the criteria (round dark
belly), especially when compared to my orange female who I've had for
some time now. I found that gestation is 28 days, but how long after
you see the darkening do you wait to put her in her spawning area? I
read somewhere of people who can look at them and tell when, but this
is the first batch I have tried to save, and I have NO clue what the
signs are, nor do I have hours on end each day to check in on them!
Since I'm sure she was "hit" before I got her, would it be cruel to
separate her now?

After I raise a batch, what do I do with them? Do you take them to
the pet store - do you barter, sell or give them away? I'd like to
have a few more for a new tank but probably not a whole batch and I
read they average 30 or so, but some have had as many as 200 (YIKES!)
I know people sell them and ship them, but I don't want to fuss with
live shipments - my luck is they would all be DOA.

Thanks everyone!

Betty Lou Kline
Your Quiet Retreat
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18859 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: hmmmm
Check with your state's Fish and Wildlife before you get too far along. They can be considered as game fish and therefore illegal to keep alive.

Bearing that in mind, blue gills will need a cooler water than oscars and gouramis, and do need a higher DO level than those fish. I do not think that any other parameters are real important, judging from places I have seen them in nature.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 3:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] hmmmm

I was wondering if anyone on the list has kept bluegill, and if so, what requirements are needed for these for an aquarium? I have read of people keeping them with kissing gouramis and oscars, so am assuming that temp wise is the same as with tropicals. Have read that they are messy when they get older, no biggy as I over filter anyway. Have read that they are pretty hardy too, but have not found any specifics on them. This looks like it would one of the easier native fish to try to keep.

Since people have kept them with Oscars and Gouramis, that does give me a basis as for water. But, among the things I'm trying to find out is how big do they get and how fast do they get there. i.e. do they go from being tiny to full grown in a year or two like a pleco or do they take a few years to gain any real size like clown loaches. What is their temperment like? Can I have them with fish other than oscars and the like? etc. etc. etc. :)

Thanks in advance for your replies.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18860 From: harry perry Date: 9/18/2006
Subject: Re: hmmmm I agree with Steve.
As a fisherman and someone who keeps tropical fish, Bluegills are cold water fish. Before any native species is kept you need to check your state 's fish commission rules. A simple phone call will do. In some instances, a fish collection trip, while innocent enough, could end up a nightmare by collecting an endangered species. Some minnows in North America are on this list. A game warden stops to see what your doing and it's downhill from there.

The owner of UniQuaria, I believe, collects native fish. If you are a member you might ask him.

Harry

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Check with your state's Fish and Wildlife before you get too far along. They can be considered as game fish and therefore illegal to keep alive.

Bearing that in mind, blue gills will need a cooler water than oscars and gouramis, and do need a higher DO level than those fish. I do not think that any other parameters are real important, judging from places I have seen them in nature.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 3:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] hmmmm

I was wondering if anyone on the list has kept bluegill, and if so, what requirements are needed for these for an aquarium? I have read of people keeping them with kissing gouramis and oscars, so am assuming that temp wise is the same as with tropicals. Have read that they are messy when they get older, no biggy as I over filter anyway. Have read that they are pretty hardy too, but have not found any specifics on them. This looks like it would one of the easier native fish to try to keep.

Since people have kept them with Oscars and Gouramis, that does give me a basis as for water. But, among the things I'm trying to find out is how big do they get and how fast do they get there. i.e. do they go from being tiny to full grown in a year or two like a pleco or do they take a few years to gain any real size like clown loaches. What is their temperment like? Can I have them with fish other than oscars and the like? etc. etc. etc. :)

Thanks in advance for your replies.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18861 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: mollies and guppies - updated info for your consideration
My tank is a 38 gallon long. Three of the mollies are adults and the rest are baby mollies about 3/4in long. I also have the angelicus loach and the rubbernose pleco, and a gold gourami. Re the gourami...my husband wanted it, and so far it's being a good tank mate...it gets harassed a tiny bit by the two adult female mollies, but I've had him 2 weeks and no sign of brusing or fin breakage. The loach and pleco generall mind their own business unless one of the baby mollies gets too curious. I've yet to see either animal actually hurt a molly.

We're building a new stand for the tank, so when we go to move it we'll have to drain the tank. What has worked well in the past was to drain most of the water into a clean bin, put the fish in there with the heater and my biowheel filter, then drain the rest of the tank, get it moved, and then fill half with old water and half with new, let it sit for a little while with the biowheel and get to the right temperature, then start adding the fish back. I was just going to add some plattys to complete my tank inhabitants, since I know they'd be fine, but my husband really wants to try the fancy guppies. I thought if anything I could leave the mollies in the bin for an extra day and let the guppies be the first ones in the tank. I plan on changing their decorations too, so it would all be "new" territory.

Considering my husband originally wanted to put a bala shark in my tank (which is WAY too small for one), I consider the guppy request an improvement :).

Oh, and as to baby fry, my boss has jack dempseys and other cichlids (sp?) and they enjoy nothing more than a molly fry snack. My boss across the street also has mollies so we occationally trade out fish.

Thanks for all your imput,
Mel


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18862 From: sina_56k Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: sorry to interrup but ...
I've got a new red tail (big one) as a gift from my friend about a
week ago and it dont eat at all. what shall I do?thanks for your
notice.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18863 From: Jennifer Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Plants
Hello everyone,

Well as of early this afternoon I have added aquatic plants to my
aquarium. The Black Moors love it but my Sarassa Comet isnt to sure
what to think about them. I know that the Moors are Omnivores but I
really couldnt find much info on the Comet as to whether they are
Herbivores, Carnivores or Omnivores? I guess I will just have to keep
researching until I find what I am looking for.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18864 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
They are omnivores and generally aren't to finicky (at least all the ones I've had weren't)

-Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 10:51 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plants


Hello everyone,

Well as of early this afternoon I have added aquatic plants to my
aquarium. The Black Moors love it but my Sarassa Comet isnt to sure
what to think about them. I know that the Moors are Omnivores but I
really couldnt find much info on the Comet as to whether they are
Herbivores, Carnivores or Omnivores? I guess I will just have to keep
researching until I find what I am looking for.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18865 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
Speaking of plants, I bought a buch of duckweed online. Put it all in my 60-gallon hex. On the plus side, I give them credit for ending the green water bloom I had, on the neg., my plecos as of this morning finished eating them all. Found a new pleco treat. :/





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18866 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
Wow that makes me happy to know that the Plecos eat those. I have two Plecos and the only thing I can get them to eat are Peas?!

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: Speaking of plants, I bought a buch of duckweed online. Put it all in my 60-gallon hex. On the plus side, I give them credit for ending the green water bloom I had, on the neg., my plecos as of this morning finished eating them all. Found a new pleco treat. :/





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18867 From: Jennifer Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Aquarium Decor
Ok as you are all aware of the type of fish I have by now? But in
researching these goldfish I read that they can harm themselves on
pointy or sharp decor because of their Telescopic eyes. Well I added
only one thing is a ceramic hollow log and I only added this for my
Plecos.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18868 From: whjordan83 Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
Just make sure you check your filters more often when using
duckweed. I used to keep it as well as salvinia in my fish tanks.
I had to clean the filters 3-4 times a week.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Jennifer Kokoruda
<greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
>
> Wow that makes me happy to know that the Plecos eat those. I have
two Plecos and the only thing I can get them to eat are Peas?!
>
> The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: Speaking of plants,
I bought a buch of duckweed online. Put it all in my 60-gallon hex.
On the plus side, I give them credit for ending the green water
bloom I had, on the neg., my plecos as of this morning finished
eating them all. Found a new pleco treat. :/
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
> An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
>
> Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
> http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo!
Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18869 From: sina_56k Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Decor
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jennifer" <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote:
>
> Ok as you are all aware of the type of fish I have by now? But in
> researching these goldfish I read that they can harm themselves on
> pointy or sharp decor because of their Telescopic eyes. Well I added
> only one thing is a ceramic hollow log and I only added this for my
> Plecos.
>
you heard right jennifer exept their eyes it can be suffering to them
because as they want to rest or sleep they ley on the flor of your
aquarium so pointy things can take away their relaxation and its not
just for gold fishes it common thing.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18870 From: Jennifer Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: New addition
The plants that I added are Hornwort and Jungle Vallisneria. The
finkids really seem to like them. They are eating them already! I tell
you these finkids are GLUTONS!!!!!!! LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18871 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Pregnant Guppy - When to Quarentine
I'm pretty new at this, but didn't I read that
they just have their babies in the water and then
you move them to a breeding box or whatever that
box is called? I am going to my fish store soon and will ask for you.

At 06:04 PM 9/18/2006, you wrote:

>I have a new blue female who seems to meet the criteria (round dark
>belly), especially when compared to my orange female who I've had for
>some time now. I found that gestation is 28 days, but how long after
>you see the darkening do you wait to put her in her spawning area? I
>read somewhere of people who can look at them and tell when, but this
>is the first batch I have tried to save, and I have NO clue what the
>signs are, nor do I have hours on end each day to check in on them!
>Since I'm sure she was "hit" before I got her, would it be cruel to
>separate her now?
>
>After I raise a batch, what do I do with them? Do you take them to
>the pet store - do you barter, sell or give them away? I'd like to
>have a few more for a new tank but probably not a whole batch and I
>read they average 30 or so, but some have had as many as 200 (YIKES!)
>I know people sell them and ship them, but I don't want to fuss with
>live shipments - my luck is they would all be DOA.
>
>Thanks everyone!
>
>Betty Lou Kline
>Your Quiet Retreat
><http://www.yourquietretreat.com>http://www.yourquietretreat.com
>
>


Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18872 From: Jennifer Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: New addition
In addition to adding these aquatic plants I also added one more
filter. So now I have one on one side of the aquarium and one on the
far side of the aquarium. I just thought this might help in the long
run since goldfish are sooooooo messsssssyyyyy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18873 From: Jennifer Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Not good I think?
Ok! Well you all are going to eat me alive on this one! Today I bought
one of those tester kits and the results are ( drum roll please ) and
hopefully I am reading this right?!

Nitrate: 40
Nitrite: ? didnt know how to read that one
Total Hardness: 75 ( soft )
Total Alkalinity: 0 ( low )
Ph Freshwater: Acidic

My next move is to work on these levels to get them where they need to
be!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18874 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: mollies and guppies - updated info for your consideration
Well Mollys arent territorial they just like to eat fish slime off of fish. So they can constantly nip at them.

Mel Bowman <swismiself@...> wrote: My tank is a 38 gallon long. Three of the mollies are adults and the rest are baby mollies about 3/4in long. I also have the angelicus loach and the rubbernose pleco, and a gold gourami. Re the gourami...my husband wanted it, and so far it's being a good tank mate...it gets harassed a tiny bit by the two adult female mollies, but I've had him 2 weeks and no sign of brusing or fin breakage. The loach and pleco generall mind their own business unless one of the baby mollies gets too curious. I've yet to see either animal actually hurt a molly.

We're building a new stand for the tank, so when we go to move it we'll have to drain the tank. What has worked well in the past was to drain most of the water into a clean bin, put the fish in there with the heater and my biowheel filter, then drain the rest of the tank, get it moved, and then fill half with old water and half with new, let it sit for a little while with the biowheel and get to the right temperature, then start adding the fish back. I was just going to add some plattys to complete my tank inhabitants, since I know they'd be fine, but my husband really wants to try the fancy guppies. I thought if anything I could leave the mollies in the bin for an extra day and let the guppies be the first ones in the tank. I plan on changing their decorations too, so it would all be "new" territory.

Considering my husband originally wanted to put a bala shark in my tank (which is WAY too small for one), I consider the guppy request an improvement :).

Oh, and as to baby fry, my boss has jack dempseys and other cichlids (sp?) and they enjoy nothing more than a molly fry snack. My boss across the street also has mollies so we occationally trade out fish.

Thanks for all your imput,
Mel


---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18875 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: sorry to interrup but ...
What have you tried to feed it?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sina_56k
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 5:16 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] sorry to interrup but ...

I've got a new red tail (big one) as a gift from my friend about a
week ago and it dont eat at all. what shall I do?thanks for your
notice.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18876 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1041 here jenn

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hello everyone,

Well as of early this afternoon I have added aquatic plants to my
aquarium. The Black Moors love it but my Sarassa Comet isnt to sure
what to think about them. I know that the Moors are Omnivores but I
really couldnt find much info on the Comet as to whether they are
Herbivores, Carnivores or Omnivores? I guess I will just have to keep
researching until I find what I am looking for.






---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18877 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Decor
One thing they are also known for scratching their on eyes on was plastic plants

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Ok as you are all aware of the type of fish I have by now? But in
researching these goldfish I read that they can harm themselves on
pointy or sharp decor because of their Telescopic eyes. Well I added
only one thing is a ceramic hollow log and I only added this for my
Plecos.






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18878 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Pregnant Guppy - When to Quarentine
Yeah they are called breeders you float them in the tanks and they give birth right in there. They seperate the babies from the mothers so that wont get eaten.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: I'm pretty new at this, but didn't I read that
they just have their babies in the water and then
you move them to a breeding box or whatever that
box is called? I am going to my fish store soon and will ask for you.

At 06:04 PM 9/18/2006, you wrote:

>I have a new blue female who seems to meet the criteria (round dark
>belly), especially when compared to my orange female who I've had for
>some time now. I found that gestation is 28 days, but how long after
>you see the darkening do you wait to put her in her spawning area? I
>read somewhere of people who can look at them and tell when, but this
>is the first batch I have tried to save, and I have NO clue what the
>signs are, nor do I have hours on end each day to check in on them!
>Since I'm sure she was "hit" before I got her, would it be cruel to
>separate her now?
>
>After I raise a batch, what do I do with them? Do you take them to
>the pet store - do you barter, sell or give them away? I'd like to
>have a few more for a new tank but probably not a whole batch and I
>read they average 30 or so, but some have had as many as 200 (YIKES!)
>I know people sell them and ship them, but I don't want to fuss with
>live shipments - my luck is they would all be DOA.
>
>Thanks everyone!
>
>Betty Lou Kline
>Your Quiet Retreat
><http://www.yourquietretreat.com>http://www.yourquietretreat.com
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18879 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Not good I think?
You dont have one for ammonia. Also what is the measurement for the Ph at 6.8? The Nitrites was it clear if so then I would say that it was 0 which is really good. Didnt you say you added plants thats good that would take away the nitrates for you but other than that you tank cycling is not bad.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Ok! Well you all are going to eat me alive on this one! Today I bought
one of those tester kits and the results are ( drum roll please ) and
hopefully I am reading this right?!

Nitrate: 40
Nitrite: ? didnt know how to read that one
Total Hardness: 75 ( soft )
Total Alkalinity: 0 ( low )
Ph Freshwater: Acidic

My next move is to work on these levels to get them where they need to
be!





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18880 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Not good I think?
Wow! So I am doing something right for a begginner not bad?! Thanks that is what I was hoping to hear!

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: You dont have one for ammonia. Also what is the measurement for the Ph at 6.8? The Nitrites was it clear if so then I would say that it was 0 which is really good. Didnt you say you added plants thats good that would take away the nitrates for you but other than that you tank cycling is not bad.

Jennifer wrote: Ok! Well you all are going to eat me alive on this one! Today I bought
one of those tester kits and the results are ( drum roll please ) and
hopefully I am reading this right?!

Nitrate: 40
Nitrite: ? didnt know how to read that one
Total Hardness: 75 ( soft )
Total Alkalinity: 0 ( low )
Ph Freshwater: Acidic

My next move is to work on these levels to get them where they need to
be!





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18881 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: sorry to interrup but ...
Red tail what? shark,cat,tetra, ect??
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 8:14 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sorry to interrup but ...


What have you tried to feed it?

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sina_56k
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 5:16 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] sorry to interrup but ...

I've got a new red tail (big one) as a gift from my friend about a
week ago and it dont eat at all. what shall I do?thanks for your
notice.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18882 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Plants
Angels love it too...

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: Tuesday, 19 September 2006 13:30
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Plants



Speaking of plants, I bought a buch of duckweed online. Put it all in my
60-gallon hex. On the plus side, I give them credit for ending the green
water bloom I had, on the neg., my plecos as of this morning finished eating
them all. Found a new pleco treat. :/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18883 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/19/2006
Subject: Re: Not good I think?
As Joe mentioned, you should have a kit for ammonia also. You'll need to
learn how to read the nitrites as well. Normally, it is a simple color
match. pH should be a number (and it is always lowercase "p", uppercase
"H"--even at the start of a sentence).

Once you have a numeric reading for all the tests in your tank, try
testing the water out of your tap, and see how they compare. pH can be
the tricky one. Measure fresh out of the tap, and then after 24 hours of
sitting. The difference can be attributed to dissolved gases in the
water, which reaches a gaseous equilibrium after sitting open for a
while.

Now, the challenge will be to keep fish that like the water you have
rather than to change the water to suit the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Not good I think?

Ok! Well you all are going to eat me alive on this one! Today I bought
one of those tester kits and the results are ( drum roll please ) and
hopefully I am reading this right?!

Nitrate: 40
Nitrite: ? didnt know how to read that one
Total Hardness: 75 ( soft )
Total Alkalinity: 0 ( low )
Ph Freshwater: Acidic

My next move is to work on these levels to get them where they need to
be!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18884 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Not good I think?
Steve,

The kit didnt have a number for pH just a color match? I will get the other kit tomorrow after work if I have time.

Steve wrote:

As Joe mentioned, you should have a kit for ammonia also. You'll need to learn how to read the nitrites as well. Normally, it is a simple color match. pH should be a number (and it is always lowercase "p", uppercase "H"--even at the start of a sentence).

Once you have a numeric reading for all the tests in your tank, try
testing the water out of your tap, and see how they compare. pH can be
the tricky one. Measure fresh out of the tap, and then after 24 hours of sitting. The difference can be attributed to dissolved gases in the
water, which reaches a gaseous equilibrium after sitting open for a
while.

Now, the challenge will be to keep fish that like the water you have
rather than to change the water to suit the fish.


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18885 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Aquarium Decor
I have on one occasion had a telescope get stuck in a hollow bogwood and it
had ripped its eye apart trying to get out.

Surprisingly it survived the ordeal and went on to grow bigger untill I had
to give it away a few months ago.



If the hollow thing is smaller then the goldfish then make sure that it
cannot get its head in there and if it is larger then think about removing
it as and when the fish grows. The last thing you want is the silly fish
trying to push its way in there in hope of getting some easy meal.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: 19 September 2006 20:54
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium Decor



Ok as you are all aware of the type of fish I have by now? But in
researching these goldfish I read that they can harm themselves on
pointy or sharp decor because of their Telescopic eyes. Well I added
only one thing is a ceramic hollow log and I only added this for my
Plecos.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18886 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Fish hanging around the filter
I've often read in diagnosis articles that a symptom common in many
illnesses is the behavior of hanging out under/near the filter.
Would this mean that if your fish is doing this, he's sick with
something? Perhaps being picked on? An illness not yet visible?

I'm curious.

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18887 From: Betty Lou Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Gendering a Platy
How do I tell if my Platy's are male or female?

Betty Lou Kline
Your Quiet Retreat
http://www.YourQuietRetreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18888 From: Rich Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Gendering a Platy
>Rich (mantid666)-wrote
>Platys live bearers the male has a tube shaped anal fin & the female
has a fan shaped fin. I hope that helps you
out.






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...>
wrote:
>
> How do I tell if my Platy's are male or female?
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> Your Quiet Retreat
> http://www.YourQuietRetreat.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18889 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Fish hanging around the filter
In the filter outflow could mean oxygen deficiency, in the water or due to
illness. There is more oxygen in/near the water being returned by the
filter. Behind the filter intake (or behind the filter "waterfall" if
you've got a power filter) could mean he's hiding because he's being picked
on. Those would be things to eliminate, and then go from there.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 3:09 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish hanging around the filter



I've often read in diagnosis articles that a symptom common in many
illnesses is the behavior of hanging out under/near the filter.
Would this mean that if your fish is doing this, he's sick with
something? Perhaps being picked on? An illness not yet visible?

I'm curious.

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18890 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Norwalk Aquarium Society 50th Annual Show & Auction
I received this today because I'm still on their e-mail list

If you happen to be in the area, say within a hundred miles or so, this
is definitely worth a trip.

------------------------------------

Greetings Fellow Fish Fanciers!

Norwalk Aquarium Society will be holding their 50th Annual Show and
Auction on September 30th and October 1st at the Earthplace, 10 Woodside
Lane, Westport, CT. For show rules and directions, please visit our
website at www.norwalkas.org or call John at (866) 219-4NAS or me at
(888) 775-0030.

This year we will once again run our Cash Awards (and Certificate) for
First, Second and Third place. What's really exciting is that we will
also have a special class called "Novelty". This is a Cash Award of
$50, $25, and $15. What is a novelty tank you ask? The sky is the
limit. Many years ago we had a member, who loved their Jack Dempsey,
but he had one eye - this was the "One-Eyed Jack" tank decorated with
cards, there have been Circuses, Heaven and Hell; beakers, picture
frames and so many others. Why not enter this specialty class?

We hope you can join us. As well as the show, Ray "Kingfish" Lucas will
have a wonderful display from his many vendors, Lee Finley will be there
with his Aquatic Books and of course, there is our Judges Dinner, which
has quite the reputation. Your ticket is a covered dish - just let me
know what you will be bringing!

Looking forward to seeing you and your fish at the show.

Anne Broadmeyer

NAS Show Chair

Director Emeritus


------------------------------------------------
\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18891 From: Jennifer Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Second Post
Ok everyone,

The other day I posted the levels in my aquarium for all to see.
Tonight I tested the water again because I wanted to see the
difference if any after a 24 hour period the aquatic plants made?
Well, my Nitrate is 40, Total Hardness is 75 (soft),
Total Alkalinity (low), pH Freshwater is 6.2 for some reason the
Nitrite isnt reading the proper color? I know this cant be good?
But I also have learned that my water is acidic and that I should
buy pH Decreaser. Why is it that my Nitrite levels arent reading
properly? Also, can anyone suggest a good pH Decreaser?

Thanks in advance
Jennifer
Cleo (cat)
Athena (dog)
Julius (iguana)
Fancy (female Black Moor)
Orlando (Baby Black Moor)
Aristotle (little Pleco)
Plato (little Pleco)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18892 From: Jennifer Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Amonia
Oh yeah I forgot to mention that I bought an Amonia kit and the
reading is NH3/NH4 .25 this is good is it not?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18893 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Second Post
Again, don't mess with your water chemistry. You would want something to
increase the pH. To decrease it would make it more acidic (and there are
certain fish that would like it more acidic than you have). You need to
test the pH out of the tap to determine f there is a problem causing the
pH to drop in your tank or if it can be considered normal pH. Test it
out of the tap, then let some sit out for 24 hours and test again.

Yu need to be a bit more explicit about the problem you are having with
the nitrite kit. You say the color does not match up? Is it darker than
the comparator, or is it a different color entirely. You do need to also
test for ammonia. Chances are that your tank is still cycling and you
are going through the nitrite spike now and things should start to level
off within a few days or a week.

Right now, you don't have a baseline to measure against. You can
establish a temporary one by testing your tap water, but realize that
your aquarium readings are like to be a bit different due to the
biological processes happening in your tank.


\\Steve//

Mai Hesa (cat)
Raginald von Floppy (rag doll cat)
Duke (mahogany sheltie)
Patches (colored headed white sheltie)
Snap (red colored headed border collie)
(guess the ones I named and the ones she names for extra credit)
And a bunch of fish with no names

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 9:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Second Post

Ok everyone,

The other day I posted the levels in my aquarium for all to see.
Tonight I tested the water again because I wanted to see the
difference if any after a 24 hour period the aquatic plants made?
Well, my Nitrate is 40, Total Hardness is 75 (soft),
Total Alkalinity (low), pH Freshwater is 6.2 for some reason the
Nitrite isnt reading the proper color? I know this cant be good?
But I also have learned that my water is acidic and that I should
buy pH Decreaser. Why is it that my Nitrite levels arent reading
properly? Also, can anyone suggest a good pH Decreaser?

Thanks in advance
Jennifer
Cleo (cat)
Athena (dog)
Julius (iguana)
Fancy (female Black Moor)
Orlando (Baby Black Moor)
Aristotle (little Pleco)
Plato (little Pleco)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18894 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Amonia
Oh yeah, go ahead and kill me for not reading ahead.

Yep, definitely on the downswing of the ammonia spike and upward awing
of the nitrite spike of your cycle. Give it a bit to start stabilizing.
Both nitrite and ammonia should be 0 (zero)


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 9:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Amonia

Oh yeah I forgot to mention that I bought an Amonia kit and the
reading is NH3/NH4 .25 this is good is it not?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18895 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Gendering a Platy
on their belly there is a bottom fin. if the fin is a rod shape it is male if its an actual fin it is a female. I hope you can see the picturs but the fish on top and the fish in the middle right are both males where the other two are female. See the difference?
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1067


Betty Lou <mommykline@...> wrote:
How do I tell if my Platy's are male or female?

Betty Lou Kline
Your Quiet Retreat
http://www.YourQuietRetreat.com






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18896 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Amonia
Good readings for a tank is ammonia 0 (white color), Nitrites 0 (white color) and nitrates no more then 20

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Oh yeah I forgot to mention that I bought an Amonia kit and the
reading is NH3/NH4 .25 this is good is it not?






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18897 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Second Post
Well the nitrites could be just white that means 0. Did your pH change at all?

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Ok everyone,

The other day I posted the levels in my aquarium for all to see.
Tonight I tested the water again because I wanted to see the
difference if any after a 24 hour period the aquatic plants made?
Well, my Nitrate is 40, Total Hardness is 75 (soft),
Total Alkalinity (low), pH Freshwater is 6.2 for some reason the
Nitrite isnt reading the proper color? I know this cant be good?
But I also have learned that my water is acidic and that I should
buy pH Decreaser. Why is it that my Nitrite levels arent reading
properly? Also, can anyone suggest a good pH Decreaser?

Thanks in advance
Jennifer
Cleo (cat)
Athena (dog)
Julius (iguana)
Fancy (female Black Moor)
Orlando (Baby Black Moor)
Aristotle (little Pleco)
Plato (little Pleco)






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18898 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Ghost knife fish recovered
My little man has finally recovered. I am so happy. The woman at the local
pet store suggested some meds she had and it worked like a charm. That was an
ordeal that lasted for a week. Just for the record folks, Ghost Knife fish do
not swim around constantly in a vertical position. They are mostly nocturnal.
Mostly.lol

To anyone who should ever see their fish swimming upside down, or just not
swimming in their usual form, they can get gas. bad water quality can do it, a
lot of rotted matter too. I did a 50% water change today and the tank is
pristine.

I am so glad its over.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18899 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Fish hanging around the filter
try putting an air stone at the opposite side of your tank from your filter.
If its oxygen deficiency, that should fix it quick.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18900 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/20/2006
Subject: Re: Ghost knife fish recovered
Im so happy I guess if goldfish can get constipated why cant one get gas lol

Morganawolf1@... wrote: My little man has finally recovered. I am so happy. The woman at the local
pet store suggested some meds she had and it worked like a charm. That was an
ordeal that lasted for a week. Just for the record folks, Ghost Knife fish do
not swim around constantly in a vertical position. They are mostly nocturnal.
Mostly.lol

To anyone who should ever see their fish swimming upside down, or just not
swimming in their usual form, they can get gas. bad water quality can do it, a
lot of rotted matter too. I did a 50% water change today and the tank is
pristine.

I am so glad its over.

Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18901 From: Jannine Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Companians for danios and barbs
Ok, I am elisting the help of you guys here for the first time. I
will be getting a 55 gallon tank soon and moving my 4 giant danios, 5
tiger barbs and 1 pleco to it. What other inhabitants could I have
with these guys? I was also wondering if any species of cichlid could
be put with them as well. Thanks in advance for all advice.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18902 From: Cory Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Bettas
Is there any other fish that is compatable with a betta? I have 1 betta in a 10 gallon tank. He likes the
space, but seems so lonely.......thanks....Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18903 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Jannine,



With the likes of Giant gouramis and tiger barbs you can get away with any
fish that is not slow and that does not have long flowing fins. Cichlids are
an option as well but they can be slightly tricky depending on what species
you keep with what. Do you have any cichlids in mind?

Apart from the cichlids, you can keep Rainbow fish, other barbs and
rasboras, tetras, more danios, corydora catfish etc.



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jannine
Sent: 21 September 2006 15:26
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Companians for danios and barbs



Ok, I am elisting the help of you guys here for the first time. I
will be getting a 55 gallon tank soon and moving my 4 giant danios, 5
tiger barbs and 1 pleco to it. What other inhabitants could I have
with these guys? I was also wondering if any species of cichlid could
be put with them as well. Thanks in advance for all advice.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18904 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
With a Male betta you can keep some pencil fish, corydora catfish, Cardinal
tetras, neon tetras, (probably no other tetra except these 2), Herliquine
rasboras …. That’s about what I can recall but a lot also depends on the
size of the tank you have? If it is a very small tank then betta and a
couple of corys should be the max stock. So what size if the tank?



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Cory
Sent: 21 September 2006 15:44
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bettas



Is there any other fish that is compatable with a betta? I have 1 betta in a
10 gallon tank. He likes the
space, but seems so lonely.......thanks....Cory





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18905 From: Keri Kimball Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Zebra Danios are suposed to be compatable. However right now I (I knew they don't like big spaces) but I have a betta in my 55 with my live bearers. He has not had any fins niped, nor have I seen fins niped on the others. The only other things I have in my 55 besides the live bearers are 2 clown loaches and neons. I have not seen any fightning going on.

Keri

Cory <wdwwife@...> wrote:
Is there any other fish that is compatable with a betta? I have 1 betta in a 10 gallon tank. He likes the
space, but seems so lonely.......thanks....Cory






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18906 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Our bettas are mostly in a community tank with loads of plantings and
share space peaceablyh with a dwarf blue gourami, two angelfish, a
dozen cories, neon tetras, black neon tetras, gold tetras, cardinal
tetras, rummy nose tetras, dwarf aquatic frogs, gold snails, and used
to be fine with mollies, platies, and guppies. But we got rid of the
livebearers.

Our lone betta males often bond with a single female that they will get
along with, but not always. They usually enjoy the company of a dwarf
aquatic frog, unless they are tending a bubble nest or young fry.

> Is there any other fish that is compatable with a betta? I have 1
betta in a 10 gallon tank. He likes the
> space, but seems so lonely.......thanks....Cory
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18907 From: Betty Lou Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Gendering a Platy
so the same as a guppy?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rich" <mantid666@...> wrote:
>
>
> >Rich (mantid666)-wrote
> >Platys live bearers the male has a tube shaped anal fin & the
female
> has a fan shaped fin. I hope that helps you
>
out.

>

>

>

>

>

>

> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@>
> wrote:
> >
> > How do I tell if my Platy's are male or female?
> >
> > Betty Lou Kline
> > Your Quiet Retreat
> > http://www.YourQuietRetreat.com
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18908 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Thanks for all the info.......I had a betta in with some guppies and the males ate the betta's fins.....I figured they thought he was food floating in the water....then I put a small placo in with the betta and they ended up eating each other....I'll try a cory cat and a tetra......would the blueberry/strawberry tetras work with the betta? I have 2 of those I've had for a little over a year (surprising) and we like them.....thanks

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18909 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
No. The Tetras will not be ok. The only tetras IMO that CAN live in peace
with a Betta are cardinals or neon tetras. Any other tetra will eat the fins
of the Betta.



Also A Betta is practically in capable of doing enough damage to a plec to
kill it and vice versa. It is possible the one of these died and polluted
the water and killed the other one.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: 21 September 2006 17:42
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Bettas



Thanks for all the info.......I had a betta in with some guppies and the
males ate the betta's fins.....I figured they thought he was food floating
in the water....then I put a small placo in with the betta and they ended up
eating each other....I'll try a cory cat and a tetra......would the
blueberry/strawberry tetras work with the betta? I have 2 of those I've had
for a little over a year (surprising) and we like them.....thanks

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18910 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
It’s a matter of luck and fish attitude here. I had a Betta in my 60 gallon
with the likes of RTB Sharks, Clown loaches, Cherry barb, Gold Barb, Serpae
tetras, Gold Gouramis, red rainbows, boesiman rainbows and Angel fish. Any
of these fish is very much capable of ripping a male betta in a matter of
seconds. This is apart from other female Betta, SAE, Rasboras, Glowlight
danio,



Now I was keeping an eye on uts fins all the time and it did not get nipped.
I would not do that again with other fish that I don’t trust. Have had all
these for about 3 years now and some for about 5.



Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Keri Kimball
Sent: 21 September 2006 16:41
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Bettas



Zebra Danios are suposed to be compatable. However right now I (I knew they
don't like big spaces) but I have a betta in my 55 with my live bearers. He
has not had any fins niped, nor have I seen fins niped on the others. The
only other things I have in my 55 besides the live bearers are 2 clown
loaches and neons. I have not seen any fightning going on.

Keri

Cory <wdwwife@yahoo. <mailto:wdwwife%40yahoo.com> com> wrote:
Is there any other fish that is compatable with a betta? I have 1 betta in a
10 gallon tank. He likes the
space, but seems so lonely.......thanks....Cory


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18911 From: chris topher Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
i have had bettas live quite well with rummy nose
tetras..

the only matches i've had trouble with are bettas and
fancy guppies or betta and long finned tetras such as
black skirts...

they do quite nicely with white clouds...

woody

--- Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@...> wrote:

> No. The Tetras will not be ok. The only tetras IMO
> that CAN live in peace
> with a Betta are cardinals or neon tetras. Any other
> tetra will eat the fins
> of the Betta.
>
>
>
> Also A Betta is practically in capable of doing
> enough damage to a plec to
> kill it and vice versa. It is possible the one of
> these died and polluted
> the water and killed the other one.
>
>
>
> Nim
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Cory Walter
> Sent: 21 September 2006 17:42
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Bettas
>
>
>
> Thanks for all the info.......I had a betta in with
> some guppies and the
> males ate the betta's fins.....I figured they
> thought he was food floating
> in the water....then I put a small placo in with the
> betta and they ended up
> eating each other....I'll try a cory cat and a
> tetra......would the
> blueberry/strawberry tetras work with the betta? I
> have 2 of those I've had
> for a little over a year (surprising) and we like
> them.....thanks
>
> ---------------------------------
> How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low
> PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18912 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Thanks for the info.....I'll give the tetras a try

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18913 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Question
Hello all,

I copied and pasted this from a website. I want to make sure that
the water conditions for my finkids are correct.

Quick Stats: Black Moor Goldfish
Family: Cyprinidae
Range: China, Asia, Japan
Size: Up to 10 inches
Diet: Omnivore
Tank Set-up: Freshwater: Rocks, plants
Tank Conditions: 65-75ºF; pH 6.5-7.5; dH 4-20
Minimum Tank Capacity: 30 gallons
Light: High
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Middle
Care Level: Easy
Reproduction: Egg Scatterer

UNDER THE TANK CONDITIONS CAN SOMEONE EXPLAIN TO ME WHAT THE Dh
REPRESENTS PLEASE. THANK YOU
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18914 From: Cory Walter Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Thanks for the info.......he just seems so lonely in there I want to put something with him......

---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18915 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Yep I think rummy nose could also be ok with a Betta. They are similar to
cardinals in habits.



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of chris topher
Sent: 21 September 2006 19:15
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Bettas



i have had bettas live quite well with rummy nose
tetras..

the only matches i've had trouble with are bettas and
fancy guppies or betta and long finned tetras such as
black skirts...

they do quite nicely with white clouds...

woody

--- Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@yahoo. <mailto:nimmat4%40yahoo.co.uk> co.uk>
wrote:

> No. The Tetras will not be ok. The only tetras IMO
> that CAN live in peace
> with a Betta are cardinals or neon tetras. Any other
> tetra will eat the fins
> of the Betta.
>
>
>
> Also A Betta is practically in capable of doing
> enough damage to a plec to
> kill it and vice versa. It is possible the one of
> these died and polluted
> the water and killed the other one.
>
>
>
> Nim
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Cory Walter
> Sent: 21 September 2006 17:42
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Bettas
>
>
>
> Thanks for all the info.......I had a betta in with
> some guppies and the
> males ate the betta's fins.....I figured they
> thought he was food floating
> in the water....then I put a small placo in with the
> betta and they ended up
> eating each other....I'll try a cory cat and a
> tetra......would the
> blueberry/strawberry tetras work with the betta? I
> have 2 of those I've had
> for a little over a year (surprising) and we like
> them.....thanks
>
> ---------------------------------
> How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low
> PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18916 From: sskmajd Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: sick dwarf gouramis
Not too long ago, I added seven dwarf gouramis to my 25 gallon tank,
and one by one they are falling ill and dying. The tank is well
established (no ammonia, no nitrites, but some nitrates), chemically
stable (pH around 6.8), and the other fish in the tank are fine. I
can see no visible symptoms, other than lying in the plants or near
the bottom and labored breathing. It struck all four of the blue
first and is now moving to the three orange fish. Any ideas? I have
been feeding them garlic flake food -- perhaps it doesn't agree with
them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18917 From: sskmajd Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: New aquarium with cloudy water and brown algae
I have a new (6 weeks) 26 gallon aquarium with three golfish. The
water has been persistently cloudy and brown algae grows on all of the
surfaces. I remember having these same problems when I set up a prior
tank in 1997, but it has been fine for ages now. Are these common new
tank problems, and if so, what to do?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18918 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Pleco
Alright! My little Pleco ( Plato ) is acting strange? He is swimming
in circles until he finally settles on a spot in which to suck? I have
him in the 10 gallon hospital tank and I tested the water and got way
different readings than in the condo tank. Could these readings be so
different because there are no fish in it until needed? The readings I
came out with are:

Nitrate 40
Nitrite no reading?
Total Hardness 150 ( hard )
Total Alkalinty cross between 0 and 40
pH-Freshwater cross between 6.2 & 6.8

I am beginning to think that I should remove him from the hospital
tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18919 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Ok! I do believe I jumped the gun on this one? Plato has been the 10
gallon hospital tank for a couple of hours now and he is doing just
fine. I believe he was just hungry? I think the goldfish where not
letting him eat? Since I have moved him into the other tank all he has
been doing is eating on the left over aquatic plants that I put in
there. So, I guess he was just hungry. I will let Plato stay in there
for a few weeks and see what happens.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18920 From: kissinmera Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Texas Cichlids Mating?
Hi,

My wife read somewhere that Cichlids will lay their eggs on flat
surfaces. My Texas Cichlids are clearing off everything that is flat,
including the glass on the bottom of the tank.

I have not been able to find anything on Texas Cichlids; so does anyone
know about Texas Cichlid mating/breeding?

Scott
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18921 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Well I did not jump the gun as I orginally suspected! I just went to
check on Plato and he has passed away. I am so upset!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18922 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
Most fish nip at slow moving fish or fish with long fins. A betta is both slow and long fins so most anything would nip at them. Neons are the only thing you may get away with.

Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@...> wrote: No. The Tetras will not be ok. The only tetras IMO that CAN live in peace
with a Betta are cardinals or neon tetras. Any other tetra will eat the fins
of the Betta.

Also A Betta is practically in capable of doing enough damage to a plec to
kill it and vice versa. It is possible the one of these died and polluted
the water and killed the other one.

Nim

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: 21 September 2006 17:42
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Bettas

Thanks for all the info.......I had a betta in with some guppies and the
males ate the betta's fins.....I figured they thought he was food floating
in the water....then I put a small placo in with the betta and they ended up
eating each other....I'll try a cory cat and a tetra......would the
blueberry/strawberry tetras work with the betta? I have 2 of those I've had
for a little over a year (surprising) and we like them.....thanks

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18923 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
Are they showing any signs of something is wrong? Are they breathing ok. Are they eating Ok? Are the signs on them?

sskmajd <dklcsw@...> wrote: Not too long ago, I added seven dwarf gouramis to my 25 gallon tank,
and one by one they are falling ill and dying. The tank is well
established (no ammonia, no nitrites, but some nitrates), chemically
stable (pH around 6.8), and the other fish in the tank are fine. I
can see no visible symptoms, other than lying in the plants or near
the bottom and labored breathing. It struck all four of the blue
first and is now moving to the three orange fish. Any ideas? I have
been feeding them garlic flake food -- perhaps it doesn't agree with
them?






---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18924 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Its hard to help when you dont have Ammonia readings that is the most toxic to fish.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Alright! My little Pleco ( Plato ) is acting strange? He is swimming
in circles until he finally settles on a spot in which to suck? I have
him in the 10 gallon hospital tank and I tested the water and got way
different readings than in the condo tank. Could these readings be so
different because there are no fish in it until needed? The readings I
came out with are:

Nitrate 40
Nitrite no reading?
Total Hardness 150 ( hard )
Total Alkalinty cross between 0 and 40
pH-Freshwater cross between 6.2 & 6.8

I am beginning to think that I should remove him from the hospital
tank?






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18925 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Texas Cichlids Mating?
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=916
here is some info. Have you tryied to google for them?

kissinmera <kissinmera@...> wrote:
Hi,

My wife read somewhere that Cichlids will lay their eggs on flat
surfaces. My Texas Cichlids are clearing off everything that is flat,
including the glass on the bottom of the tank.

I have not been able to find anything on Texas Cichlids; so does anyone
know about Texas Cichlid mating/breeding?

Scott





__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18926 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Cichlids is a species tank. Not recommended in a community tank other than the one i have below. Good canidates are mollies, silver dollars, tinfoil barbs, and gouramis just to name a few.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1084

Jannine <rockgoddess8182@...> wrote:
Ok, I am elisting the help of you guys here for the first time. I
will be getting a 55 gallon tank soon and moving my 4 giant danios, 5
tiger barbs and 1 pleco to it. What other inhabitants could I have
with these guys? I was also wondering if any species of cichlid could
be put with them as well. Thanks in advance for all advice.





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18927 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Hello Joseph,

I know I dont know what is wrong with this test kit with these stupid
strips that you have to determine these darn colors?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18928 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Joseph,

The Ammonia reading in both tanks is .25 it says that this is a safe
level according to the directions? Do you think this may have been a
case of possible starvation? He was pretty small? Plato was just over
an inch.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18929 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Different kits have different colors…do you know you have the same type as
Joseph? For example, my Ammonia=0 reading is yellow and my Nitrite=0
reading is blue.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 7:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pleco



Hello Joseph,

I know I dont know what is wrong with this test kit with these stupid
strips that you have to determine these darn colors?!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18930 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
No. I do not know if I have the same type as Joe? But mine are as follows: My Ammonia 0 is yellow and my Nitrite 0 is white.

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote: Different kits have different colors…do you know you have the same type as
Joseph? For example, my Ammonia=0 reading is yellow and my Nitrite=0
reading is blue.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 7:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pleco



Hello Joseph,

I know I dont know what is wrong with this test kit with these stupid
strips that you have to determine these darn colors?!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18931 From: Rich Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Texas Cichlids Mating?
>Hi, Check out "LiveAquaria.com" click on freshwaterfish then go to
American & newworld cichlds there it explains all about the mating
habits. I hope that helps. Rich (mantid666)<wrote>










--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kissinmera" <kissinmera@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> My wife read somewhere that Cichlids will lay their eggs on flat
> surfaces. My Texas Cichlids are clearing off everything that is
flat,
> including the glass on the bottom of the tank.
>
> I have not been able to find anything on Texas Cichlids; so
does anyone
> know about Texas Cichlid mating/breeding?
>
> Scott
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18932 From: Rich Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Texas Cichlids Mating?
>Hi, Check out "LiveAquaria.com" click on freshwaterfish then go to
American & newworld cichlds there it explains all about the mating
habits. I hope that helps. Rich (mantid666)<wrote>










--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kissinmera" <kissinmera@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> My wife read somewhere that Cichlids will lay their eggs on flat
> surfaces. My Texas Cichlids are clearing off everything that is
flat,
> including the glass on the bottom of the tank.
>
> I have not been able to find anything on Texas Cichlids; so
does anyone
> know about Texas Cichlid mating/breeding?
>
> Scott
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18933 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Tap water readings
I just tested my straight from the Tap water and here are the readings:

Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 0
Total Hardness - 75
Total Alkaliity - 40
pH - 8.4

Can someone explain to me these results? I would greatly appreciate it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18934 From: Jennifer Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Confused
In doing my research if that is what it is? lol But what it is
appearing like to me is that I have better quality of water coming
straight out of my tap? Am I correct in thinking this? So when I do my
weekly water changes 10 - 20% do I even need to be adding these
chemicals? The only bad reading I actually saw from the tap water is
my pH is extremely high.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18935 From: harry perry Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Confused/Chemicals
Depending on the source of your water,for example well water won't be chlorinated, you might not have to add chemicals at all. Research your fish as far as the pH goes. You might not have to fix that either.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: In doing my research if that is what it is? lol But what it is
appearing like to me is that I have better quality of water coming
straight out of my tap? Am I correct in thinking this? So when I do my
weekly water changes 10 - 20% do I even need to be adding these
chemicals? The only bad reading I actually saw from the tap water is
my pH is extremely high.






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18936 From: chris topher Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Bettas
really, only neons...

damn, guess i'll have to ditch all the fish that have
lived well with my bettas in the past...

thanks for letting me know...

woody



--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> Most fish nip at slow moving fish or fish with long
> fins. A betta is both slow and long fins so most
> anything would nip at them. Neons are the only thing
> you may get away with.
>
> Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@...> wrote:
> No. The Tetras will not be ok. The only tetras IMO
> that CAN live in peace
> with a Betta are cardinals or neon tetras. Any other
> tetra will eat the fins
> of the Betta.
>
> Also A Betta is practically in capable of doing
> enough damage to a plec to
> kill it and vice versa. It is possible the one of
> these died and polluted
> the water and killed the other one.
>
> Nim
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Cory Walter
> Sent: 21 September 2006 17:42
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Bettas
>
> Thanks for all the info.......I had a betta in with
> some guppies and the
> males ate the betta's fins.....I figured they
> thought he was food floating
> in the water....then I put a small placo in with the
> betta and they ended up
> eating each other....I'll try a cory cat and a
> tetra......would the
> blueberry/strawberry tetras work with the betta? I
> have 2 of those I've had
> for a little over a year (surprising) and we like
> them.....thanks
>
> ---------------------------------
> How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low
> PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low
> PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18937 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
aww now im crying he was just a baby. No ammonia in that amount would not have him starve to death. Your readings for ammonia is not too dangerous that it would kill like that. Its possible if he werent eating, that it was a bacterial infection. Did you try feeding him algae wafers?

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Joseph,

The Ammonia reading in both tanks is .25 it says that this is a safe
level according to the directions? Do you think this may have been a
case of possible starvation? He was pretty small? Plato was just over
an inch.






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18938 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Well if your having trouble witht he test strips Ill hate to see you with the liquid tester LOL jk Wish i could be there to help.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Hello Joseph,

I know I dont know what is wrong with this test kit with these stupid
strips that you have to determine these darn colors?!





__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18939 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Confused/Chemicals
I think the pH might be all that I would need to concentrate on. That is the only reading that was extremely high.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: Depending on the source of your water,for example well water won't be chlorinated, you might not have to add chemicals at all. Research your fish as far as the pH goes. You might not have to fix that either.

Harry

Jennifer wrote: In doing my research if that is what it is? lol But what it is
appearing like to me is that I have better quality of water coming
straight out of my tap? Am I correct in thinking this? So when I do my
weekly water changes 10 - 20% do I even need to be adding these
chemicals? The only bad reading I actually saw from the tap water is
my pH is extremely high.






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
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Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18940 From: Dawn Kaiser Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
That's the mystery -- no spots or fluff or streaks or bloating. Possibly they pale under the chin, but I'm not sure if that is normal coloration or not. Anyone know of something that dwarf gouramis in particular do not tolerate? A certain sensitivity that might not (yet) have stricken the other fish?

Thanks,
Sherri

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18941 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
I know it is sad. I am very sad. I did feed him Wardley Waffers and peas. The only thing I can think of is that when I would feed him at night when the lights where out I would wake up in the morning to find the food gone thinking he ate it but it must have been these greedy goldfish. Because these goldfish always act like they are starving! They are such gluttens and heithens.

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: aww now im crying he was just a baby. No ammonia in that amount would not have him starve to death. Your readings for ammonia is not too dangerous that it would kill like that. Its possible if he werent eating, that it was a bacterial infection. Did you try feeding him algae wafers?

Jennifer wrote: Joseph,

The Ammonia reading in both tanks is .25 it says that this is a safe
level according to the directions? Do you think this may have been a
case of possible starvation? He was pretty small? Plato was just over
an inch.






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links













http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18942 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Look at some of the smaller gouramis, There are a number of good looking
rasboras that may do you well. Look at the loaches for the bottom third of
the tank. Many of them like to be kept in groups, but a number of them also
get quite large, so do your homework on them first.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jannine
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Companians for danios and barbs

Ok, I am elisting the help of you guys here for the first time. I
will be getting a 55 gallon tank soon and moving my 4 giant danios, 5
tiger barbs and 1 pleco to it. What other inhabitants could I have
with these guys? I was also wondering if any species of cichlid could
be put with them as well. Thanks in advance for all advice.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18943 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Confused
When you do water changes you should change the ph overnight in buckets before putting it in the tanks. That helps the fish stress level be low. If you cant do that then add the water to the tank slowly. Then wait 24 hours and test only your pH and see how much it lowered. See fish usually can only tolerate slight changes in pH. If your tank is at 7.0 and then 8.4 water is added then they would go into shock. What other chemicals do you add? If you do the buckets sitting over night then you dont need to do chlorine remove because as it sits there it naturally dechlorinates. That just a trick of the trade and we arent surpose to be giving out secrets like that. Just like if you use freshwater salt in your tanks it cuts down the amount of diseases in your tank. Use the freshwater salt at your LFS one teaspoon per gallon everytime i do a water change. If you use stress coat only use what is on the bottle for dosage. I defiantly would use that if you just pour your tap water
into the tanks. Good Luck.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: In doing my research if that is what it is? lol But what it is
appearing like to me is that I have better quality of water coming
straight out of my tap? Am I correct in thinking this? So when I do my
weekly water changes 10 - 20% do I even need to be adding these
chemicals? The only bad reading I actually saw from the tap water is
my pH is extremely high.






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18944 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
That is ok thanks though. I was reading the test strips wrong. Well now I have it down pat! LOL

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: Well if your having trouble witht he test strips Ill hate to see you with the liquid tester LOL jk Wish i could be there to help.

Jennifer wrote: Hello Joseph,

I know I dont know what is wrong with this test kit with these stupid
strips that you have to determine these darn colors?!





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18945 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
This is where you test your water for pH, Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, Buff (Alkalinity) and let us know because other then no signs thats the only thing that may help us find whats wrong. What size tank? Type of filter? How many fish?

Dawn Kaiser <dklcsw@...> wrote: That's the mystery -- no spots or fluff or streaks or bloating. Possibly they pale under the chin, but I'm not sure if that is normal coloration or not. Anyone know of something that dwarf gouramis in particular do not tolerate? A certain sensitivity that might not (yet) have stricken the other fish?

Thanks,
Sherri

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18946 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
When you go to replace it look for a pleco that is foraging. In other words like it is looking for food or eating what ever the case maybe. Make sure their fin on the back is spread and not too flat. Also check his stomach if it looks caved in then he has an eating disorder.

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: I know it is sad. I am very sad. I did feed him Wardley Waffers and peas. The only thing I can think of is that when I would feed him at night when the lights where out I would wake up in the morning to find the food gone thinking he ate it but it must have been these greedy goldfish. Because these goldfish always act like they are starving! They are such gluttens and heithens.

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: aww now im crying he was just a baby. No ammonia in that amount would not have him starve to death. Your readings for ammonia is not too dangerous that it would kill like that. Its possible if he werent eating, that it was a bacterial infection. Did you try feeding him algae wafers?

Jennifer wrote: Joseph,

The Ammonia reading in both tanks is .25 it says that this is a safe
level according to the directions? Do you think this may have been a
case of possible starvation? He was pretty small? Plato was just over
an inch.

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda



---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18947 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
This is where you test your water for pH, Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, Buff (Alkalinity) and let us know because other then no signs thats the only thing that may help us find whats wrong. What size tank? Type of filter? How many fish? What types of fish?

Dawn Kaiser <dklcsw@...> wrote: That's the mystery -- no spots or fluff or streaks or bloating. Possibly they pale under the chin, but I'm not sure if that is normal coloration or not. Anyone know of something that dwarf gouramis in particular do not tolerate? A certain sensitivity that might not (yet) have stricken the other fish?

Thanks,
Sherri

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18948 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Question
DH is a measurement of hardness.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 2:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question

Hello all,

I copied and pasted this from a website. I want to make sure that
the water conditions for my finkids are correct.

Quick Stats: Black Moor Goldfish
Family: Cyprinidae
Range: China, Asia, Japan
Size: Up to 10 inches
Diet: Omnivore
Tank Set-up: Freshwater: Rocks, plants
Tank Conditions: 65-75ºF; pH 6.5-7.5; dH 4-20
Minimum Tank Capacity: 30 gallons
Light: High
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Middle
Care Level: Easy
Reproduction: Egg Scatterer

UNDER THE TANK CONDITIONS CAN SOMEONE EXPLAIN TO ME WHAT THE Dh
REPRESENTS PLEASE. THANK YOU






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18949 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/21/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Your water looks to be pretty good. The pH, however, is pretty high, but
the hardness would generally indicate a lower pH than that. This is
where an alkalinity (or the BUFF we spoke about here a week or so ago)
test would com in handy to give an idea of the buffering capacity of the
water. Municipal water is usually treated to give it a higher pH to help
save the pipes from the ravages, over time, of acidic water. Did you
save this water sample to recheck the pH tomorrow after it has sat
overnight? The pH of your tank indicates that this may be the case--that
the pH will lower over time. Should this be the case, the pH drops over
time, it would make a case for the old tradition of "aging" water prior
to use in the aquarium. The period it sits out, will allow the pH to
come closer to what it is in the tank, and not shock the fish with a
radically different pH.

I hit the send too quick on your DH question answer. Here is a little
table I pulled up to help you determine DH vs. ppm. It is not exact, but
good enough for aquarium purposes.

0 - 4 dH, 0 - 70 ppm : very soft
4 - 8 dH, 70 - 140 ppm : soft
8 - 12 dH, 140 - 210 ppm : medium hard
12 - 18 dH, 210 - 320 ppm : fairly hard
18 - 30 dH, 320 - 530 ppm : hard
higher : liquid rock (Lake Malawi and Los Angeles, CA)


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 8:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tap water readings

I just tested my straight from the Tap water and here are the readings:

Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 0
Total Hardness - 75
Total Alkaliity - 40
pH - 8.4

Can someone explain to me these results? I would greatly appreciate it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18950 From: micheal03us Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Dropsy???
Hello,
I have a zebra danio, who I think is sick with dropsy. He is not
as big as my other two, who are quite big and seem to be very
healthy. They have a lot of life and energy to them. This little
fellow doesn't seem to have much energy at all. He stays near the
top of the water though he does sometimes go to the bottom and when
I feed them, I don't see him eating. At least he sin't when I'm
watching, it's like he turns away from the food. I don't think he's
eaten in three or four days.
His underbelly is swollen in two places and it tooks like, I
really don't know how to describe this, but almost furry like. That
probably sounds strange but I don't know how else to say it. It
just seemed like it happned overnight.
I read in my book that dropsy is a sign of old age and organ
failure but can be treated but will never fully recover. If it's a
sign of that, he's going to die anyway. With my work schedule right
now, it'll be very difficult to get to the pet shop when it is open
and I don't know if they carry the antibotic for dropsy that the
books say I need.
Is there any kind of home remedy I can use to help him. If it is
old age or organ failure that my danio is facing how long will he
live even if I can treat him? Karen.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18951 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Question
Jennifer, While Steve has pretty much covered what constitutes very
soft, hard and very hard water, etc., in the chart he posted, it
occurred to me that additionally, you might be seeking what the
abbreviation of "DH" actually stands for and/or represents. "DH"
stands for "Degrees of Hardness (or "Degrees Hardness") -- a German
scale for measuring the hardness of the water equivilent to 17.8 ppm of
dissolved calcium and magnesium salts; the two elements that are
recognized as making your water "hard." When present, these two
elements are almost always found in the aquarium as compounds of salts
such as calcium carbonate or magnesium sulphate. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jennifer" <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I copied and pasted this from a website. I want to make sure that
> the water conditions for my finkids are correct.
>
> Quick Stats:
> Tank Conditions: 65-75ºF; pH 6.5-7.5; dH 4-20
>
> UNDER THE TANK CONDITIONS CAN SOMEONE EXPLAIN TO ME WHAT THE Dh
> REPRESENTS PLEASE. THANK YOU
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18952 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
Is there enough oxygen in the tank for them? Of course they might be
near the top instead of the bottom in that case...

How long ago did you purchase them and add them? Did you buy them all
at once or a few here and there?

I just lost a dwarf blue gourami yesterday to bloat. No real signs
until day before yesterday and then it was too late.

Are the fins OK? No holes or anything?
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sskmajd
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 2:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] sick dwarf gouramis



Not too long ago, I added seven dwarf gouramis to my 25 gallon tank,
and one by one they are falling ill and dying. The tank is well
established (no ammonia, no nitrites, but some nitrates), chemically
stable (pH around 6.8), and the other fish in the tank are fine. I
can see no visible symptoms, other than lying in the plants or near
the bottom and labored breathing. It struck all four of the blue
first and is now moving to the three orange fish. Any ideas? I have
been feeding them garlic flake food -- perhaps it doesn't agree with
them?







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18953 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Fish age & illnesses
As a fish gets old, is it more succeptible to illness? If a fish is
very old and seems to be getting ill all the time, should it be put
down?

Leslie

PS Bloat sucks. Last night I lost my dwarf blue gourami to it.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18954 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Tap water readings the next day
I have tested the tap water from yesterday this morning and here are
the readings:

Ammonia - 3.0
Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 0
Total Hardness - 75
Total Alkalinity - 40
pH - 8.4
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18955 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings the next day
Ammonia went up to 3.0? Why would that have happened? (It wasn't that
the first day was it? I might have overlooked it.)
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 9:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tap water readings the next day



I have tested the tap water from yesterday this morning and here are
the readings:

Ammonia - 3.0
Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 0
Total Hardness - 75
Total Alkalinity - 40
pH - 8.4







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18956 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings the next day
Hey Leslie,

The Ammonia went from 6.0 yesterday to 3.0 today. I am currently doing a 10% water change because it has been a little over two weeks since the last change and the water was looking a little thick as I like to call it. So how is everything with you and your finkids?

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
Ammonia went up to 3.0? Why would that have happened? (It wasn't that
the first day was it? I might have overlooked it.)
Leslie




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 9:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tap water readings the next day



I have tested the tap water from yesterday this morning and here are
the readings:

Ammonia - 3.0
Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 0
Total Hardness - 75
Total Alkalinity - 40
pH - 8.4







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18957 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Dropsy???
_Tropical Fish Centre - Fish Diseases_
(http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm)
_Fish Disease diagnosis & fish disease treatments_
(http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/)

try these. they should help.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18958 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Home page
Those fish on the home page are beautiful! What kind of fish are
those? Also, just so everyone knows. I do try to do my own research on
whatever it is I am trying to find out. I just dont want everyone to
think that I am lazy not that you all did but I do do my own research
and if there is some info that I cannot find or do not understand that
is when I ask questions. The reason I am saying this is because I have
another question to ask: Are there certain types of bacteria and or
viruses that fish can catch when the water level and or temp changes?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18959 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: guppy having problems?
There is a female guppy in my tank, who I thought was pregnant
(lowered, dark under belly) that is has been at the top of the tank
doing a lot of wiggling for about a day or so. One of the males, on
occasion, swims up next to her and does the same thing; wiggles his
body at the top of the water. The female looks to have white spots
on just her tail. Is that ich?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18960 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Need a plan?
Ok...being the deep thinker that I am. I need to come up with a
plan. In doing my research I have discovered that Goldfish are pigs
there is no doubt about that, but I do believe I know what killed
Plato? What killed Plato was my water temp as goldfish need a colder
water temp that the Ple*os. I read that Ple*os need a slightly high
temp and their diets need to be substituted not only with the tank
algea but with waffers and peas, cucumbers etc. I feed Aristotle he
is my larger Ple*o these waffers and peas at night when I turn the
lights but the Goldfish seem to find them before he does and I think
this is what happened to Plato. I have since raised the temp in the
water by a few degrees nothing to drastic and now Aristotle is
acting like he should in the warmer temps. The goldfish seem to be
adjusting just fine so far. But I guess I need to devise a plan to
where Aristotle gets the food he needs at night instead of the
goldfish. So the only thing I can think of is to buy a divider for
the tank and put it in place at night to keep the goldfish on one
side and Aristotle on the other to ensure that he gets his dinner.
It may sound like I am mumbling but I am just working things out via
a post so in case anyone would like to offer comments also.

Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18961 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems?
Small dots as if salt was srinkled on him thats Ick.


~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
There is a female guppy in my tank, who I thought was pregnant
(lowered, dark under belly) that is has been at the top of the tank
doing a lot of wiggling for about a day or so. One of the males, on
occasion, swims up next to her and does the same thing; wiggles his
body at the top of the water. The female looks to have white spots
on just her tail. Is that ich?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18962 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
We had 9 Zebra Danios in a 75 gallon tank at work. We added four small Jack Dempseys and now some Yellow Zebras (both species of cichlids). The danios in this tank are actually really, really agressive (they were originally housed with mollys but bullied them to death, except for the few that I saved and put in mine), so for a while they were doing really well with the cichlics. Well, a couple of days ago I only counted 8, and now there are only 7...so they are slowly being eaten as the cichlids get bigger. Some of the danios are really nice and I considered putting three of them into my tank with my mollies, but some of my molly babies are still quite small and the danios are pretty big, so I didn't want them to bully them to death. So, they remain in the tank, and I imagine will all eventually be eaten.

We also have two 5" plecos in there that seem to do ok with the cichlids...at least for now.

Mel


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18963 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Home page
those look like some sort of discus to me.

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Those fish on the home page are beautiful! What kind of fish are
those? Also, just so everyone knows. I do try to do my own research on
whatever it is I am trying to find out. I just dont want everyone to
think that I am lazy not that you all did but I do do my own research
and if there is some info that I cannot find or do not understand that
is when I ask questions. The reason I am saying this is because I have
another question to ask: Are there certain types of bacteria and or
viruses that fish can catch when the water level and or temp changes?






Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18964 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Moving
One subject that I was trying to avoid posting on this group is the
fact that we are going to be moving cross country in about a month. I
am very concerned about how we are going to safely transport the fish?
My husband is thinking that it will be impossible and that it will
just compound to the fact that we have other animals consisting of a
cat, dog and an iguana. Well the cat and dog and iguana are easy. But
my husband is hinting around about me not being able to take my fish.
I told him this morning that that is absolutely out of the question!
He knows how I feel about kids ( the four legged ones ) and I am not
leaving anyone behind or giving anyone away! So, can anyone suggest on
how to safely transport my weeeee little babies and how I can prove my
husband wrong! NO ONE GETS LEFT BEHIND!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18965 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
We did a seven hour driving move three years ago. I had my ten and 50 gallon tank to bring. What we did was put all the fish in a bucket that we bought at the fish store, brought it to them, they packed each fish seperatly and put them into a cooler to keep the water temperature. We also kept 50% of the water from the tanks to start them back up. The moment I walked into our new home we set the tank back up. I don't remember losing any fish and still have some of them! How long is your trip?

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 3:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Moving


One subject that I was trying to avoid posting on this group is the
fact that we are going to be moving cross country in about a month. I
am very concerned about how we are going to safely transport the fish?
My husband is thinking that it will be impossible and that it will
just compound to the fact that we have other animals consisting of a
cat, dog and an iguana. Well the cat and dog and iguana are easy. But
my husband is hinting around about me not being able to take my fish.
I told him this morning that that is absolutely out of the question!
He knows how I feel about kids ( the four legged ones ) and I am not
leaving anyone behind or giving anyone away! So, can anyone suggest on
how to safely transport my weeeee little babies and how I can prove my
husband wrong! NO ONE GETS LEFT BEHIND!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18966 From: chris topher Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
wow...

good luck...

i've taken fish on a two hour move, but when i left ca
for wi i ditched the fish and started over here...

a couple friends got really great aquarium set ups out
of the deal....

the turtles made the trip in an ice chest...

guess its just a matter of how long they are in their
little bags, after all they travel a damn long way to
get to the LFS...

woody


--- Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:

> One subject that I was trying to avoid posting on
> this group is the
> fact that we are going to be moving cross country in
> about a month. I
> am very concerned about how we are going to safely
> transport the fish?
> My husband is thinking that it will be impossible
> and that it will
> just compound to the fact that we have other animals
> consisting of a
> cat, dog and an iguana. Well the cat and dog and
> iguana are easy. But
> my husband is hinting around about me not being able
> to take my fish.
> I told him this morning that that is absolutely out
> of the question!
> He knows how I feel about kids ( the four legged
> ones ) and I am not
> leaving anyone behind or giving anyone away! So, can
> anyone suggest on
> how to safely transport my weeeee little babies and
> how I can prove my
> husband wrong! NO ONE GETS LEFT BEHIND!
>
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18967 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take about 3 -4 days
simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog and iguana. What I
was thinking about doing since I will be following my husband in the
car while he drives the truck is I was going to put the fish in the 10
gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them on the floor of the
passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier in the front seat and
the dog will be in the back or my husband can just keep the dog with
him in the moving truck and the iguana can have the back seat?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18968 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Thanks for the good luck wishing! I am sure I will need it?! But my fish are coming with us and that is final. At least that is what I told my husband.

chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote: wow...

good luck...

i've taken fish on a two hour move, but when i left ca
for wi i ditched the fish and started over here...

a couple friends got really great aquarium set ups out
of the deal....

the turtles made the trip in an ice chest...

guess its just a matter of how long they are in their
little bags, after all they travel a damn long way to
get to the LFS...

woody


--- Jennifer wrote:

> One subject that I was trying to avoid posting on
> this group is the
> fact that we are going to be moving cross country in
> about a month. I
> am very concerned about how we are going to safely
> transport the fish?
> My husband is thinking that it will be impossible
> and that it will
> just compound to the fact that we have other animals
> consisting of a
> cat, dog and an iguana. Well the cat and dog and
> iguana are easy. But
> my husband is hinting around about me not being able
> to take my fish.
> I told him this morning that that is absolutely out
> of the question!
> He knows how I feel about kids ( the four legged
> ones ) and I am not
> leaving anyone behind or giving anyone away! So, can
> anyone suggest on
> how to safely transport my weeeee little babies and
> how I can prove my
> husband wrong! NO ONE GETS LEFT BEHIND!
>
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18969 From: chris topher Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
what about trying a water tight cooler of some kind, a
half full aquarium is gonna slosh all over the front
of the car...

woody

--- Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:

> Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take
> about 3 -4 days
> simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog
> and iguana. What I
> was thinking about doing since I will be following
> my husband in the
> car while he drives the truck is I was going to put
> the fish in the 10
> gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them
> on the floor of the
> passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier in
> the front seat and
> the dog will be in the back or my husband can just
> keep the dog with
> him in the moving truck and the iguana can have the
> back seat?
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18970 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
They may not survive in bags then - you can buy little oxygen tablets for the water - and the days that you stop just plug everything back in. I did that when I only had one ten gallon five years ago. We had car problems, and the tank was still set up so when we stopped we just plugged it all back in.

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 3:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Moving


Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take about 3 -4 days
simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog and iguana. What I
was thinking about doing since I will be following my husband in the
car while he drives the truck is I was going to put the fish in the 10
gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them on the floor of the
passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier in the front seat and
the dog will be in the back or my husband can just keep the dog with
him in the moving truck and the iguana can have the back seat?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18971 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
The Plecos would be fine.
Did you see the danios pick on them? All fish go after sick fish so maybe you saw this?

Mel Bowman <swismiself@...> wrote: We had 9 Zebra Danios in a 75 gallon tank at work. We added four small Jack Dempseys and now some Yellow Zebras (both species of cichlids). The danios in this tank are actually really, really agressive (they were originally housed with mollys but bullied them to death, except for the few that I saved and put in mine), so for a while they were doing really well with the cichlics. Well, a couple of days ago I only counted 8, and now there are only 7...so they are slowly being eaten as the cichlids get bigger. Some of the danios are really nice and I considered putting three of them into my tank with my mollies, but some of my molly babies are still quite small and the danios are pretty big, so I didn't want them to bully them to death. So, they remain in the tank, and I imagine will all eventually be eaten.

We also have two 5" plecos in there that seem to do ok with the cichlids...at least for now.

Mel


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18972 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
That is just about what I was going to do only I did not know they
made oxygen tablets? What I was mentally prepared to do what leave the
bubble stone and tubing in the tank and just blow in it every few
minutes so they could have oxygen? I will make sure that I buy those
oxygen tablets before we leave. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18973 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Yea. The water wouldn't be in a tank for long. I agree, why not a cooler. Get a battery powered air pump and an air stone.

If you wanna go all out, you can try to find those bright LED's with a thin wire for light in the aquarium.

----- Original Message -----
From: chris topher
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Moving


what about trying a water tight cooler of some kind, a
half full aquarium is gonna slosh all over the front
of the car...

woody

--- Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:

> Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take
> about 3 -4 days
> simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog
> and iguana. What I
> was thinking about doing since I will be following
> my husband in the
> car while he drives the truck is I was going to put
> the fish in the 10
> gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them
> on the floor of the
> passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier in
> the front seat and
> the dog will be in the back or my husband can just
> keep the dog with
> him in the moving truck and the iguana can have the
> back seat?
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18974 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
You may be right! What about a little less than half full? Like maybe 5 or 6 inches of water?

chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote: what about trying a water tight cooler of some kind, a
half full aquarium is gonna slosh all over the front
of the car...

woody

--- Jennifer wrote:

> Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take
> about 3 -4 days
> simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog
> and iguana. What I
> was thinking about doing since I will be following
> my husband in the
> car while he drives the truck is I was going to put
> the fish in the 10
> gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them
> on the floor of the
> passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier in
> the front seat and
> the dog will be in the back or my husband can just
> keep the dog with
> him in the moving truck and the iguana can have the
> back seat?
>
>
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18975 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Thank you. I will take that under advisement. I have to admit. When I saw your name The Dragon Hunter replying to my post I actually got scared?! LOL I thought OMG this person is gonna eat me alive for trying to move fish! Please dont take offense. I just thought it was funny of me to think that?!

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: Yea. The water wouldn't be in a tank for long. I agree, why not a cooler. Get a battery powered air pump and an air stone.

If you wanna go all out, you can try to find those bright LED's with a thin wire for light in the aquarium.

----- Original Message -----
From: chris topher
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Moving


what about trying a water tight cooler of some kind, a
half full aquarium is gonna slosh all over the front
of the car...

woody

--- Jennifer wrote:

> Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take
> about 3 -4 days
> simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog
> and iguana. What I
> was thinking about doing since I will be following
> my husband in the
> car while he drives the truck is I was going to put
> the fish in the 10
> gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them
> on the floor of the
> passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier in
> the front seat and
> the dog will be in the back or my husband can just
> keep the dog with
> him in the moving truck and the iguana can have the
> back seat?
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links













http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18976 From: Kevin Batey Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Another thing that you might be interested in doing - whatever container you use - You could get a small power inverter and plug it into your lighter - this would give you household current to run your heater and/or filter so you don't lose your beneficial bacterial. With a little planning, you might find a container that you could temporarily "install" your filter(s) and runt them the whole trip.

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: You may be right! What about a little less than half full? Like maybe 5 or 6 inches of water?

chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote: what about trying a water tight cooler of some kind, a
half full aquarium is gonna slosh all over the front
of the car...

woody

--- Jennifer wrote:

> Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take
> about 3 -4 days
> simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog
> and iguana. What I
> was thinking about doing since I will be following
> my husband in the
> car while he drives the truck is I was going to put
> the fish in the 10
> gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them
> on the floor of the
> passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier in
> the front seat and
> the dog will be in the back or my husband can just
> keep the dog with
> him in the moving truck and the iguana can have the
> back seat?
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18977 From: Jennifer Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Correction
The coast to coast move if all goes well should take us about 3 days.
It is 2911 miles and 40 hours away. So, my husband and I are going to
drive 12 - 13 hours a day. So, it will approximately three days.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18978 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
lol. I never bothered to set up a signature at work, so I occasionally forget to add my name on the bottom. Besides, I'd just send over my dragonfish to do the job. Bugger has such a huge mouth for such a small fish. I do wish ya luck with the move. Don't blaim ya on the fish. They do grow on ya after a while.

-Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer Kokoruda
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Moving


Thank you. I will take that under advisement. I have to admit. When I saw your name The Dragon Hunter replying to my post I actually got scared?! LOL I thought OMG this person is gonna eat me alive for trying to move fish! Please dont take offense. I just thought it was funny of me to think that?!

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: Yea. The water wouldn't be in a tank for long. I agree, why not a cooler. Get a battery powered air pump and an air stone.

If you wanna go all out, you can try to find those bright LED's with a thin wire for light in the aquarium.

----- Original Message -----
From: chris topher
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Moving

what about trying a water tight cooler of some kind, a
half full aquarium is gonna slosh all over the front
of the car...

woody

--- Jennifer wrote:

> Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take
> about 3 -4 days
> simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog
> and iguana. What I
> was thinking about doing since I will be following
> my husband in the
> car while he drives the truck is I was going to put
> the fish in the 10
> gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them
> on the floor of the
> passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier in
> the front seat and
> the dog will be in the back or my husband can just
> keep the dog with
> him in the moving truck and the iguana can have the
> back seat?
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda



---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18979 From: chris topher Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
the more water the fish have the better, coolers arent
that expensive...

woody

ps: lol...the sloshing and splashing will probably
help keep the oxygen level up...




--- Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote:

> You may be right! What about a little less than half
> full? Like maybe 5 or 6 inches of water?
>
> chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote: what
> about trying a water tight cooler of some kind, a
> half full aquarium is gonna slosh all over the front
> of the car...
>
> woody
>
> --- Jennifer wrote:
>
> > Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take
> > about 3 -4 days
> > simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog
> > and iguana. What I
> > was thinking about doing since I will be following
> > my husband in the
> > car while he drives the truck is I was going to
> put
> > the fish in the 10
> > gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them
> > on the floor of the
> > passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier
> in
> > the front seat and
> > the dog will be in the back or my husband can just
> > keep the dog with
> > him in the moving truck and the iguana can have
> the
> > back seat?
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
> An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
>
> Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
> http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18980 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Makes you wonder, are there any freshwater fish that you can NOT have with plecos?

----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Companians for danios and barbs


The Plecos would be fine.
Did you see the danios pick on them? All fish go after sick fish so maybe you saw this?

Mel Bowman <swismiself@...> wrote: We had 9 Zebra Danios in a 75 gallon tank at work. We added four small Jack Dempseys and now some Yellow Zebras (both species of cichlids). The danios in this tank are actually really, really agressive (they were originally housed with mollys but bullied them to death, except for the few that I saved and put in mine), so for a while they were doing really well with the cichlics. Well, a couple of days ago I only counted 8, and now there are only 7...so they are slowly being eaten as the cichlids get bigger. Some of the danios are really nice and I considered putting three of them into my tank with my mollies, but some of my molly babies are still quite small and the danios are pretty big, so I didn't want them to bully them to death. So, they remain in the tank, and I imagine will all eventually be eaten.

We also have two 5" plecos in there that seem to do ok with the cichlids...at least for now.

Mel

---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18981 From: chris topher Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
hmmm...

a small underwater filter such as a fluval to be
plugged in at night...

woody



--- Kevin Batey <wkevinb@...> wrote:

> Another thing that you might be interested in doing
> - whatever container you use - You could get a small
> power inverter and plug it into your lighter - this
> would give you household current to run your heater
> and/or filter so you don't lose your beneficial
> bacterial. With a little planning, you might find a
> container that you could temporarily "install" your
> filter(s) and runt them the whole trip.
>
> Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote:
> You may be right! What about a little less
> than half full? Like maybe 5 or 6 inches of water?
>
> chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote: what about
> trying a water tight cooler of some kind, a
> half full aquarium is gonna slosh all over the front
> of the car...
>
> woody
>
> --- Jennifer wrote:
>
> > Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take
> > about 3 -4 days
> > simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog
> > and iguana. What I
> > was thinking about doing since I will be following
> > my husband in the
> > car while he drives the truck is I was going to
> put
> > the fish in the 10
> > gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them
> > on the floor of the
> > passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier
> in
> > the front seat and
> > the dog will be in the back or my husband can just
> > keep the dog with
> > him in the moving truck and the iguana can have
> the
> > back seat?
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
> An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
>
> Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
> http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 18982 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Steve is that Dragon Hunter you?! You fooled me! I am sure that we will all do well with the move. Yes. Fish do grow on a person.

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: lol. I never bothered to set up a signature at work, so I occasionally forget to add my name on the bottom. Besides, I'd just send over my dragonfish to do the job. Bugger has such a huge mouth for such a small fish. I do wish ya luck with the move. Don't blaim ya on the fish. They do grow on ya after a while.

-Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer Kokoruda
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Moving


Thank you. I will take that under advisement. I have to admit. When I saw your name The Dragon Hunter replying to my post I actually got scared?! LOL I thought OMG this person is gonna eat me alive for trying to move fish! Please dont take offense. I just thought it was funny of me to think that?!

The Dragon Hunter wrote: Yea. The water wouldn't be in a tank for long. I agree, why not a cooler. Get a battery powered air pump and an air stone.

If you wanna go all out, you can try to find those bright LED's with a thin wire for light in the aquarium.

----- Original Message -----
From: chris topher
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Moving

what about trying a water tight cooler of some kind, a
half full aquarium is gonna slosh all over the front
of the car...

woody

--- Jennifer wrote:

> Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take
> about 3 -4 days
> simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog
> and iguana. What I
> was thinking about doing since I will be following
> my husband in the
> car while he drives the truck is I was going to put
> the fish in the 10
> gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them
> on the floor of the
> passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier in
> the front seat and
> the dog will be in the back or my husband can just
> keep the dog with
> him in the moving truck and the iguana can have the
> back seat?
>
>
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda



---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links













http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18983 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
they got some you could wheel also at walmart.

chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote: the more water the fish have the better, coolers arent
that expensive...

woody

ps: lol...the sloshing and splashing will probably
help keep the oxygen level up...

--- Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote:

> You may be right! What about a little less than half
> full? Like maybe 5 or 6 inches of water?
>
> chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote: what
> about trying a water tight cooler of some kind, a
> half full aquarium is gonna slosh all over the front
> of the car...
>
> woody
>
> --- Jennifer wrote:
>
> > Our trip is a coast to coast trip. So it will take
> > about 3 -4 days
> > simply because of the animals. I mean with the dog
> > and iguana. What I
> > was thinking about doing since I will be following
> > my husband in the
> > car while he drives the truck is I was going to
> put
> > the fish in the 10
> > gallon tank leaving it half full and just put them
> > on the floor of the
> > passenger seat so the cat will be in her carrier
> in
> > the front seat and
> > the dog will be in the back or my husband can just
> > keep the dog with
> > him in the moving truck and the iguana can have
> the
> > back seat?
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> test'; ">
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
> An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
>
> Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
> http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

test'; ">

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18984 From: hank voss Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jennifer" <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote:

Jennifer:
Go to your LFS and see if they have any shipping containers
they get their fish in if so they will give them to you since most
stores throw them out anyway.If you want to use your tank to ship
the fish get a large plastic bag or a garbage bag and put it in the
tank then put your water in it with the fish then tie the bag to
prevent the water from spilling outyou can also put in an airstone
this way if you want to.When you reach whatever coast you are going
to just slit the bag and dump in the fish and water.

Good luck Hank







> One subject that I was trying to avoid posting on this group is
the
> fact that we are going to be moving cross country in about a
month. I
> am very concerned about how we are going to safely transport the
fish?
> My husband is thinking that it will be impossible and that it will
> just compound to the fact that we have other animals consisting of
a
> cat, dog and an iguana. Well the cat and dog and iguana are easy.
But
> my husband is hinting around about me not being able to take my
fish.
> I told him this morning that that is absolutely out of the
question!
> He knows how I feel about kids ( the four legged ones ) and I am
not
> leaving anyone behind or giving anyone away! So, can anyone
suggest on
> how to safely transport my weeeee little babies and how I can
prove my
> husband wrong! NO ONE GETS LEFT BEHIND!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18985 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Keep in mind, tanks were not made to move fish around in.. They can
break seal, or crack as mine did and I found out the hard way. It is
not a good idea to move fish inside a aquarium and it is not safe. Now
I know many have done that, but your taking a nice risk in doing so.

Just my thoughts on this,

Ivan


hank voss wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Jennifer" <greeniguana_12@...>
> wrote:
>
> Jennifer:
> Go to your LFS and see if they have any shipping containers
> they get their fish in if so they will give them to you since most
> stores throw them out anyway.If you want to use your tank to ship
> the fish get a large plastic bag or a garbage bag and put it in the
> tank then put your water in it with the fish then tie the bag to
> prevent the water from spilling outyou can also put in an airstone
> this way if you want to.When you reach whatever coast you are going
> to just slit the bag and dump in the fish and water.
>
> Good luck Hank
>
> > One subject that I was trying to avoid posting on this group is
> the
> > fact that we are going to be moving cross country in about a
> month. I
> > am very concerned about how we are going to safely transport the
> fish?
> > My husband is thinking that it will be impossible and that it will
> > just compound to the fact that we have other animals consisting of
> a
> > cat, dog and an iguana. Well the cat and dog and iguana are easy.
> But
> > my husband is hinting around about me not being able to take my
> fish.
> > I told him this morning that that is absolutely out of the
> question!
> > He knows how I feel about kids ( the four legged ones ) and I am
> not
> > leaving anyone behind or giving anyone away! So, can anyone
> suggest on
> > how to safely transport my weeeee little babies and how I can
> prove my
> > husband wrong! NO ONE GETS LEFT BEHIND!
> >
>
>

--
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18986 From: Karen Millett Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Dropsy???
Thank you for the suggestions. I'll keep those pages for reference. My mom got home before I did and she said that she found him caught up in the filter. She got him lose and he swam around a bit so she thought he would be okay until I got home and was able to find something to help him, like a salt treatment but when I did, he was gone. I lifted him out with the net and not a movement from him. Now I only have two danios. I hope they stay healthy. :( I'm starting to feel like I'm not meant to have fish. Karen.

> From: Morganawolf1@...
> Date: 2006/09/22 Fri AM 11:36:30 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Dropsy???
>
> _Tropical Fish Centre - Fish Diseases_
> (http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm)
> _Fish Disease diagnosis & fish disease treatments_
> (http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/)
>
> try these. they should help.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18987 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Thank you. Ivan. I will more than likely put them in a cooler as said in previous responses to this post.

Aquatic Elf <AquaticElf@...> wrote: Keep in mind, tanks were not made to move fish around in.. They can
break seal, or crack as mine did and I found out the hard way. It is
not a good idea to move fish inside a aquarium and it is not safe. Now
I know many have done that, but your taking a nice risk in doing so.

Just my thoughts on this,

Ivan


hank voss wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> , "Jennifer"
> wrote:
>
> Jennifer:
> Go to your LFS and see if they have any shipping containers
> they get their fish in if so they will give them to you since most
> stores throw them out anyway.If you want to use your tank to ship
> the fish get a large plastic bag or a garbage bag and put it in the
> tank then put your water in it with the fish then tie the bag to
> prevent the water from spilling outyou can also put in an airstone
> this way if you want to.When you reach whatever coast you are going
> to just slit the bag and dump in the fish and water.
>
> Good luck Hank
>
> > One subject that I was trying to avoid posting on this group is
> the
> > fact that we are going to be moving cross country in about a
> month. I
> > am very concerned about how we are going to safely transport the
> fish?
> > My husband is thinking that it will be impossible and that it will
> > just compound to the fact that we have other animals consisting of
> a
> > cat, dog and an iguana. Well the cat and dog and iguana are easy.
> But
> > my husband is hinting around about me not being able to take my
> fish.
> > I told him this morning that that is absolutely out of the
> question!
> > He knows how I feel about kids ( the four legged ones ) and I am
> not
> > leaving anyone behind or giving anyone away! So, can anyone
> suggest on
> > how to safely transport my weeeee little babies and how I can
> prove my
> > husband wrong! NO ONE GETS LEFT BEHIND!
> >
>
>

--
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18988 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Dropsy???
Karen,

I am sorry for your loss. I know exactly how you feel. Just yesterday I lost my little Ple*o whose name was Plato. I missed the orginal post and dont know how to go back and look for it. But what is Dropsy?

Karen Millett <svensgirl@...> wrote:
Thank you for the suggestions. I'll keep those pages for reference. My mom got home before I did and she said that she found him caught up in the filter. She got him lose and he swam around a bit so she thought he would be okay until I got home and was able to find something to help him, like a salt treatment but when I did, he was gone. I lifted him out with the net and not a movement from him. Now I only have two danios. I hope they stay healthy. :( I'm starting to feel like I'm not meant to have fish. Karen.

> From: Morganawolf1@...
> Date: 2006/09/22 Fri AM 11:36:30 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Dropsy???
>
> _Tropical Fish Centre - Fish Diseases_
> (http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm)
> _Fish Disease diagnosis & fish disease treatments_
> (http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/)
>
> try these. they should help.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links













http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18989 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
bring some of the water into a fish store and have them test it and then you
can compare readings to see if they are faulty...

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2006 18:35
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pleco



Hello Joseph,

I know I dont know what is wrong with this test kit with these stupid
strips that you have to determine these darn colors?!






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18990 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
try supplementing what you are feeding everyone with pleco discs.
Also...get some driftwood to sit on the bottom...plecos love that (and I
believe it is a requirement in their diet)

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2006 16:55
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pleco



Ok! I do believe I jumped the gun on this one? Plato has been the 10
gallon hospital tank for a couple of hours now and he is doing just
fine. I believe he was just hungry? I think the goldfish where not
letting him eat? Since I have moved him into the other tank all he has
been doing is eating on the left over aquatic plants that I put in
there. So, I guess he was just hungry. I will let Plato stay in there
for a few weeks and see what happens.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18991 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
:-( sorry to hear that...

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2006 17:47
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pleco



Well I did not jump the gun as I orginally suspected! I just went to
check on Plato and he has passed away. I am so upset!






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18992 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
I used kitty litter buckets, three quarters of the way full with holes
punched in the lids. Did just fine cross country
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18993 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
wow....really? I might have to try that one.

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: I used kitty litter buckets, three quarters of the way full with holes
punched in the lids. Did just fine cross country







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links













http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18994 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: New aquarium with cloudy water and brown algae
Cloudy water often happens in a new tank. It is called "new tank
syndrome". This is not to say it happens every time, but often enough.
If the cloudiness is whitish or grey, then it is a bacterial bloom--most
likely what you are seeing with brown algae. If it is green, then it is
an algal bloom. Best thing to do in either case I to live with it, it
should exhaust itself in a few weeks.

The brown algae is a bit more worrisome, though not the end of the
world. Brown algae is not so dependent on light as green algae is, which
does make it a bit more difficult to remove. Algae generally needs two
things to grow--food and light. Apparently you have a low light level in
your tank--just a guess--so decreasing the amount of light may not be a
viable option. You will need to remove the food source for the algae to
be truly successful in removing it. This would mean you need for the
tank to finish its cycle, so the nitrogenous wastes are not contributing
to its growth. The end product of the cycle is nitrates, which also
serves as a food source. With goldfish, you are better off doing regular
large water changes, say 25% minimum to keep the nitrates in line.

Phosphates are another food source of algae. This requires a special kit
to measure, and is generally brought in via your water supply or the
foods you may be feeding. There is not much you can do if it is in your
tap water, but if it is from the food, changing the food can help reduce
it, if not eliminate it.

Watch how much you are feeding. The fish should not get more than they
can eat within a couple of minutes. Goldfish should have a diet that is
high in vegetable matter. Cut back on the feeding if you are feeding
more than that, and if you are feeding more than once a day feed what
they will eat in a factor of the 2 minutes so they do not get more than
2 minute during the day to eat.

Finally, and there will be some disappointment from some of the readers
of this list if I do not mention it, when your fish grow, and become
adults, they will need approximately 30 gallons of water each. You
should plan accordingly to increase the amount of tank space for them as
they grow. Of course, getting a 90 gallon tank right now will not hurt,
but then you give up the delight of having a number of smaller tanks to
fill with fish as the goldfish graduate to larger and larger tanks.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sskmajd
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 3:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New aquarium with cloudy water and brown algae

I have a new (6 weeks) 26 gallon aquarium with three golfish. The
water has been persistently cloudy and brown algae grows on all of the
surfaces. I remember having these same problems when I set up a prior
tank in 1997, but it has been fine for ages now. Are these common new
tank problems, and if so, what to do?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18995 From: harry perry Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer
In this hobby there is no such thing as too many tanks. You are combining a tropical fish with cold water fish. Not good. The tropical fish will be stressed . A month from now you will be asking how come my pleco has white spots. This is ich. When a fish's immune system is stressed it appears. Talking about research. The common pleco, seen everywhere, grows to 12" . Is your tank big enough?.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Ok...being the deep thinker that I am. I need to come up with a
plan. In doing my research I have discovered that Goldfish are pigs
there is no doubt about that, but I do believe I know what killed
Plato? What killed Plato was my water temp as goldfish need a colder
water temp that the Ple*os. I read that Ple*os need a slightly high
temp and their diets need to be substituted not only with the tank
algea but with waffers and peas, cucumbers etc. I feed Aristotle he
is my larger Ple*o these waffers and peas at night when I turn the
lights but the Goldfish seem to find them before he does and I think
this is what happened to Plato. I have since raised the temp in the
water by a few degrees nothing to drastic and now Aristotle is
acting like he should in the warmer temps. The goldfish seem to be
adjusting just fine so far. But I guess I need to devise a plan to
where Aristotle gets the food he needs at night instead of the
goldfish. So the only thing I can think of is to buy a divider for
the tank and put it in place at night to keep the goldfish on one
side and Aristotle on the other to ensure that he gets his dinner.
It may sound like I am mumbling but I am just working things out via
a post so in case anyone would like to offer comments also.

Thanks






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18996 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
I did save the water from the tap and after I have my morning coffee I will retest it. Thank you all for the information. I had no idea that fishkeeping was a science. But I love it!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18997 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Jennifer,

I've read the replies in this thread to this point. I do have a few
things to offer. Again, ammonia is important in the readings you are
taking. 0 ammonia is safe. Any more than that and you are beginning to
tread dangerous waters.

If you are having a problem with the colors, get someone to help you
with that. Not all of us are blessed with good color vision. There are
instruments out there that will give you a reading on a dial or
digitally, but at this stage you probably do not want to bother with the
expense of these, the calibration prior to each use, and the change of
probes. The AquaTru test kits have a good comparator system, which may
help you, and they use reagents packaged in little pillows, so you do
not need to measure, just clip open and add the contents of the pillow
or pillows. All test kits and strips should have an expiration date on
them. If they do not, it is best to look at another kit that does.

As for the pleco, you need to look at them carefully before purchase, as
has been mentioned. If the abdomen is concave, think twice prior to
purchasing the fish. The fish is starving, but you may be able to nurse
it back to health. It is an iffy proposition, though. If the eyes are
sunken, avoid the fish like the plague. A pleco with sunken eyes is on
its death bed. I do not know of any one who has brought one back after
getting to that stage.

Also, every pleco type fish I know of requires wood in its diet. You
will need to add driftwood to your tank for it (them) if you plan to
keep plecos. Plecos need greens, and plenty of them. Algae is the best
for them, most specialize in a specific algal species or group.
Substitutions are the oft mentioned algae wafers, spirulina, zucchini,
cucumber, peas, and other green veggies.

Most plecos come from fast moving waters (I know some will be surprised
to hear this) and do need a high oxygen content in the water. This can
be accomplished with a more powerful filter than usually used on the
size tank you have, the addition of air stones, or other means of
aeration, or by lowering the temperature of the tank. Any one of these
methods can be used or any combination.


\\Steve//
And you thought keeping fish was a piece of cake <g>.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 3:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Pleco

Alright! My little Pleco ( Plato ) is acting strange? He is swimming
in circles until he finally settles on a spot in which to suck? I have
him in the 10 gallon hospital tank and I tested the water and got way
different readings than in the condo tank. Could these readings be so
different because there are no fish in it until needed? The readings I
came out with are:

Nitrate 40
Nitrite no reading?
Total Hardness 150 ( hard )
Total Alkalinty cross between 0 and 40
pH-Freshwater cross between 6.2 & 6.8

I am beginning to think that I should remove him from the hospital
tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18998 From: harry perry Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Dropsy???/micheal03us
I'm afraid in most cases dropsy is terminal. When you see the outward signs. It is already too late. Nothing you could have done. It's not your fault or lack of care. It happens. Sorry

Harry

micheal03us <svensgirl@...> wrote: Hello,
I have a zebra danio, who I think is sick with dropsy. He is not
as big as my other two, who are quite big and seem to be very
healthy. They have a lot of life and energy to them. This little
fellow doesn't seem to have much energy at all. He stays near the
top of the water though he does sometimes go to the bottom and when
I feed them, I don't see him eating. At least he sin't when I'm
watching, it's like he turns away from the food. I don't think he's
eaten in three or four days.
His underbelly is swollen in two places and it tooks like, I
really don't know how to describe this, but almost furry like. That
probably sounds strange but I don't know how else to say it. It
just seemed like it happned overnight.
I read in my book that dropsy is a sign of old age and organ
failure but can be treated but will never fully recover. If it's a
sign of that, he's going to die anyway. With my work schedule right
now, it'll be very difficult to get to the pet shop when it is open
and I don't know if they carry the antibotic for dropsy that the
books say I need.
Is there any kind of home remedy I can use to help him. If it is
old age or organ failure that my danio is facing how long will he
live even if I can treat him? Karen.






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 18999 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Stressed angels
I moved 2 of my angels into another tank. One of them got stuck in the
net w/ his nose through a small hole that I didn't know was there. I
ended up cutting the net until he could swim through. Now he won't eat
and he just stays around the heater all day. Food passes in front of
him and he just looks at it.
The other angel is not nearly as active as he used to be either. He
does eat, but not much.
The water in this tank is the same in which they came from. pH 6.8,
Nitrates 40, Nitrites 0, Ammonia 0.

Have I doomed these poor fish? I added Jungles parasite gaurd this
morning. They've been in this tank now for 3 days.

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19000 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/22/2006
Subject: Re: Stressed angels
Leslie how long ago has this been. He is just stressed out he will need time to him self it may take a few days. If you hover over him its only going to stress him out more because he may think your coming to get him again. Let him settle in. Its just like getting a new fish. Stress can last a couple of weeks.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: I moved 2 of my angels into another tank. One of them got stuck in the
net w/ his nose through a small hole that I didn't know was there. I
ended up cutting the net until he could swim through. Now he won't eat
and he just stays around the heater all day. Food passes in front of
him and he just looks at it.
The other angel is not nearly as active as he used to be either. He
does eat, but not much.
The water in this tank is the same in which they came from. pH 6.8,
Nitrates 40, Nitrites 0, Ammonia 0.

Have I doomed these poor fish? I added Jungles parasite gaurd this
morning. They've been in this tank now for 3 days.

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19001 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but that is another discussion. The science comes in the form of water chemistry and knowledge of the requirements of the fish. The art pretty much covers everything else from they way the tank looks to the mixture of fish you keep.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer Kokoruda
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 10:01 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Tap water readings

I did save the water from the tap and after I have my morning coffee I will retest it. Thank you all for the information. I had no idea that fishkeeping was a science. But I love it!





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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19002 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings the next day
You are going to need to treat the water with something that will take out
the chloramines, which is probably what is giving you the ammonia reading.

That the pH did not drop is worrisome considering that you had said, I
believe, that the tank pH was 6.8. I was expecting to see a pH drop into the
low 7's from this sample. If this is the case, we are going to need to
determine why the difference is so great from the incoming water, and
rectify that.

Do you have a report from your water supplier? They should be sending one
yearly to all their customers. If not, look for their website as it may be
available there. If not, contact them directly. Compare what they say to
your readings. If there is a large difference, then we may suspect that the
test kits you are using are not very good, or that there is a difference
between their published results and the actual water you receive. There are
companies out there that do water testing where you send them a sample and
they test it for you. I seem to recall $35 for a relatively simple series of
tests, but I could be misremembering, or prices may have risen. You'll need
to check around, see what they can give you for tests, and what they charge.
If they differ too much from what the water supplier has told you, then
you'll need to get the water company involved and determine what is going
on. Keep in mind that they only care about human consumption, not what fish
need, which can be two entirely different things.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 10:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tap water readings the next day

I have tested the tap water from yesterday this morning and here are
the readings:

Ammonia - 3.0
Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 0
Total Hardness - 75
Total Alkalinity - 40
pH - 8.4






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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19003 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Pleco
Thank you Steve. I will start on making these corrections/changes this weekend once my husband comes home. I do believe I got in over my head in thinking that fish keeping was easy. I admit it is not! But I dont want to lose any more fish. I will make these changes. I called my aunt and uncle today they used to keep fish all kinds of fish even pirahnas. I told them what happened and they are helping to correct these issues. Thank you for your knowledge in this matter.

Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19004 From: Karen Millett Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Dropsy???
From what I understand in my book it is a disease from old age or poor water conditions. Their bellies swell and look like a pin cushion. I don't know if not eating goes along there but mine wouldn't eat and he was very inactive. Very little strength to swim. My books says it can be treated antibiotics but the fish do not recover comepletely. In my case it was terminal. Karen.
>
> From: Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...>
> Date: 2006/09/22 Fri PM 06:22:54 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: Re: [AquaticLife] Dropsy???
>
> Karen,
>
> I am sorry for your loss. I know exactly how you feel. Just yesterday I lost my little Ple*o whose name was Plato. I missed the orginal post and dont know how to go back and look for it. But what is Dropsy?
>
> Karen Millett <svensgirl@...> wrote:
> Thank you for the suggestions. I'll keep those pages for reference. My mom got home before I did and she said that she found him caught up in the filter. She got him lose and he swam around a bit so she thought he would be okay until I got home and was able to find something to help him, like a salt treatment but when I did, he was gone. I lifted him out with the net and not a movement from him. Now I only have two danios. I hope they stay healthy. :( I'm starting to feel like I'm not meant to have fish. Karen.
>
> > From: Morganawolf1@...
> > Date: 2006/09/22 Fri AM 11:36:30 EST
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Dropsy???
> >
> > _Tropical Fish Centre - Fish Diseases_
> > (http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm)
> > _Fish Disease diagnosis & fish disease treatments_
> > (http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/)
> >
> > try these. they should help.
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
> An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.
>
> Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
> http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19005 From: hank voss Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but
that is another discussion. The science comes in the form of water
chemistry and knowledge of the requirements of the fish. The art
pretty much covers everything else from they way the tank looks to the
mixture of fish you keep.
>
>
> \\Steve//

=============================
Steve:
You forgot to add "common sense" to your answer(which a lot of
people seem to lack)Example:having 5-6 in.angels in a tank and then
getting some neons for color and then asking why their neons are
dissapearing?)Big fish tend to eat smaller fish.
Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19006 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer
"In this hobby there is no such thing as too many tanks"

So the fact that I went out and bought two more little tanks for my
betta boys that are too aggressive to stay with the rest of them isn't
a sign of madness? LOL And I would have gotten more, if they'd had
them in stock, too.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19007 From: harry perry Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer/Madness!!!!!
Don't pay any attention to the folks who think you are mad. Spouses,significant others, etc. etc. etc. They just don't understand.

I'll put some fish I like in my community tank. While I learn about them. Breeding habits etc.When I finish my research, Whoops!!!! here comes another species tank. I think it's exciting. Much more exciting to me than wasting my time drinking beer and watching football. But that's just me.(oh no, now I started something)

I can think of a hundred reasons why a tank should be in every room in a house, stress reduction, teaching children responsibility,exciting decor.. I could go on and on.
I'm not mad, really, at least I don't think so. Whoops, one of my seahorses is giving birth, gotta go.

Harry



cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: "In this hobby there is no such thing as too many tanks"

So the fact that I went out and bought two more little tanks for my
betta boys that are too aggressive to stay with the rest of them isn't
a sign of madness? LOL And I would have gotten more, if they'd had
them in stock, too.






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19008 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Fish age & illnesses
I've not noticed any correlation between age and illness in fish. If a
particular fish seems to be catching every disease that comes down the pike,
I'd probably euthanize it no matter what the age of the fish is.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 10:30 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish age & illnesses

As a fish gets old, is it more succeptible to illness? If a fish is
very old and seems to be getting ill all the time, should it be put
down?

Leslie

PS Bloat sucks. Last night I lost my dwarf blue gourami to it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19009 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Fish age & illnesses
That's exactly what seems to happen with my giant danios lately. Pop
eye, tumor of some sort, spasm of the tail...poor things! They are at
least 6 years old.

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 11:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Fish age & illnesses



I've not noticed any correlation between age and illness in fish. If a
particular fish seems to be catching every disease that comes down the
pike,
I'd probably euthanize it no matter what the age of the fish is.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 10:30 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish age & illnesses

As a fish gets old, is it more succeptible to illness? If a fish is
very old and seems to be getting ill all the time, should it be put
down?

Leslie

PS Bloat sucks. Last night I lost my dwarf blue gourami to it.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19010 From: harry perry Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Fish age & illnesses/The best we can do./Leslie and all.
What is old age for a fish? Some fish can live for more than 20 years some complete their life cycle in two years or less.

Seems to me, the best we can is to care for our fish the best way we know how.
Groups like this one helps a lot.

We know that fish would have many more diseases than we see if it weren't for their immune system. Ich as an example. Ich is present in tanks all the time. When a fish becomes stressed it shows up. Overpopulation being a major cause.

Use all the knowledge available Thu these groups and the internet.

Of course combine it with common sense.

Over the years fish keeping has evolved. Just like everything else. Forty years ago no one knew what cycling a tank meant.

The best we can do?

Keep learning.
Research , research, research your fish.
20% water change once a week.
Don't feed the same food all the time.
Live food helps if your fish will eat it.
Live plants will help simulate the environment of the original habitat and provide a supplement to their diet.
Resist the urge to compare fish to people . People think, fish don't.
They respond to instincts. Period. "My fish likes to eat this, my fish likes to eat that" No, your fish is trying to fill a need it has for what it needs to survive. Find out what that is.

If a fish is sick all the time and the others aren't, maybe it's immune system was compromised at birth. The best you can do for this fish and the others in the tank is to euthanize it.

Harry






Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: I've not noticed any correlation between age and illness in fish. If a
particular fish seems to be catching every disease that comes down the pike,
I'd probably euthanize it no matter what the age of the fish is.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 10:30 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish age & illnesses

As a fish gets old, is it more succeptible to illness? If a fish is
very old and seems to be getting ill all the time, should it be put
down?

Leslie

PS Bloat sucks. Last night I lost my dwarf blue gourami to it.






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19011 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Home page
They are some form of blue discus.

For research, it depends on what I need to find. If I am looking for a fish, online I'll start at http://www.fishbase.org and follow with a Google on an accurate name. Offline, I'll look in my reference library. I'll also contact people I know, depending on the fish and the person's expertise. My reference library contained books and magazines as well as squirreled away e-mails.

If the topic concerns other than fish or plants, it will depend upon where I am. If I am at home, I'll hit the books first, then go to Google. If I am elsewhere, I'll jut use Google. I do have an advantage here as I do have the experience to know when the information I see on the web is good or bad information. There is a lot of bad information on the web. You need to be able to weed it out if your web searches are to yield useful information. This will come with experience.

Check your local library for books that may help you. Check to see if there is a club or society in your area that you can join and gain access to the expertise of its members. Subscribe to one or more of the magazines available. Start building your own library. You can do that on the cheap by checking out what is available in used book stores.

Here is a portion of my library that has been entered into a database. This entry work is ongoing with new acquisitions getting entered right away and others being entered as I use them or have the time to grab a bunch of books (spread all over the house) and enter them.

All About Cichlids
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Braz Walker
ISBN: 0866220380


American Aquarium Fishes (W L Moody, Jr, Natural History Series)
Publisher: Texas A&M University Press
Authors: Robert J. Goldstein / Rodney W. Harper / Richard Edwards
ISBN: 0890968802


AMERICAN GARDEN GUIDES, THE : Water Gardening (American Garden Guides)
Release Date: 4/2/1996
Publisher: Pantheon
Authors: Denver Botanic Garden
ISBN: 0679758607


An Atlas of Freshwater and Marine Catfishes: A Preliminary Survey of the Siluriformes
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Warren E. Burgess
ISBN: 086622131X


Anabantoids, gouramis and related fishes
Publisher: T.F.H. Publications
Authors: Robert J Goldstein
ISBN: 0876660006


AquaLog Photo Collection, No. 1: African Catfishes
Publisher: Verlag A.C.S. GmbH
Authors: Ulrich Glaser
ISBN: 393170257X


AquaLog Photo Collection, No. 2: Tetras I
Publisher: Verlag A.C.S. GmbH
Authors: Ulrich Glaser
ISBN: 3931702626


AquaLog Photo Collection, No. 3: Tetras II
Publisher: Verlag A.C.S. GmbH
Authors: Ulrich Glaser
ISBN: 3931702650


AquaLog Photo Collection, No. 4: Tetras III
Publisher: Verlag A.C.S. GmbH
Authors: Ulrich Glaser
ISBN: 3931702448


Aqualog Special: Magnificent Flowers for the Garden Pond--Irises, Primulas, and Waterlilies
Publisher: Hollywood Import & Export, Inc.
Authors: Axel Gutjahr / Frank Schaefer
ISBN: 3936027706


Aqualog: The Puffers of Fresh and Brackish Waters
Publisher: Hollywood Import & Export, Inc.
Authors: Klaus Ebert
ISBN: 393170260X


At the Water's Edge: Gardening With Moisture-Loving Plants
Publisher: Ward Lock Ltd
Authors: Philip Swindells
ISBN: 0706369939


Baensch Aquarium Atlas, Vol. 4
Release Date: 6/30/2004
Publisher: Mergus Verlag
Authors: Hans A. Baensch / Ruediger Riehl
ISBN: 3882440589


The book of fishes.
Release Date: 3/4/1924
Publisher: Washington, The Society,
Authors: La Gorce, John Oliver, 1880- ed.


The book of fishes;
Publisher: Washington
Authors: La Gorce, John Oliver, 1880- [from old catalog] ed.


Brackish Aquariums
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Michael W. Gos
ISBN: 0876665199


Catfish in the Aquarium
Publisher: Tetra Press
Authors: Carl Ferraris
ISBN: 3893560432


Central American Cichlids
Publisher: Tetra Press
Authors: David Sands
ISBN: 1564651533


The Cichlid Fishes: Nature's Grand Experiment in Evolution
Publisher: Perseus Books Group
Authors: George W. Barlow
ISBN: 0738205281


Coldwater Fishes: A Comprehensive Survey of Coldwater Fishes Suitable for Keeping in Aquariums and Ponds, Including Koi Carp (Fishkeeper's Guide Series)
Release Date: 3/12/1985
Publisher: Salamander Books
Authors: Dick Mills
ISBN: 0668063491


The Complete Book of the Water Garden
Publisher: Overlook Hardcover
Authors: Philip Swindells / David Mason
ISBN: 0879513853


A Complete Introduction to Garden Ponds: Completely Illustrated in Full Color
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Al David
ISBN: 0866222987


Dr. Axelrod's Atlas of freshwater aquarium fishes
Publisher: T.F.H. Publications
Authors: Herbert R Axelrod
ISBN: 0866220526


Ecology and Evolution of Livebearing Fishes (Poeciliidae)
Publisher: Prentice Hall
Authors: Gary K. Meffe
ISBN: 0132227207


Encyclopedia of Live Foods
Publisher: Tfh Pubns Inc
Authors: Charles Masters
ISBN: 0876660936


Encyclopedia of Tropical Fishes: With Special Emphasis on Techniques of Breeding
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Herbert R. Axelrod / William Vordervinkler
ISBN: 0876661584


Encyclopedia of water plants
Publisher: T. F. H. Publications, distributed in the U.S.A. by Crown Publishers
Authors: Jirí Stodola


Exotic aquarium fishes: A work of general reference, 19th Edition, Revised
Publisher: Metaframe Corp, Dutton
Authors: William T Innes


Exotic Tropical Fishes
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Herbert R. Axelrod
ISBN: 0876660529


Fish : Classic Natural History (Classic Natural History Prints)
Release Date: 5/23/1990
Publisher: Gramercy
Authors: Rh Value Publishing
ISBN: 0517017695


Fish and Invertebrate Culture
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons Inc
Authors: S.H. Spotte
ISBN: 0471817600


Fishes of the World
Publisher: Bantam Books
Authors: Allan Cooper


A Fishkeeper's Guide to Fish Breeding
Publisher: Voyageur Press
Authors: Chris Andrews
ISBN: 1564651266


A Fishkeeper's Guide to Koi: Comprehensive Advice on Maintaining and Displaying These Spectacular Ornamental Carp
Publisher: Tetra Press
Authors: Barry James
ISBN: 3923880626


A Fishkeeper's Guide to Livebearing Fishes: A Splendid Introduction to the Care and Breeding of a Wide Range of These Fascinating Fishes
Publisher: Tetra Pr
Authors: Peter W. Scott
ISBN: 3923880618


A Fishkeeper's Guide to South American Catfish
Publisher: Howell Book House
Authors: David Sands
ISBN: 3923880979


The forgotten aquariums of Boston
Publisher: Finley Aquatic Books
Authors: Jerry Ryan
ISBN: 0971199906


Freshwater Aquarium Fishes: A Practical Fishkeeping Guide
Publisher: Bookthrift Co
Authors: John A. Dawes
ISBN: 0671093096


Freshwater Fieshes of the World, Volume 2
Publisher: T.F.H. Publications, LTD
Authors: Gunther Sterba
ISBN: 289277612


Freshwater Fishes of Mexico
Publisher: University Of Chicago Press
Authors: Robert Rush Miller / W. L. Minckley / Steven Mark Norris
ISBN: 0226526046


Freshwater Fishes of the World, Volume 1
Publisher: T.F.H. Publications, LTD
Authors: Gunther Sterba
ISBN: 289277612


Garden Pools
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Paul Stetson
ISBN: 0876660774


Genera of Fishes and a Classification of Fishes
Publisher: Stanford Univ Pr (S)
Authors: David S. Jordan
ISBN: 0804702012


Genetics for Aquarists
Publisher: Tfh Pubns Inc
Authors: Johannes Horst Schroder
ISBN: 0876664613


Gouramis and Other Labyrinth Fishes
Publisher: Barrons Educational Series
Authors: Gary Elson / Oliver Lucanas
ISBN: 0764121057


Hobbyist Guide to Catfish and Loaches: The Bottom Dwellers Collector's Edition
Publisher: Tetra Press
Authors: Christopher Andrews, Editor / Paul Loiselle, Co-Ordinating Editor
ISBN: 3893560742


Hobbyist Guide to the Natural Aquarium (Aquarium Digest International Collector's Edition)
Publisher: Tetra Press
Authors: Chris Andrews
ISBN: 3893561323


International Directory of Aquarist Organizations
Publisher: Aquatic Conservation Network
Authors: Rob Huntley / Jaré Sausaman
ISBN: 1895655013


Jurassic Fishes
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Haruto Kodera
ISBN: 0793800862


Killifish Master Index of the American Killifish Association
Publisher: AKA


Koi and Garden Pools: A Complete Introduction
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Herbert R. Axelrod
ISBN: 0866223991


Koi for Home and Garden
Publisher: Tfh Pubns Inc
Authors: Glen Takeshita
ISBN: 087666754X


Livebearing aquarium fishes.
Publisher: [New York] Macmillan
Authors: Jacobs, Kurt, 1908-


The Marine Aquarium Reference: Systems and Invertebrates
Publisher: Green Turtle Pubns
Authors: Martin A. Moe
ISBN: 0939960052


Nothobranchius
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Rex A. Jubb
ISBN: 0876665342


Planning Your Ornamental Fish Pond
Publisher: Vantage Press
Authors: Robert G. Sims
ISBN: 0533067294


Pocket Guide to the Freshwater of Southern Africa
Publisher: CentaurPublishers
Authors: M. N. Bruton / P.B.N. Jackson / P. H. Skelton


The Science of Fish Health Management: Master Volume (Aquariology Series)
Publisher: Tetra Press
Authors: John B. Gratzek
ISBN: 1564651053


The Secret Life of Sharks: A Leading Marine Biologist Reveals the Mysteries of Shark Behavior
Publisher: Simon & Schuster
Authors: A. Peter Klimley
ISBN: 0743241703


Sharks, Skates, and Rays of the Carolinas
Release Date: 2/23/2006
Publisher: The University of North Carolina Press
Authors: Frank Schwartz
ISBN: 0807854662


The Guide to Owning Angelfish: Disease, Varieties, Care, Species, Breeding
Publisher: TFH Publications
Authors: Braz Walker
ISBN: 0793803691


The many-splendored fishes of the Atlantic coast: Including the fishes of the Gulf of Mexico, Florida, Bermuda, the Bahamas, and the Caribbean : 408 fishes in full color
Publisher: Marquest Colorguide Books
Authors: Gar Goodson
ISBN: 0916240010


Tropical Aquarium Fishes
Release Date: 3/3/1984
Publisher: Hamlyn Publishing Group Limited
Authors: Ivan Petrovicky
ISBN: 0600356183


Tropical fish: setting up and maintaining freshwater and marine aquaria;
Publisher: Octopus Books Ltd
Authors: Reginald Dutta
ISBN: 0706401190


The Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice: 18/2
Release Date: 3/1/1988
Publisher: W B Saunders Co
Authors: Michael K. Stoskopf
ISBN: 1416022384


Water In the Garden
Publisher: Voyageur Press (Tetra Press)
Authors: James Allison
ISBN: 3893560424


Water in the garden
Publisher: John Gifford Limited
Authors: Douglas Bartrum


Waterlilies and Other Aquatic Plants
Publisher: Henry Holt & Co
Authors: Frances Perry
ISBN: 0805011706


Waterside Planting
Publisher: Ward Lock Ltd
Authors: Philip Swindells
ISBN: 0706372638


You and Your Aquarium
Release Date: 3/12/1986
Publisher: Knopf
Authors: Dick Mills
ISBN: 0394729854



\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 11:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Home page

Those fish on the home page are beautiful! What kind of fish are
those? Also, just so everyone knows. I do try to do my own research on
whatever it is I am trying to find out. I just dont want everyone to
think that I am lazy not that you all did but I do do my own research
and if there is some info that I cannot find or do not understand that
is when I ask questions. The reason I am saying this is because I have
another question to ask: Are there certain types of bacteria and or
viruses that fish can catch when the water level and or temp changes?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19012 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems?
It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots developed recently, or have you just noticed them?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems?

There is a female guppy in my tank, who I thought was pregnant
(lowered, dark under belly) that is has been at the top of the tank
doing a lot of wiggling for about a day or so. One of the males, on
occasion, swims up next to her and does the same thing; wiggles his
body at the top of the water. The female looks to have white spots
on just her tail. Is that ich?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19013 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: GPS coordinates
I have some fish with GPS collection coordinates. I have tried a couple of
the
" FREE " GPS locator services online.

I end of finding maps with no detail information other then the country.

Anyone able to help me ?

location is N 19.43.483 W 103.11.800

I'd like the name of the River, lake, lagoon what ever it is..

Thanks for the help and maybe someone can tutor me in HOW you where able to
locate the location ....

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19014 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer/Madness!!!!!
Heheh...I may be heading that direction, though not likely just yet,
since we are military and I think the government would frown upon
having to move ten tanks overseas. :P

> I can think of a hundred reasons why a tank should be in every room
in a house, stress reduction, teaching children responsibility,exciting
decor.. I could go on and on.
> I'm not mad, really, at least I don't think so. Whoops, one of my
seahorses is giving birth, gotta go.
>
> Harry
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19015 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems?
Hi -

I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am doing
the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
cichlid forum. Here is the link -
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php



At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:

>It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
>fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
>developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
>
>\\Steve//
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
>Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems?
>
>There is a female guppy in my tank, who I thought was pregnant
>(lowered, dark under belly) that is has been at the top of the tank
>doing a lot of wiggling for about a day or so. One of the males, on
>occasion, swims up next to her and does the same thing; wiggles his
>body at the top of the water. The female looks to have white spots
>on just her tail. Is that ich?
>
>Thanks.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19016 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: GPS coordinates
Rob,



I use Google Earth usually for these things (earth.google.com) or you can
even use maps.google.com

You put the Location in Google Earth/Maps as "19 43.483'N, 103 11.800' W"
and it will take you on the map.



Unfortunately the location you mentioned is in Mexico and google does not
have detailed maps for the location. IT works for most places I need to use
in the UK.



Nim







_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of FortWayneFish@...
Sent: 23 September 2006 18:57
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] GPS coordinates



I have some fish with GPS collection coordinates. I have tried a couple of
the
" FREE " GPS locator services online.

I end of finding maps with no detail information other then the country.

Anyone able to help me ?

location is N 19.43.483 W 103.11.800

I'd like the name of the River, lake, lagoon what ever it is..

Thanks for the help and maybe someone can tutor me in HOW you where able to
locate the location ....

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19017 From: Nicole Muench Seidel Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: OT--Autism Walk: 1 in 166 children have Autism
As some of you know, our daughter has Autism. Currently, 1 in 166
children are diagnosed on the Autism Spectrum. According to a May
2006 Time Magazine article, three times has many children are
diagnosis with an Autism Spectrum Disorder as Juvenile Diabetes, yet
Autism gets 1/5 of the research funding. I passionately believe we
need to address this situation, both for our daughter Veronika and the
millions of children and adults world wide who have this disorder.

On Oct. 15th there will be a world wide walk to raise Autism Awareness
and scholarship funds for people to go the the Autism Treatment Center
of America. We were at the treatment center last month and are very
excited by their program. We met people for 23 states and 10
countries. As I said this walk is world wide: UK, China, Australia,
etc. and of course the US: Coast to coast.

To register to walk or give a secure donation online, just go to:
http://www.walkaroundtheworld.org/ All donations are tax deductible.
Please find a team to join or support with a donation! I am the team
leader for Gettysburg, PA. While the website indicates that this is a
10K Walk, we have opted to make it a 5K Walk to avoid interfering with
tourism and to make the walk more accessible to as many people as
possible. After joining a team, walkers will need to let your team
leader know what t-shirt size that you prefer(WAW only has Large and
Extra Large available for order). Depending on when walkers originally
sign up to walk, t-shirts may or may not be here in time for the walk,
but everyone will get a t-shirt eventually.

Please forward this email! Thank you for your time and consideration!
Peace be with you!---Nicole
*********************************************
There is no such thing as "false hope"!
http://www.autismtreatmentcenter.org/

Bob Casey Jr. for US Senate
http://www.bobcaseyforpa.com/

Phil Avillo for Congress (19th District)
http://www.avilloforcongress.com/

Lynn M. Smallwood for PA State Representative (91st District)
Smallwood - BIG RESULTS!!!
"I don't want your money, I want your VOTE!", Lynn Smallwood
http://www.lynnsmallwood.foroffice.us/

Marie DeYoung for PA State Representative (163rd District)
http://www.deyoungforrep.com/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19018 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Correction
With the dog and for your sanity, you will need to stop approximately
each two hours for at least a few minutes. Stretch your legs, let the
dog get a few sniffs in, etc. Depending on the truck, going up the
mountains might be a bit slower than you anticipate. I'd say 4 days,
maybe 5 depending on weather and road conditions as well as traffic.

Don't take me wrong, but I've done a lot of long distance driving in my
time. I've also made the trip from central MA to San Diego, CA in 2.5
days, back when the speed limits were higher and I had a lesser sense of
self preservation <g>, and that was stopping to sight see along the way
<G>.

Since then traffic has worsened, roads have worsened, and it just takes
me longer to do some runs I do regularly to different places. So, don't
be surprised if it takes longer than you are anticipating. This is why I
used 5 days in my other note to you about moving fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 4:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Correction

The coast to coast move if all goes well should take us about 3 days.
It is 2911 miles and 40 hours away. So, my husband and I are going to
drive 12 - 13 hours a day. So, it will approximately three days.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19019 From: harry perry Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: OT--Autism Walk/Nicole/OT post./Please read.
I love children. I feel sad when I hear something is wrong like Autism. However at the risk of sounding insensitive here;

Drop the political crap at the end of your message. It doesn't belong here. What does political advertising have to do with Autism?.

I won't allow this group to be turned into a political circus.

With the next political advertisement you will be placed on moderated status.

In the future you might want to show some respect for the group owner by letting us know the nature of your OT post.Before you post it.

Harry, a moderator.




Nicole Muench Seidel <nikasmomma2001@...> wrote: As some of you know, our daughter has Autism. Currently, 1 in 166
children are diagnosed on the Autism Spectrum. According to a May
2006 Time Magazine article, three times has many children are
diagnosis with an Autism Spectrum Disorder as Juvenile Diabetes, yet
Autism gets 1/5 of the research funding. I passionately believe we
need to address this situation, both for our daughter Veronika and the
millions of children and adults world wide who have this disorder.

On Oct. 15th there will be a world wide walk to raise Autism Awareness
and scholarship funds for people to go the the Autism Treatment Center
of America. We were at the treatment center last month and are very
excited by their program. We met people for 23 states and 10
countries. As I said this walk is world wide: UK, China, Australia,
etc. and of course the US: Coast to coast.

To register to walk or give a secure donation online, just go to:
http://www.walkaroundtheworld.org/ All donations are tax deductible.
Please find a team to join or support with a donation! I am the team
leader for Gettysburg, PA. While the website indicates that this is a
10K Walk, we have opted to make it a 5K Walk to avoid interfering with
tourism and to make the walk more accessible to as many people as
possible. After joining a team, walkers will need to let your team
leader know what t-shirt size that you prefer(WAW only has Large and
Extra Large available for order). Depending on when walkers originally
sign up to walk, t-shirts may or may not be here in time for the walk,
but everyone will get a t-shirt eventually.

Please forward this email! Thank you for your time and consideration!
Peace be with you!---Nicole
*********************************************
There is no such thing as "false hope"!
http://www.autismtreatmentcenter.org/

Bob Casey Jr. for US Senate
http://www.bobcaseyforpa.com/

Phil Avillo for Congress (19th District)
http://www.avilloforcongress.com/

Lynn M. Smallwood for PA State Representative (91st District)
Smallwood - BIG RESULTS!!!
"I don't want your money, I want your VOTE!", Lynn Smallwood
http://www.lynnsmallwood.foroffice.us/

Marie DeYoung for PA State Representative (163rd District)
http://www.deyoungforrep.com/






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19020 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: Moving
Right now I believe you have 2 goldfish, is that correct?

Moving from one coast to another, driving, with a dog and cat, let's figure 5 days to make the trip.

Using the assumption of 2 goldfish, what are you going to need to move them? You are going to need 2 large plastic bags and two styrofoam fish shipping containers (styros). You can probably get these from your LFS. Offer to pay for them, but you are likely to get them for nothing, especially if you have been a good customer. Do this ASAP so you are sure to get them. As someone mentioned, a lot of stores get rid of them as soon as the fish are unpacked, but now, many are recycled back to the distributor. The large bags are sized for those containers, so they should fit in the container perfectly.

Pick up a battery operated air pump. If your LFS does not have any in stock, you can usually find one at a bait shop. Get one that runs with batteries. If it also plugs into your car's cigarette lighter, so much the better, but if you need to bring the fish indoors while going over the mountains, you may need to bring the fish in if you stop overnight. Also get a three-way valve, some tubing, and a couple of air stones so you can have one pump feed both containers.

You'll also need some plastic wrap (Saran wrap or similar).

Now that you have what you need for the fish, you can concentrate on getting everything packed. Do 10-20% water changes every day until the move. The day or two before the move, stop feeding. This will allow the fish to clean out their systems, and thus produce less waste and ammonia for you to worry about. Don't pack the water conditioners, you'll want have them handy.

Do you last minute packing and get everything in the truck. Now it is time to do the fish. Set up your styros, and place the bags in them, now put water in each one from the tank. You'll want enough to cover the fish and not much more. Then move one goldfish to each styro. Place one end of your tubing with an air stone on it and tie the first bag. Place the other end of the tubing with the other air stone into the other bag. Cover the styros. Move the styros out to your car. Now you can cut the tubing and attach it to the three way and the pump, making sure the pump is higher than the water level.

Now we come to an area where there are two schools of thought, some say to keep at least 80% of the water in your tank and move it with you, and others that say it is not necessary. If you know what the water conditions will be like at your new home (have already checked them out, perhaps on the website of the water supplier) or just wish to take your chances with the water quality, dump the water. If you wish to leave as little to chance as you can, take the water with you. Keep in mind that water weighs approximately 8.5# per gallon (for the purists it is 8.345 pounds per gallon, usually upped to 8.4). If you have 10 gallons of water in a container, you are looking at lugging 85 pounds. If you are moving the water take this into consideration and plan containers for it accordingly.

Empty the tank, but leave a wee bit in the gravel, and cover the gravel with the plastic wrap. Empty the filter and wrap it in the plastic wrap. This is an attempt to save as many of the established bacteria as is possible and if the substrate or the filter pads and/or bio wheel are kept at least moist, you should have a decent population to start with in the newly set up tank.

Now you can move the tank and related stuff into the truck, say good bye, and be on your way.

Check the fish at each stop, and if they look like they may be having a problem with breathing, start the air pump. Keep an ear to the radio for the local nighttime low expected. If it is below 60°, then bring the fish in over night when you stop, otherwise they should be OK in the car. If, at any point, the fish do not look like they are doing well even with the air pump going, add some of the water conditioner to the bags.

Once you arrive at your destination, set up the tank. If you brought water, add it to the tank (after removing the plastic wrap, of course, If the temperature of the tank water is nearly the same or the same as that in the bags, go ahead and add your fish. If you did not bring your water, fill the tank and add your conditioner. Let the temperature equalize and add the fish as you would for a new addition to a tank.

I know a person who moved his whole fishroom in a similar manner, though he rented a truck to do it, and he claims not to have lost a fish.

If you have other fish you have added to your tank (a bad decision now that you will be moving), split them up between the two containers.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 3:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Moving

One subject that I was trying to avoid posting on this group is the
fact that we are going to be moving cross country in about a month. I
am very concerned about how we are going to safely transport the fish?
My husband is thinking that it will be impossible and that it will
just compound to the fact that we have other animals consisting of a
cat, dog and an iguana. Well the cat and dog and iguana are easy. But
my husband is hinting around about me not being able to take my fish.
I told him this morning that that is absolutely out of the question!
He knows how I feel about kids ( the four legged ones ) and I am not
leaving anyone behind or giving anyone away! So, can anyone suggest on
how to safely transport my weeeee little babies and how I can prove my
husband wrong! NO ONE GETS LEFT BEHIND!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19021 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/23/2006
Subject: Re: GPS coordinates
NIM,

Thanks for the help I also ended up coming up bolank on Google search. Looks
like GPS coordinates works for USA, Canada and most European countries but
get beyond that you find a lot of BLANK spaces. Even some of the Australian
GPS coordinates i have come in blank as there is no data available.

Thanks again for the help I guess these fish will just keep there GPS
coordinates w/ no waterway names given.

Thanks again for the Help

Did I say Thanks for the help already ? ( reread reply and I guess I did a
few times )

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19022 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: GPS coordinates
It looks to be an area NE of Tamazula de Gordiano, Mexico. It appears to
be a bend, almost a U-turn in the river that flows past that town.
Unfortunately the map I am looking at does not have a name on the river.
I did some poking around, but was unable to find a map that had the name
of the river that was legible.

I used the desktop version of Google Earth to get close to the latitude
and longitude, and also checked MapPoint on another machine once I had
the name of a place. Neither listed the name of the river. You might
want to search to see if there is a listing for the town that contains
information about the river and the surrounding area. Looks to be Hwy
110 running along the river.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of FortWayneFish@...
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 1:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] GPS coordinates

I have some fish with GPS collection coordinates. I have tried a
couple of
the
" FREE " GPS locator services online.

I end of finding maps with no detail information other then the
country.

Anyone able to help me ?

location is N 19.43.483 W 103.11.800

I'd like the name of the River, lake, lagoon what ever it is..

Thanks for the help and maybe someone can tutor me in HOW you where able
to
locate the location ....

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19023 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Whatever I did in the salt/warm water process, something has gone
terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
down to 80.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi -
>
>I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
>response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am doing
>the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
>cichlid forum. Here is the link -
><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
>At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> >
> >\\Steve//
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
> ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogr
> oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> >To:
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19024 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Jeannie, It would appear you are trying to treat for Ich. I noticed
and went up to the site (Cichlid Forum) you outlined in your previous
post. There apparently are a number of slightly different ways to go
with using the salt and heat method. I did notice the site
recommended using from 1.75 Tablespoons of salt per 5 gallon to 6
Tablespoons of salt per 5 gallons. How much salt are you using.
This is a case where more is not necessarily better.

Ich cures are often had using as little as 1 Tablespoon of salt per 5
gallons, although I prefer using more where there are no plants,
Cory's, Tetras or snails involved. It is mainly the heat that is
important in treating Ich in this manner, which should be raised to
86 o, with increased aeration and/or surface agitation from your
filter. At 86 o and above, Ich can no longer reproduce.

While either aquarium salt or "sea salt" (marine salt), in addition
to table salt, is perfectly fine for treating Ich, larger amounts
should be added progressively (a lesser amount each day until you
build up to the desired quantity). Six (6) Tablespoons of salt for 5
gallons of water is over two (2) teaspoons of salt per gallon and is
a bit much to add all at once for some species, even if most
Cichlids can tolerate this sudden amount. Mollies can tolerate up to
8 teaspoons of salt per gallon, but again it should be done
progressively. Please let us know how much salt you have added.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> Whatever I did in the salt/warm water process, something has gone
> terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
> bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
> on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was
the
> right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
> down to 80.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Hi -
> >
> >I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
> >response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am
doing
> >the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
> >cichlid forum. Here is the link -
> ><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-
forum.com/articles/ich.php
> >
> >At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> > >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> > >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> > >
> > >\\Steve//
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From:
> > ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogr
> > oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> > >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> > >To:
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19025 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer/Madness!!!!!
Wow...a seahorse! I bet those a beautiful? I have always enjoyed looking at Seahorses. I would never own because I can just imagine how hard they are to take care of? Are they hard to take care of?

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: Heheh...I may be heading that direction, though not likely just yet,
since we are military and I think the government would frown upon
having to move ten tanks overseas. :P

> I can think of a hundred reasons why a tank should be in every room
in a house, stress reduction, teaching children responsibility,exciting
decor.. I could go on and on.
> I'm not mad, really, at least I don't think so. Whoops, one of my
seahorses is giving birth, gotta go.
>
> Harry
>






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links













http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

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http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







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Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19026 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Hi Ray:

I added 5 Tbsp of salt to my 10 gallon tank, which apparently was the
wrong thing to do as my real tough guppy has keeled over and died in
the few hours since being at church. I did a 50% water change before
leaving in the hope of getting the darn salt out, but that did not
save the cute little guy. Everyone else seems to be coming around
albeit some sluggishness and a lack of appetite in all but the lone
surviving male. One guppy is hanging near the filter's intake, and
she looks speckled so the ich is probably affecting her right
now. What should I do? The water temp is just above 80
degrees. Should I bring the water temp back up and continue with the
salt? Thank you.

Jeannie

At 10:01 AM 9/24/2006, you wrote:

>Jeannie, It would appear you are trying to treat for Ich. I noticed
>and went up to the site (Cichlid Forum) you outlined in your previous
>post. There apparently are a number of slightly different ways to go
>with using the salt and heat method. I did notice the site
>recommended using from 1.75 Tablespoons of salt per 5 gallon to 6
>Tablespoons of salt per 5 gallons. How much salt are you using.
>This is a case where more is not necessarily better.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19027 From: chris topher Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
there are very effective medications at the LFS, when
i run into ich i use "Rid-Ich"

woody

--- ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:

> Hi Ray:
>
> I added 5 Tbsp of salt to my 10 gallon tank, which
> apparently was the
> wrong thing to do as my real tough guppy has keeled
> over and died in
> the few hours since being at church. I did a 50%
> water change before
> leaving in the hope of getting the darn salt out,
> but that did not
> save the cute little guy. Everyone else seems to be
> coming around
> albeit some sluggishness and a lack of appetite in
> all but the lone
> surviving male. One guppy is hanging near the
> filter's intake, and
> she looks speckled so the ich is probably affecting
> her right
> now. What should I do? The water temp is just
> above 80
> degrees. Should I bring the water temp back up and
> continue with the
> salt? Thank you.
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 10:01 AM 9/24/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Jeannie, It would appear you are trying to treat
> for Ich. I noticed
> >and went up to the site (Cichlid Forum) you
> outlined in your previous
> >post. There apparently are a number of slightly
> different ways to go
> >with using the salt and heat method. I did notice
> the site
> >recommended using from 1.75 Tablespoons of salt per
> 5 gallon to 6
> >Tablespoons of salt per 5 gallons. How much salt
> are you using.
> >This is a case where more is not necessarily
> better.
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19028 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Need a plan?/another tank/Jennifer/Seahorses
Not hard at all nor expensive. I use a 10 gallon tank with crushed shell as a substrate, a sponge filter, heater, light. Please note this set up is for dwarf or pygmy horses only. 2" high max. Some horses can reach 14" which calls for a much more involved sw set up. There are seahorse groups. That's how I learned.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Wow...a seahorse! I bet those a beautiful? I have always enjoyed looking at Seahorses. I would never own because I can just imagine how hard they are to take care of? Are they hard to take care of?

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: Heheh...I may be heading that direction, though not likely just yet,
since we are military and I think the government would frown upon
having to move ten tanks overseas. :P

> I can think of a hundred reasons why a tank should be in every room
in a house, stress reduction, teaching children responsibility,exciting
decor.. I could go on and on.
> I'm not mad, really, at least I don't think so. Whoops, one of my
seahorses is giving birth, gotta go.
>
> Harry
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19029 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: GPS coordinates/Rob
Do you have a scientific name or picture of these fish?. Maybe we could locate the origin that way?

Harry

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: It looks to be an area NE of Tamazula de Gordiano, Mexico. It appears to
be a bend, almost a U-turn in the river that flows past that town.
Unfortunately the map I am looking at does not have a name on the river.
I did some poking around, but was unable to find a map that had the name
of the river that was legible.

I used the desktop version of Google Earth to get close to the latitude
and longitude, and also checked MapPoint on another machine once I had
the name of a place. Neither listed the name of the river. You might
want to search to see if there is a listing for the town that contains
information about the river and the surrounding area. Looks to be Hwy
110 running along the river.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of FortWayneFish@...
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 1:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] GPS coordinates

I have some fish with GPS collection coordinates. I have tried a
couple of
the
" FREE " GPS locator services online.

I end of finding maps with no detail information other then the
country.

Anyone able to help me ?

location is N 19.43.483 W 103.11.800

I'd like the name of the River, lake, lagoon what ever it is..

Thanks for the help and maybe someone can tutor me in HOW you where able
to
locate the location ....

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19030 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: GPS coordinates/Rob
The fish in Question where collected in 2005 by Rusty Wessel.
I was wanting the name of the river so I could name them with a River
location rather then a GPS cordinance.
I am waiting confirmation from Rusty Wessel but it appear these fish will
be named in my tanks as Xenotoca eiseni - Rio Tamazula Wessel 2005 . I will
keep the GPS location to myself and will pass it along when i give these
fish to other hobbyists. To help keep this strain Pure as possible.

Thank you to all that helped


Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board of Directors
www.ftas.net



In a message dated 9/24/2006 2:24:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,


harryfisherman@... writes:

Do you have a scientific name or picture of these fish?. Maybe we could
locate the origin that way?






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19031 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate them.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm water process, something has gone
terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
down to 80.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi -
>
>I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
>response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am doing
>the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
>cichlid forum. Here is the link -
><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
>At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> >
> >\\Steve//
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
> ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogr
> oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> >To:
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19032 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Black art?

----------------------------------------------------

Steve Szabo wrote:

Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but that is another discussion.

The science comes in the form of water chemistry and knowledge of the requirements of the fish. The art pretty much covers everything else from they way the tank looks to the mixture of fish you keep.


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19033 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Joe,

That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any deleterious effects from its use.

The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate them.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm water process, something has gone
terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
down to 80.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi -
>
>I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
>response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am doing
>the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
>cichlid forum. Here is the link -
><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
>At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> >
> >\\Steve//
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
> ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogr
> oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> >To:
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19034 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
Well, I suppose, if you have a black substrate, black background, black
rocks and some black fish, it could be a black art <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Kokoruda
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:43 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Tap water readings

Black art?

----------------------------------------------------

Steve Szabo wrote:

Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but that
is another discussion.

The science comes in the form of water chemistry and knowledge of the
requirements of the fish. The art pretty much covers everything else
from they way the tank looks to the mixture of fish you keep.


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19035 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings
That is funny! I have black fish with white gravel...

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Well, I suppose, if you have a black substrate, black background, black
rocks and some black fish, it could be a black art .


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Kokoruda
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:43 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Tap water readings

Black art?

----------------------------------------------------

Steve Szabo wrote:

Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but that
is another discussion.

The science comes in the form of water chemistry and knowledge of the
requirements of the fish. The art pretty much covers everything else
from they way the tank looks to the mixture of fish you keep.


\\Steve//


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19036 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Steve , I agree with you and I use IO salt all the time on freshwater. The only thing is the buffers in the salt mix, my have raised the ph possibly ?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:10 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems


Joe,

That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any deleterious effects from its use.

The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate them.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm water process, something has gone
terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
down to 80.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi -
>
>I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
>response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am doing
>the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
>cichlid forum. Here is the link -
><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
>At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> >
> >\\Steve//
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
> ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogr
> oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> >To:
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19037 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????
It's fun. If you consider constantly learning and trying new ideas to be fun. I do.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Black art?

----------------------------------------------------

Steve Szabo wrote:

Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but that is another discussion.

The science comes in the form of water chemistry and knowledge of the requirements of the fish. The art pretty much covers everything else from they way the tank looks to the mixture of fish you keep.

\\Steve//






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19038 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????
I concur! Harry. I have just witnesses that my Comet whose name is Aristotle is harassing my Pleco whose name is Socrates. Aristotle is chasing him around and bothering him. I have also tried to put a piece of drift wood in the tank for Socrates and am having a very hard time keeping it anchored to the bottom. It is 12 inches long. What is a good method for keeping this anchored to the aquarium floor?

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: It's fun. If you consider constantly learning and trying new ideas to be fun. I do.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda wrote: Black art?

----------------------------------------------------

Steve Szabo wrote:

Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but that is another discussion.

The science comes in the form of water chemistry and knowledge of the requirements of the fish. The art pretty much covers everything else from they way the tank looks to the mixture of fish you keep.

\\Steve//






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links













http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19039 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Whatever you use for salt, the pH should rise. With a marine salt, it
may rise higher and faster than with a kosher salt or Epsom salt. As for
the salt mixes sold at the LFS, they probably also have buffers to raise
the pH since they are mainly meant for African Rift Lake fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 7:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

Steve , I agree with you and I use IO salt all the time on freshwater.
The only thing is the buffers in the salt mix, my have raised the ph
possibly ?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:10 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems


Joe,

That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand
rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any
deleterious effects from its use.

The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large a
quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in the
water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your
surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate them.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the
salt/warm water process, something has gone
terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
down to 80.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi -
>
>I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
>response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am doing
>the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
>cichlid forum. Here is the link -

><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-forum
.com/articles/ich.php
>
>At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> >
> >\\Steve//
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
> ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogr

> oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> >To:
>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.
com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19040 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????/Where's Plato?
As I recall Socrates was Plato's mentor. Your mixing tropical fish with cold water fish. Socrates would find that to be illogical. Attach a weight to the driftwood. Like a piece of slate that can be buried in the gravel.You really are asking for trouble combining tropical and cold water fish.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: I concur! Harry. I have just witnesses that my Comet whose name is Aristotle is harassing my Pleco whose name is Socrates. Aristotle is chasing him around and bothering him. I have also tried to put a piece of drift wood in the tank for Socrates and am having a very hard time keeping it anchored to the bottom. It is 12 inches long. What is a good method for keeping this anchored to the aquarium floor?

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: It's fun. If you consider constantly learning and trying new ideas to be fun. I do.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda wrote: Black art?

----------------------------------------------------

Steve Szabo wrote:

Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but that is another discussion.

The science comes in the form of water chemistry and knowledge of the requirements of the fish. The art pretty much covers everything else from they way the tank looks to the mixture of fish you keep.

\\Steve//

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19041 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????
You can silicone it to a piece of flat rock, like the shale often seen
for sale at the LFS. Or, you can wait until it becomes water logged
enough to sink on its own. The pleco does not care if it is anchored or
not, just that it is there.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Kokoruda
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 8:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Tap water readings/Black art????

I concur! Harry. I have just witnesses that my Comet whose name is
Aristotle is harassing my Pleco whose name is Socrates. Aristotle is
chasing him around and bothering him. I have also tried to put a piece
of drift wood in the tank for Socrates and am having a very hard time
keeping it anchored to the bottom. It is 12 inches long. What is a good
method for keeping this anchored to the aquarium floor?

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: It's fun. If you consider
constantly learning and trying new ideas to be fun. I do.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda wrote: Black art?

----------------------------------------------------

Steve Szabo wrote:

Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but that
is another discussion.

The science comes in the form of water chemistry and knowledge of the
requirements of the fish. The art pretty much covers everything else
from they way the tank looks to the mixture of fish you keep.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19042 From: Jennifer Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????/Where's Plato?
Harry,

Do you think that I should move Socrates into the 10 gallon tank where
he is by himself until we are finished with our move and then buy him
his own 55 gallon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19043 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????/Where's Plato?/again
I think that would be a good idea. And totally logical.

Harry

Jennifer <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Harry,

Do you think that I should move Socrates into the 10 gallon tank where
he is by himself until we are finished with our move and then buy him
his own 55 gallon tank?






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19044 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Plecos , your opinion please.
The common Pleco seen at Walmart and your local lfs. can reach 14" Are you prepared for that.?.There are many "Plecos" available, different sizes, different colors, Please research your fish. I don't want to catch one the next time I go fishing.

Harry


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19045 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????/Where's Plato?/again
I will do just that then! I will wait until tomorrow though when I can clean that tank and change the water and then I will move him right in. Thanks for your patience and understanding! I have to say your fishies are lucky to have a dad like you!

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: I think that would be a good idea. And totally logical.

Harry

Jennifer wrote: Harry,

Do you think that I should move Socrates into the 10 gallon tank where
he is by himself until we are finished with our move and then buy him
his own 55 gallon tank?






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19046 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos , your opinion please.
Hello Harry,

I have researched this fish about as much as I can through the internet. My next move is to buy books. I am well prepared for Socrates to get as big as he can. Besides money is not an issue with my animals they all get the best. I will just Socrates in his own tank to ensure that he gets the proper care.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
The common Pleco seen at Walmart and your local lfs. can reach 14" Are you prepared for that.?.There are many "Plecos" available, different sizes, different colors, Please research your fish. I don't want to catch one the next time I go fishing.

Harry


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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19047 From: harry perry Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fishies dad????
Thank you, that was sweet.

I'm not the father of these fish, but I understand your meaning exactly.

You seem to honestly care about fish. That's all it takes, that and a desire to learn. Please keep in touch.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: I will do just that then! I will wait until tomorrow though when I can clean that tank and change the water and then I will move him right in. Thanks for your patience and understanding! I have to say your fishies are lucky to have a dad like you!

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: I think that would be a good idea. And totally logical.

Harry

Jennifer wrote: Harry,

Do you think that I should move Socrates into the 10 gallon tank where
he is by himself until we are finished with our move and then buy him
his own 55 gallon tank?

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda



---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19048 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Fishies dad????
Harry,

I do care about fish and all of the animals I have. I never get an animal with the intent to destroy it. You should have seen me when I first got my Iguana. He was soo little and not more than 2-3 months old. Well, now I have had him a little over two years and he is over 4 feet long and meaner than ever! Even though he lunges and tries to bite me I still love him more than ever. When I decided to get fish it is because my husband travels 97% with his company and I thought fish would keep me occupied. Well, they do. I have done nothing but research these fish. My sister bought her 6 yr old son goldfish and I started to tell her about doing the weekly water changes and the toxic waste and the water temps and the oxygen etc. and she said that I must be the only person in the world who care about goldfish like that?!

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
Thank you, that was sweet.

I'm not the father of these fish, but I understand your meaning exactly.

You seem to honestly care about fish. That's all it takes, that and a desire to learn. Please keep in touch.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda wrote: I will do just that then! I will wait until tomorrow though when I can clean that tank and change the water and then I will move him right in. Thanks for your patience and understanding! I have to say your fishies are lucky to have a dad like you!

harry perry wrote: I think that would be a good idea. And totally logical.

Harry

Jennifer wrote: Harry,

Do you think that I should move Socrates into the 10 gallon tank where
he is by himself until we are finished with our move and then buy him
his own 55 gallon tank?

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda



---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda







---------------------------------
Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19049 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????
it might need some time to soak

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: I concur! Harry. I have just witnesses that my Comet whose name is Aristotle is harassing my Pleco whose name is Socrates. Aristotle is chasing him around and bothering him. I have also tried to put a piece of drift wood in the tank for Socrates and am having a very hard time keeping it anchored to the bottom. It is 12 inches long. What is a good method for keeping this anchored to the aquarium floor?

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: It's fun. If you consider constantly learning and trying new ideas to be fun. I do.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda wrote: Black art?

----------------------------------------------------

Steve Szabo wrote:

Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but that is another discussion.

The science comes in the form of water chemistry and knowledge of the requirements of the fish. The art pretty much covers everything else from they way the tank looks to the mixture of fish you keep.

\\Steve//

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda



---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19050 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
What is IO salt?

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: Steve , I agree with you and I use IO salt all the time on freshwater. The only thing is the buffers in the salt mix, my have raised the ph possibly ?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:10 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

Joe,

That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any deleterious effects from its use.

The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate them.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm water process, something has gone
terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
down to 80.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi -
>
>I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
>response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am doing
>the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
>cichlid forum. Here is the link -
><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
>At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> >
> >\\Steve//
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
> ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogr
> oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> >To:
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19051 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
IO = Instant Ocean salt mix.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems


What is IO salt?

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: Steve , I agree with you and I use IO salt all the time on freshwater. The only thing is the buffers in the salt mix, my have raised the ph possibly ?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:10 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

Joe,

That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any deleterious effects from its use.

The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate them.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm water process, something has gone
terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
down to 80.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi -
>
>I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
>response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am doing
>the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
>cichlid forum. Here is the link -
><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
>At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> >
> >\\Steve//
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
> ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogr
> oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> >To:
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19052 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
To freshwater? that sounds dangerous esp for a beginer since they are also prone to over medicating. If it was freshwater salt or non iodizing salt his fish wouldnt be dieing now.

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: IO = Instant Ocean salt mix.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

What is IO salt?

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: Steve , I agree with you and I use IO salt all the time on freshwater. The only thing is the buffers in the salt mix, my have raised the ph possibly ?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:10 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

Joe,

That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any deleterious effects from its use.

The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate them.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm water process, something has gone
terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
down to 80.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi -
>
>I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
>response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am doing
>the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
>cichlid forum. Here is the link -
><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
>At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> >
> >\\Steve//
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
> ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogr
> oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> >To:
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19053 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: Re: Tap water readings/Black art????
I will let it soak until it sinks.

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: it might need some time to soak

Jennifer Kokoruda wrote: I concur! Harry. I have just witnesses that my Comet whose name is Aristotle is harassing my Pleco whose name is Socrates. Aristotle is chasing him around and bothering him. I have also tried to put a piece of drift wood in the tank for Socrates and am having a very hard time keeping it anchored to the bottom. It is 12 inches long. What is a good method for keeping this anchored to the aquarium floor?

harry perry wrote: It's fun. If you consider constantly learning and trying new ideas to be fun. I do.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda wrote: Black art?

----------------------------------------------------

Steve Szabo wrote:

Fishkeeping is a science and an art, some may say a black art, but that is another discussion.

The science comes in the form of water chemistry and knowledge of the requirements of the fish. The art pretty much covers everything else from they way the tank looks to the mixture of fish you keep.

\\Steve//

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19054 From: Clubsprint Date: 9/24/2006
Subject: New member Hello/Questions
Hello all
I'm new to the group and sort of new to keeping fish.
I'm from Melbourne, Australia (south eastern suburbs) and have recently updated
my fishbowl to a 30lt sort of self contained tank. It has a undergravel filter
attached to a "power head". I bought the setup from a family on ebay. It came with
heater, chemicals, test kits, light and powerhead pump.
I've moved my 1 goldfish and 6 Danios from the impractical bowl into this new
tank and it looks wonderful. My questions are:
Do I leave the pump on all the time? The fish seem to be pretty busy keeping up with the
current generated by the pump. Could this be too much? I don't want to exhaust them.
I have the outlet just under the surface at the top.
Will the Goldfish and the Danios cope with the tank heated so that I can
introduce some neon tetras?
I look forward to your responses.

regards to all
Mark J
Australia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19055 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Sorry, I believe you are wrong. The problem was the amount of salt she used, and adding it all at once, not the type of salt she used. There is nothing in marine salt that is harmful to freshwater fish other than the amount used.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 11:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

To freshwater? that sounds dangerous esp for a beginer since they are also prone to over medicating. If it was freshwater salt or non iodizing salt his fish wouldnt be dieing now.

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: IO = Instant Ocean salt mix.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

What is IO salt?

Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: Steve , I agree with you and I use IO salt all the time on freshwater. The only thing is the buffers in the salt mix, my have raised the ph possibly ?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:10 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

Joe,

That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any deleterious effects from its use.

The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate them.

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm water process, something has gone
terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
down to 80.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi -
>
>I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
>response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am doing
>the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
>cichlid forum. Here is the link -
><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
>At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> >
> >\\Steve//
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
> ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogr
> oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> >To:
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19056 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Updates to the Photography Museum...
Here are some more aquatic buddies from my trip to SF. I'm curious to
see what you guys think about the cosmic jellyfish.

http://tinyurl.com/ek74a <http://tinyurl.com/ek74a>

Remember if you hit the play button at the top of the screen you'll get
a slide show.

Regards,

Arthur



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19057 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Joseph, You have a lot to learn, my friend, and I would advise you
to purchase and read a few aquarium books on the basics of the
subject, especially the information pertaining to disease control and
also what might be offered concerning osmotic pressure in fishes,
both marine and freshwater. I'd also like to advise you not to post
information or your own conjecture on subjects you are not familiar
with, as such information can be dangerous.

I noticed your first post has already been addressed, and correctly
so. As for your present post, I would first like to know what you
mean by "freshwater salt," unless you mean that salt which does not
have all the trace elements that marine salt has (they are both
primarily sodium chloride, with table salt having none of the other
elements). If you had any knowledge of osmotic pressure in fish you
would know that adding this much salt (regardless of what type) --
all at once to a fish's environment -- will send their system into
shock and dehydrate them and can cause their deaths. Please do not
post unless you know what you're talking about. This is a plea, not
an insult. Erroneous information is far too dangerous here for the
beginner hobbyist to have to deal with. Incidentally, FYI, the
progressive salt method of treating fish for certain diseases is not
considered "medicating," but instead is one of the oldest and safest
methods you can use on fish when done in a manner in which they can
more slowly acclimate; a method which you should have long since
learned about if you've done much reading up on fish keeping. In
this case of Ich, it was not necessary to even go into this method,
but just to add only enough salt to make it difficult for the Ich.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> To freshwater? that sounds dangerous esp for a beginer since they
are also prone to over medicating. If it was freshwater salt or non
iodizing salt his fish wouldnt be dieing now.
>
> Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: IO = Instant Ocean salt
mix.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joseph Reid
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
>
> What is IO salt?
>
> Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: Steve , I agree with you and I
use IO salt all the time on freshwater. The only thing is the buffers
in the salt mix, my have raised the ph possibly ?
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:10 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
>
> Joe,
>
> That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand
rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any
deleterious effects from its use.
>
> The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large
a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in
the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
>
> is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your
surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate
them.
>
> ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm
water process, something has gone
> terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
> bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
> on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
> right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
> down to 80.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Hi -
> >
> >I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
> >response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am
doing
> >the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
> >cichlid forum. Here is the link -
> ><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-
forum.com/articles/ich.php
> >
> >At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> > >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> > >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> > >
> > >\\Steve//
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From:
> > ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogr
> > oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> > >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> > >To:
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19058 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Joseph, P.S.: Marine salts will not suffocate a fish, please know
this. Actually, except for the possibility of too much buffering
which has been pointed out (although in smaller amounts, I tend to
doubt it), marine salt is about the best form of sodium chloride (+
trace elements) you can supply to your freshwater fish when needed,
albeit more expensive, mainly because of these other elements. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your
surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate
them.
>
> ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the
salt/warm water process, something has gone
> terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
> bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
> on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
> right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
> down to 80.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Hi -
> >
> >I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
> >response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am
doing
> >the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
> >cichlid forum. Here is the link -
> ><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-
forum.com/articles/ich.php
> >
> >At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> > >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> > >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> > >
> > >\\Steve//
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From:
> > ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogr
> > oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> > >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> > >To:
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19059 From: thedakotawinds Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: South Dakota: Blue Blushing Angels and a Beautiful Betta
Greetings everyone,

I have two blue blushing angelfish and a beautiful Blue Red Betta (all
home raised) and the betta was raised by a lady who breeds show
bettas. I would like to trade these for some Dwarf Gourami's if
anyone has any? I would prefer honey dwarf gourami or dwarf flame red
gouramis, but regular dwarf gourami would be welcomed too. The Betta
is a $15.00 Betta and the angels cost $7.00 each when I got them at least.

If anyone is interested in a exchange, let me know. Please write me
at; AquaticElf@...

Sorry, I have no pictures of these as I have no camera to do so, but I
can tell you, they are beautiful.

Ivan
South Dakota
USA
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19060 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Hi Jeannie, I regret not having to been able to get back here to you
sooner, but it appears as if the damage has already been done. Sorry
to hear of the loss of your little guy. All species have their
tolerance for a change of their environnment. As your 5 Tbs. per 10
gallons (1.5 teaspoons per gallon) would not seem to be too much to
add at one time, it apparently was to much of a change in osmotic
pressure for these fish to take (possibly because of their size).
Except for hardier fish which can tolerate more, it is generally
agreed to be able to add 1 teaspoon per gallon (per day -- in the
case of needing to add more, as with a progressive salt treatment).
Generally, it is sufficient to use 1 Tbs per 5 gallons (0.6 tsp per
gallon) when treating Ich, the heat doing the major work in
eradicating the disease.

Depending on how long the salt had been in there, the 50% water
change may have added to the fishes osmotic shock by bouncing it
after their bodies were just getting used to the sudden new
pressure. A 25% water change may have been best, with another change
(33%) today to reduce the salt amount. Since they now have, and have
adjusted to, 3/4 of a tsp of salt per gallon, I'd leave it where it
is (that's fine), but would gradually start raising the temperature
to 86 o. While 80 o will speed up the life cycle of the Ich (and
somewhat increase the fishes immune systems), this will not in itself
get rid of the Ich; only an Ich medication will kill off the parasite
at this level, which you will not be using. Ich loses its ability to
reproduce at 86 o and above, which, given time will show the gradual
decrease of the parasite on your fish. At may take as long as 10
days (perhaps sooner) to completely get rid of the Ich, but do not
turn the heater down until 3 days after seeing the last of the Ich on
your fish, and then, turn it down gradually.

For best results in keeping the water as saturated as possible with
oxygen for the comfort of fish at this temperature, add an airstone
and/or increased the output (if possible), or direct the output of
the filter in such a way as to add more surface movement. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray:
>
> I added 5 Tbsp of salt to my 10 gallon tank, which apparently was
the
> wrong thing to do as my real tough guppy has keeled over and died
in
> the few hours since being at church. I did a 50% water change
before
> leaving in the hope of getting the darn salt out, but that did not
> save the cute little guy. Everyone else seems to be coming around
> albeit some sluggishness and a lack of appetite in all but the lone
> surviving male. One guppy is hanging near the filter's intake, and
> she looks speckled so the ich is probably affecting her right
> now. What should I do? The water temp is just above 80
> degrees. Should I bring the water temp back up and continue with
the
> salt? Thank you.
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 10:01 AM 9/24/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Jeannie, It would appear you are trying to treat for Ich. I noticed
> >and went up to the site (Cichlid Forum) you outlined in your
previous
> >post. There apparently are a number of slightly different ways to
go
> >with using the salt and heat method. I did notice the site
> >recommended using from 1.75 Tablespoons of salt per 5 gallon to 6
> >Tablespoons of salt per 5 gallons. How much salt are you using.
> >This is a case where more is not necessarily better.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19061 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Thank you, Ray. I appreciate your help and will do exactly as you
say from now on. I hope you're okay with the Melafix.

Jeannie

At 10:22 AM 9/25/2006, you wrote:

>Hi Jeannie, I regret not having to been able to get back here to you
>sooner, but it appears as if the damage has already been done. Sorry
>to hear of the loss of your little guy. All species have their
>tolerance for a change of their environnment. As your 5 Tbs. per 10
>gallons (1.5 teaspoons per gallon) would not seem to be too much to
>add at one time, it apparently was to much of a change in osmotic
>pressure for these fish to take (possibly because of their size).
>Except for hardier fish which can tolerate more, it is generally
>agreed to be able to add 1 teaspoon per gallon (per day -- in the
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19062 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Thank you all for your help with what I considered (and still do
after reading the insightful comments about using salt) to be a more
natural and safe method. What I realize is that too much salt was
added too quickly. It is too bad for me and 4 of the 5 guppies, who
have since died, that I had to learn the hard way.

This morning, I changed over 30% of the water. This was also done
yesterday, as well, in the hope of saving the two who ended up dying
overnight, and the third, who is still alive and swimming around.

A man at Petco told me to try that natural liquid, Melafix -
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/melafix.php - I removed the
carbon from the filter before adding 5 ml to my 10 gallon tank. I
hope and pray that this is an okay product to use. The temp is also
up to 86 degrees in the hope of getting rid of any ich in the
water. I also replaced all of the live plants with artificial ones
after reading that they too may have the ich.

Could I get some advice on when I might know that the water is safe
enough to get the lone survivor a new buddy or two?

Thanks, so much for all your help.


Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19063 From: toolfan1987 Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Sand broke my filter!!!
...In my freshwater tank... what do I do? Unsettled sand sucked into
the filter and broke the pump :( I don't want to get the same filter
and have it break again! Is there a better kind of filter I can get,
or do you think it will be okay if I wait for the sand to settle?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19064 From: Dawn Kaiser Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
Yes, you were right to send me to my water conditions rather than a Gourami-specific unusual disease. Usually the simple approach is the right one, and I was acting like "House" looking for obscure diagnoses!

Here's what I think really happened: I had recently added a CO2 system for my plants, and that was dropping my pH with the resultig carbonic acid. It hadn't occurred to me that the pH could be off because that tank's pH has been very stable for a long time. But now that I'm slowly raising the pH, the fish are looking much better -- except for one Gourami whop appears to have some fungus, probably from the stress.

So a new question: can I put an anti-fungal in the planted community tank, or should I put him into a hospital tank? I don't have a hospital tank set up so I'd much prefer the first option.

Thanks for the wisdom, Joseph.

Sherri

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19065 From: sskmajd Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New aquarium with cloudy water and brown algae
At first the cloudiness was whitish, and now it's gone green! I must
have been the lucky winner of both kinds of bloom. Ammonia and
nitites are at zero, and phosphates are close to zero, but I have
about 40 ppm of nitrates. I did a 1/3 water change to remove as many
nutrients as possible and have turned off the light and covered the
tank to deprive the algae of light. How long should I keep it
covered, or do you advise against this method? (Seems like it could
be psychologically hard on the fish, though perhaps I am
anthropomorphizing.) I've successfully dealt with algae blooms like
this before.

Also, as for the feeding, these goldfish eat a ton and eat it
quickly. Two of them, who came from a ten gallon, have literally
doubled their size in the last six weeks and are now perhaps four
inches long not counting finnage and about the size of a small egg
around. Do you think I am feeding too much? I am probably within
the two-minute rule you suggest, but that's still a ton of food --
maybe 30 pellets for the three fish.

And just as you were compelled to advise me on a 90-gallon tank for
three piddly fish, I am compelled to say: 90 gallons??!? What have
I gotten myself into?

Thanks for your good advice -- Sherri

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Cloudy water often happens in a new tank. It is called "new tank
> syndrome". This is not to say it happens every time, but often
enough.
> If the cloudiness is whitish or grey, then it is a bacterial bloom--
most
> likely what you are seeing with brown algae. If it is green, then
it is
> an algal bloom. Best thing to do in either case I to live with it,
it
> should exhaust itself in a few weeks.
>
> The brown algae is a bit more worrisome, though not the end of the
> world. Brown algae is not so dependent on light as green algae is,
which
> does make it a bit more difficult to remove. Algae generally needs
two
> things to grow--food and light. Apparently you have a low light
level in
> your tank--just a guess--so decreasing the amount of light may not
be a
> viable option. You will need to remove the food source for the
algae to
> be truly successful in removing it. This would mean you need for the
> tank to finish its cycle, so the nitrogenous wastes are not
contributing
> to its growth. The end product of the cycle is nitrates, which also
> serves as a food source. With goldfish, you are better off doing
regular
> large water changes, say 25% minimum to keep the nitrates in line.
>
> Phosphates are another food source of algae. This requires a
special kit
> to measure, and is generally brought in via your water supply or the
> foods you may be feeding. There is not much you can do if it is in
your
> tap water, but if it is from the food, changing the food can help
reduce
> it, if not eliminate it.
>
> Watch how much you are feeding. The fish should not get more than
they
> can eat within a couple of minutes. Goldfish should have a diet
that is
> high in vegetable matter. Cut back on the feeding if you are feeding
> more than that, and if you are feeding more than once a day feed
what
> they will eat in a factor of the 2 minutes so they do not get more
than
> 2 minute during the day to eat.
>
> Finally, and there will be some disappointment from some of the
readers
> of this list if I do not mention it, when your fish grow, and become
> adults, they will need approximately 30 gallons of water each. You
> should plan accordingly to increase the amount of tank space for
them as
> they grow. Of course, getting a 90 gallon tank right now will not
hurt,
> but then you give up the delight of having a number of smaller
tanks to
> fill with fish as the goldfish graduate to larger and larger tanks.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19066 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
The Melafix is fine, although it will not directly act on the Ich, and
is really not needed in the cure; its not an Ich cure in itself. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you, Ray. I appreciate your help and will do exactly as you
> say from now on. I hope you're okay with the Melafix.
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 10:22 AM 9/25/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Hi Jeannie, I regret not having to been able to get back here to you
> >sooner, but it appears as if the damage has already been done. Sorry
> >to hear of the loss of your little guy. All species have their
> >tolerance for a change of their environnment. As your 5 Tbs. per 10
> >gallons (1.5 teaspoons per gallon) would not seem to be too much to
> >add at one time, it apparently was to much of a change in osmotic
> >pressure for these fish to take (possibly because of their size).
> >Except for hardier fish which can tolerate more, it is generally
> >agreed to be able to add 1 teaspoon per gallon (per day -- in the
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19067 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Sorry to hear of the lose of these other fish which have died since.
The addition water change you did this morning has reduced the salt
level to that which is normally used with the heat treatment of Ich,
but do not add any back at this time. Treatments are effective with
just using heat alone, so salt is not totally necessary.

Melafix is a good product and safe to use with your fish, but it is
not an Ich cure in itself. It will help heal the damaged skin areas
of the fish where the Ich has attached, once those Trophonts have
dropped off. The addtion of salt will stimulate the skin to produce
additional amounts of the protective slime (mucous) coating, and with
the reduction of this, the Melafix will now help in that effort.

It was not at all necessary to replace your live plants, as they
cannot contract the Ich disease, nor can they attract this parasite.
In other words, the plants can't harbour the Ich Trophonts as can the
fish, although they can be a resting place for the Tomonts (cyst --
resting stage), but then so can the substrate or any other surface in
the aquarium. But, above 86 o, these resting Tomonts can no longer
multiply, so it really wasn't needed to remove all your plants as any
cysts subjected to that temperature would no longer be viable. For
that matter, you might just as well have (unnecessarily) removed all
your substrate, to be sure! Again, it seems as if you read
something, possibly from that Cichlid-Forum website, but weren't
quite sure what you read.

As previously mentioned, it can be ascertained that the your fish are
over the Ich infestation after three days of not seeing any more
signs of it. After that time, you can get a new buddy or two, after
you have reduced the temperature to normal -- which may take at least
a couple of days. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you all for your help with what I considered (and still do
> after reading the insightful comments about using salt) to be a
more
> natural and safe method. What I realize is that too much salt was
> added too quickly. It is too bad for me and 4 of the 5 guppies,
who
> have since died, that I had to learn the hard way.
>
> This morning, I changed over 30% of the water. This was also done
> yesterday, as well, in the hope of saving the two who ended up
dying
> overnight, and the third, who is still alive and swimming around.
>
> A man at Petco told me to try that natural liquid, Melafix -
> http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/melafix.php - I removed the
> carbon from the filter before adding 5 ml to my 10 gallon tank. I
> hope and pray that this is an okay product to use. The temp is
also
> up to 86 degrees in the hope of getting rid of any ich in the
> water. I also replaced all of the live plants with artificial ones
> after reading that they too may have the ich.
>
> Could I get some advice on when I might know that the water is safe
> enough to get the lone survivor a new buddy or two?
>
> Thanks, so much for all your help.
>
>
> Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
> Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com
> :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
> Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
> http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
> sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19068 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
Hello and welcome to the group! I am also new to fish keeping. I am not sure about your danios but as far as your Goldfish is concerned they like cool waters. I really dont know the first thing about any other fish but goldfish. Are you sure that Goldfish are compatible with Danios?

Clubsprint <clubsprint@...> wrote: Hello all
I'm new to the group and sort of new to keeping fish.
I'm from Melbourne, Australia (south eastern suburbs) and have recently updated
my fishbowl to a 30lt sort of self contained tank. It has a undergravel filter
attached to a "power head". I bought the setup from a family on ebay. It came with
heater, chemicals, test kits, light and powerhead pump.
I've moved my 1 goldfish and 6 Danios from the impractical bowl into this new
tank and it looks wonderful. My questions are:
Do I leave the pump on all the time? The fish seem to be pretty busy keeping up with the
current generated by the pump. Could this be too much? I don't want to exhaust them.
I have the outlet just under the surface at the top.
Will the Goldfish and the Danios cope with the tank heated so that I can
introduce some neon tetras?
I look forward to your responses.

regards to all
Mark J
Australia



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19069 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
Well to start with you have different types of fish with different types of needs in the tank world. Goldfish are a cold water fish therefore they dont need the heater. Where as danios is a tropical fish and need the heater say around 75F. The pump is fine where it is and also to be on all the time. Its surpose to. They might just not be use to it yet where they were in a little bowl with no movement at all. They will adjust thats how it is for them in the wild. Good Luck.

Clubsprint <clubsprint@...> wrote: Hello all
I'm new to the group and sort of new to keeping fish.
I'm from Melbourne, Australia (south eastern suburbs) and have recently updated
my fishbowl to a 30lt sort of self contained tank. It has a undergravel filter
attached to a "power head". I bought the setup from a family on ebay. It came with
heater, chemicals, test kits, light and powerhead pump.
I've moved my 1 goldfish and 6 Danios from the impractical bowl into this new
tank and it looks wonderful. My questions are:
Do I leave the pump on all the time? The fish seem to be pretty busy keeping up with the
current generated by the pump. Could this be too much? I don't want to exhaust them.
I have the outlet just under the surface at the top.
Will the Goldfish and the Danios cope with the tank heated so that I can
introduce some neon tetras?
I look forward to your responses.

regards to all
Mark J
Australia


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19070 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
so your telling me addind iondized salt to my tank is safe and could create a salt water tank?

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Joseph, You have a lot to learn, my friend, and I would advise you
to purchase and read a few aquarium books on the basics of the
subject, especially the information pertaining to disease control and
also what might be offered concerning osmotic pressure in fishes,
both marine and freshwater. I'd also like to advise you not to post
information or your own conjecture on subjects you are not familiar
with, as such information can be dangerous.

I noticed your first post has already been addressed, and correctly
so. As for your present post, I would first like to know what you
mean by "freshwater salt," unless you mean that salt which does not
have all the trace elements that marine salt has (they are both
primarily sodium chloride, with table salt having none of the other
elements). If you had any knowledge of osmotic pressure in fish you
would know that adding this much salt (regardless of what type) --
all at once to a fish's environment -- will send their system into
shock and dehydrate them and can cause their deaths. Please do not
post unless you know what you're talking about. This is a plea, not
an insult. Erroneous information is far too dangerous here for the
beginner hobbyist to have to deal with. Incidentally, FYI, the
progressive salt method of treating fish for certain diseases is not
considered "medicating," but instead is one of the oldest and safest
methods you can use on fish when done in a manner in which they can
more slowly acclimate; a method which you should have long since
learned about if you've done much reading up on fish keeping. In
this case of Ich, it was not necessary to even go into this method,
but just to add only enough salt to make it difficult for the Ich.
Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> To freshwater? that sounds dangerous esp for a beginer since they
are also prone to over medicating. If it was freshwater salt or non
iodizing salt his fish wouldnt be dieing now.
>
> Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: IO = Instant Ocean salt
mix.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joseph Reid
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
>
> What is IO salt?
>
> Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote: Steve , I agree with you and I
use IO salt all the time on freshwater. The only thing is the buffers
in the salt mix, my have raised the ph possibly ?
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:10 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
>
> Joe,
>
> That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand
rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any
deleterious effects from its use.
>
> The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large
a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in
the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
>
> is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your
surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate
them.
>
> ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm
water process, something has gone
> terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
> bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
> on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
> right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
> down to 80.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Hi -
> >
> >I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
> >response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am
doing
> >the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
> >cichlid forum. Here is the link -
> ><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-
forum.com/articles/ich.php
> >
> >At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> > >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> > >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> > >
> > >\\Steve//
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From:
> > ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogr
> > oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> > >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> > >To:
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ---------------------------------
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> Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
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((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
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((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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>
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19071 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Have you ever given a saltwater fish a freshwater bath they grasp for air because the gills are different to adjust to the salt content at least thats what ive read unless you have something to read that states otherwise and im not talking about your opions and what you experimented with.

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Joseph, P.S.: Marine salts will not suffocate a fish, please know
this. Actually, except for the possibility of too much buffering
which has been pointed out (although in smaller amounts, I tend to
doubt it), marine salt is about the best form of sodium chloride (+
trace elements) you can supply to your freshwater fish when needed,
albeit more expensive, mainly because of these other elements. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your
surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate
them.
>
> ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: Whatever I did in the
salt/warm water process, something has gone
> terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
> bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty things
> on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was the
> right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
> down to 80.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Hi -
> >
> >I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
> >response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am
doing
> >the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
> >cichlid forum. Here is the link -
> ><http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-
forum.com/articles/ich.php
> >
> >At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body and
> > >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white spots
> > >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> > >
> > >\\Steve//
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From:
> > ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogr
> > oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> > >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> > >To:
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19072 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: Sand broke my filter!!!
What type of filter was it? How did it break it?

toolfan1987 <toolfan1987@...> wrote: ...In my freshwater tank... what do I do? Unsettled sand sucked into
the filter and broke the pump :( I don't want to get the same filter
and have it break again! Is there a better kind of filter I can get,
or do you think it will be okay if I wait for the sand to settle?





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19073 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
A 30 liter tank converts to about 8 gallons (for those in the US who
aren't quick at doing the conversion). As the goldfish grows, you'll
eventually need to move up to about a 100 liter tank (just under 30
gallons) just for the goldfish.

Goldfish should not be kept with other types of fish. Your goldfish has
different needs from the danios, foremost among them diet and
temperature. So, you should start thinking about another tank for the
danio. Danios, no matter which species, do need some room to swim--they
are fast moving fish, and like to do a lot of moving around. They are
mainly omnivores, eating anything they can find, but they prefer a
meatier diet. Goldfish are also omnivores, but definitely prefer a diet
on the vegetarian side. They also prefer lower temperatures, room
temperature and below. The danios prefer higher temperatures.

Sure, they will live together for some time, but someone will eventually
be unhappy about the surroundings and diet. Best thing to do is to
separate them as soon as you possibly can, into different tanks.

The pump should be kept running all the time. You have an undergravel
filter (not a real good choice with goldfish, but it will suffice) which
is providing you with your filtration. It will act as a biological
filter as well as a mechanical filter. Each time you do a water change,
you should clean part of the gravel so as not to unduly disturb the
biological filtration. The large diameter tubes you may have seen at the
end of a smaller diameter hose is what you need to clean the gravel. It
will suck the gravel partially up the large diameter tube and the
lighter detritus will separate and go up the smaller diameter tube. Of
course, too high a flow rate, and the gravel will also travel out the
tank, but you can control that.

If you need some information on the biological cycle, look in the
archives for the many threads on it here to get you started.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Clubsprint
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 1:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New member Hello/Questions

Hello all
I'm new to the group and sort of new to keeping fish.
I'm from Melbourne, Australia (south eastern suburbs) and have recently
updated
my fishbowl to a 30lt sort of self contained tank. It has a undergravel
filter
attached to a "power head". I bought the setup from a family on ebay. It
came with
heater, chemicals, test kits, light and powerhead pump.
I've moved my 1 goldfish and 6 Danios from the impractical bowl into
this new
tank and it looks wonderful. My questions are:
Do I leave the pump on all the time? The fish seem to be pretty busy
keeping up with the
current generated by the pump. Could this be too much? I don't want to
exhaust them.
I have the outlet just under the surface at the top.
Will the Goldfish and the Danios cope with the tank heated so that I can

introduce some neon tetras?
I look forward to your responses.

regards to all
Mark J
Australia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19074 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: sick dwarf gouramis
It is always best to treat a sick fish, or a number of fish in a
separate tank. However, it is not always the easiest thing in the world
to accomplish. if you are going to leave the fish in the community tank,
read the directions on your choice of anti-fungal compound completely
and thoroughly. Look for adverse effects on your other fish, perhaps
needing a reduction in dosage, which means it will take longer to effect
a cure.

With a hospital tank, you have much more control. You know exactly how
much water is in the tank, you can set the temperature to the optimum
without worrying what it will do to the other fish or your plants, etc.
The single fish or group of fish can then be treated in optimum
conditions, resulting in a faster, more complete cure. If you keep an
air driven sponge filter in a corner of a tank for such emergencies, you
do not even need to worry about a cycle in the hospital tank. Simply
transfer the filter, and the bacteria go along for the road trip.

(Oh yes, I can see it now. The bacteria breaking out the beer, toasting
each other, yelling "Road Trip!, Road Trip!" Oh what fun!)


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn Kaiser
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 11:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: sick dwarf gouramis

Yes, you were right to send me to my water conditions rather than a
Gourami-specific unusual disease. Usually the simple approach is the
right one, and I was acting like "House" looking for obscure diagnoses!

Here's what I think really happened: I had recently added a CO2 system
for my plants, and that was dropping my pH with the resultig carbonic
acid. It hadn't occurred to me that the pH could be off because that
tank's pH has been very stable for a long time. But now that I'm slowly
raising the pH, the fish are looking much better -- except for one
Gourami whop appears to have some fungus, probably from the stress.

So a new question: can I put an anti-fungal in the planted community
tank, or should I put him into a hospital tank? I don't have a hospital
tank set up so I'd much prefer the first option.

Thanks for the wisdom, Joseph.

Sherri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19075 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New aquarium with cloudy water and brown algae
Just removing the light should be enough, unless the ambient lighting is
very strong. You can do away with the covering. Just maintaining your
normal water change schedule should be enough, unless there is something
to indicate that there is a problem that needs frequent water changes.

I do like the fact that both your nitrites and ammonia are 0. That is
good. With that 30% change, your nitrates should have also dropped. This
should help in decreasing the cloudiness. These blooms usually don't
last more than a week or two, so you should be in pretty good shape.

A full grown goldfish will need about 30 gallons of water to give it
space and enough to dilute the wastes it produces before it can be
processed by the tank. Not much you can do to change that. Do that and
you should have your babies for 20 years or more, provided the receive
the other care they should (good food, clean water, proper temperatures,
etc.).


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sskmajd
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 11:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New aquarium with cloudy water and brown
algae

At first the cloudiness was whitish, and now it's gone green! I must
have been the lucky winner of both kinds of bloom. Ammonia and
nitites are at zero, and phosphates are close to zero, but I have
about 40 ppm of nitrates. I did a 1/3 water change to remove as many
nutrients as possible and have turned off the light and covered the
tank to deprive the algae of light. How long should I keep it
covered, or do you advise against this method? (Seems like it could
be psychologically hard on the fish, though perhaps I am
anthropomorphizing.) I've successfully dealt with algae blooms like
this before.

Also, as for the feeding, these goldfish eat a ton and eat it
quickly. Two of them, who came from a ten gallon, have literally
doubled their size in the last six weeks and are now perhaps four
inches long not counting finnage and about the size of a small egg
around. Do you think I am feeding too much? I am probably within
the two-minute rule you suggest, but that's still a ton of food --
maybe 30 pellets for the three fish.

And just as you were compelled to advise me on a 90-gallon tank for
three piddly fish, I am compelled to say: 90 gallons??!? What have
I gotten myself into?

Thanks for your good advice -- Sherri

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Cloudy water often happens in a new tank. It is called "new tank
> syndrome". This is not to say it happens every time, but often
enough.
> If the cloudiness is whitish or grey, then it is a bacterial bloom--
most
> likely what you are seeing with brown algae. If it is green, then
it is
> an algal bloom. Best thing to do in either case I to live with it,
it
> should exhaust itself in a few weeks.
>
> The brown algae is a bit more worrisome, though not the end of the
> world. Brown algae is not so dependent on light as green algae is,
which
> does make it a bit more difficult to remove. Algae generally needs
two
> things to grow--food and light. Apparently you have a low light
level in
> your tank--just a guess--so decreasing the amount of light may not
be a
> viable option. You will need to remove the food source for the
algae to
> be truly successful in removing it. This would mean you need for the
> tank to finish its cycle, so the nitrogenous wastes are not
contributing
> to its growth. The end product of the cycle is nitrates, which also
> serves as a food source. With goldfish, you are better off doing
regular
> large water changes, say 25% minimum to keep the nitrates in line.
>
> Phosphates are another food source of algae. This requires a
special kit
> to measure, and is generally brought in via your water supply or the
> foods you may be feeding. There is not much you can do if it is in
your
> tap water, but if it is from the food, changing the food can help
reduce
> it, if not eliminate it.
>
> Watch how much you are feeding. The fish should not get more than
they
> can eat within a couple of minutes. Goldfish should have a diet
that is
> high in vegetable matter. Cut back on the feeding if you are feeding
> more than that, and if you are feeding more than once a day feed
what
> they will eat in a factor of the 2 minutes so they do not get more
than
> 2 minute during the day to eat.
>
> Finally, and there will be some disappointment from some of the
readers
> of this list if I do not mention it, when your fish grow, and become
> adults, they will need approximately 30 gallons of water each. You
> should plan accordingly to increase the amount of tank space for
them as
> they grow. Of course, getting a 90 gallon tank right now will not
hurt,
> but then you give up the delight of having a number of smaller
tanks to
> fill with fish as the goldfish graduate to larger and larger tanks.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19076 From: harry perry Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: Fishies dad????/Jennifer
4 feet long!!!!!! good grief. Don't fall asleep around him.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Harry,

I do care about fish and all of the animals I have. I never get an animal with the intent to destroy it. You should have seen me when I first got my Iguana. He was soo little and not more than 2-3 months old. Well, now I have had him a little over two years and he is over 4 feet long and meaner than ever! Even though he lunges and tries to bite me I still love him more than ever. When I decided to get fish it is because my husband travels 97% with his company and I thought fish would keep me occupied. Well, they do. I have done nothing but research these fish. My sister bought her 6 yr old son goldfish and I started to tell her about doing the weekly water changes and the toxic waste and the water temps and the oxygen etc. and she said that I must be the only person in the world who care about goldfish like that?!

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
Thank you, that was sweet.

I'm not the father of these fish, but I understand your meaning exactly.

You seem to honestly care about fish. That's all it takes, that and a desire to learn. Please keep in touch.

Harry

Jennifer Kokoruda wrote: I will do just that then! I will wait until tomorrow though when I can clean that tank and change the water and then I will move him right in. Thanks for your patience and understanding! I have to say your fishies are lucky to have a dad like you!

harry perry wrote: I think that would be a good idea. And totally logical.

Harry

Jennifer wrote: Harry,

Do you think that I should move Socrates into the 10 gallon tank where
he is by himself until we are finished with our move and then buy him
his own 55 gallon tank?

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19077 From: Clubsprint Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
>From: Jennifer Kokoruda
>Are you sure that Goldfish are compatible with Danios?
Now idea. That is what the guy in the pet shop sold my wife
to keep with our existing goldfish which has since passed on.
Mark
Aus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19078 From: Clubsprint Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
From: Joseph Reid
>Well to start with you have different types of fish with different
>types of needs in the tank world. Goldfish are a cold water
>fish therefore they dont need the heater. Where as danios is a
>tropical fish and need the heater say around 75F.
OK, looks like I'm trying to find a home for my goldfish then.

>The pump is fine where it is and also to be on all the time.
>Its surpose to. They might just not be use to it yet where they
>were in a little bowl with no movement at all. They will adjust
>thats how it is for them in the wild. Good Luck.
That's good to know. I thought as much but they sort of looked
a bit worn out so I was worried they'd get exhausted (is that laughing I
hear).
Thanks for the info.
Mark
Aus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19079 From: Clubsprint Date: 9/25/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
>From: Steve Szabo
>Goldfish should not be kept with other types of fish. Your goldfish
>has different needs from the danios, foremost among them
>diet and temperature. So, you should start thinking about another
I'll be looking for another home for the goldfish.

>they are fast moving fish, and like to do a lot of moving around.
They sure are, they used to race around the outside of the bowl.

>The pump should be kept running all the time. You have an undergravel
Yep I'll keep it on. I practiced with the syphon vacuum when I
emptied out the the old bowl so I should be OK come water change time.
I'll only clean small sections of the gravel at a time.

Thanks very much for the info

Regards
Mark
Aus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19080 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
I read in books that they breathe differently?



Steve Szabo wrote:

Joe,

That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any deleterious effects from its use.

The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19081 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Back to the difference between Saltwater and Freshwater Fish. The salt in either fish's body remains constant and at about the same level. So for a fish body to work efficiently, it must maintain its internal salt water balance at a constant level, despite the salt concentration in their environment's water. To keep their salt levels constant, membranes that permit osmosis primarily in the fish's gills, evolved and adapted to the salt concentration in the environment. These membranes regulate the amount of salt that seeps through the membrane into the fish's body fluid to maintain it's constant salt level.
Another difference between freshwater fish and saltwater fish is their breathing apparatus. Like us, fish require oxygen for life. How they remove the oxygen from the water and transfer it to their cells is called respiration. Freshwater contains only 5% of the oxygen present in air, while saltwater contains 20% less oxygen than freshwater. That subtle difference required adapting to how efficiently fish pump water over their gills.
Some of the books from our affiliate Amazon.com also explain it in greater detail.

Thus it was probably easier to adapt from salt water to fresh water than the other way around. However, freshwater fish had to adapt to a completely different, rapidly changing and varied food environment. There are far more saltwater species than freshwater species.
Like us, the survivors adapted. It was another reason to evolve differently over the eons.


Steve Szabo wrote:

Sorry, I believe you are wrong. The problem was the amount of salt she used, and adding it all at once, not the type of salt she used. There is nothing in marine salt that is harmful to freshwater fish other than the amount used.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19082 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Contrary to popular opinion, yes iodized salt is safe for your
freshwater tank, although personally I would prefer plain uniodized
table salt. Studies have been done lately which find iodized salt to
be safe for freshwater aquariums with the minute amount of iodine
this salt contains.

When this topic first started, it was with the idea of treating a
freshwater tank for Ich and is what Jeannie and I were discussing.
When mentioning iodized salt in this context, it was not with the
assumption that it could be used for a salt water tank, as you are
suggesting. I am not telling you that iodized salt can be used to
create a salt water tank (please go back to the original thread).
Even if the iodine were safe for marine fish, these animals need all
the trace elements, in their proper proportions, as found in a marine
mix salt. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> so your telling me addind iondized salt to my tank is safe and
could create a salt water tank?
>
> Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Joseph, You have
a lot to learn, my friend, and I would advise you
> to purchase and read a few aquarium books on the basics of the
> subject, especially the information pertaining to disease control
and
> also what might be offered concerning osmotic pressure in fishes,
> both marine and freshwater. I'd also like to advise you not to post
> information or your own conjecture on subjects you are not familiar
> with, as such information can be dangerous.
>
> I noticed your first post has already been addressed, and correctly
> so. As for your present post, I would first like to know what you
> mean by "freshwater salt," unless you mean that salt which does not
> have all the trace elements that marine salt has (they are both
> primarily sodium chloride, with table salt having none of the other
> elements). If you had any knowledge of osmotic pressure in fish you
> would know that adding this much salt (regardless of what type) --
> all at once to a fish's environment -- will send their system into
> shock and dehydrate them and can cause their deaths. Please do not
> post unless you know what you're talking about. This is a plea, not
> an insult. Erroneous information is far too dangerous here for the
> beginner hobbyist to have to deal with. Incidentally, FYI, the
> progressive salt method of treating fish for certain diseases is
not
> considered "medicating," but instead is one of the oldest and
safest
> methods you can use on fish when done in a manner in which they can
> more slowly acclimate; a method which you should have long since
> learned about if you've done much reading up on fish keeping. In
> this case of Ich, it was not necessary to even go into this method,
> but just to add only enough salt to make it difficult for the Ich.
> Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@>
> wrote:
> >
> > To freshwater? that sounds dangerous esp for a beginer since they
> are also prone to over medicating. If it was freshwater salt or non
> iodizing salt his fish wouldnt be dieing now.
> >
> > Sissy Sathre <ssathre@> wrote: IO = Instant Ocean salt
> mix.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Joseph Reid
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:13 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
> >
> > What is IO salt?
> >
> > Sissy Sathre <ssathre@> wrote: Steve , I agree with you and I
> use IO salt all the time on freshwater. The only thing is the
buffers
> in the salt mix, my have raised the ph possibly ?
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Steve Szabo
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:10 PM
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
> >
> > Joe,
> >
> > That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand
> rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any
> deleterious effects from its use.
> >
> > The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too
large
> a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes
in
> the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
> > Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
> >
> > is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your
> surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate
> them.
> >
> > ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm
> water process, something has gone
> > terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
> > bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty
things
> > on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was
the
> > right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
> > down to 80.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Jeannie
> >
> > At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >Hi -
> > >
> > >I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
> > >response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am
> doing
> > >the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
> > >cichlid forum. Here is the link -
> > ><http://www.cichlid-
forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-
> forum.com/articles/ich.php
> > >
> > >At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body
and
> > > >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white
spots
> > > >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> > > >
> > > >\\Steve//
> > > >-----Original Message-----
> > > >From:
> > > ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogr
> > > oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> > > >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> > > >To:
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
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> >
> >
> >
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>
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>
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> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19083 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Then that kind of statement would require cites of the literature. So far as I am aware, both fresh and marine fish breathe the same way--water passes over the gills where gaseous exchange is effected similar to our own lungs. At least some sharks, it is said, must remain in constant motion to get the water to flow over the gills, but most are able to generate the flow whether moving or "standing".


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 11:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

I read in books that they breathe differently?



Steve Szabo wrote:

Joe,

That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any deleterious effects from its use.

The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too large a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes in the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.

\\Steve//





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19084 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Earlier, you had mentioned giving marine fish a freshwater dip. You also stated that the fish were distressed by this. There is also the saltwater dip used for freshwater fish. The difference between the dips is that they last a short period of time, generally less than 15 minutes, sometimes much less. Using the dips can be effective for certain treatments, mainly removing external parasites from the fish which release from the fish in search of a more comfortable host--which they do not find.

Using salt as a treatment for freshwater fish is an accepted practice, and it is effective. The addition of salt serves several purposes. First, a natural reaction to the increased salinity increases the amount of mucous a fish produces--the slime coat. This helps the fish fight off whatever may be ailing it, particularly parasites. Second, it also has an effect on the parasites, often killing them out right, sometimes inhibiting their life cycle. The salt serves as an irritant--one component that increases the mucous production, but it also makes the fish more active, and therefore helps increase its appetite. A fish that is sick may not be eating normally, and this will help it get back to a more normal level of food, which will give it strength to fight off the infection.

While some think of salt as a cure-all, it really is not, but used judiciously, and properly, it can be an effective cure for many ailments.

I do not know the relative difference between the oxygen capacity of fresh and marine water off the top of my head. Thus I cannot comment on your statement. However, when used in the recommended quantities, salt added to a freshwater environment as a cure will barely register a difference in the specific gravity of the water, thus your argument really does not go anywhere. It does not matter what kind of salt is used--kosher, aquarium salt (really kosher salt as much higher prices), table salt, or a marine mix, it all serves the same purpose.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 2:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems

Back to the difference between Saltwater and Freshwater Fish. The salt in either fish's body remains constant and at about the same level. So for a fish body to work efficiently, it must maintain its internal salt water balance at a constant level, despite the salt concentration in their environment's water. To keep their salt levels constant, membranes that permit osmosis primarily in the fish's gills, evolved and adapted to the salt concentration in the environment. These membranes regulate the amount of salt that seeps through the membrane into the fish's body fluid to maintain it's constant salt level.
Another difference between freshwater fish and saltwater fish is their breathing apparatus. Like us, fish require oxygen for life. How they remove the oxygen from the water and transfer it to their cells is called respiration. Freshwater contains only 5% of the oxygen present in air, while saltwater contains 20% less oxygen than freshwater. That subtle difference required adapting to how efficiently fish pump water over their gills.
Some of the books from our affiliate Amazon.com also explain it in greater detail.

Thus it was probably easier to adapt from salt water to fresh water than the other way around. However, freshwater fish had to adapt to a completely different, rapidly changing and varied food environment. There are far more saltwater species than freshwater species.
Like us, the survivors adapted. It was another reason to evolve differently over the eons.


Steve Szabo wrote:

Sorry, I believe you are wrong. The problem was the amount of salt she used, and adding it all at once, not the type of salt she used. There is nothing in marine salt that is harmful to freshwater fish other than the amount used.

\\Steve//




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19085 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: New member Hello/Questions
Mark,

I am sorry to hear about the passing of the fish! I know it is hard. I went through several fish before I found this group and started doing things the right way. I have not lost anymore fish and I owe it all to this group and a lot of research.

Clubsprint <clubsprint@...> wrote:
>From: Jennifer Kokoruda
>Are you sure that Goldfish are compatible with Danios?
Now idea. That is what the guy in the pet shop sold my wife
to keep with our existing goldfish which has since passed on.
Mark
Aus




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19086 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
I have never had the opportunity nor the need to give a saltwater
fish a freshwater bath. What does this have to do with the topic at
hand -- using salt with freshwater fish? First of all, a "bath" (for
freshwater fish) implies the use of salt in a much heavier
concentration, for a much less period of time, than just adding
enough salt which would still make it liveable for a freshwater fish
for an indefinite period of time. Your "comparison" of giving a
saltwater fish a freshwater bath is not what we are discussing here.
I will tell you (not my opinion) that a freshwater fish given a bath
in a heavy concentration of salt will "tire" after a short time of
between 10 and 20 minutes, depending on the amount of salt used and
the species involved. At that time, the fish will be observed to
start rolling onto its side, at which time the fish should be
immediately returned to fresh water, but this has little to do with
the fish's ability (or inability) to obtain oxygen, even though the
difference in osmotic pressure is mostly directed at the gills where
most exchanges take place. Please note, a "bath" is not the same as
adding salts to (as in the case of freshwater fish), nor removing
salts from (as in the case of marine fish) a fish's environment in
much less concentrations; a "bath" is more extreme in the amount of
salt added or removed from the fish's water, be it freshwater or
marine.

I do fail to see why you are once again using marine fish here as an
analogy, since we are talking about freshwater fish. Marine fishes'
internal system has evolved to keep the higher salt content of their
environment, with a higher external osmotic pressure, out of their
bodies. It is just the opposite for freshwater fish; they have
evolved to maintain a balance, keeping most of their needed
electrolytes (salts content) from being lost to their much lesser
osmotic pressure environment. This still has nothing to do with the
take up of oxygen (and the release of carbon dioxide) by the fish,
even though both processes (gasous exchange and osmotic pressure) are
controlled by the gills. While on the subject, it is for this reason
that when a freshwater fish is physically injured, that it is most
beneficial to add salts to its environment to help decrease the loss
of its electrolytes directly through the wound; the salted water will
help equalize the osmotic pressure. Again, marine salts are of most
benefit here, it being more closely imitating the complete complement
of salts in the fish's make-up (but plain sodium chloride will do);
this is fact which doesn't need experimentation. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> Have you ever given a saltwater fish a freshwater bath they grasp
for air because the gills are different to adjust to the salt content
at least thats what ive read unless you have something to read that
states otherwise and im not talking about your opions and what you
experimented with.
>
> Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Joseph, P.S.:
Marine salts will not suffocate a fish, please know
> this. Actually, except for the possibility of too much buffering
> which has been pointed out (although in smaller amounts, I tend to
> doubt it), marine salt is about the best form of sodium chloride (+
> trace elements) you can supply to your freshwater fish when needed,
> albeit more expensive, mainly because of these other elements. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@>
> wrote:
> >
> > is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your
> surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate
> them.
> >
> > ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@> wrote: Whatever I did in the
> salt/warm water process, something has gone
> > terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
> > bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty
things
> > on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was
the
> > right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
> > down to 80.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Jeannie
> >
> > At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >Hi -
> > >
> > >I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
> > >response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am
> doing
> > >the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
> > >cichlid forum. Here is the link -
> > ><http://www.cichlid-
forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-
> forum.com/articles/ich.php
> > >
> > >At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body
and
> > > >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white
spots
> > > >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> > > >
> > > >\\Steve//
> > > >-----Original Message-----
> > > >From:
> > > ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogr
> > > oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> > > >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> > > >To:
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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Small Business.
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19087 From: eandtuta1924 Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Fire Mouth problem
I'm "fostering" a big gourgeous Fire Mouth for a friend and I just
noticed around his left side fin there are white "bubble" looking
spots all around the root of the fin. Does anyone know what it can be
and how to treat it? desperate for answers Magdalena
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19088 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fire Mouth problem
Magdalena,

Do the white spots look like bubbles or like someone sprinkled the fish with salt? If it looks more like salt then it is a high chance that it might be Ich. To cure Ich you can go to your local Walmart and but these fizzing tablets by Jungle called Ich cure.

eandtuta1924 <eandtuta1924@...> wrote:
I'm "fostering" a big gourgeous Fire Mouth for a friend and I just
noticed around his left side fin there are white "bubble" looking
spots all around the root of the fin. Does anyone know what it can be
and how to treat it? desperate for answers Magdalena





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19089 From: Jannine Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Companians for danios and barbs
Just to let you know it's not giant gouramis that I have, it's giant
danios, if that makes a difference. I was looking at the electric
yellow cichlid. Have always saw these kind in my pet store and liked
them. Let me know if this is compatable with what I have. Thanks



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nimish Mathur" <nimmat4@...> wrote:
>
> Jannine,
>
>
>
> With the likes of Giant gouramis and tiger barbs you can get away
with any
> fish that is not slow and that does not have long flowing fins.
Cichlids are
> an option as well but they can be slightly tricky depending on what
species
> you keep with what. Do you have any cichlids in mind?
>
> Apart from the cichlids, you can keep Rainbow fish, other barbs and
> rasboras, tetras, more danios, corydora catfish etc.
>
>
>
> Nim
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jannine
> Sent: 21 September 2006 15:26
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Companians for danios and barbs
>
>
>
> Ok, I am elisting the help of you guys here for the first time. I
> will be getting a 55 gallon tank soon and moving my 4 giant danios, 5
> tiger barbs and 1 pleco to it. What other inhabitants could I have
> with these guys? I was also wondering if any species of cichlid could
> be put with them as well. Thanks in advance for all advice.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19090 From: magdalena jones Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Fire Mouth problem
Hi Jennifer, no it's not ich, I know how that looks, it's more looking like eggs, 4-5 of them around the root of the fin.

Jennifer Kokoruda <greeniguana_12@...> wrote: Magdalena,

Do the white spots look like bubbles or like someone sprinkled the fish with salt? If it looks more like salt then it is a high chance that it might be Ich. To cure Ich you can go to your local Walmart and but these fizzing tablets by Jungle called Ich cure.

eandtuta1924 <eandtuta1924@...> wrote:
I'm "fostering" a big gourgeous Fire Mouth for a friend and I just
noticed around his left side fin there are white "bubble" looking
spots all around the root of the fin. Does anyone know what it can be
and how to treat it? desperate for answers Magdalena

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

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An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

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http://www.myspace.com/jenniferkokoruda



---------------------------------
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19091 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: School tank, STARTING OVER
One of the angels died over the weekend and when someone told the office
on Monday, they did nothing...left the dead fish in the tank. When I
get there today Tuesday, dead fish still there. OH! @#!* When I
mentioned that it should have been removed, the secretary gets offended
like it isn't her job to take out dead fish. Isn't it SOMEWHAT their
responsibility? She said flat out that she doesn't have time to even
look at the fish. Then they complained that there was brown stuff all
over the tank walls...when I asked if they had been turning off the
lights, well of course they haven't. BUT we can't put a timer on there
because the fire department yanked it as a fire hazard. ANYWAY...vent
over.

There is an angle, a dwarf blue gourami, 4-5 zebra danios. I want to
put in mollies (swordtails) & lots of guppies. Will this work w/ the
fish that are already in there? Oh and 2 small plecos which will be
traded in when they get too big.

Leslie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19092 From: Jennifer Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Completed
Hello all,

Well under the advisement of some of the people in this group I have
moved my Ple*o whose name is Socrates into his own tank. Being that he
is a tropical fish and temps differ from what my goldfish need he is
now in his own tank with alot of plants and hiding places and a water
temp of 80 degrees. I have been keeping a close eye on him just to see
how he does. I will keep everyone posted on his condition for the next
48 hours.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19093 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
No I wasnt suggesting it just asking if thats what you were trying to say. I just heard so many opions on salt that I just stuck with saltwater salt only for saltwater tanks. I understand the small amounts used to fight ick though.

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
Contrary to popular opinion, yes iodized salt is safe for your
freshwater tank, although personally I would prefer plain uniodized
table salt. Studies have been done lately which find iodized salt to
be safe for freshwater aquariums with the minute amount of iodine
this salt contains.

When this topic first started, it was with the idea of treating a
freshwater tank for Ich and is what Jeannie and I were discussing.
When mentioning iodized salt in this context, it was not with the
assumption that it could be used for a salt water tank, as you are
suggesting. I am not telling you that iodized salt can be used to
create a salt water tank (please go back to the original thread).
Even if the iodine were safe for marine fish, these animals need all
the trace elements, in their proper proportions, as found in a marine
mix salt. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> so your telling me addind iondized salt to my tank is safe and
could create a salt water tank?
>
> Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Joseph, You have
a lot to learn, my friend, and I would advise you
> to purchase and read a few aquarium books on the basics of the
> subject, especially the information pertaining to disease control
and
> also what might be offered concerning osmotic pressure in fishes,
> both marine and freshwater. I'd also like to advise you not to post
> information or your own conjecture on subjects you are not familiar
> with, as such information can be dangerous.
>
> I noticed your first post has already been addressed, and correctly
> so. As for your present post, I would first like to know what you
> mean by "freshwater salt," unless you mean that salt which does not
> have all the trace elements that marine salt has (they are both
> primarily sodium chloride, with table salt having none of the other
> elements). If you had any knowledge of osmotic pressure in fish you
> would know that adding this much salt (regardless of what type) --
> all at once to a fish's environment -- will send their system into
> shock and dehydrate them and can cause their deaths. Please do not
> post unless you know what you're talking about. This is a plea, not
> an insult. Erroneous information is far too dangerous here for the
> beginner hobbyist to have to deal with. Incidentally, FYI, the
> progressive salt method of treating fish for certain diseases is
not
> considered "medicating," but instead is one of the oldest and
safest
> methods you can use on fish when done in a manner in which they can
> more slowly acclimate; a method which you should have long since
> learned about if you've done much reading up on fish keeping. In
> this case of Ich, it was not necessary to even go into this method,
> but just to add only enough salt to make it difficult for the Ich.
> Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@>
> wrote:
> >
> > To freshwater? that sounds dangerous esp for a beginer since they
> are also prone to over medicating. If it was freshwater salt or non
> iodizing salt his fish wouldnt be dieing now.
> >
> > Sissy Sathre <ssathre@> wrote: IO = Instant Ocean salt
> mix.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Joseph Reid
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:13 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
> >
> > What is IO salt?
> >
> > Sissy Sathre <ssathre@> wrote: Steve , I agree with you and I
> use IO salt all the time on freshwater. The only thing is the
buffers
> in the salt mix, my have raised the ph possibly ?
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Steve Szabo
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:10 PM
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
> >
> > Joe,
> >
> > That simply is not true. I use marine salt when I have it on hand
> rather than any other kind of salt, and have never suffered any
> deleterious effects from its use.
> >
> > The problem we are looking at here is the use of salt in too
large
> a quantity added all at once the osmotic change and other changes
in
> the water simply were too much for some of the fish to handle.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
> > Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 5:55 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] guppy having problems
> >
> > is it a freshwater tank because there is a freshwater salt your
> surpose to use not the salt for saltwater fish it would sufficate
> them.
> >
> > ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@> wrote: Whatever I did in the salt/warm
> water process, something has gone
> > terribly wrong as 2 of my strongest fish are just laying at the
> > bottom fighting to live, and a third guppy is with the salty
things
> > on her body now. I used a sea salt from Petco. I hope that was
the
> > right product. The water got a little warm (84). I've brought it
> > down to 80.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Jeannie
> >
> > At 02:37 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> >
> > >Hi -
> > >
> > >I just noticed them on one fish yesterday. After reading Joseph's
> > >response (thanks, Joseph), I pulled up an article on ich and am
> doing
> > >the high temp/salt thing that was written by someone over at the
> > >cichlid forum. Here is the link -
> > ><http://www.cichlid-
forum.com/articles/ich.php>http://www.cichlid-
> forum.com/articles/ich.php
> > >
> > >At 01:55 PM 9/23/2006, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >It is probably not ich. Ich would be found all over the body
and
> > > >fins, and would look like grains of salt. Have these white
spots
> > > >developed recently, or have you just noticed them?
> > > >
> > > >\\Steve//
> > > >-----Original Message-----
> > > >From:
> > > ><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogr
> > > oups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > >[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> > > >Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:58 PM
> > > >To:
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone
> call rates.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
> Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
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> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19094 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Salt dehydration question
After some delayed reading on these past salt issues, I'm wondering if
that was the fate of the angel that was lost this past weekend. The
two were perfectly healthy (that I could tell) and once I added the salt
to prevent the ich which killed the kissing gourami, the angel then
died. The other angel is pale in color and not striped w/ black like it
was before the salt treatment.
It's a 55 gallon tank, I added 1 tbl spoon per 5 gallons.
I did a 30% water change today as the dead angel was in there for days.
(!!!)

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19095 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
I thought it was one teaspoon per ten gallons........


----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 6:05 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt dehydration question


After some delayed reading on these past salt issues, I'm wondering if
that was the fate of the angel that was lost this past weekend. The
two were perfectly healthy (that I could tell) and once I added the salt
to prevent the ich which killed the kissing gourami, the angel then
died. The other angel is pale in color and not striped w/ black like it
was before the salt treatment.
It's a 55 gallon tank, I added 1 tbl spoon per 5 gallons.
I did a 30% water change today as the dead angel was in there for days.
(!!!)

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19096 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: School tank, STARTING OVER
Did they say how a timer is a fire hazard?

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: One of the angels died over the weekend and when someone told the office
on Monday, they did nothing...left the dead fish in the tank. When I
get there today Tuesday, dead fish still there. OH! @#!* When I
mentioned that it should have been removed, the secretary gets offended
like it isn't her job to take out dead fish. Isn't it SOMEWHAT their
responsibility? She said flat out that she doesn't have time to even
look at the fish. Then they complained that there was brown stuff all
over the tank walls...when I asked if they had been turning off the
lights, well of course they haven't. BUT we can't put a timer on there
because the fire department yanked it as a fire hazard. ANYWAY...vent
over.

There is an angle, a dwarf blue gourami, 4-5 zebra danios. I want to
put in mollies (swordtails) & lots of guppies. Will this work w/ the
fish that are already in there? Oh and 2 small plecos which will be
traded in when they get too big.

Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19097 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
If it was freshwater salt it would of been safer my opion still.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: After some delayed reading on these past salt issues, I'm wondering if
that was the fate of the angel that was lost this past weekend. The
two were perfectly healthy (that I could tell) and once I added the salt
to prevent the ich which killed the kissing gourami, the angel then
died. The other angel is pale in color and not striped w/ black like it
was before the salt treatment.
It's a 55 gallon tank, I added 1 tbl spoon per 5 gallons.
I did a 30% water change today as the dead angel was in there for days.
(!!!)

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19098 From: Jennifer Kokoruda Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: School tank, STARTING OVER
I am also curious to know how a timer is a fire hazard? If it truely is then I guess I am a fire marshalls nightmare!! With all the lights and heaters and humidifiers my Iguana needs! LOL

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: Did they say how a timer is a fire hazard?

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: One of the angels died over the weekend and when someone told the office
on Monday, they did nothing...left the dead fish in the tank. When I
get there today Tuesday, dead fish still there. OH! @#!* When I
mentioned that it should have been removed, the secretary gets offended
like it isn't her job to take out dead fish. Isn't it SOMEWHAT their
responsibility? She said flat out that she doesn't have time to even
look at the fish. Then they complained that there was brown stuff all
over the tank walls...when I asked if they had been turning off the
lights, well of course they haven't. BUT we can't put a timer on there
because the fire department yanked it as a fire hazard. ANYWAY...vent
over.

There is an angle, a dwarf blue gourami, 4-5 zebra danios. I want to
put in mollies (swordtails) & lots of guppies. Will this work w/ the
fish that are already in there? Oh and 2 small plecos which will be
traded in when they get too big.

Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links












http://community.webshots.com/user/greeniguana_12
An Iguana is not a pet! It is a way of life.

Member of the WWF Conservation Action Network
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19099 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
That amount of salt, 1 Tbs per 5 gallons, should not have adversely
affected anything including live plants. This amount is what some
people prefer using at all times, even though it is not really needed
at all. It will help to promote a somewhat heavier slime coating,
but then there is always Stress Coat for that purpose if a fish has
recently been netted and it is feared that some of this coating may
may been rubbed off. The only way your addition of this salt may
have harmed the fish was if you are presently using ammonia-absorbing
chips in the filter. In that case, it would cause the zeolite to
give up some of the ammonia it has been absorbing. Otherwise, this
amount is even safe for Cory Catfish and Tetras. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> After some delayed reading on these past salt issues, I'm wondering
if
> that was the fate of the angel that was lost this past weekend.
The
> two were perfectly healthy (that I could tell) and once I added the
salt
> to prevent the ich which killed the kissing gourami, the angel then
> died. The other angel is pale in color and not striped w/ black
like it
> was before the salt treatment.
> It's a 55 gallon tank, I added 1 tbl spoon per 5 gallons.
> I did a 30% water change today as the dead angel was in there for
days.
> (!!!)
>
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19100 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: School tank, STARTING OVER
Maybe enlist the help of the science teacher and his students? The janitor
is responsible for fish keeping on the display tank in my elementary school.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 1:35 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com;
fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] School tank, STARTING OVER



One of the angels died over the weekend and when someone told the office
on Monday, they did nothing...left the dead fish in the tank. When I
get there today Tuesday, dead fish still there. OH! @#!* When I
mentioned that it should have been removed, the secretary gets offended
like it isn't her job to take out dead fish. Isn't it SOMEWHAT their
responsibility? She said flat out that she doesn't have time to even
look at the fish. Then they complained that there was brown stuff all
over the tank walls...when I asked if they had been turning off the
lights, well of course they haven't. BUT we can't put a timer on there
because the fire department yanked it as a fire hazard. ANYWAY...vent
over.

There is an angle, a dwarf blue gourami, 4-5 zebra danios. I want to
put in mollies (swordtails) & lots of guppies. Will this work w/ the
fish that are already in there? Oh and 2 small plecos which will be
traded in when they get too big.

Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19101 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
It's Docs aquarium salt. So what was unsafe about it?

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 6:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Salt dehydration question



If it was freshwater salt it would of been safer my opion still.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net>
net> wrote: After some delayed reading on these past salt issues, I'm
wondering if
that was the fate of the angel that was lost this past weekend. The
two were perfectly healthy (that I could tell) and once I added the salt
to prevent the ich which killed the kissing gourami, the angel then
died. The other angel is pale in color and not striped w/ black like it
was before the salt treatment.
It's a 55 gallon tank, I added 1 tbl spoon per 5 gallons.
I did a 30% water change today as the dead angel was in there for days.
(!!!)

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
countries) for 2¢/min or less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19102 From: jules27au Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: Guppie Breeding Part 2
Hello,

Firstly, it's great reading about everyone's fish - you don't have to
own a furry pet to have fun!

Silly question, but once you have fry, how long till they grow up?

Cheers

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19103 From: its a secret Date: 9/26/2006
Subject: silver dollars
i was wondering if anyone has been successful breeding silver dollars.
what conditions are ideal? what tricks have you learned in this
endeavor? I'm willing to make whatever changes are necessary.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19104 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: guppy having problems
Yeah I understand what salt does for the fish and parasites and the slim coating it produces and what a slim coat is for. What was troubling me was that I had it in my mind that salts had different chemistry makeups. Hence the different types. Guess I was too technical on the products name if you understand. I even stated to try the salt methord just using the freshwater salt. This is a great lesson to have learned thank you all.

Steve Szabo wrote:

Earlier, you had mentioned giving marine fish a freshwater dip. You also stated that the fish were distressed by this. There is also the saltwater dip used for freshwater fish. The difference between the dips is that they last a short period of time, generally less than 15 minutes, sometimes much less. Using the dips can be effective for certain treatments, mainly removing external parasites from the fish which release from the fish in search of a more comfortable host--which they do not find.

Using salt as a treatment for freshwater fish is an accepted practice, and it is effective. The addition of salt serves several purposes. First, a natural reaction to the increased salinity increases the amount of mucous a fish produces--the slime coat. This helps the fish fight off whatever may be ailing it, particularly parasites. Second, it also has an effect on the parasites, often killing them out right, sometimes inhibiting their life cycle. The salt serves as an irritant--one component that increases the mucous production, but it also makes the fish more active, and therefore helps increase its appetite. A fish that is sick may not be eating normally, and this will help it get back to a more normal level of food, which will give it strength to fight off the infection.

While some think of salt as a cure-all, it really is not, but used judiciously, and properly, it can be an effective cure for many ailments.

I do not know the relative difference between the oxygen capacity of fresh and marine water off the top of my head. Thus I cannot comment on your statement. However, when used in the recommended quantities, salt added to a freshwater environment as a cure will barely register a difference in the specific gravity of the water, thus your argument really does not go anywhere. It does not matter what kind of salt is used--kosher, aquarium salt (really kosher salt as much higher prices), table salt, or a marine mix, it all serves the same purpose.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19105 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: Guppie Breeding Part 2
Jules,

Growth of fry depends on a lot of factors. Starting from how much you feed
them during their grow out period. Level of Nitrates in the water, Stocking
levels, Temperature of the tank, water changes etc.

Fry need more regular feeds then adult fish to grow fast and higher
temperature will increase their metabolic rate. Excess Nitrates and lack of
water changes along with high stocking levels will stunt the growth. Usually
people don’t bother that much with these things for guppy fry but breeders
have to do that to get a good batch of adults.

Depending on these factors, it can take from as much as 2 months to 6 months
for the fry to reach 1” body size.

Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: 27 September 2006 03:47
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Guppie Breeding Part 2



Hello,

Firstly, it's great reading about everyone's fish - you don't have to
own a furry pet to have fun!

Silly question, but once you have fry, how long till they grow up?

Cheers

Jules





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19106 From: Jennifer Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: My fishes
Hello all,

Well as most of you are aware my husband and I are going to be moving
cross country. As most of you remember me asking for ideas on how to
safely transport my fish? Well, I am slowly but surely losing the
battle as to whether or not I can take my fish! boo hoo
I thought that I would be able to move them and I still think that I
could but my husband is saying that it would be just to much of a
hassle. I just dont know what to do! I have tried to convince him but
he wont have it! I have one last ditch effort in my bag! I AM GOING TO
PLEAD! LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19107 From: snerticus Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
Leslie, I think they were confused and thought you were adding Marine
Salt. Doc Wellfish salt is for Freshwater Aquariums, it's perfectly
safe...

no fillers, tastes great, and less filling...

just kidding!

but it's definitely perfect for fresh water tanks. I use it too.

Snert


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> It's Docs aquarium salt. So what was unsafe about it?
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
> Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 6:00 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Salt dehydration question
>
>
>
> If it was freshwater salt it would of been safer my opion still.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19108 From: hank voss Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: My fishes
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jennifer" <greeniguana_12@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Well as most of you are aware my husband and I are going to be
moving
> cross country. As most of you remember me asking for ideas on how to
> safely transport my fish? Well, I am slowly but surely losing the
> battle as to whether or not I can take my fish! boo hoo
> I thought that I would be able to move them and I still think that I
> could but my husband is saying that it would be just to much of a
> hassle. I just dont know what to do! I have tried to convince him
but
> he wont have it! I have one last ditch effort in my bag! I AM GOING
TO
> PLEAD! LOL
> ==========================
Jennifer:
If the previous ways given to you are not going to work for
your husband you can do what i did when i moved to Fla.I gave all the
fish that i wanted to save to a fish buddy to hold for me and when my
room is set up he will mail them to me.This is the least amount of
work in a long distance move.The only thing you have to watch out for
is the weather (temp) though.I hope this helps.

Good Luck Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19109 From: wendie Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Moving
I simply put each one in their own little cup - the types they are in at
Petco - with their own lids and put them in a box. They are used to small
spaces and would be fine for several days.
Wendie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19110 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Hi Ray and Everyone:

My last little guppy died overnight. Man, what a lesson learned.

All of your correspondence back and forth has been interesting, but
somewhat complex for this fish newbie. Osmosis and what-not are a
bit overwhelming to comprehend, but I hope that by reading it all
over time, I will know more.

In the meantime, I've increased the water temp to its maximum in the
hope of killing whatever took over my little aquatic
family. Luckily, I never attempted to introduce my betta (and a
ghost shrimp) to that tank, otherwise I would have lost them, too.

Before adding more fish, should I do a complete water change, or just
a partial one? And not before the 10 day period, which started last
week? Or should I start the 10 day count as of today? Anything else
suggested before feeling that it's safe to try again?

One other question: we have a real good carpenter here building us
shelves. From part of the wall, he will be hanging our flat screen
tv, then has proposed that he build a big, wide shelf underneath for
the fish tanks. I read somewhere that aquariums should not be placed
near tvs, but with this shelf being below and the tv being hung,
should the fish be okay?

Thanks, so much for all your help. What a great, caring group!

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19111 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
Dear Leslie:

I"m sorry to hear about your fish.


Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...


>--- In
><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com,
>"Leslie & Dane Moore"
><5moores@...> wrote:
> >
> > After some delayed reading on these past salt issues, I'm wondering
>if
> > that was the fate of the angel that was lost this past weekend.
>The
> > two were perfectly healthy (that I could tell) and once I added the
>salt
> > to prevent the ich which killed the kissing gourami, the angel then
> > died. The other angel is pale in color and not striped w/ black
>like it
> > was before the salt treatment.
> > It's a 55 gallon tank, I added 1 tbl spoon per 5 gallons.
> > I did a 30% water change today as the dead angel was in there for
>days.
> > (!!!)
> >
> > Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19112 From: Tracie Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
I am no expert by no means, but I wouldnt put the tv and aquarium so close to each other because the humidity from the tank may damage the tv.........just my 2 cents...

----- Original Message -----
From: ~~JFazio~~
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 11:42 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks


Hi Ray and Everyone:

My last little guppy died overnight. Man, what a lesson learned.

All of your correspondence back and forth has been interesting, but
somewhat complex for this fish newbie. Osmosis and what-not are a
bit overwhelming to comprehend, but I hope that by reading it all
over time, I will know more.

In the meantime, I've increased the water temp to its maximum in the
hope of killing whatever took over my little aquatic
family. Luckily, I never attempted to introduce my betta (and a
ghost shrimp) to that tank, otherwise I would have lost them, too.

Before adding more fish, should I do a complete water change, or just
a partial one? And not before the 10 day period, which started last
week? Or should I start the 10 day count as of today? Anything else
suggested before feeling that it's safe to try again?

One other question: we have a real good carpenter here building us
shelves. From part of the wall, he will be hanging our flat screen
tv, then has proposed that he build a big, wide shelf underneath for
the fish tanks. I read somewhere that aquariums should not be placed
near tvs, but with this shelf being below and the tv being hung,
should the fish be okay?

Thanks, so much for all your help. What a great, caring group!

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 22/09/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19113 From: Rich Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Hi Jeannie a gal. of water can weigh 8lbs. plus the
tank ,gravel,pump, hood, etc. I would make sure the shelves can hold
all that weight. I hope it wooks out for you.
Rich







--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray and Everyone:
>
> My last little guppy died overnight. Man, what a lesson learned.
>
> All of your correspondence back and forth has been interesting, but
> somewhat complex for this fish newbie. Osmosis and what-not are a
> bit overwhelming to comprehend, but I hope that by reading it all
> over time, I will know more.
>
> In the meantime, I've increased the water temp to its maximum in
the
> hope of killing whatever took over my little aquatic
> family. Luckily, I never attempted to introduce my betta (and a
> ghost shrimp) to that tank, otherwise I would have lost them, too.
>
> Before adding more fish, should I do a complete water change, or
just
> a partial one? And not before the 10 day period, which started
last
> week? Or should I start the 10 day count as of today? Anything
else
> suggested before feeling that it's safe to try again?
>
> One other question: we have a real good carpenter here building us
> shelves. From part of the wall, he will be hanging our flat screen
> tv, then has proposed that he build a big, wide shelf underneath
for
> the fish tanks. I read somewhere that aquariums should not be
placed
> near tvs, but with this shelf being below and the tv being hung,
> should the fish be okay?
>
> Thanks, so much for all your help. What a great, caring group!
>
> Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19114 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: housing for tanks
Great advice. I had never thought of that. Be still my heart at the
thought of that huge flat screen getting water damage. See? I'm so
glad I wrote! Thanks.

Jeannie

At 02:04 PM 9/27/2006, you wrote:

>I am no expert by no means, but I wouldnt put the tv and aquarium so
>close to each other because the humidity from the tank may damage
>the tv.........just my 2 cents...
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: ~~JFazio~~
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 11:42 AM
>Subject: [AquaticLife] My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19115 From: snerticus Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: New pics on my website...
I don't update my website very often, only when I think I have
something interesting AND I have the spare time.

Since I found one of my ghost shrimp had eggs last week, I decided to
take a picture of her. I had lampeye killifish in with my shrimp, but
since they eat the gammarus and copepods, I decided to remove them so
they won't eat any newborn shrimp. I hope my SAE won't eat them
either. I don't think my clown pleco will. I also put up a pic of one
of my Amano shrimp with it's swimmerets extended (they do that a lot,
don't know why). And above that is a pic of my two Bamboo Shrimp.
This are really interesting because their first four "feet" or "hands" -
depending on how you view them - have evolved into fans to catch tiny
drifting food particles. I feed them baby fish powder and they seem to
do fine. I keep them all in my tank with crushed coral as a
substrate. I don't want to worry about over or under-dosing with
calcium. The CO2 reactor keeps the pH at a reasonably low level (about
7.6 as opposed to the 8.4 to 8.8 if I didn't use it). www.snerticus.com

I love freshwater inverts!


Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19116 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: Salt dehydration question
I think they are confused too. I never implied that I used marine salt.
I never said it was any particular salt for that matter.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

Ciao'
Leslie



----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of snerticus
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 10:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt dehydration question



Leslie, I think they were confused and thought you were adding Marine
Salt. Doc Wellfish salt is for Freshwater Aquariums, it's perfectly
safe...

no fillers, tastes great, and less filling...

just kidding!

but it's definitely perfect for fresh water tanks. I use it too.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> It's Docs aquarium salt. So what was unsafe about it?
>
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
> Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 6:00 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Salt dehydration question
>
>
>
> If it was freshwater salt it would of been safer my opion still.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19117 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Jeannie, First of all, when you are ready to do a water change
(after the Ich cure and after the tank temperature is brought back
down to normal range), I would not do a complete water change in your
case as if you don't know if all parameters match (tank water and tap
water) you can stress the fish. Such large changes are best left to
those hobbyists who are more experienced, but for your tank I would
do no more than 50% at a time. Note that the 10 day period is
approximate and not written in stone. It may take only 7 days (or it
may take 11 days); watch for the complete absence of Ich on your
fish, at however many days it takes, and do not turn down the heat
until 3 days later, after you see the last of it. I'm not sure what
you mean by your increasing the water temperature to maximum. I hope
you're using an aquarium thermometer and don't have it too high
(should be 86 o minimum, but not too much more). Don't be in a rush
to add new fish; the approximate 10 day period of high heat will
somewhat weaken your fish after a while from the decreased amount of
oxygen. Give them a chance to get back to their own selves
afterwards, much as you might still feel a little weak after getting
over the flu. Perhaps an additional week or so would be fine. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray and Everyone:
>
> My last little guppy died overnight. Man, what a lesson learned.
>
> All of your correspondence back and forth has been interesting, but
> somewhat complex for this fish newbie. Osmosis and what-not are a
> bit overwhelming to comprehend, but I hope that by reading it all
> over time, I will know more.
>
> In the meantime, I've increased the water temp to its maximum in
the
> hope of killing whatever took over my little aquatic
> family. Luckily, I never attempted to introduce my betta (and a
> ghost shrimp) to that tank, otherwise I would have lost them, too.
>
> Before adding more fish, should I do a complete water change, or
just
> a partial one? And not before the 10 day period, which started
last
> week? Or should I start the 10 day count as of today? Anything
else
> suggested before feeling that it's safe to try again?
>
> One other question: we have a real good carpenter here building us
> shelves. From part of the wall, he will be hanging our flat screen
> tv, then has proposed that he build a big, wide shelf underneath
for
> the fish tanks. I read somewhere that aquariums should not be
placed
> near tvs, but with this shelf being below and the tv being hung,
> should the fish be okay?
>
> Thanks, so much for all your help. What a great, caring group!
>
> Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19118 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Firemouth w/ parasite eggs?
My friend is keeping a firemouth for me in her 150 gallon american
cichlid tank.
Under his fin, as if protruding from its' "joint", are nasty white soft
looking little balls of pussy egg like things. It's actually a mass
pile of these white things along w/ a brownish goo underneath it all.
Some of the white things are attached and some are hanging loosely off
his body. It's under the one fin only and not anywhere else on him.
The stuff looks soft and the spots are maybe the size of a small marker
point.

Should we treat him w/ Clout? I'm thinking this must be the result of
some sort of parasite but I can not find anything to back that up.
There is NOTHING out there that resembles this.

Pleeeease help my firemouth.

~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19119 From: Jennifer Date: 9/27/2006
Subject: Sad
Hello all,

Is there anyone on this group that lives in or very near to the
Richmond VA area? If so, I am having to get rid of my fish. I have a
55 gallon and a 10 gallon tank. There are two Black Moors, one Sarassa
Comet and one Ple*o. All of the accessories will be included along
with the chemicals and all food. I would like to make sure that they
are going to a good home. This is the thought that I have been
dreading for a week.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19120 From: jasondanielrobert Date: 9/28/2006
Subject: Problem with aquarium
I have a 10 gallon aquarium with guppies and swordfish. The fish will
soon develop a curved spine and hollowed stomach. They will soon
die. I have increased temperature and added salt. The pet shop said
that it is problem with feeding but I feed two times a day.

Any suggestions? I have 5 other aquariums and do not have that
problem with them.

Thanks for your help

JP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19121 From: Paul Sternitzke Date: 9/28/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
I Had the same problem with my first tank... I only feed my guppies once a day and leave my tank lights on for about 12-14 hours....After doing this I haven't lost a single guppy in 8 months. I have no thermometer or heater..I use a carbon filter but I don't put a filter cartridge in the filter so it only circulates the water.
Paul Sternitzke
lne660@...


----- Original Message -----
From: jasondanielrobert
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 9/28/2006 9:14:32 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Problem with aquarium


I have a 10 gallon aquarium with guppies and swordfish. The fish will
soon develop a curved spine and hollowed stomach. They will soon
die. I have increased temperature and added salt. The pet shop said
that it is problem with feeding but I feed two times a day.

Any suggestions? I have 5 other aquariums and do not have that
problem with them.

Thanks for your help

JP




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19122 From: Joseph Reid Date: 9/28/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Well if your worried about feeding you can feed your fish once every other day a small amount.

jasondanielrobert <jasondanielrobert@...> wrote: I have a 10 gallon aquarium with guppies and swordfish. The fish will
soon develop a curved spine and hollowed stomach. They will soon
die. I have increased temperature and added salt. The pet shop said
that it is problem with feeding but I feed two times a day.

Any suggestions? I have 5 other aquariums and do not have that
problem with them.

Thanks for your help

JP






---------------------------------
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Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19123 From: harry perry Date: 9/28/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium/To JP
How many fish are in this 10 gal?.

Harry

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: Well if your worried about feeding you can feed your fish once every other day a small amount.

jasondanielrobert <jasondanielrobert@...> wrote: I have a 10 gallon aquarium with guppies and swordfish. The fish will
soon develop a curved spine and hollowed stomach. They will soon
die. I have increased temperature and added salt. The pet shop said
that it is problem with feeding but I feed two times a day.

Any suggestions? I have 5 other aquariums and do not have that
problem with them.

Thanks for your help

JP


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19124 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/28/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
When some of us started the hobby, the biological cycle was not known,
nor was a lot of the stuff we talked about in the thread about your
little guys. There was a lot of talk about a "balanced" aquarium, but
what it really boiled down to, as we know today, was getting they
biological cycle going and keeping it going. The test kits that should
be in every fishy home were not known to us, nor available to us they
way they are today. Now that we know what happens, and we can measure
it, and know how to handle it, getting a tank established and on going
should be so much easier. Unfortunately, too many go into it blind and
need to struggle because they do not have the information, and too many
stores do not even lead you to the information you need to be
successful.

While the discussions spawned by your questions went fairly deep, and,
as you state, beyond your comprehension, hang on to them. As you say,
the understanding will come. It will come by following some of the
threads her, as you expand your reading, as you learn more from your
experience. You may not reach the level of Ray, Harry, or myself, but
then, you may exceed it, depending on how your interests carry you. A
little investigative works shows me that you can attend the meetings of
the Boston Aquarium Society fairly easily. Yu can check them out at
http://www.bostonaquariumsociety.org Mentioning my name may get a blank
stare, tossed out or welcomed with open arms <g>. It's been a while
since I've been up there and there are probably a lot of new members.

Back on track, without the fish, the ich cannot complete its lifecycle.
Some, no doubt, hibernate and be available for the next time around, but
with a healthy tank and fish, they will not get far. Go with at least 7
days without changing anything. This will help kill of the new
generation, and make it less likely many will be available for that next
time around. Once this has completed, do a massive water change, up to
100%. Then you can start fresh with some new fish.

As for the fish and the tanks, you may end up watching less TV (not
necessarily a bad thing). What you probably had read was tanks on or
over the TV. They can get pretty hot ( as will your flat screen) and
sitting a tank on the top of one could cause wide temperature
fluctuations. Also, be sure he builds the shelving to hold the weight of
the tanks you may place up there. I generally figure 10 pounds per
gallon size of the tank--a 10 gallon tank would then be approximately
100 pounds and a 55 gallon would be 550 pounds. Think about the tank(s)
you would want on that shelf, and then make sure you have enough room so
that the screen will be entirely above the top of the tank(s) and
lighting fixture(s) you may have for the tank(s).



\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 1:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks

Hi Ray and Everyone:

My last little guppy died overnight. Man, what a lesson learned.

All of your correspondence back and forth has been interesting, but
somewhat complex for this fish newbie. Osmosis and what-not are a
bit overwhelming to comprehend, but I hope that by reading it all
over time, I will know more.

In the meantime, I've increased the water temp to its maximum in the
hope of killing whatever took over my little aquatic
family. Luckily, I never attempted to introduce my betta (and a
ghost shrimp) to that tank, otherwise I would have lost them, too.

Before adding more fish, should I do a complete water change, or just
a partial one? And not before the 10 day period, which started last
week? Or should I start the 10 day count as of today? Anything else
suggested before feeling that it's safe to try again?

One other question: we have a real good carpenter here building us
shelves. From part of the wall, he will be hanging our flat screen
tv, then has proposed that he build a big, wide shelf underneath for
the fish tanks. I read somewhere that aquariums should not be placed
near tvs, but with this shelf being below and the tv being hung,
should the fish be okay?

Thanks, so much for all your help. What a great, caring group!

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19125 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Hello Steve, Ray and All:

I cannot thank you enough for the wealth of information provided
through this forum. My aerobics instructor, Robin, is a fish person,
but I can only ask her so much and then I feel like she may be
feeling overwhelmed. Knowing her, and seeing how much you enjoy
helping others to understand this process better, Robin also probably
loves discussing all things fish. It's like me with dogs. They are
my passion and maybe someday, fish will be, too. That is, if I do
eventually decide to fill that aquarium again and can get my aquatic
family to thrive.

In the event that I do, that freshwater spira bio will come in handy
to speed up the cycling process. I did go into fosters and smith Web
site and there was a 24 gallon tank that looked kind of
neat.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13976&N=2004+62760
Do you think I may be going over my head with yet a bigger
tank? Given that the bigger tanks are even easier to care for, maybe
I should go even bigger, to a 29 gallon since, according to Steve and
Ray, I should pretty much replace all of my water, which would put me
at the beginning stages of the cycling process again. What size do
you all recommend if I get brave enough to take the plunge?

I appreciate the head's up regarding the aquarium meetings at
Boston's New England Aquarium, which was one of my favorite places to
go while growing up in that area but, given that I live over an hour
away, 8PM meetings may be a bit difficult. However, my business has
me doing a lot of airport transportation and if I am in the area on a
Monday, attending a meeting will definitely be a possibility. Thanks for that!

And thanks again for the carpentry advice, which also was
invaluable. You probably just saved us mucho bucks in having to
replace that 42" flat screen tv from the aquarium's humidity. :-)

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333


At 10:31 PM 9/28/2006, you wrote:

>When some of us started the hobby, the biological cycle was not known,
>nor was a lot of the stuff we talked about in the thread about your
>little guys. There was a lot of talk about a "balanced" aquarium, but
>what it really boiled down to, as we know today, was getting they
>biological cycle going and keeping it going. The test kits that should
>be in every fishy home were not known to us, nor available to us they
>way they are today. Now that we know what happens, and we can measure
>it, and know how to handle it, getting a tank established and on going
>should be so much easier. Unfortunately, too many go into it blind and
>need to struggle because they do not have the information, and too many
>stores do not even lead you to the information you need to be
>successful.
>
>While the discussions spawned by your questions went fairly deep, and,
>as you state, beyond your comprehension, hang on to them.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19126 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: My fishes
You might also want to point out that what you do not take with you,
you will have to pay to replace once there. :D Pocketbook
considerations always soften my DH up.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19127 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Possibly internal parasites?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19128 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: Sad
I'm so sorry. Wish I was close enough to you, but I'm afraid not.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19129 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: build your own aquariums?
have any of you ever built your own aquariums? And if so, do you
happen to know of any really good instructions? I'd kinda like to try
building some good breeding tanks for my bettas. I do not like the
small breeding tanks, but having seperate large tanks is a bit
problematical space wise. I'd love to make a large, long divided tank
where I could have bettas spawning in 20 gallon sections along the
tank. They would visually stimulate each other, but be safe from each
other during the spawning. It would be much easier to keep water
quality and temperature stabile as well.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19130 From: hank voss Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: build your own aquariums?
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> have any of you ever built your own aquariums? And if so, do you
> happen to know of any really good instructions? I'd kinda like to
try
> building some good breeding tanks for my bettas. I do not like
the
> small breeding tanks, but having seperate large tanks is a bit
> problematical space wise. I'd love to make a large, long divided
tank
> where I could have bettas spawning in 20 gallon sections along the
> tank. They would visually stimulate each other, but be safe from
each
> other during the spawning. It would be much easier to keep water
> quality and temperature stabile as well.
>
=========================

You want 20 gal.sections??? Thats going to be an awfull
big tank.
HANK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19131 From: Patrick Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Hi, everybody. I have a problem with BGA in my tank. I've been trying to
deal with it for a while. I can't figure out what is feeding it, though. I
have the same water source, food, plants, and gravel as in another tank. I
do water changes on both within days of each other. Any ideas why only one
tank has BGA? Hydrogen peroxide didn't help.

Patrick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19132 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: build your own aquariums?
I would love to build a tank that would go all the way around my livingroom.
That would be neat!!

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19133 From: chris topher Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
wow...

i hope someone does have the answer for you...

peroxide worked like a charm for me...

would hate to be stuck with another infestation i cant
clear...

and with 8 tanks i never figured out why just one had
it...

woody

--- Patrick <patrickmn@...> wrote:

> Hi, everybody. I have a problem with BGA in my
> tank. I've been trying to
> deal with it for a while. I can't figure out what
> is feeding it, though. I
> have the same water source, food, plants, and gravel
> as in another tank. I
> do water changes on both within days of each other.
> Any ideas why only one
> tank has BGA? Hydrogen peroxide didn't help.
>
> Patrick
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19134 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: build your own aquariums?
> You want 20 gal.sections??? Thats going to be an awfull
> big tank.
> HANK
Yah, I know...which is why I'm wondering what are the best adhesives to
put it together with. Along the sides I'll have to have supports for
the acrylic, and I will have to have hinged acrylic lids as well. I
might just make two or three shorter tanks and fit them together in a
row to acheive the same space efficiency.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19135 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
No idea. I haven't had trouble with BGA since I got the moss balls and
put them in my tank. The seem to compete for the same nutrients, which
keeps BGA from being able to form well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19136 From: Dmitry Gorelov Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Hi Patrick. I had it for a little while and it was gone after I took away
that particular green rock... Did not use anything else besides cutting on
fish food and lighting time. Do you have the same pH/KH/GH between the two
tanks? Just wondering.
Dmitry

On 9/28/06, Patrick <patrickmn@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, everybody. I have a problem with BGA in my tank. I've been trying to
> deal with it for a while. I can't figure out what is feeding it,
> though. I
> have the same water source, food, plants, and gravel as in another
> tank. I
> do water changes on both within days of each other. Any ideas why only
> one
> tank has BGA? Hydrogen peroxide didn't help.
>
> Patrick


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19137 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: build your own aquariums?
In a message dated 9/29/2006 11:17:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
brennewoman@... writes:

have any of you ever built your own aquariums? And if so, do you
happen to know of any really good instructions? I'd kinda like to try
building some good breeding tanks for my bettas. I do not like the
small breeding tanks, but having seperate large tanks is a bit
problematical space wise. I'd love to make a large, long divided tank
where I could have bettas spawning in 20 gallon sections along the
tank. They would visually stimulate each other, but be safe from each
other during the spawning. It would be much easier to keep water
quality and temperature stabile as well.





I have repaired a couple leaky acrylic tanks. I own a not very active DIY
aquarium list with some links to building aquariums. I would join
AquariumBuilding a yahoo group like this list we are on now. A much more active group
with many links and many experienced people that have built and repaired
aquariums. I usually send people that join my list on to the aquarium building
list.

It will be cheaper to buy used tanks and place dviders in theem to suit your
needs. That is unless you have access to cheap or free buildong materials.

Mike


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19138 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/29/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Bigger tanks are generally more stable and easy to take care of.

If you are anything like most fish keepers the 29 will be outgrown soon and
you will want the 40 gallon, and then the 55 gallon.

New or used 55 gallons are usually cheap depending on where you shop.
(ebay, craigslist, local classified papers, walmart)

Use the old fiter or filter media with a larger filter for the new tank.
The old filter and or filter media can help seed the new tank.

After you get your bigger tank up and running you may restart your old tank,
then get a few more ;)

But don't worry, there is a Fishroom group on yahoo you can join when your
house gets over run ;)

Mike

In a message dated 9/29/2006 4:59:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jfazio@... writes:

Do you think I may be going over my head with yet a bigger
tank? Given that the bigger tanks are even easier to care for, maybe
I should go even bigger, to a 29 gallon since, according to Steve and
Ray, I should pretty much replace all of my water, which would put me
at the beginning stages of the cycling process again. What size do
you all recommend if I get brave enough to take the plunge?






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19139 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: plan
After seeing the 3 tanks of a client yesterday, and meeting her fish,
my plan is to try it again, only this time step up to a 29 gallon tank.

That still leaves me with the empty (of fish) 10 gallon one that
housed the guppies who all died of ich within the past week. The
water, substrate and deco are all still in there with the temperature
at 86. From what Ray taught me, all signs of ich should be out of
there already, but to be safe, I will wait another week.

Questions:
What if I were to take all of the water from my betta's six gallon
tank and add it to the 10 gallon once ready to empty all of its
water, gravel and decorations, then add him and the ghost shrimp to
that? Wouldn't that avoid having to go through the cycling process?

Also, would a good cleaning of the filter media from the 10 gallon
tank be sufficient, or should I get a new one?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19140 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
JP,

The curved spine has two main causes--genetic or a dietary deficiency. The hollow belly generally points to a dietary problem. You say you are feeding twice a day. Are the fish eating what you are feeding them? If they are, then the food you are feeding is not meeting the needs of the fish. Try another brand of food and/or a different variety of the brand you are now feeding. Feed no more than the fish can eat in 2 minutes. It does not matter how often they are fed--once a day, twice a day, five times a day.

You do not mention anything about your water. Have you tested it? Do you have any ammonia, nitrites? If so, your tank is still cycling, and has not reached an equilibrium. Both these fish come from at least moderately hard water. If your water is very soft, it could be contributing to your problems, and you would need to kick up the amount of calcium compounds available to the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jasondanielrobert
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2006 7:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Problem with aquarium

I have a 10 gallon aquarium with guppies and swordfish. The fish will
soon develop a curved spine and hollowed stomach. They will soon
die. I have increased temperature and added salt. The pet shop said
that it is problem with feeding but I feed two times a day.

Any suggestions? I have 5 other aquariums and do not have that
problem with them.

Thanks for your help

JP







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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19141 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
40, 50 gallon? I do have the room, but the wall is next to a large
picture window. Any way around that? I have shades, but they're
light-filtering.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it


At 08:32 PM 9/29/2006, you wrote:


>Bigger tanks are generally more stable and easy to take care of.
>
>If you are anything like most fish keepers the 29 will be outgrown soon and



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19142 From: harry perry Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: plan/Test it./Jeannie
The water in the 6 and the 10 should be cycled by now.

Ich is present in all our tanks all the time. Stressing a fishes' immune system,
like with overcrowding, causes the problem you experienced.

With guppies you are going to overcrowd the tank no matter how you started out.

Don't empty the 10 gal.

Test the 10 gal. The Betta and shrimp can probably go in now. I wouldn't disturb the gravel in the 10 gal. or replace it. The tank will recycle.

The beneficial bacteria needed to stabilize a tank lives in the filter media and the gravel. By testing your water you will know where you stand. You want to see 0 ammonia, 0 niTRITE and a trace of niTRATE. The presence of nitrate is important.Just clean the filter media.

"What Ray taught me" If you mean Ray Wetzel, I would trust his information completely.

Let us know when your ready to start up the 29 gal. We can help.

Harry

~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote: After seeing the 3 tanks of a client yesterday, and meeting her fish,
my plan is to try it again, only this time step up to a 29 gallon tank.

That still leaves me with the empty (of fish) 10 gallon one that
housed the guppies who all died of ich within the past week. The
water, substrate and deco are all still in there with the temperature
at 86. From what Ray taught me, all signs of ich should be out of
there already, but to be safe, I will wait another week.

Questions:
What if I were to take all of the water from my betta's six gallon
tank and add it to the 10 gallon once ready to empty all of its
water, gravel and decorations, then add him and the ghost shrimp to
that? Wouldn't that avoid having to go through the cycling process?

Also, would a good cleaning of the filter media from the 10 gallon
tank be sufficient, or should I get a new one?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19143 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Normally, direct sun is a no-no. With work, that can be overcome. The
light filtering shade will most certainly help. How much direct New
England sun does that spot get during the day? Will this take away one
of the dog's sunning areas?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 1:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks

40, 50 gallon? I do have the room, but the wall is next to a large
picture window. Any way around that? I have shades, but they're
light-filtering.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it


At 08:32 PM 9/29/2006, you wrote:


>Bigger tanks are generally more stable and easy to take care of.
>
>If you are anything like most fish keepers the 29 will be outgrown soon
and
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19144 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
A bigger tank is always better for a novice (or anyone else for that
matter). With more water to play with, changes take longer to happen,
which gives you more time to fix the problem before it becomes critical.

If, in your current tank, the cycle is already in place, doing a massive
water change will not alter that fact. Now, breaking that tank down and
bleaching or otherwise cleaning everything will cause you to need to
cycle the tank once it is back up and running.

Don't let this dissuade you from getting a larger tank, though--see
paragraph 1.

Just got back from a dog event myself, though I am not the one really
into dogs. It was the Sheltie Rescue Picnic She went down first thing
this morning, while I ran the errands I had to, and took one of the
shelties we have and the foster sheltie, and I followed on down when I
was done with my running around, taking the other sheltie (who was a
rescue--the first one down was not a true rescue, but someone she knew
had to give him up when the housing for the elderly came through much
sooner than they expected), and the one I brought down was her first
foster, that she adopted. I also brought down the border collie, who,
during the Frisbee demo by a dog Frisbee group, decided on the spot he
wanted to be a Frisbee dog <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 7:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks

Hello Steve, Ray and All:

I cannot thank you enough for the wealth of information provided
through this forum. My aerobics instructor, Robin, is a fish person,
but I can only ask her so much and then I feel like she may be
feeling overwhelmed. Knowing her, and seeing how much you enjoy
helping others to understand this process better, Robin also probably
loves discussing all things fish. It's like me with dogs. They are
my passion and maybe someday, fish will be, too. That is, if I do
eventually decide to fill that aquarium again and can get my aquatic
family to thrive.

In the event that I do, that freshwater spira bio will come in handy
to speed up the cycling process. I did go into fosters and smith Web
site and there was a 24 gallon tank that looked kind of
neat.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13976&N=20
04+62760
Do you think I may be going over my head with yet a bigger
tank? Given that the bigger tanks are even easier to care for, maybe
I should go even bigger, to a 29 gallon since, according to Steve and
Ray, I should pretty much replace all of my water, which would put me
at the beginning stages of the cycling process again. What size do
you all recommend if I get brave enough to take the plunge?

I appreciate the head's up regarding the aquarium meetings at
Boston's New England Aquarium, which was one of my favorite places to
go while growing up in that area but, given that I live over an hour
away, 8PM meetings may be a bit difficult. However, my business has
me doing a lot of airport transportation and if I am in the area on a
Monday, attending a meeting will definitely be a possibility. Thanks
for that!

And thanks again for the carpentry advice, which also was
invaluable. You probably just saved us mucho bucks in having to
replace that 42" flat screen tv from the aquarium's humidity. :-)

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333


At 10:31 PM 9/28/2006, you wrote:

>When some of us started the hobby, the biological cycle was not known,
>nor was a lot of the stuff we talked about in the thread about your
>little guys. There was a lot of talk about a "balanced" aquarium, but
>what it really boiled down to, as we know today, was getting they
>biological cycle going and keeping it going. The test kits that should
>be in every fishy home were not known to us, nor available to us they
>way they are today. Now that we know what happens, and we can measure
>it, and know how to handle it, getting a tank established and on going
>should be so much easier. Unfortunately, too many go into it blind and
>need to struggle because they do not have the information, and too many
>stores do not even lead you to the information you need to be
>successful.
>
>While the discussions spawned by your questions went fairly deep, and,
>as you state, beyond your comprehension, hang on to them.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19145 From: habskahuna Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Angelfish fry
(Sent earlier but yahoo seems to be having a bad day...)

I have just 3 angelfish fry (3 weeks old) from an unplanned spawning
that I decided to try and save. They are currently in a 2.5 gallon
with a sponge filter. Is there any reason why I shouldn't move them
to a breeding trap in the 90 gallon tank where the parents live? I
suspect that a smaller enclosure would feel safer for them (they
always try to hide in a corner in the 2.5) and water quality should be
as good as or better with the cannister filter I have running in the
90. The temps are the same, around 80, and the water parameters
should be the same since I have been topping up their tank with aged
water from the big tank whenever I siphon out the mulm. Any thoughts?

Carmen
Ontario, Canada
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19146 From: Mel Bowman Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: round bellies!
My tank is mostly filled with smaller (I assumed juvenile) mollies. I'm wondering if I've just raised the first known batch of dwarf mollies though, because the small males are definately breeding and the small females suddenly have very large bellies (well, bigger than normal). One of the three males (which I swear was female up until a week ago) also has a round belly. Everyone seems healthy, I'm just wondering if I'm missing something here...

All these mollies were raised by myself and my neighbor - they havent been store-bought for several generations (at least 3). I'm quite fond of them as they have interesting color patterns. I can try to get pictures if anyone is interested.

Only two of the females are what I could consider a normal size molly...actually one is normal and one is HUGE. Everyone else is about an inch long. They're growing, but slowly.

Is it possible that I have internal paracites? There's certainly nothing wrong with them behaviorally and nothing visual that I can see.

I actually wouldnt be upset if they dont get much bigger as I think they're more fun to watch when they are small, but my tank isnt overstocked and they certainly have plenty of space to swim in a 38 gallon tank. I do water changes every week, my water quality is excellent.

Cheers,
Mel



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19147 From: chris topher Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
why is direct sun a no-no?

i like having my tanks in direct sun, the plants
always do much better, and at one point i read that
angels appreciate some direct sun per day, certainly
in my last house they got it, bred like crazy...

requires a little more algae scraping, but, shrug, not
that much trouble...

if possible i put my tanks in front of the picture
windows, love looking through the tank, hate those
background picture things...

dont really have that opportunity here...

woody



--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

> Normally, direct sun is a no-no. With work, that can
> be overcome. The
> light filtering shade will most certainly help. How
> much direct New
> England sun does that spot get during the day? Will
> this take away one
> of the dog's sunning areas?
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 1:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] My lonely
> aquarium/housing for tanks
>
> 40, 50 gallon? I do have the room, but the wall is
> next to a large
> picture window. Any way around that? I have
> shades, but they're
> light-filtering.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
> Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
> http://www.prioritiesonline.com
> :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
> Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
> http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW
> 2006-2007 fine
> sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>
> At 08:32 PM 9/29/2006, you wrote:
>
>
> >Bigger tanks are generally more stable and easy to
> take care of.
> >
> >If you are anything like most fish keepers the 29
> will be outgrown soon
> and
>
>




test'; ">

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19148 From: habskahuna Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Angelfish fry
I have just 3 angelfish fry from an unplanned spawning that I decided
to try and grow out. They are 3 weeks old today. Is there any reason
why I shouldn't put them in a breeding trap in the 90 gallon heavily
planted, fairly lightly stocked tank where their parents reside? I
think water quality might be easier to maintain with the mature
cannister filter I have running in the big tank vs. the sponge filter
in the 2.5 tank they are currently in. They seem to be hiding in one
small area of the little tank anyhow so I think the little breeding
trap might be "cozier" for them...???

Carmen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19149 From: jane parry Date: 9/30/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Thank you. I will try changing the fish food. They seem to be eating well. the tank has been up for over 2 years and I do a 20 percent water change every week. Our water is very hard. I use 2 teaspoons of aqaruim salt for the 10 gallons. I tested the water and everything seems to be OK. I may have gotten some bad fish - bought them from a different pet shop.

Thanks again
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Szabo wrote:

JP,

The curved spine has two main causes--genetic or a dietary deficiency. The hollow belly generally points to a dietary problem. You say you are feeding twice a day. Are the fish eating what you are feeding them? If they are, then the food you are feeding is not meeting the needs of the fish. Try another brand of food and/or a different variety of the brand you are now feeding. Feed no more than the fish can eat in 2 minutes. It does not matter how often they are fed--once a day, twice a day, five times a day.

You do not mention anything about your water. Have you tested it? Do you have any ammonia, nitrites? If so, your tank is still cycling, and has not reached an equilibrium. Both these fish come from at least moderately hard water. If your water is very soft, it could be contributing to your problems, and you would need to kick up the amount of calcium compounds available to the fish.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19150 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: build your own aquariums?
Building your own aquariums is not the easiest thing in the world, and often it is less expensive to find something that you can make do with and modify it from there. Check out http://www.glasscages.com for various sized aquariums

If you are not a glass cutter, you can get glass pre-cut to the sizes you need for the base and sides. Take a look at commercially available dividers which may be preferable than making your own. Once you have constructed the aquarium, you will need to sand the exposed edges to prevent accidental cuts. Not a particularly easy thing to do by hand.

Silicone can be purchased in tubes that will fit a standard caulking gun.

You will need to make yourself a jig so that you can ensure that the aquarium(s) you build are square as you build them and as the silicone cures.

Build yourself a few smaller tanks to hone your skills prior to doing the large one.

I have built a few tanks in my time, and repaired many. The building was satisfying, but not really worth the time and cost when compared to modifying an existing standard tank.

There are a number of articles on the internet that explain the process in detail, as well as those in club publications and the slicks, though I have not seen one in a slick for some time. Also do a Google on betta barracks, many show barracks for individual fish rather than breeding, and check out the IBC site for information http://www.ibcbettas.org to see if they have information there (a worthy organization to join if you are into bettas).


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 2:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] build your own aquariums?

have any of you ever built your own aquariums? And if so, do you
happen to know of any really good instructions? I'd kinda like to try
building some good breeding tanks for my bettas. I do not like the
small breeding tanks, but having seperate large tanks is a bit
problematical space wise. I'd love to make a large, long divided tank
where I could have bettas spawning in 20 gallon sections along the
tank. They would visually stimulate each other, but be safe from each
other during the spawning. It would be much easier to keep water
quality and temperature stabile as well.






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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19151 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: plan/Test it./Jeannie
Harry, Thanks for the kind words. Just a reminder though, it
appears Jeannie may possibly overloaded her 10 with salt. While the
amount she indicates she added does not appear to be all that much,
it may be more than what she calculated and/or it may be more than
some fish can tolerate since it seems like it was more than Ich that
did her guppies in. Not knowing in actuality what that amount of
salt is, I would recommend emptying or at least changing out 90% of
it.

For Jeannie's benefit, if there is substrate in place now (I'm not
sure if I read that part) as would seem reasonable, this amount of
water can be replaced without disturbing the substrate by just
putting a large dish on top of it and spilling the new water onto
that. None of the gravel will be disturbed; and since the gravel's
surface will contain at least a modest population of beneficial
bacteria (unless the salt content was excessively strong), it would
be best to try to preserve it intact. Some of that replacement water
could be the contents of the 6 gallon, if that is still the plan,
with the remainder as fresh. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> The water in the 6 and the 10 should be cycled by now.
>
> Don't empty the 10 gal.
>
> Test the 10 gal. The Betta and shrimp can probably go in now.
>
> "What Ray taught me" If you mean Ray Wetzel, I would trust his
information completely.
>
> Let us know when your ready to start up the 29 gal. We can help.
>
> Harry

>
> ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
After seeing the 3 tanks of a client yesterday, and meeting her fish,
> my plan is to try it again, only this time step up to a 29 gallon
tank.
>
> That still leaves me with the empty (of fish) 10 gallon one that
> housed the guppies who all died of ich within the past week. The
> water, substrate and deco are all still in there with the
temperature
> at 86. From what Ray taught me, all signs of ich should be out of
> there already, but to be safe, I will wait another week.
>
> Questions:
> What if I were to take all of the water from my betta's six gallon
> tank and add it to the 10 gallon once ready to empty all of its
> water, gravel and decorations, then add him and the ghost shrimp
to
> that? Wouldn't that avoid having to go through the cycling
process?
>
> Also, would a good cleaning of the filter media from the 10 gallon
> tank be sufficient, or should I get a new one?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
> Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com
> :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
> Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
> http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
> sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo!
Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19152 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Unless you would be considering a 40 Gallon Breeder tank, which I
would tend to doubt, there is a considerable difference in the length
(wall space) of a 40 Gallon Long (48") and a 50 Gallon (36"), but as
you see, a 50 Gallon is only 6" longer than a 29. If you do not want
to go that large, and have the 36" of wall space, I would recommend a
30 Long (36") rather than a 29 as although it is 2" shorter in
height, the extra length gives you so much more surface area not to
mention increased swimming area for the fish.

This increased surface area will act as a buffer of sorts when it
comes to determining how many fish you can safely stock, which can
otherwise get borderline in the summer at higher temperatures or if
and when your power goes out in a storm.

The location of this picture window has much to do with whether you
should have the the tank in its proximity. I would definitely
recommend against a southern exposure window as you're sure to have
algae problems. With your light-filtering shades, a northern
exposure would be fine, followed by an eastern exposure and then a
western exposure. A well planted aquarium will do well in such
conditions, while controlling the shades, but it must first be well
established to enable these plants to combat any threat of an algae
infestation before allowing too much natural lighting in. If
necessary, a background on the tank can help this situation. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> 40, 50 gallon? I do have the room, but the wall is next to a large
> picture window. Any way around that? I have shades, but they're
> light-filtering.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
> Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com
> :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
> Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
> http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
> sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>
> At 08:32 PM 9/29/2006, you wrote:
>
>
> >Bigger tanks are generally more stable and easy to take care of.
> >
> >If you are anything like most fish keepers the 29 will be outgrown
soon and
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19153 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
I fought a huge battle with BGA for a number of months. I, too, tried hydrogen peroxide and it made little difference and damaged my already weakened plants quite a bit. I also tried barley straw pellets which was a complete disaster (it annihilated almost all my tank inhabitants yet the BGA lived on). I was doing major water changes every day and barely feeding the fish, everything was testing perfectly and yet the stuff wouldn't go away! I had been hesitant to try antibiotics because I had some scaleless fish that I really loved that could have been sensitive to it but since they were killed in the barley straw incident I decided to go ahead with Maracyn (erythromycin) at the dose recommended on the pack. A 5 day treatment and the BGA was GONE. That was about 3 months ago. My tank is now restocked, the plants are growing like crazy again, the meds don't seem to have affected my filter (tested regularly), and no sign of BGA so far...

Carmen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19154 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: plan
I'll not tell you definately that this is okay, but when I had our tank
blowouts, with all sorts of fish illnesses when we first overpopulated
everything, when we started again, we used the same decor and substrate
and even used the old filter for a day with all new water, and the tank
cycled VERY quickly.

More recently, we started up two new tanks by filling them half full
with used tank water and putting in the used filter from the cycled
tanks into the new one. There were no problems whatsoever.

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19155 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
You can get one of those picture backs for the tank, put it on the back
and the sun will not come directly into the tank from the rear.

And my 66 gallon tank is easier to take care of than my smaller
tanks...Stays stabil much longer than the others.

> 40, 50 gallon? I do have the room, but the wall is next to a large
> picture window. Any way around that? I have shades, but they're
> light-filtering.
>
> Thanks.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19156 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish fry
I've always let the parents raise them by using a tank divider, not a
breeder net...they don't seem to need a tiny space if the parents are
tending them

> I have just 3 angelfish fry from an unplanned spawning that I decided
> to try and grow out. They are 3 weeks old today. Is there any reason
> why I shouldn't put them in a breeding trap in the 90 gallon heavily
> planted, fairly lightly stocked tank where their parents reside? I
> think water quality might be easier to maintain with the mature
> cannister filter I have running in the big tank vs. the sponge filter
> in the 2.5 tank they are currently in. They seem to be hiding in one
> small area of the little tank anyhow so I think the little breeding
> trap might be "cozier" for them...???
>
> Carmen
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19157 From: habskahuna Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: Angelfish fry
The parents or other tankmates ate the first batch of eggs...I was
going to let them try with this batch then changed my mind. In my
indecisive rush I didn't have a chance to rig up a tank divider to
protect them from the other fish, and I couldn't find one at the lfs
the size I needed (18x24). I don't know if I'd be able to fit one in
if I found it, anyhow, since the tank is heavily planted. I do think
it would be incredibly cool to watch the parents raise a batch but I'm
not sure I'm willing to put the work in to sort out the details right
now :-)

Carmen



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> I've always let the parents raise them by using a tank divider, not a
> breeder net...they don't seem to need a tiny space if the parents are
> tending them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19158 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
As has been mentioned, there is something different in the one tank that
has it from the other tanks. Determine what that may be--a rock, a piece
of driftwood, etc., and remove it. Erythromycin is known to be very
effective against blue-green algae, however, it is also effective
against your biological filter. If you need to, use it, but be prepared
for the consequences--perhaps by removing what fish you can from the
tank and place them elsewhere during the treatment and rebuilding of the
biological cycle.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patrick
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2006 4:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] blue green algae (cyanobacteria)

Hi, everybody. I have a problem with BGA in my tank. I've been trying
to
deal with it for a while. I can't figure out what is feeding it,
though. I
have the same water source, food, plants, and gravel as in another tank.
I
do water changes on both within days of each other. Any ideas why only
one
tank has BGA? Hydrogen peroxide didn't help.

Patrick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19159 From: Linda Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Odyssea CSF 4 exterior filter maintenance Ques.
I've had tons of freshwater tanks. This is my first salt. Fish store
advised the Odyssea external on my 55 gallon. I did it. It's running
fine. All zeros for a while and at 1.022 and 78 degrees. Took all
summer, but now I have fish in my established tank!
Population of:
2 bonded banded shrimp, one diamond watchman (thought he would arrive
a juvenile, but he's HUGE, 2 1/2 inches or 3!), one neon goby
(juvenile, teeny guy), one koran angel (looks to be mismarked,
juvenile, small, 1.5 inches), 2 clowns (one is mismarked, juveniles, 1
inch), one sailfin algae blenny (another I thought was a juvie and
arrived nearly 3 inches long), red and blue legged crabs, turban
snails, some grass growth I bought but I didn't write down the name.
Doesn't matter, they are eating it, lol.
I'm having too much fun with this tank.
Now for my filter:
I service it by: Once every 2 weeks: I disassemble and rinsed out
the 4 containers (internal shelf trays) in the filter. I used water
from the aquarium as I was also doing a water change. Gently,
though. I don't want to upset my fragile system(?). I figure it's
not really "inbedded" yet(?). So, I gently squeezed out the sponge
looking parts. Just gently "shook" the round cork looking things (I'm
sure they aren't cork, but they looked like it). Rinsed the bag of
charcoal stuff. Reassembled. Put it back into service.
There were NO instructions. Seems like most of this stuff comes
without instructions. I guess you gain how-to for that particular
piece of equipment/pump/light/protein skimmer by osmosis, lol.
Anyhow, so anyone who can help me to tell me exactly how violently to
clean this filter I would be beholding to you!
TIA!
Linda
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19160 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/1/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Jane,

If your water is hard out of the tap, why are you adding additional salt to the water?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jane parry
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 4:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Problem with aquarium

Thank you. I will try changing the fish food. They seem to be eating well. the tank has been up for over 2 years and I do a 20 percent water change every week. Our water is very hard. I use 2 teaspoons of aqaruim salt for the 10 gallons. I tested the water and everything seems to be OK. I may have gotten some bad fish - bought them from a different pet shop.

Thanks again
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Szabo wrote:

JP,

The curved spine has two main causes--genetic or a dietary deficiency. The hollow belly generally points to a dietary problem. You say you are feeding twice a day. Are the fish eating what you are feeding them? If they are, then the food you are feeding is not meeting the needs of the fish. Try another brand of food and/or a different variety of the brand you are now feeding. Feed no more than the fish can eat in 2 minutes. It does not matter how often they are fed--once a day, twice a day, five times a day.

You do not mention anything about your water. Have you tested it? Do you have any ammonia, nitrites? If so, your tank is still cycling, and has not reached an equilibrium. Both these fish come from at least moderately hard water. If your water is very soft, it could be contributing to your problems, and you would need to kick up the amount of calcium compounds available to the fish.

\\Steve//





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19161 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
Algae can become a major problem in a tank with direct sunlight, not only the kind you are scraping, but floating algae of the kind that turns the water green. The amount of algae will depend on many factors, and you seem to be well on your path to eliminate this problem.

As I am sitting here typing this, the sun is on my back. It is getting very warm, almost to the point of being uncomfortable, so I am going to be leaving my computer soon. The effect on the tank is the same, the water can gain heat during the day, and give it up at night. You would need to be concerned about the high point and the low point, and how much variation there is in between. If your tank rises to say 80° F during the day and falls to 75° at night, there would not be much to be concerned about. Most fish should be able to handle that swing. However, if you were consistently getting up into the 90°+ range, there would be cause for concern not only in the high temperature, but in the amount of variation.

Now, it also would depend on whether you are getting direct sunlight or indirect sunlight. There is a big difference between the two. Indirect sunlight is much easier to deal with than is direct sunlight. If you are getting direct sunlight, one hour is a bit different than four hours, and so on.

This rule of no aquariums in the window or direct sunlight is one of those general "rules of thumb" that may apply in a given situation and not apply in another. However, until a person has enough experience keeping fish and gained a knowledge of light and the aquarium, it is best to follow it. You may note the work around I have given in my original response.

You may also note that I have left out the idea of drafts and chilly windows in the winter. With the advances in window contraction and insulation of homes, this is becoming less of a problem, but if you have cold air coming in during the winter at 20°, this will have an adverse effect on your aquarium, and your heater, with the likely effect being your heater running continuously to keep the desired temperature and possibly not being able to do so because it was not sized properly for this large a difference in temperature.

You also have the factor that in most homes heating and air-conditioning vents or radiators for heat are located under the window, also adding to the problem of maintaining a proper temperature in the tank.


\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----

why is direct sun a no-no?

i like having my tanks in direct sun, the plants
always do much better, and at one point i read that
angels appreciate some direct sun per day, certainly
in my last house they got it, bred like crazy...

requires a little more algae scraping, but, shrug, not
that much trouble...

if possible i put my tanks in front of the picture
windows, love looking through the tank, hate those
background picture things...

dont really have that opportunity here...

woody
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19162 From: jane parry Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Hi Steve

I add salt because the pet shops have salt in their tanks.

Jane
------------------------------------------------------
Steve Szabo wrote:

Jane,

If your water is hard out of the tap, why are you adding additional salt to the water?

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19163 From: Patrick Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
The only difference between the tanks is a piece of driftwood that I've had
for several years. It is some of that sinking stuff from Malaysia. The BGA
only showed up in the last few months. Water levels for hardness and pH
have always stayed at the same numbers for both tanks.

I did think of one thing that happened just before the BGA showed up. My
pleco died. Is it possible that the pleco was eating the BGA? I didn't
think fish ate the stuff, but it showed up just a few months after the pleco
died.

Patrick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19164 From: chris topher Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: My lonely aquarium/housing for tanks
thanks for such a complete response...

have been lucky over the years and never had the green
water problem, probably due to the fact that i like my
tanks to look like jungles...

hair algae now and again and the inevitable glass
scraping...

really like the way the plants and fish look in the
sunlight...

but as i said in this house couldnt really place the
tanks in front of the windows...

and now that you mention the temp variations, i was in
coastal NoCal previous, very little annual variation
there...

now that i'm in wisc, gonna be a little different...

thanks again

woody
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19165 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
Some salt may be warranted, but you said you have hard water. If it is
hard coming out to the tank, then you probably do not need to add more
salt to it. Test for hardness coming out of the tap. When you get it
report it here and we can translate the reading for you, if need be to
determine whether you actually need something to bring up the hardness
of the water.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jane parry
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 6:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Problem with aquarium

Hi Steve

I add salt because the pet shops have salt in their tanks.

Jane
------------------------------------------------------
Steve Szabo wrote:

Jane,

If your water is hard out of the tap, why are you adding additional salt
to the water?

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19166 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Patrick,

So far as I am aware, there is nothing that eats blue-green algae. The
appearance of cyanobacteria like this usually indicates that there is a
problem in the tank. Too much light, too much nitrogen available, too
much waste in the tank, etc. Since you have had the wood in the tank for
several years, it may not be the problem, but it may be worthwhile to
remove it and look for signs of degeneration of the wood, rot, what
ever, and maybe give it a good cleaning to remove anything that may be
trapped in it. Once you have gone through the tank, tests, cleaning,
searching, dose it with erythromycin, and keep an eye on your fishes
behavior and the ammonia level. You may want to start with a half dose.

Cyanobacteria is an ancient form from which algae evolved. As such, it
can be quite the pain to remove.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patrick
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 3:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)

The only difference between the tanks is a piece of driftwood that I've
had
for several years. It is some of that sinking stuff from Malaysia. The
BGA
only showed up in the last few months. Water levels for hardness and pH

have always stayed at the same numbers for both tanks.

I did think of one thing that happened just before the BGA showed up.
My
pleco died. Is it possible that the pleco was eating the BGA? I didn't

think fish ate the stuff, but it showed up just a few months after the
pleco
died.

Patrick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19167 From: dragonman_999 Date: 10/2/2006
Subject: bump
My goldfish has a red sore-like bump under his gill (not inside) just
on the right side. Any ideas what this may be?

Thanks
Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19168 From: jane parry Date: 10/3/2006
Subject: Re: Problem with aquarium
I will test it and let you know. Thanks for the help
------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Szabo wrote:

Some salt may be warranted, but you said you have hard water. If it is
hard coming out to the tank, then you probably do not need to add more
salt to it. Test for hardness coming out of the tap. When you get it
report it here and we can translate the reading for you, if need be to
determine whether you actually need something to bring up the hardness
of the water.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19169 From: Jennifer Date: 10/3/2006
Subject: The Big Move
Hello everyone,

Well as you all are aware we are getting ready to move cross country!
I know this is not going to be easy as I have decided that we are
taking the fish?! I have almost completely emptied the 55 gallon tank
and have transferred all the fish into the 10 gallon tank. I know it
is going to be crowded for them for a few days but it is better than
leaving them behind?! I was going to just get rid of them but after
several days of contimplating this idea I opted not too! Because I
have it in my head that no one will take care of them like I will! But
we will be pulling out of here on Thursday and hope to arrive in
Portland no later than Sunday?! That is if all goes well! So after
tomorrow night I will have my account with this group set to no emails
and once we get all settled in I will change that back. But I hope to
be talking to you all very soon! Once again thank you all for your
help and support!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19170 From: Patrick Date: 10/3/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
It could be some rot in the driftwood. I never thought about that, but some of it does look like it is getting softer than it used to be. If it is rot, should I keep it out or just clean the rotten areas off and put it back in?

Patrick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19171 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/3/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
I'd say that would be your call. I'd at least leave it out until the
blue-green algae is gone before putting the wood back in. If the wood is
rotting, or going soft, it may be more trouble than it is worth to
remove the soft spots, since not only do you need to scrape away the
softness, but you need to carve out some of the hardwood to ensure you
have removed all of the soft wood.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patrick
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 5:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)

It could be some rot in the driftwood. I never thought about that, but
some of it does look like it is getting softer than it used to be. If
it is rot, should I keep it out or just clean the rotten areas off and
put it back in?

Patrick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19172 From: supamii Date: 10/3/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
I'm currently battling cyanobacteria as well. If you have a planted
tank, you may look into this site:
http://www.xs4all.nl/~buddendo/aquarium/redfield_eng.htm.

I've recieved lots of recommendations to keep phosphates less than 0.5
and nitrates between 10-20. The site I offered above mentions a 1:26
ratio to keep blue-green algae in check.

gregwatson.com offers dry ferts but you can always purchase seachem
products (phophorous and nitrogen) from drfostersmith.com.

aquariaplants.com and aquariumalgae.blogspot.com will cover all you
need for algae in planted tanks. you may also search forums at
aquahobby.com and plantedtank.net for further help.

currently my plan is to do a 3 day black-out, remove the dead
cyanobacteria and continue to maintain appropriate phosphate and
nitrate levels.

hope this helps, antibiotics should be used as a very last resort.
g'luck.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19173 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/4/2006
Subject: Re: The Big Move
Good luck with your move, but remember when moving fish, it is best for
them to travel in narrow, upright containers, like kitty litter buckets
or some such. There is less sloshing, therefore less stress. And I
wouldn't worry too much about it...my bettas arrived today after six
days in tiny bags, from Thailand, and are doing fine. Just some basic
precautions and all should be well. Good on ya, taking them with you!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19174 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/4/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
With my driftwood I watch it for signs of rot and mushiness (beyond
that of the exterior sloughing of material) and when I see a soft spot
developing, I take the wood out, scrub it good, whittle out the mushy
spot, then soak it in hard water for a few days. Then I rinse it off
and put it back in the tank.

> It could be some rot in the driftwood. I never thought about that,
but some of it does look like it is getting softer than it used to be.
If it is rot, should I keep it out or just clean the rotten areas off
and put it back in?
>
> Patrick
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19175 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 10/4/2006
Subject: Re: The Big Move
Wish ya luck with the move and hope yall like yer new home. Let us know how the fish smuggling goes. ;)

-Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 1:37 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] The Big Move


Hello everyone,

Well as you all are aware we are getting ready to move cross country!
I know this is not going to be easy as I have decided that we are
taking the fish?! I have almost completely emptied the 55 gallon tank
and have transferred all the fish into the 10 gallon tank. I know it
is going to be crowded for them for a few days but it is better than
leaving them behind?! I was going to just get rid of them but after
several days of contimplating this idea I opted not too! Because I
have it in my head that no one will take care of them like I will! But
we will be pulling out of here on Thursday and hope to arrive in
Portland no later than Sunday?! That is if all goes well! So after
tomorrow night I will have my account with this group set to no emails
and once we get all settled in I will change that back. But I hope to
be talking to you all very soon! Once again thank you all for your
help and support!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19177 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA 5 MINIT LAGI
?????? What the heck was that???? I don't understand. Am I missing something?

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19178 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA 5 MINIT LAGI
Hi

Nope, guess your not missing anything. I believe that was written in
the Indonesian Language and even I myself do not speak it. Perhaps the
person who wrote it cold possibly write it in English?

Ivan
South Dakota
USA

Morganawolf1@... wrote:
>
> ?????? What the heck was that???? I don't understand. Am I missing
> something?
>
> Harvest wishes
> Karen
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

--
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19179 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA 5 MINIT LAGI
I wondered the exact same thing.
Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA 5 MINIT LAGI


?????? What the heck was that???? I don't understand. Am I missing something?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19180 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA 5 MINIT LAGI
Sorry guys,

I think this somehow skipped the Moderators scanning. The user has now been
Banned.

Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: 05 October 2006 20:59
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA
5 MINIT LAGI



I wondered the exact same thing.
Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Morganawolf1@ <mailto:Morganawolf1%40aol.com> aol.com
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] DUIT AKAN TERBANG MASUK KE POKET ANDA DALAM MASA
5 MINIT LAGI

?????? What the heck was that???? I don't understand. Am I missing
something?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security
tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web,
free AOL Mail and more.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19181 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Cloudy water
The water in my 90 gallon is always cloudy. I don't feed too much either. It
looks like just debris always floating around, enough so that it makes the
water cloudy. How can I fix this?

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19182 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water
how new is the tank? How often do you do water changes and how much?


----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 6, 2006 12:14:41 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy water

The water in my 90 gallon is always cloudy. I don't feed too much either. It
looks like just debris always floating around, enough so that it makes the
water cloudy. How can I fix this?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19183 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water
I don't do water changes enough. I just did a major cleanout last Sunday and
the water the next day was crystal clear. Now, its cloudy again.

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19184 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/5/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water
Well did you break down the tank completely? If so that could be why it is cloudy. There is a cycle in the tank to breakdown the fish waste, excess food, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Everytime you empty out your tank you restart the cycle creating whats called a new tank syndom. On water changes you only do a portion at a time. Some ppl test their tank once a week for pH, Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates and that helps to determine how much of a water change they should do. The idle readings would be Ammonia - 0 Nitrites - 0 and Nitrates no more than 20. If they are off you should do water changes once a week at 10-20 % the most. Some ppl even do it just 25% once a month but that is for a fully established tank. Plus how much you feed makes a difference too. Once every other day a small pinch is plenty for them.


----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 6, 2006 1:14:48 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cloudy water

I don't do water changes enough. I just did a major cleanout last Sunday and
the water the next day was crystal clear. Now, its cloudy again.

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19185 From: Patrick Date: 10/6/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
I went ahead and took the wood out. I think it made my firemouth angry, but he can deal with it. The wood did have some soft places on it, and I'm not sure what I'll do with it. I turned off the light and did a 50% water change, so I'll wait a while and see if the BGA goes away. If it is still growing after a few weeks, should I assume it wasn't the driftwood and look for something else?

Patrick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19186 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water
What kind of filtration do you have?
You may be able to add a prefilter to your filter or use filter floss to polish the water. That is good for cleaning up the water but it would be nice to know what the cause of the problem is so we can stop the debris floating. Any chance it is fish waste? What do you have in the tank in the way of fish, plants, snails etc. A plecostomus or goldfish can make a tank filthy.


-----Original Message-----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 9:14 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy water


The water in my 90 gallon is always cloudy. I don't feed too much either. It
looks like just debris always floating around, enough so that it makes the
water cloudy. How can I fix this?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19187 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/6/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
Patrick,
You can always buy him a cheap terra cotta flowerpot and lay it on its side. He can be kind of the hill again with a cave to protect.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: patrickmn@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 6:21 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)


I went ahead and took the wood out. I think it made my firemouth angry, but he can deal with it. The wood did have some soft places on it, and I'm not sure what I'll do with it. I turned off the light and did a 50% water change, so I'll wait a while and see if the BGA goes away. If it is still growing after a few weeks, should I assume it wasn't the driftwood and look for something else?

Patrick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19188 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water
Karen,

You state that there are particles suspended in the water. This would
first point me toward the filter and that there is probably a good
amount of water bypassing the filter media. What type of filter are you
using--not brand, but the type--canister, HOT (hang off the tank), or
submerged? If you can see the water flow in the filter, does it look
like it is bypassing the media somehow?

Next, we need to determine if the filter is sized properly for the tank.
We would be looking for a filter that can turn over the water volume of
the tank 5-6 times an hour In other words, you need to have a pump
capable of pushing 450-540 gallons per hour. If the filter is not
properly sized, it cannot do the filtration you expect of it, it gets
clogged too quickly and then water starts to bypass the clogged media.

I think if we can work through the filter problem, we would probably
resolve the issue.

There are three main types of filtration: biological; chemical; and
mechanical. Biological filtration is the cycle we talk of so often here.
Chemical filtration is normally not necessary, and when it is, it is
usually accomplished by using activated carbon to remove certain
chemicals from the water faster than can be done with water changes,
unless we do massive water changes. Most chemical filtration is
non-specific in that it removes the bad stuff along with the good
indiscriminately. Finally, there is mechanical filtration which removes
solid matter from the water. The size of the matter removed depends on
the media used. Also, it depends on the amount of matter the filter
media can hold as the filter traps more, it traps smaller and smaller
sized particles until it can hold no more, at which time the water will
attempt to bypass the media. As this happens, one can notice, also, a
decrease in the water flow. If the water cannot bypass the media in some
way, the flow will eventually stop.

There are various types of media that can be used for each type of
filtration, each with its own pluses and minuses.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 12:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy water

The water in my 90 gallon is always cloudy. I don't feed too much
either. It
looks like just debris always floating around, enough so that it makes
the
water cloudy. How can I fix this?

Harvest wishes
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19189 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/7/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
As has been mentioned, give your firemouth something else to guard, you
will be better for it, he will be better for it, and his tank mates will
be better for it.

What may happen, with the wood removed, is that the algal mat will
remain but no longer grow. It will be maintaining itself from the
nutrients available in the tank. Should this be the case, a treatment of
erythromycin should end the issue.

If it continues to grow, there are still excess nutrients in the tank,
and you will need to locate the source. You may need to reduce the fish
load in the tank, you may find something rotting in the back, almost
anything. Cyanobacteria are pretty simple organisms

If it decreases, you are winning the battle. It would still be wise to
treat with erythromycin to remove it completely.

When using erythromycin, you will need to watch your fish to ensure they
are not adversely affected by the drug, and you will need t watch your
ammonia level since it will contribute to the demise of the nitrosoma
and nitrobacter that cycle your tank (despite what it may say on the
label).


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patrick
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 9:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)

I went ahead and took the wood out. I think it made my firemouth angry,
but he can deal with it. The wood did have some soft places on it, and
I'm not sure what I'll do with it. I turned off the light and did a 50%
water change, so I'll wait a while and see if the BGA goes away. If it
is still growing after a few weeks, should I assume it wasn't the
driftwood and look for something else?

Patrick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19190 From: Aaron Date: 10/7/2006
Subject: Newt / Salamander?'s
Hi All, Anybody here have experience with Newts and or Salamanders?
Is there a difference? What should I feed it? It appears to have
shed its skin, Is this normal? It is a reddish color with small mostly
symmetrical black dots and is about 4 to 5 inches in length.
It mostly just hides all the time. It ate some worms while acclimating
in the bucket when I brought it home on Monday. I haven't seen it eat
since I put it in the aquarium. It is in an Eclipse System 12 with about
20 or so small platy fry.
It is well camouflaged in there with faded black Eco-complete substrate
and red lava rock. I put a bunch of live tubifex worms in there and
they were right in front of its face and it did not even try to eat
them. I also have prepared food - "Newt & Salamander Bites" by HBH Any
help would be great, Thanks
Aaron


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19191 From: harry perry Date: 10/7/2006
Subject: Re: Newt / Salamander?'s/Aaron
Go to http://www.anapsid.org/sallies.html. This will help.

Harry

Aaron <anonymous122899@...> wrote: Hi All, Anybody here have experience with Newts and or Salamanders?
Is there a difference? What should I feed it? It appears to have
shed its skin, Is this normal? It is a reddish color with small mostly
symmetrical black dots and is about 4 to 5 inches in length.
It mostly just hides all the time. It ate some worms while acclimating
in the bucket when I brought it home on Monday. I haven't seen it eat
since I put it in the aquarium. It is in an Eclipse System 12 with about
20 or so small platy fry.
It is well camouflaged in there with faded black Eco-complete substrate
and red lava rock. I put a bunch of live tubifex worms in there and
they were right in front of its face and it did not even try to eat
them. I also have prepared food - "Newt & Salamander Bites" by HBH Any
help would be great, Thanks
Aaron

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19192 From: rhayneslcsw Date: 10/7/2006
Subject: Bumps on Oscar
My Oscar has a white bump looking thing right below his mouth. I've
been watching it for a while and just noticed tonight that he has
another one. t looks like a blister but is an opaque white color. Any
ideas about what this might be?

Regina
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19193 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Bumps on Oscar
Bacterial, parasites...it could be a number of things. Check your water
quality & try to take a picture where the group can see the spot. Post
the picture & your water test results. Right below the mouth as in it
would be on his lip (if fish had lips)? That would make me think
bacterial. Where on his body is the other spot coming in?

L



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of rhayneslcsw
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 7:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bumps on Oscar



My Oscar has a white bump looking thing right below his mouth. I've
been watching it for a while and just noticed tonight that he has
another one. t looks like a blister but is an opaque white color. Any
ideas about what this might be?

Regina







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19194 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: A blue angelfish?
One of my angels has been turning an irredesent blue/teal color for some
time. Well I've been away for almost a week and now that I'm back he
has turned almost completely blue. Especially the long trails
underneath, they are very blue.
Is there such a thing as this naturally? He was not blue at all when
purchased. It's really pretty but really odd too.
~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19195 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
Aloha

I'm a relatively new member and could really use some
help w/this problem: I just started a p.t. teaching
job at a private, mostly-Japanese elementary school.
I was monitoring a Study Hall in one of the teacher's
classrms - all of which are so spotless you could
literally eat off the floors - and I see this tiny
glass bowl, the size you put a betta in, with a
good-size goldfish swimming in circles. The water was
absolutely green and filthy and had clearly not been
changed in wks, if at all, and I just felt so sorry
for this fish.

Well I'm the new kid on the block at this school and
this particular teacher is totally anal. Like the kids
didn't correctly put away their toys and books so she
forbade them from using them, and won't let the kids
use her pencil sharpener and took away the scotch tape
and emptied out the staples from her stapler! Which is
why I need help...

I will gladly *buy* her a decent size bowl - she's got
an empty 10-gallon w/no fish which she apprently isn't
using but she apparently doesn't want to use - but I
want that fish out of that thing. I don't think she
takes it home on the weekends either and w/this 3-day
holiday, I don't know how it's getting fed, and I
don't think she even cares.

If I confront her I'm in for it. But am I not correct
that this poor thing is being treated miserably, and
what do you suggest?

Cinde


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19196 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
Perhaps if you found a good article on goldfish on the web and placed it on her desk anonymously, that may help. The problem is that if you do not want to confront her directly, there is not much that can be done. You might try working a mention of the fish into a conversation with her in a public place, like the teachers' room (they still have those, don't they? You know, the place where the teachers go to have a smoke and do some of the things they tell the kids not to do?)


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 4:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish

Aloha

I'm a relatively new member and could really use some
help w/this problem: I just started a p.t. teaching
job at a private, mostly-Japanese elementary school.
I was monitoring a Study Hall in one of the teacher's
classrms - all of which are so spotless you could
literally eat off the floors - and I see this tiny
glass bowl, the size you put a betta in, with a
good-size goldfish swimming in circles. The water was
absolutely green and filthy and had clearly not been
changed in wks, if at all, and I just felt so sorry
for this fish.

Well I'm the new kid on the block at this school and
this particular teacher is totally anal. Like the kids
didn't correctly put away their toys and books so she
forbade them from using them, and won't let the kids
use her pencil sharpener and took away the scotch tape
and emptied out the staples from her stapler! Which is
why I need help...

I will gladly *buy* her a decent size bowl - she's got
an empty 10-gallon w/no fish which she apprently isn't
using but she apparently doesn't want to use - but I
want that fish out of that thing. I don't think she
takes it home on the weekends either and w/this 3-day
holiday, I don't know how it's getting fed, and I
don't think she even cares.

If I confront her I'm in for it. But am I not correct
that this poor thing is being treated miserably, and
what do you suggest?

Cinde


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19197 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
I have seen angels from the wild that have had a bluish color to them in the striping on the body and fins, but I have not seen a 'blue" angel, though one may have been developed. A quick Google shows many references to a blue angel which is a marine fish, not at all like the freshwater angel we are familiar with.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 3:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] A blue angelfish?

One of my angels has been turning an irredesent blue/teal color for some
time. Well I've been away for almost a week and now that I'm back he
has turned almost completely blue. Especially the long trails
underneath, they are very blue.
Is there such a thing as this naturally? He was not blue at all when
purchased. It's really pretty but really odd too.
~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19198 From: Chris Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Sounds fantastic!

Could you possibly put some photos in the gallery here?

Have you considered breeding it?

Chris.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> One of my angels has been turning an irredesent blue/teal color for
some
> time. Well I've been away for almost a week and now that I'm back
he
> has turned almost completely blue. Especially the long trails
> underneath, they are very blue.
> Is there such a thing as this naturally? He was not blue at all
when
> purchased. It's really pretty but really odd too.
> ~Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19199 From: Donna Ransome Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
Is she the science teacher?



Maybe you could go to someone in the administration or the science teacher
(who should know better and would naturally take an interest in the
well-being of biological specimens) and ask them to speak to her.



Skipping the feedings is actually healthy for some fish (not sure about
goldfish), the dirty water is the worst to me.



According to goldfish people on this list, anything but a 30 gallon would be
too small.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 4:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish



Aloha

I'm a relatively new member and could really use some
help w/this problem: I just started a p.t. teaching
job at a private, mostly-Japanese elementary school.
I was monitoring a Study Hall in one of the teacher's
classrms - all of which are so spotless you could
literally eat off the floors - and I see this tiny
glass bowl, the size you put a betta in, with a
good-size goldfish swimming in circles. The water was
absolutely green and filthy and had clearly not been
changed in wks, if at all, and I just felt so sorry
for this fish.

Well I'm the new kid on the block at this school and
this particular teacher is totally anal. Like the kids
didn't correctly put away their toys and books so she
forbade them from using them, and won't let the kids
use her pencil sharpener and took away the scotch tape
and emptied out the staples from her stapler! Which is
why I need help...

I will gladly *buy* her a decent size bowl - she's got
an empty 10-gallon w/no fish which she apprently isn't
using but she apparently doesn't want to use - but I
want that fish out of that thing. I don't think she
takes it home on the weekends either and w/this 3-day
holiday, I don't know how it's getting fed, and I
don't think she even cares.

If I confront her I'm in for it. But am I not correct
that this poor thing is being treated miserably, and
what do you suggest?

Cinde

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19200 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
I just posted some pictures in the album "130 Fresh". They don't
capture it quite as well as in person. The trails are very blue and are
not so much so in the pictures. Also his body has a very blue/green
shimmer to it that doesn't show in the pictures.
At first I thought I was crazy but now seeing these photos and comparing
him to the other fish, I see I'm not so nuts.

This fish has paired off with the more compact finned angel. (I will
have to move the other veil pretty soon as his fins are showing signs of
being nipped.) I know nothing about breeding them but I guess I could
try to see if some have this blue hue to them. I bought this one when
he was a dime size in the body, and there was no blue showing then.

LM


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 5:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: A blue angelfish?



Sounds fantastic!

Could you possibly put some photos in the gallery here?

Have you considered breeding it?

Chris.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> One of my angels has been turning an irredesent blue/teal color for
some
> time. Well I've been away for almost a week and now that I'm back
he
> has turned almost completely blue. Especially the long trails
> underneath, they are very blue.
> Is there such a thing as this naturally? He was not blue at all
when
> purchased. It's really pretty but really odd too.
> ~Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19201 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
That would be approximately 30 gallons for a FULL GROWN ADULT goldfish. The size you usually see them in a store can be accommodated with a smaller tank, but eventually, they'll need the near 30 gallons per fish, so we like to bring that up as soon as possible in the discussion so that people will have an idea what they are getting themselves into.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 7:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish

Is she the science teacher?



Maybe you could go to someone in the administration or the science teacher
(who should know better and would naturally take an interest in the
well-being of biological specimens) and ask them to speak to her.



Skipping the feedings is actually healthy for some fish (not sure about
goldfish), the dirty water is the worst to me.



According to goldfish people on this list, anything but a 30 gallon would be
too small.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 4:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish



Aloha

I'm a relatively new member and could really use some
help w/this problem: I just started a p.t. teaching
job at a private, mostly-Japanese elementary school.
I was monitoring a Study Hall in one of the teacher's
classrms - all of which are so spotless you could
literally eat off the floors - and I see this tiny
glass bowl, the size you put a betta in, with a
good-size goldfish swimming in circles. The water was
absolutely green and filthy and had clearly not been
changed in wks, if at all, and I just felt so sorry
for this fish.

Well I'm the new kid on the block at this school and
this particular teacher is totally anal. Like the kids
didn't correctly put away their toys and books so she
forbade them from using them, and won't let the kids
use her pencil sharpener and took away the scotch tape
and emptied out the staples from her stapler! Which is
why I need help...

I will gladly *buy* her a decent size bowl - she's got
an empty 10-gallon w/no fish which she apprently isn't
using but she apparently doesn't want to use - but I
want that fish out of that thing. I don't think she
takes it home on the weekends either and w/this 3-day
holiday, I don't know how it's getting fed, and I
don't think she even cares.

If I confront her I'm in for it. But am I not correct
that this poor thing is being treated miserably, and
what do you suggest?

Cinde

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19202 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
well I am a teacher and have had to deal with this among co teachers a
lot... I simply just ask a few nice gestured questions offering to help clean it
usually that spawns some advice wanted from the teacher.. maybe you could talk
to her about the bigger tank.. maybe she is wanting to set it up.. who
knows.. just approach it with kindness and I think there should be nothing to be
felt guilty about even if she says no.. Shannon




Aloha

I'm a relatively new member and could really use some
help w/this problem: I just started a p.t. teaching
job at a private, mostly-Japanese elementary school.
I was monitoring a Study Hall in one of the teacher's
classrms - all of which are so spotless you could
literally eat off the floors - and I see this tiny
glass bowl, the size you put a betta in, with a
good-size goldfish swimming in circles. The water was
absolutely green and filthy and had clearly not been
changed in wks, if at all, and I just felt so sorry
for this fish.

Well I'm the new kid on the block at this school and
this particular teacher is totally anal. Like the kids
didn't correctly put away their toys and books so she
forbade them from using them, and won't let the kids
use her pencil sharpener and took away the scotch tape
and emptied out the staples from her stapler! Which is
why I need help...

I will gladly *buy* her a decent size bowl - she's got
an empty 10-gallon w/no fish which she apprently isn't
using but she apparently doesn't want to use - but I
want that fish out of that thing. I don't think she
takes it home on the weekends either and w/this 3-day
holiday, I don't know how it's getting fed, and I
don't think she even cares.

If I confront her I'm in for it. But am I not correct
that this poor thing is being treated miserably, and
what do you suggest?

Cinde








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19203 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
hahah funny.. at least I think your trying to be funny as there is no
smoking at all on school premises.. I work in elementary aged kids and to my
knowledge I haven't seen a single teacher smoke that I work with that is... but I
did go to school with a girl that smoked and we all wondered how she would be
a teacher cause she was like one of those chain smokers.. all our new schools
in the dist don't even have staff rooms as we are so full up but I think that
was a good suggestion about the article.. however the chance that someone
would see you put it in her room is high so I would have it put in her mailbox
in the school..which yes has a lot more ppl around but its such a common
thing that no one would think anything of it.. Shannon




Perhaps if you found a good article on goldfish on the web and placed it on
her desk anonymously, that may help. The problem is that if you do not want to
confront her directly, there is not much that can be done. You might try
working a mention of the fish into a conversation with her in a public place,
like the teachers' room (they still have those, don't they? You know, the
place where the teachers go to have a smoke and do some of the things they tell
the kids not to do?)









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19204 From: Al Date: 10/8/2006
Subject: Comet Goldfish
Hi, My name is Al and I am new to this group. I raised tropical fish
and gold fish when I was younger. The goldfish was the type you won at
a county fair and we had one in a one gallon bowl for several years and
just changed the water once or twice a week. I have been reading all
the post on goldfish in this group and keeping fish has really changed
since I was younger. What I want to do is put two comet goldfish in a
10 gallon tank now and in the spring put them in an outdoor pond. I
live in NC so the winters aren't that bad. The pond I am looking at
won't be that big, one of those black plastic ones from Lowes. I think
the two fish will be ok for the next few months in the 10 gal.tank, I
don't have the room for a larger tank. Thanks in advance for any
advice. Al
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19205 From: Saphire Draco Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish
The fish will die eventually from the abuse, if you
can get into her class after she goes home, sneak the
fish out in a baggy and take it home. If she asks tell
her the fish died, because it will soon in those
conditions. or point it out to the head of the school
and tell him she isn't being a good example to her
students because she is not taking responsable care of
the fish.

--- agentscullyeyore@... wrote:

>
> hahah funny.. at least I think your trying to be
> funny as there is no
> smoking at all on school premises.. I work in
> elementary aged kids and to my
> knowledge I haven't seen a single teacher smoke that
> I work with that is... but I
> did go to school with a girl that smoked and we all
> wondered how she would be
> a teacher cause she was like one of those chain
> smokers.. all our new schools
> in the dist don't even have staff rooms as we are
> so full up but I think that
> was a good suggestion about the article.. however
> the chance that someone
> would see you put it in her room is high so I would
> have it put in her mailbox
> in the school..which yes has a lot more ppl around
> but its such a common
> thing that no one would think anything of it..
> Shannon
>
>
>
>
> Perhaps if you found a good article on goldfish on
> the web and placed it on
> her desk anonymously, that may help. The problem is
> that if you do not want to
> confront her directly, there is not much that can
> be done. You might try
> working a mention of the fish into a conversation
> with her in a public place,
> like the teachers' room (they still have those,
> don't they? You know, the
> place where the teachers go to have a smoke and do
> some of the things they tell
> the kids not to do?)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19206 From: snerticus Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Wow! Maybe he's got some Discus in him... :-P

Just kidding...I would keep an eye on him and see if you can breed
the trait into a new blue line!

Keep trying to get good pics and post them if you're satisfied with
the way they look. Would like to see more.

Speaking of pictures, my camera has a macro function on it, but it
can only go so far. I took a pic of a planaria that seemed to be
gigantic in my tank (but it was only about 1/4" long - most of the
planaria I have are maybe 1/16" long)and it looks like a "ghost"
moving on the tank wall. Probably would be a good shot for Halloween
I guess.

Maybe I'll put some general pics up in a folder someday...

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I just posted some pictures in the album "130 Fresh". They don't
> capture it quite as well as in person. The trails are very blue
and are
> not so much so in the pictures. Also his body has a very blue/green
> shimmer to it that doesn't show in the pictures.
> At first I thought I was crazy but now seeing these photos and
comparing
> him to the other fish, I see I'm not so nuts.
>
> This fish has paired off with the more compact finned angel. (I
will
> have to move the other veil pretty soon as his fins are showing
signs of
> being nipped.) I know nothing about breeding them but I guess I
could
> try to see if some have this blue hue to them. I bought this one
when
> he was a dime size in the body, and there was no blue showing then.
>
> LM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19207 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: Comet Goldfish
You probably have two comet goldfish. They are distinguished by a relatively slim body and the caudal (tail) ends in points. The common goldfish has a chunkier body and the caudal is rounded.

The 10 gallon will probably be OK for a couple of months for the two fish, assuming the normal size I see in shops. The pond shell you are getting should be fine for them to grow in and live in as adults. The only drawback would be the depth of the pond, it may not be deep enough to go below the frost line in your area, and therefore you do have the possibility of the pond freezing solid in the winter, or solid enough not to give the fish any space. This would necessitate bring the fish in during the winter with appropriately sized quarters for them. Some build ponds in their basements or garages (depending on the climate and the temperature of the garage) using black polyethylene liner and a couple of 2x6 board widths high, supported by 4x4's or more 2x6's along with power filters to provide the proper filtration.

You'll also want to provide plantings to give the fish some shade during the day. This can be a tough thing to do, because the fish will want to eat the plants if they are edible, and probably even try to eat those that are not. There are a number of useful pond websites out there on the web, and also you do have the suppliers, like Tricker's and Lilypons to get more information about your project from. You can also look in your area for someone who specializes in ponds and shop there to get information that is useful to you--like over wintering in your area.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 1:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Comet Goldfish

Hi, My name is Al and I am new to this group. I raised tropical fish
and gold fish when I was younger. The goldfish was the type you won at
a county fair and we had one in a one gallon bowl for several years and
just changed the water once or twice a week. I have been reading all
the post on goldfish in this group and keeping fish has really changed
since I was younger. What I want to do is put two comet goldfish in a
10 gallon tank now and in the spring put them in an outdoor pond. I
live in NC so the winters aren't that bad. The pond I am looking at
won't be that big, one of those black plastic ones from Lowes. I think
the two fish will be ok for the next few months in the 10 gal.tank, I
don't have the room for a larger tank. Thanks in advance for any
advice. Al





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19208 From: ftuitele Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Someone please help me with the setup of my new tank.
Hello, I recently purchased a second hand 15 gallon tank for my
goldfish because she is getting to big for the 8 gallon. I set it
up, and the water was beatiful crystal clear. I was told that when
setting up a new environment for my goldfish that I would have to
let the whole thing run for atleast 48 hours. Well today would mark
that 48 hours and I was so excited to transport my fish to its new
tank, however, when I woke up this morning the water that was just 2
days ago, crystal clear, is now all cloudy. I did buy some
bacterial booster, that I was told is good for new setups too, which
I had put in last night before going to bed. The directions read
1ml per gallon H2O so, I had measured 15ml and poured it in. Could
this be the reason for the cloudiness? If so, will it clear up?
Also, is it safe to transport my goldfish into this cloudy water
fish tank?

Also, I have this little liquid bottle that is supposed to help
clear cloudy/merky water. I'm a little hesitant to use this because
it's dark in color(like iodine), and I'm afraid it will just add to
the cloudiness. Does anyone know if these little bottles for
clearing the water work?

One more thing, when I purchased this tank, it had everything but a
missing hood. The light covers most of the tank, but there is still
quite a bit that is open and exposed. Is this safe for the fish?
Could or would she jump out? Can anybody give me some advice on
what to do. Thank you so much for your help! I appreciate the
feedback.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19209 From: Patrick Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: blue green algae (cyanobacteria)
If I lower the fish load any more, there won't be any fish. Right now all I have is a glolight, a black skirt, and the Burny the firemouth in a 29 gallon tank medium planted. Burny moved into a plastic ship, so he is taken care of. I've been working on the wood a little at a time, and it looks like the bga is not growing anymore, and might be receding. :)

Patrick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19210 From: jane parry Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: Someone please help me with the setup of my new tank.
Hi

I have had cloudy water before too and I used Clear All (it was dark in color too). It worked very well and did not bother the fish.

Be careful of used aqariums. If they have been stored for a long time the sealer will not hold. I got up for work on morning and the tank was dry and the floor was wet.

When a top does not fit properly, I cover it will plastic wrap to be on the safe side. It keeps the fish in and dust out.

Good luck on your new aquarium

Jane
e <ftuitele@...> wrote:
Hello, I recently purchased a second hand 15 gallon tank for my
goldfish because she is getting to big for the 8 gallon. I set it
up, and the water was beatiful crystal clear. I was told that when
setting up a new environment for my goldfish that I would have to
let the whole thing run for atleast 48 hours. Well today would mark
that 48 hours and I was so excited to transport my fish to its new
tank, however, when I woke up this morning the water that was just 2
days ago, crystal clear, is now all cloudy. I did buy some
bacterial booster, that I was told is good for new setups too, which
I had put in last night before going to bed. The directions read
1ml per gallon H2O so, I had measured 15ml and poured it in. Could
this be the reason for the cloudiness? If so, will it clear up?
Also, is it safe to transport my goldfish into this cloudy water
fish tank?

Also, I have this little liquid bottle that is supposed to help
clear cloudy/merky water. I'm a little hesitant to use this because
it's dark in color(like iodine), and I'm afraid it will just add to
the cloudiness. Does anyone know if these little bottles for
clearing the water work?

One more thing, when I purchased this tank, it had everything but a
missing hood. The light covers most of the tank, but there is still
quite a bit that is open and exposed. Is this safe for the fish?
Could or would she jump out? Can anybody give me some advice on
what to do. Thank you so much for your help! I appreciate the
feedback.





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19211 From: jane parry Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: Comet Goldfish
Hi Al

I have a friend who put feeder gold fish in an outside pond and now they are breeding and doing great. We live in New Mexico so our winters are mild be we do freeze every night. They don't seem to mind.

Maybe you can look into a heater for those really cold nights.

Jane

Al <mcconnell63@...> wrote:
Hi, My name is Al and I am new to this group. I raised tropical fish
and gold fish when I was younger. The goldfish was the type you won at
a county fair and we had one in a one gallon bowl for several years and
just changed the water once or twice a week. I have been reading all
the post on goldfish in this group and keeping fish has really changed
since I was younger. What I want to do is put two comet goldfish in a
10 gallon tank now and in the spring put them in an outdoor pond. I
live in NC so the winters aren't that bad. The pond I am looking at
won't be that big, one of those black plastic ones from Lowes. I think
the two fish will be ok for the next few months in the 10 gal.tank, I
don't have the room for a larger tank. Thanks in advance for any
advice. Al






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19212 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: Someone please help me with the setup of my new tank.
You are probably suffering from what is known as new tank syndrome. A whitish or greyish cloudiness indicates a bacterial bloom, and a greenish cloudiness indicates an algal bloom. Since you did not say, I'm assuming a bacterial bloom from the other comments in your message. However, the procedure to resolving either issue does not differ much.

It takes more than 48 hours to cycle a tank. I've not seen much that can shorten the normal 4-8 weeks for a cycle to be established. Bio-spira has been mentioned here often enough as being one thing that does work, but I have not tried it yet. Using a filter or filtration media from an old tank has been noted to speed up the cycle a bit, as does seeding the tank with gravel from another tank that has been using undergravel filtration. I generally do a fishless cycle, which requires the use of ammonia added to the tank to reach a level of 5 ppm, and maintaining that level until all the ammonia is consumed in a day, and the nitrites measure 0 ppm. At that time fish can be added.

Adding the fish after 48 hours only means you are using the fish to cycle the tank. The fish will provide the ammonia to be converted. In doing this one usually uses fish they do not intend to maintain long term, because it is certain that there will be losses in the fish population you use. The ammonia will spike, then the nitrites will spike, and finally both will register 0 ppm.

A cloudy tank is a not uncommon side effect of the cycle establishing itself. Many times the cycle will happen just fine and the water will not cloud. Occasionally, enough that it has a name, the water will gain a cloudy look to it. If it is greyish or whitish, as mentioned above, it is due to an overgrowth of bacteria. This is a temporary effect, and should gradually subside by itself over the course of a few weeks. It really does not matter if the tank is used, as someone else has mentioned, or if it has never been used before, it just happens. If you maintain your normal aquarium practices and do your normal water changes, you should notice a lessening of cloudiness as time goes on. Don't do anything out of the ordinary, such as 50% water changes when you normally would do a 10% water change. This may actually set you back.

If it is the green cloudiness, it is an algal suspension. Again, nothing much can be done about it immediately. If you have plants in your tank, it takes a while before they become established enough to actually start utilizing the nitrogen the algae is feeding on. Light also plays a factor, and reducing the lighting can also help you reduce the population. However the level of nitrogen in your tank is the dominating factor, and getting the cycle completed, and keeping the nitrates low is the only way the suspended algae will disappear.

There is one final possibility, though I think it is not likely in the scenario that you have given us. If you can actually see particles floating in the water, you may have a filtration problem, and the filter media is being bypassed, and thus not removing the particles from the water. This is usually a gradual build-up occurring over a period of time, and not a seemingly overnight event as the above forms of cloudiness seem to be.

Regarding the solution you have for cloudiness, it may work, it may not--I don't know. I've never used it, but either trough patience or sheer laziness, have let the issue resolve itself.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ftuitele
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 3:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Someone please help me with the setup of my new tank.

Hello, I recently purchased a second hand 15 gallon tank for my
goldfish because she is getting to big for the 8 gallon. I set it
up, and the water was beatiful crystal clear. I was told that when
setting up a new environment for my goldfish that I would have to
let the whole thing run for atleast 48 hours. Well today would mark
that 48 hours and I was so excited to transport my fish to its new
tank, however, when I woke up this morning the water that was just 2
days ago, crystal clear, is now all cloudy. I did buy some
bacterial booster, that I was told is good for new setups too, which
I had put in last night before going to bed. The directions read
1ml per gallon H2O so, I had measured 15ml and poured it in. Could
this be the reason for the cloudiness? If so, will it clear up?
Also, is it safe to transport my goldfish into this cloudy water
fish tank?

Also, I have this little liquid bottle that is supposed to help
clear cloudy/merky water. I'm a little hesitant to use this because
it's dark in color(like iodine), and I'm afraid it will just add to
the cloudiness. Does anyone know if these little bottles for
clearing the water work?

One more thing, when I purchased this tank, it had everything but a
missing hood. The light covers most of the tank, but there is still
quite a bit that is open and exposed. Is this safe for the fish?
Could or would she jump out? Can anybody give me some advice on
what to do. Thank you so much for your help! I appreciate the
feedback.









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19213 From: Chris Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Breeding angels is not too hard. Rearing the young is a bit harder.

In summary, see if you can get some slate, or plastic plants with
broad, large leaves, and put them in the tank. Place the slate "end-
on" - ie, sticking up from the gravel and leaning against a wall.

If your blue angel pairs off with another angel, they'll start to
prepare a site on the slate, the plants, the glass, the heater, or
somewhere else - but generally on a vertical surface.

If at all you can afford to do this, move all *other* fish, *out* of
the aquarium and leave the breeding pair in there.

They'll pick the site clean, remove algae, and so on. Eventually
they'll breed there - the female lays eggs and the male comes along
side to fertilize them.

New parents might lay 20 eggs or so. More experienced, and larger
pairs will lay over a hundred.

The eggs will start by being translucent - mostly see-through. If any
are a solid white colour, then they've died and are now being
consumed by fungus.

The parent fish will remove dead eggs so the fungus does not spread
to the new eggs. That is - *experienced* parent fish will do this. If
yours is a first time breeder they might not be so good at it - but
they tend to continue breeding with the same partner.

Another thing that inexperienced parents will do, is suddenly eat the
whole batch of eggs. Don't be alarmed. Leave them alone in the tank,
suppliment their food with live food (eg brine shrimp - strain these
from the salt water first!) and wait for them to start again.

Now... there are two camps about how to hatch the eggs. Some say to
leave it to the parents. Certainly if your fish are doing it right,
that's the safest bet - they are 24/7 carers. However, if you really
want to make sure they hatch and are not eaten, then you can remove
the slate, plant, or whatever, and place it in a new tank. Prepare
the new tank first by using at least 50% water from the parent tank
and running filters, etc for a few days. Don't have any substrate
(gravel) in the fry (young) tank.

Once the eggs hatch, it's all about feeding them. Probably the best
food would be newly hatched brine shrimp. Learning how to hatch these
is itself a learning curve - so if you're keen to breed this angel,
start by trying to hatch brine shrimp now. They're saltwater
critters, so that's another new tank for you, but only a small one
with an airstone.

An alternative is to strain the yolk of a hard boiled egg through
some fabric and to put the resultant yolk-suspension into the tank.

For the eggs, fungus is your main enemy. For the newly hatched fry,
it's both fungus - and making sure they eat. As they get larger, it's
making sure there is enough space for all of them to gain in size.

Breeding angels is in itself a fun activity. Having the chance to
develop a new strain is a golden opportunity! I'd do it for the fun
of it at least, but if you're that way inclined, and play your cards
right, you could develop the breed for a few years - not releasing
any to anyone else - then hit the market with a new breed. *That*
would most likely be very financially rewarding if done right. But as
I said - I'd just hate to see the opportunity go past. If you're not
keen on breeding it, then maybe try and contact an established
breeder and ask them about their interest in buying your fish! :)

Would love to see the breed down under, sometime!

Chris.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I just posted some pictures in the album "130 Fresh". They don't
> capture it quite as well as in person. The trails are very blue
and are
> not so much so in the pictures. Also his body has a very blue/green
> shimmer to it that doesn't show in the pictures.
> At first I thought I was crazy but now seeing these photos and
comparing
> him to the other fish, I see I'm not so nuts.
>
> This fish has paired off with the more compact finned angel. (I
will
> have to move the other veil pretty soon as his fins are showing
signs of
> being nipped.) I know nothing about breeding them but I guess I
could
> try to see if some have this blue hue to them. I bought this one
when
> he was a dime size in the body, and there was no blue showing then.
>
> LM
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Chris
> Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 5:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: A blue angelfish?
>
>
>
> Sounds fantastic!
>
> Could you possibly put some photos in the gallery here?
>
> Have you considered breeding it?
>
> Chris.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > One of my angels has been turning an irredesent blue/teal color
for
> some
> > time. Well I've been away for almost a week and now that I'm back
> he
> > has turned almost completely blue. Especially the long trails
> > underneath, they are very blue.
> > Is there such a thing as this naturally? He was not blue at all
> when
> > purchased. It's really pretty but really odd too.
> > ~Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19214 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/9/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
Hi Leslie, Noticed your first (previous) post on your teal colored
Angel, and just now checked out your 3 photos of him. While photos
often do not show a fish to best advantage, I do see promise in this
fish in breeding it if you feel so dedicated and are inclined to put
the time and effort (and tank space) into it. Depending on their
locations, some wild caught Angels may exhibit a cast in this color
range although its seldom seen. Sometimes this characteristic may
get passed down its genetic line several generations away. Luckily,
such appears to be the case with your fish.

If you are willing to work with this fish, I'd be glad to help guide
you along the way as you progress. Better (and sooner) results in
obtaining a pure strain of this colored fish would be had if its mate
were of the same original spawn (being its sister). Barring that
scenario, you may need to rear this fish's progeny up to breeding
size and again breed this new generation to each other with the
possibility of obtaining 25% of this coloration being exhibited in
their following generation, depending on your luck of picking out the
ones carrying this gene, unless some of it is showing; it very well
may not show in the very next generation, but will show in this
succeeding generation.

Best results after breeding this teal fish and his mate will be had
after raising their fry again to maturity and breeding several of his
daughters back to him. In this way its possible that you may obtain
up to a 50% ratio of this color in the proceeding generation, which
may be darker and/or appear earlier (as in juveniles). As you can
see, raising these proceeding generations up to maturity to be bred
again to develop and "fix" this trait can take time and tank space,
but if you're willing to do it, help is only a keystroke away!

Maturity for these fish means 9 months on average, occassionally
being as short as somewhat over 7 months. I find it most enjoyable
playing around with genetics in this species as the genepool is
vast. I've developed my own strain of Koi Angels from scratch and am
presently working on "fixing" my strain of green marbles which show
nothing but green in place of the silver in between the black
markings on this strain. Don't be disuaded by the work you may have
to put in; it can be rewarding. It is doubtful, but possible to see
results in the very next generation, depending upon the female's
background, but it would still be needed to line breed any results to
obtain a fixed strain, before outbreeding it. Lots of fun to look
forward to. Let us know your intent. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I just posted some pictures in the album "130 Fresh". They don't
> capture it quite as well as in person. The trails are very blue
and are
> not so much so in the pictures. Also his body has a very blue/green
> shimmer to it that doesn't show in the pictures.
> At first I thought I was crazy but now seeing these photos and
comparing
> him to the other fish, I see I'm not so nuts.
>
> This fish has paired off with the more compact finned angel. (I
will
> have to move the other veil pretty soon as his fins are showing
signs of
> being nipped.) I know nothing about breeding them but I guess I
could
> try to see if some have this blue hue to them. I bought this one
when
> he was a dime size in the body, and there was no blue showing then.
>
> LM
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Chris
> Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 5:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: A blue angelfish?
>
>
>
> Sounds fantastic!
>
> Could you possibly put some photos in the gallery here?
>
> Have you considered breeding it?
>
> Chris.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > One of my angels has been turning an irredesent blue/teal color
for
> some
> > time. Well I've been away for almost a week and now that I'm back
> he
> > has turned almost completely blue. Especially the long trails
> > underneath, they are very blue.
> > Is there such a thing as this naturally? He was not blue at all
> when
> > purchased. It's really pretty but really odd too.
> > ~Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19215 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/10/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish-Some "?"s
Thank you Steve, Donna, Shannon and Saphire for your help. I love
the idea of getting printed info from the web - you'd think as a
teacher she'd have already done her homewk on this. I also like the
idea of bringing this up in a room where other teachers are present
so that there's no miscommunication. It's also important for her to
know the eventual size tank she'll need, but most important, this
current Betta-size thing is nothing more than a slow death, and I
totally agree that it's setting a terrible example in a school that
tends to be meticulous in everything else it does.

I can't steal the fish though believe me, it's occurred to me. This
is a very small private school, and they'd know immediately who did
it. Plus I just started there.

Some questions:

1.) Went to Petland Kahala yesterday - amazing how dumb some clerks
can be - I asked for head of the aquarium dept who knew so much
more. Looked at a cute baby goldfish. If she lets me get a better
environment, should I get him a buddy, or do they prefer to be alone?

2.) The fish is about 2" long - what's the smallest thing I can get,
and are round bowls still used?

3.) How long do I quarantine a new baby goldfish?

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Saphire Draco <chaos_slave@...>
wrote:
>
> The fish will die eventually from the abuse, if you
> can get into her class after she goes home, sneak the
> fish out in a baggy and take it home. If she asks tell
> her the fish died, because it will soon in those
> conditions. or point it out to the head of the school
> and tell him she isn't being a good example to her
> students because she is not taking responsable care of
> the fish.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19216 From: Chris Date: 10/10/2006
Subject: Re: A blue angelfish?
I'd say you just found the right person to help you! :D

Jump on the opportunity! It'll be fun! :)

Chris.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Leslie, Noticed your first (previous) post on your teal colored
> Angel, and just now checked out your 3 photos of him. While photos
> often do not show a fish to best advantage, I do see promise in this
> fish in breeding it if you feel so dedicated and are inclined to put
> the time and effort (and tank space) into it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19217 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/10/2006
Subject: Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish-Some "?"s
Cinde,

Your questions:

1. It will not make much of a difference either way. However, if there
is another goldfish in the tank, the end tank will need to be sized for
both of them, a 55 or 60 gallon tank.

2. Obviously, they still are, judging from posts here and on other
lists. However, I'd probably give him a 10 to start out in.

3. The quarantine period would be the same as for any other fish, 14-21
days of continuous good health of the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 2:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm fish-Some
"?"s

Thank you Steve, Donna, Shannon and Saphire for your help. I love
the idea of getting printed info from the web - you'd think as a
teacher she'd have already done her homewk on this. I also like the
idea of bringing this up in a room where other teachers are present
so that there's no miscommunication. It's also important for her to
know the eventual size tank she'll need, but most important, this
current Betta-size thing is nothing more than a slow death, and I
totally agree that it's setting a terrible example in a school that
tends to be meticulous in everything else it does.

I can't steal the fish though believe me, it's occurred to me. This
is a very small private school, and they'd know immediately who did
it. Plus I just started there.

Some questions:

1.) Went to Petland Kahala yesterday - amazing how dumb some clerks
can be - I asked for head of the aquarium dept who knew so much
more. Looked at a cute baby goldfish. If she lets me get a better
environment, should I get him a buddy, or do they prefer to be alone?

2.) The fish is about 2" long - what's the smallest thing I can get,
and are round bowls still used?

3.) How long do I quarantine a new baby goldfish?

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Saphire Draco <chaos_slave@...>
wrote:
>
> The fish will die eventually from the abuse, if you
> can get into her class after she goes home, sneak the
> fish out in a baggy and take it home. If she asks tell
> her the fish died, because it will soon in those
> conditions. or point it out to the head of the school
> and tell him she isn't being a good example to her
> students because she is not taking responsable care of
> the fish.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19218 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 10/10/2006
Subject: self priming pump suggestions
Hi.

I'm new to the group. Raising IFGA show quality guppies. I want to do water
changes by siphoning water over to a sink on the other side of my basement.
A PYTHON is not great since my water pressure is not great.

Anyone use or know about small self priming pumps.

I figure I can run a line to it and to the sink and pump the water up into
the sink.

Any help appreciated

Michael M>>>>>>>>>>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19219 From: valorie erickson Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: intro.
Hi Everyone! My name is Val & I am new to group. My sons Dustin,Brandon
and myself got into goldfish about 3 yrs ago.We are not pros. by any
means. However we enjoy them very much. I've really enjoyed looking at
other members photos. I will be putting albumn on here soon. Have a
good day!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19220 From: Linda Hodgens Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Re: self priming pump suggestions
I don't know about that pump. I thought I'd say I use those cheap water jet pumps though, to move my water around. Just attach hoses, plug it in, for both fresh and salt.
Linda

>
> From: Michael Marcotrigiano <michael@...>
> Date: 2006/10/10 Tue PM 08:47:06 EDT
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] self priming pump suggestions
>
> Hi.
>
> I'm new to the group. Raising IFGA show quality guppies. I want to do water
> changes by siphoning water over to a sink on the other side of my basement.
> A PYTHON is not great since my water pressure is not great.
>
> Anyone use or know about small self priming pumps.
>
> I figure I can run a line to it and to the sink and pump the water up into
> the sink.
>
> Any help appreciated
>
> Michael M>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19221 From: J Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Betta Question
Hey guys... a quick question for you...

I've got a male betta here at my desk. Lets see.. I got him I think
spring semester last year, so he'd be about half a year old now (plus
however old he was before I got him)...

I had him from like mid-aug till last weekend in a gallon sized cookie
jar. Then I recently transplanted him to a 2.5 gallon tank so he'd
have a lil more room to swim around (the cooky jar looked a lil too
small for him).

Everything seems to be going well for him, he's building a new nest
and all (so fun watching him make it)... but he seems to be wanting
to bury himself in the rocks (same as from the cooky jar) and I was
just wondering if this is normal.

Next time I make it to walmart, I'm going to grab a coral reef thing
for him to swim in I realised I forgot to have the 'rents bring that
up when they brought the tank up... But every once in awhile when I
look up at the tank, he's trying to get his head down under the rocks.
He doesnt do it super often, but I was just wondering if it might be
a sign for something, or if he's just checking the place out or...
Cause I dont recall noticing him doing that in the cooky jar....

Thanks for any help you guys can provide.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19222 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Depends on what you mean by trying to bury himself in the rocks. Do
you mean he's scraping his body on the gravel? OR trying to worm his
way underneath something? Many bettas love to hide underneath a rock
or plants at the bottom of the tank to sleep. My copper/gold halfmoon
male loves to do that.

If you mean rubbing himself along the bottom of the tank consistently,
it's likely parasites. THey have to scratch their itchies somehow, not
having fingers to do the job. So they rub along rocks. Best to get
rid of them.

If he's just nosing around the gravel, maybe it's because he likes to
scavenge. My mustard gas male likes sinking shrimp pellets and
snails. Loves to nose them up from the bottom of the tank and eat them.

And he was probably between 3-6 months old when you bought him. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19223 From: deborahgd14 Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Angels
Love the picture of the angels on the group. Whose are they? they
are beautiful. Deborah D
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19225 From: duretteg Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Buying on-line
Where can I purchase fish on-line that's reasonable and reliable? glenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19226 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Rather than the coral reef thingy, why not get some java moss or java
fern to grow in and around the rocks for him to dig into. He may just be
scrounging for food.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of J
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 11:03 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Betta Question

Hey guys... a quick question for you...

I've got a male betta here at my desk. Lets see.. I got him I think
spring semester last year, so he'd be about half a year old now (plus
however old he was before I got him)...

I had him from like mid-aug till last weekend in a gallon sized cookie
jar. Then I recently transplanted him to a 2.5 gallon tank so he'd
have a lil more room to swim around (the cooky jar looked a lil too
small for him).

Everything seems to be going well for him, he's building a new nest
and all (so fun watching him make it)... but he seems to be wanting
to bury himself in the rocks (same as from the cooky jar) and I was
just wondering if this is normal.

Next time I make it to walmart, I'm going to grab a coral reef thing
for him to swim in I realised I forgot to have the 'rents bring that
up when they brought the tank up... But every once in awhile when I
look up at the tank, he's trying to get his head down under the rocks.
He doesnt do it super often, but I was just wondering if it might be
a sign for something, or if he's just checking the place out or...
Cause I dont recall noticing him doing that in the cooky jar....

Thanks for any help you guys can provide.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19227 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
What kind of fish are you interested in?


-----Original Message-----
From: duretteg@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 6:06 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Buying on-line


Where can I purchase fish on-line that's reasonable and reliable? glenn



________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19228 From: AquaticLife Date: 10/11/2006
Subject: Re: Angels
Hi, I believe they are Leslie's, more pics in the album " 130
Fresh " in this groups photos

"... Message #19194

One of my angels has been turning an irredesent blue/teal color for
some time. Well I've been away for almost a week and now that I'm
back he has turned almost completely blue. Especially the long trails
underneath, they are very blue.
Is there such a thing as this naturally? He was not blue at all when
purchased. It's really pretty but really odd too.
~Leslie ..."


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deborahgd14" <deborahgd14@...>
wrote:
>
> Love the picture of the angels on the group. Whose are they?
they
> are beautiful. Deborah D
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19229 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
http://www.thefishwizards.com is quite reliable, and the fish are of
good quality, however, they cater to special interests, and the fish you
would want may not be available there.

You can try http://www.aquabid.com, but this is an auction site, and you
take your chances with those who offer the fish. I've not purchased fish
there, but I have purchased books, and those I have dealt with have been
reliable. Your mileage may vary.

There are several specialty sites selling fish who are reliable, but
whether they are worth your time depends upon your interest.

Several of the mail order sites also offer fish, along with other
catalogue items, but I've never purchased fish from them.

If your interest coincides with one of the specialty groups, i.e.
killies, bettas, anabantoids, cichlids, etc., becoming a member of such
a group opens opportunities to get fish from other members and they are
reliable for the most part. Not being so generally leads to a fairly
rapid dismissal from advertising in the organization and an exit from
the organization.

Keep in mind we are coming into the cold weather season in the northern
hemisphere, so reliable shipping is going to cost you more, or not be
available. If you are looking for specific fish, many LFS's will special
order them for you.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of duretteg
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 9:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Buying on-line

Where can I purchase fish on-line that's reasonable and reliable? glenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19230 From: wendie Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
I do all my online buying from Mark at Anubias Designs . You can join his
Yahoo group and lurk to see what he's offering. I have been buying from him
for several months and have not been disappointed. I tried about 4 places
for Kuhli loaches which are really difficult to successfully ship and keep
for the first couple of weeks. I received dead, dying, and sick kuhlis from
everyone but him. He wouldn't sell one batch but then received another
batch which he commented on as very nice. I bought 10 of the little guys
this spring and they are all alive and growing like weeds. I have some
lovely green neons, several sets of plecos for breeding, etc. I've been
nothing but happy with his fish. All arrive healthy, and active. He'll
work with you and if there is anything you especially want he'll try and
pick it up for you. Nothing in the common line that you'll find in fish
stores though. Just the harder to get types.

Wendie
,_._,___


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19231 From: deborahgd14 Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Angels
Great Pictures!! I'm partial to the angels but love the clown
loaches, also. Deborah

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "AquaticLife"
<aquaticlifegroup@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, I believe they are Leslie's, more pics in the album " 130
> Fresh " in this groups photos
>
> "... Message #19194
>
> One of my angels has been turning an irredesent blue/teal color
for
> some time. Well I've been away for almost a week and now that I'm
> back he has turned almost completely blue. Especially the long
trails
> underneath, they are very blue.
> Is there such a thing as this naturally? He was not blue at all
when
> purchased. It's really pretty but really odd too.
> ~Leslie ..."
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deborahgd14" <deborahgd14@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Love the picture of the angels on the group. Whose are they?
> they
> > are beautiful. Deborah D
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19232 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
I've had very good results buying bettas from aquabid. Like ebay only
for aquatic items
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19233 From: Rich Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
You can try <LiveAquaria.com> I bought fish from them & they some
times have deals the more you buy the cheaper the price. The fish came
in good shape & still doing good that was 2years ago.
Rich






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "duretteg" <duretteg@...> wrote:
>
> Where can I purchase fish on-line that's reasonable and reliable?
glenn
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19234 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Sexing angels?
Could someone tell me just short of taking the angels , i have out to
dinner, and seeing who picks up the check, how do u tell male from
female on the angel fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19235 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Hexamita
I had a gourmi develope holes in his fins then severe holes on his body.
I treated him w/ clout and parasite gaurd but he quickly got worse and
died. (It was suggested this was a rare disease sometime present in
gouramis that are shipped from I believe Asia.)
I now have an angel from the same tank w/ 2 small holes near his "back"
although they are on his left side, just high near the top.
Could this be hexamita?

I am about to put him into quarentine w/ hex out and para-gaurd. Could
it be bacterial? The places are not red, just white and fleshy looking
and currently very small.

Hexamita?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19236 From: wendie Date: 10/12/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
I've used them several times but the fish arrived with ick.
I lost several but they were good enough to credit me for
them.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Rich
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 3:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [AquaticLife] Re: Buying on-line


You can try <LiveAquaria.com> I bought fish from them & they some
times have deals the more you buy the cheaper the price. The fish came
in good shape & still doing good that was 2years ago.
Rich






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "duretteg" <duretteg@...> wrote:
>
> Where can I purchase fish on-line that's reasonable and reliable?
glenn
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19237 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Sexing angels?
There is no sure way to tell until they are in breeding condition and
the breeding tubes are extended. The male's is thinner while the
female's is thicker.

I've seen a number of methods otherwise, but none of them are reliable.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chicagobears2010
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 8:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Sexing angels?

Could someone tell me just short of taking the angels , i have out to
dinner, and seeing who picks up the check, how do u tell male from
female on the angel fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19238 From: Jannine Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Wendie, what is the name of that yahoo group. I would like to check
it out.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19239 From: wendie Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Jannine,

Try this link.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/anubiasdesign/

It's called anubiasdesign

Wendie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19240 From: Bill Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Kuhli loaches and green neons should be fairly common fish to get in a
store (but they aren't, at least I have kuhli loaches at my store).
If you live in a small town away from a major city, you might not find
a lot of fish choices. So there are some options, not just to pay
double or triple when you include shipping. The first choice is buy
the fish you can locally. Second, put more emphasis on your knowledge
or breeding. Third, decorate your tank better. We all get the bug
for fish, but if 4 stores dont have kuhli loaches....I'd be taking a
big long look at where this hobby is going (and I dont think usmail,
UPS, fedex, or gonna promote shihpping fish, many small time shippers
have been given the runaround lately).
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19241 From: wendie Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
I have to admit that I was in the local store today and praise the lord,
they
let the idiot go that was running it. Apparently I was not the only person
complaining as they brought back the previous manager and increased her
salary!!! I went into the store today, without knowing this, and thought to
myself
gee no sick fish, no dead fish. They really look great. Then I discovered
why!!!
It's like night and day. They don't, however, stock much more than the
common
fish swords, platies, angels, etc. They are dealing with about 40 active
tanks
of fish. In those 40 tanks are 10 tanks of goldfish. They had two discus
which
I don't give much hope for.

Kuhlis have not been in a store anywhere near where I live for almost two
years
now. They either can't get them or they die when received. I have never
seen
green neons in a local store either here or in another larger town where I
used
to live. It's hard to even find regular neons or cardinals in the stores.
If they
do bring in something unusual it's something in a larger size fish than I
have
room for. I did notice that they are starting to bring in more and more of
a variety of
plecos. They can't, however, sex them properly.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 11:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Buying on-line


Kuhli loaches and green neons should be fairly common fish to get in a
store (but they aren't, at least I have kuhli loaches at my store).
If you live in a small town away from a major city, you might not find
a lot of fish choices. So there are some options, not just to pay
double or triple when you include shipping. The first choice is buy
the fish you can locally. Second, put more emphasis on your knowledge
or breeding. Third, decorate your tank better. We all get the bug
for fish, but if 4 stores dont have kuhli loaches....I'd be taking a
big long look at where this hobby is going (and I dont think usmail,
UPS, fedex, or gonna promote shihpping fish, many small time shippers
have been given the runaround lately).






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19242 From: Kevin H. Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Hello
Hello group!

Does anyone in this group own these creatures called Triops? If so,
what specie do you own?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19243 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
try this guy's site.
I do not recall but I think he is a member here.

http://www.mytriops.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: khughes_7@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 13 Oct 2006 1:12 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello




Hello group!

Does anyone in this group own these creatures called Triops? If so,
what specie do you own?



________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19244 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 10/13/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
www.aquabid.com

like ebay, so just look at the reviews the person has gotten and do not buy
from someone with very few sales. I've done 3 purchases so far and the
price and quality of hobby raised fish are excellent.

Also got spawning mops in the BREEDING ACCESSORY link for nearly nothing.
Some good deals.


At 01:06 AM 10/12/2006 +0000, you wrote:

>Where can I purchase fish on-line that's reasonable and reliable? glenn
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19245 From: deborahgd14 Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Try this site. This guy is in one of my other groups. Deborah

Stuart Halliday
http://mytriops.com/


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin H." <khughes_7@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hello group!
>
> Does anyone in this group own these creatures called Triops? If so,
> what specie do you own?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19246 From: jjudy1957 Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
HI There,

I was just thinking as I was reading these posts; have you thought
about joining a local fish club in your area or surrounding area? At
the local fish club I belong to, every month people bring in fish that
they donate to the club to auction at the end of the
meeting/discussion. Also, some of these fish clubs/groups/societies
also have public auctions once or twice yearly, go on group
trips/tours to fish hatcheries, etc. I find that I learn every day
from the members and members also learn from me. Just a thought......
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19247 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
Hi all,

I have had very good luck with buying from http://www.petsolutions.com
and their fish always have arrived alive and well and whats more, they
guarantee them for a week after you receive them with no questions asked
if something goes wrong, they refund right away. I have found many
dealers on line charge allot for postage and in many cases overcharge.
But petsolutions only charges $29.95 (and often has sales and reduced
prices for postage) for overnight shipping no matter how much you buy.
I also believe that if you buy over $249.99 or some such figure, then
postage is free.

Take care all,

Ivan
South Dakota


jjudy1957 wrote:
>
> HI There,
>
> I was just thinking as I was reading these posts; have you thought
> about joining a local fish club in your area or surrounding area? At
> the local fish club I belong to, every month people bring in fish that
> they donate to the club to auction at the end of the
> meeting/discussion. Also, some of these fish clubs/groups/societies
> also have public auctions once or twice yearly, go on group
> trips/tours to fish hatcheries, etc. I find that I learn every day
> from the members and members also learn from me. Just a thought......
>
>
>

--
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19248 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!
Hi Steve

Thanks for all the great help. I made a big mistake in identifying
the teacher who had the fish - I'm new and I get a different
classrms sometimes. The mean teacher wasn't the one w/the fish - it
was my *favorite* teacher. Yesterday I went in and asked her very
nicely if I could, at my own expense, get her a bigger bowl for him,
and she sd she's been trying to get rid of him for a while and I
could have him! Needless to say, I was really relieved - I feel so
bad for him. Too late to go to store after school, so I bought some
goldfish flakes and will go to store today. Assuming 2 feedings/day
are sufficient, as I do my clowns?

Questions:

1) I plan to read up on internet on g'fish care over weekend - I
literally haven't had one since I was a little kid. Meantime, I want
to get him some treats. Do they like Tubifex/Brine? What treats do
they like?

2) When I change him to new environment - haven't decided what yet -
I recall having a *huge* problem w/my clown loach when I did it -
the New Tank Syndrome thing, because I did it all wrong,. Any tips,
like do's/don'ts? Do I use some of the old water? Do I use aquarium
salt? Is it beneficial to put in plants? Anything to reduce the
stress?

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Cinde,
>
> Your questions:
>
> 1. It will not make much of a difference either way. However, if
there
> is another goldfish in the tank, the end tank will need to be
sized for
> both of them, a 55 or 60 gallon tank.
>
> 2. Obviously, they still are, judging from posts here and on other
> lists. However, I'd probably give him a 10 to start out in.
>
> 3. The quarantine period would be the same as for any other fish,
14-21
> days of continuous good health of the fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
> Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 2:45 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm
fish-Some
> "?"s
>
> Thank you Steve, Donna, Shannon and Saphire for your help. I love
> the idea of getting printed info from the web - you'd think as a
> teacher she'd have already done her homewk on this. I also like
the
> idea of bringing this up in a room where other teachers are
present
> so that there's no miscommunication. It's also important for her
to
> know the eventual size tank she'll need, but most important, this
> current Betta-size thing is nothing more than a slow death, and I
> totally agree that it's setting a terrible example in a school
that
> tends to be meticulous in everything else it does.
>
> I can't steal the fish though believe me, it's occurred to me.
This
> is a very small private school, and they'd know immediately who
did
> it. Plus I just started there.
>
> Some questions:
>
> 1.) Went to Petland Kahala yesterday - amazing how dumb some
clerks
> can be - I asked for head of the aquarium dept who knew so much
> more. Looked at a cute baby goldfish. If she lets me get a better
> environment, should I get him a buddy, or do they prefer to be
alone?
>
> 2.) The fish is about 2" long - what's the smallest thing I can
get,
> and are round bowls still used?
>
> 3.) How long do I quarantine a new baby goldfish?
>
> Cinde
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Saphire Draco <chaos_slave@>
> wrote:
> >
> > The fish will die eventually from the abuse, if you
> > can get into her class after she goes home, sneak the
> > fish out in a baggy and take it home. If she asks tell
> > her the fish died, because it will soon in those
> > conditions. or point it out to the head of the school
> > and tell him she isn't being a good example to her
> > students because she is not taking responsable care of
> > the fish.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19249 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!
Cinde,
Glad you got the fish. Now think big on the tank as they get big if it is a
normal goldfish. About foot long when adult, so plan eventually on a large
tank. I buy a lot of used tanks. Just see if the seller will fill it for a
leak test before you buy the tank.

I am sure I will be corrected if I am wrong, but I do not think you are
supposed to give goldfish a high protein diet like woms or brine shrimp. Get some
peas and pinch them out of their shell(?) and put them in the tank. When the
fish finds them it will probably chow down so feed sparingly as they can be
little pigs.

Mike.


In a message dated 10/14/2006 1:36:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bunnycareshi@... writes:
1) I plan to read up on internet on g'fish care over weekend - I
literally haven't had one since I was a little kid. Meantime, I want
to get him some treats. Do they like Tubifex/Brine? What treats do
they like?

2) When I change him to new environment - haven't decided what yet -
I recall having a *huge* problem w/my clown loach when I did it -
the New Tank Syndrome thing, because I did it all wrong,. Any tips,
like do's/don'ts? Do I use some of the old water? Do I use aquarium
salt? Is it beneficial to put in plants? Anything to reduce the
stress?

Cinde


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19250 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!
Well, now you have a goldfish--not exactly the outcome you desired, is
it? <g>

Might was well go out and get yourself a 30 gallon tank to start, as
that is what he will eventually need, along with the filter, hood and
some gravel for the substrate--the goldfish will sift through the
gravel, so make sure it is either too large for him to get in his mouth,
or small enough that he will not "choke" on it. For the latter, a #2 is
pretty good, though it is not real likely your LFS will have it--I
usually need to special order it.

I know you will want to get him out of that bowl as quickly as possible,
but bide your time. You will need to cycle the tank first, and if you
can get the tank cycled prior to moving the fish into it, you both will
be better for it. You can use straight ammonia--not one with detergent
or scents--and add enough to get a reading of 5 ppm on your test kit.
Check each day, and add enough to reach 5 ppm each day until you
consistently read 0 ppm for a several days, until the nitrites read 0
ppm. At this time your nitrites will be spiking, and once they settle
down to 0 ppm, you are ready to add your new addition. I am told that
bio-spira will speed this process, but I have no direct experience with
it. If you can get it--try it.

During this period, do at least daily water changes of 50% in the bowl.
Keep your new fish on the hungry side, feeding only what he will consume
in about a minute. This will help reduce the amount of waste he
produces, and help keep him healthy during the transition period.

When the main tank is ready for him, just move him to the tank and
discard the water.

Goldfish are mainly vegetarians, though they will eat almost everything.
Keep this in mind when buying his main diet, and get food formulated
specifically for goldfish that have a high vegetable content. Feed any
meaty foods sparingly.

If you new tank looks pretty bare, and it will, you may want to add some
plants to it. Keep in mind the veggie diet of the fish, and know that
you may need to do some experimentation to find the plants he will not
destroy, and you should be OK. Also bear in mind the substrate digging
habit of the fish, and know that you will really need to be creative
when planting, and you and he should get along fine.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 4:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!

Hi Steve

Thanks for all the great help. I made a big mistake in identifying
the teacher who had the fish - I'm new and I get a different
classrms sometimes. The mean teacher wasn't the one w/the fish - it
was my *favorite* teacher. Yesterday I went in and asked her very
nicely if I could, at my own expense, get her a bigger bowl for him,
and she sd she's been trying to get rid of him for a while and I
could have him! Needless to say, I was really relieved - I feel so
bad for him. Too late to go to store after school, so I bought some
goldfish flakes and will go to store today. Assuming 2 feedings/day
are sufficient, as I do my clowns?

Questions:

1) I plan to read up on internet on g'fish care over weekend - I
literally haven't had one since I was a little kid. Meantime, I want
to get him some treats. Do they like Tubifex/Brine? What treats do
they like?

2) When I change him to new environment - haven't decided what yet -
I recall having a *huge* problem w/my clown loach when I did it -
the New Tank Syndrome thing, because I did it all wrong,. Any tips,
like do's/don'ts? Do I use some of the old water? Do I use aquarium
salt? Is it beneficial to put in plants? Anything to reduce the
stress?

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Cinde,
>
> Your questions:
>
> 1. It will not make much of a difference either way. However, if
there
> is another goldfish in the tank, the end tank will need to be
sized for
> both of them, a 55 or 60 gallon tank.
>
> 2. Obviously, they still are, judging from posts here and on other
> lists. However, I'd probably give him a 10 to start out in.
>
> 3. The quarantine period would be the same as for any other fish,
14-21
> days of continuous good health of the fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
> Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 2:45 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm
fish-Some
> "?"s
>
> Thank you Steve, Donna, Shannon and Saphire for your help. I love
> the idea of getting printed info from the web - you'd think as a
> teacher she'd have already done her homewk on this. I also like
the
> idea of bringing this up in a room where other teachers are
present
> so that there's no miscommunication. It's also important for her
to
> know the eventual size tank she'll need, but most important, this
> current Betta-size thing is nothing more than a slow death, and I
> totally agree that it's setting a terrible example in a school
that
> tends to be meticulous in everything else it does.
>
> I can't steal the fish though believe me, it's occurred to me.
This
> is a very small private school, and they'd know immediately who
did
> it. Plus I just started there.
>
> Some questions:
>
> 1.) Went to Petland Kahala yesterday - amazing how dumb some
clerks
> can be - I asked for head of the aquarium dept who knew so much
> more. Looked at a cute baby goldfish. If she lets me get a better
> environment, should I get him a buddy, or do they prefer to be
alone?
>
> 2.) The fish is about 2" long - what's the smallest thing I can
get,
> and are round bowls still used?
>
> 3.) How long do I quarantine a new baby goldfish?
>
> Cinde
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Saphire Draco <chaos_slave@>
> wrote:
> >
> > The fish will die eventually from the abuse, if you
> > can get into her class after she goes home, sneak the
> > fish out in a baggy and take it home. If she asks tell
> > her the fish died, because it will soon in those
> > conditions. or point it out to the head of the school
> > and tell him she isn't being a good example to her
> > students because she is not taking responsable care of
> > the fish.
> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19251 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Goldfish safe plants (was - Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!)
Steve,

Do you have any suggestions for plants that goldfish will not eat?

A guy at work has goldfish and wants plants. I gave him a baggy of java moss but told him they might eat it.

Mike

=======================================
If you new tank looks pretty bare, and it will, you may want to add some plants to it. Keep in mind the veggie diet of the fish, and know that you may need to do some experimentation to find the plants he will not destroy, and you should be OK. Also bear in mind the substrate digging habit of the fish, and know that you will really need to be creative when planting, and you and he should get along fine.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19252 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top?
Thanks again, Steve (& Mike)

I may not be able to start out w/the whole shebang due to to
finances - still working to get a nicer set-up for another tank, and
figuring he's lasted this long, I may only be able to do a 10 gal
for now, then transition again in a few wks.

Anyway, we'll see. Again, not knowing g'fish, is it normal for them
to spend majority of time breathing at the top? Is he gasping for
air? My clowns never od that.

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Well, now you have a goldfish--not exactly the outcome you
desired, is
> it? <g>
>
> Might was well go out and get yourself a 30 gallon tank to start,
as
> that is what he will eventually need, along with the filter, hood
and
> some gravel for the substrate--the goldfish will sift through the
> gravel, so make sure it is either too large for him to get in his
mouth,
> or small enough that he will not "choke" on it. For the latter, a
#2 is
> pretty good, though it is not real likely your LFS will have it--I
> usually need to special order it.
>
> I know you will want to get him out of that bowl as quickly as
possible,
> but bide your time. You will need to cycle the tank first, and if
you
> can get the tank cycled prior to moving the fish into it, you both
will
> be better for it. You can use straight ammonia--not one with
detergent
> or scents--and add enough to get a reading of 5 ppm on your test
kit.
> Check each day, and add enough to reach 5 ppm each day until you
> consistently read 0 ppm for a several days, until the nitrites
read 0
> ppm. At this time your nitrites will be spiking, and once they
settle
> down to 0 ppm, you are ready to add your new addition. I am told
that
> bio-spira will speed this process, but I have no direct experience
with
> it. If you can get it--try it.
>
> During this period, do at least daily water changes of 50% in the
bowl.
> Keep your new fish on the hungry side, feeding only what he will
consume
> in about a minute. This will help reduce the amount of waste he
> produces, and help keep him healthy during the transition period.
>
> When the main tank is ready for him, just move him to the tank and
> discard the water.
>
> Goldfish are mainly vegetarians, though they will eat almost
everything.
> Keep this in mind when buying his main diet, and get food
formulated
> specifically for goldfish that have a high vegetable content. Feed
any
> meaty foods sparingly.
>
> If you new tank looks pretty bare, and it will, you may want to
add some
> plants to it. Keep in mind the veggie diet of the fish, and know
that
> you may need to do some experimentation to find the plants he will
not
> destroy, and you should be OK. Also bear in mind the substrate
digging
> habit of the fish, and know that you will really need to be
creative
> when planting, and you and he should get along fine.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
> Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 4:35 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!
>
> Hi Steve
>
> Thanks for all the great help. I made a big mistake in identifying
> the teacher who had the fish - I'm new and I get a different
> classrms sometimes. The mean teacher wasn't the one w/the fish -
it
> was my *favorite* teacher. Yesterday I went in and asked her very
> nicely if I could, at my own expense, get her a bigger bowl for
him,
> and she sd she's been trying to get rid of him for a while and I
> could have him! Needless to say, I was really relieved - I feel so
> bad for him. Too late to go to store after school, so I bought
some
> goldfish flakes and will go to store today. Assuming 2
feedings/day
> are sufficient, as I do my clowns?
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) I plan to read up on internet on g'fish care over weekend - I
> literally haven't had one since I was a little kid. Meantime, I
want
> to get him some treats. Do they like Tubifex/Brine? What treats do
> they like?
>
> 2) When I change him to new environment - haven't decided what
yet -
> I recall having a *huge* problem w/my clown loach when I did it -
> the New Tank Syndrome thing, because I did it all wrong,. Any
tips,
> like do's/don'ts? Do I use some of the old water? Do I use
aquarium
> salt? Is it beneficial to put in plants? Anything to reduce the
> stress?
>
> Cinde
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Cinde,
> >
> > Your questions:
> >
> > 1. It will not make much of a difference either way. However, if
> there
> > is another goldfish in the tank, the end tank will need to be
> sized for
> > both of them, a 55 or 60 gallon tank.
> >
> > 2. Obviously, they still are, judging from posts here and on
other
> > lists. However, I'd probably give him a 10 to start out in.
> >
> > 3. The quarantine period would be the same as for any other
fish,
> 14-21
> > days of continuous good health of the fish.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 2:45 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm
> fish-Some
> > "?"s
> >
> > Thank you Steve, Donna, Shannon and Saphire for your help. I
love
> > the idea of getting printed info from the web - you'd think as a
> > teacher she'd have already done her homewk on this. I also like
> the
> > idea of bringing this up in a room where other teachers are
> present
> > so that there's no miscommunication. It's also important for her
> to
> > know the eventual size tank she'll need, but most important,
this
> > current Betta-size thing is nothing more than a slow death, and
I
> > totally agree that it's setting a terrible example in a school
> that
> > tends to be meticulous in everything else it does.
> >
> > I can't steal the fish though believe me, it's occurred to me.
> This
> > is a very small private school, and they'd know immediately who
> did
> > it. Plus I just started there.
> >
> > Some questions:
> >
> > 1.) Went to Petland Kahala yesterday - amazing how dumb some
> clerks
> > can be - I asked for head of the aquarium dept who knew so much
> > more. Looked at a cute baby goldfish. If she lets me get a
better
> > environment, should I get him a buddy, or do they prefer to be
> alone?
> >
> > 2.) The fish is about 2" long - what's the smallest thing I can
> get,
> > and are round bowls still used?
> >
> > 3.) How long do I quarantine a new baby goldfish?
> >
> > Cinde
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Saphire Draco <chaos_slave@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > The fish will die eventually from the abuse, if you
> > > can get into her class after she goes home, sneak the
> > > fish out in a baggy and take it home. If she asks tell
> > > her the fish died, because it will soon in those
> > > conditions. or point it out to the head of the school
> > > and tell him she isn't being a good example to her
> > > students because she is not taking responsable care of
> > > the fish.
> > >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19253 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish safe plants (was - Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me
Different fish seem to have different tastes. Try plants that have thick parts and/or a waxy like appearance for your best chance of success. Java fern might be a good one, as well as the various anubias that can take the lower temperatures. Some saggitaria will hold up well as does some vallisneria. A common plant for goldfish tanks is anacharis--I think it is more commonly referred to as elodea these days--if it gets established before the fish go after it. The anacharis needs a cooler water temperature and does poorly above 70 or so.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 5:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Goldfish safe plants (was - Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!)

Steve,

Do you have any suggestions for plants that goldfish will not eat?

A guy at work has goldfish and wants plants. I gave him a baggy of java moss but told him they might eat it.

Mike

=======================================
If you new tank looks pretty bare, and it will, you may want to add some plants to it. Keep in mind the veggie diet of the fish, and know that you may need to do some experimentation to find the plants he will not destroy, and you should be OK. Also bear in mind the substrate digging habit of the fish, and know that you will really need to be creative when planting, and you and he should get along fine.

\\Steve//



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19254 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/14/2006
Subject: Re: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top?
No, it is not normal for them to be as the surface like that. They may do it from time to time, but if it is pretty constant, then he is in trouble with a lack of available oxygen. Do a quick 50% water change and get an airstone, at minimum, in there for him. If the water temperature is much above 70 or so, see if you can get it cooler, though this may not be a viable solution if the room temperature is warmer.

You may need to short circuit the plans for cycling the tank with a fishless cycle to get him what he needs.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 7:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top?

Thanks again, Steve (& Mike)

I may not be able to start out w/the whole shebang due to to
finances - still working to get a nicer set-up for another tank, and
figuring he's lasted this long, I may only be able to do a 10 gal
for now, then transition again in a few wks.

Anyway, we'll see. Again, not knowing g'fish, is it normal for them
to spend majority of time breathing at the top? Is he gasping for
air? My clowns never od that.

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Well, now you have a goldfish--not exactly the outcome you
desired, is
> it? <g>
>
> Might was well go out and get yourself a 30 gallon tank to start,
as
> that is what he will eventually need, along with the filter, hood
and
> some gravel for the substrate--the goldfish will sift through the
> gravel, so make sure it is either too large for him to get in his
mouth,
> or small enough that he will not "choke" on it. For the latter, a
#2 is
> pretty good, though it is not real likely your LFS will have it--I
> usually need to special order it.
>
> I know you will want to get him out of that bowl as quickly as
possible,
> but bide your time. You will need to cycle the tank first, and if
you
> can get the tank cycled prior to moving the fish into it, you both
will
> be better for it. You can use straight ammonia--not one with
detergent
> or scents--and add enough to get a reading of 5 ppm on your test
kit.
> Check each day, and add enough to reach 5 ppm each day until you
> consistently read 0 ppm for a several days, until the nitrites
read 0
> ppm. At this time your nitrites will be spiking, and once they
settle
> down to 0 ppm, you are ready to add your new addition. I am told
that
> bio-spira will speed this process, but I have no direct experience
with
> it. If you can get it--try it.
>
> During this period, do at least daily water changes of 50% in the
bowl.
> Keep your new fish on the hungry side, feeding only what he will
consume
> in about a minute. This will help reduce the amount of waste he
> produces, and help keep him healthy during the transition period.
>
> When the main tank is ready for him, just move him to the tank and
> discard the water.
>
> Goldfish are mainly vegetarians, though they will eat almost
everything.
> Keep this in mind when buying his main diet, and get food
formulated
> specifically for goldfish that have a high vegetable content. Feed
any
> meaty foods sparingly.
>
> If you new tank looks pretty bare, and it will, you may want to
add some
> plants to it. Keep in mind the veggie diet of the fish, and know
that
> you may need to do some experimentation to find the plants he will
not
> destroy, and you should be OK. Also bear in mind the substrate
digging
> habit of the fish, and know that you will really need to be
creative
> when planting, and you and he should get along fine.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
> Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 4:35 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Abused classrm fish-Given to me!
>
> Hi Steve
>
> Thanks for all the great help. I made a big mistake in identifying
> the teacher who had the fish - I'm new and I get a different
> classrms sometimes. The mean teacher wasn't the one w/the fish -
it
> was my *favorite* teacher. Yesterday I went in and asked her very
> nicely if I could, at my own expense, get her a bigger bowl for
him,
> and she sd she's been trying to get rid of him for a while and I
> could have him! Needless to say, I was really relieved - I feel so
> bad for him. Too late to go to store after school, so I bought
some
> goldfish flakes and will go to store today. Assuming 2
feedings/day
> are sufficient, as I do my clowns?
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) I plan to read up on internet on g'fish care over weekend - I
> literally haven't had one since I was a little kid. Meantime, I
want
> to get him some treats. Do they like Tubifex/Brine? What treats do
> they like?
>
> 2) When I change him to new environment - haven't decided what
yet -
> I recall having a *huge* problem w/my clown loach when I did it -
> the New Tank Syndrome thing, because I did it all wrong,. Any
tips,
> like do's/don'ts? Do I use some of the old water? Do I use
aquarium
> salt? Is it beneficial to put in plants? Anything to reduce the
> stress?
>
> Cinde
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Cinde,
> >
> > Your questions:
> >
> > 1. It will not make much of a difference either way. However, if
> there
> > is another goldfish in the tank, the end tank will need to be
> sized for
> > both of them, a 55 or 60 gallon tank.
> >
> > 2. Obviously, they still are, judging from posts here and on
other
> > lists. However, I'd probably give him a 10 to start out in.
> >
> > 3. The quarantine period would be the same as for any other
fish,
> 14-21
> > days of continuous good health of the fish.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 2:45 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Need help w/teacher abusing classrm
> fish-Some
> > "?"s
> >
> > Thank you Steve, Donna, Shannon and Saphire for your help. I
love
> > the idea of getting printed info from the web - you'd think as a
> > teacher she'd have already done her homewk on this. I also like
> the
> > idea of bringing this up in a room where other teachers are
> present
> > so that there's no miscommunication. It's also important for her
> to
> > know the eventual size tank she'll need, but most important,
this
> > current Betta-size thing is nothing more than a slow death, and
I
> > totally agree that it's setting a terrible example in a school
> that
> > tends to be meticulous in everything else it does.
> >
> > I can't steal the fish though believe me, it's occurred to me.
> This
> > is a very small private school, and they'd know immediately who
> did
> > it. Plus I just started there.
> >
> > Some questions:
> >
> > 1.) Went to Petland Kahala yesterday - amazing how dumb some
> clerks
> > can be - I asked for head of the aquarium dept who knew so much
> > more. Looked at a cute baby goldfish. If she lets me get a
better
> > environment, should I get him a buddy, or do they prefer to be
> alone?
> >
> > 2.) The fish is about 2" long - what's the smallest thing I can
> get,
> > and are round bowls still used?
> >
> > 3.) How long do I quarantine a new baby goldfish?
> >
> > Cinde
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Saphire Draco <chaos_slave@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > The fish will die eventually from the abuse, if you
> > > can get into her class after she goes home, sneak the
> > > fish out in a baggy and take it home. If she asks tell
> > > her the fish died, because it will soon in those
> > > conditions. or point it out to the head of the school
> > > and tell him she isn't being a good example to her
> > > students because she is not taking responsable care of
> > > the fish.
> > >
>





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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19255 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top?
Thanks, Steve

If you ever decide to write a book on fish I'll buy the first copy,
but I want it autographed.

I *think* what was going on w/"Goldy" earlier today is that he was
not necessarily gasping for air but looking for more food. I'm not
used to the "body language" of goldfish yet and apparently they gape
a lot, whereas the only times my 2 clown loaches open their mouth is
to eat. I'm careful about not overfeeding the g'fish, but I did try
the idea of fresh peas in the pod (removed) and gave him 3 of them,
which he ignored. But I know it's normal for fish to get used to a
new food.

Did a little shopping today just to look around and budget. I found
the little Betta bowl the teacher had the fish in - it was 1/2gal.
I saw something I may wind up getting on a temp basis since it's
cheap and I need to spend the bulk of my "fortune" on getting a
bigger tank for my 2 clown loaches, the larger of which is getting
to be the size of a whale. So I found this clear, plastic storage
box, 15 quarts, looks like a small version of a 10gal tank, and I
may wind up getting that as a temp home for Goldy, just to give him
space til I get the next set-up. I'll decide tomorrow. Meanwhile:

1) I saw a product called Pro-V Decorative Waste Absorbing Crystals
(little rocks) by Penn-Plax. The label says "naturally absorbs
ammonia - great for Betta and g'fish bowls. Can I use those?

2) I was looking at the gravel and it didn't have a number on it,
except for # of pounds, and I was reminded not to get something
small enough that he could eat it. Also, can I use those colored,
smooth marble-like shiny stones, like flat marbles? Don't know what
they're called, but they're very pretty. Is substrate type critical
for g'fish?

I've a few Betta questions too, but will post separately.

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> No, it is not normal for them to be as the surface like that. They
may do it from time to time, but if it is pretty constant, then he
is in trouble with a lack of available oxygen. Do a quick 50% water
change and get an airstone, at minimum, in there for him. If the
water temperature is much above 70 or so, see if you can get it
cooler, though this may not be a viable solution if the room
temperature is warmer.
>
> You may need to short circuit the plans for cycling the tank with
a fishless cycle to get him what he needs.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19256 From: bunnycareshi Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Questions on Bettas
Aloha

I've never had Bettas but wondered about having 2. One
of the things I've never understood is why they are
always in such tiny containers. Don't they need space
to swim like any fish?

Also, if I get one of those side-by-side containers
for 2, will 2 males display since it's a little harder
(though not impossible) to find females here?

I think I already know the answer to this, but I'll
ask anyway: Can I put just 1 Betta in w/my 2 clown
loaches (1 large, 1 growing baby) or will they attack
? (I know I have to quarantine any fish.) And in the
event that I can, does it matter if I put in male or
female? There is only a pleco - maybe 2" - and a snail
in the clown tank, and when I add fish again, I want
small fish.

Anything important I should know about Bettas? I sure
am learning, after just 24 hrs, how important it is to
know how much waste a g'fish produces!

Cinde

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19257 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish safe plants (was - Re: Abused classrm fish-Given t...
Great,
thanks Steve.
Mike

In a message dated 10/14/2006 5:28:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
steve@... writes:
Different fish seem to have different tastes. Try plants that have thick
parts and/or a waxy like appearance for your best chance of success. Java fern
might be a good one, as well as the various anubias that can take the lower
temperatures. Some saggitaria will hold up well as does some vallisneria. A common
plant for goldfish tanks is anacharis--I think it is more commonly referred to
as elodea these days--if it gets established before the fish go after it. The
anacharis needs a cooler water temperature and does poorly above 70 or so.

\\Steve//


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19258 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Angels fins are being nipped
My two veils are having a probelm w/ being fin nipped, BADLY. I suspet
it's one of my rainbows as I have seen him chase them fiercely but I've
not ever caught him nipping. Are some rainbows aggressive? I also just
a lost a cory cat that his fins were nipped down to the nub.
These rainbows are bold blue on the top half of their body and silver on
the bottom.

Othe tank mates are 1 white see through tetra, the 2 rainbows, the 2
angels, and two cory cats.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19259 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Questions on Bettas
Bettas don't require a lot of space as they draw oxygen from the air, so volume and filtration/aeration aren't a huge issue with adequate maintenance. They do, however, like warmth, which is easier to provide in a "normal" tank.
You can put ONE male betta in the tank you describe, OR possibly several females (they are usually not aggressive but can be...with mellow girls and some cover, fine, with nasty girls and a bare tank, no). You really don't want to put a male in with the females as they can get quite mean and are relentless if the females don't want to or aren't ready to breed. They will either kill them or stress them until they weaken and die.
One solution I've found is putting the males in a "betta barracks" which attaches by suction cups to the inside of the tank and contains up to 4 separate slotted, covered compartments for the males. Not pretty but everyone is safe and warm. In the tank I've got going the girls are free and the boys are in the barracks and everyone is doing well so far... (BTW, don't try this with a floating breeding trap, they can jump it!)

Carmen and the pack
Pawzie-tively Precious American Eskimo Rescue
http://www.reskie.com


I've never had Bettas but wondered about having 2. One
of the things I've never understood is why they are
always in such tiny containers. Don't they need space
to swim like any fish?

Also, if I get one of those side-by-side containers
for 2, will 2 males display since it's a little harder
(though not impossible) to find females here?

I think I already know the answer to this, but I'll
ask anyway: Can I put just 1 Betta in w/my 2 clown
loaches (1 large, 1 growing baby) or will they attack
? (I know I have to quarantine any fish.) And in the
event that I can, does it matter if I put in male or
female? There is only a pleco - maybe 2" - and a snail
in the clown tank, and when I add fish again, I want
small fish.

Anything important I should know about Bettas? I sure
am learning, after just 24 hrs, how important it is to
know how much waste a g'fish produces!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19260 From: Pat Jellison Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top? (source for
Hi Cinde,

Sage advice from Steve and all, so you're off to a good start! As
others have said, the fish shouldn't be breathing at the top, so get
started on those water changes...

Since you're on a budget (aren't we all) I just want to share a great
resource for free tanks and other equipment (and other stuff as well).

I can't recall if you've mentioned where you are located, but if you
happen to be in the USA, There's an organization called freecycle in
many US cities -- people give away things to keep them out of
landfills, and you can request things as well and if someone has one
gathering dust, they'll probably give it to you. I just gave a
teacher who posted a request a hermit crab habitat that had been
sitting in my basement, and I've given other excess fish gear too;
and I've seen people offer everything from filters to 55-gallon tanks
and stands. It's really amazing.

If you go to their website you can find whether there's one in your
area. The url is www.freecycle.org

(Disclaimer here: freecycle is an all-volunteer organization -- even
the admins and moderators are volunteers -- and I have no vested
interest in it, other than that I'm an active member and think it's a
marvelous way to keep stuff out of landfills and help each other at
the same time! If anyone wants more info, contact me by email.)

Best of luck with the very lucky goldfish!

Cheers,
PJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19261 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Nipping suspects picture
I added a picture of the suspected rainbow fish. It's under 130 Fresh.

My angels fins are almost shredded. It has to be one of the rainbows
unless it's the angels nipping eachothers fins. Is that a possibility?

I am thinking to add the rainbows, there are two, to the 130 but there
also 2 angels in that tank and I don't want them to get nipped. I have
a 30 gallon but it also has 2 angels. I have an Eclipse 6 that is
about to go up but that seems way too small for them. But they might
just have to deal with it.

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19262 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at top?
Aquarists have utilized all sorts of containers to keep, breed, and
raise fish in. Just keep in mind that water is not a lightweight
substance. A gallon of water will weigh about 8.5 pounds. Any container
you use will need to be able to support this weight and the pressure it
will put on the structure of the container. You certainly do not want a
sudden burst of the container in the middle of the night. As per
Murphy's Law, such disasters will only happen at the most inconvenient
time and when you are least prepared to recover from such a disaster.

The gravel you normally find in the store is #3. No, you usually do not
see the size listed on the bag. At most shops, instead of buying a 50
pound bag to place in your 55 gallon, you need to buy several bags of
much lesser weight to use and reach the 50 pounds you wish to have. You
can use this, but I prefer the smaller #2 for a few reasons. First, as I
mentioned, it is harder for the fish to "choke" on this size gravel.
Also, since it compacts more than the #3, it makes a better substrate
for holding rooted plants. The smaller size also means an increased
surface area for the growth of bacteria if one is using under gravel
filtration. It is also easier for those fish who like to dig in the
substrate to move about for their "constructions" and aquascaping
attempts.

The product you saw in the store is probably a zeolite. As such, it is
good to use in an emergency situation, but not as a permanent method of
controlling ammonia. The more ammonia it removes, the less is available
for culturing the bacteria that establish the cycle for you. There are a
number of products that use this zeolite for the purpose of removing
ammonia. It should have instructions for recharging the material, as it
can be re-used after recharging, though it will eventually lose its
effectiveness. Look for Ultimate sold by Hikari as a water treatment
that will change the ammonia to a non-toxic form and leave it available
for development of the bacteria needed for a natural cycle. This is the
old Amquel, which I learned about the last time I went shopping for it
having depleted my gallon jug of the stuff.

Somebody will need to help me out here, as I am drawing a blank on the
name, but there is a sponge like product that also removes ammonia, and
it becomes discolored as it effectiveness wanes, giving a visual clue
when it is time to change it. Again this would be used only for
emergency, and it is commonly used when shipping fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 3:01 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe at
top?

Thanks, Steve

If you ever decide to write a book on fish I'll buy the first copy,
but I want it autographed.

I *think* what was going on w/"Goldy" earlier today is that he was
not necessarily gasping for air but looking for more food. I'm not
used to the "body language" of goldfish yet and apparently they gape
a lot, whereas the only times my 2 clown loaches open their mouth is
to eat. I'm careful about not overfeeding the g'fish, but I did try
the idea of fresh peas in the pod (removed) and gave him 3 of them,
which he ignored. But I know it's normal for fish to get used to a
new food.

Did a little shopping today just to look around and budget. I found
the little Betta bowl the teacher had the fish in - it was 1/2gal.
I saw something I may wind up getting on a temp basis since it's
cheap and I need to spend the bulk of my "fortune" on getting a
bigger tank for my 2 clown loaches, the larger of which is getting
to be the size of a whale. So I found this clear, plastic storage
box, 15 quarts, looks like a small version of a 10gal tank, and I
may wind up getting that as a temp home for Goldy, just to give him
space til I get the next set-up. I'll decide tomorrow. Meanwhile:

1) I saw a product called Pro-V Decorative Waste Absorbing Crystals
(little rocks) by Penn-Plax. The label says "naturally absorbs
ammonia - great for Betta and g'fish bowls. Can I use those?

2) I was looking at the gravel and it didn't have a number on it,
except for # of pounds, and I was reminded not to get something
small enough that he could eat it. Also, can I use those colored,
smooth marble-like shiny stones, like flat marbles? Don't know what
they're called, but they're very pretty. Is substrate type critical
for g'fish?

I've a few Betta questions too, but will post separately.

Cinde

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> No, it is not normal for them to be as the surface like that. They
may do it from time to time, but if it is pretty constant, then he
is in trouble with a lack of available oxygen. Do a quick 50% water
change and get an airstone, at minimum, in there for him. If the
water temperature is much above 70 or so, see if you can get it
cooler, though this may not be a viable solution if the room
temperature is warmer.
>
> You may need to short circuit the plans for cycling the tank with
a fishless cycle to get him what he needs.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19263 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Questions on Bettas
The form of bettas you see in the stores are not real good swimmers due to the development of their finnage. It is not necessary to keep them in the small bowls they are traditionally found in. You can keep them in tanks, and breeders are often found in small tanks, fry are raised in tanks until they can be sexed, and the males are then moved to smaller containers.

The fish have been raised like this since they are a bit violent toward each other--especially the males, but this violence is conspecific, and they seldom bother other fish. On the other hand, other fish may find the long flowing fins too much of a temptation and nibble at them. The fish, from which the various strains we find today were developed, was/is used for fighting contests, not unlike the cock fights in the southwest of this country. It was the people who raise fish for this purpose that developed the bowl method of raising these fish.

These fish have an organ, known as a labyrinth, that can utilize atmospheric oxygen as a supplement to that removed from the water with the gills. This aids in the keeping of the fish in small containers. Doing so, though, requires a lot of work, with water changes daily, the amount of work increasing with the number of containers.

Keeping two males as you suggest, in a tank with a glass divider will only provide the displays you wish occasionally, once the two fish get used to seeing each other. Usually, the fish are carded, where an opaque material is placed between the bowls or containers, and removed to see the fish display.

Your betta should do well in the scenario you propose, with your clown loaches. They are relatively undemanding fish, though they do need to be kept warm. You should get a good two years of viewing pleasure from the fish before it starts to decline, though it may be around for a few more years after it best has passed.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 3:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions on Bettas

Aloha

I've never had Bettas but wondered about having 2. One
of the things I've never understood is why they are
always in such tiny containers. Don't they need space
to swim like any fish?

Also, if I get one of those side-by-side containers
for 2, will 2 males display since it's a little harder
(though not impossible) to find females here?

I think I already know the answer to this, but I'll
ask anyway: Can I put just 1 Betta in w/my 2 clown
loaches (1 large, 1 growing baby) or will they attack
? (I know I have to quarantine any fish.) And in the
event that I can, does it matter if I put in male or
female? There is only a pleco - maybe 2" - and a snail
in the clown tank, and when I add fish again, I want
small fish.

Anything important I should know about Bettas? I sure
am learning, after just 24 hrs, how important it is to
know how much waste a g'fish produces!

Cinde

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19264 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Angels fins are being nipped
It could either be the tetra or the rainbows. If you've seen the
rainbows chasing, but not the tetra, you are probably correct that it is
the rainbows. The only way to find out would be to separate the rainbows
with a tank divider. If the damage stops, you found the culprits, if
not, let the rainbows out and isolate the tetra in the same manner.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 9:13 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Angels fins are being nipped

My two veils are having a probelm w/ being fin nipped, BADLY. I suspet
it's one of my rainbows as I have seen him chase them fiercely but I've
not ever caught him nipping. Are some rainbows aggressive? I also just
a lost a cory cat that his fins were nipped down to the nub.
These rainbows are bold blue on the top half of their body and silver on
the bottom.

Othe tank mates are 1 white see through tetra, the 2 rainbows, the 2
angels, and two cory cats.

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19265 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Classrm g/fish-freecycle
I'll second the freecycle suggestion. I received a 130 tank w/ stand,
both Oceanic, along w/ perfect hoods, lights, big fish, filters, drift
wood, etc... A friend saw it on Freecycle, replied to the lister and
got it. She didn't need the tank so she gave it to me while she picked
out some fish, driftwood and equipment. VERY COOL!!!! =)
I've also requested a 30 gallon tank and received it along w/ a stand.
It is in perfect shape! It was dirty but it cleaned up fabulously.

Also yard sales are a great outlet. Most people aren't looking to
purchase aquariums yet lots of people sell them.

Have fun!

Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Pat Jellison
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 8:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; bunnycareshi@...
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Classrm g/fish-Normal to constantly breathe
at top? (source for free tanks etc)



Hi Cinde,

Sage advice from Steve and all, so you're off to a good start! As
others have said, the fish shouldn't be breathing at the top, so get
started on those water changes...

Since you're on a budget (aren't we all) I just want to share a great
resource for free tanks and other equipment (and other stuff as well).

I can't recall if you've mentioned where you are located, but if you
happen to be in the USA, There's an organization called freecycle in
many US cities -- people give away things to keep them out of
landfills, and you can request things as well and if someone has one
gathering dust, they'll probably give it to you. I just gave a
teacher who posted a request a hermit crab habitat that had been
sitting in my basement, and I've given other excess fish gear too;
and I've seen people offer everything from filters to 55-gallon tanks
and stands. It's really amazing.

If you go to their website you can find whether there's one in your
area. The url is www.freecycle.org

(Disclaimer here: freecycle is an all-volunteer organization -- even
the admins and moderators are volunteers -- and I have no vested
interest in it, other than that I'm an active member and think it's a
marvelous way to keep stuff out of landfills and help each other at
the same time! If anyone wants more info, contact me by email.)

Best of luck with the very lucky goldfish!

Cheers,
PJ






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19266 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Questions on Bettas
> Aloha
>
> I've never had Bettas but wondered about having 2. One
> of the things I've never understood is why they are
> always in such tiny containers. Don't they need space
> to swim like any fish?

They prefer space to swim, yes. The smallest container I will keep a
betta in is a 1.5 gallon micro aquarium. But they are tough fish,
and can survive in those uncomfortable quarters better than any other
fish around

>
> Also, if I get one of those side-by-side containers
> for 2, will 2 males display since it's a little harder
> (though not impossible) to find females here?

Most males will flare more if they have a mirror or a side by side
companion. Some can be taught to flare upon command by using a
penlight or a finger, and feeding bloodworms as a reward when flares
occur.

>
> I think I already know the answer to this, but I'll
> ask anyway: Can I put just 1 Betta in w/my 2 clown
> loaches (1 large, 1 growing baby) or will they attack
> ? (I know I have to quarantine any fish.) And in the
> event that I can, does it matter if I put in male or
> female? There is only a pleco - maybe 2" - and a snail
> in the clown tank, and when I add fish again, I want
> small fish.

Yes, you can put them in there. I have several bettas, male and
female, in with angelfish, clown loaches, cory catfish, a gourami,
neon tetras, a guppy (holdover from our guppy fiasco) and two
freshwater sharks. They do jsut fine
>
> Anything important I should know about Bettas? I sure
> am learning, after just 24 hrs, how important it is to
> know how much waste a g'fish produces!

Bettas are tough fish, with loads of personality. THey require
places to hide from their tank companions, and tend to love dark
corners around floating plants near the heater, since they prefer
warmth. They can get constipated if there isn't a good amount of
plants in your tank, so try to keep daphnia on hand and feed it to
them occasionally for prevention sake, or soak the bloodworms or
pellets before feeding to help prevent that. They can suffer from
being in a tank with nippy fish, especially if they don't hve a place
to hide from them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19267 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
Hi All:

I've been catching up reading all of the recent postings. Buying
online, hearing from a list member who is lucky enough to live in
Hawaii (Aloha!), and all of the educational subjects make me so happy
to have found this group!

I just got my 55 gallon tank, but am waiting for the two versa hoods
and 24" lights from fosters and smith. A 48" hood and light were
originally ordered and sent, but it doesn't sit right on the top of
the tank, which has that stability bar in the middle. I wish that
someone from F & S had advised me to get the two of each (due to the
bar), but instead, they encouraged the one set. Their reasoning had
to do with the fact that all lighting should be off when cleaning the
tank out of fear of stressing the fish. I often wonder, like at
Petco and other similar stores, whether some of the people on the 800
line know what they're talking about.

Anyway, I will be filling my tank once we clean out the inside of
tank and getting it ready to add fishies, which brings me to my
question: which fishies should I get to start the cycling process and how many?

My goal is to have a community tank that includes pretty, colorful
fish. The neon tetras are nice as are the discus, angels, etc. I
also like the non-fish-looking fish (look more like baby alligators)
that eat the algae at the bottom of tank.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19268 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
PS I meant to say that I have a black background and black fine
gravel for the 55 gallon. Thanks.

Hi All:

I've been catching up reading all of the recent postings. Buying
online, hearing from a list member who is lucky enough to live in
Hawaii (Aloha!), and all of the educational subjects make me so happy
to have found this group!

I just got my 55 gallon tank, but am waiting for the two versa hoods
and 24" lights from fosters and smith. A 48" hood and light were
originally ordered and sent, but it doesn't sit right on the top of
the tank, which has that stability bar in the middle. I wish that
someone from F & S had advised me to get the two of each (due to the
bar), but instead, they encouraged the one set. Their reasoning had
to do with the fact that all lighting should be off when cleaning the
tank out of fear of stressing the fish. I often wonder, like at
Petco and other similar stores, whether some of the people on the 800
line know what they're talking about.

Anyway, I will be filling my tank once we clean out the inside of
tank and getting it ready to add fishies, which brings me to my
question: which fishies should I get to start the cycling process and how many?

My goal is to have a community tank that includes pretty, colorful
fish. The neon tetras are nice as are the discus, angels, etc. I
also like the non-fish-looking fish (look more like baby alligators)
that eat the algae at the bottom of tank.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19269 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: 10 gallon tank
The 10 gallon tank is the one I had to drain and refill after the ich
and salt treatment killed my guppies. I now have two small, hardy
tetras in there cycling it. At some point, I would like to transfer
them to the 55 gallon, utilizing the 10 gallon as either a quarantine
tank or maybe to house a shelly cichlid, which a friend suggested
might be a nice addition.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19270 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
> A 48" hood and light were
> originally ordered and sent, but it doesn't sit right on the top of
> the tank, which has that stability bar in the middle. I wish that
> someone from F & S had advised me to get the two of each (due to
the
> bar), but instead, they encouraged the one set. Their reasoning
had
> to do with the fact that all lighting should be off when cleaning
the
> tank out of fear of stressing the fish. I often wonder, like at
> Petco and other similar stores, whether some of the people on the
800
> line know what they're talking about.

No, often they do not, they are often just reading out of a book, or
spouting memorized lines. If you clean your tank properly, there is
no stress on the fish whatsoever. My fish flock to the siphon tube
because things get caught on it and they get to scavenge. They think
it's fun. And the single light set up is adequate for most tanks,
though more lighting is preferable.

>
> Anyway, I will be filling my tank once we clean out the inside of
> tank and getting it ready to add fishies, which brings me to my
> question: which fishies should I get to start the cycling process
and how many?

You could try using bio spiria, or some other cycling bacteria
additive to speed things along. Bettas, since they have a breathing
labyrinth and can breath air during the nitrogen spike, are an
excellent fish to cycle an aquarium with. Personally, I do a month
long fishless cycle. I put in the substrate (I add a bit of the
bacteria directly to the substrate before covering with gravel), add
the plants, put the bacteria in the water, and then just kick back
and let the plants get established. Then I add the fish, 1-5 at a
time, no more than once a week.
>
> My goal is to have a community tank that includes pretty, colorful
> fish. The neon tetras are nice as are the discus, angels, etc. I
> also like the non-fish-looking fish (look more like baby
alligators)
> that eat the algae at the bottom of tank.
>
I wouldn't combine discus with angelfish. Either or. My tank has
cory catfish (groups of five or more of the same kind, please),
plecostamus (two dwarf), neon, gold, black neon, and green neon
tetras, two angelfish, a dwarf blue gourami (if you get more than one
of these they tend to get aggressive) several bettas (spawn raised
together can usually live together more peaceably than strangers),
two freshwater sharks, and a guppy. IT's a nice dynamic tank with a
lot of activity going on, but not a lot of problems. I also have a
dwarf frog and a mystery snail, and occasionally ghost shrimp, though
they get eaten fast.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19271 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
Ammonia is the best way, as I described in a post earlier this weekend.
You will be able to cycle your tank, and not lose any fish from the
cycling process.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 12:36 PM
To: aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?

Hi All:

I've been catching up reading all of the recent postings. Buying
online, hearing from a list member who is lucky enough to live in
Hawaii (Aloha!), and all of the educational subjects make me so happy
to have found this group!

I just got my 55 gallon tank, but am waiting for the two versa hoods
and 24" lights from fosters and smith. A 48" hood and light were
originally ordered and sent, but it doesn't sit right on the top of
the tank, which has that stability bar in the middle. I wish that
someone from F & S had advised me to get the two of each (due to the
bar), but instead, they encouraged the one set. Their reasoning had
to do with the fact that all lighting should be off when cleaning the
tank out of fear of stressing the fish. I often wonder, like at
Petco and other similar stores, whether some of the people on the 800
line know what they're talking about.

Anyway, I will be filling my tank once we clean out the inside of
tank and getting it ready to add fishies, which brings me to my
question: which fishies should I get to start the cycling process and
how many?

My goal is to have a community tank that includes pretty, colorful
fish. The neon tetras are nice as are the discus, angels, etc. I
also like the non-fish-looking fish (look more like baby alligators)
that eat the algae at the bottom of tank.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19272 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Buying on-line
That is an excellent thought!
I belong to two aquarium societies. One had a meeting last night. I picked
up a 55 gallon black backed acrylic tank with the built in wet dry filter in
back(all used) for $22.00.

I also won the raffle grand prize, a new 29 gallon tank with light.

Both of the groups I belong to meet monthly and have monthly speakers on
different fish related topics as well as monthly auctions. I picked up 6
Christmas Fulu Victorian cichlids for 10 bucks, but have had even better deals than
that in the past. Every month is like christmas ;) Both clubs also go to the
local fish wholesaler and bring in plants as well as a dozen bags or more of
fish.

As you may have picked up on I am hooked on aquarium societies. If there is
one near any of you check it out.

Mike

In a message dated 10/14/2006 9:12:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jjudy1957@... writes:
HI There,

I was just thinking as I was reading these posts; have you thought
about joining a local fish club in your area or surrounding area? At
the local fish club I belong to, every month people bring in fish that
they donate to the club to auction at the end of the
meeting/discussion. Also, some of these fish clubs/groups/societies
also have public auctions once or twice yearly, go on group
trips/tours to fish hatcheries, etc. I find that I learn every day
from the members and members also learn from me. Just a thought......


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19273 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Hope Cinde is OK
I just heard about an earthquake today (7:01 AM Hawaii time or about 1
PM EDT) that occurred on Hawaii Island. Reports vary between 6.3 and 6.8
on the Richter scale, and power is out in many parts of the state (other
islands also). Apparently there is no major damage, but reports are a
bit sketchy at this time.

So, for Cinde, and all our people who are residents of Hawaii, I do hope
you are OK.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19274 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
Great help! Thanks, so much.


At 02:38 PM 10/15/2006, you wrote:


> > A 48" hood and light were
> > originally ordered and sent, but it doesn't sit right on the top of
> > the tank, which has that stability bar in the middle. I wish that
> > someone from F & S had advised me to get the two of each (due to
>the
> > bar), but instead, they encouraged the one set. Their reasoning
>had
> > to do with the fact that all lighting should be off when cleaning
>the
> > tank out of fear of stressing the fish. I often wonder, like at
> > Petco and other similar stores, whether some of the people on the
>800
> > line know what they're talking about.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19275 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Hope Cinde is OK
Aman. My prayers are with Cinde. Check in when you can, Cinde.

At 05:22 PM 10/15/2006, you wrote:

>I just heard about an earthquake today (7:01 AM Hawaii time or about 1
>PM EDT) that occurred on Hawaii Island. Reports vary between 6.3 and 6.8
>on the Richter scale, and power is out in many parts of the state (other
>islands also). Apparently there is no major damage, but reports are a
>bit sketchy at this time.
>
>So, for Cinde, and all our people who are residents of Hawaii, I do hope
>you are OK.
>
>\\Steve//
>


Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19276 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Hexamita
Everytime I have had to treat my fish for bladder disease, bulg eye, or
fungus, I add to the treatment medicated salt in the water. It just helps to kill
of the 'bad' fungus and bacteria present in the water. Then I realized, "OH
my God!! I have about 100 apple snails in there!!"
Well, not one died. So, I believe that adding the salt, helps and gives the
medication a kick.

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19277 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: Hope Cinde is OK
I too wish the people of Hawaii well. It seems from CNN and FOX news
that there is damage and in many parts of the state electric is off or
just coming back on. You cannot access many web sites in Hawaii at this
time. There seems to be no harm to anyone, well not that is reported
anyway and they just said, aftershocks are still being felt.

Lets hope it is over and all can come back to normal for the people of
Hawaii as earthquakes are no fun and create all manner of havoc to those
in it.

Bright blessings to all,

Ivan
South Dakota


Steve Szabo wrote:
>
> I just heard about an earthquake today (7:01 AM Hawaii time or about 1
> PM EDT) that occurred on Hawaii Island. Reports vary between 6.3 and 6.8
> on the Richter scale, and power is out in many parts of the state (other
> islands also). Apparently there is no major damage, but reports are a
> bit sketchy at this time.
>
> So, for Cinde, and all our people who are residents of Hawaii, I do hope
> you are OK.
>
> \\Steve//
>
>

--
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19278 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: 10 gallon tank
How big does this Cichlid get do you know?


----- Original Message ----
From: ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...>
To: aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 12:38:30 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] 10 gallon tank

The 10 gallon tank is the one I had to drain and refill after the ich
and salt treatment killed my guppies. I now have two small, hardy
tetras in there cycling it. At some point, I would like to transfer
them to the 55 gallon, utilizing the 10 gallon as either a quarantine
tank or maybe to house a shelly cichlid, which a friend suggested
might be a nice addition.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. com
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioriti esonline. com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpad a.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19279 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Re: What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?
Well all those fish are nice. Althought they arent really good all together. Neon tetras do great with other tetras, livebearers and smaller fish. Discus is more like a species tank with special requirements and angel fish is a semi aggresive fish that is more for semi aggresive fish like barbs, danios, mallies and rasboras. There are a lot of fish that do like to nip thier fins though becaue they are so long. I would like mine in a spieces tank more. Good luck.


----- Original Message ----
From: ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...>
To: aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 12:36:18 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] What starter fish to cycle new 55 gallon?

Hi All:

I've been catching up reading all of the recent postings. Buying
online, hearing from a list member who is lucky enough to live in
Hawaii (Aloha!), and all of the educational subjects make me so happy
to have found this group!

I just got my 55 gallon tank, but am waiting for the two versa hoods
and 24" lights from fosters and smith. A 48" hood and light were
originally ordered and sent, but it doesn't sit right on the top of
the tank, which has that stability bar in the middle. I wish that
someone from F & S had advised me to get the two of each (due to the
bar), but instead, they encouraged the one set. Their reasoning had
to do with the fact that all lighting should be off when cleaning the
tank out of fear of stressing the fish. I often wonder, like at
Petco and other similar stores, whether some of the people on the 800
line know what they're talking about.

Anyway, I will be filling my tank once we clean out the inside of
tank and getting it ready to add fishies, which brings me to my
question: which fishies should I get to start the cycling process and how many?

My goal is to have a community tank that includes pretty, colorful
fish. The neon tetras are nice as are the discus, angels, etc. I
also like the non-fish-looking fish (look more like baby alligators)
that eat the algae at the bottom of tank.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. com
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioriti esonline. com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpad a.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19280 From: Clubsprint Date: 10/15/2006
Subject: Compatible fish
G'day all
I'm getting a new home for the goldfish that is sharing with my Danios
so I was thinking of adding some Cardinal Tetras with the Danios. Would this
work
or will the Danios eat the Tetras. I have 3 Danios with red fins and 3
striped Danios
(not sure what type any of these are).

Funny story, I was at the Aqarium shop buying food for the Danios (after
finding out here that
they are carnivores -thanks guys) and whilst browsing the tanks I came
across the owner
fussing over the side by side tanks with Neons and Cardinals. He was
swearing to himself
whilst removing some dead Neons from one of the tanks. I asked him what the
difference
was between the two and he pointed out the length of the red flash on their
body.
He commented that I'd be better off with Cardinals as they are hardier (I
didn't mention
mixing them with danios) When I said that he appeared to have them mixed
together
he said "Would you like a job?" and told me that the new part time girl had
not listened
when he told her the difference between them and had put his new delivery of
Cardinals with
his Neons and vice versa. He wasn't very happy.
There was hundreds of these things, hell of a job to separate them.
Mark
Aus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19281 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Elephant nose eating angel fins?
Could it be possible that my elephant nose is the one eating at the
angels fins?
I had thought it to be the rainbows but now that each morning I come in
and the angles fins are less and less there, the elephant nose is
nocturnal and the fin nipping is being done at night.

?

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19282 From: duretteg Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Buying on Line
Thanks to all that offered suggestions. I've looked at some of the
sights and found them helpful. Too bad but I live where there is no
Society close by. Thanks again Glenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19283 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose eating angel fins?
The mouth is set up so it can eat in the gravel and sands. I dont think he is the one.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; Aquariology@...; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 9:45:53 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Elephant nose eating angel fins?

Could it be possible that my elephant nose is the one eating at the
angels fins?
I had thought it to be the rainbows but now that each morning I come in
and the angles fins are less and less there, the elephant nose is
nocturnal and the fin nipping is being done at night.

?

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19284 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Compatible fish
So what size tank is this? Anyways danios can be nippey at times thats the only thing that may keep you from having them together. Its not recommended but ppl have tried and been sucessful. Not that im saying you sould but good luck.


----- Original Message ----
From: Clubsprint <clubsprint@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 12:34:44 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Compatible fish

G'day all
I'm getting a new home for the goldfish that is sharing with my Danios
so I was thinking of adding some Cardinal Tetras with the Danios. Would this
work
or will the Danios eat the Tetras. I have 3 Danios with red fins and 3
striped Danios
(not sure what type any of these are).

Funny story, I was at the Aqarium shop buying food for the Danios (after
finding out here that
they are carnivores -thanks guys) and whilst browsing the tanks I came
across the owner
fussing over the side by side tanks with Neons and Cardinals. He was
swearing to himself
whilst removing some dead Neons from one of the tanks. I asked him what the
difference
was between the two and he pointed out the length of the red flash on their
body.
He commented that I'd be better off with Cardinals as they are hardier (I
didn't mention
mixing them with danios) When I said that he appeared to have them mixed
together
he said "Would you like a job?" and told me that the new part time girl had
not listened
when he told her the difference between them and had put his new delivery of
Cardinals with
his Neons and vice versa. He wasn't very happy.
There was hundreds of these things, hell of a job to separate them.
Mark
Aus






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19285 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Evil Elephant Nose
I think my EN is hormonal or something. It's suddenly very mean and
thinks the whole tank is his and his alone.
I suspected the EN as the culprit that is eating at my angels and now I
am quite certain of it. He has been chasing everyone all over the tank
this afternoon, and he is FAST and mean about it.

This just started since I rearranged some driftwood and he has claimed a
new cave. Could this be the cause of his territorial hellish behavior?
If so, I'm taking it away! Maybe then I can keep him but otherwise he
has to go. I don't know where I would put him either. Each tank has
angels in it.

I bet this is why all my cories are dying. They are being picked off
one by one. Poor things!

~A very annoyed Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19286 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Evil Elephant Nose
I think the thing for you to do is remove the elephant nose from the
tank or he will have the rest of your fish dead. It is quite unusual
for a Mormyrid to be that vicious and I have never seen it before, not
even when I was in the fish business. But, you did move things around
and that seems to have upset the balance of things well at least for the
Elephant Nose. He will continue on his rampage no doubt now that things
have changed as many fish become quite territorial and it seems he has,
so any other fish in his space is a invader, doomed to die.

Best to remove him.

Ivan


Leslie & Dane Moore wrote:
>
> I think my EN is hormonal or something. It's suddenly very mean and
> thinks the whole tank is his and his alone.
> I suspected the EN as the culprit that is eating at my angels and now I
> am quite certain of it. He has been chasing everyone all over the tank
> this afternoon, and he is FAST and mean about it.
>
> This just started since I rearranged some driftwood and he has claimed a
> new cave. Could this be the cause of his territorial hellish behavior?
> If so, I'm taking it away! Maybe then I can keep him but otherwise he
> has to go. I don't know where I would put him either. Each tank has
> angels in it.
>
> I bet this is why all my cories are dying. They are being picked off
> one by one. Poor things!
>
> ~A very annoyed Leslie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

--
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19287 From: Andreas Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Evil Elephant Nose
You might also have a look to see if

1) you have another electric sense fish in there that is somehow setting him
off

2) you have an electricity leak in the tank it could be so low it harms
nothing but makes the elephant nose think there is another electric fish in
there

they only thing a mormoryd really dislikes is another mormoryd...

I also have a hard time believing he can do effective damage to other fish
using his shnozz but i could be wrong about that

Andreas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19288 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose eating angel fins?
Bit unlikely that the elephant nose be doing that as they are fairly timid
fish.



What tetras do you have?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: 16 October 2006 14:46
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; Aquariology@...;
uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Elephant nose eating angel fins?



Could it be possible that my elephant nose is the one eating at the
angels fins?
I had thought it to be the rainbows but now that each morning I come in
and the angles fins are less and less there, the elephant nose is
nocturnal and the fin nipping is being done at night.

?

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19289 From: Leslie Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose eating angel fins?
The tetra is white & clear and has a yellow and black stripe on the
tip of his top fin. He's never hurt anything before, then again none
of these have.

=(
Leslie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nimish Mathur" <nimmat4@...> wrote:
>
> Bit unlikely that the elephant nose be doing that as they are fairly
timid
> fish.
>
>
>
> What tetras do you have?
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
> Sent: 16 October 2006 14:46
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; Aquariology@...;
> uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Elephant nose eating angel fins?
>
>
>
> Could it be possible that my elephant nose is the one eating at the
> angels fins?
> I had thought it to be the rainbows but now that each morning I come in
> and the angles fins are less and less there, the elephant nose is
> nocturnal and the fin nipping is being done at night.
>
> ?
>
> Leslie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19290 From: Clubsprint Date: 10/16/2006
Subject: Re: Compatible fish
Hi Joseph
The tank is a 33 liter.
Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 1:58 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Compatible fish


So what size tank is this? Anyways danios can be nippey at times thats the
only thing that may keep you from having them together. Its not recommended
but ppl have tried and been sucessful. Not that im saying you sould but good
luck.

----- Original Message ----
From: Clubsprint <clubsprint@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 12:34:44 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Compatible fish

G'day all
I'm getting a new home for the goldfish that is sharing with my Danios
so I was thinking of adding some Cardinal Tetras with the Danios. Would this
work
or will the Danios eat the Tetras. I have 3 Danios with red fins and 3
striped Danios
(not sure what type any of these are).

Funny story, I was at the Aqarium shop buying food for the Danios (after
finding out here that
they are carnivores -thanks guys) and whilst browsing the tanks I came
across the owner
fussing over the side by side tanks with Neons and Cardinals. He was
swearing to himself
whilst removing some dead Neons from one of the tanks. I asked him what the
difference
was between the two and he pointed out the length of the red flash on their
body.
He commented that I'd be better off with Cardinals as they are hardier (I
didn't mention
mixing them with danios) When I said that he appeared to have them mixed
together
he said "Would you like a job?" and told me that the new part time girl had
not listened
when he told her the difference between them and had put his new delivery of
Cardinals with
his Neons and vice versa. He wasn't very happy.
There was hundreds of these things, hell of a job to separate them.
Mark
Aus

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19291 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: Evil Elephant Nose
Well they can be territorial even when you take it out hell find a new place. As for bitting i still say hes not since his mouth is not equiped for that.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 4:31:50 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Evil Elephant Nose

I think my EN is hormonal or something. It's suddenly very mean and
thinks the whole tank is his and his alone.
I suspected the EN as the culprit that is eating at my angels and now I
am quite certain of it. He has been chasing everyone all over the tank
this afternoon, and he is FAST and mean about it.

This just started since I rearranged some driftwood and he has claimed a
new cave. Could this be the cause of his territorial hellish behavior?
If so, I'm taking it away! Maybe then I can keep him but otherwise he
has to go. I don't know where I would put him either. Each tank has
angels in it.

I bet this is why all my cories are dying. They are being picked off
one by one. Poor things!

~A very annoyed Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19292 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: Elephant nose eating angel fins?
Have you tested your water lately for pH ammonia, nitrites and nitrates that can also fray the fins.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie <5moores@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 6:04:55 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Elephant nose eating angel fins?

The tetra is white & clear and has a yellow and black stripe on the
tip of his top fin. He's never hurt anything before, then again none
of these have.

=(
Leslie

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Nimish Mathur" <nimmat4@... > wrote:
>
> Bit unlikely that the elephant nose be doing that as they are fairly
timid
> fish.
>
>
>
> What tetras do you have?
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com] On
> Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
> Sent: 16 October 2006 14:46
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com; Aquariology@ ...;
> uniquaria@yahoogrou ps.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Elephant nose eating angel fins?
>
>
>
> Could it be possible that my elephant nose is the one eating at the
> angels fins?
> I had thought it to be the rainbows but now that each morning I come in
> and the angles fins are less and less there, the elephant nose is
> nocturnal and the fin nipping is being done at night.
>
> ?
>
> Leslie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19293 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: Compatible fish
Well that might be too small to try danios are a fast moving fish maybe if it was like a 55 gallon then maybe a big if.


----- Original Message ----
From: Clubsprint <clubsprint@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 9:53:55 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Compatible fish

Hi Joseph
The tank is a 33 liter.
Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 1:58 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Compatible fish

So what size tank is this? Anyways danios can be nippey at times thats the
only thing that may keep you from having them together. Its not recommended
but ppl have tried and been sucessful. Not that im saying you sould but good
luck.

----- Original Message ----
From: Clubsprint <clubsprint@gmail. com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 12:34:44 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Compatible fish

G'day all
I'm getting a new home for the goldfish that is sharing with my Danios
so I was thinking of adding some Cardinal Tetras with the Danios. Would this
work
or will the Danios eat the Tetras. I have 3 Danios with red fins and 3
striped Danios
(not sure what type any of these are).

Funny story, I was at the Aqarium shop buying food for the Danios (after
finding out here that
they are carnivores -thanks guys) and whilst browsing the tanks I came
across the owner
fussing over the side by side tanks with Neons and Cardinals. He was
swearing to himself
whilst removing some dead Neons from one of the tanks. I asked him what the
difference
was between the two and he pointed out the length of the red flash on their
body.
He commented that I'd be better off with Cardinals as they are hardier (I
didn't mention
mixing them with danios) When I said that he appeared to have them mixed
together
he said "Would you like a job?" and told me that the new part time girl had
not listened
when he told her the difference between them and had put his new delivery of
Cardinals with
his Neons and vice versa. He wasn't very happy.
There was hundreds of these things, hell of a job to separate them.
Mark
Aus

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19294 From: J Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Thanks for the reply. Sorry for the delay. It was homecoming weekend
& being in a fraternity I was busy pomping for our float (which won
first - yea)...

As far as burying himself, it was more of the trying to "worm his way
under something"... I'd catch him every once in awhile "pushing"
rocks aside trying to get his mouth down under the gravel.

I'm part of the "fish family" in my fraternity so each semester I take
a little, when they become a brother, I get them a betta as a gift...
One semester I used those glass marble things rather than traditional
gravel & I caught the betta burying himself in there too - he had
actually gotten under the stones & only his tail was exposed at one
time. Other than that one, I havnt noticed any of my bettas trying to
do that so I was just a little worried when I saw this one doing it.

As far as the Java moss idea... I do have some bulbs in the tank,
unfort' they dont seem to be growing very well... Cant recall off
hand what they're called, but they're the same as what I got in my
10gal (which has at the moment 3 fancy tailed guppies & a female
betta)... Next time I get a chance to hit the pet store, I can check
for some other plants for his tank as I would like to get some greens
into it.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Depends on what you mean by trying to bury himself in the rocks. Do
> you mean he's scraping his body on the gravel? OR trying to worm his
> way underneath something? Many bettas love to hide underneath a rock
> or plants at the bottom of the tank to sleep. My copper/gold halfmoon
> male loves to do that.
>
> If you mean rubbing himself along the bottom of the tank consistently,
> it's likely parasites. THey have to scratch their itchies somehow, not
> having fingers to do the job. So they rub along rocks. Best to get
> rid of them.
>
> If he's just nosing around the gravel, maybe it's because he likes to
> scavenge. My mustard gas male likes sinking shrimp pellets and
> snails. Loves to nose them up from the bottom of the tank and eat them.
>
> And he was probably between 3-6 months old when you bought him. :)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19295 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Sounds to me like he just wants a hiding place. Bettas need a place to
escape and feel protected. Might want to put an ornamental something
in there for him to hide.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19296 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: swallowing tank water
UGH!! Yea. This has now happened to me two times. Today being the second. I
am never doing mouth siphoning again. I had bought a siphon tube but, its
weak.
Oh man. I feel so sickened right now from the experience. Its the experience
of it that is making me feel like I am going to heave. No doubt dangerous.
I read you can get "Mad fish disease"lolol
What the hell is that?

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19297 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
LOL well I have never heard of anyone getting sick from it, but I
suppose there is a first time. I do not think I would worry too much
about it. But it is kind of sickening, for it has happened to me too.

Ivan


Morganawolf1@... wrote:
>
> UGH!! Yea. This has now happened to me two times. Today being the
> second. I
> am never doing mouth siphoning again. I had bought a siphon tube but, its
> weak.
> Oh man. I feel so sickened right now from the experience. Its the
> experience
> of it that is making me feel like I am going to heave. No doubt
> dangerous.
> I read you can get "Mad fish disease"lolol
> What the hell is that?
>
> Harvest wishes
> Karen
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

--
AquaticElf@...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19298 From: Rob Renfro Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: ewwwww swallowing tank water
Karen,

I am afraid if you already have more then 2 tanks in your house you have already been infected with the MAD fish disease.

As far as the mouth Siphoning.. just rinse your mouth out beforee kissing anyone lol

My python does a great job and I usually do not have any probelms starting it, except for the tanks sitting on the floor.

Luckily I have power heads in those tanks, which I shoot into the hose helping getting the syphon going. Once the syphon gets going i replace the gravel vaccum part back on the hose.

Lesson learned never place tanks at Ground level, always leave some sort of elevation change it HELPS so so much when doing waterchanges. ( keeping it under water )

Best of luck
Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana



=====================
From: Morganawolf1@...
Date: 2006/10/17 Tue PM 04:34:45 CDT
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] swallowing tank water


UGH!! Yea. This has now happened to me two times. Today being the second. I
am never doing mouth siphoning again. I had bought a siphon tube but, its
weak.
Oh man. I feel so sickened right now from the experience. Its the experience
of it that is making me feel like I am going to heave. No doubt dangerous.
I read you can get "Mad fish disease"lolol
What the hell is that?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board Of Directors
http://ftas.net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19299 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Instead of using your mouth for suction, stick the water sucking end
into the tank and lift it up until the water begins draining into the
tube. Before the water gets all the way down into the tube (about 1/2
way I'd say), lower it back into the tank to fill up the water end again
and it will begin suction on its' own. Make sure it doesn't have enough
time to make an air bubble or it won't work. Also make sure the water
output end is where you want it to drain before you do this! =)

Good luck w/ the mouth washing. I sincerely hope you don't get mad fish
disease. ;)

Leslie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 4:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] swallowing tank water



UGH!! Yea. This has now happened to me two times. Today being the
second. I
am never doing mouth siphoning again. I had bought a siphon tube but,
its
weak.
Oh man. I feel so sickened right now from the experience. Its the
experience
of it that is making me feel like I am going to heave. No doubt
dangerous.
I read you can get "Mad fish disease"lolol
What the hell is that?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19300 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Uh oh Karen,
That's how it started with me and it has spread, now I have over 25 tanks. My wife is actively looking for a 12 step program or deprogrammer or shock treatment to take care of the problem.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Morganawolf1@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 17 Oct 2006 2:34 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] swallowing tank water


UGH!! Yea. This has now happened to me two times. Today being the second. I
am never doing mouth siphoning again. I had bought a siphon tube but, its
weak.
Oh man. I feel so sickened right now from the experience. Its the experience
of it that is making me feel like I am going to heave. No doubt dangerous.
I read you can get "Mad fish disease"lolol
What the hell is that?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19301 From: Donna Ransome Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
There was an article recently, I think Practical Fishkeeper, that humans can
become infected with Salmonella or a Salmonella-like organism by certain
kinds of contact with aquarium items. No more mouth siphoning!!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Aquatic Elf
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 6:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] swallowing tank water



LOL well I have never heard of anyone getting sick from it, but I
suppose there is a first time. I do not think I would worry too much
about it. But it is kind of sickening, for it has happened to me too.

Ivan

Morganawolf1@ <mailto:Morganawolf1%40aol.com> aol.com wrote:
>
> UGH!! Yea. This has now happened to me two times. Today being the
> second. I
> am never doing mouth siphoning again. I had bought a siphon tube but, its
> weak.
> Oh man. I feel so sickened right now from the experience. Its the
> experience
> of it that is making me feel like I am going to heave. No doubt
> dangerous.
> I read you can get "Mad fish disease"lolol
> What the hell is that?
>
> Harvest wishes
> Karen
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

--
AquaticElf@abe. <mailto:AquaticElf%40abe.midco.net> midco.net
http://groups. <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/>
yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19302 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
Hehe...it's never killed me yet, though I do run for a vigorous tooth
brushing and loads of tap water. Honestly, it's probably healthier
than tap water.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19303 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
You can always buy a self priming pump

Search out "Northern Tools and Equipment" on the internet and use their
search page to see "self priming pump":At 05:03 PM 10/17/2006 -0500, you wrote:

>LOL well I have never heard of anyone getting sick from it, but I
>suppose there is a first time. I do not think I would worry too much
>about it. But it is kind of sickening, for it has happened to me too.
>
>Ivan
>
><mailto:Morganawolf1%40aol.com>Morganawolf1@... wrote:
> >
> > UGH!! Yea. This has now happened to me two times. Today being the
> > second. I
> > am never doing mouth siphoning again. I had bought a siphon tube but, its
> > weak.
> > Oh man. I feel so sickened right now from the experience. Its the
> > experience
> > of it that is making me feel like I am going to heave. No doubt
> > dangerous.
> > I read you can get "Mad fish disease"lolol
> > What the hell is that?
> >
> > Harvest wishes
> > Karen
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
>--
><mailto:AquaticElf%40abe.midco.net>AquaticElf@...
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19304 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Fish Cross Impassable Barrier
From Spotlight on Science at the Smithsonian, a newsletter published by
the Smithsonian Institution.

Spotlight on Science at the Smithsonian is a bi-weekly electronic
newsletter about Science at the Smithsonian. It is produced for the
Smithsonian community by the Office of the Under Secretary for Science.
To subscribe to the newsletter or Podcast, visit http://science.si.edu

They cover a wide spectrum of topics, with an occasional fish piece in
there.

---------------------------------------

Fish Cross Impassable Barrier

The Eastern Pacific Barrier (EPB) is 5000 km of deep ocean separating
the eastern and central Pacific. Charles Darwin termed the EPB an
"impassable barrier." Reef fish generally live in shallow coastal
waters. In order to understand whether reef fish can share genetic
connections across the EPB, Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute
(STRI) scientists, Harilaos Lessios and D. Ross Robertson have analyzed
DNA samples from 20 species of reef fish on both sides of the divide.
They found that most of these species maintain recent genetic
connections.

It was previously thought that there was little larval migration from
west-to-east, and no migration from east-to-west. There is no evidence
that major changes in currents or sinking of an underwater platform
would explain these results. If that were the case, several species
would show the same time of separation. These new findings suggest that
larvae indeed move in both directions.

Their findings, reported recently in the Proceedings of the Royal
Society B, confirm close relationships between populations of the same
species across the barrier. This indicates that genes move in both
directions across the barrier. Although this research proves that the
EPB is not truly an impassable barrier, it is still an effective barrier
for most species, which are found only on one side of the barrier.

The Eastern Pacific Barrier (EPB) is 5000 km of deep ocean separating
the eastern and central Pacific. Charles Darwin termed the EPB an
"impassable barrier." Reef fish generally live in shallow coastal
waters. In order to understand whether reef fish can share genetic
connections across the EPB, Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute
(STRI) scientists, Harilaos Lessios and D. Ross Robertson have analyzed
DNA samples from 20 species of reef fish on both sides of the divide.
They found that most of these species maintain recent genetic
connections.

It was previously thought that there was little larval migration from
west-to-east, and no migration from east-to-west. There is no evidence
that major changes in currents or sinking of an underwater platform
would explain these results. If that were the case, several species
would show the same time of separation. These new findings suggest that
larvae indeed move in both directions.

Their findings, reported recently in the Proceedings of the Royal
Society B, confirm close relationships between populations of the same
species across the barrier. This indicates that genes move in both
directions across the barrier. Although this research proves that the
EPB is not truly an impassable barrier, it is still an effective barrier
for most species, which are found only on one side of the barrier.


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19305 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
ROFL! Nothing like the taste of fish waste and algae ;-)

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Tuesday, 17 October 2006 16:35
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] swallowing tank water



UGH!! Yea. This has now happened to me two times. Today being the second. I
am never doing mouth siphoning again. I had bought a siphon tube but, its
weak.
Oh man. I feel so sickened right now from the experience. Its the experience

of it that is making me feel like I am going to heave. No doubt dangerous.
I read you can get "Mad fish disease"lolol
What the hell is that?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19306 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
FDA Consumer magazine
January-February 2004 Issue

“Keeping Pets (and People) Healthy”
By Linda Bren

Mycobacteria
Fish and the water they live in can harbor bacteria
that may cause illness in people. Mycobacterium is one
of the main infectious germ families associated with
fish and aquarium water. A common route of this
infection in humans is through cuts or scrapes on
hands or feet.
People, especially those with compromised immune
systems, should wear rubber gloves when cleaning the
fish tank and wash their hands well afterwards, says
Renate Reimschuessel, V.M.D., Ph.D., director of the
FDA's aquatic research program. "Since these and other
bacteria can be present in fish tanks, it's a good
idea to keep kids from putting their hands in the
tank, or, in the case of toddlers, drinking tank
water," she adds. "The same advice goes for pets--keep
your cats and dogs from drinking potentially
contaminated water--either from a fish tank or a
toilet. Basically, follow good hygiene procedures when
handling aquatic animals or materials from their
habitat."

http://www.fda.gov/fdac/features/2004/104_pets.html

Beware...and good luck with that: YUCK!
Christa

--- Morganawolf1@... wrote:

> UGH!! Yea. This has now happened to me two times.
> Today being the second. I
> am never doing mouth siphoning again. I had bought a
> siphon tube but, its
> weak.
> Oh man. I feel so sickened right now from the
> experience. Its the experience
> of it that is making me feel like I am going to
> heave. No doubt dangerous.
> I read you can get "Mad fish disease"lolol
> What the hell is that?
>
> Harvest wishes
> Karen
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19307 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
lololollo. Well, that's the last time I ever attempt to use mouth siphoning
again. I will get the electric siphon pump, and a longer hose. I took a swig
of straight listerine, gargled it, and spit it out, not rinsing my mouth from
the mouthwash. I was so sick from the experience I actually spit up from it
a few times cause' it was just so disgusting.
Never again.

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19308 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 10/17/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
I put the end in the tank just like you normally would and viggorsly pump it
that creates a suction and it then drains but you have to make sure you don't
get any fish normally they see me coming and run LOL Shannon




Instead of using your mouth for suction, stick the water sucking end
into the tank and lift it up until the water begins draining into the
tube. Before the water gets all the way down into the tube (about 1/2
way I'd say), lower it back into the tank to fill up the water end again
and it will begin suction on its' own. Make sure it doesn't have enough
time to make an air bubble or it won't work. Also make sure the water
output end is where you want it to drain before you do this! =)

Good luck w/ the mouth washing. I sincerely hope you don't get mad fish
disease. ;)

Leslie








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19309 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
I figure it is very similar to swallowing sea water just not as much after
birth and male secretment LOL Shannon




lololollo. Well, that's the last time I ever attempt to use mouth siphoning
again. I will get the electric siphon pump, and a longer hose. I took a swig
of straight listerine, gargled it, and spit it out, not rinsing my mouth
from
the mouthwash. I was so sick from the experience I actually spit up from it
a few times cause' it was just so disgusting.
Never again.

Harvest wishes
Karen








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19310 From: Gaines Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Middle TN Group Buy (great deals on fish)
For anyone who lives in middle Tennesee and is not a member of
NashvilleAquarist.net, I wanted to let you know that we are organizing
a group buy. These are some of the best deals you will ever see
because we are bypassing the middle man and going directly to the
wholesaler.

Please note that nobody is making a profit on this, we are simply
joining together to place a wholesale order and split the cost of
shipping.

For more information, please check out the forum thread here:
http://tinyurl.com/y6m4he.

- Gaines
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19311 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Re: swallowing tank water
If your useing a syphon there is an easy way. Put your them on the small end of the tube. Then full the large syphon part with water. Raise that arm and lower the other arm. The tube will full with water. Then put the large syphon part into the water and make sure all air is out. Then remove your thumb from the other end and that would get the syphon going.


----- Original Message ----
From: Christa Ciglan <cciglan@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 12:01:37 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] swallowing tank water

FDA Consumer magazine
January-February 2004 Issue

�Keeping Pets (and People) Healthy�
By Linda Bren

Mycobacteria
Fish and the water they live in can harbor bacteria
that may cause illness in people. Mycobacterium is one
of the main infectious germ families associated with
fish and aquarium water. A common route of this
infection in humans is through cuts or scrapes on
hands or feet.
People, especially those with compromised immune
systems, should wear rubber gloves when cleaning the
fish tank and wash their hands well afterwards, says
Renate Reimschuessel, V.M.D., Ph.D., director of the
FDA's aquatic research program. "Since these and other
bacteria can be present in fish tanks, it's a good
idea to keep kids from putting their hands in the
tank, or, in the case of toddlers, drinking tank
water," she adds. "The same advice goes for pets--keep
your cats and dogs from drinking potentially
contaminated water--either from a fish tank or a
toilet. Basically, follow good hygiene procedures when
handling aquatic animals or materials from their
habitat."

http://www.fda. gov/fdac/ features/ 2004/104_ pets.html

Beware...and good luck with that: YUCK!
Christa

--- Morganawolf1@ aol.com wrote:

> UGH!! Yea. This has now happened to me two times.
> Today being the second. I
> am never doing mouth siphoning again. I had bought a
> siphon tube but, its
> weak.
> Oh man. I feel so sickened right now from the
> experience. Its the experience
> of it that is making me feel like I am going to
> heave. No doubt dangerous.
> I read you can get "Mad fish disease"lolol
> What the hell is that?
>
> Harvest wishes
> Karen
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. yahoo.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19312 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: BioSpira
How can you tell if BioSpira has gone bad? I received a shipment a
while back and the box it was in warm. The gel pack had broken during
shipment. (It was only taped closed with a peice of masking tape so
it's no surprise that it broke!)
I'm guessing the only way to know is to add it and do the tests the next
day? Do I need to wait for 24 hours before testing it? And what tests
should I do?

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19313 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Planted tank w/ cichlids?
My two blood parrots dig up the gravel and spit it into mounds. They do
this primarily on the far right side a 130 gallon tank so there is
another 80 gallons that they leave untouched.
I'm wanting to turn this into a planted tank but I know they will dig
them up on that side. Is it feasible to place plants in the wooly plant
blocks in that particular area?
The plants will likely have the gravel removed from their base but they
will stay in place for the most part and stay weighted down as well.
The rest of the tank would have the plants rooted into the substrate.

Good idea? Bad idea?

Also, I have 140 watts of light on this tank. Is that enough for low
light plants?

Thanks,
L


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19314 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Re: Planted tank w/ cichlids?
How about using some large marbles or stones to hold down the plants
and just let them dig in the gravel between the planted areas.

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19315 From: wendie Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Re: BioSpira
It's a bit hard. I usually judge by the readings on the second or third day
after using
it. I've found lately that when a batch is bad, the ammonia will be good
but the other
readings bad. You should be able to see a bloom when you put the Bio Spira
into
the tank and it should last for a bit.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 3:02 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] BioSpira


How can you tell if BioSpira has gone bad? I received a shipment a
while back and the box it was in warm. The gel pack had broken during
shipment. (It was only taped closed with a peice of masking tape so
it's no surprise that it broke!)
I'm guessing the only way to know is to add it and do the tests the next
day? Do I need to wait for 24 hours before testing it? And what tests
should I do?

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19316 From: scottboyle9903 Date: 10/18/2006
Subject: Growing Plants with a UGF
I'm determined to find someone who has had success growing plants in their aquarium while
simultaneously running an under gravel filter. I realize that because the under gravel filter
causes disruptions to the plants roots - that these plants will then in turn, not grow. I have
never personally gotten this to work, but my buddy who lives up in Ohio ( I live in Florida)
swears he has been doing it for a long time. Anybody out there with proof that this is
possible. Maybe it is easier than I am making it? Are there supplies that can help? Any help
would be much appreciated!
Scott Boyle
Free Reports @ http://www.aquariumbliss.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19317 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Growing Plants with a UGF
Scott,

There are too many variables here again. When one talks about a planted tank
with a UGF, the first question I ask is what plants is he growing? Stem
plants, Valliseneria, Anubias, Java ferns and Mosses. Etc will really not be
bothered by the UGF if you have atleast 2” of gravel over the filter. They
also don’t usually root up to the extent of clogging the UGF or the UGF
harming their roots as they really feed mostly through leaves. Things like
Echinodorous and Cryptocorenes can be very tricky with a UGF as they are
primarily root feeders. Their co-existance with a standard UGF is a bit
difficult but not impossible. You must have a decent amount of gravel above
the UGF plates and avoid too much flow thru the substrate (Usually a couple
of airstones to replace a powerhead is sufficient enough.

I previously had a lush planted tank with amazon swords and crypts with a
self desined UGF (Made from Circular plastic 1” pipes used in plumbing and
drainage) brought together in a framework with holes drilled on the under
side of the pipes and topped up with gravel. This does work s a UGF but
because it does not have plates all over the tank, you can actually have
heavy root feeders positioned slightly sway from the frame.

Nim





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scottboyle9903
Sent: 19 October 2006 05:55
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Growing Plants with a UGF



I'm determined to find someone who has had success growing plants in their
aquarium while
simultaneously running an under gravel filter. I realize that because the
under gravel filter
causes disruptions to the plants roots - that these plants will then in
turn, not grow. I have
never personally gotten this to work, but my buddy who lives up in Ohio ( I
live in Florida)
swears he has been doing it for a long time. Anybody out there with proof
that this is
possible. Maybe it is easier than I am making it? Are there supplies that
can help? Any help
would be much appreciated!
Scott Boyle
Free Reports @ http://www.aquarium <http://www.aquariumbliss.com> bliss.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19318 From: Tony Donatelli Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: petwink.com?
Has anyone seen this petwink.com website? It looks brand new. Seems
like a place to put up pictures of your pets and make friends, but in
addition to the standard dogs and cats, it also supports FISH. The
blog feature looks really cool too. And it's free! This could be
awesome. Anyone else on it? Seems like a pretty easy way to make your
fish a website.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19319 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Planted tank w/ cichlids?
Consider potting your plants if you feel there is a chance of them being
dug by your cichlids. Just bury the pots in the substrate, rather than
rooting the plants in the substrate.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 4:49 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Planted tank w/ cichlids?

My two blood parrots dig up the gravel and spit it into mounds. They do
this primarily on the far right side a 130 gallon tank so there is
another 80 gallons that they leave untouched.
I'm wanting to turn this into a planted tank but I know they will dig
them up on that side. Is it feasible to place plants in the wooly plant
blocks in that particular area?
The plants will likely have the gravel removed from their base but they
will stay in place for the most part and stay weighted down as well.
The rest of the tank would have the plants rooted into the substrate.

Good idea? Bad idea?

Also, I have 140 watts of light on this tank. Is that enough for low
light plants?

Thanks,
L
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19320 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Growing Plants with a UGF
I'm sure it would work fine with floater plants and plants that do not
develop much of a root system.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19321 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Fish ID & Plant gunk
I have posted 2 pictures under the album "Identify". One is of a gunk
that is growing on one of my plants, what is this? Algae? How do I get
rid of it?

This fish is the little white tetra I always talk about but I always
call him the mystery tetra. Can someone tell me what this is? Someone
told me about a year ago and I forgot.

Thanks!

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19322 From: hank voss Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I have posted 2 pictures under the album "Identify". One is of a
gunk
> that is growing on one of my plants, what is this? Algae? How do
I get
> rid of it?
>
Leslie: =================
It looks like algae.See if you can get some Otocinclus affinis
sucker cats they are good at eating algae of plants.
The white fish is The albino form of Pristella riddlei a very
peaceful fish.Prione to ich though.
Regards Hank





>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19323 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk
Thank you Hank! =)
I will ask around about the sucker fish you mentioned. I've not heard
of them before. After a little reading I see they should get along w/
my angelfish. They won't get eaten will they? My angels have picked
off zebra danios before.

It's good to know what this little tetra is. He is the only one and I
want to get some more of his kind.

I've set up my quarentine and it should be stable and ready to put fish
into by Saturday. I plan to find some more tetras, a dwarf blue gourami
and possibly the sucker mouth that you mentioned.

Thanks again,
Leslie





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 11:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19324 From: hank voss Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you Hank! =)
> I will ask around about the sucker fish you mentioned. I've not
heard
> of them before. After a little reading I see they should get
along w/
> my angelfish. They won't get eaten will they? My angels have
picked
> off zebra danios before.
> =====================
Leslie:
the ottos get about 1.5-2in. so they are a little big to be
eaten by the angels.They do have a habit of chaseing other fish
about but ive never seen then do any harm to anyone.
The normal colored Pristella is amuch nicer looking fish
than the albino.
HANK

>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19325 From: Aaron Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID ...
Hi Leslie,

Did you already get the name of the blue-green fish on the groups home
page?

It looks like a Rainbow of some kind, very beautiful colors.

If you know the name can you please tell me so I can try to find some
for my tank. I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Thanks,
Aaron

--- In AquaticLife, Leslie wrote:
>
> I have posted 2 pictures under the album "Identify". ...

> Thanks!
>
> Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19326 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk
Lemon Tetra


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 11:00:19 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish ID & Plant gunk

I have posted 2 pictures under the album "Identify". One is of a gunk
that is growing on one of my plants, what is this? Algae? How do I get
rid of it?

This fish is the little white tetra I always talk about but I always
call him the mystery tetra. Can someone tell me what this is? Someone
told me about a year ago and I forgot.

Thanks!

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19327 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk
http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/characins2/p/lemontetra.htm
found this too.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 11:00:19 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish ID & Plant gunk

I have posted 2 pictures under the album "Identify". One is of a gunk
that is growing on one of my plants, what is this? Algae? How do I get
rid of it?

This fish is the little white tetra I always talk about but I always
call him the mystery tetra. Can someone tell me what this is? Someone
told me about a year ago and I forgot.

Thanks!

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19328 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Growing Plants with a UGF
I've done it successfully, and I've failed miserably with it, and I've had those in between kind of tanks. I never did attempt too hard to find rhyme or reason for my results. The same kind of plant would grow well in one tank, and yet a few tanks down it would be a miserable imitation of what it should have been.

Just be sure you have a good base of substrate and then go with it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of scottboyle9903
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 12:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Growing Plants with a UGF

I'm determined to find someone who has had success growing plants in their aquarium while
simultaneously running an under gravel filter. I realize that because the under gravel filter
causes disruptions to the plants roots - that these plants will then in turn, not grow. I have
never personally gotten this to work, but my buddy who lives up in Ohio ( I live in Florida)
swears he has been doing it for a long time. Anybody out there with proof that this is
possible. Maybe it is easier than I am making it? Are there supplies that can help? Any help
would be much appreciated!
Scott Boyle
Free Reports @ http://www.aquariumbliss.com




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19329 From: hank voss Date: 10/19/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID ...
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <anonymous122899@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Leslie,
>
> Did you already get the name of the blue-green fish on the groups
home
> page?
>
> It looks like a Rainbow of some kind, very beautiful colors.
>
> If you know the name can you please tell me so I can try to find
some
> for my tank. I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area.
>
> Thanks,
> Aaron
> ================
> Melanotaenia lacustris (turquoise) rainbow
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19331 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/20/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID & Plant gunk/Joseph
Hi Joseph,
Mine isn't a lemon tetra but rather a pristella tetra as Harry pointed
out yesterday. The lemon tetra is close but the stripes are going
different directions. The colorations are very similar.
Thanks. =)
Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 8:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Fish ID & Plant gunk



Lemon Tetra

----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge.
<mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net>
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 11:00:19 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish ID & Plant gunk

I have posted 2 pictures under the album "Identify". One is of a gunk
that is growing on one of my plants, what is this? Algae? How do I get
rid of it?

This fish is the little white tetra I always talk about but I always
call him the mystery tetra. Can someone tell me what this is? Someone
told me about a year ago and I forgot.

Thanks!

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19332 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/20/2006
Subject: Re: Fish ID ...
Hi Aaron,
I think it's a turquoise rainbow and probably a male. I know Fosters
and Smith carries them but I'm not a big fan of mail ordering fish. You
might be able to special request them at a lfs in your area. Good luck.
They are really great fish! =)
Leslie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Aaron
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 7:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fish ID ...



Hi Leslie,

Did you already get the name of the blue-green fish on the groups home
page?

It looks like a Rainbow of some kind, very beautiful colors.

If you know the name can you please tell me so I can try to find some
for my tank. I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Thanks,
Aaron

--- In AquaticLife, Leslie wrote:
>
> I have posted 2 pictures under the album "Identify". ...

> Thanks!
>
> Leslie







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19333 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/20/2006
Subject: Ick spots?
One of the large silver dollars I have looks like it might have ick.
I've never had a fish with this before so I'm unsure if it can appear in
just one small patch or does it appear all over the fish?
These fish are spastic and they scrape their scales off a lot so I am
wondering if this is just raised scales. BUT usually they aren't raised
this much.
The spot does in fact look like someone dumped a bit of salt on it, it's
just no where else.

Is that possible? Just having ick in one small place?

Thanks,
L


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19334 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/21/2006
Subject: Re: Ick spots?
I had some fish that was only moderate so I would say yeah.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...>
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 6:25:15 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ick spots?

One of the large silver dollars I have looks like it might have ick.
I've never had a fish with this before so I'm unsure if it can appear in
just one small patch or does it appear all over the fish?
These fish are spastic and they scrape their scales off a lot so I am
wondering if this is just raised scales. BUT usually they aren't raised
this much.
The spot does in fact look like someone dumped a bit of salt on it, it's
just no where else.

Is that possible? Just having ick in one small place?

Thanks,
L

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19335 From: hank voss Date: 10/21/2006
Subject: Re: Ick spots?
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> One of the large silver dollars I have looks like it might have
ick.
> I've never had a fish with this before so I'm unsure if it can
appear in
> just one small patch or does it appear all over the fish?

====================
Leslie:
Ich can be localized in th estart of the cycle it can be just
one dot or on just one fin or one area of the body.Treating it early
you should when it first appears its easy to get rid of.
Regards Hank



> These fish are spastic and they scrape their scales off a lot so I
am
> wondering if this is just raised scales. BUT usually they aren't
raised
> this much.
> The spot does in fact look like someone dumped a bit of salt on
it, it's
> just no where else.
>
> Is that possible? Just having ick in one small place?
>
> Thanks,
> L
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19336 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/21/2006
Subject: Bosemani Rainbows at WalMart
I picked up 3 Bosemani Rainbows at Wal Mart this morning. I didn't go
in there for fish (like I ever do at Wal-Mart), but came out with 3
pretty nice looking ones.
They were $6.50 each and on Fosters and Smith they are $12.99 plus
shipping.

Just passing this on with all the rainbow talk lately. Mine are in
quarantine so we shall see how they do.

Maybe other WalMarts got these in?

~Leslie


PS
There was a grandmother about to buy a dragon fish for her
granddaughter. The guy scooping out the fish said nothing in regards to
their size or temperament but another employee asked her how big her
tank is. They talked and she found out that this fish gets out of
tanks, can live 8 hours out of the water, and would outgrow her 40
gallon tank rather quickly. She decided against this fish and was so
grateful that this guy spoke up. Grrrrrumble grumlble...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19337 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/22/2006
Subject: bio spira
I just ordered some for my new 55 gallon tank, which has 5 tetras and
an algae eating little catfish in it. Please tell me what to do with
the bio spira when it arrives? Will the fish be okay while adding it
to the tank, how much do I use, for how long will I need to do this,
and when can I expect the cycling process to be complete?

My tank has been set up, and with fish, for one week. Everything,
but the ph, looks good. The ph is a bit low, but the fish book says
the tetras are okay with a lower ph.

Although I may sound like I know what I'm doing, I don't!

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19338 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/22/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Do you have a nitrate reading when you test? What is it?

If you ordered the 55 gal. Biospira bag, then you use all of it. Make
sure the package is cool when it arrives, give it a good shake and
squirt it in.
Don’t let it sit outside and get warm. The bacteria will die and it’s
then useless.

It’s typically safe to add fish within 24 hours after adding the
BioSpira. But since you already have fish in there… I don’t know, keep
you fingers crossed and hope you purchased tough fish.

You said everything but the pH looks good. What are the numbers of
everything when you did your tests?

~Leslie
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 12:12 PM
To: aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] bio spira

I just ordered some for my new 55 gallon tank, which has 5 tetras and
an algae eating little catfish in it. Please tell me what to do with
the bio spira when it arrives? Will the fish be okay while adding it
to the tank, how much do I use, for how long will I need to do this,
and when can I expect the cycling process to be complete?

My tank has been set up, and with fish, for one week. Everything,
but the ph, looks good. The ph is a bit low, but the fish book says
the tetras are okay with a lower ph.

Although I may sound like I know what I'm doing, I don't!

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. <mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com> com
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioriti
<http://www.prioritiesonline.com> esonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpad <http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio> a.com/jfazio to
preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19339 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/22/2006
Subject: Cory Cats & Pictus?
Would a pictus catfish go OK with cory cats?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19340 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Hi Leslie:

So, I am taking a chance with the fishes' lives
by putting that bio spira stuff in there with
them in it? Is there an alternative, like maybe
putting them into the 10 gallon that contains two
other types of tetras and then adding the bacteria to the 55 gallon?

I did take tests this morning from all my
tanks. The ones with problems, I did a 30% water
change, just as I've been doing all along whenever reading a problem.

6 gallon betta tank - note: nitrites have been
showing up for the past week or more. Again,
with each reading (every day or so), I've done the 30% water change.
Nitrite was 3.0 this morning. It is now reading
1.0 (is it too early to take another test? I did
the water change within the past hour). this tank is about 8 - 10 weeks old.
Nitrate 0
Alkaline 0
PH 6.8
Hardness 75

10 gallon tank - to be quarantine tank (was
completely drained after the guppies all died of
ick - left the substrate alone, but cleaned it of
the salt I had used) - there have been two hardy
tetras in there for about 3 weeks now who seem well.
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20 (this was the first time that this
tank gave me a high nitrate reading. just did a
30% water change. now reads 0)
Alkaline 0
PH 6.8
Hardness 75

55 Gallon - a little over a week old

Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Alkaline 0
PH 6.8
Hardness 75

Thanks, much.

Jeannie Fazio

PS Has anyone heard from the gal who lives in
Hawaii? I hope she and her family are all well; fishies too!




At 06:07 PM 10/22/2006, you wrote:

>Do you have a nitrate reading when you test? What is it?
>
>If you ordered the 55 gal. Biospira bag, then you use all of it. Make
>sure the package is cool when it arrives, give it a good shake and
>squirt it in.
>Don’t let it sit outside and get warm. The bacteria will die and it’s
>then useless.
>
>It’s typically safe to add fish within 24 hours after adding the
>BioSpira. But since you already have fish in there… I don’t know, keep
>you fingers crossed and hope you purchased tough fish.
>
>You said everything but the pH looks good. What are the numbers of
>everything when you did your tests?
>
>~Leslie
>--
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19341 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Hi Jeannie,

Adding BioSpira to the tank w/ the fish in it isn’t chancing their lives
anymore than putting the fish in there before it’s cycled. The ammonia
& nitrite spikes are tough on fish and many will not live through such a
harsh environment change.

A nitrate reading of 20 isn’t bad. I wouldn’t change the water for
that.
Plus, changing water that often during a cycle might slow the whole
process down. I’m not 100% on that, but I’m thinking so.

There is no mention of an ammonia reading on any of your test results.
Do you have a test for this? If not, you should get one. That’s one of
the #1 things to check for on a regular basis, especially during a cycle
process.

If you have a 10 gal tank you can add the fish into (that is assuming
the 10 gal is cycled), I would do that until you get the BioSpira.
Although 3 weeks doesn’t give much of a chance that it has completely
cycled. Watch the fish closely to catch any changes in their behavior
to indicate you might be having an ammonia or nitrite spike. Once you
get the BioSpira, shake it up, add it all into the 55 and wait 24-48
hours at least. Do your tests and if they are good, then add your fish
back.

Personally, I would squirt MOST of the BioSpira into the 55 and save a
little for the other two tanks you have up and going. I’d squirt a
little into the 10 as well as into your betta tank. It will speed up
the cycle process and help to establish the bacterial colony.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 7:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] bio spira

Hi Leslie:

So, I am taking a chance with the fishes' lives
by putting that bio spira stuff in there with
them in it? Is there an alternative, like maybe
putting them into the 10 gallon that contains two
other types of tetras and then adding the bacteria to the 55 gallon?

I did take tests this morning from all my
tanks. The ones with problems, I did a 30% water
change, just as I've been doing all along whenever reading a problem.

6 gallon betta tank - note: nitrites have been
showing up for the past week or more. Again,
with each reading (every day or so), I've done the 30% water change.
Nitrite was 3.0 this morning. It is now reading
1.0 (is it too early to take another test? I did
the water change within the past hour). this tank is about 8 - 10 weeks
old.
Nitrate 0
Alkaline 0
PH 6.8
Hardness 75

10 gallon tank - to be quarantine tank (was
completely drained after the guppies all died of
ick - left the substrate alone, but cleaned it of
the salt I had used) - there have been two hardy
tetras in there for about 3 weeks now who seem well.
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20 (this was the first time that this
tank gave me a high nitrate reading. just did a
30% water change. now reads 0)
Alkaline 0
PH 6.8
Hardness 75

55 Gallon - a little over a week old

Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Alkaline 0
PH 6.8
Hardness 75

Thanks, much.

Jeannie Fazio

PS Has anyone heard from the gal who lives in
Hawaii? I hope she and her family are all well; fishies too!

At 06:07 PM 10/22/2006, you wrote:

>Do you have a nitrate reading when you test? What is it?
>
>If you ordered the 55 gal. Biospira bag, then you use all of it. Make
>sure the package is cool when it arrives, give it a good shake and
>squirt it in.
>Don’t let it sit outside and get warm. The bacteria will die and it’s
>then useless.
>
>It’s typically safe to add fish within 24 hours after adding the
>BioSpira. But since you already have fish in there… I don’t know, keep
>you fingers crossed and hope you purchased tough fish.
>
>You said everything but the pH looks good. What are the numbers of
>everything when you did your tests?
>
>~Leslie
>--



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19342 From: wendie Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
No, it's just bacteria and won't hurt them at all. I've used it several
ways - adding it two or three hours before adding fish, adding it to
an established tank with fish and adding it just after putting fish
in. There is no problem adding it to the tank.

I use it all the time to establish tanks. I haven't had a problem
yet in several years.

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 7:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] bio spira


Hi Leslie:

So, I am taking a chance with the fishes' lives
by putting that bio spira stuff in there with
them in it? Is there an alternative, like maybe
putting them into the 10 gallon that contains two
other types of tetras and then adding the bacteria to the 55 gallon?

I did take tests this morning from all my
tanks. The ones with problems, I did a 30% water
change, just as I've been doing all along whenever reading a problem.

6 gallon betta tank - note: nitrites have been
showing up for the past week or more. Again,
with each reading (every day or so), I've done the 30% water change.
Nitrite was 3.0 this morning. It is now reading
1.0 (is it too early to take another test? I did
the water change within the past hour). this tank is about 8 - 10 weeks
old.
Nitrate 0
Alkaline 0
PH 6.8
Hardness 75

10 gallon tank - to be quarantine tank (was
completely drained after the guppies all died of
ick - left the substrate alone, but cleaned it of
the salt I had used) - there have been two hardy
tetras in there for about 3 weeks now who seem well.
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20 (this was the first time that this
tank gave me a high nitrate reading. just did a
30% water change. now reads 0)
Alkaline 0
PH 6.8
Hardness 75

55 Gallon - a little over a week old

Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Alkaline 0
PH 6.8
Hardness 75

Thanks, much.

Jeannie Fazio

PS Has anyone heard from the gal who lives in
Hawaii? I hope she and her family are all well; fishies too!

At 06:07 PM 10/22/2006, you wrote:

>Do you have a nitrate reading when you test? What is it?
>
>If you ordered the 55 gal. Biospira bag, then you use all of it. Make
>sure the package is cool when it arrives, give it a good shake and
>squirt it in.
>Don’t let it sit outside and get warm. The bacteria will die and it’s
>then useless.
>
>It’s typically safe to add fish within 24 hours after adding the
>BioSpira. But since you already have fish in there… I don’t know, keep
>you fingers crossed and hope you purchased tough fish.
>
>You said everything but the pH looks good. What are the numbers of
>everything when you did your tests?
>
>~Leslie
>--






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19343 From: snerticus Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
Okay, this is going to sound really, really stupid; but I just don't
understand. Since I have no experience with BioSpira and didn't even
know it was a liquid (I thought it was a hard type of substrate that
was infused with the bacteria), I need to ask a silly question.

If I am correct in assuming that if the BioSpira arrives and is at
room temperature and not "cool" it is considered warm and therefore
may not be viable and quite possibly all the bacteria will be dead.
Is this correct?

If so, then when you add the Bio Spira to your "warm" aquarium water,
shouldn't it - in theory - die as well?

It just doesn't make sense that so much care has to be spent in
shipping it cooled and then you add it to warm tank water. Can
someone explain this to me?

Thanks

Snert :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19344 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
I may be way off but my understanding is that the cool temperature keeps
the bacteria in an inactive state which prolongs its’ life span. If
it’s warm, then the bacteria is active and will quickly die, much likely
before you are able to use it and the tank will not benefit from it.
Once the cool, inactive bacteria is awakened in the tank water, it does
its’ job and cycles the tank and thrives w/ the moving water/oxygen.

Hope that’s close. I don’t explain things very well via email. It makes
sense when I type it but when I go back and read it after it’s been sent
and my mindset is different; I see that it often makes no sense. I hope
this isn’t one of those occasions. =)

Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of snerticus
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 10:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bio spira

Okay, this is going to sound really, really stupid; but I just don't
understand. Since I have no experience with BioSpira and didn't even
know it was a liquid (I thought it was a hard type of substrate that
was infused with the bacteria), I need to ask a silly question.

If I am correct in assuming that if the BioSpira arrives and is at
room temperature and not "cool" it is considered warm and therefore
may not be viable and quite possibly all the bacteria will be dead.
Is this correct?

If so, then when you add the Bio Spira to your "warm" aquarium water,
shouldn't it - in theory - die as well?

It just doesn't make sense that so much care has to be spent in
shipping it cooled and then you add it to warm tank water. Can
someone explain this to me?

Thanks

Snert :)



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19345 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira/ammonia readings
Oops, I forgot to mention that the ammonia levels have been 0 for all
3 tanks.

I have been making the 30% changes after reading this in one of the
aquarium books. So, how much do you think I should change when
seeing nitrates? 10%? And at what nitrate level should prompt me to
make the water change? Same with nitrites?

Thanks, Leslie.

Jeannie

At 09:47 AM 10/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi Jeannie,
>
>Adding BioSpira to the tank w/ the fish in it isn't chancing their lives
>anymore than putting the fish in there before it's cycled. The ammonia
>& nitrite spikes are tough on fish and many will not live through such a
>harsh environment change.
>
>A nitrate reading of 20 isn't bad. I wouldn't change the water for
>that.
>Plus, changing water that often during a cycle might slow the whole
>process down. I'm not 100% on that, but I'm thinking so.
>
>There is no mention of an ammonia reading on any of your test results.
>Do you have a test for this? If not, you should get one. That's one of
>the #1 things to check for on a regular basis, especially during a cycle
>process.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19346 From: wendie Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira
That's pretty much it. If the packet hasn't been kept warm for too long a
period,
you can put it back in the fridge and the bacteria - or what's left - will
once
again become inactive. I keep it in the fridge for about 6 months at which
point
it loses it's punch. I have had some work beyond the six months but not
that often. I keep some on hand all the time as I am constantly setting up
Q tanks and rearranging other tanks.
Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 10:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: bio spira


I may be way off but my understanding is that the cool temperature keeps
the bacteria in an inactive state which prolongs its’ life span. If
it’s warm, then the bacteria is active and will quickly die, much likely
before you are able to use it and the tank will not benefit from it.
Once the cool, inactive bacteria is awakened in the tank water, it does
its’ job and cycles the tank and thrives w/ the moving water/oxygen.

Hope that’s close. I don’t explain things very well via email. It makes
sense when I type it but when I go back and read it after it’s been sent
and my mindset is different; I see that it often makes no sense. I hope
this isn’t one of those occasions. =)

Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of snerticus
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 10:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bio spira

Okay, this is going to sound really, really stupid; but I just don't
understand. Since I have no experience with BioSpira and didn't even
know it was a liquid (I thought it was a hard type of substrate that
was infused with the bacteria), I need to ask a silly question.

If I am correct in assuming that if the BioSpira arrives and is at
room temperature and not "cool" it is considered warm and therefore
may not be viable and quite possibly all the bacteria will be dead.
Is this correct?

If so, then when you add the Bio Spira to your "warm" aquarium water,
shouldn't it - in theory - die as well?

It just doesn't make sense that so much care has to be spent in
shipping it cooled and then you add it to warm tank water. Can
someone explain this to me?

Thanks

Snert :)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19347 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira/ammonia readings
Jeannie,
Nitrites should always be at 0. Anytime you see a reading over 0, you
should do a small (20-30%) water change and continue to do so daily
until the reading is again 0.

Nitrates are OK up to 40. Most people say no higher than 20, but in
many cases up to 40 is OK. I have a friend whose nitrates hit 80 on a
regular basis, no matter how many water changes she does. She does the
changes each week but that particular tank still sits at 80.
My tanks hit 20-40 on nitrates and I’ve never panicked over that. As
long as everything else checks out, I leave it.

I’m off to wash fluorite. This stuff is really nasty!!! My Eclipse 6
looks like a mud pool & I have plants due here in 2 days. Plus my
lights decided to poop out on me. ACK!

=)
Leslie
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 11:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] bio spira/ammonia readings

Oops, I forgot to mention that the ammonia levels have been 0 for all
3 tanks.

I have been making the 30% changes after reading this in one of the
aquarium books. So, how much do you think I should change when
seeing nitrates? 10%? And at what nitrate level should prompt me to
make the water change? Same with nitrites?

Thanks, Leslie.

Jeannie

At 09:47 AM 10/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi Jeannie,
>
>Adding BioSpira to the tank w/ the fish in it isn't chancing their
lives
>anymore than putting the fish in there before it's cycled. The ammonia
>& nitrite spikes are tough on fish and many will not live through such
a
>harsh environment change.
>
>A nitrate reading of 20 isn't bad. I wouldn't change the water for
>that.
>Plus, changing water that often during a cycle might slow the whole
>process down. I'm not 100% on that, but I'm thinking so.
>
>There is no mention of an ammonia reading on any of your test results.
>Do you have a test for this? If not, you should get one. That's one of
>the #1 things to check for on a regular basis, especially during a
cycle
>process.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19348 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira/ammonia readings
Actually, while the goal to keep the nitrates low is a worthy one, it should not be a be all and end all type of project. Most freshwater fish are not affected with a high level of nitrates--some are, mainly cichlids. _Apistogramma_ spp. Or the newly raised _Mikrogeophagus_ (formerly _Apistogramma_) spp. are examples. Generally, though, you really do not need to worry until you are getting up into the 150-200 ppm range.

Nitrates, however, are anathema to the marine crowd. Most marine organisms are affected by even small amounts of nitrates in the water.

Don't worry so much about nitrates. Regular water changes should keep it under control. Using live plants will also help quite a bit.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] bio spira/ammonia readings

Jeannie,
Nitrites should always be at 0. Anytime you see a reading over 0, you
should do a small (20-30%) water change and continue to do so daily
until the reading is again 0.

Nitrates are OK up to 40. Most people say no higher than 20, but in
many cases up to 40 is OK. I have a friend whose nitrates hit 80 on a
regular basis, no matter how many water changes she does. She does the
changes each week but that particular tank still sits at 80.
My tanks hit 20-40 on nitrates and I've never panicked over that. As
long as everything else checks out, I leave it.

I'm off to wash fluorite. This stuff is really nasty!!! My Eclipse 6
looks like a mud pool & I have plants due here in 2 days. Plus my
lights decided to poop out on me. ACK!

=)
Leslie
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 11:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] bio spira/ammonia readings

Oops, I forgot to mention that the ammonia levels have been 0 for all
3 tanks.

I have been making the 30% changes after reading this in one of the
aquarium books. So, how much do you think I should change when
seeing nitrates? 10%? And at what nitrate level should prompt me to
make the water change? Same with nitrites?

Thanks, Leslie.

Jeannie

At 09:47 AM 10/23/2006, you wrote:

>Hi Jeannie,
>
>Adding BioSpira to the tank w/ the fish in it isn't chancing their
lives
>anymore than putting the fish in there before it's cycled. The ammonia
>& nitrite spikes are tough on fish and many will not live through such
a
>harsh environment change.
>
>A nitrate reading of 20 isn't bad. I wouldn't change the water for
>that.
>Plus, changing water that often during a cycle might slow the whole
>process down. I'm not 100% on that, but I'm thinking so.
>
>There is no mention of an ammonia reading on any of your test results.
>Do you have a test for this? If not, you should get one. That's one of
>the #1 things to check for on a regular basis, especially during a
cycle
>process.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19349 From: reynorbm100 Date: 10/23/2006
Subject: Re: bio spira/ammonia readings
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Actually, while the goal to keep the nitrates low is a worthy one,
it should not be a be all and end all type of project. Most
freshwater fish are not affected with a high level of nitrates--some
are, mainly cichlids. _Apistogramma_ spp. Or the newly raised
_Mikrogeophagus_ (formerly _Apistogramma_) spp. are examples.
Generally, though, you really do not need to worry until you are
getting up into the 150-200 ppm range.
>
> Nitrates, however, are anathema to the marine crowd. Most marine
organisms are affected by even small amounts of nitrates in the
water.
>
> Don't worry so much about nitrates. Regular water changes should
keep it under control. Using live plants will also help quite a bit.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:16 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] bio spira/ammonia readings
>
> Jeannie,
> Nitrites should always be at 0. Anytime you see a reading over 0,
you
> should do a small (20-30%) water change and continue to do so daily
> until the reading is again 0.
>
> Nitrates are OK up to 40. Most people say no higher than 20, but
in
> many cases up to 40 is OK. I have a friend whose nitrates hit 80
on a
> regular basis, no matter how many water changes she does. She
does the
> changes each week but that particular tank still sits at 80.
> My tanks hit 20-40 on nitrates and I've never panicked over that.
As
> long as everything else checks out, I leave it.
>
> I'm off to wash fluorite. This stuff is really nasty!!! My
Eclipse 6
> looks like a mud pool & I have plants due here in 2 days. Plus my
> lights decided to poop out on me. ACK!
>
> =)
> Leslie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 11:25 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] bio spira/ammonia readings
>
> Oops, I forgot to mention that the ammonia levels have been 0 for
all
> 3 tanks.
>
> I have been making the 30% changes after reading this in one of
the
> aquarium books. So, how much do you think I should change when
> seeing nitrates? 10%? And at what nitrate level should prompt me
to
> make the water change? Same with nitrites?
>
> Thanks, Leslie.
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 09:47 AM 10/23/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Hi Jeannie,
> >
> >Adding BioSpira to the tank w/ the fish in it isn't chancing their
> lives
> >anymore than putting the fish in there before it's cycled. The
ammonia
> >& nitrite spikes are tough on fish and many will not live through
such
> a
> >harsh environment change.
> >
> >A nitrate reading of 20 isn't bad. I wouldn't change the water for
> >that.
> >Plus, changing water that often during a cycle might slow the
whole
> >process down. I'm not 100% on that, but I'm thinking so.
> >
> >There is no mention of an ammonia reading on any of your test
results.
> >Do you have a test for this? If not, you should get one. That's
one of
> >the #1 things to check for on a regular basis, especially during a
> cycle
> >process.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

hi,thank u to all that,im a member of your aquatic group,im still
new here my experience in aquatic life is in fispond culture,like
prawn culture,from intensive, to traditional in big sorounding of
ponds by hectar of size,with milkfish, and tilapia fish,im also
working before in prawn hatcery and big fisponds for me my comment
for bio-spira is the nitrates will be low to keep fresh water clean.
>reyno
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19350 From: plantlady Angie Date: 10/24/2006
Subject: Hi, I am Angie, i just joined
Hello. I just joined this group. My name is Angie, I am 41 years old and I live in Ontario Canada. I am happily married with four children and one on the way due in December.
My friends and family call me The Plant Lady and those who are even closer to me call me The Christmas Nut. I have well over 200 houseplants as well as gardens.
I have so many pets as I tend to be the person people call on or drop off animals to when they don’t want them any more. right now or extended family consists of: fish (12 tanks), dogs, cats, hamsters, guines pigs, rabbits, birds, goats, chickens, iguana, newts, frogs, turtles and a horse.
Currently my fish babies are; gouramis, guppies, goldfish, bettas, cichlids, angels, platies, danios, tetras, newts and crabs.
I am always looking to learn about my critters to make sure they are getting the best home they can.
I am glad to have joined this group.
Angie


AquaticLife Moderator <AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hello,

Welcome to AquaticLife - the #1 Yahoo! Fish Group. ><))))º>

* Now on MySpace too! ~ http://www.myspace.com/AquaticLifeGroup

& http://groups.myspace.com/AquaticLife

.·´¯´`·.¸¸.><((((º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><))))º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>

The AquaticLife group at Yahoo! Groups, is a free, easy-to-use email group service.

Please take a moment to review this message.

Whatever your level of interest in Aquatic Life, this is the place to be.
Ask questions, share pictures, tell us about your tanks and fish!

PLEASE introduce yourself and your wet pets to the list.
Remember, this list is for you, an Aquarist. Keep it clean, keep it fun, and keep it to the point. A certain amount of off topic material may be allowed, but let's keep it in hand and try to stay on topic.



Angie, the plant lady
Ontario Canada (plant zone 5/6)
If you can laugh at it, you can live with it.
-Erma Bombeck
http://ca.360.yahoo.com/plantladywithcfids

















---------------------------------
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19351 From: Imus Date: 10/24/2006
Subject: 20 gal tank with wood stand and extras for sale 50.00
This is only available to someone who is willing to pick it up or
pay for the shipping


I have used the tank it deffently holds water, it wasjust taking
down Saturday Oct 7.

I have EVERYTHING you would need to get started

I am including with tank: 1 overhead light there are 4 different
lights to chose from 1 matches the tank (wood gran) the others have
a black finish, Hood cover 2 to chose from, one matches tank (wood
grain) the other is black, 20+ lbs of black gravel, Heater, LOTS of
rocks both coral looking and slate, undergravel filter/buble maker
with tons of tubing, double exit pump and shut off valves, tank
water condictioner, fish net,big bag of plastic plants, aquarium
salt and a wooden tank stand.

If you want you can take it all

Sorry no shipping , Pick up only









e-mail seamusmercerhursh@... or call 520-932-3304


--------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19352 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/24/2006
Subject: Re: Hi, I am Angie, i just joined
Welcome and congrats on your one on the way. You don't say were in Ontario you are, but if you are near London, you might want to look up the club there and meet the real plant lady, Dorothy Reimer, known world wide for her talent with aquatic plants.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of plantlady Angie
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 7:26 PM
To: AquaticLife Moderator
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hi, I am Angie, i just joined

Hello. I just joined this group. My name is Angie, I am 41 years old and I live in Ontario Canada. I am happily married with four children and one on the way due in December.
My friends and family call me The Plant Lady and those who are even closer to me call me The Christmas Nut. I have well over 200 houseplants as well as gardens.
I have so many pets as I tend to be the person people call on or drop off animals to when they don't want them any more. right now or extended family consists of: fish (12 tanks), dogs, cats, hamsters, guines pigs, rabbits, birds, goats, chickens, iguana, newts, frogs, turtles and a horse.
Currently my fish babies are; gouramis, guppies, goldfish, bettas, cichlids, angels, platies, danios, tetras, newts and crabs.
I am always looking to learn about my critters to make sure they are getting the best home they can.
I am glad to have joined this group.
Angie


AquaticLife Moderator <AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hello,

Welcome to AquaticLife - the #1 Yahoo! Fish Group. ><))))º>

* Now on MySpace too! ~ http://www.myspace.com/AquaticLifeGroup

& http://groups.myspace.com/AquaticLife
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19353 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hi, I am Angie, i just joined
Awesome Hello Angie and welcome. I have had half of what you have for pets lol.


----- Original Message ----
From: plantlady Angie <plantladywithcfids@...>
To: AquaticLife Moderator <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 7:26:23 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hi, I am Angie, i just joined

Hello. I just joined this group. My name is Angie, I am 41 years old and I live in Ontario Canada. I am happily married with four children and one on the way due in December.
My friends and family call me The Plant Lady and those who are even closer to me call me The Christmas Nut. I have well over 200 houseplants as well as gardens.
I have so many pets as I tend to be the person people call on or drop off animals to when they don�t want them any more. right now or extended family consists of: fish (12 tanks), dogs, cats, hamsters, guines pigs, rabbits, birds, goats, chickens, iguana, newts, frogs, turtles and a horse.
Currently my fish babies are; gouramis, guppies, goldfish, bettas, cichlids, angels, platies, danios, tetras, newts and crabs.
I am always looking to learn about my critters to make sure they are getting the best home they can.
I am glad to have joined this group.
Angie

AquaticLife Moderator <AquaticLife- owner@yahoogroup s.com> wrote:
Hello,

Welcome to AquaticLife - the #1 Yahoo! Fish Group. ><))))�>

* Now on MySpace too! ~ http://www.myspace. com/AquaticLifeG roup

& http://groups. myspace.com/ AquaticLife

.����`�.��.><((((�> .���`�.��.><))))�> .���`�.��.><((((�>

The AquaticLife group at Yahoo! Groups, is a free, easy-to-use email group service.

Please take a moment to review this message.

Whatever your level of interest in Aquatic Life, this is the place to be.
Ask questions, share pictures, tell us about your tanks and fish!

PLEASE introduce yourself and your wet pets to the list.
Remember, this list is for you, an Aquarist. Keep it clean, keep it fun, and keep it to the point. A certain amount of off topic material may be allowed, but let's keep it in hand and try to stay on topic.

Angie, the plant lady
Ontario Canada (plant zone 5/6)
If you can laugh at it, you can live with it.
-Erma Bombeck
http://ca.360. yahoo.com/ plantladywithcfi ds


------------ --------- --------- ---
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19354 From: Wayne Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hi, I am Angie, i just joined
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, plantlady Angie
<plantladywithcfids@...> wrote:
>
> Hello. I just joined this group. My name is Angie, I am 41 years old
and I live in Ontario Canada. I am happily married with four children
and one on the way due in December.
> My friends and family call me The Plant Lady and those who are even
closer to me call me The Christmas Nut. I have well over 200 houseplants
as well as gardens.
> I have so many pets as I tend to be the person people call on or drop
off animals to when they don't want them any more. right now or
extended family consists of: fish (12 tanks), dogs, cats, hamsters,
guines pigs, rabbits, birds, goats, chickens, iguana, newts, frogs,
turtles and a horse.
> Currently my fish babies are; gouramis, guppies, goldfish, bettas,
cichlids, angels, platies, danios, tetras, newts and crabs.
> I am always looking to learn about my critters to make sure they are
getting the best home they can.
> I am glad to have joined this group.
> Angie
>
>
> AquaticLife Moderator AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Welcome to AquaticLife - the #1 Yahoo! Fish Group. ><))))º>
>
> * Now on MySpace too! ~ http://www.myspace.com/AquaticLifeGroup
>
> & http://groups.myspace.com/AquaticLife
>
> .·´¯´`·.¸¸.><((((º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><))))º>
.·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>
>
> The AquaticLife group at Yahoo! Groups, is a free, easy-to-use email
group service.
>
> Please take a moment to review this message.
>
> Whatever your level of interest in Aquatic Life, this is the place to
be.
> Ask questions, share pictures, tell us about your tanks and fish!
>
> PLEASE introduce yourself and your wet pets to the list.
> Remember, this list is for you, an Aquarist. Keep it clean, keep it
fun, and keep it to the point. A certain amount of off topic material
may be allowed, but let's keep it in hand and try to stay on topic.
>
>
>
> Angie, the plant lady
> Ontario Canada (plant zone 5/6)
> If you can laugh at it, you can live with it.
> -Erma Bombeck
> http://ca.360.yahoo.com/plantladywithcfids
>



Hi Angie and welcome to this great group.

We must say that you are one busy lady. Where do you get all the energy
from?? We were just exhausted by just reading your intro letter. We have
been raising freshwater tropical fish for ten years now. Our lives are
not as busy as your's but being retired our five tanks keep us on the
go. We look forward to sharing our expertise (in the aquatic arena)
should the need arise.......

Jenny & Wayne
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email
the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19355 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: Oniline plant source on eBay...FANTASTIC
I purchased a lot of plants from this seller on eBay and they are all
wonderful. He included instructions for planting as well as a
fertilizer tab for each plant. I received them lightening fast. REALLY
NICE plants! Plus the shipping is crazy cheap if you buy more than one.


Here is the eBay link.have fun & tell me what you think if you buy some!
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZmikeswetpetsQQhtZ-1

~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19356 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: plants/fish
Also, what types of plants would you recommend for the 55 gallon with
regular florescent lighting (vs plant lights)? And my next batch of
community fish could be...? There are currently 5 tetras and 1 small
algae eating catfish in the tank.

Thanks, again.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19357 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: added the bio spira
Hi:

I've just added much of the 90 gallon package to my 55 gallon with
the rest going into the 10 and 6 gallon tanks. Can I now start
adding plants and as many fish as I'd like?

Thanks for all your help.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19358 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/25/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
It is pretty much up to you. Most plants will survive the plain
fluorescent lighting, if not do well. Do you want to create a biotope
type of tank with plants and fish ostensibly from a specific geographic
area? (I say ostensibly because it is really tough to do, and most of us
who do it end up cheating with at least on plant of fish out of place.)
Do you just want something to look good with various plants and fish,
without trying to math them up?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 5:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] plants/fish

Also, what types of plants would you recommend for the 55 gallon with
regular florescent lighting (vs plant lights)? And my next batch of
community fish could be...? There are currently 5 tetras and 1 small
algae eating catfish in the tank.

Thanks, again.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19359 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
Good morning, Steve. I love warm, earthy colors
and would love for my community tank to reflect
that. Other than that, I am not fussy except to
say that I like the unique types of colorful fishes and plants.

Last night, I followed the ebay link sent to the
list and saw some red ludwilla (sic?) plants that
were pretty. I would love to do a nice
background, mid and foreground of pretty plants.

Regarding fish, those discus and cichlids are
quite unique, but because they're not community
fishes, I realize they won't be appropriate, but
something colorful and different that will get
along with everyone in the tank.

Oh, my gravel and background are both
black. There is a big orange rock, too.

Can I start adding both plants and fish now? How
do I know that the bio stuff is
working? Although the ice pack contained in the
mailing package was melted, the bio spira was
still cold. Is that a good thing? I did a test
this morning and all tanks are doing great.

Thanks, so much.

Jeannie

At 10:34 PM 10/25/2006, you wrote:

>It is pretty much up to you. Most plants will survive the plain
>fluorescent lighting, if not do well. Do you want to create a biotope
>type of tank with plants and fish ostensibly from a specific geographic
>area? (I say ostensibly because it is really tough to do, and most of us
>who do it end up cheating with at least on plant of fish out of place.)
>Do you just want something to look good with various plants and fish,
>without trying to math them up?
>
>\\Steve//
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
>Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 5:54 PM
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] plants/fish
>
>Also, what types of plants would you recommend for the 55 gallon with
>regular florescent lighting (vs plant lights)? And my next batch of
>community fish could be...? There are currently 5 tetras and 1 small
>algae eating catfish in the tank.
>
>Thanks, again.
>
>Jeannie Fazio - <mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
><http://www.prioritiesonline.com>http://www.prioritiesonline.com
>:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
>Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
><http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio>http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio
>to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
>sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>


Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19360 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
PS I'd like to transfer the tetras that are in my 10 gallon to the 55
gallon with the different kind of tetras, and then save the 10 gallon
as my quarantine tank. The betta is in my 6 gallon, but I don't want
to try him in the 55 gallon. He's thriving well in the 6
gallon. Any thoughts on these plans? Thanks, again.

Good morning, Steve. I love warm, earthy colors and would love for
my community tank to reflect that. Other than that, I am not fussy
except to say that I like the unique types of colorful fishes and plants.

Last night, I followed the ebay link sent to the list and saw some
red ludwilla (sic?) plants that were pretty. I would love to do a
nice background, mid and foreground of pretty plants.

Regarding fish, those discus and cichlids are quite unique, but
because they're not community fishes, I realize they won't be
appropriate, but something colorful and different that will get along
with everyone in the tank.

Oh, my gravel and background are both black. There is a big orange
rock, too.

Can I start adding both plants and fish now? How do I know that the
bio stuff is working? Although the ice pack contained in the mailing
package was melted, the bio spira was still cold. Is that a good
thing? I did a test this morning and all tanks are doing great.

Thanks, so much.

Jeannie

At 10:34 PM 10/25/2006, you wrote:

>It is pretty much up to you. Most plants will survive the plain
>fluorescent lighting, if not do well. Do you want to create a biotope
>ty
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19361 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
Hi Jeannie,
Test your 55 gallon and see if there is any ammonia, nitrite or
nitrates. If ammonia is at 0, the nitrites are at 0 and if there ARE
some nitrates present, then you are probably OK to add the fish.
I think adding the tetras to the 55 is a good idea. Keep the 10
gallons’ filter running on the 55 gallon tank. This will keep that
filter cycled at all times and when you need the 10 gal for an
emergency, you then just take it’s filter off of the 55 and put it back
onto the 10. Instantly cycled tank & you’re ready to quarantine.
I would highly recommend using the 10 gal. to put new fish into. You
never know what the fish have picked up disease wise from their previous
places of residence. You don’t want the new fish to infect your stable,
healthy fish. Keep them in the small tank for a few weeks then add them
to your 55 once you know they are healthy. Your other fish will thank
you. ;)

Do you know how many watts of light your 55 gallon tank is getting?
That would help determine the type of plants you can/can’t have. (I’ve
purchased new lighting just for plants because I didn’t like how limited
I was on my selection.)

~Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 8:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] plants/fish

PS I'd like to transfer the tetras that are in my 10 gallon to the 55
gallon with the different kind of tetras, and then save the 10 gallon
as my quarantine tank. The betta is in my 6 gallon, but I don't want
to try him in the 55 gallon. He's thriving well in the 6
gallon. Any thoughts on these plans? Thanks, again.

Good morning, Steve. I love warm, earthy colors and would love for
my community tank to reflect that. Other than that, I am not fussy
except to say that I like the unique types of colorful fishes and
plants.

Last night, I followed the ebay link sent to the list and saw some
red ludwilla (sic?) plants that were pretty. I would love to do a
nice background, mid and foreground of pretty plants.

Regarding fish, those discus and cichlids are quite unique, but
because they're not community fishes, I realize they won't be
appropriate, but something colorful and different that will get along
with everyone in the tank.

Oh, my gravel and background are both black. There is a big orange
rock, too.

Can I start adding both plants and fish now? How do I know that the
bio stuff is working? Although the ice pack contained in the mailing
package was melted, the bio spira was still cold. Is that a good
thing? I did a test this morning and all tanks are doing great.

Thanks, so much.

Jeannie

At 10:34 PM 10/25/2006, you wrote:

>It is pretty much up to you. Most plants will survive the plain
>fluorescent lighting, if not do well. Do you want to create a biotope
>ty



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19362 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: siphon tools
I am looking to buy a python siphoning tube that will vacuum out my gravel.
The problem is, I have black sand. I did try a cheap siphon tube and it kept
on sucking up the sand. What can I get??

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19363 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: I purchased lights... now ?'s
I finally found the lights I wanted. Here is the link.
http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29392-2357-0?uid=59310963
<http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29392-2357-0?uid=59310963&site=0&ver=EOIB
SA080805&lk=URL&Item=300041848655>
&site=0&ver=EOIBSA080805&lk=URL&Item=300041848655

I'll be putting this 110 w. fixture on a 46 bow front w/ swords,
bananas, anubia & ludwigia to start. I'll be ordering another from the
same seller for 110 watts to go onto the 29 gallon tank. Is that too
much light?

Should I add flourish the same day I add the plants? I plan on adding
fertilizer tablets near each plant.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19364 From: reskie@cogeco.ca Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Injured cory
I got some skunk botias last week and in the few days they were in my 16gal tank, they managed to terrorize my pygmy gouramis and seriously injure one of my corys. His tail fins were nipped almost right down to the body. I took the psycho loaches back to the store and quarantined the cory in water with maracyn. Then his fins started to get fuzzy. I nervously added some fungus guard to the mix but it the 2 days since it seems to be getting worse... He also has no interest in food. Does anyone have further suggestions for meds or should I wait and see if the current ones kick in...or put him to sleep... :-( Sounds dumb but he's a neat little guy and I don't want him to suffer...
Carmen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19365 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Hi All and Welcome Angie!!
Hi all,
I hope everyone is having a great week. Angie it is great to have
you with us. Oh wow, you have a lot of "Aquatic Babies." I only have
one Betta Fish, four AppleSnails and about twenty Trumpet Snails in a
five gallon tank. In a two gallon tank, all alone I have a Livebearer
Fish. I almost killed by accident, all my "AppleSnails" the other
night. I put them in water that had been sitting for well over twenty
four hours from a teapot. The teapot itself is silver but, the bottom
of it was copper. I did not know, but found out the hard way, copper
can kill snails. As you may be able to tell, I am very new to this
and that is one reason why I am in this group. Thank God, the snails
turned out after two days, to be fully recovered and are fine. Have a
great day all and again, welcome Angie. Love, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19366 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
I have not used the bio spira, so I cannot advise you on its use. If you
are testing your tank, Yu should have 0 ppm of ammonia and nitrite
before adding more fish. Once you add more fish, watch the ammonia and
nitrite levels, and don't add more until you reach 0 ppm on both.

Red plants are tough. They actually require more light than green leafed
plants. Check the AGA (http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/) site to see if
they have information on this (I might have gotten it backward, but I do
not believe so). (I'm trying to do 4 things at once right now.)

Leave the betta in the 6 gallon. That is more than enough room for him,
and he will not have anyone thinking those beautiful fins are food. Move
the other fish over to the 55, and let things settle in. What you
probably would want to do is to get a copy of the Baensch Atlas. Look at
Amazon for this to get an idea on pricing (http://tinyurl.com/ygqnn7 for
the latest edition of the book). It has a good section on setting up
your tank, a decent section on plants, then, the fish--pages and pages
and more pages of fish. Don't fall too much in love with any until you
know if they are available. You may need to special order them from your
LFS.

Now that you have totally ignored the advice directly above, and fallen
in love with way too many fish, many that are not readily available, it
is time to get to work.

Use the descriptions as a guide. Look at the maximum size of the fish.
Look at the water temperature range. Look at the pH. Now match your
water conditions to those fish on your list, and knock out those that
are not within the range of your water parameters. Once you have knocked
out a few that way, you'll need to find other criteria that are
important to you to determine which fish are likely to find their way
into your tank.

Oh, FWIW, the orange rock doesn't sound too earthy to me <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 9:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] plants/fish

Good morning, Steve. I love warm, earthy colors
and would love for my community tank to reflect
that. Other than that, I am not fussy except to
say that I like the unique types of colorful fishes and plants.

Last night, I followed the ebay link sent to the
list and saw some red ludwilla (sic?) plants that
were pretty. I would love to do a nice
background, mid and foreground of pretty plants.

Regarding fish, those discus and cichlids are
quite unique, but because they're not community
fishes, I realize they won't be appropriate, but
something colorful and different that will get
along with everyone in the tank.

Oh, my gravel and background are both
black. There is a big orange rock, too.

Can I start adding both plants and fish now? How
do I know that the bio stuff is
working? Although the ice pack contained in the
mailing package was melted, the bio spira was
still cold. Is that a good thing? I did a test
this morning and all tanks are doing great.

Thanks, so much.

Jeannie

At 10:34 PM 10/25/2006, you wrote:

>It is pretty much up to you. Most plants will survive the plain
>fluorescent lighting, if not do well. Do you want to create a biotope
>type of tank with plants and fish ostensibly from a specific geographic
>area? (I say ostensibly because it is really tough to do, and most of
us
>who do it end up cheating with at least on plant of fish out of place.)
>Do you just want something to look good with various plants and fish,
>without trying to math them up?
>
>\\Steve//
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
>Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 5:54 PM
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] plants/fish
>
>Also, what types of plants would you recommend for the 55 gallon with
>regular florescent lighting (vs plant lights)? And my next batch of
>community fish could be...? There are currently 5 tetras and 1 small
>algae eating catfish in the tank.
>
>Thanks, again.
>
>Jeannie Fazio - <mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
><http://www.prioritiesonline.com>http://www.prioritiesonline.com
>:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
>Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
><http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio>http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio
>to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
>sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>


Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19367 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/26/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
You need to be able to control the flow of water through your siphon.
With the cheap one, you can simply kink the hose to slow the flow enough
so it does not suck out the sand, while still getting the detritus from
the tank. I has been quite some time since I've used a Python (sink not
close enough and too high anyway) for some years now, but I do not
recall that it has a flow control either for siphoning. It worked well
when I used it because the height of the faucet was just below the level
I was siphoning most of the tanks to, so the flow was naturally slow.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 10:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] siphon tools

I am looking to buy a python siphoning tube that will vacuum out my
gravel.
The problem is, I have black sand. I did try a cheap siphon tube and it
kept
on sucking up the sand. What can I get??

Harvest wishes
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19368 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: Injured cory
Add one teasponn of aquarium freshwater salt per gallon. That would help him with in producing a slime coat and to heal his wounds as well as fight the fungus infection.


----- Original Message ----
From: "reskie@..." <reskie@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 5:45:00 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Injured cory

I got some skunk botias last week and in the few days they were in my 16gal tank, they managed to terrorize my pygmy gouramis and seriously injure one of my corys. His tail fins were nipped almost right down to the body. I took the psycho loaches back to the store and quarantined the cory in water with maracyn. Then his fins started to get fuzzy. I nervously added some fungus guard to the mix but it the 2 days since it seems to be getting worse... He also has no interest in food. Does anyone have further suggestions for meds or should I wait and see if the current ones kick in...or put him to sleep... :-( Sounds dumb but he's a neat little guy and I don't want him to suffer...
Carmen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19369 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!
The picture is under "indentify" in the photo section of "Aquaticlife".

I have a turquoise rainbow by him self in a 46 bow front. I added 3
boesemani rainbows and 1 Australian rainbow about two hours ago.
Suddenly my otherwise docile turquoise has a strip of flashing color on
his back. It runs along his back from his nose to his tail fin. It's
gorgeous and wild looking but it has me worried. I've never heard of
this.
He's chasing every rainbow as if he's mad and his color strip flashes
off and on.

I know there are several people on here w/ rainbows. Is he just furious
or what? Should I be worried, because I am.?

HELP?!

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19370 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
Good idea Steve.

I sometimes use my thumb over the outlet part of the hose and drain it over a bucket(messy), but the kinking of the hose also works great.



-----Original Message-----
siphon tools


You need to be able to control the flow of water through your siphon.
With the cheap one, you can simply kink the hose to slow the flow enough
so it does not suck out the sand, while still getting the detritus from
the tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19371 From: AquaticLife Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!
I have dwarf neon rainbows, 2 male & 1 female, (the lfs reveresed the
intended 2 females for each male recommendation) the males seem to
only flash when trying to compete for the females attention, however
she tends to hide on the other side of the tank as the 2 get so
preoccupied with themselves they seem to forget about her and she
just slips away, guessing its a mating thing

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> The picture is under "indentify" in the photo section
of "Aquaticlife".
>
> I have a turquoise rainbow by him self in a 46 bow front. I added 3
> boesemani rainbows and 1 Australian rainbow about two hours ago.
> Suddenly my otherwise docile turquoise has a strip of flashing
color on
> his back. It runs along his back from his nose to his tail fin.
It's
> gorgeous and wild looking but it has me worried. I've never heard
of
> this.
> He's chasing every rainbow as if he's mad and his color strip
flashes
> off and on.
>
> I know there are several people on here w/ rainbows. Is he just
furious
> or what? Should I be worried, because I am.?
>
> HELP?!
>
> Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19372 From: hank voss Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> The picture is under "indentify" in the photo section
of "Aquaticlife".
>
> I have a turquoise rainbow by him self in a 46 bow front. I added
3
> boesemani rainbows and 1 Australian rainbow about two hours ago.
> Suddenly my otherwise docile turquoise has a strip of flashing
color on
> his back. It runs along his back from his nose to his tail fin.
It's
> gorgeous and wild looking but it has me worried.
> ================================

The stripe is a normal display of color (mating or sparing with
another male)They can turn it on or off like a light bulb.So dont be
concerned.
Hank



>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19373 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
You could also use a clamp to adjust the flow.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 11:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] siphon tools


Good idea Steve.

I sometimes use my thumb over the outlet part of the hose and drain it over a bucket(messy), but the kinking of the hose also works great.



-----Original Message-----
siphon tools


You need to be able to control the flow of water through your siphon.
With the cheap one, you can simply kink the hose to slow the flow enough
so it does not suck out the sand, while still getting the detritus from
the tank.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19374 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!
Leslie

The flashing "nape" stripe is a typical display behaviour of many
rainbowfish species - the colour is specific to each species. Males are
usually the displayers but there are apparently records of occasional
females doing it too (perhaps hormone imbalance ??)

Usually it is PNG species that show this display and as you have noted it is
quite spectacular - I have also seen it from Melanotaenia mccullochi and
Rhadinocentrus ornatus.

Cheers

Bruce (Hansen)

ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld.org.au/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leslie & Dane Moore" <5moores@...>
To: <uniquaria@yahoogroups.com>; <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>;
<fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:21 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!


The picture is under "indentify" in the photo section of "Aquaticlife".

I have a turquoise rainbow by him self in a 46 bow front. I added 3
boesemani rainbows and 1 Australian rainbow about two hours ago.
Suddenly my otherwise docile turquoise has a strip of flashing color on
his back. It runs along his back from his nose to his tail fin. It's
gorgeous and wild looking but it has me worried. I've never heard of
this.
He's chasing every rainbow as if he's mad and his color strip flashes
off and on.

I know there are several people on here w/ rainbows. Is he just furious
or what? Should I be worried, because I am.?

HELP?!

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19375 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/27/2006
Subject: Re: Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!
Wow Ill say that male is def ready to breed.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...>
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; fishgeeks@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 7:21:51 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Rainbow fish is flashing colors ?!

The picture is under "indentify" in the photo section of "Aquaticlife" .

I have a turquoise rainbow by him self in a 46 bow front. I added 3
boesemani rainbows and 1 Australian rainbow about two hours ago.
Suddenly my otherwise docile turquoise has a strip of flashing color on
his back. It runs along his back from his nose to his tail fin. It's
gorgeous and wild looking but it has me worried. I've never heard of
this.
He's chasing every rainbow as if he's mad and his color strip flashes
off and on.

I know there are several people on here w/ rainbows. Is he just furious
or what? Should I be worried, because I am.?

HELP?!

Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19376 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
Good Morning Leslie and Steve:

Leslie, the lighting wattage is 40. Would that be good for plants?

Steve, I've ordered that pricey book your
recommended for it must be good if you suggested it.
Also, the rock, although it's a real one, seems
to have an earthy orange swirl running through
it, which seems very natural. I will upload a pic of my tanks very soon.
My water readings are have historically been: ph
around 6.4 - 6.8; alkalinity 0; hardness
25. Does that help with picking out appropriate fish?
The betta will be left in the 6 gallon per your
recommendation. Harley thanks you for this
worthy advice as he really does cherish his tail,
er fin (I'm a dog person who is just now learning the fish lingo).

I added the two tetras from the 10 and everyone
seems to be getting along extremely well. All
nitrites, nitrates, ammonia readings are so far very good.

I did the weekly water change yesterday using my
new python. That thing is amazing when it
doesn't blow from the faucet end...left the water
pressure going a bit too long with the regulator
in the off position while getting the temperature
right...the python, for the person in one of the
list's most recent e-mails, does have such an off
switch. Boy, what a mess in my bathroom! :'(

My fear upon doing the change was that it was
taking that bio spira stuff from it that I added
a couple of days ago. It's probably already
circulated and landed in the filter medium by
now, I hope. There was nothing on the packet
that discouraged water changes after adding the stuff.

Plants, like fish, need to be hardy, easy to care for in my tank.

With the fish, they also need to be as peaceful
as my tetras. Looked at a book this morning and
the honey dwarf gourami looks interesting. I
wonder whether the tetras will be safe with the
gourami? Any other similarly unique-looking fish
that would not hurt the tetras? I will be adding
some of the neon tetras at some point, too.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 10:01 AM 10/26/2006, you wrote:

>Hi Jeannie,
>Test your 55 gallon and see if there is any ammonia, nitrite or
>nitrates. If ammonia is at 0, the nitrites are at 0 and if there ARE
>some nitrates present, then you are probably OK to add the fish.
>I think adding the tetras to the 55 is a good idea. Keep the 10
>gallons’ filter running on the 55 gallon tank. This will keep that
>filter cycled at all times and when you need the 10 gal for an
>emergency, you then just take it’s filter off of the 55 and put it back
>onto the 10. Instantly cycled tank & you’re ready to quarantine.
>I would highly recommend using the 10 gal. to put new fish into. You
>never know what the fish have picked up disease wise from their previous
>places of residence. You don’t want the new fish to infect your stable,
>healthy fish. Keep them in the small tank for a few weeks then add them
>to your 55 once you know they are healthy. Your other fish will thank
>you. ;)
>
>Do you know how many watts of light your 55 gallon tank is getting?
>That would help determine the type of plants you can/can’t have. (I’ve
>purchased new lighting just for plants because I didn’t like how limited
>I was on my selection.)
>
>~Leslie
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
>Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 8:15 AM
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] plants/fish
>
>PS I'd like to transfer the tetras that are in my 10 gallon to the 55
>gallon with the different kind of tetras, and then save the 10 gallon
>as my quarantine tank. The betta is in my 6 gallon, but I don't want
>to try him in the 55 gallon. He's thriving well in the 6
>gallon. Any thoughts on these plans? Thanks, again.
>
>Good morning, Steve. I love warm, earthy colors and would love for
>my community tank to reflect that. Other than that, I am not fussy
>except to say that I like the unique types of colorful fishes and
>plants.
>
>Last night, I followed the ebay link sent to the list and saw some
>red ludwilla (sic?) plants that were pretty. I would love to do a
>nice background, mid and foreground of pretty plants.
>
>Regarding fish, those discus and cichlids are quite unique, but
>because they're not community fishes, I realize they won't be
>appropriate, but something colorful and different that will get along
>with everyone in the tank.
>
>Oh, my gravel and background are both black. There is a big orange
>rock, too.
>
>Can I start adding both plants and fish now? How do I know that the
>bio stuff is working? Although the ice pack contained in the mailing
>package was melted, the bio spira was still cold. Is that a good
>thing? I did a test this morning and all tanks are doing great.
>
>Thanks, so much.
>
>Jeannie
>
>At 10:34 PM 10/25/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is pretty much up to you. Most plants will survive the plain
> >fluorescent lighting, if not do well. Do you want to create a biotope
> >ty
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19377 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
Hi Karen:

I cannot believe that I actually have an answer to a fish forum question.

My new python, as stated in my last e-mail to the list, does have a
turn off valve. The only problem with it is when doing the siphoning
alone and leaving the valve in the on position for too long....BOOF,
the thing bursts from the faucet leaving water all over the bathroom
walls, floor, everywhere, and God help you if you happen to be
standing above it...a change of clothing is definitely in order.

Oh, and drs foster and smith's pythons are much cheaper than the fish
stores'.

Has anyone heard from the girl who lives in Hawaii?

Jeannie

At 10:19 AM 10/26/2006, you wrote:

>I am looking to buy a python siphoning tube that will vacuum out my gravel.
>The problem is, I have black sand. I did try a cheap siphon tube and it kept
>on sucking up the sand. What can I get??
>
>Harvest wishes
>Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19378 From: Kenneth Ongsansoy Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Hi guys!
Hello! Im a new member. Its nice to be a part of this group.

By the way, I know a blogsite about fishes and aquariums. You might find it useful.

http://fish-aquarium-care.blogspot.com/

God Bless!





Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19379 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: plants/fish
With regard to the honey gouramis you saw, you need to be aware that the
tetras may nip at the ventrals of this fish, so you would need to keep
an eye out for this behavior, and be prepared to move them out of the
tank, should this be the case. I think the tetras, and other fish, may
see the extended ventrals as worms and not as a part of another fish.
Don't get me wrong, they Honeys and other small gouramis, can be kept in
a community situation quite successfully. Since you only have two of the
tetras, you might want to increase that number to 6 of the same species,
and they will be less likely to bother the honey gourami. Tetras are
schooling fish, and should be kept as such.

You should also be warned that the colors you see in the book are
probably the breeding colors of the fish. The Honeys are not quite as
striking when they are not in breeding form. This is one of the dirty
little secrets of fish photography. I don't want to take any credit
here, but back in the 70's I made comments about how one never saw any
pictures of fish that were not in top shape. No torn fins, no fungus, no
sick fish, only fish that looked as near to perfect as they could be. I
did have the ear of certain people in the hobby who were "names" and
after a few years I did start to see pictures of fish that were not
perfect. The publishing industry still shies away from these photos when
they can, but they do appear in the slicks when discussing certain
topics, unlike the literature previous to the 80's or so, if you care to
collect and look. I'm sure others also arrived at this conclusion, so I
am not taking any credit for this movement of sorts.

Your water parameters will allow you quite a selection of fish, mostly
from inland waters.

The 40 watts of lighting you mention does not bode well for any plants
you might look at. You'll need to look at low-light plants or add more
bulbs to your lighting source. Lighting for plants is a tricky subject.
You will see a lot of different ways to light to achieve the same
results. If you aim for 2-5 watts per gallon, there should be very
little you cannot grow, especially at the higher levels, so for your 55,
you would want to think about a lighting fixture that can hold the
equivalent of 3 40 watt bulbs, if you want a wide assortment of plants
that will do well for you. Right now, I am debating on what I will do to
provide enough light for a water lily that I recently moved indoors for
the winter (it is a tropical water lily). It is tough for me to hang a
metal halide in the area where it is, but that would be the best light
source, or really to hang any light, so I do need to come up with a
unique solution for it, or let the lily sort of drag a long for the
winter. I'd kind of like to see it bloom indoors, though.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] plants/fish

Good Morning Leslie and Steve:

Leslie, the lighting wattage is 40. Would that be good for plants?

Steve, I've ordered that pricey book your
recommended for it must be good if you suggested it.
Also, the rock, although it's a real one, seems
to have an earthy orange swirl running through
it, which seems very natural. I will upload a pic of my tanks very
soon.
My water readings are have historically been: ph
around 6.4 - 6.8; alkalinity 0; hardness
25. Does that help with picking out appropriate fish?
The betta will be left in the 6 gallon per your
recommendation. Harley thanks you for this
worthy advice as he really does cherish his tail,
er fin (I'm a dog person who is just now learning the fish lingo).

I added the two tetras from the 10 and everyone
seems to be getting along extremely well. All
nitrites, nitrates, ammonia readings are so far very good.

I did the weekly water change yesterday using my
new python. That thing is amazing when it
doesn't blow from the faucet end...left the water
pressure going a bit too long with the regulator
in the off position while getting the temperature
right...the python, for the person in one of the
list's most recent e-mails, does have such an off
switch. Boy, what a mess in my bathroom! :'(

My fear upon doing the change was that it was
taking that bio spira stuff from it that I added
a couple of days ago. It's probably already
circulated and landed in the filter medium by
now, I hope. There was nothing on the packet
that discouraged water changes after adding the stuff.

Plants, like fish, need to be hardy, easy to care for in my tank.

With the fish, they also need to be as peaceful
as my tetras. Looked at a book this morning and
the honey dwarf gourami looks interesting. I
wonder whether the tetras will be safe with the
gourami? Any other similarly unique-looking fish
that would not hurt the tetras? I will be adding
some of the neon tetras at some point, too.

Thanks.

Jeannie

At 10:01 AM 10/26/2006, you wrote:

>Hi Jeannie,
>Test your 55 gallon and see if there is any ammonia, nitrite or
>nitrates. If ammonia is at 0, the nitrites are at 0 and if there ARE
>some nitrates present, then you are probably OK to add the fish.
>I think adding the tetras to the 55 is a good idea. Keep the 10
>gallons' filter running on the 55 gallon tank. This will keep that
>filter cycled at all times and when you need the 10 gal for an
>emergency, you then just take it's filter off of the 55 and put it back
>onto the 10. Instantly cycled tank & you're ready to quarantine.
>I would highly recommend using the 10 gal. to put new fish into. You
>never know what the fish have picked up disease wise from their
previous
>places of residence. You don't want the new fish to infect your stable,
>healthy fish. Keep them in the small tank for a few weeks then add them
>to your 55 once you know they are healthy. Your other fish will thank
>you. ;)
>
>Do you know how many watts of light your 55 gallon tank is getting?
>That would help determine the type of plants you can/can't have. (I've
>purchased new lighting just for plants because I didn't like how
limited
>I was on my selection.)
>
>~Leslie
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
>Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 8:15 AM
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] plants/fish
>
>PS I'd like to transfer the tetras that are in my 10 gallon to the 55
>gallon with the different kind of tetras, and then save the 10 gallon
>as my quarantine tank. The betta is in my 6 gallon, but I don't want
>to try him in the 55 gallon. He's thriving well in the 6
>gallon. Any thoughts on these plans? Thanks, again.
>
>Good morning, Steve. I love warm, earthy colors and would love for
>my community tank to reflect that. Other than that, I am not fussy
>except to say that I like the unique types of colorful fishes and
>plants.
>
>Last night, I followed the ebay link sent to the list and saw some
>red ludwilla (sic?) plants that were pretty. I would love to do a
>nice background, mid and foreground of pretty plants.
>
>Regarding fish, those discus and cichlids are quite unique, but
>because they're not community fishes, I realize they won't be
>appropriate, but something colorful and different that will get along
>with everyone in the tank.
>
>Oh, my gravel and background are both black. There is a big orange
>rock, too.
>
>Can I start adding both plants and fish now? How do I know that the
>bio stuff is working? Although the ice pack contained in the mailing
>package was melted, the bio spira was still cold. Is that a good
>thing? I did a test this morning and all tanks are doing great.
>
>Thanks, so much.
>
>Jeannie
>
>At 10:34 PM 10/25/2006, you wrote:
>
> >It is pretty much up to you. Most plants will survive the plain
> >fluorescent lighting, if not do well. Do you want to create a biotope
> >ty
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19380 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
You know, as I was writing my last reply to the list, I was just
thinking of Cinde and wondering how everyone is doing in Hawaii. Since
there was not a lot of destruction and apparent human suffering through
deaths and injury, it faded from the news very quickly. (Not that I
would wish that on anyone so we could be able to keep up with the latest
out of a disaster area.) When I have a bit of time, I'll probably see if
I can find a Hawaii based newspaper online and see what they have to
say. The last I heard was that power was being restored to outlaying
regions, but no such indication as to how the people on the Big Island
were faring, such as Cinde.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:30 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] siphon tools

Hi Karen:

I cannot believe that I actually have an answer to a fish forum
question.

My new python, as stated in my last e-mail to the list, does have a
turn off valve. The only problem with it is when doing the siphoning
alone and leaving the valve in the on position for too long....BOOF,
the thing bursts from the faucet leaving water all over the bathroom
walls, floor, everywhere, and God help you if you happen to be
standing above it...a change of clothing is definitely in order.

Oh, and drs foster and smith's pythons are much cheaper than the fish
stores'.

Has anyone heard from the girl who lives in Hawaii?

Jeannie

At 10:19 AM 10/26/2006, you wrote:

>I am looking to buy a python siphoning tube that will vacuum out my
gravel.
>The problem is, I have black sand. I did try a cheap siphon tube and it
kept
>on sucking up the sand. What can I get??
>
>Harvest wishes
>Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19381 From: Donna Ransome Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
My employer has an office there, and I believe they had power restored and
things approaching normal within 24 hours. No deaths, I heard.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 12:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] siphon tools



You know, as I was writing my last reply to the list, I was just
thinking of Cinde and wondering how everyone is doing in Hawaii. Since
there was not a lot of destruction and apparent human suffering through
deaths and injury, it faded from the news very quickly. (Not that I
would wish that on anyone so we could be able to keep up with the latest
out of a disaster area.) When I have a bit of time, I'll probably see if
I can find a Hawaii based newspaper online and see what they have to
say. The last I heard was that power was being restored to outlaying
regions, but no such indication as to how the people on the Big Island
were faring, such as Cinde.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:30 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] siphon tools

Hi Karen:

I cannot believe that I actually have an answer to a fish forum
question.

My new python, as stated in my last e-mail to the list, does have a
turn off valve. The only problem with it is when doing the siphoning
alone and leaving the valve in the on position for too long....BOOF,
the thing bursts from the faucet leaving water all over the bathroom
walls, floor, everywhere, and God help you if you happen to be
standing above it...a change of clothing is definitely in order.

Oh, and drs foster and smith's pythons are much cheaper than the fish
stores'.

Has anyone heard from the girl who lives in Hawaii?

Jeannie

At 10:19 AM 10/26/2006, you wrote:

>I am looking to buy a python siphoning tube that will vacuum out my
gravel.
>The problem is, I have black sand. I did try a cheap siphon tube and it
kept
>on sucking up the sand. What can I get??
>
>Harvest wishes
>Karen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19382 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Mini Aquarium, USB Or Batteries
Here is a little accessory for your desk--a mini aquarium that only
requires a free USB port to run.

http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/searchdetail.asp?productID=6932&sk=MC
51419

\\Steve//

IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
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low self-esteem, no sense of humor or irrational religious beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorized (either explicitly or
implicitly) and constitutes an irritating social faux pas. Unless the
word absquatulation has been used in its correct context somewhere other
than in this warning, it does not have any legal or no grammatical use
and may be ignored. No animals were harmed in the transmission of this
email, although the terrier next door is living on borrowed time, let me
tell you. Those of you with an overwhelming fear of the unknown will be
gratified to learn that there is no hidden message revealed by reading
this warning backwards, so just ignore that Alert Notice from Microsoft.
However, by pouring a complete circle of salt around yourself and your
computer you can ensure that no harm befalls you and your pets. If you
have received this email in error, please add some nutmeg and egg
whites, whisk and place in a warm oven for 40 minutes.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19383 From: momofholly2002 Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: HELP PLEASE
I noticed Ich on my fancy gold fish 2 days ago I started using "Ich-
Attack" by Kordon. My fish look really really bad today. All but
three of them are just lying on the bottom of the tank.

I have removed all charcoal filtration and did the water changes as
stated even raised the temp.. I'm desperate here I don't want to
loose my fish and I'll do anything to help them.

Would it help if I move the fish to another tank, clean the one that
they are in top to bottom?

My water levels were great all most perfect before this now I'm afraid
to test them.
What should I do?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19384 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Ich is a tough on in goldfish. They have a high oxygen requirement and
when you raise the temperature, water will hold less oxygen. Goldfish
are temperate water fish. They do best when the water temperature is in
the 60's F. The usual treatment for ich is to raise the water
temperature to the mid 80's and add salt to the water. This speeds up
the lifecycle of the organism, and the only real chance you have to kill
the organism is when it is in a free swimming stage looking for a host.

What you should do is to immediately add an airstone or two to try to
saturate the water with oxygen to help the goldfish. I'd discontinue the
use of Ich Attack as that seems to be a general tonic rather than a
specific cure, and add three teaspoons of salt per each 5 gallons of
water. You can use table salt if need be, but get yourself over to the
grocery store and buy some kosher or canning salt when you can to use in
your aquarium (you can also use that as table salt, but it may not be as
free flowing as normal table salt since these types of salt do not
contain anti-caking agents). Bring down your temperature to somewhere in
the 75 degree range. When you do your normal water change, add salt at
the same rate to compensate for the removal of it with the water. Once
the ich has run its course, regular water changes will eventually remove
the salt from the water.

Instead of the normal week to 10 days to remove the infestation, you may
be looking at two to three weeks, but this should help you remove the
ich from the environment better than the course you are now on. Keep in
mind that ich is ever present in an aquatic environment. The onslaught
of the parasite that you have experienced was caused by something that
changed in the environment. You do not mention the size of the goldfish,
nor the size of the tank. Adult goldfish require approximately 30
gallons of water per fish to do well in an aquarium. Your filtration,
both mechanical and biological need to be top notch as goldfish are
notoriously "dirty" fish. Their tank does not require a heater, room
temperature should be more than sufficient for them to do well.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of momofholly2002
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 3:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP PLEASE

I noticed Ich on my fancy gold fish 2 days ago I started using "Ich-
Attack" by Kordon. My fish look really really bad today. All but
three of them are just lying on the bottom of the tank.

I have removed all charcoal filtration and did the water changes as
stated even raised the temp.. I'm desperate here I don't want to
loose my fish and I'll do anything to help them.

Would it help if I move the fish to another tank, clean the one that
they are in top to bottom?

My water levels were great all most perfect before this now I'm afraid
to test them.
What should I do?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19385 From: momofholly2002 Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Should I move the fish from my 55 gal. to a 40 gal. and do a total
water change now? then back to the 55 with some of the "old" water?
Also adding the salt and cleaning everything including the gravel?
My fish are 3" being the largest and 1 1/2" being the smallest. I
have 12 total 6 of them are young lion heads (their heads are just
starting), 2 bubble cheek, 1 bubble eye, 2 black moore. I am
runniing 4 air stones now and 2 filtration systems that are good for
a 40 gal. tank each. Do I need more filtration or air stones? My
water temp is usually around 70 F. Should I add a heater?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ich is a tough on in goldfish. They have a high oxygen requirement
and
> when you raise the temperature, water will hold less oxygen.
Goldfish
> are temperate water fish. They do best when the water temperature
is in
> the 60's F. The usual treatment for ich is to raise the water
> temperature to the mid 80's and add salt to the water. This speeds
up
> the lifecycle of the organism, and the only real chance you have to
kill
> the organism is when it is in a free swimming stage looking for a
host.
>
> What you should do is to immediately add an airstone or two to try
to
> saturate the water with oxygen to help the goldfish. I'd
discontinue the
> use of Ich Attack as that seems to be a general tonic rather than a
> specific cure, and add three teaspoons of salt per each 5 gallons of
> water. You can use table salt if need be, but get yourself over to
the
> grocery store and buy some kosher or canning salt when you can to
use in
> your aquarium (you can also use that as table salt, but it may not
be as
> free flowing as normal table salt since these types of salt do not
> contain anti-caking agents). Bring down your temperature to
somewhere in
> the 75 degree range. When you do your normal water change, add salt
at
> the same rate to compensate for the removal of it with the water.
Once
> the ich has run its course, regular water changes will eventually
remove
> the salt from the water.
>
> Instead of the normal week to 10 days to remove the infestation,
you may
> be looking at two to three weeks, but this should help you remove
the
> ich from the environment better than the course you are now on.
Keep in
> mind that ich is ever present in an aquatic environment. The
onslaught
> of the parasite that you have experienced was caused by something
that
> changed in the environment. You do not mention the size of the
goldfish,
> nor the size of the tank. Adult goldfish require approximately 30
> gallons of water per fish to do well in an aquarium. Your
filtration,
> both mechanical and biological need to be top notch as goldfish are
> notoriously "dirty" fish. Their tank does not require a heater, room
> temperature should be more than sufficient for them to do well.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of momofholly2002
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 3:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP PLEASE
>
> I noticed Ich on my fancy gold fish 2 days ago I started using "Ich-
> Attack" by Kordon. My fish look really really bad today. All but
> three of them are just lying on the bottom of the tank.
>
> I have removed all charcoal filtration and did the water changes as
> stated even raised the temp.. I'm desperate here I don't want to
> loose my fish and I'll do anything to help them.
>
> Would it help if I move the fish to another tank, clean the one
that
> they are in top to bottom?
>
> My water levels were great all most perfect before this now I'm
afraid
> to test them.
> What should I do?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19386 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
That first sentence in my post should read "Ich is a tough one in
goldfish."


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 4:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] HELP PLEASE

Ich is a tough on in goldfish. They have a high oxygen requirement and
when you raise the temperature, water will hold less oxygen. Goldfish
are temperate water fish. They do best when the water temperature is in
the 60's F. The usual treatment for ich is to raise the water
temperature to the mid 80's and add salt to the water. This speeds up
the lifecycle of the organism, and the only real chance you have to kill
the organism is when it is in a free swimming stage looking for a host.

What you should do is to immediately add an airstone or two to try to
saturate the water with oxygen to help the goldfish. I'd discontinue the
use of Ich Attack as that seems to be a general tonic rather than a
specific cure, and add three teaspoons of salt per each 5 gallons of
water. You can use table salt if need be, but get yourself over to the
grocery store and buy some kosher or canning salt when you can to use in
your aquarium (you can also use that as table salt, but it may not be as
free flowing as normal table salt since these types of salt do not
contain anti-caking agents). Bring down your temperature to somewhere in
the 75 degree range. When you do your normal water change, add salt at
the same rate to compensate for the removal of it with the water. Once
the ich has run its course, regular water changes will eventually remove
the salt from the water.

Instead of the normal week to 10 days to remove the infestation, you may
be looking at two to three weeks, but this should help you remove the
ich from the environment better than the course you are now on. Keep in
mind that ich is ever present in an aquatic environment. The onslaught
of the parasite that you have experienced was caused by something that
changed in the environment. You do not mention the size of the goldfish,
nor the size of the tank. Adult goldfish require approximately 30
gallons of water per fish to do well in an aquarium. Your filtration,
both mechanical and biological need to be top notch as goldfish are
notoriously "dirty" fish. Their tank does not require a heater, room
temperature should be more than sufficient for them to do well.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of momofholly2002
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 3:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP PLEASE

I noticed Ich on my fancy gold fish 2 days ago I started using "Ich-
Attack" by Kordon. My fish look really really bad today. All but
three of them are just lying on the bottom of the tank.

I have removed all charcoal filtration and did the water changes as
stated even raised the temp.. I'm desperate here I don't want to
loose my fish and I'll do anything to help them.

Would it help if I move the fish to another tank, clean the one that
they are in top to bottom?

My water levels were great all most perfect before this now I'm afraid
to test them.
What should I do?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19387 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Just do a 50% water change now and add the salt. Cleaning the tank as you
suggest will really do no good. So long as the cysts are on the fish, they
will grow and then split scattering ich all over the tank the fish are in.
You had mentioned raising the temperature in your tank in the previous post,
so one would presume you already had a heater in the tank. A small rise in
the temperature will speed the lifecycle of the ich somewhat, but you cannot
bring it up too much because the oxygen level will drop too far for your
fish, further distressing them.

Your 55 is good enough for two of your fish as they grow, you'll need to
determine what you will do as the fish grow. You'll either need several
tanks, or something in the 300 gallon plus range to keep them all together.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of momofholly2002
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 5:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP PLEASE

Should I move the fish from my 55 gal. to a 40 gal. and do a total
water change now? then back to the 55 with some of the "old" water?
Also adding the salt and cleaning everything including the gravel?
My fish are 3" being the largest and 1 1/2" being the smallest. I
have 12 total 6 of them are young lion heads (their heads are just
starting), 2 bubble cheek, 1 bubble eye, 2 black moore. I am
runniing 4 air stones now and 2 filtration systems that are good for
a 40 gal. tank each. Do I need more filtration or air stones? My
water temp is usually around 70 F. Should I add a heater?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ich is a tough on in goldfish. They have a high oxygen requirement
and
> when you raise the temperature, water will hold less oxygen.
Goldfish
> are temperate water fish. They do best when the water temperature
is in
> the 60's F. The usual treatment for ich is to raise the water
> temperature to the mid 80's and add salt to the water. This speeds
up
> the lifecycle of the organism, and the only real chance you have to
kill
> the organism is when it is in a free swimming stage looking for a
host.
>
> What you should do is to immediately add an airstone or two to try
to
> saturate the water with oxygen to help the goldfish. I'd
discontinue the
> use of Ich Attack as that seems to be a general tonic rather than a
> specific cure, and add three teaspoons of salt per each 5 gallons of
> water. You can use table salt if need be, but get yourself over to
the
> grocery store and buy some kosher or canning salt when you can to
use in
> your aquarium (you can also use that as table salt, but it may not
be as
> free flowing as normal table salt since these types of salt do not
> contain anti-caking agents). Bring down your temperature to
somewhere in
> the 75 degree range. When you do your normal water change, add salt
at
> the same rate to compensate for the removal of it with the water.
Once
> the ich has run its course, regular water changes will eventually
remove
> the salt from the water.
>
> Instead of the normal week to 10 days to remove the infestation,
you may
> be looking at two to three weeks, but this should help you remove
the
> ich from the environment better than the course you are now on.
Keep in
> mind that ich is ever present in an aquatic environment. The
onslaught
> of the parasite that you have experienced was caused by something
that
> changed in the environment. You do not mention the size of the
goldfish,
> nor the size of the tank. Adult goldfish require approximately 30
> gallons of water per fish to do well in an aquarium. Your
filtration,
> both mechanical and biological need to be top notch as goldfish are
> notoriously "dirty" fish. Their tank does not require a heater, room
> temperature should be more than sufficient for them to do well.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of momofholly2002
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 3:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP PLEASE
>
> I noticed Ich on my fancy gold fish 2 days ago I started using "Ich-
> Attack" by Kordon. My fish look really really bad today. All but
> three of them are just lying on the bottom of the tank.
>
> I have removed all charcoal filtration and did the water changes as
> stated even raised the temp.. I'm desperate here I don't want to
> loose my fish and I'll do anything to help them.
>
> Would it help if I move the fish to another tank, clean the one
that
> they are in top to bottom?
>
> My water levels were great all most perfect before this now I'm
afraid
> to test them.
> What should I do?
>





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19388 From: momofholly2002 Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
After doing the 50% water change and adding the salt is it OK now to
use the activated charcoal and to put my filters back in. Also with
the temp at 72F should I add more air stones?




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Just do a 50% water change now and add the salt. Cleaning the tank
as you
> suggest will really do no good. So long as the cysts are on the
fish, they
> will grow and then split scattering ich all over the tank the fish
are in.
> You had mentioned raising the temperature in your tank in the
previous post,
> so one would presume you already had a heater in the tank. A small
rise in
> the temperature will speed the lifecycle of the ich somewhat, but
you cannot
> bring it up too much because the oxygen level will drop too far for
your
> fish, further distressing them.
>
> Your 55 is good enough for two of your fish as they grow, you'll
need to
> determine what you will do as the fish grow. You'll either need
several
> tanks, or something in the 300 gallon plus range to keep them all
together.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of momofholly2002
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 5:53 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP PLEASE
>
> Should I move the fish from my 55 gal. to a 40 gal. and do a total
> water change now? then back to the 55 with some of the "old"
water?
> Also adding the salt and cleaning everything including the gravel?
> My fish are 3" being the largest and 1 1/2" being the smallest. I
> have 12 total 6 of them are young lion heads (their heads are just
> starting), 2 bubble cheek, 1 bubble eye, 2 black moore. I am
> runniing 4 air stones now and 2 filtration systems that are good
for
> a 40 gal. tank each. Do I need more filtration or air stones? My
> water temp is usually around 70 F. Should I add a heater?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Ich is a tough on in goldfish. They have a high oxygen
requirement
> and
> > when you raise the temperature, water will hold less oxygen.
> Goldfish
> > are temperate water fish. They do best when the water temperature
> is in
> > the 60's F. The usual treatment for ich is to raise the water
> > temperature to the mid 80's and add salt to the water. This
speeds
> up
> > the lifecycle of the organism, and the only real chance you have
to
> kill
> > the organism is when it is in a free swimming stage looking for a
> host.
> >
> > What you should do is to immediately add an airstone or two to
try
> to
> > saturate the water with oxygen to help the goldfish. I'd
> discontinue the
> > use of Ich Attack as that seems to be a general tonic rather than
a
> > specific cure, and add three teaspoons of salt per each 5 gallons
of
> > water. You can use table salt if need be, but get yourself over
to
> the
> > grocery store and buy some kosher or canning salt when you can to
> use in
> > your aquarium (you can also use that as table salt, but it may
not
> be as
> > free flowing as normal table salt since these types of salt do not
> > contain anti-caking agents). Bring down your temperature to
> somewhere in
> > the 75 degree range. When you do your normal water change, add
salt
> at
> > the same rate to compensate for the removal of it with the water.
> Once
> > the ich has run its course, regular water changes will eventually
> remove
> > the salt from the water.
> >
> > Instead of the normal week to 10 days to remove the infestation,
> you may
> > be looking at two to three weeks, but this should help you remove
> the
> > ich from the environment better than the course you are now on.
> Keep in
> > mind that ich is ever present in an aquatic environment. The
> onslaught
> > of the parasite that you have experienced was caused by something
> that
> > changed in the environment. You do not mention the size of the
> goldfish,
> > nor the size of the tank. Adult goldfish require approximately 30
> > gallons of water per fish to do well in an aquarium. Your
> filtration,
> > both mechanical and biological need to be top notch as goldfish
are
> > notoriously "dirty" fish. Their tank does not require a heater,
room
> > temperature should be more than sufficient for them to do well.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of momofholly2002
> > Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 3:24 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP PLEASE
> >
> > I noticed Ich on my fancy gold fish 2 days ago I started
using "Ich-
> > Attack" by Kordon. My fish look really really bad today. All
but
> > three of them are just lying on the bottom of the tank.
> >
> > I have removed all charcoal filtration and did the water changes
as
> > stated even raised the temp.. I'm desperate here I don't want to
> > loose my fish and I'll do anything to help them.
> >
> > Would it help if I move the fish to another tank, clean the one
> that
> > they are in top to bottom?
> >
> > My water levels were great all most perfect before this now I'm
> afraid
> > to test them.
> > What should I do?
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19389 From: AquaticLife Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Important Message About Bouncing Memberships - THIS COULD BE YOU!
ATTENTION ALL MEMBERS:

Since October 20th and up to the present, Yahoo! has had a problem with
all Yahoo! accounts and sbcglobal.net accounts.

Because of this, many of our members with those email addresses are now
hard bouncing.

You may have noticed that the activity on our group has
been slow in the past weeks because of this problem. Our bouncing
membership list is more than five times what it was seven days ago.

Please check all of your Yahoo! Accounts and make sure they are
active. If they are not, please re-activate them, according to the
instructions below.

If you know anyone with a Yahoo Account, please inform this of this
problem. Reactivating these accounts could take days.

Please spread the word, as this has affected all other Yahoo! Groups
Worldwide.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR REACTIVATING YOUR YAHOO! ACCOUNT

1. Sign into Yahoo! Groups by going to:
http://groups. yahoo.com <http://groups.yahoo.com/>

2. Click on the "Manage" link next to My Groups.

3. An alert message will be displayed at the top of the page. Click
on the "Go to My Email Preferences" link.

Note: If you do not see an alert message, then none of your accounts are
bouncing.

4. Click on the "Unbounce" link next to the account that has a
bouncing status.

5. A reactivation request will be sent to your bounced email
address. Please check your email and follow the instructions in the
message.

Yahoo! Groups includes a history of bounces, including the last
bounced message, in your My Email preferences page. To determine why
your account was bouncing, you have to click on the "Show History" link
next to your account.

Yahoo! Groups stores the reason for the most recent bounced message in
this section of their member profile.


Please note that these error messages you see in your Profile Bounce Log
are the return messages Yahoo! receives from your email provider. These
are not Yahoo! Groups messages. You should contact your email provider
for more information regarding the errors.

Bouncing members put a strain on Yahoo!'s servers. Therefore, we do our
best to try to keep the number of bouncing memberships as low as
possible.
After 3 reactivation requests have ben sent unsuccesfully, those members
are removed.


Thanks for your help and attention to this matter.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19390 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Plant care for Jungle Val
Has anyone had experience w/ Jungle Val? I purchased quite a bit
tonight but I can't seem to find anything regarding how to plant
(shallow vs deep, bury the crown/expose the crown, etc.).

The only thing I can find is that it gets long and turns brown & yucky
when clipped. Is there a better way to clip it when it gets too long?

So basically:
How should it be planted?
How should I trim it back when it gets too long?

Thanks a bunch,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19391 From: David Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Designer Aquariums
Hi, my name is David. I am with ATM, Acrylic Tank Manufacturers in
Las Vegas. We design, build, and install custom acrylic aquariums all
over the world. Any size and shape you want. No project is too small
or to big. Visit www.acrylicaquariums.com and www.ATMexhibits.com to
see our work, and build your aquarium online.

Call me for direct orders. I ship anywhere in the world.

David-816-352-7008

or email at fishdudedave@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19392 From: Aaron Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: Designer Aquariums
Monster Garage, oh yeah I saw it, good stuff

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "David" <fishdudedave@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, my name is David. I am with ATM, Acrylic Tank Manufacturers in
> Las Vegas. We design, build, and install custom acrylic aquariums
all
> over the world. Any size and shape you want. No project is too
small
> or to big. Visit www.acrylicaquariums.com and www.ATMexhibits.com
to
> see our work, and build your aquarium online.
>
> Call me for direct orders. I ship anywhere in the world.
>
> David-816-352-7008
>
> or email at fishdudedave@...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19393 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Yes, you should have been filtering right along. I am one of those who only uses activated carbon if there is a reason to do so. Reading the product data sheet, it appears that the carbon will remove the ingredients, or at least some of them, from the water. Thus, the use of activated carbon for a week or so would be indicated here. After that, I'd discontinue the use of the carbon until there is another indication it should be used.

You noted that you already had 4 airstones, I believe, in a previous post. This should be more than sufficient. Just make sure they are not roiling up the water too much.

I'd aim for 75° for the water temperature, but keep an eye on the fish. If they seem to be having a problem with it, drop it down a degree or two. Remember the heat is not an essential part of the cure, it just increases the speed of the life cycle of the ich so the treatment can end sooner.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of momofholly2002
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 7:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP PLEASE

After doing the 50% water change and adding the salt is it OK now to
use the activated charcoal and to put my filters back in. Also with
the temp at 72F should I add more air stones?




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Just do a 50% water change now and add the salt. Cleaning the tank
as you
> suggest will really do no good. So long as the cysts are on the
fish, they
> will grow and then split scattering ich all over the tank the fish
are in.
> You had mentioned raising the temperature in your tank in the
previous post,
> so one would presume you already had a heater in the tank. A small
rise in
> the temperature will speed the lifecycle of the ich somewhat, but
you cannot
> bring it up too much because the oxygen level will drop too far for
your
> fish, further distressing them.
>
> Your 55 is good enough for two of your fish as they grow, you'll
need to
> determine what you will do as the fish grow. You'll either need
several
> tanks, or something in the 300 gallon plus range to keep them all
together.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of momofholly2002
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 5:53 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP PLEASE
>
> Should I move the fish from my 55 gal. to a 40 gal. and do a total
> water change now? then back to the 55 with some of the "old"
water?
> Also adding the salt and cleaning everything including the gravel?
> My fish are 3" being the largest and 1 1/2" being the smallest. I
> have 12 total 6 of them are young lion heads (their heads are just
> starting), 2 bubble cheek, 1 bubble eye, 2 black moore. I am
> runniing 4 air stones now and 2 filtration systems that are good
for
> a 40 gal. tank each. Do I need more filtration or air stones? My
> water temp is usually around 70 F. Should I add a heater?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Ich is a tough on in goldfish. They have a high oxygen
requirement
> and
> > when you raise the temperature, water will hold less oxygen.
> Goldfish
> > are temperate water fish. They do best when the water temperature
> is in
> > the 60's F. The usual treatment for ich is to raise the water
> > temperature to the mid 80's and add salt to the water. This
speeds
> up
> > the lifecycle of the organism, and the only real chance you have
to
> kill
> > the organism is when it is in a free swimming stage looking for a
> host.
> >
> > What you should do is to immediately add an airstone or two to
try
> to
> > saturate the water with oxygen to help the goldfish. I'd
> discontinue the
> > use of Ich Attack as that seems to be a general tonic rather than
a
> > specific cure, and add three teaspoons of salt per each 5 gallons
of
> > water. You can use table salt if need be, but get yourself over
to
> the
> > grocery store and buy some kosher or canning salt when you can to
> use in
> > your aquarium (you can also use that as table salt, but it may
not
> be as
> > free flowing as normal table salt since these types of salt do not
> > contain anti-caking agents). Bring down your temperature to
> somewhere in
> > the 75 degree range. When you do your normal water change, add
salt
> at
> > the same rate to compensate for the removal of it with the water.
> Once
> > the ich has run its course, regular water changes will eventually
> remove
> > the salt from the water.
> >
> > Instead of the normal week to 10 days to remove the infestation,
> you may
> > be looking at two to three weeks, but this should help you remove
> the
> > ich from the environment better than the course you are now on.
> Keep in
> > mind that ich is ever present in an aquatic environment. The
> onslaught
> > of the parasite that you have experienced was caused by something
> that
> > changed in the environment. You do not mention the size of the
> goldfish,
> > nor the size of the tank. Adult goldfish require approximately 30
> > gallons of water per fish to do well in an aquarium. Your
> filtration,
> > both mechanical and biological need to be top notch as goldfish
are
> > notoriously "dirty" fish. Their tank does not require a heater,
room
> > temperature should be more than sufficient for them to do well.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of momofholly2002
> > Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 3:24 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP PLEASE
> >
> > I noticed Ich on my fancy gold fish 2 days ago I started
using "Ich-
> > Attack" by Kordon. My fish look really really bad today. All
but
> > three of them are just lying on the bottom of the tank.
> >
> > I have removed all charcoal filtration and did the water changes
as
> > stated even raised the temp.. I'm desperate here I don't want to
> > loose my fish and I'll do anything to help them.
> >
> > Would it help if I move the fish to another tank, clean the one
> that
> > they are in top to bottom?
> >
> > My water levels were great all most perfect before this now I'm
> afraid
> > to test them.
> > What should I do?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19394 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: Important Message About Bouncing Memberships - THIS COULD BE YO
What is unusual here is not the mail bouncing, but that Yahoo! is admitting that it is bouncing. Periodically I have to follow the steps you give to remove the block on one list or another that I belong to as do others I know. There is also the problem of not receiving posts to the various lists, even though they are not being bounced, but just plain not delivered.

I do think that this is a problem with Yahoo! As with this account, nothing should bounce, since if there is a problem with the main mail server sitting off to my right here, it will go to the backup server at a hosting facility. There is a little twist here, since various of the Yahoo! Mail servers do end on block lists which are used by myself and many others to ease the amount of spam that passes through our servers. It is not by accident Yahoo! Mail servers end up on these lists. They are used to send spam by various individuals. Yahoo! Does act fairly quickly to remove the servers from the block lists, since none seem to remain on any particular list for more than a day or two, but that can be cause to miss a lot of messages.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of AquaticLife
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 8:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Important Message About Bouncing Memberships - THIS COULD BE YOU!


ATTENTION ALL MEMBERS:

Since October 20th and up to the present, Yahoo! has had a problem with
all Yahoo! accounts and sbcglobal.net accounts.

Because of this, many of our members with those email addresses are now
hard bouncing.

You may have noticed that the activity on our group has
been slow in the past weeks because of this problem. Our bouncing
membership list is more than five times what it was seven days ago.

Please check all of your Yahoo! Accounts and make sure they are
active. If they are not, please re-activate them, according to the
instructions below.

If you know anyone with a Yahoo Account, please inform this of this
problem. Reactivating these accounts could take days.

Please spread the word, as this has affected all other Yahoo! Groups
Worldwide.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR REACTIVATING YOUR YAHOO! ACCOUNT

1. Sign into Yahoo! Groups by going to:
http://groups. yahoo.com <http://groups.yahoo.com/>

2. Click on the "Manage" link next to My Groups.

3. An alert message will be displayed at the top of the page. Click
on the "Go to My Email Preferences" link.

Note: If you do not see an alert message, then none of your accounts are
bouncing.

4. Click on the "Unbounce" link next to the account that has a
bouncing status.

5. A reactivation request will be sent to your bounced email
address. Please check your email and follow the instructions in the
message.

Yahoo! Groups includes a history of bounces, including the last
bounced message, in your My Email preferences page. To determine why
your account was bouncing, you have to click on the "Show History" link
next to your account.

Yahoo! Groups stores the reason for the most recent bounced message in
this section of their member profile.


Please note that these error messages you see in your Profile Bounce Log
are the return messages Yahoo! receives from your email provider. These
are not Yahoo! Groups messages. You should contact your email provider
for more information regarding the errors.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19395 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: Plant care for Jungle Val
Unless you have a very large tank, jungle val is a poor choice. The
leaves can grow in excess of 6 feet. When they reach the surface of the
water, they will grow and cover the top of the water. It is a relatively
undemanding plant. Plant by covering the roots to the crown.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 8:49 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plant care for Jungle Val

Has anyone had experience w/ Jungle Val? I purchased quite a bit
tonight but I can't seem to find anything regarding how to plant
(shallow vs deep, bury the crown/expose the crown, etc.).

The only thing I can find is that it gets long and turns brown & yucky
when clipped. Is there a better way to clip it when it gets too long?

So basically:
How should it be planted?
How should I trim it back when it gets too long?

Thanks a bunch,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19396 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 10/28/2006
Subject: Re: siphon tools
When I did use my mouth to siphon (YUCK!) I used a regular garden hose and
kept my fingers over the hole to adjust the strength of the suck. I was not
able to get too close to the sand though because it would suck it up. Though
close enough, it really cleaned the tank well enough. I get paid at the
beginning of the month. I am going to get an battery operated one, and buy some
extra tubing at my local pet store to extend it off my porch. I don't use my sink
to siphon. Only to fill.
We will see how it will work out.

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19397 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Plant care for Jungle Val
I had planned to cut it once it gets too long so as not to let it cover
the waters’ surface. Is that not OK? Is my inexperience showing? =)

Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plant care for Jungle Val

Unless you have a very large tank, jungle val is a poor choice. The
leaves can grow in excess of 6 feet. When they reach the surface of the
water, they will grow and cover the top of the water. It is a relatively
undemanding plant. Plant by covering the roots to the crown.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 8:49 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plant care for Jungle Val

Has anyone had experience w/ Jungle Val? I purchased quite a bit
tonight but I can't seem to find anything regarding how to plant
(shallow vs deep, bury the crown/expose the crown, etc.).

The only thing I can find is that it gets long and turns brown & yucky
when clipped. Is there a better way to clip it when it gets too long?

So basically:
How should it be planted?
How should I trim it back when it gets too long?

Thanks a bunch,
Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19398 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Plant care for Jungle Val
HI,

Well I cut my vallisneria back and have had no trouble in doing that. It does get very long, so what else is there to do. My vallisneria did not die back or go all brown or anything, I noticed it did grow again and promote more growth from bottom. But it may well be diffeerent from tank to tank, as I have very good luck with grasses.

I also feed the plants, seachem excel, seachem and seachem iron and that does wonders for plants. In fact my plants grow so far I have to give them or throw them away allot of the time. So as I see it, it does not harm the vallisneria to cut it back.

Just my thoughts on this,

Ivan
South Dakota
AquaticElf@...
--------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 7:27 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plant care for Jungle Val


I had planned to cut it once it gets too long so as not to let it cover
the waters' surface. Is that not OK? Is my inexperience showing? =)

Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plant care for Jungle Val

Unless you have a very large tank, jungle val is a poor choice. The
leaves can grow in excess of 6 feet. When they reach the surface of the
water, they will grow and cover the top of the water. It is a relatively
undemanding plant. Plant by covering the roots to the crown.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 8:49 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plant care for Jungle Val

Has anyone had experience w/ Jungle Val? I purchased quite a bit
tonight but I can't seem to find anything regarding how to plant
(shallow vs deep, bury the crown/expose the crown, etc.).

The only thing I can find is that it gets long and turns brown & yucky
when clipped. Is there a better way to clip it when it gets too long?

So basically:
How should it be planted?
How should I trim it back when it gets too long?

Thanks a bunch,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19399 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Plant care for Jungle Val
Contrary to Ivan's experience, I have not had good luck in trimming the
leaves back when I had it in an aquarium. When in the pond, it did very
well, but I did not have to curt back the leaves at all, but it did not
over-winter, though that winter, as I recall, was a harder than normal
winter.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 8:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plant care for Jungle Val

I had planned to cut it once it gets too long so as not to let it cover
the waters' surface. Is that not OK? Is my inexperience showing? =)

Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plant care for Jungle Val

Unless you have a very large tank, jungle val is a poor choice. The
leaves can grow in excess of 6 feet. When they reach the surface of the
water, they will grow and cover the top of the water. It is a relatively
undemanding plant. Plant by covering the roots to the crown.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 8:49 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plant care for Jungle Val

Has anyone had experience w/ Jungle Val? I purchased quite a bit
tonight but I can't seem to find anything regarding how to plant
(shallow vs deep, bury the crown/expose the crown, etc.).

The only thing I can find is that it gets long and turns brown & yucky
when clipped. Is there a better way to clip it when it gets too long?

So basically:
How should it be planted?
How should I trim it back when it gets too long?

Thanks a bunch,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19400 From: snerticus Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Plants with high pH requirements
...or at least will tolerate high pH.

Hey everyone. As you may or may not know, I have a freshwater tank
with crushed coral as a substrate and use it mainly for inverts,
although I also have a clown pleco and an otocinclus in there as well.
The fish are doing well and are little pigs (and the clown pleco has
such a personality!... he is so ornery towards any living thing in that
tank! He almost seems to provoke the shrimp into coming near him so he
can scare the living daylights out of them!), and the inverts are doing
better than I expected, since this was basically an experiment tank for
the inverts. I have plants in the tank and all were doing well until I
noticed one of them (I don't remember what is is) started dying. I'm
presuming because of the high pH. The christmas moss is doing well and
a tiny forground creeping plant is doing okay as well. A fern I put in
from another tank that was actually growing new shoots has not fared
well at all, and is marginally okay. I'm sure this is because of the
high pH. I keep it in the tank, however, because my Amano shrimp love
to hang out on it's fronds. I do have a cheap CO2 reactor in there
mainly to lower the pH, but also for the benefit of the plants, which
in turn benefit my shrimp and other critters.

To any plant people out there... are there any plants that tolerate a
higher pH? Besides the mangrove, which I'm not apt to plant in my 5
gallon tanks because of it's potential "hugeness", are there any that
will survive a pH of approximately 7.6 and occasionally higher when I
do maintenance on my CO2 reactor?

I'm really surprised at the health of my inverts! (I'm sure I just
jinxed myself saying that.) The ghost shrimp have survived for months
with no deaths at all and even had a female hatch out about 15 babies,
although after about 5 days I didn't see the babies anymore. I took
lots of pics of the baby ghost shrimp though. They basically free-swim
in the aquarium until (I am told) their first molt, when they settle on
the bottom like an adult.

Anyway, any info on high pH-tolerant plants would be appreciated, even
if it's just a point to a website I can go to.

Thanks,
Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19401 From: Patricia M Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Injured cory
Yeah, I had a Skunk Botia once that tourtured and killed a couple Columbian Tetras He wasn't very big and I'd been told he'd do fine in a tank with tetras. Sigh. Got rid of him quick.

Cory's can be pretty tough, the salt idea should help a lot.
Patricia

----- Original Message ----
From: "reskie@cogeco. ca" <reskie@cogeco. ca>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 5:45:00 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Injured cory

I got some skunk botias last week and in the few days they were in my 16gal tank, they managed to terrorize my pygmy gouramis and seriously injure one of my corys. His tail fins were nipped almost right down to the body. I took the psycho loaches back to the store and quarantined the cory in water with maracyn. Then his fins started to get fuzzy. I nervously added some fungus guard to the mix but it the 2 days since it seems to be getting worse... He also has no interest in food. Does anyone have further suggestions for meds or should I wait and see if the current ones kick in...or put him to sleep... :-( Sounds dumb but he's a neat little guy and I don't want him to suffer...
Carmen



---------------------------------
We have the perfect Group for you. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo! Groups.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19402 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Plants with high pH requirements
Snert

Some of the plants that I have found useful in your situation include
Hydrilla, Bacopa monniera, giant vallisneria, watersprite and Java fern.
Waterchanges regularly give the plants a boost as well as the fish.

Cheers

Bruce (Hansen)

ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld.org.au/
----- Original Message -----
From: "snerticus" <Snerticus@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 1:25 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plants with high pH requirements


...or at least will tolerate high pH.

Hey everyone. As you may or may not know, I have a freshwater tank
with crushed coral as a substrate and use it mainly for inverts,
although I also have a clown pleco and an otocinclus in there as well.
The fish are doing well and are little pigs (and the clown pleco has
such a personality!... he is so ornery towards any living thing in that
tank! He almost seems to provoke the shrimp into coming near him so he
can scare the living daylights out of them!), and the inverts are doing
better than I expected, since this was basically an experiment tank for
the inverts. I have plants in the tank and all were doing well until I
noticed one of them (I don't remember what is is) started dying. I'm
presuming because of the high pH. The christmas moss is doing well and
a tiny forground creeping plant is doing okay as well. A fern I put in
from another tank that was actually growing new shoots has not fared
well at all, and is marginally okay. I'm sure this is because of the
high pH. I keep it in the tank, however, because my Amano shrimp love
to hang out on it's fronds. I do have a cheap CO2 reactor in there
mainly to lower the pH, but also for the benefit of the plants, which
in turn benefit my shrimp and other critters.

To any plant people out there... are there any plants that tolerate a
higher pH? Besides the mangrove, which I'm not apt to plant in my 5
gallon tanks because of it's potential "hugeness", are there any that
will survive a pH of approximately 7.6 and occasionally higher when I
do maintenance on my CO2 reactor?

I'm really surprised at the health of my inverts! (I'm sure I just
jinxed myself saying that.) The ghost shrimp have survived for months
with no deaths at all and even had a female hatch out about 15 babies,
although after about 5 days I didn't see the babies anymore. I took
lots of pics of the baby ghost shrimp though. They basically free-swim
in the aquarium until (I am told) their first molt, when they settle on
the bottom like an adult.

Anyway, any info on high pH-tolerant plants would be appreciated, even
if it's just a point to a website I can go to.

Thanks,
Snert




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19403 From: momofholly2002 Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: HELP PLEASE
Thank you for all of the information and help.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Yes, you should have been filtering right along. I am one of those
who only uses activated carbon if there is a reason to do so.
Reading the product data sheet, it appears that the carbon will
remove the ingredients, or at least some of them, from the water.
Thus, the use of activated carbon for a week or so would be
indicated here. After that, I'd discontinue the use of the carbon
until there is another indication it should be used.
>
> You noted that you already had 4 airstones, I believe, in a
previous post. This should be more than sufficient. Just make sure
they are not roiling up the water too much.
>
> I'd aim for 75° for the water temperature, but keep an eye on the
fish. If they seem to be having a problem with it, drop it down a
degree or two. Remember the heat is not an essential part of the
cure, it just increases the speed of the life cycle of the ich so
the treatment can end sooner.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of momofholly2002
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 7:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP PLEASE
>
> After doing the 50% water change and adding the salt is it OK now
to
> use the activated charcoal and to put my filters back in. Also
with
> the temp at 72F should I add more air stones?
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Just do a 50% water change now and add the salt. Cleaning the
tank
> as you
> > suggest will really do no good. So long as the cysts are on the
> fish, they
> > will grow and then split scattering ich all over the tank the
fish
> are in.
> > You had mentioned raising the temperature in your tank in the
> previous post,
> > so one would presume you already had a heater in the tank. A
small
> rise in
> > the temperature will speed the lifecycle of the ich somewhat,
but
> you cannot
> > bring it up too much because the oxygen level will drop too far
for
> your
> > fish, further distressing them.
> >
> > Your 55 is good enough for two of your fish as they grow, you'll
> need to
> > determine what you will do as the fish grow. You'll either need
> several
> > tanks, or something in the 300 gallon plus range to keep them
all
> together.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of momofholly2002
> > Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 5:53 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP PLEASE
> >
> > Should I move the fish from my 55 gal. to a 40 gal. and do a
total
> > water change now? then back to the 55 with some of the "old"
> water?
> > Also adding the salt and cleaning everything including the
gravel?
> > My fish are 3" being the largest and 1 1/2" being the smallest.
I
> > have 12 total 6 of them are young lion heads (their heads are
just
> > starting), 2 bubble cheek, 1 bubble eye, 2 black moore. I am
> > runniing 4 air stones now and 2 filtration systems that are good
> for
> > a 40 gal. tank each. Do I need more filtration or air stones?
My
> > water temp is usually around 70 F. Should I add a heater?
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ich is a tough on in goldfish. They have a high oxygen
> requirement
> > and
> > > when you raise the temperature, water will hold less oxygen.
> > Goldfish
> > > are temperate water fish. They do best when the water
temperature
> > is in
> > > the 60's F. The usual treatment for ich is to raise the water
> > > temperature to the mid 80's and add salt to the water. This
> speeds
> > up
> > > the lifecycle of the organism, and the only real chance you
have
> to
> > kill
> > > the organism is when it is in a free swimming stage looking
for a
> > host.
> > >
> > > What you should do is to immediately add an airstone or two to
> try
> > to
> > > saturate the water with oxygen to help the goldfish. I'd
> > discontinue the
> > > use of Ich Attack as that seems to be a general tonic rather
than
> a
> > > specific cure, and add three teaspoons of salt per each 5
gallons
> of
> > > water. You can use table salt if need be, but get yourself
over
> to
> > the
> > > grocery store and buy some kosher or canning salt when you can
to
> > use in
> > > your aquarium (you can also use that as table salt, but it may
> not
> > be as
> > > free flowing as normal table salt since these types of salt do
not
> > > contain anti-caking agents). Bring down your temperature to
> > somewhere in
> > > the 75 degree range. When you do your normal water change, add
> salt
> > at
> > > the same rate to compensate for the removal of it with the
water.
> > Once
> > > the ich has run its course, regular water changes will
eventually
> > remove
> > > the salt from the water.
> > >
> > > Instead of the normal week to 10 days to remove the
infestation,
> > you may
> > > be looking at two to three weeks, but this should help you
remove
> > the
> > > ich from the environment better than the course you are now
on.
> > Keep in
> > > mind that ich is ever present in an aquatic environment. The
> > onslaught
> > > of the parasite that you have experienced was caused by
something
> > that
> > > changed in the environment. You do not mention the size of the
> > goldfish,
> > > nor the size of the tank. Adult goldfish require approximately
30
> > > gallons of water per fish to do well in an aquarium. Your
> > filtration,
> > > both mechanical and biological need to be top notch as
goldfish
> are
> > > notoriously "dirty" fish. Their tank does not require a
heater,
> room
> > > temperature should be more than sufficient for them to do
well.
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of momofholly2002
> > > Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 3:24 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP PLEASE
> > >
> > > I noticed Ich on my fancy gold fish 2 days ago I started
> using "Ich-
> > > Attack" by Kordon. My fish look really really bad today. All
> but
> > > three of them are just lying on the bottom of the tank.
> > >
> > > I have removed all charcoal filtration and did the water
changes
> as
> > > stated even raised the temp.. I'm desperate here I don't want
to
> > > loose my fish and I'll do anything to help them.
> > >
> > > Would it help if I move the fish to another tank, clean the
one
> > that
> > > they are in top to bottom?
> > >
> > > My water levels were great all most perfect before this now
I'm
> > afraid
> > > to test them.
> > > What should I do?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19404 From: fyyr.rm Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Ok, so I really don't want to go and buy a load of plants and put them
in the substrate that the store tells me to without knowing at least a
little of what I am doing.
First off I am looking to plant a 10g (tank A) for Cherry Barbs,
Tetras (whatever the small glowing one are- can't remember the name
off the top of my head), and CoryDoras (I LOVE the pandas)... so mini
plants to go with mini fish
I am going to be getting a 29g tank (tank B) and would like to plant
that one as well for my Bettas (5 females, 1 male) and would like to
have snails with them. So lots of coverage and good hiding spaces.

So what kind of substrate would you suggest (economical - on a budget)
What kind of plants (easy to grow, low light, None or DYI CO2)
What size heater should I get
What kind of Filter do you suggest for tank A and tank B(economical,
but that said one that does a good job)
What kind of snails to buy (My LFS and LPS suggest Apple, but they
just get toooo big)
Pictures for ideas for aquascaping would be appreciated too :)
Thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19405 From: capetown60 Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: 30 gal tank lightsI
Hi name here is gary and have had tank set up for about 4months and
want to add plants . I have a hood and glass canopie over tank with a
single strip light with a two foot floresent bulb. bulb is coral life
but no other markings on it. I am wanting to get some plants for a
live bearer tank which currently has platys in it. Would like to use
plants that are easy to grow and would provide food and baby cover.
With that said do i need to add more strip lights or would a dual
strip light work ? Also i ve read were people are using various
numbers and kinds of bulbs for there plants. Iam getting really lost
at this point, any recommendations would be great thanks gary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19406 From: Aquatic Elf Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: 30 gal tank lightsI
Greetings to you,

I use two dual coral life T5 strip lights over my 29 gallon tank, which gives it 72 watts of lighting and my plants grow wonderfully. I can recommend these strip lights as they work well and the bulbs are not overly expensive to replace. So you may wish to look into these kinds of lights. they cost about $40.00 each depending on size and are worth the money I think. I got mine from www.bigalsonline.com and each dual strip puts out 36 watts of lighting.

I know allot of people go to great expensive for lighting, but I really do not thin you have to do that. My plants are beautiful, to the point I have to give many away or sell them or trade. I am thinking (dependening on water conditions and all) you should have the same good luck. One strip as you have is not near enought lighting for a 30 gallon tank and will limit you allot to the plants you may wish to have.

Hope it helps,

Ivan
South Dakota


----- Original Message -----
From: capetown60
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] 30 gal tank lightsI


Hi name here is gary and have had tank set up for about 4months and
want to add plants . I have a hood and glass canopie over tank with a
single strip light with a two foot floresent bulb. bulb is coral life
but no other markings on it. I am wanting to get some plants for a
live bearer tank which currently has platys in it. Would like to use
plants that are easy to grow and would provide food and baby cover.
With that said do i need to add more strip lights or would a dual
strip light work ? Also i ve read were people are using various
numbers and kinds of bulbs for there plants. Iam getting really lost
at this point, any recommendations would be great thanks gary





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19407 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
For heater it is 5 watts per gallon always. For a filter. A hang on the back would be nice for you. Its easy and sufficiant. It tells you on the pachage what size tank it would do. For the whisper filters it is the filter 10 and for the 29 its the filter 30. They have all kinds of freshwater snails where apple is the biggest and most expensive. Ramshorn are the most beautiul. Here is something to reference.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/scateg.cfm?pCatId=1075
Now as for the bettas the male can kill off the females if she's not ready to mate. One thing you can do is get a breeder tank that floats in the tank and when you see one of the females starting to build its nest then you can let him go into the main tank. As for plants this would help you.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/categ.cfm?pCatId=768 In the 10 gallon the microswords would be nice. Just click on the pics on these above sites to see full discriptions of each.


----- Original Message ----
From: fyyr.rm <fyyr@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 2:35:10 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie wanting to start a planted tank

Ok, so I really don't want to go and buy a load of plants and put them
in the substrate that the store tells me to without knowing at least a
little of what I am doing.
First off I am looking to plant a 10g (tank A) for Cherry Barbs,
Tetras (whatever the small glowing one are- can't remember the name
off the top of my head), and CoryDoras (I LOVE the pandas)... so mini
plants to go with mini fish
I am going to be getting a 29g tank (tank B) and would like to plant
that one as well for my Bettas (5 females, 1 male) and would like to
have snails with them. So lots of coverage and good hiding spaces.

So what kind of substrate would you suggest (economical - on a budget)
What kind of plants (easy to grow, low light, None or DYI CO2)
What size heater should I get
What kind of Filter do you suggest for tank A and tank B(economical,
but that said one that does a good job)
What kind of snails to buy (My LFS and LPS suggest Apple, but they
just get toooo big)
Pictures for ideas for aquascaping would be appreciated too :)
Thanks!






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19408 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/29/2006
Subject: Re: 30 gal tank lightsI
Floating plants are good but can be bothersome when they take over your tank. A nice thick bunch of anacharis, cabomba or wisteria in clumps and in the corners of the tank would help.


----- Original Message ----
From: capetown60 <capetown60@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 7:55:08 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] 30 gal tank lightsI

Hi name here is gary and have had tank set up for about 4months and
want to add plants . I have a hood and glass canopie over tank with a
single strip light with a two foot floresent bulb. bulb is coral life
but no other markings on it. I am wanting to get some plants for a
live bearer tank which currently has platys in it. Would like to use
plants that are easy to grow and would provide food and baby cover.
With that said do i need to add more strip lights or would a dual
strip light work ? Also i ve read were people are using various
numbers and kinds of bulbs for there plants. Iam getting really lost
at this point, any recommendations would be great thanks gary






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19409 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
I was under the impression that the male Betta builds the bubble nest.
Mike

In a message dated 10/29/2006 10:00:06 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jrreid3rd1@... writes:
One thing you can do is get a breeder tank that floats in the tank and when
you see one of the females starting to build its nest then you can let him go
into the main tank.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19410 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Yes the male does it female shows they are ready by acting the same way.


----- Original Message ----
From: "Deenerz@..." <Deenerz@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 2:58:34 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Newbie wanting to start a planted tank

I was under the impression that the male Betta builds the bubble nest.
Mike

In a message dated 10/29/2006 10:00:06 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jrreid3rd1@yahoo. com writes:
One thing you can do is get a breeder tank that floats in the tank and when
you see one of the females starting to build its nest then you can let him go
into the main tank.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19411 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Plant care for Jungle Val
Jungle vals will cover the top of the water, and that's not a bad
thing, it looks pretty neat. Instead of clipping, I recommend
thinning. Take an entire leaf from near the bulb once in a while. The
bulb should show its shoulders above the substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19412 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
My best results have been from mixing laterite, peat moss, a little
vermiculite with water till doughy, then topping with gravel. IF you
want to control the growth of spreading plants, like the mondo grass,
instead of putting the substrate all over, just tuck it into pockets
and hill the gravel over it. The mystery snails do quite well for us.
They come in gold, white, blue, and black, so they can add to the color
and look nice. I'm just using the regular filters that came with the
tanks, but I've added a sponge between the filter and output, so it
keeps bacteria in it, even when I change filters.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19413 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
It is the male that makes the nest.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 1:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Newbie wanting to start a planted tank

I was under the impression that the male Betta builds the bubble nest.
Mike

In a message dated 10/29/2006 10:00:06 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jrreid3rd1@yahoo. <mailto:jrreid3rd1%40yahoo.com> com writes:
One thing you can do is get a breeder tank that floats in the tank and
when
you see one of the females starting to build its nest then you can let
him go
into the main tank.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19414 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: 30 gal tank lightsI
With the single flourescent tube that comes with the tanks I have no
trouble with growing heavily planted tanks. My biggest plant killer
seemed to be the alkaline water I started with.

> Hi name here is gary and have had tank set up for about 4months and
> want to add plants . I have a hood and glass canopie over tank with a
> single strip light with a two foot floresent bulb. bulb is coral life
> but no other markings on it. I am wanting to get some plants for a
> live bearer tank which currently has platys in it. Would like to use
> plants that are easy to grow and would provide food and baby cover.
> With that said do i need to add more strip lights or would a dual
> strip light work ? Also i ve read were people are using various
> numbers and kinds of bulbs for there plants. Iam getting really lost
> at this point, any recommendations would be great thanks gary
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19415 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
I've never noticed my females bubbling. I just wait till they're big
and fat, and start showing their stripes
>
> Yes the male does it female shows they are ready by acting the same
way.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19416 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Erm...the betta male builds the bubble nest. And with bettas as with
many other living things, their personality has a lot to do with
whether or not they'll kill each other off. I've a betta pair that
will not be seperated, and she even helps him tend the nest. I've only
had one of those before, though. I've plenty of betta pairs that do a
lot of scrapping, but never go beyond nipped fins, and then there is
the male that killed the first female I introduced him to within a
minute, but took to the second female just fine. I've yet another betta
male that is terrified of females :o Just watch them when you put them
together, and don't leave them alone till the pecking order is
established. Females tend to live together in harmony, and siblings
can live together jsut fine. In fact, in my community tank, since
there are tons of other fish there, and loads of hiding places, I have
about five males, some unrelated, and four females doing just fine
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19417 From: snerticus Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Plants with high pH requirements
Thanks Bruce, I'll have to look into them. I forgot to mention that
a leaf of Java Fern from another tank came off, so I attached it to a
rock a few months ago and put it into the crushed coral tank as
another "experiment". It now has about 10 leaves to it, so I know it
does well in higher pH. But the others I need to look into and
hopefully get to make the tank a little more environmentally friendly
for my critters.

Thanks again!

Snert



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hansen" <toxotes@...>
wrote:
>
> Snert
>
> Some of the plants that I have found useful in your situation
include
> Hydrilla, Bacopa monniera, giant vallisneria, watersprite and Java
fern.
> Waterchanges regularly give the plants a boost as well as the fish.
>
> Cheers
>
> Bruce (Hansen)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19418 From: snerticus Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
When I bred bettas a few years ago, I never noticed the females bubble
at all, although sometimes in their jars they did, but you'd only see a
few on the surface. Not even worth mentioning, really. The males
always had bubbles in their jars and in the breeding tanks.

I miss my bettas, but not the care in cleaning those 100+ jars!

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> I've never noticed my females bubbling. I just wait till they're big
> and fat, and start showing their stripes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19419 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: I kill cory cats
I purchased 4 albino cories, quarantined them for about 1 ½ weeks, add
them to the tank they are to be in and two of them are now dead.

I witnessed one of them flipping about as he swam to the surface. As if
he could not keep his balance. When he tumbled back down to the bottom,
he had a hard time getting upright. Two hours later he was dead as was
another one.
What could that have been? He looked miserable. There are absolutely
no outward signs of anything going on bacterial wise and I treat for
parasites once the get into quarantine. I’m stumped.

I will certainly not be buying any more as I am sure to kill the poor
things. (Although I do have one spotted and one albino that I have had
for almost 7 months now, and they are FINE!) ????

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19420 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
I have had trouble lately with cories, which really bothered me, since
they have been my old standbyes. And the new cories I got were dying
quickly, while the old cories I have had for years seem just fine. I'm
thinking there's something wrong with the breeder, and have decided to
order my next batch of cories from a reputable breeder rather than just
buying them from petsmart.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19421 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Yah, the thought of cleaning jars was what kept me from trying to breed
for a long time. But now that I breed them, I don't use the jars. I
put them in community tanks and they do just fine. The ones I want to
breed I seperate out and place in 20-30 gallon containers. I don't
like the whole jar setup. Makes me feel claustrophobic.

> When I bred bettas a few years ago, I never noticed the females
bubble
> at all, although sometimes in their jars they did, but you'd only see
a
> few on the surface. Not even worth mentioning, really. The males
> always had bubbles in their jars and in the breeding tanks.
>
> I miss my bettas, but not the care in cleaning those 100+ jars!
>
> Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19422 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Well mine did that too. It killed its female. Then I read that if the female wasnt ready he would kill it too. Which make sense because the elephant seals are the same way. Anyways I use the breeder to seperate the male and got a few females then. Once one showed it was ready by maintain the nest also. I let him out and they breeded then. Maybe they are life partners? Thats why they stay together now?


----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 9:30:59 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank

Erm...the betta male builds the bubble nest. And with bettas as with
many other living things, their personality has a lot to do with
whether or not they'll kill each other off. I've a betta pair that
will not be seperated, and she even helps him tend the nest. I've only
had one of those before, though. I've plenty of betta pairs that do a
lot of scrapping, but never go beyond nipped fins, and then there is
the male that killed the first female I introduced him to within a
minute, but took to the second female just fine. I've yet another betta
male that is terrified of females :o Just watch them when you put them
together, and don't leave them alone till the pecking order is
established. Females tend to live together in harmony, and siblings
can live together jsut fine. In fact, in my community tank, since
there are tons of other fish there, and loads of hiding places, I have
about five males, some unrelated, and four females doing just fine






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19423 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
I don't think all of them are life partners, but I have had two pairs
that pine, refuse to eat, and cannot maintain without each other. So
maybe...who knows. I've got a couple of non ready females in tanks
with males right now, and they spar, but have no problems, really. I
like to remind myself that the bettas don't read the betta experts
books, so they don't always behave as expected.


> Well mine did that too. It killed its female. Then I read that if the
female wasnt ready he would kill it too. Which make sense because the
elephant seals are the same way. Anyways I use the breeder to seperate
the male and got a few females then. Once one showed it was ready by
maintain the nest also. I let him out and they breeded then. Maybe they
are life partners? Thats why they stay together now?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19424 From: Rick Rattie Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: 75 Gallon
I ended up buying a 75 gallon Acryllic 2nd hand many years ago. Had a lot of success with the system that I had set up..

Filtration:
2 u/g filters plates (did no completely cover the tanks bottom)
Canister filter (cannot remember the brand top of my head) came with a spray bar for the return of the clean water.
Buttlewand which was placed in front of the spray bar or directly above it.
The two intake tubes of the cannister filter was attached to the u/g uplift tubes (it was the old type u/g where the uplift tubes were narrow and it made a snug fit.

The tank was stocked all live plants no plastic. Water Sprite for floaters, Anubias, Madagascar Lace Plant, Java Moss, Java Fern. The Java Fern was planted in various spots on a large semi oval (A piece of driftwood thats upper end was a U shape) base. The driftwood also provided a haven for some of the other critters in the tank..

Elephant Noses,
Double-beak Elephant Nose
Baby Whales
Various plecostomuses
Various corydora catfish
Congo Tetras
Chinese HiFin Banded Sharks back when VERY VERY little was known about them.
Trichogaster trichopterus
Trichogaster leeri (Woke up one night to open the top of the tank to find a HUGE bubblenest and 100s of fry)
Trichogaster microlepis
Various Freshwater Shrimp (i started off with 4 of them and by the time I sold the tank and fish there was 5! so we may have had a breeding)

Rick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19425 From: hank voss Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I purchased 4 albino cories, quarantined them for about 1 ½ weeks,
add
> them to the tank they are to be in and two of them are now dead.
>
> I witnessed one of them flipping about as he swam to the surface.
As if
> he could not keep his balance. When he tumbled back down to the
bottom,
> he had a hard time getting upright. Two hours later he was dead
as was
> another one.
> What could that have been? He looked miserable. There are
absolutely
> no outward signs of anything going on bacterial wise and I treat
for
> parasites once the get into quarantine. I'm stumped.
>
> I will certainly not be buying any more as I am sure to kill the
poor
> things. (Although I do have one spotted and one albino that I
have had
> for almost 7 months now, and they are FINE!) ????
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
> ========================
Leslie:
When you got the corys did they put pure oxygen in the bag
when they sealed it?If so that could be your problem.Wholesalers
used to use pure oxygen to bag the fish but found that corys and
other labyrinth fish do not do well with that type of air.That might
be your problem.
Regards Hank



>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19426 From: hank voss Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@...> wrote:
>
> When I bred bettas a few years ago, I never noticed the females
bubble
> at all, although sometimes in their jars they did, but you'd only
see a
> few on the surface. Not even worth mentioning, really. The males
> always had bubbles in their jars and in the breeding tanks.
>
> I miss my bettas, but not the care in cleaning those 100+ jars!
> ==========================
>A lot of times a female betta will help in building a nest.Also every
once in a while youll get a female that will also put the eggs in the
nest with the male.Just a few bits of info.
Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19427 From: fyyr.rm Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
I'm good with the Betta stuff... have a breeding tanks setup and have
about 20 babies at the moment and my pair is ready to breed again...
however I have 5 other females that are not breeders and it looks like
they will do fine together in a Betta tank if I have the right setup
along with a male. So how bout some suggestions about the planted tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19428 From: Melissa Laing Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
How large is your tank? What do you have in there
that makes for good hiding spaces. I was planning on
using driftwood, plants and mini clay pots...

--- cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
wrote:

> Erm...the betta male builds the bubble nest. And
> with bettas as with
> many other living things, their personality has a
> lot to do with
> whether or not they'll kill each other off. I've a
> betta pair that
> will not be seperated, and she even helps him tend
> the nest. I've only
> had one of those before, though. I've plenty of
> betta pairs that do a
> lot of scrapping, but never go beyond nipped fins,
> and then there is
> the male that killed the first female I introduced
> him to within a
> minute, but took to the second female just fine.
> I've yet another betta
> male that is terrified of females :o Just watch
> them when you put them
> together, and don't leave them alone till the
> pecking order is
> established. Females tend to live together in
> harmony, and siblings
> can live together jsut fine. In fact, in my
> community tank, since
> there are tons of other fish there, and loads of
> hiding places, I have
> about five males, some unrelated, and four females
> doing just fine
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19429 From: Leslie Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Yes they did use pure oxygen. That would also help to explain their
spastic tumbling. Poor things!
I wonder if this means that the other 2 remaining are also going to
die off. Is there anything I can do to help them if we were to
assume that the oxygen is in fact the problem?

thanks,
Leslie
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I purchased 4 albino cories, quarantined them for about 1 ½
weeks,
> add
> > them to the tank they are to be in and two of them are now dead.
> >
> > I witnessed one of them flipping about as he swam to the
surface.
> As if
> > he could not keep his balance. When he tumbled back down to the
> bottom,
> > he had a hard time getting upright. Two hours later he was dead
> as was
> > another one.
> > What could that have been? He looked miserable. There are
> absolutely
> > no outward signs of anything going on bacterial wise and I treat
> for
> > parasites once the get into quarantine. I'm stumped.
> >
> > I will certainly not be buying any more as I am sure to kill the
> poor
> > things. (Although I do have one spotted and one albino that I
> have had
> > for almost 7 months now, and they are FINE!) ????
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Leslie
> > ========================
> Leslie:
> When you got the corys did they put pure oxygen in the bag
> when they sealed it?If so that could be your problem.Wholesalers
> used to use pure oxygen to bag the fish but found that corys and
> other labyrinth fish do not do well with that type of air.That
might
> be your problem.
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19430 From: Leslie Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Yes they did use pure oxygen. That would also help to explain their
spastic tumbling. Poor things!
I wonder if this means that the other 2 remaining are also going to
die off. Is there anything I can do to help them if we were to
assume that the oxygen is in fact the problem?

thanks,
Leslie
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I purchased 4 albino cories, quarantined them for about 1 ½
weeks,
> add
> > them to the tank they are to be in and two of them are now dead.
> >
> > I witnessed one of them flipping about as he swam to the
surface.
> As if
> > he could not keep his balance. When he tumbled back down to the
> bottom,
> > he had a hard time getting upright. Two hours later he was dead
> as was
> > another one.
> > What could that have been? He looked miserable. There are
> absolutely
> > no outward signs of anything going on bacterial wise and I treat
> for
> > parasites once the get into quarantine. I'm stumped.
> >
> > I will certainly not be buying any more as I am sure to kill the
> poor
> > things. (Although I do have one spotted and one albino that I
> have had
> > for almost 7 months now, and they are FINE!) ????
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Leslie
> > ========================
> Leslie:
> When you got the corys did they put pure oxygen in the bag
> when they sealed it?If so that could be your problem.Wholesalers
> used to use pure oxygen to bag the fish but found that corys and
> other labyrinth fish do not do well with that type of air.That
might
> be your problem.
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19431 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
Driftwood, rocks a couple of shells...etc...and floating plants are
important, too. IF they start to take over jsut scoop them out and put
them as soil covering on your houseplants :P The floating plants do a
lot to diffuse nipping and to provide cover and infusoria for fry in my
tanks. dwarf mondo grass grows high enough that the fish can get down
there and hide, or anchor themselves for a nap, as well. And I like to
plant my larger leaved plants next to driftwood curls or rock caves to
provide extra cover.
> How large is your tank? What do you have in there
> that makes for good hiding spaces. I was planning on
> using driftwood, plants and mini clay pots...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19432 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Cory Cats/ Pure Oxygen
I found this link w/ the following excerpt. I'll be taking into our LFS
as well as the larger pet chains to their "aquatic department." I guess
any surface breather would be subject to this. I never thought of it.
It amazes me sometimes at how plain things can be yet I never once even
thought of it.

Now that I might try this again, I guess I should just ask the seller to
bag them up with whatever air is in the bag then speed home.

"Regarding Handling:
As has been mentioned these fishes possess substantial fin spines in
their dorsal, pectoral and adipose fin anteriors. Substantial, and
painful to get punctured by... The pectoral fins can be locked into
position and along with the dorsal very frequently get hung up in
aquarium netting when moving Callichthyids... You can likely avoid the
hassle of cutting up your nets (don't pull on the fish!), by either
using a net to guide the intended catch into a plastic specimen
container underwater, or by utilizing a very fine meshed net (like the
ones used for straining out baby brine shrimp). Learned, practiced folks
in the trade even use just their bare hands.
One other pertinent note for folks in the industry re handling these
fishes, concerning their ancillary (bronchial and intestinal) breathing
mechanisms. Like labyrinth fishes (e.g. the Gouramis), the Callichthyids
should be "bagged" with half oxygen (at most) as they will damage
themselves from breathing a too-rich mixture if sealed in pure oxygen
and water."

The link is here, but the article is long.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/callichthyids.htm

If anyone has any others, please send it to me. Thanks!
Leslie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19433 From: hank voss Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Yes they did use pure oxygen. That would also help to explain their
> spastic tumbling. Poor things!
==============================
Leslie:
Just because they filled the bag with air does not mean
they are using pure oxygen.Most places stopped using that years ago
and use the 40-50% mixture,there may be some places that still use it
but they are rare.


> I wonder if this means that the other 2 remaining are also going to
> die off. Is there anything I can do to help them if we were to
> assume that the oxygen is in fact the problem?

The other 2 may be ok but there is nothing you can do for them except
keep your fingers crossed.The 100% doesnot kill them all but you get
a high mortality rate using it.
Hank


> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19434 From: hank voss Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Yes they did use pure oxygen. That would also help to explain their
> spastic tumbling. Poor things!
> I wonder if this means that the other 2 remaining are also going to
> die off. Is there anything I can do to help them if we were to
> assume that the oxygen is in fact the problem?
>
> thanks,
> Leslie
>
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

===========================
PS:
Another reason most places stopped using 100% is that its more
expensive than the mixture.
Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19435 From: Cory Walter Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
Not changing the subject, but going in a little different direction. I had 5 corys in a 30 gallon aquarium. We had them for quite a while, several months, when one morning I saw 4 of them going from bottom to top of the tank and back again, very erratic pattern, and then all of a sudden they turned over on their backs on the bottom and died. The 5th one never displayed any type of symptom and, in fact, is still with us. What could have caused this? Same thing, only a delayed reaction? Thanks, Cory

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19436 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
The guy said it was pure oxygen only because I asked him how long they
would be OK in the bags (I was making another pet store stop.) He said
it was pure oxygen and that they would be fine for 2 hours if need be.

I’ll do some calling here in the next day or so and ask for sure. I
know PetSmart said they use it pure but I don’t know about PetCo or our
LFS.

Is a mixture ok then? Some air, some oxygen?

Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 3:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I kill cory cats

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Yes they did use pure oxygen. That would also help to explain their
> spastic tumbling. Poor things!
==============================
Leslie:
Just because they filled the bag with air does not mean
they are using pure oxygen.Most places stopped using that years ago
and use the 40-50% mixture,there may be some places that still use it
but they are rare.

> I wonder if this means that the other 2 remaining are also going to
> die off. Is there anything I can do to help them if we were to
> assume that the oxygen is in fact the problem?

The other 2 may be ok but there is nothing you can do for them except
keep your fingers crossed.The 100% doesnot kill them all but you get
a high mortality rate using it.
Hank

> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19437 From: Chad Plum Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
When using pure oxygen the fish are good for over 24 hours. I work for Aquarium Adventure in Columbus Ohio and we only use pure oxygen in cases where people are headed out of town or have a longer trip then 3 hours. Unless they have a bucket with a lid and are traveling by car for the most part it was for airplane trips.

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: The guy said it was pure oxygen only because I asked him how long they
would be OK in the bags (I was making another pet store stop.) He said
it was pure oxygen and that they would be fine for 2 hours if need be.

I’ll do some calling here in the next day or so and ask for sure. I
know PetSmart said they use it pure but I don’t know about PetCo or our
LFS.

Is a mixture ok then? Some air, some oxygen?

Leslie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 3:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I kill cory cats

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Yes they did use pure oxygen. That would also help to explain their
> spastic tumbling. Poor things!
==============================
Leslie:
Just because they filled the bag with air does not mean
they are using pure oxygen.Most places stopped using that years ago
and use the 40-50% mixture,there may be some places that still use it
but they are rare.

> I wonder if this means that the other 2 remaining are also going to
> die off. Is there anything I can do to help them if we were to
> assume that the oxygen is in fact the problem?

The other 2 may be ok but there is nothing you can do for them except
keep your fingers crossed.The 100% doesnot kill them all but you get
a high mortality rate using it.
Hank

> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited Try it today.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19438 From: hank voss Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: I kill cory cats
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> The guy said it was pure oxygen only because I asked him how long
they
> would be OK in the bags (I was making another pet store stop.) He
said
> it was pure oxygen and that they would be fine for 2 hours if need
be.
>
> I'll do some calling here in the next day or so and ask for sure.
I
> know PetSmart said they use it pure but I don't know about PetCo
or our
> LFS.
>
> Is a mixture ok then? Some air, some oxygen?
>
> Leslie
======================
The mixture is fine.You dont even need it,just twisting the bag and
usind the air around you works fine fish will be ok in the bag for
many hours to days depending on how many fish are in the bag.The use
of oxygen was for shipping large amounts of fish mainly over long
distances.You can use pure oxygen for fish with no ill effect since
it will take awhile for it to diffuse into the water but for air
breathers the effect is instant as soon as they come up for air its
too rich for them.
Hank




> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19439 From: Patricia M Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie wanting to start a planted tank
I've had two or three femal betta living in my tanks togather with no problems until the last on I added. She even bit me when I put my hand in the tank. LOL Didn't kill my other girl but tore her fins up pretty good. She'll be living in a 1 gallon tank.

Patricia

````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
Posted by: "cynthia brennemann" brennewoman@... brennewomen
Mon Oct 30, 2006 6:44 am (PST) Females tend to live together in harmony, and siblings
can live together jsut fine. In fact, in my community tank, since
there are tons of other fish there, and loads of hiding places, I have
about five males, some unrelated, and four females doing just fine



---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19440 From: Ash Date: 10/30/2006
Subject: Plants in Sand?
Hi, i have had no plants in my tank for a long time due to the agressive nature of my oscars.
Since im getting rid of the oscars and going back to smaller fish, i was wondering if the sand substrate i currently have would still be appropriate.
since i will be planting the tank quite heavily, will sand smother the roots of the plants? or will i have trouble getting the plants to embedd in the sand?
id rather not have to go back to gravel...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19441 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Plants in Sand?
"will sand smother the roots of the plants?".
Yep: same principle as with potted houseplants. You
need to aerate the potting soil (perlite, clay
pebbles, tiny shards of broken clay pottery, spaghnum
moss, tiny wood chips, coarse sand, etc). If you fail
to include such organic materials the root system will
soon die off (suffocate) and that will be the end of
your pretty houseplant! Ditto for aquatic plants: the
sand in your tank is far, far to compact to provide
for adequate circulation around the roots. Try doing
what I sometimes do: plant the aquatic plant in a
container filled with gravel (plastic or glass - the
bottom quarter of a cola bottle, for example). You
can even drill some tiny holes in the container if you
wish). Sink the container into the sand substrate as
deeply you can, strategically place some rocks in the
foreground and viola!





--- Ash <ash_nug@...> wrote:

> Hi, i have had no plants in my tank for a long time
> due to the agressive nature of my oscars.
> Since im getting rid of the oscars and going back to
> smaller fish, i was wondering if the sand substrate
> i currently have would still be appropriate.
> since i will be planting the tank quite heavily,
> will sand smother the roots of the plants? or will i
> have trouble getting the plants to embedd in the
> sand?
> id rather not have to go back to gravel...
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19442 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Plants in Sand?
Sand alone is not ideal for the plants. Try using an undersubstrate of
laterite, vermiculite, and peat. Mix with enough water to make it
doughy, then top with sand and/or gravel and/or pebbles

> Hi, i have had no plants in my tank for a long time due to the
agressive nature of my oscars.
> Since im getting rid of the oscars and going back to smaller fish, i
was wondering if the sand substrate i currently have would still be
appropriate.
> since i will be planting the tank quite heavily, will sand smother
the roots of the plants? or will i have trouble getting the plants to
embedd in the sand?
> id rather not have to go back to gravel...
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19443 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Plants in Sand?
What I do is to have a layered substrate with a similar concept to Diana
Walstad. To avoid complication of disturbing the substrate when
planting/replanting, I use the same system as cut cocacola bottles or 5L
water bottles and lay the soil substrate in them and leave the rest of the
tank as gravel/sand. So if I want to uproot or remove a plant, I just have
to remove the plastic container which has the plant and it does not throw up
any gunk in the tank that a normal soil substrate would. Soil should be
topped up with sand to prevent it from escaping.



WRT Sand only substrate, if you have old mature sand then get some flourish
tabs and use these near the root feeders so they start growing faster then
the sand can crush them. Once the roots start growing at a good pace, sand
will not be able to crush them.

As for Stem feeders, Sand would be a problem as it would be able to crush
the stems before they can send out the roots. The only possibility could be
to not plant stem plants in pure sand but use lead plant weights to weigh
them down and let the plants start developing the root system that can be
embedded in the sand. Obviously not an easy thing to do if you plan on fast
growing plants but I would not dis-regard the substrate completely. You
could mix some coarser sand or very fine gravel into the existing one and
that can make it plant friendly so try things out before throwing the sand
away.



Nim



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Christa Ciglan
Sent: 31 October 2006 09:03
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Plants in Sand?



"will sand smother the roots of the plants?".
Yep: same principle as with potted houseplants. You
need to aerate the potting soil (perlite, clay
pebbles, tiny shards of broken clay pottery, spaghnum
moss, tiny wood chips, coarse sand, etc). If you fail
to include such organic materials the root system will
soon die off (suffocate) and that will be the end of
your pretty houseplant! Ditto for aquatic plants: the
sand in your tank is far, far to compact to provide
for adequate circulation around the roots. Try doing
what I sometimes do: plant the aquatic plant in a
container filled with gravel (plastic or glass - the
bottom quarter of a cola bottle, for example). You
can even drill some tiny holes in the container if you
wish). Sink the container into the sand substrate as
deeply you can, strategically place some rocks in the
foreground and viola!

--- Ash <ash_nug@bigpond. <mailto:ash_nug%40bigpond.net.au> net.au> wrote:

> Hi, i have had no plants in my tank for a long time
> due to the agressive nature of my oscars.
> Since im getting rid of the oscars and going back to
> smaller fish, i was wondering if the sand substrate
> i currently have would still be appropriate.
> since i will be planting the tank quite heavily,
> will sand smother the roots of the plants? or will i
> have trouble getting the plants to embedd in the
> sand?
> id rather not have to go back to gravel...
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19444 From: Tammy Schilling Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Shallow water plants, plants with turtles
Hi Everyone,

I'm Tammy and I don't have any fish, but I do have some reptiles and
amphibians, including some semi-aquatic ones. I was wondering if anyone
could suggest to me plants that are smallish (as opposed to those for
growing in an outdoors pond) that would be appropriate for an aquatic
turtle tank. I have a list of "toxic to turtle" plants, so I am able to
check anything you suggest against that (so don't worry about knowing
whether or not it's toxic for turtles, I can check it myself).
Specifically, what I need is small plants that either: float on the
surface, with maybe some root or such hanging down and/or plants that
grow from the bottom up, but don't get very tall or can be snipped off
when the tops get too high. Also, I can't use any plant that "has" to
stay anchored to one spot. Turtles love rearranging their habitat, so
any plant will inevitably get knocked around some.

It would be helpful if they were cheap plants, so that they can be
replaced when the turtles either destroy/eat them.

I'm just kinda tired of looking at their "bare" tank.

Thanks so much!

Tammy
--
http://whatiseeandhear.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19445 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Plants in Sand?
You should be fine with the sand.


----- Original Message ----
From: Ash <ash_nug@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 2:45:52 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plants in Sand?

Hi, i have had no plants in my tank for a long time due to the agressive nature of my oscars.
Since im getting rid of the oscars and going back to smaller fish, i was wondering if the sand substrate i currently have would still be appropriate.
since i will be planting the tank quite heavily, will sand smother the roots of the plants? or will i have trouble getting the plants to embedd in the sand?
id rather not have to go back to gravel...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19446 From: Joseph Reid Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Shallow water plants, plants with turtles
How about java fern?


----- Original Message ----
From: Tammy Schilling <magistra@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:41:34 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Shallow water plants, plants with turtles

Hi Everyone,

I'm Tammy and I don't have any fish, but I do have some reptiles and
amphibians, including some semi-aquatic ones. I was wondering if anyone
could suggest to me plants that are smallish (as opposed to those for
growing in an outdoors pond) that would be appropriate for an aquatic
turtle tank. I have a list of "toxic to turtle" plants, so I am able to
check anything you suggest against that (so don't worry about knowing
whether or not it's toxic for turtles, I can check it myself).
Specifically, what I need is small plants that either: float on the
surface, with maybe some root or such hanging down and/or plants that
grow from the bottom up, but don't get very tall or can be snipped off
when the tops get too high. Also, I can't use any plant that "has" to
stay anchored to one spot. Turtles love rearranging their habitat, so
any plant will inevitably get knocked around some.

It would be helpful if they were cheap plants, so that they can be
replaced when the turtles either destroy/eat them.

I'm just kinda tired of looking at their "bare" tank.

Thanks so much!

Tammy
--
http://whatiseeandh ear.blogspot. com






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19447 From: hank voss Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Shallow water plants, plants with turtles
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Tammy Schilling <magistra@...>
wrote:
> ========================
Tammy:
You can use Anacharis-Hornwort-Water Sprite.These are cheap to
replace just about all fish stores have them aand they are fast
growers.Ive had them with red ear sliders with no ill effects.
These are basicly floaters but you can plant them.Parrots Feather is
aquatic and bog plant(not so common anymore though)
Regards Hank



>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19448 From: fyyr.rm Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Bugs or Babies?
I brought home 6 new cherry barbs and a borneo sucker yesterday...
Today I see little tiny,itty bitty (looks like a piece of dust) white
things swimming around near the top of my tank. Then I noticed that
the Cherry Barbs are laying eggs. Are theses baby barbs? Or did I
bring home bugs too?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19449 From: hank voss Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "fyyr.rm" <fyyr@...> wrote:
> ======================
Not baby barbs they wont hatch out for about 36 hrs.Could be
infusoria -bacteria -mites -cyclops or a host of other things without
seeing them its hard to say what you have.They are more than likely
harmless.
Regards Hank



>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19450 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Plants in Sand?
It really depends on the type of sand you have been using. Some sand will compact and will smother the roots. In fact, it can get so dense that the roots cannot grow properly. On the other side, there is sand that does not compact very much, if at all. Then, you have everything in between.

If you wish to use the sane, but do not, or cannot, plant directly into the sand, you can still have plants in the tank. You can use plants that do not require a substrate for rooting, such as java fern, java moss, and any number of floating plants.

If these are not satisfactory choices for you, you can use potted plants--plants planted in a container. Since it is unlikely your substrate is deep enough, you will need to use other décor to hide the pots from the casual viewer. Using pieces of driftwood, rock work, or what ever you can devise to hide the pots rather than piling up the sand around the pots.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ash
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 2:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plants in Sand?

Hi, i have had no plants in my tank for a long time due to the agressive nature of my oscars.
Since im getting rid of the oscars and going back to smaller fish, i was wondering if the sand substrate i currently have would still be appropriate.
since i will be planting the tank quite heavily, will sand smother the roots of the plants? or will i have trouble getting the plants to embedd in the sand?
id rather not have to go back to gravel...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19451 From: Melissa Laing Date: 10/31/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Wow, so many of you must be laughing! HEHE I am now...
babies, HA! anyway looks like bugs. copepods maybe?
There are tuns of them... what now?

--- "fyyr.rm" <fyyr@...> wrote:

> I brought home 6 new cherry barbs and a borneo
> sucker yesterday...
> Today I see little tiny,itty bitty (looks like a
> piece of dust) white
> things swimming around near the top of my tank.
> Then I noticed that
> the Cherry Barbs are laying eggs. Are theses baby
> barbs? Or did I
> bring home bugs too?
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19452 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Catfish: most hardy varieties? I have a tough-as-nails banjo heade
The small tank is long and narrow, perhaps 10 gallons.
Any ideas for suitable tankmates? I mean REALLY
touch species, something really unusual like a
ropefish or another strange catfish?

Christa

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19453 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Shallow water plants, plants with turtles
A floating plant you might want to try is water sprite. Your turtles may also enjoy munching on it as well.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tammy Schilling
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:42 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Shallow water plants, plants with turtles

Hi Everyone,

I'm Tammy and I don't have any fish, but I do have some reptiles and
amphibians, including some semi-aquatic ones. I was wondering if anyone
could suggest to me plants that are smallish (as opposed to those for
growing in an outdoors pond) that would be appropriate for an aquatic
turtle tank. I have a list of "toxic to turtle" plants, so I am able to
check anything you suggest against that (so don't worry about knowing
whether or not it's toxic for turtles, I can check it myself).
Specifically, what I need is small plants that either: float on the
surface, with maybe some root or such hanging down and/or plants that
grow from the bottom up, but don't get very tall or can be snipped off
when the tops get too high. Also, I can't use any plant that "has" to
stay anchored to one spot. Turtles love rearranging their habitat, so
any plant will inevitably get knocked around some.

It would be helpful if they were cheap plants, so that they can be
replaced when the turtles either destroy/eat them.

I'm just kinda tired of looking at their "bare" tank.

Thanks so much!

Tammy
--
http://whatiseeandhear.blogspot.com



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19454 From: la_rmarquezjr Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Newbie here
Hello, everyone. I'm Rod from the Philippines. I'm an aquarium plant
collector. I'd like to make friends with fellow hobbyists here with
whom to exchange ideas and perhaps even plants.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19455 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
copepods are found in saltwater. But yes it sounds like you did pick up some bugs but like the one person said most likely not harmful just very annoying the only way to get rid of them is by netting them out or do water change.

PS don't worry about no one laughing at you

Melissa Laing <fyyr@...> wrote:
Wow, so many of you must be laughing! HEHE I am now...
babies, HA! anyway looks like bugs. copepods maybe?
There are tuns of them... what now?

--- "fyyr.rm" <fyyr@...> wrote:

> I brought home 6 new cherry barbs and a borneo
> sucker yesterday...
> Today I see little tiny,itty bitty (looks like a
> piece of dust) white
> things swimming around near the top of my tank.
> Then I noticed that
> the Cherry Barbs are laying eggs. Are theses baby
> barbs? Or did I
> bring home bugs too?
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19456 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Parasite dip
I have an angel w/ parasites but I can't treat her in the tank I want to
as she gets picked on by the other angels.
Can I do a parasite treatment as a dip and add her back into the main
tank after?
I have already treated her in a smaller quarantine w/ hex out and
jungles internal parasite guard, it didn't work.

I also have some prepared bloodworms w/ metronidazole & garlic guard
that I will feed her when it's ready.

Any other suggestions?

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19457 From: Subodh Chand Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: What is this fish?
I am attaching a photograph of a fish that I have procured recently. The dealer called it Parrot Fish. Can somebody tell me what breed is this fish. It is a freshwater fish. I have not found it in any book.
Subodh



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19458 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Hi All, and welcome to the group Rod!!
Hi all,

I hope that each and every one of you are having a great week
this week. Rod, welcome to the group. My name is Dawn. I have two
fish tanks. One is a five gallon tank and has four Apple Snails, one
Beta Fish and about ten Longhorn Snails. I also have Spina Bifida and
am in a wheelchair so, this hobby is my Mother's and mine together.
Oh lol, in the other tank there is only a Livebearer Fish and a few
plants. The other one has plants, a bridge and a few other things
that Fletcher, my Beta loves. This is a great group. I hope you
enjoy your time with us. Sincerely, Dawn :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19459 From: hank voss Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
> =======================
Leslie:
A dip treatment is only good for external parasites a dip
treatment might take several dips.What kind of parasites are we
talking about?In the olden days i used to use pot. permangante for a
dip.Usually you dip the fish for about a minute.The Jungle product you
used is for internal parasites so it would not work externally.
Hank


> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19460 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
is this a fresh water angel? if so you can add aquarium salt to the tank. if it is a saltwater angel you can do fresh water dips and see if that works

======================================================
Leslie & Dane Moore wrote:


I have an angel w/ parasites but I can't treat her in the tank I want to as she gets picked on by the other angels.

Can I do a parasite treatment as a dip and add her back into the main
tank after?

I have already treated her in a smaller quarantine w/ hex out and
jungles internal parasite guard, it didn't work.

I also have some prepared bloodworms w/ metronidazole & garlic guard
that I will feed her when it's ready.

Any other suggestions?

Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19461 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Another newbie question...

could they be itty bitty baby snails?

I found a snail just 5 mins ago on the glass...
and I didn't put him in there.
He is pretty small.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19462 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
don't see the Picture please send it

=============================================

Subodh Chand wrote:

I am attaching a photograph of a fish that I have procured recently. The dealer called it Parrot Fish. Can somebody tell me what breed is this fish. It is a freshwater fish. I have not found it in any book.
Subodh
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19463 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
are they swimming around or are they sitting on the glass

Melissa Laing <fyyr@...> wrote: Another newbie question...

could they be itty bitty baby snails?

I found a snail just 5 mins ago on the glass...
and I didn't put him in there.
He is pretty small.






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19464 From: Chris Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Please upload it to the group Photo pages:
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Subodh Chand <subodhchand@...>
wrote:
>
> I am attaching a photograph of a fish that I have procured recently.
The dealer called it Parrot Fish. Can somebody tell me what breed is
this fish. It is a freshwater fish. I have not found it in any book.
> Subodh
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19465 From: AquaticLife Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Important Message About Bouncing Memberships - THIS COULD BE YO
From: "dom ino"
"here is a message sent through email list managers
list. hth a little."


From: "Carole McManus" <mcmanus_carole@...>
To: EmailList-Managers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, October 26, 2006 10:45 AM
Subject: [EL-M] Recent Bouncing Messages

>
>
> ""I have some background info on bounces your group
members may have
> experienced in the last couple days.
>
> Because of a temporary glitch in the Yahoo! Mail
systems, mail to some
> users with yahoo.com and sbc.com email accounts
began bouncing. Our
> systems mischaracterized these bounces, resetting
the accounts to no
> longer receive group messages nor allow group
posts.
>
> We are working on identifying an automatic solution
to correct the
> problem. Users can manually remove themselves from
bouncing status by
> following these instructions:
> 1. Go to the My Groups page
(http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups).
> 2. Once you are signed in to Yahoo!, click the X on
the alert message.
> 3. Click the “unbounce” link next to your
email address.
> 4. Follow the reactivation instructions in the
message that will be
> emailed to you.
>
> If you are a moderator whose group members are
bouncing, go to
>
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/members/members-17.html
and
> follow the instructions for "Manual Reactivation".
>
> Let me know if there are any further questions.
>
> -- Carole McManus
> Yahoo! Groups and Yahoo! 360° Community Manager""

> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19466 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
It is not really a breed, it is a hybrid of Central American cichlids.
Unless it is the real Parrot cichlid, Hoplarchus psittacus.
http://www.tangledupincichlids.com/images/psitt1.jpg

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=Hoplarchus+psittacus&btnG=Search+Images

-----Original Message-----
From: subodhchand@...
To: aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 8:55 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] What is this fish?


I am attaching a photograph of a fish that I have procured recently. The dealer called it Parrot Fish. Can somebody tell me what breed is this fish. It is a freshwater fish. I have not found it in any book.
Subodh

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19467 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: new plants and driftwood
Hi All:

Boy, this list has been busy!

Leslie, good luck with your sick angel fish. I hope you can get him
well without anyone else becoming affected.

Steve, I have received the fish and plant atlas that you
recommended. Thank you for that and all of your worthy advice.

A few more questions, if I may. Today I bought some plants (swords,
I think) at Petco, along with a few pieces of small driftwood that
were in a tank with a few goldfish. Now I'm paranoid to put them
right into my 55 gallon. First, I soaked the driftwood in real hot
water for a few hours, than combined both the plants and the dw,
which are soaking in a bucket full of water. Any other advice before
putting them into the tank?

There was the biggest, most gorgeous 8" - 10" albino Oscar cichlid
who had been adopted by Petco and they were giving him away
free! Boy, don't I wish I could have him, but according to the petco
girl, he'd eat my tetras and corys. Darn!

Thanks.



Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19468 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
the bigger ones are on the glass (top of aquarium) and
the itty bitty ones are all over the top swimming
around... wish I could get a pic, but it is hard
enough to see them.

--- Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:

> are they swimming around or are they sitting on the
> glass
>
> Melissa Laing <fyyr@...> wrote:
> Another newbie question...
>
> could they be itty bitty baby snails?
>
> I found a snail just 5 mins ago on the glass...
> and I didn't put him in there.
> He is pretty small.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Low, Low, Low Rates! Check out Yahoo! Messenger's
> cheap PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19469 From: micheal03us Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: swim bladder disease
Is swim bladder disease contagious? I have lost another danio to it,
only this time around the bottom of his sides were little red spots
and his gills looked inflamed. He was doing all the stuff of swim
bladder disease so I don't know what else it could have been. But he's
the second one, I had a white cloud, about a month ago, who was fine
one night, seemed a little lazy then I found him dead in the plant the
next morning.
I had my water tested, it's all normal. I think I am doing everything
I should. I am trying to keep a good handle on the algea, plus I even
got another algea eater to help out. The only ones that are not
affected are the neons. Nothing seems to be bothering them at all.
They seem like they are a sturdier fish than the others, plus the
algea eaters nothing seems to bother them either.
I do water changes and put in the weekly chems and add them when I
do the water changes. I don't know what more I can do, any
suggestions? Karen.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19470 From: alleycat0352 Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puffer.
I bought a green puffer from Wal-mart in September to rid my 10 gallon
tank of a snail infestation. He went to town and cleaned up the snails.
(didn't want the snails, just bought a plant that was loaded with eggs).
I read too late about the possible aggressiveness of the puffer with
other fish, but am happy that he cohabitates with his fellow tank
mates. (2 rainbow sharks, 2 zebra danio, 2 head and tail lite tetras
and a little neon tetra.) After cleaning up the snails he was eating
dried krill and even got into some shrimp pellets. Up until last week
he was doing great. Now I don't know whats wrong. He swims around like
he has no appietite and blind as a bat. He runs into the sides of the
tank and the structures in the tank. When he is next to the side and I
put a finger up to the tank, he doesnt even flinch. My snails are back
(changed filters and it was loaded) and he doesnt even attempt to eat
them. Any help is welcome. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19471 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
what ever they are I wouldn't want them in my tank I would clean off the glass top and use a hose or vacuum and just suck them up to clean up before you get a mess in your tank

Melissa Laing <fyyr@...> wrote: the bigger ones are on the glass (top of aquarium) and
the itty bitty ones are all over the top swimming
around... wish I could get a pic, but it is hard
enough to see them.

--- Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:

> are they swimming around or are they sitting on the
> glass
>
> Melissa Laing <fyyr@...> wrote:
> Another newbie question...
>
> could they be itty bitty baby snails?
>
> I found a snail just 5 mins ago on the glass...
> and I didn't put him in there.
> He is pretty small.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Low, Low, Low Rates! Check out Yahoo! Messenger's
> cheap PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19472 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder disease
Karen the 2 kinds of fish you are talking about white cloud and zebra danio are fish that love to be in big groups also are very hardy fish but also one fish most fish stores get in so many at one time that you have to make sure they have been there for a while to check for disease just like this normally swim bladder is not contagious but is a very common disease in these fish. Curious what kind of chems are you putting in when you do water change. the only thing you should ever need is a decholr nothing else unless you like to add a little aquarium salt which is very healthy to keeping fishes slime coats going.

micheal03us <svensgirl@...> wrote: Is swim bladder disease contagious? I have lost another danio to it,
only this time around the bottom of his sides were little red spots
and his gills looked inflamed. He was doing all the stuff of swim
bladder disease so I don't know what else it could have been. But he's
the second one, I had a white cloud, about a month ago, who was fine
one night, seemed a little lazy then I found him dead in the plant the
next morning.
I had my water tested, it's all normal. I think I am doing everything
I should. I am trying to keep a good handle on the algea, plus I even
got another algea eater to help out. The only ones that are not
affected are the neons. Nothing seems to be bothering them at all.
They seem like they are a sturdier fish than the others, plus the
algea eaters nothing seems to bother them either.
I do water changes and put in the weekly chems and add them when I
do the water changes. I don't know what more I can do, any
suggestions? Karen.






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19473 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Ok so I found the pic you uploaded and yes they are Parrot Fish but they are Hybrids and at that it looks like you have ones that have dye in them to change there colors they are not really to cheap they run about $20 - $40 where I work

Chris <youcantryreachingme@...> wrote: Please upload it to the group Photo pages:
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Subodh Chand <subodhchand@...>
wrote:
>
> I am attaching a photograph of a fish that I have procured recently.
The dealer called it Parrot Fish. Can somebody tell me what breed is
this fish. It is a freshwater fish. I have not found it in any book.
> Subodh
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19474 From: Subodh Chand Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
It seems that this site does not forward the attached pictures. I have
uploaded the picture on the picture page under the album Subodh
Aquarium. Please have a look and let me know what it is.
Subodh

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Subodh Chand <subodhchand@...>
wrote:
>
> I am attaching a photograph of a fish that I have procured recently.
The dealer called it Parrot Fish. Can somebody tell me what breed is
this fish. It is a freshwater fish. I have not found it in any book.
> Subodh
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19475 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder disease
I have had fish with swim bladder. Its gas build up in the bladder that then
fills up and puts pressure on the spinal cord causing them to loose
equilibrium.
There are medications for it. but, basically it really needs to run its
course. There isn't really much you can do about it. There really isn't much that
you could have done to cause it. Sometimes fish eat something that does not
agree with them. But, its not contagious.
Here are some sites that were very helpful for me.
Good luck.
_http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm_
(http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm)
_http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/_ (http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/)

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19476 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
can you get a pic?


----- Original Message ----
From: fyyr.rm <fyyr@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 4:44:35 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bugs or Babies?

I brought home 6 new cherry barbs and a borneo sucker yesterday...
Today I see little tiny,itty bitty (looks like a piece of dust) white
things swimming around near the top of my tank. Then I noticed that
the Cherry Barbs are laying eggs. Are theses baby barbs? Or did I
bring home bugs too?






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19477 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Itll just be a food source for your fish. Also they would eat any excess waste and food in the water.


----- Original Message ----
From: Melissa Laing <fyyr@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 11:21:35 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Bugs or Babies?

Wow, so many of you must be laughing! HEHE I am now...
babies, HA! anyway looks like bugs. copepods maybe?
There are tuns of them... what now?

--- "fyyr.rm" <fyyr@rocketmail. com> wrote:

> I brought home 6 new cherry barbs and a borneo
> sucker yesterday...
> Today I see little tiny,itty bitty (looks like a
> piece of dust) white
> things swimming around near the top of my tank.
> Then I noticed that
> the Cherry Barbs are laying eggs. Are theses baby
> barbs? Or did I
> bring home bugs too?
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited
(http://music. yahoo.com/ unlimited)






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19478 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: Catfish: most hardy varieties? I have a tough-as-nails banjo h
Well with most of the unusual fish they get too big for a 10 gallon. Maybe you can look into cory catfish, butterfly fish, half beaks or a dwarf puffer?


----- Original Message ----
From: Christa Ciglan <cciglan@...>
To: aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2006 5:26:20 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Catfish: most hardy varieties? I have a tough-as-nails banjo headed catfish...

The small tank is long and narrow, perhaps 10 gallons.
Any ideas for suitable tankmates? I mean REALLY
touch species, something really unusual like a
ropefish or another strange catfish?

Christa

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19479 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
There is a fresh water Parrot Fish. It is new because it is a cross breed between two Cichlids.


----- Original Message ----
From: Chris <youcantryreachingme@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2006 6:11:33 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What is this fish?

Please upload it to the group Photo pages:
http://pets. ph.groups. yahoo.com/ group/AquaticLif e/photos

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Subodh Chand <subodhchand@ ...>
wrote:
>
> I am attaching a photograph of a fish that I have procured recently.
The dealer called it Parrot Fish. Can somebody tell me what breed is
this fish. It is a freshwater fish. I have not found it in any book.
> Subodh
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19480 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Yep its the Bloody Parrot Cichlid. Cross breed of two cichlids.


----- Original Message ----
From: Subodh Chand <subodhchand@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2006 10:29:33 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What is this fish?

It seems that this site does not forward the attached pictures. I have
uploaded the picture on the picture page under the album Subodh
Aquarium. Please have a look and let me know what it is.
Subodh

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Subodh Chand <subodhchand@ ...>
wrote:
>
> I am attaching a photograph of a fish that I have procured recently.
The dealer called it Parrot Fish. Can somebody tell me what breed is
this fish. It is a freshwater fish. I have not found it in any book.
> Subodh
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19481 From: Christine Fogu Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Live Plant Help
Hi all! I need help about selecting good aquairum live plants for a new freshwater tank I plan on setting up within a few months. It will either be a 55 gallon tank (if I get a 90 for my sharks) or a 20 gallon. The fish I choose to be in the tank are Haraquins and Ron Rio Tetras. Maybe some cories (I heard they would be ok with live plants - I don't know if I really trust that theory). I MAY also add some cardinals if I do the 55 gallon. I just bought a new light for my tank and recieved an Corallife Nutri Grow free for freshwater plants speciffically. So I already have a good light. I want a complete plants tank with varrying different iszes and kinds of plants. Any advice would be helpful. I've keep live plants before, but not for show, mainly just for my fish to slowly eat away. Thanks in advance!

Christine :)
www.kaworld.net


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19482 From: Christine Fogu Date: 11/1/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish?
Ahhh....you have an altered parrot fish. These fish are regular parrot fish who have been injected with a special dye to give them their unique color. They are still fairly new in the hobby and alot of pet stores don't even carry them. Where I worked as a fish specialist, we never carried the dyed variety. I refused to order them. When I was the assistant manager at Petland (never again) we sold them quite readily and each fish was $40. Just keep in mind, they may revert to their origional coloration eventually. The best way to help them maintain their dyed appearence is to feed them color enhanching foods and provide them with correct lighting.

And it seems my first post didn't go through. Here is a copy of my last post.

<<
Hi everyone! I am new to the group, but definately not new to the world of fish keeping. To fill you in: I've been keeping fish since i was 3, but have been in the Hobby for 13 years now. I have cared and maintained freshwater, saltwater, and brackish tanks both for fun and profesionally. Currently I own a 55 gallon semi aggerssive freshwater tank, a 20 gallon goldfish tank, and a 10 gallon Brackish African Chichlid Tank( they are all babies). I had to tear down my saltwater tank when I moved cross country. I will soon be setting up a live plant tank with a few small plant safe fish and a saltwater tank (as soon as I get my turtles out of my custom build saltwater tank!). I'm also looking to purchase a 90 gallon tank.

I am also writing a book on fish. It's comming along nicely, but now I do need some help. I have a section dedicated to fish species and variants. I am asking for anyone and everyone to summit pictures of fish. I WILL give everyone credit for their picture in the book. If you are interrested, please just email them at kaworldnet@... and provide me with the species and varient of fish you send and the name you want me to credit it to. I hope to have it published in a few months.

Thanks, I look forward to being part of the group! Fish are my passion, fish and mice. I will help everyone to the best of my ability as well. When I get a second I will summit some nice pics of my fish! Happy gish keeping!>>

Hope my advice helps! Have a great night and happy fish leeping!

Christine :)
www.kaworld.net



---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19483 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish? Man Made
The whole "Breed" is altered as they are not a True Parrot Fish. Hoplarchus
Psittacus is the True Parrot Cichlid. http://cichlidae.com/article.php?id=67

To quote an Ichthyologist
"I do feel, however, that it is unethical for pet stores to sell this fish
without informing a potential buyer that this is not a real cichlid.
Furthermore, while some parrot cichlids do breed successfully, many will not and I
receive many emails from people who are deeply saddened to see their fish try again
and again but with no success."
http://cichlidresearch.com/parrot.html

I am puzzled how feeding color enhancing food can keep a "Dyed" fish in the
same color? If that were the case would the color enhancing food not do the
same job as the "Dye"? Why would these fish need a needle jammed all over the
side of their bodies to get that color if food could do the same thing?

There are over 300 species of cichlids available to consumers, I don't
understand the need for hybrids or other dye injected fish.

MIke

In a message dated 11/1/2006 11:59:22 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kitty_animalworld@... writes:
The best way to help them maintain their dyed appearence is to feed them
color enhanching foods and provide them with correct lighting.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19484 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: What is this fish? Man Made
Despite my previous post(below) here is a website from more of an enthusiasts
point of view. http://www.geocities.com/parrotcichlid/breeding.html

Mike

In a message dated 11/2/2006 12:17:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Deenerz@... writes:
he whole "Breed" is altered as they are not a True Parrot Fish. Hoplarchus
Psittacus is the True Parrot Cichlid. http://cichlidae.com/article.php?id=67


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19485 From: clubsprint Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Acidity help please
G'day all
Just tested my Aquarium and the PH is really low (below 6.2 which is
what my test kit goes too). My fish for dummies says to add bi-card
soda which I have but it doesn't say how much. The tank takes about 33
litres so can someone tell me how much I should start to add. I have a
sick looking goldfish which is what intially alerted me to the
problem. The ammonia was also high. I've done a 1/3 water change and
added some conditioner. I'm going to re-test shortly but I think the
acidity will still be high. the aquarium has an under gravel filter.
the inhabitants are 1 goldfish and 6 danios.
Thanks for the help.
Mark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19486 From: Karen Millett Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder disease
I use a tap water conditioner when I do water changes because our water comes through a water conditioner. I use waste control, cycle for reducing fish loss and a particulate to help get rid of algea that gets into the rocks. Karen.

> From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...>
> Date: 2006/11/01 Wed PM 09:58:07 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] swim bladder disease
>
> Karen the 2 kinds of fish you are talking about white cloud and zebra danio are fish that love to be in big groups also are very hardy fish but also one fish most fish stores get in so many at one time that you have to make sure they have been there for a while to check for disease just like this normally swim bladder is not contagious but is a very common disease in these fish. Curious what kind of chems are you putting in when you do water change. the only thing you should ever need is a decholr nothing else unless you like to add a little aquarium salt which is very healthy to keeping fishes slime coats going.
>
> micheal03us <svensgirl@...> wrote: Is swim bladder disease contagious? I have lost another danio to it,
> only this time around the bottom of his sides were little red spots
> and his gills looked inflamed. He was doing all the stuff of swim
> bladder disease so I don't know what else it could have been. But he's
> the second one, I had a white cloud, about a month ago, who was fine
> one night, seemed a little lazy then I found him dead in the plant the
> next morning.
> I had my water tested, it's all normal. I think I am doing everything
> I should. I am trying to keep a good handle on the algea, plus I even
> got another algea eater to help out. The only ones that are not
> affected are the neons. Nothing seems to be bothering them at all.
> They seem like they are a sturdier fish than the others, plus the
> algea eaters nothing seems to bother them either.
> I do water changes and put in the weekly chems and add them when I
> do the water changes. I don't know what more I can do, any
> suggestions? Karen.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Check out the New Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19487 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puff
I beleive puffers are brakish water fish, and he might be suffering
from the fresh water. Could be wrong, though
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19488 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
I tend to go with the group in advising you to choose fish that don't
mind the acid water, rather than trying to alter the ph of the water.
However, one thing you can do is decorate your tank with natural
shells. They tend to create a more alkaline presence naturally and
slowly. When you run your water to fill the tank, that is when you
would add any ph up amendments, like bicarb or the commercial ph
adjusters. Let it age that way, and then add it to your tank.

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19489 From: Joe Saucedo Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puff
yes puffers are brackish.



On Nov 2, 2006, at 6:02 AM, cynthia brennemann wrote:

> I beleive puffers are brakish water fish, and he might be suffering
> from the fresh water. Could be wrong, though
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19490 From: Joe Saucedo Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
the best thing for something like this is 1) get fish that will enjoy
the that type of water. or 2) if you are going to alter the pH of
water do it over a period of about a week.

I would recommend a nice buffer sometimes sold in LFSs for salt or
cichlid use. mix up a couple liters in a container and slowly start
adding some in the morning and monitor the pH at night. you will
gradually begin to change the pH this way without sending anything
into shock or risking "bounce back"

key point here is to try not to alter the pH beyond one point on the
scale per day.


Joe





On Nov 2, 2006, at 3:40 AM, clubsprint wrote:

> G'day all
> Just tested my Aquarium and the PH is really low (below 6.2 which is
> what my test kit goes too). My fish for dummies says to add bi-card
> soda which I have but it doesn't say how much. The tank takes about 33
> litres so can someone tell me how much I should start to add. I have a
> sick looking goldfish which is what intially alerted me to the
> problem. The ammonia was also high. I've done a 1/3 water change and
> added some conditioner. I'm going to re-test shortly but I think the
> acidity will still be high. the aquarium has an under gravel filter.
> the inhabitants are 1 goldfish and 6 danios.
> Thanks for the help.
> Mark
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19491 From: chris topher Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Live Plant Help
annubias, bulbitas, wendt, crypt spiralis, moss balls,
giant hair grass...

at least those are my favorites and all very hardy...

have never had problems with corys and plants...

aquariumplants.com and aquariumgarden.com are both
good online sources for plants, no minimum order
required and good quality...

woody

--- Christine Fogu <kitty_animalworld@...>
wrote:

> Hi all! I need help about selecting good aquairum
> live plants for a new freshwater tank I plan on
> setting up within a few months. It will either be a
> 55 gallon tank (if I get a 90 for my sharks) or a 20
> gallon. The fish I choose to be in the tank are
> Haraquins and Ron Rio Tetras. Maybe some cories (I
> heard they would be ok with live plants - I don't
> know if I really trust that theory). I MAY also add
> some cardinals if I do the 55 gallon. I just bought
> a new light for my tank and recieved an Corallife
> Nutri Grow free for freshwater plants speciffically.
> So I already have a good light. I want a complete
> plants tank with varrying different iszes and kinds
> of plants. Any advice would be helpful. I've keep
> live plants before, but not for show, mainly just
> for my fish to slowly eat away. Thanks in advance!
>
> Christine :)
> www.kaworld.net
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and see which of your friends are
> online - Right on the new Yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>




test'; ">



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19492 From: snerticus Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Copepods are found both in fresh and saltwater. I have a ton of them
(or used to until the fish discovered them) in my tank. One
freshwater species is used to produce a product called Cyclop-eez as
food for fish.

The freshwater copepods I have are also called cyclops (as the
product above suggests)and are white in color. When they swim, they
use a jerky movement - they don't swim smoothly. I also have
ostracods (also called seed shrimp) which are about the size of the
copepods. These are a brownish color instead of white, and when they
swim, it's smoother than the copepods. They just seem to "fly"
around the tank like bugs, almost in swarms. If you look close enough
at the copepods, you can notice they have a "tail" and are kind of
teardrop shaped. Ostracods, on the other hand, are basically round
and you can't see what they look like without some sort of
magnification. None of them come out of the water, although they
seem to "attach" to the glass of the tank. The ostracods seem
to "stick" to the glass more, probably eating bacteria and algae
stuck to it. They tent to stay in groups when the population gets
high enough, whereas copepods usally swim around singly, and don't
seem to congregate in groups. Another observation with ostracods is
that when they are on the glass, they resemble newly hatched baby
snails. I have often had trouble trying to figure out which was a
baby pond snail and which was an ostracod - until it moved.

These are just my observations from my tanks here at home, but I have
also seen tiny mites at the surface of the water, and I have never
seen them swim under the surface.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...>
wrote:
>
> copepods are found in saltwater. But yes it sounds like you did
pick up some bugs but like the one person said most likely not
harmful just very annoying the only way to get rid of them is by
netting them out or do water change.
>
> PS don't worry about no one laughing at you
>
> Melissa Laing <fyyr@...> wrote:
> Wow, so many of you must be laughing! HEHE I am now...
> babies, HA! anyway looks like bugs. copepods maybe?
> There are tuns of them... what now?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19493 From: Jannine Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Blue Mystery Snail
Hi! I have a blue mystery snail in my 29 gallon tank. My fish nip at
his shell every once in a while, but nothing that hurts him. But
sometimes the force or my pleco will push him into the glass and bits
of his shell break off. I was told this means that there is not
enough calcium. Is there a calcium supplement that I can put in my
tank so it will become stronger and regrow? Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19494 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Leslie, Since you're treating the fish with Jungle's Internal
Parasite Guard and A.P.'s Hex-Out, I presume you feel that your Angel
has internal parasites, more probably Hexamita going by your
medications. Are you sure of this, and what makes you say that?
Normally, one of the first signs of internal Hexamita in Angels (and
other Cichlids, which seem most prone to get this, aside from other
species) is their lack of appetite. However, if the fish is eating
medicated bloodworms, or eating at all, I'd look further into what's
ailing this fish, like what are the signs and/or symptoms? If the
fish is refusing food, even though you're attempting to feed it
bloodworms, I'd have to go along with you in that diagnosis
especially if the fish is somewhat listless, lacking vitality and
prefers to sulk in a corner.

If this is the case, raise the temperature to 92o, and continue
treatment with Hex-Out (you can also use the Internal Parasite Guard)
and add Clout to the treatment. Metronidazole does not dissolve all
that readily in water -- for this reason, powdered (SeaChem)
Metronidazole can be used additionally for best results. Don't be
afraid of "overdosing" with Metronidazole. You'll need to add the
medication (Hex-Out) to very small amount of very warm (but not HOT)
water in a cup first, adding more very warm water to the cup after
it dissolves (dissolve the Clout at the same time, then add the
SeaChem), then add to the tank. After two days of treatments, with
one treatment per day, do a 50% water change (at the same 92o
temperature), and redose the tank; most often, at least 2 treatments,
each of two days, are necessary. If a 3rd treatment is needed, do
another 50% water change first. After treating is completed, do a
75% water change. Do not get discouraged -- this used to be a
difficult disease to cure, even with the medication (Metronidazole)
that is normally prescribed, but the regimen I have outlined will
work if the condition is not too far advanced (it appears you have
just caught this). When the fish is back in the larger tank, make
sure to keep up with your 1/3 (at least) weekly water changes, and
you can feed the Angel(s) Jungle's Pepso every 21 days, for 3 days
straight if you'd like. This latter suggestion is not absolutely
necessary but will help in making sure Hexamita will not return. The
major factor is to keep up with your water changes and to get rid of
your excess nitrates. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I have an angel w/ parasites but I can't treat her in the tank I
want to
> as she gets picked on by the other angels.
> Can I do a parasite treatment as a dip and add her back into the
main
> tank after?
> I have already treated her in a smaller quarantine w/ hex out and
> jungles internal parasite guard, it didn't work.
>
> I also have some prepared bloodworms w/ metronidazole & garlic guard
> that I will feed her when it's ready.
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19495 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Ray,
Can I use Clout w/ plants?

L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Parasite dip



Leslie, Since you're treating the fish with Jungle's Internal
Parasite Guard and A.P.'s Hex-Out, I presume you feel that your Angel
has internal parasites, more probably Hexamita going by your
medications. Are you sure of this, and what makes you say that?
Normally, one of the first signs of internal Hexamita in Angels (and
other Cichlids, which seem most prone to get this, aside from other
species) is their lack of appetite. However, if the fish is eating
medicated bloodworms, or eating at all, I'd look further into what's
ailing this fish, like what are the signs and/or symptoms? If the
fish is refusing food, even though you're attempting to feed it
bloodworms, I'd have to go along with you in that diagnosis
especially if the fish is somewhat listless, lacking vitality and
prefers to sulk in a corner.

If this is the case, raise the temperature to 92o, and continue
treatment with Hex-Out (you can also use the Internal Parasite Guard)
and add Clout to the treatment. Metronidazole does not dissolve all
that readily in water -- for this reason, powdered (SeaChem)
Metronidazole can be used additionally for best results. Don't be
afraid of "overdosing" with Metronidazole. You'll need to add the
medication (Hex-Out) to very small amount of very warm (but not HOT)
water in a cup first, adding more very warm water to the cup after
it dissolves (dissolve the Clout at the same time, then add the
SeaChem), then add to the tank. After two days of treatments, with
one treatment per day, do a 50% water change (at the same 92o
temperature), and redose the tank; most often, at least 2 treatments,
each of two days, are necessary. If a 3rd treatment is needed, do
another 50% water change first. After treating is completed, do a
75% water change. Do not get discouraged -- this used to be a
difficult disease to cure, even with the medication (Metronidazole)
that is normally prescribed, but the regimen I have outlined will
work if the condition is not too far advanced (it appears you have
just caught this). When the fish is back in the larger tank, make
sure to keep up with your 1/3 (at least) weekly water changes, and
you can feed the Angel(s) Jungle's Pepso every 21 days, for 3 days
straight if you'd like. This latter suggestion is not absolutely
necessary but will help in making sure Hexamita will not return. The
major factor is to keep up with your water changes and to get rid of
your excess nitrates. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I have an angel w/ parasites but I can't treat her in the tank I
want to
> as she gets picked on by the other angels.
> Can I do a parasite treatment as a dip and add her back into the
main
> tank after?
> I have already treated her in a smaller quarantine w/ hex out and
> jungles internal parasite guard, it didn't work.
>
> I also have some prepared bloodworms w/ metronidazole & garlic guard
> that I will feed her when it's ready.
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19496 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Leslie, I've never experienced any adverse effects on plants and
anything I've read reflects this, further stating its quite safe with
plants. I don't understand your concern though, unless you have
plants in your quarantine tank. You can search the Web for info on
this using "Clout medication aquatic plants," or any of its
individual components (Phenylbenzylindene, Dimethyl, Phosphonate and
Methylnitro/Atropine). Unlike Metronidazole though, do not overdose
with Clout in the least as it can be rough on fish, but if used
according to directions (1 tab per 10 gallons) its perfectly fine,
especially on Cichlids of this size and it seems mostly Cichlids that
get this.

For instance, if the fish is in a 15 gallon tank, do not add 2
tablets -- use 1 1/2 tabs, cutting one tab in half and then too, try
to really figure how many gallons you have in the tank; you never
have the full rated amount of water unless the surface is even with
the very top of the rim. I don't think this part is too important as
there must be some leaway, but I'm sure you get the idea.

I would hesitate using Clout in a tank that has scaleless fish
however, and am not sure of its effects on Tetras, but quarantining
is always the best route to go anyway, where possible, when treating
an individual fish.

Oh, a further point while I think of it; you'll need to use a
thermometer when doing water changes to make sure the fresh water is
as near to 92o as you can make it, without going too warm (its okay
at 88o or 90o when adding it). Additional aeration also helps ensure
sufficient gas exchanges are taking place. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
> Can I use Clout w/ plants?
>
> L
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 8:51 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Parasite dip
>
>
>
> Leslie, Since you're treating the fish with Jungle's Internal
> Parasite Guard and A.P.'s Hex-Out, I presume you feel that your
Angel
> has internal parasites, more probably Hexamita going by your
> medications. Are you sure of this, and what makes you say that?
> Normally, one of the first signs of internal Hexamita in Angels
(and
> other Cichlids, which seem most prone to get this, aside from other
> species) is their lack of appetite. However, if the fish is eating
> medicated bloodworms, or eating at all, I'd look further into
what's
> ailing this fish, like what are the signs and/or symptoms? If the
> fish is refusing food, even though you're attempting to feed it
> bloodworms, I'd have to go along with you in that diagnosis
> especially if the fish is somewhat listless, lacking vitality and
> prefers to sulk in a corner.
>
> If this is the case, raise the temperature to 92o, and continue
> treatment with Hex-Out (you can also use the Internal Parasite
Guard)
> and add Clout to the treatment. Metronidazole does not dissolve all
> that readily in water -- for this reason, powdered (SeaChem)
> Metronidazole can be used additionally for best results. Don't be
> afraid of "overdosing" with Metronidazole. You'll need to add the
> medication (Hex-Out) to very small amount of very warm (but not
HOT)
> water in a cup first, adding more very warm water to the cup after
> it dissolves (dissolve the Clout at the same time, then add the
> SeaChem), then add to the tank. After two days of treatments, with
> one treatment per day, do a 50% water change (at the same 92o
> temperature), and redose the tank; most often, at least 2
treatments,
> each of two days, are necessary. If a 3rd treatment is needed, do
> another 50% water change first. After treating is completed, do a
> 75% water change. Do not get discouraged -- this used to be a
> difficult disease to cure, even with the medication (Metronidazole)
> that is normally prescribed, but the regimen I have outlined will
> work if the condition is not too far advanced (it appears you have
> just caught this). When the fish is back in the larger tank, make
> sure to keep up with your 1/3 (at least) weekly water changes, and
> you can feed the Angel(s) Jungle's Pepso every 21 days, for 3 days
> straight if you'd like. This latter suggestion is not absolutely
> necessary but will help in making sure Hexamita will not return.
The
> major factor is to keep up with your water changes and to get rid
of
> your excess nitrates. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I have an angel w/ parasites but I can't treat her in the tank I
> want to
> > as she gets picked on by the other angels.
> > Can I do a parasite treatment as a dip and add her back into the
> main
> > tank after?
> > I have already treated her in a smaller quarantine w/ hex out and
> > jungles internal parasite guard, it didn't work.
> >
> > I also have some prepared bloodworms w/ metronidazole & garlic
guard
> > that I will feed her when it's ready.
> >
> > Any other suggestions?
> >
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19497 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
What is bringing down your pH is your excess food and waste. Cut back on feeding them like once everyother day a small pinch. Start to do water changes at least 10% once a week. Goldfish are messy fish so they would need it. You should concentrate on fixing your ammonia and waste problem and then the pH should regulate itself. Test your buffer capacity too. That also helps to regulate pH. There is a test kit for it.


----- Original Message ----
From: clubsprint <clubsprint@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2006 4:40:00 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Acidity help please

G'day all
Just tested my Aquarium and the PH is really low (below 6.2 which is
what my test kit goes too). My fish for dummies says to add bi-card
soda which I have but it doesn't say how much. The tank takes about 33
litres so can someone tell me how much I should start to add. I have a
sick looking goldfish which is what intially alerted me to the
problem. The ammonia was also high. I've done a 1/3 water change and
added some conditioner. I'm going to re-test shortly but I think the
acidity will still be high. the aquarium has an under gravel filter.
the inhabitants are 1 goldfish and 6 danios.
Thanks for the help.
Mark






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19498 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Blue Mystery Snail
Yeah there is one at the LFS. It is called Kent it is safe for freshwater.


----- Original Message ----
From: Jannine <rockgoddess8182@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2006 9:29:51 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Blue Mystery Snail

Hi! I have a blue mystery snail in my 29 gallon tank. My fish nip at
his shell every once in a while, but nothing that hurts him. But
sometimes the force or my pleco will push him into the glass and bits
of his shell break off. I was told this means that there is not
enough calcium. Is there a calcium supplement that I can put in my
tank so it will become stronger and regrow? Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19499 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Apple snails for sale: Minneapolis, MN
Hello all,
I need to clear some space in my living room and I have about 12 or more 1-2
inch apple snails available for sale/adoption. Obviously it's too cold to
mail them so hopefully one of you living in the area is interested. They are
docile but ravenous eaters and would not be appropriate for a planted tank.
Please email me off list if you are interested and make an offer. They are
beautiful and healthy and will breed easily under good conditions.
Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19500 From: Rick Rattie Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: snail eaters
Hi gang:

Has anyone read about a Chinese HiFin Banded Sharks taking care of snails? They are a Sucker type fish and suckers/loaches can be useful in getting rid of pesty snails but then again, these snails we wanted for the pond aka Trapdoor Snails.

We had a couple of cold snaps in the weather aka dropping below 30s outside but the 2 out of the 3 Sharks are still alive and thriving. The one we lost was the smallest of the three.

Rick



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19501 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: White Seam Pleco
How are White Seam Plecos (L183) when it comes to eating algae? I read they defend their territories, is that against other white seam plecos or against other fish period?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19502 From: Clubsprint Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
Thanks all for the input. After the water change "Otto" appears to be doing
much better.
I'll test the water again when I get home tonight. I was arguing with my
partner that she
was feeding them too much.They were getting fed twice a day so I'll cut that
back to
every second day. How do you tell if they're not getting enough food? "Otto"
was eating
the plants even with the overfeeding and the Danios were voracious.
Mark


----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 5:31 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Acidity help please


What is bringing down your pH is your excess food and waste. Cut back on
feeding them like once everyother day a small pinch. Start to do water
changes at least 10% once a week. Goldfish are messy fish so they would need
it. You should concentrate on fixing your ammonia and waste problem and then
the pH should regulate itself. Test your buffer capacity too. That also
helps to regulate pH. There is a test kit for it.

----- Original Message ----
From: clubsprint <clubsprint@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2006 4:40:00 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Acidity help please

G'day all
Just tested my Aquarium and the PH is really low (below 6.2 which is
what my test kit goes too). My fish for dummies says to add bi-card
soda which I have but it doesn't say how much. The tank takes about 33
litres so can someone tell me how much I should start to add. I have a
sick looking goldfish which is what intially alerted me to the
problem. The ammonia was also high. I've done a 1/3 water change and
added some conditioner. I'm going to re-test shortly but I think the
acidity will still be high. the aquarium has an under gravel filter.
the inhabitants are 1 goldfish and 6 danios.
Thanks for the help.
Mark

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19503 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Newbie here
Welcome to the list Rod. Do you keep any aquatic plants native to the
Philippines? If you do, what are they? Are they really native or are
they introduced to your habitat? I haven't noticed that any of the
plants we commonly keep in US aquariums that are native to your islands.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of la_rmarquezjr
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 9:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie here

Hello, everyone. I'm Rod from the Philippines. I'm an aquarium plant
collector. I'd like to make friends with fellow hobbyists here with
whom to exchange ideas and perhaps even plants.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19504 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Don’t forget Clout will turn your silicone blue permanently…another good
reason to use it in hospital tank only.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 12:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Parasite dip



Leslie, I've never experienced any adverse effects on plants and
anything I've read reflects this, further stating its quite safe with
plants. I don't understand your concern though, unless you have
plants in your quarantine tank. You can search the Web for info on
this using "Clout medication aquatic plants," or any of its
individual components (Phenylbenzylindene, Dimethyl, Phosphonate and
Methylnitro/Atropine). Unlike Metronidazole though, do not overdose
with Clout in the least as it can be rough on fish, but if used
according to directions (1 tab per 10 gallons) its perfectly fine,
especially on Cichlids of this size and it seems mostly Cichlids that
get this.

For instance, if the fish is in a 15 gallon tank, do not add 2
tablets -- use 1 1/2 tabs, cutting one tab in half and then too, try
to really figure how many gallons you have in the tank; you never
have the full rated amount of water unless the surface is even with
the very top of the rim. I don't think this part is too important as
there must be some leaway, but I'm sure you get the idea.

I would hesitate using Clout in a tank that has scaleless fish
however, and am not sure of its effects on Tetras, but quarantining
is always the best route to go anyway, where possible, when treating
an individual fish.

Oh, a further point while I think of it; you'll need to use a
thermometer when doing water changes to make sure the fresh water is
as near to 92o as you can make it, without going too warm (its okay
at 88o or 90o when adding it). Additional aeration also helps ensure
sufficient gas exchanges are taking place. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
> Can I use Clout w/ plants?
>
> L
>
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 8:51 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Parasite dip
>
>
>
> Leslie, Since you're treating the fish with Jungle's Internal
> Parasite Guard and A.P.'s Hex-Out, I presume you feel that your
Angel
> has internal parasites, more probably Hexamita going by your
> medications. Are you sure of this, and what makes you say that?
> Normally, one of the first signs of internal Hexamita in Angels
(and
> other Cichlids, which seem most prone to get this, aside from other
> species) is their lack of appetite. However, if the fish is eating
> medicated bloodworms, or eating at all, I'd look further into
what's
> ailing this fish, like what are the signs and/or symptoms? If the
> fish is refusing food, even though you're attempting to feed it
> bloodworms, I'd have to go along with you in that diagnosis
> especially if the fish is somewhat listless, lacking vitality and
> prefers to sulk in a corner.
>
> If this is the case, raise the temperature to 92o, and continue
> treatment with Hex-Out (you can also use the Internal Parasite
Guard)
> and add Clout to the treatment. Metronidazole does not dissolve all
> that readily in water -- for this reason, powdered (SeaChem)
> Metronidazole can be used additionally for best results. Don't be
> afraid of "overdosing" with Metronidazole. You'll need to add the
> medication (Hex-Out) to very small amount of very warm (but not
HOT)
> water in a cup first, adding more very warm water to the cup after
> it dissolves (dissolve the Clout at the same time, then add the
> SeaChem), then add to the tank. After two days of treatments, with
> one treatment per day, do a 50% water change (at the same 92o
> temperature), and redose the tank; most often, at least 2
treatments,
> each of two days, are necessary. If a 3rd treatment is needed, do
> another 50% water change first. After treating is completed, do a
> 75% water change. Do not get discouraged -- this used to be a
> difficult disease to cure, even with the medication (Metronidazole)
> that is normally prescribed, but the regimen I have outlined will
> work if the condition is not too far advanced (it appears you have
> just caught this). When the fish is back in the larger tank, make
> sure to keep up with your 1/3 (at least) weekly water changes, and
> you can feed the Angel(s) Jungle's Pepso every 21 days, for 3 days
> straight if you'd like. This latter suggestion is not absolutely
> necessary but will help in making sure Hexamita will not return.
The
> major factor is to keep up with your water changes and to get rid
of
> your excess nitrates. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I have an angel w/ parasites but I can't treat her in the tank I
> want to
> > as she gets picked on by the other angels.
> > Can I do a parasite treatment as a dip and add her back into the
> main
> > tank after?
> > I have already treated her in a smaller quarantine w/ hex out and
> > jungles internal parasite guard, it didn't work.
> >
> > I also have some prepared bloodworms w/ metronidazole & garlic
guard
> > that I will feed her when it's ready.
> >
> > Any other suggestions?
> >
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19505 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
Here are the guidelines from cichlid-forum (to use instead of cichlid
salts).



Start by adding 1 teaspoon of Baking Soda to five gallons of dechlorinated
water and see how much this raises your pH. Then adjust your dosage so as to
attain a desired level



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joe Saucedo
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 8:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Acidity help please



the best thing for something like this is 1) get fish that will enjoy
the that type of water. or 2) if you are going to alter the pH of
water do it over a period of about a week.

I would recommend a nice buffer sometimes sold in LFSs for salt or
cichlid use. mix up a couple liters in a container and slowly start
adding some in the morning and monitor the pH at night. you will
gradually begin to change the pH this way without sending anything
into shock or risking "bounce back"

key point here is to try not to alter the pH beyond one point on the
scale per day.

Joe

On Nov 2, 2006, at 3:40 AM, clubsprint wrote:

> G'day all
> Just tested my Aquarium and the PH is really low (below 6.2 which is
> what my test kit goes too). My fish for dummies says to add bi-card
> soda which I have but it doesn't say how much. The tank takes about 33
> litres so can someone tell me how much I should start to add. I have a
> sick looking goldfish which is what intially alerted me to the
> problem. The ammonia was also high. I've done a 1/3 water change and
> added some conditioner. I'm going to re-test shortly but I think the
> acidity will still be high. the aquarium has an under gravel filter.
> the inhabitants are 1 goldfish and 6 danios.
> Thanks for the help.
> Mark
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19506 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Parasite dip
Dips will only work on external parasites. They will not have an effect
on internal parasites. If it is internal parasites, you'll need to feed
a medicated food following the directions. It will not harm the other
fish and may help should the next generation be looking for a new gut to
live in. If it is an external parasite, you should be able to identify
it and give it the proper dip in the proper concentration.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 1:09 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Parasite dip

I have an angel w/ parasites but I can't treat her in the tank I want to
as she gets picked on by the other angels.
Can I do a parasite treatment as a dip and add her back into the main
tank after?
I have already treated her in a smaller quarantine w/ hex out and
jungles internal parasite guard, it didn't work.

I also have some prepared bloodworms w/ metronidazole & garlic guard
that I will feed her when it's ready.

Any other suggestions?

Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19507 From: snerticus Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Blue Mystery Snail
At the moment I have a bunch of small nano-sized freshwater tanks,
all 5 gallons or less. Until I started using tiny amounts of my
crushed coral gravel used for saltwater tanks, I used Seachem's Reef
Calcium. However, I didn't realized it raised the pH so much. So I
stopped using it and just mixed a few grains of my crused coral
subtrate with my regular flourite gravel in one of my 5 gallon
tanks. It seems to be working okay, maybe not releasing a heck of a
lot of calcium, but at least it's something. I can't add too much
crushed coral as it will also raise the pH. Another additive you
might want to get is iodine. I use(d) both at half strength in my
regular tanks and at full strength in my invert tanks. Of course,
since my one 5 gallon invert tank has all crushed coral as a
substrate, I don't have a calcium deficiency problem in there. As a
matter of fact, all my Malaysian Trumpet snails - even the large
ones - have fully intact and sharply pointed shells. In my other
tanks when I didn't supplement, the ends of their shells would
disintegrate and cause an ugly looking but usually not harmful dull
and open end. I have two types of Malaysian Trumpets... one is a
dull solid greyish brown and the others (I'm trying to take all the
solids out of my invert tank, leaving only the patterned ones) are a
very beautiful rusty brown striped on light grey background. It
reminds me of little lightning bolts.

My other inverts are doing well also, so I think the calcium and
iodine are helping them thrive. Oh yeah, I also add freshwater
vitamins to the water as well. I don't know if it helps at all, but
I like to think it is! Two brands of vitamins that come to mind and
that I have used are ChemiPure and Kent Zoe. Both come in fresh and
saltwater formulations. Usually, you use them to soak food in, but I
just drop them in the water as an additive to the tank.

What do the snail people here use for supplements?

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jannine" <rockgoddess8182@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi! I have a blue mystery snail in my 29 gallon tank. My fish nip
at
> his shell every once in a while, but nothing that hurts him. But
> sometimes the force or my pleco will push him into the glass and
bits
> of his shell break off. I was told this means that there is not
> enough calcium. Is there a calcium supplement that I can put in my
> tank so it will become stronger and regrow? Any help would be
> appreciated. Thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19508 From: snerticus Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Blue Mystery Snail
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that a snail cannot regrow a shell once it
has been damaged. I will grow new shell in front of the old damaged
part and the new shell will be healthy, but the old stays damaged. At
least that is what I have observed with my own snails...

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jannine" <rockgoddess8182@...>
wrote:
Is there a calcium supplement that I can put in my
> tank so it will become stronger and regrow? Any help would be
> appreciated. Thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19509 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Jeannie,

Usually one will give the driftwood chlorine bath followed by a good
rinse and a soak with a chlorine neutralizer added, then add to your
tank. Even though the wood has been in the water, you want to make sure
you are not introducing something unwanted into your tank.

We used to give the plants a short bath in an alum or potassium
permanganate solution, but that is generally not needed today. Just give
the plants a good once over looking for things like snail eggs, and
strip off the leaves that are not in the best condition, and plant them
in your tank.

How do you like the Atlas?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 6:42 PM
To: aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] new plants and driftwood

Hi All:

Boy, this list has been busy!

Leslie, good luck with your sick angel fish. I hope you can get him
well without anyone else becoming affected.

Steve, I have received the fish and plant atlas that you
recommended. Thank you for that and all of your worthy advice.

A few more questions, if I may. Today I bought some plants (swords,
I think) at Petco, along with a few pieces of small driftwood that
were in a tank with a few goldfish. Now I'm paranoid to put them
right into my 55 gallon. First, I soaked the driftwood in real hot
water for a few hours, than combined both the plants and the dw,
which are soaking in a bucket full of water. Any other advice before
putting them into the tank?

There was the biggest, most gorgeous 8" - 10" albino Oscar cichlid
who had been adopted by Petco and they were giving him away
free! Boy, don't I wish I could have him, but according to the petco
girl, he'd eat my tetras and corys. Darn!

Thanks.



Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19510 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
Nope, I can barely see them let alone take a pic

--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> can you get a pic?
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: fyyr.rm <fyyr@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 4:44:35 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Bugs or Babies?
>
> I brought home 6 new cherry barbs and a borneo
> sucker yesterday...
> Today I see little tiny,itty bitty (looks like a
> piece of dust) white
> things swimming around near the top of my tank. Then
> I noticed that
> the Cherry Barbs are laying eggs. Are theses baby
> barbs? Or did I
> bring home bugs too?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
Low, Low, Low Rates! Check out Yahoo! Messenger's cheap PC-to-Phone call rates
(http://voice.yahoo.com)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19511 From: Clubsprint Date: 11/2/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
Thanks Donna
That was exacly what I was after.
Mark
Aus

----- Original Message -----
From: Donna Ransome
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 1:28 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Acidity help please


Here are the guidelines from cichlid-forum (to use instead of cichlid
salts).

Start by adding 1 teaspoon of Baking Soda to five gallons of dechlorinated
water and see how much this raises your pH. Then adjust your dosage so as to
attain a desired level

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joe Saucedo
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 8:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Acidity help please

the best thing for something like this is 1) get fish that will enjoy
the that type of water. or 2) if you are going to alter the pH of
water do it over a period of about a week.

I would recommend a nice buffer sometimes sold in LFSs for salt or
cichlid use. mix up a couple liters in a container and slowly start
adding some in the morning and monitor the pH at night. you will
gradually begin to change the pH this way without sending anything
into shock or risking "bounce back"

key point here is to try not to alter the pH beyond one point on the
scale per day.

Joe

On Nov 2, 2006, at 3:40 AM, clubsprint wrote:

> G'day all
> Just tested my Aquarium and the PH is really low (below 6.2 which is
> what my test kit goes too). My fish for dummies says to add bi-card
> soda which I have but it doesn't say how much. The tank takes about 33
> litres so can someone tell me how much I should start to add. I have a
> sick looking goldfish which is what intially alerted me to the
> problem. The ammonia was also high. I've done a 1/3 water change and
> added some conditioner. I'm going to re-test shortly but I think the
> acidity will still be high. the aquarium has an under gravel filter.
> the inhabitants are 1 goldfish and 6 danios.
> Thanks for the help.
> Mark
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19512 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Good Morning All
Hi All,
I hope you all have had a great week this week and are looking
forward to a wonderful weekend. Emily, I hope you have success with
selling the AppleSnails. I would give you an offer but, I already
have three. I just LOVE them. My tank is not big enough for another
one though. Just a quick note to let every one know I am reading the
posts. I am just co-owner of two other groups and do not post in here
all the time. Happy Friday all. Sincerely, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19513 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
I've been soaking the dw in the chlorine for the day. What is a
chlorine neutralizer? When might I be able to add them to my tank?

I like the atlas. It has been fun finding my fish and bookmarking
those pages. And the plant section is nice, too, not to mention the
care and maintenance section. There is a lot covered there. In
fact, the girl at Petco wants the name of it so that her parents can
get it for her for Christmas.

Thanks, Steve.

Jeannie



At 10:58 PM 11/2/2006, you wrote:

>Jeannie,
>
>Usually one will give the driftwood chlorine bath followed by a good
>rinse and a soak with a chlorine neutralizer added, then add to your
>tank. Even though the wood has been in the water, you want to make sure
>you are not introducing something unwanted into your tank.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19514 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
I'd soak it in vinegar and then amquel. That's what I do with my
driftwood.
> I've been soaking the dw in the chlorine for the day. What is a
> chlorine neutralizer? When might I be able to add them to my tank?
>
> I like the atlas. It has been fun finding my fish and bookmarking
> those pages. And the plant section is nice, too, not to mention
the
> care and maintenance section. There is a lot covered there. In
> fact, the girl at Petco wants the name of it so that her parents
can
> get it for her for Christmas.
>
> Thanks, Steve.
>
> Jeannie
>
>
>
> At 10:58 PM 11/2/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Jeannie,
> >
> >Usually one will give the driftwood chlorine bath followed by a
good
> >rinse and a soak with a chlorine neutralizer added, then add to
your
> >tank. Even though the wood has been in the water, you want to make
sure
> >you are not introducing something unwanted into your tank.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19515 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puff
There are freshwater puffers as well. However, most of the puffers are
brackish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joe Saucedo
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 8:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a little info or help on a
possible sick green puffer.

yes puffers are brackish.



On Nov 2, 2006, at 6:02 AM, cynthia brennemann wrote:

> I beleive puffers are brakish water fish, and he might be suffering
> from the fresh water. Could be wrong, though
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19516 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: Acidity help please
You can also add Epsom Salts to help with buffering. There is an article in
the Library section of the site.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Clubsprint
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Acidity help please



Thanks Donna
That was exacly what I was after.
Mark
Aus

----- Original Message -----
From: Donna Ransome
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 1:28 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Acidity help please

Here are the guidelines from cichlid-forum (to use instead of cichlid
salts).

Start by adding 1 teaspoon of Baking Soda to five gallons of dechlorinated
water and see how much this raises your pH. Then adjust your dosage so as to
attain a desired level

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Joe Saucedo
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 8:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Acidity help please

the best thing for something like this is 1) get fish that will enjoy
the that type of water. or 2) if you are going to alter the pH of
water do it over a period of about a week.

I would recommend a nice buffer sometimes sold in LFSs for salt or
cichlid use. mix up a couple liters in a container and slowly start
adding some in the morning and monitor the pH at night. you will
gradually begin to change the pH this way without sending anything
into shock or risking "bounce back"

key point here is to try not to alter the pH beyond one point on the
scale per day.

Joe

On Nov 2, 2006, at 3:40 AM, clubsprint wrote:

> G'day all
> Just tested my Aquarium and the PH is really low (below 6.2 which is
> what my test kit goes too). My fish for dummies says to add bi-card
> soda which I have but it doesn't say how much. The tank takes about 33
> litres so can someone tell me how much I should start to add. I have a
> sick looking goldfish which is what intially alerted me to the
> problem. The ammonia was also high. I've done a 1/3 water change and
> added some conditioner. I'm going to re-test shortly but I think the
> acidity will still be high. the aquarium has an under gravel filter.
> the inhabitants are 1 goldfish and 6 danios.
> Thanks for the help.
> Mark
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19517 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: Apple snails for sale: Minneapolis, MN
Is Roseville near you? You might want to check with the Minnesota
Aquarium Society that meets in Roseville. Many clubs have mini auctions
at the meetings, even if they do not, there may be a ready outlet for
your snails.

Their web site is at http://www.mn-aquarium.org/index2.html

Unfortunately, the meeting this month was (quickly checking the time)
last night.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Emily Tenczar
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 2:51 PM
To: AquaticLife; Freshwater Aquariums; UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Apple snails for sale: Minneapolis, MN

Hello all,
I need to clear some space in my living room and I have about 12 or more
1-2
inch apple snails available for sale/adoption. Obviously it's too cold
to
mail them so hopefully one of you living in the area is interested. They
are
docile but ravenous eaters and would not be appropriate for a planted
tank.
Please email me off list if you are interested and make an offer. They
are
beautiful and healthy and will breed easily under good conditions.
Emily
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19518 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/3/2006
Subject: Re: Bugs or Babies?
I'm pretty sure on the cyclops now... and maybe mites.
However whatever they are they have provided an
EXCELLENT food source for my 2 week old bettas. I'd
Love to find out how they got there and where they
came from since I use none of the same stuff for my
breeding tank as my regular tank. My babies have
trippled in size since I noticed them in the tank. I
think I am going to keep some of that water to use in
the next breeding tank.


--- snerticus <Snerticus@...> wrote:

> Copepods are found both in fresh and saltwater. I
> have a ton of them
> (or used to until the fish discovered them) in my
> tank. One
> freshwater species is used to produce a product
> called Cyclop-eez as
> food for fish.
>
> The freshwater copepods I have are also called
> cyclops (as the
> product above suggests)and are white in color. When
> they swim, they
> use a jerky movement - they don't swim smoothly. I
> also have
> ostracods (also called seed shrimp) which are about
> the size of the
> copepods. These are a brownish color instead of
> white, and when they
> swim, it's smoother than the copepods. They just
> seem to "fly"
> around the tank like bugs, almost in swarms. If you
> look close enough
> at the copepods, you can notice they have a "tail"
> and are kind of
> teardrop shaped. Ostracods, on the other hand, are
> basically round
> and you can't see what they look like without some
> sort of
> magnification. None of them come out of the water,
> although they
> seem to "attach" to the glass of the tank. The
> ostracods seem
> to "stick" to the glass more, probably eating
> bacteria and algae
> stuck to it. They tent to stay in groups when the
> population gets
> high enough, whereas copepods usally swim around
> singly, and don't
> seem to congregate in groups. Another observation
> with ostracods is
> that when they are on the glass, they resemble newly
> hatched baby
> snails. I have often had trouble trying to figure
> out which was a
> baby pond snail and which was an ostracod - until it
> moved.
>
> These are just my observations from my tanks here at
> home, but I have
> also seen tiny mites at the surface of the water,
> and I have never
> seen them swim under the surface.
>
> Snert
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum
> <juggernaut121@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > copepods are found in saltwater. But yes it sounds
> like you did
> pick up some bugs but like the one person said most
> likely not
> harmful just very annoying the only way to get rid
> of them is by
> netting them out or do water change.
> >
> > PS don't worry about no one laughing at you
> >
> > Melissa Laing <fyyr@...> wrote:
> > Wow, so many of you must be laughing!
> HEHE I am now...
> > babies, HA! anyway looks like bugs. copepods
> maybe?
> > There are tuns of them... what now?
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
We have the perfect Group for you. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo! Groups
(http://groups.yahoo.com)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19519 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Slowly but surely getting caught up after a hellish week--
A chlorine neutralizer is a product that removes chlorine from the water
such as Ultimate marketed by Hikari.

When you get done with Volume 1 of the Atlas, you can move onto Volume
2, then Volume 3, and Volume 4. There are also marine volumes should you
wish to investigate that. There are also some volumes that have yet to
be translated, but, if you wish to practice your German . . .. You could
pad your Christmas list also.

I believe that Volume 1 is a very good book, no matter what level you
are in this hobby, novice or expert.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 2:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] re: new plants and driftwood

I've been soaking the dw in the chlorine for the day. What is a
chlorine neutralizer? When might I be able to add them to my tank?

I like the atlas. It has been fun finding my fish and bookmarking
those pages. And the plant section is nice, too, not to mention the
care and maintenance section. There is a lot covered there. In
fact, the girl at Petco wants the name of it so that her parents can
get it for her for Christmas.

Thanks, Steve.

Jeannie



At 10:58 PM 11/2/2006, you wrote:

>Jeannie,
>
>Usually one will give the driftwood chlorine bath followed by a good
>rinse and a soak with a chlorine neutralizer added, then add to your
>tank. Even though the wood has been in the water, you want to make sure
>you are not introducing something unwanted into your tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19520 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
The amquel is a dechlorinater it takes out the harmful effects of chlorine in the water.


----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 3, 2006 8:20:17 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: new plants and driftwood

I'd soak it in vinegar and then amquel. That's what I do with my
driftwood.
> I've been soaking the dw in the chlorine for the day. What is a
> chlorine neutralizer? When might I be able to add them to my tank?
>
> I like the atlas. It has been fun finding my fish and bookmarking
> those pages. And the plant section is nice, too, not to mention
the
> care and maintenance section. There is a lot covered there. In
> fact, the girl at Petco wants the name of it so that her parents
can
> get it for her for Christmas.
>
> Thanks, Steve.
>
> Jeannie
>
>
>
> At 10:58 PM 11/2/2006, you wrote:
>
> >Jeannie,
> >
> >Usually one will give the driftwood chlorine bath followed by a
good
> >rinse and a soak with a chlorine neutralizer added, then add to
your
> >tank. Even though the wood has been in the water, you want to make
sure
> >you are not introducing something unwanted into your tank.
> >
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19521 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Hi Steve and Joe:

How long do I soak the driftwood? Thanks. Jeannie

At 11:23 AM 11/4/2006, you wrote:

>The amquel is a dechlorinater it takes out the harmful effects of
>chlorine in the water.
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: cynthia brennemann
><<mailto:brennewoman%40hotmail.com>brennewoman@...>
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Friday, November 3, 2006 8:20:17 PM
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: new plants and driftwood
>
>I'd soak it in vinegar and then amquel. That's what I do with my
>driftwood.
> > I've been soaking the dw in the chlorine for the day. What is a
> > chlorine neutralizer? When might I be able to add them to my tank?
> >
> > I like the atlas. It has been fun finding my fish and bookmarking
> > those pages. And the plant section is nice, too, not to mention


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19522 From: taryn frankenfurter Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)
Hello everyone! I joined this group (and a few others) because i was
hoping someone could help me out as i have won what i thought was a
goldfish at the fair last night yet my roommate says because of it's
little moustache that it may be a koi. Whether thisd is ignorant or
not I agree that it is quite koi-like and have tried to find out all
that i can because i have already placed it my 55 gallon thinking it
was a goldfish. Yet i have not found any answers to my questions and
am still trying to find a good gallery or koi identification page.

I have 4 different gouramis, 2 corydoras and two plecos.. compatible?

I was told to keep my water in the late 70's...too hot for a koi?

Anyone who could help me with this would be greatly appreciated as i
am completely lost and can not seem to find any help with a search engine.

Thanks!

(sorry to those on the koilife list where i have also posted this but
i need all the help i can get!!!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19523 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Archer Fish
Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in the store. Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm reading, but then again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have some good info on Archer fish? I know they are chilids, and top dwellers. Yeah and they spit water which I would think would be neat to see. Any other help will be great.
TIA
Keri



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19524 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puff
There is a freshwater aquaium salt you can get and add one teaspoon per gallon.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19525 From: Joe Saucedo Date: 11/4/2006
Subject: Re: Looking for a little info or help on a possible sick green puff
yes that is true or you can just buy a small package of salt I
believe most stores will now cary a five gallon mix, having most
trace elements it would probably help out more so and it will even
buffer the water.


On Nov 4, 2006, at 10:25 AM, Joseph Reid wrote:

> There is a freshwater aquaium salt you can get and add one teaspoon
> per gallon.
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19526 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
I am almost certain they are not cichlids.

Let's google it and see.
http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/Fishindx/archerf.htm

http://habitatnews.nus.edu.sg/guidebooks/freshfish/fishlist.htm

count the nostrils. If there are two on each side of the head it is not a
cichlid. Cichlids have one on each side of their head.



In a message dated 11/4/2006 4:36:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kiwi762@... writes:
Archer fish? I know they are chilids


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19527 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
If the wood is already waterlogged, you did mention it came from a tank
at the store, an hour should be more than sufficient in a chlorine bath.
Then remove the water and soak in plain water with the dechlorinator
added.

Joe had mentioned Amquel, which is generally no longer available. Do not
use Amquel Plus, which is a different formulation, and many people have
reported problems when using it. The original Amquel is now being
distributed as Ultimate by Hikari. Like Amquel, there is no shelf life,
and it can withstand even freezing with no ill effects on it efficacy.

If you are treating wood that is not already waterlogged, you will need
to treat for several days to weeks, until the wood is water logged, and
then do the rinse and dechlorination.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 11:50 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: new plants and driftwood

Hi Steve and Joe:

How long do I soak the driftwood? Thanks. Jeannie

At 11:23 AM 11/4/2006, you wrote:

>The amquel is a dechlorinater it takes out the harmful effects of
>chlorine in the water.
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: cynthia brennemann
><<mailto:brennewoman%40hotmail.com>brennewoman@...>
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Friday, November 3, 2006 8:20:17 PM
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: new plants and driftwood
>
>I'd soak it in vinegar and then amquel. That's what I do with my
>driftwood.
> > I've been soaking the dw in the chlorine for the day. What is a
> > chlorine neutralizer? When might I be able to add them to my tank?
> >
> > I like the atlas. It has been fun finding my fish and bookmarking
> > those pages. And the plant section is nice, too, not to mention
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19528 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)
It does sound like you do have a koi. There are a number of good koi
sites that have found on the webv, so your search should be a short
one. Google is your friend. The problem is that most will show the fish
from the top, as they are meant to be viewed, since they are pond fish,
not aquarium fish, and have been bred for top viewing of color patterns.

Koi is a temperate water fish. They are most comfortable in water that
is in the upper 60's F. They are also notorious plant eaters. Koi should
not be kept with tropical fish. The water requirements are different,
they do get huge--in excess of 30", in addition to the temperature
requirements mentioned above. They are also like goldfish in that they
are notoriously "dirty" fish, releasing a lot of ammonia that needs to
be handled by your biological filter. (Goldfish also should not be kept
with tropical fish.) Their disease profile is different, but they can be
affected by tropical diseases with a far wors prognosis than tropical
fish as well as introduce non-tropical diseases to your tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of taryn frankenfurter
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 12:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)

Hello everyone! I joined this group (and a few others) because i was
hoping someone could help me out as i have won what i thought was a
goldfish at the fair last night yet my roommate says because of it's
little moustache that it may be a koi. Whether thisd is ignorant or
not I agree that it is quite koi-like and have tried to find out all
that i can because i have already placed it my 55 gallon thinking it
was a goldfish. Yet i have not found any answers to my questions and
am still trying to find a good gallery or koi identification page.

I have 4 different gouramis, 2 corydoras and two plecos.. compatible?

I was told to keep my water in the late 70's...too hot for a koi?

Anyone who could help me with this would be greatly appreciated as i
am completely lost and can not seem to find any help with a search
engine.

Thanks!

(sorry to those on the koilife list where i have also posted this but
i need all the help i can get!!!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19529 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
On Sun, 5 Nov 2006 10:34 am, Keri Kimball wrote:
> Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in the store.
> Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm reading, but then
> again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have some good info on Archer
> fish? I know they are chilids, and top dwellers. Yeah and they spit water
> which I would think would be neat to see. Any other help will be great. TIA

Not cichlids AFAIK. They are native to SE Asia and Australia, living in fresh
and brackish water. Cool fish. Local to my area, but it's been a long time
since I've seen any in the wild due to the drought. Same with the local
rainbowfish :(

Although some rainbows (Melanotaenia splendida splendida) did come upstream a
couple of wet seasons ago and I caught about 8. Still have most of them in
one tank doing well...

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19530 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Keri, Nice find and something to keep you entertained! I would
suggest adding salt to these mainly brackish-water fish's environment
for long term maintenance; a solution of between 1% and 2% (7.5 tsp.
to 15 tsp salt per 10 gallons) would be ideal, even though they are
also found in fresh water for brief periods.

As Mike points out, these are not Cichlids. While Archer Fish
(Toxotes) belong to the same Order (Perciformes) as Cichlids, its
here that the five Species in this Genus part company with that
Family. The Family Toxotidae, of which the Archer Fish is a member,
belongs to the sub-Order Percoidei, a group that for the most part
has two pairs of nostrils, while the Cichlidae belong to the sub-
Order Labroidei. The Archer Fish is however, one of the exceptions
in its sub-Order in that it has but one pair of nostrils, so you
can't go by that part of its make up in deciding its
description.

Just a hint in maintaining their health and well being: As top
dwellers, they primarily take their food on the surface, and then
they usually prefer it live (insects, etc.). They seldom go after
the food once it starts sinking as it soon gets out of their eyesight
range. You may be able to get them to take freeze-dried Krill (which
floats on the surface), especially if its moving by way of a
powerhead or filter outlet. Properly feeding them though is often
one of the problems in maintaining these species, which often can
lead to their early deaths if not able to do so. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...> wrote:
>
> Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in the
store. Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm
reading, but then again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have
some good info on Archer fish? I know they are chilids, and top
dwellers. Yeah and they spit water which I would think would be neat
to see. Any other help will be great.
> TIA
> Keri
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19531 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Ray

Thanks for the info. I have some salt in all my tanks, I use it to help with the prevention of disease. I have 4 sharks and 2 cats (Rainbow, Black, Albino Irredesent, Black fin, Red Tail African Cat, and anoth cat) and then I have one of my Candied Parrot fish, I think she is about to lay eggs. I fed them last night and watched them and they did eat some of the flake food, then I put in a cube of brine shrimp and they did eat that. I'm guessing I was thinking of my African Butterfly Fish when thinking Chilid. I'm already in love with them, they are so neat. I need to find some kind of bug so I can see if I can get them to shoot water. I will have to make a note that I need some more Krill, I'm going to try to break some tubefix worms apart see if they will eat that.

Keri



----- Original Message ----
From: Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 8:31:26 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Archer Fish


Keri, Nice find and something to keep you entertained! I would
suggest adding salt to these mainly brackish-water fish's environment
for long term maintenance; a solution of between 1% and 2% (7.5 tsp.
to 15 tsp salt per 10 gallons) would be ideal, even though they are
also found in fresh water for brief periods.

As Mike points out, these are not Cichlids. While Archer Fish
(Toxotes) belong to the same Order (Perciformes) as Cichlids, its
here that the five Species in this Genus part company with that
Family. The Family Toxotidae, of which the Archer Fish is a member,
belongs to the sub-Order Percoidei, a group that for the most part
has two pairs of nostrils, while the Cichlidae belong to the sub-
Order Labroidei. The Archer Fish is however, one of the exceptions
in its sub-Order in that it has but one pair of nostrils, so you
can't go by that part of its make up in deciding its
description.

Just a hint in maintaining their health and well being: As top
dwellers, they primarily take their food on the surface, and then
they usually prefer it live (insects, etc.). They seldom go after
the food once it starts sinking as it soon gets out of their eyesight
range. You may be able to get them to take freeze-dried Krill (which
floats on the surface), especially if its moving by way of a
powerhead or filter outlet. Properly feeding them though is often
one of the problems in maintaining these species, which often can
lead to their early deaths if not able to do so. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...> wrote:
>
> Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in the
store. Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm
reading, but then again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have
some good info on Archer fish? I know they are chilids, and top
dwellers. Yeah and they spit water which I would think would be neat
to see. Any other help will be great.
> TIA
> Keri
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19532 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Keri, Sounds like you can't have very much salt in your tanks right
now, as many catfish do not like salt. The amount of salt you do
have is probably not enough for the Archer Fish, since you would
probably be experiencing problems with some of your catfish
otherwise. As I see you said "tanks," as in pleural, I'd suggest
putting those archer fish in a tank that doesn't have catfish (if
there are any) and increasing the salt amount. They'll do okay for a
while like this, but prefer more salt long term.

Before you get deluged with replies concerning your African Butterfly
Fish, be advised that this is not a Cichlid either, but that's okay,
your Candied Parrot fish is (a combination a two cross-bred
Cichlids). Just know that if she lays eggs, and if she's the only
Parrot fish in the tank, there's no chance that they'll be fertilized.

Glad to see the Archers are taking flake food. Looks like they
should probably take most anything you offer on the surface then.
The freeze-dried tubifex cubes, broken into pieces, would be a good
idea. I don't know about floating pellets (small), but they might be
worth a try. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...> wrote:
>
> Ray
>
> Thanks for the info. I have some salt in all my tanks, I use it
to help with the prevention of disease. I have 4 sharks and 2 cats
(Rainbow, Black, Albino Irredesent, Black fin, Red Tail African Cat,
and anoth cat) and then I have one of my Candied Parrot fish, I think
she is about to lay eggs. I fed them last night and watched them and
they did eat some of the flake food, then I put in a cube of brine
shrimp and they did eat that. I'm guessing I was thinking of my
African Butterfly Fish when thinking Chilid. I'm already in love with
them, they are so neat. I need to find some kind of bug so I can see
if I can get them to shoot water. I will have to make a note that I
need some more Krill, I'm going to try to break some tubefix worms
apart see if they will eat that.
>
> Keri
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 8:31:26 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Archer Fish
>
>
> Keri, Nice find and something to keep you entertained! I would
> suggest adding salt to these mainly brackish-water fish's
environment
> for long term maintenance; a solution of between 1% and 2% (7.5
tsp.
> to 15 tsp salt per 10 gallons) would be ideal, even though they are
> also found in fresh water for brief periods.
>
> As Mike points out, these are not Cichlids. While Archer Fish
> (Toxotes) belong to the same Order (Perciformes) as Cichlids, its
> here that the five Species in this Genus part company with that
> Family. The Family Toxotidae, of which the Archer Fish is a
member,
> belongs to the sub-Order Percoidei, a group that for the most part
> has two pairs of nostrils, while the Cichlidae belong to the sub-
> Order Labroidei. The Archer Fish is however, one of the exceptions
> in its sub-Order in that it has but one pair of nostrils, so you
> can't go by that part of its make up in deciding its
> description.
>
> Just a hint in maintaining their health and well being: As top
> dwellers, they primarily take their food on the surface, and then
> they usually prefer it live (insects, etc.). They seldom go after
> the food once it starts sinking as it soon gets out of their
eyesight
> range. You may be able to get them to take freeze-dried Krill
(which
> floats on the surface), especially if its moving by way of a
> powerhead or filter outlet. Properly feeding them though is often
> one of the problems in maintaining these species, which often can
> lead to their early deaths if not able to do so. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@> wrote:
> >
> > Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in
the
> store. Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm
> reading, but then again I know breeders are better. Does anyone
have
> some good info on Archer fish? I know they are chilids, and top
> dwellers. Yeah and they spit water which I would think would be
neat
> to see. Any other help will be great.
> > TIA
> > Keri
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19533 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Ray,

Ok I will try and see if maybe I can move the cats to a different tank. Yeah I have diffeernt tanks. I have a live bearer tank (many babies living) a tank filled with Candied Parrots, and a smaller tank with 4 week old candied Parrot fry. I guess this maybe a good time to get my other 10 gallon out that is empty and put the Archer's in there, just need to find a place to set it up at.
Thanks

Keri





----- Original Message ----
From: Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 10:26:59 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Archer Fish


Keri, Sounds like you can't have very much salt in your tanks right
now, as many catfish do not like salt. The amount of salt you do
have is probably not enough for the Archer Fish, since you would
probably be experiencing problems with some of your catfish
otherwise. As I see you said "tanks," as in pleural, I'd suggest
putting those archer fish in a tank that doesn't have catfish (if
there are any) and increasing the salt amount. They'll do okay for a
while like this, but prefer more salt long term.

Before you get deluged with replies concerning your African Butterfly
Fish, be advised that this is not a Cichlid either, but that's okay,
your Candied Parrot fish is (a combination a two cross-bred
Cichlids). Just know that if she lays eggs, and if she's the only
Parrot fish in the tank, there's no chance that they'll be fertilized.

Glad to see the Archers are taking flake food. Looks like they
should probably take most anything you offer on the surface then.
The freeze-dried tubifex cubes, broken into pieces, would be a good
idea. I don't know about floating pellets (small), but they might be
worth a try. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...> wrote:
>
> Ray
>
> Thanks for the info. I have some salt in all my tanks, I use it
to help with the prevention of disease. I have 4 sharks and 2 cats
(Rainbow, Black, Albino Irredesent, Black fin, Red Tail African Cat,
and anoth cat) and then I have one of my Candied Parrot fish, I think
she is about to lay eggs. I fed them last night and watched them and
they did eat some of the flake food, then I put in a cube of brine
shrimp and they did eat that. I'm guessing I was thinking of my
African Butterfly Fish when thinking Chilid. I'm already in love with
them, they are so neat. I need to find some kind of bug so I can see
if I can get them to shoot water. I will have to make a note that I
need some more Krill, I'm going to try to break some tubefix worms
apart see if they will eat that.
>
> Keri
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 8:31:26 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Archer Fish
>
>
> Keri, Nice find and something to keep you entertained! I would
> suggest adding salt to these mainly brackish-water fish's
environment
> for long term maintenance; a solution of between 1% and 2% (7.5
tsp.
> to 15 tsp salt per 10 gallons) would be ideal, even though they are
> also found in fresh water for brief periods.
>
> As Mike points out, these are not Cichlids. While Archer Fish
> (Toxotes) belong to the same Order (Perciformes) as Cichlids, its
> here that the five Species in this Genus part company with that
> Family. The Family Toxotidae, of which the Archer Fish is a
member,
> belongs to the sub-Order Percoidei, a group that for the most part
> has two pairs of nostrils, while the Cichlidae belong to the sub-
> Order Labroidei. The Archer Fish is however, one of the exceptions
> in its sub-Order in that it has but one pair of nostrils, so you
> can't go by that part of its make up in deciding its
> description.
>
> Just a hint in maintaining their health and well being: As top
> dwellers, they primarily take their food on the surface, and then
> they usually prefer it live (insects, etc.). They seldom go after
> the food once it starts sinking as it soon gets out of their
eyesight
> range. You may be able to get them to take freeze-dried Krill
(which
> floats on the surface), especially if its moving by way of a
> powerhead or filter outlet. Properly feeding them though is often
> one of the problems in maintaining these species, which often can
> lead to their early deaths if not able to do so. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@> wrote:
> >
> > Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in
the
> store. Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm
> reading, but then again I know breeders are better. Does anyone
have
> some good info on Archer fish? I know they are chilids, and top
> dwellers. Yeah and they spit water which I would think would be
neat
> to see. Any other help will be great.
> > TIA
> > Keri
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19534 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: OT/Keri
Hi,

I am going to be OT for just this once and let Keri know that I also
have a daughter named Keri (and spelled the same way) and has always been
called 'Kiwi' too! Just thought that was a cool coincedence! BTW-I tried to
email you off list but it wouldn't go thru.

Okay, back to fish!
Deanna Cronan, who has been picking little pesky snails out all morning!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19535 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: new plants and driftwood
Well the driftwood is going to soak up the water. How long did you let it soak before hand? When the amquel is in the water I would do a double dose of the amquel. Then let it soak a couple of days longer of for two days at least when the amquel is in. If you have a pool test kit or spa test kit maybe you can test for the chlorine. You can even add another dose of amquel the next day. You just want to make sure that the chlorine is out of it completely. The driftwood is going to soak the chlorine so you want the driftwood to soak the amquel too. Overkilling the chlorine with the amquel would be a better thing. Then if your really patient you can let it sun out for a couple of days too. That would also get rid of any chlorine that may of escaped the amquel lol. Good luck.


----- Original Message ----
From: ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 4, 2006 11:49:56 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: new plants and driftwood

Hi Steve and Joe:

How long do I soak the driftwood? Thanks. Jeannie

At 11:23 AM 11/4/2006, you wrote:

>The amquel is a dechlorinater it takes out the harmful effects of
>chlorine in the water.
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: cynthia brennemann
><<mailto:brennewom an%40hotmail. com>brennewoman@ hotmail.com>
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife %40yahoogroups. com>AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
>Sent: Friday, November 3, 2006 8:20:17 PM
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: new plants and driftwood
>
>I'd soak it in vinegar and then amquel. That's what I do with my
>driftwood.
> > I've been soaking the dw in the chlorine for the day. What is a
> > chlorine neutralizer? When might I be able to add them to my tank?
> >
> > I like the atlas. It has been fun finding my fish and bookmarking
> > those pages. And the plant section is nice, too, not to mention

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19536 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=908
This would help. Their temp range is 36-90 degree F. The colder they are the less waste they would produce. Although the temp in you community tank is ok for them. Goldfish in general are a messy fish. So hes going to produce more waste than your tankmates. Normally you wouldnt put them in a tropical aquaim either. Goldfish need their own tank because they thrive in colder waters. If you have live plants they would eat them up. Now they do get big too. They are more for the big ponds than a tank life. If you keep him in there Ill probalby make sure you under feed them. Would have to do more volume on your water changes like 15% - 20 % a week with a gravel cleaning syphon. Good Luck.


----- Original Message ----
From: taryn frankenfurter <clasticrock4@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 4, 2006 12:14:56 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)

Hello everyone! I joined this group (and a few others) because i was
hoping someone could help me out as i have won what i thought was a
goldfish at the fair last night yet my roommate says because of it's
little moustache that it may be a koi. Whether thisd is ignorant or
not I agree that it is quite koi-like and have tried to find out all
that i can because i have already placed it my 55 gallon thinking it
was a goldfish. Yet i have not found any answers to my questions and
am still trying to find a good gallery or koi identification page.

I have 4 different gouramis, 2 corydoras and two plecos.. compatible?

I was told to keep my water in the late 70's...too hot for a koi?

Anyone who could help me with this would be greatly appreciated as i
am completely lost and can not seem to find any help with a search engine.

Thanks!

(sorry to those on the koilife list where i have also posted this but
i need all the help i can get!!!)






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19537 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=1600&N=0
This may help.


----- Original Message ----
From: Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 4, 2006 7:34:55 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish

Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in the store. Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm reading, but then again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have some good info on Archer fish? I know they are chilids, and top dwellers. Yeah and they spit water which I would think would be neat to see. Any other help will be great.
TIA
Keri

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19538 From: bunnycareshi Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Aloha

One of my neighbors was getting rid of a 55gal,
complete w/filter and top. I just have a 10gal
freshwater w/a young Clown Loach, snail and pleco and
have been wanting to upgrade and continue adding just
small fish. Kinda hard to resist this, as the cost of
above (new) can be steep for me.

It was quite clean and had a bunch of large marbles on
the bottom as the substrate, and maybe a couple inches
of water remaining in it.

What is the minimal kind of cleaning/setting up I need
to do? I don't see the glass needing anymore than
light scrubbing. Do I have to keep cycling b/4 I add
my own fish, and if so, how many times? Any benefit to
add these "water conditioners" I see in stores?

Cinde, Hawaii



____________________________________________________________________________________
Low, Low, Low Rates! Check out Yahoo! Messenger's cheap PC-to-Phone call rates
(http://voice.yahoo.com)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19539 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Cinde,

You're back! Hope that earthquake did not prove to be too much of a
hardship on you.

With marbles as a substrate, most of the biological filtration wa
probably done by the filter, so, if tha tis still damp, you may have a
shot at retaining the cycle without much work at all. Just keep the
filter media damp while you move and setup the tank and get it clean.
Once you have filled it, just get some plain ammonia (no additives) and
add enough to the tank to bring the ammonia level to 5 ppm. Measure it
again the next day and if it reads 0 ppm, then test for nitrites and if
they are also 0, you are good to go. If you have a reading of ammonia,
then add enough ammonia to bring back to the 5 ppm level again, and
repeat until your ammonia and nitrites read 0. Then you can transfer
your fish.

If you need to wait, you can spend the time planning the fish you will
add to the tank when you have it up and running.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 5:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater

Aloha

One of my neighbors was getting rid of a 55gal,
complete w/filter and top. I just have a 10gal
freshwater w/a young Clown Loach, snail and pleco and
have been wanting to upgrade and continue adding just
small fish. Kinda hard to resist this, as the cost of
above (new) can be steep for me.

It was quite clean and had a bunch of large marbles on
the bottom as the substrate, and maybe a couple inches
of water remaining in it.

What is the minimal kind of cleaning/setting up I need
to do? I don't see the glass needing anymore than
light scrubbing. Do I have to keep cycling b/4 I add
my own fish, and if so, how many times? Any benefit to
add these "water conditioners" I see in stores?

Cinde, Hawaii
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19540 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
G'day Tim

I'm from Queensland too! Presently recently retired in Lawnton and moving to
Cairns later this month. For many years I have spent my holidays sampling
and surveying local waterbodies all over Australia looking at native fish
and habitats.

We have a nice range of native fishes suitable for aquarium use but most
overseas aquarists have only heard of rainbowfish and perhaps blue-eyes.

I think 6 species of Archerfish are now recognised worldwide and 4 are found
in Australia. The species from the Kimberley region (previously known as
Toxotes ologolepis) has a new name which I forget. Archers usually available
here are T.chatareus which is usually found in brackish and FW situations
with access to the sea. However there are some landlocked populations. As
far as I know breeding has not been done in captivity.

Cheers

Bruce (Hansen)

ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld.org.au/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Fairchild" <tim@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish


On Sun, 5 Nov 2006 10:34 am, Keri Kimball wrote:
> Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in the store.
> Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm reading, but
> then
> again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have some good info on
> Archer
> fish? I know they are chilids, and top dwellers. Yeah and they spit water
> which I would think would be neat to see. Any other help will be great.
> TIA

Not cichlids AFAIK. They are native to SE Asia and Australia, living in
fresh
and brackish water. Cool fish. Local to my area, but it's been a long time
since I've seen any in the wild due to the drought. Same with the local
rainbowfish :(

Although some rainbows (Melanotaenia splendida splendida) did come upstream
a
couple of wet seasons ago and I caught about 8. Still have most of them in
one tank doing well...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19541 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Mouth fungus
Does mouth "fungus" have to be treated via the tank water or can you
simply feed the infected fish bacterial medicated food?
(It's 130 gallons, it would be cheaper to feed them the food than it
would to treat the tank.)

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19542 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Apple snails for sale: Minneapolis, MN
Yeah I did send a note to the group. I'm actually a member, but I've only been to two meetings. I don't have a car and it's a little way from the bus, but I'm always just so exausted by the time I'm done with work that I just want to go home!
-Emily

On 11/3/06, Steve Szabo wrote:
>
> Is Roseville near you? You might want to check with the Minnesota
> Aquarium Society that meets in Roseville. Many clubs have mini auctions
> at the meetings, even if they do not, there may be a ready outlet for
> your snails.
>
> Their web site is at http://www.mn-aquarium.org/index2.html
>
> Unfortunately, the meeting this month was (quickly checking the time)
> last night.
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19543 From: cory Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: salt water
hello to all and to start i have a salt water tank with a few fish
starting out small let us know what you think aobut how to do things
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19544 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Uh... Haven't you read the literature that says putting ammonia in your fish tank is a bad thing? There are ways to get NATURAL ammonia... One is to take a piece of uncooked shrimp from your local grocery store and drop it in... Do water test... You tank will cycle on that... If you have to have fish immediately... Use goldfish... They'll throw it into a quick cycle... PLEASE... Do not put AMMONIA in your aquarium unless you are planning to raise nothing but rocks in it

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Cinde,

You're back! Hope that earthquake did not prove to be too much of a
hardship on you.

With marbles as a substrate, most of the biological filtration wa
probably done by the filter, so, if tha tis still damp, you may have a
shot at retaining the cycle without much work at all. Just keep the
filter media damp while you move and setup the tank and get it clean.
Once you have filled it, just get some plain ammonia (no additives) and
add enough to the tank to bring the ammonia level to 5 ppm. Measure it
again the next day and if it reads 0 ppm, then test for nitrites and if
they are also 0, you are good to go. If you have a reading of ammonia,
then add enough ammonia to bring back to the 5 ppm level again, and
repeat until your ammonia and nitrites read 0. Then you can transfer
your fish.

If you need to wait, you can spend the time planning the fish you will
add to the tank when you have it up and running.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bunnycareshi
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 5:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater

Aloha

One of my neighbors was getting rid of a 55gal,
complete w/filter and top. I just have a 10gal
freshwater w/a young Clown Loach, snail and pleco and
have been wanting to upgrade and continue adding just
small fish. Kinda hard to resist this, as the cost of
above (new) can be steep for me.

It was quite clean and had a bunch of large marbles on
the bottom as the substrate, and maybe a couple inches
of water remaining in it.

What is the minimal kind of cleaning/setting up I need
to do? I don't see the glass needing anymore than
light scrubbing. Do I have to keep cycling b/4 I add
my own fish, and if so, how many times? Any benefit to
add these "water conditioners" I see in stores?

Cinde, Hawaii






Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums


---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited Try it today.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19545 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Mouth fungus
Fungus is not a bacteria. It is a fungus, a whole other branch on the
tree of life. Treating with a bacterial food will not result in a cure.
You need to get yourself a small tank you can use for treating sick
fish. A 10 gallon is a good size and usually pretty inexpensive. You can
isolate the sick fish in the 10 gallon, and treat for whatever ails it.
In this particular case, mouth fungus.

Separating the ailing fish from the general population aids in the cure,
since it will not have the stress of other fish who may be picking on
him, you can provide the proper conditions for the cure without
affecting the rest of the fish, and you have taken a possible source of
disease out of your main tank making it less likely others will pick up
the ailment.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:28 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Mouth fungus

Does mouth "fungus" have to be treated via the tank water or can you
simply feed the infected fish bacterial medicated food?
(It's 130 gallons, it would be cheaper to feed them the food than it
would to treat the tank.)

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19546 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
In a message dated 11/5/2006 5:52:55 P.M. Central Standard Time,
wassergottin@... writes:

Uh... Haven't you read the literature that says putting ammonia in your fish
tank is a bad thing? There are ways to get NATURAL ammonia... One is to take
a piece of uncooked shrimp from your local grocery store and drop it in...
Do water test... You tank will cycle on that... If you have to have fish
immediately... Use goldfish... They'll throw it into a quick cycle... PLEASE... Do
not put AMMONIA in your aquarium unless you are planning to raise nothing
but rocks in it



******************************************************************************
**
I am one who has fishless cycled with bottled ammonia quite a few
times and in my opinion it works like a charm. I have never experienced any
fish losses this way. There are people with are for it and against it, I know,
but it can work if done exactly like instructed. I first learned about it on
a fish forum that is very pro fishless cycling. I just don't see why you
have to take the chance maybe killing some fish while your tank cycles, in my
opinion....if not with bottled ammonia or some other way to fishless cycle.
It took 34 days for my 55 gal to cycle just recently and I haven't lost one
fish.
Of course everyone has their own opinion on what is best....(((((c:
Deanna Cronan
Covington, Ga


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19547 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Hey guys I have a question for ya. Since these Archer fish need more brackish water I was thinking about going and getting a 5 gallon tank and setting it up for these 2 fish alone. Would this be big enough or shoul I go bigger. I watch and make sure they eat when I feed them. I'ma little concerned because one is hanging around the back morw than the other. I hope he is just shy.
Keri


----- Original Message ----
From: Bruce Hansen <toxotes@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 6:18:15 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish


G'day Tim

I'm from Queensland too! Presently recently retired in Lawnton and moving to
Cairns later this month. For many years I have spent my holidays sampling
and surveying local waterbodies all over Australia looking at native fish
and habitats.

We have a nice range of native fishes suitable for aquarium use but most
overseas aquarists have only heard of rainbowfish and perhaps blue-eyes.

I think 6 species of Archerfish are now recognised worldwide and 4 are found
in Australia. The species from the Kimberley region (previously known as
Toxotes ologolepis) has a new name which I forget. Archers usually available
here are T.chatareus which is usually found in brackish and FW situations
with access to the sea. However there are some landlocked populations. As
far as I know breeding has not been done in captivity.

Cheers

Bruce (Hansen)

ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld.org.au/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Fairchild" <tim@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish


On Sun, 5 Nov 2006 10:34 am, Keri Kimball wrote:
> Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in the store.
> Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm reading, but
> then
> again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have some good info on
> Archer
> fish? I know they are chilids, and top dwellers. Yeah and they spit water
> which I would think would be neat to see. Any other help will be great.
> TIA

Not cichlids AFAIK. They are native to SE Asia and Australia, living in
fresh
and brackish water. Cool fish. Local to my area, but it's been a long time
since I've seen any in the wild due to the drought. Same with the local
rainbowfish :(

Although some rainbows (Melanotaenia splendida splendida) did come upstream
a
couple of wet seasons ago and I caught about 8. Still have most of them in
one tank doing well...




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19548 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)
Hello Joseph, I believe that Taryn would like to know at what
temperature her Koi would live best at and thrive, not at the
temperature after which it would secumb. Koi are cold water fish
that will tolerate living under the ice in Winter at a temperature
just above feezing and do best in the mid to high 60o's at the most.
While they will tolerate higher temperatures for a short time, if
there is sufficient dissolved oxygen in the water, 90o is certainly
not their comfort range and is above the comfort range of many
tropical fishes. As such, common sense should tell you that these
extremes are just not suited to the well being of Koi, unless you
don't know what they require. If this is the case, please do not
just refer anyone to a site without explaining the full meaning of
what you're trying to point out as it can be misleading. I would
have to guess, just from what you're saying, that you have had no
practical experience with this species, so I don't understand why you
would venture giving advice on it. Unless the conditions are ideal,
Koi will perish at 90o, and even in ideal conditions, they would most
probably perish shortly above that (91o - 92o) and should not at all
be even thought of keeping near that temperature. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=908
> This would help. Their temp range is 36-90 degree F. The colder
they are the less waste they would produce. Although the temp in you
community tank is ok for them. Goldfish in general are a messy fish.
So hes going to produce more waste than your tankmates. Normally you
wouldnt put them in a tropical aquaim either. Goldfish need their own
tank because they thrive in colder waters. If you have live plants
they would eat them up. Now they do get big too. They are more for
the big ponds than a tank life. If you keep him in there Ill probalby
make sure you under feed them. Would have to do more volume on your
water changes like 15% - 20 % a week with a gravel cleaning syphon.
Good Luck.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: taryn frankenfurter <clasticrock4@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, November 4, 2006 12:14:56 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be
so)
>
> Hello everyone! I joined this group (and a few others) because i was
> hoping someone could help me out as i have won what i thought was a
> goldfish at the fair last night yet my roommate says because of it's
> little moustache that it may be a koi. Whether thisd is ignorant or
> not I agree that it is quite koi-like and have tried to find out all
> that i can because i have already placed it my 55 gallon thinking it
> was a goldfish. Yet i have not found any answers to my questions and
> am still trying to find a good gallery or koi identification page.
>
> I have 4 different gouramis, 2 corydoras and two plecos..
compatible?
>
> I was told to keep my water in the late 70's...too hot for a koi?
>
> Anyone who could help me with this would be greatly appreciated as i
> am completely lost and can not seem to find any help with a search
engine.
>
> Thanks!
>
> (sorry to those on the koilife list where i have also posted this
but
> i need all the help i can get!!!)
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19549 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Without researching the fish, but from what I vaguely recall, you probably would want to look at a 20 L for your archers. And that would be for a start. I believe that they get around 12" long when grown. You do want to provide them with as much surface area as you can.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Keri Kimball
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish

Hey guys I have a question for ya. Since these Archer fish need more brackish water I was thinking about going and getting a 5 gallon tank and setting it up for these 2 fish alone. Would this be big enough or shoul I go bigger. I watch and make sure they eat when I feed them. I'ma little concerned because one is hanging around the back morw than the other. I hope he is just shy.
Keri


----- Original Message ----
From: Bruce Hansen <toxotes@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 6:18:15 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish


G'day Tim

I'm from Queensland too! Presently recently retired in Lawnton and moving to
Cairns later this month. For many years I have spent my holidays sampling
and surveying local waterbodies all over Australia looking at native fish
and habitats.

We have a nice range of native fishes suitable for aquarium use but most
overseas aquarists have only heard of rainbowfish and perhaps blue-eyes.

I think 6 species of Archerfish are now recognised worldwide and 4 are found
in Australia. The species from the Kimberley region (previously known as
Toxotes ologolepis) has a new name which I forget. Archers usually available
here are T.chatareus which is usually found in brackish and FW situations
with access to the sea. However there are some landlocked populations. As
far as I know breeding has not been done in captivity.

Cheers

Bruce (Hansen)

ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld.org.au/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Fairchild" <tim@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish


On Sun, 5 Nov 2006 10:34 am, Keri Kimball wrote:
> Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in the store.
> Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm reading, but
> then
> again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have some good info on
> Archer
> fish? I know they are chilids, and top dwellers. Yeah and they spit water
> which I would think would be neat to see. Any other help will be great.
> TIA

Not cichlids AFAIK. They are native to SE Asia and Australia, living in
fresh
and brackish water. Cool fish. Local to my area, but it's been a long time
since I've seen any in the wild due to the drought. Same with the local
rainbowfish :(

Although some rainbows (Melanotaenia splendida splendida) did come upstream
a
couple of wet seasons ago and I caught about 8. Still have most of them in
one tank doing well...




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19550 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Keri

They grow to 30cm+ in nature - probably 2/3 that in captivity, so a "5"
wouldn't do for long. As in many of our aquarium fish there is a definite
bullying/pecking order in Archers and many of the members of our native fish
group that keep them keep them singly or in groups of 3 or more to reduce
the bullying pressure on the smaller/weaker/shyer individuals.

Even though they are often seen in groups in nature the bigger, quicker,
stronger, more aggressive individuals get more of the food. Archers are
quite intelligent and although the water "bullets" are usually described as
aerial one of our members has observed archerfish firing water behind rocks
and wood in the tank to dislodge shrimp that were hiding from him in a place
too small for thew archer to enter. They have a surprisingly large mouth and
don't mind a smaller fish for "dinner".

They can also be trained to "spit" for their food and I recall one owner
training his archer to dowse cigarettes when smokers leaned over the tank
when the coverglasses were removed. In warm areas they make great pond fish
and arranging an overhanging branch with LED lights or a bait-station to
attract insects supplies food supplements and entertainment.

They are amazingly accurate - not only in shooting down their targets but
also in calculating where it will fall before other fish in the tank can get
there. This is no mean feat when we consider the way light "bends at the
interface between air and water.

Reptile and bird live food suppliers usually have meal worms and crickets to
supplement the usual fishfoods.

Cheers

Bruce (Hansen)

ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld.org.au/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keri Kimball" <kiwi762@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish


Hey guys I have a question for ya. Since these Archer fish need more
brackish water I was thinking about going and getting a 5 gallon tank and
setting it up for these 2 fish alone. Would this be big enough or shoul I go
bigger. I watch and make sure they eat when I feed them. I'ma little
concerned because one is hanging around the back morw than the other. I hope
he is just shy.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19551 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Cycling with bottled ammonia-read here
_Fishless Cycling - Tropical Fish Forums_
(http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861)


This is on the forum -fishforums.net....for those of you who may want to
read up on how to safely fishless cycle your tank with bottled ammonia.
Deanna Cronan
Covington, GA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19552 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Mouth fungus
Leslie, Yes, Mouth Fungus needs to be treated via the tank water.
Despite the misleading name of Mouth "Fungus," this is really a
bacterial infection -- Columnaris (Flexibacter), and should be treated
with antibiotics dissolved in the aquarium water. If you can isolate
the fish to a smaller quarantine tank, it would be much cheaper to
administer the meds needed. The antibiotic of choice depends in part
upon what your hardness and pH is. Excellent results are obtained
using Tetracycline hydrochloride, but this medication loses its effect
above pH 7.5. Oxytetracycline hydrochloride is good for pH up to 8.0.
Additionally, these medications bind with calcium and magnesium in hard
water. Good results are also had with Nitrofurazone (Furan 2), but
here again this medication too loses its potency with high pH. This is
not to say that these medications can't be effectively used; they just
have to be redosed more frequently. A good bacticide of choice for
this disease in alkaline water is Kanamycin sulfate (Kanaplus). Prompt
treatment of this fast progressing disease is highly recommended as it
can soon eat away the fleshy mouth parts if allowed to linger. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Does mouth "fungus" have to be treated via the tank water or can you
> simply feed the infected fish bacterial medicated food?
> (It's 130 gallons, it would be cheaper to feed them the food than it
> would to treat the tank.)
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19553 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Yeah but is all ammonia safe. If not there has to be some clarification as to which ones or one to use. Otherwiase ppl are just going to buy anything.


----- Original Message ----
From: "ItsmeDeanna64@..." <ItsmeDeanna64@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 7:09:01 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater


In a message dated 11/5/2006 5:52:55 P.M. Central Standard Time,
wassergottin@ yahoo.com writes:

Uh... Haven't you read the literature that says putting ammonia in your fish
tank is a bad thing? There are ways to get NATURAL ammonia... One is to take
a piece of uncooked shrimp from your local grocery store and drop it in...
Do water test... You tank will cycle on that... If you have to have fish
immediately. .. Use goldfish... They'll throw it into a quick cycle... PLEASE... Do
not put AMMONIA in your aquarium unless you are planning to raise nothing
but rocks in it

************ ********* ********* ********* ********* ********* ********* ********* ***
**
I am one who has fishless cycled with bottled ammonia quite a few
times and in my opinion it works like a charm. I have never experienced any
fish losses this way. There are people with are for it and against it, I know,
but it can work if done exactly like instructed. I first learned about it on
a fish forum that is very pro fishless cycling. I just don't see why you
have to take the chance maybe killing some fish while your tank cycles, in my
opinion....if not with bottled ammonia or some other way to fishless cycle.
It took 34 days for my 55 gal to cycle just recently and I haven't lost one
fish.
Of course everyone has their own opinion on what is best....(((( (c:
Deanna Cronan
Covington, Ga

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19554 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Mouth fungus
Bacterial foods treats only bacterial infection. Fungus is not a bacterial infection.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...>
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 6:28:26 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Mouth fungus

Does mouth "fungus" have to be treated via the tank water or can you
simply feed the infected fish bacterial medicated food?
(It's 130 gallons, it would be cheaper to feed them the food than it
would to treat the tank.)

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19555 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Archers can get to a foot big. Ill go with a 55 gallon at least but it would be crowed and hard to move in there. The website i was on said 100 gallon tank. Good Luck.


----- Original Message ----
From: Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 7:15:59 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish

Hey guys I have a question for ya. Since these Archer fish need more brackish water I was thinking about going and getting a 5 gallon tank and setting it up for these 2 fish alone. Would this be big enough or shoul I go bigger. I watch and make sure they eat when I feed them. I'ma little concerned because one is hanging around the back morw than the other. I hope he is just shy.
Keri

----- Original Message ----
From: Bruce Hansen <toxotes@australis. net>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 6:18:15 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish

G'day Tim

I'm from Queensland too! Presently recently retired in Lawnton and moving to
Cairns later this month. For many years I have spent my holidays sampling
and surveying local waterbodies all over Australia looking at native fish
and habitats.

We have a nice range of native fishes suitable for aquarium use but most
overseas aquarists have only heard of rainbowfish and perhaps blue-eyes.

I think 6 species of Archerfish are now recognised worldwide and 4 are found
in Australia. The species from the Kimberley region (previously known as
Toxotes ologolepis) has a new name which I forget. Archers usually available
here are T.chatareus which is usually found in brackish and FW situations
with access to the sea. However there are some landlocked populations. As
far as I know breeding has not been done in captivity.

Cheers

Bruce (Hansen)

ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld .org.au/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Fairchild" <tim@...>
To: <AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish

On Sun, 5 Nov 2006 10:34 am, Keri Kimball wrote:
> Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in the store.
> Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm reading, but
> then
> again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have some good info on
> Archer
> fish? I know they are chilids, and top dwellers. Yeah and they spit water
> which I would think would be neat to see. Any other help will be great.
> TIA

Not cichlids AFAIK. They are native to SE Asia and Australia, living in
fresh
and brackish water. Cool fish. Local to my area, but it's been a long time
since I've seen any in the wild due to the drought. Same with the local
rainbowfish :(

Although some rainbows (Melanotaenia splendida splendida) did come upstream
a
couple of wet seasons ago and I caught about 8. Still have most of them in
one tank doing well...

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19556 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/5/2006
Subject: Re: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)
Well I gave the temperater range in a pond sorry but did say thrive better in colder waters.

----- Original Message ----
From: Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 7:32:48 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be so)

Hello Joseph, I believe that Taryn would like to know at what
temperature her Koi would live best at and thrive, not at the
temperature after which it would secumb. Koi are cold water fish
that will tolerate living under the ice in Winter at a temperature
just above feezing and do best in the mid to high 60o's at the most.
While they will tolerate higher temperatures for a short time, if
there is sufficient dissolved oxygen in the water, 90o is certainly
not their comfort range and is above the comfort range of many
tropical fishes. As such, common sense should tell you that these
extremes are just not suited to the well being of Koi, unless you
don't know what they require. If this is the case, please do not
just refer anyone to a site without explaining the full meaning of
what you're trying to point out as it can be misleading. I would
have to guess, just from what you're saying, that you have had no
practical experience with this species, so I don't understand why you
would venture giving advice on it. Unless the conditions are ideal,
Koi will perish at 90o, and even in ideal conditions, they would most
probably perish shortly above that (91o - 92o) and should not at all
be even thought of keeping near that temperature. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ ...>
wrote:
>
> http://www.liveaqua ria.com/product/ prod_Display. cfm?pCatId= 908
> This would help. Their temp range is 36-90 degree F. The colder
they are the less waste they would produce. Although the temp in you
community tank is ok for them. Goldfish in general are a messy fish.
So hes going to produce more waste than your tankmates. Normally you
wouldnt put them in a tropical aquaim either. Goldfish need their own
tank because they thrive in colder waters. If you have live plants
they would eat them up. Now they do get big too. They are more for
the big ponds than a tank life. If you keep him in there Ill probalby
make sure you under feed them. Would have to do more volume on your
water changes like 15% - 20 % a week with a gravel cleaning syphon.
Good Luck.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: taryn frankenfurter <clasticrock4@ ...>
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Saturday, November 4, 2006 12:14:56 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] air fish a koi? (seems unlikley but may be
so)
>
> Hello everyone! I joined this group (and a few others) because i was
> hoping someone could help me out as i have won what i thought was a
> goldfish at the fair last night yet my roommate says because of it's
> little moustache that it may be a koi. Whether thisd is ignorant or
> not I agree that it is quite koi-like and have tried to find out all
> that i can because i have already placed it my 55 gallon thinking it
> was a goldfish. Yet i have not found any answers to my questions and
> am still trying to find a good gallery or koi identification page.
>
> I have 4 different gouramis, 2 corydoras and two plecos..
compatible?
>
> I was told to keep my water in the late 70's...too hot for a koi?
>
> Anyone who could help me with this would be greatly appreciated as i
> am completely lost and can not seem to find any help with a search
engine.
>
> Thanks!
>
> (sorry to those on the koilife list where i have also posted this
but
> i need all the help i can get!!!)
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19557 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: bottled ammonia to use for cycling
In a message dated 11/6/2006 1:02:32 A.M. Central Standard Time,
jrreid3rd1@... writes:

Yeah but is all ammonia safe. If not there has to be some clarification as
to which ones or one to use. Otherwiase ppl are just going to buy anything.




*************************************************************************
You use pure household bottled ammonia with NO sudsing agents in it. I
was told when you shake the bottle, make sure it doesn't bubble. I found
mine at my Kroger.
Deanna Cronan
Covington, GA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19558 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
What I have described is a tried and true method of establishing a cycle
without the fish. Why go to all the trouble of introducing a source that
may produce ammonia over time, and at a level that is not stable? By
introducing ammonia straight into the tank, you can bring the level to a
certain point and maintain that point while the cycle establishes
itself. What you need to watch for is that you get straight ammonia, not
one that has been treated with deodorants to cut the odor, or has had
detergent or other cleaners added to it.


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19559 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
Use of plain ammonia is an accepted method for fishless cycling.

I have used it myself to keep a cycled tank going when it was without fish for a period of several weeks.

That same tank went on to successfully house 18 Malawi cichlids for the past year.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19560 From: Cory Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Cloudy Tank
I have a new 10-gallon tank with my betta in it. It has been up and running for over a month. The water
had been crystal clear until last week and over night turned cloudy. I have tried Jungle "Algae Fix" and
another product we got at the pet store called "Crystal Clear". So far neither has helped the water. Any
other suggestions? Thanks, Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19561 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
I think of using ammonia in a tank rather like using chemical
fertilizers. IF you know what you're doing and follow the
instructions, it works fine. IF you don't, you can ruin your tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19562 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
cory
is this tank by a window or are you feeding to much?

Cory <wdwwife@...> wrote:
I have a new 10-gallon tank with my betta in it. It has been up and running for over a month. The water
had been crystal clear until last week and over night turned cloudy. I have tried Jungle "Algae Fix" and
another product we got at the pet store called "Crystal Clear". So far neither has helped the water. Any
other suggestions? Thanks, Cory






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19563 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Not by a window and feed just a few granules of betta food in the morning......


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19564 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Mouth fungus/Joseph
The fungus on the mouth is a bacteria. That's why I asked about
treating it internally. I wasn't sure if it would work but I did know
it was bacterial.

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 12:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Mouth fungus



Bacterial foods treats only bacterial infection. Fungus is not a
bacterial infection.

----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge.
<mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net>
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 6:28:26 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Mouth fungus

Does mouth "fungus" have to be treated via the tank water or can you
simply feed the infected fish bacterial medicated food?
(It's 130 gallons, it would be cheaper to feed them the food than it
would to treat the tank.)

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19565 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Mouth fungus
The 20 gal is up and ready to go. (Unfortunately it's my bedroom.)
In it will go SIX Boesemani rainbows. These are those that I purchased
at Wal-Mart, poor things! I really look forward to getting them well.
I think they will look fabulous in the 130 in the living room.
I've even managed to get 3 large sword plants into the 130 despite my
beloved, digging blood parrots. I've also laid some banana plants
around hoping they will root themselves. Since they sink on their own,
I'm thinking this might work for them.
I have some jungle val in there as well, I'm not sure how that will go
yet.
Thank you again Ray.

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 9:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Mouth fungus



Leslie, Yes, Mouth Fungus needs to be treated via the tank water.
Despite the misleading name of Mouth "Fungus," this is really a
bacterial infection -- Columnaris (Flexibacter), and should be treated
with antibiotics dissolved in the aquarium water. If you can isolate
the fish to a smaller quarantine tank, it would be much cheaper to
administer the meds needed. The antibiotic of choice depends in part
upon what your hardness and pH is. Excellent results are obtained
using Tetracycline hydrochloride, but this medication loses its effect
above pH 7.5. Oxytetracycline hydrochloride is good for pH up to 8.0.
Additionally, these medications bind with calcium and magnesium in hard
water. Good results are also had with Nitrofurazone (Furan 2), but
here again this medication too loses its potency with high pH. This is
not to say that these medications can't be effectively used; they just
have to be redosed more frequently. A good bacticide of choice for
this disease in alkaline water is Kanamycin sulfate (Kanaplus). Prompt
treatment of this fast progressing disease is highly recommended as it
can soon eat away the fleshy mouth parts if allowed to linger. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Does mouth "fungus" have to be treated via the tank water or can you
> simply feed the infected fish bacterial medicated food?
> (It's 130 gallons, it would be cheaper to feed them the food than it
> would to treat the tank.)
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19566 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
I am really intrigued by the cycling a tank w/ ammonia. Why is it that
you don't hear of this very often? I've spent OODLES of money on
BioSpira to cycle tanks and all the while I could have purchased a
bottle of ammonia?!
How annoying! lol (But also GREAT to know.)

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater



Use of plain ammonia is an accepted method for fishless cycling.

I have used it myself to keep a cycled tank going when it was without
fish for a period of several weeks.

That same tank went on to successfully house 18 Malawi cichlids for the
past year.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19567 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Honestly, instead of adding all those chemicals I would sit and wait it
out. It's likely not doing any harm, much less than adding chemicals
anyway.
Is it like a cloud cloudy or a green cloudy? If it isn't green, I
wouldn't think it to be algae.
=)
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 7:02 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Tank



I have a new 10-gallon tank with my betta in it. It has been up and
running for over a month. The water
had been crystal clear until last week and over night turned cloudy. I
have tried Jungle "Algae Fix" and
another product we got at the pet store called "Crystal Clear". So far
neither has helped the water. Any
other suggestions? Thanks, Cory







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19568 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
5 gallons are a waste of time... you need at least 10!

--- Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...> wrote:

> Hey guys I have a question for ya. Since these
> Archer fish need more brackish water I was thinking
> about going and getting a 5 gallon tank and setting
> it up for these 2 fish alone. Would this be big
> enough or shoul I go bigger. I watch and make sure
> they eat when I feed them. I'ma little concerned
> because one is hanging around the back morw than the
> other. I hope he is just shy.
> Keri
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Bruce Hansen <toxotes@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 6:18:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish
>
>
> G'day Tim
>
> I'm from Queensland too! Presently recently retired
> in Lawnton and moving to
> Cairns later this month. For many years I have spent
> my holidays sampling
> and surveying local waterbodies all over Australia
> looking at native fish
> and habitats.
>
> We have a nice range of native fishes suitable for
> aquarium use but most
> overseas aquarists have only heard of rainbowfish
> and perhaps blue-eyes.
>
> I think 6 species of Archerfish are now recognised
> worldwide and 4 are found
> in Australia. The species from the Kimberley region
> (previously known as
> Toxotes ologolepis) has a new name which I forget.
> Archers usually available
> here are T.chatareus which is usually found in
> brackish and FW situations
> with access to the sea. However there are some
> landlocked populations. As
> far as I know breeding has not been done in
> captivity.
>
> Cheers
>
> Bruce (Hansen)
>
> ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld.org.au/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Fairchild" <tim@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 8:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish
>
>
> On Sun, 5 Nov 2006 10:34 am, Keri Kimball wrote:
> > Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2
> Archer Fish in the store.
> > Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the
> fun, I'm reading, but
> > then
> > again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have
> some good info on
> > Archer
> > fish? I know they are chilids, and top dwellers.
> Yeah and they spit water
> > which I would think would be neat to see. Any
> other help will be great.
> > TIA
>
> Not cichlids AFAIK. They are native to SE Asia and
> Australia, living in
> fresh
> and brackish water. Cool fish. Local to my area, but
> it's been a long time
> since I've seen any in the wild due to the drought.
> Same with the local
> rainbowfish :(
>
> Although some rainbows (Melanotaenia splendida
> splendida) did come upstream
> a
> couple of wet seasons ago and I caught about 8.
> Still have most of them in
> one tank doing well...
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19569 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
How long do you leave the light on it? Have you done a water change resently? Any other fish in there?

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote: Not by a window and feed just a few granules of betta food in the morning......

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19570 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
It's just cloudy......no color to it.........kinda like the cloudy if you use really light colored gravel and don't wash it real well, but ours is dark and it was washed really well.....so it's not the gravel.....

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19571 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Light stays on all day, off at night......no other fish......tank was just filled about 3 weeks ago when new.......haven't taken any out and put fresh in yet....

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19572 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
cory I feed my bettas and all of my fish every other day that is enough with everything else in the tank. But like the other person said just let it go don't add chem. maybe do a small water change
Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote:
It's just cloudy......no color to it.........kinda like the cloudy if you use really light colored gravel and don't wash it real well, but ours is dark and it was washed really well.....so it's not the gravel.....

---------------------------------
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---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19573 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Java Moss & Hydrophila wanted
Does anyone have any java moss or hydrophila (spelling?) to let go of?
I can't find it here. I'll gladly pay for the plants and shipping.
I'm looking for 2-3 bunches of java moss or a medium to large bunch
that can be split. Hydrophila, I'm looking to put it in a 29 gallon
tank so I don't need much.
For the 29 gallon, the lights are standard so I will gladly take any
other plants that can grow in the low lighting.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19574 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Did you cycle the tank before you added the beta or did you add water
and the fish at the same time?
It might be part of the cycle...bacteria "bloom" (with only 1 fish
though?)
Either way, if the fish is acting healthy, I wouldn't worry too much.
Do you have a test kit where you can test the water for ammonia,
nitrates & nitrites? (If you don't, take some water to your fish store
and ask them to test it.)
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 10:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Tank



Light stays on all day, off at night......no other fish......tank was
just filled about 3 weeks ago when new.......haven't taken any out and
put fresh in yet....

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19575 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
I can do the ammonia test.........Skippy seems very happy in his new home.....he is the one all of you helped me save from bubble eye......he's in 10 gallons all alone and seems to love it.....it's just cloudy.....thanks for all of the help......I'll let it rest for several days and then see what happens.....I do have the ick med to try if it doesn't clear......

---------------------------------
Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19576 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
Yeah I saw that 100 gallon snipet also. I have 2 55's, one has my livebearers, and the other one is filled with Candied Parrot fish, ans I have a 10 gallon of babies. The babies may start becoming dinner here soon. Don't know what else to do with them. Another thing I have noticed is the fish only grow about as large as they can. I have several different sizes of parrots because there is so many. Maybe the Archer's won't get to big. The Archer's are starting to come up to the front on the tank when I go to feed, maybe soon I can get them to spit at the food in my hand.

Oh there is one other question I have. Has anyone here tried maggots (that you know what they eat) to feed to your chilids?

Keri



----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 2:04:29 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish


Archers can get to a foot big. Ill go with a 55 gallon at least but it would be crowed and hard to move in there. The website i was on said 100 gallon tank. Good Luck.


----- Original Message ----
From: Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 7:15:59 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish

Hey guys I have a question for ya. Since these Archer fish need more brackish water I was thinking about going and getting a 5 gallon tank and setting it up for these 2 fish alone. Would this be big enough or shoul I go bigger. I watch and make sure they eat when I feed them. I'ma little concerned because one is hanging around the back morw than the other. I hope he is just shy.
Keri

----- Original Message ----
From: Bruce Hansen <toxotes@australis. net>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2006 6:18:15 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish

G'day Tim

I'm from Queensland too! Presently recently retired in Lawnton and moving to
Cairns later this month. For many years I have spent my holidays sampling
and surveying local waterbodies all over Australia looking at native fish
and habitats.

We have a nice range of native fishes suitable for aquarium use but most
overseas aquarists have only heard of rainbowfish and perhaps blue-eyes.

I think 6 species of Archerfish are now recognised worldwide and 4 are found
in Australia. The species from the Kimberley region (previously known as
Toxotes ologolepis) has a new name which I forget. Archers usually available
here are T.chatareus which is usually found in brackish and FW situations
with access to the sea. However there are some landlocked populations. As
far as I know breeding has not been done in captivity.

Cheers

Bruce (Hansen)

ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld .org.au/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Fairchild" <tim@...>
To: <AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish

On Sun, 5 Nov 2006 10:34 am, Keri Kimball wrote:
> Hey all, I just finally for the first time saw 2 Archer Fish in the store.
> Ok I had no self control, I bought them. Now the fun, I'm reading, but
> then
> again I know breeders are better. Does anyone have some good info on
> Archer
> fish? I know they are chilids, and top dwellers. Yeah and they spit water
> which I would think would be neat to see. Any other help will be great.
> TIA

Not cichlids AFAIK. They are native to SE Asia and Australia, living in
fresh
and brackish water. Cool fish. Local to my area, but it's been a long time
since I've seen any in the wild due to the drought. Same with the local
rainbowfish :(

Although some rainbows (Melanotaenia splendida splendida) did come upstream
a
couple of wet seasons ago and I caught about 8. Still have most of them in
one tank doing well...

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19577 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Cory
I hate Chem. manily if you ever get ick I highly recommand aquarium salt it is so much healthier for fish

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote:
I can do the ammonia test.........Skippy seems very happy in his new home.....he is the one all of you helped me save from bubble eye......he's in 10 gallons all alone and seems to love it.....it's just cloudy.....thanks for all of the help......I'll let it rest for several days and then see what happens.....I do have the ick med to try if it doesn't clear......

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19578 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
I would do a 10% water change and turn the light out sooner 8 hours a day tops

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote: Light stays on all day, off at night......no other fish......tank was just filled about 3 weeks ago when new.......haven't taken any out and put fresh in yet....

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19579 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss & Hydrophila wanted
Java fern or Anubuis would also be great for low light let me take a look at my Java moss and see if I can help you out I just put some in its own 10 gal tank and it was going crazy but BRo inlaw came over and took some so I'm not sure what I still have

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote: Does anyone have any java moss or hydrophila (spelling?) to let go of?
I can't find it here. I'll gladly pay for the plants and shipping.
I'm looking for 2-3 bunches of java moss or a medium to large bunch
that can be split. Hydrophila, I'm looking to put it in a 29 gallon
tank so I don't need much.
For the 29 gallon, the lights are standard so I will gladly take any
other plants that can grow in the low lighting.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19580 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
It is called new tank syndrome it happens with new tanks. It would clear up on its own. ITs a bacterial bloom so they should settle down sometimes it take a couple of weeks. You added the clear up that would help too.


----- Original Message ----
From: Cory <wdwwife@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 8:01:56 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Tank

I have a new 10-gallon tank with my betta in it. It has been up and running for over a month. The water
had been crystal clear until last week and over night turned cloudy. I have tried Jungle "Algae Fix" and
another product we got at the pet store called "Crystal Clear". So far neither has helped the water. Any
other suggestions? Thanks, Cory






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19581 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss & Hygrophila wanted
Thanks Chad.
I have anubuis and I am looking to get some petites as well. I have a
guy that I trust that sells the java fern, I just haven't ordered it
yet. I want to see how the longer plants do first then I will start
adding the smaller things.
Thanks again. =)
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Chad Plum
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 1:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Java Moss & Hydrophila wanted



Java fern or Anubuis would also be great for low light let me take a
look at my Java moss and see if I can help you out I just put some in
its own 10 gal tank and it was going crazy but BRo inlaw came over and
took some so I'm not sure what I still have

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net>
net> wrote: Does anyone have any java moss or hydrophila (spelling?) to
let go of?
I can't find it here. I'll gladly pay for the plants and shipping.
I'm looking for 2-3 bunches of java moss or a medium to large bunch
that can be split. Hydrophila, I'm looking to put it in a 29 gallon
tank so I don't need much.
For the 29 gallon, the lights are standard so I will gladly take any
other plants that can grow in the low lighting.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19582 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
You mention he's all alone, if you're interested in getting him a tank
mate you might try a molly.
A friend of mine added one into her 10 gallon w/ a beta and they are now
big time buddies. They even sleep under the driftwood together. =)
Just a thought.
Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 12:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Tank



I can do the ammonia test.........Skippy seems very happy in his new
home.....he is the one all of you helped me save from bubble
eye......he's in 10 gallons all alone and seems to love it.....it's just
cloudy.....thanks for all of the help......I'll let it rest for several
days and then see what happens.....I do have the ick med to try if it
doesn't clear......

---------------------------------
Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and
get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19583 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Thank you so much for this information........I was kinda worried about it until I got all this help.......

---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19584 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Thanks for that idea. We put 2 red eye tetras in yesterday and it wasn't a good match. He seems okay by himself, but looks awfully lonely to me.......he's getting pretty big being in that size environment, but he's really healthy....

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19585 From: Cory Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Skippy
Skippy
Here are pics of the betta, Skippy, we have been talking about.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wdwwife/detail?.dir=/d7f4scd&.dnm=4874re2.jpg&.src=ph&.tok=ph7CkxFBzxxIq0B4


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19586 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Just remember that a lot of fish like to nip at their fins. Mollys are semi aggresive fish too. Good Luck.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 3:04:23 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Tank

You mention he's all alone, if you're interested in getting him a tank
mate you might try a molly.
A friend of mine added one into her 10 gallon w/ a beta and they are now
big time buddies. They even sleep under the driftwood together. =)
Just a thought.
Leslie
<http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/CabotWomen sClub/?yguid= 239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 12:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Tank

I can do the ammonia test........ .Skippy seems very happy in his new
home.....he is the one all of you helped me save from bubble
eye......he' s in 10 gallons all alone and seems to love it.....it's just
cloudy.....thanks for all of the help......I' ll let it rest for several
days and then see what happens..... I do have the ick med to try if it
doesn't clear......

------------ --------- --------- ---
Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and
get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19587 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
Thanks.......we thought about little neons for him........we put a placo in with another betta we had and they ended killing each other......I'm kinda "gun shy" now on another fishie

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19588 From: Kevin Batey Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
I've had real good luck with neons and one male betta - but they all have different personalities.

Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote: Thanks.......we thought about little neons for him........we put a placo in with another betta we had and they ended killing each other......I'm kinda "gun shy" now on another fishie

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19589 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Tank
He displayed at these yesterday and acted a little agressive toward them so we took them out. I didn't want to take a chance on him hurting them or vice versa.......he did seem interested in them, though.

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19590 From: tommy thompson Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss & Hydrophila wanted
Hey
Im in Dupont Wa. Where are you? I do have some java moss I could give.

Tommy

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...> wrote:
Does anyone have any java moss or hydrophila (spelling?) to let go of?
I can't find it here. I'll gladly pay for the plants and shipping.
I'm looking for 2-3 bunches of java moss or a medium to large bunch
that can be split. Hydrophila, I'm looking to put it in a 29 gallon
tank so I don't need much.
For the 29 gallon, the lights are standard so I will gladly take any
other plants that can grow in the low lighting.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19591 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss & Hydrophila wanted
I'm in Arkansas.
Shipped in a plastic bag via priority, I've had great luck in having
plants shipped. Most have had a wet paper towel wrapped around the
roots.

=)
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of tommy thompson
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 3:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Java Moss & Hydrophila wanted



Hey
Im in Dupont Wa. Where are you? I do have some java moss I could give.

Tommy

Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net>
net> wrote:
Does anyone have any java moss or hydrophila (spelling?) to let go of?
I can't find it here. I'll gladly pay for the plants and shipping.
I'm looking for 2-3 bunches of java moss or a medium to large bunch
that can be split. Hydrophila, I'm looking to put it in a 29 gallon
tank so I don't need much.
For the 29 gallon, the lights are standard so I will gladly take any
other plants that can grow in the low lighting.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19592 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
BIG difference. BioSpira is instant, ammonia takes just as long as cycling
with fish (approx 8 weeks). It just duplicates the ammonia waste a fish
would give off, without the fish.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 10:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater



I am really intrigued by the cycling a tank w/ ammonia. Why is it that
you don't hear of this very often? I've spent OODLES of money on
BioSpira to cycle tanks and all the while I could have purchased a
bottle of ammonia?!
How annoying! lol (But also GREAT to know.)

Leslie
<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater

Use of plain ammonia is an accepted method for fishless cycling.

I have used it myself to keep a cycled tank going when it was without
fish for a period of several weeks.

That same tank went on to successfully house 18 Malawi cichlids for the
past year.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19593 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater
The point of using ammonia is to cycle a tank without fish. The point of
using Bio-Spira is to speed up the cycle. You could use Bio-Spira with
the ammonia to cycle without fish and speed the cycle up.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 10:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater

I am really intrigued by the cycling a tank w/ ammonia. Why is it that
you don't hear of this very often? I've spent OODLES of money on
BioSpira to cycle tanks and all the while I could have purchased a
bottle of ammonia?!
How annoying! lol (But also GREAT to know.)

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] "?"'s re Setting up used 55 gal freshwater



Use of plain ammonia is an accepted method for fishless cycling.

I have used it myself to keep a cycled tank going when it was without
fish for a period of several weeks.

That same tank went on to successfully house 18 Malawi cichlids for the
past year.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19594 From: momofholly2002 Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: ? about salt
Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank? If
so how? If not how much is safe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19595 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
salt is good for Goldfish all depends on what size tank buy aquarium salt and it will tell you how much to use

momofholly2002 <marian816@...> wrote: Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank? If
so how? If not how much is safe?






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19596 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
remember the 1g per 1" of fish rule...

--- Steve Szabo wrote:

> Without researching the fish, but from what I
> vaguely recall, you probably would want to look at a
> 20 L for your archers. And that would be for a
> start. I believe that they get around 12" long when
> grown. You do want to provide them with as much
> surface area as you can.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19597 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
I would not keep salt in a tank on a consistent basis, unless there was some need to do so. While a small amount will not hurt your fish, if you do need a treatment requiring salt, you will need to increase the amount to more than would otherwise be necessary.

Salt is definitely worth while to use. One needs to use it only when indicated.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of momofholly2002
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 8:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ? about salt

Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank? If
so how? If not how much is safe?




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19598 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/6/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
While that rule is pretty much useless, even as a rule of thumb, it is
deeply ingrained in hobbyist lore. You ay also note that I mentioned a
20L for a start. It is perfectly acceptable to start with a tank smaller
than the full grown fish would require, but one must increase the tank
size as the fish grows.

I also noticed in an earlier post, but did not comment at the time,
about fish growing only to a size the tank can accommodate. This does
happen, to a certain extent, but only to the detriment of the fish. Poor
water quality, poor diet, lack of water changes are contributors to
this. While the fish is stunted, its life is definitely shortened.

The reason for the stunting are proven, but I am not going to go into
the whys and wherefores now. There is a relatively famous photo of trout
(I believe) grown in a pipe. The reason for the success of this stunt
(experiment) was that fresh water was continually pumped through the
cylinder. A continuous water change of sorts.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Melissa Laing
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 11:03 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Archer Fish

remember the 1g per 1" of fish rule...

--- Steve Szabo wrote:

> Without researching the fish, but from what I
> vaguely recall, you probably would want to look at a
> 20 L for your archers. And that would be for a
> start. I believe that they get around 12" long when
> grown. You do want to provide them with as much
> surface area as you can.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19599 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
No salt is good for all fish. There is a freshwater aquaium salt that you can add. One teaspoon per gallon is sufficent. Some ppl use sea salt that measurement is one teaspoon per five gallons just be careful with that one over salting on that one can hurt them.


----- Original Message ----
From: momofholly2002 <marian816@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 8:15:06 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] ? about salt

Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank? If
so how? If not how much is safe?






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19600 From: momofholly2002 Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Thanks all for the info.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> No salt is good for all fish. There is a freshwater aquaium salt
that you can add. One teaspoon per gallon is sufficent. Some ppl use
sea salt that measurement is one teaspoon per five gallons just be
careful with that one over salting on that one can hurt them.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: momofholly2002 <marian816@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 8:15:06 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ? about salt
>
> Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank?
If
> so how? If not how much is safe?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19601 From: Pam Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta
Hi all! I am new at having Fry of any kind. I have a 10 gallon
divided tank with pump but no heater at work with 2 bettas and a MM
platy.

I noticed in the last few days that the platy was pregnant so I got
one of the breeder tanks and isolated her yesterday. Today I have
fry!

I've taken her out and she's back in with her tankmate, my nice male
betta Smuckers. Here's where my questions start, lol.

Do I need to keep the fry isolated till bigger? If so, how long?
Will momma and Smuckers eat them? Do I continue to just feed the
fry flake only crush it or feed them something special? And do I
need to put in a heater now that there are fry? And if so, how will
it affect my bettas?

Thanks for any and all help.

Pam
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19602 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
On Tue, 7 Nov 2006 11:15 am, momofholly2002 wrote:
> Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank? If
> so how? If not how much is safe?

I'm sure the guys are right in saying that salt is better not kept in the
tank, however I am a long term salt user her with many fish types (although
goldfish are a new one in the house).

I live in tropical Australia and have had no luck in keeping a salt free tank
over the years. I did try it again this year to reduce salt gradually, but as
the weather warmed the rainbows again were suffering sever fungus. So back
went the salt and cleared that up. It appears to be a bad place for this
problem here. Perhaps it's the heat, I don't know...

But anyway, because of that I have used salt for long term periods without any
major issues. At least with a lot less issues than I get without salt...

I run the tanks continuously with 2 grams per litre of sea salt, which means i
measure water changes an top up with the right amount of salt. I'm on a farm
so I tend to use the course salt I use with the cattle. I have rainbowfish,
gudgeon (brackish?), tetra, gourami, cory, guppy, and now goldfish thanks to
my wife (another story)...

I don't use charcoal and I don't use any chemicals in the tanks. Just salt.

So far no issue with the comets and fantails as yet, but I'll let you know :)

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19603 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
What kind of filtration do you use?


> I'm sure the guys are right in saying that salt is
> better not kept in the
> tank, however I am a long term salt user her with
> many fish types (although
> goldfish are a new one in the house).
>
> I live in tropical Australia and have had no luck in
> keeping a salt free tank
> over the years. I did try it again this year to
> reduce salt gradually, but as
> the weather warmed the rainbows again were suffering
> sever fungus. So back
> went the salt and cleared that up. It appears to be
> a bad place for this
> problem here. Perhaps it's the heat, I don't know...
>
> But anyway, because of that I have used salt for
> long term periods without any
> major issues. At least with a lot less issues than I
> get without salt...
>
> I run the tanks continuously with 2 grams per litre
> of sea salt, which means i
> measure water changes an top up with the right
> amount of salt. I'm on a farm
> so I tend to use the course salt I use with the
> cattle. I have rainbowfish,
> gudgeon (brackish?), tetra, gourami, cory, guppy,
> and now goldfish thanks to
> my wife (another story)...
>
> I don't use charcoal and I don't use any chemicals
> in the tanks. Just salt.
>
> So far no issue with the comets and fantails as yet,
> but I'll let you know :)
>
> tim
>
> --
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Tim Fairchild
> Atchafalaya Border Collies.
> Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Email mailto:tim@...
> Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
> Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
> Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
> Wikipedia
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19604 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta
If mama and/or Smuckers can get their mouths around the fry, they will eat them. So, yes, they should be kept separate from the other fish. Best way is in their own tank. The fry will grow and the amount you should be feeding them will put an increased load on your biological filter.

You can continue to feed the crushed flake, but there are foods made particularly for fry that contains a different balance of nutrients and will help them grow better than the straight crushed flake. Do not neglect to ensure that they get plenty of veggies. The fry should be fed several times a day.

You should have had a heater in the tank right along. Both the fish you have do like warmer temperatures than the room temperature they are probably at now, unless the room temperature is in the high 70's or low 80's.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Pam
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 1:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta

Hi all! I am new at having Fry of any kind. I have a 10 gallon
divided tank with pump but no heater at work with 2 bettas and a MM
platy.

I noticed in the last few days that the platy was pregnant so I got
one of the breeder tanks and isolated her yesterday. Today I have
fry!

I've taken her out and she's back in with her tankmate, my nice male
betta Smuckers. Here's where my questions start, lol.

Do I need to keep the fry isolated till bigger? If so, how long?
Will momma and Smuckers eat them? Do I continue to just feed the
fry flake only crush it or feed them something special? And do I
need to put in a heater now that there are fry? And if so, how will
it affect my bettas?

Thanks for any and all help.

Pam





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19605 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
On Wed, 8 Nov 2006 9:54 am, Melissa Laing wrote:
> What kind of filtration do you use?

I've used a few different things over the years and the type seems to have
little influence on fungus... The tank I most recently had the fungus problem
in was a homemade wet/dry trickle filter.

tim

> > I'm sure the guys are right in saying that salt is
> > better not kept in the
> > tank, however I am a long term salt user her with
> > many fish types (although
> > goldfish are a new one in the house).
> >
> > I live in tropical Australia and have had no luck in
> > keeping a salt free tank
> > over the years. I did try it again this year to
> > reduce salt gradually, but as
> > the weather warmed the rainbows again were suffering
> > sever fungus. So back
> > went the salt and cleared that up. It appears to be
> > a bad place for this
> > problem here. Perhaps it's the heat, I don't know...
> >
> > But anyway, because of that I have used salt for
> > long term periods without any
> > major issues. At least with a lot less issues than I
> > get without salt...
> >
> > I run the tanks continuously with 2 grams per litre
> > of sea salt, which means i
> > measure water changes an top up with the right
> > amount of salt. I'm on a farm
> > so I tend to use the course salt I use with the
> > cattle. I have rainbowfish,
> > gudgeon (brackish?), tetra, gourami, cory, guppy,
> > and now goldfish thanks to
> > my wife (another story)...
> >
> > I don't use charcoal and I don't use any chemicals
> > in the tanks. Just salt.
> >
> > So far no issue with the comets and fantails as yet,
> > but I'll let you know :)
> >
> > tim
> >
> > --
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> > Tim Fairchild
> > Atchafalaya Border Collies.
> > Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> > Email mailto:tim@...
> > Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
> > Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
> > Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
> > Wikipedia
> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> > replying, thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> > ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> > that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> > TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> > .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> > matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> ___________________________________________________________________________
>_________ Sponsored Link
>
> Get a free Motorola Razr! Today Only!
> Choose Cingular, Sprint, Verizon, Alltel, or T-Mobile.
> http://www.letstalk.com/inlink.htm?to=592913
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸. We
> Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19606 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/7/2006
Subject: Re: Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta
Heaters should be in a tropical tank anyways. Should I would add one it keep it at 76degrees. They do have a livebearer food that they sell. Other than that the flakes would be fine. Ill keep them in there for at least 3 months. The other fish would eat them. They would be a danger to be eaten as long as they can fit in thier mouths. Good Luck.


----- Original Message ----
From: Pam <pjm02281957@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 7, 2006 1:29:17 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta

Hi all! I am new at having Fry of any kind. I have a 10 gallon
divided tank with pump but no heater at work with 2 bettas and a MM
platy.

I noticed in the last few days that the platy was pregnant so I got
one of the breeder tanks and isolated her yesterday. Today I have
fry!

I've taken her out and she's back in with her tankmate, my nice male
betta Smuckers. Here's where my questions start, lol.

Do I need to keep the fry isolated till bigger? If so, how long?
Will momma and Smuckers eat them? Do I continue to just feed the
fry flake only crush it or feed them something special? And do I
need to put in a heater now that there are fry? And if so, how will
it affect my bettas?

Thanks for any and all help.

Pam






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19607 From: Nedra Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!
I just set up a 30 gal aquarium to house 2 little goldfish I'd had
in a miniature pond on the patio over the summer. They were about
1" long Comets when I bought them for 12cents ea. a few months ago.
Now they are almost 3" long. Naturally, I had to add a couple of
more - so now i have 4 goldfish and 1 Pleco in a 30 gal aquarium.

The two comets are doing great, and the little calico fantail is
doing okay too -- although not growing very fast. I went crazy and
bought a gorgeous 3" oranda at the aquarium shop and that's the one
I have trouble with. Very sensitive to the condition of the water.
He's definitely a great "teacher" for a novice aquarist. I had the
beginning of a clogged filter pad last night -- just enough to
reduce the circulation in the tank somewhat -- everybody was
swimming around happy as little clams except for him -- he was
pouting on the bottom of the tank. Quick water change and a new
filter pad and away he went with the rest of the kids!

Does anyone else have what appears to be an ultra-sensitive type
fish?
Oh! BTW, I live in the northwest suburbs of Chicago and would love
to find out about local aquarium clubs.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19608 From: Andreas Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: PH probe and light bulb replacement
Hello all

I have a PH meter with a probe in my tank as well as some 250- W metal
halide lights. also some UV sterilizer bulbs



My LFS says I should change them about once a year as the probes become
inaccurate and the MH bulbs loose their spectrum

Is this true? what is every ones experience with the actual
maintenance cycle

all the plants in the tank seem to be growing fine...

Andreas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19609 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: PH probe and light bulb replacement
Yes the bulbs do weaken but I ran one for a year and a half and just made sure it was in a close range and did just fine but all bulb do sooner or later need changed

Andreas <andreas1120@...> wrote: Hello all

I have a PH meter with a probe in my tank as well as some 250- W metal
halide lights. also some UV sterilizer bulbs

My LFS says I should change them about once a year as the probes become
inaccurate and the MH bulbs loose their spectrum

Is this true? what is every ones experience with the actual
maintenance cycle

all the plants in the tank seem to be growing fine...

Andreas

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19610 From: Keri Kimball Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta
Pam,

Welcome to fish motherhood! :) Platys are the only ones so far that I have not been able to get fry from, I'm envy. Actually what I have fed my babies (these are candied parrot babies) is something called First Bites. It's a powder food. My livebearers I keep in the same tank, but I have some floating plants that the babies hid in. Your babies should be good after 3 months, but just judge their size to be on the safe side.

Keri

(Who is delighted because she got her Archer fish to "spit" at her the past 2 nights at feeding time.)


----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2006 12:11:28 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta


Heaters should be in a tropical tank anyways. Should I would add one it keep it at 76degrees. They do have a livebearer food that they sell. Other than that the flakes would be fine. Ill keep them in there for at least 3 months. The other fish would eat them. They would be a danger to be eaten as long as they can fit in thier mouths. Good Luck.


----- Original Message ----
From: Pam <pjm02281957@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 7, 2006 1:29:17 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions about MM Platy Fry & Betta

Hi all! I am new at having Fry of any kind. I have a 10 gallon
divided tank with pump but no heater at work with 2 bettas and a MM
platy.

I noticed in the last few days that the platy was pregnant so I got
one of the breeder tanks and isolated her yesterday. Today I have
fry!

I've taken her out and she's back in with her tankmate, my nice male
betta Smuckers. Here's where my questions start, lol.

Do I need to keep the fry isolated till bigger? If so, how long?
Will momma and Smuckers eat them? Do I continue to just feed the
fry flake only crush it or feed them something special? And do I
need to put in a heater now that there are fry? And if so, how will
it affect my bettas?

Thanks for any and all help.

Pam






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link

Free Uniden 5.8GHz Phone System with Packet8 Internet Phone Service
http://www.getpacket8.net/yahoo2

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19611 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!
Oh, you are lucky in that you live near one of the better fish clubs in the country.

http://www.gcca.net/
They host the ACA American Cichlid Association convention earlier this year and I went and had a great time.

Nice people.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: terrierlover2002@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 11:32 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!


Oh! BTW, I live in the northwest suburbs of Chicago and would love
to find out about local aquarium clubs.



________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19612 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: green water
I have just started into show guppies and have 15 tens going. Even with
only 3 fish per tank and tanks only one month old and 10% water changes my
water is now pea soup green in many tanks. Today I tested for phosphorous
and it's not zero - about .40mg/l

I know it's not ammonia. Tested that. Not nitrate either - in fact floating
water sprite is barely growing. Lighting is normal fluorescent. Anyone with
similar experience and a solution let me know. I'm taking a sample into the
bio lab at my college to identify the little bugger. It has to be a
unicellular type of algae or protist.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19613 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: green water
What's the light like? Too bright and too long on can lead to green
water.

> I have just started into show guppies and have 15 tens going. Even
with
> only 3 fish per tank and tanks only one month old and 10% water
changes my
> water is now pea soup green in many tanks. Today I tested for
phosphorous
> and it's not zero - about .40mg/l
>
> I know it's not ammonia. Tested that. Not nitrate either - in fact
floating
> water sprite is barely growing. Lighting is normal fluorescent.
Anyone with
> similar experience and a solution let me know. I'm taking a sample
into the
> bio lab at my college to identify the little bugger. It has to be a
> unicellular type of algae or protist.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19614 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: PH probe and light bulb replacement
You do need to regularly calibrate your probe. At some point you will no longer be able to recalibrate accurately, and the need for a new probe will become self evident. Whether this period of use is 30 days, 6 months or 2 years, the probe will need to be replaced.

Someone else will need to answer your question about the halides for you. I do not know how they age


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andreas
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 4:30 PM
To: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] PH probe and light bulb replacement

Hello all

I have a PH meter with a probe in my tank as well as some 250- W metal
halide lights. also some UV sterilizer bulbs



My LFS says I should change them about once a year as the probes become
inaccurate and the MH bulbs loose their spectrum

Is this true? what is every ones experience with the actual
maintenance cycle

all the plants in the tank seem to be growing fine...

Andreas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19615 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!
While your 30 is probably OK for the time being, if you keep those goldfish, you'll need something coming in at about 100-125 gallons for the four fish you now have. Each adult goldfish will require about 30 gallons of water.

The GCCA is a fine club if you like cichlids, but if you are interested in a general species club, check out the Green Water Aquarist Society of Chicagoland at http://gwasoc.org/modules/tinycontent/index.php?id=2. Next year they will be celebrating their 50th anniversary.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Nedra
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 2:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!

I just set up a 30 gal aquarium to house 2 little goldfish I'd had
in a miniature pond on the patio over the summer. They were about
1" long Comets when I bought them for 12cents ea. a few months ago.
Now they are almost 3" long. Naturally, I had to add a couple of
more - so now i have 4 goldfish and 1 Pleco in a 30 gal aquarium.

The two comets are doing great, and the little calico fantail is
doing okay too -- although not growing very fast. I went crazy and
bought a gorgeous 3" oranda at the aquarium shop and that's the one
I have trouble with. Very sensitive to the condition of the water.
He's definitely a great "teacher" for a novice aquarist. I had the
beginning of a clogged filter pad last night -- just enough to
reduce the circulation in the tank somewhat -- everybody was
swimming around happy as little clams except for him -- he was
pouting on the bottom of the tank. Quick water change and a new
filter pad and away he went with the rest of the kids!

Does anyone else have what appears to be an ultra-sensitive type
fish?
Oh! BTW, I live in the northwest suburbs of Chicago and would love
to find out about local aquarium clubs.




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19616 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!
Orandas I find are the most sensitive.


----- Original Message ----
From: Nedra <terrierlover2002@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2006 2:32:26 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hi! I'm new to the group and have soooooooooo much to learn!!

I just set up a 30 gal aquarium to house 2 little goldfish I'd had
in a miniature pond on the patio over the summer. They were about
1" long Comets when I bought them for 12cents ea. a few months ago.
Now they are almost 3" long. Naturally, I had to add a couple of
more - so now i have 4 goldfish and 1 Pleco in a 30 gal aquarium.

The two comets are doing great, and the little calico fantail is
doing okay too -- although not growing very fast. I went crazy and
bought a gorgeous 3" oranda at the aquarium shop and that's the one
I have trouble with. Very sensitive to the condition of the water.
He's definitely a great "teacher" for a novice aquarist. I had the
beginning of a clogged filter pad last night -- just enough to
reduce the circulation in the tank somewhat -- everybody was
swimming around happy as little clams except for him -- he was
pouting on the bottom of the tank. Quick water change and a new
filter pad and away he went with the rest of the kids!

Does anyone else have what appears to be an ultra-sensitive type
fish?
Oh! BTW, I live in the northwest suburbs of Chicago and would love
to find out about local aquarium clubs.






____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19617 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: PH probe and light bulb replacement
Yes you should replace your bulbs once a year as they do burn out.


----- Original Message ----
From: Andreas <andreas1120@...>
To: UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2006 4:30:26 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] PH probe and light bulb replacement

Hello all

I have a PH meter with a probe in my tank as well as some 250- W metal
halide lights. also some UV sterilizer bulbs

My LFS says I should change them about once a year as the probes become
inaccurate and the MH bulbs loose their spectrum

Is this true? what is every ones experience with the actual
maintenance cycle

all the plants in the tank seem to be growing fine...

Andreas

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19618 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: Re: green water
Its whats called an algae bloom. Some ppl have shut the lights off more and that helped. If you have a powerfilter with poly bagged filter cartridges you can wrap cheese cloth around it and wash it off when need to.


----- Original Message ----
From: Michael Marcotrigiano <michael@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2006 9:22:17 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] green water

I have just started into show guppies and have 15 tens going. Even with
only 3 fish per tank and tanks only one month old and 10% water changes my
water is now pea soup green in many tanks. Today I tested for phosphorous
and it's not zero - about .40mg/l

I know it's not ammonia. Tested that. Not nitrate either - in fact floating
water sprite is barely growing. Lighting is normal fluorescent. Anyone with
similar experience and a solution let me know. I'm taking a sample into the
bio lab at my college to identify the little bugger. It has to be a
unicellular type of algae or protist.






____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19619 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/8/2006
Subject: checking for leaks
So I was able to get my hands on a very nice reptile tank whatever you call
them I am so dead right now I cant think.. But I want to make sure it can
hold water as I want to use it for a hospital tank at my house.. so rather than
putting it outside as it is so stormy and nasty out there or putting it on my
carpet and have it leak does anyone have a idea to see if it is leaking.. I
was thinking I could put it in my bathtub but then realized that the tub
floor is curbed so that it would put a lot of pressure on parts of the tank cause
it wouldn't sit flat, so I figure that is out... I guess maybe a towel on
the floor but then I fear maybe a huge mess??? Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19620 From: Rob Renfro Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Shannon,

your best bet would be to put it outside where its level.Put some methyl blu in it to turn water blue, that way when and if it leaks you will see blue around the base of the tank. Try and put it where no water will run into it. Maybe place a piece of plywood or plastic over it.. that way nothing gets into it. Of course this will turn your Silicone a beautiful Blue :-)
I might tempt food coloring if i did not have any Methyl blu or any other medication that would turn the water a diffrent color.

~~
Now for some not so good news.
Some non fish tanks depending on what kind of animals where kept in them should not be used for fish tanks. Reason the urine from certain animals( gerbils, hamsters, lizards, rabbits etc) collects under the silicone and will leach out for a long time when filled with water producing high ammonia levels and possible other problems.
I have never experienced this problem myself but have been advised against using Tanks that have held anything other then aquatic animals.

Wish you the best of luck

Robert Renfro

www.ftas.net/main


=====================
From: agentscullyeyore@...
Date: 2006/11/09 Thu AM 01:28:21 CST
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] checking for leaks



So I was able to get my hands on a very nice reptile where tank whatever you call
them I am so dead right now I cant think.. But I want to make sure it can
hold water as I want to use it for a hospital tank at my house.. so rather than
putting it outside as it is so stormy and nasty out there or putting it on my
carpet and have it leak does anyone have a idea to see if it is leaking.. I
was thinking I could put it in my bathtub but then realized that the tub
floor is curbed so that it would put a lot of pressure on parts of the tank cause
it wouldn't sit flat, so I figure that is out... I guess maybe a towel on
the floor but then I fear maybe a huge mess??? Shannon


Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board Of Directors
http://ftas.net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19621 From: hank voss Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Rob Renfro <fortwaynefish@...>
wrote:
> To see where the leak would be put a sheet of newspaper under the
tank and you can see right where the leak is rather than putting in a
coloring agent in the tank
Hank


> Shannon,
>
> your best bet would be to put it outside where its level.Put some
methyl blu in it to turn water blue, that way when and if it leaks you
will see blue around the base of the tank. Try and put it where no
water will run into it. Maybe place a piece of plywood or plastic over
it.. that way nothing gets into it. Of course this will turn your
Silicone a beautiful Blue :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19622 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Hi Shannon, Depending on the size of the tank, your concern for even
support all the way around is noted as being well considered on your
part. As you're thinking of using this tank as a hospital tank, I
would have to assume that its not really too large. Smaller tanks
can be safely supported on just the long front and back edges (which
a bathub will afford), and are often placed on racks in fishrooms or
wholesale houses in such a position, without concern for support on
the ends, since their construction (and materials used) gives them
sufficient strength. Easier observation will be had outdoors,
however.

If all goes well as far as there being no leaks, you should test it
with an expendable fish, for its safety, before introducing a
valuable fish in it. I remember posting at least twice here on this
group way back when, on this topic in reply to hobbyists
contemplating using used reptile or small mammal tanks for fish.
Apparently, you were not one of those hobbyist at that time who was
planning on such.

Please be aware that the concentrated urine of reptiles and small
mammals will permeate the silicone sealant of the tank, much like you
see dye medications turn the silicone green or blue. However, in
this case, the strong urine can and will be released into the water
when setting it up for fish, even after repeated and thorough
cleanings. This may not happen all the time, depending on how much
contact the reptile's or mammal's urine has had with the silicone.
Some keepers of these animals use a very heavy layer of bedding which
takes up much of their waste, but on the other hand, other keepers
may not have used as much. It is for this very reason that
auctioneers of bankrupt or closed/out-of-business pet shop
inventories will always state if these tanks had previously held the
afore mentioned critters to make prospective bidders aware of this
condition. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
>
> So I was able to get my hands on a very nice reptile tank whatever
you call
> them I am so dead right now I cant think.. But I want to make sure
it can
> hold water as I want to use it for a hospital tank at my house..
so rather than
> putting it outside as it is so stormy and nasty out there or
putting it on my
> carpet and have it leak does anyone have a idea to see if it is
leaking.. I
> was thinking I could put it in my bathtub but then realized that
the tub
> floor is curbed so that it would put a lot of pressure on parts of
the tank cause
> it wouldn't sit flat, so I figure that is out... I guess maybe a
towel on
> the floor but then I fear maybe a huge mess??? Shannon
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19623 From: snerticus Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: green water
The most common type of "green water" algae is called euglena. It is
an algae that is the favored food of many tiny inverts. You can try
putting daphnia in the water - they will eat it and clear it up for
you niceley, and as a bonus, the guppies will find the smaller ones
good conditioning food. As for clearing it up mechanically with a
filter, I'm not sure, as all my tanks with green water are there
because I want green water tanks, so I haven't tried to filter any of
them. If you don't want to add daphnia to your tanks, you should try
putting some of the water in another small tank and add daphnia to
that, just as an experiment. The benefit of that is, as I have
mentioned above, the daphnia are considered good conditioning food
for breeding fish. Since you have guppies, I would try to find a
daphnia species that are small enough for them to eat - Daphnia magna
would probably be out as they are the largest. Daphnia pulex may be
a better choice, and there are even smaller species to try. If you
do get some daphnia, be sure there is not much water movement in the
tank, they tend not to do well in moving water. They prefer still
water.

Hope this helps a little.

Snert


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Michael Marcotrigiano
<michael@...> wrote:
>
> I have just started into show guppies and have 15 tens going. Even
with
> only 3 fish per tank and tanks only one month old and 10% water
changes my
> water is now pea soup green in many tanks. Today I tested for
phosphorous
> and it's not zero - about .40mg/l
>
> I know it's not ammonia. Tested that. Not nitrate either - in fact
floating
> water sprite is barely growing. Lighting is normal fluorescent.
Anyone with
> similar experience and a solution let me know. I'm taking a sample
into the
> bio lab at my college to identify the little bugger. It has to be a
> unicellular type of algae or protist.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19624 From: Cory Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Ick Question I Should Know the Answer To
What exactly is ick and where does it come from and how is it prevented? I know how to recognize once
the fish has it, but where would it come from in a perfectly clean tank that the fish have been in for several
months? Water was changed, nothing new introduced, and suddenly 3 of the 4 fish got what appeared to
be ick and died. We put med in but was too late for all but one. Thanks for info......Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19625 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: Ick Question I Should Know the Answer To
Cory ick is in every tank its just a fact that it is dormant until the right condition like the water getting to cold tank being to dirty and it weakens the fish immunity system and the ick begins
Cory <wdwwife@...> wrote: What exactly is ick and where does it come from and how is it prevented? I know how to recognize once
the fish has it, but where would it come from in a perfectly clean tank that the fish have been in for several
months? Water was changed, nothing new introduced, and suddenly 3 of the 4 fish got what appeared to
be ick and died. We put med in but was too late for all but one. Thanks for info......Cory






---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19626 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: green water
The normal cause of this is lights being on to long or there is a widow allowing outside light in or over feeding. Best way to fix this is to shut the lights off for a week and cover with a sheet to block any light and don't feed .

Michael Marcotrigiano <michael@...> wrote: I have just started into show guppies and have 15 tens going. Even with
only 3 fish per tank and tanks only one month old and 10% water changes my
water is now pea soup green in many tanks. Today I tested for phosphorous
and it's not zero - about .40mg/l

I know it's not ammonia. Tested that. Not nitrate either - in fact floating
water sprite is barely growing. Lighting is normal fluorescent. Anyone with
similar experience and a solution let me know. I'm taking a sample into the
bio lab at my college to identify the little bugger. It has to be a
unicellular type of algae or protist.






---------------------------------
Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19627 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: Ick Question I Should Know the Answer To
Well that answers that. The little tank in question (6 liters) is in my office and we cut the light off one night. The tank got colder than normal. Thank you so much.........

---------------------------------
Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19628 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
thanks ray.. this tank is a bit on the bigger size.. I really don't know how
big as its still in my car I need soemoen to help me carry it in.. more for
the fact that it is so rainy and slipper I don't want to risk doing it on my
own.. its bigger length wise than my 20 gallon but I think not as tall maybe a
bit shorter so its much longer than taller.. oh heck I think I need to
measure it now LOL>. Shannon




Hi Shannon, Depending on the size of the tank, your concern for even
support all the way around is noted as being well considered on your
part. As you're thinking of using this tank as a hospital tank, I
would have to assume that its not really too large. Smaller tanks
can be safely supported on just the long front and back edges (which
a bathub will afford), and are often placed on racks in fishrooms or
wholesale houses in such a position, without concern for support on
the ends, since their construction (and materials used) gives them
sufficient strength. Easier observation will be had outdoors,
however.

If all goes well as far as there being no leaks, you should test it
with an expendable fish, for its safety, before introducing a
valuable fish in it. I remember posting at least twice here on this
group way back when, on this topic in reply to hobbyists
contemplating using used reptile or small mammal tanks for fish.
Apparently, you were not one of those hobbyist at that time who was
planning on such.

Please be aware that the concentrated urine of reptiles and small
mammals will permeate the silicone sealant of the tank, much like you
see dye medications turn the silicone green or blue. However, in
this case, the strong urine can and will be released into the water
when setting it up for fish, even after repeated and thorough
cleanings. This may not happen all the time, depending on how much
contact the reptile's or mammal's urine has had with the silicone.
Some keepers of these animals use a very heavy layer of bedding which
takes up much of their waste, but on the other hand, other keepers
may not have used as much. It is for this very reason that
auctioneers of bankrupt or closed/out-of-auctioneers of
inventories will always state if these tanks had previously held the
afore mentioned critters to make prospective bidders aware of this
condition. Ray








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19629 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
well dang I had no idea it could be bad for the fish... what if I keep water
in it fo ra long time ( bidding it does hold the water) like I could keep
changing the water a few times a week and keep the water in it till summer so
for some months.. LOL I think there was a lizard or reptile in there as that is
what all this extra stuff looks like.. Shannon




Shannon,

your best bet would be to put it outside where its level.Put some methyl blu
in it to turn water blue, that way when and if it leaks you will see blue
around the base of the tank. Try and put it where no water will run into it.
Maybe place a piece of plywood or plastic over it.. that way nothing gets into
it. Of course this will turn your Silicone a beautiful Blue :-)
I might tempt food coloring if i did not have any Methyl blu or any other
medication that would turn the water a diffrent color.

~~
Now for some not so good news.
Some non fish tanks depending on what kind of animals where kept in them
should not be used for fish tanks. Reason the urine from certain animals(
gerbils, hamsters, lizards, rabbits etc) collects under the silicone and will leach
out for a long time when filled with water producing high ammonia levels and
possible other problems.
I have never experienced this problem myself but have been advised against
using Tanks that have held anything other then aquatic animals.

Wish you the best of luck

Robert Renfro

www.ftas.net/www.









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19630 From: Nedra Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
I have a pleco -- but he's really not too good at it. He sleeps all
day and only comes out at night and I think there may be too much area
to cover for one 2 inch pleco.

I read in some of the posts that the fish called a Chinese Algae Eater
can attack the other fish and eat their slime coats off -- so I don't
want to get one of those for sure!!!

Somewhere on this site I saw reference to an ecto or eco or something -
- probably an abbreviation of the scientific name -- but I don't think
I'm spelling it right -- the search engine isn't finding it.

Can anyone help me?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19631 From: hank voss Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@...>
wrote:
> ===================
Nedra:
The fish you want is "Otocinclus affinis"its a small sucker
cat1.5-2ins.ITS MAIN DIET IS ALGAE.Depending on how much algae you
have and the size of the tank 6 work well in a 50 gal.
Chinese dont eat much algae if any and they do go after other fish
especialy when they getlarger.
Regards Hank
> I have a pleco -- but he's really not too good at it. He sleeps all
> day
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19632 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
go out and get a few flying fox or siamences algae eater or there are small algae eater most places know them as ottos but there full name is ottocinculus (spelt something like that)
Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote: I have a pleco -- but he's really not too good at it. He sleeps all
day and only comes out at night and I think there may be too much area
to cover for one 2 inch pleco.

I read in some of the posts that the fish called a Chinese Algae Eater
can attack the other fish and eat their slime coats off -- so I don't
want to get one of those for sure!!!

Somewhere on this site I saw reference to an ecto or eco or something -
- probably an abbreviation of the scientific name -- but I don't think
I'm spelling it right -- the search engine isn't finding it.

Can anyone help me?






---------------------------------
Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19633 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: brown algae has invaded!
Hi:

I woke up this morning only to find brown algae all over everything
in my new 55 gallon tank. Yesterday and the day before had a little
on the fake plants. I thought it could wait till Friday when I do my
weekly cleaning and changing of 25% of the water. Should I clean it
now or can it wait till morning? Will my fishies be okay in
there? It's all over the rock, plants and even the
gravel. Gross. It's not furry or stringy, just a coating of brown
here and there.

I just added real plants less than a week ago. Could that have done it?

Also, should I be doing fertilizer for the plants? The plants have a
nice strong hood light, Steve, that I got at drsfosterandsmith - the
amt of light you recommended.

Thanks, everyone.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19634 From: Bruce Hansen Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: Archer Fish
For Archerfish afishionados :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Enq1e3YMON0

Cheers

Bruce (Hansen)

ANGFA (Qld) Inc - http://www.angfaqld.org.au/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19635 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Shannon, Sounds like you probably have a 30 gallon long (36" long x
16" high x 12" wide) Leave it where it is for now; don't risk
breaking the tank or hurting yourself if you slip. As for testing
it, Don't be in a hurry -- wait until it stops raining and fill in
outside. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
>
> thanks ray.. this tank is a bit on the bigger size.. I really don't
know how
> big as its still in my car I need soemoen to help me carry it in..
more for
> the fact that it is so rainy and slipper I don't want to risk doing
it on my
> own.. its bigger length wise than my 20 gallon but I think not as
tall maybe a
> bit shorter so its much longer than taller.. oh heck I think I
need to
> measure it now LOL>. Shannon
>
>
>
>
> Hi Shannon, Depending on the size of the tank, your concern for
even
> support all the way around is noted as being well considered on
your
> part. As you're thinking of using this tank as a hospital tank, I
> would have to assume that its not really too large. Smaller tanks
> can be safely supported on just the long front and back edges
(which
> a bathub will afford), and are often placed on racks in fishrooms
or
> wholesale houses in such a position, without concern for support
on
> the ends, since their construction (and materials used) gives them
> sufficient strength. Easier observation will be had outdoors,
> however.
>
> If all goes well as far as there being no leaks, you should test
it
> with an expendable fish, for its safety, before introducing a
> valuable fish in it. I remember posting at least twice here on
this
> group way back when, on this topic in reply to hobbyists
> contemplating using used reptile or small mammal tanks for fish.
> Apparently, you were not one of those hobbyist at that time who
was
> planning on such.
>
> Please be aware that the concentrated urine of reptiles and small
> mammals will permeate the silicone sealant of the tank, much like
you
> see dye medications turn the silicone green or blue. However, in
> this case, the strong urine can and will be released into the
water
> when setting it up for fish, even after repeated and thorough
> cleanings. This may not happen all the time, depending on how much
> contact the reptile's or mammal's urine has had with the silicone.
> Some keepers of these animals use a very heavy layer of bedding
which
> takes up much of their waste, but on the other hand, other keepers
> may not have used as much. It is for this very reason that
> auctioneers of bankrupt or closed/out-of-auctioneers of
> inventories will always state if these tanks had previously held
the
> afore mentioned critters to make prospective bidders aware of this
> condition. Ray
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19636 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
That may work, but as the urine is so concentrated it will probably
just keep leaching out for an undeterminable amount of time, although
its still unsure if the waste was close enough to the silicone for it
to have been absorbed.

With writing this, I had just thought of something that I should have
thought of sooner. Clean out (trim off) any excess silicone from all
joints, being careful not to cut through between the panes. Then,
using aquarium safe silicone sealer in a tube, reseal the tank with a
bead of silicone over all the joints, making sure that you cover any
of the old stuff which should be minimal at this point anyway if you
did a good job of trimming. This should take care of any possible
problems. Best to do this outside because of the fumes, and wear a
pair of throw away rubber gloves. If you have a caulking gun, get
the large tube; its cheap enough. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
>
> well dang I had no idea it could be bad for the fish... what if I
keep water
> in it fo ra long time ( bidding it does hold the water) like I
could keep
> changing the water a few times a week and keep the water in it till
summer so
> for some months.. LOL I think there was a lizard or reptile in
there as that is
> what all this extra stuff looks like.. Shannon
>
>
>
>
> Shannon,
>
> your best bet would be to put it outside where its level.Put some
methyl blu
> in it to turn water blue, that way when and if it leaks you will
see blue
> around the base of the tank. Try and put it where no water will
run into it.
> Maybe place a piece of plywood or plastic over it.. that way
nothing gets into
> it. Of course this will turn your Silicone a beautiful Blue :-)
> I might tempt food coloring if i did not have any Methyl blu or
any other
> medication that would turn the water a diffrent color.
>
> ~~
> Now for some not so good news.
> Some non fish tanks depending on what kind of animals where kept
in them
> should not be used for fish tanks. Reason the urine from certain
animals(
> gerbils, hamsters, lizards, rabbits etc) collects under the
silicone and will leach
> out for a long time when filled with water producing high ammonia
levels and
> possible other problems.
> I have never experienced this problem myself but have been advised
against
> using Tanks that have held anything other then aquatic animals.
>
> Wish you the best of luck
>
> Robert Renfro
>
> www.ftas.net/www.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19637 From: alleycat0352 Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Thanks
Just wanted to thank those who gave the advice on my little green
puffer. He is doing well. I added aquarium salt. It was iffy at first
but he finally came around. I was thinking it was the threats of
getting another puffer to replace him that brought him back...lol. I
would post a pic, but he is too busy eating up the snails he ignored
for 2 weeks. Thanks again.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19638 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
is there a possibility that they have 30 gallon longs for fish tanks is
there a way I can tell if it was sold as a fish tank versus a reptile tank I have
been told that the reptile tanks are using thinner glass and there for cant
hold water... Shannon




Shannon, Sounds like you probably have a 30 gallon long (36" long x
16" high x 12" wide) Leave it where it is for now; don't risk
breaking the tank or hurting yourself if you slip. As for testing
it, Don't be in a hurry -- wait until it stops raining and fill in
outside. Ray








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19639 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
oh thanks ray that is a great idea.. Shannon




That may work, but as the urine is so concentrated it will probably
just keep leaching out for an undeterminable amount of time, although
its still unsure if the waste was close enough to the silicone for it
to have been absorbed.

With writing this, I had just thought of something that I should have
thought of sooner. Clean out (trim off) any excess silicone from all
joints, being careful not to cut through between the panes. Then,
using aquarium safe silicone sealer in a tube, reseal the tank with a
bead of silicone over all the joints, making sure that you cover any
of the old stuff which should be minimal at this point anyway if you
did a good job of trimming. This should take care of any possible
problems. Best to do this outside because of the fumes, and wear a
pair of throw away rubber gloves. If you have a caulking gun, get
the large tube; its cheap enough. Ray








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19640 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Yes, 30 gallon longs are one of the standard sizes for fish tanks.
Most reptile tanks are made in the same dimensions as aquariums.
Also, many pet shop owners use and sell fish tanks as reptile tanks
as they can buy them fairly reasonable. There are some smaller
aquarium manufacturers such as Glass Cages (Twin Oaks) in Tennessee
who also manufacture reptile tanks using lighter glass, but the major
manufacturers only build aquariums, which are sometimes used as
reptile tanks as needed. Sometimes, depending on the manufacturer,
these aquariums may be marketed as reptile tanks -- even including a
screen cover, by a major builder but they only use one thickness of
glass (for aquariums) suited for the particular size tank and nothing
thinner, getting their price for it. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
>
> is there a possibility that they have 30 gallon longs for fish
tanks is
> there a way I can tell if it was sold as a fish tank versus a
reptile tank I have
> been told that the reptile tanks are using thinner glass and there
for cant
> hold water... Shannon
>
>
>
>
> Shannon, Sounds like you probably have a 30 gallon long (36" long x
> 16" high x 12" wide) Leave it where it is for now; don't risk
> breaking the tank or hurting yourself if you slip. As for testing
> it, Don't be in a hurry -- wait until it stops raining and fill in
> outside. Ray
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19641 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
thanks im glad to hear that most likely the other person was wrong.. Shannon




Yes, 30 gallon longs are one of the standard sizes for fish tanks.
Most reptile tanks are made in the same dimensions as aquariums.
Also, many pet shop owners use and sell fish tanks as reptile tanks
as they can buy them fairly reasonable. There are some smaller
aquarium manufacturers such as Glass Cages (Twin Oaks) in Tennessee
who also manufacture reptile tanks using lighter glass, but the major
manufacturers only build aquariums, which are sometimes used as
reptile tanks as needed. Sometimes, depending on the manufacturer,
these aquariums may be marketed as reptile tanks -- even including a
screen cover, by a major builder but they only use one thickness of
glass (for aquariums) suited for the particular size tank and nothing
thinner, getting their price for it. Ray








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19642 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: green water
single tube over a ten and on for 16 hours per day.


At 03:07 AM 11/9/2006 +0000, you wrote:

>What's the light like? Too bright and too long on can lead to green
>water.
>
> > I have just started into show guppies and have 15 tens going. Even
>with
> > only 3 fish per tank and tanks only one month old and 10% water
>changes my
> > water is now pea soup green in many tanks. Today I tested for
>phosphorous
> > and it's not zero - about .40mg/l
> >
> > I know it's not ammonia. Tested that. Not nitrate either - in fact
>floating
> > water sprite is barely growing. Lighting is normal fluorescent.
>Anyone with
> > similar experience and a solution let me know. I'm taking a sample
>into the
> > bio lab at my college to identify the little bugger. It has to be a
> > unicellular type of algae or protist.
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19643 From: Michael Marcotrigiano Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: brown algae has invaded!
Get a bristle nose pleco. They love eating that stuff and will clean it up
and love it.

At 06:16 PM 11/9/2006 -0500, you wrote:

>Hi:
>
>I woke up this morning only to find brown algae all over everything
>in my new 55 gallon tank. Yesterday and the day before had a little
>on the fake plants. I thought it could wait till Friday when I do my
>weekly cleaning and changing of 25% of the water. Should I clean it
>now or can it wait till morning? Will my fishies be okay in
>there? It's all over the rock, plants and even the
>gravel. Gross. It's not furry or stringy, just a coating of brown
>here and there.
>
>I just added real plants less than a week ago. Could that have done it?
>
>Also, should I be doing fertilizer for the plants? The plants have a
>nice strong hood light, Steve, that I got at drsfosterandsmith - the
>amt of light you recommended.
>
>Thanks, everyone.
>
>Jeannie Fazio - <mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
><http://www.prioritiesonline.com>http://www.prioritiesonline.com
>:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
>Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
><http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio>http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to
>preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
>sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19644 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: green water
you shouldn't have your light on more then 12 hours a day and with the green water you may want only 8 hours a day

Michael Marcotrigiano <michael@...> wrote: single tube over a ten and on for 16 hours per day.

At 03:07 AM 11/9/2006 +0000, you wrote:

>What's the light like? Too bright and too long on can lead to green
>water.
>
> > I have just started into show guppies and have 15 tens going. Even
>with
> > only 3 fish per tank and tanks only one month old and 10% water
>changes my
> > water is now pea soup green in many tanks. Today I tested for
>phosphorous
> > and it's not zero - about .40mg/l
> >
> > I know it's not ammonia. Tested that. Not nitrate either - in fact
>floating
> > water sprite is barely growing. Lighting is normal fluorescent.
>Anyone with
> > similar experience and a solution let me know. I'm taking a sample
>into the
> > bio lab at my college to identify the little bugger. It has to be a
> > unicellular type of algae or protist.
> >
>
>






---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19645 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
I think Ray has experienced problems with reptile tanks used for fish.
Something about the reptile urine absorbed into the silicone and then
leaching back out into the water and killing the fish. Maybe try some
inexpensive ones initially just to be safe.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 2:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] checking for leaks




So I was able to get my hands on a very nice reptile tank whatever you call
them I am so dead right now I cant think.. But I want to make sure it can
hold water as I want to use it for a hospital tank at my house.. so rather
than
putting it outside as it is so stormy and nasty out there or putting it on
my
carpet and have it leak does anyone have a idea to see if it is leaking.. I
was thinking I could put it in my bathtub but then realized that the tub
floor is curbed so that it would put a lot of pressure on parts of the tank
cause
it wouldn't sit flat, so I figure that is out... I guess maybe a towel on
the floor but then I fear maybe a huge mess??? Shannon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19646 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
I know you said that you wanted to avoid the chinese
algea eater, but just to add my 2 cents... I like them
and have never had trouble with them. Neither have
any of the people I know who have them.
I am also happy with my borneo sucker however its
total of 2 inches might not be what you are looking
for other than you need to keep them in at least a
pair and they do much much better as a group of 3 or
more.

--- Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote:

> I have a pleco -- but he's really not too good at
> it. He sleeps all
> day and only comes out at night and I think there
> may be too much area
> to cover for one 2 inch pleco.
>
> I read in some of the posts that the fish called a
> Chinese Algae Eater
> can attack the other fish and eat their slime coats
> off -- so I don't
> want to get one of those for sure!!!
>
> Somewhere on this site I saw reference to an ecto or
> eco or something -
> - probably an abbreviation of the scientific name --
> but I don't think
> I'm spelling it right -- the search engine isn't
> finding it.
>
> Can anyone help me?
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19647 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/9/2006
Subject: Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
First, there are algae eaters and then there is algae. Many algae eaters specialize in one type of algae, and can thus starve, even if you have a bountiful supply of algae, simply because it is the wrong kind of algae for them.

Second, plecos can be in poor shape when you buy them and may just hang in there for a while, then die, if they are not given special treatment from the time of purchase. Unless you have a practiced eye, you may need to look hard and long at any plecos you may wish to purchase. Look for signs of a sunken belly. If it is apparent, you will need to give them a time of tlc to return them to good health. If the eyes are sunken, forget them, they are too far gone to be brought back.

Third, plecos seem to need wood in their diet. Any driftwood décor will do, but they do need it for some reason that I am not aware of.

The fish you are thinking of have been mentioned in another reply, but in a confused way. The flying fox is not a common fish, though one sees it more now than in the past. The scientific name is _Epalzeorhynchus kalopterus_. Only one of these per tank as it is aggressive to its own species, and, less often, to other fish.

There is another fish, quite similar to the flying fox and of the same genus, that is also sold. These tend to be more common than the true flying fox, but the same caveats apply.

The third mentioned is the oto or otto, which is usually _Otocinculus affinis_. These are small fish, and you do need to purchase several at a time to get the job done. They are very industrious, however, and if they like your kind of algae, they'll get right to work, and some people think they work miracles in controlling algae.

There are plenty of other fishes that specialize in eating algae or utilize algae as part of their diets. Also, there are other methods for controlling algae.

Finally, a note to the person who claims to have no problems with the CAE. YMMV, but as the CAE's grow, they will become more troublesome, especially if you have flat bodied fish, like angels or hatchets or similar in your tank. For the most part, you will experience the CAE's harassing at least those fish, if not others. The best advice is to stay away from them and not learn what they can do to your fish when they become adults.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Nedra
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 3:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I need a recommendation for an algae eater

I have a pleco -- but he's really not too good at it. He sleeps all
day and only comes out at night and I think there may be too much area
to cover for one 2 inch pleco.

I read in some of the posts that the fish called a Chinese Algae Eater
can attack the other fish and eat their slime coats off -- so I don't
want to get one of those for sure!!!

Somewhere on this site I saw reference to an ecto or eco or something -
- probably an abbreviation of the scientific name -- but I don't think
I'm spelling it right -- the search engine isn't finding it.

Can anyone help me?




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19648 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks
Perhaps if the tank is filled with water and ammo lock added for a
while before adding any fish? Might draw out the urine?

> I think Ray has experienced problems with reptile tanks used for fish.
> Something about the reptile urine absorbed into the silicone and then
> leaching back out into the water and killing the fish. Maybe try some
> inexpensive ones initially just to be safe.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19649 From: Nedra Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for an
I went out on the web to search about the otocinclus affinis and the
two pieces of info (one wikipedia, another from an aquarist site) both
alluded to the sensitivity of this little guy and the fact that he
likes acidic water. My water straight from the tap is 7.8 and I'm far
too much of an amateur to try to adjust it... I'm feeling challenged
just testing for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates!...grin;)

What are an oto's chances of adapting and thriving in akaline levels
up to 7.8?
BTW, Steve thanks for talking about the Pleco -- he does have a
beautiful piece of driftwood that he hides in (it's also growing a
emerald green coat of algae! LOL)

The algae is beautiful really -- just a shame to be scrapping it off
the front of the glass when some little fish could be lovin' it!

And as far as "checking the Pleco out" -- this guy's so elusive, there
have been days on end when I can't even find him (and this is only a
30 gal. tank). Sometimes when I'm vacuuming and move a rock or the
driftwood, I see a blur dart across the tank...so I got quite a
chuckle out of your suggestion that I make sure his eyes are clear and
shiny!

Let me know what you think my chances are with keeping a little oto at
7.8 pH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19650 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for
the other algae eater I would look at is the rubber noise pleco or the clown pleco

Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote:
I went out on the web to search about the otocinclus affinis and the
two pieces of info (one wikipedia, another from an aquarist site) both
alluded to the sensitivity of this little guy and the fact that he
likes acidic water. My water straight from the tap is 7.8 and I'm far
too much of an amateur to try to adjust it... I'm feeling challenged
just testing for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates!...grin;)

What are an oto's chances of adapting and thriving in akaline levels
up to 7.8?
BTW, Steve thanks for talking about the Pleco -- he does have a
beautiful piece of driftwood that he hides in (it's also growing a
emerald green coat of algae! LOL)

The algae is beautiful really -- just a shame to be scrapping it off
the front of the glass when some little fish could be lovin' it!

And as far as "checking the Pleco out" -- this guy's so elusive, there
have been days on end when I can't even find him (and this is only a
30 gal. tank). Sometimes when I'm vacuuming and move a rock or the
driftwood, I see a blur dart across the tank...so I got quite a
chuckle out of your suggestion that I make sure his eyes are clear and
shiny!

Let me know what you think my chances are with keeping a little oto at
7.8 pH






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19651 From: hank voss Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for an
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@...>
wrote:
>
>
> I went out on the web to search about the otocinclus affinis and
the
> two pieces of info (one wikipedia, another from an aquarist site)
both
> alluded to the sensitivity of this little guy and the fact that he
> likes acidic water. My water straight from the tap is 7.8 and I'm
far
=======================
They are not that sensitive about water they will do quite
well at 7.8 besides water ph will lower in time unless you do water
changes every day which is rather unlikely.If you get ottos they
have to have enough algae for food otherwish they will die in time
their diet is almost 100% vegetable.
Hank


> too much of an amateur to try to adjust it... I'm feeling
challenged
> just testing for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates!...grin;)
>
> What are an oto's chances of adapting and thriving in akaline
levels
> up to 7.8?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19652 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks/ thin glass
hrm that is a thought have to see what the other say or do that after I
reseal the cocking..

also realized I haven't a clue if this is thinner glass or not.. is there a
way to tell if the glass is too thin for water?? Shannon




Perhaps if the tank is filled with water and ammo lock added for a
while before adding any fish? Might draw out the urine?









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19653 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: green water
Thats why you have green water you can go for 8-12 hours. The brightness can affect it depending what type of spectrum it gives off.


----- Original Message ----
From: Michael Marcotrigiano <michael@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2006 8:25:33 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: green water

single tube over a ten and on for 16 hours per day.

At 03:07 AM 11/9/2006 +0000, you wrote:

>What's the light like? Too bright and too long on can lead to green
>water.
>
> > I have just started into show guppies and have 15 tens going. Even
>with
> > only 3 fish per tank and tanks only one month old and 10% water
>changes my
> > water is now pea soup green in many tanks. Today I tested for
>phosphorous
> > and it's not zero - about .40mg/l
> >
> > I know it's not ammonia. Tested that. Not nitrate either - in fact
>floating
> > water sprite is barely growing. Lighting is normal fluorescent.
>Anyone with
> > similar experience and a solution let me know. I'm taking a sample
>into the
> > bio lab at my college to identify the little bugger. It has to be a
> > unicellular type of algae or protist.
> >
>
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19654 From: Nedra Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Thanks again everyone
I think it would be so much fun to actually "see" a little fish
enjoying the algae -- scooting along over the rocks and driftwood
and stuff. I know I need to slow down, it's just so much fun to get
a new fish.

BTW, I AM doing partial water changes several times a week (is that
bad?)-- I thought I was supposed too until the tank was well
established...I think I read it somewhere. And since my tank has
only been up 4 months -- the LFS said it didn't qualify as
truly "established" until it had been set up for at least 8 months.
So I thought I would help maintain the water purity if I took some
of the load off the bio filter media while it was establishing a
healthy colony of whatever stuff it grows to convert toxic waste.
Plus, with only one tank, it gives me something to "putter" with and
I'm a chronic "putterer".

But I'm intrigued by your statement that the pH would eventually
lower. I love the South American tropical cichlids -- especially
angelfish, but was afraid to try them in my yucky water. Maybe when
the tank is truly established someday?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I went out on the web to search about the otocinclus affinis and
> the
> > two pieces of info (one wikipedia, another from an aquarist
site)
> both
> > alluded to the sensitivity of this little guy and the fact that
he
> > likes acidic water. My water straight from the tap is 7.8 and
I'm
> far
> =======================
> They are not that sensitive about water they will do
quite
> well at 7.8 besides water ph will lower in time unless you do
water
> changes every day which is rather unlikely.If you get ottos they
> have to have enough algae for food otherwish they will die in time
> their diet is almost 100% vegetable.
> Hank
>
>
> > too much of an amateur to try to adjust it... I'm feeling
> challenged
> > just testing for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates!...grin;)
> >
> > What are an oto's chances of adapting and thriving in akaline
> levels
> > up to 7.8?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19655 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for
Otos can live in ph of 6.8-7.5. Test your tank water though as it almost always is lower. Due in part of food waste, fish waste and other factors that lower the ph.


----- Original Message ----
From: Nedra <terrierlover2002@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 10:55:33 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater


I went out on the web to search about the otocinclus affinis and the
two pieces of info (one wikipedia, another from an aquarist site) both
alluded to the sensitivity of this little guy and the fact that he
likes acidic water. My water straight from the tap is 7.8 and I'm far
too much of an amateur to try to adjust it... I'm feeling challenged
just testing for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates!... grin;)

What are an oto's chances of adapting and thriving in akaline levels
up to 7.8?
BTW, Steve thanks for talking about the Pleco -- he does have a
beautiful piece of driftwood that he hides in (it's also growing a
emerald green coat of algae! LOL)

The algae is beautiful really -- just a shame to be scrapping it off
the front of the glass when some little fish could be lovin' it!

And as far as "checking the Pleco out" -- this guy's so elusive, there
have been days on end when I can't even find him (and this is only a
30 gal. tank). Sometimes when I'm vacuuming and move a rock or the
driftwood, I see a blur dart across the tank...so I got quite a
chuckle out of your suggestion that I make sure his eyes are clear and
shiny!

Let me know what you think my chances are with keeping a little oto at
7.8 pH






____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business?
Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19656 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks/ thin glass
The tanks are made with the same dimensions.


----- Original Message ----
From: "agentscullyeyore@..." <agentscullyeyore@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 2:13:13 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: checking for leaks/ thin glass


hrm that is a thought have to see what the other say or do that after I
reseal the cocking..

also realized I haven't a clue if this is thinner glass or not.. is there a
way to tell if the glass is too thin for water?? Shannon

Perhaps if the tank is filled with water and ammo lock added for a
while before adding any fish? Might draw out the urine?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19657 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms
I few months ago I had bristle worms in my aquarium... I purchased an
Arrow Crab because I was told that they would eat them... For a while I
saw no bristle worm activity what so ever but it seems they are
reproducing faster than they can be eaten... I looked in my aquarium
last night and saw several small ones hanging out of my live rock...
There is nothing in this tank but live rock, one fish, 5 hermit crabs
and an arrow crab... Any suggestions on getting rid of them without
harming anything else in the aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19658 From: Nedra Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms
Sorry for my ignorance but what in the world is a "live rock!"

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "FoRTy-TwO" <wassergottin@...>
wrote:
>
> I few months ago I had bristle worms in my aquarium... I purchased
an
> Arrow Crab because I was told that they would eat them... For a
while I
> saw no bristle worm activity what so ever but it seems they are
> reproducing faster than they can be eaten... I looked in my
aquarium
> last night and saw several small ones hanging out of my live rock...
> There is nothing in this tank but live rock, one fish, 5 hermit
crabs
> and an arrow crab... Any suggestions on getting rid of them without
> harming anything else in the aquarium?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19659 From: Farscape Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: I need a recommendation for an algae eater
CAE's are only aggressive once they reach around 3"-3.5". Smaller ones
are usually not aggressive (but they do get to around 6" eventually).

The smaller ones are really great for algae, and they even seem to like
the horrible black algae that nothing else pays attention to!

However, once your CAE starts to mature, put him in a tank/pond with
LARGE, fast swimming fish or sell or give him to someone who can do so,
as otherwise they will harass other fish and when they catch up, will
suck aggressively at their body slime, finding it tastes better than algae.

At the point you notice it harassing any other fish, move it soon, as it
will get more & more aggressive to the point it will kill other fish
scraping off their body slime, and may even turn cannibal at that point
as well.

BTW, these guys are FAST! The larger they get, the faster they can
swim, making them hard to catch, and they can also get spooked easily
and jump out of their tank! Make sure you have a fairly heavy cover, if
possible, as I had one that knocked open a plastic cover at times.

I'm speaking from experience here, FWIW.


Nedra wrote, On 11/9/2006 12:20 PM:
> I read in some of the posts that the fish called a Chinese Algae Eater
> can attack the other fish and eat their slime coats off -- so I don't
> want to get one of those for sure!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19660 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms
Live rock is rock that has coraline and tiny organisms on it... The rock isn't actually live... The things on it are

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums



----- Original Message ----
From: Nedra <terrierlover2002@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 4:01:29 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms

Sorry for my ignorance but what in the world is a "live rock!"

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "FoRTy-TwO" <wassergottin@ ...>
wrote:
>
> I few months ago I had bristle worms in my aquarium... I purchased
an
> Arrow Crab because I was told that they would eat them... For a
while I
> saw no bristle worm activity what so ever but it seems they are
> reproducing faster than they can be eaten... I looked in my
aquarium
> last night and saw several small ones hanging out of my live rock...
> There is nothing in this tank but live rock, one fish, 5 hermit
crabs
> and an arrow crab... Any suggestions on getting rid of them without
> harming anything else in the aquarium?
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19661 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms
Live rock is what is found in Salt water tanks. What you can do to catch the Bristle worms is to take either nylons or panty hose and put a clump of frozen food inside them when the worm try to get the food they will stick to the nylons just be carefull when removing it so you don't get stuck by them

Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote: Sorry for my ignorance but what in the world is a "live rock!"

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "FoRTy-TwO" <wassergottin@...>
wrote:
>
> I few months ago I had bristle worms in my aquarium... I purchased
an
> Arrow Crab because I was told that they would eat them... For a
while I
> saw no bristle worm activity what so ever but it seems they are
> reproducing faster than they can be eaten... I looked in my
aquarium
> last night and saw several small ones hanging out of my live rock...
> There is nothing in this tank but live rock, one fish, 5 hermit
crabs
> and an arrow crab... Any suggestions on getting rid of them without
> harming anything else in the aquarium?
>






---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19662 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Re: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for
I've not had experience with otos in water above pH 7. I have heard, and
others here have strengthened that, otos can be kept in water that is
quite alkaline. I believe the failure of most people with otos is that
they did not have enough algae for them to eat, and they simply starved.

Best not to screw with water chemistry. If you have a high pH, keep fish
that like a high pH. If you pH is low, keep fish that like that kind of
water. Also keep in mind that many fish can, and do, live quite well in
water whose pH is not even close to what the literature may say.
However, there are those fish when placed in a pH that is above or below
a known range, will simply keel over and die.

Also, keep in mind that body and mouth shape can tell you a lot about a
fish. Most fish with a sucker mouth have a low profile, and some are
quite streamlined. The sucker mouth helps fish to hang onto something.
OK, you say, they can hang onto a vertical surface, or upside down. The
first to eat, the second to hide. Maybe so, maybe not. Look at the body.
Looks like a fish built for moving. You are now shaking your head in
agreement. After all, you have already mentioned the blur he is when you
disturb him.

OK, now let us take our brains out of the aquarium. Let's think about
what a sucker mouth and a streamlined body can mean in nature. Think of
a stream where many of these fish come from. Many streams are rocky and
have other obstructions. Hey, the sucker mouth can be used to hold on to
those objects. Think of another aspect of many streams--the relatively
fast flow of water. Also, think of the objects in the stream that might
have algae on them, and where that algae would be located. That would
mean that the fish would be found right in the flow of the water. He has
the mouth to scrape the algae and hang on to the surface (with help from
the fin structure that we have thus far ignored), and a body shape to
allow water to flow more easily around it.

Now that you have an idea of the environment the fish may have come
from, you can start to make some assumptions about the water it is found
in. Generally, but not necessarily, stream water is harder and higher in
pH than that found in many lakes or larger, slower moving rivers. They
can also be cooler.

Enough for now. I'm tired from a long week with not enough sleep, and
this TV show is distracting me more than it should.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Nedra
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 10:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a
recommendation for an algae eater


I went out on the web to search about the otocinclus affinis and the
two pieces of info (one wikipedia, another from an aquarist site) both
alluded to the sensitivity of this little guy and the fact that he
likes acidic water. My water straight from the tap is 7.8 and I'm far
too much of an amateur to try to adjust it... I'm feeling challenged
just testing for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates!...grin;)

What are an oto's chances of adapting and thriving in akaline levels
up to 7.8?
BTW, Steve thanks for talking about the Pleco -- he does have a
beautiful piece of driftwood that he hides in (it's also growing a
emerald green coat of algae! LOL)

The algae is beautiful really -- just a shame to be scrapping it off
the front of the glass when some little fish could be lovin' it!

And as far as "checking the Pleco out" -- this guy's so elusive, there
have been days on end when I can't even find him (and this is only a
30 gal. tank). Sometimes when I'm vacuuming and move a rock or the
driftwood, I see a blur dart across the tank...so I got quite a
chuckle out of your suggestion that I make sure his eyes are clear and
shiny!

Let me know what you think my chances are with keeping a little oto at
7.8 pH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19663 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/10/2006
Subject: Borneo Suckers
I watched the neatest thing today. My borneo sucker
turned from brown and beigs to brown and greed right
before my eyes! :) I added a broken up algea
wafer/pellet and shrimp pellets to my tank for a bit
of extra food (since I really don't have much natural
algea growing and someone mentioned that they like
shrimp pellets). One of my borneo suckers went nuts
after the shrimp pellet and absolutley devoured it...
then went after the algea scaring off my panda corys
(who I ended up feeding a bit more to in their own
corner). Well while eating the algea my sucker turned
from beige to green within a matter of seconds getting
darker green by the second... I had never seen
anything like that before. Then she (he?) sucked her
way up the glass and I got a good look at her stomach
- full of green. It was sooooo cool.



____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19664 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: checking for leaks/ thin glass
You could use a caliper or a micrometer to measure the thickness of the
glass, or you could just take a ruler to the edge of the glass at a
corner and see how thick it is. The required thickness of glass for a
given size tank can vary since tempered glass used in some larger
aquaria can be thinner than glass that is not tempered.

For a 30 gallon tank (I think that is what we are talking about), You'll
want sides that are about 0.25 inches thick, and a bottom that is about
3/8". For a 300 gallon, those thicknesses would be about 0.75" for the
sides and the bottom being about 1.0"

As for adding ammo-lock, or another ammonia blocker, you would need to
add it for an indeterminate period of time. Also, though I do not really
know anything about it, there may be other substances present that may
prove harmful to fish in sufficient quantity that you would have no
defense against.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 2:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: checking for leaks/ thin glass


hrm that is a thought have to see what the other say or do that after I

reseal the cocking..

also realized I haven't a clue if this is thinner glass or not.. is
there a
way to tell if the glass is too thin for water?? Shannon




Perhaps if the tank is filled with water and ammo lock added for a
while before adding any fish? Might draw out the urine?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19665 From: cory Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: salt water
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "William Autry" <paulandsue1@...>
wrote:
>the first thing youreally need to do is get your live rocks sand and
water in the tank get the filter going and the heater set at the temp
you want get the salt mix to the levels you need then fill the tank it
will take about a month before you get to put any fish in the tank
cause you have to "cycle" the tank the best thing you can do is read
up on how to do this cause it is kinda different for all tanks
depending on the size but the end result is 0 nitrites 0 nitrates and
0 ammonia
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19666 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Plecos
Hello all

I know this topic has come up before, so I apologize in advance.....I used to have a pleco in my ten gallon years ago, and he lived a long time. We've had our 55 gallon running for five years now and have tried about three times to get a pleco to survive with no success. We bought one today, the last ditched effort to keep one. It was mentioned before that they can be fed other items rather than algae. I am thinking that that is our problem, we were only giving tablets and whatever algae is in our tank. I think cucumber was mentioned? Thanks again!

Cynthia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19667 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
My plecos are doing great in my 55's. We feed the fish flakes, cichlid food
(as we have cichlids in there), shrimp pellets, and algae disks. We also
have a lot of plants(live). I occasionally throw some broccoli or some
cuckes (mainly whenever we have them for dinner...I put some aside for the
plecos heheh). I also encourage algae growth. I will even go to our local
nurseries that sell pond plants and harvest some of the algae from them.
They usually give it to me for free (as well as the duckweed they get...my
angels love it). Plecos are pretty hardy fish. Have you had any issues
with he other fish int he tank? Also...what kind of pleco are you referring
to? I have 2 common plecos (the usual brown and black spotted plecos you
see int he stores) as well as an albino dwarf bristlenose and a bulldog
pleco. I really don;t do anything special for them and they are doing just
fine. Maybe some of the other species are more sensitive?

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Saturday, 11 November 2006 13:07
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plecos



Hello all

I know this topic has come up before, so I apologize in advance.....I used
to have a pleco in my ten gallon years ago, and he lived a long time. We've
had our 55 gallon running for five years now and have tried about three
times to get a pleco to survive with no success. We bought one today, the
last ditched effort to keep one. It was mentioned before that they can be
fed other items rather than algae. I am thinking that that is our problem,
we were only giving tablets and whatever algae is in our tank. I think
cucumber was mentioned? Thanks again!

Cynthia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19668 From: wendie Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Okay, step number one is to determine the health of the pleco. His eyes
should not be sunken in and his stomach should be slightly plump.
Otherwise, he's in poor health to start with.

Number two is to determine just what type of pleco you have purchased. Not
all types of plecos eat algae. Some must have wood in their diet to
survive. Most of them will eat meaty foods, wafers, flakes, frozen foods -
BS, Bloodworms, etc. Veggies are good. Cukes, zucchini (which mine all
love), sweet potato, peas, etc. However, if it's a wood eater and there's
no wood in the tank, then it won't live very long.

Wendie






-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 2:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plecos


Hello all

I know this topic has come up before, so I apologize in advance.....I used
to have a pleco in my ten gallon years ago, and he lived a long time. We've
had our 55 gallon running for five years now and have tried about three
times to get a pleco to survive with no success. We bought one today, the
last ditched effort to keep one. It was mentioned before that they can be
fed other items rather than algae. I am thinking that that is our problem,
we were only giving tablets and whatever algae is in our tank. I think
cucumber was mentioned? Thanks again!

Cynthia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19669 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Hi Wendy

Thank you. It is a common pleco - just plain old brown......We've always had wood in our tank....Thank you for the advice on the feeding, I will take a picture of him in a while and post it here......

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plecos


Okay, step number one is to determine the health of the pleco. His eyes
should not be sunken in and his stomach should be slightly plump.
Otherwise, he's in poor health to start with.

Number two is to determine just what type of pleco you have purchased. Not
all types of plecos eat algae. Some must have wood in their diet to
survive. Most of them will eat meaty foods, wafers, flakes, frozen foods -
BS, Bloodworms, etc. Veggies are good. Cukes, zucchini (which mine all
love), sweet potato, peas, etc. However, if it's a wood eater and there's
no wood in the tank, then it won't live very long.

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 2:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plecos

Hello all

I know this topic has come up before, so I apologize in advance.....I used
to have a pleco in my ten gallon years ago, and he lived a long time. We've
had our 55 gallon running for five years now and have tried about three
times to get a pleco to survive with no success. We bought one today, the
last ditched effort to keep one. It was mentioned before that they can be
fed other items rather than algae. I am thinking that that is our problem,
we were only giving tablets and whatever algae is in our tank. I think
cucumber was mentioned? Thanks again!

Cynthia





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19670 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Hi Eric

thanks for the reply. No issues with any other fish, the youngest one is about 8 months old or so with the remainder well over a year old. The one I had when it was in my ten gallon (and did well) was a common one, as well as the one we bought today. You post makes me think - I am pretty sure we bought "fancier" (for lack of a better word) in the past and they never lasted.

I will try the cucumber tonight before we shut the lights off. Thank you for your post, I loved the pleco I used to have and have been very disappointed about the last three we got!

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: Rev. Eric Roberts
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 3:00 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plecos


My plecos are doing great in my 55's. We feed the fish flakes, cichlid food
(as we have cichlids in there), shrimp pellets, and algae disks. We also
have a lot of plants(live). I occasionally throw some broccoli or some
cuckes (mainly whenever we have them for dinner...I put some aside for the
plecos heheh). I also encourage algae growth. I will even go to our local
nurseries that sell pond plants and harvest some of the algae from them.
They usually give it to me for free (as well as the duckweed they get...my
angels love it). Plecos are pretty hardy fish. Have you had any issues
with he other fish int he tank? Also...what kind of pleco are you referring
to? I have 2 common plecos (the usual brown and black spotted plecos you
see int he stores) as well as an albino dwarf bristlenose and a bulldog
pleco. I really don;t do anything special for them and they are doing just
fine. Maybe some of the other species are more sensitive?

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Saturday, 11 November 2006 13:07
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plecos

Hello all

I know this topic has come up before, so I apologize in advance.....I used
to have a pleco in my ten gallon years ago, and he lived a long time. We've
had our 55 gallon running for five years now and have tried about three
times to get a pleco to survive with no success. We bought one today, the
last ditched effort to keep one. It was mentioned before that they can be
fed other items rather than algae. I am thinking that that is our problem,
we were only giving tablets and whatever algae is in our tank. I think
cucumber was mentioned? Thanks again!

Cynthia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19671 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Surprisingly enough...Meijer's carries some really good driftwood that sinks
right away. My smaller plecos love it.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of wendie
Sent: Saturday, 11 November 2006 14:13
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plecos



Okay, step number one is to determine the health of the pleco. His eyes
should not be sunken in and his stomach should be slightly plump.
Otherwise, he's in poor health to start with.

Number two is to determine just what type of pleco you have purchased. Not
all types of plecos eat algae. Some must have wood in their diet to
survive. Most of them will eat meaty foods, wafers, flakes, frozen foods -
BS, Bloodworms, etc. Veggies are good. Cukes, zucchini (which mine all
love), sweet potato, peas, etc. However, if it's a wood eater and there's
no wood in the tank, then it won't live very long.

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 2:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plecos

Hello all

I know this topic has come up before, so I apologize in advance.....I used
to have a pleco in my ten gallon years ago, and he lived a long time. We've
had our 55 gallon running for five years now and have tried about three
times to get a pleco to survive with no success. We bought one today, the
last ditched effort to keep one. It was mentioned before that they can be
fed other items rather than algae. I am thinking that that is our problem,
we were only giving tablets and whatever algae is in our tank. I think
cucumber was mentioned? Thanks again!

Cynthia






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19672 From: wendie Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
I'm putting some zucchini in tonight that the little BN's just love.
They need to fight the loaches for it though.

I use sinking algae wafers by Hikari and Bio Blend for bottom feeders
which they just love.

Wendie



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 3:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Plecos


Hi Wendy

Thank you. It is a common pleco - just plain old brown......We've always
had wood in our tank....Thank you for the advice on the feeding, I will take
a picture of him in a while and post it here......

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: wendie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plecos

Okay, step number one is to determine the health of the pleco. His eyes
should not be sunken in and his stomach should be slightly plump.
Otherwise, he's in poor health to start with.

Number two is to determine just what type of pleco you have purchased. Not
all types of plecos eat algae. Some must have wood in their diet to
survive. Most of them will eat meaty foods, wafers, flakes, frozen foods -
BS, Bloodworms, etc. Veggies are good. Cukes, zucchini (which mine all
love), sweet potato, peas, etc. However, if it's a wood eater and there's
no wood in the tank, then it won't live very long.

Wendie

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 2:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plecos

Hello all

I know this topic has come up before, so I apologize in advance.....I used
to have a pleco in my ten gallon years ago, and he lived a long time.
We've
had our 55 gallon running for five years now and have tried about three
times to get a pleco to survive with no success. We bought one today, the
last ditched effort to keep one. It was mentioned before that they can be
fed other items rather than algae. I am thinking that that is our problem,
we were only giving tablets and whatever algae is in our tank. I think
cucumber was mentioned? Thanks again!

Cynthia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19673 From: cory Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: brown algae has invaded!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
>the same thing is happening in my tank however i don't know what is
causing it other than the natural cyclin gin the tank i have done the
necessary water changes and it still comes back any suggestions are
welcome my tank is a saltwater setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19674 From: snerticus Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for an
Man, I'm sorry I'm always responding late, but I only read the email
digests and for some reason everytime I get them, they are a few days
behind.

The reason I'm writing this time is because I have a tank with
crushed coral as a substrate with inverts in it, therefore the pH is
high - around 7.6 - 7.8. I also have in with the inverts a clown
pleco who is very, very fat and an otocinclus. They both are doing
extraordinarily well in that tank. However, they don't eat much
algae. The thing they love most is the tropical sinking wafers from
Hikari. There is a picture of a peppered cory cat on the front and
the package is orange and white. I must clarify that these are NOT
the algae wafers with the pleco on the package, just the sinking
wafers for bottom feeders in general - as I originally bought them
for my Yo Yo Loach (who loves them as well). The clown pleco goes
bonkers for these wafers and the otocinclus will eat these as well as
other sinking pellets. The oto is not fat, but still eats like a
pig, but the clown pleco is round like a little piglet. The only
problem that I had with my otos were that I originally bought two
from a local PetsMart, and one of them died about a week later from a
swollen abdomen - I can only guess it was parasites. This one's been
fine for months now. They were both originally put in a lower pH
tank with lots of algae. Now, however, my oto is in the higher pH
tank (has been ever since the other oto died) and scavenges the
bottom like the pleco. And by the way, I have never had any luck
with plecos - go figure!

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@...>
wrote:
>
>
> I went out on the web to search about the otocinclus affinis and
the
> two pieces of info (one wikipedia, another from an aquarist site)
both
> alluded to the sensitivity of this little guy and the fact that he
> likes acidic water. My water straight from the tap is 7.8 and I'm
far
> too much of an amateur to try to adjust it... I'm feeling
challenged
> just testing for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates!...grin;)
>
> What are an oto's chances of adapting and thriving in akaline
levels
> up to 7.8?
> BTW, Steve thanks for talking about the Pleco -- he does have a
> beautiful piece of driftwood that he hides in (it's also growing a
> emerald green coat of algae! LOL)
>
> The algae is beautiful really -- just a shame to be scrapping it
off
> the front of the glass when some little fish could be lovin' it!
>
> And as far as "checking the Pleco out" -- this guy's so elusive,
there
> have been days on end when I can't even find him (and this is only
a
> 30 gal. tank). Sometimes when I'm vacuuming and move a rock or the
> driftwood, I see a blur dart across the tank...so I got quite a
> chuckle out of your suggestion that I make sure his eyes are clear
and
> shiny!
>
> Let me know what you think my chances are with keeping a little oto
at
> 7.8 pH
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19675 From: cory Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "momofholly2002" <marian816@...>
wrote:
>
> there are a lot of fish that you have to put aquarium salt in the
water for otherwise you will end up with fish either dying or getting
diseases from not haveing the right electrolytes in their body that
they get from the salt but don't use sea salt as it may be too harsh
on them best to get the aquarium salt for freshwater tanks and you
only need a table spoon per gallon and don't put it directlyin the
tank mix it up in water first then add it to the tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19676 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Java Moss Background
Please forgive the cross posting.

There was a post on one of these lists about creating a java moss wall for
the rear of the tank. It uses java moss and netting and is held to the rear
glass by suction cups. I saved the URL but now I can't find it. If any one
has it or can give me some guidance as to where to find it I would
appreciate it. I have tried various searches on google with no luck.

Rob
Do you realize that in about 40 years, we'll have millions of old ladies
running around with tattoos and pierced navels?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19677 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss Background
Google is your friend:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&hs=Tdl&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozil
la:en-US:official&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=%22java+moss+w
all%22&spell=1

Since this most definitely wraps, here is the TinyURL for it:

http://tinyurl.com/yn7qup


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Rob Zanussi
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 11:01 PM
To: AngieandAndrewsAquatics@...;
ACE_fish_club@yahoogroups.com; CalgaryAquariums@yahoogroups.com;
UniQuaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Java Moss Background

Please forgive the cross posting.

There was a post on one of these lists about creating a java moss wall
for
the rear of the tank. It uses java moss and netting and is held to the
rear
glass by suction cups. I saved the URL but now I can't find it. If any
one
has it or can give me some guidance as to where to find it I would
appreciate it. I have tried various searches on google with no luck.

Rob
Do you realize that in about 40 years, we'll have millions of old ladies
running around with tattoos and pierced navels?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19678 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/11/2006
Subject: Re: Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a recommendation for
I had that same problem with the oto's. I had 4 of them and 3 of the died.
The 4th has been going strong for almost 2 years now. From what I have
read, they are pretty hit or miss.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of snerticus
Sent: Saturday, 11 November 2006 18:51
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a
recommendation for an algae eater



Man, I'm sorry I'm always responding late, but I only read the email
digests and for some reason everytime I get them, they are a few days
behind.

The reason I'm writing this time is because I have a tank with
crushed coral as a substrate with inverts in it, therefore the pH is
high - around 7.6 - 7.8. I also have in with the inverts a clown
pleco who is very, very fat and an otocinclus. They both are doing
extraordinarily well in that tank. However, they don't eat much
algae. The thing they love most is the tropical sinking wafers from
Hikari. There is a picture of a peppered cory cat on the front and
the package is orange and white. I must clarify that these are NOT
the algae wafers with the pleco on the package, just the sinking
wafers for bottom feeders in general - as I originally bought them
for my Yo Yo Loach (who loves them as well). The clown pleco goes
bonkers for these wafers and the otocinclus will eat these as well as
other sinking pellets. The oto is not fat, but still eats like a
pig, but the clown pleco is round like a little piglet. The only
problem that I had with my otos were that I originally bought two
from a local PetsMart, and one of them died about a week later from a
swollen abdomen - I can only guess it was parasites. This one's been
fine for months now. They were both originally put in a lower pH
tank with lots of algae. Now, however, my oto is in the higher pH
tank (has been ever since the other oto died) and scavenges the
bottom like the pleco. And by the way, I have never had any luck
with plecos - go figure!

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Nedra" <terrierlover2002@...>
wrote:
>
>
> I went out on the web to search about the otocinclus affinis and
the
> two pieces of info (one wikipedia, another from an aquarist site)
both
> alluded to the sensitivity of this little guy and the fact that he
> likes acidic water. My water straight from the tap is 7.8 and I'm
far
> too much of an amateur to try to adjust it... I'm feeling
challenged
> just testing for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates!...grin;)
>
> What are an oto's chances of adapting and thriving in akaline
levels
> up to 7.8?
> BTW, Steve thanks for talking about the Pleco -- he does have a
> beautiful piece of driftwood that he hides in (it's also growing a
> emerald green coat of algae! LOL)
>
> The algae is beautiful really -- just a shame to be scrapping it
off
> the front of the glass when some little fish could be lovin' it!
>
> And as far as "checking the Pleco out" -- this guy's so elusive,
there
> have been days on end when I can't even find him (and this is only
a
> 30 gal. tank). Sometimes when I'm vacuuming and move a rock or the
> driftwood, I see a blur dart across the tank...so I got quite a
> chuckle out of your suggestion that I make sure his eyes are clear
and
> shiny!
>
> Let me know what you think my chances are with keeping a little oto
at
> 7.8 pH
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19679 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms
Whats wrong with bristle worms dont they aerate the sand?


----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 4:25:24 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Getting Rid Of Bristle Worms

I few months ago I had bristle worms in my aquarium... I purchased an
Arrow Crab because I was told that they would eat them... For a while I
saw no bristle worm activity what so ever but it seems they are
reproducing faster than they can be eaten... I looked in my aquarium
last night and saw several small ones hanging out of my live rock...
There is nothing in this tank but live rock, one fish, 5 hermit crabs
and an arrow crab... Any suggestions on getting rid of them without
harming anything else in the aquarium?






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19680 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: Plecos
Driftwood, cucumbers, zuccini and peas they have eaten so far.


----- Original Message ----
From: Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 2:06:55 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plecos

Hello all

I know this topic has come up before, so I apologize in advance..... I used to have a pleco in my ten gallon years ago, and he lived a long time. We've had our 55 gallon running for five years now and have tried about three times to get a pleco to survive with no success. We bought one today, the last ditched effort to keep one. It was mentioned before that they can be fed other items rather than algae. I am thinking that that is our problem, we were only giving tablets and whatever algae is in our tank. I think cucumber was mentioned? Thanks again!

Cynthia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19681 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Salt is overused in freshwater aquaria and, unless treating for a
disease or disorder, and is absolutely unnecessary. Fish have lived,
thrived and evolved in freshwater for millions of years without the
addition of salt. There are those proponents of salt who, for whatever
reason prefer to keep salt in their freshwater tanks, and while not at
all necessary, a small amount of salt may be included with their
fishes' water; 1 (one) Tablespoon per 5 gallons as being generally
accepted. This will have the benefits of promoting and faster
replacement of the protective body slime in cases of minor injury or
netting that can remove it, as well as stabilizing bodily electrolytes
in the event of a more serious injury. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "momofholly2002" <marian816@...>
wrote:
>
> Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank? If
> so how? If not how much is safe?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19682 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Cory, In general, and with few exceptions, "aquarium salt" is not
needed for the proper maintenance of freshwater fishes; they will not
die nor get diseased as a result of the lack of it. They have evolved
in freshwater for eons with the ability of normally maintaining the
proper balance of electrolytes within their bodies. While not needed,
small amount (1 Tbs per 5 Gal.) of salt may be used if preferred, with
sea salt having the most benefit -- if you consider the addition of
salt beneficial -- as this salt has all the trace elements found within
the body and is in no way "too harsh." This salt is more expensive
however.

For all the "benefits" afforded by the addition of salt to freshwater
tanks, table salt (Sodium Chloride) is as good as any salt you can use
and is the most reasonably priced, followed by somewhat more
expensive "aquarium salt" which is the same thing (Sodium Chloride).

For all intents and purposes, marine salt is essentially the same, with
the addition of the afore mentioned trace elements. The major
composition (97.3%) of marine salt consists of a combination of both
Sodium Chloride and Magnesium Sulfate, with the remainder (2.7%) being
those trace elements (calcium, phosphate, carbon, etc.). Of this
97.3%, 83% of this (more correctly, 83.48%) is Sodium Chloride, with
the balance of Magnesium Sulfate being 16% (more correctly, 16.52%).
Magnesium Sulfate is also known as Epsom Salts, a very benefitial
compound having medicinal values, which both hardens and buffers the
water. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cory" <sollerc692000@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "momofholly2002" <marian816@>
> wrote:
> >
> > there are a lot of fish that you have to put aquarium salt in the
> water for otherwise you will end up with fish either dying or getting
> diseases from not haveing the right electrolytes in their body that
> they get from the salt but don't use sea salt as it may be too harsh
> on them best to get the aquarium salt for freshwater tanks and you
> only need a table spoon per gallon and don't put it directlyin the
> tank mix it up in water first then add it to the tank
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19683 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: Java Moss Background
I don't have a link, but an easy way to go (and cheap
too) is to get plastic canvas from either your local
dollar store or craft store, then with nylon string
(fishing line) or cotton thread tie the java moss to
it. Since it is full of holes the java moss will
eventually wrap itself up well on it and will fill out
nicely.
I'm thinking about doing something like that to cover
my heater... has anyone tried making a tube covered
with java moss (or something else) to cover a heater?

--- Rob Zanussi <rzanussi@...> wrote:

> Please forgive the cross posting.
>
> There was a post on one of these lists about
> creating a java moss wall for
> the rear of the tank. It uses java moss and netting
> and is held to the rear
> glass by suction cups. I saved the URL but now I
> can't find it. If any one
> has it or can give me some guidance as to where to
> find it I would
> appreciate it. I have tried various searches on
> google with no luck.
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19684 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Freshwater has salts in it. If you were to go to a stream, river, or
lake...anywhere in he world...you would find salts in he water. The
difference between saltwater and freshwater is the concentration. Why do
you think that lakes like Salt Lake in Utah, or the Dead Sea have high salt
content? They didn't get it from the oceans...they get because of the high
evaporation rate which concentrates the amount of salt in the water. So the
notion that fresh water is salt free is incorrect. Much of the processing
that our tap water goes through removes much of the natural mineral content
from the water...so unless you are using well water, which contains much of
the natural mineral content, adding salt is a good thing that helps your
fish to stay healthy.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, 12 November 2006 07:53
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ? about salt



Salt is overused in freshwater aquaria and, unless treating for a
disease or disorder, and is absolutely unnecessary. Fish have lived,
thrived and evolved in freshwater for millions of years without the
addition of salt. There are those proponents of salt who, for whatever
reason prefer to keep salt in their freshwater tanks, and while not at
all necessary, a small amount of salt may be included with their
fishes' water; 1 (one) Tablespoon per 5 gallons as being generally
accepted. This will have the benefits of promoting and faster
replacement of the protective body slime in cases of minor injury or
netting that can remove it, as well as stabilizing bodily electrolytes
in the event of a more serious injury. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"momofholly2002" <marian816@...>
wrote:
>
> Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank? If
> so how? If not how much is safe?
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19685 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
What salt do you use Ray?


----- Original Message ----
From: Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:23:41 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ? about salt

Cory, In general, and with few exceptions, "aquarium salt" is not
needed for the proper maintenance of freshwater fishes; they will not
die nor get diseased as a result of the lack of it. They have evolved
in freshwater for eons with the ability of normally maintaining the
proper balance of electrolytes within their bodies. While not needed,
small amount (1 Tbs per 5 Gal.) of salt may be used if preferred, with
sea salt having the most benefit -- if you consider the addition of
salt beneficial -- as this salt has all the trace elements found within
the body and is in no way "too harsh." This salt is more expensive
however.

For all the "benefits" afforded by the addition of salt to freshwater
tanks, table salt (Sodium Chloride) is as good as any salt you can use
and is the most reasonably priced, followed by somewhat more
expensive "aquarium salt" which is the same thing (Sodium Chloride).

For all intents and purposes, marine salt is essentially the same, with
the addition of the afore mentioned trace elements. The major
composition (97.3%) of marine salt consists of a combination of both
Sodium Chloride and Magnesium Sulfate, with the remainder (2.7%) being
those trace elements (calcium, phosphate, carbon, etc.). Of this
97.3%, 83% of this (more correctly, 83.48%) is Sodium Chloride, with
the balance of Magnesium Sulfate being 16% (more correctly, 16.52%).
Magnesium Sulfate is also known as Epsom Salts, a very benefitial
compound having medicinal values, which both hardens and buffers the
water. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "cory" <sollerc692000@ ...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "momofholly2002" <marian816@>
> wrote:
> >
> > there are a lot of fish that you have to put aquarium salt in the
> water for otherwise you will end up with fish either dying or getting
> diseases from not haveing the right electrolytes in their body that
> they get from the salt but don't use sea salt as it may be too harsh
> on them best to get the aquarium salt for freshwater tanks and you
> only need a table spoon per gallon and don't put it directlyin the
> tank mix it up in water first then add it to the tank
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19686 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
The processing most of our drinking water goes through does not remove
mineral content. In fact, some may be added. There is a filtration
stage, where suspended matter is removed to a certain extent. A
combination of ammonia and chlorine (chloramines) is added to kill
harmful organisms. If the pH is low, a compound is added to raise the pH
and protect the pipes.

Where minerals and salts may be removed is at the end point when the
user filters the water with any of the water purifying filters that are
available commercially. Also, the use of activated carbon will remove
salts from the water. Replacing them in such a situation is an uphill
battle. As a rule, activated carbon should not be used unless it is
indicated, such as in the removal of a medication from the water.

The argument here has been that it is not necessary to add salts to the
water in a freshwater aquarium, unless such treatment is indicated by
reason of disease, or physical impairment.

Those of us who have been around for a while know it is better not to
mess with water chemistry, but rather to keep fish that can be kept with
the water chemistry we are presented with. This is a lesson that has
often been learned the hard way.

Again, there is no need to add salts to your water unless there is an
indication to do so. As a treatment it is often the first course one
should take for disease or parasites, along with a water change and an
increase in temperature. Generally a tablespoon (3 teaspoons) of salts
per 5 gallons is sufficient. Some treatments may require more. I have
found that the use of a good quality marine salt seems to produce the
best results, but have used kosher salt and even table salt when I have
had to add salt to the water in a freshwater environment.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Rev. Eric Roberts
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 12:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: ? about salt

Freshwater has salts in it. If you were to go to a stream, river, or
lake...anywhere in he world...you would find salts in he water. The
difference between saltwater and freshwater is the concentration. Why
do
you think that lakes like Salt Lake in Utah, or the Dead Sea have high
salt
content? They didn't get it from the oceans...they get because of the
high
evaporation rate which concentrates the amount of salt in the water. So
the
notion that fresh water is salt free is incorrect. Much of the
processing
that our tap water goes through removes much of the natural mineral
content
from the water...so unless you are using well water, which contains much
of
the natural mineral content, adding salt is a good thing that helps your
fish to stay healthy.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, 12 November 2006 07:53
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ? about salt



Salt is overused in freshwater aquaria and, unless treating for a
disease or disorder, and is absolutely unnecessary. Fish have lived,
thrived and evolved in freshwater for millions of years without the
addition of salt. There are those proponents of salt who, for whatever
reason prefer to keep salt in their freshwater tanks, and while not at
all necessary, a small amount of salt may be included with their
fishes' water; 1 (one) Tablespoon per 5 gallons as being generally
accepted. This will have the benefits of promoting and faster
replacement of the protective body slime in cases of minor injury or
netting that can remove it, as well as stabilizing bodily electrolytes
in the event of a more serious injury. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
"momofholly2002" <marian816@...>
wrote:
>
> Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank? If
> so how? If not how much is safe?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19687 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: tank deminsions
_http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm_
(http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm)

using the above web site I am tying to find the name or gallon size for my
new tank.. this is what I measure 12 inches tall, 30 inches long and 13 inches
across the top... is this what they call a 20 L I cant for sure figure it
out.. also how many gallons does that mean it will hold.. thanks Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19688 From: jules27au Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Breeding Neons & Silver Dollars
G'day,

Since I have successfully bred guppies within a community fish tank,
I'm wondering if it's possible to breed neons & silver dollars and if
so how?

Cheers

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19689 From: David Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Your aquarium will actually hold 20.25 gallons without any gravel in
it. Using this formula for any aquarium : L*W*H / 231
David

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
> _http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm_
> (http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm)
>
> using the above web site I am tying to find the name or gallon
size for my
> new tank.. this is what I measure 12 inches tall, 30 inches long
and 13 inches
> across the top... is this what they call a 20 L I cant for sure
figure it
> out.. also how many gallons does that mean it will hold.. thanks
Shannon
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19690 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
oh thanks David that is handy... shannon




Your aquarium will actually hold 20.25 gallons without any gravel in
it. Using this formula for any aquarium : L*W*H / 231
David









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19691 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Sounds like a 20L (Long) to me. The height is usually 13 inches and the width 12.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 8:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tank deminsions

_http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm_
(http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm)

using the above web site I am tying to find the name or gallon size for my
new tank.. this is what I measure 12 inches tall, 30 inches long and 13 inches
across the top... is this what they call a 20 L I cant for sure figure it
out.. also how many gallons does that mean it will hold.. thanks Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19692 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: I'm back and sooo happy!
I went to Fort Worth this past weekend and happened upon a fish store
called "That Fish Place." I fell in love.
They had tons of plants I have had a hard time finding as well as fish.
I drove back home, a 5 hour drive, with loads of plants and 5 fish.

What I am most thrilled about is that I came home to see that my two
blue(ish) freshwater angels have LAID EGGS! They are on a leaf of a
large Amazon sword. I am absolutely stoked that they are a pair!!!!

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19693 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Yes, quite agreed! Obviously, freshwater has salts in it, although I
fail to see your point. In nature, only rainwater and snow (and
possibly ice-caps and glaciers) are pure of any such salts. As soon
as rainwater hits the ground it is subject to picking up any salts
that may be present. However, in most lakes and river systems
(excluding the Rift Lakes), where many of our aquarium inhabitants
reside -- and they don't reside in the Great Salt Lake of Utah or the
Dead Sea -- these salts which for the most part consist of calcium
and magnesium carbonates are at a very minimum. While the salt
content of water in the Amazon River will vary, depending upon the
season, it has been found not to be major even though the TDS (Total
Dissolved Solids) will vary with the amount of silt in suspension.
During the breeding season it is not unusual for these Amazon River
salts to be in a viciniity of 3 DH (degrees Hardness) or less,
equating to a bit over 50 ppm (parts per million), a trace amount,
with the fish thriving enough as to induce them to spawn because of
it. Again, I would reiterate that these fish do just fine without
the addition of more salt as some hobbyists insist on doing; there is
no one there on the Amazon River dumping truckloads of salt in the
river.

Comparing the amount of salts found in the water of the major rivers
of the world from which our aquarium fish are collected, the
established allowable parameters for freshwater are up to 1000 ppm,
for slightly saline water -- 1000 to 3000 ppm, for moderately saline
water -- 3000 to 10,000 ppm and for highly saline water -- 10,000 to
35,000 ppm. Ocean water is approximayely 35,000 ppm salts. By this
it can be seen freshwater fish live in water in which the salts
quantity is quite minimal, and while the addition of any small
quantities of sodium salts in which it is normally administered is
not normal to their natural environment, it will not be seen to harm
them if the hobbyist insists on adding it, even if it is not
necessary. Ray

P.S.: By your remark on the subject, I would hope that you are not
insinuating that I said or meant in any way that fresh water is salt-
free, since we all know that in nature this is not true. For you to
have thought otherwise (if you did) was to misread my message. As
the old saying goes, "nature abhors a vacuum," and pure water will
not go unadulterated in the presence of minerals.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rev. Eric Roberts" <woad@...>
wrote:
>
> Freshwater has salts in it. If you were to go to a stream, river,
or
> lake...anywhere in he world...you would find salts in he water. The
> difference between saltwater and freshwater is the concentration.
Why do
> you think that lakes like Salt Lake in Utah, or the Dead Sea have
high salt
> content? They didn't get it from the oceans...they get because of
the high
> evaporation rate which concentrates the amount of salt in the
water. So the
> notion that fresh water is salt free is incorrect. Much of the
processing
> that our tap water goes through removes much of the natural mineral
content
> from the water...so unless you are using well water, which contains
much of
> the natural mineral content, adding salt is a good thing that helps
your
> fish to stay healthy.
>
> Eric
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, 12 November 2006 07:53
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ? about salt
>
>
>
> Salt is overused in freshwater aquaria and, unless treating for a
> disease or disorder, and is absolutely unnecessary. Fish have
lived,
> thrived and evolved in freshwater for millions of years without the
> addition of salt. There are those proponents of salt who, for
whatever
> reason prefer to keep salt in their freshwater tanks, and while not
at
> all necessary, a small amount of salt may be included with their
> fishes' water; 1 (one) Tablespoon per 5 gallons as being generally
> accepted. This will have the benefits of promoting and faster
> replacement of the protective body slime in cases of minor injury
or
> netting that can remove it, as well as stabilizing bodily
electrolytes
> in the event of a more serious injury. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> "momofholly2002" <marian816@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank?
If
> > so how? If not how much is safe?
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19694 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
yep I think that is the census.. the glass feels a bit odd to me not as
glassy if that is a right term than my other tanks.. so im guessing this just
wont work as my new hospital tank boohoo.. Shannon




Sounds like a 20L (Long) to me. The height is usually 13 inches and the
width 12.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19695 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Give it a good cleaning. What you are probably feeling is something on the glass. Did you measure the thickness of the glass with a ruler at the visible seams? A quarter inch should be sufficient, with 3/8" being better for this size tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 10:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] tank deminsions


yep I think that is the census.. the glass feels a bit odd to me not as
glassy if that is a right term than my other tanks.. so im guessing this just
wont work as my new hospital tank boohoo.. Shannon




Sounds like a 20L (Long) to me. The height is usually 13 inches and the
width 12.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19696 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Hi Joseph, As you can see by my reply to Cory, I don't feel that the
addition of salt is needed to properly maintain most freshwater
fish. As such, I do not normally use any salt unless its needed for
extreme situations such as possibly adding it as part of a medicating
procedure in the event of a disease or injury.

Be advised too, that much more salt added to the aquarium than that
which is normally used by some hobbyists can be harmful to some fish
species (Corydoras cats, for instance) and plants.

When using salt in these unusual cases, I use Kosher table salt (more
specifically, Diamond Crystal brand) which I keep on hand at all
times to hatch BBS. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> What salt do you use Ray?
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:23:41 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ? about salt
>
> Cory, In general, and with few exceptions, "aquarium salt" is not
> needed for the proper maintenance of freshwater fishes; they will
not
> die nor get diseased as a result of the lack of it. They have
evolved
> in freshwater for eons with the ability of normally maintaining the
> proper balance of electrolytes within their bodies. While not
needed,
> small amount (1 Tbs per 5 Gal.) of salt may be used if preferred,
with
> sea salt having the most benefit -- if you consider the addition of
> salt beneficial -- as this salt has all the trace elements found
within
> the body and is in no way "too harsh." This salt is more expensive
> however.
>
> For all the "benefits" afforded by the addition of salt to
freshwater
> tanks, table salt (Sodium Chloride) is as good as any salt you can
use
> and is the most reasonably priced, followed by somewhat more
> expensive "aquarium salt" which is the same thing (Sodium
Chloride).
>
> For all intents and purposes, marine salt is essentially the same,
with
> the addition of the afore mentioned trace elements. The major
> composition (97.3%) of marine salt consists of a combination of
both
> Sodium Chloride and Magnesium Sulfate, with the remainder (2.7%)
being
> those trace elements (calcium, phosphate, carbon, etc.). Of this
> 97.3%, 83% of this (more correctly, 83.48%) is Sodium Chloride,
with
> the balance of Magnesium Sulfate being 16% (more correctly,
16.52%).
> Magnesium Sulfate is also known as Epsom Salts, a very benefitial
> compound having medicinal values, which both hardens and buffers
the
> water. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "cory" <sollerc692000@ ...>
wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "momofholly2002"
<marian816@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > there are a lot of fish that you have to put aquarium salt in
the
> > water for otherwise you will end up with fish either dying or
getting
> > diseases from not haveing the right electrolytes in their body
that
> > they get from the salt but don't use sea salt as it may be too
harsh
> > on them best to get the aquarium salt for freshwater tanks and
you
> > only need a table spoon per gallon and don't put it directlyin
the
> > tank mix it up in water first then add it to the tank
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Want to start your own business?
> Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19697 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
I must be measuring wrong cause I am getting a measurement of like 1/8 on
both the new tank and my 20 gallon... I could feel the seem I thought... oh I
need on site help lol.. Shannon




Give it a good cleaning. What you are probably feeling is something on the
glass. Did you measure the thickness of the glass with a ruler at the visible
seams? A quarter inch should be sufficient, with 3/8" being better for this
size tank.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19698 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Leslie, Hope you had a pleasant drive; that was a long one. Was that
drive just for getting to "That Fish Place"? If so, I hope it was
worthwhile -- it appears as if it may have been. Glad to see your
angels have laid eggs. Let us know if and when you need help with
them. Ray

P.S.: There's a "That Fish Place" here in the Northeast, in
Pennsylvania which is always well stocked with both plants and fish.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I went to Fort Worth this past weekend and happened upon a fish store
> called "That Fish Place." I fell in love.
> They had tons of plants I have had a hard time finding as well as
fish.
> I drove back home, a 5 hour drive, with loads of plants and 5 fish.
>
> What I am most thrilled about is that I came home to see that my two
> blue(ish) freshwater angels have LAID EGGS! They are on a leaf of a
> large Amazon sword. I am absolutely stoked that they are a pair!!!!
>
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19699 From: millweem2000 Date: 11/12/2006
Subject: Undergravel Filter Question
Converted an established non-planted tank to planted.

Increased gravel thickness and added laterite.

Recently read an article that said to never use an Undergravel Filter
system in a planted tank but did not say why not.

Does it rob nutrients from plants??? They all seem to be growing.

I have an undergravel setup using two powerheads but could change the
setup if necessary.

Thanks
Mark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19700 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
If that is the case, the glass is too thin to safely hold the water in the tank. If you would like to double check subtract the inside measurement of the length or width from the comparable outside measurement. Divide the difference by two. For instance, if the inside measures 29.5 inches and the outside measures 30 inches, you have a difference of 0.5. Divided by 2 gives you 0.25 which means the glass is 1/4" thick.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] tank deminsions


I must be measuring wrong cause I am getting a measurement of like 1/8 on
both the new tank and my 20 gallon... I could feel the seem I thought... oh I
need on site help lol.. Shannon




Give it a good cleaning. What you are probably feeling is something on the
glass. Did you measure the thickness of the glass with a ruler at the visible
seams? A quarter inch should be sufficient, with 3/8" being better for this
size tank.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19701 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
On Monday 13 November 2006 20:59, Steve Szabo wrote:
> If that is the case, the glass is too thin to safely hold the water in the
> tank. If you would like to double check subtract the inside measurement of
> the length or width from the comparable outside measurement. Divide the
> difference by two. For instance, if the inside measures 29.5 inches and the
> outside measures 30 inches, you have a difference of 0.5. Divided by 2
> gives you 0.25 which means the glass is 1/4" thick.

Dang you Americans make things hard. I'll have to convert all that to
metric :)

I really don't think the glass needs to be that thick on that size tank... It
looks like it would hold 70 litres tops, about 18g us, and it's only 12"
high. Thickness is usually determined by tank height.

The thickest glass i have on a tank wall here is 6.3mm. It's an old tank so
I'd guess that would be 1/4". It's an odd size and holds about 190l (50g us).
It's 18" high.

My newest 220l (a bit under 60 g us) has 6mm walls and maybe an 8mm base.

I do have a small tank on about 60l (16g us) and it's 15" high and it only has
4mm walls. That's a bit over 1/8" but well under 1/4" - and under 3/16" as
well. In fact if you measure with a ruler it looks roughly about 1/8", but I
used calipers to get a more accurate measure.

The only tanks I've seen in Australia with walls approaching 3/8 inch would be
the bigger marine style tanks. They have 8 and 10 mm walls, but then they
usually 24" tall.

Anyway, I've used my 60l tank here for years with no problems and never found
the glass too thin to hold water... And it's 15" tall...

Even if this tank is only 1/8" (about 3.2 mm) I can't see why it wouldn't be
safe for water since it's only 12" tall.

It would be interesting to get an exact size for the glass tho.

tim



> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@... Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] tank deminsions
>
>
> I must be measuring wrong cause I am getting a measurement of like 1/8 on
> both the new tank and my 20 gallon... I could feel the seem I thought... oh
> I need on site help lol.. Shannon
>
>
>
>
> Give it a good cleaning. What you are probably feeling is something on the
> glass. Did you measure the thickness of the glass with a ruler at the
> visible seams? A quarter inch should be sufficient, with 3/8" being better
> for this size tank.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸. We
> Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸. We
> Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19702 From: Cory Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Thank You Group
I just wanted to thank everyone again who gave me information on the clouding up of my new tank. The
tank cleared itself up over the weekend and is, once again, pretty and clear and Skippy the betta is so very
happy. What a wonderful group! Thanks, Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19703 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Ray,

The drive was pleasantly uneventful, thank you.

I went there to visit family, the fish store was a great bonus. I was
actually on my way to another store when I saw it. I pulled in and
spent almost 2 hours in there then went in again Sunday to buy the
things I had picked out the day before.
They said they were "low" on pants since this was not the buying season.
I can't wait to go in when they have their normal stock. It will be
good timing since that will give my plants time to spread out and do
what it is they are going to do given their tank conditions. I don't
want to add much more until I see what will happen with everything I
already have.

I'm not really expecting the eggs to hatch since most of what I have
read has mentioned that first time angel parents will usually eat them
within a day or so. The eggs are still here this morning and being
cautiously guarded by their parents, so that's a good sign that maybe
they have a good instinct going into this.
I won't know what to do if they do hatch so if you would like to throw
some words of wisdom my way they will be welcomed.

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!



Leslie, Hope you had a pleasant drive; that was a long one. Was that
drive just for getting to "That Fish Place"? If so, I hope it was
worthwhile -- it appears as if it may have been. Glad to see your
angels have laid eggs. Let us know if and when you need help with
them. Ray

P.S.: There's a "That Fish Place" here in the Northeast, in
Pennsylvania which is always well stocked with both plants and fish.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I went to Fort Worth this past weekend and happened upon a fish store
> called "That Fish Place." I fell in love.
> They had tons of plants I have had a hard time finding as well as
fish.
> I drove back home, a 5 hour drive, with loads of plants and 5 fish.
>
> What I am most thrilled about is that I came home to see that my two
> blue(ish) freshwater angels have LAID EGGS! They are on a leaf of a
> large Amazon sword. I am absolutely stoked that they are a pair!!!!
>
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19704 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Tim, I'm inclined to go along with you on the 1/8" glass being heavy
enough for a 20L, as the thickness is based primarily on the height.
A table in Innes' book, "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", recommends double-
thick window glass (4 mm) for tanks up to 14" high; this converts to
just over 1/8". Of course when this was written, the glass in
aquaria was supported by a steel frame which does give it additional
support (but does not give it any support from bursting out in the
center if too thin). I have several 15 gallon all glass tanks (24" x
12" x 13") which have 1/8" glass, but they are 6" shorter than a
20L. However, as the recommendation for 1/8" is for up to 14" high,
I would think that this tank should hold water, even though it seems
to be of less expensive construction.

Since most of my tanks are stainless steel framed, having set up my
fish room in the mid-'60's, I would need a vernier caliper to check
the glass thickness of my 20L's. My glass 20 High's (17" high) have
only 3/16" thick glass, not 1/4" In double-checking recommendations
just now on the Web, I do notice some sites prefer thicker glass for
a 20L, but then they also recommend this same thicker glass for a 15
such as I have. It appears they are building in a safety factor, but
keep in mind most tanks are never filled to the very top of the rim
anyhow; it would be impractical unless you're encouraging your fish
to jump! BTW -- We in the states have that same dang problem when
running into mm's and having to convert to inches (or liters to U.S.
gallons, lol). Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Tim Fairchild <tim@...> wrote:
>
> On Monday 13 November 2006 20:59, Steve Szabo wrote:
> > If that is the case, the glass is too thin to safely hold the
water in the
> > tank. If you would like to double check subtract the inside
measurement of
> > the length or width from the comparable outside measurement.
Divide the
> > difference by two. For instance, if the inside measures 29.5
inches and the
> > outside measures 30 inches, you have a difference of 0.5. Divided
by 2
> > gives you 0.25 which means the glass is 1/4" thick.
>
> Dang you Americans make things hard. I'll have to convert all that
to
> metric :)
>
> I really don't think the glass needs to be that thick on that size
tank... It
> looks like it would hold 70 litres tops, about 18g us, and it's
only 12"
> high. Thickness is usually determined by tank height.
>
> The thickest glass i have on a tank wall here is 6.3mm. It's an old
tank so
> I'd guess that would be 1/4". It's an odd size and holds about 190l
(50g us).
> It's 18" high.
>
> My newest 220l (a bit under 60 g us) has 6mm walls and maybe an 8mm
base.
>
> I do have a small tank on about 60l (16g us) and it's 15" high and
it only has
> 4mm walls. That's a bit over 1/8" but well under 1/4" - and under
3/16" as
> well. In fact if you measure with a ruler it looks roughly about
1/8", but I
> used calipers to get a more accurate measure.
>
> The only tanks I've seen in Australia with walls approaching 3/8
inch would be
> the bigger marine style tanks. They have 8 and 10 mm walls, but
then they
> usually 24" tall.
>
> Anyway, I've used my 60l tank here for years with no problems and
never found
> the glass too thin to hold water... And it's 15" tall...
>
> Even if this tank is only 1/8" (about 3.2 mm) I can't see why it
wouldn't be
> safe for water since it's only 12" tall.
>
> It would be interesting to get an exact size for the glass tho.
>
> tim
>
>
>
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@... Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006
11:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] tank deminsions
> >
> >
> > I must be measuring wrong cause I am getting a measurement of
like 1/8 on
> > both the new tank and my 20 gallon... I could feel the seem I
thought... oh
> > I need on site help lol.. Shannon
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Give it a good cleaning. What you are probably feeling is
something on the
> > glass. Did you measure the thickness of the glass with a ruler at
the
> > visible seams? A quarter inch should be sufficient, with 3/8"
being better
> > for this size tank.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the
> > SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸. We
> > Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the
> > SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸. We
> > Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> --
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> Tim Fairchild
> Atchafalaya Border Collies.
> Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> Email mailto:tim@...
> Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
> Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
> Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
> Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19705 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Leslie, Looks like that fish store was an unexpected but pleasant
find. Sounds like that's a place to definitely check out next time
you're down that way. Nice to see you found some plants there to
your liking.

When it comes to angels, you have read right; they often eat the eggs
within a day or so, and then the behavior may continue for any number
of future spawns -- no telling when or if they will settle down to
raise them. On the other hand, they may just raise them from the
first time on (no guarantees there, though). If you want to be
assured that you will have fry to raise, the best thing is to remove
the eggs to a separate tank of their own, with clean water (no gravel
on bottom), with some Acriflavin or Methylene Blue added to prevent
fungus. Some hobbyists use a gallon jar for hatching since the water
will turn either green or blue (from the fungus remedy) and is more
convenient to have just in the hatching tank rather than in the
rearing tank, where a much larger quantity of water would have to be
changed out (to remove the coloration).

If you're inclined to hatch them yourself, the leaf (I think you said
they used a leaf) will have to be weighted down, maybe by the stem,
and a small airstone placed next to it. The temperature should be as
close to 80o as possible in both the hatching container and the
rearing tank. They will hatch in 3 days (still will egg sacks on
them) and will remain as wigglers. Then, they will start free-
swimming after another 4 days, at which time they will be looking to
eat -- don't feed them before this time.

One day before they start swimming, you should start a hatch of BBS
(baby brine shrimp); this takes about 24 hours at 80o, so should be
ready for feeding as the angel fry start swimming. There are
numerous ways to hatch brine shrimp, from buying a hatcher to using a
gallon jar or inverted 2 liter bottle with the bottom cut out. They
hatch in water using 6 Tablespoons of salt per gallon (using about
1/4 teaspoon of shrimp eggs -- available at your LFS), with an
airstone at the bottom. This should give you enough shrimp for two
to three feedings for the day. To harvest them, remove or shut off
the air stone and let the newly hatched baby brine shrimp settle to
the bottom where they can be drawn off through a muslin or cotton
handkerchief supported over the opening of a gallon jar. A new hatch
of BBS will have to be set up each day to ensure a steady supply of
food for the fry. They can be raised on a good powdered food, but
not as successfully, although its better than nothing if you can't do
the BBS. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> The drive was pleasantly uneventful, thank you.
>
> I went there to visit family, the fish store was a great bonus. I
was
> actually on my way to another store when I saw it. I pulled in and
> spent almost 2 hours in there then went in again Sunday to buy the
> things I had picked out the day before.
> They said they were "low" on pants since this was not the buying
season.
> I can't wait to go in when they have their normal stock. It will be
> good timing since that will give my plants time to spread out and do
> what it is they are going to do given their tank conditions. I
don't
> want to add much more until I see what will happen with everything I
> already have.
>
> I'm not really expecting the eggs to hatch since most of what I have
> read has mentioned that first time angel parents will usually eat
them
> within a day or so. The eggs are still here this morning and being
> cautiously guarded by their parents, so that's a good sign that
maybe
> they have a good instinct going into this.
> I won't know what to do if they do hatch so if you would like to
throw
> some words of wisdom my way they will be welcomed.
>
> Leslie
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:12 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
>
>
>
> Leslie, Hope you had a pleasant drive; that was a long one. Was
that
> drive just for getting to "That Fish Place"? If so, I hope it was
> worthwhile -- it appears as if it may have been. Glad to see your
> angels have laid eggs. Let us know if and when you need help with
> them. Ray
>
> P.S.: There's a "That Fish Place" here in the Northeast, in
> Pennsylvania which is always well stocked with both plants and fish.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I went to Fort Worth this past weekend and happened upon a fish
store
> > called "That Fish Place." I fell in love.
> > They had tons of plants I have had a hard time finding as well as
> fish.
> > I drove back home, a 5 hour drive, with loads of plants and 5
fish.
> >
> > What I am most thrilled about is that I came home to see that my
two
> > blue(ish) freshwater angels have LAID EGGS! They are on a leaf of
a
> > large Amazon sword. I am absolutely stoked that they are a
pair!!!!
> >
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19706 From: Nedra Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Thanks Steve, that was really interesting!
I feel like I appreciate this pleco a little more now -- sounds like
he's perfectly designed for what he does!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I've not had experience with otos in water above pH 7. I have
heard, and
> others here have strengthened that, otos can be kept in water that
is
> quite alkaline. I believe the failure of most people with otos is
that
> they did not have enough algae for them to eat, and they simply
starved.
>
> Best not to screw with water chemistry. If you have a high pH,
keep fish
> that like a high pH. If you pH is low, keep fish that like that
kind of
> water. Also keep in mind that many fish can, and do, live quite
well in
> water whose pH is not even close to what the literature may say.
> However, there are those fish when placed in a pH that is above or
below
> a known range, will simply keel over and die.
>
> Also, keep in mind that body and mouth shape can tell you a lot
about a
> fish. Most fish with a sucker mouth have a low profile, and some
are
> quite streamlined. The sucker mouth helps fish to hang onto
something.
> OK, you say, they can hang onto a vertical surface, or upside
down. The
> first to eat, the second to hide. Maybe so, maybe not. Look at the
body.
> Looks like a fish built for moving. You are now shaking your head
in
> agreement. After all, you have already mentioned the blur he is
when you
> disturb him.
>
> OK, now let us take our brains out of the aquarium. Let's think
about
> what a sucker mouth and a streamlined body can mean in nature.
Think of
> a stream where many of these fish come from. Many streams are
rocky and
> have other obstructions. Hey, the sucker mouth can be used to hold
on to
> those objects. Think of another aspect of many streams--the
relatively
> fast flow of water. Also, think of the objects in the stream that
might
> have algae on them, and where that algae would be located. That
would
> mean that the fish would be found right in the flow of the water.
He has
> the mouth to scrape the algae and hang on to the surface (with
help from
> the fin structure that we have thus far ignored), and a body shape
to
> allow water to flow more easily around it.
>
> Now that you have an idea of the environment the fish may have come
> from, you can start to make some assumptions about the water it is
found
> in. Generally, but not necessarily, stream water is harder and
higher in
> pH than that found in many lakes or larger, slower moving rivers.
They
> can also be cooler.
>
> Enough for now. I'm tired from a long week with not enough sleep,
and
> this TV show is distracting me more than it should.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Nedra
> Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 10:56 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Thanks Steve and everyone else Re: I need a
> recommendation for an algae eater
>
>
> I went out on the web to search about the otocinclus affinis and
the
> two pieces of info (one wikipedia, another from an aquarist site)
both
> alluded to the sensitivity of this little guy and the fact that he
> likes acidic water. My water straight from the tap is 7.8 and I'm
far
> too much of an amateur to try to adjust it... I'm feeling
challenged
> just testing for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates!...grin;)
>
> What are an oto's chances of adapting and thriving in akaline
levels
> up to 7.8?
> BTW, Steve thanks for talking about the Pleco -- he does have a
> beautiful piece of driftwood that he hides in (it's also growing a
> emerald green coat of algae! LOL)
>
> The algae is beautiful really -- just a shame to be scrapping it
off
> the front of the glass when some little fish could be lovin' it!
>
> And as far as "checking the Pleco out" -- this guy's so elusive,
there
> have been days on end when I can't even find him (and this is only
a
> 30 gal. tank). Sometimes when I'm vacuuming and move a rock or
the
> driftwood, I see a blur dart across the tank...so I got quite a
> chuckle out of your suggestion that I make sure his eyes are clear
and
> shiny!
>
> Let me know what you think my chances are with keeping a little
oto at
> 7.8 pH
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19707 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
On Tuesday 14 November 2006 00:45, Raymond Wetzel wrote:
> Tim, I'm inclined to go along with you on the 1/8" glass being heavy
> enough for a 20L, as the thickness is based primarily on the height.
> A table in Innes' book, "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", recommends double-
> thick window glass (4 mm) for tanks up to 14" high; this converts to
> just over 1/8". Of course when this was written, the glass in
> aquaria was supported by a steel frame which does give it additional
> support (but does not give it any support from bursting out in the
> center if too thin). I have several 15 gallon all glass tanks (24" x
> 12" x 13") which have 1/8" glass, but they are 6" shorter than a
> 20L. However, as the recommendation for 1/8" is for up to 14" high,
> I would think that this tank should hold water, even though it seems
> to be of less expensive construction.

My small tank is 24" long as well, tho it's 15" high. I suppose 30" may make a
little difference, it would depend on how it was constructed... The 15 g I
have here is all glass - and has been missing some of the upper support for a
while. The sides were starting to curve out slightly, but it held together.
It always felt like a fragile tank, but it has lasted the 20 years I've had
it, and it wasn't new then :)

In any case, it had the water drained a couple of weeks ago and the contents
were moved to a new 60g tank. It's now contains mice and I don't know if it
will have fish again as we're planning yet another 60g. I'd probably do some
repair work on it before I put water in again...

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19708 From: Nedra Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- also li
Sorry to be so full of questions!

I have a 3" oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on the front
of the abdomen just behind the gill plates -- also listless..what's up?

I noticed this fish being listless about 3 weeks ago and took him back
to the LFS where I purchased him the previous month. He's in a tank
with 3 other goldfish who are all healthy as horses! The guy at the
store said he looked like a beautiful healthy specimen -- he checked a
cup of the water that I had brought in a separate container from the
fish and it proved to be A-OK -- pH 7.8, 0.0 ppm of ammonia, nitrite
and nitrate and also crystal clear.

I thought he might be constipated, because he really wasn't even
interested in food. So fasted him for 2 days (everybody else got to go
on a diet with him!)Then gave him boiled peas. A couple of partial
water changes since that always seems to spark goldfish up. He seemed
to get a little better -- at least he wasn't resting on the bottom and
his fins have never been clamped and he started eating again. 3 days
ago he started spending a lot of time resting on the bottom again and
what I thought was a darkening of pigmentation on his abdomen is
unmistakable now -- definitely black pigment -- looks like a charcoal
stain would look on a white background.
Nobody else looks or acts sick. But he is definitely not feeling
well. It upsets me even more because the "experts" at the store gave
him a "clean bill of health" a couple of weeks ago when we might have
had a better chance of saving him.

Oh yeah, I don't feed floating food or anything with grains in it
(because of the constipation issue with orandas) -- I feed a variety
of the frozen omnivore foods as well as frozen brine, bloodworm and
tubifex occasionally.

The water still tests out perfect -- but this guy is dying a slow
death. What's the black pigment change about? Should I isolate him
and if so, what should I treat him for while he's in isolation?

Sorry this is so long.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19709 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: aglaonema
I purchased this plant, on a whim which I should not have done, and now
I can not find much about it.
I searched group discussions and found that it might be poisoness...?!
And I found on the net that it's more of a houseplant.

If it's poisonous, I don't want it. If it's a house plant, why was it
sold as an aquatic plant? The lady that was helping was super (or
seemed so) knowledgeable. I was informed on another plant I was looking
at that it was a land thriving plant and that when left submerged it
would die off within 4-6 months. No mention of this was ever given when
I was asking about the aglaonema (this $15 aglaonema, maybe that's why
she didn't mention it.)

Any information is greatly appreciated.

~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19710 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
On Tuesday 14 November 2006 00:45, Raymond Wetzel wrote:
> BTW -- We in the states have that same dang problem when
> running into mm's and having to convert to inches (or liters to U.S.
> gallons, lol). Ray

It's an issue on all the lists I'm on, but I think it's worse on aquarium
lists. There are always volume conversions and trying to work out how many
teaspoons per gallon make how many grams per liter :)

And that's the US 3.8 liter gallon, which is different to the old Australian
4.5 liter gallon, of course... :)

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19711 From: Nedra Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
If no one has a better idea can I just do what Steve mentioned in
the "salt" post:
If no one

Steve posted:

"Again, there is no need to add salts to your water unless there is
an
indication to do so. As a treatment it is often the first course one
should take for disease or parasites, along with a water change and
an
increase in temperature. Generally a tablespoon (3 teaspoons) of
salts
per 5 gallons is sufficient. Some treatments may require more. I have
found that the use of a good quality marine salt seems to produce the
best results, but have used kosher salt and even table salt when I
have
had to add salt to the water in a freshwater environment."


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@...>
wrote:
>
> Sorry to be so full of questions!
>
> I have a 3" oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on the
front
> of the abdomen just behind the gill plates -- also
listless..what's up?
>
> I noticed this fish being listless about 3 weeks ago and took him
back
> to the LFS where I purchased him the previous month. He's in a
tank
> with 3 other goldfish who are all healthy as horses! The guy at
the
> store said he looked like a beautiful healthy specimen -- he
checked a
> cup of the water that I had brought in a separate container from
the
> fish and it proved to be A-OK -- pH 7.8, 0.0 ppm of ammonia,
nitrite
> and nitrate and also crystal clear.
>
> I thought he might be constipated, because he really wasn't even
> interested in food. So fasted him for 2 days (everybody else got
to go
> on a diet with him!)Then gave him boiled peas. A couple of
partial
> water changes since that always seems to spark goldfish up. He
seemed
> to get a little better -- at least he wasn't resting on the bottom
and
> his fins have never been clamped and he started eating again. 3
days
> ago he started spending a lot of time resting on the bottom again
and
> what I thought was a darkening of pigmentation on his abdomen is
> unmistakable now -- definitely black pigment -- looks like a
charcoal
> stain would look on a white background.
> Nobody else looks or acts sick. But he is definitely not feeling
> well. It upsets me even more because the "experts" at the store
gave
> him a "clean bill of health" a couple of weeks ago when we might
have
> had a better chance of saving him.
>
> Oh yeah, I don't feed floating food or anything with grains in it
> (because of the constipation issue with orandas) -- I feed a
variety
> of the frozen omnivore foods as well as frozen brine, bloodworm
and
> tubifex occasionally.
>
> The water still tests out perfect -- but this guy is dying a slow
> death. What's the black pigment change about? Should I isolate
him
> and if so, what should I treat him for while he's in isolation?
>
> Sorry this is so long.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19712 From: Nedra Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Congrats on the "almost" baby angels! How long before they hatch?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Leslie, Hope you had a pleasant drive; that was a long one. Was
that
> drive just for getting to "That Fish Place"? If so, I hope it was
> worthwhile -- it appears as if it may have been. Glad to see your
> angels have laid eggs. Let us know if and when you need help with
> them. Ray
>
> P.S.: There's a "That Fish Place" here in the Northeast, in
> Pennsylvania which is always well stocked with both plants and
fish.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I went to Fort Worth this past weekend and happened upon a fish
store
> > called "That Fish Place." I fell in love.
> > They had tons of plants I have had a hard time finding as well
as
> fish.
> > I drove back home, a 5 hour drive, with loads of plants and 5
fish.
> >
> > What I am most thrilled about is that I came home to see that my
two
> > blue(ish) freshwater angels have LAID EGGS! They are on a leaf
of a
> > large Amazon sword. I am absolutely stoked that they are a
pair!!!!
> >
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19713 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Tetracycline & Jungle Fungus Clear
Can you mix tetracycline and Jungles Fungus Clear? (Jungles contains
nitrofuazone, furazolidone, potassium dichromate.)

The tetracycline is weakened as I just did a 50% water change on the
hospital tank. But the water is still very red even after the water
change and the addition of carbon last night.

Thanks,
~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19714 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Any chance the black spots are anchor worms.

Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote: If no one has a better idea can I just do what Steve mentioned in
the "salt" post:
If no one

Steve posted:

"Again, there is no need to add salts to your water unless there is
an
indication to do so. As a treatment it is often the first course one
should take for disease or parasites, along with a water change and
an
increase in temperature. Generally a tablespoon (3 teaspoons) of
salts
per 5 gallons is sufficient. Some treatments may require more. I have
found that the use of a good quality marine salt seems to produce the
best results, but have used kosher salt and even table salt when I
have
had to add salt to the water in a freshwater environment."

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@...>
wrote:
>
> Sorry to be so full of questions!
>
> I have a 3" oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on the
front
> of the abdomen just behind the gill plates -- also
listless..what's up?
>
> I noticed this fish being listless about 3 weeks ago and took him
back
> to the LFS where I purchased him the previous month. He's in a
tank
> with 3 other goldfish who are all healthy as horses! The guy at
the
> store said he looked like a beautiful healthy specimen -- he
checked a
> cup of the water that I had brought in a separate container from
the
> fish and it proved to be A-OK -- pH 7.8, 0.0 ppm of ammonia,
nitrite
> and nitrate and also crystal clear.
>
> I thought he might be constipated, because he really wasn't even
> interested in food. So fasted him for 2 days (everybody else got
to go
> on a diet with him!)Then gave him boiled peas. A couple of
partial
> water changes since that always seems to spark goldfish up. He
seemed
> to get a little better -- at least he wasn't resting on the bottom
and
> his fins have never been clamped and he started eating again. 3
days
> ago he started spending a lot of time resting on the bottom again
and
> what I thought was a darkening of pigmentation on his abdomen is
> unmistakable now -- definitely black pigment -- looks like a
charcoal
> stain would look on a white background.
> Nobody else looks or acts sick. But he is definitely not feeling
> well. It upsets me even more because the "experts" at the store
gave
> him a "clean bill of health" a couple of weeks ago when we might
have
> had a better chance of saving him.
>
> Oh yeah, I don't feed floating food or anything with grains in it
> (because of the constipation issue with orandas) -- I feed a
variety
> of the frozen omnivore foods as well as frozen brine, bloodworm
and
> tubifex occasionally.
>
> The water still tests out perfect -- but this guy is dying a slow
> death. What's the black pigment change about? Should I isolate
him
> and if so, what should I treat him for while he's in isolation?
>
> Sorry this is so long.
>






---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19715 From: Loki Wolf Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: java wall, goldie salt, and a general hello
Here's a link to building a java moss wall:

http://www.killies.com/Mosswall.htm



Re: salt and goldies, and salt and freshwater in general, Here's what I
generally go by...

goldies like salt. they are more brackish than freshwater, when it comes
right down to it. that doesn't mean they like a LOT of salt, just that
they like more salt than many freshwater tanks usually have.

That being said, I do put salt in freshwater tanks ONCE and ONLY ONCE...
when I am cycling a NEW TANK, during the nitrite spike. I add perhaps a
tablespoon per 10 gallons. The salt helps to minimize stress by adding
electrolytes that help the fish breathe, since nitrites inhibit the fish
from taking oxygen from the water as efficiently.

Ok, I lied... I also put salt in quarantine and hospital tanks. Salt has
been shown in various studies to help prevent bacteria and parasites
from wanting to stick to the slime coat, and again, in hospital tanks,
we add meds or chemicals that can stress the fishies, so between that,
and helping a stressed fishie breathe, it's good for hospital tanks.

But adding salt just to add it? Nope.

Adding salt on a regular basis? Not unless it's a true brackish tank.

Even when I had goldies, I'd add it at the tank's startup, and then just
a handful here and there after water changes.

Hope this helps.

And thanks for bringing me into your group!

~grayce
chronic bettaholic with multiple tank syndrome (MTS)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19716 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Tetracycline & Jungle Fungus Clear
Generally speaking, unless its known that specific medications can be
mixed, it is not wise to mix medications. I would not recommend mixing
Tetracycline with any of the Furazone family. If you want to change
treatment to Jungle's Fungus Cure, I'd do another water change and
change out the carbon again to get rid of the remaining tetracycline.
Antibiotics such as Tetracycline, Aureomycin, Terramycin and Penacillin
are derived from live organisms; bacteria or fungus (Streptomyces, as
in the case of Tetracycline), whereas Nitrofurazone, etc., are chemical
antibiotics. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Can you mix tetracycline and Jungles Fungus Clear? (Jungles contains
> nitrofuazone, furazolidone, potassium dichromate.)
>
> The tetracycline is weakened as I just did a 50% water change on the
> hospital tank. But the water is still very red even after the water
> change and the addition of carbon last night.
>
> Thanks,
> ~Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19717 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Leslie, The plant, Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen) is widely used as
an aquatic plant and is said to do well and last long submerged even
though it is a houseplant. There are a number of species (and
hybrids) of these plants, some very attractive, which belong to the
Arum group. Its also known as the "Cast Iron" plant for reasons
which are beyond me, but I would think this would be those not used
for aqua-culture.

It is poisonous, as you suspected, but I don't believe the toxins are
released into the water as it would not be continued to be sold for
this purpose if it killed fish. More likely, if one breaks the
leaves and/or tries to eat or chew it, it may make that person ill,
or worse.

Karen Randall, a noted and well respected aquatic plant authority
well known in the aquarium circle wrote on this plant in "Aquatic
Horticulture" (February '99). I believe it can be found on Aquarium
Frontier's On-Line. Anyway, she describes it as non-aquatic and
further states that it does not last very long in water. I would go
with Karen's recommendation. It can be used in a similar manner in
aquarium applications similar to that of Ivy, in that you let the
roots hang down into the water which will then take up any excess
ammonia, etc.

This plant, and similar ones erroneously used in the aquarium trade,
remind me of the popular varigated Temple Plant which was suddenly
burst onto the aquarium market back in the late 1960's. While
appearing very attractive, it was not meant to be submersed nor did
it do well for any length of time. It was probably just
someone's "brainstorm" to try to make a buck while the craze lasted.
I don't believe its still available today -- at least I haven't seen
it. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I purchased this plant, on a whim which I should not have done, and
now
> I can not find much about it.
> I searched group discussions and found that it might be
poisoness...?!
> And I found on the net that it's more of a houseplant.
>
> If it's poisonous, I don't want it. If it's a house plant, why was
it
> sold as an aquatic plant? The lady that was helping was super (or
> seemed so) knowledgeable. I was informed on another plant I was
looking
> at that it was a land thriving plant and that when left submerged it
> would die off within 4-6 months. No mention of this was ever given
when
> I was asking about the aglaonema (this $15 aglaonema, maybe that's
why
> she didn't mention it.)
>
> Any information is greatly appreciated.
>
> ~Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19718 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Add one (1) Tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons(?), SURE!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@...>
wrote:
>
> If no one has a better idea can I just do what Steve mentioned in
> the "salt" post:
> If no one
>
> Steve posted:
>
> "Again, there is no need to add salts to your water unless there is
> an
> indication to do so. As a treatment it is often the first course one
> should take for disease or parasites, along with a water change and
> an
> increase in temperature. Generally a tablespoon (3 teaspoons) of
> salts
> per 5 gallons is sufficient. Some treatments may require more. I
have
> found that the use of a good quality marine salt seems to produce
the
> best results, but have used kosher salt and even table salt when I
> have
> had to add salt to the water in a freshwater environment."
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Sorry to be so full of questions!
> >
> > I have a 3" oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on the
> front
> > of the abdomen just behind the gill plates -- also
> listless..what's up?
> >
> > I noticed this fish being listless about 3 weeks ago and took him
> back
> > to the LFS where I purchased him the previous month. He's in a
> tank
> > with 3 other goldfish who are all healthy as horses! The guy at
> the
> > store said he looked like a beautiful healthy specimen -- he
> checked a
> > cup of the water that I had brought in a separate container from
> the
> > fish and it proved to be A-OK -- pH 7.8, 0.0 ppm of ammonia,
> nitrite
> > and nitrate and also crystal clear.
> >
> > I thought he might be constipated, because he really wasn't even
> > interested in food. So fasted him for 2 days (everybody else got
> to go
> > on a diet with him!)Then gave him boiled peas. A couple of
> partial
> > water changes since that always seems to spark goldfish up. He
> seemed
> > to get a little better -- at least he wasn't resting on the
bottom
> and
> > his fins have never been clamped and he started eating again. 3
> days
> > ago he started spending a lot of time resting on the bottom again
> and
> > what I thought was a darkening of pigmentation on his abdomen is
> > unmistakable now -- definitely black pigment -- looks like a
> charcoal
> > stain would look on a white background.
> > Nobody else looks or acts sick. But he is definitely not feeling
> > well. It upsets me even more because the "experts" at the store
> gave
> > him a "clean bill of health" a couple of weeks ago when we might
> have
> > had a better chance of saving him.
> >
> > Oh yeah, I don't feed floating food or anything with grains in it
> > (because of the constipation issue with orandas) -- I feed a
> variety
> > of the frozen omnivore foods as well as frozen brine, bloodworm
> and
> > tubifex occasionally.
> >
> > The water still tests out perfect -- but this guy is dying a slow
> > death. What's the black pigment change about? Should I isolate
> him
> > and if so, what should I treat him for while he's in isolation?
> >
> > Sorry this is so long.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19719 From: Nedra Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
I don't think so -- I believe anchor worms are like little threads
dangling from the fish and clearly visible to the naked eye. This
is a change in pigmentation --- subcutenous -- kinda like a smudge
beneath the surface. The color used to be white there. It came on
rather suddenly -- I've read about black goldfish turning orange but
it's a gradual process. I really appreciate your response, but i
don't believe it's anchor worms -- not mature one's anyway -- I
don't know if they are beneath the surface before they dangle??

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...>
wrote:
>
> Any chance the black spots are anchor worms.
>
> Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote: If no one has a
better idea can I just do what Steve mentioned in
> the "salt" post:
> If no one
>
> Steve posted:
>
> "Again, there is no need to add salts to your water unless there
is
> an
> indication to do so. As a treatment it is often the first course
one
> should take for disease or parasites, along with a water change
and
> an
> increase in temperature. Generally a tablespoon (3 teaspoons) of
> salts
> per 5 gallons is sufficient. Some treatments may require more. I
have
> found that the use of a good quality marine salt seems to produce
the
> best results, but have used kosher salt and even table salt when I
> have
> had to add salt to the water in a freshwater environment."
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Sorry to be so full of questions!
> >
> > I have a 3" oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on the
> front
> > of the abdomen just behind the gill plates -- also
> listless..what's up?
> >
> > I noticed this fish being listless about 3 weeks ago and took
him
> back
> > to the LFS where I purchased him the previous month. He's in a
> tank
> > with 3 other goldfish who are all healthy as horses! The guy at
> the
> > store said he looked like a beautiful healthy specimen -- he
> checked a
> > cup of the water that I had brought in a separate container from
> the
> > fish and it proved to be A-OK -- pH 7.8, 0.0 ppm of ammonia,
> nitrite
> > and nitrate and also crystal clear.
> >
> > I thought he might be constipated, because he really wasn't even
> > interested in food. So fasted him for 2 days (everybody else got
> to go
> > on a diet with him!)Then gave him boiled peas. A couple of
> partial
> > water changes since that always seems to spark goldfish up. He
> seemed
> > to get a little better -- at least he wasn't resting on the
bottom
> and
> > his fins have never been clamped and he started eating again. 3
> days
> > ago he started spending a lot of time resting on the bottom
again
> and
> > what I thought was a darkening of pigmentation on his abdomen is
> > unmistakable now -- definitely black pigment -- looks like a
> charcoal
> > stain would look on a white background.
> > Nobody else looks or acts sick. But he is definitely not feeling
> > well. It upsets me even more because the "experts" at the store
> gave
> > him a "clean bill of health" a couple of weeks ago when we might
> have
> > had a better chance of saving him.
> >
> > Oh yeah, I don't feed floating food or anything with grains in
it
> > (because of the constipation issue with orandas) -- I feed a
> variety
> > of the frozen omnivore foods as well as frozen brine, bloodworm
> and
> > tubifex occasionally.
> >
> > The water still tests out perfect -- but this guy is dying a
slow
> > death. What's the black pigment change about? Should I isolate
> him
> > and if so, what should I treat him for while he's in isolation?
> >
> > Sorry this is so long.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19720 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
yes the females can attach before they start to dangle. but the other thing I would check to see maybe fish lice or louce but they move. But yes if your not sure what it is and worried I would try salt

Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote: I don't think so -- I believe anchor worms are like little threads
dangling from the fish and clearly visible to the naked eye. This
is a change in pigmentation --- subcutenous -- kinda like a smudge
beneath the surface. The color used to be white there. It came on
rather suddenly -- I've read about black goldfish turning orange but
it's a gradual process. I really appreciate your response, but i
don't believe it's anchor worms -- not mature one's anyway -- I
don't know if they are beneath the surface before they dangle??

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...>
wrote:
>
> Any chance the black spots are anchor worms.
>
> Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote: If no one has a
better idea can I just do what Steve mentioned in
> the "salt" post:
> If no one
>
> Steve posted:
>
> "Again, there is no need to add salts to your water unless there
is
> an
> indication to do so. As a treatment it is often the first course
one
> should take for disease or parasites, along with a water change
and
> an
> increase in temperature. Generally a tablespoon (3 teaspoons) of
> salts
> per 5 gallons is sufficient. Some treatments may require more. I
have
> found that the use of a good quality marine salt seems to produce
the
> best results, but have used kosher salt and even table salt when I
> have
> had to add salt to the water in a freshwater environment."
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Sorry to be so full of questions!
> >
> > I have a 3" oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on the
> front
> > of the abdomen just behind the gill plates -- also
> listless..what's up?
> >
> > I noticed this fish being listless about 3 weeks ago and took
him
> back
> > to the LFS where I purchased him the previous month. He's in a
> tank
> > with 3 other goldfish who are all healthy as horses! The guy at
> the
> > store said he looked like a beautiful healthy specimen -- he
> checked a
> > cup of the water that I had brought in a separate container from
> the
> > fish and it proved to be A-OK -- pH 7.8, 0.0 ppm of ammonia,
> nitrite
> > and nitrate and also crystal clear.
> >
> > I thought he might be constipated, because he really wasn't even
> > interested in food. So fasted him for 2 days (everybody else got
> to go
> > on a diet with him!)Then gave him boiled peas. A couple of
> partial
> > water changes since that always seems to spark goldfish up. He
> seemed
> > to get a little better -- at least he wasn't resting on the
bottom
> and
> > his fins have never been clamped and he started eating again. 3
> days
> > ago he started spending a lot of time resting on the bottom
again
> and
> > what I thought was a darkening of pigmentation on his abdomen is
> > unmistakable now -- definitely black pigment -- looks like a
> charcoal
> > stain would look on a white background.
> > Nobody else looks or acts sick. But he is definitely not feeling
> > well. It upsets me even more because the "experts" at the store
> gave
> > him a "clean bill of health" a couple of weeks ago when we might
> have
> > had a better chance of saving him.
> >
> > Oh yeah, I don't feed floating food or anything with grains in
it
> > (because of the constipation issue with orandas) -- I feed a
> variety
> > of the frozen omnivore foods as well as frozen brine, bloodworm
> and
> > tubifex occasionally.
> >
> > The water still tests out perfect -- but this guy is dying a
slow
> > death. What's the black pigment change about? Should I isolate
> him
> > and if so, what should I treat him for while he's in isolation?
> >
> > Sorry this is so long.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19721 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Goldfish do change their colors as they get older. Orandas are a lazier fish then goldfish are. Whats your temperature at. They like it a little bit warmer than the goldfish. Your water chemistry seems good. Well the pH might be a little high but its not going to show listlyness in a fish. Like I said though they are lazy fish.


----- Original Message ----
From: Nedra <terrierlover2002@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:51:29 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- also listless..what'

Sorry to be so full of questions!

I have a 3" oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on the front
of the abdomen just behind the gill plates -- also listless..what' s up?

I noticed this fish being listless about 3 weeks ago and took him back
to the LFS where I purchased him the previous month. He's in a tank
with 3 other goldfish who are all healthy as horses! The guy at the
store said he looked like a beautiful healthy specimen -- he checked a
cup of the water that I had brought in a separate container from the
fish and it proved to be A-OK -- pH 7.8, 0.0 ppm of ammonia, nitrite
and nitrate and also crystal clear.

I thought he might be constipated, because he really wasn't even
interested in food. So fasted him for 2 days (everybody else got to go
on a diet with him!)Then gave him boiled peas. A couple of partial
water changes since that always seems to spark goldfish up. He seemed
to get a little better -- at least he wasn't resting on the bottom and
his fins have never been clamped and he started eating again. 3 days
ago he started spending a lot of time resting on the bottom again and
what I thought was a darkening of pigmentation on his abdomen is
unmistakable now -- definitely black pigment -- looks like a charcoal
stain would look on a white background.
Nobody else looks or acts sick. But he is definitely not feeling
well. It upsets me even more because the "experts" at the store gave
him a "clean bill of health" a couple of weeks ago when we might have
had a better chance of saving him.

Oh yeah, I don't feed floating food or anything with grains in it
(because of the constipation issue with orandas) -- I feed a variety
of the frozen omnivore foods as well as frozen brine, bloodworm and
tubifex occasionally.

The water still tests out perfect -- but this guy is dying a slow
death. What's the black pigment change about? Should I isolate him
and if so, what should I treat him for while he's in isolation?

Sorry this is so long.






____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19722 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: tank deminsions
Then you need to keep this site in mind: http://www.onlineconversion.com/

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Fairchild
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: tank deminsions

On Tuesday 14 November 2006 00:45, Raymond Wetzel wrote:
> BTW -- We in the states have that same dang problem when
> running into mm's and having to convert to inches (or liters to U.S.
> gallons, lol). Ray

It's an issue on all the lists I'm on, but I think it's worse on aquarium
lists. There are always volume conversions and trying to work out how many
teaspoons per gallon make how many grams per liter :)

And that's the US 3.8 liter gallon, which is different to the old Australian
4.5 liter gallon, of course... :)

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19723 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
Your water test should not have had a 0 reading on nitrates (unless you
have live plants, then it's possible.)
How long has the tank been up going? If it's just been within the three
weeks that you have had your fish, it might not be cycled. The black
marks and listlessness could be a sign of stress if the water chemistry
has changed.
During the cycle, your ammonia, nitrites and nitrates will rise. The
ammonia and nitrites will stress the fish and likely kill it if you
don't do a water change.
I'd get your water tested again ASAP. A day can make a big difference
in an un-cycled tank.

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 1:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation
on abdomen -- also listless..what'



Goldfish do change their colors as they get older. Orandas are a lazier
fish then goldfish are. Whats your temperature at. They like it a little
bit warmer than the goldfish. Your water chemistry seems good. Well the
pH might be a little high but its not going to show listlyness in a
fish. Like I said though they are lazy fish.

----- Original Message ----
From: Nedra <terrierlover2002@ <mailto:terrierlover2002%40yahoo.com>
yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:51:29 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on
abdomen -- also listless..what'

Sorry to be so full of questions!

I have a 3" oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on the front
of the abdomen just behind the gill plates -- also listless..what' s up?

I noticed this fish being listless about 3 weeks ago and took him back
to the LFS where I purchased him the previous month. He's in a tank
with 3 other goldfish who are all healthy as horses! The guy at the
store said he looked like a beautiful healthy specimen -- he checked a
cup of the water that I had brought in a separate container from the
fish and it proved to be A-OK -- pH 7.8, 0.0 ppm of ammonia, nitrite
and nitrate and also crystal clear.

I thought he might be constipated, because he really wasn't even
interested in food. So fasted him for 2 days (everybody else got to go
on a diet with him!)Then gave him boiled peas. A couple of partial
water changes since that always seems to spark goldfish up. He seemed
to get a little better -- at least he wasn't resting on the bottom and
his fins have never been clamped and he started eating again. 3 days
ago he started spending a lot of time resting on the bottom again and
what I thought was a darkening of pigmentation on his abdomen is
unmistakable now -- definitely black pigment -- looks like a charcoal
stain would look on a white background.
Nobody else looks or acts sick. But he is definitely not feeling
well. It upsets me even more because the "experts" at the store gave
him a "clean bill of health" a couple of weeks ago when we might have
had a better chance of saving him.

Oh yeah, I don't feed floating food or anything with grains in it
(because of the constipation issue with orandas) -- I feed a variety
of the frozen omnivore foods as well as frozen brine, bloodworm and
tubifex occasionally.

The water still tests out perfect -- but this guy is dying a slow
death. What's the black pigment change about? Should I isolate him
and if so, what should I treat him for while he's in isolation?

Sorry this is so long.

__________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs.
http://music. <http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited> yahoo.com/unlimited

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19724 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Ray,
That's funny that you mention the Temple plant. I was on LiveAquaria
looking up Hygrophila and the Temple came up as a form of Hygrophila.
It is sold there, at liveaquaria.com, and is sold under the name Temple.
Is that the same as you mentioned? Is it also the Hygrophila? It
sounds much like the hygrophila when described in growth rates and
height. I also understand that it is no longer allowed to be sold in
Florida as it's invasive (a good thing in my opinion.) Many of these
types of plants on liveaquaria have a side note that says they can not
ship these to Florida but it does not state the reason.

I wonder if I should take the Aglaonema out. I have some kissing
gouramis that take the occasional nibble out of a plant here and there
and I would hate to lose them to this.

Also, thanks for the note on mixing the medications. The rainbows and
serpae tetras are much better but they still have a hint of the white on
their mouths. Plus the 2 Australian rainbows that I brought home from
Fort Worth yesterday now have the white lip. I will be adding them to
the already 12 fish that are in the 20 gallon hospital tank. I did a
approx.. 40-45% water change this morning & added carbon but it's still
pinkish. I will wait until tomorrow, do another small water change and
add the other 2 fish then start the fungus clear. Hopefully that will
clear this up. I guess rainbows are prone to the mouth fungus? Each
one I have purchased has either had it at the buying time or developed
it within a day of purchase. Very irritating.

I have planted my 130 gallon despite my blood parrots. I have made a
cave consisting of fabulously shaped driftwood pieces and I've put 2
large rocks within the cave for the female to lay her eggs on. I am
hoping this will encourage them to make this caved corner their domain.
They can dig as much as they like here and not harm anything. I've
planted the rest of the tank beginning about 1.5 feet from their area.
The driftwood that makes up their cave is now holding java moss, water
sprite and lace java fern so it looks fairly balanced. None of it can
be dug up, to the best of my knowledge anyway. =) (They always seem to
surprise me though.)

The angel eggs are still here. They are picking off the eggs that have
turned white and possibly a few more. Perhaps I will be able to report
"wigglers" before long. =)

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 12:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: aglaonema



Leslie, The plant, Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen) is widely used as
an aquatic plant and is said to do well and last long submerged even
though it is a houseplant. There are a number of species (and
hybrids) of these plants, some very attractive, which belong to the
Arum group. Its also known as the "Cast Iron" plant for reasons
which are beyond me, but I would think this would be those not used
for aqua-culture.

It is poisonous, as you suspected, but I don't believe the toxins are
released into the water as it would not be continued to be sold for
this purpose if it killed fish. More likely, if one breaks the
leaves and/or tries to eat or chew it, it may make that person ill,
or worse.

Karen Randall, a noted and well respected aquatic plant authority
well known in the aquarium circle wrote on this plant in "Aquatic
Horticulture" (February '99). I believe it can be found on Aquarium
Frontier's On-Line. Anyway, she describes it as non-aquatic and
further states that it does not last very long in water. I would go
with Karen's recommendation. It can be used in a similar manner in
aquarium applications similar to that of Ivy, in that you let the
roots hang down into the water which will then take up any excess
ammonia, etc.

This plant, and similar ones erroneously used in the aquarium trade,
remind me of the popular varigated Temple Plant which was suddenly
burst onto the aquarium market back in the late 1960's. While
appearing very attractive, it was not meant to be submersed nor did
it do well for any length of time. It was probably just
someone's "brainstorm" to try to make a buck while the craze lasted.
I don't believe its still available today -- at least I haven't seen
it. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I purchased this plant, on a whim which I should not have done, and
now
> I can not find much about it.
> I searched group discussions and found that it might be
poisoness...?!
> And I found on the net that it's more of a houseplant.
>
> If it's poisonous, I don't want it. If it's a house plant, why was
it
> sold as an aquatic plant? The lady that was helping was super (or
> seemed so) knowledgeable. I was informed on another plant I was
looking
> at that it was a land thriving plant and that when left submerged it
> would die off within 4-6 months. No mention of this was ever given
when
> I was asking about the aglaonema (this $15 aglaonema, maybe that's
why
> she didn't mention it.)
>
> Any information is greatly appreciated.
>
> ~Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19725 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
After reading your other posts, which I should have done before I
responded in the first place, I see your tank has been up and going a
while. At least long enough for the other fish to be OK. I would still
test the water again though. Do you have a test kit? They are so great
to have around. Your nitrates really should not be at 0 and that makes
me wonder if perhaps you've lost your cycle for some reason. ?

I have blood parrots, nothing like a gold fish other than the color, but
they too spot black when they are stressed. I actually like it because
it shows me when something is amiss. A water change has always fixed
this but you said you did that already.

Is it possibly internal parasites? Listlessness is a big symptom of
this.
As glorious as it sounds, check for any white spots or white stringy
stuff in his poop. Any white at all means internal parasites and can be
treated with medicated food (if he will eat it.)

Sorry for my previous premature post. =)

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 2:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation
on abdomen -- also listless..what'



Your water test should not have had a 0 reading on nitrates (unless you
have live plants, then it's possible.)
How long has the tank been up going? If it's just been within the three
weeks that you have had your fish, it might not be cycled. The black
marks and listlessness could be a sign of stress if the water chemistry
has changed.
During the cycle, your ammonia, nitrites and nitrates will rise. The
ammonia and nitrites will stress the fish and likely kill it if you
don't do a water change.
I'd get your water tested again ASAP. A day can make a big difference
in an un-cycled tank.

~Leslie

<http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 1:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation
on abdomen -- also listless..what'

Goldfish do change their colors as they get older. Orandas are a lazier
fish then goldfish are. Whats your temperature at. They like it a little
bit warmer than the goldfish. Your water chemistry seems good. Well the
pH might be a little high but its not going to show listlyness in a
fish. Like I said though they are lazy fish.

----- Original Message ----
From: Nedra <terrierlover2002@ <mailto:terrierlover2002%40yahoo.com>
yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:51:29 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on
abdomen -- also listless..what'

Sorry to be so full of questions!

I have a 3" oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on the front
of the abdomen just behind the gill plates -- also listless..what' s up?

I noticed this fish being listless about 3 weeks ago and took him back
to the LFS where I purchased him the previous month. He's in a tank
with 3 other goldfish who are all healthy as horses! The guy at the
store said he looked like a beautiful healthy specimen -- he checked a
cup of the water that I had brought in a separate container from the
fish and it proved to be A-OK -- pH 7.8, 0.0 ppm of ammonia, nitrite
and nitrate and also crystal clear.

I thought he might be constipated, because he really wasn't even
interested in food. So fasted him for 2 days (everybody else got to go
on a diet with him!)Then gave him boiled peas. A couple of partial
water changes since that always seems to spark goldfish up. He seemed
to get a little better -- at least he wasn't resting on the bottom and
his fins have never been clamped and he started eating again. 3 days
ago he started spending a lot of time resting on the bottom again and
what I thought was a darkening of pigmentation on his abdomen is
unmistakable now -- definitely black pigment -- looks like a charcoal
stain would look on a white background.
Nobody else looks or acts sick. But he is definitely not feeling
well. It upsets me even more because the "experts" at the store gave
him a "clean bill of health" a couple of weeks ago when we might have
had a better chance of saving him.

Oh yeah, I don't feed floating food or anything with grains in it
(because of the constipation issue with orandas) -- I feed a variety
of the frozen omnivore foods as well as frozen brine, bloodworm and
tubifex occasionally.

The water still tests out perfect -- but this guy is dying a slow
death. What's the black pigment change about? Should I isolate him
and if so, what should I treat him for while he's in isolation?

Sorry this is so long.

__________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs.
http://music. <http://music. <http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited>
yahoo.com/unlimited> yahoo.com/unlimited

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19726 From: hank voss Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Leslie, The plant, Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen) is widely used
as
> an aquatic plant and is said to do well and last long submerged
even
> though it is a houseplant. There are a number of species (and
> hybrids) of these plants, some very attractive, which belong to
the
> Arum group. Its also known as the "Cast Iron" plant for reasons
> which are beyond me, but I would think this would be those not
used
> for aqua-culture.
> =====================

Ray:
Its called "Cast Iron" because as a pot plant it will grow were
most other plants will die. They sell these because they look good
and last quite a while submerged.Harmless to the fish though.
Hank


> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19727 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Hank,

Should it be left in the pot then?

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 3:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: aglaonema



--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Leslie, The plant, Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen) is widely used
as
> an aquatic plant and is said to do well and last long submerged
even
> though it is a houseplant. There are a number of species (and
> hybrids) of these plants, some very attractive, which belong to
the
> Arum group. Its also known as the "Cast Iron" plant for reasons
> which are beyond me, but I would think this would be those not
used
> for aqua-culture.
> =====================

Ray:
Its called "Cast Iron" because as a pot plant it will grow were
most other plants will die. They sell these because they look good
and last quite a while submerged.Harmless to the fish though.
Hank

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19728 From: hank voss Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Hank,
>
> Should it be left in the pot then?
>
> Leslie
> ===================
Leslie:
Did it come in one of the little 2-3 in. plastic pots?If so you
can either leave in or take it out it does not make to much difference
since you wont have this plant for a long time.For $15 you can get the
same plant ina nursury that would fill a 10 gal tank.
You could also plant it in a clay pot and put it your house as a
house plant.
Regards Hank

>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19729 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Harry,
I took it out of the pot and it turns out that this full, lush looking
bushy plant was actually 5 smaller plants in one pot. Not such a bad
deal w/ that in mind I guess (trying to convince myself here.) They
look a lot like the anubius so I used them in the foreground as such.
We shall see.
I'm not much of a houseplant person so I will keep them submerged and
see what shall come.
Thanks a bunch,
Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 4:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: aglaonema



--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Hank,
>
> Should it be left in the pot then?
>
> Leslie
> ===================
Leslie:
Did it come in one of the little 2-3 in. plastic pots?If so you
can either leave in or take it out it does not make to much difference
since you wont have this plant for a long time.For $15 you can get the
same plant ina nursury that would fill a 10 gal tank.
You could also plant it in a clay pot and put it your house as a
house plant.
Regards Hank

>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19730 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
It would be a great deal more helpful if I knew what species of aglaonema it is... There are about 20 species... http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?what=plant&cur_lang=2&id=93 <~ That is the one most commonly found in aquariums... It is called "Silver Queen" and it WILL live in water... It's a water species

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums



----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@...>
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 9:51:33 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] aglaonema

I purchased this plant, on a whim which I should not have done, and now
I can not find much about it.
I searched group discussions and found that it might be poisoness... ?!
And I found on the net that it's more of a houseplant.

If it's poisonous, I don't want it. If it's a house plant, why was it
sold as an aquatic plant? The lady that was helping was super (or
seemed so) knowledgeable. I was informed on another plant I was looking
at that it was a land thriving plant and that when left submerged it
would die off within 4-6 months. No mention of this was ever given when
I was asking about the aglaonema (this $15 aglaonema, maybe that's why
she didn't mention it.)

Any information is greatly appreciated.

~Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19731 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
That doesn't look like it. The leaves are just a dark green.
I'll take some pictures and post either tonight or tomorrow afternoon.
I really want to know exactly what this is.
Thanks so much! =)
Leslie



<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of FoRTy-TwO
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 6:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] aglaonema



It would be a great deal more helpful if I knew what species of
aglaonema it is... There are about 20 species... http://www.aqua-
<http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?what=plant&cur_lang=2&id=93>
fish.net/show.php?what=plant&cur_lang=2&id=93 <~ That is the one most
commonly found in aquariums... It is called "Silver Queen" and it WILL
live in water... It's a water species

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane Moore <5moores@cebridge.
<mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net>
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 9:51:33 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] aglaonema

I purchased this plant, on a whim which I should not have done, and now
I can not find much about it.
I searched group discussions and found that it might be poisoness... ?!
And I found on the net that it's more of a houseplant.

If it's poisonous, I don't want it. If it's a house plant, why was it
sold as an aquatic plant? The lady that was helping was super (or
seemed so) knowledgeable. I was informed on another plant I was looking
at that it was a land thriving plant and that when left submerged it
would die off within 4-6 months. No mention of this was ever given when
I was asking about the aglaonema (this $15 aglaonema, maybe that's why
she didn't mention it.)

Any information is greatly appreciated.

~Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19732 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Leslie, The Temple Plant of today is Hygrophila
corymbosa "siamensis", also called Giant Hygro. This is not the same
as the Temple Plant of the "Days of Yore", which is not at all
related to Hygrophila. The Hygrophila's grow increasingly
as "strands" or strong thin stalks with a set of leaves coming out at
the segments as it grows. The old Temple Plant grew its long 6" - 7"
narrow, pointed leaves from one central area, much like an Amazon
Sword. These leaves were variagated green and white and where very
tough -- as are a lot of terrestrial plants. To play it safe, it
might be best to pull that Aglaonema out and just pot it.

I've never experienced and mouth fungus with any of the Australian/
New Guinea/ Irian Jaya Rainbows and haven't found them to be
especially prone to this disease. More probably, they are presently
receiving rough handling either at the wholesalers or in shipping.
You don't need to get every grain of the old medication out of the
water; a slight tint should be alright since its in the process of
breaking down anyway. I'm presuming your water is fairly alkaline
for you to be switching medications(?).

Mouth fungus can be a tenacious disease that can sometimes take time
to erradicate, even with meds of the Furazone family. I don't know
what your pH is, but don't forget while Nitrofurans will do better
than Tetracycline in alkaline water, they will still lose their
potency with a high pH. You may have to dose repeatedly to have it
be effective. While you will see results with this medication, if
you feel you're not having too much luck or that its taking longer
than you expected, try Kanamycin Sulfate ("KanaPlex"); its a better
medication yet (for mouth fungus), in alkaline water.

Don't be too surprised or disappointed if the Angel pair eats all of
their eggs before long. You could try just putting the eggs in
another tank (if you have an extra) of clean water, without adding
the egg-fungusing remedy if you don't have it. In clean conditions,
you should get a good number of them hatching without using anything
for them, especially if they prove to be a strong strain and had been
well conditioned. Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
> That's funny that you mention the Temple plant. I was on
LiveAquaria
> looking up Hygrophila and the Temple came up as a form of
Hygrophila.
> It is sold there, at liveaquaria.com, and is sold under the name
Temple.
> Is that the same as you mentioned? Is it also the Hygrophila? It
> sounds much like the hygrophila when described in growth rates and
> height. I also understand that it is no longer allowed to be sold
in
> Florida as it's invasive (a good thing in my opinion.) Many of
these
> types of plants on liveaquaria have a side note that says they can
not
> ship these to Florida but it does not state the reason.
>
> I wonder if I should take the Aglaonema out. I have some kissing
> gouramis that take the occasional nibble out of a plant here and
there
> and I would hate to lose them to this.
>
> Also, thanks for the note on mixing the medications. The rainbows
and
> serpae tetras are much better but they still have a hint of the
white on
> their mouths. Plus the 2 Australian rainbows that I brought home
from
> Fort Worth yesterday now have the white lip. I will be adding them
to
> the already 12 fish that are in the 20 gallon hospital tank. I did
a
> approx.. 40-45% water change this morning & added carbon but it's
still
> pinkish. I will wait until tomorrow, do another small water change
and
> add the other 2 fish then start the fungus clear. Hopefully that
will
> clear this up. I guess rainbows are prone to the mouth fungus?
Each
> one I have purchased has either had it at the buying time or
developed
> it within a day of purchase. Very irritating.
>
> I have planted my 130 gallon despite my blood parrots. I have made
a
> cave consisting of fabulously shaped driftwood pieces and I've put 2
> large rocks within the cave for the female to lay her eggs on. I am
> hoping this will encourage them to make this caved corner their
domain.
> They can dig as much as they like here and not harm anything. I've
> planted the rest of the tank beginning about 1.5 feet from their
area.
> The driftwood that makes up their cave is now holding java moss,
water
> sprite and lace java fern so it looks fairly balanced. None of it
can
> be dug up, to the best of my knowledge anyway. =) (They always
seem to
> surprise me though.)
>
> The angel eggs are still here. They are picking off the eggs that
have
> turned white and possibly a few more. Perhaps I will be able to
report
> "wigglers" before long. =)
>
> ~Leslie
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 12:28 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: aglaonema
>
>
>
> Leslie, The plant, Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen) is widely used as
> an aquatic plant and is said to do well and last long submerged
even
> though it is a houseplant. There are a number of species (and
> hybrids) of these plants, some very attractive, which belong to the
> Arum group. Its also known as the "Cast Iron" plant for reasons
> which are beyond me, but I would think this would be those not used
> for aqua-culture.
>
> It is poisonous, as you suspected, but I don't believe the toxins
are
> released into the water as it would not be continued to be sold for
> this purpose if it killed fish. More likely, if one breaks the
> leaves and/or tries to eat or chew it, it may make that person ill,
> or worse.
>
> Karen Randall, a noted and well respected aquatic plant authority
> well known in the aquarium circle wrote on this plant in "Aquatic
> Horticulture" (February '99). I believe it can be found on Aquarium
> Frontier's On-Line. Anyway, she describes it as non-aquatic and
> further states that it does not last very long in water. I would go
> with Karen's recommendation. It can be used in a similar manner in
> aquarium applications similar to that of Ivy, in that you let the
> roots hang down into the water which will then take up any excess
> ammonia, etc.
>
> This plant, and similar ones erroneously used in the aquarium
trade,
> remind me of the popular varigated Temple Plant which was suddenly
> burst onto the aquarium market back in the late 1960's. While
> appearing very attractive, it was not meant to be submersed nor did
> it do well for any length of time. It was probably just
> someone's "brainstorm" to try to make a buck while the craze
lasted.
> I don't believe its still available today -- at least I haven't
seen
> it. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I purchased this plant, on a whim which I should not have done,
and
> now
> > I can not find much about it.
> > I searched group discussions and found that it might be
> poisoness...?!
> > And I found on the net that it's more of a houseplant.
> >
> > If it's poisonous, I don't want it. If it's a house plant, why
was
> it
> > sold as an aquatic plant? The lady that was helping was super (or
> > seemed so) knowledgeable. I was informed on another plant I was
> looking
> > at that it was a land thriving plant and that when left submerged
it
> > would die off within 4-6 months. No mention of this was ever
given
> when
> > I was asking about the aglaonema (this $15 aglaonema, maybe
that's
> why
> > she didn't mention it.)
> >
> > Any information is greatly appreciated.
> >
> > ~Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19733 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: ? about salt
Yes...I did misinterpret what you said as it did...to me...sound like that
was what you were trying to say...

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, 12 November 2006 21:30
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ? about salt



Yes, quite agreed! Obviously, freshwater has salts in it, although I
fail to see your point. In nature, only rainwater and snow (and
possibly ice-caps and glaciers) are pure of any such salts. As soon
as rainwater hits the ground it is subject to picking up any salts
that may be present. However, in most lakes and river systems
(excluding the Rift Lakes), where many of our aquarium inhabitants
reside -- and they don't reside in the Great Salt Lake of Utah or the
Dead Sea -- these salts which for the most part consist of calcium
and magnesium carbonates are at a very minimum. While the salt
content of water in the Amazon River will vary, depending upon the
season, it has been found not to be major even though the TDS (Total
Dissolved Solids) will vary with the amount of silt in suspension.
During the breeding season it is not unusual for these Amazon River
salts to be in a viciniity of 3 DH (degrees Hardness) or less,
equating to a bit over 50 ppm (parts per million), a trace amount,
with the fish thriving enough as to induce them to spawn because of
it. Again, I would reiterate that these fish do just fine without
the addition of more salt as some hobbyists insist on doing; there is
no one there on the Amazon River dumping truckloads of salt in the
river.

Comparing the amount of salts found in the water of the major rivers
of the world from which our aquarium fish are collected, the
established allowable parameters for freshwater are up to 1000 ppm,
for slightly saline water -- 1000 to 3000 ppm, for moderately saline
water -- 3000 to 10,000 ppm and for highly saline water -- 10,000 to
35,000 ppm. Ocean water is approximayely 35,000 ppm salts. By this
it can be seen freshwater fish live in water in which the salts
quantity is quite minimal, and while the addition of any small
quantities of sodium salts in which it is normally administered is
not normal to their natural environment, it will not be seen to harm
them if the hobbyist insists on adding it, even if it is not
necessary. Ray

P.S.: By your remark on the subject, I would hope that you are not
insinuating that I said or meant in any way that fresh water is salt-
free, since we all know that in nature this is not true. For you to
have thought otherwise (if you did) was to misread my message. As
the old saying goes, "nature abhors a vacuum," and pure water will
not go unadulterated in the presence of minerals.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Rev. Eric Roberts" <woad@...>
wrote:
>
> Freshwater has salts in it. If you were to go to a stream, river,
or
> lake...anywhere in he world...you would find salts in he water. The
> difference between saltwater and freshwater is the concentration.
Why do
> you think that lakes like Salt Lake in Utah, or the Dead Sea have
high salt
> content? They didn't get it from the oceans...they get because of
the high
> evaporation rate which concentrates the amount of salt in the
water. So the
> notion that fresh water is salt free is incorrect. Much of the
processing
> that our tap water goes through removes much of the natural mineral
content
> from the water...so unless you are using well water, which contains
much of
> the natural mineral content, adding salt is a good thing that helps
your
> fish to stay healthy.
>
> Eric
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, 12 November 2006 07:53
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ? about salt
>
>
>
> Salt is overused in freshwater aquaria and, unless treating for a
> disease or disorder, and is absolutely unnecessary. Fish have
lived,
> thrived and evolved in freshwater for millions of years without the
> addition of salt. There are those proponents of salt who, for
whatever
> reason prefer to keep salt in their freshwater tanks, and while not
at
> all necessary, a small amount of salt may be included with their
> fishes' water; 1 (one) Tablespoon per 5 gallons as being generally
> accepted. This will have the benefits of promoting and faster
> replacement of the protective body slime in cases of minor injury
or
> netting that can remove it, as well as stabilizing bodily
electrolytes
> in the event of a more serious injury. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> "momofholly2002" <marian816@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Will it hurt my fancy goldfish if I keep some salt in their tank?
If
> > so how? If not how much is safe?
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19734 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
I googled it and came up with tons of hits. It does not seem to be
poisonous from what I looked at, and it is definitely a house plant.

House plants and other non-aquatic plants do have a short lifespan in an
aquatic environment. You can usually tell when a plant is not aquatic
while still in the store. Land plants usually have a stronger vascular
system as evidence in the veins in the leaves. The stems are generally
thicker and less flexible than those of aquatic plants. The leaves are
generally thicker and have a waxier coating on them than aquatic plants.

One land plant that is popular with some aquarists is the philodendron.
They use the aquarium as a rooting medium, or place the plant in a
filter box with a siphon tube to maintain the water level, or actually
send a slow flow through it with an airstone (if you can find such a
filter still). However, this does not see to be a workable solution for
the algaonema.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane Moore
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:52 AM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] aglaonema

I purchased this plant, on a whim which I should not have done, and now
I can not find much about it.
I searched group discussions and found that it might be poisoness...?!
And I found on the net that it's more of a houseplant.

If it's poisonous, I don't want it. If it's a house plant, why was it
sold as an aquatic plant? The lady that was helping was super (or
seemed so) knowledgeable. I was informed on another plant I was looking
at that it was a land thriving plant and that when left submerged it
would die off within 4-6 months. No mention of this was ever given when
I was asking about the aglaonema (this $15 aglaonema, maybe that's why
she didn't mention it.)

Any information is greatly appreciated.

~Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19735 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Thanks Hank, It helps that everybody knows a little something. My
knowledge on house plants is scant, even if they are used in the
aquarium. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Leslie, The plant, Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen) is widely used
> as
> > an aquatic plant and is said to do well and last long submerged
> even
> > though it is a houseplant. There are a number of species (and
> > hybrids) of these plants, some very attractive, which belong to
> the
> > Arum group. Its also known as the "Cast Iron" plant for reasons
> > which are beyond me, but I would think this would be those not
> used
> > for aqua-culture.
> > =====================
>
> Ray:
> Its called "Cast Iron" because as a pot plant it will grow were
> most other plants will die. They sell these because they look good
> and last quite a while submerged.Harmless to the fish though.
> Hank
>
>
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19736 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on abdomen -- als
I did not really pay attention to the start of this discussion, since I
saw Ray had jumped in.

The "black" coloration you are seeing can just be a normal change of
color in the fish. Goldfish start out life as a very dark bronze color,
and then slowly change to gold. Some fish will change back, at least
partially, over their life span. Some fish will start going dark, then
go back to gold. For the most part, though, they retain the gold color
throughout their lives, once they have attained it. (Of course, this
excludes such varieties as the black moor, shebunkins, etc. which
naturally have other coloration patterns.) So, I'd not worry too much
over the color change.

Without knowing more, I can hardly talk about the listless behavior of
the fish. As was noted earlier, the fancy varieties are not as active as
the comet and common varieties of goldfish. They also do require a
somewhat higher temperature for their best health. I do seem to recall
that the fish is a relatively new addition. Watch to ensure he is not
being bullied by the other fish in the tank. The fact that he has not
clamped his fins during all this can be seen as a positive sign. Also,
if the fins are clean--there is no streaking in them--would also be a
good sign.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Nedra
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 11:01 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation
on abdomen -- also listless..what'

If no one has a better idea can I just do what Steve mentioned in
the "salt" post:
If no one

Steve posted:

"Again, there is no need to add salts to your water unless there is
an
indication to do so. As a treatment it is often the first course one
should take for disease or parasites, along with a water change and
an
increase in temperature. Generally a tablespoon (3 teaspoons) of
salts
per 5 gallons is sufficient. Some treatments may require more. I have
found that the use of a good quality marine salt seems to produce the
best results, but have used kosher salt and even table salt when I
have
had to add salt to the water in a freshwater environment."


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@...>
wrote:
>
> Sorry to be so full of questions!
>
> I have a 3" oranda goldfish developing black pigmentation on the
front
> of the abdomen just behind the gill plates -- also
listless..what's up?
>
> I noticed this fish being listless about 3 weeks ago and took him
back
> to the LFS where I purchased him the previous month. He's in a
tank
> with 3 other goldfish who are all healthy as horses! The guy at
the
> store said he looked like a beautiful healthy specimen -- he
checked a
> cup of the water that I had brought in a separate container from
the
> fish and it proved to be A-OK -- pH 7.8, 0.0 ppm of ammonia,
nitrite
> and nitrate and also crystal clear.
>
> I thought he might be constipated, because he really wasn't even
> interested in food. So fasted him for 2 days (everybody else got
to go
> on a diet with him!)Then gave him boiled peas. A couple of
partial
> water changes since that always seems to spark goldfish up. He
seemed
> to get a little better -- at least he wasn't resting on the bottom
and
> his fins have never been clamped and he started eating again. 3
days
> ago he started spending a lot of time resting on the bottom again
and
> what I thought was a darkening of pigmentation on his abdomen is
> unmistakable now -- definitely black pigment -- looks like a
charcoal
> stain would look on a white background.
> Nobody else looks or acts sick. But he is definitely not feeling
> well. It upsets me even more because the "experts" at the store
gave
> him a "clean bill of health" a couple of weeks ago when we might
have
> had a better chance of saving him.
>
> Oh yeah, I don't feed floating food or anything with grains in it
> (because of the constipation issue with orandas) -- I feed a
variety
> of the frozen omnivore foods as well as frozen brine, bloodworm
and
> tubifex occasionally.
>
> The water still tests out perfect -- but this guy is dying a slow
> death. What's the black pigment change about? Should I isolate
him
> and if so, what should I treat him for while he's in isolation?
>
> Sorry this is so long.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19737 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/13/2006
Subject: Re: java wall, goldie salt, and a general hello
My oh my, where do I start?

How about your source for the statement that goldfish are more brackish
water fish than freshwater?

What studies have shown about the use of salt is that the salt increases
the production of mucous that coats the fish. That it can help in the
healing of open wounds by reducing the osmotic pressure to the fish.
Salt can kill certain bacteria and parasites. With the parasites, it
generally depends upon a stage of their life cycle, and there generally
need to be other circumstances to aid the salt in its work. However the
bacteria that do survive, become more difficult to eradicate with salt,
and other chemicals must then come into play.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Loki Wolf
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 11:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] re: java wall, goldie salt, and a general hello

Here's a link to building a java moss wall:

http://www.killies.com/Mosswall.htm



Re: salt and goldies, and salt and freshwater in general, Here's what I
generally go by...

goldies like salt. they are more brackish than freshwater, when it comes

right down to it. that doesn't mean they like a LOT of salt, just that
they like more salt than many freshwater tanks usually have.

That being said, I do put salt in freshwater tanks ONCE and ONLY ONCE...

when I am cycling a NEW TANK, during the nitrite spike. I add perhaps a
tablespoon per 10 gallons. The salt helps to minimize stress by adding
electrolytes that help the fish breathe, since nitrites inhibit the fish

from taking oxygen from the water as efficiently.

Ok, I lied... I also put salt in quarantine and hospital tanks. Salt has

been shown in various studies to help prevent bacteria and parasites
from wanting to stick to the slime coat, and again, in hospital tanks,
we add meds or chemicals that can stress the fishies, so between that,
and helping a stressed fishie breathe, it's good for hospital tanks.

But adding salt just to add it? Nope.

Adding salt on a regular basis? Not unless it's a true brackish tank.

Even when I had goldies, I'd add it at the tank's startup, and then just

a handful here and there after water changes.

Hope this helps.

And thanks for bringing me into your group!

~grayce
chronic bettaholic with multiple tank syndrome (MTS)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19738 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: tank
im going to give it a try so ill see cause it measures the same thickness as
the 20 gallon that is like 24 high.. Shannon

Even if this tank is only 1/8" (about 3.2 mm) I can't see why it wouldn't be

safe for water since it's only 12" tall.

It would be interesting to get an exact size for the glass tho.

tim




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19739 From: hank voss Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...> wrote:
> ==========================
Ive raised that for years as a pot plant ( can get quite tall)mine was
3ft.tall when i got rid of it.As far as i know this whole group are
land plants or at least bog plants.
Hank

> It would be a great deal more helpful if I knew what species of
aglaonema it is... There are about 20 species... http://www.aqua-
fish.net/show.php?what=plant&cur_lang=2&id=93 <~ That is the one most
commonly found in aquariums... It is called "Silver Queen" and it WILL
live in water... It's a water species
>
> Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19740 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Again... THERE ARE OVER 20 SPECIES OF THIS PLANT.... Some are completely aquatic... Some are succulents... Some are marsh growers and some need moderate water... THEY ARE NOT ALL HOUSE PLANTS... And some of them ARE poisonous

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums



...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19741 From: hank voss Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...> wrote:
> =====================
Which ones are aquatic?I looked in my Tropica plant book and could no
find any truely aquatic ones .
Hank

> Again... THERE ARE OVER 20 SPECIES OF THIS PLANT.... Some are
completely aquatic... Some are succulents... Some are marsh growers
and some need moderate water... THEY ARE NOT ALL HOUSE PLANTS... And
some of them ARE poisonous
>
> Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums
>
>
>
> ...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19742 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
I have wigglers. =)

My quarantine tank is occupied or I would move the leaf to which they
are attached and attempt to raise them there. =(
That stinks. About 1/2 the eggs are still there, the parents have
picked off the rest. They are picking them off as we speak. They eat
the wigglers?
They are so cute! And you can a tiny dark dot in each egg now.
I really wish I had been prepared for this.

If I were to move them, would a sponge of the filter intake be
sufficient so as not to have them sucked in? I have a spare 10 gal but
I don't think I have another heater (all 7 of them are being used.) I
have a 30 gallon filter which I would think would be too much for the
fry. ?

Grrrr...

L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 9:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!



Leslie, Looks like that fish store was an unexpected but pleasant
find. Sounds like that's a place to definitely check out next time
you're down that way. Nice to see you found some plants there to
your liking.

When it comes to angels, you have read right; they often eat the eggs
within a day or so, and then the behavior may continue for any number
of future spawns -- no telling when or if they will settle down to
raise them. On the other hand, they may just raise them from the
first time on (no guarantees there, though). If you want to be
assured that you will have fry to raise, the best thing is to remove
the eggs to a separate tank of their own, with clean water (no gravel
on bottom), with some Acriflavin or Methylene Blue added to prevent
fungus. Some hobbyists use a gallon jar for hatching since the water
will turn either green or blue (from the fungus remedy) and is more
convenient to have just in the hatching tank rather than in the
rearing tank, where a much larger quantity of water would have to be
changed out (to remove the coloration).

If you're inclined to hatch them yourself, the leaf (I think you said
they used a leaf) will have to be weighted down, maybe by the stem,
and a small airstone placed next to it. The temperature should be as
close to 80o as possible in both the hatching container and the
rearing tank. They will hatch in 3 days (still will egg sacks on
them) and will remain as wigglers. Then, they will start free-
swimming after another 4 days, at which time they will be looking to
eat -- don't feed them before this time.

One day before they start swimming, you should start a hatch of BBS
(baby brine shrimp); this takes about 24 hours at 80o, so should be
ready for feeding as the angel fry start swimming. There are
numerous ways to hatch brine shrimp, from buying a hatcher to using a
gallon jar or inverted 2 liter bottle with the bottom cut out. They
hatch in water using 6 Tablespoons of salt per gallon (using about
1/4 teaspoon of shrimp eggs -- available at your LFS), with an
airstone at the bottom. This should give you enough shrimp for two
to three feedings for the day. To harvest them, remove or shut off
the air stone and let the newly hatched baby brine shrimp settle to
the bottom where they can be drawn off through a muslin or cotton
handkerchief supported over the opening of a gallon jar. A new hatch
of BBS will have to be set up each day to ensure a steady supply of
food for the fry. They can be raised on a good powdered food, but
not as successfully, although its better than nothing if you can't do
the BBS. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> The drive was pleasantly uneventful, thank you.
>
> I went there to visit family, the fish store was a great bonus. I
was
> actually on my way to another store when I saw it. I pulled in and
> spent almost 2 hours in there then went in again Sunday to buy the
> things I had picked out the day before.
> They said they were "low" on pants since this was not the buying
season.
> I can't wait to go in when they have their normal stock. It will be
> good timing since that will give my plants time to spread out and do
> what it is they are going to do given their tank conditions. I
don't
> want to add much more until I see what will happen with everything I
> already have.
>
> I'm not really expecting the eggs to hatch since most of what I have
> read has mentioned that first time angel parents will usually eat
them
> within a day or so. The eggs are still here this morning and being
> cautiously guarded by their parents, so that's a good sign that
maybe
> they have a good instinct going into this.
> I won't know what to do if they do hatch so if you would like to
throw
> some words of wisdom my way they will be welcomed.
>
> Leslie
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:12 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
>
>
>
> Leslie, Hope you had a pleasant drive; that was a long one. Was
that
> drive just for getting to "That Fish Place"? If so, I hope it was
> worthwhile -- it appears as if it may have been. Glad to see your
> angels have laid eggs. Let us know if and when you need help with
> them. Ray
>
> P.S.: There's a "That Fish Place" here in the Northeast, in
> Pennsylvania which is always well stocked with both plants and fish.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I went to Fort Worth this past weekend and happened upon a fish
store
> > called "That Fish Place." I fell in love.
> > They had tons of plants I have had a hard time finding as well as
> fish.
> > I drove back home, a 5 hour drive, with loads of plants and 5
fish.
> >
> > What I am most thrilled about is that I came home to see that my
two
> > blue(ish) freshwater angels have LAID EGGS! They are on a leaf of
a
> > large Amazon sword. I am absolutely stoked that they are a
pair!!!!
> >
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19743 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
They mouth the wigglers, eat the non hatching eggs and deformed
young. The slime coating in their mouth helps the wigglers keep
healthy and bacteria free.

> I have wigglers. =)
>
> My quarantine tank is occupied or I would move the leaf to which
they
> are attached and attempt to raise them there. =(
> That stinks. About 1/2 the eggs are still there, the parents have
> picked off the rest. They are picking them off as we speak. They
eat
> the wigglers?
> They are so cute! And you can a tiny dark dot in each egg now.
> I really wish I had been prepared for this.
>
> If I were to move them, would a sponge of the filter intake be
> sufficient so as not to have them sucked in? I have a spare 10 gal
but
> I don't think I have another heater (all 7 of them are being
used.) I
> have a 30 gallon filter which I would think would be too much for
the
> fry. ?
>
> Grrrr...
>
> L
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 9:25 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
>
>
>
> Leslie, Looks like that fish store was an unexpected but pleasant
> find. Sounds like that's a place to definitely check out next time
> you're down that way. Nice to see you found some plants there to
> your liking.
>
> When it comes to angels, you have read right; they often eat the
eggs
> within a day or so, and then the behavior may continue for any
number
> of future spawns -- no telling when or if they will settle down to
> raise them. On the other hand, they may just raise them from the
> first time on (no guarantees there, though). If you want to be
> assured that you will have fry to raise, the best thing is to
remove
> the eggs to a separate tank of their own, with clean water (no
gravel
> on bottom), with some Acriflavin or Methylene Blue added to prevent
> fungus. Some hobbyists use a gallon jar for hatching since the
water
> will turn either green or blue (from the fungus remedy) and is more
> convenient to have just in the hatching tank rather than in the
> rearing tank, where a much larger quantity of water would have to
be
> changed out (to remove the coloration).
>
> If you're inclined to hatch them yourself, the leaf (I think you
said
> they used a leaf) will have to be weighted down, maybe by the stem,
> and a small airstone placed next to it. The temperature should be
as
> close to 80o as possible in both the hatching container and the
> rearing tank. They will hatch in 3 days (still will egg sacks on
> them) and will remain as wigglers. Then, they will start free-
> swimming after another 4 days, at which time they will be looking
to
> eat -- don't feed them before this time.
>
> One day before they start swimming, you should start a hatch of BBS
> (baby brine shrimp); this takes about 24 hours at 80o, so should be
> ready for feeding as the angel fry start swimming. There are
> numerous ways to hatch brine shrimp, from buying a hatcher to using
a
> gallon jar or inverted 2 liter bottle with the bottom cut out. They
> hatch in water using 6 Tablespoons of salt per gallon (using about
> 1/4 teaspoon of shrimp eggs -- available at your LFS), with an
> airstone at the bottom. This should give you enough shrimp for two
> to three feedings for the day. To harvest them, remove or shut off
> the air stone and let the newly hatched baby brine shrimp settle to
> the bottom where they can be drawn off through a muslin or cotton
> handkerchief supported over the opening of a gallon jar. A new
hatch
> of BBS will have to be set up each day to ensure a steady supply of
> food for the fry. They can be raised on a good powdered food, but
> not as successfully, although its better than nothing if you can't
do
> the BBS. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > Ray,
> >
> > The drive was pleasantly uneventful, thank you.
> >
> > I went there to visit family, the fish store was a great bonus. I
> was
> > actually on my way to another store when I saw it. I pulled in and
> > spent almost 2 hours in there then went in again Sunday to buy the
> > things I had picked out the day before.
> > They said they were "low" on pants since this was not the buying
> season.
> > I can't wait to go in when they have their normal stock. It will
be
> > good timing since that will give my plants time to spread out and
do
> > what it is they are going to do given their tank conditions. I
> don't
> > want to add much more until I see what will happen with
everything I
> > already have.
> >
> > I'm not really expecting the eggs to hatch since most of what I
have
> > read has mentioned that first time angel parents will usually eat
> them
> > within a day or so. The eggs are still here this morning and being
> > cautiously guarded by their parents, so that's a good sign that
> maybe
> > they have a good instinct going into this.
> > I won't know what to do if they do hatch so if you would like to
> throw
> > some words of wisdom my way they will be welcomed.
> >
> > Leslie
> > <http://groups.
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:12 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Leslie, Hope you had a pleasant drive; that was a long one. Was
> that
> > drive just for getting to "That Fish Place"? If so, I hope it was
> > worthwhile -- it appears as if it may have been. Glad to see your
> > angels have laid eggs. Let us know if and when you need help with
> > them. Ray
> >
> > P.S.: There's a "That Fish Place" here in the Northeast, in
> > Pennsylvania which is always well stocked with both plants and
fish.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> > <5moores@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I went to Fort Worth this past weekend and happened upon a fish
> store
> > > called "That Fish Place." I fell in love.
> > > They had tons of plants I have had a hard time finding as well
as
> > fish.
> > > I drove back home, a 5 hour drive, with loads of plants and 5
> fish.
> > >
> > > What I am most thrilled about is that I came home to see that
my
> two
> > > blue(ish) freshwater angels have LAID EGGS! They are on a leaf
of
> a
> > > large Amazon sword. I am absolutely stoked that they are a
> pair!!!!
> > >
> > > Leslie
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19744 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Leslie, Leave your quarantine tank as it is, and don't be concerned
about it. As you mention you have a 10 gallon not being used,
there's nothing wrong with starting them there -- at least they won't
be eaten. If you want to raise angels in the future, you'll need to
be prepared.

If there is any tank that can do without a heater, maybe you could
borrow that heater for the ten gallon. If not, set up the ten gallon
as is, with water at the same temperature as the tank they are
presently in, or a degree or two over that. This will lend you some
time to get to the LFS this afternoon to get another heater if its
convenient for you. The tank will start to cool down somewhat, but
depending on the room temperature they will survive, especially if
its not much cooler than 74o or so. This may even give you time to
get a heater tomorrow morning, if you can't do it today. While not
exactly ideal, they'll be alright temporarily in the low 70's --
there are times when pairs will successfully spawn at those
temperatures in spite of our efforts to rest them from this chore.

They do not need a filter right away, but should at least have an
airstone and you can definitely use the sponge filter. A 30 gallon
filter would be too strong. If the parents are picking them off as
we speak, and you really do want to save them, set up any small
container you have, with fresh water and conditioner, just to get
them out of the tank. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I have wigglers. =)
>
> My quarantine tank is occupied or I would move the leaf to which
they
> are attached and attempt to raise them there. =(
> That stinks. About 1/2 the eggs are still there, the parents have
> picked off the rest. They are picking them off as we speak. They
eat
> the wigglers?
> They are so cute! And you can a tiny dark dot in each egg now.
> I really wish I had been prepared for this.
>
> If I were to move them, would a sponge of the filter intake be
> sufficient so as not to have them sucked in? I have a spare 10 gal
but
> I don't think I have another heater (all 7 of them are being
used.) I
> have a 30 gallon filter which I would think would be too much for
the
> fry. ?
>
> Grrrr...
>
> L
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 9:25 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
>
>
>
> Leslie, Looks like that fish store was an unexpected but pleasant
> find. Sounds like that's a place to definitely check out next time
> you're down that way. Nice to see you found some plants there to
> your liking.
>
> When it comes to angels, you have read right; they often eat the
eggs
> within a day or so, and then the behavior may continue for any
number
> of future spawns -- no telling when or if they will settle down to
> raise them. On the other hand, they may just raise them from the
> first time on (no guarantees there, though). If you want to be
> assured that you will have fry to raise, the best thing is to
remove
> the eggs to a separate tank of their own, with clean water (no
gravel
> on bottom), with some Acriflavin or Methylene Blue added to prevent
> fungus. Some hobbyists use a gallon jar for hatching since the
water
> will turn either green or blue (from the fungus remedy) and is more
> convenient to have just in the hatching tank rather than in the
> rearing tank, where a much larger quantity of water would have to
be
> changed out (to remove the coloration).
>
> If you're inclined to hatch them yourself, the leaf (I think you
said
> they used a leaf) will have to be weighted down, maybe by the stem,
> and a small airstone placed next to it. The temperature should be
as
> close to 80o as possible in both the hatching container and the
> rearing tank. They will hatch in 3 days (still will egg sacks on
> them) and will remain as wigglers. Then, they will start free-
> swimming after another 4 days, at which time they will be looking
to
> eat -- don't feed them before this time.
>
> One day before they start swimming, you should start a hatch of BBS
> (baby brine shrimp); this takes about 24 hours at 80o, so should be
> ready for feeding as the angel fry start swimming. There are
> numerous ways to hatch brine shrimp, from buying a hatcher to using
a
> gallon jar or inverted 2 liter bottle with the bottom cut out. They
> hatch in water using 6 Tablespoons of salt per gallon (using about
> 1/4 teaspoon of shrimp eggs -- available at your LFS), with an
> airstone at the bottom. This should give you enough shrimp for two
> to three feedings for the day. To harvest them, remove or shut off
> the air stone and let the newly hatched baby brine shrimp settle to
> the bottom where they can be drawn off through a muslin or cotton
> handkerchief supported over the opening of a gallon jar. A new
hatch
> of BBS will have to be set up each day to ensure a steady supply of
> food for the fry. They can be raised on a good powdered food, but
> not as successfully, although its better than nothing if you can't
do
> the BBS. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > Ray,
> >
> > The drive was pleasantly uneventful, thank you.
> >
> > I went there to visit family, the fish store was a great bonus. I
> was
> > actually on my way to another store when I saw it. I pulled in and
> > spent almost 2 hours in there then went in again Sunday to buy the
> > things I had picked out the day before.
> > They said they were "low" on pants since this was not the buying
> season.
> > I can't wait to go in when they have their normal stock. It will
be
> > good timing since that will give my plants time to spread out and
do
> > what it is they are going to do given their tank conditions. I
> don't
> > want to add much more until I see what will happen with
everything I
> > already have.
> >
> > I'm not really expecting the eggs to hatch since most of what I
have
> > read has mentioned that first time angel parents will usually eat
> them
> > within a day or so. The eggs are still here this morning and being
> > cautiously guarded by their parents, so that's a good sign that
> maybe
> > they have a good instinct going into this.
> > I won't know what to do if they do hatch so if you would like to
> throw
> > some words of wisdom my way they will be welcomed.
> >
> > Leslie
> > <http://groups.
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:12 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Leslie, Hope you had a pleasant drive; that was a long one. Was
> that
> > drive just for getting to "That Fish Place"? If so, I hope it was
> > worthwhile -- it appears as if it may have been. Glad to see your
> > angels have laid eggs. Let us know if and when you need help with
> > them. Ray
> >
> > P.S.: There's a "That Fish Place" here in the Northeast, in
> > Pennsylvania which is always well stocked with both plants and
fish.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> > <5moores@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I went to Fort Worth this past weekend and happened upon a fish
> store
> > > called "That Fish Place." I fell in love.
> > > They had tons of plants I have had a hard time finding as well
as
> > fish.
> > > I drove back home, a 5 hour drive, with loads of plants and 5
> fish.
> > >
> > > What I am most thrilled about is that I came home to see that
my
> two
> > > blue(ish) freshwater angels have LAID EGGS! They are on a leaf
of
> a
> > > large Amazon sword. I am absolutely stoked that they are a
> pair!!!!
> > >
> > > Leslie
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19745 From: Leslie & Dane Moore Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Ray,
They ate all the wigglers but I snipped the leaf with the eggs that
remained and it is now in the 3 gallon Eclipse at 81F. (I scooped the
neons out, which was a terrible chore w/ the plants, and added them to
the Eclipse 6.)
Their is a Flourite substrate and as of now the filter intake is not
covered. I've added a few drops of Acrliflavin as well. I hope it
won't stain the acrylic.

There are 2 eggs that are shaking as if trying to hatch and I think
there might be another that has already done so. There are about 20-30
other unhatched eggs on the leaf.

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 10:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!



Leslie, Leave your quarantine tank as it is, and don't be concerned
about it. As you mention you have a 10 gallon not being used,
there's nothing wrong with starting them there -- at least they won't
be eaten. If you want to raise angels in the future, you'll need to
be prepared.

If there is any tank that can do without a heater, maybe you could
borrow that heater for the ten gallon. If not, set up the ten gallon
as is, with water at the same temperature as the tank they are
presently in, or a degree or two over that. This will lend you some
time to get to the LFS this afternoon to get another heater if its
convenient for you. The tank will start to cool down somewhat, but
depending on the room temperature they will survive, especially if
its not much cooler than 74o or so. This may even give you time to
get a heater tomorrow morning, if you can't do it today. While not
exactly ideal, they'll be alright temporarily in the low 70's --
there are times when pairs will successfully spawn at those
temperatures in spite of our efforts to rest them from this chore.

They do not need a filter right away, but should at least have an
airstone and you can definitely use the sponge filter. A 30 gallon
filter would be too strong. If the parents are picking them off as
we speak, and you really do want to save them, set up any small
container you have, with fresh water and conditioner, just to get
them out of the tank. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I have wigglers. =)
>
> My quarantine tank is occupied or I would move the leaf to which
they
> are attached and attempt to raise them there. =(
> That stinks. About 1/2 the eggs are still there, the parents have
> picked off the rest. They are picking them off as we speak. They
eat
> the wigglers?
> They are so cute! And you can a tiny dark dot in each egg now.
> I really wish I had been prepared for this.
>
> If I were to move them, would a sponge of the filter intake be
> sufficient so as not to have them sucked in? I have a spare 10 gal
but
> I don't think I have another heater (all 7 of them are being
used.) I
> have a 30 gallon filter which I would think would be too much for
the
> fry. ?
>
> Grrrr...
>
> L
>
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 9:25 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
>
>
>
> Leslie, Looks like that fish store was an unexpected but pleasant
> find. Sounds like that's a place to definitely check out next time
> you're down that way. Nice to see you found some plants there to
> your liking.
>
> When it comes to angels, you have read right; they often eat the
eggs
> within a day or so, and then the behavior may continue for any
number
> of future spawns -- no telling when or if they will settle down to
> raise them. On the other hand, they may just raise them from the
> first time on (no guarantees there, though). If you want to be
> assured that you will have fry to raise, the best thing is to
remove
> the eggs to a separate tank of their own, with clean water (no
gravel
> on bottom), with some Acriflavin or Methylene Blue added to prevent
> fungus. Some hobbyists use a gallon jar for hatching since the
water
> will turn either green or blue (from the fungus remedy) and is more
> convenient to have just in the hatching tank rather than in the
> rearing tank, where a much larger quantity of water would have to
be
> changed out (to remove the coloration).
>
> If you're inclined to hatch them yourself, the leaf (I think you
said
> they used a leaf) will have to be weighted down, maybe by the stem,
> and a small airstone placed next to it. The temperature should be
as
> close to 80o as possible in both the hatching container and the
> rearing tank. They will hatch in 3 days (still will egg sacks on
> them) and will remain as wigglers. Then, they will start free-
> swimming after another 4 days, at which time they will be looking
to
> eat -- don't feed them before this time.
>
> One day before they start swimming, you should start a hatch of BBS
> (baby brine shrimp); this takes about 24 hours at 80o, so should be
> ready for feeding as the angel fry start swimming. There are
> numerous ways to hatch brine shrimp, from buying a hatcher to using
a
> gallon jar or inverted 2 liter bottle with the bottom cut out. They
> hatch in water using 6 Tablespoons of salt per gallon (using about
> 1/4 teaspoon of shrimp eggs -- available at your LFS), with an
> airstone at the bottom. This should give you enough shrimp for two
> to three feedings for the day. To harvest them, remove or shut off
> the air stone and let the newly hatched baby brine shrimp settle to
> the bottom where they can be drawn off through a muslin or cotton
> handkerchief supported over the opening of a gallon jar. A new
hatch
> of BBS will have to be set up each day to ensure a steady supply of
> food for the fry. They can be raised on a good powdered food, but
> not as successfully, although its better than nothing if you can't
do
> the BBS. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > Ray,
> >
> > The drive was pleasantly uneventful, thank you.
> >
> > I went there to visit family, the fish store was a great bonus. I
> was
> > actually on my way to another store when I saw it. I pulled in and
> > spent almost 2 hours in there then went in again Sunday to buy the
> > things I had picked out the day before.
> > They said they were "low" on pants since this was not the buying
> season.
> > I can't wait to go in when they have their normal stock. It will
be
> > good timing since that will give my plants time to spread out and
do
> > what it is they are going to do given their tank conditions. I
> don't
> > want to add much more until I see what will happen with
everything I
> > already have.
> >
> > I'm not really expecting the eggs to hatch since most of what I
have
> > read has mentioned that first time angel parents will usually eat
> them
> > within a day or so. The eggs are still here this morning and being
> > cautiously guarded by their parents, so that's a good sign that
> maybe
> > they have a good instinct going into this.
> > I won't know what to do if they do hatch so if you would like to
> throw
> > some words of wisdom my way they will be welcomed.
> >
> > Leslie
> > <http://groups.
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:12 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Leslie, Hope you had a pleasant drive; that was a long one. Was
> that
> > drive just for getting to "That Fish Place"? If so, I hope it was
> > worthwhile -- it appears as if it may have been. Glad to see your
> > angels have laid eggs. Let us know if and when you need help with
> > them. Ray
> >
> > P.S.: There's a "That Fish Place" here in the Northeast, in
> > Pennsylvania which is always well stocked with both plants and
fish.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> > <5moores@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I went to Fort Worth this past weekend and happened upon a fish
> store
> > > called "That Fish Place." I fell in love.
> > > They had tons of plants I have had a hard time finding as well
as
> > fish.
> > > I drove back home, a 5 hour drive, with loads of plants and 5
> fish.
> > >
> > > What I am most thrilled about is that I came home to see that
my
> two
> > > blue(ish) freshwater angels have LAID EGGS! They are on a leaf
of
> a
> > > large Amazon sword. I am absolutely stoked that they are a
> pair!!!!
> > >
> > > Leslie
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19746 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
They only usually label 5 species in plant books due to them being the most common household varieties... Silver Queens are completely aquatic... They actually have to harvest them from the water

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums



----- Original Message ----
From: hank voss <aatetras@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 9:13:29 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: aglaonema

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ ...> wrote:
> ============ =========
Which ones are aquatic?I looked in my Tropica plant book and could no
find any truely aquatic ones .
Hank

> Again... THERE ARE OVER 20 SPECIES OF THIS PLANT.... Some are
completely aquatic... Some are succulents.. . Some are marsh growers
and some need moderate water... THEY ARE NOT ALL HOUSE PLANTS... And
some of them ARE poisonous
>
> Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums
>
>
>
> ...
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19747 From: Rodrigo Jr. Marquez Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Correct me if I'm wrong but I beg to differ in opinion with regards to Spathiphyllum commutatum cv Silver Queen. It's not totally aquatic: the stem and roots can grow in water but the leaves will drown if submersed. It's at the most a marginal and bog plant but it's parent variety is found in the wild in moist not wet soil. It can also thrive in drier conditions. As far as I know, there are no aglaonema species that are truly aquatic in the sense that it will grow and thrive fully underwater for an indefinite period of time. Another species passed of as totally aquatic is Aglaonema modestum.

Rod

FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...> wrote:
They only usually label 5 species in plant books due to them being the most common household varieties... Silver Queens are completely aquatic... They actually have to harvest them from the water



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19748 From: hank voss Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rodrigo Jr. Marquez"
<la_rmarquezjr@...> wrote:
> ===========================
Rod:
Thats exactly what im finding out i dug out my big plant book
and it has 20 varieties of the plant Aglaoema, "Silver Queen" is
listed as a Florida Hybrid.My book has 1100 pages of plants and
covers just about all plants you can find and they all are listed as
bog or ter. plants.They will live submerged for a while but their
whole life.
Regards Hank

> Correct me if I'm wrong but I beg to differ in opinion with
regards to Spathiphyllum commutatum cv Silver Queen. It's not
totally aquatic: the stem and roots can grow in water but the leaves
will drown if submersed. It's at the most a marginal and bog plant
but it's parent variety is found in the wild in moist not wet soil.
It can also thrive in drier conditions. As far as I know, there are
no aglaonema species that are truly aquatic in the sense that it
will grow and thrive fully underwater for an indefinite period of
time. Another species passed of as totally aquatic is Aglaonema
modestum.
>
> Rod
>
> FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...> wrote:
> They only usually label 5 species in plant books due to
them being the most common household varieties... Silver Queens are
completely aquatic... They actually have to harvest them from the
water
>
>
>
> Recent Activity
>
> 13
> New Members
>
> 2
> New Links
>
> Visit Your Group
> SPONSORED LINKS
>
> Marine fish
> Marine supply fish
> Marine aquarium fish
> Marine fish tank
> Marine fish supply
>
> Sitebuilder
> Over 380 Templates
> Build and custo-
> mize your web site
>
> Y! Toolbar
> Get it Free!
> easy 1-click access
> to your groups.
>
> Yahoo! Groups
> Start a group
> in 3 easy steps.
> Connect with others.
>
>
>
> .
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19749 From: hank voss Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rodrigo Jr. Marquez"
> <la_rmarquezjr@> wrote:
> > ===========================
> Rod:
> Thats exactly what im finding out i dug out my big plant book
> and it has 20 varieties of the plant Aglaoema, "Silver Queen" is
> listed as a Florida Hybrid.My book has 1100 pages of plants and
> covers just about all plants you can find and they all are listed
as
> bog or ter. plants.They will live submerged for a while but their
> whole life.
> Regards Hank
> =======================
The last line should read; They will live submerged for a while but
not their whole life.Sorry about that.I have to learn to read before
i send.
Hank

> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19750 From: - the one behind the masks - the playwri Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: java wall, goldie salt, and a general hello
Ok, ok, comparing them to brackish fish was a bit extreme on my part,
I admit... yet they do tolerate and prefer a bit more salt in their
water than most freshwater fish...

As far as organisms becoming resistant to salt? Hmmm... Well..
organisms quickly become resistant to medications and chemicals added
to water, and those chemicals and medications are more stressful to
fish than salt is, so I'd think one would try the salt first, being
the least stressful and most natural of the various cures, as it
stimulates the fish's own defenses against the disease or parasite.
IF that doesn't work, and there are times when it won't, then bring
out the big guns and medicate.

As mentioned, I'm not advocating salt in every tank every time... Just
in certain scenarios for very specific reasons.

At any rate, the salt debate has been rehashed in so many forums and
there will always be those at either extreme in beliefs... I am simply
somewhere in between. I don't use salt religiously or overzealously,
but I do see it's benefits in specific situations.

*shrugs* Considering I've lost a total of 1 fish ( a rescue that I was
too late for) in the past 4 years, having 10 entirely different tank
setups at various times, from goldies to brackish to community
tropical tanks to planted species tanks, I think I do ok.

Thanks for the *warm* welcome to the group!

~ grayce
~~chronic bettaholic with multiple tank syndrome(MTS) ~~












--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> My oh my, where do I start?
>
> How about your source for the statement that goldfish are more brackish
> water fish than freshwater?
>
> What studies have shown about the use of salt is that the salt increases
> the production of mucous that coats the fish. That it can help in the
> healing of open wounds by reducing the osmotic pressure to the fish.
> Salt can kill certain bacteria and parasites. With the parasites, it
> generally depends upon a stage of their life cycle, and there generally
> need to be other circumstances to aid the salt in its work. However the
> bacteria that do survive, become more difficult to eradicate with salt,
> and other chemicals must then come into play.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Loki Wolf
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 11:27 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] re: java wall, goldie salt, and a general hello
>
> Here's a link to building a java moss wall:
>
> http://www.killies.com/Mosswall.htm
>
>
>
> Re: salt and goldies, and salt and freshwater in general, Here's what I
> generally go by...
>
> goldies like salt. they are more brackish than freshwater, when it comes
>
> right down to it. that doesn't mean they like a LOT of salt, just that
> they like more salt than many freshwater tanks usually have.
>
> That being said, I do put salt in freshwater tanks ONCE and ONLY ONCE...
>
> when I am cycling a NEW TANK, during the nitrite spike. I add perhaps a
> tablespoon per 10 gallons. The salt helps to minimize stress by adding
> electrolytes that help the fish breathe, since nitrites inhibit the fish
>
> from taking oxygen from the water as efficiently.
>
> Ok, I lied... I also put salt in quarantine and hospital tanks. Salt has
>
> been shown in various studies to help prevent bacteria and parasites
> from wanting to stick to the slime coat, and again, in hospital tanks,
> we add meds or chemicals that can stress the fishies, so between that,
> and helping a stressed fishie breathe, it's good for hospital tanks.
>
> But adding salt just to add it? Nope.
>
> Adding salt on a regular basis? Not unless it's a true brackish tank.
>
> Even when I had goldies, I'd add it at the tank's startup, and then just
>
> a handful here and there after water changes.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> And thanks for bringing me into your group!
>
> ~grayce
> chronic bettaholic with multiple tank syndrome (MTS)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19751 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: worms in live rock
I have started a science project with a 2 gallon tank and 1 piece of live
rock. It is all going well. I am learning my ways about reef keeping very
slowly. What are the little worms I see living in this rock? Should I be feeding
them?

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19752 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Karen they are most likly bristle worm

Morganawolf1@... wrote: I have started a science project with a 2 gallon tank and 1 piece of live
rock. It is all going well. I am learning my ways about reef keeping very
slowly. What are the little worms I see living in this rock? Should I be feeding
them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19753 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/14/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Well are they attached to the rock like a fan? Well if so they are a filter feeder and should be fed filter feeding foods. You should be able to get them at your lfs.


----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 10:06:05 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

I have started a science project with a 2 gallon tank and 1 piece of live
rock. It is all going well. I am learning my ways about reef keeping very
slowly. What are the little worms I see living in this rock? Should I be feeding
them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19754 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
Leslie, While not the ideal situation, you should be able to raise
them in the 3 gallon for up to two weeks, after which I advise
putting them in the 10 gallon. With a flourite substrate, it may be
next to impossible to keep the bottom free of spent food and debris.
A more ideal environment would have been to put them in the 10,
having a bare bottom for ease of maintenance, but at least you
rescued some. Probably best that there are only 20 - 30 (if they all
hatch) since they'll be much easier to raise than a whole spawn. I
hope you didn't stress the Neons too much.

Since they are at the hatching stage, you didn't need to add the
acriflavin, but I doubt it will stain the acrylic. You can remove it
today and/or tomorrow by adding fresh carbon to the filter. If your
filter is adjustable, turn it down to reduce the flow and cover the
intake with a wide layer of filter sponge. Anything less than that
will draw the fry against the sponge material and hold them there,
killing them, even if it won't allow them to be drawn into the
filter. If your filter is too strong, I'd advise turning it off by
mid-day Friday and just use an airstone. This will give you time to
get a sponge filter for the 10 gallon tank to use with your air
pump. With careful feeding, they should not need a filter
temporarily, although you could add the sponge filter for use in the
3 as soon as you get it.

The fry should be free-swimming in 3 1/2 to 4 days after you first
saw them hatching, so that means late Friday evening or Saturday
morning at the latest. If you're intending to set up a brine shrimp
hatcher, this should be done by tomorrow (Thursday) afternoon. You
could also use frozen baby brine shrimp along with finely powdered
foods, even though they're not the best. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
<5moores@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
> They ate all the wigglers but I snipped the leaf with the eggs that
> remained and it is now in the 3 gallon Eclipse at 81F. (I scooped
the
> neons out, which was a terrible chore w/ the plants, and added them
to
> the Eclipse 6.)
> Their is a Flourite substrate and as of now the filter intake is not
> covered. I've added a few drops of Acrliflavin as well. I hope it
> won't stain the acrylic.
>
> There are 2 eggs that are shaking as if trying to hatch and I think
> there might be another that has already done so. There are about
20-30
> other unhatched eggs on the leaf.
>
> Leslie
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 10:28 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
>
>
>
> Leslie, Leave your quarantine tank as it is, and don't be concerned
> about it. As you mention you have a 10 gallon not being used,
> there's nothing wrong with starting them there -- at least they
won't
> be eaten. If you want to raise angels in the future, you'll need to
> be prepared.
>
> If there is any tank that can do without a heater, maybe you could
> borrow that heater for the ten gallon. If not, set up the ten
gallon
> as is, with water at the same temperature as the tank they are
> presently in, or a degree or two over that. This will lend you some
> time to get to the LFS this afternoon to get another heater if its
> convenient for you. The tank will start to cool down somewhat, but
> depending on the room temperature they will survive, especially if
> its not much cooler than 74o or so. This may even give you time to
> get a heater tomorrow morning, if you can't do it today. While not
> exactly ideal, they'll be alright temporarily in the low 70's --
> there are times when pairs will successfully spawn at those
> temperatures in spite of our efforts to rest them from this chore.
>
> They do not need a filter right away, but should at least have an
> airstone and you can definitely use the sponge filter. A 30 gallon
> filter would be too strong. If the parents are picking them off as
> we speak, and you really do want to save them, set up any small
> container you have, with fresh water and conditioner, just to get
> them out of the tank. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> <5moores@> wrote:
> >
> > I have wigglers. =)
> >
> > My quarantine tank is occupied or I would move the leaf to which
> they
> > are attached and attempt to raise them there. =(
> > That stinks. About 1/2 the eggs are still there, the parents have
> > picked off the rest. They are picking them off as we speak. They
> eat
> > the wigglers?
> > They are so cute! And you can a tiny dark dot in each egg now.
> > I really wish I had been prepared for this.
> >
> > If I were to move them, would a sponge of the filter intake be
> > sufficient so as not to have them sucked in? I have a spare 10
gal
> but
> > I don't think I have another heater (all 7 of them are being
> used.) I
> > have a 30 gallon filter which I would think would be too much for
> the
> > fry. ?
> >
> > Grrrr...
> >
> > L
> >
> > <http://groups.
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 9:25 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Leslie, Looks like that fish store was an unexpected but pleasant
> > find. Sounds like that's a place to definitely check out next
time
> > you're down that way. Nice to see you found some plants there to
> > your liking.
> >
> > When it comes to angels, you have read right; they often eat the
> eggs
> > within a day or so, and then the behavior may continue for any
> number
> > of future spawns -- no telling when or if they will settle down
to
> > raise them. On the other hand, they may just raise them from the
> > first time on (no guarantees there, though). If you want to be
> > assured that you will have fry to raise, the best thing is to
> remove
> > the eggs to a separate tank of their own, with clean water (no
> gravel
> > on bottom), with some Acriflavin or Methylene Blue added to
prevent
> > fungus. Some hobbyists use a gallon jar for hatching since the
> water
> > will turn either green or blue (from the fungus remedy) and is
more
> > convenient to have just in the hatching tank rather than in the
> > rearing tank, where a much larger quantity of water would have to
> be
> > changed out (to remove the coloration).
> >
> > If you're inclined to hatch them yourself, the leaf (I think you
> said
> > they used a leaf) will have to be weighted down, maybe by the
stem,
> > and a small airstone placed next to it. The temperature should be
> as
> > close to 80o as possible in both the hatching container and the
> > rearing tank. They will hatch in 3 days (still will egg sacks on
> > them) and will remain as wigglers. Then, they will start free-
> > swimming after another 4 days, at which time they will be looking
> to
> > eat -- don't feed them before this time.
> >
> > One day before they start swimming, you should start a hatch of
BBS
> > (baby brine shrimp); this takes about 24 hours at 80o, so should
be
> > ready for feeding as the angel fry start swimming. There are
> > numerous ways to hatch brine shrimp, from buying a hatcher to
using
> a
> > gallon jar or inverted 2 liter bottle with the bottom cut out.
They
> > hatch in water using 6 Tablespoons of salt per gallon (using
about
> > 1/4 teaspoon of shrimp eggs -- available at your LFS), with an
> > airstone at the bottom. This should give you enough shrimp for
two
> > to three feedings for the day. To harvest them, remove or shut
off
> > the air stone and let the newly hatched baby brine shrimp settle
to
> > the bottom where they can be drawn off through a muslin or cotton
> > handkerchief supported over the opening of a gallon jar. A new
> hatch
> > of BBS will have to be set up each day to ensure a steady supply
of
> > food for the fry. They can be raised on a good powdered food, but
> > not as successfully, although its better than nothing if you
can't
> do
> > the BBS. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> > <5moores@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ray,
> > >
> > > The drive was pleasantly uneventful, thank you.
> > >
> > > I went there to visit family, the fish store was a great bonus.
I
> > was
> > > actually on my way to another store when I saw it. I pulled in
and
> > > spent almost 2 hours in there then went in again Sunday to buy
the
> > > things I had picked out the day before.
> > > They said they were "low" on pants since this was not the
buying
> > season.
> > > I can't wait to go in when they have their normal stock. It
will
> be
> > > good timing since that will give my plants time to spread out
and
> do
> > > what it is they are going to do given their tank conditions. I
> > don't
> > > want to add much more until I see what will happen with
> everything I
> > > already have.
> > >
> > > I'm not really expecting the eggs to hatch since most of what I
> have
> > > read has mentioned that first time angel parents will usually
eat
> > them
> > > within a day or so. The eggs are still here this morning and
being
> > > cautiously guarded by their parents, so that's a good sign that
> > maybe
> > > they have a good instinct going into this.
> > > I won't know what to do if they do hatch so if you would like
to
> > throw
> > > some words of wisdom my way they will be welcomed.
> > >
> > > Leslie
> > > <http://groups.
> > <http://groups.
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> > yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > > Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:12 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I'm back and sooo happy!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Leslie, Hope you had a pleasant drive; that was a long one. Was
> > that
> > > drive just for getting to "That Fish Place"? If so, I hope it
was
> > > worthwhile -- it appears as if it may have been. Glad to see
your
> > > angels have laid eggs. Let us know if and when you need help
with
> > > them. Ray
> > >
> > > P.S.: There's a "That Fish Place" here in the Northeast, in
> > > Pennsylvania which is always well stocked with both plants and
> fish.
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane Moore"
> > > <5moores@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I went to Fort Worth this past weekend and happened upon a
fish
> > store
> > > > called "That Fish Place." I fell in love.
> > > > They had tons of plants I have had a hard time finding as
well
> as
> > > fish.
> > > > I drove back home, a 5 hour drive, with loads of plants and 5
> > fish.
> > > >
> > > > What I am most thrilled about is that I came home to see that
> my
> > two
> > > > blue(ish) freshwater angels have LAID EGGS! They are on a
leaf
> of
> > a
> > > > large Amazon sword. I am absolutely stoked that they are a
> > pair!!!!
> > > >
> > > > Leslie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19755 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
Plant books are not accurate and are usually place specific... As in gardening and house plants... You'd have to get an aquarium book... My husband works with plants...

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums



----- Original Message ----
From: hank voss <aatetras@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 1:06:24 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: aglaonema

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Rodrigo Jr. Marquez"
<la_rmarquezjr@ ...> wrote:
> ============ ========= ======
Rod:
Thats exactly what im finding out i dug out my big plant book
and it has 20 varieties of the plant Aglaoema, "Silver Queen" is
listed as a Florida Hybrid.My book has 1100 pages of plants and
covers just about all plants you can find and they all are listed as
bog or ter. plants.They will live submerged for a while but their
whole life.
Regards Hank

> Correct me if I'm wrong but I beg to differ in opinion with
regards to Spathiphyllum commutatum cv Silver Queen. It's not
totally aquatic: the stem and roots can grow in water but the leaves
will drown if submersed. It's at the most a marginal and bog plant
but it's parent variety is found in the wild in moist not wet soil.
It can also thrive in drier conditions. As far as I know, there are
no aglaonema species that are truly aquatic in the sense that it
will grow and thrive fully underwater for an indefinite period of
time. Another species passed of as totally aquatic is Aglaonema
modestum.
>
> Rod
>
> FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ ...> wrote:
> They only usually label 5 species in plant books due to
them being the most common household varieties... Silver Queens are
completely aquatic... They actually have to harvest them from the
water
>
>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19756 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
They are not attatched. What do you feed bristle worms if that's what they
are.

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19757 From: hank voss Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
wrote:
>
> Plant books are not accurate and are usually place specific... As
in gardening and house plants... You'd have to get an aquarium
book... My husband works with plants...
>
> Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums
> ========================
> I have many books on aquatic and terr. plants and still can not
find an truly aquatic one.Ive aquired a lot of material over the
last 60 yrs.If there are truely aquatic aglaoemas (not bog plants)I
want to know you got my curiosity up.Tell your husband to get the
names of the plants for me (LATIN NAMES) not common names since they
change from state to state.Its impossible to reference things with
common names.Thank you will wait for your reply.
> Regards Hank

>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19758 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
You don't feed bristle worms... You get rid of them

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums



----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 12:26:19 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

They are not attatched. What do you feed bristle worms if that's what they
are.

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19759 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
That depends... Those could be bristle worms... In which case they're not a good thing...

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums



----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 9:06:05 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

I have started a science project with a 2 gallon tank and 1 piece of live
rock. It is all going well. I am learning my ways about reef keeping very
slowly. What are the little worms I see living in this rock? Should I be feeding
them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19760 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Carol if they are bristle worm they are not a real good thing to have if you happen to to get stuck by one it itches and even can burn for hours. If you did want to keep them they will eat almost anything. They are normally a big pain

Morganawolf1@... wrote: They are not attatched. What do you feed bristle worms if that's what they
are.

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19761 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: aglaonema
I called the fish store that I purchased my plant from and the owner was
not at all aware of it not being aquatic. I sort of tested her by
asking her a few questions on other plants they have in the store that
were "more of a terrarium plant" and she was very knowledgeable and
truthful about each of them not being true aquarium plants. So I really
think had she known this plant was more of a houseplant and possibly
poisonous to boot, she would have told me.

She did become concerned and said she would contact the plant dealer and
look into it herself so that's good.
She also said that they have many regular customers that also purchased
this plant and all have had good things to say about it. She could only
remember selling them for last 2 months though so there is no long term
feedback available.

Thank you SO much for all the help with this and I will continue to read
any future postings on it. This is one of those things where only time
will tell and that is IF I decide to leave it in the water.

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 12:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: aglaonema



--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
wrote:
>
> Plant books are not accurate and are usually place specific... As
in gardening and house plants... You'd have to get an aquarium
book... My husband works with plants...
>
> Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums
> ========================
> I have many books on aquatic and terr. plants and still can not
find an truly aquatic one.Ive aquired a lot of material over the
last 60 yrs.If there are truely aquatic aglaoemas (not bog plants)I
want to know you got my curiosity up.Tell your husband to get the
names of the plants for me (LATIN NAMES) not common names since they
change from state to state.Its impossible to reference things with
common names.Thank you will wait for your reply.
> Regards Hank

>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19762 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Sorry Karen I called you Carol in another Email

FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...> wrote: That depends... Those could be bristle worms... In which case they're not a good thing...

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 9:06:05 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

I have started a science project with a 2 gallon tank and 1 piece of live
rock. It is all going well. I am learning my ways about reef keeping very
slowly. What are the little worms I see living in this rock? Should I be feeding
them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - $150,000 loan for $579 a month. Intro-*Terms

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19763 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19764 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
you can get a brisle worm trap or you can just use a nylon and put some frozen food in it or even a frozen shrimp what will happen is the bristle work will get stuck to the nylon and not beable to get away just becareful when removing the nylon with the worm attached

Morganawolf1@... wrote: OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Sponsored Link

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19765 From: raliegh11 Date: 11/15/2006
Subject: Salinity Meter
Hey All.

I posted this awhile back, but I still have a bunch of these meters
left over. They are super easy to use. They come calibrated from the
factory. Ready to use out of the box.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i120/pricetank/Meter006.jpg

Selling for $60 shipped (will send out day of purchase).
Usually sells for $100+ on other sites. If you research it, you will
see this is a good deal for a great product.

Product Information:

1) Specific Gravity / Salinity (ppt) / Temperature (Fahrenheit)
2) Electric Conductivity Measurement system
3) Specific Gravity range (1.000 - 1.030 S.G.), accuracy +-0.002 S.G.
4) Tempurature range (0 - 70C) (32F - 158F) accuracy +- 1degrees
5) Salinity range (5 to 50pp 0 - 40Ct) accuracy +- 2ppt
6) Display: 37x12mm LCD with bar
7) Battery: LR44 or LR1154 x 3pc (included)
8) Size: (L x W x H): 0.65" x 10" x 1.25"

The unit come with 3 extra batteries and CALIBURATION solution.
Everything you need to successfully test your water parameters

Can take payment via PayPal. Email me with any questions.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19766 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/16/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Arrow crabs eat them... Brittle stars eat them... I have found that young bristle worms do not stick to nylon being their hairs are way too fine... However... You can buy plans to a traps that I have found actually does work on eBay

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums



----- Original Message ----
From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:21:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

you can get a brisle worm trap or you can just use a nylon and put some frozen food in it or even a frozen shrimp what will happen is the bristle work will get stuck to the nylon and not beable to get away just becareful when removing the nylon with the worm attached

Morganawolf1@ aol.com wrote: OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ---
Sponsored Link

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19767 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/16/2006
Subject: Nitrates are low
My nitrates are down to 5 in my planted tanks. (I'm a little surprised
they are this low already. They were normally around 30-40.) At what
point should I begin to supplement and what do I use to do that?
I have Flourish, both the regular and trace. Will one of those be
needed?

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19768 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/16/2006
Subject: Re: Nitrates are low
I'd probably not supplement until the nitrates are down to 0 on a
consistent basis, or the condition of the plants indicate that the
plants are missing something. If you have supplements that do not
contain nitrogenous products, you can probably start adding a minimal
amount and increase as necessary.

This is not gospel. I am just saying that if this was my situation, this
is what I would do.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 4:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Nitrates are low

My nitrates are down to 5 in my planted tanks. (I'm a little surprised
they are this low already. They were normally around 30-40.) At what
point should I begin to supplement and what do I use to do that?
I have Flourish, both the regular and trace. Will one of those be
needed?

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19769 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/16/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
What is it that makes them so dangerous?


----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 1:49:45 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

You don't feed bristle worms... You get rid of them

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@ aol.com" <Morganawolf1@ aol.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 12:26:19 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

They are not attatched. What do you feed bristle worms if that's what they
are.

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19770 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/16/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
I saw a trap at my LFS


----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 3:37:26 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Arrow crabs eat them... Brittle stars eat them... I have found that young bristle worms do not stick to nylon being their hairs are way too fine... However... You can buy plans to a traps that I have found actually does work on eBay

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:21:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

you can get a brisle worm trap or you can just use a nylon and put some frozen food in it or even a frozen shrimp what will happen is the bristle work will get stuck to the nylon and not beable to get away just becareful when removing the nylon with the worm attached

Morganawolf1@ aol.com wrote: OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ---
Sponsored Link

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19771 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
#1. They eat everything in you aquarium... If they run out of rot they will start eating you live rock... #2. They are poisonous so it makes it a really tricky task to do anything with your liverock
The "bristles" I little poisonous dart like things that in some cases can cause burning and itching when you touch them but there have been documented cases of certain bristle worms sending people to the hospital...

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs



----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 1:44:33 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

I saw a trap at my LFS

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 3:37:26 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Arrow crabs eat them... Brittle stars eat them... I have found that young bristle worms do not stick to nylon being their hairs are way too fine... However... You can buy plans to a traps that I have found actually does work on eBay

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:21:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

you can get a brisle worm trap or you can just use a nylon and put some frozen food in it or even a frozen shrimp what will happen is the bristle work will get stuck to the nylon and not beable to get away just becareful when removing the nylon with the worm attached

Morganawolf1@ aol.com wrote: OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ---
Sponsored Link

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Compare mortgage rates for today.
Get up to 5 free quotes.
Www2.nextag. com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19772 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Next week i am getting a banded coral shrimp. Hopefully, they will take care
of this problem.

Harvest wishes
Karen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19773 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Saltwater Tank Setup
I was wondering if anyone here has used Bio-Spira Marine for setting up a
saltwater tank? I have used the freshwater version with lots of success and
was curious about the marine variety. Thanks in advance for yall's replies



-Steve



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19774 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank Setup
They both work well used them on my 150 fresh water and on my 120 saltwater and have had no issues since using in either

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: I was wondering if anyone here has used Bio-Spira Marine for setting up a
saltwater tank? I have used the freshwater version with lots of success and
was curious about the marine variety. Thanks in advance for yall's replies

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19775 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Well that is good to know thank you. Love your tanks. What is a pest starfish? The reason why I asked about the bristle worms because I came across someone selling them online. Plus I heard they would stir your sand. Which you would want so was a little confussed on it. Thanks again.


----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 11:39:31 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

#1. They eat everything in you aquarium... If they run out of rot they will start eating you live rock... #2. They are poisonous so it makes it a really tricky task to do anything with your liverock
The "bristles" I little poisonous dart like things that in some cases can cause burning and itching when you touch them but there have been documented cases of certain bristle worms sending people to the hospital...

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@yahoo. com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 1:44:33 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

I saw a trap at my LFS

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 3:37:26 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Arrow crabs eat them... Brittle stars eat them... I have found that young bristle worms do not stick to nylon being their hairs are way too fine... However... You can buy plans to a traps that I have found actually does work on eBay

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:21:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

you can get a brisle worm trap or you can just use a nylon and put some frozen food in it or even a frozen shrimp what will happen is the bristle work will get stuck to the nylon and not beable to get away just becareful when removing the nylon with the worm attached

Morganawolf1@ aol.com wrote: OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ---
Sponsored Link

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

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Get up to 5 free quotes.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link

Compare mortgage rates for today.
Get up to 5 free quotes.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19776 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 11/17/2006
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank Setup
Ok, I'll admit that I'm toying around with the idea of a 50 gallon breeder
SW Tank. Got a couple of questions since I have a local supplier of both
types of Bio-Spira now (woohoo!)



First would be filtration. Is a filter needed since live rock provides the
biological filtration and if so, do I need both a traditional filter and a
protein skimmer or just the skimmer? If both are recommended, could I get
away with the emperor hob that I have boxed in the closet and what media
would be recommended for it?



2nd would be when it comes to stocking, do I have to worry about crabs and
other inverts being escape artists or is this a concern with SW inverts
(i.e. shrimps, hermits, and maybe a starfish)



Thanks in advance for the replies. I'll go back to drooling and reading and
plotting.



-Steve





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Chad Plum
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 12:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: {Disarmed} Re: [AquaticLife] Saltwater Tank Setup



They both work well used them on my 150 fresh water and on my 120 saltwater
and have had no issues since using in either

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@ <mailto:dragon.hunter%40dragons-realm.net>
dragons-realm.net> wrote: I was wondering if anyone here has used Bio-Spira
Marine for setting up a
saltwater tank? I have used the freshwater version with lots of success and
was curious about the marine variety. Thanks in advance for yall's replies

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19777 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank Setup
While live rock may provide biological filtration, it does not provide
any mechanical filtration. A traditional filter will provide for the
mechanical filtration--removing particulate matter from the water
column, and it will also serve to provide some biological filtration as
well. A protein skimmer (foam fractionators) will remove Dissolved
Organic Carbons (DOC) from the water column.

I suggest that you do more reading about the setup and maintenance of a
marine aquaria prior to diving into doing it. Live rock is not suitable
for al types of marine aquaria. If live rock is not suitable for what
you eventually want to do with the tank, you will need to provide for
the biological filtration that live rock would provide. Do you really
need a protein skimmer? I've seen tanks successfully maintained without
them.

So, do your research, and be sure about what you are doing before you
start. You are making a much heftier investment here than in a similar
sized freshwater tank, and I'm sure you don't want to be throwing you
money away while you are doing it.

Also, please note that I am not a marine person. I do freshwater, and
have done some brackish water as well. The above comments come from
years of reading, and at least skimming marine articles in the popular
literature to determine if any of the work marine people are (were)
doing would be applicable to the freshwater side of the hobby.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 4:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Saltwater Tank Setup



Ok, I'll admit that I'm toying around with the idea of a 50 gallon
breeder
SW Tank. Got a couple of questions since I have a local supplier of
both
types of Bio-Spira now (woohoo!)



First would be filtration. Is a filter needed since live rock provides
the
biological filtration and if so, do I need both a traditional filter and
a
protein skimmer or just the skimmer? If both are recommended, could I
get
away with the emperor hob that I have boxed in the closet and what media
would be recommended for it?



2nd would be when it comes to stocking, do I have to worry about crabs
and
other inverts being escape artists or is this a concern with SW inverts
(i.e. shrimps, hermits, and maybe a starfish)



Thanks in advance for the replies. I'll go back to drooling and reading
and
plotting.



-Steve





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Chad Plum
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 12:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: {Disarmed} Re: [AquaticLife] Saltwater Tank Setup



They both work well used them on my 150 fresh water and on my 120
saltwater
and have had no issues since using in either

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@
<mailto:dragon.hunter%40dragons-realm.net>
dragons-realm.net> wrote: I was wondering if anyone here has used
Bio-Spira
Marine for setting up a
saltwater tank? I have used the freshwater version with lots of success
and
was curious about the marine variety. Thanks in advance for yall's
replies

-Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19778 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Pest stars are little starfish that don't get over 1/4 to 1/2 inch big... They are constantly reproducing and you get get them for free at most saltwater aquarium stores due to the sellers not wanting them... We paid 10 cents a piece for ours... Not suggested if you have corals and anemones... Some people do sell bristle worms because when kept under control they do help clean up your tanks... The fact of the matter is keeping them under control is something that takes more time than most of us have... It's a constant battle... They reproduce too quickly and there's no real sure fire way to get rid of them completely once you have them... Some things work for people... Others don't...

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: Well that is good to know thank you. Love your tanks. What is a pest starfish? The reason why I asked about the bristle worms because I came across someone selling them online. Plus I heard they would stir your sand. Which you would want so was a little confussed on it. Thanks again.

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 11:39:31 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

#1. They eat everything in you aquarium... If they run out of rot they will start eating you live rock... #2. They are poisonous so it makes it a really tricky task to do anything with your liverock
The "bristles" I little poisonous dart like things that in some cases can cause burning and itching when you touch them but there have been documented cases of certain bristle worms sending people to the hospital...

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@yahoo. com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 1:44:33 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

I saw a trap at my LFS

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 3:37:26 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Arrow crabs eat them... Brittle stars eat them... I have found that young bristle worms do not stick to nylon being their hairs are way too fine... However... You can buy plans to a traps that I have found actually does work on eBay

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:21:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

you can get a brisle worm trap or you can just use a nylon and put some frozen food in it or even a frozen shrimp what will happen is the bristle work will get stuck to the nylon and not beable to get away just becareful when removing the nylon with the worm attached

Morganawolf1@ aol.com wrote: OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ---
Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. $510,000 Mortgage for $1,698/mo - Calculate new house payment

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Compare mortgage rates for today.
Get up to 5 free quotes.
Www2.nextag. com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

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$420k for $1,399/mo. Calculate new payment!
www.LowerMyBills. com/lre

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link

Compare mortgage rates for today.
Get up to 5 free quotes.
Www2.nextag.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






My Aquariums
29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs



---------------------------------
Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. $420,000 Mortgage for $1,399/mo - Calculate new house payment

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19779 From: fyyr.rm Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Platys and Cherry barbs
Can platys and cherry barbs live together?
I've just adopted some platys that were destined for the toilet...
nothing wrong with them the owner's mom just didn't want fish anymore.
I have 6 cherry barbs already in my tank and I now have 4 platys in a
bag... what can I do with them? Is this ok short term?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19780 From: Rob Renfro Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: Platys and Cherry barbs
The cherry Barbs might pick and nip at them but again they might make good tankmates.

Release the fish and see..... most everything in this hobby is trial and error and what works for one might not work for all..

Good luck..

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
www.ftas.net


=====================
From: "fyyr.rm" <fyyr@...>
Date: 2006/11/18 Sat PM 03:09:41 CST
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Platys and Cherry barbs


Can platys and cherry barbs live together?
I've just adopted some platys that were destined for the toilet...
nothing wrong with them the owner's mom just didn't want fish anymore.
I have 6 cherry barbs already in my tank and I now have 4 platys in a
bag... what can I do with them? Is this ok short term?


Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board Of Directors
http://ftas.net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19781 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: Platys and Cherry barbs
Well I released them with my panda cory doras
instead... they are a little overstocked but it is
just temporary - my cherry barbs are spawning and I
don't want to mess that up at the moment, and I just
noticed that the platys are pregnant (at least 2 of
them are pregnant and I'm pretty sure one is a male
and the other is a female- oh boy). They will be
going to their own 10g probably tomorrow. (I got the
previous owners 5g of cycled water, fixed a leaky 10g,
and have added 5g of aged water... want to wait to see
how it tests tomorrow - today was good)

--- Rob Renfro <fortwaynefish@...> wrote:

> The cherry Barbs might pick and nip at them but
> again they might make good tankmates.
>
> Release the fish and see..... most everything in
> this hobby is trial and error and what works for one
> might not work for all..
>
> Good luck..
>
> Rob Renfro
> Ft Wayne, Indiana
> www.ftas.net




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19782 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: white stuff????
I am not sure if I am supposed to, but here are two photos of some white stuff that has recently invaded my aquarium. it is a 55 gallon, going strong for 5 years. I have no idea what this stuff is, I scraped it off the glass last week (easily) and has now returned big time. Water change tomorrow, but what is it? Is it dangerous to my fish? It almost looks like the slimly algae we all get, but as you can see from the photos, it is in clumps and is getting on my plants and rocks! HELP!!! It is not worms or anything like that.........

Cynthia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19783 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: white stuff????
You'll need to add the photos to an album in the photo section of the
group homepage. Then post again telling where it is that you have
placed the pictures.
=)
L
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 6:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] white stuff????



I am not sure if I am supposed to, but here are two photos of some white
stuff that has recently invaded my aquarium. it is a 55 gallon, going
strong for 5 years. I have no idea what this stuff is, I scraped it off
the glass last week (easily) and has now returned big time. Water change
tomorrow, but what is it? Is it dangerous to my fish? It almost looks
like the slimly algae we all get, but as you can see from the photos, it
is in clumps and is getting on my plants and rocks! HELP!!! It is not
worms or anything like that.........

Cynthia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19784 From: semih ovat Date: 11/18/2006
Subject: Re: Platys and Cherry barbs
In my tank , 5 cherry barb and 3 hi fin wag tail platy live together without
any problem .



Semih Ovat



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rob Renfro
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 11:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Platys and Cherry barbs



The cherry Barbs might pick and nip at them but again they might make good
tankmates.

Release the fish and see..... most everything in this hobby is trial and
error and what works for one might not work for all..

Good luck..

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
www.ftas.net

=====================
From: "fyyr.rm" <fyyr@rocketmail. <mailto:fyyr%40rocketmail.com> com>
Date: 2006/11/18 Sat PM 03:09:41 CST
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Platys and Cherry barbs

Can platys and cherry barbs live together?
I've just adopted some platys that were destined for the toilet...
nothing wrong with them the owner's mom just didn't want fish anymore.
I have 6 cherry barbs already in my tank and I now have 4 platys in a
bag... what can I do with them? Is this ok short term?

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board Of Directors
http://ftas. <http://ftas.net> net





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19785 From: Leslie Date: 11/19/2006
Subject: White stuff on the mouth
I've been treating for "mouth fungus" for two weeks now. First w/
tetracycline for 5 days and that had minimal to moderate results.
Then with Jungles Fungus Clear and that helped to clear a little more
of the fungus, but not all. So another treatment of jungles fungus
clear was done with absolutely no results.

I added 3 healthy rainbows to the big tank but this morning each one
is again showing white stuff on their mouths. However it is not white
and cottony but more like skin hanging losely and going over the top lip.

I had added melafix to the hospital tank for 3 days prior to releasing
these three.

Any ideas on what this is and how to treat? I'm fresh out of guesses.

I tried to post a photo under 130 Fresh, but the rainbows are not the
most calm fish so it was hard to get a good picture. You can however
see something white overlapping the upper lip.

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19786 From: thedakotawinds Date: 11/19/2006
Subject: Gold honey dwarf gourami
Hi all,

I have two beautiful honey dwarf gouramis, (males) that I would like
to exchange for "females" if anyone has any? These are gold honey
dwarf gouramis and they are beautiful.

So if anyone is interested, do let me know, when I purchased them I
got all males as that I guess it is all they had and of course that
did not please me much.

If interested in a exchange, please write me off list:
AquaticElf@...

Thanks much,

Ivan
South Dakota
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19787 From: WILLIAM E CARLSON Date: 11/19/2006
Subject: Re: Gold honey dwarf gourami
From what I hear from LFS and people that are importing fish from the Far East, they are not exporting the female gouramies either because they aren't as pretty or to protect themselves from competition. The only females I have heard about came in shipments by mistake. ----- Original Message -----
From: thedakotawinds<mailto:AquaticElf@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com<mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 11:10 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gold honey dwarf gourami


Hi all,

I have two beautiful honey dwarf gouramis, (males) that I would like
to exchange for "females" if anyone has any? These are gold honey
dwarf gouramis and they are beautiful.

So if anyone is interested, do let me know, when I purchased them I
got all males as that I guess it is all they had and of course that
did not please me much.

If interested in a exchange, please write me off list:
AquaticElf@...<mailto:AquaticElf%40abe.midco.net>

Thanks much,

Ivan
South Dakota





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19789 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/19/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
Well I have seen lots of micro brittle stars on sale. Then there is the micro star thats all white. Am I correct on that?


----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 12:39:20 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Pest stars are little starfish that don't get over 1/4 to 1/2 inch big... They are constantly reproducing and you get get them for free at most saltwater aquarium stores due to the sellers not wanting them... We paid 10 cents a piece for ours... Not suggested if you have corals and anemones... Some people do sell bristle worms because when kept under control they do help clean up your tanks... The fact of the matter is keeping them under control is something that takes more time than most of us have... It's a constant battle... They reproduce too quickly and there's no real sure fire way to get rid of them completely once you have them... Some things work for people... Others don't...

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@yahoo. com> wrote: Well that is good to know thank you. Love your tanks. What is a pest starfish? The reason why I asked about the bristle worms because I came across someone selling them online. Plus I heard they would stir your sand. Which you would want so was a little confussed on it. Thanks again.

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 11:39:31 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

#1. They eat everything in you aquarium... If they run out of rot they will start eating you live rock... #2. They are poisonous so it makes it a really tricky task to do anything with your liverock
The "bristles" I little poisonous dart like things that in some cases can cause burning and itching when you touch them but there have been documented cases of certain bristle worms sending people to the hospital...

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ yahoo. com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 1:44:33 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

I saw a trap at my LFS

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 3:37:26 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Arrow crabs eat them... Brittle stars eat them... I have found that young bristle worms do not stick to nylon being their hairs are way too fine... However... You can buy plans to a traps that I have found actually does work on eBay

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:21:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

you can get a brisle worm trap or you can just use a nylon and put some frozen food in it or even a frozen shrimp what will happen is the bristle work will get stuck to the nylon and not beable to get away just becareful when removing the nylon with the worm attached

Morganawolf1@ aol.com wrote: OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ---
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Mortgage rates near 39yr lows.
$420k for $1,399/mo. Calculate new payment!
www.LowerMyBills. com/lre

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Compare mortgage rates for today.
Get up to 5 free quotes.
Www2.nextag. com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My Aquariums
29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

------------ --------- --------- ---
Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. $420,000 Mortgage for $1,399/mo - Calculate new house payment

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link

Online degrees - find the right program to advance your career.
Www.nextag.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19790 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/19/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
These are the plain micro stars... Fish Stores call them pest stars because they reproduce like snails do in freshwater aquariums

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs



----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 11:51:42 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Well I have seen lots of micro brittle stars on sale. Then there is the micro star thats all white. Am I correct on that?

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 12:39:20 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Pest stars are little starfish that don't get over 1/4 to 1/2 inch big... They are constantly reproducing and you get get them for free at most saltwater aquarium stores due to the sellers not wanting them... We paid 10 cents a piece for ours... Not suggested if you have corals and anemones... Some people do sell bristle worms because when kept under control they do help clean up your tanks... The fact of the matter is keeping them under control is something that takes more time than most of us have... It's a constant battle... They reproduce too quickly and there's no real sure fire way to get rid of them completely once you have them... Some things work for people... Others don't...

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ yahoo. com> wrote: Well that is good to know thank you. Love your tanks. What is a pest starfish? The reason why I asked about the bristle worms because I came across someone selling them online. Plus I heard they would stir your sand. Which you would want so was a little confussed on it. Thanks again.

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 11:39:31 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

#1. They eat everything in you aquarium... If they run out of rot they will start eating you live rock... #2. They are poisonous so it makes it a really tricky task to do anything with your liverock
The "bristles" I little poisonous dart like things that in some cases can cause burning and itching when you touch them but there have been documented cases of certain bristle worms sending people to the hospital...

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ yahoo. com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 1:44:33 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

I saw a trap at my LFS

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 3:37:26 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Arrow crabs eat them... Brittle stars eat them... I have found that young bristle worms do not stick to nylon being their hairs are way too fine... However... You can buy plans to a traps that I have found actually does work on eBay

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:21:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

you can get a brisle worm trap or you can just use a nylon and put some frozen food in it or even a frozen shrimp what will happen is the bristle work will get stuck to the nylon and not beable to get away just becareful when removing the nylon with the worm attached

Morganawolf1@ aol.com wrote: OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ---
Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. $510,000 Mortgage for $1,698/mo - Calculate new house payment

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Compare mortgage rates for today.
Get up to 5 free quotes.
Www2.nextag. com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows.
$420k for $1,399/mo. Calculate new payment!
www.LowerMyBills. com/lre

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Compare mortgage rates for today.
Get up to 5 free quotes.
Www2.nextag. com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My Aquariums
29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

------------ --------- --------- ---
Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. $420,000 Mortgage for $1,399/mo - Calculate new house payment

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Online degrees - find the right program to advance your career.
Www.nextag.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19791 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
are these them?
http://img.inkfrog.com/click_enlarge1.php?image=micros1.jpg&username=Nadsark


----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:31:53 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

These are the plain micro stars... Fish Stores call them pest stars because they reproduce like snails do in freshwater aquariums

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@yahoo. com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 11:51:42 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Well I have seen lots of micro brittle stars on sale. Then there is the micro star thats all white. Am I correct on that?

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 12:39:20 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Pest stars are little starfish that don't get over 1/4 to 1/2 inch big... They are constantly reproducing and you get get them for free at most saltwater aquarium stores due to the sellers not wanting them... We paid 10 cents a piece for ours... Not suggested if you have corals and anemones... Some people do sell bristle worms because when kept under control they do help clean up your tanks... The fact of the matter is keeping them under control is something that takes more time than most of us have... It's a constant battle... They reproduce too quickly and there's no real sure fire way to get rid of them completely once you have them... Some things work for people... Others don't...

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ yahoo. com> wrote: Well that is good to know thank you. Love your tanks. What is a pest starfish? The reason why I asked about the bristle worms because I came across someone selling them online. Plus I heard they would stir your sand. Which you would want so was a little confussed on it. Thanks again.

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 11:39:31 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

#1. They eat everything in you aquarium... If they run out of rot they will start eating you live rock... #2. They are poisonous so it makes it a really tricky task to do anything with your liverock
The "bristles" I little poisonous dart like things that in some cases can cause burning and itching when you touch them but there have been documented cases of certain bristle worms sending people to the hospital...

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ yahoo. com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 1:44:33 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

I saw a trap at my LFS

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 3:37:26 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Arrow crabs eat them... Brittle stars eat them... I have found that young bristle worms do not stick to nylon being their hairs are way too fine... However... You can buy plans to a traps that I have found actually does work on eBay

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:21:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

you can get a brisle worm trap or you can just use a nylon and put some frozen food in it or even a frozen shrimp what will happen is the bristle work will get stuck to the nylon and not beable to get away just becareful when removing the nylon with the worm attached

Morganawolf1@ aol.com wrote: OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ---
Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. $510,000 Mortgage for $1,698/mo - Calculate new house payment

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Compare mortgage rates for today.
Get up to 5 free quotes.
Www2.nextag. com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows.
$420k for $1,399/mo. Calculate new payment!
www.LowerMyBills. com/lre

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Compare mortgage rates for today.
Get up to 5 free quotes.
Www2.nextag. com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My Aquariums
29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

------------ --------- --------- ---
Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. $420,000 Mortgage for $1,399/mo - Calculate new house payment

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Sponsored Link

Online degrees - find the right program to advance your career.
Www.nextag.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows.
$510k for $1,698/mo. Calculate new payment!
www.LowerMyBills.com/lre

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19792 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Angel Fry
Out of the few eggs/wigglers that I removed from the parents, 2 have
survived.
There were only about 20 eggs of which 75% of those produced wigglers.
The more they wiggled, they would fall off the leaf and I I didn't see
them again.
Apparently 2 made it though as they are swimming around seeming pretty
content in the little 3 gallon tank they are in.

I have been adding frozen baby brine shrimp. How often should I give
them this? It makes a mess and I am not certain they are eating it.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19793 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: Angel Fry
The 15 or so wigglers should have all started swimming some 3 1/2
days after hatching (depending upon the temperature). They will fall
off onto the bottom, then when they are ready, they will all start
swimming. If you have gravel as a top layer of your substrate, they
may have gotten trapped and/or fell down further between the granuals
rather than just fell between the top-most grains. A bare bottom is
always preferred when raising angels away from the parents.

As 2 fry will not eat very much, its very easy to overfeed them. You
need to be careful about how much frozen BBS you feed them, yet still
have enough circulating through the water that they don't have
difficulty in finding it. Be sure to clean off the bottom with a
turkey baster and replace with fresh water at least every other day
(about 1/2 gallon). For best growth, they should be fed at least 3
times a day, making sure you have a small airstone in the tank to
keep the food suspended. Two fry may not be very many, but this will
give you some experience in raising them, if nothing else. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> Out of the few eggs/wigglers that I removed from the parents, 2 have
> survived.
> There were only about 20 eggs of which 75% of those produced
wigglers.
> The more they wiggled, they would fall off the leaf and I I didn't
see
> them again.
> Apparently 2 made it though as they are swimming around seeming
pretty
> content in the little 3 gallon tank they are in.
>
> I have been adding frozen baby brine shrimp. How often should I
give
> them this? It makes a mess and I am not certain they are eating it.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19794 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: Angel Fry
Odds are, the reason the parents were eating the eggs was because most
were not viable. Grats on the two that survived, though!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19795 From: Jennifer Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Hello all
He everyone,

It has been awhile since I have posted to the group! As you where all
aware my hubby and the rest of us where enroute to Portland Oregon.
Well, his company decided to restructure and now well we are back here
in Richmond VA!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19796 From: danielkaudern Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: White stuff on the mouth
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I've been treating for "mouth fungus" for two weeks now. First w/
> tetracycline for 5 days and that had minimal to moderate results.
> Then with Jungles Fungus Clear and that helped to clear a little
more
> of the fungus, but not all. So another treatment of jungles fungus
> clear was done with absolutely no results.
>
> I added 3 healthy rainbows to the big tank but this morning each one
> is again showing white stuff on their mouths. However it is not
white
> and cottony but more like skin hanging losely and going over the
top lip.
>
> I had added melafix to the hospital tank for 3 days prior to
releasing
> these three.
>
> Any ideas on what this is and how to treat? I'm fresh out of
guesses.
>
> I tried to post a photo under 130 Fresh, but the rainbows are not
the
> most calm fish so it was hard to get a good picture. You can
however
> see something white overlapping the upper lip.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
Hi Leslie,

I had the same problem, perhaps to a lesser degree. Have you tested
your nitrates? They should be kept at 20 parts per million or less.
In my tank the fungus cleared up on its own when the immune system of
the fishes was restored.

Daniel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19797 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: White stuff on the mouth
I haven't checked for nitrates in the hospital tank. I guess because I
do frequent water changes I didn't think it would be needed. Plus my
nitrates have rarely ever hit over 20. Just as soon as I take that for
granted...ugh. Haha.
I'll check them and see.

I'm about to add the 3 rainbows back into the hospital tank and begin
yet another round of tetracycline. I have had carbon running since
yesterday afternoon and I did a 25% water change.

I'm leaving for Thanksgiving vacation Wed. so a friend will be
administering the meds for me for three days. (I am SO thankful that I
have a fish junkie as a close friend!)

I bought these fish from Wal-Mart so it would not at all surprise me if
their immune system is down. I would hope though by this time it would
be better though. I have had them in my possession now for about 2 1/2
weeks.

Thanks,
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of danielkaudern
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 6:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: White stuff on the mouth



--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> I've been treating for "mouth fungus" for two weeks now. First w/
> tetracycline for 5 days and that had minimal to moderate results.
> Then with Jungles Fungus Clear and that helped to clear a little
more
> of the fungus, but not all. So another treatment of jungles fungus
> clear was done with absolutely no results.
>
> I added 3 healthy rainbows to the big tank but this morning each one
> is again showing white stuff on their mouths. However it is not
white
> and cottony but more like skin hanging losely and going over the
top lip.
>
> I had added melafix to the hospital tank for 3 days prior to
releasing
> these three.
>
> Any ideas on what this is and how to treat? I'm fresh out of
guesses.
>
> I tried to post a photo under 130 Fresh, but the rainbows are not
the
> most calm fish so it was hard to get a good picture. You can
however
> see something white overlapping the upper lip.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
Hi Leslie,

I had the same problem, perhaps to a lesser degree. Have you tested
your nitrates? They should be kept at 20 parts per million or less.
In my tank the fungus cleared up on its own when the immune system of
the fishes was restored.

Daniel







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19798 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
No, that's not them... If you upload this picture... You can see one... The little dot on the tip of my finger is a pest star

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs



----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:50:31 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

are these them?
http://img.inkfrog com/click_ enlarge1. php?image= micros1.jpg& username= Nadsark

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:31:53 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

These are the plain micro stars... Fish Stores call them pest stars because they reproduce like snails do in freshwater aquariums

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ yahoo. com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 11:51:42 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Well I have seen lots of micro brittle stars on sale. Then there is the micro star thats all white. Am I correct on that?

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 12:39:20 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Pest stars are little starfish that don't get over 1/4 to 1/2 inch big... They are constantly reproducing and you get get them for free at most saltwater aquarium stores due to the sellers not wanting them... We paid 10 cents a piece for ours... Not suggested if you have corals and anemones... Some people do sell bristle worms because when kept under control they do help clean up your tanks... The fact of the matter is keeping them under control is something that takes more time than most of us have... It's a constant battle... They reproduce too quickly and there's no real sure fire way to get rid of them completely once you have them... Some things work for people... Others don't...

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ yahoo. com> wrote: Well that is good to know thank you. Love your tanks. What is a pest starfish? The reason why I asked about the bristle worms because I came across someone selling them online. Plus I heard they would stir your sand. Which you would want so was a little confussed on it. Thanks again.

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 11:39:31 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

#1. They eat everything in you aquarium... If they run out of rot they will start eating you live rock... #2. They are poisonous so it makes it a really tricky task to do anything with your liverock
The "bristles" I little poisonous dart like things that in some cases can cause burning and itching when you touch them but there have been documented cases of certain bristle worms sending people to the hospital...

My Aquariums

29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ yahoo. com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 1:44:33 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

I saw a trap at my LFS

----- Original Message ----
From: FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 3:37:26 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

Arrow crabs eat them... Brittle stars eat them... I have found that young bristle worms do not stick to nylon being their hairs are way too fine... However... You can buy plans to a traps that I have found actually does work on eBay

Fresh, Brackish And Saltwater Aquariums

----- Original Message ----
From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:21:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] worms in live rock

you can get a brisle worm trap or you can just use a nylon and put some frozen food in it or even a frozen shrimp what will happen is the bristle work will get stuck to the nylon and not beable to get away just becareful when removing the nylon with the worm attached

Morganawolf1@ aol.com wrote: OK. whats the best way to get rid of them?

Harvest wishes
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My Aquariums
29 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Bronze Puffer
18 Gallon Freshwater - 1 Chinese Algae Eater, 1 Female Red-Eye Red-Tail Puffer
55 Gallon Saltwater - 65 lbs Of LiveRock, No Sand Bed, 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish, Several Pest Stars, 1 Three Baneded Damsel, 5 Hermit Crabs

------------ --------- --------- ---
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19799 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: worms in live rock
no. they just looked like tiny worms.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19800 From: Andrew Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Just accepted invitation to join this group
Hello everyone:
I just joined this group after being invited and want to let everyone
know a little about the fish I keep. I currently have a 75 gallon
fresh water community aquarium which houses four discus, two dozen
cardinal tetras, two whip tail plecos, one royal pleco, four clown
loaches, two corys, and two long finned black tetras. Oh yeah I also
have three sword tails and two large angel fish that have been with
me since they were babies. They are seven years old. One of the
discus I purchased as a baby and have had him for four years. The
other discus I've had for almost two years. In addition I have a 20
gallon fresh water aquarium at work that hase 4 small disus, two
swordtails, three albino corys, and two rams.

The 75 gallon aquarium is filtered by a Rena xp3 and the 20 gallon is
filtered by a emperor 280. Both are crystal clear. Ph 6.8 temp 80.5
other water parameters within acceptable range. I do a water change
in each of the tanks every two weeks and vacum the gravel in between
water changes. I have only artificial silk plants in each aquarium
and also have real wood in each. When I get the chance I will email
a photo of my aquaruims.

I have been maintaining aquariums since I was 10 years old and at one
time had a small business maintainning fresh water aquariums.

I hope to learn as well as receive information from the rest of the
members of this group.

Andy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19801 From: Leslie Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: Angel Fry
Actually, the parents began eating them as they began to wiggle.
Almost every egg had little hair strand sized wigglers and they were
eating those. The ones I was able to get out were just eggs that had
not hatched yet.
I'm going on vacation for Thanksgiving so I'm not sure how the two
little fry guys will do. Someone is coming over to tend to my fish
but it's only once a day.

~Leslie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Odds are, the reason the parents were eating the eggs was because most
> were not viable. Grats on the two that survived, though!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19802 From: Mel Bowman Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
My prized loach, along with my platys, tetras, and pleco are doing just fine. The mollies, however, are falling fast with multiple symptoms! Please help! Do I euthanize them, do I try to treat everyone? Help!

Orange and white:
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-tumors.JPG
Please notice the gigantic pimple on her side. It's been forming for months...just keeps getting bigger. But, doesnt seem to bother her. I worry it might burst and leak something nasty in the tank for others to catch. It's been growing for at least 5 months I think.

Baby black and white
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-top.JPG
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-side.JPG
Listless, she's resting in my breeder net but I dont think she'll make it. No idea what's wrong with her. I thought she had popeye but it's not the eye ball that's larger than normal but the area around the eye.

Adult black and white
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-blackandwhite.JPG
Might appear fine in this picture, but several times a day she starts swimming werid...black fin clamps and her body angles upward...like the back half of her is paralyzed.

Other pictures of fish with no symptoms:
The Pleco:
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-pleco2.JPG

Angelicus Loach (my prized fish)
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-loach.JPG

Mickey Mouse Plattys (one has a funky high fin)
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-platys.JPG
Hard to get pics of these guys...they're always playing (with the bubble wall) or teasing the cats.

Gold gourami is camera (and people) shy, but looks ok too.


Mel



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19803 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Mel I would start by pulling all fish you are worried about and putting them in a hospital tank. Adding Aquarium salt to the tank which should help in all these things you have talked about. Mollies can become salt water fish but you don't want to go that far. Just treat them all with salt and it should start helping them all it does look like Popeye on the one, not possitive of the other with out doing more research but salt is how I would start.

Mel Bowman <swismiself@...> wrote: My prized loach, along with my platys, tetras, and pleco are doing just fine. The mollies, however, are falling fast with multiple symptoms! Please help! Do I euthanize them, do I try to treat everyone? Help!

Orange and white:
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-tumors.JPG
Please notice the gigantic pimple on her side. It's been forming for months...just keeps getting bigger. But, doesnt seem to bother her. I worry it might burst and leak something nasty in the tank for others to catch. It's been growing for at least 5 months I think.

Baby black and white
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-top.JPG
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-side.JPG
Listless, she's resting in my breeder net but I dont think she'll make it. No idea what's wrong with her. I thought she had popeye but it's not the eye ball that's larger than normal but the area around the eye.

Adult black and white
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-blackandwhite.JPG
Might appear fine in this picture, but several times a day she starts swimming werid...black fin clamps and her body angles upward...like the back half of her is paralyzed.

Other pictures of fish with no symptoms:
The Pleco:
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-pleco2.JPG

Angelicus Loach (my prized fish)
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-loach.JPG

Mickey Mouse Plattys (one has a funky high fin)
http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-platys.JPG
Hard to get pics of these guys...they're always playing (with the bubble wall) or teasing the cats.

Gold gourami is camera (and people) shy, but looks ok too.


Mel


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19804 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/20/2006
Subject: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
I have a 10 gal tank with 2 guppies, 2 platy, 2 chinese algae eaters,
and 2 albino catfish.

Over the past 2 weeks I have had a horrible cloudy water.

I thought it was related to the algae growth on the artificial hot
pink hibiscus, I had cleaned it a couple of weeks earlier in the
bathroom sink with water from our RO system and just rubbing and
scraping it with my fingernails (read no chemicals). You couldn't
see that it was pink it was so green. I added Algae destroyer and a
pinch - about 10 kernels of aquarium salt that helped the green
cloud, but now I have a milky white cloud.

I have done 1/2 water changes 2 times a week for about 2 weeks and
the last time the water smelled like my son's stinky diaper. I about
lost my dinner but knew it had to be done. I examined everything
very carefully - made each of the fish swim away. I don't have
anything dead in it as I would have thought from the foul smell. I
called my LFS and they said no more chemicals just 1/2 water changes
to clear the water, but didn't say what frequency.

My glass is crystal clear on the top half when I take out the 50%,
and the bottom is a good match when the water is 100% so it's not a
build up on the glass.

I changed my carbon poly filter when I bought the algae destroyer. I
washed the other filter pads under clear tap water (water softner)
the next water change. Tonight I took the whole filter apart and
rinsed / rubbed it under clear tap water.

Current Tank conditions:

Great Nitrite and Nitrate level, soft water but ph is high before my
last water change - haven't taken a test today.

Water temp is 81/80ish

Hibiscus is back to mostly green. One other thin leafed green
artificial plant and 2 glass, 2 plastic cups for "caves" and color -
these are clear and clean.

1 platy looks like death warmed over - looks like he is starving, a
floating skeleton, but he is the first one to eat during feeding
time, and his energy level is consistent (friendly fellow). I asked
LFS about quarentining him they said not necessary. Seems to look
better tonight than he has been - I have been giving him a crisp if
he is at the top when I walk by.

Normally lightly feed 2x each day - light on and 10 min before light
off.

All other fish appear healthy and happy, although they slow down
activity as the cloud worsens. Not as eager eaters as usual tho
perhaps they can't see the food.

Milky white cloud is back after water change Saturday night. If
newly cleaned filter doesn't pull it out I will be changing water
tomorrow.

Any ideas???


Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19805 From: jacquieber4@juno.com Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Betty Lou Kline,
Maybe using the algae destroyer and changing the filter was just too much
at one time. The filter has a lot of the good bacteria living in it
also, to keep the bad bacteria down which prevents white water. I've
read that's it's important not to rinse the filter in hot water because
of that. You probably did use cool water for rinsing .
I had the same problem with white water. I have a 29 gallon tank and I
accidentally took out 3/4 of the water and replaced it. Within 2 days
it was so cloudy I could hardly see the fish. Only take out 1/3 of the
water for a water change. The best way to describe it is....there is
good bacteria and bad bacteria in the tank. When you remove half the
water which has the good bacteria in it and you replace it with new
water, the bad bacteria sometimes takes over the tank and the water turns
white. I was told to keep the tank lights off and just let it clear up.
You could put a few drops of ClearWater in it and just let it work. I
have several tanks and another thing I do is put some water from a good
tank into the bad tank . I also do that when I start up a new tank.

The same tank also at one time turned green. It looked like green pea
soup and couldn't see the fish. Caused from too much light in the room
and I had probably taken out too much water that time too. After awhile
it all cleared up.
I think you should stop doing water changes for awhile and let the water
build up the good bacteria and then do only 1/3 at a time. I think there
are enzymes that you can buy at the fish store to put in the water and
help clear it up. I've never used enzymes and not sure how good it
works.

I have a ten year old oscar and a seven year old "feeder goldfish". In
separate tanks of course. The feeder fish was too pretty to feed to the
oscar. I had ten tanks at one time and I've cut back to just two tanks.

Jackie






Tue, 21 Nov 2006 00:29:28 -0000 "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...>
writes:
I have a 10 gal tank with 2 guppies, 2 platy, 2 chinese algae eaters,
and 2 albino catfish.

Over the past 2 weeks I have had a horrible cloudy water.

I thought it was related to the algae growth on the artificial hot
pink hibiscus, I had cleaned it a couple of weeks earlier in the
bathroom sink with water from our RO system and just rubbing and
scraping it with my fingernails (read no chemicals). You couldn't
see that it was pink it was so green. I added Algae destroyer and a
pinch - about 10 kernels of aquarium salt that helped the green
cloud, but now I have a milky white cloud.

I have done 1/2 water changes 2 times a week for about 2 weeks and
the last time the water smelled like my son's stinky diaper. I about
lost my dinner but knew it had to be done. I examined everything
very carefully - made each of the fish swim away. I don't have
anything dead in it as I would have thought from the foul smell. I
called my LFS and they said no more chemicals just 1/2 water changes
to clear the water, but didn't say what frequency.

My glass is crystal clear on the top half when I take out the 50%,
and the bottom is a good match when the water is 100% so it's not a
build up on the glass.

I changed my carbon poly filter when I bought the algae destroyer. I
washed the other filter pads under clear tap water (water softner)
the next water change. Tonight I took the whole filter apart and
rinsed / rubbed it under clear tap water.

Current Tank conditions:

Great Nitrite and Nitrate level, soft water but ph is high before my
last water change - haven't taken a test today.

Water temp is 81/80ish

Hibiscus is back to mostly green. One other thin leafed green
artificial plant and 2 glass, 2 plastic cups for "caves" and color -
these are clear and clean.

1 platy looks like death warmed over - looks like he is starving, a
floating skeleton, but he is the first one to eat during feeding
time, and his energy level is consistent (friendly fellow). I asked
LFS about quarentining him they said not necessary. Seems to look
better tonight than he has been - I have been giving him a crisp if
he is at the top when I walk by.

Normally lightly feed 2x each day - light on and 10 min before light
off.

All other fish appear healthy and happy, although they slow down
activity as the cloud worsens. Not as eager eaters as usual tho
perhaps they can't see the food.

Milky white cloud is back after water change Saturday night. If
newly cleaned filter doesn't pull it out I will be changing water
tomorrow.

Any ideas???

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19806 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
It would certainly go a long ways in knowing some of your water
parameters (noteably, ammonia and nitrite), and how long this tank
has been set up. If this info has been posted in an earlier message,
I missed it. In any case, it would do you well to monitor both the
ammonia and nitrite levels, especially under these circumstances, to
give you some indication of what's happening.

Your green cloudy water of the past two weeks may have been related
to your algae growth on your artificial plant only in that they
shared the same excessive conditions, i.e., too much lighting, too
much plant nutrition (possible excessive ammonia, etc.), insufficient
(or complete lack of) live plants, which use this nutrition and
insufficiently established biological filtration system -- not
completely cycled, or in the midst of an additional "mini-cycle."

While chemicals such as Algae Destroyer may be quick in taking care
of the immediate problem you are attempting to correct, such
chemicals should be avoided whenever possible as they often create
more problems than they "cure." Algae Destroyer (Poly/Oxyethylene)
is also detrimental to your beneficial bacteria in your filter which
break down the ammonia and nitrite into relatively harmless nitrate,
removeable by both live plants and a regular regimen of water
changing.

It appears that in destroying the suspended algae in such an
unnatural way, you caused it to "crash," creating an abundance of
food for ammonia eating bacteria (nitrosoma) in the water column.
This abundance of food (ammonia, and nitrite -- now feeding your free
nitrite-eating bacteria, nitrobacter) has caused a bacteria bloom,
which is the result you see now as a milky white cloud. As these
bacteria are aerobic (beneficial, but in the wrong place), they are
not however lending to the "stinky" odor of the tank, but I suspect
much of this dead once-suspended algae is now down in the substrate
where it is being used as food for anaerobic bacteria. These types
of bacteria give off foul smelling gases such as hydrogen sulfide and
methane, both toxic to fish, by the way.

The worse thing you can do is to clean and/or rinse your filter and
its pads under tap water as the chlorine or chloramine will kill the
beneficial bacteria that is trying to get established to complete
your nitrogen cycle. These components should be cleaned in a bucket
of aquarium water, to preserve the bacteria, and then only half of
the pads or components should be cleaned at any one time. Cleaning
the filter under tap water is indefinitely prolonging the cycling
time (normally about 6 weeks). Until such time as your cycle gets
established, you will need to make frequent, and as large as
necessary, water changes, testing your parameters as the cycle
progresses; this frequency too, is dependant upon your parameters
(test results) and may be needed up to several times per week, all
going by your ammonia and nitrite levels.

Light feedings twice a day should not contribute towards an anearobic
condition in your substrate, although it may if the food is not all
consumed within that 10 minutes before lights-out. There may just be
a general build-up of food that has fallen into the substrate, which
could greatly contribute towards your foul smell. Along with regular
maintenance of water changes, the substrate should be vacuumed twice
a month, doing half of it every other week -- so every week you'll be
doing some gravel maintenance.

While you state that your nitrite and nitrate levels are "great," you
don't say what those test readings are, nor do you indicate an
ammonia reading, or even a test of it. You would not have this cloud
of bacteria if you didn't have ammonia. If using a carbon poly
filter, this should be changed at least every 2 weeks under
conditions of elevated ammonia and/or nitrite readings. Nothing
wrong with high pH, although again you don't give a reading. You
don't need to keep the temperature up at 80o/81o; 77o/78o would be
just fine for most community fish. I'd suggest trading the Chinese
Algae Eaters back to the LFS for Siamese Algae Eaters; CAE's will get
at least 6" (or more) and get nastier as they grow.

Some white/grey cloudiness is to be expected sometimes during
cycling, but more that that is not normal and can be detrimental to
the fish; at the very least, it is pulling out a lot of oxygen,
another reason to lower the temp right now. Do not expect the "newly
cleaned" filter to mechanically pull this out. You will be doing
additional water changes tomorrow and until such time as this begins
to correct itself, which it will. Best of luck. Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...>
wrote:
>
> I have a 10 gal tank with 2 guppies, 2 platy, 2 chinese algae
eaters,
> and 2 albino catfish.
>
> Over the past 2 weeks I have had a horrible cloudy water.
>
> I thought it was related to the algae growth on the artificial hot
> pink hibiscus, I had cleaned it a couple of weeks earlier in the
> bathroom sink with water from our RO system and just rubbing and
> scraping it with my fingernails (read no chemicals). You couldn't
> see that it was pink it was so green. I added Algae destroyer and
a
> pinch - about 10 kernels of aquarium salt that helped the green
> cloud, but now I have a milky white cloud.
>
> I have done 1/2 water changes 2 times a week for about 2 weeks and
> the last time the water smelled like my son's stinky diaper. I
about
> lost my dinner but knew it had to be done. I examined everything
> very carefully - made each of the fish swim away. I don't have
> anything dead in it as I would have thought from the foul smell. I
> called my LFS and they said no more chemicals just 1/2 water
changes
> to clear the water, but didn't say what frequency.
>
> My glass is crystal clear on the top half when I take out the 50%,
> and the bottom is a good match when the water is 100% so it's not a
> build up on the glass.
>
> I changed my carbon poly filter when I bought the algae destroyer.
I
> washed the other filter pads under clear tap water (water softner)
> the next water change. Tonight I took the whole filter apart and
> rinsed / rubbed it under clear tap water.
>
> Current Tank conditions:
>
> Great Nitrite and Nitrate level, soft water but ph is high before
my
> last water change - haven't taken a test today.
>
> Water temp is 81/80ish
>
> Hibiscus is back to mostly green. One other thin leafed green
> artificial plant and 2 glass, 2 plastic cups for "caves" and color -

> these are clear and clean.
>
> 1 platy looks like death warmed over - looks like he is starving, a
> floating skeleton, but he is the first one to eat during feeding
> time, and his energy level is consistent (friendly fellow). I
asked
> LFS about quarentining him they said not necessary. Seems to look
> better tonight than he has been - I have been giving him a crisp if
> he is at the top when I walk by.
>
> Normally lightly feed 2x each day - light on and 10 min before
light
> off.
>
> All other fish appear healthy and happy, although they slow down
> activity as the cloud worsens. Not as eager eaters as usual tho
> perhaps they can't see the food.
>
> Milky white cloud is back after water change Saturday night. If
> newly cleaned filter doesn't pull it out I will be changing water
> tomorrow.
>
> Any ideas???
>
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> http://www.yourquietretreat.com
> Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19807 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
How long has this tank been running? Is it a while or a green cloudiness? What do you water tests for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrate say? How often and how much of a tank maintance do you do?


----- Original Message ----
From: Betty Lou <mommykline@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 7:29:28 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!

I have a 10 gal tank with 2 guppies, 2 platy, 2 chinese algae eaters,
and 2 albino catfish.

Over the past 2 weeks I have had a horrible cloudy water.

I thought it was related to the algae growth on the artificial hot
pink hibiscus, I had cleaned it a couple of weeks earlier in the
bathroom sink with water from our RO system and just rubbing and
scraping it with my fingernails (read no chemicals). You couldn't
see that it was pink it was so green. I added Algae destroyer and a
pinch - about 10 kernels of aquarium salt that helped the green
cloud, but now I have a milky white cloud.

I have done 1/2 water changes 2 times a week for about 2 weeks and
the last time the water smelled like my son's stinky diaper. I about
lost my dinner but knew it had to be done. I examined everything
very carefully - made each of the fish swim away. I don't have
anything dead in it as I would have thought from the foul smell. I
called my LFS and they said no more chemicals just 1/2 water changes
to clear the water, but didn't say what frequency.

My glass is crystal clear on the top half when I take out the 50%,
and the bottom is a good match when the water is 100% so it's not a
build up on the glass.

I changed my carbon poly filter when I bought the algae destroyer. I
washed the other filter pads under clear tap water (water softner)
the next water change. Tonight I took the whole filter apart and
rinsed / rubbed it under clear tap water.

Current Tank conditions:

Great Nitrite and Nitrate level, soft water but ph is high before my
last water change - haven't taken a test today.

Water temp is 81/80ish

Hibiscus is back to mostly green. One other thin leafed green
artificial plant and 2 glass, 2 plastic cups for "caves" and color -
these are clear and clean.

1 platy looks like death warmed over - looks like he is starving, a
floating skeleton, but he is the first one to eat during feeding
time, and his energy level is consistent (friendly fellow). I asked
LFS about quarentining him they said not necessary. Seems to look
better tonight than he has been - I have been giving him a crisp if
he is at the top when I walk by.

Normally lightly feed 2x each day - light on and 10 min before light
off.

All other fish appear healthy and happy, although they slow down
activity as the cloud worsens. Not as eager eaters as usual tho
perhaps they can't see the food.

Milky white cloud is back after water change Saturday night. If
newly cleaned filter doesn't pull it out I will be changing water
tomorrow.

Any ideas???

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquie tretreat. com
Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19808 From: joe mihalich Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
your lfs had the right idea, water changes til it is cleaned up.
the frequency should be every day a 25% water change, no more chemicals.
i have found that most chemicals will foul the water they claim will
clear things up.
do not keep changing the filter as your tank needs to
have the benficial bacteria to help clean the tank up.
is your tank near a window?
if so, move it away, as the sunlight will create algea growth in the tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19809 From: vicky Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: NEW MEMBER
Hi everyone
I am new to this group and also new to having an aquarium. I have a
29g community tank. I have just started this tank. I don't know very
much about fresh water fish but willing to learn. I probably will be
asking lots of questions.

vicky
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19810 From: AquaticLife Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Just accepted invitation to join this group
Hi Andy,

Welcome to the group and thanks for joining.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <don_andres_58@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello everyone:
> I just joined this group after being invited and want to let
everyone
> know a little about the fish I keep. I currently have a 75 gallon
> fresh water community aquarium which houses four discus, two dozen
> cardinal tetras, two whip tail plecos, one royal pleco, four clown
> loaches, two corys, and two long finned black tetras. Oh yeah I
also
> have three sword tails and two large angel fish that have been with
> me since they were babies. They are seven years old. One of the
> discus I purchased as a baby and have had him for four years. The
> other discus I've had for almost two years. In addition I have a
20
> gallon fresh water aquarium at work that hase 4 small disus, two
> swordtails, three albino corys, and two rams.
>
> The 75 gallon aquarium is filtered by a Rena xp3 and the 20 gallon
is
> filtered by a emperor 280. Both are crystal clear. Ph 6.8 temp
80.5
> other water parameters within acceptable range. I do a water
change
> in each of the tanks every two weeks and vacum the gravel in
between
> water changes. I have only artificial silk plants in each aquarium
> and also have real wood in each. When I get the chance I will
email
> a photo of my aquaruims.
>
> I have been maintaining aquariums since I was 10 years old and at
one
> time had a small business maintainning fresh water aquariums.
>
> I hope to learn as well as receive information from the rest of the
> members of this group.
>
> Andy
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19811 From: Will Griffin Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
I agree with that aerobic bacteria culture starter product and not to
put too much chemical in the water. That biozyme and aquarium salt are
basic products, but they are essentials for any new aquarium. I sell
the chemicals and medications on my web sites, but I'd much rather see
someone get started right and have a lot of healthy fish.

The tank is smelling because of anerobic bacteria. The more aerobic
bacteria and the more aeration the less likely an anaerobic culture
will take hold.

I have some of this info at http://tropical-fish-net.com/ but I didn't
put the bacterial starter tip in the getting started section. I'm
going to do that on this site and my others, now that things slow down
this time of year with my fire truck and funding business, so I can
spend more time on my fish/pets web sites and interest in these
groups. I started doing more updates and further development on these
sites and in some of my groups this past weekend...been a real busy
year for fire trucks and municipal funding...glad it is slowing down
now, so I can spend more time with fish/pets.

Will Griffin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19812 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
At 05:09 PM 11/20/2006, you wrote:

>My prized loach, along with my platys, tetras, and pleco are doing
>just fine. The mollies, however, are falling fast with multiple
>symptoms! Please help! Do I euthanize them, do I try to treat everyone? Help!
Hi:

My friend, whose a fish person, offered this feedback regarding your plea, Mel:

On the guy with multiple sick fish, there's not enough information
to even guess. The pictures don't help at all. He should test his
water and then perform several partial water changes of 20% spaced a
few hours apart. He should declorinate with a declorinator that
properly deals with chloramines, (not all do), and also one that
detoxifies nitrite and removes ammonia. (The reason he should do
several and not one big one is because the sudden change in water
parameters with a big change can severely stress an already stressed
fish. Doing smaller ones makes the change gradual for the fish). He
should also siphon the gravel.

I hope this helps and that your fish get better.

Jeannie


>Orange and white:
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-tumors.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-tumors.JPG
>Please notice the gigantic pimple on her side. It's been forming for
>months...just keeps getting bigger. But, doesnt seem to bother her.
>I worry it might burst and leak something nasty in the tank for
>others to catch. It's been growing for at least 5 months I think.
>
>Baby black and white
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-top.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-top.JPG
>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-side.JPG
>Listless, she's resting in my breeder net but I dont think she'll
>make it. No idea what's wrong with her. I thought she had popeye but
>it's not the eye ball that's larger than normal but the area around the eye.
>
>Adult black and white
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-blackandwhite.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-blackandwhite.JPG
>Might appear fine in this picture, but several times a day she
>starts swimming werid...black fin clamps and her body angles
>upward...like the back half of her is paralyzed.
>
>Other pictures of fish with no symptoms:
>The Pleco:
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-pleco2.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-pleco2.JPG
>
>Angelicus Loach (my prized fish)
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-loach.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-loach.JPG
>
>Mickey Mouse Plattys (one has a funky high fin)
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-platys.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-platys.JPG
>Hard to get pics of these guys...they're always playing (with the
>bubble wall) or teasing the cats.
>
>Gold gourami is camera (and people) shy, but looks ok too.
>
>
>Mel
>
>
>--


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19813 From: Will Griffin Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Angel Fry
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Odds are, the reason the parents were eating the eggs was because
most
> were not viable. Grats on the two that survived, though!
>

They'll also eat fry, if/when spooked as a natural response to eat
the fry so that the preditors don't, thrive, breed and make more
preditors. Don't move to quick or too often around a tank of
angelfish with a new batch of fry.

Next time you see the spawners getting ready (breeding tubes will
begin to drop and female will swell with eggs) put them in a bare
tank with a piece of slate and similar, if not identical water
conditions. If you add more soft acid water this will make them
inclined to spawn. Feed the spawners BBS daily before they spawn.
Keep this tank away from a high traffic area. You'll have more baby
angelfish than you can count. Also rememeber that this appears to
have been the first spawn for your angelfish, so this is a factor
also.

You may also wish to put your spawners in a spare tank that you have
a filter running. Use 1/2 of the water change water from the tank
they are in for this. If you have them in a 20 gallon with other
angelfish, then if you change 10%/week, it will take you about a
month to have enough of this water (50% if you use a 20 gallon) to
add the new fresh water, which will induce spawning.

Another option is just having a piece of slate in the tank with them
and after they spawn, remove the the slate and put it in a smaller
aquarium (10 gallon), with an airstone running gently under it to
circulate the water. You will need to have an eye dropper to remove
the fungus eggs, so that they don't contaminate the other eggs. Have
the BBS ready for them, when they are free swimming. If you have
some vinegar eels or microworms, feeding these sparingly for the
first few days is also a good way to help the fry to survive and
thrive.

If you wish anything further, please don't hesitate to write me
privately. I do have a private aquarium club that I give away a lot
of free memberships to folks in groups like this, who are decent
folks, seriously interested in tropical fish and certainly those who
provide reliable information. Anybody here interested in this should
visit http://Aquarium-Club.com/join.htm and put in "Aquaticlife" as
the code.

I am very prudent and selective who I give these to, because I want a
nice group of beginners to old veterans and everybody is nice, no
flame wars, etc. Likewise I don't let just anybody post fish, eggs
and supplies for sale. As with my fish, I much prefer quality over
quantity and when you have a total of over 125,000 monthly web site
visitors...there is no such thing as a little problem.

It amazes me how some folks will flame someone, say their information
is wrong and then post something that anybody over age 10 and has
raised fish for more than 1 year know to be grossly in error...those
of us with over 40 years of hobby and breeding experience just read
their postings and shake our heads.

Will Griffin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19814 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: NEW MEMBER
Welcome Vicky Ask any Question you are sure to get an answer
vicky <grammyluvchild@...> wrote: Hi everyone
I am new to this group and also new to having an aquarium. I have a
29g community tank. I have just started this tank. I don't know very
much about fresh water fish but willing to learn. I probably will be
asking lots of questions.

vicky






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19815 From: ronno971 Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: New member
Hello everyone,

I am not new to auariums but am am new to "groups" and my 155 gallon
planted Discus tankis also new. I have done salt and community fresh
in the past.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19816 From: Andreas Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: KH Co2 and GH
Ok so I have a tank with fish that prefer soft water.

However I would also like to inject Co2 into the tank for my plants

someone once told me that adding baking soda increases KH and that KH is not
noticed by fish

i have the RO right stuff for raising GH when necessary

so can I add baking soda to a tank to raise KH and therefore that CO2
injection via a PH probe or would that make the fish unhappy?

does this make any sense?

Andreas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19817 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Here e a few sites that helped me alot._Tropical Fish Centre - Fish
Diseases_ (http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Diseases1.htm)
_Fish Disease diagnosis & fish disease treatments_
(http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/)
I hope these help.
I have not had much luck with the black mollies at all. I think that the
bloodlines of the mollie species have really gotten weak somewhere along the
line. The fatality rate of these fish are really high. Where some people do well
with them, a lot loose them to numerous diseases. I hope you can clear up
the problem, if not, I believe its the breeding of these species.

Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19818 From: glass_etch Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
I agree with Jackie, let the tank sit and recover on its own. as long
as the smell is gone. however if you get the smell back, try
replacing all the water with either rain water or store bought spring
water I recommed rain water I've always had good luck with it. also
if you are getting city water let the water set overnight (or two)
that will let some of the chemicals evaporate out


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, jacquieber4@... wrote:
>
> Betty Lou Kline,
> Maybe using the algae destroyer and changing the filter was just
too much
> at one time. The filter has a lot of the good bacteria living in it
> also, to keep the bad bacteria down which prevents white water.
I've
> read that's it's important not to rinse the filter in hot water
because
> of that. You probably did use cool water for rinsing .
> I had the same problem with white water. I have a 29 gallon tank
and I
> accidentally took out 3/4 of the water and replaced it. Within 2
days
> it was so cloudy I could hardly see the fish. Only take out 1/3 of
the
> water for a water change. The best way to describe it is....there
is
> good bacteria and bad bacteria in the tank. When you remove half
the
> water which has the good bacteria in it and you replace it with new
> water, the bad bacteria sometimes takes over the tank and the water
turns
> white. I was told to keep the tank lights off and just let it
clear up.
> You could put a few drops of ClearWater in it and just let it
work. I
> have several tanks and another thing I do is put some water from a
good
> tank into the bad tank . I also do that when I start up a new tank.
>
> The same tank also at one time turned green. It looked like green
pea
> soup and couldn't see the fish. Caused from too much light in the
room
> and I had probably taken out too much water that time too. After
awhile
> it all cleared up.
> I think you should stop doing water changes for awhile and let the
water
> build up the good bacteria and then do only 1/3 at a time. I think
there
> are enzymes that you can buy at the fish store to put in the water
and
> help clear it up. I've never used enzymes and not sure how good it
> works.
>
> I have a ten year old oscar and a seven year old "feeder
goldfish". In
> separate tanks of course. The feeder fish was too pretty to feed
to the
> oscar. I had ten tanks at one time and I've cut back to just two
tanks.
>
> Jackie
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19819 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Controlling phosphates???
The level is extremely high.......first time in five years, how do I fix this and what caused it? The only difference in the tank is the pleco we bought, OH, and a new type of plant. Apart from that, nada.....Thanks!

Cynthia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19820 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
I've had Mollies, particularly black ones so successfully for the last years that I have had to sell the babies to a local pet store. If you had more info, I may be able to help........

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: ~~JFazio~~
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Trouble with mollies! Emergency!


At 05:09 PM 11/20/2006, you wrote:

>My prized loach, along with my platys, tetras, and pleco are doing
>just fine. The mollies, however, are falling fast with multiple
>symptoms! Please help! Do I euthanize them, do I try to treat everyone? Help!
Hi:

My friend, whose a fish person, offered this feedback regarding your plea, Mel:

On the guy with multiple sick fish, there's not enough information
to even guess. The pictures don't help at all. He should test his
water and then perform several partial water changes of 20% spaced a
few hours apart. He should declorinate with a declorinator that
properly deals with chloramines, (not all do), and also one that
detoxifies nitrite and removes ammonia. (The reason he should do
several and not one big one is because the sudden change in water
parameters with a big change can severely stress an already stressed
fish. Doing smaller ones makes the change gradual for the fish). He
should also siphon the gravel.

I hope this helps and that your fish get better.

Jeannie

>Orange and white:
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-tumors.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-tumors.JPG
>Please notice the gigantic pimple on her side. It's been forming for
>months...just keeps getting bigger. But, doesnt seem to bother her.
>I worry it might burst and leak something nasty in the tank for
>others to catch. It's been growing for at least 5 months I think.
>
>Baby black and white
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-top.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-top.JPG
>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-side.JPG
>Listless, she's resting in my breeder net but I dont think she'll
>make it. No idea what's wrong with her. I thought she had popeye but
>it's not the eye ball that's larger than normal but the area around the eye.
>
>Adult black and white
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-blackandwhite.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-blackandwhite.JPG
>Might appear fine in this picture, but several times a day she
>starts swimming werid...black fin clamps and her body angles
>upward...like the back half of her is paralyzed.
>
>Other pictures of fish with no symptoms:
>The Pleco:
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-pleco2.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-pleco2.JPG
>
>Angelicus Loach (my prized fish)
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-loach.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-loach.JPG
>
>Mickey Mouse Plattys (one has a funky high fin)
><http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-platys.JPG>http://www.agabengalcats.com/linkedpics/tropicalfish-platys.JPG
>Hard to get pics of these guys...they're always playing (with the
>bubble wall) or teasing the cats.
>
>Gold gourami is camera (and people) shy, but looks ok too.
>
>
>Mel
>
>
>--

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19821 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Betty Lou,

I've read through the replies you have gotten on this issue so far, and you do have some good advice in there.

The white/grey cloudiness you are seeing is a bacterial bloom. This is fairly common in new tanks. Not all of them get it, but enough do to be able to give this condition a name, new tan syndrome. It will normally clear up on its own, if you do not do anything out of the ordinary. Usually one does not detect an odor such as you have.

I think the odor you are smelling may come from anaerobic activity in the substrate. When you do your water changes, do you also stir up the substrate, either by using a gravel washing siphon (the one with a wide tube on the one end) or by stirring it up with something while doing the water change? If not, you should. This helps prevent too much anaerobic activity from occurring.

I cannot take issue with your 50% water changes twice a week. This is more than most people do. If you wish, you can cut this down to two 25% water changes or one 50% change per week. When you do the water change do use a water conditioner to remove the chloramines or chlorine, depending on the treatment of your water (unless, of course, you are lucky enough to have well water).

You will have algal problems without using live plants in your tank, if you light the tank for 10-12 hours a day. There is just no way around it. Algae needs light, food and water. This is exactly the same equation for keeping live plants. The live plants are more avid consumers of the food, and will out compete the algal growth in your tank. The main source of food for both is the nitrogenous material in your tank, produced by the fish and modified by the biological process. The hand cleaning of your "plant" should have been sufficient.

A big red flag is they way you cleaned your filter pads before placing them back into service. To preserve the bacterial colonies that have grown on the pads, you should rinse the pads in the water you have just removed from the tank during your water change. I would skip the carbon unless its use is indicated by something going on in the tank, like the removal of medicines or another additive you may have used. Other than that, you should not need to use carbon. If you are not using a bio wheel, you may wish to look to see if there is one that will fit your filter. This will help with your biological filtration. You can never have too much biological filtration. In fact, the bacteria that do this work for you will see to that by limiting their active population to the amount of food available to them. The more surface you give them to colonize, the better of you and they will be. If you manage to wipe out the better part of your colony, it does take a while for them to recover. You will experience another cycle beginning as they rebuild themselves.

Great nitrite and nitrate really do not mean anything. We need numbers to judge your water quality. Also reported should be the ammonia and pH. You did mention your pH was up a bit before your last water change. A rising pH is unusual in a tank, unless you are doing something to raise it. Normally, the pH will slowly drop due to the biological process in a closed system. Number are very helpful.

The water temperature seems to be high for the fish you are keeping in your tank. You might want to slowly let it fall to the mid 70's. The fish you have will be more comfortable and live longer lives at the lower temperature.

No a word about the size of your tank. Do not take this as criticism, and it is directed at all, especially the novices in our audience. A 10 gallon tank is a bad size for a novice fish keeper. When you consider getting into this hobby, you should do it with the largest tank you can afford and have room for. Anything 50 gallons or larger would be ideal. Stop looking at me funny. There is a very sound reason behind this. As a newcomer, you will make mistakes. More water gives you more room to make these mistakes. Heck, even the old timers make mistakes. The fish we kill are just more expensive <g>. Way back when, near the dawn of time, our goal was to produce a "balanced" aquarium. We did not know about such things as the biological cycle, which in the end was what we were trying to create. We used larger tanks, a lot of plants (we often did not understand exactly what they needed either), and filtration efforts that would be laughable today.

A large volume of water will retain heat longer, take longer to warm up (a stuck heater) or cool down (a broken heater or loss of power). You need proportionately more ammonia to throw the numbers out of whack. In fact, anything you do, you need proportionately more wrong doing to get the task accomplished. This needing more is what can save your sweet behind, because it gives you more time to realize you are doing something wrong, and more time to correct it.

Take an example. If you pull the heater out of your 10 gallon, it will be near room temperature the next morning--taking your 80° temperature and a room temperature of 70-72°. Do the same with a 55, and it will only lose a few degrees of temperature.

If you have not already, you should get yourself a good book to guide you with your new adventure. I recommend the Baensch _Aquarium Atlas_ for those just coming into the hobby. It can give you a good base of knowledge to work from. It has a section on setting up and maintaining a tank. A section on plants, and a large section on the various species and varieties of fish available. This book runs about $40, but it will save you far more in the long run.

Above all, your prime rule should be "Don't Panic". You may wish to read the Hitchhikers Guide to the galaxy" or view the movie on DVD to learn the wisdom of that phrase <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 7:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!

I have a 10 gal tank with 2 guppies, 2 platy, 2 chinese algae eaters,
and 2 albino catfish.

Over the past 2 weeks I have had a horrible cloudy water.

I thought it was related to the algae growth on the artificial hot
pink hibiscus, I had cleaned it a couple of weeks earlier in the
bathroom sink with water from our RO system and just rubbing and
scraping it with my fingernails (read no chemicals). You couldn't
see that it was pink it was so green. I added Algae destroyer and a
pinch - about 10 kernels of aquarium salt that helped the green
cloud, but now I have a milky white cloud.

I have done 1/2 water changes 2 times a week for about 2 weeks and
the last time the water smelled like my son's stinky diaper. I about
lost my dinner but knew it had to be done. I examined everything
very carefully - made each of the fish swim away. I don't have
anything dead in it as I would have thought from the foul smell. I
called my LFS and they said no more chemicals just 1/2 water changes
to clear the water, but didn't say what frequency.

My glass is crystal clear on the top half when I take out the 50%,
and the bottom is a good match when the water is 100% so it's not a
build up on the glass.

I changed my carbon poly filter when I bought the algae destroyer. I
washed the other filter pads under clear tap water (water softner)
the next water change. Tonight I took the whole filter apart and
rinsed / rubbed it under clear tap water.

Current Tank conditions:

Great Nitrite and Nitrate level, soft water but ph is high before my
last water change - haven't taken a test today.

Water temp is 81/80ish

Hibiscus is back to mostly green. One other thin leafed green
artificial plant and 2 glass, 2 plastic cups for "caves" and color -
these are clear and clean.

1 platy looks like death warmed over - looks like he is starving, a
floating skeleton, but he is the first one to eat during feeding
time, and his energy level is consistent (friendly fellow). I asked
LFS about quarentining him they said not necessary. Seems to look
better tonight than he has been - I have been giving him a crisp if
he is at the top when I walk by.

Normally lightly feed 2x each day - light on and 10 min before light
off.

All other fish appear healthy and happy, although they slow down
activity as the cloud worsens. Not as eager eaters as usual tho
perhaps they can't see the food.

Milky white cloud is back after water change Saturday night. If
newly cleaned filter doesn't pull it out I will be changing water
tomorrow.

Any ideas???


Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19822 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Thank you all for the great posts & sometimes conflicting but well
meant information!

I will address the questions that everyone has brought up tomorrow, as
I will be doing another 5 point dip stick test and will have updated
info. I left the light off all day today, and only visted while I fed
them, I hope I don't get a cold "fin" (shoulder) from the guys
tomorrow!! <grin>

FYI - I am a lucky well water owner!! We have curiously high rust but
otherwise awesome water. (I think I said we do have a softner and RO
system tho). We live on wetlands, and have several spring fed ponds
nearby! Wish I could find a source and pipe it into the house!

Betty Lou
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19823 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/21/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Thank you all for the great posts & sometimes conflicting but well
meant information!

I will address the questions that everyone has brought up tomorrow, as
I will be doing another 5 point dip stick test and will have updated
info. I left the light off all day today, and only visted while I fed
them, I hope I don't get a cold "fin" (shoulder) from the guys
tomorrow!! <grin>

FYI - I am a lucky well water owner!! We have curiously high rust but
otherwise awesome water. (I think I said we do have a softner and RO
system tho). We live on wetlands, and have several spring fed ponds
nearby! Wish I could find a source and pipe it into the house!

Betty Lou
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19824 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Controlling phosphates???
What is the phosphate level of your tap water? This would be the first place I would look.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 7:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Controlling phosphates???

The level is extremely high.......first time in five years, how do I fix this and what caused it? The only difference in the tank is the pleco we bought, OH, and a new type of plant. Apart from that, nada.....Thanks!

Cynthia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19825 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Betty Lou, Water, in and of itself, does not smell! Unless the
water has a high solution of dissolved matter that would lend to such
odors, these odors must be emminating from elsewhere in the aquarium -
- most probably the substrate. It obviously can't be coming from the
filter since that was just cleaned (all too well). To just let the
tank sit and hope it will recover on its own is not addressing the
problem. I'd suggest cleaning at least the top layer of the gravel,
as previously recommended. Upon stirring it up, you may find it may
need even deeper cleaning.

We're awaiting your response as to the test results you will be
taking again. Do your water changes in accordance with the numbers
indicated in you ammonia and nitrite tests. Once we have them, we
can advise you further as to how much (and how frequent) water you
need to change. Changing out too much water too frequently will
result in prolonging the cycling time, as you could possibly be
taking too much "food" (read, ammonia & nitrites) away from the
beneficial bacteria trying to get established in your filter.

Although the use of carbon in the filter is generally unnecessary,
except under certain circumstances (removing spent medications,
etc.), I would still recommend its temporary use of changing the
carbon pads out every 2 weeks for now, as this will both both
eliminate some of the excess ammonia and nitrites causing the
bacteria bloom (white/grey cloud) if it appears that your readings
are too high, and eliminate some of the odor, since carbon removes
any and all impurities. This is not to imply that the direct cause
of the odors (substrate) need not be addressed. Too, asking the
carbon to completely control the ammonia and nitrite is asking too
much of it, but this will help somewhat until you get things under
control.

After this time, you may use the carbon pads if you prefer, but be
advised they can be detrimental as the carbon reaches its saturation
point of absorbing impurities, as the carbon will then start
releasing these impurities back into the water. In general, and this
depends on many varying factors of each aquarium, carbon's life may
be good for an average of 30 days. Since you mentioned changing out
the carbon pad, I'm assuming that you also have a mechanical
filtration pad in the filter also. As these two pads should never be
changed (or cleaned, as in the case of the mechanical pad), you can
alternate maintenance of them; by "mechanical" pad, I'm referring to
that pad which physically filters out the suspended particals.
Retaining one of the pads "uncleaned" will help maintain the
beneficial bacteria colony in your filter at all times, which is
what's needed to limit the loss of and unify these bacteria
populations. Two mechanical pads (instead of one carbon and one
mechanical), alternating their cleanings with each filter maintenance
schedule (once a month on average, under normal conditions) would do
just as well, and eliminate any risk with using carbon. Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "glass_etch" <glass_etch@...>
wrote:
>
> I agree with Jackie, let the tank sit and recover on its own. as
long
> as the smell is gone. however if you get the smell back, try
> replacing all the water with either rain water or store bought
spring
> water I recommed rain water I've always had good luck with it.
also
> if you are getting city water let the water set overnight (or two)
> that will let some of the chemicals evaporate out
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, jacquieber4@ wrote:
> >
> > Betty Lou Kline,
> > Maybe using the algae destroyer and changing the filter was just
> too much
> > at one time. The filter has a lot of the good bacteria living in
it
> > also, to keep the bad bacteria down which prevents white water.
> I've
> > read that's it's important not to rinse the filter in hot water
> because
> > of that. You probably did use cool water for rinsing .
> > I had the same problem with white water. I have a 29 gallon tank
> and I
> > accidentally took out 3/4 of the water and replaced it. Within
2
> days
> > it was so cloudy I could hardly see the fish. Only take out 1/3
of
> the
> > water for a water change. The best way to describe it
is....there
> is
> > good bacteria and bad bacteria in the tank. When you remove half
> the
> > water which has the good bacteria in it and you replace it with
new
> > water, the bad bacteria sometimes takes over the tank and the
water
> turns
> > white. I was told to keep the tank lights off and just let it
> clear up.
> > You could put a few drops of ClearWater in it and just let it
> work. I
> > have several tanks and another thing I do is put some water from
a
> good
> > tank into the bad tank . I also do that when I start up a new
tank.
> >
> > The same tank also at one time turned green. It looked like
green
> pea
> > soup and couldn't see the fish. Caused from too much light in
the
> room
> > and I had probably taken out too much water that time too. After
> awhile
> > it all cleared up.
> > I think you should stop doing water changes for awhile and let
the
> water
> > build up the good bacteria and then do only 1/3 at a time. I
think
> there
> > are enzymes that you can buy at the fish store to put in the
water
> and
> > help clear it up. I've never used enzymes and not sure how good
it
> > works.
> >
> > I have a ten year old oscar and a seven year old "feeder
> goldfish". In
> > separate tanks of course. The feeder fish was too pretty to feed
> to the
> > oscar. I had ten tanks at one time and I've cut back to just two
> tanks.
> >
> > Jackie
> >
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19826 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Hi "Glass_Etch", Just to let you know, depending on what additives
have been introduced to the city water by the water company, the
chemicals may or may not "evaporate" overnight (or 30). While I note
you said "some" of the chemicals, this should not be taken as meaning
the water will necessarily be safe for the aquarium if the water
coimpany has added chloramines. Unless in the presence of already
aerobically decaying organic matter, chloramine will not dissipate
nor be broken down just by sitting. Chlorine, on the other hand
will, and its dissipation can be speeded up with using aeration
and/or giving it a larger surface area. I won't get into rainwater --
it does have its uses, but will lower the TDS -- sometimes
drastically, depending on how much is used. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "glass_etch" <glass_etch@...>
wrote:
>
> I agree with Jackie, let the tank sit and recover on its own. as
long
> as the smell is gone. however if you get the smell back, try
> replacing all the water with either rain water or store bought
spring
> water I recommed rain water I've always had good luck with it.
also
> if you are getting city water let the water set overnight (or two)
> that will let some of the chemicals evaporate out
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, jacquieber4@ wrote:
> >
> > Betty Lou Kline,
> > Maybe using the algae destroyer and changing the filter was just
> too much
> > at one time. The filter has a lot of the good bacteria living in
it
> > also, to keep the bad bacteria down which prevents white water.
> I've
> > read that's it's important not to rinse the filter in hot water
> because
> > of that. You probably did use cool water for rinsing .
> > I had the same problem with white water. I have a 29 gallon tank
> and I
> > accidentally took out 3/4 of the water and replaced it. Within
2
> days
> > it was so cloudy I could hardly see the fish. Only take out 1/3
of
> the
> > water for a water change. The best way to describe it
is....there
> is
> > good bacteria and bad bacteria in the tank. When you remove half
> the
> > water which has the good bacteria in it and you replace it with
new
> > water, the bad bacteria sometimes takes over the tank and the
water
> turns
> > white. I was told to keep the tank lights off and just let it
> clear up.
> > You could put a few drops of ClearWater in it and just let it
> work. I
> > have several tanks and another thing I do is put some water from
a
> good
> > tank into the bad tank . I also do that when I start up a new
tank.
> >
> > The same tank also at one time turned green. It looked like
green
> pea
> > soup and couldn't see the fish. Caused from too much light in
the
> room
> > and I had probably taken out too much water that time too. After
> awhile
> > it all cleared up.
> > I think you should stop doing water changes for awhile and let
the
> water
> > build up the good bacteria and then do only 1/3 at a time. I
think
> there
> > are enzymes that you can buy at the fish store to put in the
water
> and
> > help clear it up. I've never used enzymes and not sure how good
it
> > works.
> >
> > I have a ten year old oscar and a seven year old "feeder
> goldfish". In
> > separate tanks of course. The feeder fish was too pretty to feed
> to the
> > oscar. I had ten tanks at one time and I've cut back to just two
> tanks.
> >
> > Jackie
> >
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19827 From: Rodrigo Jr. Marquez Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: New member
Hello! What plants do you have with your discus and what's your set-up?

Rod

ronno971 <ronno971@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I am not new to auariums but am am new to "groups" and my 155 gallon
planted Discus tankis also new. I have done salt and community fresh
in the past.





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19828 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Good Morning All, and Welcome To Our New Members!!
Hi Everyone, it is great to have you here with us. This is a
fantastic group full of wonderful information. Also, I wanted to tell
you, being a Aquatic Tank Owner myself, I realize how costly this
hobby can be and I have found a way to ensure that I can get some
help. If you all are interested on how to make more money to help
your darling Aquatic babies, please type me OFF THE LIST at
michelle_brown134@.... Please believe me, you will not regret
it. :) Love, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19829 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Good Morning all!

I turned on the lights this am and everyone seemed to be interested
in food this am! The skinny platy and female guppy were even
scrounging a little! I did feed them yesterday, just no lights,
maybe they just didn't feel enough like eating in the dark - who
knows!

As promised here are the results of my 5 point dip stick water test.

Nitrate not quite 20, but did show some color.
Nitrite again not quite .5 but did show some color.
Hardness - flat 0
Alkalinity - 300
pH 8.4

The water is less cloudy today and less smelly, yesterday the smell
was quite overwhelming, and I would not have been at all surprised if
I had lost a fish or two overnight, but they all are present and
swimming about this am.

My filter is what came with the set up - a whisper (tetra?) - pehaps
I mis-stated that it was carbon - perhaps it is charcoal - it's
whatever was OEM, and I just replaced it with the same part number!

This tank was originally to house 2 goldfish which my kids won at a
picnic, we didn't expect them to make it, but also didn't want to put
them in a plain bowl of water either. I had always wanted a set up,
so we went with a 10 gal tank which if the goldies would have made it
should have been plenty big for them, but something we could use for
more than just gold fish if (when) they didn't make it. We got this
in August and populated it in September.

As I stated last night we are on well water with a softner and RO
system.

I have not touched the water, temp or anything since my last post.
My thermostat is a little tempermental and I need to watch it
carefully that it does remember to turn back on before it reaches
freezing!

OK, now I'm cringing as I write this.... don't flame me too badly
here - <squint> I have never messed with the gravel <looking around
to dodge the fire arrows>. In fact when I pulled the hibiscus out to
clean it, I was extra careful not to stir things up too much! I have
moved the cups around to allow the algae eaters to clean underneath
them, but again, was careful not to stir things up. I am currently
unemployed, so we are watching pennies closly, please keep this in
mind before telling me I need a $500.00 vacuum or something! I do
have more than enough new gravel that I could put down if I'm told to.

I was told by the mgr at the LFS that he would not put live plants in
any aquarium, and does not sell them, but has special ordered on
occassion. This is why we opted for fakes. He also told me that the
filter was also an oxygenator / bubbler. My husband had a hard time
swallowing both of these, as it was not what his dad had done in
their fish tank when he was a kid (40 some odd years ago), but that
was his dads and he keeps telling me this is my project, and he is
not one to fight for something if it is not something he knows first
hand.

When I thought my guppy was preggers I read that a live plant is a
better breeding trap, but again didn't go with that since I was going
on what I thought was good information. I did look at some live
plants tho at Pet Supplies Plus, but was/am scared to buy them as
they had so many dead and dying fish in their tanks. I didn't know
if that would have any effect on the plant. I know I won't buy any
fish there based on what I saw that day - even tho they have an
awesome selection!

There is another lfs in the next town who has been in biz for quite a
while. I can go there if I need to, but should be able to do a
special order from the place I usually go to.

Hubby has said that he would not be opposed to a larger tank if/when
I get this figured out, but doesn't want to invest if I keep killing
fish! I think I forgot to mention I amonia poisoned several fish
during the cycling time I did not know about before we stocked the
tank. I have not lost a fish for about a month, and he was one of
the original amonia survivors, except the danios after the algae
destroyer and when this whole stinky water thing started. LFS said
they are pretty delicate tho.

Gotta run now - Happy Thanksgiving, and let me know what is my next
step!!

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19830 From: Beth Brownell Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Puffy mouths on two Angelfishes.
I might have to put them down but they both have very puffy mouths and
they don't look like they are eating, they both look hungry but I don't
think they are eating.
Is this normal for Angelfishes to have puffy mouths? The other
Angelfishes don't have the puffy mouths on them. I checked them all and
none of them have it. This isn't on any of my other Angelfishes so it
might be genetic for these two.
I had noticed it a day ago but I wasn't really sure what it was till
they swam up to the flakes and tried to eat.
Is this normal or should I catch them and put them out of misery?

Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19831 From: Beth Brownell Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Hi Betty,

No flame arrows from me.
I would go to your LFS and get a gravel cleaner. They cost less then
$10.
And the manager who says live plants are not good for fish tank is full
of balony! I would not trust what he says about live plants. The live
plants help get rid of the nitogens in the water or something like that
and plus they really look good in the tank.
The filter does move the water around so it could be considered an
oxygenator as well but I would get a bubble rod to add bubbles to your
tank and also to help move the water around.
I have two bubblers in my 50 gallon tank and my fishes seem to be very
happy with them.

Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19832 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Hi Betty Lou, For starters, I'll just add my comment to your test
readings, and by the way thanks for posting them. I do note though,
that they are not complete. You are still missing one of the most
important test results; that of ammonia. If you do not have test
strips to cover this test, I strongly urge you to either get them or
get a liquid test kit for ammonia.

The hardness and alkalinity test are not that important unless other
problems come into play. I do feel the results of the hardness test
are erroneous, especially since your alkalinity is at 300.
Alkalinity here means buffers -- buffers mean the presence of those
minerals such as calcium and/or magnesium (in one form or another)
which will stabilize the pH and prevent it from dropping. While a
high pH is not always indicative to having higher amounts of these
water hardening minerals, the pH generally goes hand in hand with the
other two readings. As you probably know, its the calcium and
magnesium salts that make the water hard. Your pH of 8.4 goes right
along with this picture. Generally, only rainwater, snow, distilled
water and R/O (reverse osmosis) water have 0 hardness.

The nitrate is fine at or around 20 ppm, well within a normal range,
even if there is some room for improvement. Your nitrite is a tad
high, as this is even more toxic than ammonia. We do need to know an
ammonia reading though -- very important. Ray


"Betty Lou"<mommykline@...> wrote:
>
> Good Morning all!
>
> I turned on the lights this am and everyone seemed to be interested
> in food this am! The skinny platy and female guppy were even
> scrounging a little! I did feed them yesterday, just no lights,
> maybe they just didn't feel enough like eating in the dark - who
> knows!
>
> As promised here are the results of my 5 point dip stick water test.
>
> Nitrate not quite 20, but did show some color.
> Nitrite again not quite .5 but did show some color.
> Hardness - flat 0
> Alkalinity - 300
> pH 8.4
>
> The water is less cloudy today and less smelly, yesterday the smell
> was quite overwhelming, and I would not have been at all surprised
if
> I had lost a fish or two overnight, but they all are present and
> swimming about this am.
>
> My filter is what came with the set up - a whisper (tetra?) -
pehaps
> I mis-stated that it was carbon - perhaps it is charcoal - it's
> whatever was OEM, and I just replaced it with the same part number!
>
> This tank was originally to house 2 goldfish which my kids won at a
> picnic, we didn't expect them to make it, but also didn't want to
put
> them in a plain bowl of water either. I had always wanted a set
up,
> so we went with a 10 gal tank which if the goldies would have made
it
> should have been plenty big for them, but something we could use
for
> more than just gold fish if (when) they didn't make it. We got
this
> in August and populated it in September.
>
> As I stated last night we are on well water with a softner and RO
> system.
>
> I have not touched the water, temp or anything since my last post.
> My thermostat is a little tempermental and I need to watch it
> carefully that it does remember to turn back on before it reaches
> freezing!
>
> OK, now I'm cringing as I write this.... don't flame me too badly
> here - <squint> I have never messed with the gravel <looking around
> to dodge the fire arrows>. In fact when I pulled the hibiscus out
to
> clean it, I was extra careful not to stir things up too much! I
have
> moved the cups around to allow the algae eaters to clean underneath
> them, but again, was careful not to stir things up. I am currently
> unemployed, so we are watching pennies closly, please keep this in
> mind before telling me I need a $500.00 vacuum or something! I do
> have more than enough new gravel that I could put down if I'm told
to.
>
> I was told by the mgr at the LFS that he would not put live plants
in
> any aquarium, and does not sell them, but has special ordered on
> occassion. This is why we opted for fakes. He also told me that
the
> filter was also an oxygenator / bubbler. My husband had a hard
time
> swallowing both of these, as it was not what his dad had done in
> their fish tank when he was a kid (40 some odd years ago), but that
> was his dads and he keeps telling me this is my project, and he is
> not one to fight for something if it is not something he knows
first
> hand.
>
> When I thought my guppy was preggers I read that a live plant is a
> better breeding trap, but again didn't go with that since I was
going
> on what I thought was good information. I did look at some live
> plants tho at Pet Supplies Plus, but was/am scared to buy them as
> they had so many dead and dying fish in their tanks. I didn't know
> if that would have any effect on the plant. I know I won't buy any
> fish there based on what I saw that day - even tho they have an
> awesome selection!
>
> There is another lfs in the next town who has been in biz for quite
a
> while. I can go there if I need to, but should be able to do a
> special order from the place I usually go to.
>
> Hubby has said that he would not be opposed to a larger tank
if/when
> I get this figured out, but doesn't want to invest if I keep
killing
> fish! I think I forgot to mention I amonia poisoned several fish
> during the cycling time I did not know about before we stocked the
> tank. I have not lost a fish for about a month, and he was one of
> the original amonia survivors, except the danios after the algae
> destroyer and when this whole stinky water thing started. LFS said
> they are pretty delicate tho.
>
> Gotta run now - Happy Thanksgiving, and let me know what is my next
> step!!
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> http://www.yourquietretreat.com
> Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19833 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Betty Lou, Hello again -- In going over the rest of your post, it
appears that your main problem is that you have not done any
maintenance on the gravel. While its hard to say, since you just
started having fish in the tank in September, I would not think that
the gravel could be terribly bad as to need replacing, even though it
seems you started out with 2 goldfish (notoriously messy).

Essentially, charcoal is carbon even though it is seldom used any
more, in favor of the latter for those who prefer using it. Again,
it is not needed, although if changed often enough so as to keep
ahead of its limited useful lifespan (impossible to tell it), it will
pull out many of the impurities, but I've already shown its danger.
A probable sure-safe schedule for changing it would be every 2 weeks
under normal conditions, with one month skirting the end (before or
after) of its saturation point. Charcoal is just more porous than
carbon; many hobbyists cut the end of the Whisper filter carbon pad
and either pour out the carbon if they don't want to use it, or buy
the carbon in bulk and replace the bag-like pad with it if that's
what they prefer using -- lots less expensive that way.

By the way, allow its immaterial at this point, since regular or
Comet goldfish can get to 12" (and Fantails, etc. to 10"), 30 gallons
of water per fish is ultimitely recommended to house goldfish.

Since your heater control is tempermental, I'd then leave it alone
foe the time being, but I would suggest your replacing it before
Winter with a quality one, as your fish are only as safe as your
heater's ability to maintain the proper temperature. It just takes
once to either cook the fish or chill them; its cheap insurance.

Now to get to the jist of the problem which I touched on before, and
that is cleaning your gravel, which not having messed with it
obviously needs it. I don't know your present methods of changing
water, so can only advise you accordingly. However, if you are now
using a syphon hose, you can get an attachment for it called
a "Syphon-Clean" or Python "Pro-Clean" which is a large diameter
lucite tube which you push down into the gravel to dislodge the
debris. The first one comes in four sizes and sells for about $5.49
for the medium size and the second one comes in five sizes with the
medium selling for around $4.99. You could instead get the whole
Python water changing hose which attaches to your faucet -- the small
one (25' long) goes for around $26, sometimes on sale for $23. There
are also a number of hand held, battery operated and air-operated
gravel cleaners from $5 to $15 (check < www.thatfishplace.com >
and/or < www.DrsFosterSmith.com >, both reputable on line stores, if
you can't find anything local).

While plants will produce oxygen (during the day), their main
purpose, besides esthetics, is to help take up the nitrogenous by-
products your fish are constantly giving off. You can't always
believe everything that is told to you, even by an otherwise
knowledgeable fish store manager; often his subjective opinion of the
subject at hand leads him to give you a less-than-objective answer or
opinion. It is true that filters can introduce much of the oxygen
that is needed in the aquarium, depending on the disposition of its
outflow. Most of the needed oxygen is absorbed through the surface
of the water (as is any excess carbon dioxide given up through the
water's surface). The faster that the surface can turn over, the
more rapid these gas exchanges may take place. The greater the
current created at the surface by your filter, the greater ease the
surface has in absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide and
other gases. Whisper filters have a sort of spillway; the flow can
be regulated, but additionally an airstone is recommended to help
turn over the surface water. Too, this helps the tank in having a
more uniform temperature from top to bottom -- that that much
difference with a 10 gallon tank, but does help in taller aquariums.

You're propbably right about not buying from stores such as the one
you mentioned (Pet Supplies Plus) if they have lots of dead fish.
This does tell volumes about their aquarium care. The plants can be
disinfected though if they otherwise look especially nice. You can
either let them soak in a solution of Potassium Permanganate (a dye,
so be careful), or a mild bleach solution -- this last method taking
care not to immerse the roots. Have a Happy Thanksgiving, Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...>
wrote:
>
> Good Morning all!
>
> I turned on the lights this am and everyone seemed to be interested
> in food this am! The skinny platy and female guppy were even
> scrounging a little! I did feed them yesterday, just no lights,
> maybe they just didn't feel enough like eating in the dark - who
> knows!
>
> As promised here are the results of my 5 point dip stick water test.
>
> Nitrate not quite 20, but did show some color.
> Nitrite again not quite .5 but did show some color.
> Hardness - flat 0
> Alkalinity - 300
> pH 8.4
>
> The water is less cloudy today and less smelly, yesterday the smell
> was quite overwhelming, and I would not have been at all surprised
if
> I had lost a fish or two overnight, but they all are present and
> swimming about this am.
>
> My filter is what came with the set up - a whisper (tetra?) -
pehaps
> I mis-stated that it was carbon - perhaps it is charcoal - it's
> whatever was OEM, and I just replaced it with the same part number!
>
> This tank was originally to house 2 goldfish which my kids won at a
> picnic, we didn't expect them to make it, but also didn't want to
put
> them in a plain bowl of water either. I had always wanted a set
up,
> so we went with a 10 gal tank which if the goldies would have made
it
> should have been plenty big for them, but something we could use
for
> more than just gold fish if (when) they didn't make it. We got
this
> in August and populated it in September.
>
> As I stated last night we are on well water with a softner and RO
> system.
>
> I have not touched the water, temp or anything since my last post.
> My thermostat is a little tempermental and I need to watch it
> carefully that it does remember to turn back on before it reaches
> freezing!
>
> OK, now I'm cringing as I write this.... don't flame me too badly
> here - <squint> I have never messed with the gravel <looking around
> to dodge the fire arrows>. In fact when I pulled the hibiscus out
to
> clean it, I was extra careful not to stir things up too much! I
have
> moved the cups around to allow the algae eaters to clean underneath
> them, but again, was careful not to stir things up. I am currently
> unemployed, so we are watching pennies closly, please keep this in
> mind before telling me I need a $500.00 vacuum or something! I do
> have more than enough new gravel that I could put down if I'm told
to.
>
> I was told by the mgr at the LFS that he would not put live plants
in
> any aquarium, and does not sell them, but has special ordered on
> occassion. This is why we opted for fakes. He also told me that
the
> filter was also an oxygenator / bubbler. My husband had a hard
time
> swallowing both of these, as it was not what his dad had done in
> their fish tank when he was a kid (40 some odd years ago), but that
> was his dads and he keeps telling me this is my project, and he is
> not one to fight for something if it is not something he knows
first
> hand.
>
> When I thought my guppy was preggers I read that a live plant is a
> better breeding trap, but again didn't go with that since I was
going
> on what I thought was good information. I did look at some live
> plants tho at Pet Supplies Plus, but was/am scared to buy them as
> they had so many dead and dying fish in their tanks. I didn't know
> if that would have any effect on the plant. I know I won't buy any
> fish there based on what I saw that day - even tho they have an
> awesome selection!
>
> There is another lfs in the next town who has been in biz for quite
a
> while. I can go there if I need to, but should be able to do a
> special order from the place I usually go to.
>
> Hubby has said that he would not be opposed to a larger tank
if/when
> I get this figured out, but doesn't want to invest if I keep
killing
> fish! I think I forgot to mention I amonia poisoned several fish
> during the cycling time I did not know about before we stocked the
> tank. I have not lost a fish for about a month, and he was one of
> the original amonia survivors, except the danios after the algae
> destroyer and when this whole stinky water thing started. LFS said
> they are pretty delicate tho.
>
> Gotta run now - Happy Thanksgiving, and let me know what is my next
> step!!
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> http://www.yourquietretreat.com
> Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19834 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Controlling phosphates???
around 500ppb.


----- Original Message -----

What is the phosphate level of your tap water? This would be the first place I would look.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19835 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
The smell most likely is in the gravel why would you not vacuum it? Do you have a syphon?


----- Original Message ----
From: Betty Lou <mommykline@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 10:27:09 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!

Good Morning all!

I turned on the lights this am and everyone seemed to be interested
in food this am! The skinny platy and female guppy were even
scrounging a little! I did feed them yesterday, just no lights,
maybe they just didn't feel enough like eating in the dark - who
knows!

As promised here are the results of my 5 point dip stick water test.

Nitrate not quite 20, but did show some color.
Nitrite again not quite .5 but did show some color.
Hardness - flat 0
Alkalinity - 300
pH 8.4

The water is less cloudy today and less smelly, yesterday the smell
was quite overwhelming, and I would not have been at all surprised if
I had lost a fish or two overnight, but they all are present and
swimming about this am.

My filter is what came with the set up - a whisper (tetra?) - pehaps
I mis-stated that it was carbon - perhaps it is charcoal - it's
whatever was OEM, and I just replaced it with the same part number!

This tank was originally to house 2 goldfish which my kids won at a
picnic, we didn't expect them to make it, but also didn't want to put
them in a plain bowl of water either. I had always wanted a set up,
so we went with a 10 gal tank which if the goldies would have made it
should have been plenty big for them, but something we could use for
more than just gold fish if (when) they didn't make it. We got this
in August and populated it in September.

As I stated last night we are on well water with a softner and RO
system.

I have not touched the water, temp or anything since my last post.
My thermostat is a little tempermental and I need to watch it
carefully that it does remember to turn back on before it reaches
freezing!

OK, now I'm cringing as I write this.... don't flame me too badly
here - <squint> I have never messed with the gravel <looking around
to dodge the fire arrows>. In fact when I pulled the hibiscus out to
clean it, I was extra careful not to stir things up too much! I have
moved the cups around to allow the algae eaters to clean underneath
them, but again, was careful not to stir things up. I am currently
unemployed, so we are watching pennies closly, please keep this in
mind before telling me I need a $500.00 vacuum or something! I do
have more than enough new gravel that I could put down if I'm told to.

I was told by the mgr at the LFS that he would not put live plants in
any aquarium, and does not sell them, but has special ordered on
occassion. This is why we opted for fakes. He also told me that the
filter was also an oxygenator / bubbler. My husband had a hard time
swallowing both of these, as it was not what his dad had done in
their fish tank when he was a kid (40 some odd years ago), but that
was his dads and he keeps telling me this is my project, and he is
not one to fight for something if it is not something he knows first
hand.

When I thought my guppy was preggers I read that a live plant is a
better breeding trap, but again didn't go with that since I was going
on what I thought was good information. I did look at some live
plants tho at Pet Supplies Plus, but was/am scared to buy them as
they had so many dead and dying fish in their tanks. I didn't know
if that would have any effect on the plant. I know I won't buy any
fish there based on what I saw that day - even tho they have an
awesome selection!

There is another lfs in the next town who has been in biz for quite a
while. I can go there if I need to, but should be able to do a
special order from the place I usually go to.

Hubby has said that he would not be opposed to a larger tank if/when
I get this figured out, but doesn't want to invest if I keep killing
fish! I think I forgot to mention I amonia poisoned several fish
during the cycling time I did not know about before we stocked the
tank. I have not lost a fish for about a month, and he was one of
the original amonia survivors, except the danios after the algae
destroyer and when this whole stinky water thing started. LFS said
they are pretty delicate tho.

Gotta run now - Happy Thanksgiving, and let me know what is my next
step!!

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquie tretreat. com
Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!






____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link

Rates near 39yr lows. $420,000 Loan for $1399/mo.
Calcuate new payment. www.LowerMyBills.com/lre


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19836 From: Mel Bowman Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
The reason I didnt give any more information was because nothing else is wrong. I've been testing my water daily for a month. We dont have chlorine in our water - we never have. We do have a small amount of nitrate in our water. pH...good luck with that. My test strips say 8.0, but when my city tested my water a few months ago they insisted that it was neutral, so I have no idea what the heck my pH is. All I know is I get the same readings for nitrate and for pH in my tank and from my tap water. I have no detectable nitrite or ammonia. My water is hard (we don't have a water softener).
Unfortunately, all but one of my mollies had to be euthanized, and now my platys are acting strangely. I dont know if it's the stress from having the mollies removed or if they are also sick. They have become shy and the male in particular seems unwilling to come up to feed (though he'll eat a bit when the flakes fall). I do see some stringy, whiteish poop in them every once in a while. but there are no outward physical indications that anything is wrong...just behavioral.

The loach and the pleco are still acting ok. Previously I'd do 10-20% water changes ever 1-2 weeks. The longest the tank ever went without a water change was I think 4 weeks, but that's when I only had a few small mollies in the tank and the bio load was very low.

I've been doing small water changes every 24-36 hours since this problem started. I dont want to just dose them all with an antibiotic and risk loosing all my beneficial bacteria, but if things dong start getting better I worry I may loose everyone!

Mel


---------------------------------
Sponsored Link

Get an Online or Campus degree - Associate's, Bachelor's, or Master's -in less than one year.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19837 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Puffy mouths on two Angelfishes.
How big are these fish? If it was genereics and they cant eat they would of died a long time ago. If its a bacterial infection you can medicate them. Fish can last up to 10 days without feeding. That could give you enough time to medicate them.


----- Original Message ----
From: Beth Brownell <spencer_creek_studios@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 11:15:56 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Puffy mouths on two Angelfishes.

I might have to put them down but they both have very puffy mouths and
they don't look like they are eating, they both look hungry but I don't
think they are eating.
Is this normal for Angelfishes to have puffy mouths? The other
Angelfishes don't have the puffy mouths on them. I checked them all and
none of them have it. This isn't on any of my other Angelfishes so it
might be genetic for these two.
I had noticed it a day ago but I wasn't really sure what it was till
they swam up to the flakes and tried to eat.
Is this normal or should I catch them and put them out of misery?

Beth




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19838 From: wendie Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
White poop usually means bacterial infection. Follow up on that.
Wendie


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Mel Bowman
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 2:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!


The reason I didnt give any more information was because nothing else is
wrong. I've been testing my water daily for a month. We dont have chlorine
in our water - we never have. We do have a small amount of nitrate in our
water. pH...good luck with that. My test strips say 8.0, but when my city
tested my water a few months ago they insisted that it was neutral, so I
have no idea what the heck my pH is. All I know is I get the same readings
for nitrate and for pH in my tank and from my tap water. I have no
detectable nitrite or ammonia. My water is hard (we don't have a water
softener).
Unfortunately, all but one of my mollies had to be euthanized, and now my
platys are acting strangely. I dont know if it's the stress from having the
mollies removed or if they are also sick. They have become shy and the male
in particular seems unwilling to come up to feed (though he'll eat a bit
when the flakes fall). I do see some stringy, whiteish poop in them every
once in a while. but there are no outward physical indications that anything
is wrong...just behavioral.

The loach and the pleco are still acting ok. Previously I'd do 10-20%
water changes ever 1-2 weeks. The longest the tank ever went without a water
change was I think 4 weeks, but that's when I only had a few small mollies
in the tank and the bio load was very low.

I've been doing small water changes every 24-36 hours since this problem
started. I dont want to just dose them all with an antibiotic and risk
loosing all my beneficial bacteria, but if things dong start getting better
I worry I may loose everyone!

Mel

---------------------------------
Sponsored Link

Get an Online or Campus degree - Associate's, Bachelor's, or Master's -in
less than one year.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19839 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: my albino cory laid eggs
so my albino cory gave me an early christmas present - she laid eggs on the glass wall of her tank. anyone know what i should do now to try (crossing my fingers) to protect the eggs? i have 2 albinos in the tank with her. it looks like 2 females & 1 male, but i'm not positive about that. just that 2 are larger & 1 is quite a bit smaller. all 3 were the same size when i got them earlier this year.

thanks,
valeen


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19840 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Betty Lou,

I snuck a quick peak at your message while at work, and put it aside to
see what may be generated in the way of replies. Not much, I'm afraid,
though I did get out early, relatively speaking, so that when I walked
in about 5 tonight, she said, "Oh, you did get out early!".

Anyhow, there is no need of water conditioner for well water. That
should also explain the highish pH, though I am sure your guppies and
platys are enjoying it, since they do come from areas of hard water.
Your Nitrates are excellent. The nitrite measurement shows that your
tank is still cycling, possibly on the last leg of the odyssey, but,
without an ammonia reading, it is difficult to tell.

I'd question the hardness test, since your pH and alkalinity speak to a
hard water. I'd need to look it up, since it has been a long time since
I have done it, but a simple test for hardness is to place a couple of
ounces of water in a jar or glass, and add dish washing detergent to it,
one drop at a time. After each drop, agitate the water. Repeat until the
dish washing detergent starts to suds up. The number of drops needed
will correlate to the hardness of your water. Oh, I just thought, did
you not mention something about a household water softener? This might
explain it. If you can, you might wish to take your water change water
from a tap prior to the softener to gradually increase the hardness.
This should help with your algae problem as well as make your
livebearers real happy.

Whispers are pretty good filters. The amount of carbon included with the
OEM pads is not really enough to write home about, never mind actually
do any real good. If you need to, there are other ways to add carbon to
the filter. I believe it was Ray who spoke on this a bit back.

You really do need to get the gravel stirred up and cleaned. This is
probably the cause of the smell you wrote about. When you do a water
change, clean up about a quarter to a third of the gravel as you do it.
You'd be surprised at how much gunk will disappear into it over the
course of a few weeks. About this much cleaning will be all that you can
accomplish without draining the tank to do it all while draining water
from the tank.

The LFS guy does have a point abut plants in an aquarium with the local
water parameters you have. It is more difficult to grow plants
successfully in a high pH, hard water. However, it does not mean it
cannot be done. Keep with the plastic until you get some more experience
under your belt, then read everything you can lay your hands on about
plants so you will have a good grounding in what you can do, and what
plants to try with your water conditions.

The book I mentioned--look for it in your local used book store(s). It
will be much less expensive there. I've bought many used fish books. Of
course, when you buy a book published in the 1800's it sorta goes
without saying it is used <g>.

Have a happy Thanksgiving, and remember, no turkey for the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 10:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!

Good Morning all!

I turned on the lights this am and everyone seemed to be interested
in food this am! The skinny platy and female guppy were even
scrounging a little! I did feed them yesterday, just no lights,
maybe they just didn't feel enough like eating in the dark - who
knows!

As promised here are the results of my 5 point dip stick water test.

Nitrate not quite 20, but did show some color.
Nitrite again not quite .5 but did show some color.
Hardness - flat 0
Alkalinity - 300
pH 8.4

The water is less cloudy today and less smelly, yesterday the smell
was quite overwhelming, and I would not have been at all surprised if
I had lost a fish or two overnight, but they all are present and
swimming about this am.

My filter is what came with the set up - a whisper (tetra?) - pehaps
I mis-stated that it was carbon - perhaps it is charcoal - it's
whatever was OEM, and I just replaced it with the same part number!

This tank was originally to house 2 goldfish which my kids won at a
picnic, we didn't expect them to make it, but also didn't want to put
them in a plain bowl of water either. I had always wanted a set up,
so we went with a 10 gal tank which if the goldies would have made it
should have been plenty big for them, but something we could use for
more than just gold fish if (when) they didn't make it. We got this
in August and populated it in September.

As I stated last night we are on well water with a softner and RO
system.

I have not touched the water, temp or anything since my last post.
My thermostat is a little tempermental and I need to watch it
carefully that it does remember to turn back on before it reaches
freezing!

OK, now I'm cringing as I write this.... don't flame me too badly
here - <squint> I have never messed with the gravel <looking around
to dodge the fire arrows>. In fact when I pulled the hibiscus out to
clean it, I was extra careful not to stir things up too much! I have
moved the cups around to allow the algae eaters to clean underneath
them, but again, was careful not to stir things up. I am currently
unemployed, so we are watching pennies closly, please keep this in
mind before telling me I need a $500.00 vacuum or something! I do
have more than enough new gravel that I could put down if I'm told to.

I was told by the mgr at the LFS that he would not put live plants in
any aquarium, and does not sell them, but has special ordered on
occassion. This is why we opted for fakes. He also told me that the
filter was also an oxygenator / bubbler. My husband had a hard time
swallowing both of these, as it was not what his dad had done in
their fish tank when he was a kid (40 some odd years ago), but that
was his dads and he keeps telling me this is my project, and he is
not one to fight for something if it is not something he knows first
hand.

When I thought my guppy was preggers I read that a live plant is a
better breeding trap, but again didn't go with that since I was going
on what I thought was good information. I did look at some live
plants tho at Pet Supplies Plus, but was/am scared to buy them as
they had so many dead and dying fish in their tanks. I didn't know
if that would have any effect on the plant. I know I won't buy any
fish there based on what I saw that day - even tho they have an
awesome selection!

There is another lfs in the next town who has been in biz for quite a
while. I can go there if I need to, but should be able to do a
special order from the place I usually go to.

Hubby has said that he would not be opposed to a larger tank if/when
I get this figured out, but doesn't want to invest if I keep killing
fish! I think I forgot to mention I amonia poisoned several fish
during the cycling time I did not know about before we stocked the
tank. I have not lost a fish for about a month, and he was one of
the original amonia survivors, except the danios after the algae
destroyer and when this whole stinky water thing started. LFS said
they are pretty delicate tho.

Gotta run now - Happy Thanksgiving, and let me know what is my next
step!!

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19841 From: Aaron Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: The Greater Chicago Cichlid Association's Swap Meet is this Sunday!
Hello Aquarium Friend,

You can buy fish and still get home in time to watch the Chicago
Bears game . . . it doesn't start until 3:15 PM.

The Swap Meet is a great place to learn more about cichlids, meet
other cichlid-keepers and share tips and tricks about our hobby. And,
there's a great selection of tropical fish, dry goods, plants, food
and equipment.

We also will be distributing flyers from area pet stores with
discount coupons. Just in time for the holidays!

Want to sell at the swap meet? We have a few tables left . .
Reserve a table online at <http://www.gcca.net/srs>.

WHEN
Sunday, November 26

TIME
10 AM to 3 PM
Hint: Arrive early for the best selection.

WHERE
Sheraton Chicago Northwest (LOWER LEVEL)
3400 West Euclid Avenue, Arlington Heights, IL
Phone (847) 394-2000

IL-53 and Euclid Avenue

COST
$3.00 per person / $5.00 per family at the door
All sales are final between the buyer and the seller.

MORE INFO & DIRECTIONS
<http://www.gcca.net/swapmeet.htm>

CONTACT
Rick Borstein at 847 634 2443 or email webmaster@....

WHAT WILL I FIND AT THE SWAP MEET?
Check out the vendors and what they are bringing at <http://
www.gcca.net/srs/index.php?action=view>

FINALLY
Happy Thanksgiving from the Greater Chicago Cichlid Association

------------------------
Rick Borstein
GCCA Webmaster
webmaster@...
-----------------------
-
The Greater Chicago Cichlid Association -- GCCA -- is a non-profit,
educational organization, chartered in the state of Illinois,
dedicated
to the advancement and dissemination of information relating to the
biology of the fishes in the family Cichlidae, with particular
emphasis
on maintenance and breeding in captivity. We are simply cichlid
hobbyists who love cichlids!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19842 From: Beth Brownell Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Puffy mouths on two Angelfishes.
Hi Joseph,

These two are about an inch big (actaully all of the Angelfishes in
the tank is about that big and it is overstocked by two) and the
puffiness is only on the upper part of their mouths.
The tank is a 30 gallon and has a sixty gallon tank filter on it.
I checked my fifty gallon tank and none of the two Angelfishes that I
took from the 30 gallon has the puffy mouth nor the small size.
What should I look for in medication? I gave the tank Rescue Remedy
in hopes to shake their imune system awake and fight whatever this
might be just ten minutes ago.

Beth
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> How big are these fish? If it was genereics and they cant eat they
would of died a long time ago. If its a bacterial infection you can
medicate them. Fish can last up to 10 days without feeding. That
could give you enough time to medicate them.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Beth Brownell <spencer_creek_studios@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 11:15:56 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Puffy mouths on two Angelfishes.
>
> I might have to put them down but they both have very puffy mouths
and they don't look like they are eating, they both look hungry but I
don't think they are eating.
> Is this normal for Angelfishes to have puffy mouths? The other
Angelfishes don't have the puffy mouths on them. I checked them all
and none of them have it. This isn't on any of my other Angelfishes
so it might be genetic for these two.
> I had noticed it a day ago but I wasn't really sure what it was
till they swam up to the flakes and tried to eat.
> Is this normal or should I catch them and put them out of misery?
>
> Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19843 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Are you testing your tank and your tap water seperately, because they would be different.


----- Original Message ----
From: Mel Bowman <swismiself@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 2:54:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!

The reason I didnt give any more information was because nothing else is wrong. I've been testing my water daily for a month. We dont have chlorine in our water - we never have. We do have a small amount of nitrate in our water. pH...good luck with that. My test strips say 8.0, but when my city tested my water a few months ago they insisted that it was neutral, so I have no idea what the heck my pH is. All I know is I get the same readings for nitrate and for pH in my tank and from my tap water. I have no detectable nitrite or ammonia. My water is hard (we don't have a water softener).
Unfortunately, all but one of my mollies had to be euthanized, and now my platys are acting strangely. I dont know if it's the stress from having the mollies removed or if they are also sick. They have become shy and the male in particular seems unwilling to come up to feed (though he'll eat a bit when the flakes fall). I do see some stringy, whiteish poop in them every once in a while. but there are no outward physical indications that anything is wrong...just behavioral.

The loach and the pleco are still acting ok. Previously I'd do 10-20% water changes ever 1-2 weeks. The longest the tank ever went without a water change was I think 4 weeks, but that's when I only had a few small mollies in the tank and the bio load was very low.

I've been doing small water changes every 24-36 hours since this problem started. I dont want to just dose them all with an antibiotic and risk loosing all my beneficial bacteria, but if things dong start getting better I worry I may loose everyone!

Mel

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19844 From: n9010d Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: my albino cory laid eggs
Hi;

Set up a small bare tank, about 5 gal or less, with an air supply set
at low and with no gravel in the tank , also have a heater in there set
around 72 to 76 Deg. (f).

Take a signel sided rasor blade and scrape the
eggs off the side of your tank, catch them and place in new small tank.
In a few days the fry will hatch, feed with first bites and enjoy the
fun.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19845 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Another Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
OK!

I made a special trip over to South Bend tonight and got the following:
6 inch air stone and tubing (I already have the compressor unit)
Siphon-Kleen Gravel Vacuum
and a Marineland Penguin 100 BIO-Weheel Power Filter for up to 20 gal
tank.

Why did I get a new filter? When I looked at the current filter this
evening the "blocked" indicator was up. I tried cleaning the poly pad
and couldn't get it to go down with that particular filter in place.
Also, that filter box STUNK STUNK STUNK - way more than I thought it
should with having just cleaned it. My water is also quite rancid
again tonight.

What do I do first, the vacuum & water change or the possibly
malfunctioning pump.

When I change the pump should I run them side by side for a while?

I have the air stone in there already, but just resting on the top of
the gravel. I want to bury it at some point.

I'm a little concerned about intoducing new live things right now,
although I did look at real plants.

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19846 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: my albino cory laid eggs
Oh how fun, I'm busy with problems of my own, but I sure hope I get
some babies from some of these - I know I have a pair of guppies, but
really not sure about any of the others - I think the platys are both
male, and like you said it's hard to tell on the cory's!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Valeen Gonzalez
<valeendgonzalez@...> wrote:
>
> so my albino cory gave me an early christmas present - she laid
eggs on the glass wall of her tank. anyone know what i should do now
to try (crossing my fingers) to protect the eggs? i have 2 albinos in
the tank with her. it looks like 2 females & 1 male, but i'm not
positive about that. just that 2 are larger & 1 is quite a bit
smaller. all 3 were the same size when i got them earlier this year.
>
> thanks,
> valeen
>
>
> Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
> valeendgonzalez@...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19848 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Another Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
The sequence of maintenance procedures is not too important, although
its best if all is completed in one session. By "malfunctioning
pump," I can only presume you mean filter. Since the filter can't be
operated anyway with the water only partially filled in the tank
(which is what's going to happen as you draw it down), you may as
well start with cleaning the gravel, finishing that part up with
completing the water change. Then concentrate on the filters.

Running them both side by side for at while (several weeks) would be
best, with rinsing the filter pad in the old filter in aquarium water
in between only if really necessary. When cleaning the gravel, only
do one half of the tank this week, then the other half of the tank
next week to preserve the aerobic bacteria on top, even though all of
it probably needs a good cleaning.

Both we and you still need to know what the ammonia level is. Next
time you're out, it would be a good idea to get an ammonia test kit.
Don't be too concerned with "burying" the airstone right now. That
can be done after all the gravel is cleaned, but when it is done it
should only be covered with as little gravel as possible. I presume
you want it hidden for esthetic reasons.

I wouldn't worry about the plants yet at this point until you get
things cleaned up. I did notice you are using R/O water so that
accounts for the 0 hardness reading, although its then puzzling how
your alkalinity (buffering capacity) could be so elevated if you
supposedly have little in the way of calcium or magnesium minerals as
is suggested you have with a reading of 300 ppm. Please check the
expiration date on your test strips or consider getting liquid test
kits, as these two results seem erroneous and conflicting. The pH is
understandably high in any case, reflecting the water's source, but
is still within limits of many aquarium fish. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...>
wrote:
>
> OK!
>
> I made a special trip over to South Bend tonight and got the
following:
> 6 inch air stone and tubing (I already have the compressor unit)
> Siphon-Kleen Gravel Vacuum
> and a Marineland Penguin 100 BIO-Weheel Power Filter for up to 20
gal
> tank.
>
> Why did I get a new filter? When I looked at the current filter
this
> evening the "blocked" indicator was up. I tried cleaning the poly
pad
> and couldn't get it to go down with that particular filter in
place.
> Also, that filter box STUNK STUNK STUNK - way more than I thought
it
> should with having just cleaned it. My water is also quite rancid
> again tonight.
>
> What do I do first, the vacuum & water change or the possibly
> malfunctioning pump.
>
> When I change the pump should I run them side by side for a while?
>
> I have the air stone in there already, but just resting on the top
of
> the gravel. I want to bury it at some point.
>
> I'm a little concerned about intoducing new live things right now,
> although I did look at real plants.
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> http://www.yourquietretreat.com
> Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19849 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: my albino cory laid eggs
thank you, i will do that right away.

-valeen

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "n9010d" <fredrhoda@...> wrote:
>
> Hi;
>
> Set up a small bare tank, about 5 gal or less, with an air supply set
> at low and with no gravel in the tank , also have a heater in there
set
> around 72 to 76 Deg. (f).
>
> Take a signel sided rasor blade and scrape the
> eggs off the side of your tank, catch them and place in new small
tank.
> In a few days the fry will hatch, feed with first bites and enjoy the
> fun.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19850 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/22/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Ray,

What, no mention of the alum solution to clean up plants?

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 2:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank -
Help!

Betty Lou, Hello again -- In going over the rest of your post, it
appears that your main problem is that you have not done any
maintenance on the gravel. While its hard to say, since you just
started having fish in the tank in September, I would not think that
the gravel could be terribly bad as to need replacing, even though it
seems you started out with 2 goldfish (notoriously messy).

Essentially, charcoal is carbon even though it is seldom used any
more, in favor of the latter for those who prefer using it. Again,
it is not needed, although if changed often enough so as to keep
ahead of its limited useful lifespan (impossible to tell it), it will
pull out many of the impurities, but I've already shown its danger.
A probable sure-safe schedule for changing it would be every 2 weeks
under normal conditions, with one month skirting the end (before or
after) of its saturation point. Charcoal is just more porous than
carbon; many hobbyists cut the end of the Whisper filter carbon pad
and either pour out the carbon if they don't want to use it, or buy
the carbon in bulk and replace the bag-like pad with it if that's
what they prefer using -- lots less expensive that way.

By the way, allow its immaterial at this point, since regular or
Comet goldfish can get to 12" (and Fantails, etc. to 10"), 30 gallons
of water per fish is ultimitely recommended to house goldfish.

Since your heater control is tempermental, I'd then leave it alone
foe the time being, but I would suggest your replacing it before
Winter with a quality one, as your fish are only as safe as your
heater's ability to maintain the proper temperature. It just takes
once to either cook the fish or chill them; its cheap insurance.

Now to get to the jist of the problem which I touched on before, and
that is cleaning your gravel, which not having messed with it
obviously needs it. I don't know your present methods of changing
water, so can only advise you accordingly. However, if you are now
using a syphon hose, you can get an attachment for it called
a "Syphon-Clean" or Python "Pro-Clean" which is a large diameter
lucite tube which you push down into the gravel to dislodge the
debris. The first one comes in four sizes and sells for about $5.49
for the medium size and the second one comes in five sizes with the
medium selling for around $4.99. You could instead get the whole
Python water changing hose which attaches to your faucet -- the small
one (25' long) goes for around $26, sometimes on sale for $23. There
are also a number of hand held, battery operated and air-operated
gravel cleaners from $5 to $15 (check < www.thatfishplace.com >
and/or < www.DrsFosterSmith.com >, both reputable on line stores, if
you can't find anything local).

While plants will produce oxygen (during the day), their main
purpose, besides esthetics, is to help take up the nitrogenous by-
products your fish are constantly giving off. You can't always
believe everything that is told to you, even by an otherwise
knowledgeable fish store manager; often his subjective opinion of the
subject at hand leads him to give you a less-than-objective answer or
opinion. It is true that filters can introduce much of the oxygen
that is needed in the aquarium, depending on the disposition of its
outflow. Most of the needed oxygen is absorbed through the surface
of the water (as is any excess carbon dioxide given up through the
water's surface). The faster that the surface can turn over, the
more rapid these gas exchanges may take place. The greater the
current created at the surface by your filter, the greater ease the
surface has in absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide and
other gases. Whisper filters have a sort of spillway; the flow can
be regulated, but additionally an airstone is recommended to help
turn over the surface water. Too, this helps the tank in having a
more uniform temperature from top to bottom -- that that much
difference with a 10 gallon tank, but does help in taller aquariums.

You're propbably right about not buying from stores such as the one
you mentioned (Pet Supplies Plus) if they have lots of dead fish.
This does tell volumes about their aquarium care. The plants can be
disinfected though if they otherwise look especially nice. You can
either let them soak in a solution of Potassium Permanganate (a dye,
so be careful), or a mild bleach solution -- this last method taking
care not to immerse the roots. Have a Happy Thanksgiving, Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...>
wrote:
>
> Good Morning all!
>
> I turned on the lights this am and everyone seemed to be interested
> in food this am! The skinny platy and female guppy were even
> scrounging a little! I did feed them yesterday, just no lights,
> maybe they just didn't feel enough like eating in the dark - who
> knows!
>
> As promised here are the results of my 5 point dip stick water test.
>
> Nitrate not quite 20, but did show some color.
> Nitrite again not quite .5 but did show some color.
> Hardness - flat 0
> Alkalinity - 300
> pH 8.4
>
> The water is less cloudy today and less smelly, yesterday the smell
> was quite overwhelming, and I would not have been at all surprised
if
> I had lost a fish or two overnight, but they all are present and
> swimming about this am.
>
> My filter is what came with the set up - a whisper (tetra?) -
pehaps
> I mis-stated that it was carbon - perhaps it is charcoal - it's
> whatever was OEM, and I just replaced it with the same part number!
>
> This tank was originally to house 2 goldfish which my kids won at a
> picnic, we didn't expect them to make it, but also didn't want to
put
> them in a plain bowl of water either. I had always wanted a set
up,
> so we went with a 10 gal tank which if the goldies would have made
it
> should have been plenty big for them, but something we could use
for
> more than just gold fish if (when) they didn't make it. We got
this
> in August and populated it in September.
>
> As I stated last night we are on well water with a softner and RO
> system.
>
> I have not touched the water, temp or anything since my last post.
> My thermostat is a little tempermental and I need to watch it
> carefully that it does remember to turn back on before it reaches
> freezing!
>
> OK, now I'm cringing as I write this.... don't flame me too badly
> here - <squint> I have never messed with the gravel <looking around
> to dodge the fire arrows>. In fact when I pulled the hibiscus out
to
> clean it, I was extra careful not to stir things up too much! I
have
> moved the cups around to allow the algae eaters to clean underneath
> them, but again, was careful not to stir things up. I am currently
> unemployed, so we are watching pennies closly, please keep this in
> mind before telling me I need a $500.00 vacuum or something! I do
> have more than enough new gravel that I could put down if I'm told
to.
>
> I was told by the mgr at the LFS that he would not put live plants
in
> any aquarium, and does not sell them, but has special ordered on
> occassion. This is why we opted for fakes. He also told me that
the
> filter was also an oxygenator / bubbler. My husband had a hard
time
> swallowing both of these, as it was not what his dad had done in
> their fish tank when he was a kid (40 some odd years ago), but that
> was his dads and he keeps telling me this is my project, and he is
> not one to fight for something if it is not something he knows
first
> hand.
>
> When I thought my guppy was preggers I read that a live plant is a
> better breeding trap, but again didn't go with that since I was
going
> on what I thought was good information. I did look at some live
> plants tho at Pet Supplies Plus, but was/am scared to buy them as
> they had so many dead and dying fish in their tanks. I didn't know
> if that would have any effect on the plant. I know I won't buy any
> fish there based on what I saw that day - even tho they have an
> awesome selection!
>
> There is another lfs in the next town who has been in biz for quite
a
> while. I can go there if I need to, but should be able to do a
> special order from the place I usually go to.
>
> Hubby has said that he would not be opposed to a larger tank
if/when
> I get this figured out, but doesn't want to invest if I keep
killing
> fish! I think I forgot to mention I amonia poisoned several fish
> during the cycling time I did not know about before we stocked the
> tank. I have not lost a fish for about a month, and he was one of
> the original amonia survivors, except the danios after the algae
> destroyer and when this whole stinky water thing started. LFS said
> they are pretty delicate tho.
>
> Gotta run now - Happy Thanksgiving, and let me know what is my next
> step!!
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> http://www.yourquietretreat.com
> Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19851 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Re: Controlling phosphates???
Hmmm, after doing a bit of research here, all the test kits I find
measure in ppm or mg/l, which, for our intents and purposes seem to be
interchangeable. The articles I have read all talk about phosphates in
mg/l.

The question here is do you really mean that you have 500 ppm for your
tap water measurement? Or is it really something like 0.5 ppm?

One source of phosphates is the tap water where orthophosphate is added
to coat the pipes that municipal water travels through to reach your
tap. This helps prevent deterioration of the pipes and also coats any
lead that may have been used in years past that may otherwise elevate
the lead content of the water.

Now, the question I need to raise is the measurement of the phosphates
in your tank. In your original post you noted that the levels were
elevated. However, you did not share your measurement with us. (I had to
go back to find the message since you inconveniently clipped the
previous messages from your reply.) How is this raised level affecting
your tank? Do you see an increase in algae? Do you see an increase in
other plant growth?

Another source of phosphate is from activated carbon, from what I have
seen posted on the web. Do you use this in your tank? If so, why are you
using it? If you are a regular reader of messages here, you should have
noted that activated carbon is not recommended, except in specific
instances.

What can you do to eliminate the excess phosphate? There are products
out there that claim to help in this matter, but I have never used any,
so I cannot make a recommendation. You can look for foods that contain
little in the way of phosphates. Stop using carbon if you are doing so,
unless there is a need for doing so. Water changes are unlikely to help
this time around, unless you can get it from another source, which is
rather a bother. You can try adding more live plants to the tank, but
this would be a slow process of elimination.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 6:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Controlling phosphates???

around 500ppb.


----- Original Message -----

What is the phosphate level of your tap water? This would be the first
place I would look.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19852 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
I've not really followed this thread, but your comment about not having
chlorine in your tap water struck me, especially after you mentioned
that the city got into the act. If you have municipal water, you have
either chlorine or chloramines in your water. They need to use one or
the other to meet various federal and state regulations. Most water
utilities have now switched to using chloramines for water treatment. I
do not know of any water utilities that do not use one or the other. If
you are sure you do not have chlorine in the water, you then have
chloramines, and this needs to be neutralized with the use of a good
water conditioner.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Mel Bowman
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 2:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!

The reason I didnt give any more information was because nothing else is
wrong. I've been testing my water daily for a month. We dont have
chlorine in our water - we never have. We do have a small amount of
nitrate in our water. pH...good luck with that. My test strips say 8.0,
but when my city tested my water a few months ago they insisted that it
was neutral, so I have no idea what the heck my pH is. All I know is I
get the same readings for nitrate and for pH in my tank and from my tap
water. I have no detectable nitrite or ammonia. My water is hard (we
don't have a water softener).
Unfortunately, all but one of my mollies had to be euthanized, and now
my platys are acting strangely. I dont know if it's the stress from
having the mollies removed or if they are also sick. They have become
shy and the male in particular seems unwilling to come up to feed
(though he'll eat a bit when the flakes fall). I do see some stringy,
whiteish poop in them every once in a while. but there are no outward
physical indications that anything is wrong...just behavioral.

The loach and the pleco are still acting ok. Previously I'd do 10-20%
water changes ever 1-2 weeks. The longest the tank ever went without a
water change was I think 4 weeks, but that's when I only had a few small
mollies in the tank and the bio load was very low.

I've been doing small water changes every 24-36 hours since this
problem started. I dont want to just dose them all with an antibiotic
and risk loosing all my beneficial bacteria, but if things dong start
getting better I worry I may loose everyone!

Mel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19853 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Cloudy Stinky water going away - Thanks!!
Well, I did the 25% water change and 1/3 gravel cleaning last night. I
also installe the new filter side by side with the old filter.

I lost the sickly platy overnight, but the water looks better and best
of all the stink is much improved! The other fish seem to be quite
happy. The Ch Alg Eat had been quite listless with the cloudy water,
and they are back to chasing each other. I will see what I can work
out to get these swapped out for another kind of fish - I want to make
sure they are not sick tho, as if I do get babies, I don't want to be
black listed at the lfs for poor quality fish, since I may be asking
them to buy them!

It seems that my filter may have been causing my problems, since 2/3 of
the gravel is yet untouched. I will be monitoring things closly and
playing with my temperature to bring it down today. How long should I
run the dual filteration before taking out the old filter?

Betty Lou
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19854 From: Mel Bowman Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Re: Trouble with mollies! Emergency!
Steve,
There is no chlorine or chloramine in my water! I live in a rural village in the middle of nowhere Wisconsin. I have tested my water repeadedly, checked with the yearly water quality reports, and even asked several council members. The only thing we have in our water is a slight nitrate reading due to all the farms in the area. That's why when I compare tests from my tap water to that of my tank, my nitrate reading is equal in both. They do not add chlorine or chloramine to our water.

My platys are improving, especially the two females. Even the male has started eating again and doing more playing. I have been suspecting a bacterial infection, but much of what I've read suggested that I just do daily water changes and try to avoid medications that may destroy my beneficial bacteria and result in a nitrite or ammonia spike. I'm open to suggestions on this one.

Mel


---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19855 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy Stinky water going away - Thanks!!
I'd probably run side by side for a couple of weeks.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2006 9:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Stinky water going away - Thanks!!

Well, I did the 25% water change and 1/3 gravel cleaning last night. I
also installe the new filter side by side with the old filter.

I lost the sickly platy overnight, but the water looks better and best
of all the stink is much improved! The other fish seem to be quite
happy. The Ch Alg Eat had been quite listless with the cloudy water,
and they are back to chasing each other. I will see what I can work
out to get these swapped out for another kind of fish - I want to make
sure they are not sick tho, as if I do get babies, I don't want to be
black listed at the lfs for poor quality fish, since I may be asking
them to buy them!

It seems that my filter may have been causing my problems, since 2/3 of
the gravel is yet untouched. I will be monitoring things closly and
playing with my temperature to bring it down today. How long should I
run the dual filteration before taking out the old filter?

Betty Lou
http://www.yourquietretreat.com





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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19856 From: Beth Brownell Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Re: Puffy mouths on two Angelfishes.
I finally took a photo of one of my puffy mouthed Angelfishes.
The photo is seen here:
http://www.desert.f-realm.com/puffymouth.jpg
Sorry for the slightly blurriness of it but he was moving when I
snapped the photo.
The puffiness on his mouth look hard and ridged like. He did eat but
only to spit it out.
Since the stores are closed today, I have to wait till tomorrow to see
the guys at my local fish store which happens to be an hour drive to
get there. My local dealership closed up shop early this year.

Beth
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Brownell"
<spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
>
> I might have to put them down but they both have very puffy mouths
and
> they don't look like they are eating, they both look hungry but I
don't
> think they are eating.
> Is this normal for Angelfishes to have puffy mouths? The other
> Angelfishes don't have the puffy mouths on them. I checked them all
and
> none of them have it. This isn't on any of my other Angelfishes so it
> might be genetic for these two.
> I had noticed it a day ago but I wasn't really sure what it was till
> they swam up to the flakes and tried to eat.
> Is this normal or should I catch them and put them out of misery?
>
> Beth
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19857 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/23/2006
Subject: Silver feces in goldfish
My parents are watching my aquarium and my mom noticed one of the comet
goldfish with a string of silver feces hanging off the anus. Obviously, the
string of feces is normal since it's a planted tank and the goldfish nibble
the plants all day, but the color concerns me.

The aquarium was just moved to my parents house on Nov. 18th and the silver
feces were noticed in only one of several fish on Nov. 21st. I have not
seen the fish since last weekend but my mom described it as the color of
mercury (in a thermometer) with a metallic look. This same fish had a
similar symptom a month or so ago but I assumed that it was because I had
fed them some scuds. This particular fish is a little thinner than the
others but seems healthy and acting normal in all other respects.

I don't think it's water related because I do regular partial water
changes and the tank has been established for about a year and a half (I
saved most of the water during the move and all of the gravel obviously).
The fish have been treated in the last couple of months with both
antibacterial and antiparasite food (not at the same time).

Any ideas on what could be causing this and what to do?
Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19858 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/24/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
I could not find anything on silver feces in (actually, more likely out
of) goldfish, but did run across this diagnostic chart which may help to
some extent;

http://www.fishyfarmacy.com/fish_diseases/fecal_disorders.html


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19859 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/24/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
I have seen that chart and the only symtom they have is the dragging feces.
However, all my goldfish (and only the goldfish, even when living with other
kinds of fish) have always had dragging feces and I thought that was because
goldfish are constantly eating...???
Emily


On 11/24/06, Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I could not find anything on silver feces in (actually, more likely out
> of) goldfish, but did run across this diagnostic chart which may help to
> some extent;
>
> http://www.fishyfarmacy.com/fish_diseases/fecal_disorders.html
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19860 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/24/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Could the silver feces have been air??? When mine
have "gas" the feeces look silver. The air is trapped
in the mucus that comes out with feeces and it looks
silver.

--- Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote:

> I have seen that chart and the only symtom they have
> is the dragging feces.
> However, all my goldfish (and only the goldfish,
> even when living with other
> kinds of fish) have always had dragging feces and I
> thought that was because
> goldfish are constantly eating...???
> Emily
>
>
> On 11/24/06, Steve Szabo <steve@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I could not find anything on silver feces in
> (actually, more likely out
> > of) goldfish, but did run across this diagnostic
> chart which may help to
> > some extent;
> >
> >
>
http://www.fishyfarmacy.com/fish_diseases/fecal_disorders.html
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19861 From: nicolebitan17 Date: 11/24/2006
Subject: Hello
Hi, My name is Nicole. Just join in the group. New kid in the block. I
am trying to know about Discus Fish food. What is the best in the
market and the actual pricing? ANyone can help me on this?

Nicole.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19862 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/24/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Hmm that's possible, since they get floating flake food, but it's curious
that the other goldfish has never had the silver feces. Should I be
concerned that the other is so much fatter than the the one with the silver
feces?
Emily


On 11/24/06, Melissa Laing <fyyr@...> wrote:
>
> Could the silver feces have been air??? When mine
> have "gas" the feeces look silver. The air is trapped
> in the mucus that comes out with feeces and it looks
> silver.
> .
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19863 From: M G Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Hey everyone, I'm also new. And I have a similar question. I have the new addition of three Discus to my "family" as of last week, and have tried two different brands of Discus pellets that they'll do nothing more with than spit out as soon as it gets in their mouths. Instead I've been feeding them frozen blood worms and daphnia, and I've also discovered they're happy to eat the flakes I feed my tropical fish, when it floats down beneath the surface. Is there a form of discus flake food? Is it OK for them to live primarily off of frozen foods? Do I keep trying to get them to eat the discus pellets, in the hopes of them eventually, some day NOT spitting them out?

Thanks,
Megan

nicolebitan17 <nicolebitan17@...> wrote: Hi, My name is Nicole. Just join in the group. New kid in the block. I
am trying to know about Discus Fish food. What is the best in the
market and the actual pricing? ANyone can help me on this?

Nicole.






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19864 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Normally goldfish, or any other fish, should not be dragging feces. It should be expelled completely from the body.


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19865 From: Hope Livingston Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Things dying..
Hello all..
Can't figure out what we're doing wrong here..
Everything reads fine..on the 5 in 1 strips..
Our yellow tang lasted about 2 weeks..we had a bahama
starfish..lasted about 2 weeks..
The clown fish, damsel, chromis and mushroom corals
are all fine..
Will not acclimating them long enough cause them to
die after a couple of weeks??
I thought the one damsel we had, (devil fish) had
something to do with the tang dying..He was quite
mean..would attack him..think he majorly stressed the
tang out..But can't figure out bout the starfish..

Any ideas??
Hope,




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19866 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
On Sunday 26 November 2006 11:59, Hope Livingston wrote:
> Hello all..
> Can't figure out what we're doing wrong here..
> Everything reads fine..on the 5 in 1 strips..
> Our yellow tang lasted about 2 weeks..we had a bahama
> starfish..lasted about 2 weeks..
> The clown fish, damsel, chromis and mushroom corals
> are all fine..
> Will not acclimating them long enough cause them to
> die after a couple of weeks??
> I thought the one damsel we had, (devil fish) had
> something to do with the tang dying..He was quite
> mean..would attack him..think he majorly stressed the
> tang out..But can't figure out bout the starfish..

That's why I stick to freshwater :)

But I've heard tangs are hard and clowns are relatively easy?

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19867 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Do they ever swim funny? Like sideways? Upsidedown?
Hmmm, I'm sorry, I don't remember if you posted what
size tank they live in?
Melissa

--- Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote:

> Hmm that's possible, since they get floating flake
> food, but it's curious
> that the other goldfish has never had the silver
> feces. Should I be
> concerned that the other is so much fatter than the
> the one with the silver
> feces?
> Emily
>
>
> On 11/24/06, Melissa Laing <fyyr@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Could the silver feces have been air??? When
> mine
> > have "gas" the feeces look silver. The air is
> trapped
> > in the mucus that comes out with feeces and it
> looks
> > silver.
> > .
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19868 From: annja_1966 Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Hi Betty!
If your husband isn't opposed to a bigger tank, then get one! Don't
buy any more fish though...let the ones you have live in at least
double the amount of water they have right now, and cut the trouble
for you in half. The more water you can give a fish, the better. The
tank will actually be easier to maintain.
Live plants are bad for an aquarium...? Gee, somebody needs to tell
my plants and fish that they are not supposed to do so well! I've
been having a jungle of java fern going for nine years, my cherry
barbs are at least four years old, the koohli loaches between six
and seven years. One thing that can go wrong with live plants is
that the lighting is inadequate and they turn to mush. You need good
bulbs and/or hardy plants.



















--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...>
wrote:
>
> I have a 10 gal tank with 2 guppies, 2 platy, 2 chinese algae
eaters,
> and 2 albino catfish.
>
> Over the past 2 weeks I have had a horrible cloudy water.
>
> I thought it was related to the algae growth on the artificial hot
> pink hibiscus, I had cleaned it a couple of weeks earlier in the
> bathroom sink with water from our RO system and just rubbing and
> scraping it with my fingernails (read no chemicals). You couldn't
> see that it was pink it was so green. I added Algae destroyer and
a
> pinch - about 10 kernels of aquarium salt that helped the green
> cloud, but now I have a milky white cloud.
>
> I have done 1/2 water changes 2 times a week for about 2 weeks and
> the last time the water smelled like my son's stinky diaper. I
about
> lost my dinner but knew it had to be done. I examined everything
> very carefully - made each of the fish swim away. I don't have
> anything dead in it as I would have thought from the foul smell. I
> called my LFS and they said no more chemicals just 1/2 water
changes
> to clear the water, but didn't say what frequency.
>
> My glass is crystal clear on the top half when I take out the 50%,
> and the bottom is a good match when the water is 100% so it's not
a
> build up on the glass.
>
> I changed my carbon poly filter when I bought the algae
destroyer. I
> washed the other filter pads under clear tap water (water softner)
> the next water change. Tonight I took the whole filter apart and
> rinsed / rubbed it under clear tap water.
>
> Current Tank conditions:
>
> Great Nitrite and Nitrate level, soft water but ph is high before
my
> last water change - haven't taken a test today.
>
> Water temp is 81/80ish
>
> Hibiscus is back to mostly green. One other thin leafed green
> artificial plant and 2 glass, 2 plastic cups for "caves" and
color -
> these are clear and clean.
>
> 1 platy looks like death warmed over - looks like he is starving,
a
> floating skeleton, but he is the first one to eat during feeding
> time, and his energy level is consistent (friendly fellow). I
asked
> LFS about quarentining him they said not necessary. Seems to look
> better tonight than he has been - I have been giving him a crisp
if
> he is at the top when I walk by.
>
> Normally lightly feed 2x each day - light on and 10 min before
light
> off.
>
> All other fish appear healthy and happy, although they slow down
> activity as the cloud worsens. Not as eager eaters as usual tho
> perhaps they can't see the food.
>
> Milky white cloud is back after water change Saturday night. If
> newly cleaned filter doesn't pull it out I will be changing water
> tomorrow.
>
> Any ideas???
>
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> http://www.yourquietretreat.com
> Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19869 From: Joe Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Hope Livingston <wildkids3@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all..
> Can't figure out what we're doing wrong here..
> Everything reads fine..on the 5 in 1 strips..
> Our yellow tang lasted about 2 weeks..we had a bahama
> starfish..lasted about 2 weeks..
> The clown fish, damsel, chromis and mushroom corals
> are all fine..
> Will not acclimating them long enough cause them to
> die after a couple of weeks??
> I thought the one damsel we had, (devil fish) had
> something to do with the tang dying..He was quite
> mean..would attack him..think he majorly stressed the
> tang out..But can't figure out bout the starfish..
>
> Any ideas??
> Hope,
>
>
> What is the experition date on your test strips? I never got
accurate results off the strips at all.
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19870 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 11/25/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
55 gallon. How can I stop the feces dragging?
Emily


On 11/25/06, Melissa Laing <fyyr@...> wrote:
>
> Do they ever swim funny? Like sideways? Upsidedown?
> Hmmm, I'm sorry, I don't remember if you posted what
> size tank they live in?
> Melissa
>
> --- Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> > Hmm that's possible, since they get floating flake
> > food, but it's curious
> > that the other goldfish has never had the silver
> > feces. Should I be
> > concerned that the other is so much fatter than the
> > the one with the silver
> > feces?
> > Emily
> >
> >
> > On 11/24/06, Melissa Laing <fyyr@... <fyyr%40rocketmail.com>>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Could the silver feces have been air??? When
> > mine
> > > have "gas" the feeces look silver. The air is
> > trapped
> > > in the mucus that comes out with feeces and it
> > looks
> > > silver.
> > > .
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> > replying, thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> > ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> > that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> > TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> > .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> > matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Want to start your own business?
> Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19871 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank - Help!
Steve, In browsing the threads on this subject this morning, as I
read Annja's (annja_1966) related post of late last night, it seems
apparent that my reply of early (6:30AM) Thanksgiving morning to your
message (below) never made it through. I can't find any mention of
it either in my mailbox or in the group archives, so I must assume
Yahoo has struck again! Really hate that, as while this certainly
isn't the first time (nor will it be the last), I can never remember
exactly what I intended to say when I originally wrote the message.
Then too, sometimes these lost messages are quite lengthy, so its at
those times I just give up and let it go as now somewhere in the
realm of cyberspace, without trying to re-write anything. Since this
ribbing deserves some sort of a reply, I'll try to recapture my
response . . .

Just can't remember everything!!! (LOL). The use of alum (aluminum
potassium sulphate) as a plant disinfectant does deserve mentioning
though, although I hesititate recommending remedies and methods which
are not always easily obtained. While this, and other chemicals and
drugs, used to be readily available from your friendly local ma & pa
pharmacist if you knew him well, many such items are not as freely
sold by drug stores anymore unless its either an over-the-counter
item or by prescription. USP alum should be found in the herb &
spice section of most food markets though, as its used in pickling.

The normal dosage for disinfecting plants is 1 Tablespoon of this
powder per 1 gallon of water, letting the plants soak overnight in
this solution. I've seen references to this using up to 3 Tbs alum
per gallon of water and letting the plants soak in this for 2 to 3
days, but that seems unnecessarily excessive. On the otherhand, I've
read of soaking the plants for just a couple of hours; while this
time frame may kill snail eggs and maybe snails, I doubt it will kill
all possible hitch-hikers. Dr. William T. Innes ("Exotic Aquarium
Fishes") recommends soaking the plants in a solution of hydrated lime.

Another method of disinfecting plants is by use of the
product "Lifebearer," an organophosphate pesticide produced by
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, which is normally used as a treatment for
gill flukes and fish lice, etc. Again, the plants need to be soaked
overnight in this medication/disinfectant.

Realizing that I had previously mentioned the use of potassium
permanganate as a plant disinfectant, without stating where it can
readily be purchased, one needn't go to a chemical supply house to
obtain this compound. It is available in solution from Kordon
as "Permoxyn," and probably bottled by other manufacturers in the
aquarium trade; it was marketed by Aquatronics as "Aqua-Bright," but
this is no longer available. Still have my Aquatronics solution of
this, as it keeps if kept refigerated, in the dark. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> What, no mention of the alum solution to clean up plants?
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 2:14 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Update: Cloudy STINKY fresh-water tank -
> Help!
>
> Betty Lou, Hello again -- In going over the rest of your post, it
> appears that your main problem is that you have not done any
> maintenance on the gravel. While its hard to say, since you just
> started having fish in the tank in September, I would not think
that
> the gravel could be terribly bad as to need replacing, even though
it
> seems you started out with 2 goldfish (notoriously messy).
>
> Essentially, charcoal is carbon even though it is seldom used any
> more, in favor of the latter for those who prefer using it. Again,
> it is not needed, although if changed often enough so as to keep
> ahead of its limited useful lifespan (impossible to tell it), it
will
> pull out many of the impurities, but I've already shown its
danger.
> A probable sure-safe schedule for changing it would be every 2
weeks
> under normal conditions, with one month skirting the end (before or
> after) of its saturation point. Charcoal is just more porous than
> carbon; many hobbyists cut the end of the Whisper filter carbon pad
> and either pour out the carbon if they don't want to use it, or buy
> the carbon in bulk and replace the bag-like pad with it if that's
> what they prefer using -- lots less expensive that way.
>
> By the way, allow its immaterial at this point, since regular or
> Comet goldfish can get to 12" (and Fantails, etc. to 10"), 30
gallons
> of water per fish is ultimitely recommended to house goldfish.
>
> Since your heater control is tempermental, I'd then leave it alone
> foe the time being, but I would suggest your replacing it before
> Winter with a quality one, as your fish are only as safe as your
> heater's ability to maintain the proper temperature. It just takes
> once to either cook the fish or chill them; its cheap insurance.
>
> Now to get to the jist of the problem which I touched on before,
and
> that is cleaning your gravel, which not having messed with it
> obviously needs it. I don't know your present methods of changing
> water, so can only advise you accordingly. However, if you are now
> using a syphon hose, you can get an attachment for it called
> a "Syphon-Clean" or Python "Pro-Clean" which is a large diameter
> lucite tube which you push down into the gravel to dislodge the
> debris. The first one comes in four sizes and sells for about
$5.49
> for the medium size and the second one comes in five sizes with the
> medium selling for around $4.99. You could instead get the whole
> Python water changing hose which attaches to your faucet -- the
small
> one (25' long) goes for around $26, sometimes on sale for $23.
There
> are also a number of hand held, battery operated and air-operated
> gravel cleaners from $5 to $15 (check < www.thatfishplace.com >
> and/or < www.DrsFosterSmith.com >, both reputable on line stores,
if
> you can't find anything local).
>
> While plants will produce oxygen (during the day), their main
> purpose, besides esthetics, is to help take up the nitrogenous by-
> products your fish are constantly giving off. You can't always
> believe everything that is told to you, even by an otherwise
> knowledgeable fish store manager; often his subjective opinion of
the
> subject at hand leads him to give you a less-than-objective answer
or
> opinion. It is true that filters can introduce much of the oxygen
> that is needed in the aquarium, depending on the disposition of its
> outflow. Most of the needed oxygen is absorbed through the surface
> of the water (as is any excess carbon dioxide given up through the
> water's surface). The faster that the surface can turn over, the
> more rapid these gas exchanges may take place. The greater the
> current created at the surface by your filter, the greater ease the
> surface has in absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide and
> other gases. Whisper filters have a sort of spillway; the flow can
> be regulated, but additionally an airstone is recommended to help
> turn over the surface water. Too, this helps the tank in having a
> more uniform temperature from top to bottom -- that that much
> difference with a 10 gallon tank, but does help in taller aquariums.
>
> You're propbably right about not buying from stores such as the one
> you mentioned (Pet Supplies Plus) if they have lots of dead fish.
> This does tell volumes about their aquarium care. The plants can
be
> disinfected though if they otherwise look especially nice. You can
> either let them soak in a solution of Potassium Permanganate (a
dye,
> so be careful), or a mild bleach solution -- this last method
taking
> care not to immerse the roots. Have a Happy Thanksgiving, Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Good Morning all!
> >
> > I turned on the lights this am and everyone seemed to be
interested
> > in food this am! The skinny platy and female guppy were even
> > scrounging a little! I did feed them yesterday, just no lights,
> > maybe they just didn't feel enough like eating in the dark - who
> > knows!
> >
> > As promised here are the results of my 5 point dip stick water
test.
> >
> > Nitrate not quite 20, but did show some color.
> > Nitrite again not quite .5 but did show some color.
> > Hardness - flat 0
> > Alkalinity - 300
> > pH 8.4
> >
> > The water is less cloudy today and less smelly, yesterday the
smell
> > was quite overwhelming, and I would not have been at all
surprised
> if
> > I had lost a fish or two overnight, but they all are present and
> > swimming about this am.
> >
> > My filter is what came with the set up - a whisper (tetra?) -
> pehaps
> > I mis-stated that it was carbon - perhaps it is charcoal - it's
> > whatever was OEM, and I just replaced it with the same part
number!
> >
> > This tank was originally to house 2 goldfish which my kids won at
a
> > picnic, we didn't expect them to make it, but also didn't want to
> put
> > them in a plain bowl of water either. I had always wanted a set
> up,
> > so we went with a 10 gal tank which if the goldies would have
made
> it
> > should have been plenty big for them, but something we could use
> for
> > more than just gold fish if (when) they didn't make it. We got
> this
> > in August and populated it in September.
> >
> > As I stated last night we are on well water with a softner and RO
> > system.
> >
> > I have not touched the water, temp or anything since my last
post.
> > My thermostat is a little tempermental and I need to watch it
> > carefully that it does remember to turn back on before it reaches
> > freezing!
> >
> > OK, now I'm cringing as I write this.... don't flame me too badly
> > here - <squint> I have never messed with the gravel <looking
around
> > to dodge the fire arrows>. In fact when I pulled the hibiscus
out
> to
> > clean it, I was extra careful not to stir things up too much! I
> have
> > moved the cups around to allow the algae eaters to clean
underneath
> > them, but again, was careful not to stir things up. I am
currently
> > unemployed, so we are watching pennies closly, please keep this
in
> > mind before telling me I need a $500.00 vacuum or something! I
do
> > have more than enough new gravel that I could put down if I'm
told
> to.
> >
> > I was told by the mgr at the LFS that he would not put live
plants
> in
> > any aquarium, and does not sell them, but has special ordered on
> > occassion. This is why we opted for fakes. He also told me that
> the
> > filter was also an oxygenator / bubbler. My husband had a hard
> time
> > swallowing both of these, as it was not what his dad had done in
> > their fish tank when he was a kid (40 some odd years ago), but
that
> > was his dads and he keeps telling me this is my project, and he
is
> > not one to fight for something if it is not something he knows
> first
> > hand.
> >
> > When I thought my guppy was preggers I read that a live plant is
a
> > better breeding trap, but again didn't go with that since I was
> going
> > on what I thought was good information. I did look at some live
> > plants tho at Pet Supplies Plus, but was/am scared to buy them as
> > they had so many dead and dying fish in their tanks. I didn't
know
> > if that would have any effect on the plant. I know I won't buy
any
> > fish there based on what I saw that day - even tho they have an
> > awesome selection!
> >
> > There is another lfs in the next town who has been in biz for
quite
> a
> > while. I can go there if I need to, but should be able to do a
> > special order from the place I usually go to.
> >
> > Hubby has said that he would not be opposed to a larger tank
> if/when
> > I get this figured out, but doesn't want to invest if I keep
> killing
> > fish! I think I forgot to mention I amonia poisoned several fish
> > during the cycling time I did not know about before we stocked
the
> > tank. I have not lost a fish for about a month, and he was one
of
> > the original amonia survivors, except the danios after the algae
> > destroyer and when this whole stinky water thing started. LFS
said
> > they are pretty delicate tho.
> >
> > Gotta run now - Happy Thanksgiving, and let me know what is my
next
> > step!!
> >
> > Betty Lou Kline
> > http://www.yourquietretreat.com
> > Pre-Christmas Discount 10% off of your order!
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19872 From: Bri Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
I would flush the damsel



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Hope Livingston <wildkids3@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all..
> > Can't figure out what we're doing wrong here..
> > Everything reads fine..on the 5 in 1 strips..
> > Our yellow tang lasted about 2 weeks..we had a bahama
> > starfish..lasted about 2 weeks..
> > The clown fish, damsel, chromis and mushroom corals
> > are all fine..
> > Will not acclimating them long enough cause them to
> > die after a couple of weeks??
> > I thought the one damsel we had, (devil fish) had
> > something to do with the tang dying..He was quite
> > mean..would attack him..think he majorly stressed the
> > tang out..But can't figure out bout the starfish..
> >
> > Any ideas??
> > Hope,
> >
> >
> > What is the experition date on your test strips? I never got
> accurate results off the strips at all.
> >
> >
>
_____________________________________________________________________
> _______________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
> > http://new.mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19873 From: Hope Livingston Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
expiration is 2008

--- Joe <yotehunter76@...> wrote:

> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Hope Livingston
> <wildkids3@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all..
> > Can't figure out what we're doing wrong here..
> > Everything reads fine..on the 5 in 1 strips..
> > Our yellow tang lasted about 2 weeks..we had a
> bahama
> > starfish..lasted about 2 weeks..
> > The clown fish, damsel, chromis and mushroom
> corals
> > are all fine..
> > Will not acclimating them long enough cause them
> to
> > die after a couple of weeks??
> > I thought the one damsel we had, (devil fish) had
> > something to do with the tang dying..He was quite
> > mean..would attack him..think he majorly stressed
> the
> > tang out..But can't figure out bout the starfish..
> >
> > Any ideas??
> > Hope,
> >
> >
> > What is the experition date on your test strips? I
> never got
> accurate results off the strips at all.
> >
> >
>
_____________________________________________________________________
> _______________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail
> beta.
> > http://new.mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19874 From: Hope Livingston Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
LOL!! Took the damsel to my brother-in-laws pet
store..Told him he could have the devil fish..

--- Bri <bribassin@...> wrote:

> I would flush the damsel
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19875 From: litchfield_tim Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Flush the Damsel
I totally agree. Flush the Damsel ASAP I had one and still do (can't
catch the little sob) he has killed every fish I have put in the tank,
the only exception is my Nasa Tang who is 6 inches long and 4 inches
wide. The only reason he has not eat him is one he is to small and
second the tang won't let him near his cave.
Took a lot of fish to figure it out and a lot of water testing so that
one little six dollar fish has cost me hundreds and I have a 150 gal
salt water tank. Oh and he has not killed the anemone she stings

Tim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19876 From: Bri Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Things dying..
HaHaHa! That's a better move. :o) I have taken back a few myself.
They can get pretty ornery as they get older & bigger.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Hope Livingston <wildkids3@...>
wrote:
>
> LOL!! Took the damsel to my brother-in-laws pet
> store..Told him he could have the devil fish..
>
> --- Bri <bribassin@...> wrote:
>
> > I would flush the damsel
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited
> Access over 1 million songs.
> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19877 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Flush the Damsel
If you're going to go the route of cycling with damsels... Throwing them away is bad, bad, bad... You should have cycled with something other than fish in the first place...


----- Original Message ----
From: litchfield_tim <heytim@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 1:05:56 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Flush the Damsel

I totally agree. Flush the Damsel ASAP I had one and still do (can't
catch the little sob) he has killed every fish I have put in the tank,
the only exception is my Nasa Tang who is 6 inches long and 4 inches
wide. The only reason he has not eat him is one he is to small and
second the tang won't let him near his cave.
Took a lot of fish to figure it out and a lot of water testing so that
one little six dollar fish has cost me hundreds and I have a 150 gal
salt water tank. Oh and he has not killed the anemone she stings

Tim






____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19878 From: litchfield_tim Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Sorry I didn't mean flush them in a toilet
Sorry I didn't mean to flush them down the toilet I mean get rid of
them some how. I would never ever kill a fish or anything else. My
fish store you can return the damsels after cycling your tank, but I
thought they were pretty in the tank well I found out why people return
them after you cycle your tank.
Sorry for the misunderstanding I am a no kill person.
Tim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19879 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Clown loach!!!
Hi all

So, now it's my clown loach that I have had for over 4 years. It looks like ick - I usually see ick on my fish when it is all over the body, but I am thinking it is because he is so big that it has just started. (five inches) The usual flecks of white (spots) all on his whiskers, on his head, a lot on his tail and a bit on his dorsal fin. We have treated with an ick treatment that has worked for me in the past. Any advice? I have no idea how long they live, I just hope his time isn't up, we are quite attached to this fish! I have tried for over an hour to get a picture, but every time I get the perfect shot he swims away on me!

Cynthia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19880 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Silver feces in goldfish
Mine get it when I over feed them floating food... I
guess they take in air too and it makes them gassy.
Anyone else out there have any ideas?


--- Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote:

> 55 gallon. How can I stop the feces dragging?
> Emily
>
>
> On 11/25/06, Melissa Laing <fyyr@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Do they ever swim funny? Like sideways?
> Upsidedown?
> > Hmmm, I'm sorry, I don't remember if you posted
> what
> > size tank they live in?
> > Melissa
> >
> > --- Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...
> <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote:
> >
> > > Hmm that's possible, since they get floating
> flake
> > > food, but it's curious
> > > that the other goldfish has never had the silver
> > > feces. Should I be
> > > concerned that the other is so much fatter than
> the
> > > the one with the silver
> > > feces?
> > > Emily
> > >
> > >
> > > On 11/24/06, Melissa Laing <fyyr@...
> <fyyr%40rocketmail.com>>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Could the silver feces have been air??? When
> > > mine
> > > > have "gas" the feeces look silver. The air is
> > > trapped
> > > > in the mucus that comes out with feeces and it
> > > looks
> > > > silver.
> > > > .
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
> when
> > > replying, thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> > > ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all
> TEXT
> > > that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING
> the
> > > TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)"
> <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> > > .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> > > matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
__________________________________________________________
> > Want to start your own business?
> > Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
> > http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19881 From: Hope Livingston Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Flush the Damsel
I have another damsel..Just this particular one was
mean..

--- FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...> wrote:

> If you're going to go the route of cycling with
> damsels... Throwing them away is bad, bad, bad...
> You should have cycled with something other than
> fish in the first place...
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: litchfield_tim <heytim@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 1:05:56 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Flush the Damsel
>
> I totally agree. Flush the Damsel ASAP I had one and
> still do (can't
> catch the little sob) he has killed every fish I
> have put in the tank,
> the only exception is my Nasa Tang who is 6 inches
> long and 4 inches
> wide. The only reason he has not eat him is one he
> is to small and
> second the tang won't let him near his cave.
> Took a lot of fish to figure it out and a lot of
> water testing so that
> one little six dollar fish has cost me hundreds and
> I have a 150 gal
> salt water tank. Oh and he has not killed the
> anemone she stings
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail
> beta.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
Cheap talk?
Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19882 From: Heather Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Clown loach!!!
This is a helful site hope you can utilize it.... Goodluck :)

http://www.2cah.com/pandora/Disease.html
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19883 From: momofholly2002 Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Salt & Ich ????
Once you treat your tank with salt for ich do you repeat the treatment
every day and for how long? Or is it a one time thing?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19884 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt & Ich ????
I add the salt, and raise the temperature, at the start of treatment. When the normal water change comes around, I top off the tank, make the water change, and add the appropriate amount of salt to maintain the treatment level.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of momofholly2002
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 10:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt & Ich ????

Once you treat your tank with salt for ich do you repeat the treatment
every day and for how long? Or is it a one time thing?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19885 From: momofholly2002 Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Salt & ich
Steve ~ once again thank you. The tank temp is @ 72F. Does it need to
be at 80F? I have a black moore in the tank all water perams test out
excellent and I have 4 14" long 1" wide air stones in the tank. As I
raise the temp will I need more air stones?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19886 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt & ich
For goldfish, I'd probably not go higher than about 75, and keep a watch for problems with the fish. It will take longer to cure the ich, but the fish will be better off for the lower temperature.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of momofholly2002
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 11:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt & ich

Steve ~ once again thank you. The tank temp is @ 72F. Does it need to
be at 80F? I have a black moore in the tank all water perams test out
excellent and I have 4 14" long 1" wide air stones in the tank. As I
raise the temp will I need more air stones?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19887 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt & ich
On Monday 27 November 2006 14:43, Steve Szabo wrote:
> For goldfish, I'd probably not go higher than about 75, and keep a watch
> for problems with the fish. It will take longer to cure the ich, but the
> fish will be better off for the lower temperature.

I sometimes worry about the goldfish we have here. Maybe they need a
chiller :) But then they are likely bred local and more used to the heat.

The water in the tanks here is around 30C (in the 80's) all summer without any
heater...

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19888 From: Angel Collis Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: Salt & Ich ????
This is what I did 3x and it worked like a charm.



Take like a small glass (drinking glass) fill ½ with aquarium salt, put it
in the bottom of the tank on an angle, turn your heater up to 85ish and it
works like a charm.



HTH Angel





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of momofholly2002
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 10:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt & Ich ????



Once you treat your tank with salt for ich do you repeat the treatment
every day and for how long? Or is it a one time thing?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19889 From: Beth Brownell Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: I think my heater broke on me.
I haven't seen it turn on in over the past couple of days. It has black
stuff at the bottom of the tube and there is white stuff on the inside
of the tube itself.
The water temp is down from 82 degrees to 72 degrees. I also had two
lights going on at once till one of the bulbs busted on me and I'm down
to one bulb.
The tank is my 50 gallon tank and filled with seven Angelfishes and one
pleco and two smaller fishes of unknown species.
Did my heater die and should I go out and get a new one in the morning
or should I just watch the heater to see if it will turn on again?

Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19890 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/26/2006
Subject: Re: I think my heater broke on me.
yeah sounds like it maybe broken have you tried turning the knob to see if the light goes on? Or slowly slide your fingers down to see if its warm?


----- Original Message ----
From: Beth Brownell <spencer_creek_studios@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 12:59:59 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] I think my heater broke on me.

I haven't seen it turn on in over the past couple of days. It has black
stuff at the bottom of the tube and there is white stuff on the inside
of the tube itself.
The water temp is down from 82 degrees to 72 degrees. I also had two
lights going on at once till one of the bulbs busted on me and I'm down
to one bulb.
The tank is my 50 gallon tank and filled with seven Angelfishes and one
pleco and two smaller fishes of unknown species.
Did my heater die and should I go out and get a new one in the morning
or should I just watch the heater to see if it will turn on again?

Beth






____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19891 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: I think my heater broke on me.
Beth, It sure sounds as though the heater is broken; at the very
least, it's malfunctioning. The thermostat part of the heater is
designed to maintain an even temperature at all times. If you have
it set for 82o, the thermostat should engage the heating element to
come on as soon as the temperature dips to 81.5 o, or even less than
that difference if it's working properly. It should never dip to 72o
if functioning right, and will never "turn on" again of it's own
accord when this happens. The message that something was wrong was
obvious when the temperature dipped to 79o or 78o.

Most (I presume all) heaters have a small red (neon) indicator bulb
which lets you know when the heater is on (thermostat circuit closed)
and when it's off (thermostat circuit open), all done automatically
by the bi-metal strip of the thermostat, which opens and closes the
contact points. Occassionally, these points may stick (fuse) closed,
causing the heater to stay on and cook your fish. It seldom, if
ever, happens that the points stick open, although the points can get
pitted and not make good contact. Most likely, the heating element
portion of the unit has burned out. When this happens, the indicator
light on many (all?) heater models stays on at all times without the
heater element functioning to warm the water.

Some heaters are designed to be able to change out the faulty
components. If you're handy enough (and it doesn't take a rocket
scientist to do this), you can replace the broken part yourself, if
you have this design heater. Other than that, I'd look into
replacing the heater at your earliest opportunity. If unsure whether
your present model can be repaired, take it to your LFS to get it
evaluated, but before you do, (1) check to see that its now plugged
in and (2) check to see that this wall plug circuit is working.
You'd be surprised at how many times such a "malfunction" was just a
result of that, when someone making a water change forgot to plug the
heater back in. The debris on the bottom and the white stuff on the
sides don't sound very good though, although you could try re-
adjusting the unit. If this fails, go to your LFS (with heater in
hand). Ray


---n AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Brownell"
<spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
>
> I haven't seen it turn on in over the past couple of days. It has
black
> stuff at the bottom of the tube and there is white stuff on the
inside
> of the tube itself.
> The water temp is down from 82 degrees to 72 degrees. I also had
two
> lights going on at once till one of the bulbs busted on me and I'm
down
> to one bulb.
> The tank is my 50 gallon tank and filled with seven Angelfishes and
one
> pleco and two smaller fishes of unknown species.
> Did my heater die and should I go out and get a new one in the
morning
> or should I just watch the heater to see if it will turn on again?
>
> Beth
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19892 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: I think my heater broke on me.
I would say your heater has failed. For a fifty gallon tank you would need about 100-150W to heat it to the level you had, so I'd buy two 50 W or 2 75W heaters. I'd also buy quality--Supreme Heetmaster or Ebo-Jaegar. I still have Supremes that are 40 years old and still working fine. The idea of having two heaters of lesser wattage is to prevent against your current problem. Heaters do fail. It is just a matter of time. If they fail as yours has, then the one would be left to help maintain the water temperature while you go out and get another one. Should the heater fail in a way that would cause it to always be on, then it would not leave you with an overheated tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Beth Brownell
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 1:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I think my heater broke on me.

I haven't seen it turn on in over the past couple of days. It has black
stuff at the bottom of the tube and there is white stuff on the inside
of the tube itself.
The water temp is down from 82 degrees to 72 degrees. I also had two
lights going on at once till one of the bulbs busted on me and I'm down
to one bulb.
The tank is my 50 gallon tank and filled with seven Angelfishes and one
pleco and two smaller fishes of unknown species.
Did my heater die and should I go out and get a new one in the morning
or should I just watch the heater to see if it will turn on again?

Beth



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19893 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: Flush the Damsel
There are only 2 types of damsel that are recomended for a tank with fish other than damsels... Damsels are social creatures and need other damsels of the same species... They should be kept in groups of 5... However... If that one damsel is giving you a problem... There are fish stores that will take it


----- Original Message ----
From: Hope Livingston <wildkids3@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 7:04:58 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Flush the Damsel

I have another damsel..Just this particular one was
mean..

--- FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ yahoo.com> wrote:

> If you're going to go the route of cycling with
> damsels... Throwing them away is bad, bad, bad...
> You should have cycled with something other than
> fish in the first place...
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: litchfield_tim <heytim@hotmail. com>
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 1:05:56 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Flush the Damsel
>
> I totally agree. Flush the Damsel ASAP I had one and
> still do (can't
> catch the little sob) he has killed every fish I
> have put in the tank,
> the only exception is my Nasa Tang who is 6 inches
> long and 4 inches
> wide. The only reason he has not eat him is one he
> is to small and
> second the tang won't let him near his cave.
> Took a lot of fish to figure it out and a lot of
> water testing so that
> one little six dollar fish has cost me hundreds and
> I have a 150 gal
> salt water tank. Oh and he has not killed the
> anemone she stings
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail
> beta.
> http://new.mail. yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19894 From: Angel Phillips Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: how many is too much
how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19895 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Maybe none, maybe not many, maybe a bunch. What kind of fish are we
talking? What kind o ffiltration? What kind of maintenance schedule?

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Angel Phillips
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] how many is too much

how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19896 From: Angel Phillips Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Ok! I have one betta,3 neon tetras, 2 red eye tetra, Orange eye tetra,
and a danio. Is that too much?


> Maybe none, maybe not many, maybe a bunch. What kind of fish are we
> talking? What kind o ffiltration? What kind of maintenance schedule?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Angel Phillips
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:28 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] how many is too much
>
> how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19897 From: Angel Phillips Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Ok! I have one betta,3 tetras, 2 red eye tetras, 1 orange eye tetra,
and a damio(I forgot how to spell it). The filteration is carbon. I
make a 25% change every Sunday. I'm just wondering if the tank is ok is
it too stuffed or is it ok?



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Maybe none, maybe not many, maybe a bunch. What kind of fish are we
> talking? What kind o ffiltration? What kind of maintenance schedule?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Angel Phillips
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:28 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] how many is too much
>
> how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19898 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/27/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Well for a tank that small livebearer, tetras and barbs are ideal for it. One inch of fish would be ok with those types of fish.


----- Original Message ----
From: Angel Phillips <bone_53219@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:27:59 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] how many is too much

how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19899 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
its called danio. You seem perfect but what you want to do is get at least one more danio as they like to play with each other. Otherwise he may stress the other fish out. The best thing to do is take out the betta and put him in a little bowl as fish nipple their fins usually. Good Luck.


----- Original Message ----
From: Angel Phillips <bone_53219@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 11:32:25 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Re: how many is too much

Ok! I have one betta,3 tetras, 2 red eye tetras, 1 orange eye tetra,
and a damio(I forgot how to spell it). The filteration is carbon. I
make a 25% change every Sunday. I'm just wondering if the tank is ok is
it too stuffed or is it ok?

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Maybe none, maybe not many, maybe a bunch. What kind of fish are we
> talking? What kind o ffiltration? What kind of maintenance schedule?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com]
> On Behalf Of Angel Phillips
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:28 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] how many is too much
>
> how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19900 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
You are pretty much at the limit of the fish you should maintain in the
tank. I am not familiar with the orange-eye tetra, but I am presuming it
is similar to the red eyes and all your tetras, along with the danio,
are schooling fish, which means they should be kept in groups of at
least 6 each to feel most comfortable and prevent unwanted behaviors
such as fin nipping and picking on other fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Angel Phillips
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 11:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: how many is too much

Ok! I have one betta,3 neon tetras, 2 red eye tetra, Orange eye tetra,
and a danio. Is that too much?


> Maybe none, maybe not many, maybe a bunch. What kind of fish are we
> talking? What kind o ffiltration? What kind of maintenance schedule?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Angel Phillips
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:28 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] how many is too much
>
> how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19901 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
That depends on what kind of fish... general rule is
one inch of fish per gallon. I hate that rule bioload
is of more concern.
Melissa

--- Angel Phillips <bone_53219@...> wrote:

> how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19902 From: farzinafshar Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Angel Phillips"
<bone_53219@...> wrote:
>
> how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
>
dear friend
its realy depends on your style
if you love a fresh water fish you can choos 2 kind
first vegeterian and savege one
if u want to have nice littel fresh fish its better for you to choos
not defrent kind
for exampel angel can live with neon and discas canot live with
shork or eny kind of that or its better for you to choos disscas for
thare style and you can also take fantastic view but there is very
important thinks that you must do for have safe fish for you aqurium
1.heter (most of fresh water fish needs beetwen 25 till 30 c
tempreter and they die because of they hot organism)
2.pomp with 2 way presser bobbels
3.grate filter
4.you need grate stone that its not calsium or solfid or plastic
5.you need plants for fresh water vegeterian fish (non of silver
daler and silver red fish because they eat plant and every think
they can)
6.try to bilt an nature style and try to have vaicant plase that
noone can see
if you have eny kind of qustion about this you can ask
best regard
f.a
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19903 From: Angel Phillips Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Ok! I have one betta,3 tetras, 2 red eye tetras, 1 orange eye tetra,
and a damio(I forgot how to spell it). The filteration is carbon. I
make a 25% change every Sunday. I'm just wondering if the tank is ok is
it too stuffed or is it ok?



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Maybe none, maybe not many, maybe a bunch. What kind of fish are we
> talking? What kind o ffiltration? What kind of maintenance schedule?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Angel Phillips
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:28 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] how many is too much
>
> how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19904 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Ok, sounds like you are overstocked.
Do you test your water?
Melissa

--- Angel Phillips <bone_53219@...> wrote:

> Ok! I have one betta,3 tetras, 2 red eye tetras, 1
> orange eye tetra,
> and a damio(I forgot how to spell it). The
> filteration is carbon. I
> make a 25% change every Sunday. I'm just wondering
> if the tank is ok is
> it too stuffed or is it ok?
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo"
> <steve@...> wrote:
> >
> > Maybe none, maybe not many, maybe a bunch. What
> kind of fish are we
> > talking? What kind o ffiltration? What kind of
> maintenance schedule?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Angel Phillips
> > Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:28 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] how many is too much
> >
> > how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19905 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
ACK! Did you just say put the betta in a little
bowl??? Betta's do best in a minimum of 1gallon
heated water (they are tropical you know). I have a
MAJOR problem with people who have bettas for
decorations. Betta's are fish, NOT decorations.
Bowls should NOT be used and petstores should be baned
from selling them. It's as bad as goldfish bowls!!!
Just because they can survive in them doesn't mean
they should survive in them. I know you are just
thinking of the Betta's welfare so not to have his
fins nipped, but still... a bowl?
I'm sure he can get at least a 2.5gallon tank and a
small heater if he wants to take his betta out...
And IMHO he is a little overstocked, I wouldn't add
anymore fish until I knew how my water quality was:
Red eye tetra: 2x 3" = 6"
tetras (I'll presume glow): 3x 1" = 3"
Orange eye tetra: 1x 2" = 2"
Danio 1x 2" = 2"
Total: 13"
Not including the Betta (2"-3")
Although the Danio might be happier with a buddy, I
would really, really keep an eye on my water quality
first.
How long has your tank been up and running for? Did
you cycle it before you added your fish? Could you
possibly add a few live plants? Could you upgrade to
a 15 or even better 20g???
What kind of filter do you have (I know you said
carbon, but does it have a sponge too for biological
filtration?), a heater???
Melissa





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19906 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Sounds a little overstocked.
How long has your tank been up and running? When did
you add your fish? Do you test your water?
Melissa

--- Angel Phillips <bone_53219@...> wrote:

> Ok! I have one betta,3 tetras, 2 red eye tetras, 1
> orange eye tetra,
> and a damio(I forgot how to spell it). The
> filteration is carbon. I
> make a 25% change every Sunday. I'm just wondering
> if the tank is ok is
> it too stuffed or is it ok?
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo"
> <steve@...> wrote:
> >
> > Maybe none, maybe not many, maybe a bunch. What
> kind of fish are we
> > talking? What kind o ffiltration? What kind of
> maintenance schedule?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Angel Phillips
> > Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:28 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] how many is too much
> >
> > how many fish can i have in a 10 gl?
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19907 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: ICH!
My 130 has a bad, bad case of ich. I was away for a week and came back
to this.
I have an elephant nose and a pictus cat, both scaleless.
Ammonia is 0, nitrites at 25...haven't tested the others yet.
I'm doing a water change and adding salt (but will first search to see
if the elephant nose can take salt.)
HOW do I treat this? This is a ton of water and has 2 scaleless fish in
it.

Puh-lease help.

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19908 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: dragon Fish
I finally got a dragonfish. I have wanted one so bad. I got him 3 days ago
and added him to my 90 gallon community tank. The thing is, I have not seen
him since I added him in there. I have looked in there with a flashlight, even
at night, searching the stump, the caves, I can't see him. Does anyone have
any info in this fish? I am wondering if he is buried in the substrate
somewhere. can't figure it out.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19909 From: Matheo Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: WANTED: Genyochromis mento (lake Malawi cichlid)
Looking for 1 or 2 juveniles of this fish. I haven't had any luck with
fish stores in my area (Los Angeles, CA), nor have run across a web
store that carries them. Any leads appreciated...Thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19910 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: My case of ich
I'm trying to figure out what caused this. At first I thought perhaps a
power outage, yet no other tank was affected and none of the clocks are
blinking. So that's out.

I just witnessed my largest kissing gourami vigorously sucking on my
blood parrots. They would fight him off and he kept on chasing them and
sucking on them. Could this have stressed them into ick? (This kissing
gourami is currently in a water pitcher. I'm having to breathe and calm
down or else I will flush the little s.o.b.) If so, they are the last
to show the parasites on their bodies. The pictus cat however is
literally covered with white spots. As if here were the first to get
them.
The pictus is highly annoyed and a little harassed by our elephant nose.
They like the same territory.

Does anyone see anything here that might have had a cause and effect in
this tank?

I pray I won't wake up to dead blood parrots in the morning. They look
so terrible right now.

Thanks for any thoughts.
~Leslie (still wondering what to do with this "kissing" gourami that
resides in my water pitcher.)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19911 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Stress!
Poor water conditions, rapid temp changes, or low temps.

If the Gourami is stressing the others out it could happen.

Have you raised the temp on the tank?


-----Original Message-----
From: 5moores@...
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 7:08 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] My case of ich


I'm trying to figure out what caused this. At first I thought perhaps a
power outage, yet no other tank was affected and none of the clocks are
blinking. So that's out.

I just witnessed my largest kissing gourami vigorously sucking on my
blood parrots. They would fight him off and he kept on chasing them and
sucking on them. Could this have stressed them into ick? (This kissing
gourami is currently in a water pitcher. I'm having to breathe and calm
down or else I will flush the little s.o.b.) If so, they are the last
to show the parasites on their bodies. The pictus cat however is
literally covered with white spots. As if here were the first to get
them.
The pictus is highly annoyed and a little harassed by our elephant nose.
They like the same territory.

Does anyone see anything here that might have had a cause and effect in
this tank?

I pray I won't wake up to dead blood parrots in the morning. They look
so terrible right now.

Thanks for any thoughts.
~Leslie (still wondering what to do with this "kissing" gourami that
resides in my water pitcher.)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19912 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: WANTED: Genyochromis mento (lake Malawi cichlid)
Do you belong to the ACA? If not, you may want to look into it. They have a publication and an online version of it that members post what they have available, and what they want. http://www.cichlid.org


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Matheo
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 8:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] WANTED: Genyochromis mento (lake Malawi cichlid)

Looking for 1 or 2 juveniles of this fish. I haven't had any luck with
fish stores in my area (Los Angeles, CA), nor have run across a web
store that carries them. Any leads appreciated...Thanks!




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19913 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
In the wild they live in little puddles of water natually.


----- Original Message ----
From: Melissa Laing <fyyr@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 10:02:39 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Re: how many is too much

ACK! Did you just say put the betta in a little
bowl??? Betta's do best in a minimum of 1gallon
heated water (they are tropical you know). I have a
MAJOR problem with people who have bettas for
decorations. Betta's are fish, NOT decorations.
Bowls should NOT be used and petstores should be baned
from selling them. It's as bad as goldfish bowls!!!
Just because they can survive in them doesn't mean
they should survive in them. I know you are just
thinking of the Betta's welfare so not to have his
fins nipped, but still... a bowl?
I'm sure he can get at least a 2.5gallon tank and a
small heater if he wants to take his betta out...
And IMHO he is a little overstocked, I wouldn't add
anymore fish until I knew how my water quality was:
Red eye tetra: 2x 3" = 6"
tetras (I'll presume glow): 3x 1" = 3"
Orange eye tetra: 1x 2" = 2"
Danio 1x 2" = 2"
Total: 13"
Not including the Betta (2"-3")
Although the Danio might be happier with a buddy, I
would really, really keep an eye on my water quality
first.
How long has your tank been up and running for? Did
you cycle it before you added your fish? Could you
possibly add a few live plants? Could you upgrade to
a 15 or even better 20g???
What kind of filter do you have (I know you said
carbon, but does it have a sponge too for biological
filtration?) , a heater???
Melissa

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19914 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: dragon Fish
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=2526
is this what you have?


----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 9:13:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] dragon Fish

I finally got a dragonfish. I have wanted one so bad. I got him 3 days ago
and added him to my 90 gallon community tank. The thing is, I have not seen
him since I added him in there. I have looked in there with a flashlight, even
at night, searching the stump, the caves, I can't see him. Does anyone have
any info in this fish? I am wondering if he is buried in the substrate
somewhere. can't figure it out.


Seasons Greetings
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19915 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Any stress could cause a breakout in the parasite. The fish chasing them is more than enough to do this. They are semi aggresive. One thing you can do is get another one.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane <5moores@...>
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 10:08:49 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] My case of ich

I'm trying to figure out what caused this. At first I thought perhaps a
power outage, yet no other tank was affected and none of the clocks are
blinking. So that's out.

I just witnessed my largest kissing gourami vigorously sucking on my
blood parrots. They would fight him off and he kept on chasing them and
sucking on them. Could this have stressed them into ick? (This kissing
gourami is currently in a water pitcher. I'm having to breathe and calm
down or else I will flush the little s.o.b.) If so, they are the last
to show the parasites on their bodies. The pictus cat however is
literally covered with white spots. As if here were the first to get
them.
The pictus is highly annoyed and a little harassed by our elephant nose.
They like the same territory.

Does anyone see anything here that might have had a cause and effect in
this tank?

I pray I won't wake up to dead blood parrots in the morning. They look
so terrible right now.

Thanks for any thoughts.
~Leslie (still wondering what to do with this "kissing" gourami that
resides in my water pitcher.)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19916 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
They LIVE in rice paddys... HUGE rice paddies. They
can however survive in puddles. Big difference in
survive and thrive. And again, TROPICAL they do best
with a heater. I did not say that they could not
survive, then again if I put you in a box, gave you
bread everyday, picked up the poop every once in a
while you would survive too... :)

--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> In the wild they live in little puddles of water
> natually.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Melissa Laing <fyyr@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 10:02:39 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Re: how many is too
> much
>
> ACK! Did you just say put the betta in a little
> bowl??? Betta's do best in a minimum of 1gallon
> heated water (they are tropical you know). I have a
> MAJOR problem with people who have bettas for
> decorations. Betta's are fish, NOT decorations.
> Bowls should NOT be used and petstores should be
> baned
> from selling them. It's as bad as goldfish bowls!!!
> Just because they can survive in them doesn't mean
> they should survive in them. I know you are just
> thinking of the Betta's welfare so not to have his
> fins nipped, but still... a bowl?
> I'm sure he can get at least a 2.5gallon tank and a
> small heater if he wants to take his betta out...
> And IMHO he is a little overstocked, I wouldn't add
> anymore fish until I knew how my water quality was:
> Red eye tetra: 2x 3" = 6"
> tetras (I'll presume glow): 3x 1" = 3"
> Orange eye tetra: 1x 2" = 2"
> Danio 1x 2" = 2"
> Total: 13"
> Not including the Betta (2"-3")
> Although the Danio might be happier with a buddy, I
> would really, really keep an eye on my water quality
> first.
> How long has your tank been up and running for? Did
> you cycle it before you added your fish? Could you
> possibly add a few live plants? Could you upgrade to
> a 15 or even better 20g???
> What kind of filter do you have (I know you said
> carbon, but does it have a sponge too for biological
> filtration?) , a heater???
> Melissa
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________
> _________ _
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail
> beta.
> http://new.mail yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail
> beta.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19917 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 11/28/2006
Subject: Re: ICH!
On Wednesday 29 November 2006 11:04, Leslie & Dane wrote:
> My 130 has a bad, bad case of ich. I was away for a week and came back
> to this.
> I have an elephant nose and a pictus cat, both scaleless.
> Ammonia is 0, nitrites at 25...haven't tested the others yet.
> I'm doing a water change and adding salt (but will first search to see
> if the elephant nose can take salt.)
> HOW do I treat this? This is a ton of water and has 2 scaleless fish in
> it.

Hmm yeah, That's like a kilogram of salt for a tank that size.

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19918 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
I have heard this point debated.
They can live in a small cup, but they will Thrive in a larger body of water.
Ideally something temperature controlled and filtered. Yes they have a
labyrinth organ and can breath air but they also have gills. They need to use
both.

Here is a web page for the California Betta Society with information about
how to care for them.
http://www.cbsbettas.org/petbetta.html

Mike

In a message dated 11/28/2006 8:45:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jrreid3rd1@... writes:
In the wild they live in little puddles of water natually.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19919 From: donhelms@cox.net Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: "Missing" Dragon Fish
Yes, they burrow into the sand/gravel, and under things. I'm sure he's still in your tank, and he'll show himself eventually. Do an internet search for "Dragon Goby", and you'll find lots more info, including tricking your dragon fish by leaning something against the bottom of the glass that your dragon fish will rest under. He'll think he's hiding, but you'll be able to see him through your side of the glass.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19920 From: farzin afshar Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
dear freind
no tow male of this kind never never be with each other never
that is the reasen
and good news for you
one of them are pregnent
and its verey importent to take it a way
and wait 2 weeks
f.a

Deenerz@... wrote:
Stress!
Poor water conditions, rapid temp changes, or low temps.

If the Gourami is stressing the others out it could happen.

Have you raised the temp on the tank?


-----Original Message-----
From: 5moores@...
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 7:08 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] My case of ich

I'm trying to figure out what caused this. At first I thought perhaps a
power outage, yet no other tank was affected and none of the clocks are
blinking. So that's out.

I just witnessed my largest kissing gourami vigorously sucking on my
blood parrots. They would fight him off and he kept on chasing them and
sucking on them. Could this have stressed them into ick? (This kissing
gourami is currently in a water pitcher. I'm having to breathe and calm
down or else I will flush the little s.o.b.) If so, they are the last
to show the parasites on their bodies. The pictus cat however is
literally covered with white spots. As if here were the first to get
them.
The pictus is highly annoyed and a little harassed by our elephant nose.
They like the same territory.

Does anyone see anything here that might have had a cause and effect in
this tank?

I pray I won't wake up to dead blood parrots in the morning. They look
so terrible right now.

Thanks for any thoughts.
~Leslie (still wondering what to do with this "kissing" gourami that
resides in my water pitcher.)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19921 From: farzin afshar Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
i happy for you
exccelent
but there is a some think you beter know
1.fish needs some place to hide and this is so important for them
2.the bowl that you say show that your imformation is nat enogh
this kind of motors that the only way that you can take kid from them with some think so important ,if you want i can tell you how you use it
f.a

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19922 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: dragon Fish
Firstly... I hope your aquarium is a brackish setup... Because dragonfish are brackish fish... Not freshwater... They love to hide... That's why when selling them most pet stores don't have anything in the tanks for them to hide in... You won't see much of him... They eat brine shrimp and bloodworms and things of that sort... He's not going to survive off flakes... If you have gravel as substrate it needs to be VERY large... Dragonfish have large mouths and can choke to death on the substrate due to being bottom feeders... That's another thing... If you do feed him brine shrimp or blood worms you need to make sure you feed enough for the stuff to hit the bottom


----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 8:13:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] dragon Fish

I finally got a dragonfish. I have wanted one so bad. I got him 3 days ago
and added him to my 90 gallon community tank. The thing is, I have not seen
him since I added him in there. I have looked in there with a flashlight, even
at night, searching the stump, the caves, I can't see him. Does anyone have
any info in this fish? I am wondering if he is buried in the substrate
somewhere. can't figure it out.


Seasons Greetings
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19923 From: Leslie Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
I am so ticked off! My pictus cat has almost NO slime coat. My
smaller gourami has raised spots of slime all over and you can see
much of his body is bare of it.
This large kissing gourami must have caused this by sucking on all of
these poor fish! I will go and get some stress coat this morning. I
just hope it helps and it isn't too late.
I am SO MAD!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> Stress!
> Poor water conditions, rapid temp changes, or low temps.
>
> If the Gourami is stressing the others out it could happen.
>
> Have you raised the temp on the tank?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 5moores@...
> To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 7:08 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] My case of ich
>
>
> I'm trying to figure out what caused this. At first I thought perhaps a
> power outage, yet no other tank was affected and none of the clocks are
> blinking. So that's out.
>
> I just witnessed my largest kissing gourami vigorously sucking on my
> blood parrots. They would fight him off and he kept on chasing them and
> sucking on them. Could this have stressed them into ick? (This kissing
> gourami is currently in a water pitcher. I'm having to breathe and calm
> down or else I will flush the little s.o.b.) If so, they are the last
> to show the parasites on their bodies. The pictus cat however is
> literally covered with white spots. As if here were the first to get
> them.
> The pictus is highly annoyed and a little harassed by our elephant nose.
> They like the same territory.
>
> Does anyone see anything here that might have had a cause and effect in
> this tank?
>
> I pray I won't wake up to dead blood parrots in the morning. They look
> so terrible right now.
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
> ~Leslie (still wondering what to do with this "kissing" gourami that
> resides in my water pitcher.)
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and
security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19924 From: Leslie Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Are you saying to get another kissing gourami? Why would I do that?
Plus I do have two of them in the tank already. The smaller is
suffering from having his slime coat sucked off.
L

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
>
> Any stress could cause a breakout in the parasite. The fish chasing
them is more than enough to do this. They are semi aggresive. One
thing you can do is get another one.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Leslie & Dane <5moores@...>
> To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 10:08:49 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] My case of ich
>
> I'm trying to figure out what caused this. At first I thought perhaps a
> power outage, yet no other tank was affected and none of the clocks are
> blinking. So that's out.
>
> I just witnessed my largest kissing gourami vigorously sucking on my
> blood parrots. They would fight him off and he kept on chasing them and
> sucking on them. Could this have stressed them into ick? (This kissing
> gourami is currently in a water pitcher. I'm having to breathe and calm
> down or else I will flush the little s.o.b.) If so, they are the last
> to show the parasites on their bodies. The pictus cat however is
> literally covered with white spots. As if here were the first to get
> them.
> The pictus is highly annoyed and a little harassed by our elephant nose.
> They like the same territory.
>
> Does anyone see anything here that might have had a cause and effect in
> this tank?
>
> I pray I won't wake up to dead blood parrots in the morning. They look
> so terrible right now.
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
> ~Leslie (still wondering what to do with this "kissing" gourami that
> resides in my water pitcher.)
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19925 From: joe mihalich Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: "Missing" Dragon Fish
make sure the top of your aquarium has no space uncovered as the dragon
goby will occasionally try to escape the tank. they do hide under and
inside of decorations, usually coming out to feed. they have extremely
poor eyesight, which is why they like the dark spaces.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, <donhelms@...> wrote:
>
> Yes, they burrow into the sand/gravel, and under things. I'm sure
he's still in your tank, and he'll show himself eventually. Do an
internet search for "Dragon Goby", and you'll find lots more info,
including tricking your dragon fish by leaning something against the
bottom of the glass that your dragon fish will rest under. He'll think
he's hiding, but you'll be able to see him through your side of the
glass.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19926 From: Chad Plum Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
How Large of a kissing gourami is this I had a 5" that was doing the same thing but I have a 150 gal tank I went out and got an equal size and now they chase each other back and forth across the tank I am still looking for more this size and have not had any luck

Leslie & Dane <5moores@...> wrote: I'm trying to figure out what caused this. At first I thought perhaps a
power outage, yet no other tank was affected and none of the clocks are
blinking. So that's out.

I just witnessed my largest kissing gourami vigorously sucking on my
blood parrots. They would fight him off and he kept on chasing them and
sucking on them. Could this have stressed them into ick? (This kissing
gourami is currently in a water pitcher. I'm having to breathe and calm
down or else I will flush the little s.o.b.) If so, they are the last
to show the parasites on their bodies. The pictus cat however is
literally covered with white spots. As if here were the first to get
them.
The pictus is highly annoyed and a little harassed by our elephant nose.
They like the same territory.

Does anyone see anything here that might have had a cause and effect in
this tank?

I pray I won't wake up to dead blood parrots in the morning. They look
so terrible right now.

Thanks for any thoughts.
~Leslie (still wondering what to do with this "kissing" gourami that
resides in my water pitcher.)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19927 From: Mel Bowman Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
Hi everyone,
What would cause swim bladder issues in a von rio tetra? Poor thing cant seem to keep himself right side up for very long...swims sidewals, upside down, in loops, etc. Right now he's in a breeder net in my tank. He's been doing this for 3 days now. I dont think he's really interested in eating either :(

Mel


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19928 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: dragon Fish
Yes. that's him.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19929 From: Tammy Howard Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: New to group and wanted to introduce myself
Hi everyone, my name is Tammy I just joined the group and wanted to introduce myself, I have a 155 gal. freshwater community tank. When I was looking though the groups yours looked very interesting. This is one of the first groups I have joined so thanks for having me.
Seasons Greetings,
Tammy


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19930 From: Karen Millett Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
From what I understand swim bladder disease is just something that gets fish, it don't seem to matter the kind that they are. I've had it happen to my fish and they were danios but I've had it happen to other fish as well. According to the fish book I got it can be a bacterial infection or physical injury to the swim bladder. It can be treated with an antibotic in a shallow tank about two inches higher than the dorsel fin, the water that is, water changes should be done once a day if possible. Unfortunately mine didn't survive cause it was too far advanced and medication was not readily avaliable. I hope this helps, Karen.


> From: Mel Bowman <swismiself@...>
> Date: 2006/11/29 Wed AM 10:54:31 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
>
> Hi everyone,
> What would cause swim bladder issues in a von rio tetra? Poor thing cant seem to keep himself right side up for very long...swims sidewals, upside down, in loops, etc. Right now he's in a breeder net in my tank. He's been doing this for 3 days now. I dont think he's really interested in eating either :(
>
> Mel
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19931 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: HELP!
My pictus just died. His skin was literally shedding off his body. It
turned a thick white then shed off in sheets.

My blood parrot now has the thick white beginning to develop on him.
WHAT is this?! He is laying on his side and rarely gets up. He gets up
to eat then lays back down.

HELP!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19932 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
I know they do better in a filtered tank. unfortuantely you really cant put much with them. Thats why mine are in a 1 gallon filtered tank.


----- Original Message ----
From: "Deenerz@..." <Deenerz@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 3:28:10 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Re: how many is too much

I have heard this point debated.
They can live in a small cup, but they will Thrive in a larger body of water.
Ideally something temperature controlled and filtered. Yes they have a
labyrinth organ and can breath air but they also have gills. They need to use
both.

Here is a web page for the California Betta Society with information about
how to care for them.
http://www.cbsbetta s.org/petbetta. html

Mike

In a message dated 11/28/2006 8:45:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jrreid3rd1@yahoo. com writes:
In the wild they live in little puddles of water natually.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19933 From: Joseph Reid Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: My case of ich
Because some fish take need their own kinds. Also the same size.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie <5moores@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 8:47:00 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My case of ich

Are you saying to get another kissing gourami? Why would I do that?
Plus I do have two of them in the tank already. The smaller is
suffering from having his slime coat sucked off.
L

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ ...> wrote:
>
> Any stress could cause a breakout in the parasite. The fish chasing
them is more than enough to do this. They are semi aggresive. One
thing you can do is get another one.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Leslie & Dane <5moores@... >
> To: uniquaria@yahoogrou ps.com; AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 10:08:49 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] My case of ich
>
> I'm trying to figure out what caused this. At first I thought perhaps a
> power outage, yet no other tank was affected and none of the clocks are
> blinking. So that's out.
>
> I just witnessed my largest kissing gourami vigorously sucking on my
> blood parrots. They would fight him off and he kept on chasing them and
> sucking on them. Could this have stressed them into ick? (This kissing
> gourami is currently in a water pitcher. I'm having to breathe and calm
> down or else I will flush the little s.o.b.) If so, they are the last
> to show the parasites on their bodies. The pictus cat however is
> literally covered with white spots. As if here were the first to get
> them.
> The pictus is highly annoyed and a little harassed by our elephant nose.
> They like the same territory.
>
> Does anyone see anything here that might have had a cause and effect in
> this tank?
>
> I pray I won't wake up to dead blood parrots in the morning. They look
> so terrible right now.
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
> ~Leslie (still wondering what to do with this "kissing" gourami that
> resides in my water pitcher.)
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19934 From: Aaron Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Hi Nicole,

Just checking to see if your question got answered.

Welcome to the group and thanks for joining.

Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nicolebitan17"
<nicolebitan17@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, My name is Nicole. Just join in the group. New kid in the block.
I
> am trying to know about Discus Fish food. What is the best in the
> market and the actual pricing? ANyone can help me on this?
>
> Nicole.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19935 From: Aaron Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: New to group and wanted to introduce myself
Hi Tammy,

Welcome to the group and thanks for joining.

Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Tammy Howard <sassytamgem@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi everyone, my name is Tammy I just joined the group and wanted to
introduce myself, I have a 155 gal. freshwater community tank. When I
was looking though the groups yours looked very interesting. This is
one of the first groups I have joined so thanks for having me.
> Seasons Greetings,
> Tammy
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19936 From: habskahuna Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Angelfish problem?
I have several angelfish in a mature 90g community tank. No major
recent changes or new additions, always well maintained, with good
water quality. Just today I noticed something on the oldest
angel...on the bottom edge of his tail fin, there are 2 very tiny
black pebble-looking bumps. He is acting normal, eating well,
interacting exactly the way he always does. I'm not sure how
concerned I should be. Anyone experienced this?

Carmen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19937 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Question.
Someone I know who lives in Oklahoma has a 45 bow front aquarium with these
fishes.

Neon Tetras
Cardinal Tetras
Albino Corydoras
Mollies
Swords
Guppies

Recently her guppies kept dying. She has an air pump, heater, filter, and a
light hood. She uses aqua safe, easy balance, and stress zyme. She had her
aquarium set-up for a while now. Recently her guppies are slowly dying.
Every time she puts a new fish it dies in a couple of days. She acclimates
the fish before letting it go. She changes 25% of the water each week. She
also started using melafix as a preventive measure so as the other fish won
t get any disease or sickness that the ones she put in have. What could
cause the guppies to die? The temp is 75 on her heater. What else did I
forget. I haven't ask her to check the ph and other stuff about her water
condition.

THANKS,
RAYMOND TREMOR
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19938 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
There is an antibiotic you can use in your tank. I cured my GhostKnife fish
of that. there is no known cause. but here this site talks about it.

_clinical signs of poor health_
(http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/disease/clinicalsigns.htm)


Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19939 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
What causes them to swim erratically is that gas builds up in the bladder,
making it swell, then it presses on the vertebrae.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19940 From: Nicole Tan Date: 11/29/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
hi Aaron,

No I have not answer but have got other member's answers



Nicole Tan Beng Im



----- Original Message ----
From: Aaron <anonymous122899@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:08:35 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Hello

Hi Nicole,

Just checking to see if your question got answered.

Welcome to the group and thanks for joining.

Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "nicolebitan17"
<nicolebitan17@ ...> wrote:
>
> Hi, My name is Nicole. Just join in the group. New kid in the block.
I
> am trying to know about Discus Fish food. What is the best in the
> market and the actual pricing? ANyone can help me on this?
>
> Nicole.
>




Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19941 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Hello
Hi Nicole and Welcome,

I keep a fair share of discus including a few breeding pairs. As far as food goes mine get a variety which includes: Beefheart mix (sometimes chicken or turkey heart), frozen mysis, brine shrimp, blood worms, live blackworms, Spirunila couple times a week, Tetra color bits on occassion, cichlid pellets (they have one in particuliar they like the others they basically turn their noses up along with every other fish in the house), and if I happen to get too much out of a culture they sometimes get the leftovers just depends what tank is closest at the time. Best there are lots of opinions out there, these are just some of the stuff that these are fed and they all seem quite happy with the variety.

Shannon

Nicole Tan <nicolebitan17@...> wrote:
hi Aaron,

No I have not answer but have got other member's answers


Nicole Tan Beng Im

----- Original Message ----
From: Aaron <anonymous122899@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:08:35 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Hello

Hi Nicole,

Just checking to see if your question got answered.

Welcome to the group and thanks for joining.

Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "nicolebitan17"
<nicolebitan17@ ...> wrote:
>
> Hi, My name is Nicole. Just join in the group. New kid in the block.
I
> am trying to know about Discus Fish food. What is the best in the
> market and the actual pricing? ANyone can help me on this?
>
> Nicole.
>

Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19942 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Fwd: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!
Hi Leslie:

First off, I'm so sorry that you and your fish family are going
through this. After searching google and finding nothing on your
problem, I wrote to my aerobic instructor friend who provided this
info. I hope it helps.

Take care, aquatic friend.


Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it



>Hi Jeannie,
>
>If it happened fast, like the fish went from eating and swimming
>normally to these patches and death in 24-48 hours then it is likely
>Columnaris a fast moving and almost always deadly bacteria.
>
>Cure for Columnaris: (also known as Mouth Fungus) The entire tank,
>including fish who are not yet showing symptoms, needs to be treated.
>
>Start with a partial water change of 20-30%
>Slowly turn water temp down to 76. (Columnaris is slowed by the cooler water)
>Treat entire tank with Maracyn and Maracyn-two--both together.
>Feed only sparingly.
>Add some dissolved aquarium salt. (1-2 TEASpoons per gallon, added gradually)
>Increase areation.
>
>If the whitish, peeling skin did not come on quickly and was
>preceeded by the fish scratching and itching excessively over a
>period of a few weeks or more then it could be various parasites.
>Chilodonella, Velvet are a couple that come to mind but there are others.
>
>Please pass this on to her.
>How's your tank?
>
>Robin
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:jfazio@...>~~JFazio~~
>To: <mailto:rlovell@...>rlovell@...
>Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 8:46 PM
>Subject: Fwd: [AquaticLife] HELP!
>
>Hey Robin, ever hear of this? Leslie is always helping people and
>now her fishies are in trouble. Thanks.
>
>
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>>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:19:12 -0600
>>Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!
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>>
>>My pictus just died. His skin was literally shedding off his body. It
>>turned a thick white then shed off in sheets.
>>
>>My blood parrot now has the thick white beginning to develop on him.
>>WHAT is this?! He is laying on his side and rarely gets up. He gets up
>>to eat then lays back down.
>>
>>HELP!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19943 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
Glad to hear :)
I've had success keeping them in community tanks.
Heavily planted with hiding space, schooling fish with
a minimum of 6... and the younger they are to start,
the better. AND... there are experienced Betta keepers
who even have several males living together, and
females are pretty good in a comunity setting so long
as you have 5 or more (and lots of plants)
Melissa

--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> I know they do better in a filtered tank.
> unfortuantely you really cant put much with them.
> Thats why mine are in a 1 gallon filtered tank.
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19944 From: hank voss Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Mel Bowman <swismiself@...>
wrote:
> =====================
Mel:
This is not uncommon in von rios and a lot of small tets
(neon,glow lites etc.) Sometimes they stop on their own but usually
you can kiss them goodby.As far as i know there is no medicine for
it.No one is sure what causes it.Swim bladder problems can be caused
by a number of conditions.Female von rios often swell up and tend to
float usually they are egg bound and the eggs inside the female are
going bad and the resulting gas makes them lose their equilibrium
sometimes if you catch it early enough you can cure it with epsom
salts.or with a needle(which i doubt you want to get envolved in).
Poor water cond.s seem to make this cond. occur mor freq. with
von rion.Its not transferable to the other fish.I hope this helps
you a little.
Regards Hank

> Hi everyone,
> What would cause swim bladder issues in a von rio tetra? Poor
thing cant seem to keep himself right side up for very long...swims
sidewals, upside down, in loops, etc. Right now he's in a breeder
net in my tank. He's been doing this for 3 days now.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19945 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: HELP!
I am soo sorry to hear about your pictus... and your
blood parrot. I wish I could help. :(
I've got my fingers crossed for you... and sent out a
prayer.
Melissa

--- Leslie & Dane <5moores@...> wrote:

> My pictus just died. His skin was literally
> shedding off his body. It
> turned a thick white then shed off in sheets.
>
> My blood parrot now has the thick white beginning to
> develop on him.
> WHAT is this?! He is laying on his side and rarely
> gets up. He gets up
> to eat then lays back down.
>
> HELP!
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19946 From: Nedra Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: I have little worm like creatures floating and wiggling in my quar
I seeded a 10 gal setup with water from my main tank about 6 weeks ago
and have continued to use the water siphoned from that tank to "feed"
the bio filter.

I also have two stones from the main tank and two little crypts in the
10 gal. No floor covering except for some gravel in the crypt pots
for their roots.

I noticed the two stones had little dark lines on them a couple of
weeks ago -- but thought it was just algae. I now believe it is
colonies of these little guys that are floating and wiggling through
the current. They wiggle like tubifex worms but are only about 1/8-
1/4" long and thin as a human hair.

What are they!!!??? Should I Prazi this tank or are they just
harmless little invertebrates that are taking advantage of a tank with
no fish in it?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19947 From: DanK1961@aol.com Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Question.
Insufficient filtration and or overcrowding.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19948 From: Cory Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Picked up a Snail
We bought a small banana plant to put in our betta aquarium and now I have little snails appearing. We've
gotten 3 out so far and I'm wondering if there is anything I can put in the tank to eliminate the snails that
won't hurt my betta? Thanks in advance. Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19949 From: joe mihalich Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Question.
first of all, i would tell her to stop using so many chemicals
like easy balance, stress zyme and melafix. just because these
products are on the shelf doesn't mean to use so many. if the tank
was acclimated as stated, and she stops using all those chemicals,
she should check the phosphate level of her tap water. if their are
no visible signs of sickness or illness,she should continue doing her
weekly water changes and use only the aqua safe for removing any
metal particles left in the tap water. i have used a product called
pura phas lock to lower the phosphate level of my tap water. before
using this product, i was losing fish left and right. since using the
product, i have lost no fish and have successfully bred my buffalo
head cichlids.
one question, is it just the guppies that she is losing? if so, i
would probably get my guppies somewhere else. or it could be that she
needs to spend some time watching the fish and checking out their
behavior patterns. the fancy tails of the guppies are good targets
for other fish to nip at, which, would cause a lot of stress on the
fish being nipped. if she observes these patterns of a certain fish
harrassing other fish, remove that fish.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rei - Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@...> wrote:
>
> Someone I know who lives in Oklahoma has a 45 bow front aquarium
with these
> fishes.
>
> Neon Tetras
> Cardinal Tetras
> Albino Corydoras
> Mollies
> Swords
> Guppies
>
> Recently her guppies kept dying. She has an air pump, heater,
filter, and a
> light hood. She uses aqua safe, easy balance, and stress zyme. She
had her
> aquarium set-up for a while now. Recently her guppies are slowly
dying.
> Every time she puts a new fish it dies in a couple of days. She
acclimates
> the fish before letting it go. She changes 25% of the water each
week. She
> also started using melafix as a preventive measure so as the other
fish won
> t get any disease or sickness that the ones she put in have. What
could
> cause the guppies to die? The temp is 75 on her heater. What else
did I
> forget. I haven't ask her to check the ph and other stuff about her
water
> condition.
>
> THANKS,
> RAYMOND TREMOR
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19950 From: joe mihalich Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
a problem for most people with live plants...snails. all live plants
come with very small snails, so small, the eye can't always see them
til it is too late. their are products out there that claim to get rid
of the snails, but, remember, it is just a claim. i even had my lfs
suggest something to rid my tank, they were honest about it and pointed
out a couple of products that they stocked, but, also said that they
believed the only way to truly rid your aquarium of snails is to empty
it and thoroughly clean it out and start anew. no one wants to do that,
so, here is a way of controlling them. get a smallcup or lid that
floats, keep it confined to a corner of your tank and put in some fish
food. the food will attract the snails to eat, and you can net them out
or pick them out a group at a time. the idea here is that eventually,
you will have removed all of them before they could mate. good luck.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Cory" <wdwwife@...> wrote:
>
> We bought a small banana plant to put in our betta aquarium and now I
have little snails appearing. We've
> gotten 3 out so far and I'm wondering if there is anything I can put
in the tank to eliminate the snails that
> won't hurt my betta? Thanks in advance. Cory
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19951 From: DanK1961@aol.com Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
a snail eating fish - put a dish with food in it on the bottom and all the
snails will go into the dish and you can remove them


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19952 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Thanks for the info. We got one out yesterday, a really small one, and flushed it down the bathroom sink. Several minutes later, my husband noticed it crawling back up the side of the sink. It was then flushed down somewhere else and was gone. They seem to be relentless......

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19953 From: Betty Lou Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Cloudy water back - SIGH...
Stink seems to be under control but the cloudiness is still worsening
about every 3rd or 4th day.

I had to go to Petco to get the bio wheel filter, and the lady there
suggested using a black tarp. I guess I am ready to try that now that
the filter has not proven to be effective with the cloudiness. My
question is, if I were to do this, how long do I leave the covering on,
and would a black garbage bag be sufficient.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19954 From: Melissa Laing Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
I don't understand why people hate snails so much... I
WANT more and mine just doesn't want to reproduce...
:p
Melissa

--- Cory <wdwwife@...> wrote:

> We bought a small banana plant to put in our betta
> aquarium and now I have little snails appearing.
> We've
> gotten 3 out so far and I'm wondering if there is
> anything I can put in the tank to eliminate the
> snails that
> won't hurt my betta? Thanks in advance. Cory
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 19955 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
I wish I had some more as well. They are great cleaners!!! =)

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Melissa Laing
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 3:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Picked up a Snail



I don't understand why people hate snails so much... I
WANT more and mine just doesn't want to reproduce...
:p
Melissa

--- Cory <wdwwife@yahoo. <mailto:wdwwife%40yahoo.com> com> wrote:

> We bought a small banana plant to put in our betta
> aquarium and now I have little snails appearing.
> We've
> gotten 3 out so far and I'm wondering if there is
> anything I can put in the tank to eliminate the
> snails that
> won't hurt my betta? Thanks in advance. Cory
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

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s.yahoo.com/r-index






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19956 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
salt treatment might do it. Though, they do a fine job in cleaning the tank
and gravel



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19957 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Also clown loaches are good for that.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19958 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
I've had snails before and they take over everything.......reproduce, normally, like crazy.....

---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19959 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: how many is too much
If the betta males are siblings and have been raised together, there
usually is no problem keeping them together. Sometimes, though, you get
a particularly aggressive individual, who just will not play nice with
others when he grows older. If you are trying to mix males that are
young, but not siblings and have not been raised together, it is a real
crapshoot. Maybe you can get away with it, maybe not.

I've not done this with bettas, but I have kept the common paradise fish
in a pond outdoors. It appears they need about 24" diameter areas to
live without anything other than display aggression. If a male was to
invade another's territory, displays would start, and sometimes it would
come to physical aggression before one was moved out of the territory,
and not always the one who had claimed it first. Females were normally
found more toward the center of the pond (males all had their
territories around the edges, with a few near plantings that were not
one the edge) moving from territory to territory until they found a male
that suited them.

I would suspect the same would hold for bettas as well, something that
would be hard to duplicate in an aquarium, simply because one would need
a very large aquarium (honey, I think I may take out that wall for an
aquarium. It's a very good location, facing south and the water can
retain the heat and help us with our heating bills in the winter . . ..)

Oh, just a thought, I started with about 50 paradise fish in the spring,
and lost count of the ones I pulled out late in fall.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Melissa Laing
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Re: how many is too much

Glad to hear :)
I've had success keeping them in community tanks.
Heavily planted with hiding space, schooling fish with
a minimum of 6... and the younger they are to start,
the better. AND... there are experienced Betta keepers
who even have several males living together, and
females are pretty good in a comunity setting so long
as you have 5 or more (and lots of plants)
Melissa

--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> I know they do better in a filtered tank.
> unfortuantely you really cant put much with them.
> Thats why mine are in a 1 gallon filtered tank.
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19960 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
A lesson being taught here. You should at least inspect the plants prior
to placing them in your tank to see if there are any critters or eggs
that you do not wish to introduce.

To try to ensure that nothing is introduced, a short soak in a potassium
permanganate solution or an alum solution should do the trick.

Now that you have the snails in the tank, the best you may be able to do
is to try to control them. Hand picking them is one way, but rather than
flush, as one person has already mentioned, why not crush and place them
back in the tank as a treat for your fish? Heck, you can even just crush
them against the glass. Often they will stick there for a while ad give
your fish a good chance to discover the goodie up against the glass.

If you have a number that is not manageable, you can get a lettuce clip
and hang a piece of lettuce in the tank, which will attack the snails
(and hungry vegetarian fish) to it. Let it sit overnight and pull in the
morning. Repeat as necessary. You can make a decision to add a fish that
is a snail eater into the tank, either as a permanent or transient
resident, moving it (them) to another tank when the job is done,
bringing them back when a refresher cleaning is needed.

If certain snail species become established in your tank, it seems to be
a never ending battle to remove them. If you can nip them in the bud,
you should be able to remove them.

One final note, if you have very soft water in your tank, the snails
will not survive. They need a certain amount of calcium present to build
their shells.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 2:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Picked up a Snail

We bought a small banana plant to put in our betta aquarium and now I
have little snails appearing. We've
gotten 3 out so far and I'm wondering if there is anything I can put in
the tank to eliminate the snails that
won't hurt my betta? Thanks in advance. Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19961 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Cloudy water back - SIGH...
Denying light to a tank with a bacterial bloom will not help one way or
the other. If it were green water, then it would definitely help. The
important thing here are your water tests. What are you getting for
ammonia levels? Nitrite? Nitrate? Your tank is probably still in the
midst of establishing the cycle to control the levels of ammonia and
nitrite--water changes are used to help control nitrate, and/or live
plants in the tank. There are anaerobic ways of ding it also, but they
are not easy, so we will not discuss those.

Since you are noting a change every three or four days, that means
something. What is happening in/to your tank every third or fourth day?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 4:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy water back - SIGH...

Stink seems to be under control but the cloudiness is still worsening
about every 3rd or 4th day.

I had to go to Petco to get the bio wheel filter, and the lady there
suggested using a black tarp. I guess I am ready to try that now that
the filter has not proven to be effective with the cloudiness. My
question is, if I were to do this, how long do I leave the covering on,
and would a black garbage bag be sufficient.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19962 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
I encourage snails...Problem is...my fish eat them up too quickly hehehe. I
even go to the local pet stores and they give me their snails.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, 30 November 2006 21:34
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Picked up a Snail



A lesson being taught here. You should at least inspect the plants prior
to placing them in your tank to see if there are any critters or eggs
that you do not wish to introduce.

To try to ensure that nothing is introduced, a short soak in a potassium
permanganate solution or an alum solution should do the trick.

Now that you have the snails in the tank, the best you may be able to do
is to try to control them. Hand picking them is one way, but rather than
flush, as one person has already mentioned, why not crush and place them
back in the tank as a treat for your fish? Heck, you can even just crush
them against the glass. Often they will stick there for a while ad give
your fish a good chance to discover the goodie up against the glass.

If you have a number that is not manageable, you can get a lettuce clip
and hang a piece of lettuce in the tank, which will attack the snails
(and hungry vegetarian fish) to it. Let it sit overnight and pull in the
morning. Repeat as necessary. You can make a decision to add a fish that
is a snail eater into the tank, either as a permanent or transient
resident, moving it (them) to another tank when the job is done,
bringing them back when a refresher cleaning is needed.

If certain snail species become established in your tank, it seems to be
a never ending battle to remove them. If you can nip them in the bud,
you should be able to remove them.

One final note, if you have very soft water in your tank, the snails
will not survive. They need a certain amount of calcium present to build
their shells.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 2:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Picked up a Snail

We bought a small banana plant to put in our betta aquarium and now I
have little snails appearing. We've
gotten 3 out so far and I'm wondering if there is anything I can put in
the tank to eliminate the snails that
won't hurt my betta? Thanks in advance. Cory






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19963 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 11/30/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Ha, send me your address and I will send you tons!

:)

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Picked up a Snail


I wish I had some more as well. They are great cleaners!!! =)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19964 From: dblacktroy Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Tankmates for arowana
I've joined the group for quite sometimes but never sent any messages
so far.

I would like to ask about Arowana fish tankmates. Currently I have two
36x18x186 tank, one with 6 Discus & the other with 6 Angel. It would
be greatly appreciated if somebody in this group could give me
advice/opinion whether Arowana can be a good tankmates for either two
species.

I'm asking your advice/opinion because my friend are going to give
away his pearl arowana.

Thanks


Razali
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19965 From: DanK1961@aol.com Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Tankmates for arowana
Should be as long as the Arrowana can't swallow them or is never hungry
enough.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19966 From: Cory Walter Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Thanks for good information......especially the lettuce thing. I haven't seen any now for several days so I hope we got them (but I doubt it)......we have a filter system on our water and maybe that will help, too.

---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19967 From: n9010d Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frederic Ouellet"
<fcouellet@...> wrote:

Cynthia: I will take you up on that offer to send out your extra
snails, all costs paid befor you ship them. Fred Rhoda.



> Ha, send me your address and I will send you tons!
>
> :)
>
> Cynthia
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Leslie & Dane
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Picked up a Snail
>
>
> I wish I had some more as well. They are great cleaners!!! =)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19968 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Cynthia:
Please contact at: fredrhoda@... , I will send all information to you than, thanks.

Fred.

----- Original Message -----
From: n9010d
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 9:10 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Picked up a Snail


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frederic Ouellet"
<fcouellet@...> wrote:

Cynthia: I will take you up on that offer to send out your extra
snails, all costs paid befor you ship them. Fred Rhoda.

> Ha, send me your address and I will send you tons!
>
> :)
>
> Cynthia
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Leslie & Dane
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Picked up a Snail
>
>
> I wish I had some more as well. They are great cleaners!!! =)
>






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.3/561 - Release Date: 12/1/2006 6:36 AM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19969 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Hi:

The address is:
Fred Rhoda

7477 East Harbor Road
Marblehead, Ohio 43440

419-734-4580


I have six med. size lepord green puffers, and the snail feeding is a very nice treat for them. They cleaned me out of two 30 gallon tanks of snails in four weeks and I am having trouble gettin another batch of snails to grow in 5 gallon tanks. Belive it or not, this is one time I wish the snails would take off and populate for me.

I will cover all costs for you up front, just let me know what the costs are and I will send a check (your choice) to you right away.

Thanks for all of the help;

Fred.


Cynthia:
Please contact at: fredrhoda@... , I will send all information to you than, thanks.

Fred.

----- Original Message -----
From: n9010d
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 9:10 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Picked up a Snail

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frederic Ouellet"
<fcouellet@...> wrote:

Cynthia: I will take you up on that offer to send out your extra
snails, all costs paid befor you ship them. Fred Rhoda.

> Ha, send me your address and I will send you tons!
>
> :)
>
> Cynthia
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Leslie & Dane
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Picked up a Snail
>
>
> I wish I had some more as well. They are great cleaners!!! =)
>

----------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.3/561 - Release Date: 12/1/2006 6:36 AM

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.3/561 - Release Date: 12/1/2006 6:36 AM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19970 From: FR�D�RIC OUELLET Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
Sure, just email me off site and I will gladly send you some. Three of my
tanks have them right now.....

Cynthia


>From: "n9010d" <fredrhoda@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Picked up a Snail
>Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2006 14:10:41 -0000
>
>--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frederic Ouellet"
><fcouellet@...> wrote:
>
> Cynthia: I will take you up on that offer to send out your extra
>snails, all costs paid befor you ship them. Fred Rhoda.
>
>
>
> > Ha, send me your address and I will send you tons!
> >
> > :)
> >
> > Cynthia
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Leslie & Dane
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 PM
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Picked up a Snail
> >
> >
> > I wish I had some more as well. They are great cleaners!!! =)
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19971 From: Mel Bowman Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
Thanks everyone! I'm actually surprised my litte guy is still alive, as it doesnt seem to be eating any of the food that I've been offering. I've been dropping some presoaked flakes for him...and maybe he's eating a little, who knows. I do think it's a male as he is more colorful than some of my other fish.

At least everyone else seems to be doing ok. I'll keep up my small daily water chances and see if he comes back around.

Mel


---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19972 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Green water
I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
advised 8 hours per day only.

I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
(tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.

My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which is 7.8.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19973 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: MEAN angelfish
My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time she pokes
her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them doing
this ever before.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19974 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Hi all,

Ya know, this is funny. I have a 29 gallon and a 12 gallon tank and my lights are on for 12-15 hours every day and I have never had green water or even cloudy water. I have been doing this for years now and have not had a problem with allot of algae or water problems. Perhaps I am just lucky, but my plants love it and they grow wonderfully.

Take care all,

Ivan
South Dakota
AquaticElf@...

----- Original Message -----
From: ~~JFazio~~
To: aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 4:33 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Green water


I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
advised 8 hours per day only.

I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
(tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.

My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which is 7.8.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19975 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
How strong is your light? How many watts?
~L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 4:33 PM
To: aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Green water



I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
advised 8 hours per day only.

I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
(tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.

My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which is
7.8.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. <mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com> com
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioriti
<http://www.prioritiesonline.com> esonline.com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpad <http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio> a.com/jfazio to
preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19976 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
hmmmm, this behavior is odd, usually the mated pair are friendly tward each other. If it were me, I would remove the male before he kills her as that may well happen. Angelfish can be very agressive as I have them and have had to get rid of some too just beacuse of that. Why the change, we can only guess but yet come up with no real conclusive answer to this behavior.

Ivan
AquaticElf@...


----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com ; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 4:24 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] MEAN angelfish


My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time she pokes
her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them doing
this ever before.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19977 From: litchfield_tim Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Hi, I raised angels for years and the only time I have seen this is
when there is 2 males and one female and the dominate male will nip
at the other male until he kills him. I learned this the hard way
when I started years ago. If you don't have any more than the two in
the tank you need to get the one he is nipping out of the tank
because he will kill her. Hopes this helps.
Tim
In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie &
Dane" <5moores@...> wrote:
>
> My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
> behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
> Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time she
pokes
> her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them
doing
> this ever before.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19978 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
I know. I stumped too.
What really gets me is that they have spawned once before w/ no
problems. She ate the eggs once they turned into wigglers, but no
aggressive behavior came before or after the fact. =( I do NOT want to
separate these fish. They are siblings and are both quite blue in
color. So I would LOVE LOVE LOVE to have them breed.
I did a water change in hopes that would calm him down, but no luck so
far.
=(
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of AquaticElf
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 5:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] MEAN angelfish



hmmmm, this behavior is odd, usually the mated pair are friendly tward
each other. If it were me, I would remove the male before he kills her
as that may well happen. Angelfish can be very agressive as I have them
and have had to get rid of some too just beacuse of that. Why the
change, we can only guess but yet come up with no real conclusive answer
to this behavior.

Ivan
AquaticElf@abe. <mailto:AquaticElf%40abe.midco.net> midco.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com ;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 4:24 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] MEAN angelfish

My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time she pokes
her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them doing
this ever before.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19979 From: Sam Tamura Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
I would go back to 10 - 12 hours of light. I use 12 hours myself and
supplement with injected CO2. This strictly an unsupported guess, but
I think with less hours of light, your plants are no longer taking in
as many nutrients leaving more for the algae to use. Though, now that
you have green water, perhaps extending the hours light won't help and
may make things worse.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
> which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
> advised 8 hours per day only.
>
> I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
> (tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.
>
> My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which
is 7.8.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19980 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
I am afraid you will have to seperate them right away. He will kill her and there is nothing you can do about it. It is sad when this happens, but to avoid a death, they shall have to be seperated I am afraid. It is also possible that the agressive angel may never do well with any other of his kind.

Ivan
AquaticElf@...


----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 6:22 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] MEAN angelfish


I know. I stumped too.
What really gets me is that they have spawned once before w/ no
problems. She ate the eggs once they turned into wigglers, but no
aggressive behavior came before or after the fact. =( I do NOT want to
separate these fish. They are siblings and are both quite blue in
color. So I would LOVE LOVE LOVE to have them breed.
I did a water change in hopes that would calm him down, but no luck so
far.
=(
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of AquaticElf
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 5:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] MEAN angelfish

hmmmm, this behavior is odd, usually the mated pair are friendly tward
each other. If it were me, I would remove the male before he kills her
as that may well happen. Angelfish can be very agressive as I have them
and have had to get rid of some too just beacuse of that. Why the
change, we can only guess but yet come up with no real conclusive answer
to this behavior.

Ivan
AquaticElf@abe. <mailto:AquaticElf%40abe.midco.net> midco.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Leslie & Dane
To: uniquaria@yahoogrou <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com ;
AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 4:24 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] MEAN angelfish

My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time she pokes
her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them doing
this ever before.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19981 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Hi Leslie:

How's it going with your fish? Better, I hope.

Here is the info regarding my plant light:
Single Strip Lights (5"W x 2-1/2"H) Freshwater

Length Watts
Components

48" 130 watt Includes two 65
watt21" 6700°K(Straight pin base)

Ivan, if anything is going to happen to anyone,
it happens to me! Better me than you, right? ;-)

You know, I'm reading that the poop of my fish is
causing this problem, yet I clean the tank every
week. The gravel I use is the sandy stuff, which
is harder to clean. I've noticed that it's easier
for the python to suck up the sand as well as the
gunk, so I tend to not swish the sand around -
instead going for what's on top. Could that have
something to do with my having this problem?

Thanks.

Jeannie


At 06:43 PM 12/1/2006, you wrote:

>How strong is your light? How many watts?
>~L
>
><<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
>Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 4:33 PM
>To: <mailto:aquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Green water
>
>I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
>which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
>advised 8 hours per day only.
>
>I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
>(tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.
>
>My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which is
>7.8.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. <mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com> com
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: <http://www.prioriti>http://www.prioriti
><http://www.prioritiesonline.com> esonline.com
>:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
>Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
><http://www.mysilpad>http://www.mysilpad
><http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio> a.com/jfazio to
>preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
>sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>




Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19982 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Tankmates for arowana
----- Original Message -----
From: dblacktroy
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 5:17 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tankmates for arowana


I've joined the group for quite sometimes but never sent any messages
so far.

I would like to ask about Arowana fish tankmates. Currently I have two
36x18x186 tank, one with 6 Discus & the other with 6 Angel. It would
be greatly appreciated if somebody in this group could give me
advice/opinion whether Arowana can be a good tankmates for either two
species.

I'm asking your advice/opinion because my friend are going to give
away his pearl arowana.

Thanks

Razali
arrowanas generally don't make good tankmates with nearly anything, at any rate it will rapidly grow to the point that even if it were in the tank by itself, it would be crowded




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19983 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
That green is an algae bloom. What type of filter do you have? if its one with cartridges you can wrap cheese cloth around it to filter it out.


----- Original Message ----
From: ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...>
To: aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 1, 2006 5:33:26 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Green water

I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
advised 8 hours per day only.

I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
(tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.

My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which is 7.8.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. com
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioriti esonline. com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpad a.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Cheap talk?
Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
http://voice.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19984 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/1/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Me neither i kept my lights on 10-12 hours too and also made sure it was a bulb for live plants and replaced it once a year.


----- Original Message ----
From: AquaticElf <AquaticElf@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 1, 2006 6:40:53 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Green water

Hi all,

Ya know, this is funny. I have a 29 gallon and a 12 gallon tank and my lights are on for 12-15 hours every day and I have never had green water or even cloudy water. I have been doing this for years now and have not had a problem with allot of algae or water problems. Perhaps I am just lucky, but my plants love it and they grow wonderfully.

Take care all,

Ivan
South Dakota
AquaticElf@abe. midco.net

----- Original Message -----
From: ~~JFazio~~
To: aquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 4:33 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Green water

I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
advised 8 hours per day only.

I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
(tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.

My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which is 7.8.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. com
Priorities Errand Management, LLC :: http://www.prioriti esonline. com
:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpad a.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business?
Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19985 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Hi Leslie, Be advised, "normal" behavior for Angelfish is quite
variable, depending on the individual fish; each Angel can and will
behave slightly differently within the confines of the known innate
responses of this species to varying stimuli. This aggressiveness,
which in itself can vary as to intensity, is within the bounds of
Angelfish's behavior even though not all of them may behave as such.
Then too, it may not always be the male which displays this behavior.

First of all, are you sure she did not already lay her eggs and eat
them before you noticed this behavior in the male? If this were the
case, this action by the female would promote an aggressive behavior of
most any Angelfish male towards his partner, or any other male
substrate-spawning Cichlid.

If you are sure that she has not spawned yet, this may be a case of the
male getting impatient with the female if she is being reluctant to
spawn or just delaying spawning possibly because she may not be quite
ready yet. Since I'm assuming that you probably would have seen them
spawning earlier, although not necessarily so, I'm inclined to believe
that this scenario is most probably what is presently taking place.
With his persistant aggressiveness, this will further delay the female
from willingly partaking in the spawning sequence with him.

Your water change in this case was one of the worst things you could
have done as this is a strong stimulus for spawning, and will further
his aggression. Yes, this too will stimulate the female, but at this
time since she is being beaten up she will generally not be induced to
breed now even if she is ready. While water changes of course should
be a regular procedure of general maintenance, when breeding Angels
(and most other New World Cichlids) such water changes should be done
only after the both fish are properly conditioned, to act as a further
stimulus for them to start the spawning procedure.

Another strong stimulus (besides fresh water and higher temperature) is
lighting, which (although I could be wrong) I am betting that you have
strong direct lighting immediately on top of the aquarium (as from a
hood) which you are keeping on even through his present aggressive
behavior. If this is the case, which will only promote his unwanted
behavior, turn the aquarium lighting off and keep the pair in subdued
lighting; this will help defuse his aggressiveness.

If his behavior has been the result of her eating the eggs, as I first
mentioned as a possible cause, this subdued lighting will again help
defuse his aggressiveness which usually subsides the next day -- if
this was what started it. In any case, keeping them in dim lighting
will almost always calm him down. While nipped and torn fins are
obviously not wanted, they will grow back if given the chance -- once
he calms down. But, you don't want him to attack his partner's eyes,
as some Angelfish will do. This can easily result in clouding of the
eyes and possible infection, leading to blindness if not treated
properly. If you notice this behavior, and if all else fails, it would
be best to separate them temporarily until she heals. They can always
be put back together again when she is healed up, and better
conditioned for breeding which will make her more eager for spawning,
but watch the lighting in any case; this simple stimulus (lighting) can
make all the difference between a harmonious pair and a seemingly
impossible pairing when too strongly illuminated. Keep us advised.
Ray




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
> behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
> Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time she
pokes
> her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them doing
> this ever before.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19986 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Hi Joesph:

I have two filters. Both are Tetra Whispers; one
is a 30 gallon, the other, a 60, which is not all
that quiet. Any better filters that you can
recommend? Quieter, yet powerful enough to not
need cheesecloth, which is for what, the gunk? Thanks.

Jeannie

At 01:58 AM 12/2/2006, you wrote:

>That green is an algae bloom. What type of
>filter do you have? if its one with cartridges
>you can wrap cheese cloth around it to filter it out.
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: ~~JFazio~~ <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...>
>To: <mailto:aquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Friday, December 1, 2006 5:33:26 PM
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Green water
>
>I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
>which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
>advised 8 hours per day only.
>
>I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
>(tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.
>
>My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which is 7.8.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. com
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
><http://www.prioriti>http://www.prioriti esonline. com
>:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
>Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
><http://www.mysilpad>http://www.mysilpad
>a.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
>sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>__________________________________________________________
>Cheap talk?
>Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
><http://voice.yahoo.com>http://voice.yahoo.com
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>




Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19987 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Injected c02?

Oh, and I also have two air stone strips in there. Thanks, Sam.

At 07:13 PM 12/1/2006, you wrote:

>I would go back to 10 - 12 hours of light. I use 12 hours myself and
>supplement with injected CO2. This strictly an unsupported guess, but
>I think with less hours of light, your plants are no longer taking in
>as many nutrients leaving more for the algae to use. Though, now that
>you have green water, perhaps extending the hours light won't help and
>may make things worse.
>
>--- In
><mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com,
>~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19988 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
I use UV Sterilizers on fresh water, and raise the PH on marine tanks. : )
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: ~~JFazio~~
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Green water


Hi Joesph:

I have two filters. Both are Tetra Whispers; one
is a 30 gallon, the other, a 60, which is not all
that quiet. Any better filters that you can
recommend? Quieter, yet powerful enough to not
need cheesecloth, which is for what, the gunk? Thanks.

Jeannie

At 01:58 AM 12/2/2006, you wrote:

>That green is an algae bloom. What type of
>filter do you have? if its one with cartridges
>you can wrap cheese cloth around it to filter it out.
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: ~~JFazio~~ <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...>
>To: <mailto:aquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Friday, December 1, 2006 5:33:26 PM
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Green water
>
>I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
>which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
>advised 8 hours per day only.
>
>I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
>(tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.
>
>My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which is 7.8.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. com
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
><http://www.prioriti>http://www.prioriti esonline. com
>:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
>Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
><http://www.mysilpad>http://www.mysilpad
>a.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
>sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>__________________________________________________________
>Cheap talk?
>Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
><http://voice.yahoo.com>http://voice.yahoo.com
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19989 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
This is interesting and whisper filters are one of the best and I think even better than many of the others. I use a whisper 40 on my 29 gallon tank and it is very quiet, in fact I hardly know it is there., It does a remarkable job in keeping the aquarium clean. You do not need to use cheese cloth on the filter, in fact this is the first I have ever heard of such a thing, but you do need to use the filter insert to catch the gunk as you call it and clean the water. There is also bio foam in them that is also necessary. A filter is only as good as the filter medium you use in them. If your not using the filter media that came with the filter or the bio sponge then your not filtering water at all. I use the bio3 filter pads in mine along with the bio sponge that came with the filter and it does a great job and it is very quiet as well.

Ivan
AquaticElf@...

----- Original Message -----
From: ~~JFazio~~
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Green water


Hi Joesph:

I have two filters. Both are Tetra Whispers; one
is a 30 gallon, the other, a 60, which is not all
that quiet. Any better filters that you can
recommend? Quieter, yet powerful enough to not
need cheesecloth, which is for what, the gunk? Thanks.

Jeannie

At 01:58 AM 12/2/2006, you wrote:

>That green is an algae bloom. What type of
>filter do you have? if its one with cartridges
>you can wrap cheese cloth around it to filter it out.
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: ~~JFazio~~ <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...>
>To: <mailto:aquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>aquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Friday, December 1, 2006 5:33:26 PM
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Green water
>
>I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
>which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
>advised 8 hours per day only.
>
>I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
>(tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.
>
>My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which is 7.8.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. com
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
><http://www.prioriti>http://www.prioriti esonline. com
>:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
>Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
><http://www.mysilpad>http://www.mysilpad
>a.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
>sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>__________________________________________________________
>Cheap talk?
>Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
><http://voice.yahoo.com>http://voice.yahoo.com
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@...
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19990 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
I've just moved the male into another tank by himself. It's a 6 gallon
Eclipse. I added some plants and used water from his tank so hopefully
that will help to reduce some of the stress. I also added a small
amount of salt.
He has been in the 46 for a long time so I hope this doesn't take a toll
on him.

I suppose I will let the female heal then add him back in with her.

Aye yai yai
Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish



Hi Leslie, Be advised, "normal" behavior for Angelfish is quite
variable, depending on the individual fish; each Angel can and will
behave slightly differently within the confines of the known innate
responses of this species to varying stimuli. This aggressiveness,
which in itself can vary as to intensity, is within the bounds of
Angelfish's behavior even though not all of them may behave as such.
Then too, it may not always be the male which displays this behavior.

First of all, are you sure she did not already lay her eggs and eat
them before you noticed this behavior in the male? If this were the
case, this action by the female would promote an aggressive behavior of
most any Angelfish male towards his partner, or any other male
substrate-spawning Cichlid.

If you are sure that she has not spawned yet, this may be a case of the
male getting impatient with the female if she is being reluctant to
spawn or just delaying spawning possibly because she may not be quite
ready yet. Since I'm assuming that you probably would have seen them
spawning earlier, although not necessarily so, I'm inclined to believe
that this scenario is most probably what is presently taking place.
With his persistant aggressiveness, this will further delay the female
from willingly partaking in the spawning sequence with him.

Your water change in this case was one of the worst things you could
have done as this is a strong stimulus for spawning, and will further
his aggression. Yes, this too will stimulate the female, but at this
time since she is being beaten up she will generally not be induced to
breed now even if she is ready. While water changes of course should
be a regular procedure of general maintenance, when breeding Angels
(and most other New World Cichlids) such water changes should be done
only after the both fish are properly conditioned, to act as a further
stimulus for them to start the spawning procedure.

Another strong stimulus (besides fresh water and higher temperature) is
lighting, which (although I could be wrong) I am betting that you have
strong direct lighting immediately on top of the aquarium (as from a
hood) which you are keeping on even through his present aggressive
behavior. If this is the case, which will only promote his unwanted
behavior, turn the aquarium lighting off and keep the pair in subdued
lighting; this will help defuse his aggressiveness.

If his behavior has been the result of her eating the eggs, as I first
mentioned as a possible cause, this subdued lighting will again help
defuse his aggressiveness which usually subsides the next day -- if
this was what started it. In any case, keeping them in dim lighting
will almost always calm him down. While nipped and torn fins are
obviously not wanted, they will grow back if given the chance -- once
he calms down. But, you don't want him to attack his partner's eyes,
as some Angelfish will do. This can easily result in clouding of the
eyes and possible infection, leading to blindness if not treated
properly. If you notice this behavior, and if all else fails, it would
be best to separate them temporarily until she heals. They can always
be put back together again when she is healed up, and better
conditioned for breeding which will make her more eager for spawning,
but watch the lighting in any case; this simple stimulus (lighting) can
make all the difference between a harmonious pair and a seemingly
impossible pairing when too strongly illuminated. Keep us advised.
Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
> behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
> Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time she
pokes
> her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them doing
> this ever before.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19991 From: Melissa Laing Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Picked up a Snail
I'd LOVE some, however I think it is too cold to ask
you to send a few my way. :p If you still want to
get rid of any come spring I just may have to send you
some shipping money. Thanks
Melissa

--- Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...> wrote:

> Ha, send me your address and I will send you tons!
>
> :)
>
> Cynthia
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Leslie & Dane
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:24 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Picked up a Snail
>
>
> I wish I had some more as well. They are great
> cleaners!!! =)
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
Have a burning question?
Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19992 From: Sam Tamura Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
I use compress CO2 in cylinders (I have several from home brewing). I
inject the CO2 using a homemade reactor because of heavy planting and
high lighting (about 4 watts/gallon).

You did not mention the source of your water for the water change. If
you are using tap, something like phosphates may have been introduced.
Tap water quality can fluctuate and fluctuates greatly in some areas.

Can you do a set of water test and post the results? You may also
want to test your water source. I've never had to fight an algae
bloom before, but I would suspect that there is something in the water
that is feeding the algae. Knowing your water parameters will help
find a solution. Something caused this algae bloom and it needs to be
identified and corrected.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> Injected c02?
>
> Oh, and I also have two air stone strips in there. Thanks, Sam.
>
> At 07:13 PM 12/1/2006, you wrote:
>
> >I would go back to 10 - 12 hours of light. I use 12 hours myself and
> >supplement with injected CO2. This strictly an unsupported guess, but
> >I think with less hours of light, your plants are no longer taking in
> >as many nutrients leaving more for the algae to use. Though, now that
> >you have green water, perhaps extending the hours light won't help and
> >may make things worse.
> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19993 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/2/2006
Subject: gravel vacs
OK. That's it. How in the heck do you guys clean your gravel? I just bought
a Battery Operated gravel vac by Aquatic gardens. First of all, the damn
thing does'nt siphon worth crap. Then, it started dying out on me.
Remember folks, I was the one who had swallowed fish water ((YUCK!!))) And
am looking for a simpler way of siphoning without using my mouth. Never again!!
I am so frustrated!! Does anyone know where I can get a really good one?? I
am at the end of my wits here.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19994 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
While any such change in environment is somewhat stressful, he will
adjust. One of the most important things now, in addressing his new
situation, is to keep up with the water changes in the 6 gallon; this
is not a lot of water for a full grown Angelfish even if he is
not "crowded." The steps you've taken (adding plants, etc.) will
help his adjustment. If necessary, in the future you could
temporarily partition the 46 with a piece of plastic "eggcrate"
material found in Home Depot, normally used for flourescent fixtures.

I don't see any reference to your lighting (for the 46) in your
reply, and would like to see your description of this as to
intensity, duration and if and when you use the direct hood lighting
of the aquarium (if you have such), especially during those times
during this breeding attempt where there was some incompatability
between the pair, when he was roughing her up. Please detail these
circumstances. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> I've just moved the male into another tank by himself. It's a 6
gallon
> Eclipse. I added some plants and used water from his tank so
hopefully
> that will help to reduce some of the stress. I also added a small
> amount of salt.
> He has been in the 46 for a long time so I hope this doesn't take a
toll
> on him.
>
> I suppose I will let the female heal then add him back in with her.
>
> Aye yai yai
> Leslie
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:15 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish
>
>
>
> Hi Leslie, Be advised, "normal" behavior for Angelfish is quite
> variable, depending on the individual fish; each Angel can and will
> behave slightly differently within the confines of the known innate
> responses of this species to varying stimuli. This aggressiveness,
> which in itself can vary as to intensity, is within the bounds of
> Angelfish's behavior even though not all of them may behave as
such.
> Then too, it may not always be the male which displays this
behavior.
>
> First of all, are you sure she did not already lay her eggs and eat
> them before you noticed this behavior in the male? If this were the
> case, this action by the female would promote an aggressive
behavior of
> most any Angelfish male towards his partner, or any other male
> substrate-spawning Cichlid.
>
> If you are sure that she has not spawned yet, this may be a case of
the
> male getting impatient with the female if she is being reluctant to
> spawn or just delaying spawning possibly because she may not be
quite
> ready yet. Since I'm assuming that you probably would have seen
them
> spawning earlier, although not necessarily so, I'm inclined to
believe
> that this scenario is most probably what is presently taking place.
> With his persistant aggressiveness, this will further delay the
female
> from willingly partaking in the spawning sequence with him.
>
> Your water change in this case was one of the worst things you
could
> have done as this is a strong stimulus for spawning, and will
further
> his aggression. Yes, this too will stimulate the female, but at
this
> time since she is being beaten up she will generally not be induced
to
> breed now even if she is ready. While water changes of course
should
> be a regular procedure of general maintenance, when breeding Angels
> (and most other New World Cichlids) such water changes should be
done
> only after the both fish are properly conditioned, to act as a
further
> stimulus for them to start the spawning procedure.
>
> Another strong stimulus (besides fresh water and higher
temperature) is
> lighting, which (although I could be wrong) I am betting that you
have
> strong direct lighting immediately on top of the aquarium (as from
a
> hood) which you are keeping on even through his present aggressive
> behavior. If this is the case, which will only promote his unwanted
> behavior, turn the aquarium lighting off and keep the pair in
subdued
> lighting; this will help defuse his aggressiveness.
>
> If his behavior has been the result of her eating the eggs, as I
first
> mentioned as a possible cause, this subdued lighting will again
help
> defuse his aggressiveness which usually subsides the next day -- if
> this was what started it. In any case, keeping them in dim lighting
> will almost always calm him down. While nipped and torn fins are
> obviously not wanted, they will grow back if given the chance --
once
> he calms down. But, you don't want him to attack his partner's
eyes,
> as some Angelfish will do. This can easily result in clouding of
the
> eyes and possible infection, leading to blindness if not treated
> properly. If you notice this behavior, and if all else fails, it
would
> be best to separate them temporarily until she heals. They can
always
> be put back together again when she is healed up, and better
> conditioned for breeding which will make her more eager for
spawning,
> but watch the lighting in any case; this simple stimulus (lighting)
can
> make all the difference between a harmonious pair and a seemingly
> impossible pairing when too strongly illuminated. Keep us advised.
> Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@>
> wrote:
> >
> > My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
> > behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
> > Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time
she
> pokes
> > her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them
doing
> > this ever before.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19995 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Ray,
The lighting is a compact fluorescent w/ 130 watts of daylight. I'm not
certain of the K.
The come one around 9:30 AM and go off approx. 8-8:30.
The hood sits directly on top of the tank.
I've never adjusted the lighting times for breeding.
~Leslie



<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 5:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish



While any such change in environment is somewhat stressful, he will
adjust. One of the most important things now, in addressing his new
situation, is to keep up with the water changes in the 6 gallon; this
is not a lot of water for a full grown Angelfish even if he is
not "crowded." The steps you've taken (adding plants, etc.) will
help his adjustment. If necessary, in the future you could
temporarily partition the 46 with a piece of plastic "eggcrate"
material found in Home Depot, normally used for flourescent fixtures.

I don't see any reference to your lighting (for the 46) in your
reply, and would like to see your description of this as to
intensity, duration and if and when you use the direct hood lighting
of the aquarium (if you have such), especially during those times
during this breeding attempt where there was some incompatability
between the pair, when he was roughing her up. Please detail these
circumstances. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> I've just moved the male into another tank by himself. It's a 6
gallon
> Eclipse. I added some plants and used water from his tank so
hopefully
> that will help to reduce some of the stress. I also added a small
> amount of salt.
> He has been in the 46 for a long time so I hope this doesn't take a
toll
> on him.
>
> I suppose I will let the female heal then add him back in with her.
>
> Aye yai yai
> Leslie
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:15 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish
>
>
>
> Hi Leslie, Be advised, "normal" behavior for Angelfish is quite
> variable, depending on the individual fish; each Angel can and will
> behave slightly differently within the confines of the known innate
> responses of this species to varying stimuli. This aggressiveness,
> which in itself can vary as to intensity, is within the bounds of
> Angelfish's behavior even though not all of them may behave as
such.
> Then too, it may not always be the male which displays this
behavior.
>
> First of all, are you sure she did not already lay her eggs and eat
> them before you noticed this behavior in the male? If this were the
> case, this action by the female would promote an aggressive
behavior of
> most any Angelfish male towards his partner, or any other male
> substrate-spawning Cichlid.
>
> If you are sure that she has not spawned yet, this may be a case of
the
> male getting impatient with the female if she is being reluctant to
> spawn or just delaying spawning possibly because she may not be
quite
> ready yet. Since I'm assuming that you probably would have seen
them
> spawning earlier, although not necessarily so, I'm inclined to
believe
> that this scenario is most probably what is presently taking place.
> With his persistant aggressiveness, this will further delay the
female
> from willingly partaking in the spawning sequence with him.
>
> Your water change in this case was one of the worst things you
could
> have done as this is a strong stimulus for spawning, and will
further
> his aggression. Yes, this too will stimulate the female, but at
this
> time since she is being beaten up she will generally not be induced
to
> breed now even if she is ready. While water changes of course
should
> be a regular procedure of general maintenance, when breeding Angels
> (and most other New World Cichlids) such water changes should be
done
> only after the both fish are properly conditioned, to act as a
further
> stimulus for them to start the spawning procedure.
>
> Another strong stimulus (besides fresh water and higher
temperature) is
> lighting, which (although I could be wrong) I am betting that you
have
> strong direct lighting immediately on top of the aquarium (as from
a
> hood) which you are keeping on even through his present aggressive
> behavior. If this is the case, which will only promote his unwanted
> behavior, turn the aquarium lighting off and keep the pair in
subdued
> lighting; this will help defuse his aggressiveness.
>
> If his behavior has been the result of her eating the eggs, as I
first
> mentioned as a possible cause, this subdued lighting will again
help
> defuse his aggressiveness which usually subsides the next day -- if
> this was what started it. In any case, keeping them in dim lighting
> will almost always calm him down. While nipped and torn fins are
> obviously not wanted, they will grow back if given the chance --
once
> he calms down. But, you don't want him to attack his partner's
eyes,
> as some Angelfish will do. This can easily result in clouding of
the
> eyes and possible infection, leading to blindness if not treated
> properly. If you notice this behavior, and if all else fails, it
would
> be best to separate them temporarily until she heals. They can
always
> be put back together again when she is healed up, and better
> conditioned for breeding which will make her more eager for
spawning,
> but watch the lighting in any case; this simple stimulus (lighting)
can
> make all the difference between a harmonious pair and a seemingly
> impossible pairing when too strongly illuminated. Keep us advised.
> Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@>
> wrote:
> >
> > My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
> > behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
> > Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time
she
> pokes
> > her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them
doing
> > this ever before.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Leslie
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19996 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Buy a Python No Spill Clean and Fill.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 1:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] gravel vacs



OK. That's it. How in the heck do you guys clean your gravel? I just bought
a Battery Operated gravel vac by Aquatic gardens. First of all, the damn
thing does'nt siphon worth crap. Then, it started dying out on me.
Remember folks, I was the one who had swallowed fish water ((YUCK!!))) And
am looking for a simpler way of siphoning without using my mouth. Never
again!!
I am so frustrated!! Does anyone know where I can get a really good one?? I
am at the end of my wits here.


Seasons Greetings
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19997 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
Leslie, I suspected something similar along these lines. Hope you
understood what I was trying to get across in my original reply. In
general, when breeding Angels, do not use strong direct lighting (as
from a hood/reflector) as the then "glaring" image of the partner "in
his face" will only add to further intimidate him if she is not
responsive. More subdued lighting will lead to a more subdued
atmosphere in the tank, with the male being more easy-going and
relaxed. It would seem that if you want to be successful with this
pair, that you are going to have to keep the aquarium light off at
those times when they are about to spawn (and possibly during
rearing, unless you're planning to pull the eggs out), having it on
only in between spawnings.

Too, unless you know that you definitely have a pair that will not
eat their eggs under most any circumstances, keep that direct
lighting off. Again, this glaring lighting will make the deposited
spawn appear more prominent, often tempting one or both parents to
eat the eggs, especially if they already are half-inclined to do so
as the brightly lit spawn will appear more as some tasty caviar
rather than their next generation. Its here that when just one of
the parents take up this behavior that this fish will now be
subjected to a severe attack from the parent wanting to protect
them. Pairs that don't eat their eggs are becoming increasingly hard
to find -- why tempt fate?

On the subject of lighting, while you need to keep the aquarium light
off for assured success, unless you know for certain your pair will
not be tempted, you should consider leaving a small night light on
for them during those dark hours. All too often the eggs will
survive the first day, only to be eaten at first light in the early
hours of the next morning as new light again begins to fill the
room. On these occassions, its almost as though one or both of the
partners forget about having the spawn the previous day and suddenly
discover breakfast! What happens is that their parental instinct is
temporarily interupted during the darkness, and those pairs in which
this instinct has already been weakened through generations of
artificial rearing are now more prone to eating the eggs (or fry)
under these circumstances.

Most serious Angel breeders do not use live plants; as for one
reason -- they cannot count on being able to have lighting directly
on the plants every day. Those Angel breeders who are able to let
their pairs raise their fry and who maintain them in more natural
settings (with plants) generally do not use strong flourescent
lighting on their tanks, but instead less bright but of longer daily
duration incandescent lighting, often with at least a partial surface
cover of floating Water Sprite or something similar which both adds
to the pair's security and further controls the light intensity.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray,
> The lighting is a compact fluorescent w/ 130 watts of daylight.
I'm not
> certain of the K.
> The come one around 9:30 AM and go off approx. 8-8:30.
> The hood sits directly on top of the tank.
> I've never adjusted the lighting times for breeding.
> ~Leslie
>
>
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 5:12 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish
>
>
>
> While any such change in environment is somewhat stressful, he will
> adjust. One of the most important things now, in addressing his new
> situation, is to keep up with the water changes in the 6 gallon;
this
> is not a lot of water for a full grown Angelfish even if he is
> not "crowded." The steps you've taken (adding plants, etc.) will
> help his adjustment. If necessary, in the future you could
> temporarily partition the 46 with a piece of plastic "eggcrate"
> material found in Home Depot, normally used for flourescent
fixtures.
>
> I don't see any reference to your lighting (for the 46) in your
> reply, and would like to see your description of this as to
> intensity, duration and if and when you use the direct hood
lighting
> of the aquarium (if you have such), especially during those times
> during this breeding attempt where there was some incompatability
> between the pair, when he was roughing her up. Please detail these
> circumstances. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I've just moved the male into another tank by himself. It's a 6
> gallon
> > Eclipse. I added some plants and used water from his tank so
> hopefully
> > that will help to reduce some of the stress. I also added a small
> > amount of salt.
> > He has been in the 46 for a long time so I hope this doesn't take
a
> toll
> > on him.
> >
> > I suppose I will let the female heal then add him back in with
her.
> >
> > Aye yai yai
> > Leslie
> > <http://groups.
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:15 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Leslie, Be advised, "normal" behavior for Angelfish is quite
> > variable, depending on the individual fish; each Angel can and
will
> > behave slightly differently within the confines of the known
innate
> > responses of this species to varying stimuli. This
aggressiveness,
> > which in itself can vary as to intensity, is within the bounds of
> > Angelfish's behavior even though not all of them may behave as
> such.
> > Then too, it may not always be the male which displays this
> behavior.
> >
> > First of all, are you sure she did not already lay her eggs and
eat
> > them before you noticed this behavior in the male? If this were
the
> > case, this action by the female would promote an aggressive
> behavior of
> > most any Angelfish male towards his partner, or any other male
> > substrate-spawning Cichlid.
> >
> > If you are sure that she has not spawned yet, this may be a case
of
> the
> > male getting impatient with the female if she is being reluctant
to
> > spawn or just delaying spawning possibly because she may not be
> quite
> > ready yet. Since I'm assuming that you probably would have seen
> them
> > spawning earlier, although not necessarily so, I'm inclined to
> believe
> > that this scenario is most probably what is presently taking
place.
> > With his persistant aggressiveness, this will further delay the
> female
> > from willingly partaking in the spawning sequence with him.
> >
> > Your water change in this case was one of the worst things you
> could
> > have done as this is a strong stimulus for spawning, and will
> further
> > his aggression. Yes, this too will stimulate the female, but at
> this
> > time since she is being beaten up she will generally not be
induced
> to
> > breed now even if she is ready. While water changes of course
> should
> > be a regular procedure of general maintenance, when breeding
Angels
> > (and most other New World Cichlids) such water changes should be
> done
> > only after the both fish are properly conditioned, to act as a
> further
> > stimulus for them to start the spawning procedure.
> >
> > Another strong stimulus (besides fresh water and higher
> temperature) is
> > lighting, which (although I could be wrong) I am betting that you
> have
> > strong direct lighting immediately on top of the aquarium (as
from
> a
> > hood) which you are keeping on even through his present
aggressive
> > behavior. If this is the case, which will only promote his
unwanted
> > behavior, turn the aquarium lighting off and keep the pair in
> subdued
> > lighting; this will help defuse his aggressiveness.
> >
> > If his behavior has been the result of her eating the eggs, as I
> first
> > mentioned as a possible cause, this subdued lighting will again
> help
> > defuse his aggressiveness which usually subsides the next day --
if
> > this was what started it. In any case, keeping them in dim
lighting
> > will almost always calm him down. While nipped and torn fins are
> > obviously not wanted, they will grow back if given the chance --
> once
> > he calms down. But, you don't want him to attack his partner's
> eyes,
> > as some Angelfish will do. This can easily result in clouding of
> the
> > eyes and possible infection, leading to blindness if not treated
> > properly. If you notice this behavior, and if all else fails, it
> would
> > be best to separate them temporarily until she heals. They can
> always
> > be put back together again when she is healed up, and better
> > conditioned for breeding which will make her more eager for
> spawning,
> > but watch the lighting in any case; this simple stimulus
(lighting)
> can
> > make all the difference between a harmonious pair and a seemingly
> > impossible pairing when too strongly illuminated. Keep us
advised.
> > Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
> > > behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
> > > Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time
> she
> > pokes
> > > her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them
> doing
> > > this ever before.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Leslie
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19998 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
I do have live plants, lots of them.

The female is quite fat w/ eggs. Will she lay them even though the male
is not in there?

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 10:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish



Leslie, I suspected something similar along these lines. Hope you
understood what I was trying to get across in my original reply. In
general, when breeding Angels, do not use strong direct lighting (as
from a hood/reflector) as the then "glaring" image of the partner "in
his face" will only add to further intimidate him if she is not
responsive. More subdued lighting will lead to a more subdued
atmosphere in the tank, with the male being more easy-going and
relaxed. It would seem that if you want to be successful with this
pair, that you are going to have to keep the aquarium light off at
those times when they are about to spawn (and possibly during
rearing, unless you're planning to pull the eggs out), having it on
only in between spawnings.

Too, unless you know that you definitely have a pair that will not
eat their eggs under most any circumstances, keep that direct
lighting off. Again, this glaring lighting will make the deposited
spawn appear more prominent, often tempting one or both parents to
eat the eggs, especially if they already are half-inclined to do so
as the brightly lit spawn will appear more as some tasty caviar
rather than their next generation. Its here that when just one of
the parents take up this behavior that this fish will now be
subjected to a severe attack from the parent wanting to protect
them. Pairs that don't eat their eggs are becoming increasingly hard
to find -- why tempt fate?

On the subject of lighting, while you need to keep the aquarium light
off for assured success, unless you know for certain your pair will
not be tempted, you should consider leaving a small night light on
for them during those dark hours. All too often the eggs will
survive the first day, only to be eaten at first light in the early
hours of the next morning as new light again begins to fill the
room. On these occassions, its almost as though one or both of the
partners forget about having the spawn the previous day and suddenly
discover breakfast! What happens is that their parental instinct is
temporarily interupted during the darkness, and those pairs in which
this instinct has already been weakened through generations of
artificial rearing are now more prone to eating the eggs (or fry)
under these circumstances.

Most serious Angel breeders do not use live plants; as for one
reason -- they cannot count on being able to have lighting directly
on the plants every day. Those Angel breeders who are able to let
their pairs raise their fry and who maintain them in more natural
settings (with plants) generally do not use strong flourescent
lighting on their tanks, but instead less bright but of longer daily
duration incandescent lighting, often with at least a partial surface
cover of floating Water Sprite or something similar which both adds
to the pair's security and further controls the light intensity.
Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray,
> The lighting is a compact fluorescent w/ 130 watts of daylight.
I'm not
> certain of the K.
> The come one around 9:30 AM and go off approx. 8-8:30.
> The hood sits directly on top of the tank.
> I've never adjusted the lighting times for breeding.
> ~Leslie
>
>
>
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 5:12 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish
>
>
>
> While any such change in environment is somewhat stressful, he will
> adjust. One of the most important things now, in addressing his new
> situation, is to keep up with the water changes in the 6 gallon;
this
> is not a lot of water for a full grown Angelfish even if he is
> not "crowded." The steps you've taken (adding plants, etc.) will
> help his adjustment. If necessary, in the future you could
> temporarily partition the 46 with a piece of plastic "eggcrate"
> material found in Home Depot, normally used for flourescent
fixtures.
>
> I don't see any reference to your lighting (for the 46) in your
> reply, and would like to see your description of this as to
> intensity, duration and if and when you use the direct hood
lighting
> of the aquarium (if you have such), especially during those times
> during this breeding attempt where there was some incompatability
> between the pair, when he was roughing her up. Please detail these
> circumstances. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I've just moved the male into another tank by himself. It's a 6
> gallon
> > Eclipse. I added some plants and used water from his tank so
> hopefully
> > that will help to reduce some of the stress. I also added a small
> > amount of salt.
> > He has been in the 46 for a long time so I hope this doesn't take
a
> toll
> > on him.
> >
> > I suppose I will let the female heal then add him back in with
her.
> >
> > Aye yai yai
> > Leslie
> > <http://groups.
> <http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:15 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Leslie, Be advised, "normal" behavior for Angelfish is quite
> > variable, depending on the individual fish; each Angel can and
will
> > behave slightly differently within the confines of the known
innate
> > responses of this species to varying stimuli. This
aggressiveness,
> > which in itself can vary as to intensity, is within the bounds of
> > Angelfish's behavior even though not all of them may behave as
> such.
> > Then too, it may not always be the male which displays this
> behavior.
> >
> > First of all, are you sure she did not already lay her eggs and
eat
> > them before you noticed this behavior in the male? If this were
the
> > case, this action by the female would promote an aggressive
> behavior of
> > most any Angelfish male towards his partner, or any other male
> > substrate-spawning Cichlid.
> >
> > If you are sure that she has not spawned yet, this may be a case
of
> the
> > male getting impatient with the female if she is being reluctant
to
> > spawn or just delaying spawning possibly because she may not be
> quite
> > ready yet. Since I'm assuming that you probably would have seen
> them
> > spawning earlier, although not necessarily so, I'm inclined to
> believe
> > that this scenario is most probably what is presently taking
place.
> > With his persistant aggressiveness, this will further delay the
> female
> > from willingly partaking in the spawning sequence with him.
> >
> > Your water change in this case was one of the worst things you
> could
> > have done as this is a strong stimulus for spawning, and will
> further
> > his aggression. Yes, this too will stimulate the female, but at
> this
> > time since she is being beaten up she will generally not be
induced
> to
> > breed now even if she is ready. While water changes of course
> should
> > be a regular procedure of general maintenance, when breeding
Angels
> > (and most other New World Cichlids) such water changes should be
> done
> > only after the both fish are properly conditioned, to act as a
> further
> > stimulus for them to start the spawning procedure.
> >
> > Another strong stimulus (besides fresh water and higher
> temperature) is
> > lighting, which (although I could be wrong) I am betting that you
> have
> > strong direct lighting immediately on top of the aquarium (as
from
> a
> > hood) which you are keeping on even through his present
aggressive
> > behavior. If this is the case, which will only promote his
unwanted
> > behavior, turn the aquarium lighting off and keep the pair in
> subdued
> > lighting; this will help defuse his aggressiveness.
> >
> > If his behavior has been the result of her eating the eggs, as I
> first
> > mentioned as a possible cause, this subdued lighting will again
> help
> > defuse his aggressiveness which usually subsides the next day --
if
> > this was what started it. In any case, keeping them in dim
lighting
> > will almost always calm him down. While nipped and torn fins are
> > obviously not wanted, they will grow back if given the chance --
> once
> > he calms down. But, you don't want him to attack his partner's
> eyes,
> > as some Angelfish will do. This can easily result in clouding of
> the
> > eyes and possible infection, leading to blindness if not treated
> > properly. If you notice this behavior, and if all else fails, it
> would
> > be best to separate them temporarily until she heals. They can
> always
> > be put back together again when she is healed up, and better
> > conditioned for breeding which will make her more eager for
> spawning,
> > but watch the lighting in any case; this simple stimulus
(lighting)
> can
> > make all the difference between a harmonious pair and a seemingly
> > impossible pairing when too strongly illuminated. Keep us
advised.
> > Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat normal
> > > behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
> > > Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every time
> she
> > pokes
> > > her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall them
> doing
> > > this ever before.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Leslie
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 19999 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: MEAN angelfish
The live plants could be a problem, although if you use a partition
as I mentioned, you can work around that and have the lights on for
the plants with having them separated during more turbulent periods.
No, generally she will not lay eggs by herself; I would not expect
her to. If she was that heavy with eggs when he was with her, it
appears that in his biligerence (due to his being highly stimulated
visually by excessive lighting), he did not give her a chance to
cooperate. Keep that in mind the next time you put them together,
with having more subdued light. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> I do have live plants, lots of them.
>
> The female is quite fat w/ eggs. Will she lay them even though the
male
> is not in there?
>
> Leslie
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 10:13 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish
>
>
>
> Leslie, I suspected something similar along these lines. Hope you
> understood what I was trying to get across in my original reply. In
> general, when breeding Angels, do not use strong direct lighting
(as
> from a hood/reflector) as the then "glaring" image of the
partner "in
> his face" will only add to further intimidate him if she is not
> responsive. More subdued lighting will lead to a more subdued
> atmosphere in the tank, with the male being more easy-going and
> relaxed. It would seem that if you want to be successful with this
> pair, that you are going to have to keep the aquarium light off at
> those times when they are about to spawn (and possibly during
> rearing, unless you're planning to pull the eggs out), having it on
> only in between spawnings.
>
> Too, unless you know that you definitely have a pair that will not
> eat their eggs under most any circumstances, keep that direct
> lighting off. Again, this glaring lighting will make the deposited
> spawn appear more prominent, often tempting one or both parents to
> eat the eggs, especially if they already are half-inclined to do so
> as the brightly lit spawn will appear more as some tasty caviar
> rather than their next generation. Its here that when just one of
> the parents take up this behavior that this fish will now be
> subjected to a severe attack from the parent wanting to protect
> them. Pairs that don't eat their eggs are becoming increasingly
hard
> to find -- why tempt fate?
>
> On the subject of lighting, while you need to keep the aquarium
light
> off for assured success, unless you know for certain your pair will
> not be tempted, you should consider leaving a small night light on
> for them during those dark hours. All too often the eggs will
> survive the first day, only to be eaten at first light in the early
> hours of the next morning as new light again begins to fill the
> room. On these occassions, its almost as though one or both of the
> partners forget about having the spawn the previous day and
suddenly
> discover breakfast! What happens is that their parental instinct is
> temporarily interupted during the darkness, and those pairs in
which
> this instinct has already been weakened through generations of
> artificial rearing are now more prone to eating the eggs (or fry)
> under these circumstances.
>
> Most serious Angel breeders do not use live plants; as for one
> reason -- they cannot count on being able to have lighting directly
> on the plants every day. Those Angel breeders who are able to let
> their pairs raise their fry and who maintain them in more natural
> settings (with plants) generally do not use strong flourescent
> lighting on their tanks, but instead less bright but of longer
daily
> duration incandescent lighting, often with at least a partial
surface
> cover of floating Water Sprite or something similar which both adds
> to the pair's security and further controls the light intensity.
> Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Ray,
> > The lighting is a compact fluorescent w/ 130 watts of daylight.
> I'm not
> > certain of the K.
> > The come one around 9:30 AM and go off approx. 8-8:30.
> > The hood sits directly on top of the tank.
> > I've never adjusted the lighting times for breeding.
> > ~Leslie
> >
> >
> >
> > <http://groups.
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 5:12 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish
> >
> >
> >
> > While any such change in environment is somewhat stressful, he
will
> > adjust. One of the most important things now, in addressing his
new
> > situation, is to keep up with the water changes in the 6 gallon;
> this
> > is not a lot of water for a full grown Angelfish even if he is
> > not "crowded." The steps you've taken (adding plants, etc.) will
> > help his adjustment. If necessary, in the future you could
> > temporarily partition the 46 with a piece of plastic "eggcrate"
> > material found in Home Depot, normally used for flourescent
> fixtures.
> >
> > I don't see any reference to your lighting (for the 46) in your
> > reply, and would like to see your description of this as to
> > intensity, duration and if and when you use the direct hood
> lighting
> > of the aquarium (if you have such), especially during those times
> > during this breeding attempt where there was some incompatability
> > between the pair, when he was roughing her up. Please detail
these
> > circumstances. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I've just moved the male into another tank by himself. It's a 6
> > gallon
> > > Eclipse. I added some plants and used water from his tank so
> > hopefully
> > > that will help to reduce some of the stress. I also added a
small
> > > amount of salt.
> > > He has been in the 46 for a long time so I hope this doesn't
take
> a
> > toll
> > > on him.
> > >
> > > I suppose I will let the female heal then add him back in with
> her.
> > >
> > > Aye yai yai
> > > Leslie
> > > <http://groups.
> > <http://groups.
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> > yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:15 AM
> > > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: MEAN angelfish
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Leslie, Be advised, "normal" behavior for Angelfish is quite
> > > variable, depending on the individual fish; each Angel can and
> will
> > > behave slightly differently within the confines of the known
> innate
> > > responses of this species to varying stimuli. This
> aggressiveness,
> > > which in itself can vary as to intensity, is within the bounds
of
> > > Angelfish's behavior even though not all of them may behave as
> > such.
> > > Then too, it may not always be the male which displays this
> > behavior.
> > >
> > > First of all, are you sure she did not already lay her eggs and
> eat
> > > them before you noticed this behavior in the male? If this were
> the
> > > case, this action by the female would promote an aggressive
> > behavior of
> > > most any Angelfish male towards his partner, or any other male
> > > substrate-spawning Cichlid.
> > >
> > > If you are sure that she has not spawned yet, this may be a
case
> of
> > the
> > > male getting impatient with the female if she is being
reluctant
> to
> > > spawn or just delaying spawning possibly because she may not be
> > quite
> > > ready yet. Since I'm assuming that you probably would have seen
> > them
> > > spawning earlier, although not necessarily so, I'm inclined to
> > believe
> > > that this scenario is most probably what is presently taking
> place.
> > > With his persistant aggressiveness, this will further delay the
> > female
> > > from willingly partaking in the spawning sequence with him.
> > >
> > > Your water change in this case was one of the worst things you
> > could
> > > have done as this is a strong stimulus for spawning, and will
> > further
> > > his aggression. Yes, this too will stimulate the female, but at
> > this
> > > time since she is being beaten up she will generally not be
> induced
> > to
> > > breed now even if she is ready. While water changes of course
> > should
> > > be a regular procedure of general maintenance, when breeding
> Angels
> > > (and most other New World Cichlids) such water changes should
be
> > done
> > > only after the both fish are properly conditioned, to act as a
> > further
> > > stimulus for them to start the spawning procedure.
> > >
> > > Another strong stimulus (besides fresh water and higher
> > temperature) is
> > > lighting, which (although I could be wrong) I am betting that
you
> > have
> > > strong direct lighting immediately on top of the aquarium (as
> from
> > a
> > > hood) which you are keeping on even through his present
> aggressive
> > > behavior. If this is the case, which will only promote his
> unwanted
> > > behavior, turn the aquarium lighting off and keep the pair in
> > subdued
> > > lighting; this will help defuse his aggressiveness.
> > >
> > > If his behavior has been the result of her eating the eggs, as
I
> > first
> > > mentioned as a possible cause, this subdued lighting will again
> > help
> > > defuse his aggressiveness which usually subsides the next day --

> if
> > > this was what started it. In any case, keeping them in dim
> lighting
> > > will almost always calm him down. While nipped and torn fins
are
> > > obviously not wanted, they will grow back if given the chance --

> > once
> > > he calms down. But, you don't want him to attack his partner's
> > eyes,
> > > as some Angelfish will do. This can easily result in clouding
of
> > the
> > > eyes and possible infection, leading to blindness if not
treated
> > > properly. If you notice this behavior, and if all else fails,
it
> > would
> > > be best to separate them temporarily until she heals. They can
> > always
> > > be put back together again when she is healed up, and better
> > > conditioned for breeding which will make her more eager for
> > spawning,
> > > but watch the lighting in any case; this simple stimulus
> (lighting)
> > can
> > > make all the difference between a harmonious pair and a
seemingly
> > > impossible pairing when too strongly illuminated. Keep us
> advised.
> > > Ray
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > My male angel is tearing up my female. Is this a somewhat
normal
> > > > behavior when she is about to lay eggs?
> > > > Her fins are badly nipped and he is very aggressive every
time
> > she
> > > pokes
> > > > her poor head out of the rocks and plants. I don't recall
them
> > doing
> > > > this ever before.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Leslie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20000 From: Karen Millett Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
My mom swallowed fish water once, doing that, made her sick. I got a gravel vac that is supposed to spyhon by moving it up and down rapidly in the tank but I I find that scares the fish to much plus I'm afraid that they would bang into it and hurt themselves. So I just put it in the gravel and work it all around to get the crud to come to the surface, if there is too much coming up, like the water gets inpossible to see, I take the fish out. then I use aquaplus particulate to clear it up. I use the net to scoop it all up and filter cotten to get the rest. I have a really big bowl with tank water in for the fish and an air stone if they are going to be out too long then I clean the filter and change media if necessary and water change, then stress coat and waste remover. I hope this helps. Works for me. Karen.
>
> From: Morganawolf1@...
> Date: 2006/12/03 Sun AM 01:33:35 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] gravel vacs
>
> OK. That's it. How in the heck do you guys clean your gravel? I just bought
> a Battery Operated gravel vac by Aquatic gardens. First of all, the damn
> thing does'nt siphon worth crap. Then, it started dying out on me.
> Remember folks, I was the one who had swallowed fish water ((YUCK!!))) And
> am looking for a simpler way of siphoning without using my mouth. Never again!!
> I am so frustrated!! Does anyone know where I can get a really good one?? I
> am at the end of my wits here.
>
>
>
> Seasons Greetings
> Karen
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20001 From: hank voss Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Morganawolf1@... wrote:
>
> OK. That's it. How in the heck do you guys clean your gravel? I
just bought
> a Battery Operated gravel vac by Aquatic gardens. First of all,
the damn
> thing does'nt siphon worth crap.
=====================
Karen:
The battery operated cleaners are useless except maybe for a
goldfish bowl.The siphon gravel cleaners work very well. If you do
not want to use your mouth to start the suction simply put the whole
unit under water till the air is out of the unit and then while ithe
tubing is still under water place your finger on the exit side of
the hose and place it in the bucket,take your finger off and you
will start to siphon (no water in the mouth)even though over the
past 65 yrs. ive gotton many mouthfulls and im still kicking.Or you
can go the phyton method.Takr your pick.
Regards Hank
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20002 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
Karen you don't have to use your mouth. What you do is put the vaccum end in the water fill the head of the vaccum up with water a bring the end that you put into the gravel up out of the water let it slowly empty but not to much and get more water in it and it will start the siphon its self. It is hard to explain let start at the begining so you get the vaccum ready to do the cleaning have the end where the water is going to go bye bye where it needs to be make sure it is lower then the tank put the vaccum end into the tank let it fill up and now make like a U with the hose bring the end of the vaccum out of the water just enough so you can see the water start draining put back in the tank you should have a siphon.

Morganawolf1@... wrote: OK. That's it. How in the heck do you guys clean your gravel? I just bought
a Battery Operated gravel vac by Aquatic gardens. First of all, the damn
thing does'nt siphon worth crap. Then, it started dying out on me.
Remember folks, I was the one who had swallowed fish water ((YUCK!!))) And
am looking for a simpler way of siphoning without using my mouth. Never again!!
I am so frustrated!! Does anyone know where I can get a really good one?? I
am at the end of my wits here.


Seasons Greetings
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20003 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: swim bladder issues with von rio tetra
I know this is a late subject but, my GhostKnife fish has had swim bladder
agin the last two days. I just did another water change and it has helped
again. Doing a frequent water change every few days helps immensly. He is his old
self again. That's all I did. Its hard to tell why they get it but, water
changes has a lot to do with them getting better.
Hope this helps.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20004 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Yeah the cheeese cloth is to filter out the extra fine green stuff in the water. Otherwise it just goes throught the cartridges. As for filters I was always fond of the canister filters.


----- Original Message ----
From: ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 2, 2006 9:20:41 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Green water

Hi Joesph:

I have two filters. Both are Tetra Whispers; one
is a 30 gallon, the other, a 60, which is not all
that quiet. Any better filters that you can
recommend? Quieter, yet powerful enough to not
need cheesecloth, which is for what, the gunk? Thanks.

Jeannie

At 01:58 AM 12/2/2006, you wrote:

>That green is an algae bloom. What type of
>filter do you have? if its one with cartridges
>you can wrap cheese cloth around it to filter it out.
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: ~~JFazio~~ <<mailto:jfazio% 40goldendox. com>jfazio@goldendox. com>
>To: <mailto:aquaticLife %40yahoogroups. com>aquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
>Sent: Friday, December 1, 2006 5:33:26 PM
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Green water
>
>I just did my weekly water change (25%) and shut out the lights,
>which have been typically on for 10-12 hours a day till my friend
>advised 8 hours per day only.
>
>I do have plants in this 55 gallon with 10 healthy-looking fish
>(tetras and corys) and a strong plant light bought at fosters and smith.
>
>My water tests in the normal ranges for everything except ph, which is 7.8.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. com
>Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
><http://www.prioriti>http://www.prioriti esonline. com
>:: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
>
>Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
><http://www.mysilpad>http://www.mysilpad
>a.com/jfazio to preview the NEW 2006-2007 fine
>sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>___________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
>Cheap talk?
>Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
><http://voice. yahoo.com>http://voice. yahoo.com
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. com
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ::
http://www.prioriti esonline. com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333

Silpada Designs Independent Representative -
Visit http://www.mysilpad a.com/jfazio to preview
the NEW 2006-2007 fine sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20005 From: wcnida Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
If you go to a small fish shop they will show you haw to start the
vacuum. It is very easy and you do not have to suck on it. You
simply hold it under water to remove the air then hold your fingr on
the end of the tube, rmove you finger until water beins to flow stop
the flow with your finger and place the vacuum back in the water to
remove the air and it will work.

Wally

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Morganawolf1@... wrote:
>
> OK. That's it. How in the heck do you guys clean your gravel? I
just bought
> a Battery Operated gravel vac by Aquatic gardens. First of all,
the damn
> thing does'nt siphon worth crap. Then, it started dying out on me.
> Remember folks, I was the one who had swallowed fish water
((YUCK!!))) And
> am looking for a simpler way of siphoning without using my mouth.
Never again!!
> I am so frustrated!! Does anyone know where I can get a really
good one?? I
> am at the end of my wits here.
>
>
>
> Seasons Greetings
> Karen
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20006 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/3/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
The python is the best in my experience. You hook it up to your faucet.


----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 3, 2006 1:33:35 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] gravel vacs

OK. That's it. How in the heck do you guys clean your gravel? I just bought
a Battery Operated gravel vac by Aquatic gardens. First of all, the damn
thing does'nt siphon worth crap. Then, it started dying out on me.
Remember folks, I was the one who had swallowed fish water ((YUCK!!))) And
am looking for a simpler way of siphoning without using my mouth. Never again!!
I am so frustrated!! Does anyone know where I can get a really good one?? I
am at the end of my wits here.


Seasons Greetings
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20007 From: duretteg Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Tiger Oscar Problem
This week-end someone gave me a 5" Tiger Oscar and a 12" Pleco. He
wasn't taking care of them and had them in an unheated, dirty tank.
The Pleco is doing great, but I'm having problems with the T. Oscar.
The owner said that it's been acting this way for weeks. The problem
is it swims with its head down and caudal up. And seems to favor one
side. When prompted it can swim normally and quickly. It's eating and
seems ok other than these problems. Swim bladder problems? Any ideas?
Glenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20008 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Oscar Problem/Glenn
In a message dated 12/4/2006 8:03:58 A.M. Central Standard Time,
duretteg@... writes:

I'm having problems with the T. Oscar.



*******************************************************************
Glenn, oscarfish.com is a great forum for info on oscars. FYI.
Hope it helps you,
Deanna Cronan
Covington, GA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20009 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
Any particular type? Thanks. Jeannie

At 01:30 AM 12/4/2006, you wrote:

>Yeah the cheeese cloth is to filter out the extra fine green stuff
>in the water. Otherwise it just goes throught the cartridges. As for
>filters I was always fond of the canister filters.
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: ~~JFazio~~ <<mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com>jfazio@...>
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Saturday, December 2, 2006 9:20:41 AM
>Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Green water
>
>Hi Joesph:
>
>I have two filters. Both are Tetra Whispers; one
>is a 30 gallon, the other, a 60, which is not all
>that quiet. Any better filters that you can
>recommend? Quieter, yet powerful enough to not
>need cheesecloth, which is for what, the gunk? Thanks.
>
>Jeannie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20010 From: Jackie Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Oscar Problem
I have two oscars and from past experience I noticed that one of mine
would act like that and it was because it didn't feel good. With mine,
I would check the tank for problems and fix it and it would get better
when the conditions were improved. One time it was because the pump
was blocked and not working right. So I would say yours just doesn't
feel good and now that it's in a better condition tank it will
eventually start acting better. As far as medicating it, experts would
know more about that part. But I would say give it a week to see what
improvements it makes on it's own before doing medications and then go
from there.
Jackie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "duretteg" <duretteg@...> wrote:
>
> This week-end someone gave me a 5" Tiger Oscar and a 12" Pleco. He
> wasn't taking care of them and had them in an unheated, dirty tank.
> The Pleco is doing great, but I'm having problems with the T. Oscar.
> The owner said that it's been acting this way for weeks. The problem
> is it swims with its head down and caudal up. And seems to favor one
> side. When prompted it can swim normally and quickly. It's eating
and
> seems ok other than these problems. Swim bladder problems? Any
ideas?
> Glenn
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20011 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Oscar Problem
Glenn, Please know that this condition may be due to a number of
factors, not all of which are cureable. These include viral (non-
cureable), sporazoan, bacterial and impacted waste, as well as
hereditary. As this has just recently become a problem within the last
few weeks (in less than ideal conditions), I would rule out the last
cause.

Your description fortunately does tell a lot, as this indicates that
the latter part of the swim bladder is affected, caused generally by a
bacterial infection. I presume you already have the fish in clean
water, but would first recommend a partial change unless you're already
on top of this.

I am also presuming that you now have the fish in a heated tank, but
you need to increase the temperature to 5 o C (9 o F) over what it was
being kept at in the unheated tank, or if you're not sure, at least to
80 o F. Add 4 tsp of salt per gallon over the period of 2 days, and do
not feed for a few (3) days. After this time, try feeding green peas
to the fish and do not feed any foods at this time which will soak up
water (Cichlid pellets, etc.).

In the meantime, after raising the temperature, treat with either
naladixic acid (Nalagram -- by Aquarium Pharaceuticals or Triple
Sulfa. Both are effective against such bacteria (Nalagram is one of
the few antibiotics which are readily absorbed internally by fish). No
guarantees here as we still don't know the exact cause, only what's
very likely going by the symptoms, and is certainly worth a try on this
otherwise difficult to correct malady. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "duretteg" <duretteg@...> wrote:
>
> This week-end someone gave me a 5" Tiger Oscar and a 12" Pleco. He
> wasn't taking care of them and had them in an unheated, dirty tank.
> The Pleco is doing great, but I'm having problems with the T. Oscar.
> The owner said that it's been acting this way for weeks. The problem
> is it swims with its head down and caudal up. And seems to favor one
> side. When prompted it can swim normally and quickly. It's eating
and
> seems ok other than these problems. Swim bladder problems? Any
ideas?
> Glenn
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20012 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Oscar Problem
sounds like swim bladder to me. If it is, just getting into a clean tank
will help. You might wanna try treating the water with antibiotics.(capsules)



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20013 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Green water
I had the fluval and it worked great for me. I also got it one size bigger than was necessary.


----- Original Message ----
From: ~~JFazio~~ <jfazio@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 4, 2006 10:40:11 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Green water

Any particular type? Thanks. Jeannie

At 01:30 AM 12/4/2006, you wrote:

>Yeah the cheeese cloth is to filter out the extra fine green stuff
>in the water. Otherwise it just goes throught the cartridges. As for
>filters I was always fond of the canister filters.
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: ~~JFazio~~ <<mailto:jfazio% 40goldendox. com>jfazio@goldendox. com>
>To: <mailto:AquaticLife %40yahoogroups. com>AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
>Sent: Saturday, December 2, 2006 9:20:41 AM
>Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Green water
>
>Hi Joesph:
>
>I have two filters. Both are Tetra Whispers; one
>is a 30 gallon, the other, a 60, which is not all
>that quiet. Any better filters that you can
>recommend? Quieter, yet powerful enough to not
>need cheesecloth, which is for what, the gunk? Thanks.
>
>Jeannie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20014 From: hank voss Date: 12/4/2006
Subject: Re: Tiger Oscar Problem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "duretteg" <duretteg@...> wrote:
>

> The owner said that it's been acting this way for weeks. The
problem
> is it swims with its head down and caudal up. And seems to favor one
> side. When prompted it can swim normally and quickly. It's eating
and
> seems ok other than these problems. Swim bladder problems? Any
ideas?
> Glenn
> =======================
Check the oscars eyes to see if one eye is cloudy.A lot of times when
fish loose the sight in one eye they will tilt to one side.Cloudy lens
in oscars is quite common.
Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20015 From: Andreas Date: 12/5/2006
Subject: fish upside down anything I can do?
Hello all

wellt he guy at the LFS thought he'd do me a big favor and rather than give
me the usual 100 feeder minows he muist have given me 300. I did not notice
until I put them in the tank. Itappears that the fish caused an amonia
spike. The next day I had a few deaths. On of my fish is a boulengerella
maculata AKA a south american gar.

Whatever happenend seems to have injured his swim bladder, he has been
hanging upside down for a day now. The thing is he was very strong and
healthy so he hasn't died from the stress. Now he is spending the 2nd day
upside down. Is there anything I can do to help?

Oh the other thing I did was ad ADA K and ADA mid green

ANdreas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20016 From: ronno971 Date: 12/5/2006
Subject: Re: New member
Right now I have 155 gallon bow front with a Filstar xp3, three
large amazon swords, a few large pieces of Malaysian driftwood, four
small to med discus, 6 cardinal tetras and 6 rummynose. There are a
few algea eaters and catfish thrown in too.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rodrigo Jr. Marquez"
<la_rmarquezjr@...> wrote:
>
> Hello! What plants do you have with your discus and what's your
set-up?
>
> Rod
>
> ronno971 <ronno971@...> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am not new to auariums but am am new to "groups" and my 155
gallon
> planted Discus tankis also new. I have done salt and community
fresh
> in the past.
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20017 From: Mel Bowman Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my tank
Hi everyone,
I'm thinking of diving into the world of planted aquariums. I bought a small java ferm and am currently quarantining FAR away from my tank. I found no snails but several snail eggs. I cleaned them off and rinced the plant really well...but I'm sure I didn't get all of them. I was wondering a few things.

1. How do YOU clean your plants?

2. How long is the life cycle of a snail? In other words, how long do I have to keep this plant in quarantine to make sure I got all the snail eggs?

I've heard about using alum and potassium permananate...also heard of using beach, though I doubt I'll do that. I just really, really dont want snails in my tank. I can get alum and PP really easily.

Oh, one more question (actually two). In Petsmart they had these really look looking fish that looked like a gourami, except with a leopard pattern (yellow with dark brown-black spots). They called it a leaf fish, but I haven't found any on line by the name of leaf fish that looked anything like it. They were listed as tropical semi-aggressive, and I was just wondering if anyone knows what they are and had any experience with them?

So far my gold gourami has been an excellent citizen in my tank. He's still pretty shy around me but he doesn't bother anyone in my tank. My husband would like one more gourami but I'm not sure I should tempt fate on that one. Even when I added the von rio tetras (there are 4 now) he never pestered them. I also have 6 platys, an angelicus loach, and a rubber nose pleco in my tank, and so far everyone is pretty happy. I figure I have room for either one more larger fish (like a gourami), or three platys, or a small school of some sort of tetras or rasboras. I do have very hard, alkaline water. My von rios are pretty but they're not as active as I was hoping for in small schooling fish. My nitrate reading is safe, but I can never seem to get it to read zero (we have some in our tap from all the local farms), so that's part of the reason why I'm trying to add some plants, as I heard they were an excellent addition to help make my water the best that it can be.

It's a 38g tank with high filtration and aeration. I would say medium-slightly high current.

Any suggestions?

Mel

P.S.
I finally felt so bad for my swim bladder tetra that I euthanized him. The remaining 4 are doing really well...so far. I think my water might just be to alkaline and hard for them.


---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20018 From: joe mihalich Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
THE LEAF FISH (IF THAT IS WHAT IT IS) IS FROM SOUTH AMERICAN RIVERS.
THEY LOOK LIKE FLOATING DEAD LEAVES SO THAT THEY CAN SURPRISE THEIR
FOOD (OTHER SMALLER FISH). THEY ARE RELATED TO ANOTHER TYPE OF RIVER
FISH FROM AFRICA CALLED THE LEOPARD CTENAPOMA OR SPOTTED PERCH. YES,
THEY ARE ALL FROM THE PERCH FAMILY. THEY ALL HAVE VERY LARGE EYES TO
SEE THEIR PREY. YOU MIGHT TRY LOOKING UP THE NAMES I HAVE GIVEN YOU
BECAUSE IT MIGHT BE THE SAME FISH. THEY LOVE TO FEED ON SMALL FEEDER
GUPPIES AND WILL ALSO TAKE TO BEEFHEART. THEY WILL EAT SMALLER FISH
BY STALKING THEM. I HAVE HAD A FEW OF THE SPOTTED PERCH AND KEPT THEM
FROM THE TIME THEY WERE TWO AND A HALF INCHES TO 6 INCHES, A COUPKE
OF YEARS.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Mel Bowman <swismiself@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
> I'm thinking of diving into the world of planted aquariums. I
bought a small java ferm and am currently quarantining FAR away from
my tank. I found no snails but several snail eggs. I cleaned them off
and rinced the plant really well...but I'm sure I didn't get all of
them. I was wondering a few things.
>
> 1. How do YOU clean your plants?
>
> 2. How long is the life cycle of a snail? In other words, how
long do I have to keep this plant in quarantine to make sure I got
all the snail eggs?
>
> I've heard about using alum and potassium permananate...also
heard of using beach, though I doubt I'll do that. I just really,
really dont want snails in my tank. I can get alum and PP really
easily.
>
> Oh, one more question (actually two). In Petsmart they had these
really look looking fish that looked like a gourami, except with a
leopard pattern (yellow with dark brown-black spots). They called it
a leaf fish, but I haven't found any on line by the name of leaf fish
that looked anything like it. They were listed as tropical semi-
aggressive, and I was just wondering if anyone knows what they are
and had any experience with them?
>
> So far my gold gourami has been an excellent citizen in my tank.
He's still pretty shy around me but he doesn't bother anyone in my
tank. My husband would like one more gourami but I'm not sure I
should tempt fate on that one. Even when I added the von rio tetras
(there are 4 now) he never pestered them. I also have 6 platys, an
angelicus loach, and a rubber nose pleco in my tank, and so far
everyone is pretty happy. I figure I have room for either one more
larger fish (like a gourami), or three platys, or a small school of
some sort of tetras or rasboras. I do have very hard, alkaline water.
My von rios are pretty but they're not as active as I was hoping for
in small schooling fish. My nitrate reading is safe, but I can never
seem to get it to read zero (we have some in our tap from all the
local farms), so that's part of the reason why I'm trying to add some
plants, as I heard they were an excellent addition to help make my
water the best that it can be.
>
> It's a 38g tank with high filtration and aeration. I would say
medium-slightly high current.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Mel
>
> P.S.
> I finally felt so bad for my swim bladder tetra that I euthanized
him. The remaining 4 are doing really well...so far. I think my water
might just be to alkaline and hard for them.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20019 From: joe mihalich Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
YOU COULD ALWAYS TRY TO ADD A SMALL AMOUNT OF FISH FOOD , WHICH WILL
ATTRACT ANY SNAILS YOU MIGHT STILL HAVE. PUT THE FOOD IN SOMETHING
THAT WILL FLOAT, SO THAT IT WILL BE EASIER TO TAKE ANY SNAILS OUT.
LEAVE IT IN FOR A FEW DAYS AND WAIT. IF THEIR ARE ANY SNAILS THEY
WILL MAKE THEIR WAY TO THE FOOD.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Mel Bowman <swismiself@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
> I'm thinking of diving into the world of planted aquariums. I
bought a small java ferm and am currently quarantining FAR away from
my tank. I found no snails but several snail eggs. I cleaned them off
and rinced the plant really well...but I'm sure I didn't get all of
them. I was wondering a few things.
>
> 1. How do YOU clean your plants?
>
> 2. How long is the life cycle of a snail? In other words, how
long do I have to keep this plant in quarantine to make sure I got
all the snail eggs?
>
> I've heard about using alum and potassium permananate...also
heard of using beach, though I doubt I'll do that. I just really,
really dont want snails in my tank. I can get alum and PP really
easily.
>
> Oh, one more question (actually two). In Petsmart they had these
really look looking fish that looked like a gourami, except with a
leopard pattern (yellow with dark brown-black spots). They called it
a leaf fish, but I haven't found any on line by the name of leaf fish
that looked anything like it. They were listed as tropical semi-
aggressive, and I was just wondering if anyone knows what they are
and had any experience with them?
>
> So far my gold gourami has been an excellent citizen in my tank.
He's still pretty shy around me but he doesn't bother anyone in my
tank. My husband would like one more gourami but I'm not sure I
should tempt fate on that one. Even when I added the von rio tetras
(there are 4 now) he never pestered them. I also have 6 platys, an
angelicus loach, and a rubber nose pleco in my tank, and so far
everyone is pretty happy. I figure I have room for either one more
larger fish (like a gourami), or three platys, or a small school of
some sort of tetras or rasboras. I do have very hard, alkaline water.
My von rios are pretty but they're not as active as I was hoping for
in small schooling fish. My nitrate reading is safe, but I can never
seem to get it to read zero (we have some in our tap from all the
local farms), so that's part of the reason why I'm trying to add some
plants, as I heard they were an excellent addition to help make my
water the best that it can be.
>
> It's a 38g tank with high filtration and aeration. I would say
medium-slightly high current.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Mel
>
> P.S.
> I finally felt so bad for my swim bladder tetra that I euthanized
him. The remaining 4 are doing really well...so far. I think my water
might just be to alkaline and hard for them.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20020 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
1. I use alum, when I do it, simply because it is already hanging around, not that it offers a significant advantage to potassium permanganate.

2. Are you asking about the life span of a snail? Depends on the snail, the water temperature and conditions, the kind of fish kept with it, etc. IF you are asking how long it takes eggs to hatch, the same applies, but they should be hatching within a few days of coming into your care, certainly no more than a week--depends on when they were laid.

Snails are not to be considered anathema to the experience. You've already given the plants a bath and inspected them more than once, that should be sufficient. Though less common, there are other routes for snails to make their way to your aquarium, other than via plants or direct introduction. Small snails may be included with the fish you bring home, or an egg or two. Pouring the water through a net into a container, then moving the fish to a tank with the net may help prevent this, but, again, not fool proof. The snail or egg may not go through the net.

If you do get a snail or two into your tank, deal with it then, don't go overboard trying to get rid of all snails from all sources..


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mel Bowman
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my tank

Hi everyone,
I'm thinking of diving into the world of planted aquariums. I bought a small java ferm and am currently quarantining FAR away from my tank. I found no snails but several snail eggs. I cleaned them off and rinced the plant really well...but I'm sure I didn't get all of them. I was wondering a few things.

1. How do YOU clean your plants?

2. How long is the life cycle of a snail? In other words, how long do I have to keep this plant in quarantine to make sure I got all the snail eggs?

I've heard about using alum and potassium permananate...also heard of using beach, though I doubt I'll do that. I just really, really dont want snails in my tank. I can get alum and PP really easily.

Oh, one more question (actually two). In Petsmart they had these really look looking fish that looked like a gourami, except with a leopard pattern (yellow with dark brown-black spots). They called it a leaf fish, but I haven't found any on line by the name of leaf fish that looked anything like it. They were listed as tropical semi-aggressive, and I was just wondering if anyone knows what they are and had any experience with them?

So far my gold gourami has been an excellent citizen in my tank. He's still pretty shy around me but he doesn't bother anyone in my tank. My husband would like one more gourami but I'm not sure I should tempt fate on that one. Even when I added the von rio tetras (there are 4 now) he never pestered them. I also have 6 platys, an angelicus loach, and a rubber nose pleco in my tank, and so far everyone is pretty happy. I figure I have room for either one more larger fish (like a gourami), or three platys, or a small school of some sort of tetras or rasboras. I do have very hard, alkaline water. My von rios are pretty but they're not as active as I was hoping for in small schooling fish. My nitrate reading is safe, but I can never seem to get it to read zero (we have some in our tap from all the local farms), so that's part of the reason why I'm trying to add some plants, as I heard they were an excellent addition to help make my water the best that it can be.

It's a 38g tank with high filtration and aeration. I would say medium-slightly high current.

Any suggestions?

Mel

P.S.
I finally felt so bad for my swim bladder tetra that I euthanized him. The remaining 4 are doing really well...so far. I think my water might just be to alkaline and hard for them.


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20021 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
I would say the best way is to get some loaches...they love them ;-) It's a
natural method of controlling snails that doesn't include waging chemical
warfare on your tank ;-) Snails are actually pretty cool and provide live
food for some fish.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, 06 December 2006 18:21
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what
to add to my tank



1. I use alum, when I do it, simply because it is already hanging around,
not that it offers a significant advantage to potassium permanganate.

2. Are you asking about the life span of a snail? Depends on the snail, the
water temperature and conditions, the kind of fish kept with it, etc. IF you
are asking how long it takes eggs to hatch, the same applies, but they
should be hatching within a few days of coming into your care, certainly no
more than a week--depends on when they were laid.

Snails are not to be considered anathema to the experience. You've already
given the plants a bath and inspected them more than once, that should be
sufficient. Though less common, there are other routes for snails to make
their way to your aquarium, other than via plants or direct introduction.
Small snails may be included with the fish you bring home, or an egg or two.
Pouring the water through a net into a container, then moving the fish to a
tank with the net may help prevent this, but, again, not fool proof. The
snail or egg may not go through the net.

If you do get a snail or two into your tank, deal with it then, don't go
overboard trying to get rid of all snails from all sources..

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Mel Bowman
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to
add to my tank

Hi everyone,
I'm thinking of diving into the world of planted aquariums. I bought a small
java ferm and am currently quarantining FAR away from my tank. I found no
snails but several snail eggs. I cleaned them off and rinced the plant
really well...but I'm sure I didn't get all of them. I was wondering a few
things.

1. How do YOU clean your plants?

2. How long is the life cycle of a snail? In other words, how long do I have
to keep this plant in quarantine to make sure I got all the snail eggs?

I've heard about using alum and potassium permananate...also heard of using
beach, though I doubt I'll do that. I just really, really dont want snails
in my tank. I can get alum and PP really easily.

Oh, one more question (actually two). In Petsmart they had these really look
looking fish that looked like a gourami, except with a leopard pattern
(yellow with dark brown-black spots). They called it a leaf fish, but I
haven't found any on line by the name of leaf fish that looked anything like
it. They were listed as tropical semi-aggressive, and I was just wondering
if anyone knows what they are and had any experience with them?

So far my gold gourami has been an excellent citizen in my tank. He's still
pretty shy around me but he doesn't bother anyone in my tank. My husband
would like one more gourami but I'm not sure I should tempt fate on that
one. Even when I added the von rio tetras (there are 4 now) he never
pestered them. I also have 6 platys, an angelicus loach, and a rubber nose
pleco in my tank, and so far everyone is pretty happy. I figure I have room
for either one more larger fish (like a gourami), or three platys, or a
small school of some sort of tetras or rasboras. I do have very hard,
alkaline water. My von rios are pretty but they're not as active as I was
hoping for in small schooling fish. My nitrate reading is safe, but I can
never seem to get it to read zero (we have some in our tap from all the
local farms), so that's part of the reason why I'm trying to add some
plants, as I heard they were an excellent addition to help make my water the
best that it can be.

It's a 38g tank with high filtration and aeration. I would say
medium-slightly high current.

Any suggestions?

Mel

P.S.
I finally felt so bad for my swim bladder tetra that I euthanized him. The
remaining 4 are doing really well...so far. I think my water might just be
to alkaline and hard for them.

---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20022 From: Allison Kulp Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
I have muscle problems from epilepsy and never was able to use those
siphons well and I live in a funky old apartment with odd faucets that
don't work well with Python. I found a siphon at Petsmart called the
bio orb. It's got a squeeze bulb and works wonderfully in tanks from
10 gallon to 55 (my biggest). And it's cheap with no batteries to die
on you.
My cats love to drink dirty fish water for some reason, but they won't
eat tuna or salon.
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, December 3, 2006 1:33:35 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] gravel vacs
>
> OK. That's it. How in the heck do you guys clean your gravel? I just
bought
> a Battery Operated gravel vac by Aquatic gardens. First of all, the
damn
> thing does'nt siphon worth crap. Then, it started dying out on me.
> Remember folks, I was the one who had swallowed fish water
((YUCK!!))) And
> am looking for a simpler way of siphoning without using my mouth.
Never again!!
> I am so frustrated!! Does anyone know where I can get a really good
one?? I
> am at the end of my wits here.
>
>
> Seasons Greetings
> Karen
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com.
Try it now.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20023 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
They also have a battery operated vac. i don;t know how good it is, but I
have thought about grabbing one for spot cleaning

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Allison Kulp
Sent: Wednesday, 06 December 2006 20:39
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: gravel vacs



I have muscle problems from epilepsy and never was able to use those
siphons well and I live in a funky old apartment with odd faucets that
don't work well with Python. I found a siphon at Petsmart called the
bio orb. It's got a squeeze bulb and works wonderfully in tanks from
10 gallon to 55 (my biggest). And it's cheap with no batteries to die
on you.
My cats love to drink dirty fish water for some reason, but they won't
eat tuna or salon.
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, December 3, 2006 1:33:35 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] gravel vacs
>
> OK. That's it. How in the heck do you guys clean your gravel? I just
bought
> a Battery Operated gravel vac by Aquatic gardens. First of all, the
damn
> thing does'nt siphon worth crap. Then, it started dying out on me.
> Remember folks, I was the one who had swallowed fish water
((YUCK!!))) And
> am looking for a simpler way of siphoning without using my mouth.
Never again!!
> I am so frustrated!! Does anyone know where I can get a really good
one?? I
> am at the end of my wits here.
>
>
> Seasons Greetings
> Karen
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________
> Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com.
Try it now.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20024 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/6/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
I tried it. Its a rotten deal.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20025 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/7/2006
Subject: Re: gravel vacs
The only thing you have to worry about with your animals drinking fish water
is whats called "giardia".
They can be vaccinated for it, but, its best to not let them do that.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20026 From: Angelia Moore Date: 12/7/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
How agressive are loaches?

"Rev. Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote: I would say the best way is to get some loaches...they love them ;-) It's a
natural method of controlling snails that doesn't include waging chemical
warfare on your tank ;-) Snails are actually pretty cool and provide live
food for some fish.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, 06 December 2006 18:21
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what
to add to my tank

1. I use alum, when I do it, simply because it is already hanging around,
not that it offers a significant advantage to potassium permanganate.

2. Are you asking about the life span of a snail? Depends on the snail, the
water temperature and conditions, the kind of fish kept with it, etc. IF you
are asking how long it takes eggs to hatch, the same applies, but they
should be hatching within a few days of coming into your care, certainly no
more than a week--depends on when they were laid.

Snails are not to be considered anathema to the experience. You've already
given the plants a bath and inspected them more than once, that should be
sufficient. Though less common, there are other routes for snails to make
their way to your aquarium, other than via plants or direct introduction.
Small snails may be included with the fish you bring home, or an egg or two.
Pouring the water through a net into a container, then moving the fish to a
tank with the net may help prevent this, but, again, not fool proof. The
snail or egg may not go through the net.

If you do get a snail or two into your tank, deal with it then, don't go
overboard trying to get rid of all snails from all sources..

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Mel Bowman
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to
add to my tank

Hi everyone,
I'm thinking of diving into the world of planted aquariums. I bought a small
java ferm and am currently quarantining FAR away from my tank. I found no
snails but several snail eggs. I cleaned them off and rinced the plant
really well...but I'm sure I didn't get all of them. I was wondering a few
things.

1. How do YOU clean your plants?

2. How long is the life cycle of a snail? In other words, how long do I have
to keep this plant in quarantine to make sure I got all the snail eggs?

I've heard about using alum and potassium permananate...also heard of using
beach, though I doubt I'll do that. I just really, really dont want snails
in my tank. I can get alum and PP really easily.

Oh, one more question (actually two). In Petsmart they had these really look
looking fish that looked like a gourami, except with a leopard pattern
(yellow with dark brown-black spots). They called it a leaf fish, but I
haven't found any on line by the name of leaf fish that looked anything like
it. They were listed as tropical semi-aggressive, and I was just wondering
if anyone knows what they are and had any experience with them?

So far my gold gourami has been an excellent citizen in my tank. He's still
pretty shy around me but he doesn't bother anyone in my tank. My husband
would like one more gourami but I'm not sure I should tempt fate on that
one. Even when I added the von rio tetras (there are 4 now) he never
pestered them. I also have 6 platys, an angelicus loach, and a rubber nose
pleco in my tank, and so far everyone is pretty happy. I figure I have room
for either one more larger fish (like a gourami), or three platys, or a
small school of some sort of tetras or rasboras. I do have very hard,
alkaline water. My von rios are pretty but they're not as active as I was
hoping for in small schooling fish. My nitrate reading is safe, but I can
never seem to get it to read zero (we have some in our tap from all the
local farms), so that's part of the reason why I'm trying to add some
plants, as I heard they were an excellent addition to help make my water the
best that it can be.

It's a 38g tank with high filtration and aeration. I would say
medium-slightly high current.

Any suggestions?

Mel

P.S.
I finally felt so bad for my swim bladder tetra that I euthanized him. The
remaining 4 are doing really well...so far. I think my water might just be
to alkaline and hard for them.

---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






God is blessing me daily and daily I thank Him for you, and what you add to my life.
Angelia Moore



---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20027 From: Mel Bowman Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
My angelicus loach is a wonderful citizen in my community tank.

Mel


---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20028 From: Betty Lou Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Guppies - fin biting by female or platy?
I have a little blue male guppy currently in quarentine recovering
from bullying by either my female guppy or my ?male? platy. These
are the only 3 mid water fish in my tank, the rest are bottom
dwellers. Mr Guppy seems to be recovering, but I didn't expect him
to make it this long - I thought I had waited too long.

I noticed that he was hiding in the top dark corner of the tank, but
didn't seem the damage to his big tail fin until he started hovering
on the bottom, at which time I scooped him up to pamper him a
little.

Is it safe to release him in about a week, or do I need to buy a
different tank for him? Is this something the female would have done
in a mating ritual of some type? He is a very young fellow I think,
as I have watched him color out from a pale little fellow with huge
fins I bought several months ago.

Do I need to buy a friend for the platy? He just lost his other
friend about 2 weeks ago - about the time this happened.

I really wish I knew who did this, but I didn't see any activity that
I even in retrospect consider to be questionable.

Betty Lou
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20029 From: Allison Kulp Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Dwarf Gourami concern
This is the second time this has happened. The tank is fine, all
systems AOK, and yet...
The little dwarf red and silver gourami ...curls.He's alive and
curling up. No one's hurt him, the blue and red one's fine, and yet he
looks like the letter C.
This is the second one of the same color that has done this. Different
LFS source too. No sores, no fungus, just curling up. What's going on?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20030 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
hmmmmm almost sounds like he or she wants to breed as that is sounding like the breeding position, when the male curls around a female. This is just a guess however otherwise I would have no idea.

Ivan
AquaticElf@...


----- Original Message -----
From: Allison Kulp
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 6:16 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Dwarf Gourami concern


This is the second time this has happened. The tank is fine, all
systems AOK, and yet...
The little dwarf red and silver gourami ...curls.He's alive and
curling up. No one's hurt him, the blue and red one's fine, and yet he
looks like the letter C.
This is the second one of the same color that has done this. Different
LFS source too. No sores, no fungus, just curling up. What's going on?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20031 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Re: Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my
Depends on the loach species and individual. On the whole, loaches are not too aggressive toward other fish, and most like to be kept in a group situation with others of its kind. Meet that criteria, and you should be all set with what one would normally see in a shop.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Angelia Moore
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to add to my tank

How agressive are loaches?

"Rev. Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote: I would say the best way is to get some loaches...they love them ;-) It's a
natural method of controlling snails that doesn't include waging chemical
warfare on your tank ;-) Snails are actually pretty cool and provide live
food for some fish.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, 06 December 2006 18:21
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what
to add to my tank

1. I use alum, when I do it, simply because it is already hanging around,
not that it offers a significant advantage to potassium permanganate.

2. Are you asking about the life span of a snail? Depends on the snail, the
water temperature and conditions, the kind of fish kept with it, etc. IF you
are asking how long it takes eggs to hatch, the same applies, but they
should be hatching within a few days of coming into your care, certainly no
more than a week--depends on when they were laid.

Snails are not to be considered anathema to the experience. You've already
given the plants a bath and inspected them more than once, that should be
sufficient. Though less common, there are other routes for snails to make
their way to your aquarium, other than via plants or direct introduction.
Small snails may be included with the fish you bring home, or an egg or two.
Pouring the water through a net into a container, then moving the fish to a
tank with the net may help prevent this, but, again, not fool proof. The
snail or egg may not go through the net.

If you do get a snail or two into your tank, deal with it then, don't go
overboard trying to get rid of all snails from all sources..

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Mel Bowman
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions: Ridding new plants of snails, AND what to
add to my tank

Hi everyone,
I'm thinking of diving into the world of planted aquariums. I bought a small
java ferm and am currently quarantining FAR away from my tank. I found no
snails but several snail eggs. I cleaned them off and rinced the plant
really well...but I'm sure I didn't get all of them. I was wondering a few
things.

1. How do YOU clean your plants?

2. How long is the life cycle of a snail? In other words, how long do I have
to keep this plant in quarantine to make sure I got all the snail eggs?

I've heard about using alum and potassium permananate...also heard of using
beach, though I doubt I'll do that. I just really, really dont want snails
in my tank. I can get alum and PP really easily.

Oh, one more question (actually two). In Petsmart they had these really look
looking fish that looked like a gourami, except with a leopard pattern
(yellow with dark brown-black spots). They called it a leaf fish, but I
haven't found any on line by the name of leaf fish that looked anything like
it. They were listed as tropical semi-aggressive, and I was just wondering
if anyone knows what they are and had any experience with them?

So far my gold gourami has been an excellent citizen in my tank. He's still
pretty shy around me but he doesn't bother anyone in my tank. My husband
would like one more gourami but I'm not sure I should tempt fate on that
one. Even when I added the von rio tetras (there are 4 now) he never
pestered them. I also have 6 platys, an angelicus loach, and a rubber nose
pleco in my tank, and so far everyone is pretty happy. I figure I have room
for either one more larger fish (like a gourami), or three platys, or a
small school of some sort of tetras or rasboras. I do have very hard,
alkaline water. My von rios are pretty but they're not as active as I was
hoping for in small schooling fish. My nitrate reading is safe, but I can
never seem to get it to read zero (we have some in our tap from all the
local farms), so that's part of the reason why I'm trying to add some
plants, as I heard they were an excellent addition to help make my water the
best that it can be.

It's a 38g tank with high filtration and aeration. I would say
medium-slightly high current.

Any suggestions?

Mel

P.S.
I finally felt so bad for my swim bladder tetra that I euthanized him. The
remaining 4 are doing really well...so far. I think my water might just be
to alkaline and hard for them.

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






God is blessing me daily and daily I thank Him for you, and what you add to my life.
Angelia Moore



---------------------------------
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20032 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/8/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
Does he curl up and then straighten up. I know that when they are breeding they curly themselves around the female.


----- Original Message ----
From: Allison Kulp <cardassianfire@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 8, 2006 7:16:45 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Dwarf Gourami concern

This is the second time this has happened. The tank is fine, all
systems AOK, and yet...
The little dwarf red and silver gourami ...curls.He' s alive and
curling up. No one's hurt him, the blue and red one's fine, and yet he
looks like the letter C.
This is the second one of the same color that has done this. Different
LFS source too. No sores, no fungus, just curling up. What's going on?






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20033 From: deborahgd14 Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Tank
Hey: I love the cover picture of the planted aquarium and the angel
fish. I am starting up a 46 bow tank. Could you give me some
suggestions to get mine like that? What kind of lighting to you use?
How did you decide on what plants to use, etc? It is beautiful!!!
Deborah D
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20034 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Cory breeding question
I am trying out some C. hastatus as a cleaning crew for my betta
spawning tanks, and would like to try out some C. pygmaeus as well,
since they are small, calm, bottom fish. If this works out, how would
I go about inducing THEM to spawn as well, so I can keep a healthy
population of them for my tanks?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20035 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Re: Tank
I start with the substrate. Many plants require a rich substrate, some
require a fairly poor one. I mix laterite, vermiculite, peat moss, and
a bit of soft sand in with enough water to make the substrate doughy,
and then pat it into the bottom of the tank, sculpting hills and
valleys. Then I top with gravel/sand/pebbles I use standard aquarium
lighting, but you can boost that by either adding a second lighting
strip, or using specialized lighting. Plantgeek.net and
freshwateraquariumplants.com are a couple of sites that help me figure
out which plants I want.

> Hey: I love the cover picture of the planted aquarium and the angel
> fish. I am starting up a 46 bow tank. Could you give me some
> suggestions to get mine like that? What kind of lighting to you
use?
> How did you decide on what plants to use, etc? It is beautiful!!!
> Deborah D
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20036 From: husmousa Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Scooter Blenny swimming funny and not eating
Hi all,

I had a scooter blenny in my 20 gallon tank for about 4 month. It has
been doing very good.

About a week ago it started swimming funndy. It would dart across the
middle of the tank and wouldn't swim straight but rather in spirals.

Eventually it lost that ability and became still on the floor for most
of the time, eventually moving in small strides again in this spiral
fashion.

I also noticed it wasn't eating very well if at all. It normally sifts
through the sand and I supplement its diet with sinking shrimp pallets.

My tank has been going for 6 months. It has a very wide diversity of
invertebrates and two other fish (clown and bicolor blenny) who all
seem to be doing fine.

I tested the parameteres and all seemed fine.

It has passed away since, and I really like that fish and would like
to get another one. But I am curious as to what happened to it and how
I can prevent it from happening to a future Scooter Blenny
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20037 From: lindsay_aquariumofthebay Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Breakfast with Santa at Aquarium of the Bay
Santa is coming to Aquarium of the Bay and
this time he is coming by BOAT!
(His reindeer are resting their hooves for their long trek on
Christmas Eve.)


See Santa arrive at the Aquarium by boat and then join him for some
very special holiday fun inside the Aquarium at our Breakfast with
Santa holiday event. Here's what your family will enjoy:
See Santa arrive at the Aquarium by boat!
(behind the Aquarium in the PIER 39 marina)
Continental breakfast
Holiday crafts and games
Exclusive access to Aquarium exhibits before they are open to the
general public
Scavenger hunt (children 12 and under)
Free holiday gift (children 12 and under)
Photo opportunity with Santa

Dates: Sat, Dec. 16 & Sun, Dec. 17, 2006
Time: 9:00am—11:00am (Both Days)

Tickets must be purchased by Thurs, Dec 14.
For more information or to
purchase tickets please contact
Lindsay Welch
Phone: (415) 623-5346
Fax: (415) 623-5324
Email:
lindsayw@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20038 From: AquaticLife Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Re: Breakfast with Santa at Aquarium of the Bay
Hi All,

I let this post in "the spirit of the Holidays" and there are a lot
of members here from the SF Bay Area, so perhaps it may be of intrest
to them.

Thanks and Seasons Greetings


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "lindsay_aquariumofthebay"
<lindsay_aquariumofthebay@...> wrote:
>
> Santa is coming to Aquarium of the Bay and
> this time he is coming by BOAT!
> (His reindeer are resting their hooves for their long trek on
> Christmas Eve.)
>
>
> See Santa arrive at the Aquarium by boat and then join him for some
> very special holiday fun inside the Aquarium at our Breakfast with
> Santa holiday event. Here's what your family will enjoy:
> See Santa arrive at the Aquarium by boat!
> (behind the Aquarium in the PIER 39 marina)
> Continental breakfast
> Holiday crafts and games
> Exclusive access to Aquarium exhibits before they are open to the
> general public
> Scavenger hunt (children 12 and under)
> Free holiday gift (children 12 and under)
> Photo opportunity with Santa
>
> Dates: Sat, Dec. 16 & Sun, Dec. 17, 2006
> Time: 9:00am—11:00am (Both Days)
>
> Tickets must be purchased by Thurs, Dec 14.
> For more information or to
> purchase tickets please contact
> Lindsay Welch
> Phone: (415) 623-5346
> Fax: (415) 623-5324
> Email:
> lindsayw@...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20039 From: Melissa Laing Date: 12/9/2006
Subject: Re: Cory breeding question
... sorry I didn't read the original post. I have not
had any spawn yet... good luck with that (and if it
works out keep me updated, I'd love to hear about it
.. since I'm not allowed to encourage it and have to
cull all new babies >p )
Melissa

--- cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
wrote:

> I am trying out some C. hastatus as a cleaning crew
> for my betta
> spawning tanks, and would like to try out some C.
> pygmaeus as well,
> since they are small, calm, bottom fish. If this
> works out, how would
> I go about inducing THEM to spawn as well, so I can
> keep a healthy
> population of them for my tanks?
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20040 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/10/2006
Subject: Moving & Acclimating fish
I am moving soon so I have to give up my tanks and fish. =(
I have a friend who is going to take one aquarium w/ the mated angels
plus she is taking several of my other fish from other tanks.
Our water is very different so we are trying to figure out the best way
to minimize shock.
We've discussed her bringing over water for me to use in my water
changes to acclimate them. Does this sound like a good idea?

This is happening before Christmas so we have some time to get the fish
used to her water, we just want to do it right. She will bring me water
from each tank that my fish are to go into and I will add it to the
appropriate habitat.

If anyone has any suggestions on how we can do this better and make it
easier on the fish, please share.

Many thanks,
Leslie

PS
I'm also selling a 130 Oceanic w/ fish and filters if you know anyone in
Arkansas that might be looking! $300


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20041 From: Allison Kulp Date: 12/10/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
Nope. I've seen my bettas curl for breeding. For some reason, he just
curls up and swims curled like that.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
>
> Does he curl up and then straighten up. I know that when they are
breeding they curly themselves around the female.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20042 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: PH in tank higher than tap
The pH in one of my tanks is 7.6. The pH in my tap is 7. What would
cause this to happen, for the pH to rise? I just a did a water change
yesterday so I'm really stumped. I need it lower.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20043 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
What kind of decor do you have in the tank?

Leslie & Dane <5moores@...> wrote: The pH in one of my tanks is 7.6. The pH in my tap is 7. What would
cause this to happen, for the pH to rise? I just a did a water change
yesterday so I'm really stumped. I need it lower.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20044 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
On Tuesday 12 December 2006 08:23, Leslie & Dane wrote:
> The pH in one of my tanks is 7.6. The pH in my tap is 7. What would
> cause this to happen, for the pH to rise? I just a did a water change
> yesterday so I'm really stumped. I need it lower.

You may have something leaking kH in the tank. Not too worry, 7.6 is fine. Why
do you think you need it lower? Are you trying to breed neons?

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20045 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
What would leak kH?

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Tim Fairchild
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] PH in tank higher than tap



On Tuesday 12 December 2006 08:23, Leslie & Dane wrote:
> The pH in one of my tanks is 7.6. The pH in my tap is 7. What would
> cause this to happen, for the pH to rise? I just a did a water change
> yesterday so I'm really stumped. I need it lower.

You may have something leaking kH in the tank. Not too worry, 7.6 is
fine. Why
do you think you need it lower? Are you trying to breed neons?

tim

--
----------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
----------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@... <mailto:tim%40bcs4me.com>
Homepage http://www.bcs4me. <http://www.bcs4me.com> com
Photos http://www.pbase. <http://www.pbase.com/amosf> com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me. <http://bcs4me.com/blog> com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever> .org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
----------------------------------------------------------






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20046 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
I have plants and gravel. All the plants are seemingly healthy and the
filters are running fine.
I did pull out a semi-rotting plant yesterday but that's when I did the
water change.
Any ideas?
Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Chad Plum
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] PH in tank higher than tap



What kind of decor do you have in the tank?

Leslie & Dane <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net> net>
wrote: The pH in one of my tanks is 7.6. The pH in my tap is 7. What
would
cause this to happen, for the pH to rise? I just a did a water change
yesterday so I'm really stumped. I need it lower.

Thanks,
Leslie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20047 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
On Tuesday 12 December 2006 09:13, Leslie & Dane wrote:
> What would leak kH?

Crushed coral, some types of substrate. Or maybe the water you put in last
time was slightly harder. There are other factors that change pH too, of
course, so you probably need to know what the kH of the water is as well to
get some ideas... There could even be some ions in the tap water which lower
the pH and then are broken down or dissipate in the tank.

tim

> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Tim Fairchild
> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] PH in tank higher than tap
>
> On Tuesday 12 December 2006 08:23, Leslie & Dane wrote:
> > The pH in one of my tanks is 7.6. The pH in my tap is 7. What would
> > cause this to happen, for the pH to rise? I just a did a water change
> > yesterday so I'm really stumped. I need it lower.
>
> You may have something leaking kH in the tank. Not too worry, 7.6 is
> fine. Why
> do you think you need it lower? Are you trying to breed neons?
>
> tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20048 From: its a secret Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: a very large aquarium
My dear friend has recently purchased a house and apparently my
enthusiasm for aquariums is contagious. He is insisting
upon building an aquarium into a wall in the living area that will end
up being 240 gallons! The house does not have a basement and sits on a
slab. I'm asking if anyone knows of any important facts or tips to
maintain the integrity on the aquarium and the home. One day I would
like MY home to look like the Rainforest Cafe. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20049 From: its a secret Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: one more question...
Does anyone know how to breed Silver Dollars? How old do they need to
be before they are mature? I have a 50 gallon and 3 silver dollars, all
about 4-5 inches. They are currently in with other fish, 1 Pearl
Gourami, 1 XLg green barb, a stone cat, a blue ram, 2 cory cats, 1
Crown Tail Beta, and a spotted sailfin pleco. They all get along just
fine. They've established their hierarchy with surprisingly few battle
scars. I would really like to breed the silver dollars for fun. They
are very sensitive fish and I had to learn how to handle them
specifically. They, my whole tank, has been disease free and
B E A-UTIFUL for over two years now. I love fish. They're peaceful and
relaxing.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20050 From: Allison Kulp Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
Nope. Poor little critter passed on earlier. The closest thing I can
find is air bladder problems, although neither of these gouramis had
injuries and it came on suddenly after having them for a year or so.
Plus the blue and red ones have never had any problems. Also, air
bladder issues usually present themselves differently (had a lemon
tetra die due to this). It reminds me somewhat of the dragon fish or
violet gobys that I used to get at Walmart - they were fine, happy and
dead within three months. Anyone else having issues with these little
guys from the bigger pet stores in the Albuquerque area? It might just
be the breeding stock having some sort of genetic oddity.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "AquaticElf" <AquaticElf@...> wrote:
>
> hmmmmm almost sounds like he or she wants to breed as that is
sounding like the breeding position, when the male curls around a
female. This is just a guess however otherwise I would have no idea.
>
> Ivan
> AquaticElf@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20051 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/11/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
The curling thing...could it have been parisites in the head? Could
the fish have been trying to scrape itchy parasites off its' scales by
rubbing around on the gravel? Perhaps it could have been constipated
and having stomach pain? Did you try using the epsom salt, sea salt
baths and dips for the fish?

> Nope. Poor little critter passed on earlier. The closest thing I can
> find is air bladder problems, although neither of these gouramis had
> injuries and it came on suddenly after having them for a year or so.
> Plus the blue and red ones have never had any problems. Also, air
> bladder issues usually present themselves differently (had a lemon
> tetra die due to this). It reminds me somewhat of the dragon fish or
> violet gobys that I used to get at Walmart - they were fine, happy and
> dead within three months. Anyone else having issues with these little
> guys from the bigger pet stores in the Albuquerque area? It might just
> be the breeding stock having some sort of genetic oddity.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20052 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
I know that it is safe to put terra cotta planters in a tank but what about
a terra cotta chia pet sans plant? I think it would be kind of cool to have a
chia pet java fern. Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20053 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
It would e unusual for the pH to rise rapidly in your tank from a source
of calcium as has been suggested in other replies. Such a source would
either simply maintain a certain pH or gradually raise it, depending on
the frequency and size of your water changes.

Since you seem to suggest that there have been no real changes in your
tank other than the removal of rotting waste, which would lower the pH,
I'd take a look at the water coming into the tank. Sure, the tap water
may read 7.0 when you measure the pH straight from the tap, but have you
checked it after it has been sitting out for 24 hours? Try that and see
if there is an increase in the measured pH. Also do a sample after you
have added your favorite water conditioner(s) to determine if that may
be having an effect. Also measure straight away and after 24 hours so
you have a comparison between the two samples.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Leslie & Dane
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 5:24 PM
To: uniquaria@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] PH in tank higher than tap

The pH in one of my tanks is 7.6. The pH in my tap is 7. What would
cause this to happen, for the pH to rise? I just a did a water change
yesterday so I'm really stumped. I need it lower.

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20054 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
On Tuesday 12 December 2006 21:40, Steve Szabo wrote:
> It would e unusual for the pH to rise rapidly in your tank from a source
> of calcium as has been suggested in other replies. Such a source would
> either simply maintain a certain pH or gradually raise it, depending on
> the frequency and size of your water changes.

Well, my suggestion is more that the tank pH is higher in the long term
possibly from substrate and you are mixing that water with the lower pH water
in the change. I don't know if they checked the tank water pH previous to the
change or that it rose suddenly.

> Since you seem to suggest that there have been no real changes in your
> tank other than the removal of rotting waste, which would lower the pH,
> I'd take a look at the water coming into the tank. Sure, the tap water
> may read 7.0 when you measure the pH straight from the tap, but have you
> checked it after it has been sitting out for 24 hours? Try that and see
> if there is an increase in the measured pH. Also do a sample after you
> have added your favorite water conditioner(s) to determine if that may
> be having an effect. Also measure straight away and after 24 hours so
> you have a comparison between the two samples.

My thoughts as well. Any ions in the water (chlorine, etc) might affect the pH
slightly and that would settle in time.

Still, I don't understand what the problem with the 7.5 pH is anyway.

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20055 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
Once your friend takes a serious look at the costs associated with such
a project, and its effect on the resale of the house, he may change his
mind.
Since the house is built on a slab, he should not have to worry too much
about the weight factor, though the slab is probably rated for a certain
amount of weight per square measurement. He may wish to check that first
and determine if it will indeed support his tank.

The wall he wishes to build into cannot be a load bearing wall. That is
that it cannot be a wall that supports construction of the home higher
up over the wall.

He must allow for maintenance of the aquarium by providing access to it
from behind and the ends. This means that he will be, in effect,
building a small room to enclose the aquarium. Water and drains as well
as electricity need to be provided. The water and drain to facilitate
water changes, and electricity for the heaters, pumps, and lights that
will be needed. He may also wish to have a small workbench area for food
prep, and as a space to perform other aquarium related tasks.

There is also the question of whether it will be a real built in tank,
custom made for the space, or if he will simply purchase of the rack, so
to speak, by purchasing a ready built aquarium. A custom job will be
many times the cost of simply framing a standard sized tank.

He will need to involve at least an engineer, if not an architect for
this kind of project. It does not really fall into the class of a DIY
project. The associated costs will probably rise far quicker than he
expects, as well as any spousal interference with such a project, since
he will be removing a certain amount of space the other half may wish to
use for other things.

If he can do all this, by all means proceed. Do it well and make us all
proud or envious.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of its a secret
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 6:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] a very large aquarium

My dear friend has recently purchased a house and apparently my
enthusiasm for aquariums is contagious. He is insisting
upon building an aquarium into a wall in the living area that will end
up being 240 gallons! The house does not have a basement and sits on a
slab. I'm asking if anyone knows of any important facts or tips to
maintain the integrity on the aquarium and the home. One day I would
like MY home to look like the Rainforest Cafe. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20056 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: PH in tank higher than tap
"Still, I don't understand what the problem with the 7.5 pH is anyway"

I didn't really say it was a problem but I like to know the causes of
what happens in my tanks.

Plus my angels are trying to spawn and I think this will hinder them in
doing so.

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Tim Fairchild
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 6:01 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] PH in tank higher than tap



On Tuesday 12 December 2006 21:40, Steve Szabo wrote:
> It would e unusual for the pH to rise rapidly in your tank from a
source
> of calcium as has been suggested in other replies. Such a source would
> either simply maintain a certain pH or gradually raise it, depending
on
> the frequency and size of your water changes.

Well, my suggestion is more that the tank pH is higher in the long term
possibly from substrate and you are mixing that water with the lower pH
water
in the change. I don't know if they checked the tank water pH previous
to the
change or that it rose suddenly.

> Since you seem to suggest that there have been no real changes in your
> tank other than the removal of rotting waste, which would lower the
pH,
> I'd take a look at the water coming into the tank. Sure, the tap water
> may read 7.0 when you measure the pH straight from the tap, but have
you
> checked it after it has been sitting out for 24 hours? Try that and
see
> if there is an increase in the measured pH. Also do a sample after you
> have added your favorite water conditioner(s) to determine if that may
> be having an effect. Also measure straight away and after 24 hours so
> you have a comparison between the two samples.

My thoughts as well. Any ions in the water (chlorine, etc) might affect
the pH
slightly and that would settle in time.

.

tim

--
----------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
----------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@... <mailto:tim%40bcs4me.com>
Homepage http://www.bcs4me. <http://www.bcs4me.com> com
Photos http://www.pbase. <http://www.pbase.com/amosf> com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me. <http://bcs4me.com/blog> com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever> .org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
----------------------------------------------------------






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20057 From: Rob Zanussi Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
One thing I would like to comment on. It can be built into a load bearing
wall but it will require headers be installed above the opening to spread
the weight across the opening. Similar to doors and windows installed in
bearing walls. If as Steve suggests, this could turn into a small room
inside the wall to facilitate access, just the header installation alone
could be a daunting undertaking and probably not for someone unexperienced
in construction techniques.

Rob


At 06:56 AM 12/12/2006 -0500, Steve Szabo wrote:

> The wall he wishes to build into cannot be a load bearing wall. That is
> that it cannot be a wall that supports construction of the home higher
> up over the wall.

Do you realize that in about 40 years, we'll have millions of old ladies
running around with tattoos and pierced navels?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20058 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
I've seen this done a few times, and only once was it done well. The
enthusiasm got the better of the individuals in the first three I saw.
They didn't properly distrubute the load in the first instance, and the
second two were built sturdily, but it was nearly impossible to
actually get to the tank to clean and care for it and the fish. I
would suggest that he have a custom tank made and make a special niche
for it, rather than having a built in tank. And please tell him to
consider maintenance, and how the humidity will affect the surrounding
wall. Don't want that entire wall to mold and mildew due to the
humidity.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20059 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
LOL...Cute idea. I'd soak the heck out of the chia pet first, but it
should be okay

> I know that it is safe to put terra cotta planters in a tank but
what about
> a terra cotta chia pet sans plant? I think it would be kind of cool
to have a
> chia pet java fern. Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20060 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
Well let me add in here I have a 150 tall in my load bearing wall in the basement of my home. I did all of this construction with my Father-inlaw you don't really build a room you just have to make a stand big enough to start off with we did this by using the wall as part of the stand You place the Aquarium and then you have to build around the tank and stand and basically have it as a closet for the fish tank or at least a cabinet but yes it can be a room just not always needed

Rob Zanussi <rzanussi@...> wrote: One thing I would like to comment on. It can be built into a load bearing
wall but it will require headers be installed above the opening to spread
the weight across the opening. Similar to doors and windows installed in
bearing walls. If as Steve suggests, this could turn into a small room
inside the wall to facilitate access, just the header installation alone
could be a daunting undertaking and probably not for someone unexperienced
in construction techniques.

Rob

At 06:56 AM 12/12/2006 -0500, Steve Szabo wrote:

> The wall he wishes to build into cannot be a load bearing wall. That is
> that it cannot be a wall that supports construction of the home higher
> up over the wall.

Do you realize that in about 40 years, we'll have millions of old ladies
running around with tattoos and pierced navels?






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20061 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Don't they have fertilizers in them? That would be a disaster if there
were.

Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 9:02 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?



LOL...Cute idea. I'd soak the heck out of the chia pet first, but it
should be okay

> I know that it is safe to put terra cotta planters in a tank but
what about
> a terra cotta chia pet sans plant? I think it would be kind of cool
to have a
> chia pet java fern. Shannon







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20062 From: ItsmeDeanna64@aol.com Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
In a message dated 12/12/2006 10:18:24 A.M. Central Standard Time,
5moores@... writes:

Don't they have fertilizers in them? That would be a disaster if there
were.


*************************************************************
I would see if Chiapet has a website and you could write them and ask if
they add anything to the terra cotta (like fert.)
Worth the effort I'd say.
I think that's a great idea!
Deanna Cronan
Covington, GA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20063 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
That's why I'd soak the heck out of them, to get rid of the
fertilizers. They are pretty short lived water soluble types.

> Don't they have fertilizers in them? That would be a disaster if
there
> were.
>
> Leslie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20064 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Hi take a pic for us when you do i think that would be so cute.


----- Original Message ----
From: Leslie & Dane <5moores@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 11:02:40 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?

Don't they have fertilizers in them? That would be a disaster if there
were.

Leslie
<http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/CabotWomen sClub/?yguid= 239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 9:02 AM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?

LOL...Cute idea. I'd soak the heck out of the chia pet first, but it
should be okay

> I know that it is safe to put terra cotta planters in a tank but
what about
> a terra cotta chia pet sans plant? I think it would be kind of cool
to have a
> chia pet java fern. Shannon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20065 From: Cory Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
I went online to the chia pet website and asked if the chia pet would
grow totally submerged and if there was any fertilizer or anything
else harmful in it to prevent it from going into an aquarium. I'll
post the reply when I get it. In the meantime, here is their e-mail
address: newidea@...
It really sounds like a cute idea......guess we'll soon know.....Cory


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
>
> I know that it is safe to put terra cotta planters in a tank but
what about
> a terra cotta chia pet sans plant? I think it would be kind of
cool to have a
> chia pet java fern. Shannon
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20066 From: Cory Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Got the chia pet answer
The e-mail didn't go through, but the toll-free number did. The chia
pet will not grow if it is totally submerged in water. Didn't get the
fertilizer answer, though. Guess it's a moot point if they won't grow
in water.

Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20067 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Not really...you could use java moss to grow on the chia pet, or tie on
some java ferns. You could even tie down some ricci fluctans
(spelling) and make it grow like hair...it'll attach eventually, the
string will rot, but by that time the stuff should be growing fine

> The e-mail didn't go through, but the toll-free number did. The chia
> pet will not grow if it is totally submerged in water. Didn't get
the
> fertilizer answer, though. Guess it's a moot point if they won't
grow
> in water.
>
> Cory
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20068 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Discus
So, how challenging are discus to have in a tank? I'd like some tetras
in with my bettas and cories, and was thinking of maybe a few discus as
well? Would they do well?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20069 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Personally have a few in different communities plus breeders in other tanks, now this is JMO they aren't any harder than any other fish to keep. Stay on top of the water conditions, if you can find them locally bred they are a little easier as personally the most problems I've ever had in discus came from imported stock.
My discus in communities all have cory's, angels, dwarf cichlids, the betta females go there for conditioning prior to breeding not counting this or that in the growout tanks with discus youngsters.
Oh what size tank is it? that will also determine the # of discus you can put in there along with that have I found that like with other fish odd #'s work better than even.

Shannon

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
So, how challenging are discus to have in a tank? I'd like some tetras
in with my bettas and cories, and was thinking of maybe a few discus as
well? Would they do well?






---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20070 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
I have a 60 gallon and a 30 gallon tank that I plan to use for
community tanks. I really like tetras, neons, silver tips, green
fire, purple emporer, the small ones. And I had kinda wanted to have
some of those and discus, and glass catfish with my bettas and
cories, and maybe a couple of plecostamus, a dwarf african clawed
frog or two, and maybe some tiny shrimp and colorful snails.

> Personally have a few in different communities plus breeders in
other tanks, now this is JMO they aren't any harder than any other
fish to keep. Stay on top of the water conditions, if you can find
them locally bred they are a little easier as personally the most
problems I've ever had in discus came from imported stock.
> My discus in communities all have cory's, angels, dwarf
cichlids, the betta females go there for conditioning prior to
breeding not counting this or that in the growout tanks with discus
youngsters.
> Oh what size tank is it? that will also determine the # of
discus you can put in there along with that have I found that like
with other fish odd #'s work better than even.
>
> Shannon
>
> cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
> So, how challenging are discus to have in a tank? I'd
like some tetras
> in with my bettas and cories, and was thinking of maybe a few
discus as
> well? Would they do well?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20071 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
Well if there is no fertilizers in it it should be safe then the ? would be which one to choose lol.


----- Original Message ----
From: Cory <wdwwife@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 1:23:33 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?

I went online to the chia pet website and asked if the chia pet would
grow totally submerged and if there was any fertilizer or anything
else harmful in it to prevent it from going into an aquarium. I'll
post the reply when I get it. In the meantime, here is their e-mail
address: newidea@jeiusa. com
It really sounds like a cute idea......guess we'll soon know.....Cory

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, agentscullyeyore@ ... wrote:
>
>
> I know that it is safe to put terra cotta planters in a tank but
what about
> a terra cotta chia pet sans plant? I think it would be kind of
cool to have a
> chia pet java fern. Shannon
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20072 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Well didnt think it would grow when submerge but I was thinking the java fern might attach itself to it.


----- Original Message ----
From: Cory <wdwwife@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 1:28:24 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Got the chia pet answer

The e-mail didn't go through, but the toll-free number did. The chia
pet will not grow if it is totally submerged in water. Didn't get the
fertilizer answer, though. Guess it's a moot point if they won't grow
in water.

Cory






____________________________________________________________________________________
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20073 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Discus are so much better in a species only tank.


----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 2:24:44 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Discus

So, how challenging are discus to have in a tank? I'd like some tetras
in with my bettas and cories, and was thinking of maybe a few discus as
well? Would they do well?






____________________________________________________________________________________
Have a burning question?
Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20074 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Ah, but I really don't like species only tanks. I know they share
their environment in the wild with other species...I was hoping since I
tend to favor the small, peaceable fish that the discus would be fine
with them. If not I'll have to forego the discus fish

And, by the by, are silver dollar fish and angelfish types of discus?

> Discus are so much better in a species only tank.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20075 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Well Good Luck ;)


----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 3:39:58 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Discus

Ah, but I really don't like species only tanks. I know they share
their environment in the wild with other species...I was hoping since I
tend to favor the small, peaceable fish that the discus would be fine
with them. If not I'll have to forego the discus fish

And, by the by, are silver dollar fish and angelfish types of discus?

> Discus are so much better in a species only tank.
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20076 From: Cory Walter Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
It might attach to it, but still don't know what else might be in the chia pet pot......why not attach the java fern to a cute little clay figurine and put that in. That way you would know what was in it........the chia pets as they come in the box won't work, though........

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20077 From: Cory Walter Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
Just called the hotline again......I was told that there is no fertilizer or anything harmful on the chia pet........I bear no responsibility for their answer......I'm just the messenger.......

---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20078 From: chris topher Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
the LFS has large discus tanks with cardinals, and as
well as pleco and cory...looks nice



--- cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
wrote:

> Ah, but I really don't like species only tanks. I
> know they share
> their environment in the wild with other species...I
> was hoping since I
> tend to favor the small, peaceable fish that the
> discus would be fine
> with them. If not I'll have to forego the discus
> fish
>
> And, by the by, are silver dollar fish and angelfish
> types of discus?
>
> > Discus are so much better in a species only tank.
> >
>
>
>




test'; ">



____________________________________________________________________________________
Have a burning question?
Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20079 From: chris topher Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
chia pets are alfalfa seeds, needs to be moist to
sprout, dont actually require fertilizer, so i wonder
about that...


--- Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:

> Well didnt think it would grow when submerge but I
> was thinking the java fern might attach itself to
> it.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Cory <wdwwife@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 1:28:24 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Got the chia pet answer
>
> The e-mail didn't go through, but the toll-free
> number did. The chia
> pet will not grow if it is totally submerged in
> water. Didn't get the
> fertilizer answer, though. Guess it's a moot point
> if they won't grow
> in water.
>
> Cory
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail
> beta.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




test'; ">



____________________________________________________________________________________
Have a burning question?
Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20080 From: dwand4kids Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
There's a very active Yahoo Group your friend should check out...

Aquarium_Building@yahoogroups.com

He'll find a lot of helpful people and useful information here.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "its a secret" <kuntrywillow@...>
wrote:
>
> My dear friend has recently purchased a house and apparently my
> enthusiasm for aquariums is contagious. He is insisting
> upon building an aquarium into a wall in the living area that will
end
> up being 240 gallons! The house does not have a basement and sits
on a
> slab. I'm asking if anyone knows of any important facts or tips to
> maintain the integrity on the aquarium and the home. One day I
would
> like MY home to look like the Rainforest Cafe. :)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20081 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
They were spotted on the back of the tank. They are very small, no
bigger than my fingernail. These worm like creatures are white and they
are not on my Angelfishes or my algeater. And I have not put in any new
decorations in my tank for over a year, so they didn't come on any
decorations as they all get the dishwasher treatment when I got them.
I do not know what they are, so I am planning on tearing down my tank
completely and removing everything and getting rid of the critters. I
have no idea on how they got into my tank at all.
So am I right about tearing down my tank and cleaning it completely of
these critters?

Thanks,
Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20082 From: jane parry Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourami concern
I stopped buying fish at the Albuquerqe Walmarts about a year ago. They were healthy at first but soon developed health problems that are impossible to cure. I purchase my fish at Petco now. I am careful and observe the fish for awhile to make sure that they are active and do not show any signs of disease. They receive their fish on Tuesday so I go on Sunday to sure that they have recovered from the stress of transport. I have good results with Petco.

Allison Kulp <cardassianfire@...> wrote: Nope. Poor little critter passed on earlier. The closest thing I can
find is air bladder problems, although neither of these gouramis had
injuries and it came on suddenly after having them for a year or so.
Plus the blue and red ones have never had any problems. Also, air
bladder issues usually present themselves differently (had a lemon
tetra die due to this). It reminds me somewhat of the dragon fish or
violet gobys that I used to get at Walmart - they were fine, happy and
dead within three months. Anyone else having issues with these little
guys from the bigger pet stores in the Albuquerque area? It might just
be the breeding stock having some sort of genetic oddity.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "AquaticElf" <AquaticElf@...> wrote:
>
> hmmmmm almost sounds like he or she wants to breed as that is
sounding like the breeding position, when the male curls around a
female. This is just a guess however otherwise I would have no idea.
>
> Ivan
> AquaticElf@...






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20083 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Discus
Hello,
Angelfish and discus are both Cichlids, but angelfish are not discus. Although they share the same water parameters I would NOT mix them together. Angelfish can get down right Mean and discus are much more docile. Despite being more docile than angelfish when a pair of discus pair off in a tank they can and will often start to bully the other discus, especially if there are only three discus in the tank. A trio is often a way to pair up a pair for breeding purposes or to stimulate a non breeding pair to breed.

Silver dollars are NOT discus or cichlids for that matter. I would NOT mix them in as they will probably be too rambunctions for discus.

If you choose to buy discus buy them all at once and at the same size. Same size is crucial and not introducing other discus later on at a different time. Start them off all at once, probably from the same batch of fry. If you want to try your hand at breeding them someday you can get a pair or trio of the same size from different parents.

When you select discus CLOSELY observe them for illness. One thing I learned from a discus breeder is that if you see a discus in a little bit of trouble healthwise you stand an extremely low chance of having it recuperate despite medications and treatments.

What you can probably mix in a tank with discus are corydora catfish. They will usually just inhabit the very bottom of the tank and clean up little extra bits of food. You may be able to get some SMALL tetras to mix in the tank with them. This may actually help the discus relax as the tetras are not very skittish and will swim all about the tank. (dither fish) When I kept a small discus tank I got some small tetras and as soon as they were introduced to the tank the discus came out of hiding.

Water quality is absolutely essential when keepng discus. Frequent water changes with water of similar temp, pH, and hardness.

A good discus book is by Dick Au. http://www.amazon.com/Guide-Discus-Back-Nature-Dick/dp/3980560554
I am not pushing amazon as a seller. You can get it elsewhere. I do know Dick Au and have been to several of his lectures and he is an excellent discus breeder.

There are online discus forums you can join. There is at least one on Yahoo groups but it does not see a lot of traffic. Research research research. Discus are beautiful but the more you learn before you purchase them the less heart ache later on.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: brennewoman@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 12:39 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Discus


Ah, but I really don't like species only tanks. I know they share
their environment in the wild with other species...I was hoping since I
tend to favor the small, peaceable fish that the discus would be fine
with them. If not I'll have to forego the discus fish

And, by the by, are silver dollar fish and angelfish types of discus?

> Discus are so much better in a species only tank.
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20084 From: joe t Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: a very large aquarium
I read Steve Szabos's answer to your question. Believe me, he is right. I am not gong to reiterate all that Steve has told you, except to say that I tried with a room divider that I was told by all the "experts" my floor could "easily hold up". Everything was fine, till we noticed the floor starting to flex as we walked by the tank area. Needless to say the tank isn't there anymore. Thank goodness we had enough sense to move it before a tragedy happened.

In short, I strongly advise that you not tackle this yourself unless your friend is a contractor and understands the weight loads, etc. of the structure.......Get a pro to install it.

And, another thing, if you or he has little or no experience keeping an aquarium, you may be biting off more than you can chew. Of course, if you are going to have it professionally maintained, then that's another story, also.

On the positive side of looking at it, it would be one hell of a beautiful sight.


---------------------------------
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at Yahoo! Answers. Try it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20085 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Have you added any plants? Ill wait on breaking it down there could be a better way to get rid of them. I know that there are critters that end up growing in a very well established tank. They maybe just them?


----- Original Message ----
From: Beth Brownell <spencer_creek_studios@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 8:12:05 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Very strange worm like creatures in tank.

They were spotted on the back of the tank. They are very small, no
bigger than my fingernail. These worm like creatures are white and they
are not on my Angelfishes or my algeater. And I have not put in any new
decorations in my tank for over a year, so they didn't come on any
decorations as they all get the dishwasher treatment when I got them.
I do not know what they are, so I am planning on tearing down my tank
completely and removing everything and getting rid of the critters. I
have no idea on how they got into my tank at all.
So am I right about tearing down my tank and cleaning it completely of
these critters?

Thanks,
Beth






____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20086 From: Mel Bowman Date: 12/12/2006
Subject: Re: a very large aquarium
oh bah, with enough research and online reading i'm sure he could do an aquarium like that mostly on his own, if he's a handy person. i've seen people on reefcentral create far larger aquariums by themselves. there are plenty of people on line who have done it before and are more than happy to share their triumps and trials. 250 gallons is big by most standards, but it's not *really*.




---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20087 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Ch-ch-ch-chia?
I have had one once and you put the fertilizer and the seeds on the head
when you get it... so if you used it with the stuff already grown that stuff
would be all gone I would think especially if you soaked it.. but I cant wait
to hear what they say.. Shannon




I went online to the chia pet website and asked if the chia pet would
grow totally submerged and if there was any fertilizer or anything
else harmful in it to prevent it from going into an aquarium. I'll
post the reply when I get it. In the meantime, here is their e-mail
address: _newidea@..._ (mailto:newidea@...)
It really sounds like a cute idea......guess we'll soon know.....Cory









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20088 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
but you might be able to plant some of your other plants in its head lol
Shannon




The e-mail didn't go through, but the toll-free number did. The chia
pet will not grow if it is totally submerged in water. Didn't get the
fertilizer answer, though. Guess it's a moot point if they won't grow
in water.

Cory









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20089 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
yea if you have ever done one before you will know it wouldn't be possible
to grow in the water cause it wouldn't hold but after it is all grown I was
thinking is if it would be ok.. its just like water and seeds that you put on it
I don't think there is any fertilizer.. Shannon




Well didnt think it would grow when submerge but I was thinking the java
fern might attach itself to it.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20090 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Got the chia pet answer
that is what I thought cause when I did it it was just water and soaking the
seeds and letting them grow.. I thank if you let them get a full growth and
try it it should work the only prob is that the plants might not hold up in
the water as all plants don't.. my friend is the one that wanted to try it so
ill see what she does.. thanks for the call.. Shannon




Just called the hotline again......I was told that there is no fertilizer or
anything harmful on the chia pet........I bear no responsibility for their
answer......Just called the hotline againJust









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20091 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
There have been no plants added to this one tank at all. All the
plant that is there is plastic. All decorations and plastic plants
get a dishwasher run before they are placed within my tank and when
it comes time to clean them, they go into the dishwasher to be
cleaned, I run them through regular water to be sure that all soap
had been removed from the nooks and crannies of the decorations and
the plants themselves.
I have thought of adding plants to this one tank for a while.

Beth
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> Have you added any plants? Ill wait on breaking it down there could
be a better way to get rid of them. I know that there are critters
that end up growing in a very well established tank. They maybe just
them?
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Beth Brownell <spencer_creek_studios@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 8:12:05 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
>
> They were spotted on the back of the tank. They are very small, no
> bigger than my fingernail. These worm like creatures are white and
they
> are not on my Angelfishes or my algeater. And I have not put in any
new
> decorations in my tank for over a year, so they didn't come on any
> decorations as they all get the dishwasher treatment when I got
them.
> I do not know what they are, so I am planning on tearing down my
tank
> completely and removing everything and getting rid of the critters.
I
> have no idea on how they got into my tank at all.
> So am I right about tearing down my tank and cleaning it completely
of
> these critters?
>
> Thanks,
> Beth
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20092 From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: New poll for AquaticLife
Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the
AquaticLife group:

How long have you been interested in Aquatic Life?

That is, approximately for how much time now have you been
involved with the various aspects of the Aquarium hobby?

And please, if you've not taken the the chance to already,
vote in the other polls so that we can see what your intrests
are and how many tanks you currently have going.

Thank you

o 1 month or less
o 2 to 3 months
o 3 to 6 months
o 6 to 9 months
o 9 months to 1 year
o 1 to 2 years
o 2 to 3 years
o 3 to 4 years
o 4 to 5 years
o 5 to 6 years
o 6 to 7 years
o 7 to 8 years
o 8 to 9 years
o 9 to 10 years
o 10 to 11 years
o 11 to 12 years
o 12 to 15 years
o 15 to 20 years
o 20 to 25 years
o 25 to 30 years
o 30 to 35 years
o 35 to 40 years
o 40 to 45 years
o 45 to 50 years
o 50+ Years


To vote, please visit the following web page:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/surveys?id=2113290

Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are
not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups
web site listed above.

Thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20093 From: AquaticLife Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Not so New poll for AquaticLife
Woohoo! this poll is still going with 341 votes so far!

Have you voted yet?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com wrote:
>
>
>
> Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the
> AquaticLife group:
>
> Which title or titles best describe
> you as it relates to AquaticLife?
>
> Please select as many answers that
> apply.
>
> If "other", please post to the group
> with the Subject: Poll
>
> Thank you.
>
> o Aquarist
> o Ichthyologist
> o Marine Biologist
> o Researcher
> o Chemist
> o Veterinarian
> o Scientist
> o Hobbyist
> o Beginner
> o Novice
> o Intermediate
> o Advanced
> o Expert
> o Professional
> o LFS Owner or Worker
> o Supplier
> o Importer
> o Breeder
> o Collector
> o Fish Lover
> o Enthusiast
> o Naturalist
> o Photographer
> o Teacher
> o Student
>
>
> To vote, please visit the following web page:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/surveys?id=1652946
>
> Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are
> not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups
> web site listed above.
>
> Thanks!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20094 From: usnavyplanecaptain Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Beth,

I would try using a "ICK" medicine as it should kill the worms.

Use only if you dont have any animals it would harm.

Craig
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20095 From: Sam Tamura Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Could they be planaria?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Brownell"
<spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
>
> They were spotted on the back of the tank. They are very small, no
> bigger than my fingernail. These worm like creatures are white and they
> are not on my Angelfishes or my algeater. And I have not put in any new
> decorations in my tank for over a year, so they didn't come on any
> decorations as they all get the dishwasher treatment when I got them.
> I do not know what they are, so I am planning on tearing down my tank
> completely and removing everything and getting rid of the critters. I
> have no idea on how they got into my tank at all.
> So am I right about tearing down my tank and cleaning it completely of
> these critters?
>
> Thanks,
> Beth
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20096 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Heres what Planarium looks like.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planaria


----- Original Message ----
From: Sam Tamura <lists@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 1:54:38 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.

Could they be planaria?

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Beth Brownell"
<spencer_creek_ studios@. ..> wrote:
>
> They were spotted on the back of the tank. They are very small, no
> bigger than my fingernail. These worm like creatures are white and they
> are not on my Angelfishes or my algeater. And I have not put in any new
> decorations in my tank for over a year, so they didn't come on any
> decorations as they all get the dishwasher treatment when I got them.
> I do not know what they are, so I am planning on tearing down my tank
> completely and removing everything and getting rid of the critters. I
> have no idea on how they got into my tank at all.
> So am I right about tearing down my tank and cleaning it completely of
> these critters?
>
> Thanks,
> Beth
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20097 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
My tank has only Angelfishes and a pleco an alge eater.
I even suggested that I did that to my mom and older brother and they
said not to because they didn't know what the critters were.
I'll go do that right now.

Beth
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "usnavyplanecaptain"
<usnavyplanecaptain@...> wrote:
>
> Beth,
>
> I would try using a "ICK" medicine as it should kill the worms.
>
> Use only if you dont have any animals it would harm.
>
> Craig
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20098 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank/Plus tear down due to
I am also tearing the tank down because I have a bit of an alge problem
and my pleco is not touching the gravel at all.
My older brother suggested to me to take the gravel out and throw it
away as it is not good that you have so much in the tank and when I
went to scrap some off of the bottom part of the glass some of it came
off and he complained to me about how I am just putting the agle into
their water and that's not good for them.
But when I did a little next to the gravel covered closest to the glass
they became clean again. Should I throw them out and put new gravel in
or just clean it with the gravel debris as usual and let it go at that?
I am going to get new gravel tomorrow and plan on a day when I am able
to have help in tearing it down. I don't have a hospital tank to place
them in so I am using one of my water buckets to house them in till the
tear down is completed and the tank refilled. I may put more plants in
this tank of the plastic kind since I am not that good at getting the
real plants to grow, they mainly end up dying or going moldy on me.

Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20099 From: Allison Kulp Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Re: Dwarf Gourai concern
Nope. No parasites, tried salt bath, definitely not constipated, and
tried antibiotics also on both of them - they still curled themselves
to death. Plus one gourami was from a local Petsmart, and one from a
local Petco. I've rarely had any problems with any fish from either
store, even the ones from Walmart. I got a Walmart shubukin goldfish
who had only half a tail when I got him and four months later, he's
grown most of it back - spectacular tomato red, cobalt blue and black.

Posted by: "cynthia brennemann" brennewoman@... brennewomen
Mon Dec 11, 2006 9:49 pm (PST)
The curling thing...could it have been parisites in the head? Could
the fish have been trying to scrape itchy parasites off its' scales by
rubbing around on the gravel? Perhaps it could have been constipated
and having stomach pain? Did you try using the epsom salt, sea salt
baths and dips for the fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20100 From: AquaticElf Date: 12/13/2006
Subject: Anyone interested in a barnacle for their aquarium
_
Hi all,

I have a nice barnacle cluster if anyone is interested in such. They add nicely to aquarium decor. I bought them on aquabid.com and got too many, so have a extra one. I would be glad to trade with anyone for another kind of aquarium ornament. The one I hiave is larger than this picture and was not cheap either.



If anyone is interested in this, let me know

AquaticElf@...


Ivan
South Dakota


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20101 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/14/2006
Subject: Re: Anyone interested in a barnacle for their aquarium
Sounds cool...I wish barnacles could live in freshwater aquariums. I
love to watch saltwater aquariums that have lots of hidey holes for
their fish, and see the fish popping in and out of the holes like a toy
for toddlers.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20102 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Genetically defunct fish?
The rainbows that I purchased from Wal-Mart almost 2 months ago are
still having problems.
The white mouth continues to come back.

I've treated w/ tetracycline and it cleared up. Their mouths were raw
where the fungus had eaten so I added melafix and pimafix to prevent
further infection. This worked up to a point. One rainbow now has a
completely deformed mouth, with pieces of flesh hanging off of it.
Despite the pimafix in the water, their is white growing on his mouth as
well as one other fish's.

I've treated w/ first tetracycline (somewhat cleared), then with fungus
clear by jungle (again only somewhat cleared), then again w/ powder form
of tetracycline. The last treatment did the best and left only the
scarring but then of course now their are 2 affected fish again.

Is it possible that these fish came from bad breeding and are just
"doomed" so to speak? I just can't see why this would continue to come
back time and time again, and in such short intervals. Are some fish
genetically defunct and not able to fight infection?

Many thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20103 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Well, yes, just like humans some animals, fish, and birds are going to
be more susceptible than others to everything that comes along. No way
of knowing if that's the problem or if they just have such a
overstressed immune system.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20104 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
It appears, in your aquarium conditions, that the tetracycline is
just not quite effective enough to promote a complete cure. If your
pH is 7.5 or above, tetracycline loses its effectiveness (especially
in hard water) as it binds with the calcium and magnesium in these
conditions. You might try re-treating with oxytetracycline or Furan
II (nitrofurazone). While oxytetracycline will also lose its
effectiveness in hard water, it will not do so until the pH reaches
8.0 and above. Furan II also starts losing its effectiveness in a
high pH. If your water is especially hard and alkaline, try triple-
sulfa instead as it remains effective in high alkaline conditions and
is mainly effective against gram-negative bacteria, of which
Columnaris (mouth fungus) is one. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> The rainbows that I purchased from Wal-Mart almost 2 months ago are
> still having problems.
> The white mouth continues to come back.
>
> I've treated w/ tetracycline and it cleared up. Their mouths were
raw
> where the fungus had eaten so I added melafix and pimafix to prevent
> further infection. This worked up to a point. One rainbow now has
a
> completely deformed mouth, with pieces of flesh hanging off of it.
> Despite the pimafix in the water, their is white growing on his
mouth as
> well as one other fish's.
>
> I've treated w/ first tetracycline (somewhat cleared), then with
fungus
> clear by jungle (again only somewhat cleared), then again w/ powder
form
> of tetracycline. The last treatment did the best and left only the
> scarring but then of course now their are 2 affected fish again.
>
> Is it possible that these fish came from bad breeding and are just
> "doomed" so to speak? I just can't see why this would continue to
come
> back time and time again, and in such short intervals. Are some
fish
> genetically defunct and not able to fight infection?
>
> Many thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20105 From: joe mihalich Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
causes could be bad stock, but, more than likely, it is where you
purchased them. how many times do you go into a department store and
walk by the fish tanks and see, at least a few, if not more, dead
fish floating in their tanks or laying on the bottom? i don't believe
they are taken care of as they would be in a local fish store that
sells nothing but fish and pets. and i don't believe that you should
ever have to use all of those chemical meds to treat a fish. the fish
should be put into a quarantine tank first to keep your other fish
from coming down with the same disease. all those chemicals can
change and damage your water perameters, which, in turn will damage
the fish. before i would ever use a chemical treatment, i would add a
bit of salt (for brackish water fish) to the tank and turn the temp
of the water up a few degrees. most freshwater fish need a bit of
salt in the tank anyway. so, try to quarantine if there are other
fish in the tank. then add a bit of salt according to the
directions . good luck






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> The rainbows that I purchased from Wal-Mart almost 2 months ago are
> still having problems.
> The white mouth continues to come back.
>
> I've treated w/ tetracycline and it cleared up. Their mouths were
raw
> where the fungus had eaten so I added melafix and pimafix to prevent
> further infection. This worked up to a point. One rainbow now has
a
> completely deformed mouth, with pieces of flesh hanging off of it.
> Despite the pimafix in the water, their is white growing on his
mouth as
> well as one other fish's.
>
> I've treated w/ first tetracycline (somewhat cleared), then with
fungus
> clear by jungle (again only somewhat cleared), then again w/ powder
form
> of tetracycline. The last treatment did the best and left only the
> scarring but then of course now their are 2 affected fish again.
>
> Is it possible that these fish came from bad breeding and are just
> "doomed" so to speak? I just can't see why this would continue to
come
> back time and time again, and in such short intervals. Are some
fish
> genetically defunct and not able to fight infection?
>
> Many thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20106 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
On Saturday 16 December 2006 02:43, Leslie & Dane wrote:
> The rainbows that I purchased from Wal-Mart almost 2 months ago are
> still having problems.
> The white mouth continues to come back.

What sort of rainbows?

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20107 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
That was done ages ago and it didn't work. Also, higher temps cause
bacteria to increase and progress more rapidly. That would make it
worse.

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of joe mihalich
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 2:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Genetically defunct fish?



causes could be bad stock, but, more than likely, it is where you
purchased them. how many times do you go into a department store and
walk by the fish tanks and see, at least a few, if not more, dead
fish floating in their tanks or laying on the bottom? i don't believe
they are taken care of as they would be in a local fish store that
sells nothing but fish and pets. and i don't believe that you should
ever have to use all of those chemical meds to treat a fish. the fish
should be put into a quarantine tank first to keep your other fish
from coming down with the same disease. all those chemicals can
change and damage your water perameters, which, in turn will damage
the fish. before i would ever use a chemical treatment, i would add a
bit of salt (for brackish water fish) to the tank and turn the temp
of the water up a few degrees. most freshwater fish need a bit of
salt in the tank anyway. so, try to quarantine if there are other
fish in the tank. then add a bit of salt according to the
directions . good luck

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> The rainbows that I purchased from Wal-Mart almost 2 months ago are
> still having problems.
> The white mouth continues to come back.
>
> I've treated w/ tetracycline and it cleared up. Their mouths were
raw
> where the fungus had eaten so I added melafix and pimafix to prevent
> further infection. This worked up to a point. One rainbow now has
a
> completely deformed mouth, with pieces of flesh hanging off of it.
> Despite the pimafix in the water, their is white growing on his
mouth as
> well as one other fish's.
>
> I've treated w/ first tetracycline (somewhat cleared), then with
fungus
> clear by jungle (again only somewhat cleared), then again w/ powder
form
> of tetracycline. The last treatment did the best and left only the
> scarring but then of course now their are 2 affected fish again.
>
> Is it possible that these fish came from bad breeding and are just
> "doomed" so to speak? I just can't see why this would continue to
come
> back time and time again, and in such short intervals. Are some
fish
> genetically defunct and not able to fight infection?
>
> Many thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20108 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Tim,
They are Boesemanis.
Poor things have been through hell. Today they went into a 75 gal
community. The one with the bad mouth is in quarantine though. We're
keeping an eye on them to see if their immune system kicks in or not.
We hope so. Otherwise I will do what Ray suggested and try the Furan 2.
~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Tim Fairchild
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Genetically defunct fish?



On Saturday 16 December 2006 02:43, Leslie & Dane wrote:
> The rainbows that I purchased from Wal-Mart almost 2 months ago are
> still having problems.
> The white mouth continues to come back.

What sort of rainbows?

tim

--
----------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
----------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@... <mailto:tim%40bcs4me.com>
Homepage http://www.bcs4me. <http://www.bcs4me.com> com
Photos http://www.pbase. <http://www.pbase.com/amosf> com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me. <http://bcs4me.com/blog> com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever> .org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
----------------------------------------------------------






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20109 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
On Saturday 16 December 2006 07:06, Leslie & Dane wrote:
> Tim,
> They are Boesemanis.
> Poor things have been through hell. Today they went into a 75 gal
> community. The one with the bad mouth is in quarantine though. We're
> keeping an eye on them to see if their immune system kicks in or not.
> We hope so. Otherwise I will do what Ray suggested and try the Furan 2.
> ~Leslie

The splendida here have had some mouth issues lately but I think they may have
injured or worn themselves out spawning. They seem to be coming good now.
I've had them for a couple of years and they are wild caught, but you can
still have these sorts of issues. I used to have many issues with them in the
past (had them 20 years ago) until I started using salt in the tank
(2g/litre)... But with these guys in the wild spend most of the year in
waterholes downstream with high mineral and some salt content. Even in the
local creeks they have all sorts of fungal problems when they swim upstream
in the wet season with all the fresh water... Some of the guys I have now
were not in great shape when I got them.

Hope your guys come good anyway...

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20110 From: Nedra Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank/Plus tear down due to
Hi! I wrote this group about strange little worm like creatures
almost a month ago and am glad to have someone open this discussion
as I still have a hospital tank with these little guys in it. Mine
are thin as a hair and only about 1/8-1/4" and they have a wierd way
of propelling themselves -- kindof like tubifex worms coiling into
an "s" and uncoiling fast. The tank has never had fish in it, but
was seeded from my main tank and I figure that's where they came
from. I went out on the web and think they may be some sort of free-
living nematode rather than the parasitic type cause they are
reproducing without a host. So I'm assuming that they are not
dangerous to fish??? Does that seem like a logical deduction?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Brownell"
<spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
>
> I am also tearing the tank down because I have a bit of an alge
problem
> and my pleco is not touching the gravel at all.
> My older brother suggested to me to take the gravel out and throw
it
> away as it is not good that you have so much in the tank and when
I
> went to scrap some off of the bottom part of the glass some of it
came
> off and he complained to me about how I am just putting the agle
into
> their water and that's not good for them.
> But when I did a little next to the gravel covered closest to the
glass
> they became clean again. Should I throw them out and put new
gravel in
> or just clean it with the gravel debris as usual and let it go at
that?
> I am going to get new gravel tomorrow and plan on a day when I am
able
> to have help in tearing it down. I don't have a hospital tank to
place
> them in so I am using one of my water buckets to house them in
till the
> tear down is completed and the tank refilled. I may put more
plants in
> this tank of the plastic kind since I am not that good at getting
the
> real plants to grow, they mainly end up dying or going moldy on me.
>
> Beth
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20111 From: Nedra Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?
I have one 3 " Pleco in a tank with two comet goldfish. The tank has
lots of live Amazon swords and big pieces of driftwood. A few weeks
ago, I noticed one of the comets had a light spot on his side, but
thought he may have just scraped against the driftwood or something.
Now he's sporting lots of lighter spots, some of them very disk
shaped! It looks very similar to the damage caused to the mucus coat
of discus by a Chinese Algae Eater -- and I was advised to get a Pleco
for my algae control because they weren't known to do this.
Anybody out there have this experience with Pleco's?

BTW, I've never seen him show any interest in the fish when I'm
observing the tank. And the comets are perfectly healthy despite the
light spots.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20112 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Angel eggs??
Well, I was sitting here at my computer tonight and I noticed that there
were tiny eggs layed up and down the outside of the pipe of my filter. My 2
angels were swimming close to it as if trying to protect it. My marbled one
that's bigger, was rubbing its belly against the eggs and I noticed some substance
being released. Wow!! When does one ever get to see such a miracle as this!!
Now I know why my 2 angels were always aggressive with each other. they were
a couple. Makes sense now. lolol




Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20113 From: anne carrera Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?
Yes they do and once they get a taste for slimecoat its hard to stop them we won't discuss the damage the rasping teeth can do in a short period of time-Anne

Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote: I have one 3 " Pleco in a tank with two comet goldfish. The tank has
lots of live Amazon swords and big pieces of driftwood. A few weeks
ago, I noticed one of the comets had a light spot on his side, but
thought he may have just scraped against the driftwood or something.
Now he's sporting lots of lighter spots, some of them very disk
shaped! It looks very similar to the damage caused to the mucus coat
of discus by a Chinese Algae Eater -- and I was advised to get a Pleco
for my algae control because they weren't known to do this.
Anybody out there have this experience with Pleco's?

BTW, I've never seen him show any interest in the fish when I'm
observing the tank. And the comets are perfectly healthy despite the
light spots.





__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20114 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Hi Karen congrats on your angels eggs good luck with them.


----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 12:48:16 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Angel eggs??

Well, I was sitting here at my computer tonight and I noticed that there
were tiny eggs layed up and down the outside of the pipe of my filter. My 2
angels were swimming close to it as if trying to protect it. My marbled one
that's bigger, was rubbing its belly against the eggs and I noticed some substance
being released. Wow!! When does one ever get to see such a miracle as this!!
Now I know why my 2 angels were always aggressive with each other. they were
a couple. Makes sense now. lolol



Seasons Greetings
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20115 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/15/2006
Subject: Re: Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?
Do you know what type of pleco it is?


----- Original Message ----
From: Nedra <terrierlover2002@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 7:15:08 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?

I have one 3 " Pleco in a tank with two comet goldfish. The tank has
lots of live Amazon swords and big pieces of driftwood. A few weeks
ago, I noticed one of the comets had a light spot on his side, but
thought he may have just scraped against the driftwood or something.
Now he's sporting lots of lighter spots, some of them very disk
shaped! It looks very similar to the damage caused to the mucus coat
of discus by a Chinese Algae Eater -- and I was advised to get a Pleco
for my algae control because they weren't known to do this.
Anybody out there have this experience with Pleco's?

BTW, I've never seen him show any interest in the fish when I'm
observing the tank. And the comets are perfectly healthy despite the
light spots.




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20116 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Leslie, Mouth fungus is one of those stubborn infections to get rid
of. While Furan 2 will effect a cure, as was recommended, if your pH
is 8.0 or above the treatment may be prolonged of necessity (due to
reasons already outlined) requiring additional doses. You have not
stated your pH; I'd suggest you test for it even if you don't post
it. If your pH is this high, the triple sulfa would be the better
way to go if your water is hard. Otherwise, the Furan 2 should do
the trick. The addition of even a nominal (1 Tsp per 5 gallons)
amount of salt during some treatments often aids in a cure, and
should help somewhat towards such a bacterial infection, even if not
essential in this instance. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> Tim,
> They are Boesemanis.
> Poor things have been through hell. Today they went into a 75 gal
> community. The one with the bad mouth is in quarantine though.
We're
> keeping an eye on them to see if their immune system kicks in or
not.
> We hope so. Otherwise I will do what Ray suggested and try the
Furan 2.
> ~Leslie
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Tim Fairchild
> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 2:36 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Genetically defunct fish?
>
>
>
> On Saturday 16 December 2006 02:43, Leslie & Dane wrote:
> > The rainbows that I purchased from Wal-Mart almost 2 months ago
are
> > still having problems.
> > The white mouth continues to come back.
>
> What sort of rainbows?
>
> tim
>
> --
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Tim Fairchild
> Atchafalaya Border Collies.
> Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Email mailto:tim@... <mailto:tim%40bcs4me.com>
> Homepage http://www.bcs4me. <http://www.bcs4me.com> com
> Photos http://www.pbase. <http://www.pbase.com/amosf> com/amosf
> Blog http://bcs4me. <http://bcs4me.com/blog> com/blog
> Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia
>
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever> .org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20117 From: Heather Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Guppies are turning into to zombies!!!
We have one tank that is just fur guppies, and it seems that their
tails are mysteriously being eaten by something, while others slowly
turn white (as if cooked) from the tail going towards the spine....
Treated them last week with a antifungal/antibiotic, with no +
results...Have now moved them to a new tank and started a course of
tetrecycline... water is/was good, removed charcoal and all that stuff
any advise would be appreciated THANKYOU!!! :D
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20118 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Guppies are turning into to zombies!!!
When you say the treatment had no results, do you mean the tails did not
grow back or that the rotting continued? If the rotting (deterioration
of the fins/tails) is getting worse then you might check for fin
nippers. Are the fins shredded or are they sort of smooshing together?
Shredded would indicate a fin nipper. If that's the case, melafix works
very well for that.
What med did you use when you treated them?

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Heather
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 10:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Guppies are turning into to zombies!!!



We have one tank that is just fur guppies, and it seems that their
tails are mysteriously being eaten by something, while others slowly
turn white (as if cooked) from the tail going towards the spine....
Treated them last week with a antifungal/antibiotic, with no +
results...Have now moved them to a new tank and started a course of
tetrecycline... water is/was good, removed charcoal and all that stuff
any advise would be appreciated THANKYOU!!! :D








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20119 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Well, this morning I saw that the eggs are gone. They either got sucked up
into the filter, or someone ate them. My marbled is still pressing up against
the shaft of the filter tube as if they were still there. Sad. I hope she or
he learned not to lay them there. Does anyone know of Angelfish behavior in
this situation? I am very interested in learning about it.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20120 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
do you have any other place for them to lay eggs? A flat rock leaned up
against the glass or better yet large leaves like Amazons or something.
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 12:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Angel eggs??



Well, this morning I saw that the eggs are gone. They either got sucked
up
into the filter, or someone ate them. My marbled is still pressing up
against
the shaft of the filter tube as if they were still there. Sad. I hope
she or
he learned not to lay them there. Does anyone know of Angelfish behavior
in
this situation? I am very interested in learning about it.


Seasons Greetings
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20121 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Genetically defunct fish?
Thanks Tim. They are now in a 75 community tank at a friends house.
The one w/ the badly deformed mouth is in a qt tank and I'll be giving
her some Furan 2 to use on him.
Our pH here 7.2 and the tanks stay pretty consistent with that. (Saying
this for Ray more than anything.) =)
They are really so gorgeous so I do hope they come around.
Thanks again, =)
Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Tim Fairchild
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 4:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Genetically defunct fish?



On Saturday 16 December 2006 07:06, Leslie & Dane wrote:
> Tim,
> They are Boesemanis.
> Poor things have been through hell. Today they went into a 75 gal
> community. The one with the bad mouth is in quarantine though. We're
> keeping an eye on them to see if their immune system kicks in or not.
> We hope so. Otherwise I will do what Ray suggested and try the Furan
2.
> ~Leslie

The splendida here have had some mouth issues lately but I think they
may have
injured or worn themselves out spawning. They seem to be coming good
now.
I've had them for a couple of years and they are wild caught, but you
can
still have these sorts of issues. I used to have many issues with them
in the
past (had them 20 years ago) until I started using salt in the tank
(2g/litre)... But with these guys in the wild spend most of the year in
waterholes downstream with high mineral and some salt content. Even in
the
local creeks they have all sorts of fungal problems when they swim
upstream
in the wet season with all the fresh water... Some of the guys I have
now
were not in great shape when I got them.

Hope your guys come good anyway...

tim

--
----------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
----------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@... <mailto:tim%40bcs4me.com>
Homepage http://www.bcs4me. <http://www.bcs4me.com> com
Photos http://www.pbase. <http://www.pbase.com/amosf> com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me. <http://bcs4me.com/blog> com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever> .org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
----------------------------------------------------------






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20122 From: Linda Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: anchor worms?
I moved my tank from Ga to FL and reset it up. There was just guppies
in it for 10 years. My SIL took the gups. 55 gallon. Rock that they
sell at Walmart bottom was in it forever.
I didn't let the rock get dry while moving. So, when I set it back up,
it just went back to being itself. I did put in a new canister
filtration I love. I resealed it, too. Then added fish. Now I have
black "anchor worms" (Black?) and the fish are dying. This never
happened before. Black threads 1/4 inch long growing out of my baby
fish.
Went to LFS. They have nothing. Looked on the internet. LFS ordered
some meds. And medicated food. It will be in Tues.
I came home to read up on the internet. Found one site that said they
are sensitive to salt, so add 1 tablspoon per 5 gallons to get rid of
them?
H E L P!!
Linda
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20123 From: Heather Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Guppies are turning into to zombies!!!
When you say the treatment had no results, do you mean the tails did not
grow back or that the rotting continued? If the rotting (deterioration
of the fins/tails) is getting worse then you might check for fin
nippers. Are the fins shredded or are they sort of smooshing together?
Shredded would indicate a fin nipper. If that's the case, melafix works
very well for that.
What med did you use when you treated them?


LOL
I did not expect the tails to grow rite back, but the rotting seems to
continue, and is only affecting my feeder guppies and not my fancy
ones...I also have Hoover in there (Goldfish that vacs the floor) and
he has not shown any signs of it either.... Fins appear to almost be
melted away, again no heater...First med was Primafix,
antibiotic/antifungal x6days, now started tetracycline in a new tank
and seems to be a little improvement. Have broke down the "old" tank
and completly wiped down with salt and replaced half the gravel...
Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20124 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
there are a lot of places like that. but, there are other fish in there, I
am not worried about them breeding. My mollies did the same thing. I guess the
babies became food for other fish.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20125 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
sounds like. =) Mine laid eggs just the other day but before I could
get the leaf out of there they had all turned white and were of course
being eaten by mom.
You just never know what's going to happen I guess. hmm hmm hmm =)

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Morganawolf1@...
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 4:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Angel eggs??



there are a lot of places like that. but, there are other fish in there,
I
am not worried about them breeding. My mollies did the same thing. I
guess the
babies became food for other fish.


Seasons Greetings
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20126 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Angels lay their eggs on flat surfaces.


----- Original Message ----
From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 1:41:51 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Angel eggs??

Well, this morning I saw that the eggs are gone. They either got sucked up
into the filter, or someone ate them. My marbled is still pressing up against
the shaft of the filter tube as if they were still there. Sad. I hope she or
he learned not to lay them there. Does anyone know of Angelfish behavior in
this situation? I am very interested in learning about it.


Seasons Greetings
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20127 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/16/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
What Kind of fish are you putting in the tank? Are they still just guppies or did you buy some new fish? Anchor work are a pain I use to have to pull them off the goldfish when I was working at a LFS then treat with the salt becuase have the time there is other anchor worms with in the tank they are found in dirty gravel a lot of the time or can come from where ever your LFS would get there stock.

Linda <Linda_n_cooper@...> wrote: I moved my tank from Ga to FL and reset it up. There was just guppies
in it for 10 years. My SIL took the gups. 55 gallon. Rock that they
sell at Walmart bottom was in it forever.
I didn't let the rock get dry while moving. So, when I set it back up,
it just went back to being itself. I did put in a new canister
filtration I love. I resealed it, too. Then added fish. Now I have
black "anchor worms" (Black?) and the fish are dying. This never
happened before. Black threads 1/4 inch long growing out of my baby
fish.
Went to LFS. They have nothing. Looked on the internet. LFS ordered
some meds. And medicated food. It will be in Tues.
I came home to read up on the internet. Found one site that said they
are sensitive to salt, so add 1 tablspoon per 5 gallons to get rid of
them?
H E L P!!
Linda





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20128 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/17/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Karen, Joseph: Unless I'm reading your question wrong, it seems that
you're asking about Angelfish's behavior, post egg-eating period,
since you've already observed the type of surface where these fish
prefer to lay their eggs.

I would like to confirm what Joseph has indicated, in that Angelfish
prefer to lay their eggs on a flat surface (as opposed to uneven, or
undulating). This surface is generally inclined, often on a steep
angle to the horizontal, up to 90o (verticle), although usually of a
lesser degree. They often spawn on plant leaves growing on an angle,
or in breeding set-ups, on flat spawning slates place against the
side of the aquarium on a good angle. While they prefer to spawn on
a surface that appears to them as solid (opaque), the bane of many
Angelfish breeders is that these fish will just as soon spawn on
overflow or filtration tubes (rather than the removeable slate, as
they are not adverse to spawning on clear plastic tubing such as what
you have described.

Even though they (depending upon the pair) may decide to re-locate
the hatched wigglers to other surfaces at times, in general, once
they find an initial spawning surface to their liking they'll
continue to use it. What needs to be done in such circumstances is
to lean the slate up against the filter tube, so that they have no
other choice but to use the slate, since it now occupies the same
location as their chosen site. Years ago, we used to use glass
tubing filled with green sand for them to spawn on, which presumedly
immitated a heavy diameter near-vertical reed. I have had, on
extremely rare occassions, Angelfish spawnings deposited on the flat
horizontal surface of their slate-bottomed tanks, similar to the
method used by most other New-World Cichlid substrate spawners, but
this was few and far between.

The behavior of one (or both) of the parents to continue to "press up
against the shaft of the filter tube", in still attempting to fan the
eggs after the eggs are gone, and/or continue to guard the area is
typical behavior. While it may be obvious that the eggs are gone,
their parental behavior of caring for the eggs overwhelms any other
visual stimulation they may be receiving at this time. With
continued visual signals, this behavior slowly dissipates over the
next 24 hours. Incidentally, they very rarely press their bodies in
direct contact with the spawning surface when fanning the eggs; this
is where their elongated ventral fins come into play in judging the
slight distance they remain away from the immediate egg-covered
area.

At times, if and when the eggs have been eaten by either one of the
parents or other fish in a community tank situation, the other parent
may blame its partner (again, depending upon the pair) and can
severely beat up on its mate. In this case, much more subdued
lighting can defuse the situation more slowly. Happy Holidays, Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> Angels lay their eggs on flat surfaces.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "Morganawolf1@..." <Morganawolf1@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 1:41:51 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Angel eggs??
>
> Well, this morning I saw that the eggs are gone. They either got
sucked up
> into the filter, or someone ate them. My marbled is still pressing
up against
> the shaft of the filter tube as if they were still there. Sad. I
hope she or
> he learned not to lay them there. Does anyone know of Angelfish
behavior in
> this situation? I am very interested in learning about it.
>
>
> Seasons Greetings
> Karen
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20129 From: Linda Hodgens Date: 12/17/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chad Plum" <juggernaut121@...>


>>>>>>>What Kind of fish are you putting in the tank? Are they still just
>>>>>>>guppies or did you buy some new fish?

I put 2 clown loach, 3 catfish variety type fish (forget the real name), 6
Danios, 1 beta, 4 skirts, no guppies now. One snake looking fish eel thing.
I forget his name as well. I also put in 2 plants from the store, bad move.
Snails got introduced.

I think it came from the pet store, however, now, what do I do? I am
treating with salt. See if that helps, and if it does not, then I'll
dismantle and sterilize and set back up. What is the best sterilization?
Will chlorox do with anchor problems? and perhaps whole new bottom
material? How about this canister filter? Do I have to get all new
sponges/filtrations things? Where do you get those? Will Chlorox do damage
to the canister filter (I'm thinking O ring problems)?
TIA!
Linda
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20130 From: Bharath Tonse Date: 12/17/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
Hi Linda.
Right, salt is the right medicine.
Look up my website - www.geocities.com/bharath.tonse
U may contact me for further assistance.

Regards ------ bharath
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20131 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 12/17/2006
Subject: Re: Angel eggs??
Wow. thanks. The marbled (I guess female) is still guarding the area, but,
as you said, will dissapate in time. Thanks for the info.



Seasons Greetings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20133 From: iowakoi Date: 12/17/2006
Subject: High ammonia level
Please help me save my goldfish from chronic high ammonia levels.
They are acting mostly normal but have bloody fin tips mostly likely
brown blood diasese. Show few sother stress signs no other illness
etc.
I have a 150 gallon holding tank with 2 black moors about 3 inches
each , 6 goldfish ranging from 4-9 inches, and a 8 inch koi. It's
too many but just don't have anywhere else to put them. Already have
every tank in use and have even replaced the couch with a tank! Tried
using rubbermaids but lost 2 koi because they jumped out. No ammonia
spikes in the other tanks. No gravel inthe tank, my koi gets it stuck
in his mouth. .

Tank has been setup since mid oct. So it should have cycled already,
the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero, ph 7.6 (same as tap and
outside pond water). Temp ranges 68-72 degrees.
Feeding a pellet food 2 x daily but don't overfeed, they are really
hungry when they do get fed.

Using the following filters Cal 300 pump with sponge filter on the
intake and output sides, hang on the back whisper 300 gph filter
with biofilter foam that is 3 weeks old and never been rinsed in top
water new carbon pads last week, a marineland 400 gph filled with 26
oz Ammo Chips (new last week) and floss from my old outside pond
filter which I did not have problems with. Filters are rinsed
daily to remove solid waste but only in tank water until it rinses
clear empty the filters themselves to clean out the guk every week
again only in tank water. Having to do water changes everyday, have
had to do drastic changes this weekend because the local pet store
said not to do water changes this week because ammo chips absorb the
ammonia. And the ammonia was highest it's ever been which is why I
rarely listen to their advice but am willing to try anything to
help. Hate having to use chemicals so what else is there other than
water changes. What else can I do? Will try any suggestions. Please
email suggestions to iowakoi@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20134 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
"the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero"
You're nitrate should not be at 0. This would indicate that the tank is
not cycled yet.
Perhaps the media from the pond didn't do the trick. Can you add some
media from an indoor cycled tank? That might help the process move a
bit more quickly and safely.
I've not ever used ammonia chips so I have nothing to offer with that.
But I would add some media from a cycled tank other than the pond since
that didn't seem to work.

Can you not add the koi and some of these fish to the pond? Just
curious.

~Leslie


<http://www.ZainyZebra.com>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of iowakoi
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 9:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] High ammonia level



Please help me save my goldfish from chronic high ammonia levels.
They are acting mostly normal but have bloody fin tips mostly likely
brown blood diasese. Show few sother stress signs no other illness
etc.
I have a 150 gallon holding tank with 2 black moors about 3 inches
each , 6 goldfish ranging from 4-9 inches, and a 8 inch koi. It's
too many but just don't have anywhere else to put them. Already have
every tank in use and have even replaced the couch with a tank! Tried
using rubbermaids but lost 2 koi because they jumped out. No ammonia
spikes in the other tanks. No gravel inthe tank, my koi gets it stuck
in his mouth. .

Tank has been setup since mid oct. So it should have cycled already,
the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero, ph 7.6 (same as tap and
outside pond water). Temp ranges 68-72 degrees.
Feeding a pellet food 2 x daily but don't overfeed, they are really
hungry when they do get fed.

Using the following filters Cal 300 pump with sponge filter on the
intake and output sides, hang on the back whisper 300 gph filter
with biofilter foam that is 3 weeks old and never been rinsed in top
water new carbon pads last week, a marineland 400 gph filled with 26
oz Ammo Chips (new last week) and floss from my old outside pond
filter which I did not have problems with. Filters are rinsed
daily to remove solid waste but only in tank water until it rinses
clear empty the filters themselves to clean out the guk every week
again only in tank water. Having to do water changes everyday, have
had to do drastic changes this weekend because the local pet store
said not to do water changes this week because ammo chips absorb the
ammonia. And the ammonia was highest it's ever been which is why I
rarely listen to their advice but am willing to try anything to
help. Hate having to use chemicals so what else is there other than
water changes. What else can I do? Will try any suggestions. Please
email suggestions to iowakoi@yahoo. <mailto:iowakoi%40yahoo.com> com







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20135 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
In my opion you are feeding way to much I would only feed them every other day only once fish like that want to eat all the time with you feeding them so much they are making more waste and causing the ammonia levels

iowakoi <iowakoi@...> wrote: Please help me save my goldfish from chronic high ammonia levels.
They are acting mostly normal but have bloody fin tips mostly likely
brown blood diasese. Show few sother stress signs no other illness
etc.
I have a 150 gallon holding tank with 2 black moors about 3 inches
each , 6 goldfish ranging from 4-9 inches, and a 8 inch koi. It's
too many but just don't have anywhere else to put them. Already have
every tank in use and have even replaced the couch with a tank! Tried
using rubbermaids but lost 2 koi because they jumped out. No ammonia
spikes in the other tanks. No gravel inthe tank, my koi gets it stuck
in his mouth. .

Tank has been setup since mid oct. So it should have cycled already,
the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero, ph 7.6 (same as tap and
outside pond water). Temp ranges 68-72 degrees.
Feeding a pellet food 2 x daily but don't overfeed, they are really
hungry when they do get fed.

Using the following filters Cal 300 pump with sponge filter on the
intake and output sides, hang on the back whisper 300 gph filter
with biofilter foam that is 3 weeks old and never been rinsed in top
water new carbon pads last week, a marineland 400 gph filled with 26
oz Ammo Chips (new last week) and floss from my old outside pond
filter which I did not have problems with. Filters are rinsed
daily to remove solid waste but only in tank water until it rinses
clear empty the filters themselves to clean out the guk every week
again only in tank water. Having to do water changes everyday, have
had to do drastic changes this weekend because the local pet store
said not to do water changes this week because ammo chips absorb the
ammonia. And the ammonia was highest it's ever been which is why I
rarely listen to their advice but am willing to try anything to
help. Hate having to use chemicals so what else is there other than
water changes. What else can I do? Will try any suggestions. Please
email suggestions to iowakoi@...





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20136 From: lynne_laverty Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Water Hardness help please
Hi there. I'm new to the group and looking for some advice. We have a 300 litre tank and
until a few months ago kept tropical fish. We decided to move to a marine tank and have
done everything according to our local aquarium shops instruction but we (and they
somewhat) are stumped.

Our water in the tank is off the scale for GH readings - all our other readings are normal. We
use the sera tests and got to 40 drops with the gh test before we stopped. If we test our tap
water - its fine, we get about 7gh.

Here's the thing, initially we used red sea salt in the tank so we did a test last week and made
up a solution in a bown to the same salinity as our tank and as soon as we added the salt the
gh was off the scale so we figured it was the salt. However we then got instant ocean and
made up a bucket and exacly the same has happened?

Does anyone have any ideas? We do have two damsels and two hermit crabs in there at the
moment who are thriving, however we did lose a clown after a day but we're not sure if that
was the tank or just stress with moving from the petshop etc.

Any help would be appreciated.

Lynne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20137 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
Are the worms attaching to any of the fish? Salt is a good place to start

Linda Hodgens <Linda_n_cooper@...> wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chad Plum" <juggernaut121@...>

>>>>>>>What Kind of fish are you putting in the tank? Are they still just
>>>>>>>guppies or did you buy some new fish?

I put 2 clown loach, 3 catfish variety type fish (forget the real name), 6
Danios, 1 beta, 4 skirts, no guppies now. One snake looking fish eel thing.
I forget his name as well. I also put in 2 plants from the store, bad move.
Snails got introduced.

I think it came from the pet store, however, now, what do I do? I am
treating with salt. See if that helps, and if it does not, then I'll
dismantle and sterilize and set back up. What is the best sterilization?
Will chlorox do with anchor problems? and perhaps whole new bottom
material? How about this canister filter? Do I have to get all new
sponges/filtrations things? Where do you get those? Will Chlorox do damage
to the canister filter (I'm thinking O ring problems)?
TIA!
Linda





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20138 From: Linda Hodgens Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
yes, they are attached to the fish and killing them.
Thanks!
Linda

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chad Plum" <juggernaut121@...>

Are the worms attaching to any of the fish? Salt is a good place to start
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20139 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Well cut feeding to three times a week. Add biozym its not a chemical but beneficial bacteria. Def have to do the water changes. If you have a heater in there take it out or shut it off.


----- Original Message ----
From: iowakoi <iowakoi@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 10:07:24 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] High ammonia level

Please help me save my goldfish from chronic high ammonia levels.
They are acting mostly normal but have bloody fin tips mostly likely
brown blood diasese. Show few sother stress signs no other illness
etc.
I have a 150 gallon holding tank with 2 black moors about 3 inches
each , 6 goldfish ranging from 4-9 inches, and a 8 inch koi. It's
too many but just don't have anywhere else to put them. Already have
every tank in use and have even replaced the couch with a tank! Tried
using rubbermaids but lost 2 koi because they jumped out. No ammonia
spikes in the other tanks. No gravel inthe tank, my koi gets it stuck
in his mouth. .

Tank has been setup since mid oct. So it should have cycled already,
the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero, ph 7.6 (same as tap and
outside pond water). Temp ranges 68-72 degrees.
Feeding a pellet food 2 x daily but don't overfeed, they are really
hungry when they do get fed.

Using the following filters Cal 300 pump with sponge filter on the
intake and output sides, hang on the back whisper 300 gph filter
with biofilter foam that is 3 weeks old and never been rinsed in top
water new carbon pads last week, a marineland 400 gph filled with 26
oz Ammo Chips (new last week) and floss from my old outside pond
filter which I did not have problems with. Filters are rinsed
daily to remove solid waste but only in tank water until it rinses
clear empty the filters themselves to clean out the guk every week
again only in tank water. Having to do water changes everyday, have
had to do drastic changes this weekend because the local pet store
said not to do water changes this week because ammo chips absorb the
ammonia. And the ammonia was highest it's ever been which is why I
rarely listen to their advice but am willing to try anything to
help. Hate having to use chemicals so what else is there other than
water changes. What else can I do? Will try any suggestions. Please
email suggestions to iowakoi@yahoo. com




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20140 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: anchor worms?
you said they are smaller fish so it would be hard for you to pull the worms off. What I had to do with the goldfish I would use tweezer and pull the worm out and then put them in a tank with out worm and dose with salt the other way I learned to pull them was by using a blade get under the worm and using my finger nail and the blade I would pull the worm out out of the 55 fish that I did this to I only lost 4 all the rest healed up with in about 2 weeks time and were able to sell them after about a months time they where all in great health. I will take a look back to see what chemical we had to use on a batch that was really in bad condition and covered when they came from the supplier we ended up saving about 3/4 of them but we decide to send them back to the supplier and charged them for cleaning the fish up.

Linda Hodgens <Linda_n_cooper@...> wrote: yes, they are attached to the fish and killing them.
Thanks!
Linda

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chad Plum" <juggernaut121@...>

Are the worms attaching to any of the fish? Salt is a good place to start





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20141 From: Nedra Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?
Oh no! I didn't want to hear that from the first responder. And
sorry, I don't know what kind of Pleco -- just super ordinary -- not
bristlenose, or some of the flashy patterns you see -- just the
regular ol' Pleco variety that's been around for 30 years.
My lfs thought I should feed him more -- so I've been feeding him
the Hikari algae pellets every day. It's hard to tell if the comets
are suffering continued damage because they have so many little
scrapes on their sides already. And I know they're just comets, but
they have more personality than any fish I've ever owned -- very
interactive -- one even sticks her head clear out of the water past
her eyeballs to give kisses.... I know what you're thinking... crazy
fish lady...
So what does one do with a rogue Pleco that has developed a taste
for slime coats? And if I find a home for him, what do I control the
algae with?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> Do you know what type of pleco it is?
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Nedra <terrierlover2002@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 7:15:08 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus
off other fish?
>
> I have one 3 " Pleco in a tank with two comet goldfish. The tank
has
> lots of live Amazon swords and big pieces of driftwood. A few
weeks
> ago, I noticed one of the comets had a light spot on his side, but
> thought he may have just scraped against the driftwood or
something.
> Now he's sporting lots of lighter spots, some of them very disk
> shaped! It looks very similar to the damage caused to the mucus
coat
> of discus by a Chinese Algae Eater -- and I was advised to get a
Pleco
> for my algae control because they weren't known to do this.
> Anybody out there have this experience with Pleco's?
>
> BTW, I've never seen him show any interest in the fish when I'm
> observing the tank. And the comets are perfectly healthy despite
the
> light spots.
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20142 From: Nedra Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
Hi Beth,
My little worm like creatures must not be like yours, as mine are
brown and jerk through the current and they don't stick to the
glass, although they seem to gather in colonies on the floor of the
tank. But that could just be sediment --
Anyway, I bought 3 little platies and put them in the tank and
within the first hour, they had pretty much gobbled up all the
little worms. I don't see them anymore.

Hope you find out what yours are.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Brownell"
<spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
>
> They were spotted on the back of the tank. They are very small, no
> bigger than my fingernail. These worm like creatures are white and
they
> are not on my Angelfishes or my algeater. And I have not put in
any new
> decorations in my tank for over a year, so they didn't come on any
> decorations as they all get the dishwasher treatment when I got
them.
> I do not know what they are, so I am planning on tearing down my
tank
> completely and removing everything and getting rid of the
critters. I
> have no idea on how they got into my tank at all.
> So am I right about tearing down my tank and cleaning it
completely of
> these critters?
>
> Thanks,
> Beth
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20143 From: Joe Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "iowakoi" <iowakoi@...> wrote:
>
> Please help me save my goldfish from chronic high ammonia levels.
> They are acting mostly normal but have bloody fin tips mostly
likely
> brown blood diasese. Show few sother stress signs no other illness
> etc.
> I have a 150 gallon holding tank with 2 black moors about 3
inches
> each , 6 goldfish ranging from 4-9 inches, and a 8 inch koi.
It's
> too many but just don't have anywhere else to put them. Already
have
> every tank in use and have even replaced the couch with a tank!
Tried
> using rubbermaids but lost 2 koi because they jumped out. No
ammonia
> spikes in the other tanks. No gravel inthe tank, my koi gets it
stuck
> in his mouth. .
>
> Tank has been setup since mid oct. So it should have cycled
already,
> the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero, ph 7.6 (same as tap and
> outside pond water). Temp ranges 68-72 degrees.
> Feeding a pellet food 2 x daily but don't overfeed, they are
really
> hungry when they do get fed.
>
> Using the following filters Cal 300 pump with sponge filter on the
> intake and output sides, hang on the back whisper 300 gph filter
> with biofilter foam that is 3 weeks old and never been rinsed in
top
> water new carbon pads last week, a marineland 400 gph filled with
26
> oz Ammo Chips (new last week) and floss from my old outside pond
> filter which I did not have problems with. Filters are rinsed
> daily to remove solid waste but only in tank water until it rinses
> clear empty the filters themselves to clean out the guk every
week
> again only in tank water. Having to do water changes everyday,
have
> had to do drastic changes this weekend because the local pet store
> said not to do water changes this week because ammo chips absorb
the
> ammonia. And the ammonia was highest it's ever been which is why I
> rarely listen to their advice but am willing to try anything to
> help. Hate having to use chemicals so what else is there other
than
> water changes. What else can I do? Will try any suggestions.
Please
> email suggestions to iowakoi@...
>
Pick you up a bottle of prime,It will help with your ammonia. I used
it on my 30gal. reef tank when I tryed to put my horse in front of
the cart. Prime helped speed up the cycle on my tank quiet a bit.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20144 From: Joe Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "lynne_laverty" <lynne@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi there. I'm new to the group and looking for some advice. We
have a 300 litre tank and
> until a few months ago kept tropical fish. We decided to move to
a marine tank and have
> done everything according to our local aquarium shops instruction
but we (and they
> somewhat) are stumped.
>
> Our water in the tank is off the scale for GH readings - all our
other readings are normal. We
> use the sera tests and got to 40 drops with the gh test before we
stopped. If we test our tap
> water - its fine, we get about 7gh.
>
> Here's the thing, initially we used red sea salt in the tank so we
did a test last week and made
> up a solution in a bown to the same salinity as our tank and as
soon as we added the salt the
> gh was off the scale so we figured it was the salt. However we
then got instant ocean and
> made up a bucket and exacly the same has happened?
>
> Does anyone have any ideas? We do have two damsels and two
hermit crabs in there at the
> moment who are thriving, however we did lose a clown after a day
but we're not sure if that
> was the tank or just stress with moving from the petshop etc.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Lynne
>
I had the same problem when I was using Instant Ocean,along with a
low calcium level. I switiched to Oceanic salt and started using
ro/di water.
Now my dkh runs between 9 and 10 and cal. usually dont go below
350ppm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20145 From: Nedra Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
I'm confused by this statement:

"You're nitrate should not be at 0. This would indicate that the
tank is
not cycled yet." I thought 0 for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates was
the ideal state? So do you mean that once the ammonia gets high,
even in a fully cycled tank, you have to go through the entire
cycling process again? Or can you just do frequent and radical
water changes to get the ammonia down again? And use Prime to
reduce the toxic effect of the ammonia while you work with the water
changes?
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Leslie & Dane" <5moores@...>
wrote:
>
> "the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero"
> You're nitrate should not be at 0. This would indicate that the
tank is
> not cycled yet.
> Perhaps the media from the pond didn't do the trick. Can you add
some
> media from an indoor cycled tank? That might help the process
move a
> bit more quickly and safely.
> I've not ever used ammonia chips so I have nothing to offer with
that.
> But I would add some media from a cycled tank other than the pond
since
> that didn't seem to work.
>
> Can you not add the koi and some of these fish to the pond? Just
> curious.
>
> ~Leslie
>
>
> <http://www.ZainyZebra.com>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of iowakoi
> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 9:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] High ammonia level
>
>
>
> Please help me save my goldfish from chronic high ammonia levels.
> They are acting mostly normal but have bloody fin tips mostly
likely
> brown blood diasese. Show few sother stress signs no other illness
> etc.
> I have a 150 gallon holding tank with 2 black moors about 3 inches
> each , 6 goldfish ranging from 4-9 inches, and a 8 inch koi. It's
> too many but just don't have anywhere else to put them. Already
have
> every tank in use and have even replaced the couch with a tank!
Tried
> using rubbermaids but lost 2 koi because they jumped out. No
ammonia
> spikes in the other tanks. No gravel inthe tank, my koi gets it
stuck
> in his mouth. .
>
> Tank has been setup since mid oct. So it should have cycled
already,
> the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero, ph 7.6 (same as tap and
> outside pond water). Temp ranges 68-72 degrees.
> Feeding a pellet food 2 x daily but don't overfeed, they are
really
> hungry when they do get fed.
>
> Using the following filters Cal 300 pump with sponge filter on the
> intake and output sides, hang on the back whisper 300 gph filter
> with biofilter foam that is 3 weeks old and never been rinsed in
top
> water new carbon pads last week, a marineland 400 gph filled with
26
> oz Ammo Chips (new last week) and floss from my old outside pond
> filter which I did not have problems with. Filters are rinsed
> daily to remove solid waste but only in tank water until it rinses
> clear empty the filters themselves to clean out the guk every week
> again only in tank water. Having to do water changes everyday,
have
> had to do drastic changes this weekend because the local pet store
> said not to do water changes this week because ammo chips absorb
the
> ammonia. And the ammonia was highest it's ever been which is why I
> rarely listen to their advice but am willing to try anything to
> help. Hate having to use chemicals so what else is there other
than
> water changes. What else can I do? Will try any suggestions.
Please
> email suggestions to iowakoi@yahoo. <mailto:iowakoi%40yahoo.com>
com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20146 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of iowakoi
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 10:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] High ammonia level

Please help me save my goldfish from chronic high ammonia levels.
They are acting mostly normal but have bloody fin tips mostly likely
brown blood diasese. Show few sother stress signs no other illness
etc.
I have a 150 gallon holding tank with 2 black moors about 3 inches
each , 6 goldfish ranging from 4-9 inches, and a 8 inch koi. It's
too many but just don't have anywhere else to put them. Already have
every tank in use and have even replaced the couch with a tank! Tried
using rubbermaids but lost 2 koi because they jumped out. No ammonia
spikes in the other tanks. No gravel inthe tank, my koi gets it stuck
in his mouth. .

Tank has been setup since mid oct. So it should have cycled already,
the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero, ph 7.6 (same as tap and
outside pond water). Temp ranges 68-72 degrees.
Feeding a pellet food 2 x daily but don't overfeed, they are really
hungry when they do get fed.

Using the following filters Cal 300 pump with sponge filter on the
intake and output sides, hang on the back whisper 300 gph filter
with biofilter foam that is 3 weeks old and never been rinsed in top
water new carbon pads last week, a marineland 400 gph filled with 26
oz Ammo Chips (new last week) and floss from my old outside pond
filter which I did not have problems with. Filters are rinsed
daily to remove solid waste but only in tank water until it rinses
clear empty the filters themselves to clean out the guk every week
again only in tank water. Having to do water changes everyday, have
had to do drastic changes this weekend because the local pet store
said not to do water changes this week because ammo chips absorb the
ammonia. And the ammonia was highest it's ever been which is why I
rarely listen to their advice but am willing to try anything to
help. Hate having to use chemicals so what else is there other than
water changes. What else can I do? Will try any suggestions. Please
email suggestions to iowakoi@...



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20147 From: lynne_laverty Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
> I had the same problem when I was using Instant Ocean,along with a
> low calcium level. I switiched to Oceanic salt and started using
> ro/di water.
> Now my dkh runs between 9 and 10 and cal. usually dont go below
> 350ppm.
>

Thanks Joe

Is dkh the same as KH? If yes those levels are fine, they sit around 9. Its just the GH that is
high (I'm new to all these terms).

Lynne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20148 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
I'm sure I don't need to tell you that your heavy fish load has
overburdened any nitrogen cycle you may have had in this tank and
has thrown it out of balance. While, at this point, you will still
need some ammonia to help the nitrosomas multiply (which seems to be
the least of the problem), you will need to either physically and/or
chemically remove the excess ammonia for the benefit of the fish
until larger populations of both nitrosomas and nitrobacters can get
established in your filters, which it appears you're trying to
accomplish with water changes.

Until these populations of nitrifying bacteria can get established,
you will need to keep doing large water changes and checking your
water parameters to keep on top of things. You might consider adding
even more filtration for somewhat faster cycling (and ultimately
somewhat less water changing). You can never have too much
filtration (you can have too fast of a flow though).

I noticed you use of 26 oz. (qt. size container) of Ammo-Chips,
incorporated to help remove some of the excess ammonia. I especially
noticed you filled one of your filters with it LAST WEEK! Do you
think that now that part is DONE and that now the Ammo-Chips should
continue to remove ammonia without you doing anything more, ad
infitum? Ammo-Chips can be (and needs to be) recharged periodically,
and that period is in direct relation to the amount of ammonia still
remaining in solution (in the water column), to use them to their
optimum benefit. In the presence of a high amount of ammonia, the
charge of Ammo-Chips will be exhausted well within 48 hours, more
probably nearer 24 hours depending upon the remaining ammonia level
after this time period, which you've never indicated. If the ammonia
level has dropped during the time the Ammo-Chips were in use and has
since risen, this tells you not only is the system being overwhelmed
(which we know), but that the Ammo-Chips have ceased doing their job
with the charge they had. Ammo-Chips are recharged by removing them
from the filter and soaking them overnight in a ceramic or glass (non-
metalic) container of warm water to which salt (sodium chloride) has
been added at the rate of 4 Tablespoons per quart.

Normally, one cup of Ammo-Chips would be enough to maintain 500
gallons of water, but this fish load would seem to exceeed "normal."
I would suggest a second 26 oz. carton of Ammo-Chips to alternate
with, in between charging them, or purchasing a small bag of Ammo-
Rocks (usually for use in ponds) and a mesh media bag. While another
way to use Ammo-Chips is to maintain them as a long-term filter
medium, allowing a nitrifying bacteria culture to build up on it;
this is not the fastest way of making use of this product's
potential.

Although the product is occasionally used in this manner, I would not
recommend its use in this fashion in your situation (other filter
medias can be used for growing the bacteria), but if this is your
plan, consider the Ammo-Rocks also (they come in 3# and 10# bags) for
fast removal of ammonia if you don't want to use the Ammo-Chips for
this purpose. Place the bag of Ammo-Rocks on the bottom, near a
current, either from a large nearby airstone or the filter outflow.
These are to be recharged in the same manner. Note, that when using
either Ammo-Chips or Ammo-Rocks, DO NOT ever add salt to the aquarium
water. To do so will cause these products to release their take up
of ammonia right back into the aquarium.

On the Brown Blood condition, please note that the addition of salt
to the aquarium water will negate the effects of the Brown Blood
symptoms. Of course, as stated above, this is not to be used when
using Ammo-Chips (or Rocks). If, by chance, your water had a pH
below Neutral (7.0), your fish would not be endangered by Brown Blood
as any harmful ammonia would then convert to relatively harmless
ammonium. One last thing: try not to allow the temperature to reach
72o, where they will need more food, and try feeding more sparingly
if possible. Often, the fish may appear hungry while being fed, but
don't forget they tend to be gluttons and really may not need as
much. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "iowakoi" <iowakoi@...> wrote:
>
> Please help me save my goldfish from chronic high ammonia levels.
> They are acting mostly normal but have bloody fin tips mostly
likely
> brown blood diasese. Show few sother stress signs no other illness
> etc.
> I have a 150 gallon holding tank with 2 black moors about 3
inches
> each , 6 goldfish ranging from 4-9 inches, and a 8 inch koi. It's
> too many but just don't have anywhere else to put them. Already
have
> every tank in use and have even replaced the couch with a tank!
Tried
> using rubbermaids but lost 2 koi because they jumped out. No
ammonia
> spikes in the other tanks. No gravel inthe tank, my koi gets it
stuck
> in his mouth. .
>
> Tank has been setup since mid oct. So it should have cycled
already,
> the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero, ph 7.6 (same as tap and
> outside pond water). Temp ranges 68-72 degrees.
> Feeding a pellet food 2 x daily but don't overfeed, they are
really
> hungry when they do get fed.
>
> Using the following filters Cal 300 pump with sponge filter on the
> intake and output sides, hang on the back whisper 300 gph filter
> with biofilter foam that is 3 weeks old and never been rinsed in
top
> water new carbon pads last week, a marineland 400 gph filled with
26
> oz Ammo Chips (new last week) and floss from my old outside pond
> filter which I did not have problems with. Filters are rinsed
> daily to remove solid waste but only in tank water until it rinses
> clear empty the filters themselves to clean out the guk every
week
> again only in tank water. Having to do water changes everyday, have
> had to do drastic changes this weekend because the local pet store
> said not to do water changes this week because ammo chips absorb
the
> ammonia. And the ammonia was highest it's ever been which is why I
> rarely listen to their advice but am willing to try anything to
> help. Hate having to use chemicals so what else is there other than
> water changes. What else can I do? Will try any suggestions.
Please
> email suggestions to iowakoi@...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20149 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
Previous message was in error. Stay tuned for the real one if I get enough of a chance to sit down and finish it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 6:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] High ammonia level




\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of iowakoi
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 10:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] High ammonia level

Please help me save my goldfish from chronic high ammonia levels.
They are acting mostly normal but have bloody fin tips mostly likely
brown blood diasese. Show few sother stress signs no other illness
etc.
I have a 150 gallon holding tank with 2 black moors about 3 inches
each , 6 goldfish ranging from 4-9 inches, and a 8 inch koi. It's
too many but just don't have anywhere else to put them. Already have
every tank in use and have even replaced the couch with a tank! Tried
using rubbermaids but lost 2 koi because they jumped out. No ammonia
spikes in the other tanks. No gravel inthe tank, my koi gets it stuck
in his mouth. .

Tank has been setup since mid oct. So it should have cycled already,
the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero, ph 7.6 (same as tap and
outside pond water). Temp ranges 68-72 degrees.
Feeding a pellet food 2 x daily but don't overfeed, they are really
hungry when they do get fed.

Using the following filters Cal 300 pump with sponge filter on the
intake and output sides, hang on the back whisper 300 gph filter
with biofilter foam that is 3 weeks old and never been rinsed in top
water new carbon pads last week, a marineland 400 gph filled with 26
oz Ammo Chips (new last week) and floss from my old outside pond
filter which I did not have problems with. Filters are rinsed
daily to remove solid waste but only in tank water until it rinses
clear empty the filters themselves to clean out the guk every week
again only in tank water. Having to do water changes everyday, have
had to do drastic changes this weekend because the local pet store
said not to do water changes this week because ammo chips absorb the
ammonia. And the ammonia was highest it's ever been which is why I
rarely listen to their advice but am willing to try anything to
help. Hate having to use chemicals so what else is there other than
water changes. What else can I do? Will try any suggestions. Please
email suggestions to iowakoi@...



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20150 From: Joe Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "lynne_laverty" <lynne@...>
wrote:
>
>
> > I had the same problem when I was using Instant Ocean,along
with a
> > low calcium level. I switiched to Oceanic salt and started using
> > ro/di water.
> > Now my dkh runs between 9 and 10 and cal. usually dont go below
> > 350ppm.
> >
>
> Thanks Joe
>
> Is dkh the same as KH? If yes those levels are fine, they sit
around 9. Its just the GH that is
> high (I'm new to all these terms).
>
> Lynne
>
Yep,,KH is carbonate hardness DKH is just KH measured in german
degrees. Which test kit are you using?
Do you plan on keeping any corals? or fish only?
I'm kinda new at marine tanks myself,only been running salt since
July. Your also welcome to e-mail me with any questions to
yotehunter76@... I'm no expert but i'm always willing to
help when I can.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20151 From: Joe Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "lynne_laverty" <lynne@>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > > I had the same problem when I was using Instant Ocean,along
> with a
> > > low calcium level. I switiched to Oceanic salt and started
using
> > > ro/di water.
> > > Now my dkh runs between 9 and 10 and cal. usually dont go
below
> > > 350ppm.
> > >
> >
> > Thanks Joe
> >
> > Is dkh the same as KH? If yes those levels are fine, they sit
> around 9. Its just the GH that is
> > high (I'm new to all these terms).
> >
> > Lynne
> >
> Yep,,KH is carbonate hardness DKH is just KH measured in german
> degrees. Which test kit are you using?
> Do you plan on keeping any corals? or fish only?
> I'm kinda new at marine tanks myself,only been running salt
since
> July. Your also welcome to e-mail me with any questions to
> yotehunter76@... I'm no expert but i'm always willing to
> help when I can.
>
Also ,,,have you tested your calcium levels and ph? These just
came to mind. and how did you acclimate your clown?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20152 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: High ammonia level
I saw your message this morning on the way out to work--it was not delivered until early this morning, thanks to Yahoo!. I thought I would see what came in during the day prior to my answering.

Bloody streaks in goldfish fins are generally related to stress, most often stress caused by poor water quality, which is what you have. In the three week period since your initial setup, the cycle should have started, and you should be seeing higher nitrites--definitely not 0 ppm nitrites. At least not yet. A tank does not cycle by merely being set up. Ammonia must be introduced to it so that there is something to start the cycle with, something that the necessary bacteria can feed on. When the bacteria feed on ammonia, they convert it to nitrite. This would be indicated by the ammonia level stabilizing, then sinking, and nitrites building up. As this happens, the bacteria that feed on nitrite begin to increase and eventually stabilize that level and it too will start to fall. These bacteria will produce nitrate. The only way to remove nitrate, other than relying on anaerobic bacteria, is by the use of live plants, and/or water changes.

You already know that your tank is, or will shortly be, overstocked. Goldfish and koi require about 30 gallons of water per adult fish, with koi actually requiring more as they reach their full potential for size. (You are not likely to be very successful keeping a 36" fish in 30 gallons of water.)

As has been mentioned, you should cut back on the feeding. All fish are opportunistic feeders, or, as we would say abut humans, on the see-food diet--I see food, I eat it. The fish will do well on one feeding per day or even less, as has already been suggested.

Goldfish and koi are "dirty" fish. They do produce a lot of waste, chief among the waste is ammonia. Your cycle should have started by now, and you should have measurable nitrites in your tank. You mentioned that you have added a zeolite to the tank to control the ammonia, but it does not seem to be doing any good. The zeolite needs to be recharged regularly, and I don't recommend their use in a case like yours. You should also trash the carbon as well. It has a limited lifespan and it is very difficult to tell when that lifespan has ended.

One thing, and it is important, is that you have not told us how high your ammonia is. There is no measurement given. It would help us a lot if we knew where you are in that department.

To help negate the effect of the ammonia at this point in time, I'd recommend the use of Ultimate distributed by Hikari USA. Follow the directions. This will convert the ammonia to a non-toxic form and give the fish some relief while still allowing the bacteria to develop. (I know the marketing hype claims to remove ammonia, but this is not true.) Do note that you will not be able to use kits for testing ammonia that use Nessler reagents. Also, if you are doing dissolved oxygen testing, it will throw those readings off as well.

Your filter cleaning regimen is a good one, but, you do seem to be doing it quite often. You should not have to clean the filters but once a week or so. If they are getting dirty enough to slow the flow and need to be cleaned every day, well, your new feeding regimen should result in fewer cleanings.

\\Steve//

I would like to thank Snap who made the sending of the blank reply earlier this evening possible. Without his help, there would be no blank messages sent from this machine. scs

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of iowakoi
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 10:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] High ammonia level

Please help me save my goldfish from chronic high ammonia levels.
They are acting mostly normal but have bloody fin tips mostly likely
brown blood diasese. Show few sother stress signs no other illness
etc.
I have a 150 gallon holding tank with 2 black moors about 3 inches
each , 6 goldfish ranging from 4-9 inches, and a 8 inch koi. It's
too many but just don't have anywhere else to put them. Already have
every tank in use and have even replaced the couch with a tank! Tried
using rubbermaids but lost 2 koi because they jumped out. No ammonia
spikes in the other tanks. No gravel inthe tank, my koi gets it stuck
in his mouth. .

Tank has been setup since mid oct. So it should have cycled already,
the nitrite and nitrate levels are zero, ph 7.6 (same as tap and
outside pond water). Temp ranges 68-72 degrees.
Feeding a pellet food 2 x daily but don't overfeed, they are really
hungry when they do get fed.

Using the following filters Cal 300 pump with sponge filter on the
intake and output sides, hang on the back whisper 300 gph filter
with biofilter foam that is 3 weeks old and never been rinsed in top
water new carbon pads last week, a marineland 400 gph filled with 26
oz Ammo Chips (new last week) and floss from my old outside pond
filter which I did not have problems with. Filters are rinsed
daily to remove solid waste but only in tank water until it rinses
clear empty the filters themselves to clean out the guk every week
again only in tank water. Having to do water changes everyday, have
had to do drastic changes this weekend because the local pet store
said not to do water changes this week because ammo chips absorb the
ammonia. And the ammonia was highest it's ever been which is why I
rarely listen to their advice but am willing to try anything to
help. Hate having to use chemicals so what else is there other than
water changes. What else can I do? Will try any suggestions. Please
email suggestions to iowakoi@...



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20153 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: To rid of a CAE
I have a Chinese algae eater that has begun the slime sucking off my
cory cats.
Obviously he has the taste for this, he's being very aggressive in the
chase, so I can't put him in with anything else...can I?

Two problems:
Catching him...how do I do this?! It's a bow front and fairly heavy w/
plants.
What to do with him once I catch him? Can he be put in with anything
else? My only other tank is the 130 w/ blood parrots and angels. He
could go in there and either A. Suck on the fish or B. be fish food to
the Blood Parrots. But I don't want to risk him hurting anyone.

Thanks,
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20154 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
This probably has something to do with your tap water. Are you treating
the water in any way other than adding the marine mix? Are you and your
aquarium store on the same water supply?

If you are treating the water prior to mixing it up, what are you using
for treatment?

See if your aquarium shop can do a test for alkalinity.

It might be worth sending the Rea Sea guys an inquiry of this behavior
and find out what they might have to say. (Let us know the request and
answer if you do.)


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of lynne_laverty
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 9:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water Hardness help please

Hi there. I'm new to the group and looking for some advice. We have a
300 litre tank and
until a few months ago kept tropical fish. We decided to move to a
marine tank and have
done everything according to our local aquarium shops instruction but we
(and they
somewhat) are stumped.

Our water in the tank is off the scale for GH readings - all our other
readings are normal. We
use the sera tests and got to 40 drops with the gh test before we
stopped. If we test our tap
water - its fine, we get about 7gh.

Here's the thing, initially we used red sea salt in the tank so we did a
test last week and made
up a solution in a bown to the same salinity as our tank and as soon as
we added the salt the
gh was off the scale so we figured it was the salt. However we then got
instant ocean and
made up a bucket and exacly the same has happened?

Does anyone have any ideas? We do have two damsels and two hermit
crabs in there at the
moment who are thriving, however we did lose a clown after a day but
we're not sure if that
was the tank or just stress with moving from the petshop etc.

Any help would be appreciated.

Lynne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20155 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/18/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Clown?
My brother-in-law called me because I keep fish, but mine are freshwater. He
has 2-3 clowns in a Nano and they have been fine for 8 months. Over the past
4 weeks one has become increasingly lethargic and is not eating much. Now
the second one is starting to decline. His LFS has examined pictures and can
see no marks or parasites. Please help!



What info do you need?



_____

.


<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=8495157/grpspId=1705042752/msgId
=20154/stime=1166498540/nc1=4025369/nc2=2/nc3=3>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20156 From: Lynne Laverty Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Hi Steve

We are treating the tap water with Sera aquatan water conditioner
which they use in the aquarium store, but when we run tests on the
tap water they are fine. I am taking samples in today for the shop
to test also as well as the tests we have done. Our ph levels are
coming back well within the normal ranges, slightly on the low side
if anything, nitrates and amonia are fine too.

They have also contacted the Red Sea guys and are waiting to hear
back from them. Will let you know how that goes, and what the shop
comes up with when they test our water also.

Lynne


On 19 Dec 2006, at 03:15, Steve Szabo wrote:

> This probably has something to do with your tap water. Are you
> treating
> the water in any way other than adding the marine mix? Are you and
> your
> aquarium store on the same water supply?
>
> If you are treating the water prior to mixing it up, what are you
> using
> for treatment?
>
> See if your aquarium shop can do a test for alkalinity.
>
> It might be worth sending the Rea Sea guys an inquiry of this behavior
> and find out what they might have to say. (Let us know the request and
> answer if you do.)
>
> \\Steve//


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20157 From: Lynne Laverty Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Thanks Joe

We are using the Sera test kits. We dont plan on keeping corals in
the near future, just fish. The tank was really bought for my 3
year old son who is autistic as he adores watching fish, although its
something my hubby and I love also. PH is fine, calcium is a little
low. When we aclimatised our clown we left it in the bag in the
tank till the temps levelled and added in a wee bit of tank water at
a time, then did a freshwater dip before adding him to the tank.

Lynne


On 19 Dec 2006, at 02:41, Joe wrote:

> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@...> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "lynne_laverty" <lynne@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > > I had the same problem when I was using Instant Ocean,along
> > with a
> > > > low calcium level. I switiched to Oceanic salt and started
> using
> > > > ro/di water.
> > > > Now my dkh runs between 9 and 10 and cal. usually dont go
> below
> > > > 350ppm.
> > > >
> > >
> > > Thanks Joe
> > >
> > > Is dkh the same as KH? If yes those levels are fine, they sit
> > around 9. Its just the GH that is
> > > high (I'm new to all these terms).
> > >
> > > Lynne
> > >
> > Yep,,KH is carbonate hardness DKH is just KH measured in german
> > degrees. Which test kit are you using?
> > Do you plan on keeping any corals? or fish only?
> > I'm kinda new at marine tanks myself,only been running salt
> since
> > July. Your also welcome to e-mail me with any questions to
> > yotehunter76@... I'm no expert but i'm always willing to
> > help when I can.
> >
> Also ,,,have you tested your calcium levels and ph? These just
> came to mind. and how did you acclimate your clown?
>
>
>
> --
> This email has been verified as Virus free
> Virus Protection and more available at http://www.plus.net
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20158 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
I am not familiar with that product. Have you tried making a small batch
without using the conditioner?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lynne Laverty
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 3:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Water Hardness help please

Hi Steve

We are treating the tap water with Sera aquatan water conditioner
which they use in the aquarium store, but when we run tests on the
tap water they are fine. I am taking samples in today for the shop
to test also as well as the tests we have done. Our ph levels are
coming back well within the normal ranges, slightly on the low side
if anything, nitrates and amonia are fine too.

They have also contacted the Red Sea guys and are waiting to hear
back from them. Will let you know how that goes, and what the shop
comes up with when they test our water also.

Lynne


On 19 Dec 2006, at 03:15, Steve Szabo wrote:

> This probably has something to do with your tap water. Are you
> treating
> the water in any way other than adding the marine mix? Are you and
> your
> aquarium store on the same water supply?
>
> If you are treating the water prior to mixing it up, what are you
> using
> for treatment?
>
> See if your aquarium shop can do a test for alkalinity.
>
> It might be worth sending the Rea Sea guys an inquiry of this behavior
> and find out what they might have to say. (Let us know the request and
> answer if you do.)
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20159 From: Linda Hodgens Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Sick Clown?
Has he tested his water? He should testtesttest, and post the results too.
What has he been feeding them?
Linda

----- Original Message -----
From: "Donna Ransome" <djransome@...>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Sick Clown?


> My brother-in-law called me because I keep fish, but mine are freshwater.
> He
> has 2-3 clowns in a Nano and they have been fine for 8 months. Over the
> past
> 4 weeks one has become increasingly lethargic and is not eating much. Now
> the second one is starting to decline. His LFS has examined pictures and
> can
> see no marks or parasites. Please help!
> What info do you need?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20160 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Very strange worm like creatures in tank.
I didn't find anything about them so I got rid of them by doing three
days of using ICK medication and then finalized it with a complete
tear down of my tank, removing everything from the water and the
gravel to the decorations and the plants yesterday.
I placed the cleaned gravel and some new plastic plants in the tank
to make parts of it populated with plastic plants since I had only
one plant within that tank and one decoration within the tank itself.

Beth
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Nedra" <terrierlover2002@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Beth,
> My little worm like creatures must not be like yours, as mine are
> brown and jerk through the current and they don't stick to the
> glass, although they seem to gather in colonies on the floor of the
> tank. But that could just be sediment --
> Anyway, I bought 3 little platies and put them in the tank and
> within the first hour, they had pretty much gobbled up all the
> little worms. I don't see them anymore.
>
> Hope you find out what yours are.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Brownell"
> <spencer_creek_studios@> wrote:
> >
> > They were spotted on the back of the tank. They are very small,
no
> > bigger than my fingernail. These worm like creatures are white
and
> they
> > are not on my Angelfishes or my algeater. And I have not put in
> any new
> > decorations in my tank for over a year, so they didn't come on
any
> > decorations as they all get the dishwasher treatment when I got
> them.
> > I do not know what they are, so I am planning on tearing down my
> tank
> > completely and removing everything and getting rid of the
> critters. I
> > have no idea on how they got into my tank at all.
> > So am I right about tearing down my tank and cleaning it
> completely of
> > these critters?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Beth
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20161 From: Joe Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I am not familiar with that product. Have you tried making a small
batch
> without using the conditioner?
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Lynne Laverty
> Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 3:29 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Water Hardness help please
>
> Hi Steve
>
> We are treating the tap water with Sera aquatan water conditioner
> which they use in the aquarium store, but when we run tests on
the
> tap water they are fine. I am taking samples in today for the
shop
> to test also as well as the tests we have done. Our ph levels
are
> coming back well within the normal ranges, slightly on the low
side
> if anything, nitrates and amonia are fine too.
>
> They have also contacted the Red Sea guys and are waiting to hear
> back from them. Will let you know how that goes, and what the
shop
> comes up with when they test our water also.
>
> Lynne
>
>
> On 19 Dec 2006, at 03:15, Steve Szabo wrote:
>
> > This probably has something to do with your tap water. Are you
> > treating
> > the water in any way other than adding the marine mix? Are you
and
> > your
> > aquarium store on the same water supply?
> >
> > If you are treating the water prior to mixing it up, what are
you
> > using
> > for treatment?
> >
> > See if your aquarium shop can do a test for alkalinity.
> >
> > It might be worth sending the Rea Sea guys an inquiry of this
behavior
> > and find out what they might have to say. (Let us know the
request and
> > answer if you do.)
> >
> > \\Steve//
>
Hey Lynne
Try this,, Mix up some water using ro/di water and let it set for
24 to 48 hours. Then test your alkalinity,ph,and calcium levels.
See what the levels are with the ro water,, but i'd lay money that
you got a bad batch of salt. I've never used red sea salt , so I
cant really say anything about that.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20162 From: iowakoi Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: update on high ammoina level
Thanks for all the input, they are doing better but not stablized yet.
Yes there are too many in the tank but can't do anything about it till
spring. Did put a few fish in the local paper to sell, sad to see them
go but need to save the best ones. Will recharge ammo chips today and
will try to every day or so. The brown steaks are gone. I am still
doing large water changes. Unplugged heater and cut the feeding. I'll
keep in touch. Thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20163 From: Melissa Laing Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: To rid of a CAE
See if the LFS will take him back - maybe exchange him
for a few ottos???
Melissa

--- Leslie & Dane <5moores@...> wrote:

> I have a Chinese algae eater that has begun the
> slime sucking off my
> cory cats.
> Obviously he has the taste for this, he's being very
> aggressive in the
> chase, so I can't put him in with anything
> else...can I?
>
> Two problems:
> Catching him...how do I do this?! It's a bow front
> and fairly heavy w/
> plants.
> What to do with him once I catch him? Can he be put
> in with anything
> else? My only other tank is the 130 w/ blood
> parrots and angels. He
> could go in there and either A. Suck on the fish or
> B. be fish food to
> the Blood Parrots. But I don't want to risk him
> hurting anyone.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
>

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20164 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/19/2006
Subject: Re: To rid of a CAE
haha...my LFS does not have ottos. They don't have squat actually. I
don't think they even know what an otto is.

I'm moving my tanks so I can probably catch him tomorrow when we drain
it. I'll either take him to the LFS and they can just have him or he
will get very, very cold and sleepy. I have a hard time taking him
there when I know someone will buy him for algae control and wind up
with a slime sucking killer. Something to ponder....

~L

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Melissa Laing
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 4:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] To rid of a CAE



See if the LFS will take him back - maybe exchange him
for a few ottos???
Melissa

--- Leslie & Dane <5moores@cebridge. <mailto:5moores%40cebridge.net>
net> wrote:

> I have a Chinese algae eater that has begun the
> slime sucking off my
> cory cats.
> Obviously he has the taste for this, he's being very
> aggressive in the
> chase, so I can't put him in with anything
> else...can I?
>
> Two problems:
> Catching him...how do I do this?! It's a bow front
> and fairly heavy w/
> plants.
> What to do with him once I catch him? Can he be put
> in with anything
> else? My only other tank is the 130 w/ blood
> parrots and angels. He
> could go in there and either A. Suck on the fish or
> B. be fish food to
> the Blood Parrots. But I don't want to risk him
> hurting anyone.
>
> Thanks,
> Leslie
>
>
>

__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20165 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Hello folks, I was wondering if you have an idea of what might be wrong with
my goldfish (oranda, about 3" long)

Last night I came home and noticed him on his right side at the bottom of
the tank. Now, it is not unusual for him to be at the bottom of the tank,
but usually when I tap he gets excited and starts swimming around. However,
he seems as though he is unable to right himself and attempts to swim around
but can't.

A couple of months ago this fish was attacked by a tankmate and lost his
left eye. He recovered, but I'm wondering if this has anything to do with
it.

He has no obvious signs of disease or parasites. I haven't changed anything
in the tank; nothing different about the food, water, etc. except that I
added a little pH buffer last night but that was after he started acting
weird. I added a bit of salt, but I don't want to put in antibiotics if
that's not what's needed.

Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20166 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
sounds like it could be swim bladder. do you feed floating food or sinking? If he is wanting to eat try froozen peas

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote: Hello folks, I was wondering if you have an idea of what might be wrong with
my goldfish (oranda, about 3" long)

Last night I came home and noticed him on his right side at the bottom of
the tank. Now, it is not unusual for him to be at the bottom of the tank,
but usually when I tap he gets excited and starts swimming around. However,
he seems as though he is unable to right himself and attempts to swim around
but can't.

A couple of months ago this fish was attacked by a tankmate and lost his
left eye. He recovered, but I'm wondering if this has anything to do with
it.

He has no obvious signs of disease or parasites. I haven't changed anything
in the tank; nothing different about the food, water, etc. except that I
added a little pH buffer last night but that was after he started acting
weird. I added a bit of salt, but I don't want to put in antibiotics if
that's not what's needed.

Emily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20167 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
I had been feeding floating since I have danios in the tank, but maybe I'll
switch if he gets better. Frozen peas??? That helps somehow?
Emily


On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> sounds like it could be swim bladder. do you feed floating food or
> sinking? If he is wanting to eat try froozen peas
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: Hello
> folks, I was wondering if you have an idea of what might be wrong with
> my goldfish (oranda, about 3" long)
>
> Last night I came home and noticed him on his right side at the bottom of
> the tank. Now, it is not unusual for him to be at the bottom of the tank,
> but usually when I tap he gets excited and starts swimming around.
> However,
> he seems as though he is unable to right himself and attempts to swim
> around
> but can't.
>
> A couple of months ago this fish was attacked by a tankmate and lost his
> left eye. He recovered, but I'm wondering if this has anything to do with
> it.
>
> He has no obvious signs of disease or parasites. I haven't changed
> anything
> in the tank; nothing different about the food, water, etc. except that I
> added a little pH buffer last night but that was after he started acting
> weird. I added a bit of salt, but I don't want to put in antibiotics if
> that's not what's needed.
>
> Emily
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20168 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
yes Frozen peas do nelp manily with GoldFish and they are healthy for them to What could have happened goldfish trying to eat food and taking in air instead and messes up there system the peas will help if this is what happened

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote: I had been feeding floating since I have danios in the tank, but maybe I'll
switch if he gets better. Frozen peas??? That helps somehow?
Emily

On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> sounds like it could be swim bladder. do you feed floating food or
> sinking? If he is wanting to eat try froozen peas
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: Hello
> folks, I was wondering if you have an idea of what might be wrong with
> my goldfish (oranda, about 3" long)
>
> Last night I came home and noticed him on his right side at the bottom of
> the tank. Now, it is not unusual for him to be at the bottom of the tank,
> but usually when I tap he gets excited and starts swimming around.
> However,
> he seems as though he is unable to right himself and attempts to swim
> around
> but can't.
>
> A couple of months ago this fish was attacked by a tankmate and lost his
> left eye. He recovered, but I'm wondering if this has anything to do with
> it.
>
> He has no obvious signs of disease or parasites. I haven't changed
> anything
> in the tank; nothing different about the food, water, etc. except that I
> added a little pH buffer last night but that was after he started acting
> weird. I added a bit of salt, but I don't want to put in antibiotics if
> that's not what's needed.
>
> Emily
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20169 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Should I just put some next to him on the bottom of the tank (if he's still
alive when I get home)?

Emily


On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> yes Frozen peas do nelp manily with GoldFish and they are healthy for
> them to What could have happened goldfish trying to eat food and taking in
> air instead and messes up there system the peas will help if this is what
> happened
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: I had
> been feeding floating since I have danios in the tank, but maybe I'll
> switch if he gets better. Frozen peas??? That helps somehow?
> Emily
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> > sounds like it could be swim bladder. do you feed floating food or
> > sinking? If he is wanting to eat try froozen peas
> >
> > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: Hello
> > folks, I was wondering if you have an idea of what might be wrong with
> > my goldfish (oranda, about 3" long)
> >
> > Last night I came home and noticed him on his right side at the bottom
> of
> > the tank. Now, it is not unusual for him to be at the bottom of the
> tank,
> > but usually when I tap he gets excited and starts swimming around.
> > However,
> > he seems as though he is unable to right himself and attempts to swim
> > around
> > but can't.
> >
> > A couple of months ago this fish was attacked by a tankmate and lost his
> > left eye. He recovered, but I'm wondering if this has anything to do
> with
> > it.
> >
> > He has no obvious signs of disease or parasites. I haven't changed
> > anything
> > in the tank; nothing different about the food, water, etc. except that I
> > added a little pH buffer last night but that was after he started acting
> > weird. I added a bit of salt, but I don't want to put in antibiotics if
> > that's not what's needed.
> >
> > Emily
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20170 From: Farscape Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Does anyone know if Pleco's suck the mucus off other fish?
Plecos can do that, but they have to "catch" a slow fish, usually, to do
it...

Try feeding the pleco "meatier" food, like some Shrimp Pellets, or even
something like sinking carnivorous wafers. -Naturally, this should be
fed WITH the algae discs, or, say, replace every 3rd feeding with these.

The common pleco needs veggies, so the carniv. wafers will not fill
their dietary needs if that's all you feed.

Some shrimp pellets will, however - to an extent, as they often contain
wheat and/or algae (spirulinia) as fillers.

Mine love the occasional treat of shrimp pellets, but if I feed nothing
but and then give algae discs, he'll ignore the pellets and go for the
discs, acting like the algae is a treat!


Nedra wrote, On 12/18/2006 11:48 AM:
> Oh no! I didn't want to hear that from the first responder. And
> sorry, I don't know what kind of Pleco -- just super ordinary -- not
> bristlenose, or some of the flashy patterns you see -- just the
> regular ol' Pleco variety that's been around for 30 years.
> My lfs thought I should feed him more -- so I've been feeding him
> the Hikari algae pellets every day. It's hard to tell if the comets
> are suffering continued damage because they have so many little
[Snip]
> So what does one do with a rogue Pleco that has developed a taste
> for slime coats? And if I find a home for him, what do I control the
> algae with?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20171 From: Farscape Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: To rid of a CAE
CAE's are a bit of a pain once they get to around 3"-3.5" or more...
Before that, I love the fact that they'll even go for black algae, which
nothing else will usually touch!

Your only choice for tank mates now is significantly faster or much
larger fish.

I had a CAE in a community tank once until it took to killing angels and
a Betta over their slime, after that he got tossed into my Oscar tank -
He tried to get their slime for a little while, but found out they'd go
after him and chase him a while, so he went back to grazing on the rocks
& glass after a few times jumping out of the tank trying to get away
from the mature Oscar pair (& pleco) that I had in there.

(Got rid of the jumping problem by putting on the back strip of the tank
top - something I didn't need to do with the other fish, but found it
did cut down on evaporation - cutting it for the filters & stuff was a
pain, though.)

Anyway, if you know of someone with a tank of large fish, or they have
extremely fast small fish, like Otos or Danios (a school of anything
fast, and nothing not fast other than a pleco or other armored fish),
they might be able to use your CAE.


CAE's are a pain to catch - it's easier if the tank is mostly drained
(only a few inches of water) and they have few or no decorations & tubes
to dart around... I've done it that way, using one net to chase the
bugger and a relatively stationary net (held) to chase him into.

A "fish catcher" device is also said to work well on CAE's, if you don't
mind the expense of it. (I've seen them for $20-$30 US.)


> --- Leslie & Dane wrote:
>
>> I have a Chinese algae eater that has begun the
>> slime sucking off my
>> cory cats.
>> Obviously he has the taste for this, he's being very
>> aggressive in the
>> chase, so I can't put him in with anything
>> else...can I?
>>
>> Two problems:
>> Catching him...how do I do this?! It's a bow front
>> and fairly heavy w/
>> plants.
>> What to do with him once I catch him? Can he be put
>> in with anything
>> else? My only other tank is the 130 w/ blood
>> parrots and angels. He
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20172 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
It may be worth it what other fish beside the danios are in the tank

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote: Should I just put some next to him on the bottom of the tank (if he's still
alive when I get home)?

Emily

On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> yes Frozen peas do nelp manily with GoldFish and they are healthy for
> them to What could have happened goldfish trying to eat food and taking in
> air instead and messes up there system the peas will help if this is what
> happened
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: I had
> been feeding floating since I have danios in the tank, but maybe I'll
> switch if he gets better. Frozen peas??? That helps somehow?
> Emily
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> > sounds like it could be swim bladder. do you feed floating food or
> > sinking? If he is wanting to eat try froozen peas
> >
> > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: Hello
> > folks, I was wondering if you have an idea of what might be wrong with
> > my goldfish (oranda, about 3" long)
> >
> > Last night I came home and noticed him on his right side at the bottom
> of
> > the tank. Now, it is not unusual for him to be at the bottom of the
> tank,
> > but usually when I tap he gets excited and starts swimming around.
> > However,
> > he seems as though he is unable to right himself and attempts to swim
> > around
> > but can't.
> >
> > A couple of months ago this fish was attacked by a tankmate and lost his
> > left eye. He recovered, but I'm wondering if this has anything to do
> with
> > it.
> >
> > He has no obvious signs of disease or parasites. I haven't changed
> > anything
> > in the tank; nothing different about the food, water, etc. except that I
> > added a little pH buffer last night but that was after he started acting
> > weird. I added a bit of salt, but I don't want to put in antibiotics if
> > that's not what's needed.
> >
> > Emily
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20173 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: To rid of a CAE
Thanks. We got him out.
I drained the tank for the move today and he was the last one we caught.
My friend has 3 others in her 150 along with large blood parrots and
other American cichlids, so hopefully he will do well in there.
Thanks for all the info...I'm glad it's over. They are HARD to catch!
Merry Christmas,
Leslie
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Farscape
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 2:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: TropicalFishEnthusiast@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: To rid of a CAE



CAE's are a bit of a pain once they get to around 3"-3.5" or more...
Before that, I love the fact that they'll even go for black algae, which

nothing else will usually touch!

Your only choice for tank mates now is significantly faster or much
larger fish.

I had a CAE in a community tank once until it took to killing angels and

a Betta over their slime, after that he got tossed into my Oscar tank -
He tried to get their slime for a little while, but found out they'd go
after him and chase him a while, so he went back to grazing on the rocks

& glass after a few times jumping out of the tank trying to get away
from the mature Oscar pair (& pleco) that I had in there.

(Got rid of the jumping problem by putting on the back strip of the tank

top - something I didn't need to do with the other fish, but found it
did cut down on evaporation - cutting it for the filters & stuff was a
pain, though.)

Anyway, if you know of someone with a tank of large fish, or they have
extremely fast small fish, like Otos or Danios (a school of anything
fast, and nothing not fast other than a pleco or other armored fish),
they might be able to use your CAE.

CAE's are a pain to catch - it's easier if the tank is mostly drained
(only a few inches of water) and they have few or no decorations & tubes

to dart around... I've done it that way, using one net to chase the
bugger and a relatively stationary net (held) to chase him into.

A "fish catcher" device is also said to work well on CAE's, if you don't

mind the expense of it. (I've seen them for $20-$30 US.)

> --- Leslie & Dane wrote:
>
>> I have a Chinese algae eater that has begun the
>> slime sucking off my
>> cory cats.
>> Obviously he has the taste for this, he's being very
>> aggressive in the
>> chase, so I can't put him in with anything
>> else...can I?
>>
>> Two problems:
>> Catching him...how do I do this?! It's a bow front
>> and fairly heavy w/
>> plants.
>> What to do with him once I catch him? Can he be put
>> in with anything
>> else? My only other tank is the 130 w/ blood
>> parrots and angels. He







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20174 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Just the goldfish and 3 danios.

On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> It may be worth it what other fish beside the danios are in the tank
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: Should I
> just put some next to him on the bottom of the tank (if he's still
> alive when I get home)?
>
> Emily
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> > yes Frozen peas do nelp manily with GoldFish and they are healthy for
> > them to What could have happened goldfish trying to eat food and taking
> in
> > air instead and messes up there system the peas will help if this is
> what
> > happened
> >
> > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: I had
> > been feeding floating since I have danios in the tank, but maybe I'll
> > switch if he gets better. Frozen peas??? That helps somehow?
> > Emily
> >
> > On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>
> <juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > sounds like it could be swim bladder. do you feed floating food or
> > > sinking? If he is wanting to eat try froozen peas
> > >
> > > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%
> 40gmail.com>> wrote: Hello
> > > folks, I was wondering if you have an idea of what might be wrong with
> > > my goldfish (oranda, about 3" long)
> > >
> > > Last night I came home and noticed him on his right side at the bottom
> > of
> > > the tank. Now, it is not unusual for him to be at the bottom of the
> > tank,
> > > but usually when I tap he gets excited and starts swimming around.
> > > However,
> > > he seems as though he is unable to right himself and attempts to swim
> > > around
> > > but can't.
> > >
> > > A couple of months ago this fish was attacked by a tankmate and lost
> his
> > > left eye. He recovered, but I'm wondering if this has anything to do
> > with
> > > it.
> > >
> > > He has no obvious signs of disease or parasites. I haven't changed
> > > anything
> > > in the tank; nothing different about the food, water, etc. except that
> I
> > > added a little pH buffer last night but that was after he started
> acting
> > > weird. I added a bit of salt, but I don't want to put in antibiotics
> if
> > > that's not what's needed.
> > >
> > > Emily
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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> >
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20175 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
what size tank is it

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote: Just the goldfish and 3 danios.

On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> It may be worth it what other fish beside the danios are in the tank
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: Should I
> just put some next to him on the bottom of the tank (if he's still
> alive when I get home)?
>
> Emily
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> > yes Frozen peas do nelp manily with GoldFish and they are healthy for
> > them to What could have happened goldfish trying to eat food and taking
> in
> > air instead and messes up there system the peas will help if this is
> what
> > happened
> >
> > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: I had
> > been feeding floating since I have danios in the tank, but maybe I'll
> > switch if he gets better. Frozen peas??? That helps somehow?
> > Emily
> >
> > On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>
> <juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > sounds like it could be swim bladder. do you feed floating food or
> > > sinking? If he is wanting to eat try froozen peas
> > >
> > > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%
> 40gmail.com>> wrote: Hello
> > > folks, I was wondering if you have an idea of what might be wrong with
> > > my goldfish (oranda, about 3" long)
> > >
> > > Last night I came home and noticed him on his right side at the bottom
> > of
> > > the tank. Now, it is not unusual for him to be at the bottom of the
> > tank,
> > > but usually when I tap he gets excited and starts swimming around.
> > > However,
> > > he seems as though he is unable to right himself and attempts to swim
> > > around
> > > but can't.
> > >
> > > A couple of months ago this fish was attacked by a tankmate and lost
> his
> > > left eye. He recovered, but I'm wondering if this has anything to do
> > with
> > > it.
> > >
> > > He has no obvious signs of disease or parasites. I haven't changed
> > > anything
> > > in the tank; nothing different about the food, water, etc. except that
> I
> > > added a little pH buffer last night but that was after he started
> acting
> > > weird. I added a bit of salt, but I don't want to put in antibiotics
> if
> > > that's not what's needed.
> > >
> > > Emily
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> __________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20176 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
15 tall. I think it's plenty large enough, because he is not a very large
goldfish. He lived in a 37 gallon for a long time before that. The tank
change was last month, but I used the same gravel and water so that
shouldn't have anything to do with it.
Emily


On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
what size tank is it
_,_._,___


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20177 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
do you do regular cleaning

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote: 15 tall. I think it's plenty large enough, because he is not a very large
goldfish. He lived in a 37 gallon for a long time before that. The tank
change was last month, but I used the same gravel and water so that
shouldn't have anything to do with it.
Emily

On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
what size tank is it
_,_._,___

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20178 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
yep.

On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> do you do regular cleaning
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: 15 tall.
> I think it's plenty large enough, because he is not a very large
> goldfish. He lived in a 37 gallon for a long time before that. The tank
> change was last month, but I used the same gravel and water so that
> shouldn't have anything to do with it.
> Emily
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> what size tank is it
> _,_._,___
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20179 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
from what you are saying it sounds like swim bladder. how often and how large are the water changes?

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote: yep.

On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> do you do regular cleaning
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: 15 tall.
> I think it's plenty large enough, because he is not a very large
> goldfish. He lived in a 37 gallon for a long time before that. The tank
> change was last month, but I used the same gravel and water so that
> shouldn't have anything to do with it.
> Emily
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> what size tank is it
> _,_._,___
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20180 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/20/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
Every couple of weeks, about 4 gal. Although I'm trying to get my system of
once a week back in gear.

On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> from what you are saying it sounds like swim bladder. how often and how
> large are the water changes?
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: yep.
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> > do you do regular cleaning
> >
> > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: 15 tall.
> > I think it's plenty large enough, because he is not a very large
> > goldfish. He lived in a 37 gallon for a long time before that. The tank
> > change was last month, but I used the same gravel and water so that
> > shouldn't have anything to do with it.
> > Emily
> >
> > On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>
> <juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> > wrote:
> > what size tank is it
> > _,_._,___
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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> >
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> >
> >
> >
>
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>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20181 From: Lynne Laverty Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Re: Water Hardness help please
Between us and the aquarium shop we've figured out the test was at
fault so we now have two very happy clown fish added to our tank two
days ago who are thriving also!

Thanks for the help

Lynne

On 19 Dec 2006, at 11:10, Steve Szabo wrote:

> I am not familiar with that product. Have you tried making a small
> batch
> without using the conditioner?
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife
>> .
>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20182 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
sounds like the system should be OK getting back to small water changes weekly will be nice SO how is the Goldfish

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote: Every couple of weeks, about 4 gal. Although I'm trying to get my system of
once a week back in gear.

On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> from what you are saying it sounds like swim bladder. how often and how
> large are the water changes?
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: yep.
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> > do you do regular cleaning
> >
> > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: 15 tall.
> > I think it's plenty large enough, because he is not a very large
> > goldfish. He lived in a 37 gallon for a long time before that. The tank
> > change was last month, but I used the same gravel and water so that
> > shouldn't have anything to do with it.
> > Emily
> >
> > On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>
> <juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> > wrote:
> > what size tank is it
> > _,_._,___
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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> >
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> >
> >
> >
>
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>
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20183 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
He's the same. He ate a raw pea; was I supposed to cook it? I might consider
euthanizing him if he doesn't get better. No fair for him to have to live
like that. I have fish anesthesia.
Emily

On 12/21/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> sounds like the system should be OK getting back to small water changes
> weekly will be nice SO how is the Goldfish
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: Every
> couple of weeks, about 4 gal. Although I'm trying to get my system of
> once a week back in gear.
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> > from what you are saying it sounds like swim bladder. how often and how
> > large are the water changes?
> >
> > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: yep.
> >
> > On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>
> <juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > do you do regular cleaning
> > >
> > > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%
> 40gmail.com>> wrote: 15 tall.
> > > I think it's plenty large enough, because he is not a very large
> > > goldfish. He lived in a 37 gallon for a long time before that. The
> tank
> > > change was last month, but I used the same gravel and water so that
> > > shouldn't have anything to do with it.
> > > Emily
> > >
> > > On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>
> <juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>
> > <juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> > > wrote:
> > > what size tank is it
> > > _,_._,___
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20184 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
no raw is the way to do it almost all green vegs are good for fish I feed mine cucumbers and zuchin all the time

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote: He's the same. He ate a raw pea; was I supposed to cook it? I might consider
euthanizing him if he doesn't get better. No fair for him to have to live
like that. I have fish anesthesia.
Emily

On 12/21/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> sounds like the system should be OK getting back to small water changes
> weekly will be nice SO how is the Goldfish
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: Every
> couple of weeks, about 4 gal. Although I'm trying to get my system of
> once a week back in gear.
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> > from what you are saying it sounds like swim bladder. how often and how
> > large are the water changes?
> >
> > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com>> wrote: yep.
> >
> > On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>
> <juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > do you do regular cleaning
> > >
> > > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@... <etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%40gmail.com><etenczar%
> 40gmail.com>> wrote: 15 tall.
> > > I think it's plenty large enough, because he is not a very large
> > > goldfish. He lived in a 37 gallon for a long time before that. The
> tank
> > > change was last month, but I used the same gravel and water so that
> > > shouldn't have anything to do with it.
> > > Emily
> > >
> > > On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...<juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>
> <juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>
> > <juggernaut121%40yahoo.com>>
> > > wrote:
> > > what size tank is it
> > > _,_._,___
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
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> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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> >
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20185 From: its a secret Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: how breed Silver Dollars?
Does anyone know how to breed Silver Dollars? How old do they need to
be before they are mature? I have a 50 gallon and 3 silver dollars, all
about 4-5 inches. They are currently in with other fish, 1 Pearl
Gourami, 1 XLg green barb, a stone cat, a blue ram, 2 cory cats, 1
Crown Tail Beta, and a spotted sailfin pleco. They all get along just
fine. They've established their hierarchy with surprisingly few battle
scars. I would really like to breed the silver dollars for fun. They
are very sensitive fish and I had to learn how to handle them
specifically. They, my whole tank, has been disease free and
B E A-UTIFUL for over two years now. I have not found any information
of the specifics of breeding silver dollars. Have a wonderful day! I
love fish. They're peaceful and relaxing.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20186 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Re: Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank
give him a chance with the greens he could just be constipated and the greens would help fix that.


----- Original Message ----
From: Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 12:54:19 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Goldfish laying on its side at the bottom of the tank

no raw is the way to do it almost all green vegs are good for fish I feed mine cucumbers and zuchin all the time

Emily Tenczar <etenczar@gmail. com> wrote: He's the same. He ate a raw pea; was I supposed to cook it? I might consider
euthanizing him if he doesn't get better. No fair for him to have to live
like that. I have fish anesthesia.
Emily

On 12/21/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> sounds like the system should be OK getting back to small water changes
> weekly will be nice SO how is the Goldfish
>
> Emily Tenczar <etenczar@gmail. com <etenczar%40gmail. com>> wrote: Every
> couple of weeks, about 4 gal. Although I'm trying to get my system of
> once a week back in gear.
>
> On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com<juggernaut121% 40yahoo.com> >
> wrote:
> >
> > from what you are saying it sounds like swim bladder. how often and how
> > large are the water changes?
> >
> > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@gmail. com <etenczar%40gmail. com><etenczar% 40gmail.com> > wrote: yep.
> >
> > On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com<juggernaut121% 40yahoo.com>
> <juggernaut121% 40yahoo.com> >
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > do you do regular cleaning
> > >
> > > Emily Tenczar <etenczar@gmail. com <etenczar%40gmail. com><etenczar% 40gmail.com> <etenczar%
> 40gmail.com> > wrote: 15 tall.
> > > I think it's plenty large enough, because he is not a very large
> > > goldfish. He lived in a 37 gallon for a long time before that. The
> tank
> > > change was last month, but I used the same gravel and water so that
> > > shouldn't have anything to do with it.
> > > Emily
> > >
> > > On 12/20/06, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ yahoo.com<juggernaut121% 40yahoo.com>
> <juggernaut121% 40yahoo.com>
> > <juggernaut121% 40yahoo.com> >
> > > wrote:
> > > what size tank is it
> > > _,_._,___
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > > http://mail. yahoo.com
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail. yahoo.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20187 From: Nedra Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: Thanks for the Pleco advise.
I've started feeding the goldfish the emerald banquet -- algae,
spirulina and shrimp type critters in a frozen cube -- it's so
messy, I had stopped feeding it -- well the mess of it gives the
Pleco a chance to scavage a little before the Comets gobble it all
up.
They are very fast swimmers, but I think he was attacking them in
the dark, when they were bedded down near the bottom at night.

We'll see if they start healing -- I'm amazed that they don't get
fungus or something with the damage he's done to their protective
coating. But they seem healthy and happy -- can't imagine why their
not totally stressed out by the anticipation of the prehistoric
monster attacking them in their beds every night!


> Plecos can do that, but they have to "catch" a slow fish, usually,
to do
> it...
>
> Try feeding the pleco "meatier" food, like some Shrimp Pellets, or
even
> something like sinking carnivorous wafers. -Naturally, this
should be
> fed WITH the algae discs, or, say, replace every 3rd feeding with
these.
>
> The common pleco needs veggies, so the carniv. wafers will not
fill
> their dietary needs if that's all you feed.
>
> Some shrimp pellets will, however - to an extent, as they often
contain
> wheat and/or algae (spirulinia) as fillers.
>
> Mine love the occasional treat of shrimp pellets, but if I feed
nothing
> but and then give algae discs, he'll ignore the pellets and go for
the
> discs, acting like the algae is a treat!
>
>
> Nedra wrote, On 12/18/2006 11:48 AM:
> > Oh no! I didn't want to hear that from the first responder.
And
> > sorry, I don't know what kind of Pleco -- just super ordinary --
not
> > bristlenose, or some of the flashy patterns you see -- just the
> > regular ol' Pleco variety that's been around for 30 years.
> > My lfs thought I should feed him more -- so I've been feeding
him
> > the Hikari algae pellets every day. It's hard to tell if the
comets
> > are suffering continued damage because they have so many little
> [Snip]
> > So what does one do with a rogue Pleco that has developed a
taste
> > for slime coats? And if I find a home for him, what do I control
the
> > algae with?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20188 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/21/2006
Subject: needing a new lid only question
Howdy ladies and gents.. I snapped my lid tonight when cleaning my tank..
now that I am over the madness that I felt I am wondering what to do.. I have
attempted to glue it a bit just to reinforce it.. I don't think it will hold
for very long. but I want to know if you can purchase just a lid for a 20 L is
what I think I have I know I had to cut into the back panel to make room for
the bigger filter I have. which is why I think it ended up breaking or maybe
they break on occasion.. its about 4 years old I would say.. But where can I
get a lid and do I have to get the light with it.. I would hate to have to
buy another when I have one that is working... thanks and happy holidays to you
all.. Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20189 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank
ok so my broken lid has me thinking how do other ppl deal with their lids
during tank cleanings.. I use a ( don't laugh) heal exfoliating which is like
a flat stick sorta to prop open the tank.. I cant take the lid off cause I
have a filer and 2 air stone hoses running up through it.. so how do you all do
it.. Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20190 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: needing a new lid only question
shannon you should be able to go to a LFS to get a lid If I was you I would buy the total glass type that you just have to attach a plastic strip that comes with it and cut into the plastic so you have a tight lid

agentscullyeyore@... wrote: Howdy ladies and gents.. I snapped my lid tonight when cleaning my tank..
now that I am over the madness that I felt I am wondering what to do.. I have
attempted to glue it a bit just to reinforce it.. I don't think it will hold
for very long. but I want to know if you can purchase just a lid for a 20 L is
what I think I have I know I had to cut into the back panel to make room for
the bigger filter I have. which is why I think it ended up breaking or maybe
they break on occasion.. its about 4 years old I would say.. But where can I
get a lid and do I have to get the light with it.. I would hate to have to
buy another when I have one that is working... thanks and happy holidays to you
all.. Shannon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20191 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: needing a new lid only question
You could just get some nice thick clear acrylic and cut it to fit, cut
it in half, lengthwise, and use a clear, durable tape as a hinge. It
doesn't look half bad, actually, and allows more light in from the top
than the traditional black and brown ones. Just drill a hole for your
finger to grab the opening lid, and cut out places for heaters and
filters.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20192 From: Beth Brownell Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank
Hi,

I take my lid off completely when I clean out my tank. My filter is on
the back and there is a space cut to allow the water to flow into the
tank and the line for the airstone that I have is tucked nicely behind
the filter's cascading waterfall. That way, I can get to the back parts
of the tank without problems. I also wash the underside of the lid so
it is clean too.
My lid gets this green film kind of like algea on it if I don't clean
it very often and it blocks the light from shining down on the fishes.

Beth
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, agentscullyeyore@... wrote:
>
> ok so my broken lid has me thinking how do other ppl deal with their
lids during tank cleanings.. I use a ( don't laugh) heal exfoliating
which is like a flat stick sorta to prop open the tank.. I cant take
the lid off cause I have a filer and 2 air stone hoses running up
through it.. so how do you all do it.. Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20193 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank
I wish I could get mine so that I could take it off... I guess I might be
able to change some stuff around.. I took wash the lid I just go through a lot
of towels in the process of doing it... I don't like any white residue or the
green algae on it either.. Shannon




Hi,

I take my lid off completely when I clean out my tank. My filter is on
the back and there is a space cut to allow the water to flow into the
tank and the line for the airstone that I have is tucked nicely behind
the filter's cascading waterfall. That way, I can get to the back parts
of the tank without problems. I also wash the underside of the lid so
it is clean too.
My lid gets this green film kind of like algea on it if I don't clean
it very often and it blocks the light from shining down on the fishes.

Beth








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20194 From: agentscullyeyore@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: needing a new lid only question
that is a good idea I might have to look into doing that.. thanks Shannon




You could just get some nice thick clear acrylic and cut it to fit, cut
it in half, lengthwise, and use a clear, durable tape as a hinge. It
doesn't look half bad, actually, and allows more light in from the top
than the traditional black and brown ones. Just drill a hole for your
finger to grab the opening lid, and cut out places for heaters and
filters.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20195 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Just a Quick Note
Hi all,

I wanted to take a few minutes and wish all of you who celebrate
Christmas a very Merry Christmas and to all of your "fin and shell
Family members," health and happiness, along with yourselves, for a
bright New Year. Fletcher my Betta, Janice my Livebearer, my three
Applesnails (Patti, Judy, and Mary) are all doing fine as are my
Trumpet Snails but, my darling wild snail named Hope, lost the fight to
live yesterday. She was a bit over six months old and was so tiny. I
wanted Her so much to make it and I did what I could. The water was
the right temp. and everything in the tank seemed ok but, well maybe
She just needed to go someplace else for the Holiday, despite the fact,
I wanted Her here. Have a great weekend everyone and I truly love
being in this group. Sincerely, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20196 From: Tiffany Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: mystery snail with mystery illness
i bought a blue mystery snail less than a year ago. its shell has
grown about 1/2 inch since then. the new growth is much thinner and
theres about 8 rings showing this growth. do you know what might be
wrong?
thank you
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20197 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: mystery snail with mystery illness
Possibly not enough calcium available to provide good shell growth?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20198 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: mystery snail with mystery illness
I may be wrong here but I believe that it needs more calcium in the tank and maybe Iodine as well.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: spoild313@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 9:01 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] mystery snail with mystery illness


i bought a blue mystery snail less than a year ago. its shell has
grown about 1/2 inch since then. the new growth is much thinner and
theres about 8 rings showing this growth. do you know what might be
wrong?
thank youRecent Activity
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20199 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: needing a new lid only question
The places that sell the thick acrylic often sell clear acrylic hinges. Get some acrylic cement with it and you could use them to hinge the top.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: agentscullyeyore@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: needing a new lid only question



that is a good idea I might have to look into doing that.. thanks Shannon

You could just get some nice thick clear acrylic and cut it to fit, cut
it in half, lengthwise, and use a clear, durable tape as a hinge. It
doesn't look half bad, actually, and allows more light in from the top
than the traditional black and brown ones. Just drill a hole for your
finger to grab the opening lid, and cut out places for heaters and
filters.

Recent Activity
10New Members
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Marine fish tank
Marine fish supply
Marine fish food
Sitebuilder
Build a web site
quickly & easily
with Sitebuilder.
Y! Toolbar
Get it Free!
easy 1-click access
to your groups.
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others..

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20200 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank
Mine are both glass and broken at the seams however I take them completely off and scrub both sides every time as they get green slime on the underside, so as someone else mentioned if i don't clean it my plants and fish don't get any light. All I do is turn off the filter, heater and air stone while I do this....

Cynthia

\----- Original Message -----
From: agentscullyeyore@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 3:32 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank


ok so my broken lid has me thinking how do other ppl deal with their lids
during tank cleanings.. I use a ( don't laugh) heal exfoliating which is like
a flat stick sorta to prop open the tank.. I cant take the lid off cause I
have a filer and 2 air stone hoses running up through it.. so how do you all do
it.. Shannon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20201 From: kimberly Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they told
Hello everyone, I recently started my goldfish tank again started
collecting them. Well over the past week my school of fish needed a
bigger tank so I bought a 29gall tank for them. Well my husband and
I have also always wanted an oscar since we have one at work and
love to watch him. so I went to walmart and bought an albino and a
tiger oscar. well they had some Red bellied Pacues in a tank by them
selves that were larger than their other pacus, They told me they
had gotten some adults by mistake in their shipments but since they
were the right size (not too small) to be put in with my babby 2.5
inch oscas I decided to buy the last 2 "adult" pacus they had, one
is about 3 inc and the other about 4inch. Now these 2 oscars and the
2 pacus are in a 10gallon tank. My husband and I decided to buy
babys now and in Jan we are going to buy a 55gal tank, I though big
enough for 2 oscars, 2 pacus, and a pleco. Well guess what I found
when I got home to learn a bit more about the pacus, "these are not
adults, and Im going to need something bigger than a 55gal tank"!!!

Ok I really like these guys and would love to give them the best
home I can, however I am not going to be able to afford a 200gal
tank, so my question is, Where can I find directions about making
your own tank? I have a really big area in my living room that I
could put one in if I can figure how to put one together.

Also I read on severel sites that they grow extreamly fast. how long
do I have before they outgrow a 55gal tank? just woundering how long
I have to build this tank I need.

One last question, how do you tame them? mine are very timmid but I
read severel places where people have tamed them and they will eat
from thir hands and such.

Would love any info anyone could give me.
Thanks Kimberly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20202 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank
I take the lids completely off and clean them. The lids do break, I broke
mine day 1. So instead of a hinged cover the the opening, I have a
removeable cover for the opening. I don't think they sell just the part
with the hinge.mine is made to be a set with the light.I think I would have
to buy the whole thing new.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of agentscullyeyore@...
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 3:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] how do you prop your lid up when cleaning your tank



ok so my broken lid has me thinking how do other ppl deal with their lids
during tank cleanings.. I use a ( don't laugh) heal exfoliating which is
like
a flat stick sorta to prop open the tank.. I cant take the lid off cause I
have a filer and 2 air stone hoses running up through it.. so how do you all
do
it.. Shannon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20203 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
I have read that due to the price of the materials, it is no longer cheaper
to make your own tank.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kimberly
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 7:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats
what they told me!!



Hello everyone, I recently started my goldfish tank again started
collecting them. Well over the past week my school of fish needed a
bigger tank so I bought a 29gall tank for them. Well my husband and
I have also always wanted an oscar since we have one at work and
love to watch him. so I went to walmart and bought an albino and a
tiger oscar. well they had some Red bellied Pacues in a tank by them
selves that were larger than their other pacus, They told me they
had gotten some adults by mistake in their shipments but since they
were the right size (not too small) to be put in with my babby 2.5
inch oscas I decided to buy the last 2 "adult" pacus they had, one
is about 3 inc and the other about 4inch. Now these 2 oscars and the
2 pacus are in a 10gallon tank. My husband and I decided to buy
babys now and in Jan we are going to buy a 55gal tank, I though big
enough for 2 oscars, 2 pacus, and a pleco. Well guess what I found
when I got home to learn a bit more about the pacus, "these are not
adults, and Im going to need something bigger than a 55gal tank"!!!

Ok I really like these guys and would love to give them the best
home I can, however I am not going to be able to afford a 200gal
tank, so my question is, Where can I find directions about making
your own tank? I have a really big area in my living room that I
could put one in if I can figure how to put one together.

Also I read on severel sites that they grow extreamly fast. how long
do I have before they outgrow a 55gal tank? just woundering how long
I have to build this tank I need.

One last question, how do you tame them? mine are very timmid but I
read severel places where people have tamed them and they will eat
from thir hands and such.

Would love any info anyone could give me.
Thanks Kimberly





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20204 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Hi Kimberly.

Walmart as well as most fish retailers need to STOP selling pacus as they get 24 inches long and almost as tall and can get larger than that. I am so glad you are researching your fish like you mentioned. I am also glad you are already looking into a larger tank for your fish right now, however when the Pacu reach full size their tank needs to be far larger than 200 gallons. 200 will be wonderful for the oscars, they will thrive in that size.
If you keep looking you can often pick up complete used 100 gallon setups for not a lot of money. 100 gallons would work great for a pair of oscars. check your local papers, craigslist.org, aquabid.com, and ebay. I buy most of my tanks used and spend less than a buck a gallon(personal spending limit).

I belong to another yahoo group AquariumBuilding@yahoogroups where the only topics are tank building or modifications for tanks. Very knowledgeable people and the best place to start.

As far as how long until they outgrow the 55, my bet is under a year. Both species grow very fast! The oscars can get up to a foot rather quickly and the pacus will start breaking your glass heaters at half that size. I lost two glass heaters in rapid succesion and switched to a stainless steel one which ended up being faulty and broke. My pacu also started to take bites out of the fins of the oscars. He also regularly rammed into other objects besides the heater. He would spook really easy and swim into decorations and get some pretty good cuts.

Oscar however are one of my favorite fish. They can be like puppies once they train YOU. They will beg for food and do anything they can to get your attention. Very personable as far as fish go. You can easily train them to take food out of your hand. They are always hungry even if food is coming right back out of their mouth. When you go to train them it will not take long for them to take pellet food right out of your finger tips. I had to make sure my lid was on the tank as they would come up out of the water when my hands were over the tank. I miss mine, someday I will have another tank with a pair.

Mike



-----Original Message-----
From: kimvoo2003@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they told me!!


Hello everyone, I recently started my goldfish tank again started
collecting them. Well over the past week my school of fish needed a
bigger tank so I bought a 29gall tank for them. Well my husband and
I have also always wanted an oscar since we have one at work and
love to watch him. so I went to walmart and bought an albino and a
tiger oscar. well they had some Red bellied Pacues in a tank by them
selves that were larger than their other pacus, They told me they
had gotten some adults by mistake in their shipments but since they
were the right size (not too small) to be put in with my babby 2.5
inch oscas I decided to buy the last 2 "adult" pacus they had, one
is about 3 inc and the other about 4inch. Now these 2 oscars and the
2 pacus are in a 10gallon tank. My husband and I decided to buy
babys now and in Jan we are going to buy a 55gal tank, I though big
enough for 2 oscars, 2 pacus, and a pleco. Well guess what I found
when I got home to learn a bit more about the pacus, "these are not
adults, and Im going to need something bigger than a 55gal tank"!!!

Ok I really like these guys and would love to give them the best
home I can, however I am not going to be able to afford a 200gal
tank, so my question is, Where can I find directions about making
your own tank? I have a really big area in my living room that I
could put one in if I can figure how to put one together.

Also I read on severel sites that they grow extreamly fast. how long
do I have before they outgrow a 55gal tank? just woundering how long
I have to build this tank I need.

One last question, how do you tame them? mine are very timmid but I
read severel places where people have tamed them and they will eat
from thir hands and such.

Would love any info anyone could give me.
Thanks Kimberly



________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20205 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Well Im siting here thinking of what I could do, and I just rememberd that I have 2 stock tanks that I do not use and if I figured right 2X2X8 foot would be 240 gallons. Now that would work I think but how would I put a stock tank in my house without looking trashy? maybe have to go to Sutherlands and brain storm.

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote: I have read that due to the price of the materials, it is no longer cheaper
to make your own tank.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kimberly
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 7:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats
what they told me!!

Hello everyone, I recently started my goldfish tank again started
collecting them. Well over the past week my school of fish needed a
bigger tank so I bought a 29gall tank for them. Well my husband and
I have also always wanted an oscar since we have one at work and
love to watch him. so I went to walmart and bought an albino and a
tiger oscar. well they had some Red bellied Pacues in a tank by them
selves that were larger than their other pacus, They told me they
had gotten some adults by mistake in their shipments but since they
were the right size (not too small) to be put in with my babby 2.5
inch oscas I decided to buy the last 2 "adult" pacus they had, one
is about 3 inc and the other about 4inch. Now these 2 oscars and the
2 pacus are in a 10gallon tank. My husband and I decided to buy
babys now and in Jan we are going to buy a 55gal tank, I though big
enough for 2 oscars, 2 pacus, and a pleco. Well guess what I found
when I got home to learn a bit more about the pacus, "these are not
adults, and Im going to need something bigger than a 55gal tank"!!!

Ok I really like these guys and would love to give them the best
home I can, however I am not going to be able to afford a 200gal
tank, so my question is, Where can I find directions about making
your own tank? I have a really big area in my living room that I
could put one in if I can figure how to put one together.

Also I read on severel sites that they grow extreamly fast. how long
do I have before they outgrow a 55gal tank? just woundering how long
I have to build this tank I need.

One last question, how do you tame them? mine are very timmid but I
read severel places where people have tamed them and they will eat
from thir hands and such.

Would love any info anyone could give me.
Thanks Kimberly

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20206 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Perhaps you could get some fabric and hang it from the top edgeof the tank to the edge of the floor to cover the metal of the stock tank? Could get some fishy fabric or whatever suits your fancy. I wanted to put a round stock tank in my garage but need the space for other projects.
Or landscaping bricks around the edge?
Hey maybe even paint the metal with a tropical fish theme?
Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: kimvoo2003@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they told me!!


Well Im siting here thinking of what I could do, and I just rememberd that I have 2 stock tanks that I do not use and if I figured right 2X2X8 foot would be 240 gallons. Now that would work I think but how would I put a stock tank in my house without looking trashy? maybe have to go to Sutherlands and brain storm.

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote: I have read that due to the price of the materials, it is no longer cheaper
to make your own tank.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kimberly
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 7:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats
what they told me!!

Hello everyone, I recently started my goldfish tank again started
collecting them. Well over the past week my school of fish needed a
bigger tank so I bought a 29gall tank for them. Well my husband and
I have also always wanted an oscar since we have one at work and
love to watch him. so I went to walmart and bought an albino and a
tiger oscar. well they had some Red bellied Pacues in a tank by them
selves that were larger than their other pacus, They told me they
had gotten some adults by mistake in their shipments but since they
were the right size (not too small) to be put in with my babby 2.5
inch oscas I decided to buy the last 2 "adult" pacus they had, one
is about 3 inc and the other about 4inch. Now these 2 oscars and the
2 pacus are in a 10gallon tank. My husband and I decided to buy
babys now and in Jan we are going to buy a 55gal tank, I though big
enough for 2 oscars, 2 pacus, and a pleco. Well guess what I found
when I got home to learn a bit more about the pacus, "these are not
adults, and Im going to need something bigger than a 55gal tank"!!!

Ok I really like these guys and would love to give them the best
home I can, however I am not going to be able to afford a 200gal
tank, so my question is, Where can I find directions about making
your own tank? I have a really big area in my living room that I
could put one in if I can figure how to put one together.

Also I read on severel sites that they grow extreamly fast. how long
do I have before they outgrow a 55gal tank? just woundering how long
I have to build this tank I need.

One last question, how do you tame them? mine are very timmid but I
read severel places where people have tamed them and they will eat
from thir hands and such.

Would love any info anyone could give me.
Thanks Kimberly

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20207 From: Teresa Date: 12/22/2006
Subject: Strange things living in my aquarium
Hi Everyone

I have these snail-slug looking things in my salt water tank and have
no idea what they are. I just know they seem to keep multipling. I
don't know if they are good or bad and how to get rid of them. Any
help would be appreciated. I added a photo album under Teresa's so
you can view them there.

Have a Merry Christmas!!
Thanks
Teresa in Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20208 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 12/23/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
So would 2 full grown pacus and a pleco be compfortable in one of those large round stock tanks?
I really like them, and they tell me when they are hungry by pacing back and fourth in the front of the tank. they chase each other but leave the other fish alone. My oscars are neet too but I really love these pecus they are so cool, I sure hope I can figure something out that I can afford to keep them happy. I sure love these little guys. I should have looked them up before I bought them but then I would not have got them and im glad I did. Just wish these were actually full grown. Oh well, live and learn.
Kimberly
Kimberly

Deenerz@... wrote:
Perhaps you could get some fabric and hang it from the top edgeof the tank to the edge of the floor to cover the metal of the stock tank? Could get some fishy fabric or whatever suits your fancy. I wanted to put a round stock tank in my garage but need the space for other projects.
Or landscaping bricks around the edge?
Hey maybe even paint the metal with a tropical fish theme?
Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: kimvoo2003@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they told me!!

Well Im siting here thinking of what I could do, and I just rememberd that I have 2 stock tanks that I do not use and if I figured right 2X2X8 foot would be 240 gallons. Now that would work I think but how would I put a stock tank in my house without looking trashy? maybe have to go to Sutherlands and brain storm.

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote: I have read that due to the price of the materials, it is no longer cheaper
to make your own tank.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kimberly
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 7:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats
what they told me!!

Hello everyone, I recently started my goldfish tank again started
collecting them. Well over the past week my school of fish needed a
bigger tank so I bought a 29gall tank for them. Well my husband and
I have also always wanted an oscar since we have one at work and
love to watch him. so I went to walmart and bought an albino and a
tiger oscar. well they had some Red bellied Pacues in a tank by them
selves that were larger than their other pacus, They told me they
had gotten some adults by mistake in their shipments but since they
were the right size (not too small) to be put in with my babby 2.5
inch oscas I decided to buy the last 2 "adult" pacus they had, one
is about 3 inc and the other about 4inch. Now these 2 oscars and the
2 pacus are in a 10gallon tank. My husband and I decided to buy
babys now and in Jan we are going to buy a 55gal tank, I though big
enough for 2 oscars, 2 pacus, and a pleco. Well guess what I found
when I got home to learn a bit more about the pacus, "these are not
adults, and Im going to need something bigger than a 55gal tank"!!!

Ok I really like these guys and would love to give them the best
home I can, however I am not going to be able to afford a 200gal
tank, so my question is, Where can I find directions about making
your own tank? I have a really big area in my living room that I
could put one in if I can figure how to put one together.

Also I read on severel sites that they grow extreamly fast. how long
do I have before they outgrow a 55gal tank? just woundering how long
I have to build this tank I need.

One last question, how do you tame them? mine are very timmid but I
read severel places where people have tamed them and they will eat
from thir hands and such.

Would love any info anyone could give me.
Thanks Kimberly

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20209 From: Joseph Reid Date: 12/23/2006
Subject: Re: Strange things living in my aquarium
It looks like a limpet type snail. They eat algae so they would be good for your tank.


----- Original Message ----
From: Teresa <trayers2001@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 1:06:58 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Strange things living in my aquarium

Hi Everyone

I have these snail-slug looking things in my salt water tank and have
no idea what they are. I just know they seem to keep multipling. I
don't know if they are good or bad and how to get rid of them. Any
help would be appreciated. I added a photo album under Teresa's so
you can view them there.

Have a Merry Christmas!!
Thanks
Teresa in Ohio




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20210 From: steve@familyszabo.com Date: 12/23/2006
Subject: A card from Steve
Dear AquaticLife,

Steve (steve@...) has sent you a Jacquie Lawson electronic greeting card.

Please click on the following link to see your card. If your e-mail program has not displayed this as a link, then please copy the following into the Address or Location bar of your Internet browser.

http://www.jacquielawson.com/viewcard.asp?code=1102276684255

Alternatively, please visit http://www.jacquielawson.com and select the Pick Up Card option in the menu. Then enter your card code, which is:

1102276684255

If you have any problem at all viewing your card, please click here:

http://www.jacquielawson.com/help_1.asp

If you do not wish to receive e-cards from jacquielawson.com, please click here:

http://www.jacquielawson.com/donotsend.asp

Our ref: JLC425544873-CS / 1102276684255
jacquielawson.com, PO Box 1567, Wedmore, Somerset BS28 4YD, United Kingdom.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20211 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/23/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Let's see here, an adult goldfish needs approximately 30 gallons of
water to do well. Depending on the variety of goldfish, the adult length
will be anywhere from 6" to 24" or better. You can keep them in a
smaller tank, increasing the size of the tank as they grow, but you are
probably better off starting them in a larger tank, and letting them
grow into it (sorta like clothes for kids <g>).

Now, you have thrown a couple of oscars into the mix. This presents a
couple of problems. First, oscars are tropical fish, not temperate fish
as are goldfish. They do need a higher temperature to do well. High
enough to make your goldfish uncomfortable. They are
carnivores--goldfish are basically vegetarians, but can eat a minimum of
meaty foods without ill effects--too much, however, and you'll start
having problems. Oscars are large fish. They can grow to 18', given the
chance. The only real similarity is that oscars are "dirty" fish, as are
the goldfish. Good filtration and a very good biological filter are
musts for both fish.

Assuming that what you have is actually a pacu, it will grow to 42+
inches. If it is really a piranha (nominally illegal to keep in most
states, but still available under such misnomers as "pacu", the size
they will reach is much smaller, between 8 and 13", depending on the
exact species you might have. So by any definition, the "pacus" you got
are not adults--probably just past the "cute" size where they can sell
them quickly to those who are unknowing about their eventual size, and
other aspects of their care. Nevertheless, both are tropical fish, and
would not do well in the same tank as the goldfish. If it is a pacu,
they are vegetarian omnivores, not a real designation, but they do eat
meaty stuff, but are basically vegetarian, so, not a good mix with the
oscars for feeding time. If it is really a piranha, they are carnivores
(witness the piranha scenes in the movies, and a funny, but serious
story told by Rosario LaCorte and the scar on his leg), but do eat some
veggies.

There are instructions on the web on building your own tank, and a quick
Google should bring a number of them up. The problem is that you do need
a certain amount of expertise to build such a tank so that it will last,
and not be likely to spring leaks. I have built tanks in the past, and
may do so in the future, and it is not a real easy thing to do--at least
for me. Using jigs to line things up and hold them in place temporarily
is a big help. It does take some practice to make leak-proof joints.
With the size you are talking about, you would probably want to use a
marine grade plywood for three of the sides and a cutout in the plywood
for the glass on the fourth side.

You'll also need to consider the weight of the tank, both by itself for
moving it to its final resting place--probably better to build it where
it will stand, and with the water and decorative items in it when
finished. Will your floors support such a weight?

I went up to http://www.glasscages.com to see what they had to offer. A
couple of 300 gallon tanks are listed here:

300 Gal. Tall 96 x 24 x 31 Tall $800
300 Gal . wide 96 x 30 x 25 tall $850

No weight is given, but you will need a few people to move it. The nice
thing about this company is that if you are near one of the sites where
they attend a show--reptile or fish--you can order the tank and pick it
up at the show. For the fish you have, I'd go with the wide, though it
you have a true red belly pacu, it will still have a problem turning in
that tank. If you build your own, you can make a wider tank to give the
pacu more turning room, and you probably would be able to build it for
less, if you do not count your own labor. Me, I'd probably buy the 300
and build my own stand to save money

If you do build your own tank, make sure the components will stand up to
the water pressure that will be present. You certainly do not want 2-300
gallons of water on your floor at 3 AM.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kimberly
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 7:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least
thats what they told me!!

Hello everyone, I recently started my goldfish tank again started
collecting them. Well over the past week my school of fish needed a
bigger tank so I bought a 29gall tank for them. Well my husband and
I have also always wanted an oscar since we have one at work and
love to watch him. so I went to walmart and bought an albino and a
tiger oscar. well they had some Red bellied Pacues in a tank by them
selves that were larger than their other pacus, They told me they
had gotten some adults by mistake in their shipments but since they
were the right size (not too small) to be put in with my babby 2.5
inch oscas I decided to buy the last 2 "adult" pacus they had, one
is about 3 inc and the other about 4inch. Now these 2 oscars and the
2 pacus are in a 10gallon tank. My husband and I decided to buy
babys now and in Jan we are going to buy a 55gal tank, I though big
enough for 2 oscars, 2 pacus, and a pleco. Well guess what I found
when I got home to learn a bit more about the pacus, "these are not
adults, and Im going to need something bigger than a 55gal tank"!!!

Ok I really like these guys and would love to give them the best
home I can, however I am not going to be able to afford a 200gal
tank, so my question is, Where can I find directions about making
your own tank? I have a really big area in my living room that I
could put one in if I can figure how to put one together.

Also I read on severel sites that they grow extreamly fast. how long
do I have before they outgrow a 55gal tank? just woundering how long
I have to build this tank I need.

One last question, how do you tame them? mine are very timmid but I
read severel places where people have tamed them and they will eat
from thir hands and such.

Would love any info anyone could give me.
Thanks Kimberly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20212 From: Aaron Date: 12/23/2006
Subject: Re: A card from Steve
Thank you that was great, where can I find those little hats for my
fish?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve@..." <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Dear AquaticLife,
>
> Steve (steve@...) has sent you a Jacquie Lawson electronic greeting
card.
>
> Please click on the following link to see your card. If your e-
mail program has not displayed this as a link, then please copy the
following into the Address or Location bar of your Internet browser.
>
> http://www.jacquielawson.com/viewcard.asp?code=1102276684255
>
> Alternatively, please visit http://www.jacquielawson.com and select
the Pick Up Card option in the menu. Then enter your card code, which
is:
>
> 1102276684255
>
> If you have any problem at all viewing your card, please click here:
>
> http://www.jacquielawson.com/help_1.asp
>
> If you do not wish to receive e-cards from jacquielawson.com,
please click here:
>
> http://www.jacquielawson.com/donotsend.asp
>
> Our ref: JLC425544873-CS / 1102276684255
> jacquielawson.com, PO Box 1567, Wedmore, Somerset BS28 4YD, United
Kingdom.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20213 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 12/24/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
The gold fish are in a seperet tank than the pacus and the oscars.
And I new I would have to upgrade the oscars into a bigger tank soon, I just was not expecting the pacues to get sooo big!
I think I will make an indoor pond out of a stock tank for the pacus, Our front room is built on a cement slab so should not have a problem holding the tank, thought about puting one along oneside and anouther tank along the otherside for the comet and koi goldfish. then leave my orandas and black moors in the 29gal, and the oscars in the 55 gal.
Or just look for a 100gal for the oscars insead of the 55 gal. should be able to remedy this situation in Jan when I look for a bigger tank.

Kimberly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20214 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/24/2006
Subject: Re: New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they
Even so, with the goldfish in teir own tank, it bears repeating that tropicals and goldfish should not be mixed.

Most likely, you will be OK with a slab under the tank, pool, whatever, but, I'd still doublecheck to see that the slab is up to the job. Water weighs about 8.5 pounds per gallon. For 200 gallons, that would be 200*8.5 or 1700 pounds. Figure out the area that is covered, and you can get a pound per square inch figure, which is how weight bearing materials are generally rated. The more area in contact with the weight bearing material, the less the load that has to be borne per square inch.

Also consider that pacus and oscars are not anything to write home about when viewed from the top. In fact, you may actually see very little of th epacus because they are designed to be all but invisible from the top. A normal oscar would prodvide the same view, but since you have an albino and a red, they may be more visible.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Sacred Wind Arabians
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 8:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New here, just bought "adult pacu" or at least thats what they told me!!

The gold fish are in a seperet tank than the pacus and the oscars.
And I new I would have to upgrade the oscars into a bigger tank soon, I just was not expecting the pacues to get sooo big!
I think I will make an indoor pond out of a stock tank for the pacus, Our front room is built on a cement slab so should not have a problem holding the tank, thought about puting one along oneside and anouther tank along the otherside for the comet and koi goldfish. then leave my orandas and black moors in the 29gal, and the oscars in the 55 gal.
Or just look for a 100gal for the oscars insead of the 55 gal. should be able to remedy this situation in Jan when I look for a bigger tank.

Kimberly


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20215 From: Rich Date: 12/24/2006
Subject: MERRY CHRISTMAS TO EVERONE!!!!!!!!
I WANT TO WISH MERRY CHRISTMAS TO EVERYONE AND YOUR PETS TOO.
BLESSINGS,RICH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20216 From: Tiffany Date: 12/27/2006
Subject: what is this fish called??
about 10 years ago my mom bought a worm looking fish. it was either a
very dark grey or it was back. i dont remember it having any fins. just
a big smile and large eyes. it used to climb out the back of the tank
and we'd have to throw it back in. anyone know what this was? i've
looked and looked on the web, but i cant seem to find anything. your
help would be so much apreciated.
thank you.
Tiffany

ps: this is my first aquarium.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20217 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/27/2006
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
That is not much to go by, but it could have been a weather loach or one
of the eel like fishes, of which there are several that may meet your
thin description. A time frame may also help, as it would knock out fish
that have been relatively recently introduced. Ws this 10 years ago, or
40 years ago? That would make a big difference in the availability of
some fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Tiffany
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 4:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] what is this fish called??

about 10 years ago my mom bought a worm looking fish. it was either a
very dark grey or it was back. i dont remember it having any fins. just
a big smile and large eyes. it used to climb out the back of the tank
and we'd have to throw it back in. anyone know what this was? i've
looked and looked on the web, but i cant seem to find anything. your
help would be so much apreciated.
thank you.
Tiffany

ps: this is my first aquarium.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20218 From: dwand4kids Date: 12/27/2006
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
Google "rope fish", and see if that's it. I was going to buy one ($20
at my local fish store), but read that it's an escape artist, and
couldn't risk that much money. Also, my tank is only 30 gallons.
Everything I read said it needed 50 gallons or more, although my LFS
said it would be all right in my 30g.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Tiffany" <spoild313@...> wrote:
>
> about 10 years ago my mom bought a worm looking fish. it was either a
> very dark grey or it was back. i dont remember it having any fins.
just
> a big smile and large eyes. it used to climb out the back of the tank
> and we'd have to throw it back in. anyone know what this was? i've
> looked and looked on the web, but i cant seem to find anything. your
> help would be so much apreciated.
> thank you.
> Tiffany
>
> ps: this is my first aquarium.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20219 From: joe mihalich Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
it is called a dragon goby







--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Tiffany" <spoild313@...> wrote:
>
> about 10 years ago my mom bought a worm looking fish. it was either a
> very dark grey or it was back. i dont remember it having any fins.
just
> a big smile and large eyes. it used to climb out the back of the tank
> and we'd have to throw it back in. anyone know what this was? i've
> looked and looked on the web, but i cant seem to find anything. your
> help would be so much apreciated.
> thank you.
> Tiffany
>
> ps: this is my first aquarium.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20220 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: How much is too much
Water change for tanks? I've been doing a 20-50% water change on my
spawn tanks every day lately to power grow my fry. I know in uncycled
tanks it is acceptable to do 100% water changes for this purpose, but
I'm not quite to that stage yet. Still, how much can you change the
water without upsetting the cycle?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20221 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: Re: How much is too much
I would be doing the smaller end of the scale more like10% depending on how large the tank is

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: Water change for tanks? I've been doing a 20-50% water change on my
spawn tanks every day lately to power grow my fry. I know in uncycled
tanks it is acceptable to do 100% water changes for this purpose, but
I'm not quite to that stage yet. Still, how much can you change the
water without upsetting the cycle?





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20222 From: dwand4kids Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
I have a dragon goby. It's grayish/blue. It's eyes are really small
(they're almost blind), not large. It spends most of it's time
hiding, and I've never seen it at the top of my aquarium, much
less "climbing" out of it.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "joe mihalich" <joemax@...> wrote:
>
> it is called a dragon goby
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Tiffany" <spoild313@> wrote:
> >
> > about 10 years ago my mom bought a worm looking fish. it was
either a
> > very dark grey or it was back. i dont remember it having any
fins.
> just
> > a big smile and large eyes. it used to climb out the back of the
tank
> > and we'd have to throw it back in. anyone know what this was?
i've
> > looked and looked on the web, but i cant seem to find anything.
your
> > help would be so much apreciated.
> > thank you.
> > Tiffany
> >
> > ps: this is my first aquarium.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20223 From: marian81660 Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: A treatment for fin rot
I have a lion head goldfish that appears to have fin rot. He is in a
10 gallon tank with another lion head that I got at the same time.
What is a good treatment for this. I have salt in the tank and all of
the water peramiters are good.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20224 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
do you have more of a description of this fish do you look into the Ropefish is it snake like very little info to go by to help you out

dwand4kids <donhelms@...> wrote: I have a dragon goby. It's grayish/blue. It's eyes are really small
(they're almost blind), not large. It spends most of it's time
hiding, and I've never seen it at the top of my aquarium, much
less "climbing" out of it.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "joe mihalich" <joemax@...> wrote:
>
> it is called a dragon goby
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Tiffany" <spoild313@> wrote:
> >
> > about 10 years ago my mom bought a worm looking fish. it was
either a
> > very dark grey or it was back. i dont remember it having any
fins.
> just
> > a big smile and large eyes. it used to climb out the back of the
tank
> > and we'd have to throw it back in. anyone know what this was?
i've
> > looked and looked on the web, but i cant seem to find anything.
your
> > help would be so much apreciated.
> > thank you.
> > Tiffany
> >
> > ps: this is my first aquarium.
> >
>





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20225 From: marjoriesseedling Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: DENNERLE GROWING SYSTEM - ANY FANS?
I am a newby, considering bidding on a 6ft tank on ebay. It includes a
DENNERLE GROWING SYSTEM. I have never heard of this but assume it
enhances and maintains the water quality. Does any body have any
experience of this system. I am particularly interested in the running
costs and do not want to get something I cant afford to run, although
I assume I can run it without the system.

This is part of what is included.

DENNERLE CO2 FISH TANK AQUARIUM - MASSIVE TANK 72'' X 20" X 18"

DENNERLE DUOMAT 1200 COMFORT CONTROLLER

DENNERLE SUBSTRATE HEATER CABLE

DENNERLE CO2 WATER FUSION SYSTEM

NIGHT CO2 CUT OFF SWITCH

Thanks.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20226 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/28/2006
Subject: Re: How much is too much
So long as you do not let your bacterial colony areas dry out, and the water your place in the tank is not chlorinated, you can change 100% of the water without disrupting the cycle. However, the size of water changes you are doing daily now is more than sufficient to get growth on your fry. There are not many times when 100% water changes are indicated. If you are keeping bettas in bowls, quart jars, and/or other small containers, that would be an instance where 100% water changes would be indicated.

As for the person mentioning 10% water changes, that is the bare minimum weekly water change one should do for a tank that is not being used for breeding or raising fry. 20-25% would be more in line for a normal every day kind of tank, per week. Water changes are done for many purposes. Fish release more than ammonia into the water (which is what the biological cycle is all about). A number of hormones are release, one of which has the effect of stunting growth of fish if it is not removed. (This is particularly of interest to those who are growing fish out.) It is also good for removing solid wastes that are not light enough o be moved and picked up by the filter. To remove other minerals and chemicals that may buildup over time in the water from the fish and the décor in the tank, etc.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 1:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How much is too much

Water change for tanks? I've been doing a 20-50% water change on my
spawn tanks every day lately to power grow my fry. I know in uncycled
tanks it is acceptable to do 100% water changes for this purpose, but
I'm not quite to that stage yet. Still, how much can you change the
water without upsetting the cycle?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20227 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 12/29/2006
Subject: Re: A treatment for fin rot
I have always used Melafix on my kid's goldfish


----- Original Message ----
From: marian81660 <marian816@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 4:07:56 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] A treatment for fin rot

I have a lion head goldfish that appears to have fin rot. He is in a
10 gallon tank with another lion head that I got at the same time.
What is a good treatment for this. I have salt in the tank and all of
the water peramiters are good.




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20228 From: jim Date: 12/29/2006
Subject: Re: Strange things living in my aquarium
---hi teresa,,, i had a similar looking group of slug like critters
come in on some live rock or in the sand i seeded the cycle with,,,
kept an eye on them as they grew,,, at least one was a conch of some
sort,,, lasted about a year till the hitchiker crab grew big enough to
eat it ,,, got to about the size of a nickle,,, regards,,,Jim
--- by the way ,, i'm in Ohio too

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Teresa" <trayers2001@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone
>
> I have these snail-slug looking things in my salt water tank and have
> no idea what they are. I just know they seem to keep multipling
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20229 From: lohanso Date: 12/30/2006
Subject: Hi Everybody
Just found the group. Have a 55 gal "marine" aquarium and have had it
establish for about 3 years. Only one disaster with a Boxfish.

Have a Black Niger, Blue Hamlet, and a Sailfin Tang. All fish have just
about quadrupled in size since i got them and are now about 5" in
length. Will be looking for a larger tank soon.

Can anyone recommend a medium proced protien skimmmer ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20230 From: Chad Plum Date: 12/30/2006
Subject: Re: How much is too much
as for the 10% that I am talking about since there are daily water changes being done for fry 10% a day should be more then enough daily. I would agree if water change is being done only weekly that 25% would be a better % if not more. Like I also said it would also depend on what kind of fry we are speaking of and what size tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20231 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 12/30/2006
Subject: Re: How much is too much
These are betta fry, and it's a 20 gallon tank, I try to change the
water daily for them, at least a 20% change

> as for the 10% that I am talking about since there are daily water
changes being done for fry 10% a day should be more then enough daily.
I would agree if water change is being done only weekly that 25% would
be a better % if not more. Like I also said it would also depend on
what kind of fry we are speaking of and what size tank.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20232 From: lynne_laverty Date: 12/30/2006
Subject: Which protein skimmer?
Hi there

We're looking for recommendations for protein skimmers - We have 300 litre marine tank
which is fairly new, its only been set up for a few months.

Thanks
Lynne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20233 From: Rich Date: 12/31/2006
Subject: HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!!!!!!
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY. READ ABOUT YOU NEXT YEAR.
RICH